Google
This is a digital copy of a book that was preserved for generations on library shelves before it was carefully scanned by Google as part of a project
to make the world's books discoverable online.
It has survived long enough for the copyright to expire and the book to enter the public domain. A public domain book is one that was never subject
to copyright or whose legal copyright term has expired. Whether a book is in the public domain may vary country to country. Public domain books
are our gateways to the past, representing a wealth of history, culture and knowledge that's often difficult to discover.
Marks, notations and other maiginalia present in the original volume will appear in this file - a reminder of this book's long journey from the
publisher to a library and finally to you.
Usage guidelines
Google is proud to partner with libraries to digitize public domain materials and make them widely accessible. Public domain books belong to the
public and we are merely their custodians. Nevertheless, this work is expensive, so in order to keep providing tliis resource, we liave taken steps to
prevent abuse by commercial parties, including placing technical restrictions on automated querying.
We also ask that you:
+ Make non-commercial use of the files We designed Google Book Search for use by individuals, and we request that you use these files for
personal, non-commercial purposes.
+ Refrain fivm automated querying Do not send automated queries of any sort to Google's system: If you are conducting research on machine
translation, optical character recognition or other areas where access to a large amount of text is helpful, please contact us. We encourage the
use of public domain materials for these purposes and may be able to help.
+ Maintain attributionTht GoogXt "watermark" you see on each file is essential for in forming people about this project and helping them find
additional materials through Google Book Search. Please do not remove it.
+ Keep it legal Whatever your use, remember that you are responsible for ensuring that what you are doing is legal. Do not assume that just
because we believe a book is in the public domain for users in the United States, that the work is also in the public domain for users in other
countries. Whether a book is still in copyright varies from country to country, and we can't offer guidance on whether any specific use of
any specific book is allowed. Please do not assume that a book's appearance in Google Book Search means it can be used in any manner
anywhere in the world. Copyright infringement liabili^ can be quite severe.
About Google Book Search
Google's mission is to organize the world's information and to make it universally accessible and useful. Google Book Search helps readers
discover the world's books while helping authors and publishers reach new audiences. You can search through the full text of this book on the web
at|http: //books .google .com/I
••••• . .
•• •••••
••••• .••,
• , •• • «
•Tr.r *••*
•••• •
• • ••
•••• .••
• • ••
••••• •••••
••••• •••••
••••
• ■ • •• • •
•••
k
V?
CTJRIOSITIES
OF
LONDON:
BXHlBITtHO THE ItOST
BABE AND BEMABKABLE OBJECTS OF INTEBEST IN
THE METBOPOLIS;
WITH HBARLT
S^ktfi gears' "^txMtivJi '^tcolUdaam,
By JOHN^MBS, P.&A.
* I'D Me ttaeae Thlngt !— Thcy'n rare and peeelng eorkrae."— Old Plit.
** I walked op to the window in mj duetr blaok eoat, and looking through the glaae, saw
an the world la rellow, bine, anft g^en, fanning at the ring of pleasure."— Bvaava.
la ** the wonderfol extent and Tarlety of London, men of enrloua inquiry mny tee aaoh
Bodea omft aa Tery few eould erer imagine.** • • " The intelleetnal man Is struck with It
as eoBprehendlBg the whole of hnmaa life in all its Tarietji the eontemplation of whlehia
lMzhaiiattbie.**-BoswxLL>B W« efJoknton.
** Zba man that is tired of London is tired of existeaoe.*'— JouTBO V.
A NEW EDITION, COBRECTED AND ENLARGED.
LONDON :
LONGMANS, GREEN, READER, AND DYER.
MDCCCLXVIII.
• • ■
• • •
» • • •
« •
• • •
• • •
• ■
• • •
• _ •
QIFT 07
PROFESSOR C.A. KOFOIO
PREFACE.
IT is not without considerable anxiety that I submit to the public this
enlarged edition of a Work in which are garnered many of the labours
of a long life, for the most part passed amidst the localities and charac-
teristics which it is the aim of this volume to focus and portray. The
cause of the above anxiety lies chiefly in the changeful nature of the
BubjecC; for at no period in the existence of the Metropolis have so
many changes been wrought in its << scarred face," and its modern aspect,
as in the Twelve Years that have elapsed since the publication of the first
edition of this Work.
The *' Curiosities of London" originally appeared in the Spring of 1855,
in a small octavo volume of 800 pages, when it was received by the Critical
Press with almost unanimous approval ; or, in some respects, an inclina-
tion to take the word for the deed, and in others to kindly regard the
difficulties of the labour. In either case I am bound to be grateful.
The edition, over 3000 copies, was sold within a comparatively short
period, considering the character of the work, then regarded as almost ex-
clusively antiquarian ; although the above reception induces the belief that
** the Present has its Curiomtiesas well as the Past." The book remained
for several years entirely out of print, and second-hand could only be
rarely obtained by advertisement. I then resolved upon its reviinon, and
its reproduction, enlarged and more perfect in its detidls than hitherto ;
and the present volume of library size, 880 pages, is the result ; im •>
proredy it is hoped, in the value of its contents, as well as increased in bulk.
wei?043
W PBEFACB.
The plan and arrangement of this edition are essentiallj the same as
those of its predecessor. The type is somewhat enlarged, and more
readable ; in the quotations and descriptive details, the small but clear
letter has been adhered to, so as to comprise an additional amount
of exact and authorized illustrative information. Meanwhile, the extent
of the more important articles has been considerably augmented, though
with the requisite attention to conciseness and facility of reference.
Several new articles have been added ; others have been re- written and
enlarged. Correctness has been the cardinal point throughout the Work ;
although the many thousand facts, names, and dates contained in this large
volume will, it is hoped, be taken into account.
The Preface to the First Edition has been reprinted for the sake of its
explanation of the design, which I have here amplified, improved, and
rendered more trustworthy as well as entertaining, by the best means
and opportunities at my disposal, venerating the injunction of the old
poet—
, "Up into tbe watch-tower get,
And see all things de8|K>iled of fallacies.**
The Annals of a great City are ofttimes to be traced in the history of
its Public Edifices. In the ancient and modern Cathedral, the venerable
Minster, and the picturesque Churches of the Metropolis, we not only
read the history of its Architecture, but in their " solemn paths of Fame "
we trace countless records of our country^s greatness.
The Birthplaces and Abodes of eminent Londoners are so many hal-
lowed sites to those who love to cherish the memories of great men. The
palace-prison of " the Tower " bears upon its very walls an index to
most stirring events in our history.
The Civic H alls of London are stored with memorials of past ages
illustrating curious glimpses of manners and artistic skill in their Pictures,
Plate, and Painted Glass.
To trace the growth of great centres of population, from the village in
the fields to a city of palaces, part of the Great Town itself, leads us
through many vivid contrasts of life and manners : — from the times when
Southwark was a Roman suburb; Lambeth and Chelsea were Saxon
villages ; Westminster was a " Thorny Island ;" St. Marylebone, a hamlet
on the brook ; St. Pancras, in the fields ; and Finsbury, a swampy moor :
all lying around the focus of Roman civilization, the City itself.
Certain localities bear names which '< make us seek in our walks the
N
PBEFAOE.
very footmarks of the Roman soldier;** whilst one of our most thronged
thoroQghfares can be identified as a British trackway and Roman street.
How often upon snch sites are unearthed relics of the civilization and
luzQiy of our conquerors and colonists.
The records of the Amusements of the People, and their Sights and
Shows, in all ages, are richly stored with Curiosities : from the period
when Smithfield was an Anglo-Norman race-course, to the waning of the
last of the City pageants, Lord Mayor's Show. Old Poets and Dramatists,
Trayellers and. Diarists, have left us pictures-in-little of the sports and
pastimes, the follies and nine-day- wonders, of the ^'Londiners.'* Fitz-
stephen and HCentzner, Stow and Strype, Howell and Aubrey, Evelyn
and Pepy 8, Ned Ward and Tom Brown, Gay and Walpole, have bequeathed
U3 many ^' tri^vial fond records** of this anecdotic class. Again, how many
amusing eccentricities are recorded in the lives of the Alchemists, Astro-
logers, and A^ntiquaries of Old London 1
Such are the leading Arch»ological features which, interwoven with
the Modem History and Present Condition of the Metropolis, form the
staple of the present volume. In the intermediate changes have dis-
appeared many old London landmarks, which it has been my special
object to describe :
'' PnuBing what is losty
Makes the remembranoe dear."
JOHN TIMBS.
HoRXSET-ROAD^
Dec, 1867.
PREFACE
TO
THE FIRST EDITION.
LrrTLE need be said to bespeak the interest of readers in tlie staple of
the present work — ^the Notable Things in the History of London
through its Nineteen Centuries of accredited antiquity. StUl, I am anxious
to offer a few words upon the origin and growth of this volume ; and the
means by which I have striven to render it as complete as the extent and
ever-varying nature of the subject will allow.
Twenty-seven years since (in J. 82 8), I wrote in the parlour of the
house No. 3 Charing Cross (then a publisher's), the title and plan of a
volume to be called " Curiosities of Lokdon ;" and the work here sub-
mitted to the public is the realization of that design. I then proposed to
note the most memorable points in the annals of the Metropolis, and to
describe its most remarkable objects of interest, from the earliest period
to my own time, — for the Present has its Curiosities as well as the
Past. Since the commencement of this design in 1828, — precisely mid-
way in my lifetime, — I have scarcely for a day or hour lost sight of the
subject ; but, through a long course of literary activity, have endeavoured
to profit by every fair opportunity to increase my stock of materials ; and
by constant comparison, '' not to take for granted, but to weigh and con-
sider,'' in turning such materials to account. In this labour I have been
greatly aided by the communications of obliging friends, as well as by my
own recollection of nearly Fifty Years' Changes in the aspects of " enlarged
and still increasing London."
<< Thinking how different a place London is to different people," I have,
in this volume, studied many tastes ; but its leading characteristics will
PREFACE TO THE FIRST EDITION. vii
be foxmd to consist in what Addison's Freeholder calls " the Curiosities of
this great Town." Their bibliographical illustration, by quotations from
Old Poets and Dramatists, Travellers and Diarists, presents a sort of
literar J chequer-work of an entertaining and anecdotic character ; and
these historic glimpses are brought into vivid contrast with the Social
Statistics and other Great Facts^of the London of to-day.
The plan of the book is in the main alphabetical Districts and locali-
ties are, however, topographically described ; the arrangement of streets
hehkg generally in a sub-alphabet The Birthplaces, Abodes, and Burial-
places of Eminent Persons — so many sites of charmed ground — are
8pe<:iaUy noted, as are existing Antiquities, Collections of Rare Art and
T'irta, Public Buildings, Royal and Noble Residences, Great Institutions* .
Pul>lic Aihusements and Exhibitions, and Industrial Establishments ; so
to chronicle the renown of Modem as well as Ancient London. The
articles describing the Churches, Exchanges, Halls, Libraries and Museums,
Palaces and Parks, Parliament-Houses, Roman Remains, and the Tower
of Liondon, are, from their importance, most copious in their details.
Tlie utmost pains has been taken to verify dates, names, and circum-
Btanoes ; and it is trusted that no errors may be found in addition to those
noted at the close of the volume, with the changes in the Metropolis
during the progress of the printing of the work. The reader, it is hoped,
will regard these inaccuracies with indulgence, when the immense number
<yf facts sought to be recorded in this volume is considered. Lastly, it has
\>een my aim to render the Curiosities useful as well as entertaining ;
•ad with that view are introduced several matters of practical informa-
tion for Londoners as well as visitors.
JOHN TIMBS.
8Sf Sloahb-street, Chelsea,
Jan, 16, 1856.
ADDITIONS, CHANGES, COMJiJSCTIONS, ^c.
During the printing of the present Work (nearly 900 pages), aeverftl changes
Lave been made in the Metropolis — its material aspect, as well as in circumstHnces
affecting its government, &c.; among which are the following, entitled to special
note : —
Pa^fe 86. — BuirHTLL-iriELDS BVBi^L-GBOina). By Act of Parliament, the
management of this property has been transferred by the Ecclesiastical Commiasioners
to the Corporation of London, who are to convert the ground into a public garden ;
• the Commissioners reserving the right to resume possessioA of the estate should thdr
conditions be ineffectually performed.
Page 87. — Bartholameip'a (S.) Sotpitat. The question as to the election of the
Presideuta of the four great City Hospitals, stated at p. 87 to be then tub jvdice,
was, in November, 1866, decided by the Court of Queen's Bench in favour of the
Hospitals, the Governors of which have free choice in the election of their Presidents
(see p. 436). His Royal Highness the Prince of Wales has since been elected Prendent
of S. Bartholomew's.
Page 41.— Pantheon Bazaar was closed in 1867, and the buil^ng converted into a
wine dep6t. (See p. 640.)
Page 49. — Bermondeey Priory. See Annalee Monastici, vol. iii., edited by H. R«
Luard, 1866.
Page 74. — ^Top line, for JoUiffe Banks, read JoUiffe and Banks.
P^'ofi 80. — The Speaker's State Coach is now kept at the Speaker's stables,
Millbank.
i age b5.— Charterhouse site and buildings are to be transferred to Merchant
Tnylors j and Cliarterhouse to be removed into the country.
Page 92.— The old print of the "Bunn House at Chelsey," measures 62 by 21
inches.
Page 144. — Church of S. Alhan the Martyr : the choir entirely /or the parishioners.
Page 158. — S. Benei^s Church, Gracechurch-street, has been taken down.
Page 288. — For Peckbum read Piekhurii.
Page 284. — Nelsok CoLiricir. The bronze lions, by Landseer, on the pedestal, are
described at p. 759.
Page 287. — Common Council. For " the Court held," read the Court hold.
Page 302. — For " Britton and Bailey," read Britton and Brayleg.
Page 812. — DocTOBs' Commons. The buildings were taken dov^-n in 1867.
Page 850.— Fleet-btbeet. No. 50, (not 18,) formerly the Amiodble life Am'
surance Office, is now the Office of the Nortcich Union Society.
Page 480. — Middle Bow has been taken down.
Page 469. — Ghat's Inn. For "Comer-court," read Coney 'COurt.
Page 541< — Mansion House. At the close of the International Exhibition of
1851, the Corporation of London, with a view of encouraging the growth of Art in
this country, voted the sum of 10,0002. to be expended in Statuary for the Egyptian
Hull; and the Statues now in the Hall were ordered.
Page 608. — Strand Mttbio Hall. For *' Old," read New Exeter 'Change.
Pa^e lie.-^Spitatflelds. For " Lottesworth," read Loleiworth,
CURIOSITIES OF LONDON.
• • •
• ■
« •
ASEBIES of streets in the rear of the houses on the south side of the Strand,
reaching east and west from Adam-street to Buckingham-street, and fiicing the
Thames on the south — a grand commencement of the architectural emhankment of the
^ rirer, in 1768. It is named Adelphi {abek<f>^s, hrother) from its architects, the four
brothers Adam, who built vast arches over the court-yard of old Durham House, and
upon these erected, level with the Strand, ^<2affi-street, leading to John, Sobert,
James, and WUliam-t^reeta; the noble line of houses fronting the Thames being the
Adelphi-terraoe. The view from this spot is almost unrivalled in the metropolis for
variety and architectural beauty : from Waterloo Bridge on the east, with the majestic
dome and picturesque campanili of St. Paul's, to Westminster Bridge on the west,
abore which rise the towers of Lambeth Palace and Westminster Abbey ; the massive
entrance and lofty dock-tower, and pinnacled and bristling roofs of the Houses of Par-
liament : beneath lies the river, spanned with manifold bridges. The prospect is, how*
r, partially ctiafigured with huge and shapeless railway buildings.
In psaaing throogh Parliament the Bill for the Embankment of part of the Thames adjoining
Dnriiam-yard, a violent conteat aroae between the City and tbe Conrt. The Lord Mayor, as Con-
aervator of the riTer, oonaidering Oie rigbta of tbe citizenB exposed to encroachment^ tbey were heard
by eocmiel in FiiiittDaent. They produced a grant of Henry Vll. of all tbe soil and bed of the river,
firam Stainfla Bridge to a place hi Kent^ near the Medway ; and showed a lease granted bv them, sixty-
six yean before this period, of a nook of tbe river at VanxbaU, under which they stilT continued to
receive rent. On the other side a charter of Charles II. to the City was produced, in which he reserved
the bed of tbe river ; and it was contended that the City, by receiving the latter grant, abandoned the
fpnner; that the charter of Henry VU. extended only to the soil of tbe river within tbe City and
taborbc. The lease of Yaaxhall was said to be a mere enoroachment, and the right of the Citjr was
utterly denied. These arguments prevailed : the Bill passed both Houses: and the magnificent pile of
buildiaga called tbe Adelphi was erected on the site. The brothers Adam were chosen the Court
arcfaiteets, through the iufiuence of tbe Earl of Bute^ and did not escape the satire of tbe day :— -
* Four Sootehmen, by the name of Adam,
Who keep their ooacbes and their madam,'*
Quoth John, in sulky mood, to Thomas,
** Have stole the very river lyom us."
FomtdUng HotpUal/^ WU, vol. iv.
In the centre house of the Terrace, No. 4f, David Qarrick lived from 1772 tiU his
death, Jan. 20, 1779 : the ceiling of the front drawing-room was painted by Antonio
Zoochi, A.B.A. ; the white marble chimney-piece cost 8002. Garrick died in the back
drawing-room ; and here his remains lay in state, previous to their interment in West-
minster Abbey, Feb. 1. Johnson says : " His death eclipsed the gaiety of nations ;"
bat Walpole, " Qarrick is dead ; not a public loss ; for he had quitted the stage."
There were not at Lord Chatham's funeral half the noble coaches that attended
Oarrick's ; Borke was one of the mourners, and came expressly from Portsmouth to
follow the g^reat actor^s remains ; and Lord Ossory was one of the pall-bearers. Walpole
«;pteB to &e Coontess of Ossory :—
** Yes, madam, I do think the pomp of Qarrick's ftmeral perfectly ridiculous. It is confounding tbe
innwDse gpmoe between pleasing talents and national services. What distinctions remain for a patriot
Ixro^ when tbe moat solemn have been showered on a player ? . . . Shakspere, who wrote when
fioiiewh oocinselled and Nottingham Ibaght, was not rewarded and honoured like Garrick, who oiUy
•euir^LHUr, Feb, 1, 1779.
••• • • ••••••
• •• • ••••4«*
•^, •• ••*•• •
• • •• •••••
;:2V: :. : •: : : :/. jofiBiosiTiES of London.
Garrick's widow also died in the front drawing-room of the same house, in 1822, at
the Adelphi-terrace. The floor is now the chambers of the Koyal Literary Fund
Society. In another of the Terrace houses lived Sir Edward Banks, one of the builders of
Waterloo, Southwark, London, and Staines bridges, over the Thames. He was one of
the earliest railway " names," and worked on the Merstham Railway, in Surrey,
about the year 1801 : by natural abilities and the strictest integ^ty, he raised himself
to wealth and station : he died July 5, 1835.
At the north-east comer of Adam-street, Xo. 73, Strand, Becket, the bookseller,
kept shop, — the rendezvous of Garrick, who never went to taverns, seldom to cofTee-
houses. At No. 1, Adam-street, lived Dr. Yicc^mus Knox, one of "the British
Essayists ." In the first floor of the same house resided, for twenty years, in almost
total sedudon, George Blamire, barrister-at-law, of very eccentric habits, but sound
mind. No person was allowed to enter his chamber, his meals and all communications
being left by his housekeeper at the door of his ante-room. He was found dead in an
arm-chair, in which he had been accustomed to sleep for twenty years. He died of
exhaustion, from low fever and neglect ; at which time his rooms were filled with fur-
niture, books, plate, paintings, and other valuable property.
At Osborne's Hotel, John-street, in 1824, sojoomed Eamehameha II., King of tlio
Sandwich Islands, and his sister the Queen, with their suites : at this time was written
the song of *' The King of the Cannibal Islands." The Queen died here of measles,
July 8 ; and the King died of the same disease at the Caledonian Hotel on the 14th. *
Their - remuns lay in native pomp at Osborne's, and were then deposited in the vaults
of St. Martin's Church, prior to their being conveyed in the Blonde frigate to the
Sandwich Islands for interment. The poor King and Queen were wantonly charged
with gluttony and drunkenness while here ; but they lived chiefly on fish, poultry, and
fruit, and their fevourite drink was some cider presented to them by Mr. Canning.
In John-street also, on the north side, is the house built for the Sodety of Arts by
the Adams, and extending over part of the site of the New Exchange, Strand. In
the second-floor chambers at No. 2, James-street, lived, for nearly thirty years, Mr.
Thomas Hill, the "Hull" of Theodore Hook's novel of GilheH Ghimey. Hill died
here December 20, 1841, in his eighty-flrst year, and left a large collection of curio-
sities, including a cup and a small vase formed from the mulberry-tree planted by
Shakspeare at Stratford -upon- A^on. Neither of these, however, is the Sbakspeai'o
Cup presented to Garrick by the Mayor and Corporation of Stratford at the time of
the Jubilee. This celebrated relic was bought on May 5, 1825, for 121 guineas, by
Mr. J. Johnson; and by him sold, July 4, 1846, for 401. St. 6d., to Mr. Isaacs, of
Upper Gower-street.
The Adelphi vaults, in part occupied as wine-cellars and coal-wharfs, in their grim
vastness, remind one of the Etruscan Cloaca of old Rome. Beneath the " dry arches,"
the most abandoned characters have often passed the night, nestling upon foul straw ;
and many a street-thief escaped from his pursuers in these dismal haunts, before the
introduction of gas-light and a vigilant police.
AMMIRALTT OFFICE, TEE,
FORMS the left flank of the detachment of Government Offices on the north side of
Whitehall. It occupies the site of Wallingford House, from the roof of Which
Archbishop Usher saw King Charles I. led out to execution in the front of Whitehall
Palace, and swooned at the sad scene.
Wallingford House was sold to the Crown in 1680, and thither the business of the
Admiralty was removed from Crutched Friars, and Duke-street^ Westminster. The
street fr^mt was rebuilt by Thomas Ripley, about 1726.
" See under Bipley rise a new Whitehall/*
The Duneiad, B. ilL
The Admiralty is a most ugly ediflce. To conceal its ugliness, the court-yard was
fronted with a stone screen, by Adam, in the reign of George III. This screen is a
very characteristic composition; its sculptured hippocampi, and prows of ancient
vessels, combining with an anchor in the pediment of the portico of Uie main buildiug,
ALGEEMI8T8.
to denote the purposes of the office — ^the administration of the affidrs of the Boyal Navy,
In one of the large rooms the body of Lord Nelson lay in state, January 8, 1806; and
next day took place the solemn ftineral procession, with a military force of nearly 8000
men, from this spot to St. I^nl's Cathedral.
Tlie offiee of Lord High Admiral was, in 1827, revived, after the sleep of a century,
and was conferred by patent (similar to that of Prince George of Denmark), upon the
Duke of Claroice, who resided at the Admiralty. His Boyal Highness was thought by
the Duke of Wellington, then Premier, to have mixed up with the business of the office
too much jaunting and cruinng about, presenting of colours, and shows, on sea and
lanc^ " more expen&ve and foolish than in any way serviceable." On a long account
foe tniTelUng expenses being sent in to the Treasury by the Duke of Clarence^ the
Premier endorsed the paper, *' No travelling expenses allowed to the Lord High Admiral,''
and dismissed it; when His Boyal Highness retired; the salary was 5000^. a year.
On the roof of the Admiralty Office, many years since, was placed a Semaphore (the
mventiaii of Sir Home Popham) ; the arms of which, extending laterally at right
angles, commumcated orders and intelligence to and from the sea-ports ; previous to
which was used the shuttle telegraph, invented by B. L. Edgeworth. The Semaphore
hai^ however, been superseded by the Electric Telegraph, of which wires are laid from
the office in Whitehall to the Dockyard at Portsmouth, &c.
ALCEJEMISTS.
SOME axty years since, there died in his chamber, in Barnard's Inn, Holbom, Peter
Woulfe, the eminent chemist^ a Fellow of the Boyal Society. According to Mr.
^■nde, Woulfe was " the last true believer in alchemy." He was a tall, thin man ;'
and his last moments were remarkable. In a long journey by coach, he took cold ;
inflammation of the lungs followed, but he strenuously resisted all medical advice. By
his desire, his laundress shut up his chamber, and left him. She returned at midnight
when Woulfe was still alive ; next morning, however, she Ibund him dead ; his coun-
tenance was calm and serene, and apparently he had not moved from the position in
which she had last seen him. These particulars of Woulfe's end were received by the
writer ftt>m the Treasurer of Barnard's Inn, who was one of the executors of Woulfe's
last will and testament. Little is known of Woulfe's life. Sir Humphry Davy tells
us that he used to affix written prayers, and inscriptions of recommendations of his
processes to Providence. His chambers were so filled with furnaces and apparatus,
that it was difficult to reach the fireside. Dr. Babing^n told Mr. Brande that he once
pot down his hat, and could never find it again, such was the confusion of boxes, pack*
agesi, and parcels, that lay about the room. His break&st-hour was four in the
morning : a few of his friends were occasionally invited, and giuned entrance by a
secret signal, knocking a certain number of times at the inner-door of the chamber.
He had long vainly searched for the Elixir, and attributed his repeated failure to the
want of due preparation by pious and charitable acts. Whenever he wished to break
an acquaintance, or felt himself offi*nded, he resented the supposed injuries by sending a
present to the offender, and never seeing him afterwards. These presents sometimes
consisted of an expensive chemical product, or preparation. He had an heroic remedy
for illnessi, which was a journey to Edinburgh and back by the mail-coach ; and a cold
taken on one of these expeditions terminated in inflammation of the lungs^ of which he
died.^^ Century of Anecdote, voL iL, pp. 315, 316.
' Aboat 1801, an adept lived, or rather ftarved, in the metropolis. In the person of an Editor of an
efcnhig Journal, who expected to oompoand the alkahest if he coiUd only keep his materials digested
in a lamp-f omace for the space of seven years. The lamp burnt br^htlv during six years, eleven months,
and some odd days bedoes, and then, imlackilT, it went oat. Why it went oat the aaept never coald
goesi ; bot he was certun that if the flame could only have bamt to the end of the septenary cyde his
experiment moat have socceeded.'*— Pap«r on AMiroCogif and Alehtmjf, by Sir WaUtr SooUf QuarUrtjf
Mepiem,lB£l.
In Catherine-street, Strand, lived for many years, one John Denley, a bookseller,
who amassed here a notable collection of the works of alchemist, cabaUst, and astro-
loger. He is the individual so characteristically portrayed by Sir Edward Lytton
Bulwer. io the introduction to lus Zanoni*
as
4 CURIOSITIES OF LOKDOK
'Within the last fifteen years, there has been printed in England, a volume of oona-
derable extent, entitled, A Sv^gettive Inquiry into the Semutic Mystery : London,
T. Saunders, 1850. This work, which a Correspondent of Notes and Queries describes
as " a learned and valuable book," is by a lady (anonymous), and has been suppressed
by the authort By this circumstance we are reminded of a concealment of alchemical
practices and opinions, some thirty years nnce, when it came to our knowledge that a
man of wealth and position in the metropoUs, an adept of Alchemy, was held in
terrorem by an unprindpled person, who extorted from him considerable sums of money
mider a threat of exposure, which would have affected his mercantile credit.
ALMACK'8
ASSEMBLT-HOOMS, on the south side of King-street, St. James's, w«re built by
Bobert Hylne, architect, for Almack, a Scotchman, and were opened Feb. 12^
1765, with an Assembly, at which the Duke of Cumberland, the hero of Culloden, was
present. Gilly Williams writes to George Selwyn : —
" There is now opened at Almsck's, in three very eleofsnt new-bnilt roomi, aten-ipruinea Bubscripfion,
for which yoa have a ball and tapper ODce a week, for twelve weeks. You mar imanne by the sam
the company is chosen; though, refined as it is, it will be scarce able to pat old Soho (Mrs. Comelys')
oat of coantenance. The men's tickets are not transferable, so, if the laoies do not like as, ^ey havo
The large ball-room is about one hundred feet in length, by forty feet in width ; it
is chastely decorated with gilt columns and pilasters, classic medallions, mirrors, &c.,
and is lit with gas, in cut-glass lustres. The largest number of persons ever present
in this room at one ball was 1700.
Tlie rooms are let for public meetings, dramatic readings, lectures, concerts,
balls, and dinners. Here Mrs. Billing^n, Mr. Braham, and Signor Naldi, gave
concerts, from 1808 to 1810, in rivalry with Madame Catalan!, at Hanover-square
Booms; and here Mr. Charles Kemble gave, in 1844^ his Readings from Shakespeare.
Almack's Booms are often called " Willis's," from the name of their present pro-
prietor. Many public dinners now take place here.
Almack's has declined of late years ; " a dear proof that the palmy days of exdusive-
ness are gone by in England ; and though it is obviously impossible to prevent any
given number of persons from congregating and re-establishing an oligarchy, we are
quite sure that the attempt would be ineffectual, and that the sense of their importance
would extend little beyond the set." — Quarterly Beview, 1840.
Many years ago was published Almack^s, a novel, in which the leaders of fashion were
sketched with much freedom : they were identified in A Key to Almack*Sf by Ben-
jamin DIsraelL
ALDSEMAN.
THE oldest office in the Corporation of* London, and derived from the title of the
superior Saxon noble. The more aged were so called ; for aide in Saxon means
*' old," and alder is our word " older : " hence, as the judgment is most vigorous in
persons of more mature years, the dignitary who, among the Bomans, was known as
'* Consul " or " Senator" among us is called " Alderman." And yet, in the case of
aldermen, maturity of mind is to be considered* rather than of body, and gravity of
manners in preference to length of years : hence it is that in the ancient laws of King
Cnut, and other kings in' Saxon times, the person was styled "Alderman" who is now
called " Judge " and " Justidar," as set forth in the Liber Ousiumarum, These alder-
men, too, in respect of name as well as dignity, were anciently called ** Barones,"
and were buried with baronial honours ; a person appearing in the church upon a
caparisoned horse in the armour of the deceased, with his banner in his hand, and carry-
ing upon him his shidd, helmet, and the rest of his arms.* This gorgeous ceremonial
was gradually discontinued; but the alderman still retained great state, and enjoyed
spedal immunities. He could not be placed on inquests; he was exempt from fees on
the eurolment of deeds or charters relating to himself; and any person who assaulted
• See Liber Albiui the White Book, B. 1, Pt. 1, traoBlated by Riley, 1861.
ALBEBMAK
or tUmdered him was liable to be imprisoned, to be put in the pillory, or to have his
hand strock o£ The aldermen were privileged to be arrayed, on particular occasions,
in certain grand suits, lined with silk. But if a mayor or alderman gave away, or in
any manner parted with, his robe within his year of office, he was mulcted in a forfei-
ture of one hundred shillings for the benefit of the community, without remission; or
if he wore his doak single, or not trimmed with fur, he was subjected to a penalty.
Hadox says : '* Alderman was a name for a chief governor of a secular guild, and in
time it became also a name for a chief officer in a guildated city or town ;" and he
qiMitesy in illustration, the circumstance of the Prior of Holy Trinity, Aldgate, becom-
ing an Alderman of London, in consequence of the grant to that priory of the " English
Enightengild." According to Norton's Commentariea on London, " there is no trace
when the name of Alderman was first applied to the presidents of the London wards or
gmlds: the probability is it was introduced after the Conquest; and there is reasou
to beUevetbat the appellation was not used in that sense until the time of Henry II.,"
when Aldermen are fiirst mentioned as presiding over gmlds, some of which were terri-
torial and others mercantile. Each has his title from his ward, as "Alderman of
Cheap,^ *' Alderman of Queenhithe," &c. ; but, anciently, the Ward was styled after
the name of its alderman ; as Tower Ward was called " the Ward of William de
Hadestok." The present ward of Farringdon was bought by William Faryngdon in
1279, and remained in his family upwards of eighty years ; it was held by the tenure
of presenting at Easter a gillyflower, then of great rarity.
Among the early Aldermen we find, in the reign of Henry III., Arnald Fitz-
Thedmar, who compiled a Chronicle of the Mayors and Sherifis of London, from 1188
to 1274, in the Liber de Antiquis Legibus, translated in 1846 and 1863. Somewhat
later, we find William de Leyre, Alderman of the Ward of Castle Baynard : he had
once acted as gaoler to the heroic William Wallace ; for it was in his house, situate in
the parish of All Saints, Fenchurdi-street, that the patriot was confined (22nd August,
1305), the day and night before his barbarous execution at the Elms in Smithfield.
Aldermen have, at various times, suffered by the caprice of sovereigns. In 1545,
when Henry VIII. demanded a "benevolence" from his subjects, to defray the charges
of his war with France and Scotland, Richard Read, an Alderman of London, refused
to pay the sum required firom him. For this ofience, Henry compelled the recusant
Alderman to serve as a foot-soldier with the army in Scotland, where he was made
prisoner; and after enduring gpreat hardships, he purchased his discharge by a con-
siderable ransom. (See Lord SerherVt Life of Henry VIIL)
Alderman Barber, the first printer Lord Mayor (1733), was the friend of Boling-
broke. Swift, and Pope ; and in 1721 erected a tablet to Samuel Butler, in West-
minster Abbey, with an eulogistic Latin inscription, notwithstanding Butler's satiric
"Character of an Alderman :" —
* He does no pablic busineM withoat eating and drinking; and when he comes to be a lord-mayor,
he does not keep a great house, bat a very great hoase-warming for a whole year ; for though he invites
all the Cbmpanies in the City, he does not treat them, bat they dab to entertain him and pay the
icckouing before ^e meal. His fur gown makes him look a great deal bigger than he is, nke the
fieatbert of an owl : and when he pnlls it ofll he looks as if he were fUien away, or like a rabbit, had his
akin polled off."
The notorious Alderman Wilkes was a man of talent, though profligate and unprin-
cipled. Alderman BoydeU was a generous and discriminating promoter of the fine
arts, and was honoured with a public funeral. Alderman Birch was an accomplished
scholar, and wrote dramatic pieces. Alderman Salomons, who joined the Court in 1847,
was the first Jew admitted to that privilege. The Aldermen form the bench of magis-
trates for the City t each, on his election by Wardmote, receives a present of law-
books; and in the absence of any prisoners for examination at the Police Court in which
the Alderman sits, he receives a pair of white kid gloves. The Aldermen receive no
ailary, but exercise many influential privileges ; their duties are onerous. Probably the
history of the Court presents a greater number of instances of self-advancement than
any other records of personal history. Pensions or allowances are paid annually by
the Coort to the widows or descendants of their less fortunate brethren.
Each of the twenty-six City Wards elects one Alderman for life, or " during g^ood
befaavioar." The fine for the r^ection of tlie office is 600Z. ; but it is generally sought
6 CURIOSITIES OF LONDON.
as a stepping-stone to the Mayoralty, each Alderman being in rotd Lord Mayor, he
having previonsly senred as Sheriff of London and Middlesex. The Aldermen form a
conrt, the Lord Mayor presiding; and sit in a superb apartment of the Goildhall,.
which has a rich stucco ceiling, painted mostly by Sir James Thomhill ; in the cornice^
are carved and emblazoned the arms of all the Mayors since 1780; each Alderman's
chair bears his name and arms : he wears a scarlet cloth gown, hooded and furred ;
and a gold chain, if he hath served as Mayor. Upon state visits of sovereigns to the
City, the several Aldermen ride in procession on horseback. At the opening of the
New Royal Exchange, October 28, 1844^ the Aldermen rode thus, wearing their scarlet
gowns and chains, and cocked hats, carrying wands, and preceding the Queen's proces-
sion fit)m Temple Bar to the Exchange.
ALMOiatT, TKE,
OB Eleemosynary, corruptly, in Stew's time, and later, the Ambry, was named finom
its being the place where the alms collected in the Abbey Church at Westminster
were distributed te poor persons. It was situated at the east end of the Sanctuary, and
was divided inte two parts : the Great Almonry, consisting of two oblong portions,
parallel te the two Tothill streets, and connected by a narrow lane (the entrance being-
from Dean's-yard) ; and the Little Almonry, running southward, at the eastern end of
the other Almonry.
In the Almonry the first printing-press ever known in England was set up by
Wilham Caxten : according to Stew, in an old chapel near the entrance of the Abbey ;
but a very curious placard, in Cazton's largest type, and now preserved in the library
of Brasenose College, Oxford, shows that he printed in the Almonry ; for in this pla-
card he invites custemers te " come te Westmonester in te the Almonestrye at the Reed
Pale," the name by which was known a house wherein Caxten is said te have lived.
It stood on the north side of the Almonry, with its back against that of a house on
the south side of Tothill-stroet. Bagford describes this house as of brick, with the
sign of the King^s Head : it is said te have partiy fallen down in November, 1845,
before the removal of the remainder of the other dwellings in the Almonry, te form a
new line (Victeria*street) from Broad Sanctuary te Hmlico, when wooden types were said
to have been found here. A beam of wood was saved from the materials of the house,
and from it have been made a chess-board and two sets of chessmen, as appropriate
memorials of Caxten's first labour in England, namely. The Oame and Playe of the
Chesse, 1474, folio, the first book printed in England.
According te a view of Cnxton's house, nicely engraved by Q. Cooke, in 1827, it was
three-storied, and had an outer gallery, or balcony, te the upper floor, with a window
in its bold gable : its precise site was immediately adjoining the spot now occupied by
the prindpal entrance te the Westminster Palace Hotel, in digging for the foundation
of which was found, at twelve feet from the surface, a stetuette of the Virgin and
Child, eleven inches high, carved in sandstene, and bearing traces of rich gilding.
In the Littie Almonry lived James Harringten, author of Oceana, in a '* faire house,"
which, according te Aubrey, ** in the upper stery, had a pretty gallery, which looked
inte the yard (cover .... court), where he commonly dined and meditated, and took
his tebacco." This " gallery" corresponds with that in Caxten's house, which we well
remember : its identity has been questioned ; and in one of the appendices te Mr.
Gilbert Scotf s Qleaningt from Westminster Ahhey, Mr. Burges suggests, not altogether
without probability, that it was in the spacious triforium of Westminster Abbey that
Caxton first set up his printing-press. Walcott states his " place of trade near a little
chapel of St. Catherine. It is not, however, wholly improbable that at first he erected
his press near one of the little chapels attached to the aisles of the Abbey, or in the
ancient Scripterinm."
"There is an old brick hoxiso in Tothill-street, opposite Dortmonth-stroet, which was probably at
one time connected with the Almonry. It has upon ite fh>nt, stmken in the brickwork, the letters £.
(Eleemoqmaria ?) T. A. (perhaps the initials of tne almoner's name), with, however, a late date, 1571.
A heart, which Is above the inscription, was the symbol nsed in the old Clog Almanacks for the Annan*
dation, the Pariflcation, and all other Feast-days of Our laA^."^Walcate» Wettmimter, 1810.
ALMONRY— ALMSHOUSES.
ALMOJfRT, ROYAL.
THIS Office, in Middle Scotland-yard, Whitehall, is maintained expressly for the
distrilmtion of the Boyal Alms, or Bounty, to the poor. The duties of the
Hereditary Grand Almoner, first instituted in the reign of Richard I., are confined to
the ^txibution of alms at a Coronation. The office of the High Almoner is of a more
general description. In the reign of Edward I. his office was to collect the fragments
from the royal table, and distribute them daily to the poor ; to visit the tick, poor
widows, prisoners^ and other persons in distress; to remind the King about the be-
stowal of his alms, espedally on Saints' days; and to see that the cast-oiF robes were
sold, to increase the King^s charity.
GhamberUrne deacribes the Great Almoner's oflSce, in 1765, to hsTe Inelnded the digpoeal of the
Kfaig's alnw, n>r which use he received monqrs, besides all deodands and bona felonum de m. He had
the privilm to pve the King's dish to whatsoerer poor men he pleased ; that is, the first dish at dinner,
set upon the King^s tables or instead, 4d.per diem. Next, he oistrlbnted every morning, at the court-
gate, money, breM, and beer, each poor recipient ilrst repeating the Creed and the Lora's Prayer, in
the preecpca of one of the King's chaplains, the Sub-Almoner; who had also to scatter newly-coined
twopenoea, in the towns and places visited by the King, to a certain sum by the year. BesidM these^
there were many poor pensioners to the King and Queen below stairs.
For more than a century the office of Lord High Almoner was held by the Arch-
bishops of York ; but on the death of Archbishop Haroourt, in November, 1847, the
cffice was conferred upon Dr. Samuel Wilberforce* Lord Bishop of Oxford.
The distribntion of Alms on the Thursday before Easter, or Maundy Thwrtday, takee
place in Whitehall Chapel ; that at Easter, Whitsuntide, and Christmas, at the Office
in Middle Scotland-yard.
Thna, the Bpyal Maundy was distributed on Maundy Thursday, 1866, in Whitehall Chapel, with
the castomarr Sarmalities, to 47 aged men and 47 aged women, the number of each aex corresponding
with the age of her M^esty.
The procession is formed in the following orders— Boys of the Chapel BoyaL Gentlemen of the
Chspel Boya], Priests of the Chapel Boyal, Sergeant-Major of the Yeomen of the Guard, the Sergeant
of the Yeatey, the Lord High Ahnoner, tneeub-Almoner, and the Sub-Dean, six children of the National
Schools, the Yeoman of the Almoniy and his assistants, the Yeomen of the Guard, one carrying the
Bofjal Ahna on a gold salver, of tlie reign of King William and Queen Mary.
A special servuse Is then read, and after the first Anthem, \l. 16«. is distributed to each woman, and
to each man shoes and stockings. After the second Anthem woollen and linen clothes are distributed.
After the third Anthem, purses. And after the fourth Anthem, two prayers composed for the occasioii
are read, and the ymjes tot the Queen, when the sermon Is endied.
Eadi red inirse contained the usual gold sovereign, and a further sum of 1{. 10». as a commutation in
liea of provisions formerly issued from tne Lord Steward's department of the Queen's Household. Each
white parse eontafaied the Maundy coin, consisting of silver fourpenny, threepenny, twopenny, and
penny pi«ees, amounting to 47, the age ot Her M^esty.
On Friday and Saturday in the previous week, and on Monday and Tuesday in the current week.
Her Maieatjrs Boyal Bounty of 6*.. and the Boyal alms, in ancient times distributed at the gate of the
Boyal Palace, were pSkl to aged ana deserving poor who had been previously selected bv the Lord High
Almoner and the Sub- Almoner, from those who had been recommended by various clergymen and by
other persons in London and Ito vicinity. The number relieved exoeededlOOOpersons, among whom
TeiT many were blind, paralysed, and disabled, some exceeding 90 yeus of age. Formerly bread, meat,
and fish were distributed hi large wooden bowls, abd the officers carried bouquets of flowers and wore
white searves and sa^es ; but the earliest custom was the King washing with his own hands the feet
of as maav poor men as he was old, in imitation of the humility of the Saviour. The last monarch who
perfumed this set was James IL
The pious Queen Adelaide, who died in 1849, and is known to have expended one-
third of her lai^ income in private and public charity, maintained in her household an
Ahnoner, whose duty it waa to investigate all applications for the royal benevolence.
ALM8S0USJES,
BUILT by Public Companies, Benevolent Societies, and private individuals, for aged
and infirm persons, were formerly numerous in the metropolis and its suburbs. The
Companies:' Almshouses were originally erected next their Halls, that the almspeople
might be handy to attend pageants and procesuons ; but these almshouses have mostly
booi rebuilt elsewhere, owing to decay, or the increased value of ground in the City.
Almaboiiaea succeeded the incorporated Hospitals dissolved by King Henry YIII.
Among the earliest erected were the Almshouses founded in Westminster by Lady Mar-
garety mother of King Henry VII., for poor women ; in one of these houses lived Thomas
Barker, who aided Izaak Walton in writing his Complete Angler, They were oon<
8 CURIOSITIES OF LONDON.
▼erted into lodgings for the aiuging-men of the Abbey, and called Choristera' Rents :
they were taken down about 1800.
Westminster contains several of these mnnifiocnt foundations : as the Red Lion Alms-
houses, in York-street, founded in 1577, for eight poor women, by Cornelius Van Dun,
of Brabant, a soldier who served under King Henry VIII., at Toumay. Next are, in the
same neighbourhood, the Almshouses for twelve poor housekeepers of St. Margaret's,
with a school and chapel — ^the boys clad in black : these were founded in 1666, by the
Rev. Edward Palmer, B.D., many years preacher at St. Bride% Fleet-street, and who
used to sleep in the chnrch-tower. Emmanuel Hospital, James-street, was founded by
the will of Lady Ann Dacre, in 1601, for aged parishioners of St. Margaret's ; and in
one of its almshouses, on January 22, 1772, died Mrs. Windimore, cousin of Mary
(consort of William II L) and of Queen Anne.
The Drapers' Company, in 1720, maintained Almshouses at Crutched-friars, Beach-
lane, Grecnwch, Stratford-le-Bow, Shoreditch, St. George's-fields, St. Mary New-
ington, and Mile End. The Almshouses at Crutched-friars were erected and endowed
by Sir John Milborn, Mayor of London, in 1521, for thirteen decayed members of the
Drapers' Company (of which Sir John was several years Master), or bedemen, who
daily prayed at the tomb of their benefiictor, in the adjoining charch. The stone
carving of the Assumption of the Virgin, over the Tudor gateway leading towards the
pleasant little garden, — ^the shields with heraldic devices, — the old-fashioned roof, and
dark, rich, red-coloured brickwork, — formed a picture well remembered; taken down 1862.
The Almshouses and School-house at Mile End were built in 1735, with the ill-
gotten fortune bequeathed by Francis Bancroft, grandson of Archbishop Bancroft^ and
an officer of the Lord Mayor's Court; and so hated for his mercenary and oppressive
practices, that at his funeral, a mob, for very joy, rang the church-bells of St. Helen's,
Bishopsgate, where a monument to his memory had been erected in his life-time. The
almsmen are twenty-four poor old members of the Drapers' Company ; and the School
boards, clothes, educates, and apprentices 100 boys.
The Trinity Almshouses, in the Mile End-road, were erected by the Corporation of
the Trinity House, in 1695, for decayed masters and commanders of ships, mates, and
pilots, and their wives or widows. The thirty houses have characteristic shipping on
their roofs ; there is a chapel, and on the green is a statue of Captain Robert Sondes, a
benefactor to the establishment ; he died 1721.
The Salters' Company had Almshouses for their decayed brethren in Monkwell-
street and Bow-lane ; in 1864, they were rebuilt, at Watford, Herts, at a cost of 8000/.,
besides that of the site and adjacent g^unds.
Traditionally, we owe the foundation of Dame Owen's School and Almshouses, at
Islington, to Archery. In 1610, this rich brewer's widow, in passing along St, John-
street-road, then Hermitage-fields, was struck by a truant arrow, and narrowly
escaped ** braining ;" and the grateful lady, thinking such close shooting dangerous, in
commemoration of her providential escape, built, in 1613, a Free School and ten Alms-
houses upon the scene of her adventure. Since 1839 they have been handsomely
rebuilt by the Brewers' Company, trustees for the Charity.
Whittington's College, or Almshonses, founded in 1621, on College-hill, were rebuilt
by the Mercers' Company, at the foot cf Highgate-hill, about 1826; cost 20,000/.
Upon the old site. College-hill, was built the Mercers' Schools.
Tlie Fishmongers' Company's Almshouses, or St. Peter's Hospital, Newington Butts,
founded 1618, consisted of three courts, dining-hall, and chapel : they were rebuilt on
Wandsworth Common, in 1850; cost 25,000/.
Edward Alleyn, the distinguished actor, and friend of Ben Jonson and Shakspeare,
besides founding Dulwich College, built and endowed three sets of Almshouses in the
metropolis : in Lamb-alley, Bishopsgate-street ; in Bath-street, St. Luke's ; and in Soap-
yard, Sonthwark. Of the Bath -street Almshouses, the first brick was laid by Alleyn
himself, July 13, 1620; they were rebuilt in 1707.
Cure's College, in Deadman's-place, Sonthwark, was founded in 1584, by Thomas
Cure, saddler to King Edward VI. and the Queens Mary and Elizabeth, for 16 poor
pensioners, with 20d, a week ; president^ the Chief Justice of the Common Pleas for
th^ time being. The College has been rebuilt.
AMUSEKENTS.
The £a»t India Almshooses, Poplar, were established at the grantiDg of the first
charter, in the I7th oentory, for widows of mates and seamen dying in the Company's
serriee. There are also booses, with gardens, for the widows of captains, receiving
penstoQs of firom 30Z. to 802. yearly.
In Bath-street, City -road, are Almshonses for poor descendants of French Protestant
Befngees, founded in 1706, after the revocation of the edict of Nantes.
The Gddsmitbs' Company have Almshouses at Woolwich, Acton, and Hackney ; each
\aest has ita little garden.
The Clock and Watchmakers' Asylum was founded in 1857 at Colney Hatch.
At Hozton, are tbe Haberdashers' Company's Almshouses, founded by Robert Ask^
m 1692, for poor men of the Company, and. boys ; here is a statue of the founder.
Morden College, Blackheath, was founded by Sir John Morden, in 1695, for decayed
Berdants^ each 72/. a year, with coals, candles, washing-hath, medical and dericjd
attendanee. The chapel has some fine carvings, reputed to be by Gibbons.
Norfolk AlmsboiKtes, or Trinity Hospital, Greenwich, is an Elizabethan building,
finnded by Henry, Earl of Northampton, 1613. The Trustees were the Mercers'
Cimpany ; revenne, 12,000/. a year.
Surrey Chapel Almshouses, erected 1811, were founded and principally endowed by
tbe Rev. Rowland Hill, for twenty-three destitute females.
The Marylebone Almshouses, built in St. John's-wood-terrace, Regent's-park, in
1836, originated in a legacy of 500/. from Count Woronzow ; the nte being leased for
ninety-Bine years, at a pepper-corn rent, by Colonel Eyre, who is also entitled to two
presentations to the Charity.
The London Almshouses were erected by subscription, at Brixton, in 1833, to com-
memorate the pasdng of the Reform Bill, instead of by illumination.
The King William Naval Asylum, at Penge, opened 1S49, for the widows of Com-
manders, Lieutenants, Masters and Pursers in the Royal Navy, waa founded by Queen
Adebude, to the memory of King William IV.
The Dramatic College has its retreat ** for poor players," a central hall, residences*
and external cloisters, in the Tudor style, at Maybury, in Surrey.
Recently also have been erected Almshouses for the parishes of St. Pancras, St.
Martin, and Shoreditch. For Bootmakers, Mortlake; Pawnbrokers, Forest- gate;
Booksellers, King's Langley; Aged Pilgrims, Edgware-road ; Butchers, Walham-
green; Bookbinders, Ball's-pond; Printers, Wood-green; Tailors (journeymen), Haver-
rtock-hill; and Poulterers and Fishmongers, Southgate; besides many others provided
by Companies ; and Provident, Trades, and other societies, for decayed members.
The Almshouses erected of late years are mostly picturesque buildings, in the old
English style, with gables, turrets, and twisted chimuey-shafls, of red brick, with hand-
some stone dressings. In Weale's London Exhibited in 1851 will be found a more
eopioos Liat of Almshouses (pp. 214—219) than the above.
JMUSEMENTS.
ARCHERY is mentioned among the summer pastimes of the London youth by
Fitzstephen, who wrote in the reign of Henry II.; and the repeated statutes
from the 13th to the 16th centuries, enforcing the use of the Bow, invariably ordered
the holidays to be passed in its exercise. Finsbury appears to have been a very early
locality for Archery ; for in the reign of Edward T. there was formed a society entitled
tbe Archers of Finsbury. Here, in the reign of Henry VII., all the gardens were
datnyed by law, " and of them was made a plain field for archers to shoot in ;" this
being the early appropriation of what is now called *' the Artillery Ground." There is
alio preserved a MS. enumeration of the Archers' Marks in Finsbury Fields, compiled
in 1601 : it gives, in flight shooting, nineteen score as the distance between Allhollows
and Dale's I>eed marks. Indeed, Miss Banks, Sir Joseph's daughter, an enthusiastic
brer of the bow, has left a MS. note that a friend, Mr. Bates, often shot eighteen
score in Finsbury Fields ; the length of the plain being about one mile, and the breadth
three-quarters. Among the curious books on Archery are the Ayine for Finsbwie
Archers 1628 ; and the Ayme for the Archers of St, George's Fields, 1664.
10 CURIOSITIES OF LONDON.
•
Henry VIII. shot with the longbow as well as any of his guards : he chartered a
society for shooting ; and jocosely dignified a snccessful archer as Doke of Shoreditch,
at which place his Grace rewded. This title was long preserved by the Captain of the
London Archers, who used to summon the officers of his several divisions under the
titles of Marquis of Barlo, of Clerkenwell, of Islington, of Hoxton, of Shacklewell,
&c.. Earl of Pancras, &c. We read of a grand pageant in tins reign, of three thousand
archers, guarded by whifflers and billmen, pages and footmen, proceeding from Mer-
chant Taylors' Hall, through Broad -street, the residence of their captain ; thence into
Moorfields by Finsbury, and so on to Smithfield, where they performed evolutions, and
shot at a target for honour.
Edward VI. was fond of Archery ; in his reign the scholars of St. Bartholomew^
who held their cUsputations in cloisters, were rewarded with a bow and silver arrows.
Stow (who died in 1605) informs us, that before his time it had been customary at
Bartholomew-tide for the Lord Mayor, with the sherifb and aldermen, to go into the
fields at Finsbury, where the dtizens were assembled, and shoot at the standard with
broad and flight arrows for games, which were continued for several days.
Charles I. was an excellent archer, and forbadd by proclamation the inclosure of
shooting-grounds near London. Archery, however, seems then to have soon fallen
into disrepute. Sir William Davenant, in a mock poem, entitled The Long Vacation
in London, describes idle attorneys and proctors making matches in Finsbury Fields ^— >
** With lojnei in canvas bow-case tied.
Where arrows stick with mickle pride;
Like e^hosta of Adam Bell and Clytnme,
Sol seta— for fear they'll shoot at him P"
Fepys records, in his Diary, that, when a boy, 'ho used to shoot with his bow and
arrows in the fields of Kingsland.
In the reign of Henry VIII., a shout through the City of "Shovels and spades !
Shovels and spades !" assembled a band of 'prentice lads, who speedily levelled the
'hedges, dykes, and garden-houses, by which trespassers had encroached on the shooting-
fields. Even as late as 1786, the Artillery Company, preceded by a detachment of
their pioneers, marchecf over Finsbury, pulling down the fences again illegally erected.
The brick wall enclosing a lead-mill was also attacked ; but, on the entreaty of the pro-
prietor, the Hon. Company ordered it to be spared, contenting themselves with direct-
ing one of their archers to shoot an arrow over it, in token of their prescriptive right.
^-Proc. Soc, Antiquaries^ London, vol. iv. No. 47.
In 1781, the remains of the " Old Finsbury Archers " established the Toxophilito
Society, at Leicester House, then in Leicester Fields. They held their meetings in
Bloomsbury Fields, behind the present site of Gower-street; here, in 1794, the Turkish
Ambassador's secretary shot, with a bow and arrow, 482 yards. In about twenty-five
years they removed on " target days" to Highbury Bam ; from thence to Bayswater ;
and in 1834, to the Inner Circle, Regent's Park, where they have a rustic lodge, and
between five and six acres of ground. The Sodety consisted in 1850 of 100 members ;
terms, 5^ annually, entrance-fee 5/., and other expenses : they possess the original
silver badge of the old Finsbury Archers. They meet every Friday during the Springs
and Summer ; the shooting is at 60, 80, and 100 yards ; and many prizes are shot for
during the season ; Prince Albert was patron.
The most numerous Society of the kind now existing is, however, ''The Royal Com-
pany of Archers, the Queen's body-guard of Scotland," whose captain-general, the
Duke of Buccleuch, rode in the coronation procession of Queen Victoria.
In 1849, the Society of Cantelows Archers was established ; their shooting-ground is
at Camden-square, Camden New Town ; the prize, a largo silver medal. There was a
fine display of Archery at the Fdte of the Scottish Society of London, in Holland Park,
Kensington, June 20, 21, 1849, when 800/.-worth of prize plate was shot for.
Ballad-Singino, the vestige of the minstrelsy which Cromwell, in 1656, silenced
for a time, was common in the last century. "The Blind Beggar" had conferred
poetic celebrity upon Bcthnal Green ; " Blnck-eyed Susan," and " 'Twas when the seas
wore roaring," were the lyrics that landsmen delighted to sing of the sea ; and
" Jemmy Dawson " (set to music by Dr. Ame) grew into historic fame elsewhere than
\
AMUSEMENTS. H
on tbe scene of the tragedy, Kennington Common. To these succeeded the 8ea*8ongs
of Charles Dihdin, which were commonly sang ahont the streets hy the very tars who
had first felt their patriotic inspiration : a sailor, who wore a model of the hrig Nelson
upon hid hat, long maintained his Yocal celehrity npon Tower-hill. Hogarth, in his
" Wedding of the Indnstrions Apprentice," has painted the famons ballad-singer
** Philip in the Tuhf* and Qravelot» a portrait-painter in the Strand, had several
nttii^ from ballad-singers. The great &ctory of the ballads was long Seven Dials,
where Fitte employed Corcoran, and was the patron of "slender Ben" and "over-head-
and-ears Nic." Among its earlier lyrists were " Tottenham Court Meg," the " Ballad-
linging Cobler," and " onlde Qny, the poet." Mr. Catnach, another noted printer
of ballada, lived in Seven Dials; and at his death, left a considerable fortune. He
was the first ballad-piinter who published yards qfsonffj'for one penny, in former days
the price of a single ballad ; and here he accumulated the largest stock on record of
whole aheet% last-dying speeches, ballads, and other wares of the flying stationers.
Another noted ballad-printer and balkd-monger kept shop in Long-lane, Smithfield.
Bbak A2n> BrLL Baitikg. — ^A map of London, three centuries ago, gives the
*" Spitel Field" fin- archers; "Pynsburie Py«H" ^1*1^ "Dogge's House," for the
citiaena to hunt in ; " Moore Fyeld," with marks, as if used by clothiers ; " the Banck"
by the side of the river; <' the Bolle Bating Theatre," near the '*Beare Baitynge
Hoase," nigh where Loudon Bridge now commences. Pepys describes a visit to the
"besre-gardfln" in 1666, where he saw " some good sport of the bull's tossing of the
dogs^ one into the very boxes. But it is a very nide and nasty pleasure." Hockley-
in-the-hde!, ClerkenweU, was styled " His Majesty's Bear-Qarden" in 1700, and was
the acene of bull and bear-baiting, wrestling, and boxing ; but it was neglected for
Figg's Amphitheatre, in Oxford-road :
* hong liy'd the grreat F^, by the prize-fighting swains
Bole monarch aolaiowledg«d of Marybone plahis."
At TothiU Kelds, Westminster, was in 1798, a noted bear-garden, a portion of *
which now forms Yincent-square; and bear-baiting and rat-hunting lingered in their
Westminster haunts long^ than elsewhere.
Bowls was formerly a popular game in the metropolis: it succeeded archery
before Stew's time, when many gardens of the City and its suburbs were converted
into bowling-alleys ; our anthor, in 1579, wrote : — " Common bowling-alleyes are privy
moibes that eat np the credit of many idle citizens, whose gaynes at home arc not
tble to wdgh downe theyr losses abroad ;" elsewhere he says : — " Our bowes are
toroed into bowls." The game of bowls, however, is as old as the 13th century, and
in the ooantry was played upon greens; but the alleys required less room, and were
covered over, so that the game could be played therein all weathers, whence they
became greatly multiplied in London. Bowls was played by Henry VIII., who added
to Whitehall " tennise-conrtes, howUng-aUeytf. and a cock-pit."
Spring Garden, Charing-cross, had its ordinaxy and bowling-g^reen kept By a servant
of Charles the First's Court ; and Piccadilly Hall, at the comer of Windmill-street and
Coventiy-rtreet, had its upper and lower bowling-greens.
The grave John Locke, in one of his private journals (1679), records ** bowling at
HareboDe and Putney by persons of quality ; wrestling in Lincoln's Inn Fields on
summer evenings ; bear and bull buting at the Bear-Garden ; shooting in the long-bow
and stob-baU in TothiU Fields."
In the last century. Bowls was much played in the suburbs, especially at Marybone
Oardensi, mentioned by Pepys in 1668 as *' a pretty place." Its bowling-greens were
frequented by the nobility, among whom was Sheffield, Duke of Buckingham, to whose
poitialily for the game Lady Mary Wortley Montague refers in the oft-quoted line—
"Some dokofl at Marybone bowl time away.'*
The place grew into disrepute, and was closed in 1777 ; it is made by Gay a scene
of Macheatfa's debauchery in the Beggai's Opera,
Oreens remain attached to a few old tevems round London. In the town, bowling
alleys were abolished in the kst century, and gave rise to long-bowling, or bowling in
12 CURIOSITIES OF LONDON.
a narrow inclosnrc at nine-piiiB upon a square frame. They have been succeeded by
the American bowling alley, sometimes in tlie cellar of the tavern.
Bowling-street, Westminster, commemorates the spot where the members of the
Convent of St. Peter amused themselves at bowls. We have also Bowling-street in
Marylebone and Turnmill-street ; Bowling-green-lane in Clerkenwell and Southwark ;
Bowling-gpreen-buildings, Bryanston-square ; and Bowling-green-walk at Hoxton.
Card-Playixg- would appear to have become early a favourite pastime with the
Londoners ; for in 1643 a law was passed on a petition of the cardmakers of the City,
prohibiting the importation of plnying-cards. It was a very fashionable Court amuse-
ment in the reign of Henry VII. ; and so general, that it became necessary to prohibit
by law apprentices from using cards, except in the Christmas holydays, and then only
in their masters' houses. Agreeable to this privilege, Stow, speaking of the customs at
London, says : " From Allhallow-eve to the day following Candlemas-day, there was,
among other sports, playing at cards, for counters, nails, and points, in every house,
more for pastime than for gayne." Basset was a fashionable card-game at the end of
the I7th century ; and Basset-tokens are preserved :^
*' Who the bowl or rattling dice compares
To Basset's heavenly joys and pleasing cares?"— Pope** Eelogue^BanH4dble,
Whist, in its present state, was not played till about 1730, when it was much studied
by a set of gentlemen at the Crown Coffee-house in Bedford-row. Gaming in public
was formerly a royal pastime at Christmas : George I. and George II. played, on certain
days, at hazard, nt the Groom-porter*s, in St. James's Palace ; and this was continued
some time in the reign of George III. The name of "hells," applied in our day
to gambling-houses, originated in the room in St. James's I'alace formerly appropriated
to hazard being remarkably dark, and on that account called " hell." {Theodore Hook.)
A few years ago there were more of tliose infamous places of resort in London than hi
any other city in the world. The handsome gas-lamp and the green or red baize door
at the end of the passage were conspicuous in the vicinity of St. James's ; and of St.
George's, Hanover-squsre ; and the moral nuisances still linger about St. James's
parish and Leicester- square.
CocE-FiGUTiNO- was a London pastime 1190, and very fashionable from the reign
of Edward III. almost to our time. Henry YI II. added a cock-pit to Whitehall Palace,
where James I. went to see the sport twice a week ; this pit being upon the site of the
present Privy Council Office : hence the Cockpit Gate, built by Holbein, across the road
at Whitehall. Besides this Royal Cockpit, there was formerly a Cockpit in Druiy-laue,
now corrupted to Pitt-place, and there was the Cockpit or Pbcenix Theatre. There
were other Cockpits, in Jewin-street, Cripplegate, Tuffcon-street, whence the Cock-
pit Yards there; another in Shoe-lane, temp, James I., whence Coekpit-court in
that neighbourhood ; and another noted Cockpit was " behind Gray's Inn." Hogarth's
print best illustrates the brutal refinement of the Cock-fighting of the last oentur}' ;
and the barbarous sport was, we believe, last encouraged at Westminster, not far diis-
tant from the spot, where in kindred pastime, Royalty relieved the weighty cares of
State. The famous Westminster cock-pit was in Park-street. Cock-fighting is now
forbidden and punishable by statute.
Cbicket is stated to have been played at Pinsbury, in the Royal Artillery Ground,
before the year 1746. Some thirty years later, in 1774, a committee of noblemen and
gentlemen was formed, under the presidency of Sir William Draper ; they met at the
Star and Garter in Pall Mall, and laid down the first rules of Cricket, which rules form
the basis of the laws of Cricket to this day. The next great step was the establishment
of the White Conduit Club, in the year 1799 ; and among its members, in addition to
the before-named patron of the game, we find the names of Lord Winchilsea, Lord
Strathaven, and Sir P. Bnrrell. Their place of meeting was still the Star and Garter,
and thdr Ground was in White Conduit-fields. One of the attendants, Thomas Lord,
was persuaded to take a ground ; and under the patronage of the old White Conduit
Club, a new club, called the Marylebone Club, was formed at " Lord's Cricket Ground,"
which was the site of the present Dorset-square. Lord's Ground is now in St. John's*
AMUSEMENTS. 13
wood-rood, and is about 7-^ acres in extent, and devoted almost exclusively, in May,
June, and July, to the matches and practice of the Marylebone Club; at the annual
meeting, early in May, the Laws of Cricket are revised, and matches for the season
arranged. Attached to Lord's Ground are a Tennis Court and Baths. Here is an old
painting of the game, in wluch the bat has the bend of the club, which, it is thought,
denotes Cricket to have been a gradual improvement of the Club and Ball. Amongst
the other principal Cricket-grounds are the Oval (larger than Lord's) at Eennington :
the Royal Artillery Ground, Finsbury, is, perhaps, the oldest ground in London ; for
here a match vas played between Kent and All England in 1746. There was for-
merly a groond in Copenhagen-fields ; there is one at the Brecknock Arms, Camden-
town; at Brixton, near the church; the Middlesex County, Islington Cattle Market,
Tufhdl Park, Highbury ; Victoria Pftrk, Battersea Park ; Kosemury Branch, Peckham ;
Cr3rstal Palace, Sj'denham ; Sluice House, Homsey ; Primrose Hill ; Vincent-square,
Westminster ; and at Bow, Millwall, and Putney, Of the younger London clubs is
the Ckni Service, consisting exclusively of members of the Civil Service.
DirCK-HnmNa with dogs was a barbarous pastime of the last century in the
nesghboorbood of London, happily put an end to by the want of ponds of water. St.
Geoi^^s Fields was a notorious place for this sport ; hence the infamous Dog and
Duck TaYem and Tea Gardens, from a noted dog which hunted ducks on a sheet of
water there : Hannah More makes it a favourite resort of her Cheapside Apprentice.
The premises were afterwards let to the School for the Indigent Blind, and were taken
down in 1812, when Bethlem Hospital was built upon the site; in its front wall is
preserved the original mgn-stone of the tavem^-a dog with a duck thrown across its
back. Ingenious lesson this — ^in setting up a memorial of profligacy and cruelty upon
a site devoted to the restoration of reason ! Duck-hunting was also one of the low
sports of the butchers of Shepherd's Market, at May Fair, where, to tins day, is a spot
known as the " duck-hunting pond ;" and within memory, on the site of Hertford-
r.reet, was the Dog and Duck publichouse, with its ducking-pond, boarded up knee-
high and shaded by willows.
Equestbiavtsm appears to have been a favourite amusement with the Londoners for
more than a century past. One of the first performers was Thomas Johnson, who
exhilnted in a field behind the Three Hats, at Islington, in 1758 ; he was succeeded
by one Sampaon, in 1767, whose wife was the first female equestrian performer in
England. In the same year, rode one Price at D'Aubigny's, or Dobney's Gardens,
nearly opponte the Belvedere Tavern, Pentonville, and where Wildman exhibited his
docile bees, in 1772 ; the site is at this day marked by Dobney's-place.
About this time Hughes established himself in St. George's Fields, and Astley in
Westminater-bridge-road ; the latter was succeeded by Ducrow and Batty. Horses
in England were taught dancing as early as the 13th century ; but the first mention of
feats on horseback occurs in the Privy Purse expenses of Henry VIII.
Faibb. — ^The three great Fairs of old London belonged, in Catholic times, to the
heads of religious houses : Westminster to its abbot ; and St. Bartholomew and South*
wark (or St. Mary Overie, as it is oftener called), to the Priors of those monasteries.
Westminster, or St. Edward's Fair (held on tiiat Saint's Day), was commanded by
proclamation of Edward III., in 1248 ; it was first held in St. Margaret's churchyard,
and then was removed to Totbill-fields, where the Fair continued to be held, but of
ooosiderably lev extent, so lately as 1823.
Two Fairs were held in Smithfield at Bartholomew-tide : that within the Priory
predncts was one of the great Cloth Fairs of England : the other, Bartholomew Fur,
vas held in the Field, and granted to the City of Xiondon, for cattle and goods. The
latter was proclaimed, for the last time, in the year 1855.
Sontbwark Fair was held on St. Margaret's-hiU, on the day after Bartholomew
Fair ; and was by charter limited to three days, but usually lasted fourteen. Evelyn
records among its wonders, monkeys and asses dancing on the tight rope ; and the tricks
of an Italian wench, whom all the Court went to see. Pepys tells of its puppet-shows,
etpedally that of Whittington ; and of Jacob Hall's dancing on the ropes. The Fair
was suppressed in 1762 ; but it hves in one of Hogarth's prints.
14 CURIOSITIES OF LONDON,
St. James's Fair, held in the month of May, in Brook Field, acquired the name of
"May Fair." It was aholUhed in 1709; hut was revived, and was not finally sup-
pressed until late in the reign of George III. It gave the fashionahle quarter m which
it was held the name of May Fair; and the Brook to Brook-street,
FiBEWOKKS, for pastime, are rarely spoken of previous to the reign of Elizaheth;
when the foyste, or galley, with a great red dragon, and *• wilde men casting of fire,"
accompanied the Xiord Mayor's barge upon the Tliames. A writer in the reign of
James I. assures us there were then ** abiding in the City of Ixmdon men very skilful in
the art of pyrotechnic, or of fireworkes ;" which were principally displayed by persons
fantastically dressed, and called Green Men. In the last century, the train of Artillery
displayed annually a grand firework upon Tower-hill on the evening of his Majesty's
birthday. Fireworks were exhibited r^Tularly at Marybone Gardens and at RaneUigh;
not at Vauzhall until 1798, and then but occanonally. At Bermondsey Spa, and va-
rious tea-gardens, they were also displayed, but in inferior style. Fireworks were first
exhibited at the Surrey Zool(^cal Gaidens, in illustration of picture-models ; and similar
galas at Cremomo Gardens, Chelsea, have been yery successfuL
There have been some grand Firework displays at the Government expense : as in
the Green Park at the Peace of Aix-la-Chapelle, in 1748; and on August 1, 1814, in
celebration of the general Peace, and the Centenary of the accession of the Brunswick
family to the British throne, these fireworks being by Sir William Congreve, of
rocket celebrity. There have been similar firework galas in Hyde Park at coro-
nations and Peace celebrations. At the coronation of King William IV. and Queen
Adelaide, Sept 1831, the amount expended for fireworks, and for keeping open the
public theatres, was 30342. 18^. Id,
FoOTBAMi was played in the twelfth century by the youth of the City in the fields ;
and five centuries later, we find football players in Cheapside, Covent Garden, and the
Strand; Moorfields and Lincobi's Inn Fields, There is an old print of football play
in Fleet-street,
HTiNTrNa.^'*The Common Hunt" dates from a charter granted by Henry I. to the
citizens to " have chaces, and hunts :" and Strype, so late as the reign of George I.,
reckons among the modern amusements of the Londoners " riding on horseback, and
hunting with my Lord Mayor's hounds, when the Common Hunt g^oes out." The
Epping Hunt was appointed from a similar charter granted to the citizens. Strype
describes a visitation of the Lord Mayor Harper, and other civic authorities, to the
Tyburn Conduits, in 1562, when " afore dinner they himted the hare and killed her,"
at the end of St. Giles's, with great hallooing and blowing of horns. Much later, the
Lord Mayor and Aldermen enjoyed this sport on Easter Monday, when a stag was
turned out. The kennel for the hounds, and a house adjoining, was rebuilt about 1800.
The officer of the Common Hunt has not long been abolished in the Lord Mayor's
household ; the " hunt" exists but in the verse of Tom DTlrfey, or Thomas Hood.
Poaching was common in the metropolis three centuries since ; for, in a proclamation
of Hcniy VIII., 1546 (preserved in the library of the Sodety of Antiquaries), the King
is desirous to have the " Games of Hare, Partridge, Pheasant, and Heron," preserved
from Westminster palace to St. Giles's-in-the-Fields, &c.
Masqubsades were introduced into England from Italy in 1512-13, by Henry VIII.
They were frequent among the citizens at the Restoration. In 1717-18, a very
splendid masquerade was given at the Opera House by Heidegger, at which there'was
high play with heaps of guineas. Soon after the bishops preached against these amuse-
ments, which led to thdr suppression, 9 George I., 1723. They were, however, revived,
and carried to shameful excess by connivance of the Government, and in direct viola-
tion of tiie laws. During the food-riots, in 1772, there was given at the Pantheon,
Oxford-street, a masquerade, in which 10,000 guineas were expended by the revellers
in dress and other luxuries : Oliver Goldsmith masqueraded there in " an old English
dress." At the Pantheon, in 1783, a masquerade was got up by Delpini, the fiimous
clown, in celebration of the Prince of Wales attaining his majority ; tickets, three
AMUSEMENTS. 15
gmneas esdi. In the aame year Qarrick attended a masked f^te at the Pantheon as
King of the Oipaies. But the meet eccentric entrepreneur was Madame Teresa
Carndys* *'the Heideggper of the age/' who, at Carlisle House, Soho-sqnare, gave
utaaqnerades in extravagant style, and was soon ruined. These entertainments were
sever enoooraged by Qeorge III., at whose request Foote abstained irom giving a
masquerade at the Little Theatre in the Haymarket. At Ranelagh they were given
ooea^ooaUy. At the Open House and Argyle Booms, masquerades were given ; and
ml Dmry-lane and Covent Garden Theatres : towards the dose of a masquerade, or
masked ball. May 5, 1856, the latter theatre was entirely destroyed by fire.
HATorofl AND May-Games were celebrated by ** the citizens of London of all
csbite^' with Maypoles and warlike shows, " with good archers, monice-dancers, and
other devices for pastime, all day long ; and towards evening they had stage-plays and
bonfires in the streets." The games were preaded over by the Lord and Lady of the
Kav, decorated with scarves, ribbons, and other finery ; to which were added Robin
Hood and Maid Marian. May-poles were regularly erected in many parts of London
on Mayday morning ; as in Leadenhall-8treet» before the south door of St. Andrew's
Chnrch, therefore called Under Shaft ; this pole being referred to by Chancer as " &e
great Shaft of ComhiU :" it was higher than the church-steeple (91 feet). After Evil
Mayday, 1517, this pole was, in 1549, sawn into pieces, and burnt as " an idoL"
Another celebrated Maypole was that placed in the Strand, upon the site of the present
dinrch of St. Mary: tUs pole was 134 feet high, and was set up with great x>omp and
festivity in 1661 ; it was lnt>ken with a high wind a few years after. Opposite is Maypole-
alky, at the top of which and over against the gate of Craven House, were the lodgings
of Nell Gwyn ; and Mr. Peter Cunningham, in his piquant Story of Nell, says : — " This
Maypole, long a oonspicoous ornament to the West-end of London, rose to a great
height above the surrounding houses, and was surmounted by a crown and vane, and
the royal arms richly ^Ided." Stow tells us that this pole was put up by the farrier,
Clargea, to commemorate his daughter's good fortune of arriving to the dignity of
Duchess of Albemarle, by being married to General Monk, when he was a private
gentleman. The Maypole being g^wn old and damaged, was, in 1717, obtained by
Sir Isaac Newton (who then lived in St. Martin's-street, Leicester-fields)^ and being
taken down was carried away to Wanstead, in Essex ; there it was placed in Sir Richard
Cluld's park, for nusing a telescope, the largest in the world, stated to have belonged
to Newton's firiend, Mr. Pound, rector of Wanstead, to whom it had been presented by
H. Hogon, a Frendi member of the Royal Society. Another famous Maypole stood in
Baang-hme : Stow described it as a large fir-pole, which reached to the roof of Gerard's
Hall Inn, and was fid>led to be the justice-staff of Gerard the giant, of whom a carved
wood figure stood by the gate until the demolition of the inn in 1852. There are
other places in London which indicate the site of Maypoles : as Maypole-alley, St.
Margarefs-hill, Southwark ; and Maypole-alley, from the north side of Wych-street
into Stanhope-street. In the Beaufpy Collection are two tokens : one Nat. Child,
"near y* May poal, in y* Strand, Grocer;" and Philip Complin, ** at the Maypole in
the Strand, Distiller," and the Maypole, with some small building attached.
Ths Pasxs had their pastimes upwards of two centuries ago. The French game of
Faille-mail (striking a ball with a wooden mallet through an iron ring) was introduced
in the reign of Charles I. Skating was first brought into vogue in England on the new
canal in St. James's Park : Evelyn enters it» 1st Dec., 1 662, '* with scheets after the
manner of the Hollanders." Pepys records, 10th Aug. 1664> Lords Costlehaven and
Artan ranning down and killing a stout buck in St. James's Park, for a wager, before
the King; and Evelyn enters, 19th Feb. 1666-67, a wrestling-match for 10002. in
St. Jam^s Pkrk, before his Majesty, a world of lords, and other spectators, 'twixt the
western and northern men, when the former won. At this time there were in the
park flocks of wild-fowl breeding about the Decoy, antelopes, an elk, red-deer, roe-
buds, stags, Guinea fowls, Arabian sheep, kc, : and here Charles II. might be seen
playing with his dogs and fce(Ung his ducks. Birdcage Walk was named from the
vnuj established there in the reign of James I,, and the decoy made there in tho
rdgn of Charles II. '
16 CURIOSITIES OF LONDON,
Hyde Park was formerly much celebrated for its deer-hunts, foot and horse racesy
musters and coach-raoes, boxing-matches, and Mayings.
Prison Bass, ob Base, is as old as the reign of Edward IIT., when it wax, by
proclamation, prohibited to be played in the avenues of the Palace at Westminster
during the session of Parliament, from its interruption of the members and others
in passing to and fro. About 1780, a grand match at base was played in the fields be-
hind Montagu House, by twelve gentlemen of Cheshire against twelve of Derbyshire,
^ a considerable stake.
" PuirCH" has fbr nearly two centuries delighted the Londoner ; there being entries
of Punchinello's Booth at Charing-cross, 1666, in the Overseers' Books of St.
Martin's-in-the-Fields. (Cunningham's SandbooJc, 2nd edit.) Punch's costume closd.y
resembles the Elizabethan peaseood-bellied doublets. Covent Garden was another oif
Punch's early " pitches," where Powell's performances thinned the congregation in St.
Paul's Church, as we learn from No. 14 of the Spectator ; and in 1711-12, he lessened
the receipts at the Opera and the national theatres : the showman worked the wires,
and " by a thread in one of Punch's chops, gave to him the appearance of animation."
Such was the olden contrivance : at present the puppets are played by putting the
hand under the dress, and making the middle finger and thumb serve for the arms,
while the forefinger works the head. Mr. Windham, when one of the Secretaries of
State, on his way from Downing-street to the House of. Commons, was seen to stop
and enjoy the whimsicalities of Punch.
" We are never ashamed of being caught gazing at Punch," wrote Albert Smith.
In 1828, George Cruikshank produced his grotesque etchings of Piuch, to illustrate
Mr. Payne Collier's very agreeable volume. Punch and Judy, Haydon painted Punch,
with Hogarthian humour, in 1829 ; and Webster, B.A., painted with equal humour
" Punch in the Country," in 1840.
Street Shows and PerfonneTa have become very nnroerons in the present day. Sach are Panch.
Fantoccini, Chinese Shades, and Galantee Shows; jurglers, coQJttrors, balancers, posturera, stiff
tumblers, pole-baLuioerB, saJunanders or flre-eatera, and sword and snake followers ; street dancers ;
and performances of trained animals, as dancing doga, acting birds, and mice. The street mnsaciana
include brass and other bands, Ethiopians, fiinn-yard fiddlers, horse organs, Italian organ-boys, hurdy-
ry s V ^3 ■ " ' _ ~ — - ^ — — _ - — ^ y _____ ^_ — ^ y - — — r — - f " — ^y — ^^^^y P — ~ ~ ^7V
measuring machines. Porsini and Pike were celebrated Punch exhibitors; the Tormer is said to have
frequently taken 10/. a day; but he died in St. Giles* workhouse. A set of Punch figures costs about
151., and the show about 8/. The speaking is done by a "call," made of two curved pieces of metal
about the size of a knee-buckle, bound together with black thread, and between them is a thin metal
pli^ Porsini used a trumpet The present artists maintain that " Punch is exempt from the
Police Act." The moet profitable performance is that in houses ; and Punch's beat season Is in the
spring, and at Christmas and Midsummer : the best '* pitches " in London are Leicester-square, Begent-
street (comer of New Burlington-street), Oxford Market, and Belgrave-square. There are sixteen
Punch and Judy frames in England, eight of which work in London. FaiUoeeimi are puppets, which,
with frune, cost about 101. Chinete Shads* consist of a frame like Punch's, with a transparent curtain
and movable figures s shown only at night, with much dialogue.— <9elec<«<{ Jr<ni^ a LtUer bjf Htnrjf
Mttjfhtws Morning CkronieU, May 16, 1860.
Punch has not, however, been always a mere puppet : for we read of a farce called
** Punch turned Schoolmaster;" and in 1841, was commenced " Punch ; or, the London
Charivari," which under excellent editorship has effected conaderable moral service.*
Puppet-shows were common at the suburban fiiirs in the early part of the last cen-
tury ; they also competed with the larger theatres, until they were superseded by the
revival of Pantomimes. But the Italian Fantoccini was popular early in the present
century. The pnppet-showman, with his box upon his back, is now rarely seen in the
street, but we have the artist of Punch, with his theatre. Clockwork figures appeared
early in the last century. In the reign of Queen Anne, a celebrated show of this kind
was exhibited at the great house in the Strand over against the Globe Tavern, near
Hungerford Market. A saraband, danced with castanets, and throwing balls and
knives alternately into the air and catching them as they fall, with catching oranges
upon forks, formed part of the puppet-showman's exhibition.
* In a 14th-century manuscript of the French romance of Alexander^ in the Bodleian Library, is an
illumination of Pundi's show, the figures closely resembling the modem Punch and Judy.
AMUSEMENTS. 17
Men md monkeys dancing npon ropes, or walking upon wires; dogs dancing
minnets, pigs arranging letters so as to form words at their master's command, hares
beating drams, or birds firing off cannons — ^these were favourite exhibitions early in
the last century. Boree^hows, ladder-dancing, and posturing, are also of this date.
Bacexts is nearly coeval with Tennis, which it so much resembles ; Backets being
striking a ball against a wall, and Tennis dropping a ball over a central net. There
are Backet-gronnds at the Belvedere, Pentonville ; at the Tennis Court, Haymarket ;
and at Prince's Club Racquets Courts, Chelsea. Backets was also much played in the
Fleet Prison, taken down in 1841 ; in the Queen's Bench Prison ; and at Copenhagen
Hoose, St. Pancras.
SxLT'BOX, Music will be remembered by the middle-aged reader. It was played
with a roUing-pin and salt-box beaten together, thet noise being modulated so as to
reaemble a sort of music It was formerly played by Merry Andrews, at country fairs.
Bonnel Thornton composed a burlesque Ode an St. Cecilia's Bay, which Dr. Bumey,
in 1769, set for Smart and Newbury. It was performed at Banelagh, by masks :
Beard sang the salt-box song, which was admirably accompanied on that instrument
by Brent, the fencing-master; Skeggs, on the broomstick, as bassoon ; and a remark -
aUe performance on the Je¥r's harp. Cleavers were cast in bell- metal for this enter-
tainment. All the performers of the Old Woman's Oratory, employed by Foote, were
engaged at Banelagh on this occasion. Price, landlord of the Green Man, formerly
the Farthing I^f e-bouse, was a £imons salt-box player.
Skittlbs» corrupted from kayles of the fourteenth century^ and afterwards kettle,
or kettle-pns, was much played in and near London until 1780, when the magistrates
abolished all Skittle-grounds. To this succeeded Nine-holes, or " Bubble-the-justice,"
on the anppontion that it could not be set aside by the justices, as it was not named in
the prohibitory statutes : it is now called " Bumble-puppy," and the vulgarity of the
term is characteristic of the company who play it. Nine-pins, Dutch-pins, and Four-
cornera are but variations of Skittles ; which games originated in the covering of open
groands in London and its neighbourhood with houses.
Tka. Gabdenb were the &vonrite resorts of the middle classes in the last century ;
and, in most cases, they succeeded the promenade at mineral springs. Such was
Bagni^e Wells^ Battle Bridge-road, taken down a few years since : we remember its
ooDcert-room and organ, its grottoes and fountains, and grotesque figures, and bust of
NeQ Gwynne, who is traditionally stated to have resided here. Next were
Sadler's WeUs Music House, before it became a theatre; Tunbridge Wells, or
Islington Spa ; and the Three Hats, at Islington, mentioned in Bickerstaff's comedy
of the Hypocrite : the house remained a tavern until 1839, when it was taken down.
White Conduit House, Pentonville, was originally a small ale and cake house, built in
the fields, in the reign of Charles I., and named from a conduit in an adjoining mendow.
An asMoation of Protestant Dissenters, formed in the reign of Queen Anne, met at
this boose : the Wheal Pond, dose by, was a famous place for duck-hunting ; Sir
William Davenant describes a city wife going to the fields to " sop her cake in milk ;"
and Goldsmith speaks of tea-drinking parties, with hot rolls and butter, at White
Condmt House. A description of the place m 1774 presents a general picture of the
Tea Garden of that period : " The garden is formed into walks, prettily disposed. At
the end of the principal one is a painting, which seems to render it (the walk) longer
in appearance than it really is. In the centre of the gparden is a fish pond. There
are bozea for company, curiously cut into hedges^ adorned with Flemish and other
paintings. There are two handsome tea-rooms, one over the other, and several inferior
ones in the boose." The fish-pond was soon after filled up, and its site planted, the
paintings removed, and a new dancing and tea saloon, called the Apollb-room, built.
In 18% the gardens were opened as a '' Minor Vanxhall ;" and here Mrs. Bland, the
charming vocalist^ last sang in public In 1829, the small house, the original tavern»
was taken down, and rebuilt upon a more extensive plan, so as to dine upwards of 2000
penons in its largest room. But in 1849 these premises were also taken down ; the
tarem was re-erected on a smaller scale, and the garden-ground let on building leases,
for White Conduit-street, &c;
0
18 CURIOSITIES OF LONDON,
Next we reach Highbury, where originally stood the Bam of the Monks of Clerken-
well : henoe the old name of the Tavern, Highbury Bam. In the fields, opposite
Pentonville Prison, was Copenhagen House (Coopen Hagen, in Camden's Bnia»nia,
1695), first opened by a Dane. In Islington there remain the Canonbury Tea
Qardens, a very old resort (the tavern has been rebnilt) ; and in Bamsbary remains
an old tea-garden. Hoxton had also several tea-gardens.
Toten Hall, at the north-west extremity of Tottenham-oourt-road, was the ancient
oonrt-hoQse of that manor, and subsequently a place of public entertainment. In the
parish books of St. Giles's-in-the-Fields, year 1645, is an entry of Mrs. Stacye's maid
and others being fined " for drinking at Tottenhall Court on the Sabbath due, xijef.
a-piece." The premises next became the Adam and Eve Tea Gardens: before the
house is laid the scene of Hogarth's March to Finchley ; and in the grounds, May 16,
1785, Lunardi fell with his burst balloon, and was but slightly injured. The Gardens
were much frequented ; but the place falling into disrepute, the music-house was taken
down, and upon the site of the Skittle-grounds and Gardens was built Eden-street,
Hampstead-road, the public-bouse being rebuilt.
Chalk Farm, corrupted from the old village of Chalcot, shown in Camden's map, was
another noted tea-garden. This was " the White House," to which, in 1678, the body
of Sir Edmimd Berry Godfrey was carried, after it had been fonnd, about two fields
distant, upon the south side of Primrose Hill. Several daels have been fought here :
here John Scott (of the London Magazine), was shot by Mr. Christie, Feb. 16, 1821 ;
and the poet Moore, and Jeffrey, of the Edinburgh Beview, met in 1806. Chalk Farm
now gives name to the railway station here.
The above were the most celebrated Tea-gardens north and north-west of London.
Westward lay Marybone Gardens, open for public breakfasts and evening oonoei-ts to
high-class company ; fireworks being added. In 1777-8 these gardens were shut up,
and the site let to builders; the ground being now occupied by Beaumontand I>evon-
shire streets, and part of Devonshire-place. Next were the Bayswater Gardens*
once the "Physic Garden" of Sir John HiU; and Ranelagh, the costly rival
of Yauxhall, as well as a Tea-garden in the present century. Mulberry Garden, upon
the present site of Buckingham Palace and its gardens, dated from temp. Charles I.
I^mlico was noted for its tea-gardens and ale to our day : the Gun Tea Gardens,
Queen's-row, with its arbours and grotesque figures, were the last to disappear:
here were the Dwarf Tavern and Gardens; the Star and Garter, Five-fields-row,
famous for its equestrianism, fireworks, and dancing; and the Orange, upon the Ate of
St. Barnabas Church. Here, too, was New Banelagh ; and Jenny's Wlidm, Bowling-
green, and gardens, the site now covered by St. George's-row : it was opened temp,
George T. for fireworks ; and it had its duck-hunting pond, alcoves, and character figures,
and was much frequented for buU-baitiug in the adjoining fields. Knightsbridge was noted
for its Spring Gardens, and houses of entertainment. Southward were Cumberland
' Gardens and Assembly Rooms, the site now occupied by Price's Candle Company's
Works, YauxhaU Bridge; Spring Garden, Yauxhall; the Dog and Duck, and Apollo
Gardens, St. George's Fields; and Cuper's Gardens, through the »te of which runs
Waterloo-bridge-road. Bermondsey had its Spa Gardens in the Grange-rood; and
Cupid's Gardens upon Jacob's Island, the ill-fated locality in which the chdera (1848-9)
first broke out in the metropolis, and where it lingered last.
Few of these old Tea Gardens remain. In the increase of London within the last
half-century, the environs have lost their suburban character, and have become part
of the great town itself; and steamboats and railways now, for very smaU sums, convey
the over- worked artisan out of its murky atmosphere into pure air and rural scenery.
Tekkib, from the French Hand-ball or Palm-play, was played in London in the six-
teenth century, in covered courts erected for the purpose. Henry YII. and YIII. were
fond of Tennis ; and the latter added to the palace of Whitehall " tennise-conrts."
James I. recommended Tennis to his son, as becoming a prince. Charles II. was an
accomplished Tennis-player, and had particular dresses for playing in. We have a
relic of these times in the Tennis-court in James-street, Haymarket, which bears the
date 1676, and was formerly attadied to the gaming-house, or Shavers' Hall. In
APOLLOmCOK— ARCADES. 19
WindxnUl-fltreet was another Tennis-court, which helonged to Piccadilly Hall, oko a
gaming-hoose. Another famons Tennis-coart was Gibbon's, in Clare Market, where
KiQigrew's ocymedians performed for some time. There aT« in Holbom, Bhickfriais,
and Soothwark thorongrhfiires known as " Tennis-courts," denoting the game to have
been formerly played there.
Thames Sports. — ^Fitzstephen relates of the ancient Londoners fighting " battles on
Easter holidays on the water, by striking a shield with a lance." There was also a
kind of water toomament, in which the two combatants, standing In two wherries,
rowed and ran against each other, and fonght with staves and shields. In the game
of the Water Quintain the shield was fixed upon a post in the river, and the champion,
stationed in a boat, struck the shield with a lance. Jousting upon the ice was likewise
practised by the yoong Londoners. Each mansion upon the Thames bank had its
private retinue, of barge and wherry, and the sovereign a gilded and tapestried
bargeu There were also public boats, with gay awnings, for tea-parties. All this gay
water-pageantry has disappeared, including the state barges of the Sovereign and the
Admiralty, the Lord Mayor, and a few of the wealthier of the City companies. In
1850, the old Barge of the Goldsmiths' Company was let at Kichmond, " fur Pic-nic,
Wedding, and Birthday Parties," at 52. 5*. per day. The great civic barge, the
JJaria Woody is likewise let for similar occasions.
Of Boat-raoes, the oldest is that for Dpgget's Coat and Badge, on August 1 : the
prizes are distributed by the Fishmongers' Company. We h&ve also Regattas and
Sailing Matches, to aid in the enjoyment of which steamers are employed.
Ths^tbss originated in Miracle Playa, such as were acted in fields and open places
and inn-yards. The playhouse dates from the age of Elizabeth ; and between 1570
and 1629. London had seventeen theatres. (See Theat££S.)
APOLLONICON, TKE.
A CHAMBER-ORGAN of vast power, supplied with both keys and barrels, was
bmlt by Messrs. Flight and Robson, of 101, St. Martin's-Ume, and first exhibited by
them at their mannfiictory in 1817* The denomination is formed from Apollon, and
the Greek temdnation toon.
* The Apolkmleoa,** sajs a eontemporaiy detniptlon, " Is either seir-aoUngr, hj meaat of mscfainery,
or may be played on bj k^i. The rnntic. when the organ is worked by machinery, iBpinntd on three
CTlinden or barreli, each acting on a dietmct diriiion of the inetrament ; and these, in their rerolation,
not only admit air to the pipei^ but octaAlly regulate and work the itops, formhig, by an instantaneoos
actkn, all the neoenary eomblnstions. The key-boards are five in number j the central and largest
oomprising fire octaves, and the smaller ones, of which two are placed on each side the larger, two
octaves era. To the oentral key-board are attached a swell and some eompoond pedals, enabling the
yciftmuer to prodnce all the changes and variety of effect that the mosic mav require. There is also a
■«y-board, coi^prising two octaves of other pedals, operating on the k^:est pipes of the instrument
There are 1900 pipes, the largest twenty-four feet in length, and one foot eleven inches in aperture,
being eight feet longer than the corresponding pipe in the great organ at Haarlem. The number of
stop* is fbrty-five, and these in their combinations afford very good imitations of the various wind
iostraments used in au orchestra. Two kettlenlrums, struck by a curious contrivance in the machinery,
are, with the other mechanism, inclosed in a case twenty-four feet higfa^ embelUahed with pilasters,
and paintiags of Apollo, Clio, and Erato."
This magnificent instnunent performed Mozart's overtures to the Zauherflote, Figaro,
tnd Idowtauo; Beethoven's Prometheut ; Weber's to the Freischuiz and Oberon ;
Cherobini's to Anacreoih &^t without omitting a angle note of the score, and with all
the fortes and panos, the crescendoes and diminuendoes, as directed by the composers,
with an aocurocy that no band can possibly exceed, and very few can reasonably hope
to rivaL The Apollonioon was five years in building, and at an expense of about
10,000/., nnder the patronage of George IV. Its performances were popular for many
years.
AltCADES.
OKLY a few of these covered passages (series of arches on insulated piers) have
been oonstracted in London ; although Paris contains upwards of twenty />a«#^^^
oraalleries of ftmilor design.
C2
20 CUBI08ITIE8 OF LONBOK
BuBLnroTOV Ascadb. — ^When, in 1816, Burlington House was purcbaaed of the Duke
of Devonshire by his undo. Lord George Cavendish, that nobleman converted a narrow
slip of groond on the vest side of the hoose and gmilen into a passage, with a range of
shops on each side, called Borlington Arcade, making a covered communication for
foot passengers from Piccadilly to Burlington Qardens, Cork-street^ and New Bond-
street. This Arcade was built by Samuel Ware, in 1819. It consists of a double row
of shops, with apartments over them, a roof of skylights, and a triple arch at each end ;
it 18 about 210 yards long, and the shops, seventy-two in number, produce to the noble
family of Cavendish 4000Z. a year ; though the property, by sub-letting and otherwise,
is stated to yield double that amount a year.
ExsTEB CHA27aE (the second building of the name, but on a different site from the
first) was an Arcade built in 1844, on the estate of the Marquis of Exeter, and ran ob-
liquely frx>m Catherine-street to Wellington-street North, Strand. It was designed by
Sydney Smirke; and consisted of a polygonal compartment at each extremity, the in-
termediate passage being coved and groined, and lighted from above ; it contained
ten neat shops with dwellings over. The cove, fiisda, piers, &c, had polychromic ara-
besque decorations : at each entrance to the Arcade was an imitative bronze gate ; and
the frx>nts in Catherine-street and Wellington-street, were of fine red brick, with stone
dressings, in the Jacobean style. The " Change,'* however, proved unprofitable ; it
was taken down in 1868, and upon its site was erected a portion of the Strand Muuc
Hall, externally and intonally, of elaborate dengn.
LowTHSB Abcadb (named from Lord Lowther, Chief Commisnoner of the Woods
and Forests when it was built) leads from the triangle of the West Strand to Adelaide-
street, north of St. Martin's Church. It was demgned by Witherden Young, and far
surpasses the Burlington Arcade in architectural character : the ceiling vista of small
pendentive domes is very beautiful, and the caductt in the angles are weQ executed.
The length is 245 feet, breadth 20 feet, and height 85 feet. The sides consist of
twenty-five dwellings and shops, principally kept by dealers in foreign goods, who, by
mutual consent, hold in the avenue a sort of fur for (German and French toys, cheap
glass and jewellery, &c. At the north end of the Arcade is the Adelaide Ghdlery,
where Mr. Jacob Perkins exhibited his Steam Gun. A living electrical eel was shown
here from August, 1838, to March 14^ 1843, when it died ; and in 1882 was formed
here a Society for the Exhibition of Models of Inventions, ice The rooms were sub-
sequently let for concerts, dancing, and exhibitions.
The Abcads ov Coyekt Qabdsv, miscalled piaxzch was designed about 1631 for
Francis, Earl of Bedford, but only the north and east sides were built, and half of the
latter was destroyed by fire about the middle of the last century. The northern was
called the Qreat Piazza, the eastern the Little Kazza : Inigo Jonea^ the architect,
probably took his idea from an Italian city, Bologna, for instance. " The proportions of
the arcades and piers, crossed with elliptical and semicircular arches into gproins, are ex-
quisitely beautiful, and are masterpieces of architecture." (Elmes,) The elevation was
originally built with stone pilasters on red brick, which have for many years been
covered with compo and white paint ; at the north-east comer two arcades and piers
have been removed for the intrusion of the Covent Garden Floral Hall. Had Inigo
Jones's picturesque square been completed, its entirety would probably have been
preserved.
ABCEES.
LONDON differs essentially from many other European capitals in the paucity
of its Arches, or ornamental gateways. It has only three triumphal Arches,
whereas Paris, not half the size of our metropolis, has four magnificent Arches> and
the principal entrances are graced with trophied gateways and storied columns. The
P^irisian Arc de VEtoile is without exception the most gigantic work of its kind either
in ancient or modem times ; within its centre arch would stand eight such structures
as Temple Bar, that is, four in depth, and as many above them. The Paris Arch cost
417,666/.
AECHE8. 21
Ths Gbzen Pabk Aboh, at Hyde Pftrk Corner, was built by Decimos Barton in
1828. It 18 Corintldan, and each face has six fluted pilasters, with two fluted columns
ibnking the single archway, raised upon a lofty stylobate, and supporting a richly
decorated entablature, in which are sculptured alternately G. R. IV. and the imperial
crown, within wreaths of laurel. The soffite of the arch is sculptured in sunk panels.
Tbegatee^ by Bramah, are of manve iron scroU-work, bronzed, with the royal arms in
a circular centre. Within the pier of the arch are the porter's apartments, and stairs
ascending to the platform, wher^ upon a vast slab, laid upon a brick arch, the colossal
eqaestrian statue of the Duke of Wellington was placed, September 30, 1846. The
height of the arch* its attic, and platform is about 90 feet ; of the statue, 30 feet. (See
Statum.)
Opponte the abore Arch is the elegant entrance to Hyde Park, by three carriage
archways and sides, in a Screen of fluted Ionic columns, of 107 feet frontage, designed
and built by Decimns Burton, in 1828. The blocking of the central archway has a
beautiful fiieze (Grecian naval and military triumphal processions), designed by the
Km of Mr. Henning, known for his successAil models of the Elgin marbles. The gates^
by Bramah, are a beautiful arrangement of the Grecian honeysuckle in bronzed iron;
the hanging, by rings of gun metal, is very ingenious.
Altogether, these two Park entrances, with St. George's Hospital north, and the
Duke of Wdlington's palatial mansion south, form one of the finest architectural
groups in the metropolis, and its most embellished entrance. Sir John Soane, how-
ever, proposed two triumphal arches, connected by a colonnade and arches, stretching
acrois the main road — a design of superb g^randeur.
The third Arch was one originally deogned and constructed in St. James's Park for
the especial emtranoe of the Sovereign and the Boyal Family to Buckingham Palace.
In 1851 it wras removed to Cumberland Gate, Hyde Park Comer. This was the
largest work of mere ornament ever attempted in Great Britain. It was adapted by
Nash from the Arch of Constantine, at Borne; but it is by no means so richly em-
bellished. The sculpture is omitted in the attic, and in place of the reversed trusses
abore the oolamns were to have been figures of Dacian warriors, and panels of sculpture
interremng. The fieucia was to have been more highly enriched ; the attic carried
^considerably higher, and surmounted with an equestrian statue of George the Fourth,
flanked with groups of military trophies, vases at the angles, &c The Arch has a centre
and two nde openings ; the sculpture is confined to a pair of figures, and a key>stone
on eadi iace of the central archway ; with panels above the side openings and wreaths
at the end. These sculptures are by Flaxman, Westmacott, and Kossi. The statue of
George 'the Fourth was executed by Chantrey for 9000 guineas ; it was not placed
upon the Arch at the Palace, but at the north-east angle of Trafalgar-square. Upon
the Areh was hoisted the Bqyal Standard to denote the presence of the Sovereign. The
central entrance-gates were designed and cast by Samuel Parker, of Argyll-street j
they are the largest and most superb in Europe, and cost 3000 guineas. They are of a
beautiful alloy, the base refined copper, and are bronzed : design, scroll-work with nx
drcnlar openings, two filled with St. George and the Dragon, two with G. R., and
above, two lions paeeant-gardant ; height to the top of Arch, 21 feet ; width, 15 feet ;
extreme thickness, 8 inches; weight, 5 tons and 6 cwt. Although cast, their enriched
foliage and scroll-work have the elaborate finish of fine chasing. They terminate at the
•pringing of the Arch ; but Mr. Parker had designed and cast for the semicircular
heading a rich fHoze and the royal arms in a cirde, flanked by state crowns. This
portion, however, was Irreparably broken in removal from the foundry. The face of
the Arch is Carrara marble, altogether unfitted for the sooty atmosphere of London.
When it was resolved to enlarge Buckingham Palace by the erection of the present
front towards the Park, the Arch could not be made to form port of the design, and it
vas removed and rebuilt at Hyde Park Comer, at the cost of 4,3402. The original cost
of the Ai«h was 76,000/.
Of the two arches, St. JoHifa Gatx and Templb Bab, separate histories will be
^en.
22 CURIOSITIES OF LONDON.
ARGYLL BOOMS.
THIS place was originally a largfe bouse pnTchased by Col. Greville, of sporting
notoriety, and converted into a place of public entertainment, wbere balls, concerts,
masqaerades, and amateur plays were mucb patronized by the haui ton. In 1818. tbe
Kooms were rebuilt in handsome style, by Nash, at the north corner of Little Argyll-
street, Regent-street, and contained a splendid suite for the above purposes : they were
burnt down in February, 1830, when Mr. Braithwaite first publicly applied steam-
power to the working of a fire-engine ; it required eighteen minutes to nuse the water
in the boiler to 212°, when the engine threw up froni thirty to forty tons of water per
hour to a height of ninety feet. The premises were rebuilt, but not upon the same
scale as heretofore.
At the Argyll Rooms, June 9, 1829, Signer Yellnti, the contralto singer, gave a
concert. In the same year, M. Chabert, " the Fire-King," exhibited here his power of
resisting the effects of poisons, and withstanding extreme heat. He swallowed 40
grains of phosphorus, sipped oil at 833° with impunity, and rubbed a red-hot fire-
shovel over his tongue, hair, and face unharmed. Sept. 28, on a challenge of 502.,
Chabert repeated these feats, and won tbe wager ; he next swallowed a piece of burn-
ing torch ; and then, dressed in coarse woollen, entered an oven heated to 880^, sang a
song, and cooked two dishes of beef-steak ! Still, the performances were suspected,
and in fact proved, to be a chemical juggle.
AET-UmON OF LONDON,
A SOCIETY established 1836, and incorporated by 9th and 10th Viet, c. 48, "to
aid in extending the love of the Arts of Design within the United Kingdom, and
to give enoouragement to artists beyond that afforded by the patronage of individuals."
The annual subscription is one guinea, which entitles the subscriber to one chance
for a prize in the scheme, ranging from lOL to 2001., to be selected from one of
the London exhibitions of the year. There are also prize medals, bronze casts,
porcelain statuettes, works in cast-iron; line engravings, outlines, and mezzotints;
lithograplis and chromo-lithographs ; etchings and photographs and wood engravings ;
and bas-reliefs in fictile ivory ; and every subscriber is entitled to a print or prints.
The Art-Union has, unquestionably, fostered a taste for art; and the increased
means of ait-education has benefited the country in increased exports of articles of
taste, — such as plate, silk manufactures, pottery, and paper-hangings.
The demand in England at this time for pictures is very great, and the prices paid for the works of
oar best poipters are larger than has ever been the case before. Money jadidoadv spent in this woy
is well invested. The first purchaser of " The Strawberry Girl * gave Uejuolds fifty guineas for it ;
the last, the Marquis of Hertford, was delighted in obtaining it for 2100 guineas.— .^r< Umo» Report,
Few who assisted at our first meeting, in the little gallery in Regent-street, now the Gallery of Illus-
tration, were sanguine enough to expect a course of such continuing success as that through which the
institution has run ; or ventured to prognosticate that it would by this time have raised (mainly from
the classes at that date spending little on art), and would have distributed m aid of art and artists, the
sum of 324fl00l.i producing during that period S6 engravings of hirh class, 16 volumes of illustrative
outlines, etchings, and wood-engravings ; 16 bronzes, 12 statues ana statuettes, with figures and vases
la iron, and a series of medals commemorative of British artists— to say nothing of the main operation
of the Association, the distribution throughout the United Kingdom and the Colonies, of some thousands
of pictures by native modem artists, and some hundreds of thousands of impressions from
the engravings referred to. Such, however, has been the ease, notwithstanding the difficult with which
the subscripuons for the first year were made to mount to 489^ For the present rear the sum of
11,743/. has been subscribed. The subscriptions for the year amount to the sum of i3,64S^, showing
an Increase of 1941/. on last year.— Report, 1866.
Mr. Noel Paton's Illustrations of "The Andent Mariner," given in 1864, with the
text, was then allowed to be the greatest work offered to the subscribers. The
Society has about 600 honorary secretaries in the provinces, in the British Colonics, in
America, &c., including Canton ; it has expended about 150,000/. in the purdiase and
production of works of art; and in one morning the honorary secretaries paid to artists
of the metropolis no less than 10,000/. The drawing of the prizes is usually held in
ARTESIAN WELLS. 23
one of the metropolitan theatres, in April, and the subscribers are admitted by
tickets : office, 445> West Strand.
ARTESIAN WELLS*
HAVE been snnk or bored in varioos parts of the metropolis, the London Basin
being thought well adapted for them, there being on it a thick lining of sand,
and a de^ bed of " London blue day," on boring which, into the chalk formation, the
water rises to yarions heights : hence it was thought that an abundant and unfailing
supply might be obtained. The first boring was made at Tottenham, Middlesex. To
test the practicability of this method of procuring water in sufficient quantity for the
use of the metropolis, the New Bivec Company ssjik a vast well at the foot of their
reserroir in the Hampstead-road : the excavation was steined with brick, 12ft. 6 in. in
diameter, and then reduced and continued with iron cylinders (like those of a tele-
scope), to 240 feet. The expense was 12,412/. The operations, which occupied three
years, were detailed by Mr. Mylne^ engineer of the company, to the Institution of
Cml Engineers, 1839.
It 18 remarkable that chalk should have been reached at so small a depth as in the
Hampetead-road. Water was found at 170 feet, but so mixed with sand as not to be
easily separable, whidi is the chief difficulty in forming wells in the London clay ;
henoe the workmen passed through the quicksand with the cylinders at an expense dt
4000/., independent of the 8000/. which the well coat, hoping to obtain water in the
chalk below ; but this was found too inconmiderable for the purpose.
Arteaan Wells are mostly formed by boring and driving pipes, varying from 6 to
10 inches or more in diameter ; but many of these only enter the sand immediately
below the day, instead of obtaining the supply of water from the dialk. Thus, an
Artenan Well snnk in Covent Garden, for more than fourteen years failed to supply
the ordinary wants of the market ; but having been deepened and carried ninety feet
into the chalk, it yidded an abundant supply, and is constantly worked, without mate-
rially reducing the levd of the water, or lowering it in neighbouring wells, as in cases
where the chalk is not reached. It has been long known that the well in the Thames-
street Brewery, late Calvert's, 240 feet, and Barday's well, 367 feet, at the Southwark
Brewery, afEect each other so much — even though the Thames lies between them— that
the two firms agreed not to pump at the same time.
The following are the depths of a few of the Wells bored in London ; Berkelej-sqosre, 320 feet; Menx
and Ca'e fireweiy, 435 feet; Norwood, Middlesex, 414 feet, ~ "
lOndon ; lierKeiej-sqasre, 9»i reec; uenx
nnsuccesBftil at thia depth ; West India
feet» coflt ie67{.: Barclay and Perkins*
eost BOOINL ; PentonvUle Prieon, 370 feet, cost leoof. ; St. Mazy Woolnoth, Lombard-street, 268 feet, cost
aooi.; Wbitbread and Co/e Brewery, 100 feet; Combe and Co.'s Brewery, 190 feet; Covent-garden
Market, 340 feet; PlocadiUy (St. James's Chnrch), 240 feet ; Elliott's Brewery, 390 feet; SoyaTMhit.
Tower-hill, 400 feet. At Kentish Town, in 1860. an Artesian Well was abandoned when the borings had
leaehed 1308 feet, no water haTing been met wiui, though a copious supply had been predicted from the
lower greensands natoralW expe<ned to occur immediately below the gaolt; but the gault wag found to
be tocoeeded by 179 feet of a series of red clays, with intercalated sandstones and grit»— a fact which set
geologists ptmaexing. The two WoUs for the Government Water-works, Tralalgar-square. by C. E.
Amos, C.E., were sank in 18H 300 feet and 400 feet deep ; cost nearly 80002. ; these works will be
Airther described. At Kensington there has been suak and bored, fbr the supply of the Horticultural
Gardens, a well 401 feet deep, and 5 feet clear in diameter, the bore-hole being 201 feet deep from the
bottom of the well ; water rises 73 feet hi the shaft, the pumps lifting 144^000 gallons daily, of excellent
chalk spring-water.
The question of supply from these wells is beset with so many difficulties, the altera-
tions in the London strata being so gpreat, that no one experienced in wells will venture
to infer from one place what will occur in another.
Dr. Buckland, the eminent geologist, one of the first to show the fallacy, states that
although there are from 250 to 300 so-called Artesian Wells in the metropolis, there is
not one real Arietian Well within three miles of St. Paul's : such being a well that is
* The tenn Artesian has been applied flrom the supposed fiict of these wells having been originally
constroeted fai the county of Artois (the aneient Arieaium), in the north of France. They were, how-
erer. rather found than originated In Artois, for they had long existed in Italv and a few other parts of
Europe, and appear to have been common generally in the East at a very early period.
24 CUBIOSITIJES OF LONDON.
always overflowing, either from its natural source or from an artificial tabe : and when
the overflowing ceasen, it b no longer an Artesian Well. The weUs which are now
made by boring through the London day are merely common wells. It has been said
that a supply of water, if bored for, will rise of its own accord ; but the water obtained
for the fountiuns in Trafalgar-square does not rise within forty feet of the surface, and
IS pumped up by means of a steam-engine — the same water over and over again. Dr.
Buckland maintains that the supply of water formerly obtained from the so-called
Artesian Wells in London has been greatly diminished by the sinking of new wells; of
the more than 250 wells^ one-half have broken down, and others are only kept in
action at an enormous expense. The average depth at which water can be obtained
from these defective wells is 60 feet below the Trinity House water-mark. In 1856, it
was stated that the level of the London wells, since 1822, had sunk fifty feet; and fiJIa
at the rate of 18 or 24 inches in a year. The rapid increase in the number of these
wells, of late years, has been attended with so constant a reduction of the quantity of
w^ater they respectively furnish, that it is now generally considered that any additional
supply for public purposes cannot be expected from this source^ as it seems already
overtaxed by private work.
Mr. Prestwich, jun., F.G.S., in his GeologiccU Inquiry , considers " it would be diflS-
cult to account for the g^erally unfavourable opinion entertained r^arding Artesian
Wells as a means of pubUc supply, were it not that the annually decreasing yield of
water frt>m the tertiary sands and the chalk beneath London has produced an im-
pression of uncertainty as to all such sources of supply ; which, with the constantly
increasing expense caused by the depth from which the water has to be pumped, and
the proportion of saline ing^dients being so much greater in them than in the river
waters, have been taken as sufficient gpx>unds of objection. But it is to be observed, in
explanation of the diminished supply from the present source, that the tertiary sands
are of very limited dimensions ; that the chalk is not a freely permeable dcpomt; and
that the peculiarities of the saline ingpredients depend upon the chemical composition of
these formations. All these causes, however, are local, and can by no means be con-
sidered as g^unds of objection against the system of Artesian Wells generally." Mr.
Prestwich suggests a fresh system of Artesian Wells, especially as none have as yet
been carried through the ehaUc ; though it is shown that the conditions in this country
are more fiivourable than in France.
ARTILLERY COJfFANT.
THIS ancient body of Gvic Volunteers, the oldest armed force in the kingdom,
originated in the Guild of St. George, in the reign of Edward I. They were also
known as the Archers of Finsbury, and were incorporated by Henry YIII., whose
signature is on the g^eat book of the Company. We next trace it as the old City
Trained Qand, raised, or rather augmented in 1585, at the period of the menaced
Popish invasion. Within two years there were enrolled nearly 300 merchants and
others, " very sufficient and skilful to train and teach common soldiers the management
of their pieces, pikes, and halberds; to march, countermarch, and ring. Some of
them, in the dangerous year of 1588, had charge of men in the gpreat camp at Tilbury,
and were generally called Captains of the Artillery Garden, the place where they
exercised'' (Stow, ^ Howell) in " the Old Artillery Ground," demised to them out of
the ancient manor of Finsbury, or Fensbury, originally a field called Tassel (or Teasel^
from teasels being grown here for cloth'Workers) Close ; then let for archery practice ;
and next enclosed with a wall for the Gimners of the Tower to exercise in. Aftdr
1 588, the City Artillery neglected their discipline; but in 1610 they formed anew, and
in a few years numbered nearly 6000. In 1622, they removed to a larger ground with-
out Moorgate, the present Artillery ground, west of Finsbury-square.
In the Civil War, the Company marched with Essex to raise the siege of Gloucester,
which was the distinguishing crisis of the contest ; and in the second battle of Newbury
their steady valour repulsed the fiercest charges of Rupert's cavalry, and proved the
main safeguard of the Parliamentary Army. The reluctant testimony of Clarendon to
these " Londoners" is very remarkable :-^
ABTILLERY COMPANY. 25
** The London Tnined Bands and AaziUary Beffiments (of whose inexperience of danger, or any kind
of aerTiice, by the easy practice of their postures in the Artillery Garden, men held till then, too cheap
in estimatiozO beliATed tbemaelTes to wonder, and were in troth the preservation of that army that day,
ibr they stood aa a bnlwark and rampire to defend the rest ; and when their wings of horse were
order, and dexteri^ in the nae of their arms, which hath been so much neglected."--^£w^. Rebellion,
edit. 18381 !▼. 236.
Hoiwell, in bis ZondonopoUs, 1657, tells us that London had then '* 12,000 Trained
Band Citizens perpetnally in rew^ness, excellently armed ;" and in the unlucky wars
vrith the Long ParUament, the London firelocks did the King most mischief.
Cromwell knew the value of this force, and for some years its strength was 18,000 foot
and 600 hone. They were, however, disbanded at the Restoration, but continued their
erolatioDs, the King and the Duke of York becoming members, and dining in pubUo
with the new Company. When Queen Anne went to St. Paul's, the City Train Bands
lined the streets fh)m Temple Bar to the Cathedral. The last time they were in active
service was at the riots of 1780, when they aided in saving the Bank of England from
the pOlage of the rioters.
The Artillery Company have always been the only military body in the kingdom
which hears arms under the direct authority of the reigning Sovereign, and which is
wholly free from the control of Parliament. From time immemorial the post of
Captain-Gteneral and Colonel, which is the andent title of the officer in supreme com-
numd of the corps, has been held, sometimes by the reigning Sovereign, by a Prince
Consort^ and by a Ptinoe of Wales or heir-apparent of the throne. Its roll of Captaine-
Genend and Colonels includes the names of Charles I., James II., the Prince of Orangey
Prince George of Denmark, Qeorge I. (who gave the Company 500Z.), George II.,
Geoo^ IV., William IV., the Duke of Sussex, and Albert, Prince Consort, who was
soGoeeded l^ the Prince of Wales : on its muster-roll are the names of Prince Rupert^
the Dake of Buckingham, General Monk, and the Duke of Monmouth.
Upon royal visits to the C^ty, the Artillery Company attend as a guard of honour to
the Sovereign. In cases of apprehended civil disturbance the Con^wny muster at their
bead-quarters, the Artillery Ground, Finsbury, granted to them in trust, in 1641, at the
rifnt of 6». Sd. per annum. This ground, with the houses adjoining, realizes to the
Company a yearly income of 2000/., which is expended for the benefit of the members,
and in payment of managerial officers. Strype describes the ground as "the third
great field from Moorgate, next the Six Windmills." Here is the spacious Armoury
Uooae, finished in 1735 1 the collection of arms, &c., includes some fine pieces of
ordnance, among which is a pur of handsome brass field-pieces, presented by Sir
William Curtis, Bart., Prerident ; besides portions of the ancient uniforms and arms of
the eorps^ as caps and helmets, pikes and banners. A new set of colours was formally
presented to the regiment^ in 1864^ by the Princess of Wales.
Th« corps comprises six companies of Infantry, besides ArtiUeiy, Grenadiers,
Light Infimtry, and Yagers. They exercise on occasional field-days in the Artillery
Grooody and meet for rifie practice in the vicinity of the metropolis, the prize
bong a large gold medal. Besides the Armoury, here is a workshop for cleaning
guns, a long shooting gallery, &c. Each member, for a subscription, has the use of
arms and aoooutrements from the Company's stores, but finds his uniform according
to regulations.
The musters and marchings of the City Trained Band have not escaped the whipping
of dramatists and humorists. Fletcher ridicules them in the Knu^hi of the Burning
Pestle : as does Steele in the Taller, more espedally in No. 41, with the Company's
way of giving out orders for " an exercise of arms," when the greatest achievements
were happily performed near Grub-street, where a faithful historian, being eye-witness
of then wonders, should transmit them to posterity, &c. The Company were then
(1709) mercalessly quizzed, and we may judge of the reason from Hatton's observation,
in 1706:— "They do by prescription march over all the ground from the Artillery
Oronnd to Islington, and Sir George Whitmore's at Hoxton, breaking down gates, ^c,
tfait obstmcted them in such marches." Hatton tells of thdr former splendid public
feaitfl^ when foor of the nobility and as many citizens were stewards, and to which the
26 CUBIOSITLES OF LONDON.
principal nobility and foreign minirten were invited. The Company's annorial ensigns
are very charactenstic :—
The Shield and Crois of St Oeorge, charged with a lion of England ; on a chief azure, a portcullis
Ihralshed or ; between two ostrich feathers, argent. Crest, a dexter-arm armed, holding a leading staff, '
or, fVingod gules. Supporters, two militaiy men equipped according to the laws of the Militia, the
dexter with a pike, the sinister with a musket proper. Motto— Arma Pads Fulcra.
The Barracks in ArtiUery-plaoe, doagned by Jennings, in the style of the early
castellated numsion, and erected of stone in 1857, are the head-quarters of the London
Militia.
BALLOON ASCENTS.
THE following are the more memorable Balloon Ascents made from the metropolis
since the introduction of aerostation into England. Tn most cases the aeronauts
were accompanied by friends, or persons who paid for the trip various sums.
Nov. 25, 1783, the first Balloon (filled with hydrogen) launched in England, from
the Artillery Ground, Finsbury, by Count Zambeocari. The Balloon was found 4.8
miles from London, near PetwOTtb.
Sept. 15, 1784, Lunardi ascended from the Artillery Ghround, Moorfields ; being the
first voyage made in England ; he was accompanied by a cat, a dog, and a pigeon.
March 23, 1785, Admiral Sir Edward Vernon, accompanied by Count ZambeocariL
June 29, 1785, ascent of Mrs. Sage, the first Englishwoman aeronaut.
July 5, 1802, M. Gamerin made his second ascent in England, from Lord's Cricket
Ground. The same year he ascended three times from Banelagh Gardens; and
descended successfully from a Balloon by a Parachute, near the Small-pox Hospital, St.
Pancras.
1811, James Sadler, ascended from Hackney ; his two sons, John and Windham, wepe
also aeronauts ; the latter killed, Sept. 29, 1824, by fidling from a Balloon.
July 19, 1821, Mr. Charles Green firat ascended in a Balloon inflated with coal gas,
substituted for hydrogen, on the coronation day of George IV. Cost of inflation, from
25/. to 50/. : this wa^ Mr. Green's first atrial voyage. Up to May, 1850, he had made
142 ascents from London only. Ten persons named Green have ascended in Balloons.*
Sept. 11, 1823, Mr. Graham ascended from White Conduit House.
May 25, 1824, Lieutenant Harris, R.N., ascended from the Eagle Tavern, City
Boad, with Miss Stocks ; the former killed by the too rapid descent of the Balloon.
July, 1838, Mr. Graham ascended from Hungerford Market; day of opening. Ono
of Mr. Graham's companions, on this occasion, shortly after made a second ascent,
which caused a derangement of intellect, from which he never entirely recovered.
Sept. 17, 1835, Mr. Green ascended from Vauxhall Gardens, and remained up during
the whole of the night.
August 22, 1836, the Duke of Brunswick ascended.
Sept. 9, 1836, Mr. Chreen's first ascent in his great VauzhaU Balloon.
Nov. 7, 1836, Mr. Green, Mr. Monck Mason, and Mr. Holland ascended in the great
Vauxhidl Balloon, and descended, in eighteen hours, at Weilburg, in Nassau. Of this
ascent, Mr. Mason published a detailed account.
July 24, 1837, Mr. Green ascended from Vauxhall Gardens, in his great Balloon,
with Mr. Cocking in a parachute, in which the latter wns killed in descending.
May 24^ 1838, unsuccessful attempt to ascend with a large Montgolficr Balloon from
the Surrey Zoolc^ical Gardens. The Balloon was destroyed by the spcctatora ; it was
the height of the York Column, and half the circumference of the dome of St. Paul's,
and would contain, when fully infiated, 170,000 cubic feet of air.
Sept. 10, 1838, Mr. Green and Mr. Rush ascended fit)m Vauxhall Gardens in the
Nassau Balloon, and descended at Lewes, Sussex ; having reached the then greatest
altitude ever attained — 27,146 feet, or 5 miles 746 feet.
July 17, 1840, the Vauxhall, or great Nassau Balloon, sold to Mr. Green for 500/. ;
in 1836 it cost 2100/.
August 19, 1844, perilous night ascent with Mr. Gypson's Balloon from Vauxhall
* Mr. Green has made, altofrether, a larger number of ascents than any other aeronaut; they exceed
fiOO. Of this veteran a fine portrait (private ph&te) has been ens^ved.
BA2^ OF ENGLAND. 27
Gardein, with fireworks. Mr. Albert Smith and Mr. Coxwell aooomponied the a6ro-
naot At 7000 feet high the Balloon bursty hot, by Mr. Coxwell cutting Bome lines,
tlic BaUoon assamed a parachute form, and descended safely.
Aug. 7, 1850» Mrs. Graham's Balloon destroyed by fire, after her descent, near
Edmonton.
Sept. 7, 1854^ ascent of Mr. Coiwell's War Balloon, from the Surrey Zoological
Gardens, with tel<:g^phic signals.
Jnoe 15, 1857, night royage from Woolwich to Tavistock, 250 miles, mode by Mr.
CoxveU, in fire hours.
July 17, 1862, Mr. Glaisher and Mr. Coxwell first ascended in a large BaUoon made
bgr the latter fisr the experiments of the British Association : ascent from Wolver-
lampton ; elevation attained, 26,177 feet above the sea-level.
Sept. 5, 1862, the highest and most memorable ascent on record. Mr. Glaisher and
Vr. Coxwell attained an elevation of 37,000 feet, or 7 miles. Mr. Glaisher became
inttDBble; and Mr. Coxwell, his hands being frozen, had to pull the valve-cord with
hisnioath, and thus escaped death.
Jsn. 12, 1864, Mr. Glaisher's seventeenth scientific ascent in Mr. CoxweU's large
Balloon; the only ascent made in England during the month of Januaiy.
Ang. 3^ 1864^ M. Godard ascended from Cremome Gkurdens, in his huge Montgolfier
BaUooD, and made a perilous descent at Walthamstow.
Mr. Ghusiher, by his scientific ascents, has proved that the Balloon docs afibrd a
means of solving with advantage many delicate questions in physics ; and the Com-
mittee of the British Association report that Science and the Association owe a debt of
gratitode to Mr. Glaisher for the ability, perseverance, and courage with which he has
Tohmtarily undertaken the hazardous labour of recording meteorological phenomena
in the several ascents. The following survey of London, Oct. 9, 1863, nxteenth ascent,
as the Balloon passed over London Bridge, at the height of 7000 feet, in an unusually
dear atmosphere, is picturesquely descriptive.
*The seene aroond,*' saTi Mr. Ghdsber, " was probably one that cannot be equalled in the world at
Qoe glance — the homes or 3,000,000 of people were seen, and so distinotly that every large boilding at
ever pert was easily dlstlnffnistaed ; while those ahnoet under us— viz., the Bank and Newgate, the
Docks and sorrounmng buildings, fto., in such detail that their inner courts were visible, and their
KRRisd-plaiu ooold have been dnwn. Cannon-street was easily traced; but it was difficult to believe
•t first slgbt that small building to be St. Paul's. Looking onward, Oxford-street was visible; the
Parks, the Houses of PaTliament» and MiUbonk Prison, with its radlatmg lines from Uie centr^^t once
ittractcd notioe. In fhet, the whole of London was visible^ and some parts of it very clearly. Then all
srooDd there were lines of detached villas, imbedded as it were in shrubs ; and beyond, the country, like
a garden, with its flields well marked, but becoming smaller and smaller as the eye wandered fiirther
tmmj.
"Again looking down, there was the Thames, without the slightest mitt, winding throughout its
vlicle length, with innumerable ships, apparently verr long and narrow, and steamb<».ts like moving
tors. Gravesend was visible, as were the month of the Thames and the coast leading on to Norfolk.
Tbe KKithcm boundary of the mouth of the Thames was not quite so dear, but the sea beyond was
duoemible for many miles ; and when higher up I looked for tiie coast of France, but I could not see it.
ffn withdrawing the eye it was arrested by the garden-like appearance of the county of Kent, till again
Losidon claimeo attention. Smoke, thin and blue, was curling above it and slowly moving away in
bcantiital curves, firom all but south of the Thames : here the smoke was less blue and became apparently
aaore dense, till the cauM was evident, it being mixed with mist rising from the ground, the southern
Iktuitm of which were bounded by an even line, doubtless indicating the meeting of the subsoils of gravel
mad. clay.
**The whole acene was surmounted bv a canopy of blue, the aky being quite clear and flree firom cloud
everfwhere except ne»r the horizon, where a circular band of cumuli and strata cloudy, extending all
rxrazid, formed a fitting boundaiy for such a scene. The son was seen setting, but was not itself viable,
czeept a small part seen through a break fai a dark stratus doud— like an eve overseeing all. Sunset, as
•een from the earth, is described as fine, the air being dear and shadows sharply defined. As we rose
the gfAdea hues decreased in intensity and rlchncsa both right and left of the place of the sun ; but their
ciGecCa extended to fully one-fourth part of the circle, where rose-coloured clouds limited the scene.
T1m» remainder of the eircle was completed partly by pure white cumulus of very rounded and symme-
trical tanoM. I have seen London firom above by night, and I have seen it by day when four miles high,
bat nothing coold exceed the view on this occasion at the height of one mUe, varying to one mile and
Uunee-qmrtera, with a dear atmosphere. The roa/ of London even at the greatest height, was one
t»ing rich and deep sound, and added impressive interest to the general circumstancea in which we
phiced."
I
BANK OF ENGLAND, THE,
S an insulated assemhlage of huildings and courts, occupying three acres, minus nine or
ten yards, north of the Royal Eichange, Comhill ; bounded by Prinoe's-street, west ;
28 CUBI08ITIE8 OF LONDON.
Lothbury, north ; Bartholomew-lane^ east ; and Threadneedle-street^ south. Its exterior
meaBurements are 365 feet sonth, 410 feet north, 245 feet east> and 440 feet west.
Within this area are nine open courts; a spacious rotunda, numerous public offices,
court and committee-rooms, an armoury, engraving and printing<K>ffioe8> a library, and
apartments for officers, servants, &c.
The Bank, " the greatest monetary establishment in the world,*' was projected in
1691, by Mr. William Paterson, a Scotsman; was established by a company of Whig
merchants, and incorporated by William 111., July 27, 1694, Paterson being placed on
the list of Directors for this year only ; the then capital, 1,200,0002., being lent to
Grovemment. The first chest used was somewhat larger than a seaman's.
The first Governor was Sir John Houblon, whose house and garden were on part of
the site of the present Bank ; and the first Deputy-Governor was Michael Godfrej,
who^ July 17, 1695, was shot at the nege of Namur, while attending King William
with a communication relating to the Bank affiurs.
The Bank commenced busmess at Mercers' Hall, and next removed to Grocers' Hall,
then in the Poultry ; at this time the secretaries and clerks numbered but 54, and
their united salaries amounted to 43502. In 1734 they removed to the jirenuBes
built for the Bank, the earliest portion of which part is still remaining — ^the back of
the Threadneedle-street front, towards the court — was designed by an architect named
Sampson. To this building Sir Bobert Taylor* added two wings of columns, with
projections surmounted by pecUments, and other parts. On Jan. 1, 1785, was set
up the marble statue of William III., amid the firing of three volleys, by the
servants of the establishment, Cheere, sculptor, in the Pay Hall, 79 feet by 40 feet,
which, in the words of Baron Dupin, would *' startle the administration of a French
bureau, with all its inaccesabilities."
In 1757, the Bank premises were small, and surrounded by St. Christopher-le-Stocks
Church (since pulled down), three taverns, and several private houses. Between 1766
and 1786 east and west wings were added by Taylor : some of Ins work is to be seen in
the architecture of the garden court. Upon Sir Bobert Taylor's death, in 1788, Bir.
John Soane was appointed Architect to the Bank ; and, without any interruption to
the business, he completed the present Bank of brick and Portland stone, of incom-
bustible materials, insulated, one-storied, and without external windows. The general
architecture is Corinthian, firom the Temple of the Sibyl at 'Hvoli, of which the south-
west angle exhibits a fac-rimile portion. The Lothbury court is fine; and the. chief
Cashier's ofiice is from the Temple of the Sun and Moon at Bome. The embelliah-
ments throughout are very beautifiil ; and the whole well planned for business — high
architectural merit. The Botiuda has a dome 57 feet diameter ; and the Bank Parlour,
where the Governor and Company meet, is a noble room by Tayloc Here the Divi-
dends are declared ; and here the Directors are baited half-yearly by every Proprietor
who has had 5002. Bank-stock in his possession for six months. In the Parlour lobby
is a portrait of Daniel Race, who was in the Bank service for more than half a century,
and thus amassed upwards of 200,0002. In the ante-chamber to the Governor's room
are fine busts of Pitt and Fox, by JNollekens. The ante-room to the Discount Office is
adapted from Adrian's Villa at Tivoli. The private Drawing Office, designed in 1836,
by Cockerell (Soane's successor), is original aiid scenic ; and the Drawing Office, com-
pleted by the same architect in 1849, is 138 feet 6 inches long, and lit by four large
circular lanterns. In 1850, the Comhill front was heightened by an attic ; and a large
room fitted up as a Library for the clerks.
The entrance to the Bullion Yard b copied from Constantino's Arch at Rome, and
has allegories of the Thames and Ganges, by T. Banks, B.A. The Bullion Office, on
the northern side of the Bank, consists of a public chamber and two vaults— one for
the public deposit of bullion, free of charge,* unless weighed ; the other for the private
stock of the Bank. The duties are discharged by a Principal, Deputy-Principal, Clerk,
Assistant-Clerk, and porters. The public are on no account allowed to enter the
Bullion Vaults. Here the gold is kept in bars (each weighing 16 lbs. and worth about
* The late ProfeMor Cockerell, in hit earlier lectures, used to exhibit, aa a Bpedmen of clever arran^rc-
ment, a plan of the triangular block of buildinin, by Sir Uobert Taylor, that formerly stood between tho
Bank and the Mansion Uouae, where the Wellington Statue is now.
BANK OF ENGLAIW. 29
800/.), and the nlvcr in pigs and bars, and dollars in bags. The value of the Bank
bnllioa in May, 1850, was sixteen millions. This constitutes, with their securities, the
assets which the Bank possess against their liabilities, on account of circulation and
dei»ats : and the difference between the several amounts is called " the Rest," or
balanoe in favour of the Bank. For weighing, admirably-consfcracted machines are
used : the larger one, invented by Mr. Bate, for weighing silver in bars from 50 lbs. to
80 lbs. troy ; second, a balance, by Sir John Barton, for gold ; and a third, by Mr.
Bate, for dolbu^ to amounts not exceeding 72 lbs. 2 oz. troy. Gold is almost ex-
dnsvely obtained by the Bank in the bar form ; although no form of deposit would be
Tefbnd. A bar of gold is a smaU slab, weighing 16 lbs., and worth about 8002.
In the Wdghing Office, established in 1842, to detect light gold, is the ingenious
machine invented by Mr. William Cotton, then Deputy-Gk>vemor of the Bank. About
80 or 100 light and heavy sovereigns are placed indiscriminately in a round tube ; as
they descend on the machinery beneath, those which are light receive a slight touch,
which moves them into their proper receptacle ; and those which are of legitimate
weight pass into their appointed place. The light coins are then defaced by a
machine, 200 in a minute ; and by the weighing-machinery 35,000 may be weighed in
one day. There are six of these machines, which from 1844 to 1849 weighed upwards
of 48,000,000 pieces without any inaccuracy. The average amount of gold tendered
in one year is nine millions, of which more than a quarter is Ught, The silver is
pot up into bags, each of one hundred pounds value, and the gold into bags of a
thousand; and then these bagfuls of bullion are sent through a strongly-guarded
door, or rather window, into the Treasury, a dark gloomy apartment, fitted up with
iron presses^ and made secure with huge locks and bolts.
The Bank-note machinery, invented by the Oldhams, father and son, exerts, by
the steam-engine, the power formerly employed by the mechanic in pulling a note.
The Bank-notes are numbered on the dexter and sinister halves, each bearing the same
figures, by Bramah's machines : as soon as a note is printed, and the handle reversed
to take it out and put another in its place, a steel spring attached to the handle alters
the number to that which should follow.
The Clock in the roof is a marvel of mechanism, as it is connected with all the clocks
in the Stock offices : the hands of the several dials indicate precisely the same hour
and second, by means of connecting brass-rods (700 feet long, and weighing 6 cwt.),
and 200 wheels ; the principal weight being 350 lbs. •
Tlie Bank has passed through many perils : it has been attacked by rioters, its notes
have been at a heavy discount, it has been threatened with impeachment, and its credit
has been assailed by treachery. In 1696 (the great re-coinage) the Directors were
compelled to suspend the payment of their notes. They then increased their capital to
2,201,271^. The Charter has been renewed from 1697 to the present time.
The earliest panic, or run, was in 1707, upon the threatened invasion of the Pre-
tender. In the run of 1745, the Corporation was saved by their agents demanding
payment for notes in sixpences, and who, paying in the same, thus prevented the bond
Jide holders of notes presenting them. Another memorable run was on February 26,
1797, upon an ahum of invssion by the French, when the Privy Council Order and the
Bestriction Act prohibited the Bank from paying cash, except for sums under ^.
During the panic of 1825, from the evidence of Mr. Harman before Parliament, it
appears that the quantity of gold in the treasury, in December, was under 1,300,000/.
It has since transpired that there was not 100,0002., probably not 50,0002. ! The
Bank then issued one-pound notes, to protect its remaining treasure; which worked
wonders, though by sheer good luck : " because one box containing a quantity of one-
poond notes had been overlooked, and they were forthcoming at the lodcy moment."
Pmics have been prodocod Bometimei br eztraordinaxy means. In May. 1832, a " ran apon the Dank
af VjngimpA " «M prodoced bf the walls of London behig placarded with the emphatic words, ** To stop
the Doke, CO Ihr QcUd ;" advice which was followed, as soon as Riven, to a prodigioiu extent. The
Dqke of WeUfaiirton was then very onpopolar ; and on Monday, the 14th of May, It being currently
bdiered that the Dake hod formed a Cabinet, the pauio became miiversal, and the ran npon the Bank
of Em^laad for coin was so ineessontv that in a few hoars apwards of half a million was carried olT.
Mr. Doableday, in his Id/* qf Sir BaUrt Peel, states it to be well known that the above placards were
** the device of four gentlemen, two of whom were elected members of the reformed Parliament. Each
pat down tOl.: and the sum thns dabbed was expended in printing thousands of these terrible missives^
30 CURIOSITIES OF LONDON.
iTliich were eifferly eirculated, and were speedily leen upon every wall in London. The effect is hardly
to bo described. It was electric."
The Bank is the banker of the Grovernment ; for here are received the taxes»
the interest of the National Debt paid, the Exchequer buaness transacted, &c The
amount paid by the Grovernment to the Bank for the management of the National
Debt is at the rate of 3402. per million for the first 600,000,0002., and 3002. per
million for the remainder. This amonnU to about 260,0002. a year. " The Old Lady
of Threadneedle-street," applied to the Bank, is a political sobriquet now almost
forgotten.
The forgeries upon the Bank supply a melancholy chapter in its histoiy. The first
forger of a note was a Stafford linendraper, who, in 1758, was convicted and executed.
Through the forgeries of one person, Robert Aslett, the Bank lost 320,0002. ; and
by another, Fauntleroy, 360,0002. In 1862, there were forgeries to a large amount,
by paper expressly manufactured for the Bank, which had been stolen, for which four
persons suffered penal imprisonment.
The Committee of Treasury sit weekly, and is composed of all the Directors who
have passed the chair. The Accountant, the Secretary, and the Cashier reside within
the Bank ; and a certain number of Clerks sit up nightly to go the round of the build-
ing, in addition to the military guard.
The Bank possesses a very fine collection of ancient coins. Visitors are shown in the
old Note Office, paid notes for ten years; and some bank-notes for large amounts which
have passed between the Bank and the Government, including a single note for one
million sterling, kept in a frame.
Madox, who wrote the History of the Exchequer, was first Cashier; but more popu-
larly known was Abraham Newland, Chief-Cashier from 1778 to 1807» who had
slept twenty-five years within the Bank, without absenting himself a single night.
He signed every note : his name was long remembered in a popular song, " as one
that Lb wrote upon every bank>note," to forge which, in street slang, was to "sham
Abraham."
In 1852 was placed in the Garden Court a fountain, constructed by the then Go-
vernor, Mr. Thomas Hankey. The water is thrown by a single jet, 80 feet high,
amongst the branches of two of the finest lime-trees in London, and is part of the Bank
system of waterworks. An Artesian well sunk 330 feet — 100 in the chalk — ^yields
soft water, fVee from lime, and without a trace of organic matter. The water is
pumped into the tanks at the top of the building, which contain 50,000 gallons, and
the fbuntain is connected with these tanks ; the pumping being by the steam-engine
employed also in printing the bank-notes. The fountain is placed on the site of St.
Christopher's churchyard. The last person buried there was Jenkins, a Bank clerk,
7^ feet in height, and who was allowed to be buried within the walls of the Bank, to
prevent disinterment, on account of his unusual height.
There are in the Bank upwards of eight hundred clerks, at salaries ranging from
652. per annum to 8002. ; the patronage is in the hands of the directors, of whom there
are twenty-four, each having a nomination to admit one derk, provided he be found
qualified on examination. The vacancies are not, as in most pubhc offices, filled up as
they occur by deaths, resignations, &c, but by electing from twenty-five to thirty
junior clerks every four or five months ; it is also usual to admit one-fifth of this num-
ber from the sons of clerks already in tiie service. The scale of pensions for length of
service is the same as in the Government offices.
Among the Cttriosiiies are the bank-note autograph-books— two splendidly-bound
folio volumes, each leaf embellished with an illuTninated border, exactly surrounding
the space required to attach a bank-note. When any (Ustingmshed visitor arrives he
is requested to place his autograph to an unsigned note, which is immediately pasted
over one of the open spaces. They are thus iUnstrated by the sgnatures of various
royal and noble personages. That of Napoleon III., Henry Y., the Kings of Sweden,
Portugal, and Prussia, a whole brigade of German Princes, Ambassadors firom Siam,
Persia, Turkey — ^the latter in Oriental characters—and some of our higher nobility.
There are some sdentific names, but few litcrar}* celebrities; among them those of Lady
Sale; and Mehemet Ali, the P&sha of Egypt.
BANK OF ENGLAND. 31
* Tlie circiilation of the Bank of England has been stationary or slightly retrogreasiTe for some years
past, notwithstanding the increase of trade, wealth, and population. The authuritlos eren of the Cur-
rencT principle no longer insist upon the Tariations of the bank-note circulation as the symptoms to be
ehicfly regaxiled. They, with the rest of the world, have disooTered that the state of the banking reserve
at the Bank of England, the condition of credit, and the effects of a high or low rate of interest are tho
ciremnatawr<n which really control tho financiid phenomena of the country firom week to week and
ninth to moQth." — Eeenowi$t,
TJpvirds of a milUon is paid into the Bank daily, in the shape of notes. When'
cashed a eonier is torn off, and this now Talneless piece of paper, after being duly
entered in the books, is deposited in chambers beneath the sorting-room, where it is
kept ten years, in case it may be required as testimony at some fiitare trial, or to settle
any otlier legal difficulties. In one of the court-yards of the building is a large circular
cage, within which is an octagonal furnace constructed of bricks, laid only half over
each other, so as to afford ample ventilation. In this fbmace, once a month, all the
notes that were received during the month previous ten years back are consumed. The
fnmaee b five feet high, by at least ten in ^meter ; yet we are assured tlmt it is
oampletdy filled by the number returned during one month.
Notes of the Bank, at its establishment, 20 per cent, discount ; in 1746 under par. Bank Bills paid
in stiver, in 1745. Bank Post Bills iirst issued, 1764. Small Notes issued, 1759. Cash payments dis-
crnifchined, Feb. 25, 1797, and Notes of 12. and U. put into circulation. Cash payments partlafly resumed,
Sept. 22, 1817. Bestriction altogether ceased, 1821. May 14;, 1832, upwards of 800,OOOZ. weighed and
paid to bankers and others. Quskers and Hebrews not eligible as Directors. Qualification for Director,
30001. Bank Stoek; Deputy-Governor, aooo/. ; Governor. 40002. Highest price of Bank Stock, 299;
lowest 91. The Bank has paid Dividends at the rat« of 21 per cent., and as low as 4i per cent, per
annum, ^ver Tokens issued, Jan., 1798. Issue on paper seeurities not permitted to exceed 14,000,0002.
Ca{rital ponJahment for fbrgeiy, excepting only forgeries of wills and powers of attorney, abandoned in
11^32.— (See Francis's popular HUiory of the Bank qf England, 3rd edit. 1848.)
1S52; Oct. 1, West-end Branch opened at Uxbridge Hodse, Burlington Gardens.
The totAl of deposits held ten years ago by the Bank of England was about
14,300,0002. ; it is now (1866) 20,140,000;.
In the Riots of 1780, the Bank was defended by military, the City volunteers, and the
officers of the establishment, when the old inkstands were cast into bullets. It was at-
tacked by the mob, when Wilkes rushed out and seized some of the ringleaders. Since
this date a military force has been stationed nightly within the Bank ; a dinner is pro>
vided for the officer on guard and two friends. (See a clever sketch in Melibceus in
Idmdon.) In the political tumult of November, 1830, provisions were made at the
Bank for a state of siege. At the Chartist Demonstration of April 10, 1848, tho roof
of the Bank was fortified by Sappers and Miners, and a strong garrison within. The
Bank has now its own company of Rifles, 150 strong, with two subdiviaons each,
having a Ueutenant and ensign, and fully armed and equipped.
BANKSIJDE.
rAT part of the Liberty of Paris Garden called by old writers the "Bank"
simply, and afterwards Bankside, bordering on the Thames, was the site of several
early theatres, namely, the Globe, the Hope, the Rose, and the Swan; and superseded
the areas for " BuU-bayting" and " Bear-.baiting," shown in Aggas's Map, about 1560.
{See TnxATBSS.) The stews here were as old as the reign of Henry II., and in the
time of Richard II. belonged to Sir William Walworth who slew Wat Tyler, who
kid several stew-houses on the Bankside. They had signs psdnted on the walls; as a
Boards Head, the Cross Keys, the Gun, the Castle, the Cranes, the Cardinal's Hat, the
Bell, the Swan, &c. These stews, which wore regulated by Parliament, were put doAvn
bjr sound of trumpet in 1546; about 1506 this part was known as Stews-bank.
Bean wero baited here from a very early period, but the bear-garden was removed to
Clerkenwell about 1686; the site at Bankside is now occupied by the Eagle iron
foondry and Bear-gaiden wharf. In 1720, the Bank was chiefly inhabited by dyers,
"for the oonveniency of the water." In the reigns of Queen Elizabeth and James I.,
Edward Alleys, the founder of Dulwich College, kept the garden on the Bankside, in
ooDJunction witJi his fiither-in-law, Philip Henslowe, who was originally a dyer here.
Here were the Bishop of Winchester's park and garden and palace: of the latter a
fragment remams ; and here is <* Cardinal's Cap-alley," and " Pike-garden."
32 CURIOSITIES OF LONDON.
BARBICAN.
THIS old street, which is a portion of the line of thoronghfiire, eastward from West
Smitbfield to Finsbnry-sqaare, is named from its proximity to a barbican, or
watch-tower, attached to the City wall, the remains of which were visible within the
last eighty years. It was the advanced post of Cripplegate; and, like the others that
8urround»l the City, was intrusted to some person of oonseqnence in the Sftate. This
tower was granted by Edward III. to the Earl of Suffolk, and he made it his town re-
sidence. After the removal of the City gates all vestiges of the Barbican dis*
appeared, except its name ; this became applied to the street, which R. B., in Strype,
describes as " a good broad street, well inhabited by tradesmen, especially by salesmen
for apparel both new and old ; and, fronting Redcross-street, is the watcbhouse, where
formerly stood a watch-tower called Bwrgh, and Ken, a place to view or ken from,"
which is the derivation given by Sir Henry Spelman, the antiquary, who resided in
this street at the time of his death in 1640.
Camden, in his Britannia (published 1586), says : " The suburb also which runs out
on the north-west side of London is large, and had formerly a watch-tower or military
fence, from whence it came to be called by an Arabick name — Barbacan."
The tower is described as built on high ground, and of some good height : from
thence " a man," says Stow, " might behold and view the whole city towards the south,
and also into Kent, Sussex, and Surrey, and likewise every other way, east, north, or
west." Mr. Godwin, F.S.A., in 1850 read to the British ArcbsBolog^cal Assodation
an ingenious paper illustrative of the term Barbican. ,
Milton lived here, 1646-7, in a house, No. 17, on the north side of the street : it
was taken down in 1864. In Barbican was the mansion of the poet's early patrons, the
Bridgewater fiunily ; and here lived Sir Thomas Wriothesley, Garter King-at-arms ;
whence Bridgewater-square, Brackley-street, and Gkirtor-oourt. Beech-street, the east
continuation of Barbican, was, peradventure, named from Nicholas de la Beech, Lieu-
tenant of the Tower of London, iemp. Edward III. Here, in Drury House, lived
Prince Rupert. Its remains in 1766 were engraved by J. T. Smith. Barbican was,
in 1865-6, in part taken down, to make room for the Metropolitan (Extension to
Finsbury) Rulway.
BARTHOLOMEW FAIR.
THIS andent Fair presents, through its seven centuries' existence, many phases of
our social history with such g^phic force, that " he may run that readeth it."
The Fiur originated in two Fairs, or Markets, one begun by a g^nt of land from
Henry I. to his jester, Rayer, or Habere, who founded a Priory to St. Bartholomew, in
West Smitbfield, previous to which, however, a market called "the King's Market,"
had been held near Smitbfield. Out of the two elements, the concourse of pilgrims to
the Miraculous Shrine of St. Bartholomew, and the concourse of traders to the King's
Market, Bartholomew Fair grew up. Rayer's miracles were most ingenious, for he
cured a woman who could not keep her tongue in her mouth : if the wind went down,
as sidlors for at sea were praying to the denuded saint, they called it a murade, and
presented, in procession, a silver ship at the Smithfidd shrine. The forged miracles
gave way to the imitative jugglers and mjstery players; and these three ele-
ments— ^the religious, the dramatic, and the conmierdal — flowed on till the Refor-
mation.
The Priory Fair, which was proclaimed on the Eve of St. Bartholomew, and con-
tinued during the next day, and the next morrow, was granted for the dothiers of
England and the drapers of London, who had their booths and standings within the
Priory churchyard (the site now Cloth Fair), the gates of which were lodced every
night, and watched, for the safety of the goods and wares. Within its limits was held
a court of justice, named Pie Poudre, from pied$ poudreux — dusty feet — by which,
persons infringing upon the laws of the Fair, its disputes, debts, and legal obligations,
Ac., were tried the same day, and the punishment of the stocks, or whipping-pottt.
BABTHOLOltrEW FAIR. 33
sammarilj inflicted ; and this conrt was held, to the last, at the Hand and Shears, Cloth
Fair, by the Steward of the Lord of the Manor.
"Thus w« hare hi the most ancient timee of the Fair, a church ftill of worshippen, among whom were
ths fkrk and maimed, prajin^ for health about its altar ; a graveyard fUll or timers, and a place of jest-
ing and ediflcatlon, where women and men caroused in the midst of the throng ; where the minstrel anb
the story-teller and the tumbler ^thered knots about them : where the sheriff caused new laws to de
published by loud proclamation m the gathering places of Ihe people; where the young men bowled at
nine-pins^ while the clerks and friars peeped at the young maids; where mounted knights and ladies
curretled and ambled, pedlars loudly magnified their wares, the scholars met for public wrangle, oxen
lowed, horses neighed, and sheep bleated among their buyers ; where great shouts of laughter answered
to the * Ho ! ho I' of the deril on the stage, aI>OTe which flags were nying, and below which a band of
pipers and soitar bearers added music to the din. That stage also, if ever there was presented on it
the story at the Creation, was the first Wild Beast Show in the Fair; for one of the oramatic effects
eoaneded with tlus plav, as we read in an ancient stage direction, was to represent the creation of
beasts by nnloonng and sending among the excited crowd as smat a variety of strange animals as could
bt brooght together, and to create the birds by sendinjj^ up a night of pigeons. Under foot was mud
sad filtfi^ bat tbe wall that pent the city hi shone sunht among the trees, a ftesh breeze came over the
snrroandmg fields and brooks, whispering among the elms that overhung the moor gUttering with
pools, or from the Fair's neignbour, the gallows. Shaven heads looked down on the scene from the
a4|sceat windows of the buildings bordering the Priorv indosure, and the poor people whom the
friars efaerished in their hospital, mada holiday among the rest. The curfew bell of St. Martin's-le-
C^and, the religions house to which William the Conqueror had given with its charter the adjacent
mooriand, and within whose walls there was a sanctuary for loose people, stilled the hum of the crowd
St nightlUl, and the Fair lay dark under the starlight."— Jf«aiotrs of BartkoUmew Fair, By Henry
llorky. 1858.
After the Reformation, Bartholomew Fair floarlshed with tmabated vigour, the clergy
having no longer any interest in veiling its debaucheries. The Priory, together with
the rights formerly exercised by the monks, had been granted to the founder of the
Rich fikmily, who was Solicitor-General to Henry VIII., and afterwards Lord Chancellor ;
they were enjoyed by his descendants till the year 1830, when they were purchased
ftcm Lord Kensington by the Corporation of London, llie Fair greatly declined, as
a cloth fidr, from the rdgn of Queen Elizabeth ; and the mysteries and moralities being
sooceeded by productions more nearly resembling the regular drama, the Corporation
granted licences to mountebanks, conjurors, &c, and aUowed the Fair to be extended to
fourteen days, the Sword-bearer and other City officers being paid out of the emolu-
ments. Hentzner, in 1578, describes a tent pitched for the proclamation of the Fair,
and wrestling after the ceremony, with the crowd hunting wild rabbits, for the sport of
the Mayor and Aldermen. Here was also formerly a burlesque proclamation on the
night before, by the drapers of Cloth Fair snapping thdr shears and loudly shouting
all through Smithfield.
Ben Jonson, in his play oi Bartholomew Fa^, tell us of its motions, or puppet*
shows, of Jerusalem, Nineveh, and Norwich ; and the " Gunpowder Plot, presented to
an eighteen or twenty pence audience nine times in an afternoon." The showman
paid three shillings for his g^round ; and a penny was charged for eveiy burden of goods
and little bundle brought in or carried out. A rare tract, of the year 1641, describes
the ** rariety of Fancies, the Faire of Wares, and the several enormityes and mb-
demeandtrs" of the Fair of that period. At these, the sober-minded Evelyn was
iliocked. Pepys (Aug. 30, 1667) found at the Fair *' my Lady Castlemaine at a
puppet-show," her coach wuting, " and the street full of people expecting her." Tbe
n^ts and shows included wild beasts, dwarfs, and other monstrosities; operas, and
tight-rope dancing, and sarabands ; dogs dancing the Morrioe, and the hare beating
the tabor ; a tiger pulling the feathers from live fowls ; the humours of Punchinello,
and drolls of every di>gree. An ox roasted whole, and piping-hot roast pig, sold in
savoary lots, were among the Fair luxuries : the latter, called Bartholomew Pigs, were
railed at by the Puritans, and eating them was "a species of idolatry." The pig-
ntarket was at Vye Comer, and pig was not out of fashion in Queen Anne's time.
Anxmg the celebrities of the Fair was Tom Dogget, the old comic actor, who " wore
a faroe in his fiice," and was famous for dancing the Cheshire Round. One Ben
JoosoDy the actor, was celebrated as the grave-digger in Hamlet, in which he intro-
duced a song preserved in Durfey's FilU. Tom Walker, the original Macheatb, was
another Bartholomew hero. William Bullock, fh)m York, is alluded to by Steele, in
The Father, and b censured for *' gagging :" in 1739 he had the largest booth in the
Fair. Theophilus Gibber was of the Fair, but there b no evidence that Colley Cibber
ever appeared there. Cadman, the famous flyer on the rope, immortalized by Hogarth,
a* CURIOSITIES OF LONDON,
was a constant exhibitor at Bartholomew, as well as Southwark Fair. William
Phillips was a famous Merry Andrew, and some time fiddler to a puppet-show, in
which he held many a cUalogue with Punch. Edward Phillips wrote Britons Strike
Some for the Fair ; and Kitty Clive played at the booth of Fawkes, Winchbeck, ^kc,
in that very farce. Harlequin. Phillips was in Mrs. Lee's company, and afterwards
became the celebrated Harlequin at Dmry-lane, under Fleetwood. Penkethman and
Bogget, though of very unequal reputation, are noticed in the Spectator, The first
in that humorous account of the Projector, in the Slst number, where it is proposed
that " Penkethman should personate King Poms upon an elephant, and be encountered
by Powell, representing Alexander the Great, upon a dromedary, which, nevertheless,
Mr. Powell is desired to call by the name of Bucephalus." ^Dogget is commended
(No. 502) as an admirable and genuine actor.
The public theatres were invariably closed at Bartholomew Fair time ; drolls, like
Estcourt and Penkethman, finding Bartholomew Fair a more profitable arena for
their talents than the boards of Dorset-g^arden or old Drury-lane. Here Elkanah
Settle, the rival for years of Dryden, was reduced at last to string speeches and con-
trive machinery; and here, in the droll of St. George for England, he made his last
appearance, hissing in a green leather dragon of his own invention.
Here we may mention another class of sights, — "a large and beautiful young camel
from Grand Cairo, in Egy{>t," says the advertisement : "this creature is twenty-three
years old ; his head and i^dc are like that of a deer," and he " was to be seen or sold
at the first house on the pavement from the end of Hosier-lane, during Bartholomew
Fair." And we read that later. Sir Hans Sloane employed a draughtsman to sketch
the wonderful foreign animals in the Fair.
There are scores of other Bartholomew celebrities — acton, mummers, tumblers,
conjurors, and exhibitors of various grades, as Burling and his famous monkey;
William Joy, the English Samson; Francis Battalia, the Stone Eater; Topham, the
Strong Man; Hale, the Piper; the Auctioneer of Moorfields, who reg^rly, for a
series of years, transferred his book-stall to Smithfidds Bounds ; James Spiller, the
original Mat o* the Mint of the Beggat^a Opera, at one time the " glory of the Fair :"
this piece was played at Smithfield in 1728. Punchinello was another Bartholomew
attraction :-—
** 'Twos then, when Aniirast near was spent.
That Bat, the grilliado'd saint,
Had oshered inlhii Smithfield revels,
'Where ^neMaaiUM, popes and devils,
Are by authority allowed.
To please the giddy, gaplog crowd.**
hudibrtu BedivUmt, 1707.
Powell, too, the Puppet-show man, was a great card at the Fair, especially when
his puppets played such incomparable dramas as WHtHngton and hie Cat, The Children
in the Wood, Dr. FoMstus, Friar Bacon, Bohin JSood and Little John, Mother
Shipton, *' together with the pleasant and comical humours of Yalentini, Nioolini, and
the tuneful warbling pig of Italian race." No wonder that such attractions thinned
the theatres, and kept the churches empty. Steele makes mention of ** Powell's hooks :**
if they were books of his performances, what a treasure they would be in our day !
The two great characters of Jewish history — Judith and Solophemes — ^long kept in
popular &vour; for Setchcrs fan-print of 1728 depicts Lee and Harper^s great
theatrical booth, with an announcement of the play of Judith's Adventures us its chief
attraction : elevated from puppet performers to regular living actors, Judith herself
being seated on the platform of the show in a magnificent dress, and the high head-
dress and fidse jewellery that captivated the wicked Solophemes, who strides towards
her in the full costume of a Roman general.
Among Bagford's collection in the British Museum, is a Bartholomew Fur bill of
the time of Queen Anne, of the playing at Heatly's booth, of " a little opera, called
the Old Creation of the World newly revived, with the addition of the Glorious bcUtle
ohtmned over the French and Spaniards hy his Ghrace the Duke of Marlborough !"
Between the acts, jigs, sarabands, and antics were performed, and the whole entertain-
ment concluded with The Merry Humours of Sir John SpendaU and BunchineUo /
BARTHOLOMEW FAIR. 85
icUh several other things not yet exposed" Heatly is supposed to have had no better
coenoy than the pasteboard properties of oar early theatres : —
"The chaos, too^ he had deacried
And seen qoite through, or else he lied;
Not that or pasteboard which men shew
For groats at Fair of Barthol'mew."— jETiuiidfYU, canto i.
Henry Fielding Lad his booth here. Dr. Bimbault tells us, after his admismon into
the Middle Temple. That Fielding should have turned ** strolling actor," and have
the andadty to appear at Bartholomew at the very moment when the whole town was
ringing with Pope's savage ridicule of the " Smithfield Moses," would of course be
an unpardooaUe •offence. Fielding^s last appearance at Bartholomew Fair was in
l736i, aa nsual, in the George Inn Yard, at " Fielding and Hippisley's Booth." Don
Carlos and the Cheats of Scapin, adapted from MoUer^ were the two plays ; and
Mrs. Pritchard played the part of Loveit, in which she had made her first hit at
Bartholomew. Other celebrities, who kept up the character of the Fair foir another
quarter of a century, were Yates, Lee, Woodward, and Shuter, the two last well known
for their connexion with Goldsmith's comedies. Shuter played Croaker in the Chod'
natmred Man^ and Mardcastle in She Stoops to Conquer, Woodward played IfOfty in
the fimner piece. With Shuter, "the lustory of the English stage " (says Mr. Morley)
** parted entirely firom the story of the Fair." Garrick's name is connected only with
thie Fair by stories which regard him aa.a visitor : although Edmund Kean is stated
to have played here when a boy.
Among tiie notorieties of the Fair was Lady Holland's Mob (Lord Rich having been
ancestor of the Earl of Warwick and Holland), — ^hundreds of loose fellows, principally
joameyman tailors, who used to assemble at the Hand and Shears, in Cloth Fair.
They were accustomed to sally forth knocking at the doors and ringing the bells of
the peaceable inhalntants, and assaulting and ill-treating passengers. These nif-
fians frequently united in such strength as to defy the dvil power. As late as 1822,
m nomber of them exceeding 6000 rioted in Skinner-street, and were for hours too
powerful for the police.
The Fair was annually proclaimed by the Lord Mayor, on the 2nd of September,
his knrdship proceeding thither in his gilt coach, ''with City Officers and trumpets;"
and the proclamation for the purpose read before the entrance to Cloth Fair. It was
the custom for the Lord Mayor, on this occasion, to call upon the keeper of Newgate,
and partake, on his way to Smithfield, of " a cool tankard of wine, nutmeg, and sugar."
This custom, which ceased in the second mayoralty of Sir Matthew Wood in 1818«
was the cause of the death of Sir John Shorter, Loxd Mayor in 1688. In holding the
tankard, he let the lid slip down with so much force, that his horse started, and he was
thrown to the ground with great violence. He died the next day.
The Fair dvrindled year by year : the writer remembers it at midnight, before gas had
become common : viewed from Richardson's, the shows, booths, and stalls, with their
flaring <Ml-lamp6 and torches, shed a strange glare over the vast sea of heads which
fiDed the area of Smithfield and the acyaoent streets. As lately as 1830, upwards of
200 booths finr toys and gingerbread crowded the pavement around the Fair, and over-
floired into the adjacent streets. Bichardson, Saunders, and Wombwell were late in
the ascendant as showmen. Among the latest ** larks " was that of young men of caste
disguising themselves in working clothes, to enjoy the loose delights of "Bartlemy"
Fair, in September.
For 900 years the Lord Mayor and Aldermen had in vain attempted to suppress
the Fair ; when, in 1840, upon the recommendation of the City Solicitor, Mr. Charles
Pearson, having purchased Lord Kensington's interest, they refused to let the ground
for the shows and booths but upon exorbitant prices, and limited the Fair to one day ;
sod the State proclamation of the Lord Mayor was given up. In 1849, the Fair was
rodnoed to one or two stalls for gingerbread, gambling-tables for nuts, a few fruit«
barrows and toy-stalls, and one puppet-show. In 1852, the number was still less.
"The Mayors had withdrawn the formality as much as possible firom pablio obserTatioii, until In the
jev 1860L and in the majoralty of Alderman Mnsgrove, his lordship having walked quietly to the
■moioted gateway, with the necessary attendants, found that therp was not any Fair left worth a
3f ayor's prodaiminff. After that year, therefore, no Mayor accompanied the gentleman whose da^ it
3> 2
86 CURIOSITIES OF LONDON.
wu to read a certain form of words out of a certain parchment scroU, under a quiet gateway. Alter
five years this form alao was dispensed with, and Biuiholomew Fair was proclaimed for the last
time in the year 1866. The sole existing vestige of it is the old fee of three and sixpence still paid
bj the City to the Rector of St. Bartholomew the Greats for a proclamation in his parish.^'— lf<Mn<«|F.
It was held tliat the proclamation was part of the charter for holding the market,
on which account it continued to be read, until the Act of Parliatoent for removing
the market to Copenhagen-fields at lengUi relieved the Corporation of going tiirough
the useless ceremony.
Hone, in his JEvery-day Book, descrihes the Bartholomew Fair of 1825, with the
minuteness of Dutch painting : Hone visited the several sights and shows, accom-
panied by Samuel Williams, by whom the wood-cut illustrations were cleverly drawn and
engraved. Mr. Morley's History of the Fair, which has been referred to, is a laborious
work, with some original views.
BARTHOLOME'^S (ST.) HOSPITAZ,
IK West Smithfield, is one of the five Kpyal Hospitals of the City, and the first
institution of the kind established in the metropolis. It was originally a portion
of the Priory of St. Bartholomew, founded by Rahere, in 1102, who obtained from
Henry I. a piece of waste ground, upon which he built an hospital for a master,
brethren and sisters, sick perrons, and pregnant women. Both the Priory and the
Hospital were surrendered to Henry VIII., who, at the petition of Sir lUchard Gresham,
Lord Mayor, and father of Sir Thomas Gresham, re-founded the latter, and endowed it
with an annual revenue of 500 marks, the City agreeing to pay an equal sum ; since
which time the Hospital has received princely benefactions from charitable persons.
It was first placed under the superintendence of Thomas Vicary, sergeant-surgeon to
Henry VIII., Edward VT., Mary, and Elizabeth; Harvey was phy»cian to the Hos-
pital for thirty- four years; and here, in 1619, he first lectured on the discovery of the
Circulation of the Blood.
The Hospital buildings escaped the Great Fire in 1666 ; but becoming ruinous,
were taken down in 1730, and the great quadrangle rebuilt by Gibbs ; over the en-
trance next Smithfield is a statue of Henry VIII., and under it, " St. Bartholomew's
Hospital, founded by Kahere, a-d. 1102, re-founded by Henry VIII., 1546;" on the
pediment are two reclining figures of Lameness and Sickness. The cost of these
buildings was defrayed by public subscription, to which the munificent Dr. Badcliffe
contributed largely ; besides leaving 500/. a year for the improvement of the diet, and
1002. a year to buy linen. The principal entrance, next Smithfield, was erected
in 1702 ; it is of poor architectural character.
The Museums, Theatres, and Library of the Hospital are very extennve ; as is also
the New Surgery, built in 1842. The Lectures of the present day were established
by Mr. Abemethy, elected Assistant-Surgeon in 1787. Prizes and honorary distinc-
tions for proficiency in medical science were first established in 1834; and their annual
distribution in May is an interesting scene. In 1843 was founded a Collegiate
Establishment for the pupils' residence within the Hospital walls. A spadous Casu-
alty Room has since been added.
The interior of the Hospital, besides its cleanly and well-regulated wards, has a
grand staircase ; the latter painted by Hogarth, for which he was made a life-governor.
The subjects are — the Good Samaritan; the Pool of Bethesda; Rahere, the founder,
laying the first stone ; and a sick man carried on a bier, attended by monks. In the
Court Room is a picture of St. Bartholomew hol(Hng a knife, as the symbol of his
martyrdom; a portrait of Henry VIII. in Holbein's manner ; of Dr. Raddiffe, by
Eneller; Perceval Pott, by Reynolds; and of Abemethy, by Lawrence.
In January, 1846, the election of Prince Albert to a Governorship of the Hospital
was commemorated by the president and treasurer presenting to the foundation three
costly silver-gilt dishes, each nearly twenty-four inches in diameter, and richly chased
with a bold relief of— 1. The Election of the Prince; 2. The Good Samaritan; 8. The
Plague of London.
llie Charity is ably managed by the Corporation : the president must have served
as Lord Mayor; the qualification of a Governor is a donation of 100 gpiineas.
BATES, OLDEN. 37
** From a aearch made in the oflBcial records of the City, it appears that for more than three hnndred
Team, namely, since 1610, an alderman of London had always been elected president of St. Bartholomew's
Hospital; mitil 1854^ whenever a vaeanCT occurred in tlie presidency of the Royal Hospitals (St
Bartholomew's, Bethlehem, Brideweli, St Thomas's, or Christ s Hospitals), it was customary to elect
the Lord Uayor for the time beinir, or an alderman who had passed the chair. This rule was first
broken when the Duke of Cambridge was chosen President of Christ's Hospital over the head of
AUerman Sidn^, the then Lord Mayor ; and again when Mr. Cnbitt, then no longer an alderman, was
elected President of St Bartholomew's Id preference to the then Lord Mayor. This question is, how«
ever, contested by the foundation-goremors or the Corporation, and the donation-governors."
It has beea ahown that King Henry VIII. in 1546 vested the Hospital of St.
Bartholomew in the mayor, commonalty, and citizens of London, and their saccessors,
for ever, in consideration of a payment by them of 600 marks a year towards its
maintenance, and with it the nomination and appointment of all the officers. In
September, 1557, at a general court of the Governors of all the Hospitals, it was ordered
that St. Bartholomew's should henceforth be united to the rest of the Hospitals, and
be made one body with them, and on the following day ordinances were made by the
Corporation ibr the general government of all the Hospitals. The 500 marks a year
have been paid by the Corporation since 1546, besides the profit of many valuable
This charity has an existence of nearly seven centuries and a half. The Hospital
reoei'vet, upon petition, cases of all kinds free of fees ; and accidents, or cases of
urgent disease, without letter, at the Surgery, at any hour of the day or night.
There is also a " Samaritan Fund," for relieving distressed patients. The present
buildings contain 25 wards, consisting of 650 beds, 400 being for surgical cases, and
250 for medical cases and the diseases of women. Each ward is presided over by a
" sister" and nurses, to the number of nearly 180 persons. In addition to a very ex-
tensxre medical staff, there are four resident surgeons and two resident apothecaries^
who are always on duty, day and night, throughout the year, to attend to whatever
may be brought in at any hour of the twenty-four. It further possesses a College
within itself, a priceless museum ; and a first-class Medical School, conducted by thirty-
six professors and assistants. The ''View-day," for this and the other Royal Hospitals
of the (5ty, is a day specially set apart by the authorities to examine, in their official
collective capacity, every portion of the establishment ; when the public are admitted.
BATES, OLBEN.
THE most ancient Bath in the metropolis \b " the old Boman Spring Bath** in
Strand-lane ; but evidently unknown to Stow, though he mentions the locality
as " a lane or way down to the landing-place on the banks of the Thames." This
Bath is in a vaulted chamber, and is formed of thin tile-like brick, layers of cement
and rubble^stones, all corresponding with the materials of the Roman wall of London ;
the water is beautifully clear and extremely cold. The property can be traced to the
Danvers, or lyAnvers, fimiily, of Swithland Hall, Leicestershire, whose mansion
stood upon the spot.
8t, Agne$'le'Clair Baths, Tabernacle-square, Finsbury, are supposed originally to
have been of the above age, from finding the Roman tiles through which the water
was once conveyed. Stow mentions them as " Dame Anne's the clear." The date
assigned to these Baths is 1502. This famous spring was dedicated to St. Agnes ;
SDd, from the transparency and salubrity of its waters, denominated St. Agnes-le>
Clair. It has claims to antiquity, for it appears that in the reign of Henry VIII. it
was thus named : — " Font voc^ Dame Agnes a Clere" It is described as belonging to
Charles Stuart, late king of England. This spring was said to be of great efficacy in
all rheumatic and nervous cases, headache, &c,
Peerless Pool, Baldwin-street, City-road, is referred to by Stow as near St. Agnes-le-
Clair, and " one other clear water, called Perilous Pond, because divers youths, by
iwimming therein, have been drowned ;" but this ominous name was change to Peerless
Pool ; in 1743, it was enclosed, and converted into a bathing-place.
lie Cold Both, Clerkenwell, was originally the property of one Walter Baynes, who
jrarcliased a moiety of the estate, in 1696 ; when it comprised Windmill-hill, or Sir
John Oldcastle's Field, extending westward from Sir John Oldcastle's to the River
88 CUBI08ITIE8 OF LONDOK
Floct, or, as it was then called, Tnmmill-broolc ; and southward, by Coppioe-row, to
the same brook, near the Clerks' Wells : whUe Gardiner's Farm was the plot on
which stands the Middlesex Honse of Correction. Bayues's attention ^'as first
directed to the Cold Spring, which, in 1697, he oonvertod into a BcUh, spoken of,
eleven years afterwards, in Hatton's New Vieto, as " the most noted and first about
London," which assertion, written so near the time at which it states the origin of cnar
Cold Bath, disproves the story of its having been the bath of Nell Gwynn, whom a
nude figure, on porcelain, preserved by the proprietor, is said to represent. In Mr.
Baynes's time, the charge for bathing was 28. : or, in the case of patients who, from
weakness, required the " chair," 2s. 6d. The chair was suspended from the ceilings
in such a manner that a person placed in it could be thereby lowered into the water,
and drawn up again in the same way. The spring was at the acm^ of its reputation
in 1700. Of its utility, in cases of weakness more especially, there can be no ques-
tion. Besides which, its efficacy is stated in the cure of scorbutic oomplaintB, nervous
affections, rheumatism, chronic disorders, &c. It is a chalybeate, and deposits a saline
incrustation. The spring is said to supply 20,000 gallons daily. The height to
which it rises in the marble receptacles prepared for it, is four feet seven inches.
Until the sale of the estate in 1811, the Bath House, with the garden in whidi it
stood, comprised an area of 103 feet by 60, enclosed by a brick wall, with a summer-
house (resembling a little tower) at each angle : the house had sevwal gables. The
garden was let on building-leases, and the whole is now covered with houses, the
Bath remaining in the midst. In 1815, the exterior of the Bnth House was nearly all
taken down, leaving only a small portion of its frontage, which it still retains.
The Duke^s Bath, or Bagnio, is minutely described by Samuel Haworth, in 1683, as
" erected near the west end of Long Acre, in that spot of ground called Salisbury
Stables." Here dwelt Sir William Jennings, who obtained the royal patent for making
all public bagnios or baths, either for sweating, bathing, or washing. " In one of the
ante-rooms hangs a pair of scales, to weigh such as out of curiosity would know how
much they lose in weight while they are in the bagnio. The bagnio itself is a stately
oval edifice, with a cupola roof, in which are round glasses to let in light. The
cupola is supported by eight columns, between which and the sides is a ' sumptuous
walk,' arched over with brick. Tlie bagnio is paved with marble, and has a marble
table ; the sides are covered with white gully-tiles, and within the wall were ten seats,
such as are in the baths at Bath. There are also fourteen niches in the walls, in
which are placed so many fonts or basins, with cocks over them of hot or cold water.
On one side of the bagnio hongs a very handsome pendulum-clock, which is kept to
give an exact account how time passeth away. Adjoining to the bagnio there are four
little round rooms, about eight feet over, which are made for degrees of heat, some
being hotter, others colder, as persons can best bear and are pleased to use. These
rooms are also covered with cupolas, and their walls with g^lly-tiles." We refbr the
reader to Haworth's account for the details of "the entertainment," as the bath is termed.
On the east side of the Bagnio fronting the street, is *' The Duke's Bagnio Coffee-
house." A great gate opens into a courtyard, for coaches. In this courtyard is visible
the front of the Bagnio, having this inscription upon it in golden letters, upon a carved
stone : — " The Duke's Bagnio." On the left of the yard is a building for the accom-
modation required for the bath, on the outside of which is inscribed in like manner —
<< The Duke's Bath." Tlie building is about 42 feet broad, 21 feet deep, and three
stories high. There is on the lower story a room for a laboratory, in which are chemic
furnaces, ghsses, and other instruments necessary for making the bath waters. On
the accession of the Duke of York to the throne, the Baths were improved, and re-
opened, under the name of the *' King's Bagnio," in 1686, by Leonard Cunditt, who,
in his advertisement, says — "There is no other Bagnio in or about London besides this
and the Royal Bagnio in the City." This, Malcolm supposes, was in allusion to the
Bagnio we shall next describe, which seems to have been the first we had in the capital.
The Bagnio, in Bagnio-court (altered to Bath-street in 1843), Newgate-street, was
built by Turkish merchants, and first opened in December, 1679, for sweating, hot
bathing, and copping. It has a cupola roof, marble steps, and Dutch tile wollsi, and
was latterly used as a cold Bath.
BATES, OLDEN. 39
Qmm AMtu^t Bath was at the back of the house No. 3, Endell-street, Long-acre, ou
the west side of the street. It has been converted into a wareroom by an iron-
monger whose shop is in the front of the premises. The part occnpied by the water
has been boarded orer, leaving some of the Dutch tiles which line the sides of the
Bath viable. The water, wbich flows from a copious spring, is a powerftd tonic, and
contttns a oonaiderable trace of iron. Thirty years ago it was much used in the
Dogfaboorhood, when it was considered good for rheumatism and other disorders. The
born in which the Bath is situate was formerly No. 8, Old Belton-street : it was
newly-fronted in 1845 ; the exterior had originally red brick pilasters, and a cornice^ in
the style of Inigo Jones. It does not seem clear how this place obtained the name of
Queen Aime's Bath. It might be supposed that this had been a portion of the King's
Bagnio. Old maps of London, however, show this could scarcely be correct, for the
Duke's, afterwards the King's Bagnio was on the south side of Long-acre, and the
abofve Bath is about a hundred yards to the north of that thoroughfare. '* Queen
Anne's Batii" is engraved from a recent sketch in the Builder, Oct. 12, 1861 ; whence
the preceding details of the three Baths are abridged.
Tks Sumnmnu, in Covent-garden, now an hotel, with baths, was formerly "a
Bagnio^ or Place for Sweating ;" in Arabic " Hammam." Maloolm says : *' The Arabic
root imna, \^^, signifies eaUtoere, to grow warm : hence by the usual process of deriv-
ing noons frtnn verbs in that language, hummum, ^^^, a warm bath. They are known
by that name all over the East." The Bagnio at the hot Baths at Sophia, in Turkey,
is thus described by Lady Mary Wortley Montague, in her Letters, vol. i., and probably
her description suggested the name of the Old and New Hummums :" —
* It !• baOt of gtone, in the thape of a dome, with no window bat in the roof, which gives light
eaoogh. There ore five of these dcones idned together ; the outermost being less than the rest, and
■erviag ss a hall, where tiie portress stood at the door. Ladies of quality ffoneralljr gave this woman a
crown or ten shillmgs. The next room was a lar^ one, paved with marble, and all round it are two
raised aolha of marbie, one above the other. There were four fountains of cold water in this room,
blling first into marble basins, and then running on the floor in little channels out for that purpose,
which earned the streams into the next room, which is something less, and fitted with the same sort of
marble sofiu; but from the streams of sulphur proceeding from the bath adljoinlng to it, it is impossible
to stay with one's clothes on. Through the other two doors were the hot batns; one of which had
cocks of cold water turned into it— tempering it to what degree of warmth the bather please to have.'*
Queem Blitaheth's Bath formerly stood among a cluster of old buildings adjoining the
King's Mews^ at Charing Cross, and was removed in 1831. Of this Bath a plan and
view were presented to the Society of Antiquaries, Feb. 9, 1882, and are engraved in
the Arekaoloffia, zxv. 588-90. The building was nearly square on the plan, and was
ooDstmcted of fine red lirick. Its chief merit consisted in its groined roof, which was
of very neat workmanship, and formed by angular ribs springing from corbels. The
form of the arch denoted the date of this building to be the fifteenth century.
7%e Floating Baths (of which there were two in our day) upon the Thames, in plan
remind one of the Folly described by Tom Brown as a " musical summer-house,"
usoaUy anchored opposite Somerset House Gardens. The Queen of William III. and
her court once visited it; but it became a scene of low debauchery, and the bath build-
ing was left to decay, and be taken away for firewood.
The TStrhish Bath, which closely resembles the Bath of the old Romans, was
introdnoed into Ireland and Engluid in 1856: and in London handsome baths
were erected in Victoria-street, Westminster; these were taken down in 1855-6.
The most extensive establishment of this class in London is the Hammam, or hot-air
Bath, opened in 1862, No. 76, Jermyn-street, St. James's, and formed under the
superintendence of Mr. David Urquhart ; its cost is stated at 6000^. ; the architecture
Is from Bastem sources.
Baths £sn> Wash-houses, for tho working classes, originated in 1844, with an
"Association for Promoting Cleanliness among the Poor," who fitted up a Bath-house
and a Laundry in Qlass-house Yard, East Smithfield; where, in the year ending June
1847, the bathers, washers, and ironers amounted to 84,584 ; the bathers and washers
costing about one penny each, and the ironers about one farthing. The Assodation
also gave wbitewaidi, and lent pails and brushes, to those willing to cleanse their own
WTVftchad dwellings. And so strong was the love of cleanliness thus encouraged, that
40 CUEI0SITIE8 OF LONDON.
women often toiled to wash their own and their children's clothing, who had boon com-
pelled to tell their hair to purchase food to satisfy the cravings of hunger. This
successful experiment led to the passing of an Act of Parliament (9 and 10 Vict. c. 74),
** To Encourage the Establishment of Baths and Wash-houses." A Committee sat at
Exeter Hall for the same object; a Model Establishment was built in Ooulston -square^
AVhitechapel ; and Baths and Wash-houses were established in St. Pancras, Maryle-
bone, St. Martiu-in-the-Fields, and other large metropolitan parishes.
BATNABJyS CASTLE.
A STRONGHOLD, " built with walls and rampires," on the banks of the Thames
below St. Paul's, by Bainiardus, a follower of William the Conqueror. In 1111
it was forfeited, and granted by Henry I. to Robert Fitzgerald, son of Gilbert, Earl of
Clare ; from whom it passed, by several descents, to the Fitzwalters (the chief ban-
nerets of London, probably in fee for this castle), one of whom, at the commencement
of a war, was bound to appear at the west door of St. Paul's, armed and mounted,
with twenty attendants, and there receive from the Mayor the banner of the City, a
horse worth 20/., and 201. in money. In 1428, the castle became, probably by
another forfeiture, crown property ; it was almost entirely burnt, but was granted to
Humphrey, Duke of Gloucester, by whom it was rebuilt ; upon his attainder, it again
reverted to the Crown. Here Stafford, Duke of Buckingham, presented to Richard,
Duke of Gloucester, a parchment purporting to be a declaration of the three estates in
favour of Richard; and in the "Court of Baynard's Castle" Shakspeare has laid
scenes 3 and 7, act iii., of Kin^ Richard IIL ; the latter between Buckingham, the
Mayor, Aldermen, and citizens, and Gloucester. Baynard's Castle was repaired by
Henry VII., and used as a royal palace until the reign of Queen Elizabeth, when it
was let to the Earls of Pembroke; and liertf, in 1553, the Privy Council, "changing
their mind from Lady Jane," proclaimed Queen Mary. The castle subsequently
became the residence of the Earls of Shrewsbury. Pepys records King Charles II.
supping here, 19th June, 1660 ; and six years after the castle was destroyed in the
Great Fire. ' The buildings surrounded two court-yards, with the south front to the
Thames, and the north in Thames-street, where was the principal entrance. Two of
the towers, incorporated with other buildings, remiuned till the present century, when
they were pulled down to make way for the Carron Iron Company's premises. The
ward in which stood the fortress-palace is named Castle-Baynard, as is also a wharf
upon the site ; and a public-house in the neighbourhood long bore the sign of " Dake
Humphrey's Head."
In Notes and Queries, No. 11, it is shown that Bainiardus, who gave his name to
Baynard's Castle, held land here of the Abbot of Westminster ; and in a grant of 1653
is described " the common field at Paddington" (now Bayswater Field), as being *' near
to a place commonly called Baynard^s Watering" Hence it is condnded " that this
portion of ground, always remarkable for its springs of excellent water, once supplied
water to Baynard, his household, or his castle ; that the memory of his name was pre«
served in the neighbourhood for six centuries ;" and that this watering-place is now
Bayswater.
BAZAARS.
THE Bazaar is an adaptation from the East, the true principle of which is the classifi-
cation of trades. Thus, Paternoster-row, with its books; Newport Market, with
its butchers' shops ; and Monmouth-street with its shoes ; are more properly Bazaars
than the miscellaneous stalls assembled under cover, which are in London designated by
this name. Exeter 'Change was a great cutlery bazaar ; and the row of attorneys'
shops in the Lord Mayor's Court Ofiice, in the second Royal Exchange, were a kind of
legal Bazaar, the name of each attorney being inscribed upon a projecting signboard.
The Crystal Palace of 1851, and the Great Exhibition of 1862, were vast assemblages
of Bazaars. The Crystal Palace at Sydenham partakes of this character.
The introduction of the Bazaar into the metropolis dates from 1816, when was
opened the Soho Bazaab, at 4, 5, and 6, Soho-square. It was planned solely by Mr.
BAZAAUS. 41
John Trotter, with a truly benevolent motive. At the termination of the War, when
a great nmnber of widows, orphans, and relatives of those who had lost their lives
on foreign service were in distress and withoat employment, Mr. Trotter conceived that
■n establishment in the hands of Government would promote the views of the respect-
able and industrious (possessing but small means) by affording them advantages to
begin business without great risk and outlay of capital. Mr. Trotter having at that
time an extenave range of premises unoccupied, without any idea of personal emolu-
ment, offered them to Government, free of expense, for several years, engaging also to
nndertake thdr direction and management on the same disinterested terms. His
scheme was, however, considered visionary, and his offer rejected. Mr. Trotter then
imdertook the responsibility himself; the Bazaar was opened Ist February, 1816, and
by excellent management, the establishment has since flourished ; this success being
mainly attributable to the selection of persons of respectability as its inmates, for whose
protection an efficient superintendence of several matrons is provided. The counters
are mostly for fancy goods, and to obtain a tenancy requires a testimonial respectably
aigned. The success of the Soho Bazaar led to establishments formed by private
individuals, but with only temporary success.
The Western Exchaitgb, Old Bond-street (with an entrance from the Burlington
Arcade), was burnt down, and not re-established.
The Queen's Bazaab, on the north side of Oxford-street, the rear in Castle-street,
was destroyed. May 23, 1829, by a fire which commenced at a dionimic exhibition of
"the Destruction of York Minster by fire." The Bazaar was rebuilt; but proving
misuooeasfttl, was taken down, and upon the ate was built the Princess' Theatre.
The Pantheon Bazaab, on the south side of Oxford-street, with an entrance in
Great Marlborough-street, was constructed in 1834, from the designs of Sydney Smirke,
A.RJL, within the walls of the Pantheon Theatre, built in 1812 ; the fronts to Oxford-
atreet and Poland-street being the only remains of the original structure. The mag-
nificent ataircase leads to a suite of rooms, in which pictures are placed for sale ; and
thenoe to the g^reat Basilical Hall or Bazaar, which is 116 feet long, 88 feet wide, and
60 feet high ; it is mostly lighted firom curved windows in the roof, which is richly
decorated, as are the piers of the arcades, with arabesque scrolls of flowers, fruit, and
birds ; the ornaments of papier-mache by Bielefield. The style of decoration is from
the loggias of the Vatican. The galleries and the floor are laid out with coimters, and
promenades between. From the southern end of the hall is the entrance to an elegant
conservatory and aviary, mostly of glass, ornamented in Saracenic style. Here are birds
of rich plumage, with luxuriant plants, which, with the profusion of marble, gilding,
and colour, have a very pleasing effect in the heart of the smoky town.
The Bazaab in Baker-street, Portman-square, was originally established for the
sale of horses; but carriage, harness, furniture, stoves, and glass are the commodities
now sold here. Madame Tussaud's Wax-work Exhibition occupies the greater part ;
and here, annually, in December, the Smithfield Club Cattle Show formerly took place.
The Pantechnicon, Halkin-street, Belgrave-square, is a Bazaar chiefly for carriages
and fbmitare. Here, too, you may warehouse ^uniture, wine, pictures, and carriages,
for any period, at a light charge compared with house-rent.
The LowTHEB Bazaab, nearly opposite the Lowther Arcade, Strand, was a reposi-
tory of fiincy goods, besides a " Magic Cave," and other exhibitions. The establish-
ment was frequently visited by Louis Philippe from 1848 to 1850. The Magic Cave,
with ita oosmoramic pictures, realized 1600/. per annum, at 6d. for each admission.
This and the house adjcnning, eastward, have f^nts of tasteful architectural de»gn.
St. James's Bazaab, King'Street, St. Jamcs's-street, was built for Mr. Crockford,
in 1832, and has a saloon nearly 200 feet long by 40 wide. Here were exhibited, in
1^1, three dioramic tableaux of the second obsequies of Napoleon, in Paris, at Decem-
ber, ISll. And in 1844 took pkce here the first exhibition of Decorative Works for
the Xew Hoosea of Parliament.
The CosvoBAJlA, No. 207-209, Begent-street, originally an exhibition of views of
42 CUBIOSITIES OF LONBON.
places through large oonvex lenses, was altered into a Bazaar, subsequently, the
Frinoe of Wales's Bazaar.
The Aitti-Cobn-Law LEAams Bazaab was held m the spring of 1845, when the
auditory and stage of Ck)vent-garden Theatre were fitted up for this purpose, and in six
weeks 25,0002. was cleared by the speculation, partly by admission-money. The
Theatre was painted as a vast Tudor Hall, by Messrs. Grieve, and illuminated with gas
in the day-time ; the goods being exhibited for sale on stalls, appropriated to the great
manu&cturing locaUties of the United Kingdom. At this time the Theatre was let
to the League at 3000 guineas for the term of holding the Bazaar, and one night per
week for public meetings throughout one year.
The PoBTLAKD Bazaab, 19, Langham-place, is noted for its '' German Fair," and
its display of deverly -modelled toy figures of nnimalB.
BEGGARS.
BEGGING, although illegal, and forbidden by one of our latest statutes, is followed
as a trade in the metropolis, perhaps more systematically than in any other
European capital. It has been stated that the number of professional Beggars in and
about London amounts to 15,000, more than two-thirds of whom are Irish.
The vigilance of the Police, and the exposure of Beggars' frauds by the press and
upon the stage (from the Beggar' $ Opera to Tom and Jerry), have done much towards
the suppression of Begging. The Mendicity Society, in Red Lion-square, Holbom,
established in 1818, has also moderated the evil by exposing and punishing impostors^
and relieving deserving persons. The receipts of IJiis institution are upwards of 40002.
a year. In one day it has distributed 8300 meals. The Society has a mill, stone-
yard, and oakum-room, in which, during one day, there have been employed 763
persons, who would otherwise have been begging in the streets. A record is kept of
all begging-letter cases, from which police-magistrates obtain information as to the
character of persons brought before them. There are other societies for similar objects.
Sir John Fielding, in his " Cautions," published in 1776, gives a curious picture of
the Skif Farmers who imposed upon the benevolent, as " good old charitable ladies,"
with heedful stories of losses by fire, inundations, &c, for which the cheats collected
subscriptions entered in a book, setting out with false names. Sir John says : —
There are penons in tlii« town who get a very good livelihood by writing letters and petitions of this
stamp. A woman stuffed up as if she waa ready to lie in, with two or three borrowed children and a
letter, glring an acoount of ner husband's fltUing off a aci^old and breaking his limbs, by being drowned
at aea» is an irresistible object
Many years ago, there died in Broad-street Buildings, aged 81, John Yardley
Vernon, who wore in the streets the garb of a beggar, though he possessed 100,0002.^
which he realized as a stockbroker.
Mr. Henry Mayhew has given us the fullest report of the Beggar-life of our time :
which has been supplemented by Mr. HalHday : all tending to prove that indiscrimi-
nate relief of street-beggars is most delusive and dangerous.
With the ordinary types of" diiaste; beggars," such as shipwrecked mariners, blown-op miners —
" those having real or pretended sores Tnlgarly known as the scaldman dodge/' we are all familiar.
Bat there are oddities and niceties even in this humble department of the Begging art There are.
fbr Instance, the ludfer droppers. The business of these persons is to take a box or two of lucifen, and
offer them for sale at a crowded and dirty comer. They choose a victim, and contrive to get in his wa^.
Down go the luclfers in the mud, and the professional sets up a piteous howl. The gentleman is
ashamed of having done so much mischief, and to quiet Uie complainant who is generally of the softer
sex, he gives her many times the worth of her dropped lucifers. ** Famished Beg^rars " seem highly
sucoessful in their own line, but their success demands the natural advantages of a corpse-like fkce, an
emaciated frame, and a power of enduring the winter's cold in rags. Among those endowed with these
requisites, the more accomplished performers have invented many ingenious subtleties. One device is
the " choking dodge." The famished beg^gar seizes on a crust and eagerly devours it ; but he has been
too long without fSood— he tries in vain to swallow it and it sticks in his throat Another devioe is that
of the ^^offal-eaters." These people decline absolutely to eat anything but what they find in the gutters.
When we hear of all the trouble and ingenuity that is expended in deceiving us, we may well feel uiclined
to ask, as a beggar was once asked, *' Don't you think you would have found it more profitable had you
taken to labour or to some honestcr calling than vour present one P" But the candia answer returned
is suggestive. " Well, sir, p'rape I might, he replied ; " but going on the square is so dreadfully con*
fining."— filotenlay Beview, 1662.
BELOBAYIA—BELLS AND CHIMES. 43
BELQEA VIA
WAS ariginaDy applied as a sobriquet to Belgmve and Eaton Squares and the
radiating streets, but is now received as the legitimate name of this aristocratic
quarter. In 1824^ its dte was " the Five Fields," intersected by mud-banks, and ooca>
pied by a few sheds. The clayey swamp retained so mach water, .that no one would
build there ; and the " Fields " were the terror of foot-passengers proceeding from
Liocidon to Qielsea after nightfall. At length, Mr. Thomas Cubitt found the strata to con-
sist of gravel and clay, of considerable depth : the elay he removed, and bwmed into bricks ;^
amd hy building upon the substratwn of gravel, he converted this spot from the most
9»keaUhff to one of the most healthy, to the immense advantage of the ground-land-
lord and the whole metropolis. This is one of the most perfect adaptations of the
means to the end to be found in the records of the building art. In 1829, the same
land, connsting of about 140 acres, was nearly covered with first and second class
the nndeus being Belgrave-square, designed by George Basevi ; the detached
at the angles, by Hardwick, Kendall, and others; the area, originally a
nnrseiy garden, about ten acres. The level is low ; for it has been ascertained that the
gToond-floor of Westboume-terraoe, Hyde Park Crardens, 70 feet above the Thames
hig;b-water mark, is on a level with the attics of Eaton and Belgrave Squares. Yet
Chelsea acquired a proverbial salubrity in the last century by Doctors Arbuthnot^
SkHaiei, Mead, and Caidog^ residing there.
Mr. Tboinas Cubitt* who died in 1856, waa, in Us nineteenth jrear, working ae a joumejman car-
penter: he then took one vovage to India and back as captain's joiner, and on nis return to London
with his aavinafk oommenced bosineee in the metropolis as a carpenter. In about six Tears, upon a tract
of mamd hi GraT'a Inn-road, he erected large workshops. About 18H he engaged with the Duke of
Bcdfind and Lord Southampton for the ground on which Tavistock-square and Crordon-square, with
Wobam-plaoe, and a^loining streets, now stand. In the same year he engaged with the Marquis of West-
miDrter and Mr. Lowndes, to cover liurgeportions of*' the Five Fields," and ground ac^aceut : the resulta
are Belffravfr-aquare, Lowndes-saoare^ Cheahun-place, and other ranges of houses. He subsequentW
CBgagfd to cover the vast open mstrict lying between Eaton-square and the Thames, now Soum Bei-
gravia. W» works and establishment were at Thames Bank: ther were destroyed l^ fire, by
which Mr. Cubitt lost SO.OOOl. ; when he was apprised of the calamity, iiis noble reply was, " Tell the
men thej diall be at work within a week, and I wiU subscribe 0002. towards buyhig them new tools."
IDs large engagements as to Belgrave-square, begun in 1825, had Just been completed in the Tear of his
^ath ; and his own dweUing-house at l>enbie8, in which he died, had only been just finished, as th»
Axture reatdenoe of his £KmilT. His portrait has been painted and engraved. He had two brothers,
Aldcmum Cubftt. twice Loro Mayor ; and Lewis Cubitt, the eminent engineer, architect of the Great
Xorthcni Bailwaj Temdnus.— Jmom* m Of BuUdtr, 1866.
BELLS AND CHIMES.
riiUK histories of the yarious peals of Bells in the metropoUs, and the Societies by
-L which their ringing has been reduced to scientific standards are interesting.
Commencing from the Conquest, we have
Thx Cubfew. — Although the Couvre-feu law was abolished by Henry I., who restored
the ose of lamps and candles at night after the ringing of the Curfew-bell, which had
been prohibited by his predecessors {WiU. Malmesb., foL 88), yet thQ custom of ringing
the bdl long continued ; and in certain parishes of the metropolis, and in some parts
of the conntry, to the present time,
"The curfew tolls the knell of parting day."
Among the charges Erected for the wardmote inquests of London, in the second
mayoralty of Sir Henry Colet (▲.!>. 1495), it is said : " Also yf there be anye paryshe
derke that ryngeth curfewe after the curfewe be ronge at Bowe Chyrche, or Saint
Brydes Chyrche, or Saint Gyles without Cripelgat, all suche to be presented."
(Knight's Life of Dean Colet). The same charge is in the wardmote inquest 1649.
"The church of St. Martin's-le-Grand, with those of Bow, St. Giles's, Cripplegate, and Barkhi, had
its Curf)»w-bell long after the senrilo liOnnction laid on the Londoners had ceased. These were sounded
to give notice tothe inhabitants of those districts to keep within, and not to wander in the streets ;
which were inCested by a set of ruffians, who made a practice of insulting, wounding, robbing, and
mnrderiDg the people whom they happened to meet abroad during the mght."— iS/rj^e'i Stow, v. L
bookiiLp. 106. ' , . , ...
**The Cimvre'fni is still rung, at eight o'clock, at St. Edmund the King. Lombard-street. At
BIshopsffato (St Botolph's); St Leonard's, Sboreditch ; Christchurch, Spitalfields; St Michael's
QoeeStthe; St Hlldrod's, Bread-street ;* St. Antholln's, Budge-row ; and in some other City churches,
• The bell at this ofanreh was silenced by order of Tcstry, December, 1817.
U CURIOSITIES OF LONDON.
there are bells, which are popularly known as the eamvrt'fnif but some of which are really, I beliere
praver-bells.
^* On the southern side of the Thames, the eoKvr&feu was, till within these six or seTen years, nifrhtly
rang at St. George's Church, Borongh."— Mr. Syer Cuming : Proeeedinaa of the BritiMh Ardiaolcgical
A$$oeiaium, April 12, 1848.
Mr. Gaming also states that at St. Peter's Hospital, Newing^ton (the Fishmongers'
AlmshoQses, taken down in 1851), there was " a hell rung every evening from eight
o'clock till nine, which the old parishioners were wont to denominate the eauvre-feu ;
hnt it is now said that this was rung to warn all strangers from the premises, and the
almspeople to their several apartments."
The Carfew was not always rang at eight o'clock, for the sexton in the old play of
the Merry Devil qf Edmonton (4to. 1631) says : —
" Well, 'tis nitu a eloke, 'lis time to rhig curfew."
The Curfew-hell, strictly as such, had prohahly fallen into disuse previous to the time
of Shakspeare, who, in Borneo and Juliet, applies the term to the morning bell : —
"The second cock hath crow'd.
The curfew-bell has rung, 'tis three o'clock."
At Charterhouse, the Chapel-bell (which bears the arms and initials of Thomas
Sutton, the founder, and the date 1631) is rung at eight and nine to warn the absent
pensioner of the approaching hour; and this practice is, we think, erroneously adduced
as a relic of Curfew-ringing.
" There is one peculiarity attached to the ringing, which is calculated to serve the office of the
ordinary passing-bcil ; and that is the number of strokes, which must correspond with the number of
pensioners. So that when a brother-pensioner has deceased, his companions are informed of thdr
loss by one stroke of the bell less than on the preceding evening."— CAronie^* ofCharlerhotue, p. I;^.
The Convre^eu formerly in the collection of the Rev. Mr. Oostling, and so often en^ved, passed
into the possession of Horace Walpole, and was sold at Strawberry Hill, in 1842, to Mr. William Knight.
It is of copper, riveted together, and in general form resembles the " Dutch>oven" of the present oay.
It is stated to have been used for extinguishing a fire, by raking the wood and embers to the back of
the hearth, and then placing the open part of the eouvre-jfeu close against the back of the chimney. In
February, 1842, Mr. Syer Ciuning purchased of a curiosity-dealer in Chancery-lane a eouvr«-/eu closely
resembling Mr. Gostling's; and Mr. Cuming considers both specimens to be of the same age, of the
close of the I5th or early part of the 16th century ; whereas Mr. Gostling's specimen was stated to be
of the Norman period. A third example of the couvre-feu exists in the Canterbury Museum. Another
Couvre-feu was sold by Messrs. Foster, in Pall Mall, April 11, 1866 ; reputed date 1068.
The Bell of the CLOcnABD, or Bell-tower, of the ancient Palace at Westminster
had a curious destination. Although we find the details of building the tower, by King
Edward 111., we find nothing respecting the construction or even placing of the clock,
or the casting of not one, but three bells ; but bell-ropes and a vice or engine are
mentioned. In later accounts (Henry Vl.) we, however, have the expense of maintain-
ing the clock and bells, for the superintendence of which Thomas Clockmaker received
13«. 4d, a year as his salary; he was but a subordinate officer; the account being
rendered by Agnes de la Van, the wife of Jeffirey de la Van, who was himself the
deputy of John Lenham, who is designated '* Custos orologii domini Regis inira pala-
tium suum Westmonasterio." — Rev. J. Hunter, F.S.A. : ArchtBologia, xxxviL 23.
Aubrey, in his Natural BiHory of Wiltshire, ed. Britton, p. 102, has this note :
«The great bell at Westminster, in the Clockiar at the New Palace Yard, 36,000 lib.
weight. • • It was given by Jo. Montacute, Earlo of (Salisbury, I think). Part
of the inscription is thus, sc,* annie ah acuto monte Johannis* " The
three clock-bells when taken down, however, weighed less than 20,000 lb. The metal
of the largest bell is now part of the great bell of St. Paul's Cathedral.
The Gbeat Bell for the Westminster Palace Clock was cast at Norton, near
Stockton-on-Tees, from the design of £. B. Denison, Q.C., in 1856, by Warner and
Sons, Cripplegate ; its metal was nearly as liard as spring-steel, and it cracked in the
sounding at Westminster, before it was attempted to be raised. It was then broken
into pieces, and carted away to Mears*s Foundry, Whitechapel, and there re-cast, with
2^ tons less metal; the clapper weighs about 6 cwt. : the former weighed 12 cwt. It
was raised Nov. 18, 1858 ; weight of bell, 11 J tons : name, " St. Stephen ; " note,
nearer the true £ natural than that of tlie first bell. This great bell having cracked,
the clock for a time struck the quarters on the four qnarter-bells, and the hour also on
the largest of them, which is smaller, but more powerful, as well as sweeter in tone,
than the great bell of St. Paul's : its weight Is 4 tons. The great or hour bell has been
repaired, and is now in use.
BELLS AND CHIMES. 45
St. Pauii'b CathsdhaIi has four bells, — one in the northern, and three in the
KKitliem or dock-tower : the former is tolled for prayer three times a day, and has a
clapper ; bat neither of the four can be raised upon end and rung, as other church-bells.
In the dock-tower are hung two bells for the quarters, and above them is hung the
Great Bdl, on gudgeons or axles, on which it moves when struck by the hammer of
the dodi. It was cast prindpaUy from the metal of a bdl in the clock-tower opposite
Westminster Hall Gate, which, before the Reformation, was named " Edward ;"
subeeqiiently to the time of Henry VIII., as appears by two lines in Eccles's Glee, it
was called "Great Tom," as Gough conjectures, by a corruption of grand ton,
from its deep, sonorous tone. On August 1, 1698, the clochard, or tower, was granted
br WlUiam III. to St. Margaret's parish, and was taken down: when the bell was
foand to wdgh 82 cwt. 2 qrs. 21 lbs., and was bought at \0d, per lb., produdng
S*>5/. 17#. 6<2., for St. Paul's. While being conveyed over the boundary of West-
minster, under Temple Bar, it fell from the carriage ; it stood under a shed in the
Cathedral Yard for some years, and was at length re-cast, with additional metal,
the iDKripUon stating it to have been "brought from the ruins of Westminster."
It was cast in 1709, by Richard Phelps, of Whitechapel, whose successors in the
foondryy Charles and George Mears, state the dimensions, &c., as follows : — " Diameter,
6 feet 9^ inches ; height to top of crown, 6 feet 4\ inches ; thickness at sound bow,
&^ indies; weight, 5 tons 4 cwt. We have a portion of the agreement made between
the Dean and Chapter of St. P&ul's and Mr. Phelps, dated July 8th, 1709, it which it
is stipulated that the hour-bell and quarters should be delivered at the Cathedral by
the Ist of October in the same year."
" The key-note (tonic) or sound of this bell is A flat (perhaps it was A natural,
ai^reeably to the pitch at the time it was cast), but the sound heard at the greatest
distance is that of £ flat, or a fifth above the key-note; and a musical ear, when dose
by, can perceive several harmonic sounds." — W, Farry.
The Ghreat Bell is never used, except for the striking of the hour, and for tolling at
the deaths and funerals of any of the Royal Family, the Bishop of London, the Dean
of the Cathedral ; and the Lord Mayor, should he die in his mayoralty. The same
banmier which strikes the hours has always been used to toll the belt, on the occasion
of a demise; but the sound then produced is not so loud as when the hour is struck,
in consequence of the heavy clock-wdght not being attached when the bell is tolled,
sad f!*™n«g the hammer to strike with greater force than by manual strength.
It was the Westminster *' Great Tom " which the sentind on duty at Windsor
Castle, during the reign of William III., declared to have struck thirteen instead of
twelve times at midnight, and thus cleared himself of the accusation by the relief-
fniard of sleeping upon his post. The story is told of St. Paul's Bell ; but the
Cathedral had no heavy bdl until the above grant by King William, who died in 1702 ;
the drcamstanoe is thus recorded in the Public Advertiser, Friday, June 22, 1770 :—
"Mr. Jdm Hatfield, who died last Monday at his hooie in Glaashoiue Yard, Aldcregate, aged 103
yeaji, was a addier in the rd^ of William and Mair. and the person who was tried and condemned by
a comtHiiartial for iallinff asleep on his daty upon tne Terrace at Windsor. He absolutely denied the
cfaane agamat him, and solemnly declared that he heard St. Paul's clock strike thirteen; the truth of
vti^ was moeh doubted by the court, because of the great distance. But whilst he was under sentence
of death, an affidavit was made by scTeral persons, th^ the clock actually did strike thirteen instead of
twelve ; whereupon he received ms M^jest/s iMirdon."
This striking thirteen, instead of twelve, is mechanically possible^ and was caused by
the lyUng-pieee holding on too long.
The andent Sodeties of Bell-ringers in London, called " College Youths," " Cumber-
land Youths," &c., it is very probable, are relics of the andent Guilds ; for, as early as
the time of Edward the Confessor, there was in Westminster a guild of ringers. They
were re-organized by Henry III. ; and by a patent roll in the 89th year of his reign,
the brethren of the Guild of Westminster, who were appointed to ring the great bells
there, were to recdve annually out of the exchequer 100 shillings — 50 at Easter and 60
at Midiaelmas — until was provided the like sum for them payable out of lands for the
said ringing. And *'that the brethren and thdr successors for ever enjoy all the
privileges and flree customs which they have enjoyed from the time of Edward the Con-
iesnr, to the date of these presents."
In the library of All Souls', Oxon, is a manusaipt of ** The orders agreed upon by
46 CURIOSITIES OF LOIWOK
the company exercising the arte of ringing, knowne and called hy the name of the
Schollers of Cheapsyde, in London, bc^n 2nd Febmary, 1603." This MS. contains
the names of all the members down to the year 1634. After this date, in 1637» the
Society of College Youths was established by Lord Brereton, Sir Cliff Clifton* and
several other gentlemen, for the practice of ringing. They used to ring at St.
Martin's Vintry, on College-hill, near Doctors' Commons, npon a peal of rax bells.
This church was burnt in the Great Fire of London, and never rebuilt; but the
Society still retains the name derived from College-hill, and has in its possession a
massive silver bell, which formed the top of the staff which used to be carried by the
beadle of the Society when the members attended divine service at Bow Church, on
the anniversary of its foundation, and other occasions ; aUo an old book, in which the
names of its members are entered. This book was lost at the time of the Great Fire,
but was subsequently recovered. The names in it are suffident to show that ringing
was conudered an amusement worthy of nobles, divines, and scholars. Among the
notables who have been elected members are the Hon. Robert Cedl (Marqois of
Salisbury), Sir John Bolles and Sir Watkin W. Wynne, baronets ; Sirs Frauds Withina^
Martin Lomly; Richard Everard, Henry Tulse, aldermen, lUchard Atkins, Henry
Chauncey, Thomas Samnell, Gilbert Dolbin, William Culpeper; John Tash, alderman;
Henry Hicks, and Watkin Lewis, knights.
About 1700, another Sodety was formed, which was called *'The London Sdiolars."
In 1746, the name was changed to the present title, " The Cumberland Youths," in
consequence of the great victory under the Duke of Cumberland, at the battle of
Oulloden in that year. The London Scholars rang the beUs of Shoreditch Church
as the victorious Duke passed by on his return from the battle ; for which a medal of
the Duke and his chargers was presented to the Sodety, and is still worn by the
master of the Sodety of Cumberland Youths, at their general meetings. The St.
James's Youths, another sodety, was established on St. James's-day, 26th July, 1824,
at St. James's Church, Clerkenwell. The grandsire ringing prindpally belongs to
this sodety, as it is the first rudiment of the half-pull ringing. About 1841, the
Sodety rang a peal of 12,000 changes of grandsire quatres at All Saints' Church,
Fulham ; also 7825 of grandsire dnques at St. Martm's-in-the-Fields, in 1837 ; and
many other peals besides, as recorded in London church-belfries. The head-quarters
of the sodety are at St. Clement Danes, Strand. The parochial ringing <diurches
are St Andrew's, St. Sepuldire's, St. Dunstan's in the West, St. Clement's, West-
minster Abbey, St. John's, Waterloo-road; and St. Mary's, Lambeth :—
There are certain Bells still remainmg in London, notwithstanding the Greot Fire, which have
historical notes. That, for instance, at the top of the Bell-tower which ftiiioins the GoTemor's lodgings
In the Tower, which was probahly tolled at the execution of Lady Jane Or^, Anne Bolejn, and other
State prisoners, and probably sounded alarms of fire and other calamities in early days. This bell
seems to have been more particularly used by the Tower authorities than that in St. Peter's Church,
which stands near the spot where the scaffold was usually erected. The bells of St. Bartholomew's,
Smithfield, are old, and were probablT rung when the Court has come to the tournaments and jousting
at Smithfield. With the exception of Westminster Abbey, St. Saviour's, All Hallows Barking, Cripple-
gate, and Old St. Pancras, there are few of the ancient bell-towers of the metropolis remaining. Several
of the bells, however, may have been saved fh>m the ruins of the Great Fire. There is uso the bell
of the Charter-house, which has tolled at the departure of a brotiier from soon after the death of Thomas
Sutton. Many will still remember that, while the fire of the second Boyal Exchange was raging, the
self-acting bells played merrily the tune of " There is nae luck about the house," and eveutnalfy fcU
with a crash amidst the blazing ruins.— OommiMiioa^iu to the Builder,
The curious custom of a new rector tolling himself into lus new benefice, is obserred
in the City churches. Before the Reformation, no layman was allowed to be a
''ringer," and the eccleuasiics had to perform their office in surplice. The " toUing-
in" is as follows : — " The rector is met at the door of the church by the trustees of the
church property belonging to the parish, and the churchwardens. Having obtained
possession of the keys of the church, the new rector unlocks the doors : then, having
closed them, he proceeds alone to the belfry, and for a few minutes tolls one of the
bells, thus complying with the custom imposed by the ordinances of the Chiurch, by
announcing to the parishioners at large his acceptance of the rectorship, and his pos-
session of the church property.
Bow Bells are of ancient celebrity; and it was from the extreme fondness of the
atizens for them in old times that a genuine Cockney has been supposed to be bom
BELLS AND GHIMBS. 47
within the Bound of "Bow Bells. Aooording to Fynes Moriaon, the Londoners, and all
witfam the somod of Bow Bells, are, in reproach, called Cockneys, and eaters of '< bat-
tered toesta." Beaumont and Fletcher speak of *' Bow Bell sockers," ».e., as Mr.
Dyoe properly explains it^ ''children bom vrithin the soond of Bow Bells."
From a hook of ofdixumoes of the City of Worcester, Mr. Bnrtt quotes certain annual mmnents,
diiins f^om verr earlr thnea, for ringing "day-bell" and "bow-bell," the latter being doabtfeas the
aame as the eorfew, althoogh now mng at eight instead of at nine, as at the time of the ordinances.
There is no loeal explanation of the term bow-bell, bat Mr. Bartt considers Mr. WolTs suggestion
fieMible— that as the curfew bell of London was mng at Bow Chnrch, the name of that church was
adofrtcd IB other places, and applied to tiu belL— P»ve««i»ii^« <ifthe Briti$h Arcktoologieai jMfoeiaUoH,
In 1469, by an Order of Common Comicil, Bow bell was to be rang nightly at
nine o'clock, and lights were to be exhibited in the steeple to direct the traveller.
When the church was reboilt^ the belfry was prepared for twelve bells, bat only
eight were placed : these got ont of order, and in 1758 the citizens petitioned the
Tt^brjt that the tenor bell being the completest in Europe, and the other seven
▼ery inferior, they requested to be allowed, at their own expense, to recast the
seven smaller bells, and to add two trebles. This was permitted, after Dance and
Chambers, the architects, had reported that "neither such additional weight, nor
any weight that can be put upon the steeple, will have any greater effect than
the heDs now placed there." Accordingly, the set of ten bells was completed by
subscription, and was first mng June 4, 1762, the anniversary of the birth of King
Geocge IIL In the year 1822, some fear was expressed that the use of the bells
would endanger the steeple, when, by order of vestry, the bells were rung for trial;
and fieom a subsequent examination, there did not appear to be any cause for alarm.
The present set is much heavier, and much more powerful in tone, than the first peal
of hells: it requires two men to ring the largest (the tenor, 63 cwt., key C), in conse-
quenoe of its not having been properly hung. In 1837, the College Youths rang
a grand peal of Stedman quatres on Bow Bells ; also, in 1840, a peal- of triple ten,
at the same church. Mr. W. H. Burwash, the sexton of St. James's, Clerkenwell,
rang the triple to both peals, and -conducted them; and Mr. A. C. Frost rang the
tenor to both : weight, 2 tons 13 cwt. 22 lb., stated to be the greatest bell rung by a
sngle man in England.
9t. Bbidx's has a fine peal. A century ago, the College Youths, at their own
espense, placed the two small bells in St. Bride's tower, to make the present peal of
twdve bells; and, about 1730, twelve members of the Society rang the first peal of
triple-hob maximus that was ever known to be rung on twelve bells. Rear-Admiral Sir
Francis Qiey and Lord Chief- Justice Hale were members of this Society, and rang
in the peaL There is still a record of this feat in St. Bride's ringing-room. On
Monday evening, ICarch 13, 1843, the Cumberland Society rang a complete peal of
cinques oo Stedman's principle, consisting of 5146 changes, in four hours two
Bunutes, at St. Bride's; it being the first peal in that scientific method ever performed
on the bells.
Chbistchitbch, Spitalfields*, Bells are scarody inferior to any in the kingdom; the
tenor weighs 44 cwt., or 4928 lbs. In the spring of 1836, by a fire which broke out
in the belfry, and reached the loft, the tenor fell upon the other bells, and the whole
were shivered to pieces, or fused by the heat of the conflagration; the dock and
dnmes were also destroyed : they have all been replaced.
9t. Lxokabd's, Shoreditch. — ^Here the London Sodety of Cumberland accomplished
tbdr greatest achievement in olden times— a peal of 12,000 changes of triple-bob
royals, which took nine hours and five minutes on 10 bells, March 27th, 1784, of which
there is a record in the tower, written on copper. The Sodety, in 1820, added two
new small bells to St Leonard's, to make a peal of 12 bells, at their own cost—
orer 100/. ; but it is to be regretted that the great bell of the peal has been cracked.
St. MASTiyB-iir-THX-FiXLDS. — ^The peal of 12 bells has been put in good ringing
order, and all the bells made to strike true, to the satLsfiiction of the parochial ringers
ind the Cumberland Sodety, who regard the ringing as now more ea^ and more
48 OUBIOSITIES OF LOin)ON.
merry, as well as more masically tme. The hammer of the church-clock, too, lins
been altered so as to strike downwards instead of upwards, thus giving greater force
and clearness to the tone. The ringing-room itself has also been improved ; boxes
have been placed to the bells, and the place lit with gas, as well as the staircase and
bell-chamber. On Nov. 19, 1862, the CumberUiud Society rang here a peal of
5050 changes of Stedman's quatres, in three hours and twenty-eight minutes, in
honour of the Prince of Wales attaining his majority.
St. Michaiel's, ComhiU, had in Stow's time, six bells, the sixth being " rung by
one man by the space of 160 yeares"; (?) Upon one St. James's night, on the
ringing of a peal, during a storm, the lightning entered at the north window, which so
terrified the ringers that "they lay down as dead." The present tower, rebailt
1723, has a fine peal of 12 bells, with which, in March, 1866, twelve members of the
College Youths rang a fine and good peal of treble-bob maximus, consisting of 5088
changes, occupying three hours and fifty -two minutes ; this being the first peal on
treble-bobs, on twelve hells ever rung, when the tenor man conduct^ the peal,
St. Sayioitb's, Southwark, has a beautiful tenor and 12 large bells ; a spacious ringing-
room with great marble tablet, put up at the expense of the various societies of ringers
in London : a record of a g^nd peal by the Cumberland Society cost 20 guineas.
The 12 bells of St. Saviour's, were not rung at the opening of New London Bridge,
in 1831, on account of the alleged insecurity it would occamon to the tower. Tho
tenor of this peal weighs 52^ cwt. ; that of Bow, 53 cwt.
St. Sepulohbb'b Bell has a melancholy history. In 1605, Mr. R. Dowe left 50/.
to this parish, on condition that a person should go to Newgate in the still of the night
before every execution-day, and, standing as near as possible to the cells of the con-
demned, should, with a hand-bell (which he also left), give twelve solenm toUs^ with
double strokes, and then deliver this impressive exhortation : —
" All yon that in the condemned hole do He,
Prepare Ton, for to-morrow yon fhall die;
IVatch, all, and pray, tho hour is drawing near
That ;ron before tho Almighty must appear;
Examine well yoarselves, in time repent,
That you may not t' eternal flames be sent.
And when St. Sepulchre's Bell to-morrow tolls,
The Lord have mercy on your souls I
Fast twelve o'clock 1"
Dowe likewise ordered that the great bell of the church should toll on the monung ;
and that, as the criminals passed the wall to Tyburn, the bellman or sexton should
look over it and say, "All good people, pray heartily unto Qod for these poor sinners,
who are now going to their death ;" for which he who says it is to receive 1^. 6». 8c^.;
let us hope that the gift ere long will be a free one.
St. Stephen's, Rochester-row, Westminster. — Miss Burdett Coutts has given to
this church, built at her cost, a fine peal of eight bells, with a tenor of 1 ton 6 cwt. ;
and to St. Ann's, Highgate-rise, a peal of eight bells.
Chives. — The only church chimes now existing in the metropolis are those of St.
Clement Danes, in the Strand; St. Giles's, Cripplegate; St. Dionis, Fenchurch-street ;
and St. Bride's, Fleet-street. The Cripplegate chimes are the finest in London ; they
were constructed by a poor working man. Formerly, several churches in London, include
ing those of St. Margaret and St. Sepulchre, had chime-hammers annexed to their bells.
In each Royal Exchange, the business has been regulated by a beU : in Gresham'a
original edifice was a tower " containing the bell, which twice a day summoned mer-
chants to the spot — at twelve o'clock at noon, and at six o'clock in the evening."
(Burgon's Life and Times of Sir T, Oresham, it 345).
The Chimes at the Royal Exchange, destroyed by fire in 1838, played, at intervals of
three hours, « God save the Queen," " Life let us cherish," " Tho Old 104th Psalm (on
Sundays), and " There's nae luck about the house," which last air they played at
twelve o'clock on the night of the fire, just as the flames reached the chime-loft.
In the new Exchange, chimes have not been forgotten. The airs have been arranged
BEBMONBSEY. 49
bj tf r. £. Taylor, the Greabam Professor of Muuc ; which Mr. Dent has applied on
the dume-harrel. The airs are : —
1. A Psalm tone, bj Henry Lawes, the friend of Miltou ; it is in the key of B flat, so as to exhibit
the capafaUity of the ehimea to play in different keys.
2. God save the Qneen, in E flat. 3. Bole Britannia.
4b An air selected by Professor Taylor to exhibit the power of the bells. The key in which the bells
are set la E flWL Thiere are fifteen bells, and two hammers to several, so as to play rapid passages.
There axe fireqaentiy three hammers striking different bells simnltaneoosly, and sometimes five. -The
Boecs of the buls are as follows:— B flat, A natural, A flat, 6, F, E flat, D natural, D flat, C, B flat, A
aatnral. Aflat,G,F,and£flat. The flrst beU, B flat, weighs 4cwt.261bs., and iU cord, 8cwt. 2qrs. 6lbs.;
the 6x1 bells, A flat, 6, F, and £ flat, weigh severally, lOcwt. Iqr. 9 lbs., 12cwt. 2qr8. 27 lbs.,
IS e«t 2 qrs. 141be., and 23 cwt. 2 qrs. M lbs. The united weight of them is 131 c wt 1 qr. They were
cast by Mcaan. Meara, of WhitechapeL
BSBMONDSUT
IS a lai^ parish in Surrey, adjoining the borongh of Sonthwark ; and named BeoT'
«i«jKf # eye, or island, firom its having been the property of some Saxon or Banish
Thane, and the land being insulated by watercourses connected with the Thames. In
1082, a wealthy citizen built here a convent, wherein some Cluniac Monks settled in
1089, to whom William Rufns gave the manor of Bermondsey ; and numerous donn-
tiofks and grants followed, until this became one of the most considerable alien priories
in England. From its vidnity to London, the monastery occasionally became the
rendenoe of royal personages. Katherine of France^, widow of Henry Y., retired to
this aanctuaiy, and died here, Jan. 8, 1437; and Elizabeth Widvile, relict of
Edward IV., was committed to the custody of the monks by her son-in-law, Henry VII.,
and ended her days here, in penury and sorrow, in 1492. Among the persons of note
interred here is said to have been Margaret de la Pole, wife of Edmund de la Pole,
afterwards Earl of SnflTolk, who was executed by Henry VIII., in 1513. The Abbey
oocapied the ground between Grange-walk (where was a farm) and Long-walk, which
was a passage between the monastic buildings and the conventual church ; the latter a
little south of the present parish church of St. Mary Magdalene, originally founded by
the Priors of Bermondsey for their tenantry ; rebuilt in 1680, and since repaired.
Among the communion-plate is an ancient silver alms-dish, supposed to have belonged
to the abbey.
A drawing formerly in Mr. Upcott's collection shows the monastery as rebuilt early in
the reign of Edward III., and the cloisters and refectory in 1380. After the surrender of
the establishment to Henry VIII., he granted it to Sir Robert Southwell, Master of the
RoHs : it was by him sold to Sir Thomas Hope, who, in 1545, pulled down the ancient
I^iorj Church, and with the materials built Bermondsey House, where died Thomas
Batdifle^ Earl oi Sussex (Lord Chamberlain to Queen Elizabeth), in 1583. The east
gate at the monastery was taken down about 1760 ; the great gate-house was nearly
entire In 1806, shortly after which all the ancient buildings were removed, and Abbey-
street built on their site. Bermondsey-square now occupies the great dose of the
Abliey, mod Grange-road was its pasture-ground, extending to the farm ; the andent
% Neckinger, was once navigable from the Thames to the Abbey. Adjoining
an Almonry, or Hosfntal, for " in^gent children and necessitous converts," erected
by Prior Richud in 1213, but not to be traced after the Reformation.
There is, in the Spa-road, St. James's Chapel, a Grecian edifice, opened in 1829 ;
tbe altar-piece is a large picture of *' the Ascension," painted by John Wood, in 1844^
and the prize jncture selected from among eighty competitors for 5002. bequeathed for
this purpose by Mr. Harcourt, a parishioner, and awarded by Eastlake and Haydon.
St. ^vd's GoUiic Church and Sdiools were opened in 1848 ; and Christ Church and
Schools^ Neckinger-road (Romanesque), in 1849.
Hie Roman Catholic population of Bermondsey exceeds 5000 persons ; they have a
Urge chorch near Dockhoad, opened in 1835. Precisely three centuries after the Bis-
sohition of the Monasteries, was founded here, in 1838, a Convent for the " Sisters of
Mercy." The inmates are mostly ladies of fcntune, and support a school for 200 chil-
dren. Sister Mary, the Lady Barbara Eyre, second daughter of the sixth Earl of
Kewboigh, took the vows December 12, 1839 ; with Miss Ponsonby, Sister Vincent.
At Bomondsey, perhaps, is carried on a greater variety of trades and manufitcturea
60 CURIOSITIES OF LONDON.
than in any other parish of the kingdom. It has heen the seat of the Leather Market
for nearly two centuries ; its series of tidal streams from the Thames twice in twoity-
four hours supplying water for the tanners and leather-dressers. At the Neckinger
Mills here, nearly half a million of hides and skins are oonyerted into leather yearly ;
and in the great Skin Market are sold the skins from nearly all the sheep slaughtered
in London. Steam-machinery is much employed in the manufactories ; and in Long-
lane Lb an engine chimney-shaft 175 feet high. Here is Christy's Hat Manufhctory,,
employing 500 persons, uid considered the largest estahlishment of the kind in the
world. Here, too, ahound paper and lead mills, chemical works, host and ship
huilders, mast and hlock makers, rope and sail makers, coopers, turpentine works, &c.
The tidal ditches, with their filthy dwellings, produced cholera in 1832 and 1848-49 ^
in the latter year 189 deaths occurred in 1000 inhabitants. Here is Jacob's Island,
so powerfully pictured in Dickens's novel of Oliver Twist.
Bermondsey Spa, a chalybeate spring, discovered about 1770, was opened in 1780, a»
a minor Vauxhall, with fireworks, and a picture-model of the riege of Gibraltar, painted
by Keyse, and occupyuig about four acres. He died in 1800, and the gardoiwas shut
up about 1805. There are tokens of the place extant ; the Spa-road is named from it.
In the parish was bom Mary Johns, the daughter of a cooper, in 1752, who wrote
the Lord's Prayer in the compass of a silver penny.
In the Registers, 1604, is the " forme of a solemne Vowe made betwixt a Man and
his Wife, having been longe absent, through which occasion the Woman b^nge married
to another Man, took her again."
Viewed from the Greenwich Railway, which crosses its north-eastern side, Ber-
mondsey presents a curious picture of busy life, amid its streams and tan-pits, its narrow
streets, dose rents and lanes, by no means tributary to the public health. Yet the
district has long been noted for longevity; and from 90 to 105 ^ears are not uncommon
in the burial registers.
JSETENAL aUEEN,
A VILLAGE or large gp-een, formerly a hamlet of Stepney, but made a parish (St.
Matthew) in 1743. The old English ballad of The BUnd Beggar qf Bednall
Oreen has ^ven the district a long celebrity ; the story " decorates not only the sign-
posts of the publicans, but the staff of the parish beadle." — (L^sons.) The incidents
have been poetically wrought into a drama by Sheridan Enowles. The manaon tradi-
tionally pointed to as " the Blind Beggar's House" was, however, built by John Thorpe^
in 1570, for a dtizen of London, and called after him, '* Eirby's Castle." Pepys describea
his visits to this house, then Sir W. Rider's, to dinner : his ** fine merry walk with the
ladies alone after dinner, in the garden ; the greatest quantity of strawberries he ever
saw, and good." It was then said that only some of the outhouses, and not the man-
sion, were built by the Blind B^^gar of Bethnal Green.
Robert Ainsworth, author of Uie Latin Dictionary which bears his name, kept an
academy at Bethnal Green.
Here was a large house siud to have been a palace of Bishop Bonner's, and taken
down in 1849, in forming Victoria Park. Between 1839 and 1849, there were built
here ten district churches, prindpally through the exertions of Dr. Blomfield, Bishop
of London : the tenth of these churohes (St. Thomas's) was erected at the sole cost of
a private individual. Silk-weavers live in great numbers at Bethnal Green.
NichoUtreei^ New Kichol-sireet, Half Nichoi-street, Nichol-row, Tnrvil-street oomprlsing within the
same area numerous blind courts and aUeys, form a denselj-crowded district in Bethnal Green. Among
its inhabitants may be found street vendors of every kind of produce, travellers to furs, tramps,
dog^flmciers, dog-stealen, men and women sharpers, shoplifters and pickpockets. It abonnds with
the young Arabs of the streets, and its outward moral aegradation is at once apparent to anv one
who passes that way. Here the police are certain to be found, day and night, their presence being
required to quell riots and to preserve decency. Sunday is a day much devoted to pet pigeons and
to Dird-singmg dobs : prizes are given to such as excel in note, and a ready sale kmIows eacli
awiurd. Time thus employed was formerly devoted to cock-fighting. In this locality, twenty-live
years ago, an empli^er of labour, Mr. Jonathan Duthoit, made an attempt to influence tne people fbr
good by the hire of a room for meeting purposes. The first attendance consisted of one person. Per-
sistent eflbrts were, however, made ; other rooms have trom time to time been taken and enlarged ; hero
is a Hall for Christian instruction ; and another for Educational purposes ; Illustrated Lectures are
delivered; a Loan Library has been established, also a Clothing Club and Fenny Bank, and Training
Classes for indostrlal pozposss.— ^UAmMSHss 1862.
BETHLEM HOSPITAL. 51
SETRLEM OR BETRLEREM ROSFITAL.
THE bistoqr of tiie word Bedlam, by which this Hospital was called, within recollec-
tion, has been the subject of mndb curious inquiry. Our lexicographers commonly
refer iti introduction into our language to the conversion of a religious house
of tins name into a lunatic asylum, or about 820 years ago. The word Bedlem,
however, ocean in Tyndale's quarto testament, twenty or two-and-twenty years
before tiie above date; and Mr. Gairdner has proved it to have been so applied
It Is quite true, vm Mr. Gairdner, that the Hospital was ffianted to the CIW of London for the
porpoae to wMeh it b stUl applied, either by Henxy the Eighth or Edward the Sixth ; bat it is a mia-
take to auppoae it had never been lo oaed before. The roval grant changed the government of the
homital, not its nae. Honaatie institationa, whatever evils thej may have oeen answerable for, wore
mwtoiibtedly tbb medlnm of mnch practical good that we seldom give them credit for. and to mental
and bodily msMife tli^ offtred snch aaaiatance as the skill and science of the age afforded. I have
mjteU m£t with a paasage in Uie works of Tyndale's great opponent, Sir Thomas More, who died
eren before (a mar^, too, thongh for a diffiarent canse;, which proves bqrond a doubt that Bethlehem
Hoapiial was a place for Innatica before the dissolution of the religious houses. "Think not," he
»ja, in hia treatiae De Qfutbtmr 2f<ni$$imu (page 73 of his English works),^** Think not that every
thmr is pleaant that men for madnea langne at. For thou shalt in Bedleem see one laugh at the
knoadng of Us own bed against a post» and yet tiiere is little pleasure therdn."
Bethlem Hospital originated in an estabUsbment founded as a " Priory of Canons,
with brethren and sisters^'' in 1246, by Simon fltz-Mary, a sheriff of London ; towards
which he gave all his lands in St. Botolph without Bishopsgate, being the spot after-
wards known as Old Bethlem, now Liverpool-street. This priory stood on the east
side of Moorfields, from which it was divided by a deep ditch. It is described as " an
Hospital " in 1830 ; in 1346 it was received under the protection of the City of Loudon,
who purchased the patronage, lands, and tenements in 1546 ; and in the same year,
Henry YIII. gave the Hospitid to the City, though not before he had endeavom'ed to
sell it to them -. it was united to Bridewell Hospital in 1557.
Bethlem ia, however, first mentioned as an hospital for lunatics in 1402. The
earliest establishment of the kind in the metropolis appears, from Stow, to have been
** by Charing Cross," though when founded is unknown ; « but it was said that some
time a king of England, not liking distraught and lunatic people to remain so near liis
palace caused them to be removed farther off to Bethlem f to which Hospital the
site of the house in question bebnged till 1830, when it was exchanged with the Crown
to make way for the improvements at Charing Cross.
The priory bmldings becoming dilapidated, another Hospital was built in 1675-76,
on the sooth side of Moorfields, north of the London Wall, on ground leased to the
GovemoTB by the Corporation for 999 years, at Is. annual rent» if demanded. This, the
centre of Old BetUem Hospital, cost 17,OOOZ., raised by subscription : it was designed
by Robert Hooke ; but there is no foundation for the traditional story of its so closely
resembling the piUaoe of the Tuileries, that Louis XIV., in retaliation, ordered a copy
of oar King's palace at St. James's to be built for his offices.
This second Bethlem was 540 feet in length and 40 feet in breadth ; it was sur-
rounded by gardens, in one of which the convfdescent lunatics were allowed to walk ;
the whole was enclosed by a high wall and gates ; the posterns of the latter were sur-
mounted with two finely-sculptured figures of Having and Melancholy Madness, by
Cains Gabriel dbher, the fiither of Colley.
In 1733, two wings were added for incurable patients. In 1754, the Hospital is
described as ooossting chiefly of two galleries, one over the other, divided in the
middle by two iron gates, so that all the men were placed at one end of the house and
all the women at the other; there was also ''a batlung-place for the patients, so con-
trived as to be a hot or cold bath." The Hospital then held 150 patients. The
favourite resort of the poor inmates was the Fore-street end of the building, from the
windows of which we have seen them look out upon the unsfflictcd passengers in the
streets bebw. Here Nat Lee, the tragic poet, was confined four years; he did
not live long after lus releaie. Here too was confined Oliver Cromwdl's gigantic porter,
X 2
52 CURIOSITIES OF LONDON.
who 'is traditioDAlly said to have heen the original of one of Cibher*8 figures. Hannah
Snell, the female soldier, who received a pension for wounds received at the nege of
Fondlcherry, died a patient of Bethlem, in 1792. '' Tom o' Bedlam" was the name
given to certain ont-door patients, for whom room conld not be found in the Hospital.
They wore upon their arms metal plates, licensing them to go a-begging, which many
cunning impostors adopted, until a caution from the Governor put a stop to the fraud.
In I7d9, the Hospital was reported by a committee to be in a very bad condition :
it had been built in sixteen months, upon part of the City ditch filled in with rubbish*
so that it was requisite to shore-up and underpin the walls. At length it was resolved
to rebuild the Hospital ; and in 1810 its site, 2^ acres, was exchanged for about 11
acres in St. George's Fields, including the gardens of the in&mous Bog and Duck.
The building fund was increased by g^nts of public money, and benefactions, from the
Corporation, City companies, and private individuals. The first stone of the new
edifice, for 200 patienta, was laid in April 1812, and completed in August 1815, at a
cost of 122,572/. St., the exact sum raised for the purpose. It was built from three
prize designs, superintended by the late Mr. Lewis : it consists of a centre and two
wings, the entrance being beneath a hexnstyle Ionic portico of six columns, 'with the
royal arms in the pediment, and underneath the motto : — Hen. nn. ssGB * fuk-
DATYH * CITIUH * LASOiTJLS * PESFECIT. Two wings, for which the Government
advanced 25,144/., were appropriated to criminal lunatics. Other buildings have since
been added, for 166 patients, by Sydney Smirke, A.R.A., the first stone of which was
laid July 26, 1838, when a public breakfut was given at a cost of 464/. St. to the
Hospital, and a narrative of the proceedings was printed at a charge to the charity of
140/. The entire building is three stories in height, and .897 feet in length. To the
centre was added a large and lofty dome in 18 15 ; the diameter is 37 feet^ and it is
about 150 feet in height firom the ground. The Hospital and grounds extend to (^ght
acres ; the adjoining three acres being devoted to the House of Occupation, a branch
of Bridewell HospitaL
In the entrance-hall are placed Gibber's two statues, fVom the old Hospital : they
are of Portland stone, and were restored by the younger Bacon in 1814 ; they arc
screened by curtains, which are only withdrawn upon public occasions : some of the
irons formerly used are also shown as curiosiUes, The basement and three floors are
divided into galleries. The improved management was introduced about 1816. The
patients employ themselves in knitting and tailoring, in laundry-work, at the needle,
and in embroidery ; the women have pianos and occasionally dance in the evening ; the
men have billiards and bagatelle tables, newspapers, and periodicals ; and they play in
the grounds at trap-ball, cricket, fives, leap-firog, &c Others work at their trades, in
which, though dangerous weapons have been entrusted to them, no mischief has en-
sued, and the employment often induces speedy cure. The railed-in fire-places and
the bone knives are almost the only visible peculiarities ; there are cells lined and
floored with cork and india-rubber for refractory patients. The building is fire-proof
throughout, and warmed by hot air and water.
From the first reception of lunatics into Bcthlem, their condition and treatment
was wretched in the extreme. In a visitation of 1403 are mentioned iron chains with
locks and keys, and manacles and stocks. In 1598, the house was reported so loath-
some and so filthily kept, as not fit to be entered ; and the inmates were termed
prisoners. In a record of 1619 are expenses of straw and fetters. Up to the year
1770, the piibhc were admitted to see the lunatics at Id. each, by which the Hospital
derived a revenue of at least 400/. a year : hence Bethlem became one of ** the sights '
of London/' and such was the mischief occasioned by this brutal and degrading prac- i
tice, that, to prevent disturbances, the porter was annually sworn a constable, and i
attended with other servants to keep order. So late as 1814, the rooms resembled
dog-kennels ; the female patients chained by one arm or leg to the wall, were covered I
by a blanket-gown only, the feet being naked ; and they lay upon straw. The male
patients were chained, handeufied, or locked to the wall; and diains were universally
substituted for the strait-waistcoat. One Norris, stated to be refractory, was chained I
by a strong iron ring, riveted round his neck, his arms pinioned by an iron bar, and
his waist similarly secured, so that he could only advance twelve inches from the wall* '
BETHLEM HOSPITAL, 63
the length of his chsdn ; and thus he had heen " encaged and chained more than twelve
▼ears ; " yet he read hooks of various kinds, the newspapers daily, and conversed ration-
ally : a drawing was made of Korris in his irons, and he was visited hy several memhers
of Parliamentt shortly after which he died, doubtless from the cruel treatment he had
received. This case led to a Parliamentary inquiry, in 1815, which brought about the
adoption of a new method of treatment in Bethlem ; although, in two years, 660/. were
expended from the Hospital funds in opposing the bill requisite for the beneficial
' The last female lunatic released from her fetters was a most violent patient, who
had been diained to her bed eight years, her irons riveted, she being so dang^ous that
the matron feared being murdered if she released her; in May 1838, she was still in
the New Hosiatal, and was the only patient permitted to sleep at night with her door
unlocked ; the slightest appearance of restraint exasperated her ; but on her release
she became tranqi^ and happy in nnrsng two dolls given to her, which she imagined
to be her children.
The criminal lunatics were formerly maintained and clothed here at the expense of
Government^ and cost nearly 4000/. a year. Most of the criminals were confined
for murder, committed or attempted. Amongst them was Margaret Nicholson for
attempting to stab George III. ; she died here in 1828, having been confined forty*
two years. In 1841, ^eid James Hadfield, who had been confined here since 1802, for
shooting at George III., at Drury Lane Theatre. He was a gallant dragoon, and his
lace was seamed with scars got in battle before lus crime : he employed himself with
writing verses on the death of his birds and cats, his only society in his long and weary*
in^ imprisonment. Many, including Edward Oxford, who so nearly assassinated theQueen,
in 1&40; Macnaughten, who murdered Sir Robert Peel's secretary, at Charing Cross;
and the celebrated Captain Johnston, who under such terrible drcumstances killed all
the crew of his ship, the Toty; were kept at Bethlehem, but have been removed to the
great Broadmoor Asylum, built by Government near the Wellington College Station
of the South Eastern Biulway.
Bethlem stands in eleven acres of ground, which is judidously laid out. It was placed
under the jurisdiction of the Commissioners in Lunacy in 1853. In 1841 only 23 '60
per cent. dT the patients attended chapel on Sunday, aud there was a weekly average
of 2*64 per cent, under restraint ; in 1862, 55 per cent, attended chapel, and
restraint had been for several years unknown. Of the 115 curable patients in the
bo^ital in 1862 only eight were unemployed, and of the 61 incurables 24. The
annual cost of maintenance, furniture, and clothing was about 86/. in 1862. The
fcJlowing cases are inadmisuble lunatics : those who have been insane for more than
twelve months ; who have been discharged uncured from other hospitals ; afflicted with
idiotcy, "pt^, or epileptic or convulsive fits, or any dangerous disease. The patients
are not allowed to remain more than one year : preference is given to patients of the
educated dasses, to secure accommodation for whom no one will be received who is
a proper object for admission into a county lunatic asylum.
Although Bethlem receives only those cases of madness which it deems most likely
to terminate in recovery ; of these simple and select cases nearly 40 per cent, (including
deaths) are eventually discharged from Bedlam unreheved. ** The annual rate of mor-
tality in Bethlem is 7 per cent. ; in other asylums, from 13 to 22 per cent." — {Eegistrar'
OeneraTs Beport, 1850.)
The income of Bethlem and Bridewell Hospitals amounts to about 38,000/. per
annum, mostly the accumulation of private benevolence.
From November 22, 1841, Bethlem Hospital, with its purlieus and approaches, was
considered to be within the rules of the Queen's Bench, by an order of that Court,
until their abolition.
Patients are admitted by petition to the Governors from a near relation or friend ;
forms to be obtained at the Hospital. The visiting days are two Mondays in each
month ; for taking in and discharging patients, every Friday.
Strangers are admitted, on Tuesdays, Wednesdays, Thursdays, and Fridays, to view
the Hospital by Governors' orders ; and foreigners and Members of Parliament by
orden fhmi the president, treasurer, or Secretary of State ; but the average yearly
54 CURIOSITIES OF LONDON.
nnniber of vintors does not exceed 550. Still, few mghts can be more interesting than the
present condition of the interior of Bethlem. The scrupulous cleanliness of the house, the
decent attire of the patients, and the unexpectedly small number of those under restraint,
(sometimes not one person throughout the building), lead the visitors, not unnaturally,
to conclude that the management of lunatics has here attained perfection ; while the
quiet and decent demeanour of the inmates might almost make him doubt that he is
really in a madhouse. The arrangements, however, are comparatively, in some in-
stances, defective : the building being partly on the plan of the old Hospital in Moor-
fields, in long galleries, with a view to the coercive system there pursued, is, conse-
quently, ill adapted to the present improved treatment.
Above the door of the entnmce>lodge are sculptured the arms of the Hospital,— ilf^Mrf, two ban »able,
aJUe qfjhepointt gtUeg, on a ehi^ axure an 4Mle of tixlteu rc^» or, okargoi wUk a jAaie^ thereon a
eroee of the thirds between a human ekuU placed on a eup, on the dexter eide, and a baahet qf WaettU
bread. Mqf the fifths on Vie einieter.
Bishop Tanner obserres, however, that he was hiformed by John Anstis, Qarter Khig of Anns, that
the ensigns were, Anrent, two bars sable, a label of three points gnles, on a chief azure a comet with
ten rays or, oppressed with a torteau charged with a plain cross of the field, between a chalice or, with
an hosty of the first, and a basket of the same. With respect to any signification to be assigned to
thesebearings, there is, probabiT, no positive information extant; but, supposing them to be really
ancient, it mav.be observed, that the bars and fi)e in the principal part of the shiekUi were, most likely,
the arms of Simon Fitz-H]U7, the founder, which would account for (heir very prominent situation.
The ^toile, or blazing star, on the blue chle( evidently refers to the star seen in the Aj at the birth of
Christ, wUoh led the wise men to Bethlehem, and, therefore, properly became its peculiar badge ;
whilst the cross in the centre indicates the crucifixion of the Saviour for all mankind. The basket of
bread has, probably, also an allusion to Bethlehem ; since the best translation of that word is con-
sidered to be " the house of bread," as implying a fertile soil in the production of barley and wheat,
noticed in the book of Ruth, chiqiter iL ; but, as wastell cakes were, anciently, especially used in
Christian ceremonies and festivals, they might be designed as the Englldi emblem of the birth-place of
the Lord. Perhaps, no satisfactory signification can be assigned to the present bearing of a cup con-
taining a skull ; but if the blazon of these arms, given by Anstis to Bisnop Tanner, be accepted, the
chalice, surmounted bv the consecrated wafer, will then be intended for the usual ecdesiastiol figure
of the sacrament : ana, perhaps, also expresses that the Saviour, bom at Bethlehem, the house of
bread, was ** the living bread which came down fVom heaven." Upcm the same principle of interpre-
tation, however, if the star be regarded as indicating Christ and his passion, the cup with the skall
might be meant to designate, the "death which he tasted for every man," in the cup of his own suffer-
ings at Gethsemane, and at Golgotha, "the place of a skulL" Another armorial ensign, assigned to
the ancient hospital of Bethlehem, Is, Azure, an ^toile of eight points or ; and the connexion between
this foundation and that of Bridewell, which is under the same governor, is indicated by the latter
bearing the star of Bethlehem, on a chief azure, between two flears-de-lis.~^PaMipAM 6jf Peter Laurie,
B$q., JJL,B. i privatebf printed,
BILLINGSGATE
IS stated to take its name from having been the gate of Bolin, a king of the Britons,
about 400 B.C. But this rests upon no better authority than Geoffi«y of Mon-
mouth, and is doubted by Stow, who suggests that the gate was called from some
owner named Beling or Billing: Stow describes it as "a large water-gate, port, or
harborough for ships and boats, commonly arriving there with fish, both fresh and
salt, shell-fishes, salt, oranges, onions, and other fruits and roots, wheat, rye, and grain
of divers sorts, for the service of the City. It has been a quay, if not a market, for
nearly nine centuries — since the customs were paid here under Ethelred IL, a.d. 979 ;
and fishing-boats paid toll here, according to the laws of Athelstan, who died 940
Its present appropriation dates firom 1699, when, by an Act of William III., it was
made " a free and open market for all sorts of fish •" and was fixed at the western
extremity of the Custom House, a short distance below London Bridge.
The Market, for many years, consisted of a collection of wooden pent-houses, rude
sheds, and benches : it commenced at three o'clock a.m. in the summer and five in the
winter : in the latter season it was a strange scene, its large flaring oil-lamps showing
a crowd struggling amidst a Babel din of vulgar tongues, such as rendered " Billings-
gate " a byword for low abuse : " opprobrious, foul-mouth language is called Billings<
gate discourse." — (Martin's Dictionary, 1754, second edit.) In Biuley's Dictionary
we have " a Billings^afe, a scolding, impudent slut." Tom Brown gives a very coarse
picture of her character; and Addison refers to " debates which frequently arise among
the ladies of the British fishery." She wore a strong stuff gown^ tucked up, and show-
ing a larg^ quilted petticoat ; her hair, cap, and bonnet flattened into a mass by carry-
ing a basket upon her head ; her coarse, cracked cry, and brawny limbs, and red,
bloated face, completing a portrait of the " fish-fag " of other days.
BLACKFBIAB8. 55
Sot only has the Tiraigo dimppeared, bat the market-place has been rebuilt, and its
^wiwiiw rc^^nlaied by the City authorities, with especial reference to the condition of
the ibh ; and in ld49 was commenoed the ftirther extension of the market. There is
no cnHfJiug, eLbowing, screaming, or fighting, aa heretofore ; coffee has greatly snper*
aeded ^irita ; and a more orderly scene of business can scarcely be imagined. The
market ia dafly, except Sundays, at five A.1C., summer and winter, announced by ring-
ing a beU, the only relic of the olden rule. The fishing-vessels reach the quay daring
the n%ht^ and are moored alongside a floating wharf, which rises and falls with the
tide. The oyster-boata axe berthed by theniselves» the name of the oyster cargo is
painted npon a board, where they are measured out to purchasers. The other fish are
euried aahore in baskets, and there sold, by Dutch auction, to fishmongers, whoso
carta are waiting In the adjoining streets. The wholesale market is now over; the
fatsMNirees aupply the oostermongeTs, Ac
Ail fish ia acdd by tale, except oysters and shell-fish, which are sold by measure, and
mlman by weight. In February and March, about thirty boxes of salmon, each one
cwt, aniTe at Billingsgate per day ; the quantity g^dnally increases, until it amounts
in July and Angnst* to 1000 boxes (during one season it reached to 2500 tons) — the
fiih hoDg finest when it is lowest in price. Of lobsters, Mr. Yarrell states a twelve-
months' sapply to be 1,904,000; of turbots, 87,958. The speculation in lobsters is
very great : in 1816, one Billingsgate salesman is known to have lost 12002. per
week, ibr six weeks» by lobsters ! Periwinkles are shipped from Glasgow, fifty or
axty tona at a time, to Liverpool, and sent thence by railway to London, where better
profits are obtained, even after paying so much sea and land carriage. Sometimes
there is a marvellous glut of fish : thus, in two days ihmi 90 to 100 tons of plaice,
soles, and spirats have been landed at Billingsgate, and sold at two and three lbs. a
penny; soles* 2^*; large plaice. Id. each.
A fan season and scarce supply, however, occasionally raise the price enormously ; as
in the case of firar guineas being paid for a lobster for sauce, which, being the only
one in the market, was divided for two London ejncures ! During very rough weather,
scarody an oyster can be procured in the metropolis. In the Time*, Nov. 9, 1859, we
read: " In oonsequenoe of the gales which have recently prevailed, the price of fish
has risen so much, that cod-fish fetched the enonnous sum of 11. 15#., yesterday morn-
ing in Billingsgate market.*'
Mackerel were, in 1698, first allowed to be cried through the streets on a Sunday ;
bat» by the 9 and 10 Victoria, passed August 8, 1846, the sale of mackerel on a Sunday
was declared illegal.
Hie wholesale fish-trade of Billingsgate having greatly increased in 1854, Mr.
Banning, the Citj architect, completed a sub-market on the rite of Billingsgate Dock ;
the carriage of fish by railway to London having greatly superseded the use of sailing
vessels ibr that purpose. A new granite wharf-wall extends the entire river frontage
of the market ; and the foundations of the fish-market were constructed on
the blue day beneath the bed of the river, without the ud of a coffer-dam.
Few persons are aware of the great consumption of fish in the metropolis. In the
Parfiamentary Report on the Sea fisheries, 1866, is a calculation showing that nearly
IS moch fish as beef is consumed in London. About 90,000 tons of fish are brought
yearly, of which some 80,000 tons are large fish, the remainder being whiting and
small fish.
BLACKFEIJMS
IS the district between Ludgate Hill and the river Thames ; whore anciently a
monastery of Black or Dominican Friars, removed from Holbom in 1276, to a
piece of ground given them by Gregory Rocksley, Mayor. The monastery, church, and
a mansion were erected with the stone firom the tower of Montfichet, and from part of
the City walL Edward I. and his Queen Eleanor were g^reat benefactors to the new
convent. Here the King kept his charters and records; and great numbers of the
nobility dwelt in the precinct. In the church, divers parliaments and other gpreat
ffleedngs were held. In 1522 the Emperor Charles V. of Spain was lodged here by
Hem J yilL ; and here, 1524^ was begun the sitting of a parliament, adjourned to the
56 CURIOSITIES OF LONDON.
Black Monks at Westminster, and therefore called the Black Parliament. Henry's
divorce from Katherine of Arragon was decided there ; and the parliament which con-
demned Wolsey, assembled at BlackfHars. The precinct was very extenave, was walled
in, had four gates, and contained many shops, tbe occupiers of which were allowed to
carry on their trades, although not free of the City, privileges maintained even after
the dissolution of the monasteries. Fart of the church was altered and fitted up for
parochial use ; it was destroyed by the Great Fire of 1666, and the church of SL
Andrew by the Wardrobe erected in its place. Beneath the THmes office, upon the
fflte of the King's Printing-house, is a fragment of the Roman wall, upon which is a
Norman or early English reparation ; and upon that are the remains of a passage and
window, which probably belonged to the Blackfriars monastery.
Taking advantage of the sanctuary privilege, Richard Burbage and his fellowSy
when ejected from the City, built a playhouse in the Blackfriars precinct, and here
maintained their ground against the powerful oppoation of the City and the Puritans.
Shakspeare had a share in this theatre.
In the volume of the Calendar of State Papers, edited by Mr. Bruce, F.SJL., we
get some interesting information of the Blackfriars theatre, part of the site of which
is still called Playhouse-yard, where was a piece of ground " to tume coaches in."
Under the date of Nov. 16, 1633, we find — "Notes by Sec. Windebank, of business
transacted at the council this day. — Blackfriars Playhouse. The players demand
21,000^. The commissioners valued it at near 8000Z. The parishioners offer towards
the removing of them 1002. An order of the board to remove the coaches from thence^
and to lay the coachmen of whomsoever by the heels. That no coaches stay between
Paul's Chain and the Fleet Conduit. The officers to be punished if they do not their
duties. The Lord Mayor to have his commandment directed to him, and every ward
to be answerable/'
Hard by is another Shakspearean locality of note, the town property of the poet,
first pointed out by Mr. Halliwell — ^viz., the site of the house purchased by Shak-
speare of Henry Walker, in March, 1612-18, the counterpart of the conveyance of
which is preserved in the Guildhall Library (bought in 1841, for 1652. 15#.,) with
Shakspeare's signature attached, and which is there described as *' abutting upon a
streete leading doune to Pudle Wharfe (Blackfriers), in the east part, right against the
Kiuge's Majesties Wardrobe." The very house was, most probably, destroyed in the
Great Fire ; but the present one stands upon its exact site; and, until these few years,
it had been tenanted by the Robinson family, to whom Shakspeare leased it. The
house was bequeathed by the poet to his daughter, Susannah Hall.
Three eminent painters resided in Blackfriars : Isaac Oliver, the celebrated minia-
ture-painter, who died in 1617, and is buried in St. Anne's ; Cornelius Jansen, the
portnut-painter, employed by King James I., and who painted Milton at ten years
old. And here Vaudyck was lodged amongst the King's artists, in 1631, when he
arrived a second time in London; thither His Majesty Charles I. frequently went
by water, and viewed his paintings. The painter kept here a splendid establishment
and a sumptuous table ; but his luxurious and sedentary life brought on gout; he died
here in the Blackfriars, in 1641, and was buried in St. Paul's Cathedral, with great
funeral pomp.
In 1735, the right of the City to the jurisdiction of the precinct was decided in their
favour in an action against a shalloon and drugget seller, tried in the Court of King's
Bench ; since which Blackfriars has been one of the precincts of Farringdon Ward.
At Hunsdon House, in the Friary, occurred the catastrophe long remembered as
the " Fatal Vespers." It was on the anniversary of the Gunpowder Plot that some
800 persons had assembled in a small gallery over the gateway of the lodgings of the
French ambassador, to hear a sermon from the Jesuit, Father Drury, when the whole
congregation were predpitated, with the timber, plaster, and rubbish, into the vacant
apartments some 20 feet below. Brury was killed, and with him about 100 persons
of Ids congregation ; the bodies were buried, coffinless, in two large pits.
In a "Note of Liberties," in the State Paper Office, we find in a list of persons
" as well honourable as worshipful, inhabiting the Precincts of the Blacke and White
BLACKWALL. 57
IvgR^ in tbe middle of the reign of Qaeen Elizabeth, or about the year 1581, the
''TheEBriof Idneofai, Ixvrd Admlnll of Enfflaod: the Bishop of Wigone; the Lord Cobham; the
leri dHTDie; «he Ijora lAware; tiie Lord ftnneU; the Lord Clinton; Sir Ambrose Jermyn: ^r
X>?kias Pomeft; Sir TiMnxuu Gerrvrde; Sir William Morgan; the Lord Bnckhorat; the Lord Chief
Jtsstm iA &i^laiid ; the liord Chief Justice of the Common Pleas ; the Master of the RoUcs; the
■ijacsMi^i SoUidtoar ; Mr. Thomas Faudtawe; Peter Osborne; Mr. Powle» of the Chimoery."
la Eorl-gtreet was the lioaae of the British and Foreign Bible Society, upon the exact
8te of fhe premises in which the Committee of six of the forty 'Geven " distinguished
R^oiars" ordered by James I. to furmsh our present translation of the Bible used to
siiet in the early ^^tt of the seventeenth century, to review the whole work ; and
viiidi was finally revised there by Dr. Smith and Dr. Bilaon, Bishop of Winchester,
tba approved of by the King, and printed in the year 1611. When the Bible
Society pnndiased the above house of Mr. Enderby, there was in it a curious fourpoat
Iwdrtead, carved and painted, and the following inscription in capitals at the head : —
' Henri, by the Grace of God, Kynge of Englonde and of Fraunce, Lorde of Irelonde^
IHcxfidoDr of the Faythe, and Supreme Heade of the Churche of all Englonde.
As. DmL xcccccxxxix." Below the inscription, on each side, is the King's
^sotto, with the imtials of Henry and his Royal Consort, Anne Boleyu : " Dieu et
i^on droit." *' H. A." A new house for the Bible Society was founded in June, 1866.
In the operations necessary for carrying the London, Dover, and Chatham Railway
insD. the viadnct across the Thames at Blackfriars, great part of the east side of Bridge*
street was removed in 1863-4; the railway being carried on brick arches parallel
with the street line; and a large passenger-station, 150 feet in width, was erected.
In the requisite clearances was removed the York Hotel, the house which Mylne, the
sfchltect of Blackfriars Bridge, built for his private residence. On its southern face,
in Little Bridge-street, was a medallion, with the initials, ** R. M.," sormonnted by
Ms crest and the date hdcclxxx.; the walls of the principal rooms bore several
BLsdsDioxis of dassic figures. Mylne also planned the noble approach to Blackfriars
Bridge, and superintended the covering of the Fleet ditch. He planned well liis
ks3ie8 in Black&iars, although many of them were altered or rebuilt for insurance
tsSces. In the house No. 5, opposite the York Hotel, lived Sir Richard Phillips :
h the rear. Bride-court, he published his Monthly Magcuiine ; and here, as became
SQ author-publisher, he formed a considerable collection of pictures, mostly portraits of
eminent men of letters.
BLACKWALL,
OK the north hank of the Thames, and at the eastern extremity of the West India
Docks, is said to have been originally called Bleakwall, from its exposed situation
ca the artificial bank or wcdl of the river, through the winding of which it is nearly
e^t miles frxmi the City, though less than half that distance by land. Here, on the
Brsnswidc Wharf or Her, is the handsome Italianized terminus (by Tite) of the
^ckwall Railway from Fenchurcb -street, 4\ miles in length.
To the large taverns at Blackwall and Greenwich gourmett flock to eat whitebait, a
dclidoos fittle fish caught in the Reach, and directly netted out of the river into the
frymg-pan. They appear about the end of March or early in April, and are taken
erery flood-tide nntil September. Whitebait are caught by a net in a wooden frame,
the hose having a very small mesh. The boat is moored in the tideway, and the net
fixed to its side, when the tail of the hose, swimming loose, is from time to time handed
b to the boat, the end untied, and its contents shaken out. Whitebait were thought
Ui be the young of the shad, and were named from their being used as bait in fishing
hr whitings. By ud of comparative anatomy, Mr. Yarrell, however, proved white-
bait to be a distinct species, Clupea alba.
Pennant describes whitebait as esteemed by the lower ord^r of epicures. If this
account be correct, there must have been a strange change in the grade of the epicures
^oenting Greenwich and Blackwall since Pennant's days ; for at present the fashion
cf eating whitebait is sanctioned by the highest authorities, from the Court of St.
Jitaes's in the West to the Lord Mayor and his court in the East ; besides the philo-
58 CURIOSITIES OF LONDON.
«ophen of the Royal Society ; and her Miyesty's Cabmet Ministen, who wind np the
Pkrliamentary session with their " annual fish dinner/' the origin of which is stated to
be as follows : —
On the banks of Dagenham Lake or Beadi, In Essex, many years aince, there atood a<x>tta^e,
occapied by a princely merchant named Preston, a baronet of Scotland and Nora Scotia, and sometime
M.P. for Dover. He called it his ** fishing cottage," and often in the spring he went thither, with a friend
or two, as a relief to the toils of parliamentary and mercantile duties. His most freqaent guest was
the Bight Hon. George Rose, Secretary of the Treasury, and an Elder Brother of the Trin% Honae.
Hany a day did these two worthies ei\joy at Dagenham Beach ; and Mr. Bose onoe intimated to Sir
Bobert, that Mr. Pitt, of whose friendship they were both justlr proud, would, no doubt, delight in
the comfort of such a retreat. A day was nameid, and the Premier was invited; and he was so well
pleased with his reception at the " fishing cottage"— they were all two if not three bottle men— that, on
taking leave, Mr. Pitt readily accepted an invitation for the following vear. For a few years the Premier
continued a visitor, always accompanied by Mr. George Rose. But the distance was oousldeiable ; the
going and coming were somewhat Inconvenient for the Hirst Minister of the Crown. Sir Bobert Preston,
however, had his remedy, and he proposed that they should in fiiture dine nearer London. Greenwich
was suirgested : we do not hear of whitebait in the Dagenham dinners ; and its introduction,jprobably,
•dates from the removal to Greenwich. The partv of three was now increased to four ; Mr. Pitt being
Permitted to bring Lord Camden. Soon after a fifth vuest was invited— Mr. Charles liong, afterwards
(Ord Farnboroufh. All were still the guests of Sir Robert Preston ; but, one by one, other notables
were invited— all Tories— oncL at last, lx)rd Camden considerately remarked, that, aa they were all
dining at a tavern, it was but air that Sir Bobert Preston should be relieved finom the expense. It was
then arranged that the dinner should be given, as usual, by Sir Bobert Preston, that is to s^y, at his
invitation : and he insisted on still contributing a buck and champagne : the rest of the diargn were
thenceforth defrayed by the several guests, and, on this plan, the meeting continued to take place
annually till the death of Mr. Pitt
Sir Robert was requested, next year, to summon the several guests, the list of whom, by this time,
included most of the Cabinet Ministers. The time for meeting was usually after Trinity Monday, a
abort period before the end of the Session. By degrees the meeting, which was originally purely gastro-
nomic, appears to have assumed, in consequence of the long rdgn of the Tories, a pouticaL or semi-
political character. Sir Bobert Preston cUed; but Mr. Long, now Lord Famborough. undertook to
summon the several guests, the list of whon^ was fUmished by Sir Bobert Preston's private secretary.
Hitherto, the Invitations had been sent privately : now they were despatched In Cabinet boxes, and the
party was, certainly for some time, Umited to the members of the Cabinet— OMMWiiieototf to tie Timet.
An important thing to be noticed is the vast extent of iron shipbuilding carried on
here, an art of construction but of thirty years' growth. A great portion of Black-
wall and the Isle of Dogs is occupied in this building trade, with its clanking boiler-
works, and its Cyclopean foundries and engineering shops, in which steam is the primum
mobile.
In the East India Docks, at BUckwall, arrived, April, 1848, a large Chinese Jnnk^
the first ever seen in Englmd.
BZIND-SCSOOL (TffJE),
OR the School for the Indigent Blind, was established in 1799. at the Dog and Duck
premises, St. George's Fields; and for some time received only fifteen blind
persons. The site being required by the City of London for the building of Bethlem
Hospital, about two acres of ground were allotted opposite the Obelisk, and there a
plain school-house for the blind was built. In 1826, the School was incorporated ; and
in the two following years tluree legacies of 500Z. each, and one of 10,0002., were
bequeathed to the establishment. In 1834, additional ground was purchased, and the
school-house remodelled, so as to form a portion of a more extendve edifice in the
Tudor or domestic Gothic style, designed by John Newman, F.S.A. The tower and
gateway in the north front are very picturesque ; the School will now accommodate
220 inmates. The pupils are clothed, lodged, and boarded, and receive a religious
and industrial education ; so that many of them have been returned to their families
able to earn from 6^. to 8^. per week. Applicants are not received under twelve, nor
above thirty, years of age; nor if they have a greater degree of sight than will enable
them to distinguish light from darkness. The admission is by votes of the subscribers ;
and persons between the ages of twelve and eighteen have been found to receive the
greatest benefit from the instruction.
The pupils may be seen at work between ten and twelve A.H., and two and five F.ir.,
daily, except Saturdays and Sundays. The women and girls are employed in knitting
stockings and needlework ; in spinning, and making household and body linen, netting
silk, and in fine basket-making; besides working baby-hoods, bags, purses, watch-
x>ockets, &c., of tastefiil design, both in colour and form. The women are remarkably
^uick in superintending the pupils. The men and boys make wicker baskets, cradlesj,
BBEWEBIE8. 69
andhampcn; rope door-mats and worsted rags ; and they make all the shoes for the
inmates of the SchooL Beading is mostly taught by Alston's raised or embossed letters,
in wbidi have been printed the Old and New Testament, and the Liturgy. Both
malflB and fiemales are remarkably cheerfol in their employment : thoy have great taste
and aptness for music, and they are instructed in it, not as a mere amusement, but
with a view to engagements as organists and teachers of psalmody ; and once a year
they perform a concert of sacred music in the chapel or music-room : the public are
admitted by tickets, the proceeds from the sale being added to the funds of the
institutioii. An organ and pianoforte are provided for teaching; and above each of
the inmates of the males' working-room usually hangs a fiddle. They receive, as pocket-
money, part of their earnings , and on leaving the school, a sum of money and a set of
toolsv for their respective trades, are given to them.
Among the other Charities for the Blind is the munificent bequest of Mr. Charles
Day (of the firm of Day and Martin, High Holbom), who died in 1836, leaving
100,0002. fbr the benefit of persons afSicted, like himself, with lott of gight ; the divi-
dends and interest to be disbursed in sums, of not less than \0l., or more than 20^.,
per year, to each blind person, the selection being left to Trustees : the Charity is
named " The Bfind Man's Fund."
BREWERIES.
THE great Breweries of London are described by Stow, in 1598, as for the most
part remaining "near to the friendly water of Thames," which was long
thought to be superior to any other for brewing; but Richardson, an experienced
anthonty, allies this to be a mistake, as some of the principal brewers find the New
Birer water equally good ; they have also been at great expense in sinking wells upon
their own premises. In the Annual Register for 1760 the London beer trade is traced
from the Revolution down to the accesaon of George the Third. The great increase
in the trade appears to date from the origin of Porter.
** Prior to the yesr 1730, poblicans were in the habit of selUnff ale, beer, and two-neonv, and the
'thjnty serais' of that day were accustomed to combine either of these in a drink called half>and-hal£
Frann this they prooeeded to spin ' three threads,* as they caUed it, or to have their glasses filled ftom
each of the three tape. In the year 1790, however, a certain publican, named Horwood, to save himself
the trouble of making this trinne mixture^ brewed a liquor intended to imitate the taste of ^ ' three
threads,' and to this be applied the term ' entire/ This oonooction was approved, and being puffed as
good porter's drink, it speedily came to be called Porter itselfl"— QuaretfrJjr RevUw, 1854.
By Act of Ftffliament, beer and porter can only be made of malt and hope, the great
eooncil of the nation having omitted all mention of the water, which the brewers have
added as a neoeanry ingredient. It has been wdl said that all nations know that
London is the place where porter was invented ; and Jews, Turks, Germans, Negproes,
Persians, Chinese, New Zealanders, Esquimaux, Copper Indians, Yankees, and Spanish
Americans, are united in one feeling of respect for the native city of the most univer*
sally favourite liquor tho world has ever known.
The increase of brewers has kept pace with London's increase in other respects.
\\liitbread's Brewery, in Cbiswell-street, Finsbury, dates more than two centuries
back : we find it at ^e head of the list in 1787 ; and so it continued until 1806 in
the Pidmre of London, fiw which year WMthread'a is described as the largest
Brewery in the metropolis, the year's brewing of Porter being above 200,000 barrels.
"Tb^ is one stone eistem,** says the acooont, "that oontahiB 3000 barrels; and there an 49 large
oak vsta, aome of whieh oontaln 3600 barrels ; one is 27 feet in height and 22 feet in diameter. There
are three botiers, each of which holds about 6000 barrels. One of Mr. Watt's steam-engines works the
macfainarr. It pompe the water, wort, and beer; mrinds the malt, stin the mash-tube, and raises the
easks oat'of the ecllara. It is a^ie to do the work of seventy hcnraee, though it is of a small size, being
roly a twenty-four inch cylinder, and does not make more noise than a spinning-wheeL Whether the
ma^ndtxide or ingenuity of contrivance is considered, this Brewery is one of the greatest curiosities that
if tu be BDTwhera seen ; and little lesa than half a million sterling la employed in machinery, buildings,
^nd materuJs.**
To the Brewery of Barclay, Ferkina and Co,, in Park-street, Southwark, has, how-
ever, attached a greater celebrity, from its great extent. It may be inspected by a
letter of introduction to the proprietors; and a great number of the foreigners of
distinction who yisit the mctropoUs avail themselves of such permission. The
Brewery and its appurtenances occupy about twelve acres of ground, immediately
60 CURIOSITIES OF LONDON,
adjoining Bankside, and extending from the land-arches of Southwark Bridge nearlj
half of the distance to those of London Bridge. Within the Brewery walls is said
to be indaded the site of the famous Olobe Theatre, " which Shakspeare has boond so
closely up with hb own history." In an account of the neighbourhood, dated 1795, it
is stated that '* the passage which led to the Globe Tavem, of which the playhouse
formed a part, was, till within these few years, known by the name of Globe-aUey, and
upon its site now stands a large storehouse for Porter." We are inclined to regard
this evidence merely as traditional. However, the last Globe Theatre was taken
down about the time of the Commonwealth ; and so late as 1720, Maid-lane (now called
New Park-street), of which Globe-alley was an ofishoot, was a long, straggling place,
with ditches on each side, the passage to the houses bdng over little bridges with
little garden-plots before them (Strype^s Stow).
Early in the last century there was a Brewery here, comparatively very small ; it
then bdonged to a Mr. Halsey, who, on retiring ftxnn it with a large fortune, sold it to
the elder Mr. Thrale ; he beoime Sheriff of Surrey and M.P. for Southwark, and died
in 1758. About this time the produce of the Brewery was 80,000 barrels a year.
Mr. Thrale's son succeeded him, and found the Brewery so profitable and secure an income,
that, although educated to other tastes and habits, he did not part with it ; yet the
Brewery, through Thrale's unfortunate speculation elsewhere, was at one time, accord-
ing to Mrs. Thrale, 130,000^. in debt, besides borrowed money ; but in nine years every
shilling was paid. Thrale was the warm friend of Dr. Johnson, who, from 1765 to the
brewer's death, lived partly in a house near the Brewery, and at his villa at Streatham.
Before the fire at the Brewery, in 1832, a room was pointed out, near the entrance gate-
way, which the Doctor used as a study. In 1781 Mr. Thrale died, and his executors,
of whom Johnson was one, sold the Brewery to David Barclay, junior, then the head
of the banking firm of Barclay and Co., for the sum of 135,000/. " We are not here,"
said Johnson, on the day of the sale, " to sell a parcel of boilera and vats, but the
potentiality of gro^dng rich beyond the dreams of avarice." While on his tour to the
Hebrides, Johnson mentioned that Thrale paid 20,000Z a year to the revenue,
and that he had four vats, each of which held 1600 barrels, above 1000
hogHbeads. David Barclay placed in the brewing firm his nephew from America,
Robert Barclay, who became of Bury Hill; and Mr. Perkins, who had been
in Mr. Thrale's establishment — hence the firm of " Barclay and Perkins." Robert
Barclay was succeeded by his son, Charles Barclay, who sat in Parliament for South-
wark ; and by his sons and grandsons. Forty yean since, the Brewery was of great
extent ; in 1832 a great portion of the old premises was destroyed by fire, but was
rebuilt, mostly of iron, stone, and brick. The premises extend from New Park-street^
southward, through Park-street, both sides of which are the Brewery buildings, con-
nected by a light suspension bridge ; to the right is the vast brewhouse and prindpal
entrance. There are extensive ranges of malt-houses extending northward, with a
wharf to Bankside. From the roof of nearly the middle of the premises may be had a
bird's-eye view of the whole.
The water used for brewing is pumped up by a steam-engine through a large iron
main, which passes under the malt warehouses, and leads to the " liquor-backs," two
cast-iron cisterns, on columns, reaching an elevation of some 40 feet. By this means
the establishment may be supplied with water for brewing to the extent of a hundred
thousand gallons daily. There is on the premises an Artesian well 367 feet deep ; but
its water, on account of its low temperature^ is principally used for cooling the beer in
hot weather.
The machinery is worked throughout the Brewery by steam. The fumaoe-skaft is
19 feet below the surface, and 110 feet above ; and, by its great height, denotes the
situation of this gigantic establishment among the forest of Southwark diimneys.
The malt is deposited in enormous bins, each of the height or depth of an ordinary
three-storied house. The rats are kept in check by a standUng army of cats, who are
regularly fed and maintained.
The malt is conveyed to be ground in tin buckets upon an endless leather band
(** Jacob's Ladder") ; and thus carried to the height of 60 or 70 feet, in the middle of
the Great Brewhouse* built entirely of iron and brick, and lighted by eight large and
BEEWEEIE8. 61
lofty windows. The Brewhouse is 225 feet long by 60 in width, and of prodigious
bagfat, with an elaborate iron roof, the proportions reminding ns of Westminster HalL
Within this compass are complete sets of brewing apparatus, perfectly distinct in
themaelresy bat connected with the great supply of malt from above, of water from
below, and of motive force from the steam-engine behind, vast coolers, fermenting vats,
&C. Each of the copper boilers cost nearly 5000^., and consists of a furnace, a globular
eopper holding 320 barrels, and a cylindrical cistern to contiun 120 borrels, an arrange-
ment equally beautiful and useful from its compactness and the economy of heat.
There is no continuous floor ; but looking upwards, whenever the steamy vapour per-
mits, there may be seen at various heights, stag^ platforms, and flights of stairs, all
sob^diary to the Cyclopean piles of Inrewing vessels. The coals, many tons per day,
are drawn up firom below by tackle, and wheeled along a ndlway.
** The hot water is drawn from one of the copper boilers to the oorreepondingr mash-vat below ; and
■aefamery working from a centre on a oog-rail that extends over the droumfbrence of the vat, stirs the
aaU. The mash-vat has a false bottom, which in doe time lets off the wort through small holes to on
nnder-paoi, whence it is pumped back to the emptied copper, from whence it receives the hot water, and
there, mixed with hops, it is boiled, and again mn off into a vast cistern, where passing throng a
perfoiated bottom, it leaves the hope, and is pumped throoji^h the cooling tubes or refrigerators into the
open oooter, and thence to the fermenting cases ; whence, in a £bw days, it is drawn off mto casks, again
famented, and when clearer put into the large vat."
The sorfiu^ of one of the fermenting cases nearly filled is a strange sight : the yeast
rises in rock-like masses, which yield to the least wind, and the gas hovers in pungent
mistinesa over the ocean of beer. The largest vat will contain about 3500 barrels of
porter, which, at the retail price, would yield 9000/. The " Great Tun of Heidelberg*'
woaldfaold but half this quantity.
Kearly every portion of the heavy toil is accomplished by the steam-engine. The
malt is conveyed from one building to another, even across the street, by machinery,
and again to the crushing rollers and mash vat. The cold and hot water, the wort and
beer, are pumped in various directions, almost to the exdosion of human exertions.
With so much machinery and order, few men comparatively are required for the
enormous brewing of SOOO bushels of malt a day. The stables are a pattern of order.
The name of each horse is painted upon a board over the rack of each stall. The horses
are mostly from Flanders, are about 200 in number, and cost from *10L to 80Z. each.
I^mman, Sanhury, Buxton, ^ Co'a Brewery is situated in Brick-lane, Spitalflelds,
and corera nearly Ax. acres of ground. Here are two mash tuns, each to contain 800
barrelfl* the mashing being performed by a revolving spindle with huge arms, like a
cfaocolate-milL The wort is then pumped into large coppers, of which there are five,
containing from 800 to 400 barrels each ; it is then boiled with the hops, of which often
two tons are used in a day. The boiling beer is now pumped up to the cooler on the
roof of the brewery, which presents a black sea of 82,000 square feet, partly open to
the air. There are sixteen large furnace-chimneys connected with this brewery, the
smdce of which is consumed by Juckes's apparatus. There is a vast cooperage for the
8U,000 barrels ; a farrier's, millwright's, carpenter's and wheelwright's shop ; a pdnter's
shop for ugn-boards; all which surround the central gear or beer-barrel dep6t. The
malt bins are 20 feet across and 35 deep. The stables are of great extent, and there
are a score of farriers. The drayman is «tt» generis ; there are some 80 in number,
taller than the Guardsmen, and heavier by two stone.
Mgtu^M Brewery (now Beid ^ Co,*a), in Liquorpond-street, Gray's Inn-lane, was
described by Pennant, in 1795, as " of magnificence unspeakable." In this year Meux
Inilt a vessel 60 feet in diameter, and 23 feet in height, which cost 5000/. building,
tod would contain from 10,000 to 12,000 barrels of beer, valued at 20,000/. Their
fats then held 100,000 barrels. Messrs. Meux removed from Liquorpond-street to
their great brewery at the end of Tottenham Court-road. The head of the firm. Sir
Henxy Meux was created a baronet in 1831, when he had a fortune of 200,0002., which by
bit income from the brewery, increased in after years to between 500,000/. and 600,000/.
The handsomest edifice of this class in the metropolis is the Lion Brewery, built for
Coding, in 1836, in Belvedere-road, next Waterloo-bridge, and surmounted with a
eoloMal stone lion. The top of the building is a tank to contain 1000 barrels of water,
pomped up from a well 230 feet deep, or from the Thames; this supplies the floor
62 CURIOSITIES OF LONDON.
1 * -- — - ^ ■■■ - - - ■ _ ■
below, where the boiled liquor is cooled — ^200 barrels in less than an honr ; when cooled
it is received on the floor beneath into the fermenting tuns; next it descends to the floor
for flning ; and lastly, to the cellars or store-vats. The steam-engine peases the beer
under the Belvedere-road ; loads or unloads barges ; conveys malt by the Archimedes
Screw or Jacob's Ladder; and pumps water and beer to every height and extreme
pontion, displaying the advantage of mechanic power, by its steady, quiet regularity.
The Metropolitan Breweries luve their signs, whidi figure upon the harness of their
dray-horses; thus, Barclay and Perkins, the Anchor } Galverfs (now the City of
London), the Hov/t-gltut ; Meux, Horaeshoe, &c.
BRIDBWELL S08FITAL.
TpEH3X one of the oldest historic sites in the City of London stood the ancient palace
vJ of Bridewell, which extended nearly from Fleet-street to the Thames at Black-
friars. It was founded upon the remains of a building supposed to be Roman, and
inhabited by the Kings of England previous to the Conquest. Here our Norman
Kings held their Courts. Henry I. g^ve stone towards rebuilding the palace ; and in
1847, in excavating the site of Cogers Hall, in Bride-lane, was diBcovered a vault, with
Norman pellet-moulding, and other remuns of the same date. The palace was much
neglected until, upon the ute of the old Tower of Mountfiquit, Henry V III. built " a
stately and beautiful house thereupon, giving it to name Bridewell, of the parish and
well there." — {Stow^ This house was erected for the reception of Charles V. of Spain,
though only his nobles were lodged here, " a gallery being made out of the house over
the water [the Fleet], and through the wall of the City into the Emperor's lod^ngs
in the Blaokfriars."— (iST^oio.) The whole third act of Shakspeare's Heniy VIII. la
liud in " the palace at Bridewell," which is historically correct. Subsequently the
King, taking a dislike to the palace, let it fall to decay. The " wide, large, empty-
house" was next presented to the City of London by King Edward VI., after a sermon
by Bishop Ridley, who begged it of the King as a workhouse for the poor and a house
of correction ; the gift was made for " sturdy rogues," and as ** the fittest hospital for
those cripples whose legs are lame through their own laziness." It was endowed
with lands and furniture from the Savoy. All tins history is, by a curious licence,
transferred to Milan, by Decker, in the second part of the old play of the Honetit
Whore, The account is very exact, compared with Entick's HUtory of London^ iv.
284. (Nares's Olossaty, new edit. 1859.) The gift was confirmed by charter only ten
days before the death of the King. Nearly two years elapsed before Queen Mary con-
firmed her brother's gift ; and in February, 1555, the Mayor and Aldermen entered
Bridewell and took possession, with seven hundi'ed marks land, and all the bedding and
other furniture of the house of the Savoy. But the gift soon proved costly and in-
convenient to the citizens by attracting thither idle and abandoned people firom the
outskirts of London, when the Common Council issued acts against " the resort of
masterless men." In 1608, the City erected here twelve large granaries for com and
two storehouses for coak. In Aggas's plan of London, the buildings and gardens of the
hospital extend from the present site to the Thames, on the bank of which a large
castellated mansion is represented ; as also in Van der Wyngrorde's (1542) view, in the
Bodleian Library; but in Hollar's view, etfter the Great Fire, most of the buildhigs are
consumed.
The Hospital was rebuilt as we see it in Kip's view, 1720, in two quadrangles^ the
principal of which fronted the Fleet River, now a vast sewer under the mid^ of
Bridge-street. Within the present century were built the committee-room and
prisons ; the chapel was rebuilt and the whole latterly formed only one large quad-
rangle, with a handsome entrance from Bridge-street ; the keystone of the archway
is sculptured with the head of King Edward YI. Hatton thus minutely describes
theho6pitalinl708:—
It is a prison and hooae of correction for idle vaffranta, loose and disorderly servants, night-walkers,
strumpets, &o. These are set to hard labour, and have correction according to their Msert^; bat
have their clothes and diet daring their imprisonment at the duuM of ihe house.
It is also an hospital for indigent persons, and where twontj art-masters (as they are called), being
decayed traders— as shoemakers, tayiors, flax-drapers^ fto. have hoasee, and their senrants or appren-
BRIDEWELL HOSPITAL. 6a
tioes (bdng about 140 in all) hare clothes at the house charge, and their masters haying the profit of
their waric, do often advance br this means their own fortunes. And these boys, having served their
time ttiaitMJtj, have not oniy their freedom, but also £10 each towards cazrj^g on their respective
trades, and many have even arrived from nothing to be governors.
Hie Bridewell boys were distinguished by a particular drees, and were very active
at ^na with an en^^e belonging to the hoepitaL In 1755 they had, however,
grown munly, and so turbulent in the streets as to be a great annoyance to peaceable
citizens. Their peculiar costume was then laid aside, and they became more peaceable.
The flogging at Bridewell for offences committed without the prison is described by
Waid in his London Spjf ; both men and women were whipped on their naked backs,
before the Court of Qovemors. The president sat with his hammer in his hand, and
the culprit was taken from the post when the hammer fell. Hogarth, in his " Harlof»
Progfoiy" gives the peculiar features of the place. In the Fourth Plate men and
women are beating hemp under the eye of a savage taskmaster ; and a lad, too idle to
work, is seen standing on tiptoe to reaxib. the stocks, in whidi his hands are fixed,
while over hishead is written, ** Better to work than stand thus."* When Howard
vitited Bridewell he found the building damp and unhealthy, and the rooms, cells, and
oorridora confined and dark, and alU^ether a bad specimen of a prison.
" Lob's Pound " was a cant name for Bridewell, the origin of which so puzzled
Archdeacon Nares, that he said : " Who Lob was, is as little known as the rite of
lipsbuxy Pinfold." In Sudibnu the term is employed as a name for the stocks into
whidi the Knight put Crowdero : —
Crowdero, whom, in irons iMund,
Thou basely tiirew'st into Lob's Poand.
3fiBB Baker suggests, in her Nbrthamptomhire Glossary, that the name originated
firom ** XcSb/* a looby or down, rather than any specific individual — Bridewell being
the place of correction for the petty offences of that class.
Bridewell is named firom the fiimous well in the vidnity of St. Bride's Church ; and
this prison being the first of its kind, all other houses of correction, upon the same
plan, were called BrideweUs. In the Nomemelator, 1585, occurs " a workhouse where
scifauts be tied to their work at Bridewell ; a house of correction ; a prison." We
read of a treadmill at work at Bridewell in 1570.
Bridewell was, until latdy, used as a receptacle fiar vagrants committed by the
Lord Mayor and ritting Aldermen ; as a temporary lodging for persons previous to
ther bdng sent home to their respective parishes; and a certain number of boys
were brought up to different trades ; and it is stiU used for apprentices committed
by the City Chamberlain. The male prisoners sentenced to and fit for hard labour
were employed on the treadwhed, by which com was ground for the supply of
Bridewell, Bethlehem, and the House of Occupation ; the younger prisoners, or those
not sentenced to hard labour, were employed in picking junk and cleaning the
wards; the females were employed in washing, mending, and getting up the linen
and bedding of the prisoners, or in picking junk and cleaning the prison. The
panidiments for breaches of prison rules were diminution of food, solitary confine-
ment, and irons, as the case might be. In 1842 were confined here 1324 persons, of
whom 238 were under seventeen, and 466 were known or reputed thieves. In 1818
no employment was furnished to the prisoners. The seventh Report of the Inspectors
of Prisons returned Bridewell as answering no one object of improvement except
that of safe custody ; it does not correct, deter, or refonp ; and nothing could be
worse than the association to which all but the City apprentices were subjected.
Howevery in 1829, there was bmlt, adjoining Bethlehem Hospital, in. Lambeth, a
** HoQse of Occupation," whither young prisoners were thenceforth sent from Bridewell
to be tanght useful trades.
The prison of Bridewdl was taken down in 1863; and the committals are now
made to the CSty Prison, at Holloway. Meanwhile a portion of Bridewell Hospital
will be reserved for the detention and reformation of incorri^ble City apprentices
eooimitted here by the ChamberUdn from time to time ; this juris^ction being pre-
KTved by the Court of Chancery in dealing with the matters which concern the
• Thfa backgroond is, however, incorrect ; since the harlot, being sentenoed \fj a Westminster
woold not have been ilogged in the City Bridewell.
64 0Tmi08ITIE8 OF LONDON.
disposal of the bmlding and the estates of the governors of the Hospital. Reforma-
tory schools are also to be built from the revenue of Bridewell, stated at 12,000^. per
annum. At the Social Science Congress, in 1862, the worthy Chamberlain read a
paper on the peculiar jurisdiction of. his Court. In the prison, special care was taken
to prevent the apprentices making the acquaintance of the low vagrants and misde-
meanants who ordinarily occupied the building. The apprentices were placed in small
cells, closed in with double doors, which shut out sound as effectually as sight ;
communication was, therefore, nearly impossible. Hereafter, only the apprentices will
be confined here. The number of committals rarely exceeds twenty-five annually. At
the date of our last visit there was but one apprentice confined here. Although the
number is so small, the power of committal, 'which the Chamberlain has most praise-
worthily asserted and successfully maintains, acts as a terror to evildoers, keeping
in restraint about 3000 of these hids of the City.
In a piece of ground, leased for the burial-place of Bridewell Precinct, Bobert
Levett, the old and faithful friend of Dr. Johnson, and an inmate of his house, was
buried, in 1732. Not a vestige of the andent Bridewell remains. The noblest
feature of the later buildings was the court-room — 85 ft. 4» in. by 29 ft. 8 in., wains-
coted, and hung with the great picture of Edward VI. g^nting the Boyal Charter of
Endowment to the Mayor. Beneath was a cartoon of " The Good Samaritan,'' by
the youthful artist Dadd. The other pictures are a fine full-length of Charles II., by
Sir Peter Lely ; and portraits of the Presidents, including Sir William Withers, 1708,
a very large equestrian portrait^ with St. Paul's in the background. But the most
valuable embellishmenta were the tables of benefactions, ranging from 600/. to 50^,
** depensUIed in gold characters." In this hall the governors dined annually, each
steward contributing 15/. towards the expenses, the dinner being dressed in the spacious
kitchen beneath, only used for this purpose. This hall and kitchen were taken down
at the close of the year 1862 — ^the official buildings facing Bridge-street remain. The
great picture of Edward VI. transferring Bridewell Palace to the City of London,
-which was engraved by Vertue in 1750, and afterwards adopted into the series of
historical prints published by the Society of Antiquaries, was long accredited as painted
by Holbein, whereas, it represents an occurrence which took place in 1553, ten years
after Holbein's death. Consequently, it is simply impossible that he could have
painted it, notwithstanding that one of the figures in the background was asserted
by Vertue and by Walpole to be Holbein's own portrait. Upon this picture, Mr. J.
Qough Nichols, F.S.A., remarked, in 1859, that " it is not now regarded as Holbein's
work, as it bears no comparison with his capital picture at Barber-Surgeons' Hall of
King Henry VIII. granting his charter to that Company." " But," adds Mr.
Nichols, " after all, though not a masterly work of art, it is a valuable item among
a very few historical pictures, and it would be desirable to recover its real history, of
which we literally know nothing." — ArchBologia xxxix. 21.
A very interesting historical £Eict in connexion with Bridewell remains to be noticed.
Mr. Lemon, of the State Paper Office, has discovered in that depository a manuscript
showing that in the old Bridewell were imprisoned the members of the Congregational
Church first formed after the accession of Elizabeth. On the evening of tiie 20th of
June, 1567, the gates of the old prison were opened to receive a company of Christian
men and women, who were committed to the custody of the gaoler for an indefinite
term, at the pleasure of the authorities, who consigned them to his care. The Lord
Mayor, in pity for their condition, urged them to make the required acknowledg-
ment ; but they conscientiously refused. Then were led to their cells, men unknown
to fame, but who discovered the long-neglected principles of Church Government in
the New Testament, which have wrought in silence much mighty and beneficial
changes. It is, no doubt, to this company that Bishop Grindal refers, in his letter
to Bullinger, July 11, 1568 : " Some London citizens," he says, " with four or five
ministers, have openly separated from us, and sometimes in private houses, sometimes
in fields, and, occasionally, even in ships, they have held meetings and administered
the Sacraments. Besides this, they have orddned ministers, elders, and deacons after
their own way. The number of the sect is about two hundred, but consisting of
niore women than men. The Privy Council have lately committed the heads of
this faction to prison, and are now using means to put a timely stop to the sect."
BRIDGES. 65
Dr. Waddingion has also disoovered some papers written by the members of this
ChQitb in the Bridewell, signed chiefly by Christian women ; tf^ther with a docu-
ment oontaining a brief statement of their principles, by Richard Fitz, their pastor.
It appears from these records — which have been kept for nearly three hundred years —
that Richard Fitz, thdr minister ; Thomas Rowland, deacon ; Partridge, and Giles
Fowler; died in prison. From the enlarged proportions the congregational denomina-
tion has since reached in Great Britain and America, considerable interest is attached
to Bridewell because of these associations. Dr. Waddington, following the current of
history from this hidden source, shows, by indisputable evidence from original papers
in the public archives, that the succession of Congregational Churches from this period
is eontinoons : the Bridewell may thus be r^arded as the starting-point of Cougrcgn-
taonaEsm after the Reformation.*
These touching and simple memorials have been preserved by the Metropolitan
Bishop, and Anally transferred to the royal archives. The name of Fitz was known to
the Christian exiles in Holland associated with the Pilgrim Fathei's. Henry Aius-
worth speaks of " that separated Church, whereof Mr. Fitz was pastor, in the begin-
ning of Queen Elizabeth's reign." It was reserved for us to identify him in his rela-
tion to the " Flock of Slaughter," suffering bonds and imprisonment in the Bridewell.
These original papers enable us with certainty to trace the origin of the first voluntary
Church in England after the Marian persecution, as contemporaneous with the Angli-
can moTement. — See JSUtorical Papers : No. 1, Eichard Fitz.
BRIDQES.
THERE is no feature of the metropolis calculated to convey so enlarged an idea of
the wealth, enterprise, and skill of its population, as the Eight Bridges, which
have been thrown across the Thames within the present century. Until the year 1750,
the long narrow defile of Old XiOndon Bridge formed the sole land communication
between the City and the suburbs on the Surrey bank of the Thames ; whereas now,
westward of the structure built to replace the ancient Bridge, are Southwark,
Blaekfriars, Waterloo, Lambeth Suspension, Westminster, Yauxhall, and Chelsea
Bridges, besides the Railway Bridges to be described elsewhere.
LoKi>ON Bbedgb, the first Bridge across the Thames at the metropolis, was of wood,
erected in the year 994, opposite the site of the present St. Botolph's \Vharf : it is
mentioned in a statute of Ethelred II., fixing the tolls to bo paid by boats bringing
fish to " Bylynsgate."
The first wooden bridge is stated to have been built by the pious Brothera of St.
Mary's monastery, on the Banknde ; which house was originally a convent of sisters,
founded and endowed with the profits of a ferry at this spot, by Mar}', the only
daughter of the ferryman, who is traditionally said to be represented by an* antique
monQniental figure in St. Saviour^s Church. This bridge is described with turrets
and roofed bulwarks in the narrative of the invasion of the fleet of Swcyn, King
of Denmark, in 994; and it was nearly destroyed by the Norwegian Prince Ohif
in 1008. It was rebuilt before the invasion of Canute in 1016, who is said to have
sunk a deep ditch on the south side, and dragged his ships to the west side of the
bridge. It was easily passed by Earl Godwin in 1052 ; but it was swept away by
flood in 1091 ; rebuilt in 1097 ; burnt in 1136 ; and a new bridge erected of elm-timber
in 1163, by Peter, chaplain of St. Mary Colechurch, Poultry.
The same pious architect began to build a stone bridge, a little to the west of the
wooden one, in 1176 ; when Henry II. gave towards the expenses the proceeds of a
tax on wool, which gave rise to the popular saying that " London Bridge was built npon
woolpacks." Peter of Colechuroh died in 1205, having, it would appear, Icfc the bridge
unfinished four years previously ; since the Patent Roll of the third year of the reign
of King John informs us that the King was anxious to bring the Bridge to perfection,
and in 1201 took upon himself to recommend to the Mayor and citizens of London for
that porpose, Isenbert, Master of the Schools of Xainctes, who had already constructed
• bridge there^ and at Rochelle. A translation of this Roytil Writ U given in the
• Bee Walks and Talks abwt London, 1865, pp. 31-38.
ee 0UEI08ITIJS8 OF LONDON.
ChrotUcleg of Old London Bridge (pp. *!0, 71). In it the King states tbat» by the
advice of Hubert, Arcbbisbop of Canterbury, and others, be had entreated Isenbert to
undertake the building (or rather completion) of the bridge, and that he had granted the
profits of the edifices Isenbert was to build on the bridge to be for ever applied to its
repair and sustentation ; in another document mention is made of the houses built upon
the bridge, as well as to a plan of lighting the bridge by night, according to Isenbert's
plan. {See Mr. Hardy's IntrodueHon to the Patent JRoUe, and Mr. W. Sidney Gibson's
communication to Notes and Queries, 2nd s., ix., 119.) The bridge was, accordingly,
finished in 1209. It oonasted of a stone platfbrm, 926 feet long and 40 in ynidthy
standing about 60 feet above the level of the water; and of a drawbridge and 19
broad-pointed arches, with masnve piers. It had a gate-house at each end; and
towards the centre, on the east side, a Gothic chapel, dedicated to St. Thomas of
Canterbury ; in the crypt of which, within -a pier of the bridge, was deposited, in a
stone tomb, the body of Peter of Cdechurch. Up to the year 1250, a toll of twelve
pence, a considerable sum at that time, had been levied upon every ship passing under
London Bridge^ i.e. through the drawbridge in the middle. The many edicts about
the nets used upon the Thames show how careMIy the fisheries were watched, and
how productive they must have been.
Norden describes the bridge, in the reign of Elizabeth, as ''adorned with sumptuous
buildings and statelie and beautiful houses on either iyde," like one continuous
street, " except certain voyd places for the retyre of passengers from the danger of
cars, carts, and droves of cattle, usually passing that way," through which vacancies
only could the river be seen over the parapet- walls or palings. Some of the houses
had platform roofs, with pretty little gardens and arbours. Near the drawbridge^
and overhanging the river side, was the famed Nonsuch House, of the Elizabethan
age: it was constructed in Holland, entirely of timber, put together with wooden
pegs only, and was four stories high, richly carved and gilt.
There is a view of London Bridire by Norden, which is a pearl of great price omonff print odlectonu
One impression, in the Sutherland Clarendon, in the Bodleian Library, is in the BeeonittaU^ and differs
materiiuly from the view published by Norden, in the reign of Elizabeth, twenty-seven years earlier
than the Sutherland impression. Of the first named view, an earW improcsion was discovered in
Germany in 1863, by Mr. J. Holbert Wilson: the old houses upon tiie bridge are neatly engraved; and
a cluster of traitors' heads is placed upon poles on tiie top of the bridge gate. The print in the second
atat« has lost five inches in depth, and the dedication states that Noroen had described it in the reign of
Queen Elizabeth, but the plate had been " neare these twenty Tears, embezzed and detained by a person
till of late unknown;" it was, therefore, not published until late in the rdgn of James L, then in a
mutilated state ; though the above is evidence of impressions of the first state. This is, thorefore, tt«
oUett known view qfiondon Bridge.
We may here mention another old view of London Bridge— one of a series published by Boydell and
Co., hi 1818, with a note stating it to have been copied from a print engraved in 1754^ flrom a ** very
antient picture; but the plate (which was a private one) was afterwards mislaid." This view is birds-
eye, reaching from the bridge to St. Katharine's ; in it appears St. Paul's, tpt^ the epire. which was
burnt in 1561. Beneath the view this is stated to be *' the oldest view of London extant ;" but we havo
Van den Wrngrerde's (1643) view, in the Sutherland Collection. In neither of these views, however,
is London Bridge so distinctly shown as in Norden's horixontal view : the detail of the houses on tiie
bridge is surprisingly minnte.
The chronicles of this stone bridge through nearly six centuries and a quarter
form, perhaps, the most interesting episode in the history of London. The scenes
of fire and siege, insurrection and popular vengeance, of national rejoicing and of
the pageant victories of man and of death, of fiune or funeral — ^it were vain for us
to attempt to recite. In 1212, within four years after the bridge being finished,
there was a terrific conflagration at each end, when nearly 3000 persons perished;
in 1264^ Henry III. was repulsed here by De Montfort, Earl of Leicester, and the
populace attacked the Queen in her barge as it was preparing to shoot the Bridge;
in 1381, the rebel Wat Tyler entered the City by this road; in 1392, Richard II. was
received here with great pomp by the citizens ; in 1415, it was the scene of a grand tri-
umph of Henry V., and in 1422 of his funeral procession ; in 1428, the Duke of Norfolk's
barge was lost by upsetting at the bridge, and his Qr&ce narrowly escaped ; in 1450 —
" Jack Cade hath gotten London Bridge ; the citizens
Fly and forsake their houses :"
but the rebel was defeated, and his head placed upon the Gate-house : in 1477, Falcon-
bridgo attacked the Bridge, and fired several houses; in 1554, it was one of the daring
scenes of Sir Thomas Wyatt's rebellion; in 1632 more than one-third of the houses
BBUDGE^OLD LONDON. 67
in an accidental conflagration ; and in 1666 the labyrinth of dwellings
■wept away by the Great Fire : the whole street was rebailt within twenty years ;
but, in 1757, the hooses were entirely removed, and parapets and balastrades erected
OQ each ride ; in this state the Bridge remained till its demolition in 1832.
In 1582, at tlie west side of the City end of the Bridge, Waterworks were
commenced by Morico, with water-wheels turned by the flood and ebb current of
the Thames passing through the purposely contracted arches, and working pumps
fior the supply of water to the metropolis ; this being the earliest example of public
water service by pumps and mechanical powers which enabled water to be distributed
in pipes to dwelling-houses. Previously, water had only been supplied to public
cisterns, fronr whence it was conveyed at great expense and inconvenience in
bodcets and carts. These Waterworks were not removed until 1822, when the pro-
prieton reodved ibr their interest 10,000^. from the New River Company.
The Bridge shops had rigns, and were ** famished with 'all manner of trades."
Holbein is said to have lived here ; as did also Herbert, the printscller, and editor
of Ames's T^ypographical Aniiquities, at the time the houses were taken down. On
the first night Herbert spent here, a dreadful fire took place on the banks oif the
nMmes, wUch suggested to him the plan of a floating fire-engine, soon after
adopted. Tradesmen's Tokens famish but few records of the Bridge shopkeepers.
** As fine as London Bridge " was formerly a proverb in the City ; and many a
aoKKis, sensible tradesman used to believe that heap of enormities to be one of the
Seven Wonders of the World, and, next to Solomon's Temple, the finest thing that
ever art produced. Rn-makers, the first of whom was a negro, kept shops in con-
aulerable numbers here, as attested by their printed shop-bills.
The Bridge was also the abode a£ many artists : here lived Peter Monamy, the
marine pamter, who was taught drawing by a sign and house painter on London
Bridge. Dominic Serres once kept shop here; and Hogarth Uved here when he
engraved for old John Bowles, in Comhill. Swift and Pope have left accounts of
their virits to Crispin Tucker, a waggish bookseller and author-of-all-work, who
lived under the southern gate. One Baldwin, haberdasher, bom in the house
over the Chapel, at seventy-one could not sleep in the country for want of the noise
of the roaring and rushing tide beneath, which " he had been always used to hear."
A most terrific historic garniture of the Bridge was the setting up of heads on its
gate-houses : among these ghastly spectacles were the head of Sir WUliam Wallace,
1306; Simon Frisel, 1306; four traitor knights, 13d7; Lord Bardolf, 1408 ; Boling-
broke, 1440 ; Jack Cade and his rebels, 1451 ; the Cornish traitors of 1497 ; and of
Fisher, Btihop of Rochester, 1535, displaced in fimrteen days by the head of Sir
Tbomas More. * In 1577, the several heads were removed from the north end of the
Drawbridge to the Southwark entrance, thence called Traitors' Gate. In 1578, the
bead of a recusant priest was added to the rickening sight ; and in 1605, tliat of
Garnet the Jesuit^ as well as those of the Romish priests executed under the statutes
of EUzabeth and James I. Hentzner counted above thirty heads on the Bridge
in 1598. The display was transferred to Temple Bar in the reign of Charles II.
The narrowness of the Bridge arches so contracted the channel of the river as to
canse a rapid ; and to pass through them was termed to " shoot the bridge," a peril
taken advantage of by suiddes. Thus, in 1689, Sir William Temple's only son, lately
made Secretary at War, leaped into the river firom a boat as it darted through an
ardi : he had filled his pockets with stone^ and was drowned, leaving in the boat this
note : " My folly in undertaking what I could not perform, whereby some misfortunes
have befidlen the King's service, is the cause of my putting myself to this suddcti
end ; I wish hhn success in all his undertakings, and a better servant." Pennant adds
to the anecdote that Sir William Temple's fiilse and profane reflection on the occasion
vais that "a wise man might dispose of himself, and make his life as short as he
pleased !" In 1737, Eustace Budgell, a soi-duant cousin of Addison, and who wrote
10 the Spectator and Guardian, when broken down in character and reduced to poverty,
took a boat at Somerset Stairs ; and ordering the waterman to row down the river,
Bodgell threw himself into the stream as they shot London Bridge. He, too, had
fiUed faifl pockets with stones, and rose no more : he left in his secretary a slip of paper,
V 2
68 CURIOSITIES OF LONDOK
on wluch was written a broken dUtich : "WhatCato did, and Addison approved, cannot
be wrong." This is a wicked sophism ; there being as little resemblance between the
cases of Bndgell and Cato as there is reason fbr considering Addison's Cato written
in defence of suicide.
Of a healthier complexion is the anecdote of Edward Osborne, in 1536, leaping
into the Thames from the window of one of the Bridge houses, and saving his master's
iniknt daughter, dropped by a nurse-maid into the stream. The father. Sir William
Hewet, was Lord Mayor in 1559, and gave this daughter in marriage to Osborne^
whose great-grandson became the first Duke of Leeds.
In 1716, a very remarkable phenomenon occurred at London Bridge. The Tliames,
from long continued drought, and the consequent stopping of the supplies by its
tributaries, was reduced to so low a pitch, that many persons walked over its bed from
Southwark to the dty, and vice versd. During the twenty-four hours which this
extraordinary ebb — assisted as it was by a gale of wind from W.S.W. — lasted, many
interesting observations were made in respect to the foundation of the bridge, and a
variety of relics were found. To allow of extensive changes and repairs, a temporary
wooden bridge was built on the sterlings, or ancient coffer-dams, to protect the piers ;
it was burnt April 10, 1758, but rebuilt in a month. The centre pier and two arches
adjoining were then taken down and replaced by one large arch, the bridge widened
several feet> and reopened in 1759. These alterations are said to have cost
the large sum of 100,000/.
The annual loss of life and property that occurred through the dangerous state of
the navigation under the arches (the fall being at times five feet), and the perpetually
recurring expense of keeping the Bridge in repair, suggested, about the beginning of
the present century, its demolition and rebuilding ; but not until 1824 was the new
structure commenced, the first pile being driven March 15. It was designed by John
Bennie, F.B.S., and » about 100 feet westward of the old Bridge. In excavating the
foundations, were discovered brass and copper coins of Augustus^ Vespasian, and later
Boman emperors; Venetian tokens, Nuremberg count-ers, and a few Tradesmen's
Tokens ; brass and silver rings and buckles, ancient iron keys and silver spoons, the
remains of an engraven and gilt dagger, an iron spear-head, a fine bronze lamp (head
of Bacchus), and a small silver figure of Harpocrates : the latter preserved in the
British Museum. We may here notice, that upon the old Bridge g^w abundantly
SifymbHum Iris, or XiOndon Rocket, with small yellow flowers and pointed leaves : this
plant probably appeared here soon after the Great Fire of 1666, when it sprung up
thickly from among the City ruins.
Mr. Bennie died in 1821 ; but the works were continued by his sons, Mr. (now Sir
John) Bennie and Mr. Cieorge Bennie ; the builders being Mr. W. JoUiffe and Sir
Edward Banks. On June 15, 1825, the first stone was laid in a coffer-dam nearly
forty-five feet below high-water mark, opposite the southern arch (fourth lock), with
great ceremony, by the Lord Mayor (Garratt), in the presence of the Duke of York ;
and in the evening the Monument was illuminated with portable gas, to commemorate
the event. Two large gold medals were also struck on the occasion. The first arch
was keyed Aug^t 4, 1827 ; the last Nov. 19, 1828; and the Bridge was 'opened with
great state, August 1, 1831, by King William IV. and Queen Adelaide, who went and
returned by water, and were present at the banquet given on the Bridge ; the Lord
Mayor (Key) presiding ; and the King and Queen partaking of the loving-cup.
New London Bridge is unrivalled in the world ** in the perfection of proportion and
the true greatness of simplicity.'
f>
" It consbtsof five imi-elUptical arches, viz. two of 130 feet, two of 140 feet; and the centre, 16S
lar(
acc(
lept
edfl
feet 6 inches span, and 37 feet 6 inches rise, is perhaps the largest elliptical aroh ever attempted : the
" " ~ ■ of th ■ "
from
soft aUnrial bottom, covered' with large loose stones, scoured away by the force of the current from the
foundation of the old bridge, the whole of which had to be removed by dredging, before the ooiTcr-dams
roadway is 52 foot wide. This bridge deserves remark, on account of the difflcnlt sitoation in which it
was buut, being immediately above the old bridge, in a depth of from 25 to 30 feet at low wat^r, on a
for the piers and abutments could be commenced, otherwise it would have been extremelv difficult, if
not impracticable, to have made them water-tight ; the difficulty was itether increased by the old bridge
the
being left standing, to accommodate the traffic, whilst the new bridge was building; and the re-
stricted water-way of the old bridge occasioned such an increased velocity of the current as ma^rially
to retard the operations of the new bridge, and at times the tide threatened to carry away lUl before it.
The great magnitude and extreme flatness of the arches demanded unusual care in the selectioa of
BBIDQE'-LONDON. 69
the materulfl, which were of the finest blue and white granite from Scotland and Devonshira; ffreat
aomacy in the workmanship was also indispensable. The piers and abutments stand upon pltUtrorms
of timber restinr upon piles aboat 20 feet long. The masoniy is ttom 8 feet to 10 feet below the bed
of the ii?er.— ^ John JtemtU, FJU3.
The time occupied in the erection of the Bridge, firom driving the first pile, March 15,
18^ to its completion in July, 1831, was seven years five months and thirteen days,
during which it employed upwards of 800 men. Its huilding was attended with so
many local difficulties, that forty persons lost their lives in the progress of the works.
The total quantity of stone in the hridge is stated at 120,000 tons ; and the ends of
the parapets oonast of the largest blocks of granite ever hrought to this country. A
nngle cornice runs along the upper part of the bridge, supported on dentils formed
of solid beams of granite, marking externally the line of the roadway ; this is sur-
moonted by a close parapet, four feet high, upon which are lofty and massive bronzed
standards, with gas lanterns.
The amount paid to Messrs. Jolliffe and Banks for this bridge was 425,0812. 9s, 2d, ;
but the whole sum expended on it, including the approaches, was 1,458,3112. Ss. Hid,
The latter are very fine, especially the roadway into the City, where, at the suggestion
of Mr. Alderman Qibhs, a granite statue of King William was set up, to commemorate
the opening ; and a bronze equestrian statue of the Duke of Wellington, in front of
the Royal Exchange, was erected as an acknowledgment by the citizens of his Grace's
exertions in fiidlitating the means of erecting the new bridge.
The old Bridge was not entirely removed until 1832, when the bones of the builder,
Peter of Colechurch, were found beneath the masonry of the chapel, as if to complete
the eventful history of the ancient structure. The superstructure was enormously
thick. The roadway was 8J feet above the crowns of the arches, and had apparently
risen by the accumulations of five different strata, one of which was composed of charred
wood, the dibrit of the houses that had been destroyed by fire. The foundations were
very defective. The masonry was but 2j- feet below low-water mark, and rested on
oak planking 16 inches wide by 9 inches thick, whidi in turn was supported hy a mass
of Kenti3h rubble, mixed with chalk and flints, thrown in and held together by star-
lings. Parts of the piers had been faced at some early period, but very ill and care-
lessly, and no part of the original work rested on piles.
At the sale of the materials of this Bridge, Mr. Weiss, the cutler, of the Strand,
purchased all the iron, amounting to fifteen tons, with which the piles had been shod ;
and such portions as had entered the ground produced steel infinitely superior to any
which Mr. Weiss had ever met with. Upon examination, it was inferred that the
extremities of the piles having been charred, the straps of iron closely wedged between
them and the stratum in which they were imbedded, must have been subjected to a
galvanic action, which, in the course of some six or seven hundred years, produced the
above effects.
The stone proved finely-seasoned material : a portion of it was purchased of
Alderman Uumphery by Alderman Harmer, and used in building his seat. Ingress
Abbey, near Greenhitbe; the balustilades, of good proportions, were preserved.
Many snuff-boxes and other memorials were turned from the pile-wood.
The traffic across the old Bridge, in one day of July, 1811, amounted to 89,640
persoDS on foot, 769 waggons, 2924 carts and drays, 1240 coaches, 485 gigs and taxed
carts, and 764 horses. The present Bridge is capable of accommodating four continuous
streams of vehicles, with the addition of wide pavements for foot-passengers. The
traffic over the Bridge during the 24 hours ending at 6 f.h. has comprised : — Vehicles —
cabs, 4183; omnibuses, 4286; waggons, carts, &c., 9245; other vehicles, 2430;
hones, led or ridden, 54 — total, 20,498. Passengers : — In vehicles, 60,836 ; on foot,
107,074 — total, 167,910. — [See Chronicles of London Bridge, by an Antiquary
(Richard Thomson), 1827 ; where the researches of a lifetime appear to be condensed
into a single volume.]
WEsnnxsTEB Bbido^ was opened in 1750, until when the only oommnnicatioii
between Lambeth and \\^tminster washy the ferry-boat near Lambeth Palace Qates,
the property of the Archbishop of Canterbury, gpranted by patent under a rent of 20c2.
and for the loss of which ferry 22052. were given to the see.
70 CURIOSITIES OF LONDON.
Attempts to obtain another bridge over the Thames, besides that of London, were
made in the several reigns of Elizabeth, James I^ Charles I. and II., and George I. ;
but it was not until the year 1786 (10 Geo. II.), that Parliament authorized the bculd-
ing of a second bridge. The architect was Charles Labelye, a native of Switzerland :
the first stone was laid by the Earl of Pembroke, Jan. 29, 1738-9 ; and the. bridge was
opened Nov. 18, 1750. It consisted of fifteen semicircular arches, the centre seventy -six
feet span ; 1223 feet long by 44 feet wide. It was origmally intended for a wooden
bridge, and was partly commenced on this principle. The bottom courses of the piers,
were laid, or built, in floating- vessels, or ctussons, which when so loaded, were conducted
to their proper positions, and there sunk upon the natural alluvial bed of the river ;
the bottom of the ciussons thus forming, when the sides had been removed, the plat-
forms or foundations of the masonry, unsustained by underpiling, or any other support
than that of the gravel or sand on which they rested.
In the OentUman'i Magazine for 1760, a view of Westminster Bridge as then finished is given, with
this jnemorandam : — " Tms stmctnre is certainly a very great ornament to our metropolis, and will be
looked on with pleasure or envy by all foreigners. The surprising echo in the arches, brings much
company with French horns to entertain themselves under it in summer ; and with the upper part, for
an agreeable airing, none of the public walks or nrdens can stand in competition." For the protection
of passengers over it at night there was at this time a watch of twelve men I
I^belye states the quantity of stone in this Bridge to be nearly double that employed
in building St. Paul's Cathedral. " The caissons contained upwards of 150 loads of
timber, and were of more tonnage than a forty-gun vessel." (Sutton's Tracts). The
original cost of the Bridge is given as 393,189^., of which 145,0572. went to contrac-
tors and 248,1322. to other parties. The approaches cost 109,0542. It is worthy of
note that long before Labelye's bridge was erected, the place of croanng was known as
Westminster Bridge. (See Dr. Wallis to S. Pepys, Oct. 24, 1699.) In the old maps
the landing-place on the north shore is so marked.
Yast sums were expended in the repiur of this Bridge. Within forty years it cost
nearly half a million of money ; whereas the property of the Bridge only realized
74642. Us. Bd. In 1838, Mr. W. Cubitt found the caissons in a ^rfect state, the
wood (fir) retaining its resinous smell. After the removal of London Bridge,r as Tel-
ford foresaw, more than one of the Westminster piers gave way ; to stay thdr sinking,
in Aug. 1846 the thoroughfare was closed ; the balustrades and heavy stone alcoves
were removed, the stone-work stripped to the cornice, and the roadway lowered, thus
lightening it of 30,000 tons weight ; timber pidings were put up at the mdes, and the
Bridge was re-opened. The proportions of the sides are stated to have been so accurate,
that if a person spoke against the wall of any of the niches on one side of the way, he
might be distinctly heard upon the opposite side ; even a whisper was audible in the
stillness of the night. This was the last metropolitan bridge which had a balustrade
parapet, that of Blackiriars Bridge having been removed in 1839.
Westminster Bridge was built of magnesian limestone, containing from 24 to 42 per
cent, of carbonate of magnesia, from which Epsom salts are obtained by the application of
sulphuric acid. " If," said Dr. Ryan, in a lecture before the Royal Agricultural
Society, ** Westminster Bridge, built of that rock, were covered with water and suU
phuric add, it would be converted into Epsom salts."
It was upon Westminster Bridge, September 3, 1803, that Wordsworth poured forth
this truly majestic sonnet :-^
Earth has not anything to show more fair :
Dull would he be of soul who could pass by
A sight so toaching In its majesty :
This City now doth like a garment wear
The beauty of the morning; silent, bare.
Ships, towers, domes, theatres, and temples, lie
Open unto the fields, and to the sky.
All bright and glittering in the smokeless air.
Never did sun more beantiAilly steep
In his first splendour valley, rock, or hill;
Ne'er saw I, never felt, a calm so deep !
The river glideth at its own sweet will :
Ne'er saw I, never felt, a calm so deep !
The river glideth at its own sweet will :
Dear God ! the very houses seem asleep,
And all that mighty heart is lying still i
At length the construction of a new Bridge was commenced as near as possible to
the old one, the latter being used as a temporary bridge. The works were com-
BBWGE^WUSTMINSTEB, 71
■ ' .1111. a
menoed by T. Vage, C.R, aomewbat lower down the river, m the middle of 1859. No
eoffisr-dams were used ; but on the site of each pier, elm piles were driven deep below
the bed of the river into the London day. Boond these again were forced massive
izm carcolar pies, grooved at the edges, so as to admit of great sheets of cast iron
being slid down Uke shutters between them; the space they shut in being care-
iidly dred^^ out of mud to the bed of the river, the piles tied together with iron
Tod^ and the space filled in between with concrete ap to low-water mark, when the
masonry — enormoas dahe of granite, weighing from eight to twelve tons — ^was fixed
&r the pier, and on these were raised the masuve stono piers themselves. The arches
of the Bridge are seven in number, each formed of seven ribs, which are of cast-iron
nearly np to the crown, where, to av<nd danger from the concussion of heavy loeds^
tbey are of wrought metal. The arches vary in span, from the smallest, of 90 ft., to
the largest in the centre, of 120 ft., and from a height above high- water level of from
16 ft. to 20 It. In the spandrels of the srches are Gothic quatrefoils, fiUed with shields
of the arms of Westminster and England. The materials used in the construction of
the whole bridge were 4200 tons of cast and 1400 tons of wronght-iron, 80,000 cubic
prds of concrete, 21,000 enlnc yards of brickwork set in Portland cement, 166,000
enbic feet of granite, and 46,000 cubic feet of timber. Its gradient is 12 ft. lower than
the old Bridg^ and its total width more than double, so that it is, siie for siie, the
dieapert Bridge over the Thames that has yet been built, costing per superfidal foot
lev than half the price of any similar structure in London. The length, breadth, and
cost of each of the metropolitan Bridges have been as foUowa-:—
London .•••••
Soathwsrk . • • • •
JBJackAtus
Waterloo
HmiKerford
Wcstmiuster, old lldO
Westminster, new . • • •
Yaaxhall ......
Chelsea
New Bridge at Blaekfirian •
Thus it will be seen that the new Bridge is very nearly twice as wide as any of the
bridges over the Thames. Within the parapets it is 84 ft. 2 in. Of this the footways
occupy 28 ft., the road for the light traffic 39 ft., the tramways 14 ft. 8 in., and the
space between them 2 ft. 6 in. The tramways conust of iron-plates, bolted to timbers,
and laid upon an elastic bed of cork and bitumen. The kerb of the footway is formed
of Rosa of MuU granite; the footway itself is of Blashfield's terra-cotta, in diamond-
shaped tiles, grooved transversely. The Bridge was completed in 1863, and opened
May 24|, Her Majesty's birthday, at a quarter to 4 o'clock, the precise time when the
Qoeen waa.born ; and at that hour a salute of 25 guns was fired, a number correspond-
ing to the years of her reign.
** The mparalleled width prodnces a most striking effect as joiwwss on to the Bridge : if yon ^>proadi
It (hnn the Sorrejside of the river, it is singnlarlv imposing, asTt stretches its wide wsy before yon,
spuming the broad unseen river, and backed by the magnificent mass of the Houses of Parliament,—
nerer so well seen before, the visitor should see it for the first time thus— it is a thing to remember.
From the river the Bridge is less impressive. It is not so majestic as London Bridge, nor so beautiful as
Waterloo. The arches seem to press upon the water."— Cbsi^ium to tkt Almanack, 1803. Still, with
certain artistio defects, this is a noble bridge.
The old Bridjg^e was taken down in 1861 ; the hut arch, April 25, and the foundations
three months later : altogether, including the arches, more than 2,100,000 cubic feet
of masonry and brickwork were taken out.
Blacstbiass Bbidoe originated with a committee appointed, in 1746, to examine
Labelye's dengns for improring London Bridge; though the architect of Blackfnars
Bridge was Robert Mylne, a native of Edinburgh. " The first pile of it was driven in
the middle of the Thames, June 7, 1760 ; and the foundation-stone was hud by Sir
Thomas Chitty, Lord Mayor, Oct. 81. On Nov. 19, 1768, it was made passable as a
hridle-way, exactly two years after its reception of foot-passengers; and it was finally
and genendly opened on Sanday, Nov. 19, 1769. There was a toll of one halfpenny
Length.
Breadth.
Cost per
Keet.
Ft. in.
Square ft.
904 . .
63 6
. £11 6 0
800 . ,
42 6
11 6 10
9M . ,
42 0
3 16 6
1330 . .
41 6
. 10 0 0
1636 . .
13 4
4 16 6
lldO . ,
43 0
7 16 0
900
86 0
4 0 0
840 . ,
36 a
9 16 0
922
40 0
2 6 0
980
. 76 0
8 6 0
72 CUBIOSITIES OF LONDON.
for every foot-pnssenger, and one penny on Sundays ; bat on January 22, 1786, tbe
tolls were redeemed by Cbvernment. The toll-house was burnt down in the Riots of
1780, when all the aocount-books were destroyed." — {Chronicles of London Bridge,
pp. 568, 569.) The total cost of building and completing the Bridge and avenues
thereto was 261,579^. Of. Q^d.; including 21,250/. lls.dd, paid to the Watermen's
Company for the Sunday ferry.
" Under the foundation-stone were placed sevenJ pieces of gold, silver, and copper coins of GeorfTO
II., together with a silver medal ffiven to Mr. Hylne, the architect, by the Academv of St. Luke, with a
copper rim round it, having tlie following inscriptiona. On the one side. ' In architectura nneatiuitiae
pncmium (ipsa Roma judioe), Roberto Mvlne pontis hT\}u8 arehitectoni grato animo poeuit.^" Upon
** a plate or platee of pure tin" was a Latm inscription, stating the Bridge to haye oeen nndertaken
by the Common Coundi of London (amidst tbe rage of an extensive war), and that there might re-
main to posterity a monument of this citv'e affection to the man, who, by tbe strength of his Tcnios,
the steaoiness of his mind, and a certain kind of happy contagion of his probity and spirit (under the
Divine favour and fortunate auspices of George II.) recovered, augmented, and secured the British
Empire in Asia, AMca. and America, and restored the ancient reputation and influence of this country
amongst the nations of Europe, the citizens of London unanimously voted this bridge to be inscribed
with the name of William Fitt. It was for a short time called " Pitt Bridge," which was soon
changed to Black friars Bridge; but the names of William and the Earl of Chatham still live in
WilUam-ttreet, Sari-Street^ and Chatham-plaoe.
Mylue's success was owing, in a great measure, to the exertions of his fnend, John
Faterson, City Solicitor; and they being of the Anti> Wilkes party, and of the same
couiitr}* as Lord Bate, the unpopular First Minister of the Crown, Churchill, in bis
poem founded on the Ckxsk-lane Ghost story, has scathed both Mylne and Faterson.
The Bridge was built of Portland stone, and consisted of nine semi-elliptical arches,
then introduced about the first time in this country, in opposition to Gwyn, who, in
his design, proposed the semicircular arch. The columns were the most objectionable
feature in Mylne's '''.esign, architecturally ; for the line of the parapet being a curve,
the pillars were necessarily of different heights and diameters. Between 1833 and
1840, the Bridge was thoroughly repaired by Walker and Burgess, at an expense of
74,035/., it is stated at a loss to the contractors. The foot and carriage ways were
lowered; the removal of the balustrades, and the substitution of a plain parapet^
altogether spoiled the architectural beauty of the structure. It is traditionally said
that our great landsape-painter, Richard Wilson, used to make frequent visits to Black-
friars Bridge, to study the magnificent view of St. Paul's Cathedral obtained firom it.
At length, the Court of Common Council resolved to build a new Bridge upon the
site of the old Bridge, but much wider ; and the dengn of Joseph Cubitt was selected
-—to consist of five iron arches, surmounted by an ornamental cornice and parapet, and
the iron floor covered with a layer r f concrete, and paved with granite ; each of the
four piers having a massive <. lumn o" red polished granite. A temporary wooden
bridge 900f[^^. in length, having three arches of 75fb. span for the river trafiic ; the
carriage- wsy is 26ft. wide, aid above it, at an elevation of 16ft., two footways, each
9ft. wide, were erected : the old bridge wbs then closed, and its demolition commenced
forthwith ; the rubble and masonry above the arch-turnings was nearly 20,000 tons
weight. The cost of this Bridge, four equestrian statues, and the temporary bridge, is
stated at 265,000/., or 82. per foot super. At 150 feet eastward an iron lattice girder-
bridge hnd been constructed for*the London, Chatham, and Dover Sailway.
Yauilhall Bbidqe, communicating with Millbank, had, in consequence of disputes,
four engineers : Ralph Dodd, Sir Samuel Bentham, John Rennie, F.R.S. ; and lastly,
James Walker, who carried the design into effect at the expense of a public Company.
Tlie Bridge is of cast-iron, but was originally intended to be of stone : hence the
narrowness of the nine arches, which would not have been necessary for an iron
structure. The first stone of the pier begun by Mr. Rennie was laid by Lord
Dundas, as proxy for the Prince Regent, May 9, 1811. The building was then sus-
pended, but transferred to Mr. James Walker; the first stone of the resumed works
was laid by the late Duke of Brunswick, August 21, 1813 ; and on June 4, 1816,
the bridge was opened.
The width of the river is 900 feet at this Bridge, the length of which, clear of the
abutments, is 806 feet ; its 9 arches are each 78 feet span, and its 8 piers, each 13
feet wide ; height of centre arch, at high water, 27 feet. Tbe bridge cost upwards of
300,000/. ; its half-year's clear revenue from tolls in 1849-60 was 2986/. 3s. 4d. The
BBUDGES— WATERLOO— SOUTHWABK. n
[ 9 i^roozids west of the bridge, and fonnerly known as the Neatbouse Gardens, were
UrTited to a level with the Fimlico-road, by transporting hither the sml excavated
^-rm St. CaUterine's Docks ; and npon this artifidal foundation several streets were
sclL The roadway on the sooth nde crosMS the site of the Cumberland Tea Gardens.
^ATESxoo Rrzdge has been dignified by Canova as " the noblest bridge in the
v^rid,'' and by Baztm Dupin as " a colossal monument worthy of Sesostris and the
C£fir&" It was partly projected by George Dodd, the engineer, and 'l^wngy^nl for
ii=3 ly John LinneU Bond, architect, who died in 1837 ; but the bridge was eventually
tHi for a public Company by John Rennie, F.R.S. It crosses the Thames from the
^:n:^ b^ween Somerset Place and the ate of the Savoy, to Lambeth, at the centre
cf *^ ate of Coper's Grardens, where the fint stone was laid October 11, 1811.
Tlus Bridge oonsists of nine semi-elliptical arches, each 120 feet span and 35 feet
^^ supported on piers 20 feet wide at the springing of the arches; with " oaeleBB
&i '^appropriate Gredan- Doric oolomns between the piers, snrmounted by the anoma-
^* decoration of a balnstrade upon a Doric entablature." — (Elmet,) llie width of
tU Tiames at this part is 1326 feet at high water ; the entire length of the bridge
i» ^156 feet — the bridge and abutments being 1380 feet, the approach from the Strand
^10 feet, and the land-arch causeway on the Surrey side 766 feet. The roadway upon
*lt atmmit of the arches is carried upon brick arches to the level of the Strand ; and
^ A gentle declivity upon a series of brick arches over the roadway upon the Surrey
^^ of the river to the level of the roads near the Obelisk by the Surrey Theatre.
TJs district, until the building of the Bridge, was known as Lambeth Marsh, was
jyf-Uia^ and swampy, with thinly scattered dwellings ; but in a few years it became
^'Tered with streets of houses.
Tbe Bridge is built of granite, - " in a style of solidity and magnifioenoe hitherto
'■^^kojwn. There elliptical arches, with inverted arches between them to counteract
-'- lateral pressure, were carried to a greater extent than in former bridges; and
•^ lited ooffer-dams upon a great scale in a tidal river, with steam-engines for pnmp-
^ cTxt the water, were, it is believed, for the first time employed in this country ; tbe
^el lux of roadway, which adds bo much to tbe beauty as well as the convenience of
'-U structure, was there adopted." — (Sir John EeHnie, FM.S.) The Bridge was
]*?&td. by a prooesdon of tbe Prince Regent and the Dukes of York and Wellington,
ted a grand military cavalcade, on June 18, 1817, the second anniveraaiy of the battle
'•i Waterloo, whence it is named. The Bridge itself cost about 400,000/., which, by
tbe expense of the approaches, was increased to above a million of money — a larger
^szi than the cost of building St. Paul's, the Monument, and seven of our finest metro-
;c-Ltan chorches. It has-been a ruinous speculation to the Company, the tolls amount-
^ to little more than 20,000/. per annum.
Fonnerly, the average number of suicides annually committed from Waterloo
B?kjge was 40 ; in September, 1841, there were nine attempts made» within a few
diTR, to commit suicide from Blackfriars Bridge.
ikfxrrawAXK Bridge, designed by John Rennie, F.R.S., was built by a public
Ciimpany, and cost about 800,000/. It consists of three cast-iron arches : tbe centre
-if* feet span, and the two nde arches 210 feet each, about forty-two feet above the
Lighest spring-tides: the ribs forming, as it were, a series of hollow masses, or
vifcs»3ii% nmilar to those of stone, a principle new in the construction of cast-iron
Vtdgea, and very succeasful. The whole of the segmental pieces and the braces are
htyt in their places by dove-tailed sockets and long cast-iron wedges^ so that bolts are
£2i^eop98ary ; although they were used during the construction of the bridge, to keep
Vj^ piecis in their places untO the wedges had been driven. The spandrels are similarly
connected, and upon them rests tbe roadway of solid plates of cast iron, jcnned by iron
rement. The piers and abutments are of stone, founded upon timber platforms, resting
::pon pdes driven below the bed of the river. The masonry is tied throughout by
TiTtlcal and horizontal bond-stones, so that the whole acts as one mass in the best
podtion to resist the horizontal thrust. The first stone was laid by Admiral Lord
KL'ith,Mav 23, 1815, the Bill for erecting the Bridge having been passed May 6, 1811.
The iron-work^ weight 5700 tons, had been so well put together by the Walkets* of
74 0UBI08ITIE8 OF LONDON.
Botherham, the foanders, and the masonry by the oontracton, Jolliffe Banks ; that
when the work was finished, scarcely any ainkhig was discernible in the arches. From
experiments made to ascertain the exteat of the expansion and contraction between
the extreme range of winter and summer temperature, it was found that the arch rose
in the summer about 1 inch to 1^ inch. The works were commenced in 1813, and
the bridge was opened by lamp-light, March 24, 1819, ■ as the dock of St. Paul'a
Cathedral tolled midnight. Towards the middle of the western dde of the
bridge is a descent from the pavement to a steamboat pier. The bridge was opened
free of toll, for six months, by the Lord Mayor (Lawrence), Nov. 8, 1864;, with a view
to its purchase, ultimately, by the City of London.
'* Within a fraction, London Bridge has as much traffic as all the rest put together, the
proportions being — London equal to all ; Westminster half of London ; Blackfriara
half of Westminster; Waterloo one third of Blackfriars; and Southwark one-fourth
of Waterkx).** — JBeftnoch on the Bridges of London, 1853.
HxTNOSSFOBD S(rsPEirsiOK.BBiDaB, fr-om Hungerford Market to Belvedere Road, Lam-
beth, was constructed by I. E. Brunei, F.R.S., and was a fine spedmen of mechanical skilL
It consisted of two lofty brick piers, or towers, in the Italian style, designed by Ban-
ning, 68 feet above the road, and built in brickwork and cement on the natural bed of
the river, without piles. In the upper part of these towers, four diuns passed over
rollers, so as to equalize the strain : they carried the platform or roadway, in two
lines, with angle suspension rods, 12 feet apart; the chains being secured in tunnels at
the abutments to iron girders^ embedded in brickwork and cement, and strengthened
with concrete. There were three spans, the central one between the piers beings
676^ feet, or 110 feet wider than the Menai Bridge ; and second only to the span of
the Mrire suspension-bridge at Fribourg, which is nearly 900 feet. The length between
the abutments of the Hungerford Bridge was 1352^ feet. The roadway was in the
centre 32 feet above high-water mark, or 7 feet higher than the crown of the centre
arch of Waterloo Bridge. The height above the piers was 28} feet. Thus was
gained additional height for the river traffic, and a graceful curve, with the appearance
of swaging prevented. The Bridge was commenced in 1841, and was built without
any scaffi)lding but a few ropes, consequently, without impe^ment to the navigation of
the river. The iron-work, between 10,000 and 11,000 tons, was by Sandys and Co^
ComwalL The entire cost of the Bridge was 110,000/., raised by a public Company.
Tlie toll was a halfpenny each person each way. The Bridge was opened May 1,
1845, when, between noon and midnight, 36,254 persons passed over. Hungerford
was then the great focus of the Thames steam-navigation, the embarkations and
landings here exceeding 2,000,000 per annum. The Bridge was taken down in 1863,
and the chains were carried to Clifton, for the Suspension-Bridge erecting there.
Upon its site has been constructed the Bridge for the Charing Cross Extenaon of the
South Eastern Railwa}' : it has on each side a foot-path and ornamental balustrade ;
and in the centre four lines of rails, expanding fanwise into seven lines on approaching
the Charing Cross terminus. The Bridge for carrying the Railway across the Thames
to the City terminus, in Upper Thames-street, is similar to the Charing Cross Bridge^
but 12 feet wider.
Haiocsbshith Svsfekbiok-Bsidgb is one of the most elegant structures of its
kind ; and, unlike other suspension-bridges, has part of the roadway supported on, and
not hanging from, the main chains. The weight of the masonry abutments on each
bank is 2160 tons, to renst the pull of the chains. Cost, 80,000/. ; engineer, W.
Tiemey CUirke; first stone Uud by the Duke of Sussex, May 7, 1826 ; finished 1827.
Chelsea Subfsnsiok-Ijridoe, opened in 1858, forms a communication between
Hmlico, Belgravia, and Chelsea, on one side of the Thames, and Battersea Park, and
the neighbourhood, on the other (the Middlesex roadway crossing the dte of Rane-
lagh), and was built with funds granted by Parliament in 1846; Geo. Gordon Pftge,
engineer. The length of the Bridge is 704 feet : it condsts of a centre opening of
333 feet, with two side openings 166 feet 6 inches each. The piers temunate in
BUCKLEBSBUBY—BmrniLL-FIELBS. 75
enrred cntwaten : the width of the Bridge is 47 feet; the roadway at the centre of the
Bri^ it 24 feet 6 inchea above high-water, and has a carve of 18 inches rise, com-
mcndng at the abutments. The towers and ornamental portions are of cast-iron.
The ginien and flooring of the phitform are of wrought u'on : ironwork by Howard,
Barenbill, & Co. The piers are built npon oussonF, below which the ironwork spreads
out at the bottom on bed-plates that rest npon York stone landings, laid on piles, and
concrete supports ; externally, the piers are cfued with ornamental ironwork. The
abutments and piers rest npon piles driven 20 feet beyond low-water mark. On each side
nf the carriago way is a tram for heavy traffic. A very large amount of additional
strength is obtained over the ordinary suspension construction by two longitudinal
lattice gilders, of wrought iron, which separate the roadway from the footpaths. At
each end of the bridge are rectangular lodges, with terra-ootta terminations. The
four iron towers that rise from the caissons and piers have their upper portions of
modded copper, gilded and painted to resemble bronze, and crowned with globular
lsm]». The towers bear the royal arms and V. A. Yet, this public way across the
Tlitines — although built ostenmbly with the public money to afford the ii^bitants of
Middloex acoeaa to Battersea/retf park — ^had a horse, carriage, and foot toU, an anomaly
which was loudly reprehended.
At a short distance eastward is the Bridge for the Victoria Station and Pimlico
Bailway; the ironwork by Bray and Waddington, of Leeds; Fowler, engineer;
opened in 1860. The stone piers, and the framework of the spandrels of the four flat
and a^gmental iron arches, each 175 feet span, and the iron comioe, render this one of
the handsomest railway bridges over the Thames.
Laxbeth Subpsnsiov Brdoge, connects Horseferry-road, Westminster, with
Chorch-street, Lambeth, P. W. Barlow, engineer; and though constructed for both
curiage and foot traffic, it cost, including the approaches, only 40,0002. Its entire
l^igth is 1040 feet ; it has three spans of 280 feet each, of wire cable, bearing wrought-
iiun platforms, anaponded from piers, each of two iron cylinders, 12 feet in diameter,
nnk into the Londcm day, 18 f&et below the bed of the river, filled with concrete and
^kwork ; the novelty consists in placing under the bridge, on each mde, a longi-
todlnal tubular iron girder, a croas girder between, so as to reduce to the minimum the
opvard, downward, and lateral movement.
BUCKLEB8BUJRT,
A SHORT street at the point where the Poultry meets Cheapside : here formerly
-^ stood the great Conduit which brought water from Conduit Mead, near Oxford-
nid and Paddington. , Stow writes : " Bncklersbory, so called of a manor and tene-
Qoita pertaining to one Buckle, who dwelt there, and kept his courts." The manor-
loose, in Stow's time, bore the ugn of the Old Barge, from its being said, that when
^albrook hiy open, barges were rowed or towed out of the Thames up here : hence
t^e present Barge Yard. Bucklersbnry was a noted place for grocers and apothecaries^
^^nigitcm and fbrriers. In Shakspeare's days it was, probably, a herb-market ; for he
ban the comparison of smelling *< like Bnckler's-buiy m nmple-time." — (Merry Wivet
0/ Fisawr, Act liL sc 8.)
BUNHILL-FIELBS, .
X^^^K Finsbury-square, one of the three gp^cat fields of the manor of Finsbury,
«^ named Bonhill Field, Mallow Field, and the "High Field, or Meadow Gbound.
*liere the three windmills stand/' Bonhill was erected in the rdgn of Queen Elizabeth,
^ a deposit made of " more than 1000 cartloads" of bones removed from the chamel
of old St Planrs, which, it is believed, gave rise to the name Bonehill or BunhiU Fields.
In 1653, a lease was granted to the Corporation of this with other land, being the
property of the Prebendal Stall of Finsbory, in St. Paul's Cathedral ; and by various
fenewals of this lease, the Corporation held the hind until 176:^, when the last of
the leases expired. Prior to this the Statute of Charles II. had passed, by which
P^nooa of all degrees were prohibited from granting leases of Church property
76 CT7BI08ITIE8 OF LONDON.
for longer periods than forty years ; and thus, in 1769j the growth of London having^
rendered it desirable that the land should be built over, a private Act was passed
authorizing the then- Prebend, Dr. Wilson, to lease the land to the Corporation for
ninety-nine years, upon the terms of two-sixths of the net income to be received by
them being paid to the Prebend as his own property (in lieu of any fine for the grant
of the lease), one-aixth to the Prebendal Stall, and the remaining three-sixths to be
retained by the Ck>rporation. This lease will expire in 1868. Wilson-street is named
from the Prebend, the Rev. Dr. Wilson.
The earliest known record of the Bunhill-fields themselves, as distinguished from the
rest of the land in the lease, is that the City leased them to one Tindal, for fifty-one
years, from Christmas, 1661 : in that lease they are described as meadow-land, and
the lease contains a provision for the citizens using them for recreation. Both tbia
provision and the description of the land are at direct variance with its having been
used as a place of burial up to that date. In four years afterwards, however (1665),
London was visited with the Great Plague, and in the next year with the Great Fire ;
and it is extremely probable that in the disturbance of social order which these two
visitations caused, the living sought for their dead a burial-place outside the City, and
found it at Bunhill-fields. Certain it is, that before the expiration of Tindal's lease
it had become a burial-ground. As such, however, the Corporation had nothing to do
with it, until the year 1788, when they determined not to renew the lease, but take it
into their own hands, and so it has remained to this day.
Since 1788 the Prebend has year by year received his moiety of the income of the
ground as a cemetery, and as that cemetery now reverts to those churning under the
Prebend, ».«., the Ecclesiastical Commissioners, they have imposed upon them the obliga-
tion of preserving the ground for the purpose for which they have received the money.
There remains but one point from w^hich liability is sought to be imposed upon the
Corporation. It is said the Act of Parliament authorized the renewal of the lease in
perpetuity, and that the City, through their negligence in not ha^ng obtained a re-
newal of the lease, must indemnify the owners of g^ves. It were to be wished, for
the City's sake, that the renewal were authorized, as they lose in 1868, throogh the
expiring of the lease, an income of 40,0002. per annum ; but^ imfortunately, thb is not
the fact. The mistake has arisen from the marginal note saying the lease is renew-
able ; but there is nothing in the Act to warrant the note, and no one at this distance
of time can expliun how the error has arisen. — {Communicated to the City Press,)
Curll published a Register of the interments here to I7l7, with the inscriptions, &c.
Among these are the following :—
" Here Iveth interred the body of Edward Tucker, late of Weymouth, who (by his own prediction)
departed this life, March 4th. 1706-7. aged 86 jears." " This ground, six foot long eastward is boug^ht
for Elizabeth Chapman." This notice is valaable, as conclusively showing ihaX, even at that early
period, graves were sold in perpetuity, and any attempt to sell the soil for secular purpooes would be a
most unwarrantable desecration. ** Here lyeth the body of Francis Smith, Bookseller, who in his
Iouth was settled in a separate congregation, sustaining, between 1659 and 1688, great persecutioDS, by
m^risonments, exile, fines, and for printing petitions for caling of a Parliament, with several thinca
asainst Popery. After nearly 40 imprisonments, he was fined 6001. for printing and selling the speech
of a noble peer, and three times suffered corporeal punishment. He was for said fine five years a
prisoner in the King's Bench, which hard duress utterly impaired his health. He dyed Houjie-
keeeper in the Custom House, December 22nd, 1691." Eugraved on the side of a handsome tomb^
" Mordecal Abbott, Esq., Beociver-General of His Msjesty's Customs, obiit 29 Feby. 1609, ntat. 43 x
Here Abbott, virtue's great example, lies.
The charitable, pious, just, and wise;
But how shall fame in this small Table paint
The Husband, Father, Master, Friend, and Saint P
A soul on Earth so ripe for glory found ;
6o like to theirs, who are with glory crown'd.
That 'tis less stranare such wortn so soon should go
To Heaven, than that it staid so long below."
Mr. A. J. Jones, in a volume published in 1849, gives a transcript of most of the
inscriptions that remained in Bunhill-fields at that period, about three hundred.
Among the eminent persons interred here, in an altar-tomb, east end of the ground,
is Dr. Thomas Goodwin, the Independent preacher, who attended Oliver Cromwell on
his deathbed. Also Dr. John Owen, Dean of Christchurch and Vico-Chancellor of
Oxford when Cromwell was Chancellor ; he preached the first sermon before the Parlia-
BTTNHILL-FIELBS. 77
■est after the exeeotion of Charles I. Bat more attractive ib the resting-place of
l^iBa. Birajaii, in the vault of his friend Stmdwick, the grocer, Holhom Bridge, at
nose hoow Banjan died. His name is not recorded in the Register, nor is it in Corirs
la& ; bat the {dace vras long marked by a monoment^ with this inscription : — '* Mr. John
^ijan, Antfaor of The IHlffrim's Proffrew, ob. 31 Aug. 1688, set 60.
The ' pilgrimV progrets now la finlBhed,
And DM^h haa laid him in this earthlj bed."
TMs inseriptian was cat many years after Banyan's fnneraL Sonthey tells ns, with grave
iaamr, " People like to be buried in company, and in good company. The D^aen-
%as vegsrded BanhiU Fields' Burial-gronnd as their Campo Santo, and especially for
Sanaa's sake. It is said that many have made it their desire to be interred as near
k» poaaUe to the qiot where his remains are deposited." In May, 1852, the above me-
&7ial was replaced by an altar-tomb, upon which is the recumbent figure of Banyan.
Uxik ia hand; the end paneb have sculptures from The Pilgrim* 8 Progrett.
Here, too, sLeepa Lord-Deputy Fleetwood, of the Civil Wars, Oliver Cromwell's son-
'^aw, and hofibuid of the widow of Ireton : there was a monument to his memory^
vlarh has been obliterated or removed.
Here alao rest Dr. Daniel Williams, founder of the Library in Redcross-street ; John
DastcQ. author of his own Life and Errors ; the Bev. D. Neal, author of the Hitiorg
^ihe Pwitana; Br. Lardner, author of the Credibility of the Gospel History ; Dr.
J-:^ Gni^ Dr. Oill» Dr. Stennett, Dr. Harris ; Dr. Richard Price, author of Sever-'
armory JPaymenie ; Dr. Henry Hunter, Dr. Fisher, the Rev. Theophilns Lindsey ;
Lir. A. Bees^ editor of the Cyelopmdia ; Qeorge Walker, of Nottingham and Man-
dtiSteTi Aod the Bev. Thomas Belsham, the Unitarian Minister.
Defoe, the author of Bobinson Crusoe, who was bom and died in the parish of St.
GDb, Cripplegat«, is buried in Bunhill-fields, vrith his second wife, the spot unknown.
Toe entry in the roister, written, probably, by some ignorant person who made a
ftrange hlunder of his name, is as follows : — " 1731, April 26. Mr. Dubow, Cripple-
fxe." Here Bee, with a headstone to her memory, Susannah Wesley, mother of John
'^'e^ej, founder of the people called Methodists ; and Charles Wesley, the first perwn
' vk> was called a Methodist. Near the centre of the groond is a monument to Dr.
LiMc Watte ; Joseph Ritson, the antiquary, lies here, spot unmarked ; William Blake,
tc pomter and poet, 25 feet from the north wall, without a monument ; and Thomas
Vx^hard, K.A., hest known by his Canterbury Pilgrimage, Near the street rails is'
I sBODument to Thomas Hardy, who was tried for treason in company with John Home
Tocke. Hardy's memorial bears a long and somewhat defiant semi- political inscription.
In 1864* Mr. Deputy Charles Reed, F.S.A., presented to the Common Council a
sanorial, inflnentisdly signed, praying the Court to take steps for the preservation of
^mfaill-fields barial-ground. This memorial eloquently says :— «
' Is tins banriDS'-ffronnd are interred men whose memorj and writings are among the most predons
cf oor naskxBal hetrioomf ; some of the most fearlera aaserters of ciTil and religioaa liberty at critical
p^kMb of 9m: history ; notable m«n of all professions and of all reU^ous communities ; divines,
siisu, r^dmieni ; a crowd of worthies and confessors whose learning, piety, and pablic services not
.•^T adonsed the a^ in which th^ lived, but have proved a permanent olening to the land, and whose
baaes the world will not willinglv let die. The Nonconformist bodies, especially, look upon this as the
bi^T fidd of their illastrioas dM^ because here lie buried those whose remains were revised interment
ia iht graTerardi of the churches in which they had lon^ fiuthftilly ministered, and whose memory is
KTerently Perished in the hearts and homes or their religious descendants."
George Fox, founder of the Society of Friends, is erroneously said to have been
boried here ; but he lies in Coleman-street, which was part of Finsbory Manor Farm,
and waB» before Fox's death, acquired by the Friends as their place of interment ;
U:<ide8, the Friends were looked upon in no favourable manner by the other dissenting
Vidies, who had acquired Bnnhill- fields. In Fox's diary it is related how, after the
meeting in White Hart Court, Gracechurch- street, he went to Henry Goldney's, close
W, and there admitted to others that " he thought he felt the cold strike to his heart as
be came out of the meeting." It was "the 13th of the 11th month," 1690, being in
tk 67tb year ai his age, that Fox died. On the day appointed for his interment a meet-
iog otFiJenda was held in White Hart Court, and " the body was borne, accompanied
^ ferj gnat nimibera, to the Friends' burying-ground, near JBunhill Fields." Hasty
ftaden hare inferred from this that it was in the larger cemetery George Fox was buried.
78 ouBiosirms of lonbok
CANONBUET TOWER,
AT the northern extremity of the parish of IsUnfipton, denotes the site of the conntry-
house of the Prior of tiie Canons of St. Bartholomew; henoe» it is supposed, the
name of Canons'-bory, hwry htang synonymous with hurgh, a dwelling. On a garden-
house hard by is sculptured the rebus or device of Bolton, the last prior — a holt, or
arrow for the crossbow, through a tun :
" Old Prior Bolton, with his bolt and tan."
The Tower, which is of red brick, is believed to have been built by Sir John
Spencer, of Crosby-place, who purchased the estate in 1570. Elizabeth, his only
daughter and heiress, married William, second Lord Compton, who is traditionally said
to have contrived her elopement from her father's house at Canonbury in a baker's
basket. In 1618, he was created Earl of Northampton, and from him the present
owner of Canonbury, who is the eleventh Earl and third Marquis of Korthampton, is
lineally descended.
The Tower is 17 feet square, and nearly 60 feet in height, and consists of seven
stories and 28 rooms. For many years it was let in lodgings. Amongst its tenants
was Ephraim Chambers, whose Cyclopesdia was not only the bans of Bees's work,
but originated all the modem Cyclopedias in the English and the other European
languages. Chambers died at Canonbury, May 18, 1740, and was buried in West-
minster Abbey, under a short Latin inscription, his own composition. Newbeiy, the
bookseller, lodged here ; and in his apartments Goldsmith often lay concealed from his
creditors, and under a pressing necessity he there wrote his Vicar of Wakefield ; " he
was the most diligent slave that ever toiled in the mill of Grub-street."
" A sUly notion at one time prevailed that there was formerly a subterranean com-
munication between Canonbury House and the Priory of St. Bartholomew. Similar
vulgar and absurd stories are current at most of the large monasteries ; as Malmesbury,
Netley, Glastonbury, &c." — (Oodv3in*8 Churches of London,)
The ancient priory manrion covered the entire site now occupied by Canonbury-
place, and had attached to it a park of about four acres, with large g^ardens, a fish-
pond, &c ; most of which were included in the premises of Canonbury Tea-g^ardens and
.Tavern, in the middle of the last century but a small ale-house. It was barged and
improved by a Mr. Lane, who had been a private soldier ; but its celebrity was chiefly
owing to tiie widow Sutton, who redded here from 1785 to 1808^ and hud out the
bowling-green and grounds. The streets which now cover the Canonbury estate are
mostly named from the titles of the Marquis of Northampton, the ground landlord.
CAHVINGS IN WOOD.
THE art of Sculpture in Wood has ever been royally and nobly encouraged in
England ; and the metropolis contains many fine specimens of ancient and modem
skill in this tasteful branch of decoration.
The figures carved upon the chestnut roof of Westminster Hall show the degree of
excellence the art had attained in this country so early as the reign of Richard II.
The sculptured arms on the corbels are those of France and England, quarterly ; and of
St. Edward the Confessor, as borne by Richard II. ; whose fiivourite badge, viz., the
white hart, lodged, ducally gorged and chained, and his crest of a lion guardant
crowned, standing on a chapean and helmet, are also carved, in alternate succession,
on the cornice.
There is every reason to suppose the timber architectm*e of Old London to have been
elaborate and beautiful, 'nil about the year 1625, nearly all the houses were built of
wood : the interiors of the better sort were often richly carved, particularly in the
panels of rooms, chimney-pieces, ceilings, and staircases; and the exteriors displayed a
mmilar love of ornament in the doors and barge-boards, and story corbels.
The Great Fire of 1666 spared few specimens of early wood-carving ; biit several
exist in quarters not reached by the destroyer. Of existing Gothic work may be
CABYINQ8 m WOOD. 79
me&tioDed the deoomtioDS of Crosby Hall, much injured, however, by ** restoration."
The ezoellenily curved stalls in the church of St. Helen, Bishopsgate, and those of the
Chiq>d of Henry VII. at Westminster, are nnnsoally magnificent^ and were mostly
cxecoted by foreign workmen summoned to England by Henry VII.
In the reign of Elizabeth, not only the houses of the nobility were decorated, but
fhinitiire made of British woods was richly carved : the late Mr. Cottingham, F.S.A.,
imombkd many unique specimens of tliis period, which were dispersed in 1851.
In the Elizabethan style may also be mentioned :—
Two siilendid brackets (griflBns), dated lfi02» sapportin^ the yard entrance at 21, Prinees-aqoare,
Wibon-ctmt, FSnsbory.
Two luroae-ftonts hi Aldengate-street
Some boldly canred brackets (1506), at the Old Boar's Head, Gray'a-Iim-lane.
Panel and tmsseB over the mantel of the Cook Tavern, Fleet^treet {temp. James L). The room was
fbnnerly panelled oppodte the fire-place. The sign bird, over the entrance doorway nrom Fleet-street,
Is in tlie manner of (jibbons, and gilt.
Bneketa (teap. James I.) at the bsck of the house, 61, Gray's-Inn-lane.
Tfacte was some fine Elizabethan panelling in the Star Chamber at Westminster, taken down in 1836 j
bat restored for the Hon. £. Cost, Leasowe Castle.
Bradceta, very fine, at the comer of Cloth Fair, Smithfldd.
Honae front, M^ Fenchnrdi'Street,
Several hooae-ftonts, rather later, in Whitechapel Market.
The Sir Panl Pindar's Head, Bishopegate-street-without, has a finely carved front, and a carved odl-
ing in one of the onmodemized rooms.
The projecting boose-front (now gUt), 17, Fleet-street, opposite Chancery-lane.
Mask bradels {temp. James J.)» at the front and back of the Old Cheshire Cheese, 46, Hart-street,
City; and a spirited groteaqne head (same date) within the court of Red-Lion-place, Cock-lane.
▲ fine staircase, attriboted to Inigo Jones (probablv later), at 96, St Ifsrtin's-Iane, Charing Cross.
At the White Horse Inn, Church-street, Chehea, (burnt Deo. l4 IS^i) were four grotesque Eliza-
bethan brackets^ carved chimney-pieees ; and a carved firame for the sign, dated 1509.
The most celebrated carver after the Great Fire was Grinling Gibbons, who, Wal-
pole tells OS, so delicately carved a pot of flowers, that they shook in the room with the
motion of coaches pasnng in the street. Most of the interior carvings of St. Paul's
Cathedral were executed by Gibbonsi, or by Dutch workmen under his superintendence;
the dieraba in the choir are in the highest style of the art.
One of the best carvers employed by Wren was Philip Wood, who came up a poor lad
from Suffolk, and carved as a specimen of his skill a sow and pigs, for . which he rc-
CQvod ten guineas. According to the Conmussioners* Report, between the years 1^01
and 1707, Wood was paid large sums of money for carved work in St. Paul's Cathedral.
It IS not generally known that the pulpit at St. Paul's was designed by Mylne, and
executed about sixty years since by one of the finest flower-carvers of the time, named
Howatt, then employed by a relative of Edward Wyatt, the carver and ^der, in Ox-
ford-street. The pulpit is carved in Spanish mahogany and satin-wood ; the foliitge
is marvdlously played with in the volutes.
Many of the Halls of the City Companies are decorated with reputed Gibbons's work ;
ai wen as the interiors of meet of the churches built by Sir Christopher Wren. St.
Jame^s, Piccadilly, has some fine pulpit, altar, and pew carvings; and the churchwardens'
pews at Allhallows Barking (with the symbols of the four Evangelists), are amongst
the most delicate decorations of their time in the metropolis. The Hall of Heralds'
College is also well enriched in the Gibbons style; and a beautiful specimen of Gibbons's
akiU in fruit, flab, game, shells, &c is preserved at the New River House, ClerkenwclL
At Canonbuxy House, Islington, the great chamber contains a quaintly carved oak
fireplace, in which are small statues of Mars and Venus draped. The room had
originally wood panelling and carved pilasters placed at intervals ; all this, with the
exception of two or three pilasters, has disappeared; the doorway with the busts of
the old English gentleman and dame in the quaint costume of the time, is very curious.
These doorways generally projected like small screens into these great rooms, and were
used as a protection from the cold. Its Roman moulding and enriched frieze-like running
ornament throughout the building of the same character as the latter. The cdling of
the room bears the date 1559, probably that year when Sir John Spencer came to re-
side on the spot. Besides the great chamber, there are several other long rooms full
of lieh carvings, especially one on the ground-floor, which retains all its original de-
coration : this was formerly the parlour of the old mansion. The whole of the carving
of thew old bmldiiigs is carefully protected by the noble owner, the present Marquis
80 CURIOSITIES OF LONDON.
of Korchampton : the tenants being strictly directed in thdr leases toupholdr maintain,
&c.y all the several antiqnities submitted to tiieir charge. {J. C. BichanUon, Architect.}
In 1861, there was sold amongst the old materials of No. 108, Cheapside, which
stood immediately opposite Bow Church, the " fine old oak panelling of a large dining-
room, with chimney piece and cornice to correspond, elaborately carved in frnit and
foliage, in excellent preservation, 750 feet superficial." This " oak-dad room," was
bought by Mr. Morris Charles Jones, of Gunrog, near Welshpool, in North Wales,
for 72/ lOf. 3d.f including commission and expenses of removal, being about It. Sd.
per foot superficial. It has been conveyed from Cheapside to Gunrog. This room was
the prindpal apartment of thie house of Sir Edward Waldo, and stated, in a pam-
phlet by Mr. Jones, *' to have been visited by six reigning sovereigns, from Charles II. to
George III., on the occasion of dvic festivities and for the purpose of witnessing the Lord
Mayor's Show." (See Mr. Jones's pamphlet, privately printed, 1864.) A contem-
porary (the Builder) doubts whether this room can be the work of Gibbons ; " if so, it
18 a rare treasure, cheaply gained. But except in St. Paul's, a crown and ecclesiastical
structure, be it remembered — not a corporate one — there is not a single certain example
of Gibbons's art to be seen in the City of London proper."
About the same year that Gibbons died, Nicholas Collet was bom. This clever
carver lived until 1804. He executed the carving of Queen Anne's state-carriage, and
it is probable that to him we are indebted for the best of the decorated doors in
Ormond-street, Queen-square. William Collins, the inseparable companion of Cbuns-
borough the painter, was an excellent modeller and carver.
Smith, in his London Antiquities, says — " Samuel Monette, a native of Paris, now
living in London, claims the highest encomiums I can possibly bestow : his art is prin-
dpally confined to flowers, and when I say that Grinling GKbbons was a mouse to him,
I shall not utter too much ; his carvings in wood are so light and playful, that they
may be blown away." This artist designed the pulpits of St. Paul's Cathedral, St.
Paul's, Covent>garden, St. Margaret's Westminster, &c Smith also speaks well of
the carving of Bums, famous for carving wheat-sheafs ; one of these wheat-sheafii still
remains in a shop in the West Strand, not far fh>m the Electric Td^;raph Station.*-
Builder, 1854.
Gog and Magog, the grants in Guildhall, which are masterly examples of carving, are
of wood and hollow : they are composed of pieces of fir, and are said to be the pro-
duction of a ship-carver. It is also reported that they were presented to the City by
the Stationers' Company, which, if true, might have given rise to the common report
of their being made of paper.
London once abounded in richly-carved doorways and over-doors of the l7th and 18th
centuries : there were good examples in Great Onnond-street ; in Shire-lane, Temple
Bar, where Gibbons once lived ; in Cavendish-square, especially at No. 83 ; the entrance
to Langboum Chambers, Fenchurch-street ; and some old mansions in Mark-lane;
there was formerly a very fine one over the door of the Ship Tavern, Water-lane.
State Coaches present fine carving. Such are the Lord Mayor's Coach, kept at the
Green Yard, Whitecross-street ; the Queen's Coach, at the Royal Mews, Pimlico ; and
the Speaker's Coach, Prince's-street, Westminster.
In private collections, some magnificent spedmens of early carving are preserved :
such were the Italian bedstead-pillars of the 16th century, and the bas-relief after
Rubens, in the Earl of Cadogan's collection ; and the collection, dating from the
15th to the 18th centuries, the property of G. Field, Esq., of Lister House, Clapham.
Carving reodved considerable check from the introduction of stucco in the reign of
George IL ; but the art has received a fresh impetus in the present century. Some
fine church carving was executed in 1839-42 for the Temple Church ; and in 1847-8
for the choir of Westminster Abbey, then refitted with canopied stalls, organ-case, screen,
&c., by Messrs. Ruddle, of Peterborough. The church of St. Mary-at-Hill, Billings-
gate, was redecorated in 1849-50, by W. Gibbs Rogers : the pulpit alone cost upwards
of 5002. ; the stairs have an elaborate string-course, and all the banisters are on the
rake ; the bosses and flowers of the sounding-board exceed a foot in projection : the
organ-gallery front has flowers festooned with musical instruments, and the pretty
oonceit of a crab crawling over a violin. Mr. Rogers has also carved, fix>m a design
CEMETERIES. 81
n^e^ed by the Queen, a boxwood cradle in rich Italian stylo, most delicately finished,
nd first used for the infant Prince Arthur, bom 1850 : it is cleverly engraved and
described in the Ari Journal for August 1850.
St. Michael's Church, Comhill, has also been redecorated by Mr. Rogers, with carvings
of dabonte detail, which will be described hereafter, from the carver's pamphlet.
The interior enrichments of the New Palace at Westminster present some fine
^)ecimens of contemporary carving. Much of the work has, however, been executed
by machinerr, and finiahed by hand. The new Hall of Lincoln's Inn has also some
fine new work.
Tbe great depository for old carvings is Wardour*street, Oxford-street, where the
dealen mostly keep shop : much discrimination is requisite in making purchases.
CEMJSTEItUES,
OR pioblic burial-gronnds, planted and laid out as gardens around the metropolis, are a
novelty of our times; although they were suggested just after the Great Fire of 1666,
when Evelyn regretted that advantage had not been taken of that calamity to rid the
City of its burial-places, and establish a necropolis without the walls. He deplores that
** the ebnrchyaids had not been banished to the north walls of the City, where a grated
inclosiire, of competent breadth, for a mile in length, might have served for an universal
cemetery to all the parishes, disiinguished by the like separations, and vriih. ample walks
of trees ; the walks adorned with monuments, inscriptions, and titles, apt for contempla-
tion and memcffy of the defunct, and that wise and excellent law of the Twelve Tables
restored and renewed."
The flereral Cemeteries in the suburbs are the property of Joint-Stock Companies.
From the oostlineas of interment in them, they at first but little abated the evil*
of intramural burial, as stated in the Report of the Board of Health in 1850. By the
Metropolitan Interment Act, passed in the above year, the evil has been abolished, and
Cemeteries provided for the several metropolitan parishes.
KsKSAi; Obeeit Cihetbby was the first established. It lies upon high ground,
left of tbe Harrow Road and the hamlet of Eensal Green, about two miles from Padding-
ton Oreen. It is divided into two grounds : the westernmost consecrated Nov. 2,
1832 ; the smaller ground being for the interment of persons whose friends desire a
funeral service differing from that of the Church of England. The same distinction
is observed in each of the Cemeteries ; and each is planted and laid out in walks, par-
terres, and borders of flowers, and other styles of landscape-gardening. A register ia
kept of interments for both portions of the grounds, and a duplicate is lodged with the
r^iatrars of parishes in the diocese. Each Company has its scale of charges for inter-
ment in catacomb, vanity or grave.
Within three years from the opening of the Eensal-Green Cemetery, there took
place in it about 1000 interments. Each ground has its chapel and colonnades ; in
tbe latter are placed mural tablets, and beneath are vaults or catacombs, llie memorials
in this Cemetery are very numerous : altar-tombs, " monumental urns," sarcophagi,
and the broken column; capadons tomb-houses, encompassed with fiower-beds or
overhung with funereal trees; pillars, bearing urns; weeping and praying figures,
medallioa portraits, and groups of insignia are most frequent; though emblems are
borrowed iJike from the Pagan temple and the Christian church. The cross, in ita
picturesque varieties^ and the plain but massive slab, are side by side. Among the
most ooDSpicoons la, at the entrance^ a monument to Madame Soyer, by a Belgian
sculptor ; the pedestd and a colossal figure of Faith are upwards of twenty feet in height.
The tombs of St. John Long, the " counter-irritation " surgeon ; of Morison, the
" bjgeist;" and of Duerow, the equestrian ; are also prominent : the latter left a sum
of maoey fbr flowers, shrubs, and repiurs. The memorial to Thomas Hood, tbe popular
Innuorist, with sculptures from his poems, is in better taste. Here is interred the
Duke oi Susses, aootwding to especial directions left by that prince : his grave, near the,
chspel, is covered by an immense granite tomb ; and near it rest the remains of the
Pnoeem Sophia, his nster, beneath a handsome sarcophagus tomb of Sicilian marble
82 CTJMI08ITIE8 OF LONDON.
erected in 1850, by subscription of Qaeen Victoria, the King of Hanover, Adolphns
Doke of Cambridge, and the Dachess of Gloucester. Beyond Keusal Green, is a large
Cemetery for Roman Catholics : here is interred Cardinal Wiseman.
The South METBOPOLiTAy and Nohwood Cemetebt ^vas consecrated Dec 6,
1837 : the chapels, by Tite, in the pointed style, are very beautiAil ; and the grounds
are hilly, and picturesquely planted.
HiGHOATE AND Eentish Towk Cemeteby, consecmted May 20, 1839, lies imme-
diately below Higligate Church. It has a Tudor gate-house and chapel, and cata-
combs of Egyptian architecture ; the ground is laid out in terraces, tastefully planted ;
and the distant view of the overgrown Metropolis, from among the tombs, is sug-
gestive to a meditative mind.
Abney Pabk Ceiceteby and Arboretcim, lying eastward, at Stoke-Newington, was
opened by the Lord Mayor, May 20, 1840. It was formed from the Park of Sir
Thomas Abney, the friend of Dr. Isaac Watts, to mark whose thirty-six years' resi-
dence here a statue of the Doctor, by Baily, E.A., was erected in 1846. The Abney
mansion was taken down in 1844 ; many of the fine old trees remain.
Westminbteb AiTD West OF LONDON Cemeteby, Barl's Court, Fulham-road, was
ooQsecrated June 15, 1840 ; it has a domed chapel, with semi-circular colonnades of
imposing design. In the grounds is a large altar-tomb, with athlete figures^ modelled
by BaUy, and erected by subscription, to Jackson the pugilist.
KUNHEAB Ceheteby, Peckham, was consecrated July 29, 1840.
The City of London and Toweb Hamlets Cemeteby, lies at the extremity of
Mile-End Road, north of Bow Common ; and Victobia Pabk Cemeteby, about eleven
acres, at Bethnal Green, north of the Eastern Counties Railway. There are also large
Cemeteries for Marylebone and Paddington ; Islington and St. Pftncras.
A few suburban churchyards are planted mmilarly to the Cemeteries ; as that of St.
John's Wood Chapel, where are buried Joanna Southcot; Richard Brothers "the
prophet ;" and John Jackson, R.A., the portrait-punter. The churchyard of St. Giles's-
in-the-Fields, Lower Pancras Road, consecrated so long ago as 1804, has many
flowery graves : hero is the handsome tomb of Sir John Soane, overhung with
cypresses. The burying-ground of St. Martin's-in-the-Ficlds, Pratt-street, Camden
To^vn, is also planted : here lies Charles Dibdin, the song-writer.
The burial-grounds for Jews are mostly laid out and planted in the cemetery
manner. Formerly thdr burial-place was outside the City Wall, at Leyrestowe^
" without Cripplegate."
CSANCHE Y^LAKE
" A CQUIRED its onunous name about the time of ]^chard I. There is extant
-^ a deed, by which Long^hamp, Bishop of Ely, devised certain messuages in the
Chancellor's-lane, heretofore the New-street." — {Archaolopical JowrwU, No. 12,
p. 875.) This is the greatest " legal thoroughfare" in London, and extends from
Fleet-street, opposite Inner Temple Gate^ to Holbom, nearly opposite Gray's Inn.
In Edward I.'s time it was so foul and miry as to be barred up, to prevent accidents.
Entering by Fleet-street, on the left were until lately some half-timbered houses, with
projecting windows, overhanging stories, and gabled i^nts. Izaak Walton kept a
draper's shop at the second house on the left, tadken down when that end of the lane
was widened; he subsequently removed, according to Sir Harris Nicolas's lAfe of
Walton^ five doors higher up in the lane. Opposite is Serjeants' Inn, rebmlt by Sir
Robert Smirke in 1838 ; but the old Hall remains. Higher up, on the west, is the
Law Institution, with a noble Grecian-Ionic portico, built of stone by Yulliamy, in
1842 ; it contains a library and club accommodation for the legal profession. In this
andent thoroughiaro have been built several edifices of ornamental character, including
the large premises for the Union Bank, at the cost of 30,000/.
The Bbhop of Chichester formerly had a palace in Chancery-lane, where are still
OHABING GB088. 83
Ctneherter Bents and Symonds Inn ; the latter, to this day, owned by the see. The
luge old hooae, with low-bmlt shops before i<^ and between Bream's Buildings and
Cm^tor-street, is said to have been the Bishop's palace. Nearly opposite is the red-
brick gatehouse of Lincoln's Inn; a Todor arch between two massive towers, boilt by
Sr Thomas Lovell, 1518, and bearing his arms.
The Survey of Aggas, in 1560, shows Chancery-lane with only a few houses at the
end, the intervening road flanked with gardens; and there is no reason to doubt
Aubrey's statement that young Ben Jonson worked with his father-in-law, a brick-
layer, in building the garden-wall of Lincoln's Inn, when, as Fuller says, " having a
trowel in his hand, he had a book in his pocket."
The stone buildings at the northern end of the lane are the Accountant-General's
and Inrdtment Offices. Opposite, upon the site of Southampton Buildings, was
Soathampton House, inherited by the iU-&ted William, Lord Russell, by his marriage
with the daughter of Thomas, last Earl of Southampton.
"It WM in pudng this hoDM, the soeDO of hb domestie happineis, on his way to the BcsfRoId hi
Liaeoln's-lnn-Kidds, that the fortitude of Che mar^ for a moment forsook him (W. Lord Bossell) ; but
orer-maftering his emotion, he said *The blttemeas of death is now past.' It is from this house that
some of Lidj Baehel Snaaoll's celebrated letters are dated. A former entrance to the chapel of South-
SBnptom House appears to correspond with the moulding of the flat timbered rool^ which is of the time
incurporated with the surrounding dwellings,
. Okl mouldings and panelling appear likewise in 47, Southampton Buildings, which house seems
to have beoi constructed upon a pwtion of the ancient mansion."— y. Wgkdum Jreher,
csARnra cboss.
fPHE large area at the meeting of the Strand, Whitehall, and Cockspur-street, with
-L IVafiilgar-square on the north, is named from the Village of Cherringe, near
Westnunster, and seems to have been the border or neutral ground between the City
and the Sng's western palace. Traction traces it to the stone cross erected there,
to Eleanor, the Chh^ Seine of Edward I. ; but this tradition is fanciful.
In the narrative of the quarrel between the merchants of London and Northampton,
in the Idber de AnHguie Legibue, the following passage occurs : — ** Quibus Uteris im-
petratii^ eoce ! rumores quod predicti p'sones fuerunt apud Ckerringe juxta Westmon-
astcrimn ubi Maior et Bfdlivi Norehamptone illoe adduxerunt." This was in 1260, and
Queen Eleanor (the Ch^ Seine in question) died in 1291. But, the association is of
older date, for in King Edward J., Neale's Works, edited by Byce, we read :—
" Ereet aiich and stately carved cross
Whereon her statue shall with glory shine.
And henceforth see you call it Chanug Cross ;
For why ? the cAariw^ and the choiorat queen.
That ever did delight my royal syss
There dwells hi darkness."
This was the last spot at which the Queen's body rested on its way to Westminster for
buriaL Mr. Hudson Turner, in Manners and Household Expenses of England in the \Zth
and 15iA Centuries, gives some curious particulars of the nine Eleanor Crosses, of which
two were those at Charing and Cheap. Charing Cross was built of Caen stone, and
Dorset marble stepsi, by Richard and Roger de Crundale; it was highly decorated,
and bad paintings and metal figures, gilt; besides Eleanor and others, sculptured in
Caen stone by Alexander of Abingdon, and modelled by Torel, a goldsmith, probably
an Italian. It has been much discussed whether this and the other Eleanor Crosses
were erected by Edward I. as memorials of his " conjugal afiection," or by him as one
of the exeentors of the Queen ; but, surely, " the very last thing that a husband who
desired to express his own affection for the deceased wife would do would be to appear,
not in his proper person, but as one of her legal representatives." — (Athen€sum,)
That the Crooes were raised by command of the King is founded on the authority of
Walsingbam and his predecessors, handed down by Saxidford and others to the present
day : see Jfr. AbeVs paper upon the Inquiry,
The Cross appears in the Sutherland View, 1548, vnth only a few houses near it, and
St. Martin's (^nrch literally " in the fields." A century later, puritanical bigotry
was at its fbll height; and April Z^ 1618, " by order of the Commissum or Committee
e2
84 CUBIOSrriES OF LONDON.
appointed by the House, tbe mgn of a tavern, l%e Chlden Cross, at Chari»ff Cross,
taken down as superstitious and idolatrous." Next followed the Cross itself, it being
pulled down in June, July, and August 1647, and knife-hafts made of some of the stone,
or marble. Then the wits had their ^be :
** Undone, undone, the lawyers are, —
They wander about the towne,
Nor can find the way to Weatniiiister,
Now Charing Ctobb is downe. •
At the end of we Strand ihey make a stand.
Swearing they are at a loea.
And chaffing say. That's not the way,
They most go by Charing Cross.
The DcmtfaVU of Charing Cron.
Next, regiddes were executed ** at the said place, where Charing Cross stood.'' In
1674, was placed here the noble equestrian statue of Charles I., by Le Soeur, which had
been cast in 1683, but long lay concealed. A memorandum in the State-Paper Office
points to the statue having been originally ordered of Le Soeur by Lord Treasurer
Weston, afterwards Earl of Portland, to be set up in his g^ardens at Roehampton. The
stone pedestal, long attributed to Gibbons, is proved by written evidence to be tbe
work of Joshua Marshall, master-mason to the Crown.
Where the Post-office at Charing Cross now stands, there was once a hermitage,
within which the patent rolls of the 47th Henry III. grant permisuon to William de
Radnor, Bishop of Llandaff, to lodge with all his retuners, whenever he came to Lon-
don. Opporate this stood the ancient Hospital of St. Mary Roncevalles, founded by
William Marechal, Earl of Pembroke. It was suppressed by Henry V. as an alien
priory, restored by Edward IV., and finally suppressed by Edward V I., who granted it
to Sir Thomas Carwarden, to be held in free soocage of the honour of Westminster.
Canalletto painted for his patron, Algernon Sidney, Baron Percy, created in 1749
Earl of Northumberland, a view of Northumberland-house and Charing Cross ; the
picture is now in that mansion ; it was painted about 1746 ,and shows the houses of the
street-lines, with their signs, among which is prominent the Golden Cross.
Charing Cross was a favourite pitch for Punch, or Punchinello, as he is termed in sun-
dry entries in the Overseers' books of St. Martin's- in-the-Fields, dated 1666, March 29,
which Mr. Cunningham states to be tbe earliest mention of Punch in England.
It was at the Rummer Tavern, Charing Cross, that Matthew Prior was brought np
by his uncle, the landlord, who had him educated at Westminister School. The Swan,
at Charing Cross, was a fiivonrite tavern of Ben Jonson. Piodamations were read
here : hence Swifts
** Where all that passes inter nos,
May be proclaimed at Charing-crois,"
-*a popular saying in our day. Edmund Curll, the notorious bookseller, stood here in
the pillory. Sir Harry Vane, the younger, had his residence next to Northumberland
House. Isaac Barrow, the divine, died in mean lodgings over the saddler's long shop
at Charing Cross, which lasted till our time. Rhodes, the bookseller, hung out his
ngn of the Ship in the same locality. Here, according to Pyne, William Hogarth
stood at a window of the old Golden Cross making sketches of the heralds and the
sergeant trumpeter's band, and the yeoman g^ard, who rendezvoused at Charing Croes,
purposing to make a picture of the ceremony of proclaiming the new King, George III.
On June 21, 1837, Queen Victoria was proclauned herein fitting state: the High
Constable and High Bailiff of Westminster, Enight-macshalmen, drmns and trumpets,
sergeants-at-arms, pursuivants, heralds, and other authorities, in official costume,
standing within a cordon of Life Guards, round the statue, and the Somerset Herald
reading aloud the proclamation.
" I talked," says Boswell, "of the cheerfulness of Fleet-street, owing to the quick
succession of people which we perceive passing through it." Johnson — " Why, Sir,
Fleet-street has a very animated appearance, but I think the full tide of human exis-
tence is at Chatting Cross." (BosweU, Croket^s ed., p. 483).
The changes at Charing Cross within the last forty years have been very strik-
ing. We well remember the paved area about St. Martin's Church, with the
sonounding labyrinth of oourts, and alleys, and lane^ which the gallants of Eliabeth
CEARTEBE0U8E. 85
or James's time, who had cnuaed in search of Spanish galleons, wittily named « the
Barmodas.*
*" Here Che Tdoroos CapUdn Bobadfl miut hsTe IiT«d in Banneeidal tplendonr, and hare tanght his
dnpei tlM tnie eondnot or the weapon. Jostioe Oyerdo mentiona the Bermndas with a riffhteooB indig«>
natioii. ' Look,' aaya that great legal ftinotloaarT, ' into any angle of the town, the Streignts or the Ber-
madu. whfere the qnarrelling leeaon it read, and how do th^ entertain the time but with bottled ale
and totiaeoo ? At a aubaeqaent period the craater of avenuea exchanged the title of Bermuda* for that
of the Criibet iMkuuh, the learned npeaeaBon eormpting the name into a happy alloaion to the arts
cnltiTated there. Gar, writing in ITR, deacribea the email etreeta branching from Charing Crosa as
reaoonding with the ahoeblaoke' cry, ' Gean yoor honoar'B eboea ?' Porridge ^and wae the cant name
for a paToa allCT near St Martin'e ChTDVch, which derived ita name from being ftill of oookehopa. A
writer in The World (1763) deaciibee a man Uke Bean Tibbe, who had hla dinner in a pewter-pUte
from a cookahop in Porridge laland. and with only lOOZL a year wae fooliah enough to wear a laoed anit,
go erety ercoing in a chair to a nrat, and retom to hie beuoom on fiMt, Bhivering and eapperleaa, Tain
"to gioi7 in haTing mbbed elbowe with the quality of Brentford."— Pieterei qftke Period,
In the improrements, oommenoed in 1829, was swept away the lower part of St.
Martin's-lane. Westward disappeared Duke's-ooart, where lived Roger Payne, the
celebrated hooklnnder, whose ehef-tPauvre, .^Ischylas, in Lord Spencer's library,
coat fifteen guineas Innding. Then, at the Mews'-gate, lived honest Tom Payne, the
hocdcseller, whose little shop in the shape of L was named the Literary Coffee-hooaeb
from its knot of literary fiiequenters.
CHABTEREO USE.
NCft fiff from Smithfleld, once the town-green of the City of London, the chivalrous
Sir Walter Manny, Lord of the town of Mamiy, in the diocese of Cambray, and
Kmght of the Garter in the reig^ of Edward III., founded in 1371 a monastery of
Caithnnan monks. The site (now Charterhouse-square) was in part a lonely field,
bearing the name of "No Man's Land." Balph Stratford bought it as a place of
barial for the victims of the pestilence of 1349, ** where was buried in one year,"
says Camden, "no less than rizty thousand of the bettor sort of people." Thirteen
acres of adjoining ground, bought at about the same time of St Bartholomew's
Spittle, and called the Spittle Cto% had also been enclosed and consecrated. The
monastery was devoted to the use of the Carthusian monks, whose name of Chartreuse
time has corrupted into Charterhouse. It was the third Carthusian monastery
instituted in this country, and its title and address was — " The House of the Saluta-
tion of the Mother of God, without the Bars of West Smithfleld, near London."
The last prior was executed at Tyburn, May 4^ 1535 — ^his head set on London
Bridge ; and one of his limbs over the gateway of his own convent — ^the same gateway,
it is said, which is still the entrance from Charterhouse-square. The priory, thus
sternly dissolved, was first set apart by King Henry YIII. as a place of deposit for
his " hales and tents " — »*.<;., " his nets and pavilions." It was afterwards given by
the King to Sir Thomas Audley, Lord Chancellor, by whom it was sold to Sir Thomas
North, Baron North of Kirtling. Lord North subsequently parted with it to John
Dudley, Duke of Northumberland, on whose execution and attainder in 1553 it
reverted to Lord North by a grant fVom the Crown. In 1565, by deeds, and in oon-
nderation of the sum of 2820/., Boger, second Lord North, sold it to Thomas Howard,
Duke of Norfolk, on whose execution and attainder in 1572 it again reverted to the
Crown. Queen Elizabeth subsequently gpranted it to the Duke's second son, Thomas,
afterwards Earl of Sufiblk, founder of Audley End, in Essex, and father of Frances,
Countess of Essex and Somerset, the infamous heroine of " the great Oyer of Poison-
ing," in the reign of James I.
On May 9, 1611, the property was sold by Lord Suffolk to Thomas Sutton, of Camps
Castle, in the county of Cambridge, for 13,000/. His wealth was great : he had dis-
covered rich veins of coal near Newcastle-on-Tyne, which he worked so profitably as to
be reputed worth the then vast sum of 50,000/. He added greatly to his fortune by mar-
riage ; and in privateering service he captured a Spanish vessel with a cargo valued at
20,000/. On June 22, follows his purduise of Charterhouse ; Sutton endowed it as a
cbarity by the name of " the Hospital of King James," *< for poor brethren and
schoUuu" Sutton died almost an octogenarian in the same year, Dec. 12th, before his
good work was complete, and was buried in the chapel of the Hospital, beneath a
86 OUEIOSnUES OF LONDON.
snmptiioiiB monnment* the work of Stone and Jansen. On opening the vault, in
1842j the body of the founder was diaooTered "kpt in lead," like an Egyptian
mummy-caie. Sutton has been charged with avarice in acquiring the money he
bequeathed, and has been pointed out as the original of Volpone, the Fox ; but this
GKfibrd disproves. In the chapel, Burrell, the preacher to the Hospital, paid the
first tribute of praise to the memory of Sutton in a sermon, printed in 1629, bat
now as rare as a manuscript. ^
The buildings and grounds of Charterhouse occupy about thirteen acres of land.
Entering by the gate over which one of the quarters oif the last prior of the monastery
was placed, on tibe right is part of the " fair dwelling " erected about 1537 ; the
Middle or Monitors' Court is of about the same date, though the Long Gallery is
reduced by half; the Washhouse Court is one of the few remaining portions of the
monastery. The Pk^eacher's Court contains the chapel, which, from a plan, date about
1500, seems to be identified with the monastery chapel. In some repairs in 1842 an
ancient ambrie was discovered towards the south comer of the east wall. The Chapel
contains several fine monuments, besides that of Sutton. The Ante-Chapel, which,
like the Evidence Boom above it> has a groined roof, bears the date 1512. The Great
Chamber, or Old Governors' Room, was either built or decorated by Thomas, fourth
Duke of Norfolk, between 1565 and 1571 : it was restored in 1838, and is now the
most perfect EUzabethan apartment in London. It has a chimney 'piece of wood, a
centre and two wings, in two stories, Tuscan and Ionic, reaching to the ceiling, deco-
rated with escutcheons of the House of Norfolk. In this room Queen Elizabeth and
James I. kept their court on their visits here. And here, on Founder's Day, is delivered
the Annual Oration : the walls are richly painted, and hung with six pieces of tapestry.
The Ghreat Hall has a screen, music-gallery, sculptured chimney-piece, and lantern in
the roof: here hangs a noble portrait of Sutton, and here is celebrated " the Founder's
Day," Dec. 12, when the Carthusians dine tc^ther by subscription. At the Poor
Brothers' celebration was formerly sung the old Carthudan melody, with this chorus :-—
* Then blessed be the memory
Of good old Tkcmuu Sutton,
Who rave as lodging^Iearninfr,
And ne gave os beef and mutton."
In the Upper Hall the foundation scholars dine daily ; and, in another Hall, the
Master, the Preacher, and other officers.
This "triple good," as Bacon calls it— this "masterpiece of Protestant English
charity," as it is called by Fuller, — was also " the greatest gift in England, either in Pro-
testant or Catholic times, ever bestowed by any individuaL" It is under the direction
of the Queen, fifteen Governors selected from the great officers of state ; and the
Master of the Hospital, whose income is 800Z. a year, besides a capital residence
within the walls. The value of the estates bequeathed by Sutton has increased
tenfold ; yet the gross rental, which was, in the year 1691, 5391Z., is stated to average
less than 21,0002. Upon the foundation are maintained eighty pensioners, or poor
brothers^ whom the Governors nominate in rotation ; they live together in collegiate
style, provided with apartments, and all necessaries, except apparel, in lieu of which
they are allowed 142. a year and a gown each. Next are the scholars, in two divi-
sions— the foundation, or g^wn boys, and the boarders received by the masters ; the
former are fed and clothed at the expense qt the Hospital ; the hitter by their friends.
The foundation scholars also enjoy the right of election to exhibitions of from 80/.
to 1002. a year, at either university, besides the preference over the scholars of presen-
tation to valuable church preferments in the gifb of the Governors. The sum of 40^
was formerly paid with every boy, either to advance him in college, or as an apprentice-
fee in trade ; but no youth has been apprenticed from the school mnce John Philip
Eemble was bound to his uncle, the comedian, to learn the histrionic art. The total
number of scholars does not exceed 200; formerly the number was 480, when
boarding-houses were allowed in the neighbourhood ; now the scholars are only allowed
to reside within the walls.
The present school-house is a modem brick building (1803), on a mound in the
playground ; the large central door is surrounded by stones bearing the names of former
CEABTEBE0U8E. 87
Head Masters, and the names of the boys as they leave the school. The internal
ec /oomj of the establishment is vested in the Master ; the manciple, or house-steward,
provides the diet of the Hospital, for which he has " to pay i» ready money"
Charteriioase is more healthily placed than any other public school in the metro-
polis. John Wesley imputed his after health and long life to his strict obedience to
bis father's injunction — that he should run round the Charterhouse playing-green
three times every morning. There are two play-greens — for the " Uppers" and
" Unders ;" and by the wall of the ancient monastery is a gravel-walk upon the nte of
a range of cloisters. The Master has his flower-garden, with its fountain ; there are
courts for tennis, a favourite game with Carthusians ; a wilderness of fine trees, inter-
sected by grass and gravel walks ; the cloisters, where football and hockey ore pbyed ;
the old school, its ceiling charged with armorial sliields; the great kitchen, probably
the boDqueting-hall of the old priory ; the chapel ; and lastly, the burial-ground for the
poor brethren. There are besides solitary courts, remains of cloisters and cells, and old
doorways and window-cases, which assert the antiquity of the place ; and the Governors
have wisely extended the great object of the founder by the grant of a piece of
ground, where a church and schools for the poorer classes have been built.
There are three schoolrooms : one very large, and two smaller, for French and
study. The system of education includes Greek and Latin and mathematics;
modem history, geography, natural sdence ; the French and German languages ; and
ringing, fencing, and drilling classes. The foundation scholarships are competed for
annually. There are other prizes, including the Havelock Exhibition, founded in I860,
in hononr of General Sir Henry Havelock, who was a Carthusian.
Oliver Cromwell was elected Governor in 1652, and was succeeded by his son
Kichard, in 1658. The most eminent Master of the house was Dr. Thomas Burnet,
author of Tke Sacred Theory of the Earth; and the most eminent Schoolmaster, the
Bev. Andrew Tooke, author of the PantJieon,
Upon the register of pupils are many illustrious names, inducUng Crawshay, the
poet ; Isaac Barrow, the divine and mathematidan ; Sir William Blackstone, author of
the Commeniariei i Joseph Addison, and Richard Steele, both here together; John
Wesley, the founder of the Wesleyons; Lord Chief- Justice Ellenborough (buried in the
Chapel); the Prime Minister, Lord Liverpool; Bishop Monk; Baron Alderson; and
General Sir H. Havelock— " Old Fhlos," he was called in the school : he is described
to have been then a gentle and thoughtful lad, who used to stand looking on while
others played^ and whose general meditative manner procured for him the name of
"Philoeophcr," and oocaaonally "Old Philos;" W. M. Thackeray, the novelist; and
John Leech, the celebrated artist; Sir C. L. Easthdce, President of the Royal
Academy; the two eminent historians of Greece, Bishop Thirlwall and Mr. George
Grote, were both scholars together in the same form, under Dr. Raine.
Among the Poor Brethren were Elkanah Settle, the rival and antagonist of Dryden;
John Bagford, the antiquary, originally a shoemaker in Turnstile ; Isaac de Groot, nephew
of Hugo Grotius ; and Alexander Macbean, who assisted Dr. Johnson in his Dictionary.
In the Master's Lodge are several excellent portraits : the Founder, engraved by
Vertue; Isaac Walton's good old Bishop Morley; Charles II.; Villiers, Duke of
Buckingham ; the Duke of Monmouth ; Lord Chancellor Shaftesbury ; William, Earl
of Craven; Archbishop Sheldon; Lord Chancellor Somers; and one of Kneller's finest
works, the portrait of Dr. Thomas Burnet.
« Dr. Burnet, eleetad Master in 1666. died hers hi 1716, and was buried In the chapel of the hutitation.
Soon after Bonief ■ election, James II. addressed a letter to the Oovemon, ordering them to admit one
> Kfaiir dispensing with any statate or order of tbe Hospital to tne ooncranr. isarnei, ■« juwor
. was called upon to vote first, when he nudntained that by express Act of Parlianient. 8 Car. 1.,
coold be admitted into that Uoepital without taking the oaths of allegiance and supremacy.
trine,'
(jorernor,
no officer tvi— ^ ■ ._- — — _~w-r z-'- °. ^ ihe Duke^of Ormond supported
the threats of the Khig
Charterhouse."
The history of this noble foundation has been written by B«?arcrofb, Heanie, and
Smythe; and in 1847 appeared Chronicles of Charterhouse, by a Carthurian, a
derer work, with illustrations. ChorterhouBO is also well described in Staunton's
88 0UBI08ITIE8 OF LONDON,
Cheat Schools of England, 1865, where are thiu sketched the satonudla of the ** fiigi^"
now abolished : — I
" Id former times there wu a carious custom of the School termed 'pollinff-iii,' hj which the lower I
boys manifested their opinion of the seniors in a rough bat very intelugibieinBhioD. One daj in the i
year the fags, like the slaves in Rome, had freedom, and held a kind of saturnalia. On this priTileged !
occasion they used to seize the upper hoys one by one and drsg them from the playgrouna into the i
Schoolroom, and accordingly as the Tictim was popular or the reverse he was either cheered and mildly I
treated, or was hooted, groaned at, and sometimes soundly cufied. The day selected was Good Friday ; i
and, although the jpractice was nominally forbidden, the officials for many years took no mesaurea to '
prevent it. One ill-omened day, however, when the sport was at the best, 'the Doctor' was espied |
approaching the scene of battle. A general m mmot qmjmU ensued ; and hi the hurry of flight a meek
and quiet lad (the Hon. Mr. Howard;, who happened to be seated on some steps, was crushra so dread- j
fiilly that, to the grief of the whole school, he shortly after died. * Pulling-ln ^ was thenceforth sternly
Interdicted." i
In the head monitor'B room is preserved the iron bedstead on which died W. M.
Thackeray ; and in the chapel are memorial tablets to Thackeray and Leech, erected
by fellow Carthusians.
CSJBAFSIDE,
THE street extending from the Poultry and Bucklersbnry to St. Paul's and New-
g^te-street, was, some three centuries ago, worthily called " the Beauty of London ;"
and was famed for its " noted store " of goldsmiths, linendrapers, haberdashers, &c.
It is named from the Saxon word Chepe, or market : the name, therefore, is the
Market'Side.
"In 1268, the pillory that stood in Chepe wss broken through the negligence of the Bailiffb, and for
a long time unrepaired ; wherefore, in the meantime no punishment was inflioted upon the bakers,
who made their loaves just as they desired, so much so that each of their loaves was aefldent in one-
third of the weight that it ought to weigh; and this lasted for a whole year and more.'''^Cftri9a»ete <fftike
Mcqfon and Sheriff, p. 127.
In 1S31 the south side only was built upon, and the north side was an open field,
where jousts, tournaments, or ridings, were ot'ten held. By this road passed many a
royal pageant ; as when, in the reign of Edward I., Queen Margaret came from the
Tower, "there were two bretossches (wooden towers) in the road of Chepe, from
which there were eight outlets discharging 'wine from above ; the road was covered
with cloths-of-gold against her first coming." The Chepe was also the scene of many
tragical deaths; as when, in the reign of Edward II., Stapleton, Bishop of Exeter,
who had been proclained a traitor, was met near Saint Paul's Church, dragged from
his horse and carried into Chepe, and there he was despoiled, and his head cut off;
and one of his esquires, and bis warden, were beheaded the same day in Chepe.
Stow describes one of the joustings held in the reign of Edward III., Sept. 21,
1331 ; when, "the stone pavement being covered with sand, that the horses might not
slide when they strongly set their feet to the ground, the King held a tournament
three days together, with the nobility, valiant men of the realm, and other strange
knights. And to the end the beholders might with the better ease see the same, there
was a wooden scaffold erected across the street, like unto a tower, wherein the Queen
Philippa, and many other ladies, richly attired, and assembled from all parts of the
realm, did stand to behold the jousts." This frame brake down ; after which the
King had a stone shed built "for himself, the queen, and other estates, to stand on,
and there to behold the jonstings and other shows, at their pleasure, by the Church of
St. Mary Bow." This shed, or " seldam," was similarly used in after reigns, especially
to behold the Great Watches on the eve of St. John Baptist and St. Peter at Mid-
summer. In 1510, on St. John's Eve, King Henry VIII. came to this place, then
called the King's Head in Chepe, in the livery of a yeoman of the g^ard, with an
halbert on his shoulder, and there beholding the watch, departed privily when the
watch was done; " but on St. Peter's night next following, he and the Queen came
royally riding to the said place, and there with their nobles beheld the Watch of the City,
and returned in the morning." When Bow Church was rebuilt. Wren provided, in place
of the shed or sild, a balcony in the tower, immediately over the principal entrance
in Cheapnde ; and though the age of tournaments had passed away, the Lord Mayor's
pageants were long viewed from this balcony.
Opposite Bow Church was taken down, in 1861, No. 108, the house built by Sir
CHELSEA. 89
Edward Waldo» after the Great Fire, and subseqaently leased to David Barclay,
linendiuper ; which hoose was Tisited by rix reigning sovereigns, from Charles II. to
George III., on civic festivities, and for witnessing the Lord Mayor's Show; in
this honae Sir Edward Waldo was knighted by Charles II. ; and the Lord Mayor, in
1714, was created a baronet by George I. When the house was taken down in 1861,
the fine old oak-panelled dining-room, with its elaborate carvings, was purchased
entire, and removed to Gnnrog, near Welshpool, Montgomeryshire, whose proprietor,
Mr. M. C. Jones, has written a description (privately printed) of the panelling, the
roval visits, the Barclay family, Ac (See Cabyinos, p. 80.)
Cheapside Cross, which stood facing Wood-street, was the most magnificent (except
that of Charing) of the crosses boilt by Edward I. to his Qneen Eleanor, and was (Mr.
Hudson Tomer states) the work of Alexander of Abingdon. It was '* re-edified" by
John Hatherly, Mayor, by license procured in 1441 of Henry VI. ; it was regilt in
1522, for the viat of the Emperor Charles V. ; and in 1633 for the coronation of
Henry YIII. and Anne Boleyn ; newly bomished at the coronation of Edward VL;
ind again newly gilt, 1554^ against the arrival of King Philip. After this the Cross
was presented by juries as standing " in the highway to the let of carriages ;'* but
they oonld not get it removed ; and it was by turns defaced and repaired, and its
images stolen and replaced, until May 2, 1643, when it was demolished to the ** uoyse
of trumpets*" the workmen being protected by soldiery.
Xearly opposite Honey-lane was the Standard, the place of execntion ; and between
Bucklersbury and the Poultry stood Westcheap, or the Great Condmt, which brought
the first supply of sweet water to London, from Paddington; facing Foster-lane
stood the Little Conduit. Westward of the ate of the Great Conduit, on the north
side, is Mercers' Hall and chapel, rebuilt after the Great Fire of 1666 ; the original
chapel bong an luMpital purchased at the Dissolution by means of Sir Richard Gresham.
Westward, next Na 142, is Saddlers' Hall; the old street front has been taken down,
and replaced by an elegant stone facade.
The handsome stone-fronted house. No. 73, built by Sir C. Wren, was, before the
erection of the Mansion House (1737), sometimes tenanted by the Lord Mayor, during
his year of office : here Mr. Tegg, the publisher, amassed a large fortune ; he restored
the house finont, which has rince been considerably altered. Nearly oppoate, between
Ironmonger-lane and King-street, is the Atlas Insurance Office, with three enriched
fronts, granite basement, and stone saperstructure : built in 1839.
The house-firont. No. 39, has the sig^-stone of the noted Nng's Head tavern, which
stood at the east end of Friday -street.
CHELSEA,
A LARGE and populous parish upon the north bank of the Thames: it was a
village of three hundred houses in the lust century, but now extends from beyond
Batteraea or Chelsea Bridge almost to Hyde Park Corner. It lies about fifteen feet
above the river ; and, according to Norden, is named from its strand, " like the chesel
(oeosel or cesel) which the sea casteth up of sand and pebble-stones, thereof called
CheseUetfy briefiy Cheltey, as is Chelsey (Selsey) in Sussex." In a Saxon charter, how-
ever, it is written Cealchjflle ; in Domesday, Cerechede and Chalced ; and Sir Thomas
More wrote it ChelchUh, though it began to be written Chelsey in the nxteenth
eentury. The Rev. J. Blunt derives the name from Cealc, chalk, and Myd, or Mythey
a harbour, adding that this Hythe was used for landing chalk, and so had given a
name to the place. It was at Chelsea that two important councils were held under
0&, King of Mercia. Among the possessors of the manor were Sir Reginald Bray
(temp, Heniy YII.) ; it was given by Henry YIII. to Katherine Parr as a portion of
her marriage settlement ; here she lived with her second hasband, Thomas Seymoar,
the Lord Admiral, aftem^ards beheaded ; and here, in the same house with them, lived
Queen Elizabeth, when a girl of thirteen. The manor mm bought of Lord Cheyne by
Sir Hans Sloane in 1712, from whom it passed by marriage and bequest to Baron
Cadogmn of Oakley, in whose fiimily the property remains : hence the names of Cheyne
Walk, Cadogan and Hans Places, and Sloane and Oakley Streets.
90 CUBIOSITIES OF LONDON.
At Cheliea lived Sir Thomas More, in a maniioa at the north end of Beanfort-row, with gardens
extending to the Thames. Here More was visited hy Henrr VI II., who, *' after dinner, in a Ihir garden
of his, walked with him by the space of an hour, holding his arm about his neck ;" and used to asoend
with him to the hoaae-top to observe the stars and disoonrse of astronomy. A more iUostrioos visitor
was Erasmos, who describes the house as " a practical school of the Christum religion." Holbein worked
here for near three years, upon portraits of the Chaneellor, his relations, and friends. More also hired
a house for aged people in Chelsea, whom he daily relieved. His own establishment was large : Erasmos
says, *' there he converseth with his wife, his son, his daughters-in-law, his three granddanghten with
their husbands, with eleven great-grandchildren." More resigned the Great Seal in 1633, and retired
to Chelsea for study and devotion ; but dismissed liis retinue, and gave his barge to his suooessor in the
Chancellorship. More's mansion was purchased by Sir Hans Sloane, and taken down in 1740.
Sloane dwelt in the New Manor-Hotue, nearly opposite the site of the present Pier.
The grounds of More's house were extensive, and the porter's lodge became the Clock-
house and Herb-distillery, in the Eing's-road.
After the death of Katherine Parr the Dnke of Somerset obtkined a grant of the manor and palace of
Marlborough, which had formed part of the Queen's dower. On the attainder and death of Somerset,
it was granted by the young King f Edwwd vl.) to the heir of Northumberland, and aftorhis attainder
and death, to John Caryll, who sold it to James Basset ; yet, in the Herald's order ibr tiie flmeral of
Anne of Cleves, who died at Chelsea, July, 1667, the manor is described as Crown pronertr. Elizabeth,
In the second year of her reign, granted it to the widowed Duchess of Somerset, who lived there. The
Lordi Cheyne then became Loros of the Manor, whence the ground on which stood the Queen's palace
and the palace of the Bishop of Winchester, trcxa Morley in 1633 to North in 1820. Fnrtlier west,
near the river side, was the Chelsea China Mannfactorv.
Lady Llanover, in her piquant notes to the Autobiogrofhy, ire. qf Jfrt. IMamg, thus notices
Blackland* in the Marlborougn-road, Chelsea, formerly called Blacluands-lane. ** Bowack, in his AnH'
quUUi qf MiddU$ex (1700), says :— William Lord Cheyne, Viscount Newhaven in Scotland, has two
good seats in Chelsea. The first is the mansion-house, where Queen Elisabeth was nursed, east end
of the town, near the Thames. The other some distance north of the town, called Blaeklands
House, both (1706) let to French boarding-schools." It a^oins the old manor-house at Chelsea,
which forms part of the premises of Messrs. Scott and Cuthbertson (paper manofaeturers), called
Whitelands. Blacklands has still a good garden and old iron gates ; and the centre of the noose is
evidently part of the original stmctuxe.
The beautiful Duchess of Mazarin (niece of the Cardinal) died in difficulties, in 1699,
in a small house which she rented of Lord Cheyne. Lysons had heard that it was
usual for the nobility and others who dined at her house to leave money under their
plates to pay for their entertainment ; she appears to have been in arrears for the
parish-rates, during the whole time of her residence at CheUea.
Here too was Lindsey House, the residence of the Bertics, Earls of Lindsey, now
the site of Lindsey-row ; Danvers House, where lived Sir John Danvers, the site is now
Danvers-street. Here were al^o Essex House, and Shrewshury or Alstone House; Lau-
rence-street is named fix>m Sir John Laurence (temp, Charles I.) and his descendants.
In Cheyne-walk was the Museum and Coffee-house of Don Saltero, renowned in the
swimming exploits of Dr. Franklin. The landlord, James Salter, was a noted barher,
who made a collection of natural curiosities which acquired him the name (probably
first given him by Steele) of Don Saltero. (See Tatler, Nos. 3^ 195, and 226.) The
tavern was taken down in 1866, but the Museum was dispersed about 1807. In a
large meanly-furnished house in Cheyne-walk, died Aug^ 30, 1852, John Camden
Neild, who bequeathed 500,OOOZ. to Queen Victoria. The old Chelsea Bun-house pos-
sessed a sort of rival Museum to Don Saltero's. It was taken down in 1839. Eastward
is the Royal Hospital ; and on part of its garden was the gay Banelagb, from 1740
to 1815. Here, too, are the Apothecaries* Company's Gardens ; one of the fine old
cedar trees was blown down in 1854. Nearly opposite was the Red House at Battersca,
fifty yards west of which Csnaar is believed by some antiquaries to have forded the Thames.
Chelsea has two churches dedicated to St. Luke. The old river-ade church was
built in the sixteenth and seventeenth centuries, and has an eastern chapel added by
Sir Thomas More. In the chancel is a black marble tablet to More, placed there by
hiipself in 1532, three years before his death : it was restored by Sir John Lawrence
about 1644v and by subscription in 1833 : the inscription, in Latin, is by More. Hero
are also memorials of Jane, wife of the ambitious John Dudley, Duke of North-
umberland ; and of Lady Jane Cheyne, by Bemini. In the churchyard is the tomb of
Sir Hans Sloane, egg-shaped and entwined with serpents ; also monuments to Philip
Miller, the writer on gardiening; and Cipriani the painter.
St. Luke's new church, between King^s-road and Fulham-road, was built by Savage,
in 1820, in the style of the fourteenth and fifteenth centuries, and has a pinnacled
tower 142 feet high.
CHELSEA BUN8. 91
Above Battcrsea Bridge was Cremome House, formerly the elegant villa of Lord
Cremome, who had here a fine collection of Italian and Flemish pictures ; adjoining was
the residence of Dr. Benjamm Hoadly (son of the bishop), the author of The Suspicious
Mutband, Cremome has been converted into a place of public entertainment, for
which the groands are well adapted.
Chelsea was once a place of courtly resort : many of the nobility, as well as scholars
and philosophers, resided here ; and its noted taverns and public gardens were much
freq[iiented in the 17th and 18th centuries. The prindpal features now are its palace-
Hospital for soldiers, its Botanic Gardens, its Dutch-like river terrace (Cheyne-walk),
mostly brick-built, and fronted by lofty trees ; and its olden church, with a brick tower.
In a liTer-aide cottage, b^ond the church, upon the road to Cremome Gardens, J. H. W. Tomer,
the great towJicape-palnter, ended hii days, havinar that np hii houie in Qaeen Anne-street. His
t»idT>w for Tbamet Menery was srcat: he fdl iIck at Chelsea, at the close of 1861, but was daily
vbeded in a chair to the window of his room, that he might look on the calm December sonshine, the
ri^er, and its craft. Fnnn a sort of sallery npon the house-top the great painter emoyed the river
traflk; and watched those beantifiu atmospheric change which Turner could so ably transfer to
caovaa. Here, in these cheap Chelsea lodgings, Tomer, imder the assumed name of " Admiral Booth,"
went to his rest, on the 19th of December, 1851.
Id the hamlet of Little Chelsea lived Bulstrode Whitelock ; Mr. Pym, member of
the LoDg Parliament ; Bishop Fowler, Sir Richard Steele, Addison, and John Locke ;
Lord Shaftesbury, author of the Characteristics, in the house now St. George's
additional workhouse ; and here Tobias Smollett retired ofter his failure in practice at
Bath. Dean Swift had lodgings '* a little beyond the church ;" and Sir Bobert Wal-
pole had a house adjoining Gough House ; hence, Walpole-stroet.
The Fire Fields, Chelsea, are commemorated by Steele in the Toiler ; and at the
Willow Walk, Jerry Abershaw (that other Johnny Armstrong) had his secluded
house, in the midst of " cuts," or reservoirs of w^ter. In the King^s-road, on the
spot where is now the West London Literary and Scientific Institution, the Earl
of Peterborough was stopped by highwaymen, in what was then a narrow lane ; and
the robbers, being watched by the soldiers on guard at the gate of the Chelsea College,
were fired at from behind the hedge. One of the highwaj^men was a student in the
Temple, named Brown, whom Mr. Vernon, the Secretary of State, in a letter to the
Dnke of Shrewsbury, says, " a friend of his (Sir John Talbot) knew well ; and
his father, losing his .estate^ Mr. Brown lived by play, sharping, and a little on the
highway."
Nomerous signs at Chelsea have military associations: as "The Snow Shoes,"
a recollection of Wolfe's glorious campaign; "The General Elliot;" and "The Duke
of York ;" and " Nell Gy wnne " from association with Chelsea Hospital.
Chelsea Water-works were originally constructed in 1724; a print of the Works was
pahliabed by Boydell, in the year 1756.
CHELSEA BUNS,
CHELSEA has been iamed for its Buns unce the commencement of the last century.
Swift, in his Journal to Stella, 1712, writes :— " Pray are not the fine buns sold
here in oor town, as the rare Chelsea buns ? I bought one to-day in my walk," &c.
They were made and sold at '* the Old Original Chelsea Bun-house," in Jews'-row, a
one-storied building, vrith a colonnade projecting over the foot-pavement. It was
eostomaiy for the Boyal Family and the nobility and gentry to visit the Bun-house in
the morning. George II., Queen Caroline, and the Princesses frequently honoured the
proprietor, Richard Hand, with their company; as did also George III. and Queen
Charlotte; her Majesty presented Mrs. Hand with a silver half-gallon mug, and five
guineaa in it. On Good Friday morning upwards of 50,000 persons were assembled
here^ when disturbances often arose among the London mob; in one day more
than 250/. have been taken for buns. The Bun-house was also much frequented by
Tisiton to Ranelagh, after the closing of which the bun-trade declined. Notwith-
■tanding, on Good Friday, April 18, 1839, upwards of 240,000 buns were sold here.
SooD after, the Bun-house was sold and pulled down ; and at the same time was dis-
perMd a collection of pictures, models, grotesque figures, and modem antiques, which
bad for a eentniy added the attractions of a museum to the bun celebrity. Another
92 0UBI0SITIE8 OF LONDON.
bun-house was built ; but the olden chaim of the place had fled. In the Mirror
for April 6, 1839, are two views of the old Bun- house, sketched just before its
demolition. Here is a glance at the sale of the curionties :
There were two leaden figures of Grenadiers, about three feet high. In the dress of 1746, presenting
arms, which sold for U. 10«. An equestrian plaster figure of William Duke of Comberlsnd, with other
plaster casts, 21. 2$. A whole lengtli painting of " Aurengzebe, Emperor of Persia," 41. 4t. A larg«
old painting, an interior, with the King and Queen seated, and perhaps the baker, ftc^ 21. 10*. A
model of the Bun-house, with painted masquerade figures on two drclea, turned round by a bird
whilst on its perch in a cage at the back of the model, 10«. A large model in cut paper, called St.
Mary Ratdiff Church, sold with its glazed case for 24. 2a. A Aramed picture, worked by a string, ra-
called the exploits of the Bottle Coi^nror. After the death of Mrs. Hand the business was carried
on by her eon, an eceentrie character, who dealt also largely in butter, which he carried round to
his customers in a basket on his head. Upon his death nis elder brother came into posseasion ;
he had been an oflScer in the Staflbrd Militia, was one of the Poor Knights of Windsor, ana not mocn
less eccentric than his brother. It is not known that he left any relations, and his proper^, it is said,
reverted to the Crown.
There is a folio-print, mgraved in the reign of George II.; under it, ''A perspeetiTe view of David
Loudon's (probably the owner before Hand) Bunn Uonse at Ghelsey, who nas the honour to serve
the Royal Family. 52 by 21 ft." Over the print, in the centre, is the Boyal Arms. On each side
stands a grenadier, three figures of Freemasons, with Masonic emblems ; and on the left hand is a coat
of arms. These arms are reversed, as if copied on the copper immediatelv from a piece of silver plate.
Below them is a motto (not reversed), ** Fbr Ood^ my King, and CounUy.' It is not impossible that
these were the arms of some respectable IJunily, whose servant David Loudon had been.
Chelsea Bun*house has given name to one of Miss Manning's clever novels, pub-
lished in 1854.
CHELSEA HOSPITAL
OCCUPIES the site of "Chelsea College," commenced by Dr. SutclifTe, Dean of
Exeter, in the reign of James I., but only in part built. Its object was to main-
tain fellows in holy orders, " to answer all the adversaries of religion," and others to
write the history of their own times. It was nicknamed " Controversy College " by
Archbishop Laud ; the whole scheme and its originator were merdlessly ridiculed by
the wits of the day, and thus failed, It was given by C^harles II. to the then newly-
establialied Royal Sodety, who, in 1681 '82, sold the property to Sir Stephen Fox for
1300^, as a site for a Royal Hospital for aged and disabled soldiers, the building of
which has been attributed to the influence of Nell Gwynne, which tradition is kept
in countenance by the head of Nell Gwynne having been for very many years the
ngn of a public-house in Grosvenor-row, Pimlioo. But more than one entry in
Evelyn's Diary proves, that Sir Stephen Fox " had not only the whole managing " of the
plan, but was himself ** a grand benefactor ** to it. He was mainly advised by Evelyn,
who arranged the offices, "would necdes have a library, and mentioned several
bookes." Here are a few other evidences :
The idea, it is said, originated vrith Nelly, and I see no reason to doubt the tradition, supported, as
It Ls, by the known benevolence of her character, her sympathy with the suffering, and the fact that
sixty years ago at least Nelly's share in its foundation was recorded beneaUi her portrait serving as
the sign of a public-house adjoining the Hospital. (Lgaont.) The sign remains, but not the inscrip-
tion; yet the tradition is still rife in Chelsea, and is not soon lilcely to die out. Ormonds, and Oranbys,
and Admiral Vemons disappear, but Nelly remains, and long may she swing with her favourite lamb
in the row or street commemorated forever in the Chelsea Pensioners of Wilkie— (Peter Cunningham's
8tcry qfNell Gfcynne, 1852, p. 146.) Nell's residence at Sandy End is doubted; but it is certain that
her mother lived near the Neate House, in Pimlieo. In the records of Knizhtsbridre Chapel,
Jan. 13, 1667, is the marriage of Robert Hand and Mary Gwin, thus connecting Nelly's fiunily with the
Chelsea Bun-house.
Sir Christopher Wren was appointed architect of the Hospital ; and the foundation
stone was laid, Feb. 16, 1682, by Charles II., who promised to provide the funds, and
was nssbted by public subscription. The progress of the building is recorded in this
inscription on the southern front : —
" In subsidium et levamen emeritorum venio, belloque fractorum, condidit Carolus Secnndos, auxil.
Jacobus Secundus, perfecere Gnlielmus et Maria, Hex et Begina, mdczc."
The building, which cost 150,000/., is of red brick, with stone quoins, cornices, pedi-
ments, and columns, and is remarkable for its harmonious proportions. It consists of
three courts, two of which are spacious quadrangles ; the third, the central one, is
open on the south side, next the Thames ; and in the area is a statue of Charles II.,
in Roman imperial armour, sculptured by Gibbons, for Tobias Budtat. In the eastern
and western wings of this court are the wards of the Pensioners. At the extremity of
CHELSEA HOSPITAL. 93
tbe eMtem wing is the Governor's house, with a state apartment ; and portraits of
Charles I^ bis queen, and two sons — Charles, Prince of Wales, and James, Duke of
York; Charles II., William III., and Qeorgelll. and Queen Charlotte. The north
front is of great extent, and faced by avenues of limes and horse-chestnuts. In the
centre is a tetrastyle Boman-Doric portico, surmounted by a handsome lofty clock-
tnrret in the roof.
Beneath are the principal entrances. To the right is the chapel, the furniture and
plate of which were given by James II., and tbe organ by Migor Ingram ; the altar-
pieoe has a painting of the Asoennon, by Sebastian Bicd. In the left wing is the Hall,
wherein the Pennoners dine : here is an equestrian portrait of Charles II., by Verrio
and H. Cooke ; and an allegorical picture of the victories of the Duke of Wellington,
by James Ward, BA« Both the Hall and Chapel are paved with black and white
marble : in each are suspended colours captured by the British army ; in the chapel
are thirteen eagles taken from Napoleon I. : and in tlie Hall fragments of the standards
captured at Blenheim ; in addition are dragon Chinese bannera^ and the trophies of
the Sikh campaign of 1840.
In the Hall the remains of the great Dake of Wellington lay in state, Nov. 11-17, 1662. The Vesti-
hole, H^, and C!hapel were hong with black drapery. On a dais in ihe Hall, upon a doth-of-gold
carpet, and black velvet bier, was placed the coflin, crimson and gold ; above the bier were sus-
pended stars and orders, ** in numbers and importance ikr snrpassinff anything of tbe kind ever
pqeacwed bv a single inaividnaL" The whole bier was surrounded with a silver balustrade adorned
with heraldic devices, and the Marshal's eig^t b&t<ni8, and the Duke's standard and guidon ; and
attached to all, gold lion supporters, two feet high, bearing ^elds and banners. At the back of
the bier was her Mi^esty's escutcheon, surrounded bv the Wellington bannerols, ux>on a cloth-of-
fKiid hsBging, surmounted by a magnificent cano]^, with a plume of feathers— the curtains bdng of
blaek velvet, with linings, oomioe, and iHnges of silver, and draped in graceful festoons. The Hall
was lighted with wax-tapers, and the dais with twelve magnificent silver candelabra^ each with five
wax-lights ; here were also ten columns of spears, feathers, laurel, and escutcheons, lighted by gas.
Along the ride walls stood picked soldiers of the Grenadier Guards, their arms reversed; around
the catalUque, Teomen of tne Guards and seated mourners: and tne chair of the chief mourner
concealed at the head of the coffin. The whole was designea by Mr. Cockerell. the architect. Two
po-soos died, and several were seriously hurt by the pressure of the vast crowd of spectators.
The old soldiers receive pensions from funds voted by Parliament : in 1850 there
were nearly 70,000 out-pensioners, who received 6d^9d., and Is, per diem ; there were 689
in-pensioners, who were well clothed and fed in the Hospital, and were allowed Id, a day
for tobaooo, which is called " her Majesty's bounty." They wear long scarlet coats,
lined with blue, and the original three-cornered cocked hats of the last century : undress,
a foraging cap, inscribed B.H. Their ages vary from 60 to 90 years, and two veterans
bad in 1860 attained the age of 104. The annual rate of mortality among the Pen-
noners is 27 per cent.
Adjoining the Hospital is a burial-ground for Pensioners, wherdn are the following
data : — William Hisland, died 1732, aged 112 — be married when upwards of 100 years
old ; Thomas Asbey, died 1737, aged 112 ; Captain Laurence, died 1866, aged 96 ; Robert
Camming, died 1767, aged 115 ; Peter Dowling, 1768, aged 102 ; a Soldier who fought
at the battle of the Boyne, 1772, aged 111; Peter Bennet, of Tinmouth, died 1778,
aged 107.
In 1739 was interred here Christian Davis, alias Mother Boss, who had served in
campaigns nnder William III. and the Duke of Marlborough, and whose third husband
was a Pensioner in the Hospital.
The Hospital Gardens are, in a measure, open to the public, but are little frequented.
The river terrace is bordered with dwarf limes, and there are besides some fixie shady
trees. "The Old Men's Ghuxlens" have been deared away.
North of the Hospital is the Koyal Military Asylum, for the support and education
of the children of soldiers and non-commissioned officers : the first stone of the building
was laid by the Duke of York, in 1801. The Hospital and Asylum may.be seen
daily, from 10 till 4 : the boys parade on Fridays.
Eastward of the Hospital was the famous Rajteiagh, wliich see. Upon part of the
nte was built a huge house, with a portion of the materials of Ranelagh : it had a
large Queen Anne staircase : this house was taken down in 1854^ in forming the road
to tbe new Chelsea Bridge.
94 CUBI08ITIE8 OF LONDON.
CffJELSSA FORCSLAIN.
THE earliest manofacbories of poroelain in England were those at Bow* and
Chelsea, both which have long been extinct. " The Chelsea ware, bearing a very
imperfect umilarity in body to the Chinese, admitted only of a very fbsible lead glaze ;
and in the taste of its patterns, and the style of their ezecntion, stood as low, perhaps*
as any on the list." (A. Aikin; Tram, Soc. ArU^ This character, however, applies
only to the later productions. The period of the g^reatest excellence of the Chelsea
poroelain was between 1760 and 1763 ; and there was so much demand for it, that
dealers are described as surrounding the doors of the works, and purchasing the pieces
at large prices^ as soon as they were fired.
Faulkner, in his History of Cheltea, (1829,) states : ** The Chelsea China Manufac-
tory was utuate at the comer of Justice-walk, and occupied the houses to the upper
end of the street. Several of the large old houses were used as show-rooms. It has
been discontinued for more than forty years, the whole of the premises pulled down,
and new houses erected on the site."
Justice-walk took its name from a magistrate who resided in the house at the south
corner of Church-street, whence formerly an avenue of lime-trees extended to Lawrence-
street ; and in the latter were the ovens of the Chelsea China Manufactory, where Dr.
Johnson made experiments on tea-cups.
Johnson had oonoelTed the idea thai he woe posseoed of a peculiar 'secret for making porcelain s
he obtafaied perminioa to have hia compoaitiona Mked in the ovena af Chelaea, and here he watdied
them day by day. He waa not allowed to enter the mizin^-room, bnt had free aeceaa to all other parts
of the manoikctory, and roaghly modelled hia oompoaition in a room by himaelC He failed in all his
triala, tat none of the ajrticlea He formed would bear the heat of firiug. He at laat nve np hia attempts
in diagroat. He always conceived that one rimple ingredient waa anfflcient to Ibrm the body of poroelaiii ;
wherna Stephens, who managed the manuactory, declared to him that in the oompoaiaon of the
Chelsea paste no leaa than aixteen different aubatancea were blended together.
" The premises were not far distant fh>m Church-street, and near the water-aide.
They subsequently became a stained paper manufactory, conducted by Messrs. Echardta
and Woodmason, in 1786 ; afterwards by Messrs. Bowen and Co. ; and in 1810 by
Messrs. Harwood and Co." (21 Crofton CroJeer, FJ3.A.) The works were discontinued
in 1764^ and the manufacture was then removed to Derby, and the ware was called
Chelsea-Derby : it has the mark of a D crossed by an anchor ; it is very beautiful,
but as dear as silver.
In July, 1850, we saw in the stock of Mr. Hdgham, Fulham-road, a set of three
Chelsea vases, remarkably fine in form and colour ; each bearing a view of the old
church at Chelsea and the china-manufactory.
" Martin Liater mentions a manofhctore at Chelsea aa early as 1698, comparing its prodnctiona with
those of St. Clond, near Paris. It waa n&tronixed by George II.. who brongnt over artifloera from
Bnmawiok and Saxony ; whence, probably, M. Brongniart terma Chelaea a ' ManafSutore Boyale.' Iti
repatatlon commenced abont 1740; and in 1746 the celebiiiy of Chelaea poroelain waa renrded with
jealooay by the mannfactmrera of France, who therefore petitioned Looia XV. to concede to them
exdoalve privilena. About 1760, it waa nnder the diiection of M. Spremont^ a foreigner. The pro-
ductions of the Chelaea fomacea were tliought worthy to vie with those of the celebrated manuftctories
of Germany. Walpole, in hia correspondence with Sir Horace Hann, mentions a service of CSielaea
porodain aent bv the King and Queen to the Duke of Heddeuburg, which coat 12002. The Dnke of
Cumberland took much interest in jpromcting the ancceaa of this intereating manu&cture. The mark
is an Anchor, in gold, burnished on the beat spedmena, and rod on the inferior."— Jbr»<«r'« Ifotn to tkt
aUfW Catalogs, 1848.
At Stowe, in 1848, the finest specimen '*of rare old Chelsea-china" sold was a pair
of small vaseis painted with Roman triumphs, 23Z. lOiv. Few specimens of Chelsea
ware were sold at Strawberry Hill, in 1842. At the sale of Sir John Maodonald's col-
lection, in 1850, a pair of Chelsea cups and sauceni, painted with birds, brought 86/. 15«.
In 1854^ some fine examples of Chelsea porcelain were exhibited in the Crystal
Palace, Sydenham. There was a Chelsea tea-pot which had belonged to Dr. Johnson.
In the Bemal Collection, sold in March, 1855, a pur of Scalloped Chelsea Vases,
painted with birds, brought 110/. 6f. ; a pair of oval dishes, 13/. 13^. ; a two-handled
cup and saucer, 21/. ; and an ^cuelle, very delicately painted with fiowers, 27/. 6«.
* Bow China, formerly made at Stratford-Ie-Bow, is alwaya marked with a crescent, or how : it much
resembles in quality the old Worcester or Derby, and is mostly of blue pattern; it is scarce, bat never
flue*
CHBISra HOSPITAL. 95
CSJSSS CLUBS.
FVl4t*t, the principal, if not the only Chess Cluh in the metropolis met at Slaughter's
CofTee-hoase, St. Martin's-Iane. The leading players of this Cluh were — Sir
Abraham Jannsen, Philip Stamma (from Aleppo), Lord Godolphin, Lord Sunderland,
and Lord Elihank; Cunningham, the historian; Dr. Black and Dr. Cowper; and
it was through their invitation that the celebrated Philidor was induced to visit
England.
Another Club was shortly afterwards founded at the Salopian Coffee-house, Charing
Crow : and a few years later, a third, which met next door to the Thatched House
Tavern, in St. James's- street. It was here that Philidor exhibited his wonderful
faculty for playing blindfold ; some instances of which we find in the newspapers of
the period : —
"Tettcrdn; st the Chess Club In St. Jaroes'S'Street, Monsieur Philidor performed one of these
vooderflil ezlubitions for which he is so mnch celebrated. He played three d^erent game* at once with*
cMit mdng either of the tables. His opponents were Count Bruhl and Mr. Bowdler (the two best
flayers in London), and Mr. Maseres. He deCsated Count Bmhl in one hour and twenty minutes, and
Mr. Maseres in two hours ; Mr. Bowdler reduced his games to a drawn battle in one hour and three-
quarttfs. To those who understand Chess, this exertion of M. Philidor's abilities must appear one of
the greatest of which tlie human memory is susceptible. He goes through it with astonishing accuracy,
and often eonrects mistalces in those who have the board before than."
In 1795, the veteran, then nearly seventy years of age, played three blindfold
matches in public. The last of these, which came off shortly before his death, we find
annonnced in the daily newspapers thus : —
"Chxbs Clvb, 1705. Passlox's St. Jaxbs's Stbxst.
By paiiiciilar desire, Mons. Philidor, positively for the last time, will play on Saturday, the 20th of June^
at two o'dodc precisely, three games at once against three good players; two of them without seemg
cither of the boards, and the third looking over the table. Ho most respectfully invites all the members
(f the Cbem Club to honour him with their presence. Ladies and sentlemen not belonging to the
Ciub may be provided with tickets at the above-mentioned house, to seetne match, at five shillings each."
Upon the death of Philidor, the Chess Clubs at the West-end seem to have de-
dined ; and in 1807, the stronghold and rallying point for the lovers of the game was
'* the London Cliess Club," which was established in the City, and for many years held
its meetings at Tom's Coffee-house, in ComhilL To this Club we are indebted for
many of the finest chess-players of the age ; and after the lapse of nearly a century,
the Club still flourished, and numbered among its members some of the leading
proficients.
About the year 1838, a Club was founded by a few amateurs in Bedford-street,
Covent Garden.- This establishment, which obtained remarkable celebrity as the arena
of the fiunous contests between Ija Bourdonnais and M'Donnell, was dissolved in 1840;
but shortly afterwards, through the exertions of Mr. Staunton, was re-formed under
the name of "the St. George's Club,'' in Cavendish-square, since removed to 20,
King-street, S.W.
In addition to the above, and the London Chess Club, which held its meetings at the
George and Vultnre Tavern, Comhill, there are many minor institutions in various
parts of the metropolis and its environs, where Chess, and Chess only, forms the staple
recreation of the members. There are also the magnificent Cigar Divan, No. 100,
Strand, belong^g to Mr. Ries ; and Kilpack's well-appointed Divan, 42, King-street^
Covent Garden ; at each of which the leading Chess publications are accessible to
visitora, and where as many as twenty Chess-boojrds may often be seen in requintlon at
the same time.
CMSISrS HOSPITAL.
l^TE owe the foundation of this, "the noblest institution in the world/' to the ex-
*T ertions of the City of London to provide for a large houseless population, in
which good work the citizens were greatly assisted by grants from King Henry VIII.
It was long costomary to designate King Edward VI. as its special founder ; but his-
torical records ahow that King Edward had little to do with the foundation of Christ's
96 CUBIOSITLES OF LONDON.
Hospital : both the house itself, and the revenaes for its snpport, came from his pre-
decessor, or were raised by the bounty of the citizens themselves ; the young King
Edward bestowed upon the Hospital its name, and conferred upon it certain grants for
its support^ in connexion with the hospital of Bridewell, which the King had founded ;
and St. Thomas's which the citizens themselves had purchased. The story runs, that
the King's attention was directed to this foundation by a sermon preached before him
by Bishop Ridley, in the year 1552 ; and that in consequence, the King sent by the
Bishop a letter to the Mayor, " declaring his special commandment, that the Mayor
should travail therein," which are the words of the old chronicler Grafton. But this
was not until after the citizens had done what they could, and found that they re-
quired certain aid from the Crown. Bishop Ridley himself, in his farewell letter to
his friends, written shortly before his martyrdom, attributed the chief merit to the
City magistrates ; first to Sir Richard Dobbs, in whose mayoralty the renewed effort
was made ; and next to his successor. Sir Qeorge Barnes.
When the Qrey Friars came to London in the thirteenth century, they established
themselves on the north side of what we now call Newgate-street. Here, uded by the
citizens, they built first a chapel, then a church, and then agun a much larger church,
— the latter between 1801 and 1327. In 1539 they surrendered to King Henry VIII.,
in whose hands the house remained for some time. Just before his deatii, he provided
that the church of the Giey Friars should become the parish church of "Christ's
Church within Newgate."
It appears that Christ's Hospital was not originally founded as a school; its object
was to rescue young children from the streets, to shelter, feed, clothe, and lastly to
educate them. The citizens had already received from the King the monastery of the
Grey Friars ; and from its new parish church came the name of " Christ's Hospital."
When the citizens had collected sufficient funds, they repaired the Grey Friars build-
ings, and on the 23rd of November, 1552, the poor children were received to the
number of almost four hundred. When the Lord Mayor and Aldermen rode to
St. Paul's on the following Christmas-day, all the children stood in array "from St.
Laurence-lane-in-Cheap towards Paul's," attired in a livery or dress of russet cotton,
the boys with red caps, and the g^rls with kerchiefs on their heads, having a woman
keeper between every twenty children; and accompanied also by the physician and
four surgeons, and the masters of the HospitaL
At the following Easter, the boys and " mayden children" were in " plonket," or
blue ; hence Christ's Hospital also became called the Blue Coat School It has been
imagined tliat the coat was the mantle, and the yellow, as it is technically termed, the
sleeveleas tunic of the monastery ; the leathern girdle also corresponding vdth the
hempen cord of the friar. There is an old tradition among the boys that the dress
was originally of velvet, fastened with silver buttons, and an exact fac-simile of the
ordinary habit of King Edward VI.
It is most reasonable to regard the dress as copied from the costume of the dtizens
of London at this period (1552), when long blue coats were the common habit of
apprentices and serving-men, and yellow stockings were generally worn [the School is
vulgarly called " the Yellow Stocking School ] ; the coat fits closely to the body, but has
loose sleeves, and beneath is worn a sleeveless yellow under-coat ; around the waist is
a red leathern girdle ; a clerical band round the neck, and a small fiat black cap about
the size of a saucer, complete the costume.
While the citizens were perfecting the good work. King Edward was seized with
small-pox, from the effects of which he never recovered. When, however, the scheme
for the endowment of the Royal Hospitals was placed before the pious prince, and
according to the usual practice, a blank had been left for the amount of property which
the City were to receive for this olject, Edward, with his own hand, wrote in the sum,
** four thousand marks by the year ;" and then exdaimed, in the hearing of his Council,
" Lord, I yield Thee most hearty thanks that Thou hast given me life thus long, to
finish this work, to the glory of Thy name !"
Among the early bequests is the following: — ^When the Hospital was erected
and put into good order, there was one Richard Castel, cUiat Casteller, shoemaker,
dwelling in Westminster, a man who was called "the Cock of Westminster," because
CHRIST 8 HOSPITAL. • 97
both winter and sammer he was at work by {bar o'clock in the monung. This man,
thus steactily and honestly labouring for his living, purchased lands and tenements
at Westminster, worth 44/. per annam ; and having no child, with the consent of his
wife, who survived him, gave the same lands wholly to Christ's Hospital, and for the
" saooonr of the miserable sore and sick harboured in other hospitals about London."
The andent Hospital buildhigs suffered materially in the Gre»t Fire of 1666, when
the chnrch of the monastery was entirely destroyed. The Hospital was rebuilt by the
Oovernora, anticipating its revenue from the endowment of the King, and other
sources. The Great Hall was rebuilt by Alderman Sir John Frederick, at a cost of
50002. The first important addition to the foundation, after the Firo, was the
Mathematical School, founded by Charles II. 1672, for forty boys, to be instructed in
navigation : they are called " King's boys," and wear a badge on the right shoulder
Lest this mathematical school should fail for want of boys properly qualified to supply
it, one Mr. Stone, a governor, left a legacy to maintain a subordinate Mathematics
School of twelve boys (" the Twelves"), who wear a badge on the left shoulder ; and to
thcee have been added ** the Twos."
The Mathematical School was originally designed by Samuel Pepys, then Secretary
to the Admiralty. There is preserved a collection of letters between Pepys and
Major Aungier, Sir Isaac Newton, Halley, and other persons, relating to the manage-
ment of the Mathematical School ; and containing details of the career of some of the
King's scholars after leaving school. The letters extend from 1692 to 1696, and are
the original letters received by Pepys, with his drafts of the answers. . {Notes and
Quf^ies, No. 227.) Pepys, it appears, printed and handed about privately, some
letters about the abuses of Christ's Hospital ; he certainly saved from ruin the Mathe*
matical foundation. This was the first considerable extension of the system of educa-
tion at the Hospital, which originally consisted of a gprammar school for boys, and a
separate school for girts; the latter being taught to read, sew, and mark. Pepys
relates the following curious story of a Blue-coat girl : —
"Two wealthy dtizens are lately dead, and left their estates, one to a little Bine-coat boy, and the
other to a Bine-coat girl, in ChriBf a Hospital. The extraordinariness of which has led some of the
maflnstrates to carr^ it on to a match, which is ended in a pablic weddin^f — he in his habit of blue satin,
led by two of the ffirls, and she in blue with an apron green, and petticoat yellow, all of sarsnet^ led by
two of the boys or the house, throogh Cheapside to Qoildhall Chapel, where they were married by the
Deao of St. Paul's, she jriTeu by my Lord Mayor. The wedding diiajner, it seems, was kept in the Hos-
pital haU."— P<|i>r« to Mf, Sieward, Sepi, 20, 1606.
The East Ooister and South front were next (in 1675) rebuilt by Sir Robert
Clayton, alderman, and cost him about 7000^. ; but it was not known who was the
benefactor until the whole was finished. The Writing School was built by Sir Chris-
topher Wren, in 1694^ at the expense of 5000^. to Sir John Moore» of whom a marble
statne is placed in the front : this echfxA is situated on the west side of the play-
ground, and is supported on clusters, which shelter the boys in bad weather ; the ward
over the east side cloister was rebuilt in 1705, by Sir Frands Child the banker ; and
in 1796 was erected the Qrammar School. Some of the buildings of the ancient
monastery were standing early in the present century, but they had become ruinous
and unsafe ; and in 1808 was commenced a fund for rebuilding the whole, the Cor-
poration of London granting 5000/., and many private benefactions being made. The
refectory of the monastery originally served as the dining-hall of the Hospital : after
the Great Fire» the hall was rebuilt ; this was taken down, and partly upon its site, and
paitly on the ancient City wall, was erected a vast edifice in the Tudor style by John
8kaw, F.B.S., F.S.A., architect ; the first stone laid by the Duke of York, April 25,
1825. The back wall stands on the site of the ditch that anciently surrounded London,
and is built on piles driven twenty feet deep ; in excavating for the foundation there
were found some Roman arms and coins, and some curious leathern sandals. The
southern or principal front, fadng Newgate-street, is supported by buttresses and has
an octagonal tower at each extremity; and the summit is embattled and pin-
nacled. On the ground story is an arcade open to the play-ground; here also are
the Governors' meeting-room, and the Hospital wardrobe ; and in the basement are
the vast kitchen, 67 feet by 33 feet; and butteries and cellars. In the rear of the
Uall is the Infirmary ; and on the east and west sides of the cloister are the dormi*
H
93 OUBI0SITIE8 OF LONDON.
tones. Tlie arcade beneath the Hall is built with blocks of Haytor g^ranite, highly-
wrought ; the remainder of the front is of Portland stone. Over the centre arch of the
arcade is a bust of Edward YI. The area in front or play-ground, ia enclosed by
handsome metal gates, enriched with the arms of the Hospital : argent, across gules,
in the dexter chief, a dagger of the first {The Ciiy of London), on a chief azure, be-
tween two fleurs-de-h»or, a rose argent.
The Dining-hall, with its lobby and organ-gallery, occupies the entire story, which
is 187 feet long, 61 feet wide, and 47 feet high ; it is lit by nine large windows, filled
with stained glass on the south ude ; and is^ next to Westminster Hall, the noblest
room in the metropolis.
In the Great Hall hangs a large picture of King Edward YI. seated on his throne, in a scarlet and
ermined robe, holding the sceptre in nis left hand, and presenting with the other the charter to the
kneeling Lord Mayor. By his side stands the Chancellor, holding the seals, and next to him are otha
officers of state. Itishop Bidley kneels before him with uplifted hands, as if sappUcating a blessing on
the event ; whilst the Aldermen, &c^ with the Lord Mayor, kneel on both sides, occupymg the middle
* groand of the pictnre; and lastly, m front, are a doable row of boys on one side, and girls on tha
other, firom the master and matron down to the boy and girl who have stepped forward from their re-
spective rows, and kneel with raised hands before the King.
This picture was long erroneously attributed to Holbein; but it is now considered
to be of the period of James I., or Charles I. ; it is 80 feet long. Here is also a still
larger picture^ in which James II. is receiving tbe " Mathemati(»l boys," though there
are girls as well as boys. This was punted by Verrio, who also painted the full length
of Charles II., which hangs near it. Here are likewise full-length portraits of Queen
Victoria and Prince Albert^ by Qrant ; and a picture of Brook Watson's escape, when
a boy, from a shark, with the loss of a leg, while bathing, painted by Copley, father
of Lord Chancellor Lyndhurst.
In the Treasurer's house is a portrait of Edward YI., oonndered by Mr. J. Gough
Nichols to have been evidently painted towards the end of the King's life. There is
also at the Hospital another portnut, inscribed *' Edwardus, Walliss Frinceps, anno
ffitatis sufB 9." These portraits have been ascribed to Hdbdn ; but by the recent
discovery of the will of Holbein, it is proved that at his death Edward VI. was only
in his sixth year. Neither is there better evidence of the Charter picture in the
€hreat Hall: the event took place in 1553; and "it is now ascertained beyond dis-
pute that Holbein could have produced no work later than the year 1534 ; whilst
hitherto his era has been extended for eleven years longer."— -Nichols. See also
Archaoloffia ! vol. xxxix., pt. 1, 1863.
In the Hall the boys, now about 800 in number, dine; and here are held the " Sup-
pings in Public," to which visitors are admitted by tickets, issued by the Treasurer and
by the (Governors. The tables are laid with cheese in wooden bowls ; beer, in wooden
pigg^ns, poured from leathern jacks ; and bread brought in large baskets. The official
company enter ; the Lord Mayor, or President, takes his seat in a state-chair, made of
oak from St. Katherine's church by the Tower; a hymn is sung, accompanied by the
organ ; a " Qrecian," or head-boy, reads the prayers from the pulpit, silence being en-
forced by three drops of a wooden hammer. After prayer, the supper conunences, and
the visitors walk between the tables. At its dose, the "trade-boys" take up the
baskets, bowls, jacks, piggins, and candlesticks, and pass in procession, the bowing to the
Governors being curiously formal. The " Suppings in Public" are held every Sun-
day, from Quinquag^sima Sunday to Easter Sunday, iijclusive ; they are a picturesque
sight, and always well attended. This interesting spectacle was witnessed by Queen
Victoria and Prince Albert, on Sunday evening, March 9th, 1845.
In this Hall, too, St. Matthew's Day (September 21st) tJie day of the annual Com-
memoration is a festival set apart from the first year of their foundation for the General
Court of the several Royal Hospitals ; and it is still observed with the usual solemnity.
The Lord Mayor and Aldermen having met the Governors of each hospital in the
Great HaU, tbe children paaa before them, leading the way to Christ Church, where
the sermon is preached. The company return to the Hall to hear the Grecians, or
head-boys, deliver Orations before the Lord Mayor, Corporadon, and Governors, and
their friends ; this being a relic of the scholars' disputations in the cloisters. After the
Orations, a collection is made for the speakers in furtherance of their support at the
University. TroUope, in 1834, stated about 120^. to be usually contributed. The de-
CHBISrS HOSPITAL. . 99
lircry of the list of Governors follows the collection ; and, according to the " Order of
the Hospitals," all the headles are called before the Coui*t, and, delivering up their
stave:!, retire to the bottom of the Hall, " that the opinion of the Court may be heard
touching the doing of tlieir duties : to the intent, if any of them be faulty e, that he
or they may be rebuked or dismissed, at the discretion of the said Court ; and there-
npon to deliver unto snche as then remayne their staves, and again astablishe them."
Ihese forms concluded, the Court is dissolved, and the company, having partaken of
refireshmentff, retire. It appears from the journal of Sheriff Hoare, 1740-41, that
*' sweet cakes and burnt wine" were then handed round on these occasions, and the
usual breakfast was " roast beef and burnt wine."
The Spital or Hospital Sermons are preached in Christ Church, Newgate-street, on
Easter Monday and Tuesday. On Monday the children proceed to the Mansion
House, and return in procesaon to Christ Church, with the Lord Mayor, Lady
Mayoress, and City authoritiesi, to hear the sermon. On Tuesday the children again go
to the Ibmsioa House, and pass through the Egyptian Hall, before the Lord Mayor,
each boy receiving a glass of wine, two buns, and a shilling ; the monitors half-a-crown
€ach, the probationers half-a-guinea each, and the Grecians a guinea — all in coins fresh
from the Mint ; they then return to Christ Church, as on Monday.
The boys formerly visited the Boyal Exchange on Easter Monday ; but this has
been discontinued since the burning of the last Exchange, in 1838.
At the first drawing-room of the year the forty Mathematical boys are presented
to the Sovereign, who inspects their charts, and who g^ves them SI, 8«. as a
gratuity. To this other members of the Royal Family formerly added smaller sums,
and the whole was divided among the ten boys who left the school in the year.
Daring the illness of King George III. these presentations were discontinued ; but
tlie Governors of the Hospital continued to pay 1/. 3^., the amount ordinarily
received by each, to every boy on quitting. The practice of receiving the boys was
revived by William IV., and is continued by her present Majesty. Each scholar
having passed his Trinity* House examination, and received testimonials of his good
conduct, is presented with a w€Uch, as a reward, worth from 9/. to 13/. ; in addition
to an outfit of clothes, books, mathematical instruments, a Gunter's scale, a quadrant,
and a scA-chest.
Christ's Hospital, by andent custom, possesses the privilege of addressing the
Sovereign on the occasion of his or her coming into the City to partake of the hos-
pitality of the Corporation of London. On the virit of Queen Victoria in 1837, a booth
was erected for the Hospital boys in St. Paul's Churchyard ; and on the Royal carriage
reaching the Cathedral west gate, the senior scholar, with the Head Master and
Treasurer, advanced to the ooach-door, and delivered a congratulatory address to her
Majesty, with a copy of the same on vellum.
The School has always been famous for its penmen. The education consists of
leading, writmg, and arithmetic, French, the classics, and the mathematics. There are
rixteen Exhibitions for scholarships at the Universities of Oxford and Cambridge,
besides a " Pitt Scholarship," and a « I^mss Scholarship," the latter founded by the
proprietors of that journal, with a fund subscribed by the public in testimony of their
detection of the Bogle Fraud, 1841.
Among the more eminent Bluet, as the scholars are termed, are Joshua Barnes,
editor of Anacreon and Euripides; Jeremiah Markland, the eminent critic, particularly
in Gr«ek literature ; Camden, the antiquary ; Bishop Stillingfleet. [Pepys has this
quaint entry in his Diary i *< January 16, 1666-7, Sir R.Ford telb me how the famous
Stillingfleet was a Blue Coat boy."] Samuel Richardson, the novelist; Thomas
Mitchell, the translator of Aristophanes ; Thomas Barnes, many years editor of the
TlmeM newspaper; and Coleridge, Charles Lamb, and Leigh Hunt, who have published
many interesting reminiscences of their contemporaries in the School. LamVs
" Recollections of Christ's Hospital," and " Christ's Hospital Five and Thirty Years
Ago" (says Peter Cunningham, once a Deputy Grecian), have done much to uphold the
dignity of the School.
The Library is a recent addition ; it is a spacious room, divided into boxes and pro-
vided with tables : on the walls hang useful maps, and engravings of the steam-engine ;
n2
100 PJJRIOSITIES OF LONDON.
at one end is stored a small bat well*chosen collection of books, and on the table are
several illustrated periodicals. Another addition is the erection of a Gymnasium.
The old cloister of the Ghrey Friars Priory, repaired by Wren, and nearly deprived
of its ancient appearance, formerly served as a public thoroughfare from Newgate-street
to Smithfield, but has been stopped up. In 1855, in excavating for some new houses
on the north side of Newgate-street, were exposed, under Christ's Church yard three
pointed arches, 10 feet in span, and covered with masses of chalk and concrete, to
within three feet of the surface, the rest being earth ; these being vestiges of the Grey
Friars buildings ; as also are the gateway and a portion of the brick building under
which it opens, together with the cloister^ passage in rear oi the basement. The brick-
work of the superstructure, of about Elizabeth's reign, is marvellously fine.
The customs of the School have varied with lime. Formerly the Saints' days were
kept as holidays ; money-boxes for the poor were kept in the cloister ; and unruly
boys were kept confined in dungeons; but these regulations have been discontinued.
Bread and beer are no longer the breakfifist. Nor do the boys perform common menial
offices as heretofore. The wards or dormitories, in which the boys sleep, are seventeen
in number ; each boy makes his own bed, and each ward is governed by a nurse and
two or more monitors. There is a carious feature in most of the sleeping wards : in
one comer, near the roof; and reached by a staircase, is a wooden box, which serves as
a resting-place and study for the " Grecian " of the ward. From this eminence he is
enabled to notice any delinquency below.
The general burial-ground of the Hospital is between the south cloister and the
houses in Newgate-street, whore the funerab formerly took place by torch-light, and
the service was preceded by an anthem, thus reviving the monastic associations of the
place. The Burials are now by daylight.
A book is preserved, containing the records of the Hospital from its foundation, and
an anthem sung by the first children.
The income of the institution has known much fluctuation ; and consequently, also,
the number of inmates. The 840 children with which the Hospital opened had
dwindled in 1580 to 150. The object of the institution has also, in the lapse of time,
become materially chang^, which may in a g^eat measure be attributed to the influence
of the Governors, or benefactors, its chief supporters. The government is practically
vested in a committee of 50 almoners. The system of education is not considered to
have kept pace with the requirements of the times.
We have seen that there were abuses in the management of the Hospital in Pepys's
time ; they have lasted to our day. In 1810, Mr. Waithman, one of the Common
Councilmen for the Ward in which the Hospital is situated, showed that instead of
being a benefit to the children of the poor and friendless, it was engrossed almost ex-
clusively by the rich. Plresentatioiis were, at that time, sold at an average of thirty-
guineas each. By recommendation of Sir Samuel Romilly, and Mr. Bell, the Lord
Chancellor was petitioned for an inquiry into the conduct of the Hospital Committee ;
but, in 1816, iU object failed. As testimonies to the original designs of the foun-
dation, a statue of a Blue Coat Boy, in each of the four corners of the cloister, had,
within the recollection of several persons living, the following painted notice underneath :
" This is Christ's Hospital, where poor Blae-Coat boys are harboured and educated."— ^tt^A«o«'9
Walkt ihrouffk London.
There is printed annually, and freely circulated, " A True Report of the Number of Children and
other poor People maintained in the several Royal Hospitals in the City of London, under the pious care
of the Bight Honourable the Lord Mavor* Aldermen, and Governors thereof, for the year last past."
This document, in appearance, resembles a sheet almanaclc : it is headed by the Easter anthem set to
music : and it la enclosed in a woodcut border, the design of which indicates the custom of printing
these Reports to have been of lonir standing. In the upper nortion of the l>order are the Royal Arms;
at the sides are the City Arms, ancient and modern ; in medallions at the comers are three figures of the
Christ's Hospital boys, and one of a girl : at the foot is an emblematic group, with the old Hospital in
the background; and beneath it is inscribed on a ribbon, " Pray remember the Poor."
The income arising from early endo\vroents and bequests, which may be set down as
exceeding 40,0002. per annum, is largely augmented by the contributions of Governors,
cf whom, on an average, twenty-five are elected annually ; and as they give 5002. each
on election, 12,500/. a year arises from this source.
In 1866, the gross receipts amounted to 71,8562. 13«. lOtf., more than one half of which is derived
OHUBCHES AND OHAPE^S. loi
from the rents of ertatefl, oait-rente, tithe-rent charges, Ac. The benefactions were 8021/.; legacies,
GiiSOL 2c lid. The expenditure contains among othw items, 27202. 18*. 9d. payments under bene-
ftetiona, wilb, deeds of gift^ ftc, to various parishes and companies for their poor and for other otgects,
to pensioners, for relief of priaoners for debt, for setting up in business young men and women educated
in the Hospital, and other purposes, 28272. The sum aTsilable for the purposes of the Hospital waa
S7y38M. 0>. lid. The washing at the two establishraenti amounted to 20102. 9a. ed. The provisions and
stores (leas the sum received by sale of kitchen-stufr and dripping), amounted to 10,3422. 0*. id.;
coals and fuel, 7832. IS*. 8<2. ; gaslighting and water supply, 16652. 7a. ; the charges for apparel, linen,
bedding, shoes, and leather, were 64082. The average number of children maintained and educated in
flie London and Hertfbrd establishments in 1865 was 1205 ; and the average expenditure per child,
412. U. 7^
Boys, whose parents may not be free of the City of London, are admissible on Free
Presentations, as they are called ; as are also the sons of clergymen of the Church of
England. The Lord Mayor has two presentations annnally ; and the Court of Alder-
men one each : it was the good practice of the late Alderman Humphery, to give his
presentations to inhabitants of the Ward over which he presided. The rest of the
Governors have presentations once in three years. A list of the Oovernors who have
presentations for the year is printed every Easter, and may be had at the Connting-
bonse of the Hoepital. No boy is admitted before he is seven years old, or after he is
nine ; and no boy can remain in the School after he is fifteen, King's boys and Grecians
alone excepted. There are about 500 Governors, at the head of whom are the Queen,
the Prince of Wales, and Prince Alfred. The President is the Duke of Cambridge,
whose election to tliat office was a departure from the custom, which had hitherto been
to elect the Lord Mayor for the time being. The qualification for a Governor is pay-
ment of 500^. ; but an Alderman has the power of nominating a Governor for ejection
at half price. About 200 boys are admitted annually (at the age of from seven to
ten years), by presentations in rotation, so that the privilege occurs about once in three
or four years. A list of the Governors having presentations is published annually in
March, and is to be had at the counting-house of the Hospital.
The subordinate establishment is at Hertford, to which the younger boys are sent
prcpiratory to their entering on the foundation in London, which ta1<c8 place as
vacancies occur. The building at Hertford was erected by the Hospital Governors in
1683, and has extensive grounds for recreation; when full, it will contain 416 children,
of whom about 200 are taught the classics. There is likewise accommodation here for
80 girls.
The Beport published in 1865 states that all the early ond chief gifts of the property held by the Hospital
are expressed to be for the benefit of poor children, without distinction of sex; nor does the Hospital
during the early pcrio<'' of its institution appear to have been appropriated more to boys than to girls.
For man^ years post, however, up to a recent period, only sii girls were admitted (at Hertford) evenr
year, besides those received under specific trusts. The education of a bov so as to advance him in life
was thought to be of much greater material advantage to a family than the education of a girl ; so that
it waa a common expression that a governor ** threw away " his presentation on nominating a girl. But
the purpose of the foundation being the public good, it Is considered that the general good would have
been better promoted if at least an equal share of the funds of the Hospital had been expended in the
education of girls.
In 1858, there were 61 girls in the establishment at Hertford, which, in its teaching, was below the
level of a good parish school ; the number of scholars has since been reduced to 26. Improved schemes
of edacation have been suggested, to comprise instruction in needlework, washing, cooKing, and other
faooaebold work.
Apart from the special pnrpose for which Christ's Hospital was endowed, there are
■even cUstinct Charities appropriated, in part or in whole, to entirely separate objects.
The annual income from six of these charities may be stated at 90002. The seventh,
the pharity to the Blind, by the Rev. W. Hetherington, since augmented by many bene-
fiictors, is the wealthiest of all : in one year, 6520/. have been paid to 652 aged blind
pciBona. To this fund the late Richard Thornton, Esq., bequeathed 10,000/.
CMURCEES AND CHAPELS.
AN epi.«copal see was founded in London in the time of the Roman occupation of
Britain, but very little is known concerning it. From the establishment of the
Saxons in Britain to the mission of Augustine, in 596, there is no record of any
Bishop in London; but when Augustine had established himself at Canterbury,
he consecrated Mellitns Bishop, in the year 604. The East Saxons relapsed into
paganism, on the death of Sebert» their king, when Mellitus was driven out» and
••• fc^ • •••••
••* • ••••••
«•* * •••••••
• •-• •• •••••
* •• • • • •
»•••*••• •• • ••
• • - - • • • . •
• ■
•105 dUBfOSITIES OF LONDON.
LoDdon remained without a Bishop until 6£6, in which year Cedd (or Chad), at the
invitation of King Sigebert the Good, re-established the see, which has ever since con-
tinned without any material interruption or lengthened vacancy.
London and the suburbs, in the Middle Ages, contained, according to Fitzstephen,
" 13 churches belonging to convents, besides 126 lesser parish churches." Of those
belonging to convents eleven may be traced. Thus, we find in Fitzstephen's time.
Trinity Priory, Aldgatej St. Bartholomew's, West Smithfield; Bermondsey, South-
wark ; St. James's Priory, Clerkenwell ; the Priory of St. John the Baptist, Holywell*
Bhoreditch; St. Katharine's Hospital by the Tower; St Thomas Aeon, at the south-
west comer of King-street, Cheapside, upon the ute of the birth-place of St. Thomas i.
Becket; St. John of Jerusalem, Clerkensvell ; the Temple; St. Mary Overie, South-
wark; and St. Martin's-le-Grand, so named from its mngnificence. All, except
Bermondsey, are shown in Wyngrerde's View cf London^ 1543, in the Sutherland
Collection, at Oxford.
Stow states the entire number of parish churches at his time (1525 — 1605), in and
about London, within four miles' compass, at 139. Within the walls, at the Great
Fire, there were 98 churches, of which 85 were burnt down, and 13 unbornt ; 53 were
rebuilt, and 35 united to ether parishes.
The following were the City Churches burnt and not rebuilt :— -
Allhallows, Eoney-Iaae ; near the Cltj School. Alihallows the Less, In Tbames-sbeet, near Cole-
harbour-lane, graveyard remains.. St. Andrew Rabbard, near to the site of the Weigh House ChapeU
St. Ann, BUuskfHars, Ireland-yu>d» now graveyard. St. Benet Sherehog, Paneras-lcne, near Bucklera-
bozy, now graveyard. St Botolph Billingigate, over against Botolph-lane, Thaines-etreet; bnrying-
ground, and the site boilt upon. St. Faith was under the lien of the late Cathedral of St. Paul's, in the
ground of which, previous to the Intramural Act, the parishioners had a right of interment. St. Gabriel,
Fenchurch, In Fenchurch-street, graveyard exists. St Gr^oiy, in St. Faul's-churchvard, near where
the statue of Queen Anne now stands. St. John Baptist on Dowgate-hill, the comer of Cloak-lane, now
graveyard. St John Evangelist in Watling-street, comer of Friday-street, now graveyard. St.
John Zachary, comer of Silver-street Falcon-square, now graveyard. St. Laurence Pountney, on Lau-
rence Pountney-hill, now graveyard. St. Leonard's, Eastoheap, now eraveyard. St Leonard,
Foster-lane, the graveyard part of the site of the General Posf Office. St. Margaret Moses, in Passlnir-
alley, late a burym^ground, now Little Friday-street. St Margaret New FiEh-street church and burial
ground, where the Monument now stands. 8t Martin Pomeroy, in Ironmonger-lane, on part of the
ground now the graveyard. St Martin Orgar, in St Martln's-lane, where there is now a French Church,
bt Martin's Yintiy, College-hfll, Thames-street now graveyard. St. Mary Bothaw, in Tumwhcel-
lane, now graveyard. St Mary Colechurch, in Old Jewry, where the Mercenr Hal Iwas, and Frederick-
place now is. St Mary Magdalen, Milk-street, and ground, where part of Honey-lane Market now stands.
St. Mary Mounthaw, on Labour-in-vain-hill, now graveyard. St. Mary Staining, on the north side of
Oat-lane, on a part of the gravevard remaininff, opposite Titus Gates' House, now pulled down. St Mary
Woolchurch and graveyard, where the Mansion House now stands. St. Michael-le-Queme, near Pater-
noster-row, in Chrapside, where a conduit formerly stood. St. Nicholas Aeons, in Nicholas-lane, now
gravevard. St. Nicholas Olave, in Bread-street-hill, now grav^ard. St Olave, Silver-street, south side
of Noble-street now graveyard; under part of which some remains of the church have been discovered.
St Pancras Soper lane, in Pancras-lane, near Queen-street where is the graveyard. St. Peter Cheap,
comer of Wood-street, Cheapeide, where the graveyard still remains, and where the plane-tree still
flouibhes. on which the rooks, till lately, annually built their nests. St Peter Paul's-wharf, at the
bottom of Peter's-hill, Thames-street now graveyard. St Thomas the Apostle, now graveyard, comer
of Cloak-lane. The Holy Trinity church, where there is now a Lutheran church, comer of Little Trinity-
lane. St. Christopher-le-Stocks church, in Threadneedle-street pulled down in 1781, for the enlarge-
ment of the Bank of England.
Pepys records this odd circumstance conceming the London churches destroyed in the Great Fire :
" January 7th, 1667-8. It is observed, and is tme, m the late Fire of London, that the lire bumed just as
many parish churches as there were hours from the beginning to the end of the fire ; and next that
there were just as many churches left standing in the rest of the City that was not burned, being, I
think, thirteen in all of each; which is pretty to observe."
Sir Christopher Wren built, besides St. PauPs and the western towers of West-
minster Abbey, fifty churches in the metropolis, at sums varying from less than 2900/.
to upwards of 15,000/. In "Gothic," or, as Wren proposed to call it, "Saracenic,"
architecture, he was certainly not a succeissful practitioner ; although in the adaptation
of a steeple (a form peculiar to Pointed architecture) to Roman buildings, he has mani-
fested much ingenuity, and produced some light and graceful forms of almost endless
variety. Tliis may be seen by reference to Mr. Cockerell's picturesque grouping of the
principal works of Wren, the drawing of which was exhibited at the Eoyal Academy in
1838, and has been engraved in line by Richardson.
In the reign of Queen Anne were built or commenced eleven churches. In
the next two reigns were completed three large churches, each distinguished by
a noble Corinthian portico: viz., St. George's, Bloomsbury; St. Martin's-in-thc-
Fields ; and St George's, Hanover-square. With the exception of St. Feter-le-Poor
CHUBCHJS8 AND CHAPELS. 103
(1791) and ^t. Hartan's Oatwich (1796) not one church was boilt from the com-
f moKement of the reign of George III. nearly to the Regency, an interval of more
tlon half a century. The two Grecian orders, Doric and Ionic, were then adopted in
efai]Tcii.biiilding ; this pseudo classic-style was superseded hy the Old English of various
' periods. The increase of churches did not> however, keep pace with the population ;
thcn^ the appeals to the puhlic fotr funds were, in some instances, answered with rare
nninifieaioe. Thiis, in the suhscription-llst in 1836 for hnilding new churches we find
ibe foDowing donaticm : "A clergyman seeking for treasure in heaven, 5000^."
In 1839, Lord John Russell stated in Fkrliament, that in Loudon there were 3i
paHdies, with a population of 1,170,000, and church accommodation for only 101,000;
>Bd in tiiese 34 parishes were only 69 churches, and including proprietary chapels, only
100 places of worship in the whole ; whereas, if we allot a church to every 3000, there
oi^ht to he 379, leaving a deficiency of 279. In the following year, 1840, the Bishop
of London remarked to the House of Lords : —
" If Toa proceed a mile or two eastward of St. PaoTa, yoa will find yourself in the midst of a popo-
aiua themoct wretched and destitate of mankind, ooofisting of artifloen, laboaren, beggari; and thleres,
totbe amount of 300,000 or 400,000 sools I Tbroogbont this entire quarter there is not more than one
<^meh for 10,000 inhabitants; and in one^ nay in two districts, there is bat one choreh for 46,000
aws."
The Rev. Dr. Camming next stated that in a radius of eight miles around St. Paul's
tWe was a popnlation of two millions, ^ whom not more than 60,000 were com-
manicants in any church or chapel whatever. Instead of five-eighths, or 1,300,000»
of the population being church-goers, the greatest extent of attendance at any place of
vordiip did not exceed 400,000, and not more than 600,000 could be accommodated.
Is a small district of Covent Gkutien there were 354 houses : 338 were of the most
vretched description ; these contained 1216 individuals, of whom only 134 attended
charch ; and in that small locality there were no fewer than 44 shops regularly open
on the Sabbath. In some cases there was a population of 100,000 in the x^rish, with
only one rector and one curate. The above startling statistics led to a " Metropolis
lurches Fund,'' established in 1836, by which means several churches have been built
■nd provided for.
TLe great nnmber of the City churches is, however, now disproportionate to its
J«qnircment8. In 1834^ Mr. Lambert' Jones stated in the Court of Common
Coand], that the population of the City had within a century decreased one-half;
that the number of inhabitants did not then exceed 53,000, and for them were 66
churclies. The population of the City may now be set down at 55,000, for whom there
' ai« 60 churches, a proportion very different to that which exists in other parts of the
I metropolis. At St. Mildred's, Poultry, on a Sunday morning, there has been only .
0D6 penon to form a congregation, and there was, consequently, no service. By a
Parliamentary return, the largest income is 20817. 9s. Ad,, for St. Botolph, Bishops-
gate; and the smallest but one is 40/., fi>r St. Helen, Bishopsgate. In one church
(St. Laurence Jewry and St. Mary Magdalen, Milk-street), with sittings for 1000
psnons, the average attendance is only 30. At another church, with 700 uittings, the
Average attendance is 30. In 1853, the congregations were, in some cases, below 16,
*Qd in many under 50 : average about 33. Various remedies have been proposed, as
the union of benefices, and the removal of churches to iU-provided parishes. " The
BUhop of London's Fund" has been formed. In the 211 parishes of the metropolis
there are nearly 1,000,000 persons for whom the Church of England ought eventually
to provide, which is sought to be done by raising a fund of 3,000,0002.
** O&e of the most important movements of onr time originated In the late Bishop of London's senst
of the great chprch destitution oheervable principally in the Bethnal-green district, which became even
at the outset metropolitan. It has resulted op to the present time ui the erection, and more or less
complete endowment, of no leas than sevens-eight new churches in and near London, at a cost of more
than hair a millimi ; independently of seven new churches, the entire erection and endowment of which
^ seren separate individnals (one beins the Bishop himself), ia wholly attributable to the impulse de-
nred from the appeal made to the public on the first formation of the Metropolitan Churches Fund,
"^ia ia a great acnievemen^ and It will go down in hiatonr a lasting honour to Bishop Blomfield's name.
^et H is remarkable that the first publication of this great design very nearly coincided in point of time
^th that of the publication of the first Trad* for ihs Tim4t ; and ita success was most materially aided
br the monificent zeal with which Dr. Pnaey, in particular, and the then Oxlbrd residents generally, the
Tnust'irritera and their friends, took it up and forwarded it; but it was the Bishop's oonoeptioa and
exeeation."— Tlei
104 CURIOSITIES OF LONDON.
OLD SAINT PAUL'S.
THE present Cathedral of St. Paul is the third church dedicated to that sunt, and
bnilt very nearly npon the same site. The first church was founded about
A.D. 610, by Ethelbert, King of Kent, but destroyed by firo in 1087. Its rebuilding
was commenced by Bishop Maurice, whose successor completed the enclosing walls,
which extended as far as Fatemost^r-row and Ave Maria-lane, on one side ; and to Old
Change, Carter-lane, and Creed-lane on the other. This second churcli, " Old Saint
Paul's," was built of Caen stone : it was greatly injured by fire in 1137; but a new
steeple was finished in 1221, and in 1240 a choir. The entire edifice was 690 feet
long, and 130 feet broad ; and its tower and spire rose 520 feet, or 116 feet higher
than the spire of Salisbury Cathedral ; 64 feet loftier than that of Vienna ; 50 feet
higher than that of Strasburg; surpassing the height of the Great Pyramid of Egypt;
and higher than the Monument placed upon the cross of the present Cathedral. It
had a bowl of copper-gilt, 9 feet in compass (iarge enough to hold 10 bushels of com),
supporting a cross 15|f feet high, surmounted by an ** eagle-cock of copper-gilt, 4 feet
long." In 1314, the cross fell ; and the steeple of wood covered with lead, being
ruinous, was taken down, and rebuilt, with a new gilt ball. The French Cbronide
notices this reparation, and describes the extraordinary relics which were found in the
old ball, and replaced, with additions, in the new one. In 1444, the steeple was nearly
destroyed by lightning, and not repaired till 1462. In 1561, the Cathedral was partly
burnt, but was restored in 1566, except the spire, which was never rebuilt. Heylin,
in his Cosmography f says of the above catastrophe : —
"It was by the earelessncBs of the sexton consamed with fire, which happening in a thnnderingr and
tempestuous dav, was bT him confidently aflSrmed to be done by lightning, and was so generally believed
till the hour of his death ; but not many years since, to disabuse the world, he confessed the truth of it,
on which discovery, the burning of St. Paul's steeple by lightning was left out of our common almanacks,
where formerly it stood among the ordinary epoclis or accounts of time."
The church was of the Latin cross form, with a Lady chapel at the east end, and
two other chapels, St. George's north, and St. Dunstan's south. At tlie eastern
extremity of the churchyard stood a square clocher, or bell-tower, with four bellsf
rung to summon the citizens to folkmotes held here. These bells belonged to St.
Faith's under St. Paul's, a church so situated, but demolished about 1256, when part
of the crypt beneath the Cathedral choir was granted to the parishioners for divine
service. Hence the popular story in our time of there being a church under St. P&urs,
and service in it once a year. At the south-west comer was the parish church of St.
Gregory. Fuller wittily describes Old St. Paul's as being " truly the mother- church*
having one babe in her body — St. Faith's — and another in her arms — 6t. Gregory's.*'*
On the south side of the Cathedral, within a cloister, was a chapter-house, in the
Pointed style ; and on the north, on the walls of another cloister, next to the charnel-
house, was a " Dance of Death," orv as Stow calls it, " Death leading all Estates*
curiously painted npon board, with the speeches of Death, and answer of every Estate,"
by John Lydgate. It was painted at the cost of John Carpenter, Town Clerk of
London, temp, Henry V. and VI.
On spedal saints' days it was customary for the choristers of the Cathedral to
ascend the spire to a great height, and there to chant solemn prayers and anthems :
the last observance of this custom was in the reign of Queen Mary, when, " after
even-song, the quere of Paules began to go about the st«ep1e singing with lightes*
after the olde custome." A similar tenure-custom is observed to this dikj at Oxford*
on the morning of May 1, on Magdalen College tower.
Camden relates, that on the anniversary of the Conversion of St. Paul, January 25,
held in the church, a fat buck was received with great formality at the choir entrance
by the canons, in their sacerdotal vestments, and with chaplets of flowers on their ,
heads ; whilst the antlers of the buck were carried on a pike in procesmon round the
edifice, with horns blowing, &c. On the buck being ofifcred at the high altar, one
sMlling was paid by .the Dean and Chapter.
CmmCHE8-0LD SAINT PAUL'S. 105
■
SL Baude, in lien of twenty-two acres, bequeatbed a fat doe in winter, and a buck
in sammer, which was received at the altar crowned with roses by the chapter
annually, till the reigpi of Elizabeth.
On the north side near the east end stood PauVs or Vowli/'a Cross, with a pulpit
whence sermons were preached, the anathema of the Pope thundered* forth, heresies
recanted, and sins atoned for.
The CroM wu hexa^nal in form ; of wood, raffed on stone steps, with a canopy covered with lead,
on which was elevated a cross. Stow could not ascertain its date : we first read of it in 1269, when,
bj command of Henry III., striplings were here sworn to be loyal : and in the same year the folkmote
Commoo Hall assembled here by the tolling of St Paul's great bell. At preaching the commonalty sat
in the open air ; the king, his train, and noblemen in covered galleries. All preachers coming from a
distance had an allowance fh>m the Corporation, and were lodged during five days " in sweete and con-
Trnieut lodgings, with fire, candle, and all necessary food." Bishop Northburgh lent small sums to
citixcDS on pledge, directing that if at the year's end they were not restored, then that '*the preacher
at Paul's Cross should declare that the pleage, within fourteen days would be sold, if unredeemed." An
earthooake overthrew the Cross hi 1382 j it was set up again by Bishop Kemp in 1449.
Ralph Baldoc, Dean of Paul's, cursed from the Cross all pe{sons who had searched in the church
cf St. Jiartin'S'in-the- Fields for a hoard of gold. In 1483, Jane Shore, with a taper in one hand, and
arrayed in her **kerteU onelje," did open penance at the Cross. In the same year, Dr. Shaw and Friar
Pinke aided the traitorous schemes of Diue Richard; the preacher took for his text these words,
** Bastard slips shall never take deep root." Stow inPorros us that the Doctor so repented his " sharoellif
sermon " that it struck him to the heart, and " within a few days he withered and consumed away."
Friar Pinke lost his voice while preaching, and was forced to leave the pulpit. Royal contracts of mar-
riage were notified from the Cross. Henrv YIII. sent preachers to the Cross every Sunday to preach
*k>wn the Pope's authority. In 1538, Bishop Fisher exposed at the Cross the famous rood of grace
fri'm Boxle^ Abbey. From his attendance there, as a preacher, Richard Hooker dated the miseries
cf hto married life. Queen Maij caused sermons to be preached at .the Cross in pnise of the old
religion, bat they occasioned aenous liots.
The Cross was pulled down in 1643, by order of Parliament ; its site was long
denoted by a tall ehn tree.
The interior of the church was divided throughout by two ranges of clustered
colnnins ; it had a rich screen, and canopied doorways ; and a large painted rose-
window at the east end. The walls were sumptuously adorned with pictures,
shrines, and curiously wrought tabernacles; gold and silver, rubies, emeralds, and
pearls glittered in splendid profusion ; and upon the high altar were heaped countless
stores of gold and silver plate, and illuminated missals. The shrine of St. Erkenwald
Jthe fourth bishop), at the back of the high altar, had among its jewels a sapphire,
believed to cure diseases of the eye. The mere enumeration of these treasures fills
twenty -eight pages of Dugdale's folio history of the Cathedral. King John of France
offered at St. Erkenwald's shrine ; King Henry III. on the feast of St. Paul's Conver-
sion, gave 1500 tapers to the church, and fed 15,000 poor in the garth, or close.
There are several notices of miracles said to have been wrought in St. Paul's at "n
tablet," or pictiure, set up by Thomas Earl of Lancaster, who, after his execution at
Ponte&act, was reckoned a martyr by the populace. The tablet was removed by royal
order, bat replaced a few years later. At the base of one of the pillars was sculp-
tured the foot of Algar, the first prebendary 'of Islington, as the standard measure for
legal contracts in land, just as Henry I., Richard I., and John, furnished the iron ell
by their arms. On the north side of the choir, " on whose monument hung his proper
helmet and spear, as also his target covered with horn " {DugdcUe), stood the stately
tomb of John of Gaunt, Duke of Lancaster, and Blanche, his first wife. In St.
Bunstan's chapel was the fine old tomb of Henry Lacy, Earl of Lincoln, from whom
Lincoln's Inn derives its name. In the mid<Ue aisle of the nave stood the tomb of
Sir John Beauchamp, constable of Dover Castle, and son to Guy Beauchamp, Earl
of Warwick. Between the choir and south aisle was a noble monument to Sir Nicholas
Bacon, fitther of Lord Chancelbr Bacon ; and *' higher than the post and altar,"
{Bitkop C&rbet), between two columns of the choir, was the sumptuous monument of
i>ir Chrifltopher Hatton ; and near it was a tablet to Sir Philip Sidney, and another to
Iiis fatber-in-law. Sir Francis Walsingham, The stately appearance of Hatton's monu-
meot and the plainness of Walsingham's and Sidney's tablets, gave rise to this epigram
by old Stow : —
"Philip and Francis have no tomb,
For jreat Sir Christopher takes all the room."
106 CURIOSITIES OF LONDON.
In the south able of the choir were the tomhs of two of the Deans ; Golet the
foonder of Paul's school, a recumhent skeleton ; and Dr. Donne, the poet» standing
in his stony shroud : the latter is preserved in the crypt of the present Cathedral. In
a vault, near John of Gannfs tomh, was huried Van Dyck ; hut the outbreak of the
wars under Charles I^ prevented' the erection of any monument to his memory. The
state obsequies were a profitable privilege of the Cathedral : the choir was hung with
black and escutcheons ; and the horses were magnificently adorned with banner-rolls
and other insignia of vaingloiy.
The floor of the chur(^ was liud out in walks : " the south alley for usurye and
poperye ; the north for simony and the horse-fiEdr ; in the midst for all kinds of bar-
gains, meetings, brawlings, murthers, conspiracies, &c." The middle aisle, " Pervyse of
PaulV' or " Paul's Walk," was commonly called "Duke Humphrey's Walk," from Sir
John Beauchamp's monument, unaccountably called " Duke Humphrey's Tomb," being
the only piece <k sculpture here ; and as this walk was a lounge fbr idleis and hunters
after news, wits and gallants, cheats, usurers, and knights of the post^ dinnerless per-
sons who lounged there were said to dine wUh Duke Humphrey, Here " each lawyer
and Serjeant at his pillar heard his client's cause, and took notes thereof upon his
knee." (Dugdale's Grig. Jnrid,) Here masterless men, at the Si quis door, set up
their bills for service. Here the font was used as a counter for payments. Hero spur
money was demanded by two choristers from any person entering the Cathedral
during divine service with spurs on. Hither Fleetwood, Recorder of London, came
"to leam some news" to convey by news-letter to Lord Burghley. Ben Jonson has
laid a scene of his Uvery Man out of his Humour in "the middle aisle in Paule's ;"
Captain Bobadil is a " Paul's man;" and Falstaff bought Bardolph in Paul's. Greene^
in his Theevee Falling Out, ^c, says : " Walke in the middle of Paul's, and gentlemen's
teeth walk not faster at ordinaries, than there a whole day together about enquiry
after news." Bishop Earle, in his Microeosmographia, 1629, says : " Paul's Walk is
the Land's Epitome, or you may call it the lesser lie of Great Brittcune. • • • • The
noyse in it is like that of Bees, in strange hummings or buzze, mixt of walking,
tongues, and feet; it is a kind of still roare, or loud whisper." It was a common
thoroughfare for porters and carriers, for ale, beer, bread, fish, flesh, fardels of stufl*,
and "mules, horses, and other beasts;" drunkards lay sleeping on the benches at the
choir-door ; within, dunghills were sufiered to accumulate ; and in the choir people
walked *' with their hatts on their heddcs." Dekker, in his OuWe Hornbook, tells
us that the church was profaned by shops, not only of booksellers, but of other trades,
such as " the semster's shops," and " the new tobacco office." So great had the
nuisances become, that the Mayor and Common Council in 1554, prohibited, by fine,
the use of the church for such irreverent purposes.
The desecration of the exterior of the church was more abominable. The chantry
and other chapels were used for stores and lumber, as a school and a glazier's work-
shop; parts of the vaults were occupied by a carpenter, and as a wine-cellar; and the
cloisters were let out to trunkmakers, whose '* knocking and noyse" greatly disturbed
the church-service. Houses were built against the outer walls, in which closets and
window-ways were made : one was used " as a play-house," and in another the o>\'ner
" baked his bread and pies in an oven excavated within a buttress ;" for a trifling fee,
the bell-ringers allowed wights to ascend the tower, halloo, and throw stones at the
passengers beneath. The first recorded Lottery in England was drawn at the west
door in 1569. Dekker describes " Paul's Jacks," automaton figures, which struck the
quarters, on the clock. We read, too, of rope-dancing feats from the battlements of
St. Paul's exhibited before Edward VI., and in the reign of Queen Mary, who, the day
before her coronation, also witnessed a Dutchman standing upon the weathercock of
the 8teeple> waving a five-yard streamer ! Another marvel of this class was the ascent
of Bankes, on his famous horse Marooco, to the top of St. Paul's, in the year 1600, to
the delight of " a number of asses" who brayed below. The steed was '* a middle-
sized bay English gelding,'* and Bankes was a vintner in Cheapside, and had taught
his horse to count and perform a variety of feats. When the novelty had somewhat
lessened in London, Bankes took his wonderful horse to Paris, and afterwards to
CmmCEE8—8T. PAUL'S CATHEDRAL. 107
Rome. " He bad better bave stayed at borne, for botb he and bis borse (wbicb wa»
shod with silver) were burnt for witchcraft." (Ben Jonson's Epigrams,) Shakspeare
^Hndesto ** the dancing borse" (Lovers Lahour Losi) ; and in a tract called Maroccus
ExtaHcuMy qtc, 159S, there is a mde woodcat of tiie unfortonate juggler and hia
Aiinoas geJ^ng.— -Cunningham's Jlartdbook.
Sereral attempts were made to restore the Cathedral ; and money* Stow says, was
collected for rebuilding the steeple ; but no effectual step for the repairs was taken
until 163d, when Inigo Jones, to remove the desecration from the nave to the ex-
terior, built, it 18 stated at the expense of Charles I., at the west end, a Corinthian
portico of eight columns, with a balustrade in panels, upon which he intended to hav&
placed ten statues : this portico was 200 feet long, 40 feet high, and 50 feet deep;
bat its dasBc deagn, affixed to a Gothic church, must be condemned, unless it be con-
sidered as an instalment of a new cathedral. Laud was then Bishop of London. The
sum collected was 101,830/. ; and the repairs progressed until about one-third of the-
mcney was expended, in 1642, when they were stopped by the contests between
Charles and bis people : the funds in band were seized to pay the soldiers of the-
Commonwealth, and Old St. Paul's was made a horse-quarter for troops.
Shortly after the Restoration, the repaira were resumed under Sir John Denham ;
and " that miracle of a youth," Wren, drew plans for the entire renovation. A com-
mission was appointed, but before the funds were raised, the whole edifice was destroyed
in the Great Fire :^-
"The daring flames peep'd iii,snd saw from bs
* The awfUi beauties of the laered quire;
But since it was profiin'd by civil war,
Hcav'n thonght it fit to have it porg'd bj fire."
DryeUn'i Annua JfirahiUi,
Evelyn thus records the catastrophe :—
** I waa infinitely concerned to find that goodly church, St. Paul's, now a sad ruin, and that beaatifhl
portico (for atmctare, coronarahle to any in Europe) now rent In pieces, flakes of vast stone split asunder,,
but nothing remaining entire but the inscriptions, showing by whom it was built, which nod not one
letter defaced. It was astonishing to see what immense stones the best liad in a manner calcined, so
that all the ornaments flew ofl^ even to the Tery roof, where a sheet of lead coTering a great space waa
totally melted. The lead over the altar at the east end was untouched, and among the monuments the
body of ofoe bbhop remained entire."
According to Dugdale^ this was the corpse of Bishop Braybrooke, which bad been
inhumed 260 years, being " so dried up, the flesh, sinews, and skin cleaving fkst to th&
bones, that being set upon the feet it stood as still as a plank, the skin being tough
like leather, and not at all inclined to putrefaction, which some attributed to the
tauctUy of the person offering much money."
In the Great Fire the church was reduced to a heap of ruins ; and books valued at
150,0002., which bad been pkoed in St. Faith's (the crypt) for safety by the stationers
of Pktemoster-row, were entirely destroyed. After the Fire, Wren removed part of
the thick walls by gunpowder, but most he levelled with a battering-ram ; some of the
stone was used to build parish churches, and some to pave the neighbouring streets.
Tradition tells that Serjeants' Inn, Fleet-street, being then ecclesiastical property, was
not forgotten in the distribution of the remains of Old St. Paul's ; and there remained
to onr day a large number of blocks of Purbeck stone, believed to have formed part of
the old CithedraL
The west end of the old church was not taken down till 1686. In the same year a
p^eat quantity of old alabaster was beaten into powder for making cement. Those
fragments were, doubtless, monumental effigies or other ornaments of the old church.
In 1688 the tower was pulled down, and 162 corpses taken from its cemetery and re-
buried at the west end of the old foundation, at 6d, each.
ST. PAUL'S CATHEDRAL.
NEARLY dght yean dapsed after the Great Fire ere the ruins of the old Cathedral
were cleared from the site. Meanwhile, Wren was instructed " to contrive a
fabric of moderate bulk, but of good proportion ; a convenient quire, with a vestibule
and porticoei^ and a dome conspicuous above the houses." A design was accordingly
prepared, octagonal in plan, with a central dome and cupolettas, and affording a vast
103 CURIOSITIES OF LONDON.
number of picturesqne combinations, ■■ ihown in tbe model, preserved to thia day. Jt
a of wood, and some 10 foot in bei^lit to the summit of the domej it i> tbus large
enough to walk bodily into it. Wren aimed at a design antique and well studied, con-
ibrmable to tbe best atyle of the Greek and Boman arcLitecture. The model js acca-
rotely wrought, and carved with all its proper ornaments, consisting of one order, the
Corinthian onlf. Tbe model, after tbe finishing of tbe new fabric, whs depoaited over
the Morning Prayer Cbapel, on tbe north side. Wren's model had neither side aisles
DOT oratories, though they were afterwards added, because as Spencc, in bis A.aeedolf^,
imagineB,'the Duke of York (James 11.) considered side aisles would bean absolute
necessity in n cathedral wliece he hoped the Rominh ritual would soon be practised.
These innovations sadly marred the uniformity of tbe original design, and when de-
cided upon, drew tears of vexation from tbe arcbitect. He vhs paid 160 guineas only
for the model. The Surveyor ncit devised "a cathedral form, so altered as to recon-
cile, as near as poauble, the Gothic to a better manner of architecture ;" which being
approved, Charles II. issued
,- — ' ^( liis warrant for commeno-
' ing the works May 1, 1675.
Id digging the foundation,
> vast cemetery was dig-
covered, in which Britons,
Bomans, and Saiona Iiad
bef n successively buried ;
and on digging deeper,
marine ihells were found,
tbus proving that the tea
once JUiaed over the eite
of the preient cathedraL
~^-'~.__ , ^,...' Wren did not, bowever,
"' find any remans to sQpport
RoliliTOpofiiiuMorihoOldainISeirCithedrals, the tradiUon of a Roman
temple to Diana having once occnpicd this spot. The accompanyijig groond-plan shows
the relative positions of the Old and New Cathedrals.
The first stone of the new churcli was laid June 21, 1675, by tbe nrehitect and his
lodge of Freemasons ; and the trowel and mnllet then used are preserved in the Ijodge
of Antiquity, of which Wren was master. The mallet has a ulver plate let into the
beadi aud it bears this inscription: —
" B; Order of the H. W. the Gnnd UisltT,
His Bqrra Hishams th* Duke of Suuei, &r., Ac,
sad W. Uuter of the Lodn of AntlqaUy.
aaJ with the Conmneiwe of the Brethren ot th
Worslilptul Mister of the I.od^,
Portland stone liad been selected, principally on account of the large scantlings
procurable from those quarries, and yet no blocks of more tlian fonr feet in diameter
could bo procured. This led to the choice of two orders of areliitecture, with au attic
story like that of St. Peter's at Itome, that the just proportions of the cornice might
be preserved.
In commencing the works. Wren accidentally set out the dimensions of the dome
upon a piece of a gravestone inscribed SesaTgaai (1 shall rise agnin) ; which pro-
pitious circumstance is commemomted in a Phmnix rising from the flames, with tlie
motto Rtmrgam, sculptured by Cibber in the pediment over t^ southern portico.
In 1678 WroD set out the piers and pendotitives of the dome.
CnURCHSS—ST. PAUL'S CATHEBBAL. 109
, Hlth Bii Chililopliar Vina, Imed the roUoiiiDg mj
-_ — , „ , , — =—- J of nnariiiir li loo frtqomtl/ IwiTd, (o the
i^^aa al God aDd omilcinpt of aathortt^ i ud to tha end, IbereAirr, that lach Ifopieti nui b<
-")jba<idwd fromtheie work* latnded (nr UMMrrtg* ot Owl and Ibe homnror rUkIoii. ft b
111 etutanUT nroaring ahaill ^*nlBcl(_. ..
be deA of the irorka, upon (nBdent proot
irklBf bj taak, ahall not upoa admonJuon. n
thall dtHDlJa than artDnJln)Tlr.
Bi 16S5, the walla of the chrnr and its aide aiales. and the north nnd aouth lemi-
, ^inlar porticoei, were Bnlshed ; the pien of the dome WEre alao bronght up t« Ifaa
■me bright. On Dec. 2. 1697, thethirir was opened on the day of Thank^rinp for
^^|«ace of Rjswiek, when Bishop Bamel preached before King William. On Feb. I,
'.f^'J. the Maming Prayer CbapeC "t the north.west ancle, wm opened j and in 1710
:« m of the mrchitect laid the last itane— the highest slab on ths top of the
Tbere ii a atrange story of a conspiracy against Queen Anne, who was to have been
rribal to death m St. Paul's ; (he acrews of soine part of the bnilding being loocenod
trfnbtnd for the parposo, and intended to be remoTed when she should oome to the
Lubednl, and thos averwlielm her in the falL
iluurtDarr
plot wDl be found hi Bojer'e Aw*alt «T 9w« Aont, Yioi. «, mil
'.J - ... ™».. 1...— -.._ .1... "if, gB[T«»rT SI. John bi
SmglJitd, p. 4U. The lattv itatei, that " Mr. SanvUrr :
_ 1 proob of tda fltneH En- It, hrlm-rfin- -» -.*"
- — •- — ' --red tha thnbnai
'-Mliof KiDie rrilKlaleiiina p«raoni baring niiaerewed the thnben oflhe wntnufof the cathedral.
;-3Uiiilbnndatlc>ii, Mrs. Abl^l Hiahain afflnned that the icmTi one IBlieD awar that Iheathe-
a.j miAl tomble npon the beiua of tha Court Do the Thankaglrioir-da;, whan It aaa nippo«d her
Jli.tij would bm gaatt thither. But npon InqnliT, It appeared that Iba mlailnit dT Ihr Iron pbitwaa
H'laztoihe nealect uf vtme workman, Kho thought the limber ■afBrienllj bateued without themj
I;, lilt foDUabnaaa, M well u malice, ofthiaadrertliaineit made people mora meir; than auKrj."
, Tlni, the whole edifice was finished in
iSnrtj.fiTe years ; -nnder ona architect, Sir
Chiiitflpher Wren ; one nuuter-niason, Mr.
^^■inias Strang ; and while one Bishop,
I>T. Benry Compton, occapied the see. For
la wnicea. Wren obtained, with difficuitj,
^y. per annum ! " and for this," said the
"iKbat of Marlbortjiigh, "be was content
Ui U dragged np in a basket three or fonr
'-Jia a week." The fund raised for the
>imMiag amounted, in ten yean, to
) 21>^,D0(U.; a new daty lud on coals for
'^ parpoae produced BOOOl. a year ; and
ite King CDlttxibnted 10,0002. annually.
Eilerior. — St. Panl's occofdcaTery nearly
ll^ ote of tlie old Cathedral, in the centre
lad most elevated part of the City ; though
biUghest point, the cmaa, ia 3G feet lower
'^n the Castle Tavern, on Hampitead
Uralh. TVie plan of tbe Cathedral is a Latin
' rns, and bears a general resemblance to
Ikt of St. Peter's. Its length, from the
na to the west wall, is BOO feet; north
Unatb, 250 feeti width, 125 feet, except
It the western end, where tno towcn, and
rtnpels beyond, make this, the principnl
bjnt, facing Lndgate-hill, about ISO feet
in iKidth. The chapels are, the Morning
I Prayer, north ; and the Coaalstory Court,
The exterior generally is of two orders, Groond Plon of St. Panre Cathedral.—*. (Tare,
lOU feet in height— the upper Compoait^ li.^'^^'dioir.'''"'"''^™"'"' "■^''"'
110 CURIOSITIES OF LONDON.
and the lower Corinthifin ; and the snr&ce of the church is Portland stone, rusticated
or grooved throughout. At the east end is a semicircular recess, oontuning the altar.
At the west end, a noble flight of steps ascends to a double portico of coupled
<x>lumn8, twelve in the lower, Corinthian ; and eight in the upper, Composite ; termi-
nated by a pediment, in the tympanum of which (64 feet long and 17 feet high) is the
Conversion of St. Paul, sculptured in pretty high relief by Bird ; on the apex is a
colossal figure of St. Paul, and on the right and left, St. Peter and St. James. Beneath
the lower portico are the doors, and above them a sculptured group, in white marble,
of St. Paul preaching to the Bereana. This double portico has been much censured:
Wren pleaded that he could not obtain stone of suffidcnt height for the shafts of one
grand portico ) *' but," says Mr. Joseph Gwilt, " it would have been far better to have
bad the columns in many pieces, and even with vertical joints, than to have placed one
portico above another." At the extremities of this front rise, 220 feet, two campanile
towers, terminating in open lanterns, *' covered with domes formed by curves of
contrary flexure, and not very purely composed, though, perhaps, in character with the
general fufadc." {OwilL) Each dome has a gilt pine-apple at the apex : the south
tower contains the dock, and the north is a belfry ; and in the west faces are statues
of the four Evangelists. At the northern and southern ends of the transepts, the lower
order, Corinthian, is continued into porticoes of six fluted columns, standing, in plan, on
the segment of a drcle, and crowned with a semi-dome. In the upper order are two
pediments, the south sculptured with the Phcenix, and the north w^ith the royal arms
and regalia; and on each side are five statues of the Apostles. The main building ts
surmounted with a balustrade, not in Wren's design, the obtrusion of which by the
Commissioners caused the architect to say : " I never dedgned a balustrade ; ladies
think nothing well without an edging."
The Cathedral was acientificaUy aeonred firom lightning, aoeording to the suggestion of the Boyal
Society, in 1769. The leven iron acroUa supporting the ball and croas are connected with other roda
(used merely as conductors), which unite tnem with several large bars descending obliquely to the
atone- work of the lantern, and connected by an iron ring with four other iron bars to the lead corcrinsr
of the great cupola, a distance of forty-eight feet; thence the communication is continued by the rain-
water pipes to the lead-coTcred roof, and thence by lead water-pipes which pass into the earth ; thus
completing the entire communication firom the cross to the ^und, partly through iron and partly
through lead. On the dock-tower a bar of iron connects the pme-apple at the top with the iron stair-
case, and thence with the lead on the roof of the church. The bdl-tower is similarly protected. Dy these
means the metal used in the building is made available as conductors ; the metal employed merely for
that purpose bdng exceedingly small in quantity.— (Jiaief, Sepi, 8, 1842, abridgtd.)
The height to the top of the cross is thrice the height of the roof, or 365 feet from
the ground, 356 from the floor of the church, and 375 from that of the crypts. In
most accounts the height is stated 404 feet, which may be taken from the bottom
of the foundations, or the level of the Thames. In height it stands third, exceeding
the Pantheon by 70 feet ; about equalling St. Sophia, but falling short of the Florence
eupola by 60 feet, and of St. Peter's by 150. — Weale's London, p. 186.
The following account of the constructive details is from Mr. Joseph Gwilt's
SncyclopcBdia of Architecture : —
*' The entrances from the transepts lead into vestibules, each communicating with the centre, and its
aisles formed between two massive piers and the walls at the bitersections of the transepts with tlic
choir and nave. The eight piers are Joined by arches springing fk-om one to the other, so as to fnrm an
octagon at their springing points ; and the angles between the arches, instead of rising vertically. Kcil
over as they rise and form pendentives, which lead, at their top, into a drcle on the plan. Above thU
a wall rises in the form of a truncated cone, which, at the height of 168 feet from the pavement,
terminates in a horizontal cornice, firom which the interior dome springy. Its diameter is 100 feet, and
it is 60 feet in height, in the form of a paraboloid. Its thickness Is 18 inches, and it is constructed uf
brickwork. From the haunches of this dome, 200 foet above the pavement of the church, another cone
of brickwork commences, 85 feet high^ and 94 feet diameter at the bottom. This cone is pierced with
apertures, as well for the purpose ofdiminishing its weight as for distributing light between it and the
outer dome. At the top it is gathered into a dome, in the form of a hyperboloid, pierced near the
vertex with an aperture 12 feet in diameter. The top of this cone is 285 ^eet from the pavement, end
carries a lantern 65 feet high, terminating in a dome, whereon a ball and faveline) cross is raised. The
last-named cone is provided with corbels, sufficient in number to receive the naromer-beams of the
external dome, which is of oak, and its base 220 feet from the pavement,— its summit being level wi'h
the top of the cone. In form it is nearly hemispherical, and generated by radii 57 feet in length, whcse
oentrcH are in a horizontal diameter, passing through its base. The cone and the interior dome arc
restrained in their lateral thrust on the supports by four tiers of strong iron chains (weighing 05 cwt.
8 org. 23 lbs.), placed in grooves prepared for their reception, and run with lead. The lowest of these
Is inserted in the masonry round their common base, and the other three at diflTerent heights on the
exterior of the cone. Externally, the intervals of the columns and pilasters are occupied by windows
and nlobea, with horizontal and semicircular heads, and crowned with pediments.
CmmOHE8--8T. PAUrS OATHEDBAL. Ill
* Over tlie inteneetion of Uie nave uid traoMmts for the external work, and for a height of 26 feet
aboT« tiie xoof of the drareh, a cjlindrical wall ruee, whose diameter is 146 ftet. Between it and the
lower ooidcal wall was a spsice, but at intervals they are oonneoted br cross walls. This cylinder is
^Ite plain, hut perforated oy two ooarses of rectangular apertures. On it stands a peristyle of thirty
coinnins <tf the Corinthian order, 40 feet high, indading bases and capitals, with a plain entablature
crowned by a balustrade. In this peristyle, every fourth intercolumnlation is filled up solid, with a
nichfe, ana connexion is provided between it and the wall of the lower cone. Vertically over the
base of that cone, above the peristyle, rises another cylindrical wall, appearing above the balustrade. It is
fgnamented with pUasters, oetween which are two tiers of rectangular windows. From this wall the
external dome springs. The lantern receives no support from it. It is merely ornamental, difiisrlng
entirely in that respect lh>m the dome of St. Peter's. Exteraally the dome Is of wood, covered with
lead 1 at its summit is The Oolden OalUrp (with gilt railing), where the lantern commences.
''The interior of the nave and ohdr are each designed wiw three arches longitudinally springing from
piers, strengthened, as well as decorated, on their inner fiioes by an entablature, whose cornice reigns
throaffbottt the nave and ehurch. Above this entablature, and breaking with it over each pilaster, is a
tall attie, from pn^eetions on which spring semicircular arc^ which are formed into oret doubUaux.
Between the last^ pendentives are formed, temunated by horizontal cornices. Small cupolas of less
heicfat than thdr semi-diameter, are formed above these cornices. In the upright plane spa^e on the
walis above the main arches of the nave, choir, and transepts, a eUrtttory is obtained over the attio
order, whose form is generated b7 the rising of the pendentives.*'
Mr. Wightwick, in a paper read to the Institute of British Architects, says :^
** It was by command of the Popish Duke of Tork, that the north and south diapels, near the west-
em end, were added, to the reduction of the nave aisles, and the lamentable injury of the return fronts of
the two towers, wUch therefore lost in apparent elevation, by becoming commingled with pieces of pro-
jecthkg fhcade on the north and south sides. Thus were produced the only defects in the longitudinal
frwnts of the church. The independence of the towers is destroyed ; their vertical emplians oblite-
rated ; and a pair of excrescences is the consequence which it wore well to cut away. All that could be
doie to dimimsh the evil was aocomplished; but no informed eye can view the perspective of the Cathe-
dral from tiie north-west or south-west, without seeing how no andiitecl^ who only admitted a
'variety of uniformities,' could have intentionally formed a distinct component in an exterior of other-
wise nnilbrm puts, by a tower having onlr one wing, and that, too, flusn with its foce I With this ex-
ception, the general mass of the cathedral is fiuiltless, i.e., as the result of a conciliation between the
ardiltwtra ftelingfor the Boman styles and his compelled obedience to the shape prescribed. With this
consideratiaai the grand building under notice must be judged. This it is which excuses the application
of the opper order as a mere screen to conceal the clerestory and flying buttresses ; for it must be ad-
mitted tfa^ uninterrupted altitude of the bulk, in the same plane, \b absolutely necessary to the sub-
structure of the m^estie dome, which is indeed the very crown of England's architectural glonr. The
four projectiooa which fill out the angles formed by the intersecting unes of the cross, finely buttress
up tbe mountain of masonry above : and the beauttfiol semicircular porticoes of the transepts still fur-
ther carry out the sentiment of stabuity.
" As to the dome in itself, it stands supreme on earth. The simple stylobate of its tambour ; its unin-
terrupted peristyle, charmingly varied by occasionally solid intervening masonir, so artfrdly masking
the bottn»s-work as to oommne at once an appearance of elegant lightness with the visible means of con-
fident security; all then, with each subsequently ascending feature of the composition, leave us to
wonder bow entidsm can have ever spoken in qiulified terms of Wren's artistic proficiency.
"The western front must be criticised as illustrating, in great measure, a Gothic Idea Romanized.
Instead of twin spires (as at Lichfield), we have two pyramidal piles of Italian detail ; instead of the
hiffb-pcinted gable between, we have the daasic pediment, as lofty as may be ; the coupled columns and
pUasters answer to the Gtothio buttresses ; and a minute richness and number of parts, with idcturesque
breaks in the entiJ>latures (though against the architect's expressed principles), are introduced hi com-
pUanee with the general aspect and vertical expression of the Gothic fii^ade."
The aacent to the Whispering (jrallery is hy 260 steps ; to the outer, or highest
Oolden Gallery, 560 steps : and to the Ball, 616 steps.
The lAhrary, in the gallery over the sonthem aisle, was formed by Bishop Compton,
whose portrait it oontahis. Here are aboat 7000 volumes, besides some manuscripts
belonging to Old St. Paul's. The room has some fine brackets, and pilasters ^vitU
flowers, ezquiately carved by Oibhons ; and the floor consists of 2300 pieces of oak,
parqnetted, or inlaid without nails or pegs. At the end of this gallery is a Oeomeirical
Siairease, of 110 steps, built hy Wren, for private access to the Library. In crossing
thence to the northern gallery, a fine view is gained of the entire vista of the Cathe-
dral from west to east. You then reach the Model Room, where are Wren's first
design for St. Paul's, and some of the tattered flags formerly suspended beneath the
dome. Returning to the southern gallery^ a staircase leads to the south-western cam-
panile tower, where is the Clock Room.
The Clock is remarkable for the magnitude of its wheeU, and fineness of works,
and cost 300Z. It was made by Lengley Bradley in 1708 : it has two dial-plates, one
south, the other west ; each is 51 feet in drcnmference, and the hour-numerals are
2 feet t\ niches in height. The minute-hands are 9 feet 8 inches long, and weigh
75 lbs. each ; and the hour-hands are 5 feet 9 inches long, and weigh 44 lbs. each.
The pendulum is 16 feet long, and the bob weighs 180 lbs. ; yet it is suspended by a
spring no thicker than a shilling : its beat is 2 seconds — a dead beat, 30 to a minute,
instead of 60.
112 CUBI08ITIE8 OF LONDON.
The Clock, " going eight days/' strikes the hour on the Oreat JSell,* saspended
about 40 feet from the floor : the hammer lies on the outside brim of the bell ; it has
a large head, weighs 145 lbs., is drawn by a wire at the back part of the clockwork,
and falls again by its own weight upon the bell. Tlie clapper weighs 180 lbs. The
hour gtmck by this clock has been heard, in the silence of midnight, on the terrace of
Windsor Castle. (See p. 45.) Below the Oreat Bell are two smaller bells, on which
the dock strikes the quarters : the larger of these weighs 24 cwt. 2 qrs. 25 lbs. : the
smaller, 12 cwt. 2 qrs. 9 lbs. The northern tower contains the bells tolled for prayers.
2%« Whispering Gallery is reached by returning towards the dome, and again
ascending. Here a low whisper, uttered on one side, may be distinctly heard at
the opposite mde, of the gallery. The phenomenon is thus explained by Dr. Paris : —
'* M shows tbo situation of the month of the speaker, and E that of
the ear of the hearer. Now since sound radiates in all directions, a part
of it will proceed directly from H to E, while other rays of it will proceed
from H to «, and from M to- c, Ac. ; but tiie ray that impinges upon w
will be reflected to E, while that which first touches g wlu be reflected
to y and from thence to E ; and so of all intermediate rars, which are
omitted in the fignre to avoid confusion. It is evident tnerefore, that
the sound at E will be ranch stronger than if it had proceeded immedi-
ately from H without the assistance of the dome ; for, in that case, the
rays at z and u would have proceeded in straight lines, and oonseqnenUr
could nerer have arrived at the point E."—FhUo9opky i» Sport made
Science in JSamut, p. 310.
The organ, built by Bernard Schmydt, in 1694^ at a cost of 2000/., was originally
placed upon the wrought-iron screen which separates the choir from the nave, where
it marred the full eflect of the imposing architectural merits of the edifice. From
Dr. Bimbault's devcr book on The Organ we learn that Sir Christopher Wren himself
was averse from placing it over the screen. There it is stated : —
" In consequence of the reputation which ' Father Smith' had acauired by these instruments, he
was made choice of to build an oraan for St Paul's Cathedral,-then in tne course of erection. A place was
accordingly fitted up for him in the Cathedral to do the work in, but it was a Ion? time before no could
proceed with it, owmg to a contention between Sir Christopher Wren and the Dean and Chapter. Sir
Christopher Wren wished the organ to be placed on one side of the choir, as it was in the old Cathedral,
that the whole extent and beauty of the building might be had at one view. The Dean, on the
contrary, wished to have it at the west-end of the choir ; and Sir Christopher, after using every effort
and argument to gain his pointy was at la»t obliged to vleld. Smith, according to his instructions^
began the organ, and when the pipes were finished found that the case was not spacious enough to con-
tain them all ; and Sir Christopher, tender of his architectural proportions, would not consent to let the
case be enlai^ed to receive them, declaring the beauty of the builmng to bo already ipoilt by the box
of whistles."
Steele suggested, in a paper in the Spectator, that the organ should be placed over
the great west entrance, and be constructed on so majestic a scale as to resound
throughout the whole of the Cathedral. It has been removed to the first arch ftciai
the altar on the north side of the choir, the position chosen by Wren himself, as
shown in a drawing lately discovered, and preserved among the Cathedral records. This
instrument, though deservedly regarded as a chef-d^anu>re at the time of its completion,
was singularly defident in most of the mechanical appliances for an easy and effective
performance now in vogue in organs of comparatively recent date. An enormous
organ, built for the Alhambra, Leicester-square, has also been placed in the south
transept : it is intended for the use of the Special Kvening Services, and the Annual
Services under the dome.
The MonutnefU* (exceeding forty) have been for the most part voted by Parliament
in honour of naval and military officers ; there are a few also to authors and artists,
and philanthropists. Bat, in general, while civil eminence has been commemorated in
Westminster Abbey, St. Paul's has been made a Pantheon for our heroes. At the
entrance of the choir is a colossal statue of John Howard, with an inscription bji^
Samuel Whitbread, this being the first monument erected in the church (1796) ; at a
corresponding point u a colossal statue of Dr. Johnson, the inscription by Dr. Parr :
both statues are by Bacon, B.A. : Howard with his keys, is oflen mistaken for St.
* The New Great Tom of Lincoln, cast in 1834, is 6 cwt. heavier than the Great Bell of St. Panra.
Its tone is generally considered to be about the same as that of St. Paul's, but sweeter and softer. Mr.
E. l\. Denison, however, *Hhinks St. Paul's for the best of the four large bells of England, though it is
the smallest of them, being about 6 tonti; while York is 12, Lincoln &|, and Oxford 7i, which last is a
Xttnorkably bad beU."~2V«a<w« om Clock wad Watch Uakhig, 1850.
CHURCHES,— 8T, PAUL'S CATHEDRAL. 113
Peter ; and Johnson, with his scroll, for St. PbuL Near Howard is a statue of Hallam,
the htstoriaii, by Theed. At opposite piers are stataes of Sir Joshua Reynolds, by
Fkxnian. R.A., and Sir William Jones, by Bacon, R.A. Under the great choir arch is
a monnment to Lord Nelson, by Flaxman ; the statue ia characteristic, but the figures
ahont the pedestal are ahsurd. Opposite is a monument to Lord Comwallis, by Kossi,
R^ : the Indian rirer gods are most admired. In the south transept are monuments
to Sir Ralph Abercrombie and Lord Collingwood, by Sir R. Westmaoott, R.A., and
to Lord Howe, by Flaxman, R.A.; statue of Lord Heathfield, by Rossi, R.A.;
monnment to Sir John Moore, by Bacon, RA.; statue of Sir W. Hoste, by Campbell ;
and Major-Gtencral Gillespie, by Chantrey, R.A. In the north transept, the principal
are monuments to Lord Rodney and to Captains Mosse and Riou, by Rossi, R.A. ;
Capt. Westcott, by Banks, RA. ; Gen. Ponaonby, a graceful composition, by Baily,
ILA. ; Major-Gen. A. Gore and J. B. Skerrett, by Chantrey, R A. ; statue of Earl St.
Vincent, by Buly, R. A. ; Gen. Pictoh, who fell at Waterloo, by Gahaghan ; Admiral
Duncan, an elegant fignre, by Sir R. Westmacott, RA. ; Major-Gen. Dundas, by Baoon,
R.A. ; and the Hon. Mountstuart Elphinstone, the historian of India, by M. Noble.
In the south aisle of the Nave is a montunent to Dr. Middleton, the first Protestant
Bishop of India, by Lough ; and in the south aisle of the Choir is a kneeling figure of
Bishop Heber, by Chantrey, R.A. Here also are two statues — Sir Astley Cooper, by
Baily, R.A. ; and Dr. Babington, by Behnes. Opposite is a statue of Admiral Lord
Lyons, by H. Noble. Two of the finest and most touching works here are Chantrey's
battle-piece monuments to Colonel Cadogan, mortally wounded at the battle of V ittoria ;
and Major-General Bowes, shun at the head of his men at the storming of Salamanca :
these are poetic pictures of carnage closing in victory. Near the great northern
entrance are statues, by G. G. Adams, of Sir Charles Naper, the hero of Sdnde ; and
Sir William Napier, the historian of the Peninsular War; and in the north aisle of
the Nave is the memorial to Viscount Itfelboume — ^two angels, sculptured by Marochetti.
The Crypt is now used only as a place of interment. In the south aisle, on tlte site of
the ancient high altar, is the grave of Sir Christopher Wren, covered by a fiat stone, the
English inscription upon wliich merely states that he died in 1723, aged 91 : suspended
on the adjoining wall is a tablet bearing the Latin epitaph :
Sabtns conditnr ht^os ecdeeis et
UrbfB conditor, Christopher Wren,
Qnl vizit aonos ultra nonamnta,
"Nod Bibi sed bono publico. Lector,
Si monamentum requiris,
CircumRpioe.
ObUt XXV. Feb., Anno MDOCXXIII., etat. 01.
Beneath Urn Chriatopber 'Wren, builder of this church and Citj, who lived upwards of nlnetj yean,
not for himaelf but for the public good. Beader, if thou wouldst eearch for bis monoment, look around.
Next Wren's remains are those of his son; and here is a tablet in memory of
bis granddaughter, aged 95 : Sir Christopher was 91, and his son 97. Here are the
graves of our great painters. It has been remarked : " if Westminster Abbey has its
^oety Comer, so has St. Paul's its JPaintert^ Comer, Sir Joshua Reynolds's statue, by
Flaxman, is here, and Reynolds himself lies buried here ; and Barry, and Opie, and
Lawrence are around him ; and, above all, the ashes of the great Van Dyck are in the
earth under tbe Cathedral." (C. S. Leelie, R.A,) On December 80, 1851, the
remains of J. M. W. Turner, our greatest landscape-painter, were laid next the grave
of Reynolds ; George Dance, the architect, and the last survivor of the original forty
of tbe Royal Academy, also lies here, with Fuseli ; and the Presidents, West, and
Martin Areher Shee. The grave of Dr. Boyce, next to Purcell, perhaps, the greatest
English mnncian, is also here ; with the altar-tombs of Robert Mylne, the architect of
the first BlackfHars Bridge; and John Reunie, who designed the present London
Bridge.
In the middle of the Crypt, under an altar-tomb, Jan. 9, 1806, were deposited the
remains of the great NelKm : they were placed beneath a black marble sarcophagus
made by order of Cardinal Wolsey, but left unused in the tomb-house a4j<uning St.
Ueorge's Chapel, Windsor. It is surmounted with a viscounfs coronet upon a cushion ;
on tbe pedestal is inscribed, " Horatio Viscount Nelson." The coffin, made from part
of tbe mainmast of the ship VOrientf which blew up at the battle of the Nile, was
Z
114 CURIOSITIES OF LONDON.
presented to Nelson by his friend Ben Hallowell, captain of the SwifUurg, Nelson's
flag was to have been placed with the coffin ; bnt jnst as it was abont to be lowered*
the sailors who had borne it, moved by one impulse, rent it in pieces, each keeping a
fragment. Lord CoUing^ood, as he requested, was laid near Nelson, beneath
a plain altar-tomb ; and opponte lies Lord Northesk, distingpiished at Trafalgar.
On the day of the funeral of the g^eat Duke of Wellington, Nov. 18, 1852, his
coffin was placed on the top of the sarcophagus wluch covered the remains of Nelson,
the coronet and cuMhion of the discount having been previously removed ; and here the
coffin of the Duke remained nearly two years, inclosed by a wood casing. The Duke's
coffin was then (m 1864) removed to the middle of a square chamber about forty feet
eastward, almost immediately under the entrance to the choir of the church, in which
compartment of the crypt no interment had previously taken place. Meanwhile, the
Duke's tomb was prepared from the design of Mr. Penrose, the conservating architect
of the CathedraL The material is porphyry, from Luxolyan in Cornwall, and a huge
block, originally weighing seventy tons. This has been sculptured into a grand and
simple sarcophagus form. Upon one side is inscribed " Arthur, Duke of Wellington ;*'
and on the opposite side, " Born May, 1769 ; died Sept. 14, 1852." At each end, and
upon the porphyry boss, is an heraldic ctobs, which, and the inscriptions, are in gold out-
line. The sarcophagus is placed upon a masrive basement of Aberdeen granite, and
at each comer is sculptured the head of a guardian lion. Within the sarcophagus is
deposited the rich coffin of the Duke, and upon it the coronet and cushion, and over
it the porphyry lid, hermetically sealed. The floor of this compartment of the crypt
is laid with Minton's tiles; and in each of the four angles is a candelabrum of
polished red granite^ surmounted by a ball, from which rise the gas-jets to light the
place. As you sttmd at the left-hand comer, looking westward, the sarcophagus of
Nelson is seen in the distance, and that of Wdlington in the foreground. This view
of the tombs of two of England's most illustrious heroes at one glance is impressive.
In another compartment of the Crypt is deposited the State Car upon whidi the bodj
of Wellington was conveyed to the cathedral at his funeral.
1. The Car and its eqatpmenta oonsiated of the coflSn at the summit, nncorered, and npon it the cap,
sword, &c. ; beneath a canopy of rich tissue, supported by halberds. 2. The bier, oorered with a black
laPii
velvet pall, diapered with the Duke's crest, and Field Manhal'sbiton acroai^ flrinsedwithlaard leaves^
and the legend ^ Blessed are the dead which die in the Lord,"— the whole worked m sliver. 3. The plat-
form of the car, inscribed with the names of the Duke's victories; and at the four ddes military
trophies of modem arms, helmets, suns, flsgs, and drnmi, real implements, fVimished byttie
Board of Ordnance. The whole is placed on a carriage richlv ornamented with bronze figures
of Fame, holding palms, panels of Fame, Uons' heads, and the Duke's arms. Attached to tiieCar ars
model hones three abreast, with velvet housings embroidered with the Duke's arms. The whole was
designed bv the Department of Practica] Art : its merits, were grandeur, solemnity, sad reality : coffin,
bier, trophies, and metal carriage, were all real. The public are admitted to see the tomb, and th»
flmorai car, for a small fee, to defrsy the expense of gaslights and attendsnts.
In June, 1859, the remuns of General Sir Thomas I^cton were removed from
the burial-ground of St. Oeorge's Chapel, Bayswater-road, to St. Paul's Cathe-
dral, and there deposited in the Crypt, nearly acljoining the tomb of Wellington.
The north aisle of the Crypt is appropriated to the parishioners of St. Faith,
as a place of sepulture, from whom the Dean and Chapter receive a trifling gratuity
for each body there interred. Beneath the semicircular apsis are deposited all that
remain of the monuments saved from the old cathedral.
The Inner Dome (which Wren intended to have lined with mosaic) is plastered on
the under side, and painted by Sir James Thomhill with events in the life of St. Paul :
1, His Conversion; 2, The Punishment of Elymas the Sorcerer; 8, Cure of the Cripple
at Lystra ; 4, Conversion of the Gaoler ; 5, Paul Preaching at Athens ; 6, Burning of
the Books at Ephesus ; 7, Paul before Agrippa ; 8, Shipwreck on the Isle of Melita.
For these paintings Thomhill received only 40s. per square yard ! Putting on one
side the vital error hi the general arrangement, whereby the endeavour is made by
painting to transform the cupola into a drum of upright walls, the pictures^ about 40
feet high, are works of merit, and the heads are painted with much force : the figures
are each from 14 to 16 feet high. In 1853, the restoration of the plaster-work, and
repainting of the pictures, were commenced by Mr. Parris,bv aid of shifting scaffolding
and platforms and wire-ropes, ingeniously constructed for the purpose; the medium
used by Mr. Parris being encaustic, his own " marble medium," and the tone of the
CEUBCHE8,—8T, PAUL'S GATEEBEAL. 115
pietores Mng mach hdghtened. This labonr occupied Mr. Plarris three years, slang
in an ftSrie at from 160 to 200 feet high. The paintings are heat seen from the
Whispering Gallery, by the flood of light which flows from the lantern through the
opening at the crown of the dome. When looking down into the church from this
point, men seem but as children* and the immensity of the structure is altogether best
fdt, Fnm the Whispering Gidlery we ascend to
The Sione OaUery, outside the base of the dome, where the gigantic height of the
figures (II feet) on the western pediment, and the outlines of the campanile towers,
are Teiy striking. There is a second outer gallery, still below the base of the dome ;
and thence you ascend to
The Outer €Mden Qallefy (regHt in 1845, at a cost of 68;.), at the summit of the
dcnne; the Inner Oolden Chllery being at the base of the lantern. Through this the
ascent Is by ladders, to the small dome immediately below the inverted consoles which
support
The BaU and Crose : ascending through the iron-work in the centre, we look
roto the dark BaU, which is 6 feet 2 inches in diameter, and will hold eight persons ;
its weight IS 5600 pounds : thence to the Cross is 39 feet; the Cross, which is solid, is
3360 pounds weight. The Ball and Cross have been renewed, and re-gilt within
thirty years from that date. In 1862 (Exhibition year), the vergers' receipts for
showing the Crypt and Ball, amounted to 1160/.
The Vtewfrom the Outer Golden Qallery is very minute: the persons in the
streets below " appear like mice ;" London seems little else than a dense mass of house*
tops^ chimneys, and spires ; the Thames being conspicuous from its glittering surface,
but the bridges appearing as dark lines across at intervals. Here, and at the higher
points, in dour weather, the metropolis is seen as in a map, with the country 20 miles
roand. The north diviaon of London rises gently from the Thames^ to Hampstead and
Highgate. On the east and west are fertile plains extencUng at least 20 miles, and
watered by the Thames. On the south the view is bounded by the high grounds of
RichmoDd, Wimbledon, Epsom, Norwood, and Blackheath ; terminating in the horizon
hf Letth HiU, Box Hill, and the Bdgate and Wrotham hills. Shooter's HiU is con-
spicooos eastward, and» in a more easterly direction, parts of Epping Forest and other
wooded uplands of Essex.
When Mr. Homer, in 1821-2, made his sketches for the Great Tiew of London,
painted at the Colosseum, he built for himself an observatory upon tlie Cross of St.
Panics. He describes the strange scene from this lofty summit at three o'clock in
the morning as very impresnve ; for here he frequently beheld " the Forest of London"
without any indication c^ animated existenoe. It was interesting to mark the g^dual
symptoms of returning life, until the rising sun vivified the whole into activity, bustle,
smd business. In high winds, the creaking and whistling of the scafTolding resembled
those of a sldp labouring in a storm ; and once Mr. Homer's observatory was torn from
its Ikstenings, and turned partly over the edge of the platform.*
Ckwrehyard, — ^The enclosed ground-plot of the Cathedral is 2 acres 16 perches 70
leet. In the area before the west front, marking the nte of St. Gregory's Church, is
the statue of Queen Anne, with figures, by Bird, of Britain, France, Ireland, and
at the comers of the pedestal. Garth wrote some bitter Unes upon this group :
" Fraaoe above with downoait eyes is seen.
The nd attendant of lo good a queen."
Her Majesty's nose was struck off by a lunatic, about a century ago, and was not repaired
for many years. The Churchyard is enclosed with a dwarf stone wall, on which is a
noble iron balustrade, 5 feet 6 inches high ; there are in it seven ornamental gates,
whidi, with the 2500 rails, weigh 200 tons 81 lbs. They were dengned by M.
Tljooe, and cast at Gloucwter Furnace, Lamberhnrst, in Kent ; they cost 6<2. per
pound, and with other charges, amounted to 11,202Z. Ot. 6({. The oost of the Church
* An aeddeot sonMwhai more perfloos beftl Mr. Owrn, when mesnirlng the top of the dome fora
Mctloii of the Csthedral. While intent on his work hie foot slipped, and he alid down the convex sar-
Utit of the dome nntU bJs deseent was Ibrtonaiely obetnicted pj a email prc^Jeothig piece of the lead.
llethni remained rnitil released from the impendteg danger I7 one of his assistants, who proridentiallj
aiMOfwed bis awfld sttoallon^ifr. Semtr^ SerreUv*
I 2
116 CUBI08ITIE8 OF LONDON.
was 736,762/. 28. 3(2. ; in all, 747,954/. 2», Qd., eqnal to 1,222,487/. present money.
Nine-tenths of this sum were nused by a tax on coals received into the port of
London.
The admission-fee originated in " the Stairs-foot Money," fixed by Jennings, tbe
carpenter, in 1707 ; the proceeds of which were applied to the relief of those men to
whom accidents happened during the progress of the works. In 1849, the sum received
from visitors to the body of the Cathedral, at 2d, each, was 430/. 8«. Sd,, which was
divided among the four vergers. This fee is now discontinued.
Nearly opposite the North Door of St. Paul's Churchyard is the Convocation or
Chapter House of the Cathedral, where a kind of clerical parliament is summoned
with every new Imperial Parliament. The Chapter is composed of a Dean and four
Canons, or Prebends, 12 Minor Canons, 6 Lay Vicars, and 12 Choristers. There
are 30 Prebendary Stalls, or Honorary Cauonries ; they are of great antiquity, having
been founded by Gregory the Great himself. Two of the brightest wits of thrar day,
the Rev. Sydney Smith (Peeer Plymley), d. 1845, and the Rev. R. H. Barham (2!&oma«
IngoldshfDy d. 1845, were at the same period Canons of St. Paul's. In 1849, the Rev. H.
H. Milman (the poet) was appointed Dean, an office hitherto held by the Bishop of Llau-
daff for the time being. The Lord Mayor's chaplain is the preacher on all State holi-
days; viz., 30th January, 29th May, 20th June, and 5th November, on the first
Sunday in term, and the anniversary of the Great Fire of 1666.
The State processions to St. Paul's have been very imposing. Queen Anne came
yearly to return thanks for the brilliant successes of Marlborough, who carried the
sword of state before Her Majesty; as did Wellington before the Prince Regent, on tbe
day of Thanksgiving for Peace in 1814. George III. went to St. Paul's, to return public
thanks for his recovery from derangement, in 1789 ; and in 1797, in Thanksgiving for
naval victories. The last procession of this kind was on Nov. 29, 1820, when Queen
Caroline went to St. Paul's in Thanksgiving for her deliverance firom the Bill of Pains
and Penalties.
The Cathedral is the scene of other impressive celebrations : as the Anniversary
Festival of the Sons of the Clergy, in May, preceded by sacred music by Handel, Boyce,
Atwood, and others, luded by the choirs of St. Paul's, Westminster Abbey, and the
Chapel RoyaL The great annual gathering of the Charity children, about 8000 in
number, is held here in June, the amphitheatre of seats being erected under the great
dome : the effect of the grouping of the children ranged in th^ rows of seats, tier
above tier, with the banners of their various schools placed in order in the uppermost
circle of the amphitheatre, is remarkably striking. The attendance of the Judges and
other law officers, and dvic authorities, is another impressive service.
" For external elegance," says Mr. Gwilt, " we know no church in Europe which
exhibits a cupola comparable with that of St. Paul's ; though in its connexion with the
church by an order higher than that below it, there is a violation of tbe laws of the art.
AVhile, notwithstanding its inferior dimensions Qt would stand within St. Peter's), the
external appearance of St. Paul's has been preferred by many to that of St. Peter's, it
is admitted by all that the interior of the English cathedral vrill bear no comparison
with that of the Roman. The upward view of the dome of St. Paul's, however, conveys
an impression of extraordinary magnificence : though not so elevated as St. Peter's, it
is still very lofty : the form of the concave, which approaches considerably nearer to
that of a circle — the height being equal to a diameter and a half, while in St. Peter's
it is equal to two diameters—has also been considered more beautiful than that of its
rival." The crossing of Ludgate Hill by a railway viaduct interferes materially with
the view of St. Paul's. Mr. Penrose, the architect, remarks : — " About 180 yards east-
ward of Temple Bar, the dome of St. Paul's begins to be seen, and, when fully opened
put a little further on, presents a combination, unsurpassed in Europe, with the exqui-
site campanile of St. Martin's and the suggested access to the Cathedral by the winding
street. It is true that the viaduct does not thus far hide any part of the Cathedral,
but it obtrudes itself on the sight, and destroys the spectator's pleasure in the view
almost as effectually. But from about 60 yards before reaching Farringdon-street it
actually hides more or less of the western facade, and gives in exchange nothing but its
deep sides and cavernous soffit, at least 40 feet wide."
CHURCHES— WE 8TMIN8TEB ABBEY. 117
In defence of this obetrnction it was objected that already the Hteeple of St. Martin's
charch oa Ludgate-hill wasooiwtantlj getting in the way when you wished to see the
dome of St. Panl's; which is altogether an error, as the thin proportions of the steeple,
in strong oontnut, add to the effect of the dome. From the east end of Bride-court,
Bridge-street, yon get a striking view of the dome ; as well as from the Farringdonroad,
Annexed b a recapitolation of the main dimensions of the Cathedral : —
fl. In.
nreomrerenoe of the Cathedral 2292 0
Height ofCentre,exclasiTe of Dome 310 0
Hei^btofNare, Choir, and Traneepte 100 0
Height firom floor of (>7pt to top of Crom 40A 0
Height from Nave pavement to top of Cross 980 0
Height of Western Towers 220 0
Height of Western Front •••••138 0
Diameter of Interior Dome ....•••••• 100 0
Height of Dome 600
Height of Dome from gnrand-line -• • . 215 0
Diameter ofopeningu top of Dome 14 101
Height of Lantern Gallery 274 0
Diameter of opening at top of Upper Dome 8 0
The following are the comparatire dimensions of St. Paul's and St. Peter's :
£.toW. West end, Ditto, Tran- Height
within. in. out. sept. to top.
St. Paul's .600 100 138 223 360 English feet.
St Peter's .669 226 896 442 432 „
St. Peter's occnpieeau acre of 227,069 soperiidal feet
St Paul's 84,026
The Cathedral is now in coarse of repair and redeooration, the funds being nused
by inhscription.* The organ and screen have been removed, and a new eastern transept
fonned. The great central area of the dome, found by experiment to be the part of
the Cathedral best adapted to the yolce, has been made available for Special Evening
Services, and 3500 persons can there be seated in chairs. The marble pulpit under
the dome, was given by his friends, as a memorial of the late Captain Fitzgerald.
The church can now be warmed by Gumey stoves, placed in the crypt, whence the
licsted air ascends through ornamental openings in the floor. The lighting is mainly
by the corona of gas which was left round the Whispering Gallery at the time of the
funeral of the Duke of Wellington. The Cathedral was first lighted with gas in 1822 ;
Hoore, in his Diary, says : " May 6, — Went with Lord and Lady Lansdowne, at ten
o'clock, to St. Paul's, to see it lighted up with gas, for, I believe, the first time.*'
The embellishment of the Cathedral, as originally designed by Sir Christopher
Wren, will consist in filling eleven windows at the ends of the choir, nave, and
transepts, with painted glass of the highest quality, uniform in style, design, and execu-
tion; in filling the spandrels of the dome, vaults, and other suitable compartments, and
ahimately the dome itself, with paintings in mosaic; and generally in gilding and in-
CTQtting with coloured marbles parts of the architecture. The four great arches leading
fr^m the dome, and the vaultings of the chinr, have been richly gilded. The spandrels of
the dome, vaultings, and other compartments are to be filled with paintings in mosaic
Qpon a gold ground, by Salviati ; and the series of painted windows has been com-
menced with two aisle windows, by Clayton and Bell, containing life-size figures of St.
Peter and St. PauL The great west window, containing the Conversion of St. Paul,
the gift of Mr. Brown (of the firm of Longman and Co.), is to cost 1000/.
WESTMINSTEU ABBEY.
npHE earliest foundation of Westminster Abbey is enveloped in obscurity, but is
*'- attributed by the early chroniclers to the British King Lucius, jl.j>, 184, or to
King Sebert, A.D. 616, its nte being then called " Thorney IsUnd;" but it is really a
* " The Fabric Fond " for keeping the bnilding in repair, produces only 12002. a year : there are more
U4n 8500 iqiiare iSeet, or two acres, of leadwork exposed to the son, the aoot and the weather, and the
hid work of the dome hoe demanded very eitensive repairs ; there are also about 450.U(M) fcot, or ten
1x1 ahalf aerea, of stonework likewise exposed to the sulphureous vapours and smoke of London ; to
nr nothing of the interior, of which the superficial area (including crypt) is about twelve acrca. A con-
*»cnble portion of the ftmd (236/.) is devoted to insuring the church from fire to the extent of 95,0(X)/.
■ts total value may be estimated at l,G0O,00M., but damage by fire oould not be done to a greater extent
ua&>perh4M, 000,000/.
118 CURIOSITIES OF LONDON.
peninsnla of the purest sand and gravel, which may be seen in the foandations of the
Abbey. The Island is named from this circumstanoe : *' Sebert» nephew to Ethelbert,
King of Kent and King of the East Saxons, having received baptism from the hands
of Mellitus, who, coming over with Austin the Monk, was placed Bishop of London,
pulled down a Pagan temple at a place called Thomey, from being ovei^grown with
thorns, about two miles' distance ftom London, and founded upon the place a church to
the honour of St. Peter." (Dean Buckland.) This church was not, however, com-
pleted until about 361 years after, by King Edgar, when it was named from being the
"Minster West of St. Paul's." It was in a decayed and almost escpiring condition
yrhea King Edward the Confessor, in fulfilment of a vow he had made during his exile
from the kingfdom, erected a church and abbey in a style hitherto unparalleled in
English architecture, at Westminster, and, according to William of Malmesbnry, the
earliest Norman chcuch in the island. Khig Edward gave to its treasury rich vest-
ments, a gulden crown and sceptre^ a dalmatic, embroidOTcd pall, spurs, &c., to be used
on the day of the Sovereign's coronation : here our Kings and Queens have been
crowned, from Edward the Confessor to Queen Victoria, and here very many of them.
are buried, some with and others without monuments. The Confessor lived just hmg
enough to see his intention fulfilled. On the Festival of the Holy Innocents, Dec 28,
1066, the new Abbey was dedicated, and the King, who died eight days afterwards, was
buried by his own desire in front of the high altar in the Church of which he had just
witnessed the completion. The Abbey as it now exists was for the most part rebuilt
by Henry III. (a.d. 1220 to 1269), out of regard to the memory of the Confessor ; but
it covers the same ground, and th^e are vestiges of the original building to be seen.
The remains of the Confessor were removed from before the high altar to the present
shrine in 1269 by Henry III. From the Fabric Bolls we prather that the outlay going
on at Westminster for the King's Palace and the Abbey Church was from 20,000^. to
40,000^. a year ; or, in fifteen years, more than half a million of our money value. A
great iliversity of materials was used. The early portion (Henry III.) was built with
the green sand or Qod-stone, which gave the name to the place in Surrey ; a large por-
tion, including the Jerusalem Chamber, was of this stone. Purbeck marble and Caen*
stone wei'e used ; and in some of the old cloisters, mag^edan limestone, similar to that
in the New Houses of Parliament. The enormous and massive fabric stands on a level
with the adjacent causeway— no£ having a basement ttofy, like St, PanPe — built upon
a fine close sand, secured only by its very broad, ^ide, and spreading foundations.
From a Norman-French verse of the time of Henry III., there is no doubt that
during that king's reign there existed a central tower and two others at the west end.
Sir Christopher Wren distinctly stated that the commencement of a central tower
existed in his time, and one of Hollar's views shows clear indications of it. As to what
kind of central tower over the crossing was originally intended, Mr. Gilbert Scott, R.A.,
concludes, chiefly from the slightness of the exquuntely graceful piers of the central
crossing, that nothing but a light ^^cA^, after the French fashion, was ever thought of.
Mr. Scott, who has so ably illustrated the architecture of the Abbey, says: —
" Of the oriiffual detsilf of the exterior it is nearly impossible to form u^hing like a oorrect idea.
The whole was greatly decajed at the oommencemoit of the last century, and was re-cased,
almost throofrhonL with Oxfordshire stone, by Sir Christopher Wren and his saooesTOrs, the
details being altered and pared down in a verr merdless manner : and the work, thns renewed, has
tlv decked. There is, in mc
portion of the exterior left." The Bayeox tapes^ shows the Abb^-ohorch in outline.
again become greatly decked. There is, in met, scaieely a trace of any original detail of the eastern
Dugdale, however, says :—
" The Church, as for as reboilt in the reign of Henir III^ may be easily distinguished from the parts
erected at a later period. It consists of Edward the Confessor's Chapel, the side aisles and chapels, the
choir (to somewhat lower than Sir Isaac Newton's monument), and tne transepts. The four pillars of
the present choir, which have brass fillets, appear to finish Henry's work : the conclusion of which is
also marked by a striped chalky stone, which forms the roof."— Dugdale's Monaatieon, voL ip. 273.
In 1862, it was discovered that in the south cloister wall of the Abbey the whole
extent of its lower half consists of masonry of the age of Edward the Confessor. This
* On the coast of France, in the neighbourhood of Caen, resides an old lady, on whose property are
some valuable stone quarries, fVom whence the English Commissioners proposed to purchase the
materials for building our Houses of Parliament. It is a curious fkct that, oy some old records in her
flunily. she can prove that the blocks of stone used in building our Westminster Abbey were derived
flrom the very same source.—^ Portion qfthe Journal qf T. Eaikt$, S$q,
CirUBGnES,— WESTMINSTER ABBEY. 119
stone of A.B. 1060 is anii\jared to this day ; though the vanlting above, of the date of
1380y has periahed considerably. Both are equally exposed to the air and to external
influences. The western towers, of shelly Portland ooUte, are sound.
Ktcholaa Litlington, Abbot in the reign of Edward III., added several abbatial
buildings, indading the Hall; a great chamber called "the Jernsalem;" the west
and south sides of the Great Cloister; and the Qranary. Remains of the Jewel
Honse, boilt by Richard II., exist. The walls, even to the parapets and the original
doorways, are perfect; the interior, however, has been altered to fit it for a depository
of the records of the House of Loitls ; the original groined vaults remain in the base-
ment. The walls of this ancient strong house are 6 feet thick ; and the masonry,
generally, is of a similar character to that of the cloisters and other vaulted substruc-
tnres built b^ Abbot Litlingtou. On the bosses of the vaulting in the parts of the
tdoisters attributed to this abbot the initials N. L. may be traced — rendering conjecture
as certain as it may be.
It has lately been brought to light that the nave of the Abbey was rebuilt in 1413
hj Richard Whittington and Richard Harrowden (a monk of the Abbey), to whom
Henry Y. issued a commission for the purpose. It has been plausibly argued by Mr.
Lysons, in his recent memoir of Lord Mayor Whittington, that this personage was the
very man named in the Royal Commission. The story goes that, when the King was
tmaUe to repay the sums which Whittington had advanced, the creditor magnani-
mously destroyed the bonds. There is every reason to believe that the old Norman
Nave was left standing until that time.
In 1602, Henry Vll. pulled down the Chapel of the Virgin, at the east end, and
replaced it with the beautiful chapel now called by his name. It was originally built
with Caen stone, and was restored within the present century, but with stone now
in a state of decomposition.
From the first opening of the edifice until after the reign of Elizabeth, the Abbey
was regarded as a safe Sanctuary : hither the Queen of Edward IV. fled with her five
daughters and the young Duke of York when the crafty Richard Duke of Gloucester
was plotting to seize the crown. ** The Queen," says Sir Thomas More, ** sate low on
the rushes, all desolate and dismayed;" whilst the Thames was foil of boats of
Gloucester's servants, watching that no man should go to Sanctuary. On the reverse
cf Edward IV., in 1470, his Queen, Elizabeth Woodville, took shelter in the
i^anctuary, where, " in great penury, forsaken of all her friends," she gave birth to
Edward V.
The dedication of the Chui*ch to St. Peter (the tutelar sjiint of fishermen) led to
their offeringti of salmon upon the high altar ; the donor on such occasions having the
privilege of sitting at the convent-table to dinnerj and demanding ale and bread from
tbecellBrer.
Succesnve kings and abbots continued the building on the plan of Henry III., but
so slowly, that the west-end towers in 1714 were unfinished ; these Sir Christopher
Wren pulled down, and erected the present western towers, in Grecianized Gothic style ;
he also proposed a central spire, as originally intended, foi; its beginnings appear
on the comers of the cross, " but left off before it rose so high as the ridge of the
roof." Of the old west front there is a view by Hollar, in Dugdale's Moncuiicon,
"The Abbejr Church," wa^ Mr. Bard well, " formerly arose a maffnificent apex to a royal palace, snr-
itranded by iti own greater and lesser sanctoariea and almonriea : Its bell-towers (the principal one 72
feet 6 inches aquare, with walls 20 feet thick), chapels, prisons, gpatehooses, boondary-walls, and a train
of other baOduigs, of which we can at the present day, scarcely form an idea. In addition to all the
land aromnd it, extending from the Thames to Oxford-street, and from Vauxhall Bridge road to tho
Church of 8t Mary-le-btrand, the Abbey possessed 97 towns and villages, 17 hamlets, and 216 manors!
Its oflioers ftd hundreds of persons daily; and one of its priests (not the Abbot) entertained
at his 'psvilioD in Tothill* the Kuig and Queen, with so large a party, that seven hundred dishes did not
•ulBoe for the first table : the AblMT butler, in the reign of l£dward III., rebuilt at his own private
expense, the stately gatenouse which gave entrance to Tothill-street, and a portion of the wall which
rcnatns to this ^j, —Britf Account qf Ancient and Modem Weetmintter,
At the Dissolution, the Abbey was resigned to Henry VIII. by Abbot Benson; and
the King ordered the Church to be governed by a Dean and Prebendaries, making
Benson the Dean. In 1541, the Church was turned into an Episcopal See, having
lAiddlesex for its diocese ; but was soon again placed under a Dean and Prebendaries.
120 CURIOSITIES OF LONDON.
Mary, in 1556, disfloWed this institutioD, and reappoiDted an Abbot and monks ; bat
Elizabetb, on her accession, placed it under a dean and 12 secular canons, as a
Collegiate Church, besides minor canons, and others of the choir, to the number of
80; 10 other officers, 2 schoolmasters, 40 scholars, and 12 almsmen, with ample
maintenance for all ; besides stewards, receivers, registrars, library-keepers, and other
officers, the principal being the High Steward of Westminster. In the time of Crom-
well, most of the revenues were devoted to the public service, but afterwards restored.
As the abbots of the monastery had in former times possessed great privileges and
honours annexed to the foundation, such as being entrusted with the keeping of the
regalia for the coronation, &c, having places of necessary service on days of solemnity,
and also exercising archiepiscopal jurisdiction in their liberties, and sitting as spiritual
lords in Parliament ; so the Deans of the Collegiate Church succeeded to most of
them, and still possess oonaderable privileges. The Chapter still have a jurisdiction,
not only within the 'city and liberty of Westminster, but also the precincts of St.
Martin's-le-Grand, first annexed to it by Henry VII.
We g^ve a pricit of the most ancient remains, by Mr. Soott :— •
** As Westminster Abbey Is about the earlleet work of its kind in this conntry, and as the bnilding of the
Ihtt portion of it by Henry IIL extended over s space of twenty-foar yean, •.«. flrom 1246 to 1260, it be-
comes Important to ascertain how early in this period the style of its architecture can be proved to hare
been defined. Now, a single en^ in the documents hi question has for ever settled this point I have
before stated that the most advanced part of the work (as to style) is the Chspter-house, as that
contained traoeried windows of four and fire lights in a very developed form ; the tracery is not
confined to circles, but containing great ouatrefous, and the hmdsof the lights being trefoiled, which
Is not the case in the church. Now it would be most useftil to know the exact date of these windows,
ibr, though Matthew Paris gives 1260 as the year of commencement of the Chapter-house, it may have
spread over an indefinite length of time, and the windows have bel<niged to twenty years after that date.
2«et us look then to the bills. Here we find in a roll, bearing date 37th Henrv IIL, or 1263, and expreaslj
oalled the dghth year from the beginning of the work, an iwm of ' 300 yards of canvas for the windows
of the Chapter-house,' followed immediately by items for the purchase of glass, showing that the windows
hi question were completed in 1263, which I see was a year Wore the King, in company with St. Louis,
visited the Sainte Chapelle, at Paris, which was then scarcelr completed, and the style of which indi-
cates exactly the same degree of advancement. I find also, that during the same year, the beaatifdl
entrance or vestibule to we Chapter-house was erected."
A ground-plan, which is made by the gradations of its shading to represent the
several ages of each part of the structure, shows us that the Chapel of the Pyx
and the whole vault^ undercroft, extending southward under the old dormitory*
which is the present Westminster school-room — besides the lower story of the re-
fectory, which forms the south side of the cloister — are remains of Edward the Con-
fessor's work, in the Late Saxon or Early Norman style. The superficial decoration
of the inner wall is, as is well known, of the most exquisite kind of Pointed Architec-
ture— that of the reign of Henry III. Late Norman is only found in the remains of
St. Catherine's Chapel, supposed to have been the Infirmary Chapel, which are visible
to the east of the Little Cloister. The Choir, Chevet, and Transepts of the Abbey-
church, and the Chapter-house with its vestibule, belong to the great rebuilding
undertaken by Henry III. The eastern half of the Nave, with the corresponding
part of the Cloister, was built in the First Pointed manner of Edward I. Later in
the same style is the south-eastern angle of the Cloisters. All the west end of the
Nave, with the remainder of the Clobters, and the Abbot's house (now the Deanery),
including the famous Jerusalem Chamber, were built in the Earlier Third Pointed;
while the eastern Chapel of Henry YII., replacing the Lady Chapel of Henry III.,
was added in the Tudor times of the expiring Gothic
The church is remarkable as marking, first, the introduction of the French arrange-
ment of chapels which, however, fiiil^ to take root here; and, secondly, the com-
pleted type of bar tracery, which was no sooner grafted on an English stock than it
began to shoot forth in most vigorous and luxuriant growth.
The Exterior of the Abbey is best viewed from a distance : the western front from
Tothill-street ; the picturesque North Transept from King-street ; and the south mde
from College-street. St. Margaret's Church, so often condemned as a disfigurement
in viewing the Abbey, renders its height much greater by oontrast. " Distant peeps
of the Abbey towers, springing lightly above the trees, may be caught on the lisiug
ground of the Green-park, and from the bridge over the Sei-pentine ; and the superior
elevation of the whole Abbey is seen with great effect from the hills about Wandsworth
CRUBCEE8,—WE8TMIN8TEB ABBEY. 121
And Wimbledon."— {ITan^iooit, by H. Cole.) The importance of the western
towers 18, however, lessened by the loftier tower of the New Hoases of Parliament.
The North Transept, though its niches are statueless, is remarkable for its
pinnacled buttresses, its triple porch and clustered columns, and its great rose-window»
90 feet in circumference — so as to have been called, for its beauty, " Solomon's porch."
From the west side of tins Transept, judicious restorations are in progress. At the
arched doorway leading into the North Aisle terminates the portion of the Abbey
completed by Edward I.
The Weitern Froni bears the date of 1735 : the height of the towers (225 feet)
tells nobly ; they were used as a telegraph station during the last French war. The
great west window was the work of Abbot Estney, in 1498. The base of the south
tower is hidden by the gable of the Jerusalem Chamber, now used as the Chapter-
house. Parallel with the Jerusalem Chamber are the College Dining Hall and Kitchen,
built by Abbot Litling^n. The Westminster scholars dined in the hall until the year
1839 ; in the centre fagots blazed on a circular stone hearth, the smoke finding egress
through the lantern in the roof.
The South Side is approached from Dean's Yard, on the east side of which an old
doorway leads into a court where is I nigo Jones's rustic entrance to the schoolroom of
the CoUege, refounded, in 1560, by Queen Elizabeth. To the left are the old grey
Cloisters, with groined arches of the fourteenth century, surrounding a grassy area^
monastic soUtude in contrast with the scene on the opposite side of the Church. The
BembrandUsh lights in these cloisters are very fine ; and here the South Aisle of the
Churchy with its huge buttresses, is best seen. The North Cloister is distinguished
by its trefbiled arches, with circles abov^ them, of the twelfth century. The East
Cloister {temp, Edward III.) is rich in flowing tracery and foliations. Here is the
entiBnoe to a chapel of the Confessor's time, and now " the Chamber of the Pyx,"
wherein are kept the standards used at the trial of the Pyx, the three keys of its
doable doors being deposited with distinct officers of the Exchequer. The groined
nx>f8 are supported by Romanesque or semicircular arches, and thick, shorty round
shafts.
Eastward is the magnificent entrance to the Chapter-house, which is to be repaired
under the direction of Mr. Scott. Its beauty is evident, notwithstanding its neglected
condition. In the course of the works, the architect has discovered the andent
entrance to the dormitory, which he re-opened, and restored as the entrance to the
library. This has enabled him to get rid of the modern entrance to the library, which
was cot through the groining of this passage, leading to the vestibule of the Chapter-
house.
The Interior. — ^The best entrance to the Abbey is through the little door into the
Sooth Transept, or Poets' Comer; whence the endless perspective lines lead into
mysterious gloom.
Prom Poets' Comer we tee, almost without changing the point of right, the two Transepts, and
part of the Nave and Choir. The interior conriste, as it were, of two grand ■tories. or series of groined
arehci of aneqaa] height : a lower story, which comprises the outer aisles of the Transepts, of the
Nsvc^ and the ambolatory of the Choir : and a higher story, forming the middle aisles of the Nste^
Transepts, and the Choir. The lower story mostly exhibits the remains of a series of three-headed
arches or trefoil-headed arcades, resting on a baaement seat : and abore these arcades are pointed win*
dowa, each divided in the centre by a single mnllion, surmomited by a circle. Among the marlied
featores of the whole of the apper and inner story are the moral decorations of the spandrels of the
arches ; i^ve them, the gallery or triforium ; and over this a clerestory of lofty windows.— (See Sand'
hook, by H. Cole, pp. 46, 46.)
The Interior, viewed from the western entrance, shows the surpassing beauty of the
long-drawn aisles, with their noble columns, harmonious arches, and fretted vaults,
" a dim religious light " streaming through the lancet windows.
The general pUm of the Church is cruciform : besides the Nave, Choir, and Tran-
septs, it contains 12 chapels, the principal of which are those dedicated to St. Edward
of England, to the Blessed Virgin (Henry VI I. 's), the easternmost building, and those
in the northern and southern sides of the building : four on the south, viz., those of
St. Blaise, St. Benedict, St. Edmund, and St. Nicholas ; on the north those of St.
Andrew, St. Michael, St. John the Evangelist, St. Erasmus, St. John the Baptist,
and St. Fftol. Of these, 10 are nearly filled with monumental tombs ; the Chapel
122 CUBI08ITIE8 OF LONDON.
of Henry VII. oonUining but the monument of iU founder ; and that of St. Piaal
haying but one tomb.
The South Transept is leM decorated than its fellow on the north; and the lower
part is concealed by the Library and Chapter-hoose. Here, in what is appropriately
termed Poet^ Comer, are the gpraves or monuments of the m^ority of our greatext
poets, from Chaucer to CampbeU. To the right of the entrance-door is the tomb of
"the Father of English Poetry" (d. 1400) : it is a dingy and greasy recess, on which
may bo traced with the finger Galfridus Chaucer, the only part of the inscription
which was originally chiselled; the other lines have disappeared. This memorial was
partly placed here in 1556, by Nicholas Brigham, a student at Oxford, and a poet,
too: the altar-tomb originally covered Chaucer's remains, removed firom here by
Brigham, who placed over it the canopy : it is altogether in decay, but in 1850 was
proposed to be restored. Nearer the door is the large monument erected by
Sheffield, Duke of Buckingham, to Dryden, whose name it simply bears, with
a noble bust of him by Scheemakers. Pope wrote for the pedestal this couplet : —
" This Sheffield raised : the sacred dntt below
Wu Dryden onoe : the WKt, who does not know? "
Next is a wreathed urn, by Bushnell, erected by George Duke of Buckingham over
Abraham Cowley, as the Latin inscription declar^ the Pindar, Horace, and Virgil of
England: this full-blown flattery, by Dean Sprat, greatly provoked Dr. Johnson.
From Chaucer's tomb, eastward, the monuments are placed as follows: — To John
Philips, who wrote The Splendid ShilUng, Cider, and other poems : profile in relief,
within a wreath of apple and laurel leaves. Barton Booth, the eminent actor, the
original Caio iu Addison's play : a bust, erccled by Booth's widow. Michael Drayton,
who wrote the Polyolhion : a bust on pediment, with a beautifhl epitaph, attributed
to Dryden; erected at the expense of Clifilyrd, Countess of Dorset, who also put up a
monument to Edmund Spenser, author of the Faerie Queene : tablet and pediment^
renewed in marble in 1778. Spenser was the second poet interred in the Abbey ; he
** died for lake of bread," in King-street, Westminster, and was buried here by
Devereux, Earl of Essex. Ben Jouson : medallion on the wall, by Bysbrack, after
Gibbs ; " O rare Ben Jonson !" inscribed beneath the head. Samuel Butleiv auUior of
Sudibras : bust, placed here by Alderman Barber, the patriotic printer (see Aldeb-
MAN, p. 5). John Milton, buried in St. Giles's Church, Cripplegate: bust and
tablet, erected by Mr. Auditor Benson, who, " in the inscription, has bestowed more
words upon himself than upon Milton." Thomas Gray, buried at Stoke Pogeis : a
figure of the Lyric Muse holding a medallion of the poet, by Baoon, BA., with
inscription by William Mason, Gray's biographer, who lies next : profile medallion,
with inscription by Bishop Hurd. Matthew Prior : bust by Coysevox, presented to Prior
from Louis XIV. ; and statues of Thalia and Clio, by Rysbrack. St. Evrcmond, the
French Epicurean wit : bust and tablet ; and below it, profile medallion, by Chontrey,
R.A., of Granville Sharp, Negro Slavery Abolitionist, erected by the African Institu-
tion of London. Thomas Sbadweil, poet-laureate early in the reign of William III.,
buried at Chelsea : but crowned with bays, above Prior's monumenL Christopher
Anstey, author of the New Bath Chtide : tablet on the next column ; and at the back
of St. Evremond's monument, a tablet to Mrs. Pritchard, the eminent tragic actress.
William Shakspeare: the subscription monument; a statue by Scheemidcers, after
Kent, with absurd and pedantic accessories : the lines on the scroll are from the play
of the Tempest, James Thomson, buried in Richmond (Surrey) Church : statue, paid
for by a subscription edition of his Seasons, &c., in 1762. Nicholas Rowe, dramatist
and poet-laureate (George I.), and his daughter Charlotte : busts by Rysbrack ; in-
scription by Pope. John Gay, who wrote the Beggart^ Opera: winged boy and
medallion portrait, erected by the Duke and Duchess of Queensbury : the scoffing
couplet, "Life's a jest," is Gay's own unworthy composition; the lines beneath it are
by Pope. Oliver Goldsmith, poet, dramatist, and essayist : medallion by NoUekens,
R. A., over doorway to the Chapel of St. Blaise ; the place chosen by Sir Joshua Rey-
nolds ; the Latin inscription written by Dr. Johnson. John Duke of Argyll : statues
of the warrior and orator tiA a Roman, w ith History, Eloquence, Britannia, &&, by
Roubiliac : Conova said of the figure of Eloquenoc : " This is one of the noblest
CHUBCITES.'-WBBTMINSTBR ABBEY. 123
stataes I have seen in EngLind." George Frederick Handel, the great musidan :
statue, beneath a winged harper and stupendoas organ ; the kst work of Roubiliac^
who took the mould from Handel's iaoe after death. Above the niche is a record of
the " Commemoration," in 1784 ; the gravestone is beneath. Joseph Addison, buried
in Henry VII.'s Chapel: a poor statue on pedestal, by Westmnoott, 'BlJl. Addison's
visits here ar^ever to be remembered : " When I am in a serious humour," writes he,
" I very often walk by myself in Westminster Abbey, where the gloominess of the
phtoe, and the use to which it is applied, with the solemnity of the building, and the
condition of the people who lie in it, are apt to fill the mind with a kind of melan-
choly, or rather tboughtfhlness, that is not disagreeable." Isaac Barrow, " the unfair
preacher," Ump, Charles II. : bust and iablet. Sir Richard Coze, Taster (of food) to
Queen Eliiabeth and James I. : marble tablet. Isaac Casaubon, the learned editor of
Feniua and PoUfhiut: marble monument. Camden, the great English antiquary,
and a Master of Westminster School : half-length figure ; buried before St. Nicholas's
ChapeL David Garrick, the eminent actor : statue, with medallion of Shakspeare ; a
coxcombical piece of art.
The most remarkable gravestones in the South Transept are those of Kichard
Cumberland, Richard Brinsley Sheridan, Samuel Johnson, and David Garrick and his
wife ; " Thomas Parr, of ye county of Sallop, bom in A.D. 1483. He lived in the
reignes of ten princes, viz.. King Edward IV., King Edward V., King Richard II I.^
King Henry VII., King Henry VIIL, King Edward VI., Queen Mary, Queen Eliza-
beth. King James, and King Charles ; aged 152 years, and was buryed here Nov. 15,
1635 f Sir William Chambers, architect of Somerset House ; R. Adam, architect of
the Adelpbi; John Henderson, the actor; James Maq)her8on, Esq., M.P. (Ossian
Macpherson); William Giffoid, critic; Davenant (inscribed, "O rare Sir William
Davenant !"), in the grave of Thomas May, the poet, whose body was disinterred, and
his monument destroyed, at the Restoration ; Francis Beaumont, " Fletcher's asso-
ciate ;" and Sir John Deidiam, K.6., author of Cooper's Sill.
Near Shakspeare's monument is a bust, by Weekes, of Robert Southey, poet-
laureate (buried in Crosthwaite Church, Keswick) ; and next is the gravestone over
Thomas Campbell, author of the Pleaswres of Hope, with an exquisite statue of the
poet, by W. C. Marshall. Here also is a sitting statue of Wordsworth, by Theed.
Large fees are paid to the Dean and Chapter for the admission of monuments : from
200/. to 300/. for a statue, and from 150/. to 200/. for a bas-reUef; for Lord HoUand's
monument, 20 feet square, 300/. The statue of Lord Byron, by Thorwaldsen, was
refused admission ; and after lying twelve years in the London Dock cellars, in 1845
it was placed in the Library of Trinity Colleg^e;, Cambridge.
"Tbe power of granting or refliting permission to erect monaments in the Abbey rests exclusively
with the l>ean, except when the House of Commons, by s vote and grant of public monqr, takes the
matter out of his hands. The Dean invariably reftises to allow the erection of statues, as encroach-
ing on space which ought to belong to worshippers, and is already unduly encumbered with stone
and marble."
Over the grave of Lord Macaulay is placed a tablet, with the following simple
inscription : '* Thomas Babing^n, Lord Macaulay, born at Rothley Temple, L^cester-
sbire, October 25, 1800. Died at Holly Lodge, Campden-hill, December 28, 1859.
' His body is buried in peace, but his name Uveth for evermore.' "
On the end of the gallery, westward, are the remains of a supposed fresco, a
Wliite Hart^ "oouchant, gorged with a £^ld chain and coronet," the device of
fiichardlL
The Chapel of St. Blaise^ or the Old Revestry, which occupies the space between
the South Transept and the Vestibule, lending from the Cloisters to the Chaptei'-
honse, is known to few visitors : its beautiful bit of sexpartite groining, and its mural
paintings, are very curious.
The Chapel of St. Blaise occupies the place of what is known at St Alban's and elsewhere as the
" slype." At the east end of the chapel are the remains of an elaborate painting of a figure holding a
grulfron, supposed, therefore, to represent St. Faith ; beneath which is the Crudflxion : there is also
a monk at bU devotions ; and the remainder of the pointed arch is filled with red and other coloured
zigng ornaments, inscriptions, and devices ; and although the original altar has been removed, the low
elevatloa, with a pecuUar circle in front, may still be traced. Immediately above the Blaise Chapel is
aome Kormsn masonry,— a piece of the eiterior of the former Abbey.
124
CURIOSITIES OF LONDON.
From Poets' Comer ((Goldsmith first mentioDs the felicitons name), in passing to the
first Chapel may he seen, preserved under gbiss, the remains of an altar-painting,
including a figure, prohably intended for Christ ; an angel with a palm-branch on each
side, and a figure of St. Peter ; considered by the late Sir C. L. Eastlake, P.R.A., to be
" worthy of a good Italian artist of the fourteenth century," yet executed in England :
of the costly enrichments there remain coloured glass, inlaid on tinfoil, and a few
cameos and gems. The following is the order of the Chapels, only the most remarkable
of their monumental Curiosities being noticed. The Chapels, both on the north and
south sides are nearly alike, and architecturally in character with Henry III.'s struc-
ture : they are lighted by lofty windows, with arches endosing circles, above which are
windows within triangles, also enclosing circles.
«N0erU71tANSEer choir j^ounl TMNScn
■4 • • •^
1
Oroond Flan of WesimlnBter Abbey.— A. Jerusalem Chamber. B. College Dinincr Ha]l. C. Kitchen.
D. Larder. E. Ancient remains. F. Confeosor's building (Pix). G. Dark Cloisters. H. Hall of
Refectory. 1. High Altar. 2. Henry Y.'s Chapel. 3. Porch to Henry Yll.'a Chapel. 4. Henry
VIL's Tomb.
1. St. Benedict's Chapel. — The oldest tomb here is that of Langham, Archbishop of
Canterbury (d. 1876) ; his effigies robed and mitred.
2. St. JEdmutuTs Chapel : Tomb of William de Valence, Earl of Pembroke, and half-
brother to Henry III. (d. 1296), the efiigies encased in metal — the earliest existing
instance in this country of the use of enamelled metal for monumental purposes ; tomb
of John of Eltbam, son of Edward XL, but without its beautiful canopy covering the
whole with delicate wrought spires and mason's work, everywhere intermixed and
adorned with little images and angels, according to the fashion of those times, sup-
ported by eight pillars of white stone, of the same curiously wrought work (d. 1384) ;
alabaster figures of William of Windsor and Blanch de hi Tour, children of Edward III.
CBXmCEESr-WEaTMmSTEE ABBEY, 125
the haj in a short doublet, the girl in a homed headdreis ; portrait hnnes, in the
irea» of Eleanora do Bohan, DiicheM of Glonoester, as a nun of Barking Abbey
(d. 1399), and Bobert do Waldeby, Archbishop of York (d. 1397)— both the moat per*
feet in the Church ; akbaster figure of Lady Elizabeth Ruasell, long absurdly said by
the gmdes to have died from the prick of a needle; wall monuments to Lady Jane
Sejmour (d. 1560) and Lady Jane Grey (d. 1553) ; black marble gravestone of Lord
Herbert of Cherhary (d. 1678); and Sir Bernard Brocas (d. 1470), altar statue and
deoorated canopy. This Chapel contains altogether about twenty monuments, indnding
ooe of the finest brasses in the Abbey. There are also some interesting specimens of
fpameffing on the well-known fine monument to Edward III., with metal statuettes
CQ the side opposite the entrance to this chapel. These enamels are of later date
(Edward III. died in 1377) and are probably of English make.
3. 8i. NiekoUu^t Chapel: Perpendicular stone screen, with quatre-lbiled arches
l^hly decorated, and embattled frieze of shields and roses, once coloured ; entrance,
ofer the grave of Sir Henry Spelman, the antiquary ; rich in Elizabethan tomb^,
bright with gold and colour, alabaster, touchstone, porphyry, and Tariegated marbles,
Gothic canopies, Corinthian pillars, kneeling and recumbent figures, Ac : marble tomb
cf the wife of the Protector Somerset; portrait bmss of Sir Humphrey Stanley,
knighted by Henry VII. on Bosworth Field ; gorgeous monument of the great Lord
Barghley to his wife Mildred and their daughter Anne; costly altar-tomb of Sir
George VUliers, erected for his wif^ by N. Stone, cost 560/., the year before her death ;
lamnment of Bishop Dudley, his original brass effigies gone, and the figure of Lady
Catherine St. Jdm in its place ! Here rests Eatherine of Valois, Queen of Henry V.,
removed on the pulling down of the old Chapel of the Virgin ; her body was for nearly
three ceDtnries shown to vintors, not being re-interred until 1776. Next is the vault
of the Percys, with a large marble monument, designed by Adsm ; here the Dukes of
Xorthumberland have been interred with great state; their fhneral procesdona
reaching fVom Northumberland House to the Abbey western door.
In the Ambulatory, opposite St. Nicholas's Chapel, are the eastern side of the tomb of
Edward III., and the chantry of Henry V., where Mr. Soott discovered tabemade-
work and statuettes within the masonry, and niches filled with blue glass. The entire
work contained, when perfect, more than seventy statues and statuettes, besides several
brass figures on the surrounding railing. Looking thence, in a few square feet, we
have specimens of Gothic architecture, in several of its stages, as it fiourisbed irom the
time of Henry IIL to Henry Yll. Through a dark vestibule you ascend to
4. Hemry VIVm Chapel, consisting of a Nave and two aisles, with five chapels at the
east end. The entrance-gates are of oak, cased with brass-g^lt, and richly dight with
the portcullis, the crown, and twined roses. The vaulted porch is enriched with
radiated quatrefinls and other figures, roses, fieurs-de-lis, &c. ; Henry's supportcri^ the
lion, the dragon, and the greyhound ; his arms and his badges ; a rose frieze and em-
battlement. The fim-traoeried pendentive stone roof of the Chapel is encrusted with
roses, knots of fiowers, bosses, pendants, and armorial cognizances; the walls are
covered with sunk panels, with feathered mouldings ; and in a profumon of niches are
statues, and angels with escutcheons ; and the royal heraldic devices, the Tudor rose
and the flenr-de-lis under crowns. The edifice is lighted by eight clerestory windows.
In the Nave are the dark oaken canopied stalls of the Knights of the Bath, who
were installed in this Chapel until 1812 : these stalls are studded with portcullises,
hkaoM on fetterlocks, fruit and fiowers, dragons and angels; and above each still hangs
the banner of its knight. In the centre of the apsis, or east end, within rich and
maanve gates of brass, is the royal founder's tomb : a pedestal, with the effigies (sup-
posed likenesses) of Henry and his Queen Elizabeth, originally crowned ; the whole
adorned with pilasters, relievos, rose-branches, and images, on graven tabernacles, of the
Kings and patron Saints, all copper-gilt ; at the angles are seated angels. This costly
tomb is thesis years' work of Pietro Torrig^ano, a Florentine, who received for it the
large sum of 1500/. : the Perpendicular brazen screen, resembling a Gothic palace, is
fine English art : it formerly had thirty-six statues, of which but six remain. The only
remnant of old glass in the Chapel is a figure called Henry VI L in the east window.
From Henry VII. to George IL, most of the English sovereigns have been interred
126 CURIOSITIES OF LONDON.
here. Edward YI. was buried near the high altar, but is without tomb or inscrip*
tion. In the North Aitle, in the same tomb, lie the Queens Mary and Elizabeth, with
a large monument to Elizabeth, by Maximilian Coulte, erected by James I.
"The bigot Mary rests in the Abb^ Church of Westminster, bat no storied monument, no eostlj
tomb, has been raised to her memory. She was interred with all the solemn ftmeral rites used bj th»
Chorch, and a mass of reqaiem, on the north side of the chapel of Henry VIL Dnrinff the
reign of her soecessor not the slightest mark of respect was shown to her memory by the erection of a
monument ; and eren at the present day no other memorial remains to point oat where she lies, except
two small h\Bick tablets at the base of the somptuoos tomb erected by order of King James L over the
ashes of Elizabeth and her less fortunate sister. On them we read as fbUows :
SXGirO COKBOKTSS
XT TBVA HIO OBDOB-
XIKVS XLIZABBTSX
XT UXmX 80BOBB8
IS BPB BBSVaBXC-
TIOXIB.
Sir F, Madden; Privjf-Pitnt Eaptun qfthsPrinetn Mary, 4re.
Near Queen Elizabeth's monument is an alabaster cradle and effigy of the infant
daughter of James I. ; which King, with his Queen Anne, and son Prince Henry, the
Queen of Bohemia, and Arabella Stuart, lie beneath. Next is a white marble sarco-
phagus containing the supposed remuns of Edward V. and his brother Richard, mur-
dered in the Tower by order of th^r unde. King Richard III. Near it is a recum-
bent figure, by Sir R. Westmacott, R.A., of the Duke of Montpensier, brother of Louis
Philippe, King of the French. Next \b the grave of Addison, whose elegant and im-
pressive essay on the Abbey Church and its monuments is inseparable from its his-
tory ; and dose by is the great pyramidal monument of Addison's friend and patron,
the Earl of Halifiix. The headless corpse of Charles I. was buried at Windsor. The
Protector was buried in Henry VII.'s Chapel, but in about two years his remains
were removed. In the South Aisle was interred Charles II., "without any manner
of pomp, and soon forgotten" (Ewlyn), James II. has no place here; the vacant
space ne«t his brother's remains being occupied by William III. and his Queen. Anno
and Prince George complete the royal occupants of the vault. In the centre of the
Chapel, in another vault, are the remains of King George II. and Queen Caroline, as
it were in one receptacle, a ride from each coffin having been removed by the King's
direction. In the same vault rests Frederick Prince of Wales, &ther of George III.,
beside the Duke of Cumberland, the hero of CuUoden. In the South Aisle is the altar*
tomb of Margaret Countess of Richmond, mother of Henry VII., with a brass effigy
by Torrigiano ; a very fine altar-tomb, with effigy, of Lord Damley's mother, who
" had to her great-grandfiitfaer King Edward IV., to her grand&ther King Henry VII.,
to her uncle King Henry VIII., to her courin-german King Edward VI., to her
brother King James V. of Scotland, to her son (Damley, husband of Maxy Queen
of Scots), King Henry I. (of Scotland), and to her grandchild King James VI. (of
Scotland)," and I. of England. Here also is the tomb, with effigy, of Mary Queen of
Scots, erected by Cornelius Cure for James I., who removed his mother's remains
thither from Peterborough Cathedral. In the same aisle lies Monk, Duke of Albe-
marle, whose funeral Charles II. personally attended : the statue monument b by
Kent. Here likewise are interred George Villiers, Duke of Buckingham (assassinated
1628), and his son, the profligate Duke.
Henry VII. did not live to see this Chapel finished; but his will, dated ▲«!>. 1509,
contains orders and directions for its completion. In several parts of the walls i»
repeated a rebus, formed by an etfe and a sUp or branch of a tree, indicating the name
of the founder, Islip. The Chapel had, at the beginning of the present century,
been built only about 300 years ; within a period of thirty-three years no leas a sum
than nearly 70,0002. ^vas spent in repairs, chiefly of the exterior.* In 1793, James
Wyatt stated that the repdrs, necessary and ornamental, would amount to 25,*200l.
The restoration was commenced in 1810; contrary to Wyatt's estimate, it occupied
thirteen yean instead of three, and cost over 42,0002.
The choristers had a right to levy a fine on any person who entered this Chapel with spurs ;
* Henry the Seventh's Chupel Is built of stone firom the quarries between the tovm of Belgate and
the chalk hills to the north.— Webster; Qeoloff, Traiu.
0miBCHE8,—WE8TMm9TEB ABBEY, 127
Bishop Flnoh had to par dcfateenpenoe for offending; and even the Boyal Dnke of Comherland, excns-
Sng himaelf with thia reply, " It is only fidr I shonld wear my spurs where they were first buckled on,"
oomplied with ^e eoatom. It was made the Chapel of the Knights of the Bath, May 18, 1725 ; the last
installation occorred in 1811. On May 9, 1803, aeoording to old custom, the King's cook met the
Knights at Poets' Comer with a chopmng-lmife, and addressed them with these words : ** If yon break
yoor oath, by virtoe of my office I will hack yonr spars flrom off your heels."
5. St, PauVt Chapel is crowded with Cinque-oento tombs, rich in marble, gildings
and eoloar : the tombs of Sir Thomas Bromley, Queen Elizabeth's Chancellor, hang
with banners; of Lord Bonrchier, standard-bearer to Henry V. at Aginconrt ; and of
Sir Giles Danbney, are among the best specimens of the period. In firig^d and
colossal contrast with their beanty, and hiding the Bafiaelesqae sculptures of Henry
the Fifth's chantry, is the mtting statue of James Watt, the engineer, by Chantrey,
R.A^ strangely oat of place in a medisBval Church : the inscription, which contains not a
woird of flattery, is by Lord Brougham. Next westward you ascend a small staircase^
leading to
6. Edward the Confenof^t Chapel, in the rear of the high altar of the Abbey. A
sqnare of red tiles marks the site of St. Edward's altar, which was standing at the
coronation of Charles II., and used as the depositary of the regalia. In the centre is
the Shrine of the Confessor, erected at the expense of Henry III., and enriched with
mosaic, priceless jewels, and images of gold and rilrer ; and bearing a Latin inscription,
now almost efiaced. Northward is the altar-tomb of Edward I. (d. 1307), of Purbeck
marble, "scantly fynysshed :" it was opened in 1774, when the King's body was nearly
entire. Next is the canopied altar-tomb of Henry III. (1272), once richly dight with
glittering marbles and mosaic work of gold, and still bearing a fine brass effigies of the
King. At the east end is the altar-tomb and effigies of Eleanor, Queen of Edward I. ;.
its beautiful iron-work, wrougfit by a smith at Leighton Buzzard in 1293-4, wa»
restored in 1849. To Fabyan's time, two wax tapers had been kept burning upon
Eleanor's tomb, day and night, from her buriaL The statue of the Queen Eleanor is
of English workmanship, by William Torel, a goldsmith, and dtizen of London.
There has been an attempt to prove that he was a member of the Italian family of
Torelli ; but the name of Torel occurs in documents from the time of the Confessor
down to the said William. When the beauty of the statue of the Queen is examined
it will be understood how acceptable is this discovery : " her image most curiously
done in brass, gilt with gold; her hair dishevelled, and falling very handsomely about
her shoulders; on her head a crown, under a fine canopy, supported by two cherubim,
an of brass gilt." The stone-work of the Queen's tomb was constructed by Master Richard
de Cmndale^ mason, who began the Cliaring Cross. Above the effigy was originally a
canopy of wood, made by Thomas de Hockington, carpenter. This canopy was painted
by Maater Walter de Durham, who also executed the paintings on the side of the tomb.
Bichard II. and his Queen, Anne of Bohemia, are commemorated by a tomb of
Petworth marble, inlaid with latten ; the fabric cost 250Z., the images 4002., and the
bnilding of the effigies of copper and latten g^t, Unked hand in hand, 400 marks.
Henry V., who removed Richard's remains from Langley, established a Chantry of " sad
and solemn priests," for his soul's repose.
The altar-tomb and chantry of Henry Y. occupy the east end of the chapel f
the head of the King, of solid silver, was stolen from the tomb at the Reformation.
«* In Hany the Fifth's time," says Sir Fhilip Sidney, " the Lord Dudley was his lord-
steward, and did that jntiful office in bringing home, as the chief mourner, his victoriona
master'a dead body, as who goes but to Westminster in the church may see."
At the King^a burial, three chargers, with their riders excellently armed, were led according to ens*
tool, m> to the high altar. The Iron gates were wroaght in the reign of King Henry VI. The screen,
flankea with two octagonid tower^ \b a mass of images of saints, scolptores of his coronation, and heraldic
badges. A mutflated effigy of oak lies upon the tomb : above him are Uie remains of tiie armonr which
he olliHed here in thanksgiving, the saddle-tree atrfpped of its bine velvet housings powdered with
ieor-de-lys ; the small shield, its green damask semie with lilies of France ; and that renowned
acre broken hehnet, its crest deepiv dmted with the stroke of D'Alen^nn'sbatUe-axe that stunned him at
Ajrlneoart, when It dove away naif of his golden crown. The canopies and niches, filled with statues
or ki^gl^ biahopi^ abbots, and saints, are very fine.
Tbe archway had formerly ornamented iron gates, made by a London smith, in 1431»
hot now among the Abbey stores. Next, by
^. 8t, Era9mu^9 Chapel, you enter
128 CUBIOSITIES OF LONDON.
8. 8t. John the Baptises Chapel^ with a groined roof, coloured end wall, and sculp-
tured arcades. Here are buried several early Abbots of Westminster. An altar-tomb,
of freestone, bears the effigy of William de Colchester, wearing g^ld bracelets bordered
vrith pearls and set with stones, and a gold mitre oovered with large pearls, and crosses
and stars of precious gems, — a rare piece of monumental costume. Here is a larg^
Cinque-oento monument to Cary, Lord Hunsdon, first cousin and Chamberlain to
Queen Elizabeth ; in the centre of the area is the altar-tomb of Thomas Cecil, Earl
of Exeter, and his two wives, the second of whom refused to allow'her statue to be laid
in the left side space, still vacant. The alabaster monument to Colonel Edward
Popham, '* one of the Parlioment Generals at sea," was the only one spared at the
Restoration. Nearly all the old tombs have lost their canopies. The view from here
is very picturesque and varied ; and in leaving the Chapel, the eye ranges across the
north transept, and down the north aisles of the choir and nave, through a high
o'erarohing vista of " dim religions light,'*' brightened by a gemmy lancet window.
d. Ahhot lalip's Chapel is elegantly scnlptured, and contains his altar-tomb, with
an effigy of the Abbot in his winding-sheet. In this chapel was the Wax-work Exhi-
bition, which originated in the olden custom of waxen figures of g^reat persons being
formerly borne in their funeral processions, then for a time deposited over their graves,
and subsequently removed. Other figures were added ; the nght was called by the
vulgar. " The Play of the Dead Volks," and was not discontinued until 1839. Next the
Chapel is the monument to General Wolfe^ by Wilton, B.A., with a lead-bronzed bas-
relief of the landing at Quebec, executed by Cappizoldi. We now enter the East
Aisle of the North Transept, formerly divided by enriched screens into the Chapels of
St. John, St. Michael, and St. Andrew. Here is the celebrated tomb of Sir Francis
Yere (temp, Elizabeth), his effigy recumbent beneath a canopy on which are his helmet,
breastplate, &c., supiwrted by four kneeling knights at the four comers ; the design is
said to have been borrowed from a tomb at Breda, attributed to Michael Angelo.
Roubiliac was found one day with his looks fixed on one of the knights' figures;
" Hush ! hush !'* said he to the Abbey mason, laying his hand on his arm as he
approached, and pointing to the figure, " he will speak presently.'' Near this tomb is
Boublliac'b famous monument to Mr. and Mrs. Nightingale, where Death, as a skeleton,
is launching his dart at the beautiful wife, who sinks into the arms of her agonized
husband . her right arm Is the perfection of sculpture : " life seems slowly receding
from her tapering fingers and quivering wrist." {Allan Cunningham^ Roubiliac
died the year after its erection, 1762 : this work touches every heart, but the figure
of Death is too literal and melodramatic. Upon the spot, formerly the oratory of St.
John the Evangelist, is a marble statue of Mrs. Siddons by Campbell ; she is in her
fiimons walking dream as Lady Macbeth. Here is also an alto-relievo, by J. Bacon,
jun., to Admiral B. Eempenfeldt, drowned by the sinking of the Royal George, 1782 :
"When Kempenfeldt went down
With twice four htmdred men."
Opposite is the colossal statue of Telford, the eminent engineer, by Baily, B. A. ; and a
tablet to Sir Humphry Davy. Eastward is the north side of Henry the Fifth's
Chantry, with his coronation ceremony, and its equestrian war-group, whose poetic
grandeur of sculpture so charmed Fkxman.
The shrine of Henry V. is excellently carved. The fignren, which are carried along ^^ screen, in
niches, arc mostly habited in long gowns, fastened bv a oacUed belt, and reaching to the feet, with a
cloak over them : others represent ecclesiastics ; and several of them have books. The coronation, in
a square compartment, is supposed by Qough to represent the coronation of Henir V. in this church,
by Thomas Arundel, Archbisnop of Canterbury, and Henry Beaufort, the king's uncle. The canopies over
the coronation, and nine small figores, are surmounted by devices of the swan and antelope alternately.
The large comicM under the figures are likewise ornamented with swans and antelopes, collared and
chained to a tree, on which is a flaming cresset light.
Near to this Chantry is the tomb of Philippa of Hainaolt, Queen of Edward III.,
in the account of its cost stated to have been executed by one " Hawkiu Liege, from
France," though its character is Flemish.
The monument consists of an altar tomb of dark marble overlaid with niches of open work in white
alabaster. These niches contained tliirty statuettes of different personage, connected by relationship or
marriage with the queen. Nearly the whole of the tabemacle-worli^ though shown as perfect in the
prints of the early part of the last century, has since disappeared.
CEJmCHE8,—WEaTMIN8TJEE ABBEY, 129
Next 18 the highly decorated altar-tomb and effigies of Edward III., with the
Tidiest and moet perfect canopy in the Abbey: it is Early Perpendicular, and
daborately carved ; six statues of Edward's children remain, of brass-gilt, set in niches ;
the metal table and effigy are of latten ; the head of the King is eulogized by Lord
Lindsay as one of almost ideal beauty. The sword, 7 feet in length, and weighing 18 lb.,
and the plain rough slueld of wood, coarsely lined with buckram and rough leather,
recal " the mighty yictor, mighty lord." The state sword and shield were carried
before Edward III. in France :
"The monoinexitBl sword that conqaered France."— 2>ry(2M.
Here, also, are three small tombs of children of Edward III., Edward IV., and
Henry YII. ; likewise, a brass of John de Waltham, Bishop of Salisbury, and Lord
High Treasurer, buried, by fiivour of Richard II., m this " Chapel of the Kings." This
is parted from the Choir by a shrine of fifteenth-century work, its frieze bearing the
following 14 sculptures, firom the life of the last legitimate Anglo-Saxon King :
1. Prelates and nobles doing (telty to Edward the Confbssor before he was born. 2. Birth of the
ConfeeBor. 3. The Confessor's Coronation. 4. The Confessor witnessing the DevU dancing on the
Danegelt Tax in casks. 6. Edward admonishing the thief stealing his treasure. 6. Christ appearing
to Edward. 7. Yision— King of Denmark fUlinglnto the sea. 8. Tosti and Harold's qoarrel. 9. Vision-
Emperor Theodosins snd Cave of Seven Sleepers of Ephesos. 10. Edward giving his ring to St. John
Erangdist 11. Bestoration of the Blind, by nse of water In which Edward had washed. 12. St. John
giving Edward's ring to Pilgrims. 13. Pilgrims retomingthe ringto Edward. 14. Called " Dedication
of Edward the Confessor's Chorch."
The two upper stories of the Shrine are of wainscot, and were probably erected by
Abbot Feckenham, in Queen Mary's reign. The massive iron-bound oaken coffin con-
taining the ashes of the pious Edward, within the ancient stonework, may be seen from
the parapet of Henry V.'s Chapel.
Two lUuminationB from the life of St. Edward, in the University Library,
Cambridge, show — 1. One end of the Shrine in whidi the saint was, probably, first
deposited after canonization, with the infirm persons creeping through the openings
left in his tomb for this purpose. There is a pillar on either side of the Shrine sur-
moanted by statues of St. John the Evangelist and Edward the Confessor. It is
therefbfre probable that the two large twisted columns which we now see at the base-
ment of the Shrine served for a similar purpose. 2. The side of the same Shrine.
The lid is raised, upheld by several persons ; and four other persons, one of whom is
doabtlesB intended to represent Gundulph, who vainly endeavoured to abstract one of
the hairs of the beard, are readjusting the saint's remains. His features and beard
are shown as in perfect preservation ; and there is a crown upon his head.
Mr. John Gongh Nidiols, from diaries kept during the days of Queen Mary, shows
that the body of the Confessor had been removed, and the Shrine, wholly or in part,
taken down at the Dissolution, but restored in Queen Mary's time, when the present
wooden Shrine, cornice, modem inscription, and punted decorations were added. Mr.
Soott, however, thinks the marble substructure to have been only in part removed.
There is, in Abbot Litlington's servioe*book in the Abbey Library, a view of the
Sfaiine— it is feared, an imaginary one. The substructure is speckled over to represent
moeaic work, but the Aven arched recesses for pilgrims to kneel under, which really
occupy two ndes and an end, are all shown on one side ! The Shrine has on its
skiped covering a recumbent figure of the Confessor. Mr. Scott opened the ground
roond the half-buried pillars at the west end, and found them to agree in height with
those at the east, which they so much exceed in diameter ; and he recovered the
broken parts of one of the eastern pillars, and refitted and refized its numerous frag-
ments with the help of one new piece of only a few inches in length ; so that we have
DOW one perfect pillar.
Some seven years ago, Mr. P. Cunningham foxmd in the Accounts of the Paymaster
of Works and Buildings, belonging to the Crown during the reign of King James II.,
the following entry : —
** Paid to Hathew Bankesi, for a large ooflBn by him made to enclose the body of St. Edward the Con-
fessor, and setting it np in its place, in the year 1685,-6/. 2«. 8i. And to William Backe, locksmith,
for lane hinges and rlvetts, and 2 erossebarrs for the said coffin,— 2/. 17«. Id**
" I have seen" (says Keepe) "a large chest or coffin, bonnd about with strong bands of iron, Iring
aboat the midst otthe inside oi this shrine, where I suppose tlie body of the pious Confessor may still be
egoserved." Keepe's work was poblished in 1681 j ajid four yean after, at the taking down of the
130 CURIOSITIES OF LONDOK
■eaffoldhiff, erected tbt the coronation' of James lU a hole was dther aoddeatally or pnrpoady broken in
the lid of the Confenor's coffin. ** On putting my hand into the hole " (says Keepe), " and turning the
bones which 1 felt there, I drew from underneath the shoalder*bones a orndflx, richW adorned and en-
amelled, and a gold chain, twenty-foor inches long." The erodflx and chain of the kut bmi om of
cor Saxon kings were accepted by the lagt of onr Btnart kiugi. Thehr destiny is, I beliere, on-
known.
With their backs to the screen stand the two Coronation Chairs nsed at the crown-
ing of the British sovereigns. One was made by order of Edward I. to hold the
Soone stone, of legendary tame, and which had been for ages the coronation seat of
the Scottish kings : it is of reddish-grey sandstone, 26 by 16f inches^ and 10^ inches
thick. The companion chair was inade for the coronation of Mary, Queen of
William III. Both chidrs are of architectural design : the ancient one, St. Edward's
Chair, is supported upon four lions ; and both are covered with gold-frosted tissue, and
cushioned, when used at coronations.
Mr. Bti]^;es believes that the Chidr was ornamented with painting, gOdhig, glass, jewek, and enamels
in a similar mode as were the sedilla and retabnlom. The gilding of the chair was efiwted by a pro-
cess not hitherto detected. After the usual ''gesso " was applied, and the gold laid on by means of
white of egg, and the ground thus formed was still elastic, a blunt instrument was used to prick out
the pattern. Sy the ud of a dark lantern and a stnmg lens, the decorations have been made out by
Mr. Tracey. At the back of the chair are remains of the representation of a king there, seated on a
cushion diapered with lozenges, with his feet resting on a lion. On the dexter side are traces of birds
and foliage ;--on the sinister a diaper of compound quatrefoils with a different sulyect, such as a knight,
a monster, a bird, foliage, in each quatrefoiL
In the Wardrobe Accounts of Edward I.'s time there is a chai^ by Master Walter, the painter, for
the costs and expenses incurred by him for making one step at the foot of the new ehair (in which is the
stone flrom Scotland), set up near the altar in St. Kxlward's Shrine in the Abbatial Ghuitdiat Westmin-
ster, in pursuance of the order of the King, for the wages of the carpenter and painter for painting the
same, together with making a case for corering the chur. The cost of this was 1^ 19*. 7tL The coro-
nation-stone is placed within the framework of the chair : at each end is a circular iron handle, affixed
to a staple withm the stone itself, so that it might be lifted up.
In 1297, according to Stow, Edward I. offered at the Confessor's Shxine the chur,
containing the famous stone ; and the sceptre and crown of gold of the Scottish
sovereigns, which he had brought from the Abbey of Scone. The Ptophetic or
Fatal Stone is named from the belief of the Scots that whenever it was lost, the
power of the nation would decline ; it was also superstitiously called Jacob's Pillow.
The mosaic pavement of this chapd, by Abbot Ware, is as old as the Confessor's
Shrine : its enigmatical designs in tessersB of coloured marbles, porphyry, jasper,
alabaster, &c., are very curious.
The North Transept, from its number of political memorials, is sometimes caJled
Statesmen's Comer, in correspondence with Poets^ Comer, in the South Transept.
The North Transept contains some important modem monuments : such are Bacon's
statue of the great Lord Chatham, with allegorical fig^ures; and Nollekens's large
group of pyramid, allegory, and medallion, to the three Captains mortally wounded m
Bodney's victory of April 12, 1782 : these are national tributes, erected by the King
and Parliament. The memorials to naval commanders here are numerous, and their
heroic suffering h usually narrated in medallion. Mrs. Warren and child, sometimes
entitled " Charity," for pathetic treatment has few rivals in modem sculpture ; it is
by Sir E. Westmaoott, B A. One of the grandest works here is Flazman's sitting
statue of Lord Chief- Justice Mansfield, supported by figures of Wisdom and Justice ;
in the rear of the pedestal is the crouching figure of a condemned youth, with the
torch of life reversed, or it is better described as " a criminal, by Wisdom delivered
up to Justice." (Cunningham's Sandbook of Westminster Abbey,) Lord Mansfield
rests beneath this memorial : it cost 2500Z., bequeathed by a private individual for its
erection. In the pavement here are buried Chatham, Pitt, and Fox; Castlereagh,
Canning, and Grattan ; Lord Colchester and William Wilberforce :
*' Now— taming thought to human pride I —
The mighty chiefli sleep side by aide.
Drop upon Fox's graYe the tear,
'Twill trickle to bSi rival's bier ;
O'er Pitt's the monmftd requiem sound.
And Fox's ^hall the notes rebound." Sir WaUer SeoU,
Pox's memorial, by Westmacott, shows the orator dymg in the arms of Liberty,
attended by Peace and a kneeling negro. Canova said of the figure of the African
in this group, that " neither in England nor out of England had he seen any modem
work in marble which surpassed it." King George lY. subscribed 1000 guineas
CHUBCEE8,—WE8TMIN8TEB ABBEY. 131
towards this monnment. Pitt's monnment, by the same sculptor, is over the great
westem door of the Nave. lu the north aisle of the Choir, leading to the Kave, are
Chantrey's marble portrait-statues of Horner, Canxung, Malcolm, and Raffles ; a statue
of FoUett, by Behnes; John Philip Kemble (without a name), modelled by Flaxman,
bat ezecated after his death ; Wilberforce, by S. Joseph ; and, opposite Canning, the
late Marquis of Londonderry, by J. E. Thomas — ^placed here, in 1850, by the Marqms's
brother. Nearly opposite is the grave of Viscount Palmerston, d. October 18, 1865.
Here are three monuments by Wilton: statue of General Wolfe, and figures;
statue of Admiral Holmes, in Roman armour ; and William Pulteney, Earl of Bath,
statues and medallion. ,
The more andent monuments, of the larger size, are those of William Cavendish ,
the loyalist Duke of Newcastle, and his Duchess ; and his kinsman, the Duke John
Holies. Here, too, are memorials of our old admirals. Sir Charles Wager, Vernon of
Portobello, and Sir Peter Warren, by Scheemakers, Rysbrack, and Roubiliac. Here are
busts, by Weekesy of Charles Buller and Sir George Comewall Lewis, the latter in the
western porch, and adjoining the monuments to Follett, Kemble, and Lieut.-G^.
Sir Eyre Coote. Next, also, are the bust of Warren HastiDgs, by Bacon ; Thrupp's
statue of Sir Thomas Fowell Buxton ; and Sir Robert Peel, by (Hbson, R.A. Here,
likewise, is the mural monument, by Noble, to Sir James Outram — a bust surmounting
ft historical group of the meeting of Outram, Havelock, and Clyde, at Lucknow : the
tablet supported by figures of a Scindian and Bheel chief.
The dx lancet windows of the North Transept, painted with figures of Moses,
Joshua, Caleb, Gideon, David, and Jonathan, and with medallion pictures of their
chief cxplints, were erected in memory of six officers of Sir James Outram's army,
killed in the Indian War of 1857 and 1858 ; another window, in the aisle to the left,
is dedicated to that of Brigadier the Hon. Adrian Hope. The rose-window, higher up,
filled with paintings of, the Saviour, the twelve Apostles, and the four Evangelists, is
of much older date.
The Choir is in height the loftiest in England. The light and graceful piers are
ornamented with detached shafts filleted with brass. The triforium, or gallery imme-
diately above the aisles, where the nuns of Kilbum are traditionally said to have
attended service^ is an arcade of double compartments of two arches with a dnquefoil
m the head ; the arches narrow towards the apse, and become sharply pointed. This
arcade is probably the most beautiful example in enstence of its kind. Mr. Scott
says >— -"The spadousness of this upper story is quite surprising to persons who see it
for the first time. It is capable of oontuning thousands of persons, and its architec-
tural and artistic effects, as viewed from different points, are wonderfully varied and
beautifuL" Its convenience for public solemnities, as coronations, was very great ;
and it is to be wished that access to these noble triforial galleries, from which by far
the most beautiful views of the interior are to be had, were more freely granted to
such vintors as would appreciate the privilege. Mr. Burges suggests, not altogether
without probability, that it was in the spacious triforium that Caxton first set up his
printing-press in Westminster Abbey.
The derestory windows are of two lights : the spandrels are chiselled with diaper
work in small panels, containing flowers in low relief. The piers of the lantern are
mawve and grand— K>ne continuous upward line of grey marble, surrounded by sixteen
shafts wrought out of the main column. The bosses in the vault were gilded in the
time of Queen Anne. The vaulting of plaster under the lantern is by Bemasooni, and
designed by James Wyatt, who set up the paltry altar screen at the coronation of
George IV.
The pavement of opu§ AUxandrimm, on the lUtar platform, was made by a Boman artist for Abbot
ip-
ine pavement or opu§ Aiexantinmm, on the altar piatrorm, was made dt a Koman artist lor ado<
Waxe, Mreo 1868. An ineciiption on tbe pavement aavs r— '*Odericiu et Abbaa hoe oompegere po;
phTreoe lapides." But for three peealiarities indicated bj Mr. Bargee, it might be anppoeed ttu
Abbot Ware had broaght this present for hie church from Borne in its finlebed state ; an examination
will abow that tbe Italian gronnd for mosaics, oippolino, not being obtainable in this country, Porbeck
was enbetituted ; that legends in brass letters were inserted in tbe Porbeck borders ; and that glass
was Introdoced ; facts which show oonclosively that it was of Northern worlunansUp. Among the
suns paid by tiie ezecators of Qaeen Eleanor was an accoont of sixty shillings to William le Pavoor
" pro pavimento faciendo In Eoolesia Wrat." This, it is coi^ectared, relates to the mosaic pavement in
the ehitpel of Edward the Confessor.— Soott's Qleanit^§from Wettmn&ter Abbey,
The Choir was formerly hung with beautiful tapestries, and doth of arras, which, on
k2
132 0UBI08ITIE8 OF LONDON.
Jan. 4, 1644, were traBsferred to the Parliament House, g^ven back at the Bestoratioii.
and finally remoyed in 1707 : a portion is now in the Jenualem Chamber.
The Chair has lome fine canopied monaments. On the north side is the richly
canopied tomb of AveUna, Countess of Lancaster; of Aymer de Valence, Earl of
Pembroke (best seen from the north wsle) ; and Edmund Crouchback, Earl of Lan*
caster, second son of Edward III. Aymer de Valence was one of the heroes of
Bannockbum, and fell wounded by a tilting-spear in France, June 23, 1323 : Gray
portrays his countess as—
The sad Cbatillon on her bridal mom
Who wept her bleeding lore.
The monument was thus descHbed by Keepe in 1683 : —
" A wainscot cheet. oorered over with plates of brass, richly ouunelled, and thereon the image of
de Valence, Earl of Pembroke, with a deep shield on his left arm, in a coat of mail with a snrooat, all of the
same enamelled brass, silt with gold, ana beset with the arms of Valence, ^ * * * Bound about the
inner ledge of this tomb is most of the epitaph remaining, in the ancient Saxon letters ; and the rest of
the chest, covered with brass, wronght in the form of lozenges, each lozenge contahiing either the arms
of England or of Valence, alternately placed one aAer the other, enamelled with their colours. Bound
this chest have hoen thir^ little brazen images, some of them still remaining, tweWe on each side, and
three at each end, diTided by central arches that serve as niches to enclose them ; and on the outward
ledge, at the foot of these images, is placed a coat of arms in brass enamelled with the colours."
Flaxman characterizes the two latter monuments as " specimens of the magnificence
«f our sculpture in the reign of the first two Edwards, ^e loftiness of the work, the
number of arches and pinnacles, the lightness of the spires, the richness and profusion
of foliage and crockets^ the solemn repose of the principal statue, representing the
deceased in his last prayer for mercy at the throne of grace ; the delicacy of thought
in the group of angels bearing the soul, and the tender sentiment of concern variously
expressed in the relations ranged in order round the basement,^fQrcibly arrest the
attention, and carry the thoughts not only to other ages, but to other states of existence."
In the South aisle of the Choir is part of a splendid altar frontal (thirteenth century),
discovered in 1827.
This is a very wonderibl work of art, being most richly decorated with glass, gold, and painting, and
probably with precious stones, and even with casts of antique gems. The glass enrichments are of two
sorts — ^in one the ^ass is coloured, and is decorated on its fkoe with gold diaper; in the other
It is white, and laid upon a decorated surface. The great charm, however, of the work must have bem
in the paintings. They consist of single figures in niches of our Lord and SS. Peter and Paul, and two
female saints, and a number of small medallion subjects beautifiilly painted.
On the south is the Cinque-cento altar-tomb of Anne of Cleves, one of King Heniy
VIII.'s six wives, which is so miserable as to have led old Fuller to observe, ** not one
of Harry's wives had a monument, and she but half a one ;" above is the tomb
of King Sebert, erected in 1308, and bearing two pictures, Sebert and Henry III.,
among our earliest specimens of oil-painting, and in tolerable condition.
In 1848^ the oak refitting of the Choir was completed ; the Organ over the screen at
the west entrance was then partly removed to the sides, and partly lowered, so as not
to intercept the view of the great west window. On each side are ranged oaken
stalls, with decorated gables, those for the Dean and Sub-dean distinguished by lofUer
canopies^ and the western entrance being still more enriched; the pew-fronts and
seat-ends are also carved, and many more sittings have been provided : the carved
wood-work is by Messrs. Buddie, of Peterborough, from designs by E. Blore.
The great circular or marigold window, and the triforium and other windows beneath
it, in the South Transept, have been filled with stained glass by Ward and
Nixon ; the subjects are inddents in the life of our Saviour, with figures nearly three
feet high. From the cross of the Transepts, the magnificent perspective of the high
imbowed roof of the Nave and Choir, and the great height of the edifice, nearly 104
feet, is seen to the best advantage. The pavement is partly Abbot Ware's, and in
part bkck and white marble, the latter given by Dr. Busby, of Westminster School.
The decorations of the altar are in the Gothic style; but a classic order disgraced the choir
from the days of Queen Anne to the reign of George IV. The original stalls of the choir
seem to have been retained in a more or less perfect state till late in the last century.
They are shown in the view given by Dart, and in that given in Sandford's account of
the coronation of James II. The canopies are there supported by single shafts. The
sedilia are more than usually curious, from the fact that they are made of wood. They
have iufiered much since Sir J. Aylifie had them and the tomb of Avelina, Countess of
CEUBGHE8,-^WE8TMIN8TEB ABBEY. 133
Lancaster, drawn for the Vetusta Monumenta, in 1778. There are four of them :
bat no trace is found of a piscina. They appear to hare been elaborately decorated by
prooeeses similar to that wluch beantified the retabulum, which was disooyered by Mr.
Blore, in 1827, lying on the top of the etRgj cases in the upper chapel of Abbot Islip.
It is a rich specimen of thirteenth-century workmanship ; and has been restored to its
place at the back of the high altar.
The north aisle of the Choir, leading to the Nave, has been described as a sort of
Mntietant^ Comer ; for here rests Purcell, with the striking epitaph, attributed to
Bfyden : *' Here Ues Henry Purcell, Esq., who left this life, and is gone to that
Uessed place where only his harmony can be exceeded." On the same pillar is a
memorial of Samuel Arnold ; both Ftircell and Arnold were organists of the Abbey.
Opposite is a tablet to Dr. Blow ; and close by lies Dr. Croft, another organist of
the Abbey, whose death is said to have been brought on by his attendance at the coro-
natioa of George II.
Coronations. — In this Abbey-church the following monarchs and consorts have
been crowned : —
Jan. e, 1066, Harold; Dec. 25, TVilliam ; Sept 26, 1087, William II. ; Aug. 0, lOH Henry L ; Deo.
96. 1135, Stephen of Blob; March 22, 1135-6, Matilda of Boulogne; Dec. 19, 1154, Henrr 11. and
Eleanor of Aquitaine; Sunday after St. Bamabae* day, 1170, Prince Henry; Sept. 3, 1189, Rlcliard I. ;
May 27, 1199, John; Oct 28, 1216, Henry HI., and again Feb. 1236, with Eleanor of Provenoe;
Ao^;. 19, 1272, bldward I. with Eleanor of Castile ; Qolnqaasreaima, 1308, Edward II., and Isabella oP
Pranee ; Feb. 2, 1327, Edward Id., and Philippa of Uainault ; Richard XL. July 16, 1377 ; Jan. 14^ 1382,
Anne of Bohemia; Oct 13, 1399, Henry IV., and Feb. 26, 1408. Joan of Bretagne, with the sacred nn-
gnent of Bheims; April 9, 1421, Henry Y., and Feb. 24, 1421, EjUhcrine of Valois ; Nov. 6, 1421. Henry
Vl.; May SO, 1415, Margaret of Ai\}ou; June 8, 1460, Edward IV., and Ascension-Day, 1466, Elizabeth
Woodville ; Jaly 6, 1483, Bichard III.; Oct. 30, 1486, Henrv VII., and Nov. 26, 1487. Elizabeth of York ;
Jane 24, 1609, Henry VIII. and Catherine of Aragon; Whitsun-Day 1533, Anna Boleyn ; Shrove Tuee-
day, 1547, Edward VI. ; Oct. 2, 1552, Mary ; Jan. 13, 1558-9, Ellzabeti^ ; July 25, 1603, James I. (the service
for the first time being in the English tongue) ; Feb. 2, 1626, Charles I., ominously clad in white satin : St
George's Day, 1661, Charles II. ; St George's Day, 1685, James II., and Mary of Modena; April 18,
1680, William of Orangpe and Marr, when Lord Danby had to produce twenty guineas at the onertoiy,
as the purse had been stolen at the king's side fthe Mshop of London put tne crown on the king's
be^Las Dr. Sancroft, the Arohbishop of Canterbury, would not take the oaths to their M^esties];
April 23, 1702, Anne ; Oct. 20, 1714, Oeorge I., who rudely repulsed Dean Atterbury's ceremonious
offer of the canopy and chair of state, but refused to wear his crown while receiving the Holy Com*
monioo, saying it was indecent so to appear before the King of kings; Oct 11, 1727, George Ll. and
Caroline of Anspach ; Sept 22nd, 1761, George III. (the kiss of charify was omitted, and mitres were first
disoaed by the prelates) : July 19, 1821, Oeorge IV. ; Sept. 8, 1831, William and Adelaide, without coro-
Dation feast and procession, or champion's challenge ; June 2& 1838, "The Hanover Thursday," Queen
Victoria ; when, for the first time since the Revolution, a sovereigru was desired to lay aside the crown be-
Jbro receiving the Holy O>mmunion ; and a procession of coaches was substituted for the ancient proce^
aion on foot— IFo/co^a Quid4 to flu CatUdroU, 1868.
Upon most occanons, the sacred ceremony was followed by a banquet in the Great
Hall of the Palace of Westminster. The last of these festivities was that at the coro*
nation of George lY. On the night previous, the King reposed on a coach in the
tapeatry-room of the Speaker's official residence in the Old Palace -, and next morning
the royal procession advanced along a raised platform, covered by an awning, from West-
minster Hall to the Abbey Chards, where the King was crowned ; and then returned
to the Great Hall, where the banquet was served.
The entire cost of this Coronation is stated to have exceeded a quarter of a million, or more than
968,0001. It has been commemorated in one of the most costly works of pictorial art ever produced —
the lUmtirated Hittory of the Corom4Mtion qf Oeorge IV., by sir George Nayler : containing forty-five
qriendidly coloured plato, atlas folio, price fiftv guineas per copy. Sir George lost a considerable sum
by the pabUcation, aiithongh Government voted SOOOf. towards the expenses. Sir George also under-
took a modi more costly memorial of this Ckironation for George IV., but it was never completed.
The portioa executed contains seventy-three coloured drawings, finished like enamels, on velvet and
white satin : the portraitA are very accurate likenesses, and many of the coronets have rubies, emeralds,
pearls, and brilUaots set in gold ; each portrait costing fifty guineas, first-hand.— H. Bohn's Catalogue.
At the coronation of Queen Victoria, temporary reception apartments were erected
at the great western entrance to the Abbey Church ; the Nave was fitted with galleries
and seats for spectators, as were also the Choir and Transepts ; the peers were seated
in the North Transept, and the peeresses South ; and the House of Commons in a
gallery over the altar ; and the orchestra of 400 performers in front of the organ.
At the intersection of the Choir and Transepts was the theatre, or pulpitum, covered
with rich carpets and cloth of gold, in the centre of which, upon a raised platform,
stood the Chair of Homage. At the north-east comer of the theatre was the pulpit»
whence *' tho Coronation Sermon " was preached. The crowning in SL Edward's
Chair took place in the Sacrariam, before the altar, in front of St. Edward's Chapel |
134 CURIOSITIES OF LONDOK
and behind the altar wm " the Queen's Traverse," op retiring-room. (See " Corona-
tion Choirs," described at p. 132.)
At the altar were married the Princesses Joan and Margaret, May 2, 1284 ; and
Henry and Elizabeth, January 18, 1486; here werQ ofifered the spoils of Wales,
April, 1285 ; here, when Prince Edward was made a Knight, two knights were stifled
in the crowd, and the King swore him and his nobles on the two golden swans that
were carried up in procession, to avenge John Comyn and conquer Scotland. Here
Henry V. offered the trappings of his coursers on his return from France, to be con-
verted into vestments. Here, August 11, 1381, the Constable of the Tower and Sir
Balph Farren slew a squire who had fought at N(\jara, and a monk who endeavoured
to ssive him, before the Prior's stall : as in 1380 Wat Tyler's mob slew a man before
the Shrine. Here Abbot Weston celebrated mass in armour, when Sir T. Wyatt was
marching on London ; and afterwards silenced his opponents in a famous disputataon*
saying, *.* You have the word, but we have the sword." — Walcotf s Handbook.
The Nave has almost every variety of memorial — sarcophagus and statue, bust and
brass, tablet and medallion, mostly modern. Immediately behind the memorial of
Fox, on the left, as the visitor enters the great western door, are a marble bust of Sir
James Mackintosh, and busts of Zachary Macaulay, Tiemey, and other public men.
In the southern aisle of the Choir, leading to the Nave, is Bird's monument to Sir
Cloudesley Shovel, personifying '' the brave, rough English Admiral" by a periwigged
beau, which was so justly complained of by Addison and the pious Dr. Watts. Opposite
is Behnes's bust of Dr. Bell, the founder of the Madras System of Education ; and near
it is the monument to Thomas Thynne, of Longleat, Wilts : he was shot in his coach, at
the cud of the Haymarket, Sunday, Feb. 12, 1682, as sculptured on the tomb. Here»
too, is a fine bust, by Le Sceur, of Sir Thomas Richardson, Lord Chief- Justice {temp,
Charles I.) ; and a bust of Pasquale de Paoli, the Corsican chief. Here, also, are
the monuments to Dr. South, the witty prebendary of the Church; Dr. Busby,
master of Westminster School ; and Dr. Isaac Watts, buried in Bunhill Fields.
In the two side arches of the Choir screen are the monuments of Sir Isaac Newton,
and James, first Earl Stanhope; both ^designed by Kent, and executed by Rysbrack :
Newton's is characterized by the celestial globe, with the course of the comet of 1681,
and the genius of Astronomy above it. In the screen niches aro statues of Edward the
Confessor, Henry III., and Edward I., and their respective queens.
In the Nave north aisle is a weeping female, by Flaxman, to the memory of G^i^
Lindsay Johnstone — a touching memorial of sisterly sorrow. One of the few old
monuments here is that to Mrs. James Hill — a kneeling figure and sheeted skeleton,
and the mottoes : " Mors mihi lucrum," and " Solus Christus mihi sola salus." Near
the above is the Parliamentary figure-group, by Westmacott, to Spencer Perceval, the
Pk-imo Minister, shot by Bellingham, in the lobby of the House of Commons, May 11,
1812 ; the assassination is sculptured rearward of the figures. Here also are several
interesting monuments to heroes who have fallen in battle : as. Colonel Bringrfield,
killed by a cannon-shot at Bamilies whilst remounting the great Duke of Marlborough
on a fresh horse ; the three brothers Twysden, who fell in their country's service in
three successive years; Captains Harvey, Hutt, and Montagu, who fell in Lord
Howe's victory of June 1 ; Sir Eichard l<ietcher, killed at St. Sebastian ; and the Hon.
Major Stanhope, at Corunna. Here, too, is a plain tablet to Banks, the sculptor, R.A. ;
a monument to Sir Godfrey Kneller, the painter, by Rysbrack, after Sir Godfrey's own
design. Pope furnishing the epitaph : Kneller is buried in Twickenham Chureh. To-
wards the middle of the Nave are the gravestones of Major Renncll, the geographer ;
and Thomas Telford, the engineer ; and near Banks's tablet b buried Ben Jonson, hia
coffin set on its feet, and originally covered with a stone inscribed *' O rare Ben
Jonson !" By his side lies Tom Killigrew, the wit of Charles the Second's court ; and
opposite, his son, killed at the battle of Almanza, in Spain, 1707. In the north aisle,
too, is n large brass to the memory of Sir Robert Wilson, the soldier and politician,
and Dame Jemima, his wife ; with figures of a mediroval warrior in coat of mail, and
of a medioDval lady, under canopies ; and below are two groups of seven boys and seven
girls ! Side by side are memorials of Robert Stephenson, the engineer, and John
Hunter, the surgeon, removed here in 1859, from the Church of St. Martin's-in-the-
Fields; the memorials are of polished granite, inlaid and bordered with brass.
CHUBCHE8,—WE8TMmSTEE ABBEY. 135
Over the west door ig Wesbnacotfs atatae- memorial to the Right Hod. William
Pitt : it cost 6300^ then the largest sum ever voted by Government for a national
mannment. To the left is a large marble monument to Lord Holland, by Bally, B. A^
erected hj pablic subscription in 1848; the design — the prison-house of Death, with
three poetic figures in lamentation, bassi-relievi on the two sides, and the whole sur-
moimted by a colossal bust of the deceased Lord — ^is, perhaps, the finest architectural
and sculptural combination in the Abbey.
We now reach the south tower of the western fWmt, used as the Consistory Courts
and Chapel for Morning Prayers.
In the south aisle of the Nave, commencing fipom the west, is the tomb of Captain
Cornewall, who fell in the sea-fight off Toulon, 1748 ; this being the first monument
voted by Parliament for naval services.
Next is the statue of the Bight Hon. James Craggs^ the firiend of Pope and Addi-
son; and Bird's bust-monument to Congreve, the great dramatic poet, erected at the ex-
pense of Henrietta Duchess of Marlborough, to whom Congreve, '* for reasons not known
or not mentioned," bequeathed 10.0002. Among the noticeable personages interred
here, without memorials!, is Dean Atterbury — ^the place his own previous choice, being,
asjie told Pope^ " as fiir firom kings and ksesars as the space will admit of;" also Mra.
Oldfield, the actress, buried ''in a very fine Brussels-lace head, a Holland shift, with a
tnekor and double ruffles of the same lace, a pair of new kid gloves," &c. ; to which
Fbpe thus alludes ^—
" Odioas I In woollen I 'twould a saint provoke,
(Were the last words that poor Nardssa spoke) :
No^ let a charming chhitz and Brussels laoe
Wrap mT oold limns and shade my lifeless foce ;
One would not, sure, be fHghtftil when one's dead—
And— Bettj, give this cheek a little red."
Eastward is the sculptural burlesque deservedly known as "the Pancake Monument," to
Admiral Tyrrell, with its patchy clouds, coral rocks, cherubs, harps, palm-brandies, and
other allegorical absurdities. Between three successive windows are the monuments, by
Bonbiliac, of Lieut.-Gen. Hargrave, Mig.-Gen. Fleming, and Marshal Wade, all in the
oonventi<mal school of allegory. Next are a good bust, by Bird, of Sidney, Earl of
Godolphin, chief minister to Queen Anne; alto-relievo and figures to Lieut.-CoL
Townsend, killed by a cannon-ball at Ticonderago, in his 28th year ; and a monument,
by Bushnell, to Sir Palmes Fairbome, governor of Tangier, with inscription by Dryden.
We now reach the tomb of Migor Andr^, who was executed by the Americans as a spy
in 1780 ; his remains were removed here in 1821 : the bas-relief shows Andr^ as a
prisoner in the tent of Washington, with the bearer of a fiag of truce to solicit his
pardon. This monument was put up at the expense of Oeorge III. ; the heads of
the principal figures have been several times mischievously knocked ofi*, but as often
restored. The new pulpit, on the north side of the Nave, was designed by Scott, B.A.9
and executed by William Farmer. Its sculptural details are as follow :
The pulpit is composed principally of magneslan limestone from the Hansfldd Woodhonse quany.
It is octagonal, with a cqpping of red I>evon marble. The cornice is omamoited with leaves and
JSowcTB of the colnmUne. At the angles are figures of the four Evangelists and of St Peter and
SL Paol under canopies. In one panel is the Ace of our Lor<!^ in white marble, well sculptured by
Monro. In the other panels are lozenges containing circular medallions of mosedc work in different
coloared marbles. The capping of the string which runs round the bottom of the panels is of my
Derlyjahirsmacble t the string is ornamented with First Pointed foliage. The pulpitis supportea on
oolnmna of Deronshire maxble at the angles, and a larger one in the centre ; the capitals being of Earlr
Pointed charaoter. The columns of the staircase are of the same. The figures of the Apostles are well
OBved. The nave has been fitted for special Sunday services.
The Jeruiolem Chamber, a^oining the south tower of the Western front, is now
used as the Chapter-house. Its northern window has some stained glass, ten^,
Edward III. ; and here hangs the ancient portrait of Richard II. in the Coronation
chair. In the Jerusalem Chamber died Henry IV., brought from the Confessor's
Shrine in the Abbey in a fit of apoplexy, March 20, 1418. Being carried into this
Chamber, be asked, on rallying, where he was; and when informed, he replied, to use
the words of Shalupeare, founded on history —
** Laud be to Qod I even here my life most end :
It hath been pronhcsied to me manv years,
I should not die but in Jerusalem.*'
King Sewrjf IV,, Part 2, act iv. 10.4
136 CURIOSITIES OF LONDON.
Here the body of Congreve lay in state, before bia pompons funeral, at which noble-
men bore the pall. Here, too, Addison lay in state, before his burial in Henry YII.'s
Chapel, as pictured in Tldcell's elegy : —
"Can I foraet the dismal night that gave
Hy soul' Boest part for ever to the gnre ?
How lilent did liia old oompanions tread,
Bv midnight lamps, the maniions of the dead :
Throogh breathing sUktaes, then unheeded thin^ri ;
Tliroagh rows of warriors, and through walks of ainga,** See.
Hie Chapter-hoiue, an exquisitely beautiAil spedmen of medisBval Gothic architec-
ture, was originally built by Edward the Confessor; the existing walls are of the time
of Henry III. Fabric-rolls and other papers discovered by Mr. Burtt have proved
the very important fact that the Chapter-house, which is the latest part of the work'
of Henry III., was finished ready for glazing so early as 1253 ; and a Parliament was
held here in 1264. The Chapter-house was the moit usual place of meeting of the
House of Commons through the Middle Ages, until the dissolution of the Collegiate
body of St. Stephen had put the Royal Chapel of the Plantagenets at the disposal of
the Legislature. Originally lent by the Dean and Chapter of Westminster for the
casual use of Parliament, the building was quietly appropriated by the Tudors after i^e
reason of the loan had passed away. Boom was wanted for records, and the Chapter-
house provided a tempting expanse of wall space. So the rich tile floor was boarded
over, and thereby luckily preserved ; the traceried windows were gutted and walled
up ; the vaulted roof was demolished by some builder, after Wren had refused ,the job»
and the whole interior choked with reoeBses and galleries equally concealing wall-
painting and carved-work. Mr. Scott thus gives the detuls :
It is an octagon of 18 feet diameter, and had a vaulted roof, which was supported bj a central pillar
about 36 feet liigh. It is entirely of Purbeclc marble, and consists of a central shaft, surrounded by eight
subordinate shafts attached to it by three moulded bands. The capital, though of marble, is moet richlT
carved. . The doorway itself haa been truly a noble one. It was double, aivided by a single central
pillar and a circle in the head, whether pierced or containing sculpture cannot be ascertained, as it is
almost entirely destroyed. The jambs and arch are magnifloent. The former contains on the outer side
Ibur large shafts of Purbeclc marble; their cape are of the same material, and m<wt richly carved, and
the spaces between the shafts beautifhUy foliated. The walls below the windows are occupied by
arcade d stalls, with trefoiled heads. The five which occupy the eastern side are of superior riclmeas and
more deeply recessed. Their capitals, carved in Purbeck marble, are of exquiaito beauty. The spandrels
over the arch are diapered, usually with the square diaper so fluent in the church, but in one in-
stance with a beautifhlly executed patten of roses. One of the most remarkable features in the Chapter-
house is the painting at the back of the stalls. The general idea represented by this painting would
appear to be our Lord exhibiting the mysteries of the Hedemption to tne heavenly host. In the central
compartment our Lord sits enthroned ; His hands are held up to show the wounds, and Uie chest bared
for tne same purpose; above are angels holding a curtain or dosael, behind the throne, and on either
aide are others bearing the instruments of the Passion. The whole of the remaining spaces are filled
by throngs of cherubim and seraphim. The former occupv the most important position, and are on
the large scale. And on one of its sides is a statue called *' St. John," said to be one of the oldest
sculptures in the Abbev. This waa a beautifhlly-decorated building, with painted walls and coloured
and gilded arcades, and high arched windows in seven of its sides, now sadly obscured.
The restoration of the Chapter-house has veiy properly been undertaken by the
Govemmenty under the direction of Mr. Scott. Beneath the present building, the
walls of which are 5 feet thick, is a crypt with walls of the enormous thickness of 17
feet. From a straight joint which separates the lower wall into two concentric por-
tions, Mr. Scott is of opinion that the bulk of the subterranean masonry is of the date
of the Confessor, the foundation having been enlarged for the new chapter-house of
King Henry III., which was coeval with the Sainte Chapelle in Paris. The crypt is called
the Chapel of the Confessor, but is part of the original Norman chiurch. The crypt
contains an altar, a piscina, and aumbry. The outer walls are of a great thickness,
and solid masonry. There are no indications, as is the case in many crypts, of iron
rings for the suspension of lamps. Here is the Library of the Dean and Chapter,
(about 11,000 volumes) : it was formed from the monks' parlour by Dean Williams,
whose portrait hangs at the south end. The great treasure of the place was- William
the Conqueror's Domesday Book,* in excellent condition, from searchers not being
* On the night of the burning of the Houses of Parliament, in 1834, Sir Francis Pa'grave and Dean
Ireland were sundingon the roof of the Chapter-house, looking at the fire, when a sudden gust of wind
seemed to bring the flames in that direction. Sir Francis implored the I>ean to allow him to carry
Dometday Book and other valuable records into the Abbey, but the Dean answered tliat he could not
think of doing so without first applying to Lord Melbourne or the Board of Worksl
OEUBCEES^-WBSTMINSTEB ABBEY. 137
tlloved to toach the text» or writing. Here, too, were Clement the Seventh's Golden
BaD, conferring the title of Defender of the Faith on Henry YIII. ; a treaty of per-
petual peace hetween Henry YIII. and Francis I., with a gold seal, 6 inches diameter,
sud to be the work of Cellini ; the original wills of Richard II., Henry V., Henry YIII. ;
lod the Indenture hetween Henry YII. and the Abhot of Westminster, a gloriona
tptdmtxi of mimatore-peinting and velvet binding, with enamelled and g^lt bosses.
CloUter9^ — Sooth— lie four of the early Abbots of Westminster. Here is « Long
Meg," a slab of bine marble, traditionally the gravestone of twenty-six monks who
died of the Flagne in 1349, and were buried in one grave. Here is a tablet to William
Uwrenoe^ whidi records :
** Short-band he wrote : bis Flowre hi prime did fiide.
And hasty Death Shori>hand of him hath made.
Well cooth he Nv'bers, and well meeur'd Land;
ThvB doth he now that Grovd whereon yov stand.
Wherein he lyes bo Geometricall :
Alt maketh some, bvt thrs will Natvre all."
This qpuaat conc^t is in the North Walk ; where also are the graves of Spranger
Barry, the actor, famons in Othello ; and Sir John Hawkins, who wrote a History of
Mudc, and a Life of Doctor Johnson.
East Walk : medallion monoment to Bonnell Thornton (*< the Connoisseur")* inscrip-
tion by Joseph Warton ; monument to Lieut.-6en. Withers, with inscription by Pope,
" full of commonplaces, with something of the common cant of a superficial satirist "
(Johfuon); tablet to Sir Edmund Berry Godfrey (d. 1678,) buried m St. MartinVin-
the-Fields ; graves of Aphra Bebn, the lady dramatist (temp. Charles I.) ; and Mrs.
Braoegvdle, the fascinating actress.
West Walk : bust and alto-relievo, by Banks, B.A., to William Woollett, the engraver,
buried in Old St. Pancras* churchyard : tablets to George Yertue, the engraver ; Dr.
Bochan, who wrote on ** Domestic Medicine i" and Benjamin Cooke, organist of the
Abbey, with the murical score of " the Canon by twofold augmentation " graven
vpon the slab.
In the Cloisters, too, are interred Henry Lawes, the composer of the music of Comus,
ind "one who called Milton friend;" Tom Brown, the wit; Thomas Betterton, who
"ought to he recorded with the same respect as Boscius among the Romans ;" Samuel
Foote, the actor, and dramatist ; Aphra Bebn, above-mentioned, Thomas Betterton,
Mrs. Bracegirdle, Samuel Foote, Mrs. Yates, Mrs. Rowe, and Mrs. Cibber, all well-known
professors of the dramatic art ; so that the Cloisters may be termed the Actorif Comer,
Here is a wall monument^ with this inscription : —
" Sir Edmnnd Bury Godflrer, Kt.
• • •
being lost on the 4 Id. Octob. 1678
was found five days after
mordered after a most cruel and barbaroua manner.
Histoiy will inform you further."
At the entrance of the Little Clcnsters is Litlington Tower, built by Abbot Litllng-
toD, and originally the bell-tower of the Church :* the four bells were rung, and a
■mall flag hoisted on the top of this tower (as appears in Hollar's view), when great
meetings or prayers took place m St. Catherine's Chapel ; pulled down 1571. The bells
(one dated 1480, and two 1598) were taken down, and, with two new bells, were
bong in one of Wren's western towers. Litlington Tower was restored by its tenant,
Hr. R. CUrk, one of the choir, who also erected in its front the original Gothic en-
trance to the Star-Chamber Court, and its ancient iron bell-pull.
Mr. Scott has recently discovered an old hall of the date of Abbot LitHngton, no
^bt the hall of the Infiiinarer's house, and probably used by the convalescent patients.
Tlie garden now called the College Garden, was originally the Infirmary garden.
Tbere are preserved several models of churches, one of which is the model con-
structed by Sir Christopher Wren, in the reign of Queen Anne, of his proposed
* An author of the fourteenth century lays: "At the Abbey of St. Peter's, Westminster, ure two
^^ which over all the bells in the world obta^ the precedence m wonderfhl site and tone." We read
■>ho. that *' in the monasterye of Westminster ther was a tKji yong man which was blynde, whom the
■NNiks hadde ordeyned to rynge the bellys."
133 GUBI08ITIE8 OF LONDON.
alteration of the Abbey Church, by erecting an elevated spire on the central tower.
We believe that the other models are those of St. Mary's and St. Clement'a in the
Strand, St. Paul's, Covent-garden, and St. John's, Westminster, Here are also, it is
said, some models by Boubiliac.
Mtuio, — In 1764 took place the " Commemoration of Handel,*' in the Abbey Nave ;
and sinular festivals in 1785-6-7, and 1790-91 ; and in 1834 was a Four Days' Festival,
commencing June 24, when King William IV., Queen Adelaide, and the Princess
Victoria, were present
** It to ftill fiftj years since I heard last.
Handel, thy solemn and divinest strain
Boll throoffh the long nave of this idllar'd fane.
Now seemuig as if soaroe a year had paw'd."— TT. Li$l$ BowJe$t 1834L
Oct 28, 8t. Simon and St, Jude, Anniversary of the birth of Thomas Tallts cele-
brated ; his Cathedral Service performed at morning prayers. Tallis was organist to
Henry YIII., Edward YI., Queen Mary, and Elizabeth.
Organs, — The small organ, the oldest, was repaired by Father Smith, in 1694 : this
organ is represented in the prints of the Choir of the Abbey, at the oorouatioa of
James II., in Sandford's Book of the Coronation. It was placed under one of the
arcbff on the north ude of the Choir, and had a small prqjeciing organ-loft over the
Stalls. The larger organ, bnUt by Schreider, who succeeded Sdtunidt, about 1710, as
organ-builder to the Bcyal Cbapels, is a very Une instrument. " Mr. Turle's accom-
paniment of the Choral Service is quite a model of that kind of organ playing."—
A Short Account of Organs, 1847.
Tombt.-^The numerous spedmens of early Italian decorative art make Westminster
Abbey the richest church north of the Alps. The tomb of William de Valence is stated
to be a French work, probably executed by an enameller from Limoges. Labarte, in his
JEandbooJe of the Arts of the Middle Ages, after quoting a document cited by Mr.
Albert Way, which tells us that an artist of Limoges, " Magister Johannes Limovi-
censisy" was employed about the year 1276, to construct the tomb and effigy of Walter
de Merton, Bishop of Oxford, says : — " This curious monument was despoiled of its
enamelled metal at the Reformation, but there still exists in England an evidence of
the high repute in which the enamelled work of Limoges was held, in the effigy of
William de Valence, in Westminster Abbey. There can be no doubt that this curious
portraiture was produced by an artist of Limoges." The effigy is of wood, overlaid
with enamelled and engraved copper, and includes an enamelled shield displaying
twenty-eight bars^ alternately argent and agure, diapered ; or, rather, ornamented
with inlaid scroll- work ; and having nineteen martlets, gules, displayed around the
circumference of the shield. Mr. Scott observes : —
Taking the tombs of the Confessor, of Henry III.» and his dan^hter, and of yoong de Valence, in
connexion with the pavement before the high altar, and that of the Confessor's Chapel, I should doubt
whether— I will not say any chordi north of the Alps— bat, I may almost asj, wnether any country
north of the Alps contains such a moss of early Italian decorative art; indeed, the very artists em-
ployed appear to have done their utmost to increase the value of the works th^ were bequeathing to
U8,>y giving to the mosaic work the utmost possible variety of pattern.
The tombs at Westminster have been at least spared from the hand of the early
restorers, if not from the destroyers. The earliest tomb erected after the completion
of the new Choir was that of the beautiful little dumb princess, daughter of Henry IIL»
who died 1257, in her fifth year.
Fainted and Stained Glass. — (Ancient.) North Aisle of Nave, figure, said to be
Edward the Confessor ; South Aisle, given to the Black Prince, Edward III., and
Richard II. See also clerestory windows east of Choir, east window of Henry VII.'s
Chapel, and Jerusalem Chamber. — (Modem.) Great west window, the Patriarchs ;
large rose window. North Transept, Apostles and Evangelists — a noble mass of brilliant
colour and delicate stone tracery ; marigold window in South Transept (put up in 1847)>
figures nearly three feet high ; also windows above Henry Vll.'s Chapel, and in east
end of triforium. The lost original tracery of the great rose windoivs of the Tran-
septs has been imaginatively restored from the pattern of some encaustic paving-tiles
still remaining in the Chapter-house. Amongst the recent works set up in the Abbey,
must be mentioned, too, a smaU painted glass window, in the East Aisle of that Tran-.
sept, by Lavers and Barraud, commemorative of Vincent Novello, musiGftl composer:
CRUBCHES^-WESTMINSTEB ABBEY, 139
tbe sabfect is St. Cedifia. Here ib the St^heiuon memorial — a window filled with
ftained glass, bj Waales : m the body are represented some of the greatest archi-
teetural and engineering works ; and above these, at the top of the window, are in
fiTe-foil, baat-iK>rtraita of eminent engineers. Robert Stephenson is placed in the
centre ; above, bis &ther, George Stephenson ; on one side, Thomas Telford ; on the
other, John Smeaton ; and below these, James Watt and John Rennie. The aichi-
teetoral works represented are bordered with ornamental traoery, and consist of, on
the one half of the window, the Ark, the erecting of tbe Tabernacle, the first Temple^
the seoond Temple, and Menai Bridge; and on the other half, the bidding of Nineveh,
the Treasure Cities of Egypt, Aipednct near Pjgro, the Colosseum at Rome, and the
High-Level Bridge at Newcastle.
Jfeia^-HTorir.— -There are five examples of metal-work remaining in the Abbey
Chnrch. These are the grille at the top of the tomb of Qoeen Eleanor, lately rdn-
stated by Mr. Scott; the railing ronnd Archbishop Langham's eiBgy; that at the
west end of the Chantry of Henry Y. ; the brass or copper gates of Henry YII.'s
Chapel ; and the beantifnl brass grille ronnd the tomb of the latter King. The
metal-work that protected the tomb of Qaeen Philippe, that *'most gentyll qnene'*
of Edward III., had previously kept guard round the tomb of a bishop in St. Paul's
Caibcdna ; this and the railing of Edward Va are, however, lost to us. In 1822 the
Dean and Chapter ordered tbe removal of most of the railings around the tombs;
aitboogh some of the metal-work then taken down has been discovered in the vestry.
Across the Transept, looking north, new ironwork has been put up from the desigpis
of Mr. Scott. The gate and the grille is fbr the most part of wrought iron ; it is 30 fetet
in length on each ade, and was executed by Potter, for the sum of 700Z.
Brasaet, — ^Tfaere are still fifteen Brasses in the Church : the principal are in tbe
Chapels of St. Edmund, St. John the Baptist, and Edward the Confessor.
Tbe present conservating architect of the Abbey is Mr. George Gilbert Scott, RJL
Tbe following are the principal AdmeasuremenU .*^
iToM.— Tjsngfth, 106 ft. : breadth, 38 ft. 7 In. ; height, 101 ft. 8 in. ; breadth of aisles, 16 ft. 7 In. ; es>
treme breadth of nave and its aisles, 71 ft. 9 in.
Cabotr.— Length, 156 ft. 9 in. ; breadth, 38 ft. 4 in. ; height. 101 ft. 2 in.
2VtBwrpte.— Length of both, indading choir, 208 feet. 2m. ; length of each transept, 83 ft. 6 in.;
breadth, inrlnding both alslea, 84 ft 8 in. ; height of sonth transept, 106 ft. 6 in.
Interior. — ^Extreme length, from weatem towers to the piers of Henry VXI.'a Chapel, 383 ft.; sdb*
treme length, from western towers, inclndinff Henry VII.'s Chapel, 611 ft. 6 in.
ExUrior^—Exireme length, ezchisivo of Henry YIL's Chapel, 416 ft. ; extreme length, inclusive of
Henry Tll'a Chapel, 630 ft. ; height of western towers, to top oTpmnadee, 226 ft. 4 in.
Hemr^ VllJt CkaptL Extenor.—hengih, 116 ft. 2 in.; extreme breadth, 79 ft. 6 in. ; height to raes
of roof; 96 ft. 6 in. ; height to top of western turrets, 101 ft. 6 in. (ItUtrior.y—VKre : length, 103 ft. 9 in. s
breadth, 36 ft. 9in.; height, 69 ft.7m. Aisles : length, 62 fL 6in.; breadth, 17 ft 1 in.; height of west
window, 46 ft.
Adm»uai(m.—Th» Abbey Is open to the public between the hours of 11 and 3, generally : and In snnii-
mer, between 4 and 6 in the afternoon. Therv is no chaise for admission to the Navei Transepl^ and
CloUten; but the fee for admission to Tlew the Choir and Chapels, and the rest of tne Abbey, is 6d.
eaeh person, with the attendance of a guide. The entrance is at Poets' Comer. The admisslon-monsy
was originally 16J. each person, when it ususUt produced npwarda of 1600i. per annum, mostly distrt
beted among the minor canons, organiste, and lai-clerks.
Tbe Chapter is composed of a Dean and eight Canons ; there are ax minor canons^
twelve lay vicars, and twelve choristers. There are two daily services — choral — and a
weekly celebration of the Holy Commnnion. The capitular revenue was, in 1862»
30,657/. ; and the expenditure on the fabric in fourteen preceding years, 29,949/.
" In Westminster Abbey," observes Horace Walpole, " one thinks not of the build-
ing : the reli^on of the place makes the first impression.'' One more walk through
its aisles was the dying wish of the exile Atterbury. " Westminster Abbey or
Victory V* were the watchwords which fired the heart of Nelson himself. From the
design of applying the Abbey property, under the care of Sir T. Wroth, to the repairs
of St. Paul's, on the dissolution of the bi»hopric, came the cant proverb to rob Peter
to pay JPaul. The following is from a thoughtful and eloquent paper by Dean Stanley :
" The Abbey of Westminster owes its traditions and its present name, revered in the
bosoms of the people of England, to the fiict that the early English Kings were interred
within its walls, and that through its asiKxaations our Norman rulers learnt to forget
their foreign paternity, and to unite in fellowship and affection with their Saxon
felloir-dtizens. There is no other church in the world, except, perhaps, the Knimlin
140 CURIOSITIES OF LONDON.
at Moscow, with which Royalty ia bo intimately associated. There oar Sovereigns are
crowned and buried under the same roof, whereas in Bossia the coronation takes place
in one church, the marriage in another, while a third is reserved for the reception of
the dead. It was in the reign of Henry III. that the Abbey began to assume that
national character whidi now belongs to it so fully. The thhrd Henry was the first
thoroughly English King after the Conquest — that is to say, the first who was bom
in England, and who never rended in Normandy. The Abbey never possessed a
bishop's throne, except for a short time in the reign of Henry YIIL, and so was not a
cathedral in the ordinary sense ; but from the time of Edward I. it always contained
the Coronation Chair, in which is fixed ' the fatal stone of Scone.' This throne, which
gives to the Abbey the constructive character of a cathedral, has never since the time
of the first Edward been removed from the church except once, and that was in the
time of Oliver Cromwell — so jealous were the people of monarchical attributes and
privileges." The Dean then traces the burial-places of our Kings and Queens from the
time of Henry III. to Elizabeth's reig^; ** after the death of the latter, tombs ceased to
be erected in the Abbey to the memories of Sovereig^ns. This was owing to the pecu-
liar course of succession, for none of the monarchs from the Tudors to those of the
Hanoverian dynasty had any peculiar interest in honouring the names of their prede-
cessors. The second George was the last of our Kings who was buried in the Abbey ; but
another of Royal blood, though of a different dynasty and a different country, had found
lus last resting therein — the Duke de Montpensier, younger brother of Louis Philippe.''
More striking than the edifice and its general associations are its personal monu-
ments and contents. Here, for example, beyond a doubt,, lies the body of the Con-
fessor himself, like the now decayed seed from which the wonderful pile has grown.
Around his shrine are clustered not only the names but the earthly relics of the prin-
cipal actors in every scene of our history. No less than seventeen of our Kings, from the
Confessor to George II., and ten of our Queens, lie within the Abbey, amid statesmen,
poets, divines, scholars, and artists. " It has," says Mr. Scott, " claims upon us archi-
tects— I will not say of a higher but of another character, on the ground of its in-
trinsic and superlative merits, as a work of art of the highest and noblest order; for,
though it is by no means pre-eminent in general scale, in height^ or in richness of
sculpture, there are few churches in this or any other country, having the same exqui-
site charms of proportion and artistic beauty which this church possesses."
On Dec. 28, 1865, being tlie Feast of the Holy Innocents, and just 800 years since
the dedication of the Abbey by Edward the Confessor, the Dean and Chapter com-
memorated the event by special services and the celebration of the Holy Communion.
The sermon, eloquently descriptive, was preached by the Dean (Dr. Stanley) from
John x. 21, 22 : " And it was at Jerusalem, the feast of the dedication, and it waa
winter. And Jesus walked in the temple in Solomon's porch."
The whole of the music was selected from composers who either in the past or present were connected
with the Abbey— namely, Thomas Tallis, who died in 1686, organist to Henry VlII. ; Henry Porcell,
organist of Westminster Abbey, who died in 1695, and was buried in the north aisle } William Croft,
organist of Westminster Abbey, who died in 1727, and was also buried in the norui aide ; Georj^
Frederick Handel, who died in 1769, and was buried in the south transept; Benjamin Cooke, organist
of Westminster Abbev, who died in 1793, and was buried in the west cloister ; J. L. Bxownsmith, John
Foster, and Montem Smith, vicars choral; and James Turle, organist, all of Westminster Abbey. The
words of the hymn for the introit, commencing " Hark, the sound of holy voices," were written by Dr.
Wordsworth, Canon and Archdeacon of Westminster, and the tune for it, entitled '* All Saints," waa
composed by Mrs. Frere, niece of the late Rev. Temple Frere, Canon of Westminster.
Chapel Royal, St. James's Palace, is intuated on the western side hetween the
Colour Court and the Ambassadors' Court. It is oblong in plan, with aide galleries,
the Royal Gallery being at the west end.
The superb ceiling, painted by Holbein in 1540, is one of the earliest specimens of the new style
introduced by him into England. The rib-mouldings are of wooden frame-work, suspended to the roof
above ; the panels have plaster grounds, the centres displaying the Tudor emblems and devices. The
suUect is gilt, shaded boldly with bistre; the roses glazed with a red oc^our, and the arms emblaaoned
in their proper colours ; leaves, painted dark green, ornamented each sufciject ; the general ground of
the whole was light blue. The mouldings of the ribs are painted green, and some are gilt; the under
side is a dark blue, on which is a smidl open running ornament ^»st in lead), gilt. The ceiling has
undergone several repairs, in one of which the blue ground was painted white. In 1836, when the
chapel was enlarged under the direction of Sir Robert Smirke, the blue ground was discovered, as were
likewise some of the mottoes in the small panels; thus, "btbt x>ixt vhlix: hbhsioq bzz 8 — h. a.
TIVAT. aax. 1640. dibv. bt. ko. dboit," &c.
Divine Service is performed here as at our Cathedrals, by the gentlemen of the choir«
CHUBGHE8 AND CHAPELS. 141
ind ten diariflten (boys). The establiahment oonsista of a Dean (usually the Blabop
of London), the Sub-Dean, Lord High Almoner, Sub-Almoner, Clerk of the Queen's
Closet, depaty-clerksy chaplains, priests, organists, and composer ; besides violist and
latanist (now sinecures), and other officers ; and until 1833, there was a " Confesnor to
the Royal Hoosebold." Each of the Chaplains in Ordinary preaches once a year in
the Chapel Boyal. The hours of service are 8 Ajf. and 12 noon. There are seats for
the nobility, admisnon-fee 2«. Qeorge 111., when in town, attended this Chapel, when
t nobleman carried the sword of state before him, and heralds, pursulvants-at-arms,
and other officers, walked in procession ; and so persevering was his attendance at
prajers, that Madame d'Arblay, one of the robing-women, tells us, in November 17779
the Queen and family, dropping off one by one, used to leave the King, the parson,
and His Majesty's equerry, to " freeze it out together." In this Chapel were married
Prince Geoi^ of Denmark and the Princess Anne ; Frederick Prince of Wales and the
daughter of the Duke of Saxe-Gk)tha; Qeorge IV. and Queen Caroline; and Queen
Victoria and Prince Albert. Before the building of the Chapel at Buckingham
Bnlace, Her Majesty and the Court attended the Chapel Royal, St. James's. The
lUver candelabra and other altar-plate are magnificent. The fittings of the Chapel
and Pslaoe fbr the last royal marriage cost 9226Z. The Chapel is supposed to be the
same building that was used when St. James's Palace was first founded as an Hospital
for fourteen leprous females.
In the Liher Ifiger Domm Stgtd (i^mp. Edward IV.) is an ordhumee naming "Chndren of the
Chapdie viij. flran^en by tbe Kin^s pnvie oofferes fat all that longeth to their apperelle by the handa
•nd orenyi^te of the deane, or by the master of song aoaigned to teaohe them ;*' such beinir the orighi
of the preient musical ettabliahment of the Chapel Boyal. Ordinancea were also iasned for toe imprtat-
meni ^hoft for the royal choirs : in 1560, the master of the King's Chapel had liceoBe '*to take up from
time to tfane children to serve the King's ChapeL'* Tosaer, the " Haaoandiie" poet, was, when a boy.
in Eliabeth's reign, thus Impressed for the Queen's Chapel. The Gentlemen and Children of the Chapel
Bojal were the prrndpal porformers in the religions dramas or Mygterim and a "master of the
childTm," and " singing cmldren," occur in the chapel establishment of Cardinal Wolsey. In 1683, the
Childien (tf the Chapel Boyal, afterwards called the Children of the ReTels, were formed into a company
of players, and thns were among the earliest performers of the regular drama. In 1731, they performed
Handel's JEMWr, the first oratono heard in England ; and they oontinned to assist at oratorios in Lent,
w Jong as those performances nudntained their ecclesiastical character entire.
"Spur-moneiy," a fine upon all who entered the chapel with spurs on, was formerly levied by the
elioristen at th« doors, upon condition thapt the youngest of them could repeat his ffamut ; if he failed,
the ipor-bearer waa exempt In a tract dated 1696, the choristers are reproved for '* hunting after spur*
moDt^ i" and tlie ancient Cheque-book of the Chapel Boyal, dated 1822, containa an order of the Dean,
derredng the enstom. " Within mv recollection/' wrote Dr. Bimbanlt in 1860, " the Duke of Welling-
ton (who^ by the wav, is an excellent muaicianj entered the 'BxxjtX Cnapel 'booted and spurred,' and
*>•. of coarse* caUea upon for the fine. Bnt his Grace calling upon the youngest diorister to repeat
Us gamut, and the ' little urchin' Ming, the impost waa not demanded."— ifo<«t and Qfuri—, No. 90.
Chapsl Hotai^ Whitehall, the Banqueting House of the Palace, designed by
Inigo Jones, commenced June 1, 1619, finished March 81, 1622, cost 14,940/. 4f. Id,
Tbe above hall was converted into a Chapel in the reign of George I., who, in 1724,
■ppointed oertun preachers, mx from Oxford and six from Cambridge University,
to preach in successive months on the Sundays, at a salary of SO/., through the year.
The edifice has, however, never been consecrated as a Chapel, which fact was
mentioned in the House of Commons by Sir Robert Inglis, several years ago, when
it was proposed to use the Hall as a picture-gallery. It was shut up in 1829,
and remained closed till 1837, during which interval it was restored and refitted,
nnder the direction of Sir Robert Smirke, R.A. The lower windows were then
closed up, the walls were hung with drapery (1400 yards of drugget), and the fioor
cvpeted,to remedy the excessive echo. The Ouards formerly attended Divine Service
bere; they now attend at the Chapel in Wellington Barracks, St. James's Park ; and
tbe gallery in which they sat at Whitehall has been removed. The organ originally
plao^ here was sold by order of Cromwell, and is now in Stanford Church, Leicester-
■bire; tbe present organ is of subsequent date. The hall is exactly a double cube,
being 111 feet long, 55 feet 6 inches high, and 55 feet 6 inches wide. Over the prin-
<^P>1 doorway is a bronze bust of James I., attributed to Le Sceur ; above is the
^'i^ui-loft, and along the two sides is a lofty gallery. Above the altar were formerly
placed eagles and other trophies taken from the French at Barossa, in Egypt, and at
^■terloo; bat they have been removed to Chelsea Hospital. The Whitehall ceiling
^ divided into panels, and painted blacky and gilded in parts. These are lined with oil
U2 CURI08ITIEJ8 OF LONDON.
pictures on canTas, painted abroad by Rabens in 1685, it is stated for 3000^., by oom-
xnisnon from Charles I. There are nine compartments : the largest in the centre,
oral, contains the apotheosis of James I^ who is trampling on the globe, and aboat to
fly on the wings of Jnstioe (an eagle) to heaven.* On the two long sides of it are
great friezes, with genii, who load sheaves of com and fruits in carriages drawn by
Hons, bears^ and rams : each of the boys measures 9 feet. The northernmost of the
large compartments represents the King pointing to Peace and Plenty, embracing
Minerva, and routing BebelUon and Envy ; at the south end (the altar) the King is on
the throne, appointing Prince Charles his successor. The four comer pictures are
allegorical representations of Royal Power and Virtue. The whole are best viewed
from the south end of the apartment. Dr. Waagen connders these pictures to have
been principally executed by the pupils of Rubens : they have undergone restora-
tions : in 1687, under the direction of Sir Christopher Wren ; and about 1811, by
Cipriani, who was paid 20001. Yandyck was to have painted the sides of the
Banqueting House with the history and procession of the Order of the Garter. Divine
Service is performed in the Chapel on Sundays, Saints' Days, &c, the gentlemen and
choristers of the Chapels Royal executing the musical service. The Maundy is dis-
tributed in this Chapel on the day preceding Qood Friday, J^aundjf Thursday. — (See
Alkokbt, p. 7.) The Royal closet is large and massive, ntuated on the right-hand
nde in the centre of the Chapel, opposite the pulpit. King William lY. and Queen
Adelaide often attended this Royal Chapel, and it is said that the King was here pre-
sent for the last time at a public service only six weeks before his death. The Royal
closet is described in the reports as being within a few feet of the spot on which King
Charles I. was executed. This is hardly correct; for, according to a memorandum of
Yertue, on a print in the library of the Society of Antiquaries, through a window be-
longing to a small building abutting from the north side of the present Banqueting
House, the King stepped upon the scaffold, "which was equal to the landing-place of
the Hall within side." The Soifle Lectures, founded by the Hon. Robert Boyle for
proving the truth of the Christian religion against notorious infidels are sometimes
delivered in the Chapel Royal. For many years these lectures were delivered in the
City churches, where scarcely half a dozen persons could be obtained to listen to them.
The preachers are enjoined to perform the office following : — " To preach eight sermons
in the year for proving the Christian religion against notorious infidels — viz.. Atheists,
Theists, Pagans, Jews, and Mahometans, not desoending lower to any controversies
that are among Christians themselves."
Chapel Royal^ Satot, in the rear of the south side of the Strand, occupies a site
granted by King Henry III.; in 1245, to Peter Count of Savoy (hence its name) on his
arrival to visit his niece Queen Eleanor. It was afterwards possessed by Edmund, Earl
of Lancaster (1267), and John of Gaunt^ during whose tenure of it the palace was
destroyed ; after which, being inherited by his son, Henry I Y., it was vested in the
Crown as part of the Duchy of Lancaster, and thus acquired its peculiar dignities and
privileges as a Royal manor. An Hospital was erected in the Savoy under the will of
Henry YIL, and in the reign, of Henry YIII. a perpetual Hospital was incorporated.
This was one of the institutions declared to be illegal in the 1st of Edward YI., and it
was given up to the King. It was re-established in the fourth year of Philip and
Mary, but was converted into a military hospital and marine infirmary in the reign of
Charles II., and shortly afterwiirds was used as a barrack. The Hospital was, there-
fore, dedaied to be dissolved in 1702.
8ti7pe» in his edition of Sto^s Survey, 1766, says: "In the year 1687, Schools were aet up and
ordained here at the Savoy; the masters whereof were Jeaaits;" the claaaea soon conaiated of 400 ooys,
about one-half of whom were Protestants ; the latter were not required to attend masa. All were taught
gratis, buying only their own pens, ink, paper, and books ; and in teaching no distinction was made,
nor was any one to be persuaded ftom the profession of his own religion ; yet they were generally success-
tal in promoting the Roman religion. The Schools were, howorer, soon dJasolVed upon the oeaaing of
the government of King James. And the clock that was made for the oae of the Savoy School, was
bought and set up upon a, gentleman's house in Low Layton. The CoWege gave rise to many other
Bchools in the metropolis : the Blue Coat School, in St Margaret's, Westminster, is one of these. There
is a contemporary ballad, entitled " Religious Beliques ; on the Sale at the Savoy, upon the Jesuits
breaking up their School and ChapeL"— Printed in 2fote9 and Querie$, 2nd S., No. 14^ Jan. 1866.
* Bnbens'a original sketch is in the National Gallery, TrafUgar-squaro.
0HUBCEE8 A2U) CHAPELS, 143
Sereral peraoDs of note are buried here, and had figure monnments. Among them
one, in the cbanoel, of Sir Robert Douglas and his lady (seventeenth century).
In a pointed niche was the figure of a lady kneeling — Jocosa, daughter of Sir Allan
Apsley, Lieutenant of the Tower, sister of Mrs. Hutchinson. In the western wall,
near the altarpieoe, was an ornamental recess, in the back of which had been effigies
incised in brass ; and near this was a small tablet to the memory of Anne Killigrew,
daughter of one of the Masters of the Savoy, and niece to the well-known jester. This
WB8 the lady described by Dryden as '* A g^race for beauty and a muse for wit.''
Over the door was a small kneeling figure, with a skull in her hands, inscribed *' Alicia
Steward.^ A recumbent figure was, it is thought, improperly named the Countess
Dowager of Nottingham. Here, also, is a brass over the grave of Ghiwin Douglas, who
translated Virgil ; and here rest George Wither, the poet, without a monument; the
Earl of FeveraJ^am, who commanded King James II.'s troops at the Battle of Sedgmoor ;
snd Dr. Cameron, the last person who suffered for the Rebellion of 1746, to whom
Wis erected a marble relief tablet by his great-grandson, in 1846, " one hundred years
ifter the Battle of CuUoden." Here^ also, was placed a tablet to the memory of
Richard Lander, the traveller in Africa; and in the burial-ground is the tomb of
Hilton, R.A., the historical painter, whose works were barely appreciated in his lifetime.
hkfbe Chapel was a monument; rtiher samptuoas, erected about 1716, In honour of a merchant; the
xne Dreadtn or tue maroie, tne money was expressed m ngnres, lost as m a page or a ledger, witn lines
cinrie and doable^ perpendienlar and, at the bottom, honzontal; the whole being sammed ap» and In
taok Une two cjrphen for ahilUngs and one for pence. The epitaph oondnded, ''which som was duly
paid by hJa executora."
The Savoy was last used as barracks and a prison for deserters until 1819, when
the premises were taken down to form the approach to Waterloo Bridge. The
roadway to the Bridge from the Strand, or Wellington-street and Lancaster-place,
covers the entire site of the old Duchy-lane and great part of the HospitaL We see
the river front of the Savoy in Hollar's prints and Canaletti's pictures ; and Vertue's
ground-plan shows the Middle Savoy CHte, where Savoy-street now is ; and the Little
Savoy Qate, where now are Savoy-steps. Ackermann published a view of the ruins as
they were ia their last condition, before they were swept away. The pulling down of
the ruins, in 1816, when the chapel was left isolated, was a work of immense labour,
80 masuve was the masonry. Not the least amusing incident was that of the gamins
picting out the softest parts of the Royal palace widls and cutting them into hearth-
stones to clean hearths and the steps before doors !
The Chapel is a parochial benefice in the gift of her Majesty, in right of her Duchy
of Lancaster ; it was endowed by Henry VII., and the incumbent to this day receives
an annual fee by Royal warrant. The interior dimensions of the chapel are 90 ft. by
24 ft,; its style English Perpendicular, late and plain, except the ceiling, which was
rid] and coloured, and one of the finest pieces of carved work in the metropolis.
It was wholly of oak and pear tree, and divided into 138 qnatrefoil panels, each enriched wifli a
t sacred or historical. The
ges had eacn a snieid m tne centre prew
featare or emblem of the Passion and I>eath of the Saviour ; and all deyised and arranged in a sljle of
earred ornament sacred or historical. The panels numbered twenty-three In the length of the chapel
"lad eac
and six in its width. Ten of the ranges had each a shield in the centre presenting in high relief some
featare or emblem of the Passion and I>eath of the Saviour ; and all deyised and arranged in a sljle of
which there are many examples in sacred edifices in the fifteenth and sixteenth centuries. The panels
throQghottt the rest of the celling contained bearings or badges indicating the varions families from
wliieh the Boyal lineage was derived, and more particularly the aJliances of the house of Lancaster, eadi
paael beins siimnmded by a wreath richly blaxoned and tinted with the livery colours of the different
aodliee. Por a long series of years ther were hidden under repeated coats of whitewash, but in 1848
Mr. John Cochrane, a bookseller in the Strand, having been appointed chapel warden, brought his
aatiqaazian knowledge to bear on the neglected ceiling, and it was restored.
The Savoy has a certain literary aspect : all Proclamations, Acts of Parliament and
Gazettes, used to issue from the Royal Printing-press established in the prednct ; and
there Fuller lectured, if he did not write his Worthiet, It was in the Chapel, also,
that the memorable Conference between the Episcopalian and Presbyterian divines on
the Book of Common Prayer was held in 1661. Here many of the bishops were con-
secrated, and among them Wihon, Bishop of Sodor and Man, by Archbishop Sharpe,
in 1698 ; and among those who have held the benefice was Dr. Anthony fiomeck,
the favourite chaplain of King William III.
The Savoy prednct became as notorious for thieves and beg^gars, as for the lame^
144 CURIOSITIES OF LONDON.
the Bick, and the vagabond, who considered themselves privileged to claim socooar
from the Master of the Hospital of the Savoy, an office which was much coveted, and
which Cowley straggled ineffectually to obtain. While the Dntch, German, and
French congregations met qnietly within the precinct, a favonr which was originally
owing to Charles II., all sorts of unseemly marriages were celebrated by the " Savoy
parsons," there being five private ways by land to this chapel, and two by water. The
Bev. Mr. Wilkinson, the fkther of Tate Wilkinson, the actor, for performing the illldt
ceremony, was informed ag^nst by Gkunck, and the reverend gentleman was transported.
A letter to Lord Bmrleigh in 1581, as to an ontbreak of rogues, states, " the chief
nurserie of all these evell people is the Savoy, and the brick kilnes near Islington."
The Chapel was built, in 1505, of squared stone and boulders, with a low bell-tower
and large Tudor windows ; and, standing in a small burial-ground, amid a few trees
and evergreens, it resembled the church of a rural hamlet ; it was all that remained
of the Hospital. Thither John, King of France, was brought prisoner from Foictiera
by Edward the Black Prince ; and there, in his " antient prison," King John died.
The chapel was originally dedicated to the Saviour, the Virgin, and St. John the
Baptist ; but when the old church of St. Mary-le-Strand was destroyed by the Pro-
tector Somerset, the parishioners united themselves to the precinct of the Savoy, and
the chapel, being used as their church, acquired the name of St. Mary-le-Savoy,
though before the householders beyond the precinct were permitted to use it as their
parish church they signed an Instrument renouncing all daim to any right or property
in the chapel itself. There is a tradition that when the Liturgy in the vernacular
tongue was restored by Queen Elizabeth, the chapel of the Savoy was the first place
in which the service was performed.
The Chapel Royal was restored chiefly through the instrumentality of George IV.
The interior wai destroyed by fire, but was repaired at the expense of Queen Victoria,
in 1848 ; the fine ceiling was restored and emblazoned by Willement, by whom it has
been minutely illustrated. Mr. Willement also reglazed the altar-window. In the
lower centre was a figure of St. John the Baptist ; the side compartments conttuned
emblems of the other Evangelists ; and in other parts were the ducal coronet, the red
rose of Lancaster, and the lions, also fleurs-de-lis of the Plantagenet esoocheon, and
over all the inscription — " This window was glazed at the expense of the congregation,
in honour of God, and in gpmtitude to our Queen Victoria." The altar-screen, said to
have been the work of Sir Reginald Bray, was restored by Mr. Sydney Smirke, in
1843. In July, 1864, the Chapel was again destroyed by fire, save the walls ; the
fine altar-screen and window, the carved ceiling, and many of the old monuments,
were entirely consumed. It has been rebuilt at a cost of about 50002. (it was
insured for 4000Z.), under the superintendence of Mr. Sydney Smirke ; the roof has
been embellished much after the design of that which was destroyed, but diflerent
in detail ; the great window over the altar has been magnificently painted, and a fine
Organ erected at the southern end of the Chapel. Over the wmdow is a Latin inscrip-
tion to the effect that it was presented by the inhabitants of the precinct in 18413,
destroyed with the chapel in 1864, and restored by Queen Victoria in memory of the
Prince Consort in 1865. A beautiful font has been contributed by Mrs. De Wint, a
parishioner ; a carved oaken pulpit of chaste design has been presented by another
p rishioner, Mr. Burgess, of the Strand. The benefice is a " peculiar ;" building unoon-
secrated ; clergy unlicensed. Her Majesty pays every current expense belonging to
the chapel, its officers, and services.
On the Sunday following Christmas-day it has been customary to place near the
door a chair covered with a cloth : on the chur being an orange in a plate. This
curious custom at the Savoy has not been explained.
St. AIiBAX thb Mabtyb, Baldwin's Gardens, Grays'-Inn-lane, was built and
endowed at the sole expense of Mr. Hubbard, M.P. The site was given by Lord
Leigh : Butterfield, architect ; consecrated Feb. 20, 1863 ; the choir entirely from
the parishioners of the district. The church comprises a clerestoried Nave and a Chancel,
both with aisles, and a saddle-back tower at the west end. The building is of brick,
with stone, alabaster, and terra-cotta dresungs. Externally, the bricks are of the
CHUEGHES AND CHAPELS, 145
ordinary stock brick character, with very slight bandings of red ; and internally, red
and yellow bricks are disposed in patterns mixed with stone; the latter being orna-
mented with indsed scroll-work filled in with black mastic. The nse of constrnctive
polychrome! and the absence of carving, are characteristics of the edifice. At the
west end is a narthex, or Galilee porch, supported by an arch of imposing span and
height, and lighted by a noble west window. Here, according to the custom of the
esrly churches, are the north and south doors. The Chancel is approached by two
steps, and the altar is raised on a platform considerably higher. Over it is a large
marble cross, enriched, let into the wall. The chancel walls are lined with alabaster,
Ixmded with tile, and ornamented with nieUo work. On the flat east end, above the
second stoiy, is a series of panels filled with ten water-glass pictures, designed by
lie Strange, from Our Lord's life, the central place being occupied with a picture of the
Annunciation. A low wrooght-iron screen separates the Nave from the Chancel ; and
lofty iron pardoses divide the chancel from its aisles. The columns of the clerestory
here, as in the Nave and in the arcading against the north and south walls of the aisles,
are of red terra-ootta, in short lengths. The roof is of wood, ornamented with colour.
The font has a rich character in desigpi and form, and in the coloured stone of its inlaid
work. In the Chancel is a brass lectern. The pulpit is of oak, simple in design, on a
pedestal of stone and terra cotta. The entrance to the belfry stx)ry is by a staircase
opening into the church at the centre of the west wall : over the door is inscribed,
*' I believe in one baptism for the remismon of sins," under a sculptured bas-relief
of the Last Supper. Incense and the vestments are used. Here is a tenor bell, one of
an intended peal of dght. Near the entrance of the church is placed a drinking-
foantain. The whole cost of the church, without the pictures, is about 15,0002.
St. Albai^'s, Wood-street, Cheapade, is stated to have been named from its belong-
ing to the monastery of St. Albans. Stow thinks it to be " at least of as antient
standing as King Adelstane the Saxon (925 to 941), who, as the tradition says, had
his house at the east end of this church," and which gave name to Adel-street.
Haitland supposes the church to have been one of the first places of worship built in
London by AUred, after he had driven out its destroyers, the Danes. It was rebuilt
by Tnigo Jones, but destroyed by the Great Fire, and again rebuilt by Wren in
1685, " Gothic, as the same was before the Fire," with clustered columns, flat pointed
arches, and boldly groined roof. To the right of the reading-desk, within twisted
oolumns, arches, &c., and in a frame richly ornamented with angels soimding trumpets,
icc^ is an hour-glass, such as was common in churches in the sixteenth and seventeenth
centuries, " that when the preacher doth make a sermon, he may know the hour
passeth away :" the hour-glass frame and the spiral column upon wMch it is mounted
are of brass. Butler, in Hudibreu, has :
At gifted Brethren preaching hj
A carnal Hour-glass do imply.— Om^o 8, v. 1061, and NoU,
The exterior of the church is ill designed, and has a pinnacled tower 92 feet high.
The whole was restored in 1859, by G. Gilbert Scott» architect. The interior is
wainscoted with Norway oak. One of the St. Alban's rectors, Pr. Watts, who died
in 1649, assisted Sir Henry Spelman in his Qlouary, and edited Matthew Paris's
Hittoria Major,
AuAALLOWB BABEisa, at the east end of Great Tower-street, so called from having
belonged to the Abbot and Convent of Barking, in Essex, narrowly escaped the Great
Fire, which burnt the dial and porch, and vicarage-hou^e. The church contains a
corioosly-carved communion-table, font-cover, and screen with altar-wreaths ; and some
funeral brasses of early date, among the best in London. The headless bodies of
the poet Surrey, Bishop Fisher (More's friend), and Archbishop Laud, who were exe-
cuted on Tower Hill, were interred in Allhallows Church and churchyard, but have
been removed for honourable burial. The body of Fisher was carried on the halberds
of the attendants, and interred in the churchyard.
There has been published, by the archseologist curate of this parish, Berhynge
Chwrehe Jfex^a-IWmm— collections in illustration of the architecture and mona-
146 GVRioaiTma of London.
meats, notices of vicara, &c. Much of tbe charch is Perpendicular ; the chancel-
ivindow is late Decorated. The whole building had a narrow escape at the Chreat Fire;
for, as Pepys records, the dial and porch were burnt, and the fire there quenched.
Mr. Lqrborne, in Strypo, B. IL p. 96^ relates that over against the wall of Barking Chorchyaid, a sad
and lamentable accident oefel by gunpowder in this manner. At a ship-chandler's, apon Jan. 4, 1648,
about seven o'clock at nighty being oosy In bis Bh<n> barrelUng up gnnpowder, it took fire, and in the
twinkling of an eye blew up, not only that but allthe houses thereabouts to the nomber (towards the
street and in back alleys) of fifty or sixty* The nnmber of persons destroyed bv this blow could never
be Imown, for the next honse but one was the Bose Tavern, a house never (at that Ume of night) bat
fhll of company: and that dav the parish dinner was at the honse. And in three orfour days after
digging, they oontinoally found heads, arms, legs, and half bodies, miserably torn and scorched, besides
many whole oodles, not so much as their clothes singed. In the digsing, strange to relatei, they found
the mistress of the Boee Tavern sitting in her bar, and one of the drawers standing by the bars aide*
with a pot in his hand, only stifled with dust and smoke; their bodies beinf preserved whole by means
of great timbers fidUng across one another. Next morning there was found on the upper leads of .
Baning Church, a young child lying in a cradle, as newly laid In bed, neither the child nor the cradle
having the least sign of any fire or other hurt It was never known whose child it was, so that one
of the parish kept it as a memorial ; for In the vear 1666 (says the narrator), I saw the child, grown ta
be then a proper maiden, and came to the man that had kept her all that time, where he was drinkin?
at a tavern with some other company then present And he told us she was the child that was so found
in the cradle unon the church leads, as afomald. According to a tablet which hung beneath the organ
gallery of the cnurch, the quantity of gnnpowder exploded in this catastrophe was twenty-seven barreU.
Allhallows, Bread-street, was buUt by Wren, in 1680: the old church, ia
which Milton was baptized, was destroyed in the Great Fire, but the register preserves
the entry of the poefs baptism. Here was buried Alderman Richard Seed, who re-
fusing to pay to "a benevolence" levied by Henry VIII., was sent to serve as a soldier,.
" both he and his men at his own charge," in the Northern wars. Reed was taken
prisoner by the Scotch, and was glad to make his peace with the King, and purchase
his ransom at a heavy rate. Laurence Saunders was rector of this parish in 1553. In
Queen Mary's reign he preached most zealously against Romish errors, and was im>
prisoned fifteen months, degraded Feb. 4, 1555, and next day was carried to Coventry,
where, on the 8th, he sufiered martyrdom.
" There are but few readents in the parish, which is chiefly filled with warehouses,
nearly every one of which has a padlock on the door on Sunday. The congregation,
usually averages nine ! — Mackeson.
Allhallows the Gbeat Ain> Less, Upper Thames-street, built in 1688, has a
richly carved oak rood-screen the whole width of the church. It vvas manu&ctured
at Hamburgh, and presented in the reig^ of Queen Anne to the church by Hanse
Merchants, who formerly reuded in this parish in considerable numbers.
WiUiam Lichfield was Rector in 1440. He composed during his ministry 3083
sermons, which were found in his own handwriting, after his decease. Pepys speaks of
Allhallows the Great as one of the first churches that set up the King's Arms before the
Restoration, while Monk and Montague were as yet undecided. Theodore Jaoobson,
the architect of the Foundling Hospital, is buried here.
Allhallows, Honey-lane, a small parish church, in the ward of Cheap, on the site
of Honey-lane Market ; it was destroyed in the Great Fire, and not rebuilt. Here
was buried John Norman, draper. Mayor, 1453, " the first Mayor that was rowed
to Westminster by water, for before that they rode on horseback." -— (iS^oto.)
Thomas Garrard was Rector in 1537, and having circulated forbidden theological
books, was attainted by Parliament, and burned in Smithfield, 1540.
Allhallows, Lombard-street, destroyed by the Groat Fire and rebuilt by Wren
in 1694, contains an exquisitely-sculptured white marble font ; carved figures of Time
and Death, in wood, besides a carved curtain, which seems to hide foliage behind it.
The churchyard was closed in the cholera year, 1849, and laid out as a garden.
In 1680, (me Peter Symons left 3L 2$, Sd. to the parish of Allhallows. in order that, after a sermon
and the nsnal morning service upon Whit-Sunday, a penny and a packet of plums should be ^ven to
sixty boys belonging to Christ's HospitaL Each lad receives a new penny and a packet containing'
about a quarter of a pound of plums. Another version of Uie Will states the distributi<m to be in the
burying-ground in Old Bethlem to sixty poor people of the parish of St Botolph, Bishonsgate. The
penny loaves have increased to twopenny loaves, and tbe burial-ground of Old Bethlem has been invaded
by railway companies. Of late years the loavee have been given away in the garden of Mr. £lwin«
Gifts of bread, buns, and money, flrom a local source, are also then given to the charity children, and to
many of the poorer inhabitants of the parish.
Aslhallows Siaikiko, Mark-lane, escaped the Great Fire, and Stow thinks was
CEUBCHE8 AND CHAPELS. 147
called Stane drarch to distinguish it from others in the City of the same name, bnilt
of timber. The tower and a portion of the west end alone are ancient. The Princess
Elizabeth, on May 19, 1554, after her release from the Tower, performed her dcTotiona
in tbia clmrch ; and afterwards is said to have dined off pork and peas at the King's
Head in Fenchnrch-street» where a metal dish and cover nsed on the occauon are
shown ; and a commemorative dinner was held annnaUy on Elizabeth's birthday, but
discoin^ned thirty years since. The churchwardens' books contain payments for ring-
ing the bells ''for joye of ye execution of ye Queene of Scots :" also for the return of
King James II. from Feversham ; and, two days after, on the arrival of the Prince of
Orange. In De Laune's Sutoty of London, published 1681, mention is made of charities
connected with Allhallows Staining ; and that '* John Costin, a GKrdler, who dyed 1244,
gave the poor of the parish a hundred quarters of charcoals for ever."
A T.T.TT A T JiOWS-Df-TiTB-WALL, Broad-stroct Ward, is named "of standing dose to
the wall of the City." (Stow,) It was built in the shape of a wedge, east end broadest,
by Danc^ jun., 176^ and contuns an altar-picture, painted and presented by Sir
N. Bancei of P. da Cortona's " Ananias restoring Fbul to sight." The parish books
(oommendng 1455) record the benefactions of an " ancker," or hermit, who lived near
the old church which escaped the Great Fire. Here is a tablet to the Rev. William
Beloe, translator of Herodotus, and twenty years rector of this parish; his successor in
the living was Archdeacon Nares, so weU known by his Qlostofy,
All Sahtts £ibhofs0ate. Skinner-street, a Gothic church, built in 1830, at the
expense of Bishop Blomfield, when rector of St. Botolph's.
All Sahtts, Eennington Park, W. White, architect, completed in 1853, presets in
its Tnaterials stone of various colours, Devonshire marble, and different coloured tiles
and brickwork ; in the clerestory, part of each window-head is filled with mosaic work,
inrtead of being pierced ; and large squares of stained glass in place of the ordinary
perishable quarry lights. Thb church owes its erection mainly to the munificence <»
the Bev. Br. Widker, rector of St. Columb Major, after the model of whose beautiful
church in Cornwall the church of All Saints is built.
All Saikts, Enigbtsbridge, in the Lombardic or Byzantine style, by Vulliamy, con-
secrated 1849; incumbent, the Rev. W. Harness, one of the editors of Shakspeare;
senior corat^ the Rev. Mackenzie Waloott, author of MemoriaU of Westmituter, 1849.
Aix Saints, Lower Marsh, Lambeth, built in 1846, in the Anglo-Norman style,
has a tower and spire 160 feet high, and upwards of 100 feet from the body of the
church, with which it is connected by a passage.
All Sottib, Langham-place, built by Nash in 1822-25, has been much ridiculed, but
is suited to its angular plan ; the circular tower, surrounded with Ionic columns,
has a Corinthian peristyle above, and a stone cone or spire; it is well adapted to
its situation, having the same appearance whichever way viewed. The surface is
fluted, and the point finished with metal. The interior is formed on the model of
the older churches in the Italian style, and is divided "by colonnades into nave and"
aisles : it contains an altar-picture by Westall, R.A., of Christ crowned with thorns.
All Saivts, Mai^garet-street, W. Butterfield, architect, was derigned as a model
eiurek, in art-development, and *' in strict conformity with all the distinctive tenets
and limitations of the pure reformed church." The first stone was laid by the Rev.
Dr. Posey, on All Saints' Day (Nov. 1, 1850) ; and the conduct of the work was un-
dertaken on his own responsibility by Mr. A. J. B. Beresford Hope, with every limited
number of sabscriptions, one of which, however, is stated to have been 30,000/. from
an anonymous benefactor. The ground, which includes the site of Margaret-street
Chapel, was purchased chiefly by Mr. Hope for 10,000/. The church forms one side of
a small court, two odes of which are formed by houses (schools and clergy house),
connected with the church, and the fourth side opens to Margaret-street. It consists
of a nave and chancel, with usles to each : its length is 109 feet, its width 64 fbet.
The length of the nave internally is 63 feet 6 inches, and of the chancel, which is
vaulted, 88 feet 6 inches. The external height of the buDdmg itself is 75 feet ; and
that of the tower and spire, one of the noblest features in the design, 227 feet.
x2
148 CURIOSITIES OF LONDON.
The style of the entire mass is Early Middle Pointed, 1.0., the style of abont a.d. 1300
The material of the whole is red brick, chequered, in the church itself, by mosaic
patterns of black brick, and courses of Danby Dale stone ; in the ooUegiate buildings by
patterns of black brick, which is used, especially above the window arches, with great
boldness. The court is separated from the road by an iron screen standing on a low per-
peyn wall ; the entrance is by a pedunented gateway, and immediately opposite a but-
tress is converted into a kind of churchyard cross. In its upper part it is ornamented
with a sculpture of the Annunciation; above that, it carries a metal cross at the height
of 65 feet The tower is at the west end of the south aisle. Its union and harmony
with the spire, and the treatment of the belfry windows, are, beyond comparison, finer
than the Marien Kirche of Lubeck. The decoration of the tower consists princijMilly of
courses of Danby Dale stone, edged by a border of black brick, and relieved by a
chevron of the same; mosaic patterns being introduced. The spire is broached; it is
covered with slates, and relieved with bands of lead, and carries a very noble metal
cross. It is (1866) the highest spire in London, being more, elevated than that of
Bow Church or St. Bride's.
The interior is the most gorgeous in the kingdom, and the one in which ecdesio-
logical teaching has been most studiously followed ; every part of it having been
executed in accordance with medieval precedent and symbolism. The Nave is divided
into three bays, the south-western being inclosed so as to form a Baptistery. The
clustered columns which support the arches of the Nave are of polished Aberdeen
granite, with plinths of black marble, and boldly foUaged capitals of alabaster ; the
spandrels of the arches are inlaid with coloured stones and encaustic tiles in geometrical
patterns. The roof is of wood in seven bays, painted of a chocolate colour relieved
with white and pricked out with blue. The great Chancel arch is of alabaster ; the
wall above is inlaid with black, white, and coloured work, and has a large "cross of
glory," in the centre. All the windows are of stained glass : the one of the south aisle
and g^eat window (the Root of Jesse) by Gerente of Paris, represent scriptural subjects.
The clerestory windows are of geometrical patterns, by O'Connor. The pulpit is of
coloured marble, and cost nearly 400/. The floor is hud with encaustic tiles ; there
are neither pews nor forms, but chairs are used.
The Chancel is mainly lined with alabaster and statuary marble ; the arches dividing
the Chancel from its aisles being filled with tracery of alabaster, resting on shafts of
dark red serpentine ; while on the ground-Iine of the sanctuary beyond, these rich
materials are sculptured into canopied arcades, forming graceful sedilia. There is no
east window, the entire end of the chancel above the altar being occupied by a series
of fresco paintings by W. R. Dyce, R.A., on a diapered gold ground, and each in a
canopied frame of alabaster ; the detached shafts are of serpentine. In the lowest
stage is "the Nativity;" the Madonna, with the infant in her lap occupies the
centre ; whilst three of the Apostles are in panels on either side. In the middle
stage in the centre is a representation of "the Crucifixion," and the rest of the Apostles
occupy the side panels; the upper space is devoted to a large representation of
" the Celestial Court, with our Lord in Majesty in the centre," the Saviour being
seated in front of an elliptical aureole, around which is a choir of angels, while below
are Saints of the church, standing and kneeling in adoration. The upper portion of
the Chancel is decorated with geometrical and mosaic work, in coloured marbles. The
roof, which is externally more elevated than the nave, is groined in stone ; the main
ribs of the arches and vaulting are gilt ; the low screen, which shuts off the altar, is
of alabaster and coloured marble. The floor is laid with encaustic tUes. The Organ,
divided into two parts, occupies portions of the Chancel aisles, the trackers passing under
the floor. The Baptistery (the ground-floor of the tower) is ornamented with polished
red granite, serpentine, and alabaster ; the font is of coloured marble, resembling in
style the pulpit. The ceiling contuns a flg^e of the emblematic pelican. Throughout
the building is a rich display of GK>thic brasswork. The grilles dividing the chancel
from the transept are light and graceful ; the stalls are very unobtrusive and neat ;
the holy table is of various precious woods.
Hr. Batterfield'B design and intention evidently was to produce a whole proftwelj but delioaiely
coloared, bright and lominoas, refreshing to the eye, and satis^g Of It comes to be reflected upon) to
CHTmCHES AND CHAPELS. 149
the mind. The kej*note of the colour was to be atrack by the lorel j natural marbles so largely used
throaghoot the church; white was to be the foundatiou of the system, reUeved indeed and decorated,
Int nerer oiverpowered, by the stronger and more decided hues, whether of marble, of paint, or of gilding;
emptoyed to Burnmnd it and give It force ; the result is admirable. The low marble screen, chieflT of
white and light brown marble ; the side arches fillg4 with tracery of serpentine and alabaster tau. of
manlT strength and beautr ; the magnificent alabaater reredos ; the genenu use of alabaster and green
marble am the tides of the chancel, and alabaster and fUntiy coloured chalkstone in the groming,
together with moat of the encaustic tiles and the woodwork, are Mr. Butterfield's. The pillars carrying
the Tanltinff are of green Mona marble, with alabaster capitals. The alabaster ribs are completely
eoTcred with gold, and have the eflfeot of Imrs of simple metu ; the capitals of the columns ana large
maases of the reredos are covered with gold. The church is not absolutely large. The height of the
roo^ however, increased to the eye by the use of white plaster between tiie carred beams ; the broad
and stately arches; the large, bold, and bright patterns mlaid upon the walls ; all combine to create an
im^resaioD of breadth and dignity alt<^ther uncommon. The mingling of the coloured bricks, the
white stone, the pink granite, and the alabaster arches and capitals, is very happy. The csdnrings of
the capitals were long smce remarked upon by Mr. Buskin, with pierfect Justice; as unequalled in mfldem
times. — ^Abridged from the Ouardian,
The church is the parish church of a "Peel"paruh,ibrmed, in 1849, out of the
district rectory of All Souls', St. Marylebone, in the peipetual patronage of the Bishop
of London. Its present and first incumbent is the Rev. W. Upton Richards. The
cbnrch was, in the main, finished in 1859, and b understood to have cost 70,OOOZ.
One of our ablest ecclesiologpsts, himself a leader among the exclusively Gothic
architects of our time, Mr. G. £. Street, observes :^" Though I have a rather large
acquaintance with English and foreign works executed since the revival of Pointed
Art^ I cannot hesitate for an instant in allowing that this church is not only the most
beautifhl, but the most vigorous, thoughtful, and original of them all."
All Saivts, Poplar-lane, India-road, was first built in 1650-54, by subscription, on
ground given by the East India Company, and was nearly rebuilt by them in 1776. It
has a very good peal of ten beUs. Here are monuments to Robert Ainsworth, the
lexicographer ; and Flaxman's sculpture in memory of George Steevens, the illustrator
of Shakspeare : it is a bas-relief of Steevens earnestly contemplating a bust of our
great Dramatic Bard ; the poetical inscription is by Hayley.
St. Alfhaqe, London Wall, escaped the Great Fire, and was rebuilt in the last
century : it has a porch with sculptured heads and pointed arches, stated to be a
remnant of the ancient Elsing Priory. Its reg^isters record, within a few years, about forty
persons in this parish who certified that they had been touched by Charles II. for the
EviL
St. AiTDBXW's, Canal-road, Kingsland-road, built of brick of divers colours, C. A.
Long, architect, has a recessed pordi at the west end, and a square tower and zinc
spire at the east: opened 1865.
St. Avdbsw's, Holbom, was rebuilt by Wren, upon the site of the old church, in
1686; the original tower (date Henry VI.), 110 feet high, was recased in 1704. It
is one of the best placed churches in London : " for as the west end is nearly at the
summit of Holbom-hill, the foundation was necessarily continued throughout on this
level to the east end in Shoe-lane ; so that the basement is there considerably elevated
above the houses." {Godwin,) The interior is rich in gilding and stained glass.
The Orean was built from the ikmous instrument constructed hy Harris for the Temple Church*
TMit of wmch was sent to Christchnrch Cathedral, Dublin, but was sold for 6002., and is now in
Wolverhampton Church. When Dr. Sacheverell entcared upon the liying of St. Andrew's, he found that
the organ, not harinff been j^aUl for, had, from its erection in 1699, been shut up ; when Sacheverell, by
a oollection amongst his pansMoners, raised the amount, and paid for the instrument.'
St. Andrew's has been called '* the Poets' Church," from the sons of Song connected
with it : John Webster, the dramatic poet, a late contemporary of Shakspeare, is said
to have been parish-clerk here, but this is not attested by the register ; Robert Savage
was diristened here, Jan. 18, 1696-7 ; the register records, Aug. 28, 1770, " William "
(Thomas) ** Chatterton," with " the poet " added by a later hand, interred in the
burial-ground of Shoe-lane Workhouse, now the site of Farringdon Market; and in
the churchyard lies Henry Keele, the gravestone bearing a touching epitaph written
by him on his father. Among the eminent rectors of the church were Hacket and
8tillingfleet» afterwards Ushops ; and Sacheverel, the partisan preacher, who is buried
in the ChanceL In the south aisle is a tablet to John Emery, the comedian, d. 1822.
Some of the registers date from 1658.
150 CURIOSITIES OF LONDOK
St. Ansbiht's UKDEBBHAjnr, LeadenhaU-atreet, nearly oppomte the nte of the
East India House, is a Tudor cbnrch, before whose sooth side was set up on every May-
day morning a long shaft or May-pole, which was higher than the charch-steeple. It
was last raised in 1617, on *' Evil May-day/' "so called of an insurrection made hy
apprentices and other young persons against aliens :" it was then hung on iron hooks
over the doors and under the "pentices" of Shaft-alley, until Srd King Edward VI.,
when one St. Stephen, a curate, preaching at Fkiul's Cross, " said that this shaft was
made an idol, by naming the church of St. Andrew with the addition of ' under-that-
shaft.' " Stow heard this sermon, and describes how the parishioners in the afternoon
lifted the shaft fit}m the hooks whereon it had rested thirty-two years, sawed it in
pieces, " every man taking for his share so much as had lain over his door and stall,
the length of his house ; and they of the alley divided among them so much as had
lain over their alley -gate " {Stow) : and thus was this idol " mangled and after
burned." The present church, rebuilt 1520-1532, consists of a nave and two ade
aisles, with ribbed and flattened roof, painted and gilt with flowers and shields. The
Chancel has also paintings of the heavenly chcnr, landscapes, and buildings. St.
Andrew's has much stained glass; and a large pointed windoA' at the east end of the
Nave contains whole-length portraits of King Edward VI., Queen Elizabeth, James I.,
Charles I., and Charles II. The church was pewed soon after 1520. It contains
many brasses, tablets, and monuments, the most characteristic of which is that of
Johu Stow, author of A Survey of London (1598). This monument is of terra-cotta,
and was erected by Stow's widow ; it contains the figure of the chronicler, onoe
coloured after life : he is seated at a table, pen in hand, with a book before him, and
a clasped book on each side of the alcove : above are the arms of Stew's Company, the
Merchant Tailors'.
John Stow was bom in the pariih of '8t Michael, Comhill, in the yesr 1526. There is sbondsnt
proof that he was by trade a tailor. In 164B, he was dwelling near the well within Aldgate, now known
as Aldgate pomp; where the Bailiff of Rumford was, to use Stew's own words, " executed upon the
pavement of mv door, where I then kept house." Amidst the toils of business, Stow wrote his
CknmieleMt his Annale§t and his Survejf, a " simple and unadorned picture of London at the dose of the
16th and commencement of the 17th century;" besides other works, printed and manuscript, which, to
use his own words, " cost him many a weary mile's trayol, many a hard-earned penny ana pound, and
many a cold winter night's study." He ei^oycd the patronage of Archbishop Parker, the mendahip of
LamlNurde, and the respect of Camden ; vet he fell into poverty, and all he could obtain from his
sovereign, James I., for the toll of near half a century, was a license to beg I Stow died a twelvemonth
after, on the 0th of April, 1606, in the parish of St Andrew TJndershaft, and was buried on April 8 : bat,
according to Maitlana, in the year 173i,.certain men removed Stow's " corpse, to make way for another."
His collections for the Ckronielew qf England, occupying 60 quarto voiumea, are now in the British
Museum. Of the various editions of Stow's Sttrvqf, it may suffice to commend to the reader's notice
the reprint from the edition of 1603, carcfhily edited br W. J. Thorns, F.SA.. 1848.
In a desk in this chnrch are preserved seven corions old books, mostly in black letter,
with a portion of iron chain attached to them, by which they were formerly secured
nnder open cages.
St. Andrew by the Wabdbobe, in Castle Baynard Ward, was named from its con-
tiguity to the King's Great Wardrobe, destroyed in the Great Fire, and rebuilt by
Wren, in 1692. Here is a monument, by the elder Bacon, to the Bev. William
Romaine ; the bust very good.
St. AmDBBw's, Wells-street, Marylebone, built by Baukes and Hamilton, in 1845-7,
is fine Early Perpendicular, and has a tower and spire 165 feet high c the Anglican
musical service is ftilly performed here ; seats free and open.
St. AKim's, Blackfriars, was destroyed in the Great Hre, and not rebuilt. It was
" pulled down with the Friars' Church, by Sir Thomas Cawarden, Master of the
Bevels ; but in the reign of Queen Mary, he being forced to find a church for the
inhabitants, allowed them a lodging chamber above a stair" (Slow). The parish
register records the burial of Isaac Oliver, the miniature painter ; Nat Field, the poet
and player ; Dick Bobinson, the player ; William Faithome, the engraver. Van Dyck
lived and died in this parish ; his daughter was baptized the day her illustrious father
died, December 9, 1641.
St. Aifvs'8, Limehouse, built by Hawksmoor, pupil of Wren, 17J 2-24, at a cost of
85,0002., has a tower, with four angular turrets, and a more lofty one in the centra
CEUBCHE8 AND CHAPELS. 151
origiiial and pictnreeqne. At 130 feet high is the clock, put np by Messrs. Moore in
1839 : it 18 the highest in the metropolis, not excepting St. Paul's, and has four
dials, each 13 feet in diameter; the hours being struck on the great bell (38 cwt.),
inscribed:
" At proper times my Toice I'll raise,
Ana sound to my subscribers' inraise."
The whole of the interior of the church, including a fine organ, was destroyed by an
accidental fire on the morning of Good Friday, Murch 29, 1850 ; but has been judi-
oonsly restored.
St. Anke's, Soho, was finished in 1686, and occupies a spot formerly called Kemp's
Fields. It was dedicated to St. Anne in compliment to the Princess Anne of Denmark.
The tower and spire were rebuilt about 1806 by the late S. P. Cockerell ; the dock is
m whimsical and ugly excrescence. The interior is very handsome, and has a finely-
painted window at the east end. In this church is a tablet to the memory of Theodore
Anthony Neuhofi*, King of Corsica, who died in this parish in 1766, soon after his
liberation from the King's Bench Prison by the Act of Insolvency. The friend who
gave shelter to this unfortunate monarch, whom nobles could praise when praise could
not reach his ear, and who refused to succour him in his miseries, was himself so poor
as to be unable to defray the cost of his funeral. His remains were therefore about to
be interred as a parish pauper, when one John Wright» an oilman in Compton-street»
declared, lie for anee would pay the funeral expenses of a Icing, which he did^ The
tablet was erected at the expense of Horace Walpole, who inscribed upon it
Pate poor'd its lesson on his living head,
Bestow'd a kingdom, and denied him bread.*'
In the church is buried David 'Williams, founder of the Literary Fund ; and in the
churchyard, William Hazlitt, the clever essayist. In the church are monuments to Sir
John Macpheraon, Governor-General of India, and William Hamilton, ILA., painter.
St. ANTHoinr's (St. Antholin's or St. Antling's), in Budge-row, at the comer of
Sise-lane, is of ancient foundation, being mentioned in the twelfth century. The
church was rebuilt about 1399 and again 1513 ; and being destroyed in the Great Fir^ of
1666, was rebuilt by Wren in 1682, when the parish of St John Baptist, Watling-
street, was annexed to that of St. Antholin. The interior has an oval dome, supported
on dght columns; and the carpentry of the roof is a fine specimen of Wren's con-
structive skill. The exterior has a tower rising directly from the ground, with on
octagonal spire, terminating with a Compodte capital, at the height of 154 feet. In
1559, there was established, "after Geneva fashion," at St. Antholin's, an early
prayer and lecture, the bells for which began to ring at five in the morning. This
service is referred to by our early dramatists, and the preacher (a Puritan) and the
ben of St. Antlin's were proverbially loud and lengthy. The chaplains of the Commis-
noners fh>m the Church of Scotland to King Charles, in 1640, preached here : and
** cariosity, faction, and humour," drew such crowds, that on Sundays, from daybreak
to night^kU, the church was never empty. The churchwardens' accounts present (in
an unbroken series) the parish expenditure for nearly three centuries.
St. AvausTnrs'g, Watling-street, was destroyed in ihe Great Fire, and rebuilt by
Wren, in 1682. The ancient church stood near the gate that led from Watling-street
into St. Paul's churchyard. In 1387 (says Strype) was founded the fraternity of St.
Austin's, in Watling-street (corrupted from St. Augustine's), who met in this church
OD the eve of St. Austin's, and in the morning at high mass, when every brother
oflfered a penny, afterwards they were ready either "at mangier or at revele"— to eat
or to revel, as the master and wardens of the fraternity d^ected. After the Great
Fire, the parish of St. Faith-under-Paul's (so called because a part of the crypt of
that cathedral was fbrmerly their church) was united to St. Augustine's.
St. Babkabas', Queen-street, Pimlico, is a portion of a college founded on St.
Baniabat' Pay, 1846, indnding schoob and re&dentiary house for the clergy, upon
152 CUBI08ITIE8 OF LONBOK.
f^nmnA presented by the iint Marquis of Westmioster. The bnildings are in the
Early Pointed style, Cundy, architect; and the church has a Caen -stone tower and
spire l70 feet high, with a peal of ten bells, the gifts of as many parishioners. The
windows throughout are filled with stained glass by Wailes, of Newcastle ; the subjects
from the life of St. Barnabas. The open roof is splendidly painted ; the rood dividing
the Choir from the Chancel, and other fittings, are entirely of oak ; the lectern is a
brass eagle : the superb altar-plate, the font, illuminated office-books, the corona lucis
in the chancel, and other costly ornaments, are the gifts of private individuals. The
funds were contributed by the inhabitants of the district of St. Paul, Knightsbridge^
through the pious zeal of the Rev. W. J. £. Bennett, the incumbent. There is an
organ by Flight, of great richness, variety, and power ; and full choral service is per-
formed. During the Anti -Papal agitation towards the close of 1850, this church was
more than once the scene of disgraceful interruption by intolerant mobs, who, but for
the intrepidity of the officiating clergy, would have set aside the right to undisturbed
worship. The church was consecrated by the Bishop of London, on St. Barnabas' Day
(June 11), 1850. The clerg^y and services are midntained by the ofiertory, as there is
no endowment. In 1849-50, sermons were preached here by the Bishop of London
(Blomfield), the Bishop of Oxford, Archdeacon Manning, the Begins Professors of
Hebrew at Oxford and Cambridge (Dr. Mill and Dr. Pusey), Mr. Sewell (of Oxford),
Mr. Pteget, Mr. Gresley, Mr. Keble, Mr. F. Bennett, Mr. Keunaway, Mr. Neaie,
Mr. H. Wilberibrce, Mr. Richards, Mr. R. Eden, and Mr. W. J. E. Bennett. The
ancient practice of singing the Litany at a fieddstool, at the entrance to the chancel,
has here been revived, and in all other respects the most approved Catholic usages
have been observed, in so far as tliey are applicable to our own ritual. The Hone altar
\Ab been replaced by a wooden one, — a table,
St. Basnabas, Bell-street, Edgvrare-road, stands north and south, instead of east
and west, owing to the peculiar form of the site. Over the altar is a metal cross,
affixed to the wall, bearing in its centre a circular mosaic representing the Lamb, on a
gold ground. Above the Chancel arch is a figure of the Saviour seated, painted in
fresco ; and the north window is of stained glass. A. W. Blomfield, architect.
St. Bartholomew by the Ezohaitge, rebuilt by Wren after the Great Fire,
mostly with the old masonry, was taken down in 1840 : the tower was in eccentric
taste, appearing as though the upper part had been blown down, and a door-way or
window-fhtme been left on each side. Here was buried Miles Coverdale, our first
translator of the Bible, whose remuns were removed to St. Magnus* Church, London
Bridge, on the taking down of St. Bartholomew's. This church has been rebuilt in
Moor-lane, Cripplegate, under the direction of C. R. Cockerell, R.A. The interior
details are Tuscan ; the altar-piece, pulpit, &c., are richly-carved oak ; and the com-
munion end is lighted by a stained Catherine-wheel window. From the western door
the whole interior to the east is discovered through a triumphal arch, formed by a
novel and ingenious construction of the choir-gallery in front of the organ.
St. Babtholomew the Gbeat, in West Smithfield, is part of the ancient Priory
of St. Bartholomew the Great, founded about 1102, by Rahere, the King's Minstrel,
who became first Prior. Originally, the church consisted of a low central tower, with
four other towers, one at each of the angles of the edifice, and all crowned with conical
spires. Of Rahere's church, founded as above, in the reign of Henry L, and finished
about 1123, nothing remains but the Choir, with an aisle or procession-path surrounding
its apsidal east end, the crossing (at the original intersection of the transepts), and one
bey only — the easternmost one— of the Nave. These remains are coeval with the
naves of the cathedrals of Durham, Norwich, and Peterborough. The original length
of St. Bartholomew's seems to have been about 280 feet, and its breadth 60 feet— a
little less than those of Rochester Cathedral. At the Dissolution of religious houses the
Nave was pulled down, and the conventual buildings were disposed of to various per-
sons. The Choir and Transepts were granted in 1544 to the parishioners, for their use as a
parish church ; and so remained tiU now — except that about the year 1628 the original
tower was taken down and a new one built of brick. The Nave is supposed to have
originally extended to the house-fronts in West Smithfield, where is the entranoe-gate»
CHUBGHES AND CHAPELS. 153
an excellent specimen of Early English, vrith the toothed ornament in its mouldings.
Mr. Pftrker has, however, explained that the ahove gateway was not the doorway to
the sonth aide, as it had heen considered. The grant of the Priory by Henry VIII.
defines the Nave as it was then, " a vend ground, 87 feet in length and 60 feet in
breadth," and it was reserved as a churchyard, for which purpose it had been used to our
time. The discrepancy of the present dimensions with those in the grant, it is remark-
able bad not before occurred to antiquaries. Mr. Parker has also explained that the
aze of the doorway and extent of the mouldings are altogether unsuited to the position
assigned to them in the church. Here are the details :
At present the building is 132 fLbr 67 ft., and 47 ft. high, having an open timber roof, which Is
rappooed to be equal in age to the bnilding itself. The square brick tower at the end of the soath aisle
is 75 ft. high, ana was erected in 1628. It contains five bells. The six bells belonging originally to the
edifice were sold at the Dissolution of the monastery to the parish chnreh of St. Sepulchre. On the east
dde of the soath wins stood a beautlAil chapel of the time of Edward IlL, with a large western archwaj,
which was destroyed Dy fire in 1830. Attached to the east end of the church was a Lady Chapel, of
Konnan style, now a fringe manu&otory, the side walls of which still remain. The prior's house,
infinnary, refectory, dormitory, ohapter-house, and cloisters originally surrounded the building. The
walls of the chi4pter>honse, of the time of Henry III., were remaining in 1809, as high as the window-
sflis. It had three arched entrances to the cloister, with arcades on the north and south sides. On the
south side of the church is an oriel window built by Prior Bolton early in the 16th century, and sniMX)eed
to have been used, like tbai at Worcester Cathedral, by the sacristan for the supervision of the lights
baminff at the altar. It is ornamented by the Prior's rebus, an arrow, or some such thing, inserted
through s ton. The interior of the church contains several yery ancient monuments in good preserva'-
tioD; among others the eflBgr and tomb of Rahere, Uie first prior, inserted within a screen; the
Elizabethan tomb of Sir Walter MUdmay, Chancellor of the Exehequerj and founder of Emmanud
CoUrge, Cambridge, who died in May« 1688 ; and of Rycroft, the king^s printer of the Polyglot. Le
8(Ear. the sculptor, and Milton lived in Bartholomew-close, hard by; and WUliam Hogarth was baptized
fai the church In November, 1607.
Archer, in his Vetiiges of Old London, has engraved the west gate of the Priory
and that portion of it which is now the " Coach and Horses" public-house, at the
entrance to Bartholomew-dose, formerly the Priory dose. The kitichen is now a dwell-
ing-house, from which a subterranean passage communicated with the church. Mr.
Archer identified the mulbeny-gardcn from an old plan, and the decayed stump of a
celebrated mulberry -tree was grubbed up just before his visit in 1842.
This chnreh, the oldest beyond all question in the whole^City of London, having been
erected nearly 750 years ago, is about to be restored to its primitive grandeur at t^ie
cost of a large sum of money, under the direction of a Committee.
St. Babtholomsw the Lebs, St. Bartholomew's Hospital, West Smithfield, was
formerly the Chapel of the Brotherhood of St. Bartholomew, and was founded by
Rahere the first Prior, and contained a chapel for the poor. It escaped the Great
Fire, but becoming dilapidated, was taken down, except the tower, and replaced by
an octagon wooden building by Dance. This again was taken down, and a stone
building erected, in 1823, by Hardwicke, B.A. During the operation, the arms of
Edward the Confessor, in stone, were found under the tower (they are now in the
Vestry), and as these arms were assumed by the Edwards, it is supposed that the old
church was erected during one of their reigns. The tower contains very fine Norman
and Early English arches and pillars; the pisdna from the ancient church is used as a
font. A beautiful Chancd has been built in the style of the Lady Chapels in Nor-
mandy ; the reredos of marble and alabaster, as is also the pulpit, with bas-reliefs of the
Sermon on the Mount; stained glass windows by Powell. — Mackeson,
St. Bxkst, Qracechnrch-street, is one of Wren's least attractive edifices, rebuilt after
the Qreat Fire. The original church is mentioned as " S. Benedicti, Graschurch," in a
survey made in the twelfth century ; according to Stow, it was called Grrass-churdi, to
distinguish it firom other churches of the same name, because that the herh-market was
held opponte its western door. Weever mentions only one monument of early
date (1491) in the chnrdi ; but the parish books contain many curious entries. Thus,
at the accession of Queen Mary, in 1553 : — ** Paid to a plasterer, for washing owte and
defadng of snch Scriptures as in the tyme of King Edward VI. were written aboute the
chirche and walls, we bdog commanded to do so by y* Bight Hon. y* lord bishopp of
Wincherter, L** Chan' of England, St. 4d, ;" and " Paid to the paynters for the
making y* Boode, with Mary and John, 6^. ;" while in the first year of Queen Eliza-
beth's reign* 1658, occur, " Payd to a carpenter for pulling down the Boode and Maiy*
164 CUBI08ITIE8 OF LONDON.
4f. and 2d, ;" and " Paid three Ubonrenone day for pulling down the altars and John,
2ff. ^" Later still, in 1642, were sold " the superstitious brasses taken off the grave-
stones for Qs. and 6d" The tower of Wren's church, at the north-west angle, is, with
the cupola and spire, 140 feet high. The interior of the church is a double cube of
60 feet by 30 feet, with a groined odling, crossed by bands. In the register is : " 15S9,
April 14, Robert Barges, a common player." The yard of the Cross Keys Inn, Grace-
church-street, was one of our early theatres.
St. Beitnet Fittk, named from Robert Finke, the original founder (rs also of Finch-
lane adjoining), was destroyed in the Great Fire of 1666, rebuilt by Wren, but taken
down in 1842-44. The remains were sold by auction, Jan. 15, 1846, when lot 12» the
carved oak poor-box, with lock, &c (date on the lock 1683), fetched four guineas; and
lot 17, the carved and panelled oak pulpit, with sounding-board, &c., fifteen guineas.
The paintings of Moses and Aaron, the carved and panelled oak fittings of the altar,
marble floor, and the two tablets with inscriptions in gold, were purchased for 601, The
parish registers record the marriage of Richard Baxter, the celebrated Nonconformist,
to Margaret Charlton, Sept. 10th, 1662 ; and the baptism of " John, the son of John
Speed, merchant-tailor," March 10, 1608.
St. BsNmrr, Paul's Wharf, or St. Bbkst Hude or Httre, was destroyed in the
Chreat Fire, and rebuilt by Wren, In 1683. The burial register records Inigo Jones,
the architect; Sir William Le Keve (Clarendeux) ; John Philpott (Somerset Herald);
and William Oldys (Norroy). Inigo Jones's monument (for which he left 1002.) was
destroyed in the Qreat Fire. Elias Ashmole, the antiquary, was married to his first
wife in this church.
St. Beiwst SHEBXHOO,or Syth, Ward of Cheap, was destroyed in the Great Fire, and
not rebuilt. Stow says its most ancient name is Shome, from one Robert Shome, citizen
and stock-fish monger, " a new builder, repairer, or benefactor thereof, in the reig^ of
Edward II.;" so that Shome is but corruptly Shrog, or more corruptly, Sherehog.
St. Botolph withoitt Aldebsqate escaped the Great Fire, and was rebuilt in
1796. Here are monuments to Dame Anne Pnckington, believed to have written TAe
Whole Duty of Man ; Elizabeth, wife of Sir Thomas Richardson ; Elizabeth Smith,
with cameo bust by Roubiliac; and a tablet to Richard Chiswell, bookseller.
St. Botolph, Aldoate, at the comer of Houndsditch, opposite the Minories, was
rebuilt by G. Dance, 1741-44. It contains monuments of good sculpture to Lord
Dacre, beheaded 1537 ; and Sir Nicholas Carew, of Beddington, beheaded 1538 ; also
an effigies monument to Robert Dowe, who left the St. Sepulchre's Bell, &c {see
p. 48). In the churchyard is a tomb inscribed with Persixm characters, of which
Stow gives the following account : —
" Angast 10, 1626. In Petty France [a part of the cemetery usoonaecrated], oat of Christian borial,
was boned Hodges Shsnghsware, a Peruaa merchant, who with his son came over with the Persian
ambassador, and was boned by his own eon, who read certain prayers, and nsed other oeremonica,
according to the custom of their own oooutiy, morning and evening, for a whole month after the borial ;
ibr whom is set op, at the charge of his son, a tomb of stone with certain Persian characters thereon,
the exposition thos ^— This grave is made for Hodges Shaoghsware, the chiefest servant to the King of
Persia for the space of twen^ years, who came from the King of Persia, and died in his service. If anv
Persian cometh out of that country, let him read this and a prayer for nim. The Lord receive his soul,
for here lieth Maghmote Shaoghsware, who was bom in the town Novoy, in Persia." — Stcn^a Burcev,
ed. 1633, p. 173.
St. Botolfh's is situate mthout the walls of London, near one of the ancient
entrances to the City, supposed to have been built by a bishop, and thence called
Bishopsgate. The old church narrowly escaped the Great Fire of 1666 ; it was re-
built in 1725-29 by James Gold ; its peculiarity is, that the tower rises at the east
end, in Bisbopsgate-street, and the lower part forms the chancel. The living, valued
at 1650^., with a Rectory-house, is the richest in the City and Liberties of London.
The Crown exercises the right of patronage in consequence of having raised the then
rectors to the Episcopal Bench. Dr. Blomfleld (the late Bishop of London) was rector
from 1820 until his consecration as Bishop of Chester in 1828 ; and Dr. Grey was
rector from 1828 until his consecraUon as Bishop of Hereford in 1832. In the chancel is
the monument to Sir Fftul Pindar, whose residence in Bishopsgate-street Without is now
CHUBCHE8 AND CHAFEL8, 156
the Sir Paul Pindar's Head pnblic-honse. He was a rich mercliaiit (temp. James I. and
Charles 1.), and like many other good subjects, was mined by his attachment to the
latter monarch. He was charitable and hospitable, and often gave " the parish venison''
for pnbHc dinners : yet the parishioners made him pay for a license for eating fleslu
Sir Panl presented the perish yearly with a venison pasty ; for in 1684 we find
charged in the parish book 19s, Id, for the mere " fionr, batter, pepper, eggs, making,
and baking." Another curious entry is in 1578 : " Pcdd for frankincense and flowers^
when the Chancellor sate with us, lU.
The «oe1e>ia«tical custom of a new Bector " tolUxurhimaelf in,*' or, lenlly speaking, taking op " the
HveTT of poiwcaBlon," was performed by the Bev. William Sogers, M.A., tne present Reotor, with
the IbnnaliUes deaeribed at p. 46, Bsua. The "reading himself in" took place on the following
Sandwr. The above indoctlon costom seems to imply the general aathority of the Bector over the
peal of beOs: and there is an old saying, that the number of starokes given on the oooasloa will oOm-
spond with the years the inonmbent is to hold the living.
Bow Chubch, see St. Maby-lb-Bow, page 188.
St. Bsidb's, or St. Bridget, Fleet-street, was built by Wren, upon the site of the
old chorch, destroyed in the Great Fire. It was completed in 1703, cost 11,480/.,
and is remarkable for its gpracefol steeple. " Te first stone was layed on the 4th day
of October, 1701, and was finished, and the wether-cocke was put up in September,
1703 ; it being in height 234 feet 6 inches from the surface of ye earth to ye top of
the cro«, ye wether-cocke firom ye dart to ye end is 6 feet 4 indies." In June 1764^
this beautiful steeple was so damaged by lightnings that it was found requisite to take
down eighty-five feet of the stone-work, and in restoring it, the height was lowered
oght feet : the whole cost was 8000/. In 1808 the steeple was again struck by
lightning : ** The metal vane, the cramps with which the masonry was secured, and
the other ironwork employed in the construction, led the electric fluid down the steeple^
in the absence of any continued or better conductor; and as at each pcnnt where the
mnneiion was broken off, a violent disruption necessarily ensued, the stonework was
rent in all parts and projected from its situation. One stone, weighing nearly eighty
poondi^ was thrown over the east end of the church, and fell on the roof of a house in
Bride-lane ; while another was forced from the bottom of the spire, through the roof
of the church, into the north gallery." (Qodwin's Churches of London, vol. ii.)
The Philosophical TransaeUons for 1764 also contains two sdentific investigations of
the above damage. The upper part was» for a long time, preserved on the premises of
a mason in Old-street Boad. The entire spire is one of Wren's most beautiful designs^
and connsts of four stories, the two lower Tuscan, the third Ionic, and the fourth Com-
posite, temCiinating in an obelisk, with a ball and vane. In height and lightness it
approaches nearer to the ezquirite spires of the Pointed style than any other example ;
the details^ however (in Portland stone), are hastening to decay. In the north face of
the tower is a transparent dock-dial, first lit with gas in 1827, and one of the earliest
in the metropolis. In the tower is a peal of twdve beUs (see p. 47) ; and the Organ,
by Harris, is good. The interior is handsome : the great eastern window, above the
altar, is filled with a copy, in stained glass, of Bubens's " Descent from the Cross," in
Antwerp Cathedral: this was executed by Muss in 1824-6, and is a fine produc-
tion. The marble font bears the date 1615. Bichardson, the author of Clarissa
Scarlo909f and who printed his own novels in Salisbury-square, is buried in the diurch ;
and in the vestibde, beneath the tower, is a tablet to Alderman Waithman (interred
here), who sat in five Parliaments for the City of London. The registers of St. Bride's
were nved at the destruction of the first church : they commence from 1587 : and the
vestry-books, which date from 1658, minutdy chronicle the Great Fire, a relic of whidi
is the doorway into a vault, to the right of the entrance firom Bride-passage.
In the old church were buried Wynkin de Worde, whose printing-office was in Fleet-
street; Thomas Sackville, Earl of Dorset (d. 1608), the poet, who commenced The
Mirrowrfor Magistrates ; Sir Bichard Baker, the chronider, who died in the Fleet
Prison, 1644-6 ; Bichard Lovelace, the poet, who died a broken cavalier, " very poor
in body and purse," in Gunpowder-alley, Shoe-lane, in 1658. The register also records
the burial of Ogilby, the transUtor of Homer (d. 1676) ; Mary Carlton, or Frith,
the " English Moll " of Sudibras, alias Moll Cutpurse, an infamous diei^ and pick-
podket, hanged at l^bnm 1672-3 ; also, the burial of Flatman, the poet and painter :
166 CURIOSITIES OF LONDON.
FlAtmao, who Cowley imitates with pains.
And rides a jaded Mase whipt with iooi>e reins.
Lord Bo(^s$Ur,
The present cbarch and much of ite elegant spire were hidden by houses until
after a destructive fire in Bride-passage on Nov. 14, 1824^ when an avenue was
opened from Fleet-street : it was designed by J. B. Fapworth ; this improvement
cost 10,000^., of which Mr. Blades, of Ludgate-hill, advanced 60002.
One of Milton's London abodes was in St. Bride's churchyard : here, after his return
f^m Italy, he lodged with one Russel, a tailor, and devoted himself to the education of
his nephews, John and Edward Phillips, and to the politics of the day. Thence, how-
ever, he soon removed to " a pretty garden-house " in Aldersgate-street.
British akd Fobeioit Sailobs' CHracH (the) was opened April 30, 1845, in the
Danish Church, Wellclose-sqnare, Ratdifie Highway. An inscription over the
entrance states it to have been built in 1696, by Caius (Gabriel Gibber, the sculptor, at
tlie cost of Christian Y., King of Denmark, for such merchants and seamen, hia sub-
jects, who visited the port of London. The architect and his son, CoUey Cibber, are
buried in the vaults ; and in the church is a tablet to Jane CoUey. The pulpit has
four sand-glasses in a brass frame, by which preachers formerly regulated the length of
their sermons.
Cahden Chusch, Camberwell, has a Byzantine Chancel, G. G. Scott, BJk.,
architect. The stained glass window is by Ward, Frith-street* assisted by hints from
Mr. Ruskin (a member of the congregation). The carving and decorations through-
out the church are good.
CATKEvam Cuss (or Christ Church), on the north side of Leadenball-street,
was rebuilt in the year 1629, and consecrated by Laud, Bishop of London, Jan. 16,
1630-31 ; when persons were stationed at the doors of the church to call with a loud
voice on his approach, " Open, open, ye everlasting doors, that the King of Glory may
enter in." When Laud had reached the interior, he fell on his knees, and lifting his
hands, exclaimed, " This place is holy, the ground is holy ; in the name of the Father,
Son, and Holy Ghost, I pronounce it holy ;" then throwing dust from the ground into
the air, he bowed to the Chancel, and went in procession round the church. These
and other ceremonies, fully described in Bushworth, were made grave accusations
against Laud, and brought about his death. The present church is debased Gothic
and Corinthian. Among the monuments removed from the old chtirch is a canopied
figure of Sir Nicholas Throgmorton (d. 1670), from whom Throgmorton-street is named.
By the Will of Sir John Gager, Lord Mayor in 1646, provision is made for a sermon to
be annually preached on the 16th of October, in St. Catherine Cree Church, in com-
memoration of his happy deliverance from a lion, which he met in a desert whilst
travelling in the Turkish dominions, and which sufiered him to pass unmolested.
The old church was the reputed burial-place of Holbein, upon which Mr. W. H.
Black, F.S.A., remarks, in connexion with the recent discoverv of the great Painter's
Will :—
Walpole observes that " the $pot of his (Holbein's) inUrmeni was as niicertaJn as that of his detOk^*
and he might have added (if the circumstances of the '* Plaffue" had been considered)— 1664 was not
a Plsgne year— of the Hme of his death also. Ue alluded to StiTpe's story of Lord Arundel's desire to
erect a monument to the painter's memoxj. Strype's words are (speaking of St. Catherine Cree
Church) : — ** I have been told that Hans Holbein, the great and inimitable painter in King Henir
VIII.'s time, was buried in this church; and that the Earl of Arundel, the great patron of learning and
arts, would have set up a monument to his memory here had he but known whereabouts the corpse laj."
So unoeitain is tradition, that, although this rumour must have originated in a knowledge of the neigh-
bourhood where Holbein died, yet a wrong place is assigned for his burial^ for Cree Chiu<ch and
TJndershaft are situate in the same street, on tne same side of the way, and within 200 yards of each
other. The beautiful pile of Undershaft escaped the Fire of London, but the register ftom 1638
to 1579 inclusively, has not been preserved ; and if it were extant who would believe that a
John Holbein, dymg and buried in 1643, was the Hans Holbein whose life had been prolonged by
all biogTai)her8 to 1664^ unless upon the infallible testimony of the Will now brought to light P—
AreXaologiaf vol. xzxiz.
St. Chad, Ha^erston, has all seats fi^e : " altar cross, and lights at every celebra-
tion of the Holy Communion."— 3facAre«o».
Chsist Chubch, Broadway, Westminster, was designed in 1842, in the Early
CHURCHES A2W CHAPELS. 157
Pointed style, by Poynter ; upon the rite of the former New Chapel : the spire not
built. It has some good stained glass by Willement, especially in the centre window.
The New Chapel was built about 1631 ; Archbishop Laud contributing to the funds
10002L and some most curious glass. At the Rebellion, Sir Robert Harley defaced the
window, laid the painted glass in heaps upon the ground, and trod it to pieces, calling
his sacrilegious antics " dancing a jig to Laud.'' The troopers of the Commonwealth
stabled their chargers in the church lusles ; and Cromwell and his officers are said to
have used it as a ooundl-room. In the adjacent ground was buried Sir William
Waller (d. 1688), the fkmous Fbrliamentarian General in the Civil Wars. On June 26,
1739, Margaret Patten was interred here, at the age of 136 years (?) : she was born
at Lochborough, near Paisley, and was brought to England to prepare Scotch broth for
King James II-; but after his abdication she fell into poverty, and died in St. Mar-
garet's Workhouse, where her portrait is preserved. "None would recognise the
description g^ven of this burial-ground — now so crowded upon by houses — towards the
beginning of the last century, that it was ' the pleasantest churchyard all about
London and Westminster.'" — {JTalcoWs WesttninHer, p. 286.)
Chbist Chttboh, Clapham, of Oothic geometrical design, by Yeacrey. " Incense
and the vestments are used ; this was the first church in London at which they were
used." — Maeketon.
Chbibt Chitbch, DowU'Street, Piccadilly, a stone building; Messrs. Frauds, archi-
tects ; style, " Middle Pointed French Gtothic ;" only the eastern half built.
Chbist Chitbch, Highbury, desigpied by T. Allom, in 1848, has a tower and spire in
the angle between the North Transept and Nave, the spire having gabled and crocketed
lucames. Internally, the plan is equally novel, in the centre becoming an octagon
of eight arches, so as to allow the pulpit and reading-desk, placed against the pillars
of the Chancel arch, to be distinctly seen from all parts of the church.
Chhibt Chttbch, Newgate-street, was built by Wren between 1687 and 1704, and
occupies part of the site of the andent Grey Friars' Church, destroyed by the Great Fire
of 1666. The tower rises directly from the ground, and with the steeple is 153 feet
high ; the basement-story bdng open on three rides, and forming a porch to the
churbh. A large gallery at the west end is appropriated for the Christ's Hospital
Boys ; and here, rince 1797, have been preached the " Spital Sermons." In 1799, the
Spital Sermon on Easter Tuesday was preached by the celebrated Dr. Parr, who occu-
pied nearly three hours in its delivery.
The Spital Bermons originated in an old custom by which some learned person was appointed
jcarlT bj the Kshop of London to preach at St. Paul's Cross, on Good Fridaj, on the subject of * Chiist's
Fassfon:" on the Monday, Tuesday, and Wednesday following, three other divinee were appointed to
uphold the doctrine of " The Resurrection " at the Pulpit Cross in the ** Spital " (Spttalfields). On
the Sunday followintr, a fifth preached at Paul's Cross, and passed judnnent upon the merits of those
who had preceded hmi. At these Sermons, the Lord Mayor and Aldermen attended; ladies also on
the Moadqr forming part of the procession ; and at the close of each day's solemnity, his Lordship and
the Sheriifs gave a private dinner to such of their flriends among the Aldermen as attended the
BenDOn. Firom this practice, the civic festivities at Easter were at length extended to a magnifloent
scale. The children of Christ's Hospital took part in the above solemnities ; so that, in 1684, when it
became necessary to rebuild the Pulpit Cross at the Spital, a gallery was erected also for their aooommo-
dation. In the Great Bebellion, the pulpit was destroyed, and the Sermons were discontinued till the
Beetoration ; after which, the three Spital Sermons, as they were still called, were revived at St. Bride's
Church, in Fleet-street. They have since been reduced to two, and from 1797 have been delivered at
Christ Church, Newgate-street. It was on their first appearance at the Spital that the children of
Christ's Hospital wore the blue costume by which they nave since been distinguished. Instead of the
anhiecU which were wont to be discussed tmm the Pulpit Cross of St Mary's Spital, discourses are now
ddtvered oommemorative of the objects of the five sister Hospitals; and a Report is read of the num-
ber of chOdren maintained and educated, and of sick, disorderly, and lunatic persons for whom pro-
liidon is made in each respectively. On each day, the Boys of Christ's Hospital, with the legend
** Idr is ris^n ** attached to theu- left shoulders, form part of the civic procession; walking on the
first day to the order of their schools, the King's Bovs bearing their nautical instruments ; and on the
second, aooording to their several wards, headed by their nurses.— Abridged from the Rev. Mr.
TloUope's SiMtarjf ^f Chritft Ho$pUal,
Chbibt Chttsch, Poplar, cruciform, with spire, was built at the expense of
Alderman William Cubitt, twice Lord Mayor; some stoue from old London Bridge
was used in the building : it has five bells and a good organ.
Christ Chttrch, Spitalfields (originally a hamlet of St. Dunstan's, Stepney), wai
158 CURIOSITIES OF LONDON,
bnilt by Uawksmoor, a pupa of Wren, and ooiuecrated July 6, 1729. It is entirely
of stone, very massive, and has one of the loftiest spires in London, 225 feet high,
or 23 feet higher than the Monument. It contains a peal of 12 hells, acaroely
inferior in power and sweetness to any in the kingdom ; the tenor wdghing 4928 Ibe.
It has R large organ, the masterpiece of Bridge, containing 2126 pipes. Here is
a monnment to Sir Robert Ladbroke, a whole-length figure, in the full dress of
Lord Mayor : one of the early works of Flazman. This church was greatly injured
by fire on Feb. 17, 1836, shortly after the parishioners had finished paying 8000^.
for repairs. On the mormng of Jan. 3, 1841, the spire and roof of the church
were greatly damaged by lightning, at ten minutes before seven, when the clock
stopped. The lightning struck the cone, or upper part of the spire; thence it
descended to a room above the clock-room, forcing the trap-door from the hinges
down to the floor, melting the iron wires connected with the dock, scorching the
wooden rope-conductors, breaking many of the windows, and making a considerable
fracture in the wall, where the lightning is supposed to have escaped. The roof was
partially covered with large stones, which broke in the lead-work by their weight in
falling ; and the lead near the injured masonry was melted in several places.
St. Clehent's, Eastcheap, Clemenfs-lane, City, is of uncertain foundation : it was
rebuilt, except the south aisle and steeple, in 1658, but destroyed in the Great Fire;
after which it was rebuilt by Wren in 1686, and made to serve the two districts of St.
Clement and St. Martin Orgar, which church stood in St. Martin's-lane. The tower
remains to this day, and serves as an entrance to the site of the old church, occupied
as a burial-ground for the united parishes. St. Clement's Church has little that is
niiteworthy ; but the parishioners were satisfied with its architect : for we find in the
Beg^ter-book, date 1635, " To one-third of a hogshead of wine given to Sir Christopher
Wren, 41. 28," The tower is 88 feet high. The chiurch has a fine organ, and an
elaborately carved pulpit and desk, and souncUng-board ; and a marble font, with a
curious oak cover. In the list of rectors is Dr. Benjamin Stone, presented to the living
by Bishop Jnxon in 1637 ; but deemed popishly affected, and declared unfit to hold
office, in Cromwell's time, and confined in Crosby Hall ; thence removed to Plymouth,
and set Aree by paying 60Z. fine : but Stone recovered his benefice in 1660. Another
celebrated rector was Bishop Pearson, who, in the old church, delivered the Lectures
forming his Expoaiiion of the Creed, which, when published in 1658, he dedicated to
the parishioners of St. Clement, Eastcheap ; the work is to this day used as a text-
book in the examination of candidates in divinity. Among the former organists at this
church were Purcell, Battishill, and Whitaker.
St. Cleuent'b Daiteb, Strand, the first church west of Temple Bar, is said by
Stow to have been so called " because Harold, a Danish king, and other Danes, were
buried there." Strype gives another reason : that the few Danes left in the kingdom
married English women, and compulsorily lived between Westminster and Ludgate;
and the.*e built a synagogue, called " Ecclesia Clementis Danorum." This account
Fleetwood, the antiquary. Recorder of London in the reigpi of Elizabeth, reported to
the Lord Treasurer Burleigh, who lived in this parish. The body of the old church
was taken down in 1680, and rebuilt to the old tower in 1682, by Edward Pierce,
nndcr the gratuitous directions of Wren, as recorded on a marble slab in the north
aisle. In 1719, Gibbs added the present tower and steeple, about 116 feet high, with
a peal of ten bells. The clock strikes the hours twice, " the hour being first struck on
a larger bell, and then repeated on a smaller one, so that hns the first been miscounted,
the second may be more correctly observed." (A. Thomson's Time and Timekeepers^
p. 77.) In addition to the dock is a set of chimes, which play the old 104th Psalm,
though somewhat crazily. In the church are buried Otway and Nat Lee, the dramatic
poets ; and Bymer, compiler of the Fmdera, &c.
Dr. Johnson was a constant attendant at the service of St. Clement's Danes, in one
of the pews of which (No. 18), in the north gallery, he had a seat for many years
against the larg^ pillar at the end, which bears the following inscription, written by
the Rev. Q, Croly, LL.D., Rector of St. Stephen's, Walhrook : —
"In this pew and beside this pillar, for many years attended Divine Serrioe, the celebrated Dr.
Baarael Johnson, the philoeopher, the poet, the great lezioogrspher, the profoond morallBt, and chief
CHUBCEE8 AND CHAPELS. 15^
writer of his time. Bom, 1709; died, 1784 In remembranoe and honour of noble focalties, nobly
cmplojed, lome inhabitants of the parish of St. Clement Danes have placed tliis slight memorial, A.11.
1851."
St. CLEiDzirT's, Tslingtoii, of Gothic design, G. G. Scott, B.A., architect, was erected
at the sole expense of George Cabitt, Esq., M.P. : it has three good bells ; organ by
Walker; and stained windows in the Chancel by Clayton and Bell.
St. Clbmknt's, Tork-place» Bamsbnry, is a spacious brick church, designed by G. G.
Soott, R A., and built at the expense of George Cubitt, Esq., M.P. ; cost nearly 80002. ;
opened 1865. The west front is striking; it is lofty, has a good doorway, over which
are lancet windows, and above these a well-carved seated statue of St. Clement, within
a oiche ; whilst the gable is crowned by a stepped open bell-cote, having two large bells
in the lower and a smaller one in the upper stage. The interior is spacious ; the Nave,
of six bay% is divided from the aisles by cylindrical stone columns, which support tall
brick arches, . and a clerestory with triplet lancet windows over each arch. The
Chancel IS similarly lighted, and has a painted oval light, filled, like the windows below,
with painted glaas. The Chancel arch is noble, and the roof an open timber one, of
bigh pitch : the walls are of plun yellow brick.
St. Dioins' Backohttbgh (behind the lineof Fenchurch-street), is the third church
upon this site, and was rebuilt by Wren after the Great Fire of 1666 : it has a tower
90 feet high. In the vestry -room are preserved four of the large syringes, at one
time the only engines used in London for the extinction of fires ; they are about 2 feet 8
inches long, and were attached by straps to the body of the fireman. The organ,
fbr which, in 1722, the sum of 7412. 9«. was subscribed, was built by B^field, Jordan,
and Bridge : " this magnificent instrument is in its original state." — {Dr. Rimhault,)
There is a peal of ten bells, for which, in 1727, a sum of 4792. ISs, was subscribed.
St. DimsTAK*B-iN-THE-EAST, between Tower-street and Upper Thames-street, was
nearly destroyed in the Great Fire of 1666, and was restored by Wren in 1698 : it
bas a stone tower and spire, supported on four arched ribs, springing from the angles
of the tower: this is Wren's best work. in the Pointed style; but it generally re<
tembles the spire of St. Nicholas' Church, at Newcastle-upon-Tyne, built in the
fifteenth century. John Carter, however, says : — " St. Nicholas's tower is so lofty,
and of such a girth, that, to compare g^eat things with small, our London piece
of vanity is but a mole-hill to the Newcastle ' mountain,' the pride and glory of the
northern hemisphere." There is a tradition, that the plan of St. Dunstan's tower
uid spire was furnished by the architect's daughter, Jane Wren, who died in 1702,
apred 26, and was buried under the choir of St. Paul's Cathedral. Lady Dionysia
Williamson, in 1670, gave 40002. towards the rebuilding of St. Dunstan's. After the
dreadful storm in London through the night of the 26th November, 1703, Wren
bearing next morning that some of the steeples and pinnacles had been damaged,
qmckly replied, '< Not St. Dunstan's, I'm quite sure." The old church had a bfby
leaden steeple. The body of the present church was rebuilt of Portland stone, in the
Perpendicdar style, by Laing and Tite, in 1817. The interior is divided into three
aides by clustered columns and pointed arches. The east window represents symboli-
cally the Law and the Gospel ; the north, Christ Blessing Little Children ; and th^
loath, the Adoration of the Magi. In the vestry is a wood carving, by Gibbons, of
the arms of Archbishop Tenison. In the south churchyard is a Bookery.
St. DuKSTAir's-nr-THE-WBST, Fleet-street, was designed by John Shaw, F.R.S.
ttd F.SX, in 1831-88, set beck 80 feet from the site of the former church, which
projected considerably beyond the street-line. It just escaped the Great Fire oi 1666,
vbich stopped within three houses of it ; as did also another fire in 1730. A View in
1739 shows the oldest portion to be the tower and bell-turret, the latter containing a
"nail bell which was rung every morning at a quarter before seven o'clock. The body
of the church is Italianized Gothic, with battlements and circular-headed windows ;
■^ops with overhanging signs are built against the south and west walls, though pre*
▼loosly the churchyard was thus built in, and was a permanent station for booksellers,
M appears by many imprints. Thus, <* Epigrams by H. P.," Ac.—" and are to be
xmlde by John Hdme^ at his sboppe in St. Dunstan's Churchyarde, 1608, qto." John
J
160 CURIOSITIES OF LONDON.
Smethwick had " his shop in St. Dunstan's churchyard, in Fleet-street, under the
Diall ;" and here, in 1653, Richard Marriott puhlisheicl the first edition of Walton's
Angler, for 18d. The church dock was one of London's wonders : it had a krge gilt
disl, overhanging Fleet-street, and above it two figures of savages, of life-size, carved
in wood, and standing within an alcove, each bearing in his right hand a club, with
which they struck the quarters upon two suspended bells, moving their heads at the
same time. This dock and figures were the work of Mr. Thomas Harrys, in 1671,
then living at the lower end of Water-lane, who received for his work 35^. with the
old dock, and the sum of 4>l. per annum to keep the whole in repair.* Originally
the clock was within a square ornamental case with a semicircular pediment, and the
tube from the church to the dial was supported by a carved figure of Time, with
expanded wings, as a bracket; when ijtered, in 1768, it cost the parish 1102. Strype
calls the figures " two savages, or Hercules ;" Ned Ward, " the two wooden horolo-
gists;" and Cowper, in his Table Talk, likens a lame poet
" When labour and when dolneea, dab In hand.
Like the two flgnies at St. DonjBtan'i, stand."
In 1766, the degant statue of Queen Elizabeth, which stood on the west nde of
Ludgate, was put up at the east end of St. Dunsfean's Church ; and the other figures,
King Lud and his two sons, were deposited in the parish bone-house. The old church
was taken down in December, 1829, when the materials were sold by auction : the
bell-turret for lOf . ; the fiag and flag-staff for 12s. ; and an iron standard, with copper
vane, warranted 850 years old (P), weighing three-quarters of a cwt., was sold for
21. Is. At another sale, in 1830, the statue of Queen Elizabeth sold for 161. 10s., and
a stuned-glass window for 4/. &s. The dock, figures, &c. were purchased by the late
Marquis of Hertford, and placed in the grounds of his villa in the Regent's Park,
where they strike the hours and quarters to this day. The new church of St. Bunstaii
was consecrated July 31, 1832, which the architect did not live to witness, he having
died July SO, 1831, the twelfth day after the external completion of the edifice.t It
18 in the latest Pointed style, and has a lofty tower surmounted by an elegant lantern,
130 feet high (of Eetton stone), different finom any other in the metropolis, but resem-
bling St. Botolph's, Boston, Lincolnshire ; St. Helen's, York ; and St. George's, at
Bamsgate, built in 1825. Over the entrance-porch are sculptured the heads of Tyndale,
the Reformer; and Dr. Donne, who was once vicar of the church : they are considered
faithful portraits. Above is a clopk, with three dials, curiously coloured and gilt in
the embellished taste of the architectural period ; and a belfry, with eight fine bells
from the old church, the sound of which receives effect from the four large windows
which are the main features of the tower. The enriched stone lantern is perforated
with Qothic windows of two heights ; the whole being terminated by an ornamental
pierced and very rich crown parapet. The body of the church is of octagon form,
and has eight recesses, with as many windows above, containing good stained glass.
The roof is formed by eight iron spandrel-beams, projecting from an angle towards the
centre, and there connected by an iron ring ; and from the enriched keystone hangs
the chandeUer. The northern recess contains the altar-table, of oak elaborately
carved : and the altar-piece presents three admirably carved canopies, of fi^reig^ work-
manship. Above is a large Pointed window, filled with stained glass, by Willement,
in the andent manner : it contains figures of the Evangelists ; the crown of thorns and
the nails; the spear and sponge upon a reed; the Holy Lamb ; and the inscription, in
black letter, ** Deo et ecdesiaB fratres Hoare dicaverunt, anno Domini mdcocxxxii."
This is, altogether, one of the most elegant church interiors in the metropolis. In
May, 1839, the statue of Queen Elizabeth, already mentioned, was placed in a niche,
flanked with two pilasters, above the doorway of the parochial schools, east of the
principal entrance to the church. On the west side is the Law Life Insurance Office,
designed by John Shaw, in the style that prevailed between the last period of Pointed
* So early as 1478 there was a similar piece of mechaniBm in Fleet-etreet. Stow describes a conduit
erected in toe above year, near Shoe-lane, with angels having " sweet«Boanding bells before them ;
whereapon, by an engine placed in the tourer, they, divers hoars of the day and night, with hammers
chimed such an hymn as was appointed." There is, we believe, a like contrivance to that at St.
Donstan's, at Norwich Cathedral. (See also FouI'm Jaoka, p. 106.)
t The interior was finished by Us sod, John Shaw.
CETIBGHES AND GHAFEL8. 161
architectnre (of which St. Donstan's Church is an example), and the complete revival
of the architecture of Greece and Rome. In the old church was a large hour-glass, in
slver firame ; of the latter, in 1723, two heads were made for the parish staves. The
Rev. Winiam Bomaine was rector of the old church in 1749, when it was generally so
crowded that the pew-opener's place was worth 502. per annum. The font is ancient.
St. Dttsstak'b, Stepney, a Perpendicular church, is famed in story for its legend
of <* The Fish and King," and the popular hallad of ** The Cruel Knight» or Fortu-
nate Farmer's Daughter;" her identity is referred to Lady Berry, whose tomb is on
the outer east wall, with the fish and annulet in the arms thereon: but the finding
of a ring in a fish is an inddent of much greater antiquity than Lady Berry's
time (1696), and occurs in the Arabian Nightt^ EtUertainmefUs, The churchyard is
noticed in the Speeiator, by Steele, for the number and oddity of its epitaphs. Here
lies the fiither of Dr. Mead, who was born over the antique brick gateway opposite the
rectory, and first began practice at Stepney ; also Rev. W. Yickers, author of the Com^
fawm to the Altar ; and Roger Crab, who lived Jong on bran, dock-leaves, grass, and
water. Within the church is the splendid tomb of Sir Henry Colet, Lord Mayor in
1486 and 1495, and father of the founder of St. Paul's School. Hero also is a marble
monument of the Good Samaritan, by Sir R. Westmacott, R.A., to B. Kenton, Esq.
(d. 1800), leaving 63,5002. to charity schools, and 30,0002. to his friends. In the
western porch is a stone reputed to have been lurought from the wall of Carthage.
St. Edmuitd'b (the King and Martyr), Lombard-street, has also been called St.
Edmund's Grass Church, because of a grass-market held here : whence Grasschurch-
•treet, now Gracechurch-street. The church was destroyed in the Great Fire, and re-
built by Wren : it has a tower and incongruous steeple, 90 feet high, and a projecting
bracket dock. The altar-piece has some fine carvings, and two puntings of Moses and
AaroD by William Etty, 1833 : above is a stained ghiss window, with the arms of
Qaeen Anne, •* set up in the memorable year of union, 1707 j" besides two other
stained glass windows, of superior excellence, representing St. Paul and St. Peter.
St. Ethslbubga's, Bishopsgate-street, a (Gothic church, which escaped the Great
Fire, and retains some of its Early English masonry ; it has been restored by Withers :
it was andently in the patronage of tiie Convent of St. Helen. It is well known for
the *' short services for City men," and, according to tradition, is frequented by sailors
returning from voyages, or immediately previous to sailing. Here incense is used on
Saints' Days; and stoles and altar vestments, according to the canonical colours.
(Uaekewn.) Traces of a reredos were found during the repairs, and Roman coins and
l>ricks have been discovered in the churchyard. The western arch is said to have
formed part of the gateway of St. Helen's Priory. Under it John Hudson and many
of his crew came to receive the Holy Sacrament before they left their native shores in
ICIO (Rev. Mackenzie Waloott, QetUleman'a Magazine, June, 1863.) The church-
wardens of St. Ethelburga appear, from the accounts, to have provided profusely for
their Asoentnon-Day dinner, 1686: — ^" Three quarters of lamb; 600 of sparagrasse^
nllatering, and spinnage ; 400 oranges and lemmons, three hams, Westphalia bacon, and
\ lb. of toboccoe." I^iere are also charges for " yew and box to decke ye church ;"
**hearbe8" for the same ; " wands and nosegays," *' strawiugs and greenes." Dryden's
utagonist, Luke MDboume, died, April 15, 1720, rector of St Ethelburga's. "The
▼lew of this church, by West and Toms (1737) exhibits several of the acyoining houses,
ttnd is one of the most interesting of Old London illustrations." — Cunningham,
St. Ethxlbida's, Ely-place, Holbom, is all that remains of the ancient palace of
^ Bishops of Ely, and retains much of its original aspect : the interior roof is boldly
*rched ; on each side is a row of noble windows, though their tracery has disappeared ;
the pinnade-work between and overtopping them is very fine, and at the east end is
"one fine Decorated window, of curious composition." Evelyn records the consecra-
^ here of Dr. Wilkms, Bishop of Chester, in 1668, when Dr. Tillotfion preached;
•i^^ April 27, 1693, Evelyn's daughter Susannah was married here to William Draper*
^•> by Dr. Tenisoo, then Bish^ of Linoohi. Cowper thus chronicles an amusing
X
162 CURIOSITIES OF LOKDON,
occurrence in this chapel, at the time of the defeat of the Toang Pretender hj the
Duke of Cumberland, in 1746 :—
" So in the cbapel of old Ely Hoom,
When wanderlnff Charles, who meant to be the Third,
Had fled from William* and the news was freeh,
The limple derk, but loyal, did annonnce,
And eke did roar right merrily two etavee,
Song to the praiee and glory of Kit^ Qwrgt.**
The cbapel, after being leased to the National Society for a school-room, was for
some time closed; but on Dec 19, 1843, was opened for the service of the Established
Church in the Welsh language; this being the first performance of the kind in London.
St. Geobgb'b, Campden-hill, Kensington, E. B. Keeling, architect, cost 7000Z.,
defrayed by Mr. J. Bennett. In plan it is cruciform, and has a tower with a lofty
spire, and an apsidal Chancel. It is of Early Second Pointed style, but of French
character. The tower is ornamented with bands, mouldings, and dressings. The
entrance is by a continued porch or Qalilee at the west. The interior is lofty, lined
with various coloured bricks, and shafts of red Mansfield stone. The roof is of very high
pitch, and decorated in polychromy ; behind the altar is a tall Teredos. Opened 1864.
St. Geobgs's, Hanover-square, was completed by John James in 1724 ; the parish
being taken out of St. Martin's-in-the-Fields. St. Greorge's is built upon ground given
by Lieut.-Gen. W. Stewart : it has a stately and august Corinthian portico, and a
handsome and well-proportioned steeple ; still, it can only be viewed in profile ; but
*' were it not for two or three intervening houses, it would be seen in the noblest point
of sight in the world." The interior has a large altar-picture of the Last Supper,
attributed to Sir James Thomhill ; above it is a painted window, foreign, of the 16th
century, with the Tirgin and Child, the Crucifixion, ecclesiastical personages, masonic
emblems, &c. ; the altar-piece, in its sculptured framework, and the painted glass in
its architectural recess, is effective; but this Gothic window in a Roman church is a
glaring absurdity.
•"The view down Ctoorge-ttreet, from tiie upper side of Hsnover-Mnare, is one of the most enter-
taining in the whole dty : the sides of the square, the area in the middle, the breaks of boUding that
form the entrance to the vista, bat above all, the beaatiful protjedion of the portico of St. George's
Chorch, are all circmnstances that onite in bMuty, and make the scene perfect.' —£a(pi.
St. George's, Hanover-square, also possesses a burial-ground at a short distance on
the Bayswater-road. Here is the grave of Sterne, with a stone set up by two
"Brother Masons:" here, too, lay Sir Thomas Picton, who fell at the Battle of
Waterloo, in 1815 ; his remains were removed to St. Paul's Cathedral in 1859.
St. Geobob's in the East, Batcliffe Highway, designed by Hawksmoor, 1715-29,
in an original and massive st^le, has a very picturesque spire. The altar-piece is a
painting of " Jesus in the Garden," by Clarkson. In the churchyard is buried Joseph
Ames (d. 1759), author of Typographical AniiquUies, originally a plane-maker, and
afterwards a shipchandler at Wapping ; he lies in a stone coffin, in virgin earth, at the
depth of eight feet. This church was, for a conuderable period, the scene of disg^ce-
tai riots upon the plea of opposition to the manner of conducting the service.
In this parish are the Schools and Asylum founded by Mr. Baine, a wealthy brewer, in 1717 and
1736 ; who also provided that on May 1 and December 28, annually, a marriage-portion of lOOi. should
be presented to two younff women, former inmates of the School, and wh<f have attained the a^
of twenty-two years. The bridegrooms must be inhabitants of St. George's-in-the-East, or of Wapping,
orShadwell; and the young women draw lots for the portion, one hundred new sovereigns, usually
wit into a handsome bag, made by a young lady of St. George's parish, and presented at a dinner of the
trustees. In the morning a discourse is preached in the Church, " On Diligence and Industry in our
Calling;" after which the drawing takes place at the Asylum.
St. George's, Hart-street, Bloomsbnry, was designed by Hawksmoor in handsome
style, and was consecrated in 1731 ; a district for its parish being taken out of that of
St. Giles's-in-the-Fields. This church is remarkable for standhig north and south ;
the tower and steeple are placed by the side of the m^ edifice, the favourite practice
of F^Iadio. Upon the tower, on the four sides, rises a range of unattached Corinthian
pillars and pediments ; above is a series of steps, with lions and unicorns at the comers,
guarding the royal arms, and which supports at the apex, on a short column, a statue.
CHTIBGHES A2W GHAPEL8. 163
in Boman costame, of George I. The design ib from Fliny'g description of the first
manaoleam, the tomh of King Maasolns, in Caria. Walpole calls this steeple a master-
Jtroke of ahsurdifcy, and it has provoked this epigram :^
"When Harry the Eighth left the Pope in the lurch,
The people of SiiglaDd made him head of the Church;
But George's good Butyecta. the Bloomabury i>eopIe,
Instead of the church, made him head of the steeple."
More admired is the magnificent portico of eight Corinthian columns, which Hawks-
moor added to lus design, infinenced hy GibWs portico at St. Martin's-in-the-Fields,
then jnst completed ; but St. George's is the better, from its height above the level of
the street. Here are a tablet to the great Lord Mansfield; and a monument to Mr.
Charles Grant, by Bacon, R.A.
St. Giobge thb Mastyb, Queen-square, Bloomabury, built in 1706, as a chapel of
ease to St. Andrew's, HolbGm, was declared a perish church in 1723 ; of which Dr.
Stokeley, the Roman-British antiquary, was many years the rector : in his MS. Diary,
1749, formerly in the poasession of Mr. Britton, is described the then rural character of
Queen-square and its vidnity. The parish burial-ground is in the rear of the Found-
ling Hospital : a strong prejudice formerly existed against new churchyards, and no
person was interred here till the ground was broken for Robert Nelson, author of
FatU and FetHvals, whose character for piety reconciled^others to the spot : people
like to be buried in company, and in good company. Nancy Dawson, the dancer, of
Coveut Garden and Drury-lane Theatres (noted for hornpipes) lies here.
St. Gsobgb the Mabttb, Southwark, was built in 1733-36, by John Price, upon
the site of the old church ; the parish having been originally given by liVilliam the
Conqueror to the noble family of Arderne, and for some time attached to the Priory
of Biermondsey. Stow describes the former church as almost directly over against
Suffolk House, formerly the mansion of Charles Brandon, Duke of Suffolk, the brother-
in-law of Henry VIII. ; now the site of the premises of Mr. Pigeon,' the distiller.
There were buried in the old church, Bonner, Bishop of London, who died in the Mar-
ihalsea ; and Rushworth, author of the Collections, who died in the King's Bench ;
both these prisons being in the parish. Edward Cocker, engraver and teacher of
writing and arithmetic, is also stated upon a sexton's evidence to have been interred
here : his Arithmetic, a posthumous work, was first published " by John Hawkins,
writing-master, near St. George's Church." Th^ present church has a lofty stone
spire and tower, with a fine penl of eight bells; the large bell is tolled nightly, and
thought to be a relic of the curfew custom. Hogarth, in his plate of Southwark Fair,
represents Figg, the fiimons prizefighter, and Cadman, fiying by a rope from the tower
of St. George's Church ; the fair being held in that part of the Mint which lies in the
rear of the houses opposite.
There Is preserved a onrioos handbill, or afflche, orinted in black letter, which must have been
promulgated previoni to the snppression 3f religions nouses in the reign of Henry VII I. It is sur-
iDonnted by a small woodcut of St. George slaying the Dragon, and by a child. It appears from
Stavel^'s Mi$taiy 0/ Ckureksa tn England, p. 99, that the monks were sent up and down the country
with brtsft of a smdlar character to tiie above, to gather contributions of the people ; and it is most
probsble that the collectors were ontborised to grant special tndKJ^tfMtfM proportionate totlie value of
the eootribations. One of these handbilla is reprinted in JSotet and QKm«f, No. 84.
St. Giles's, Camberwell, is one of the largest churches built in England since the
Befbrmation : it occupies the site of the old brick church, burnt on Sunday, Feb. 7,
1S41. The new church, designed by Scott and Moffiitt, is massively built entirely of
stone, and was consecrated Nov. 21, 1844 : it is in the Transition style, from Early
English to Decorated ; cruciform in plan, with a large central tower and spire, 207 feet
high, and the tower thirty feet square; it has a fine peal of bells, by Mears. The out-
side length of the church exceeds 153 feet. The interior hajs an open timber roof, and
oak fittings; a very powerful Organ by Bishop ; and several stained glass windows by
Ward and Nixon, the largest, over the altar, enriched with the symbolism of the
thirteenth century.
St. Giles's, Cripplegate, is the successor of a church founded by Alfun, subsequently
the first hospitaller of tiie Priory of St. Bartholomew. It was built in 1090, near the
X2
164 CURIOSITIES OF LONDON.
pOBtem in the City wall, called Cripple-gate, from an adjdning Hospital for lame
people (Camden), or from the nnmeroos cripples begging there (Stow); and it was
dedicated to St. Giles, as the patron of cripples ; it was small, and its site was " where
now standeth the vicarage-hoose." In the year 1545, it suffered greatly from fire, but
was soon repaired, and partially rebuilt ; and in 1682, the tower was raised 15 feet ; it
has a peal of twelve bells, beades one in the turret, and a very musical set of chimes,
sud to have been constructed by a working mechanic. The interior is divided into a
Nave and aisles by clustered columns and pointed arches, and the ceiling of the Chancel
is painted with cherubim. Here are buried John Fox, the martyrologist, described in
the register as " householder, preachar ;" John Speed, the historian, with his bust, onoe
painted and gilt; John Milton and his fiither, under the clerk's desk : a bust of the
poet, by Bacon, R.A., with a tablet, were set up on the north side of the nave, by
Samuel Whitbread, in 1793. The entry in the parish roister is : « 12 November,
1674, John Milton, gentleman, oonsnmpcon, chancell." In the Chancel, too, are tab-
lets to Constance Whitney and Margaret Lucy, both descendants of Sir Thomas Lucy,
of Charleoote, WarwicksUre : the former represents a female rising from a coffin, and
has been erroneously supposed to commemorate a lady who, having been buried while
in a trance, was restored to life through the cupidity of a sexton in digging up the
body to get possession of a ring left upon her finger. Several of the actors from
the Fortune Theatre, Gk)lding-lane, are buried here. Here, too, rests Sir Martin
Frobisher, one of the earliest of the Arctic voyagers (d. 1594-5) ; and Henry Welby;
the Qmb-street hermit, yet a man of exemplary charity (d. 1636). And the register
records the marriage of Oliver Cromwell with Elizabeth Bowchier, August 20, 1620.
In 1861, the restoration of the church was commenced, " in honour of the memory of
John Milton;" a monument has been erected, as a memorial of the poet, in the south
aisle, near the chancel. The cenotaph is nearly 13 feet high, and about 8 feet wide at
the base; and the body of the work, consisting of carved Caen stone, is divided by-
pillars of coloured marble, thus forming three canopied niches. In the central niche
the bust of the poet, whidi was executed by Bacon, has been placed. Beneath this is
a marble tablet, with the following simple record : — " John Milton, author of * Para-
dise Lost.' Bom December, 1608. Died November, 1674." The date of his father's
death in 1646, and the name of Mr. Samuel Whitbread, who placed the tablet in the
church in 1793, are also engraved thereon. Milton lived in the parish — first in
Barbican, subsequently in Jewin-street^ and finally, in Artillery -walk, where he died.
There is an apocryphid story of tlft poef s remains being irreverently disturbed, and
scattered, in the year 1790; but the evidence of identity is weak, and it is recorded
that the corpse then found was that of a female, and of smaller stature than that of
the poet. The story of the assumed desecration is told in " The Diary of General
Murray," in the Monthly Magcudne, August, 1833. The restoration of the church in-
cludes windows of rich memorial glass contributed by parishioners; the i*eoonstructdon
of the Chancel with an open roof, and the reglazing of a magnificent window, long
blocked up. In the adjoining burial-ground remains a bastion of the old London wall.
St. Giles's-in-the-FieIiDS, on the south side of High-street, was formerly in the
fields, and the parish the village of St. Giles; the church being traceable to the chapel
of a Hospital for Lepers, foxmded about 1117, by Queen Matilda, consort of Henry I.
The ancient church was taken down in 1623, and a brick edifice was erected in its
place : this was removed in 1730, and the present church, designed by Henry Fllt-
croft, was completed in 1734. It is built of Portland stone, and has a tower and
spire, 160 feet high, with eight bells. Above the entrance gateway, in the lunette,
is " The Day of Judgment," in alto-relievo, brought from the Lich-gate, or Resurrec-
tion-gate of the old church in 1687 ; it is well described by Mr. George Scharf, jun., in
a paper read to the Society of Antiquaries, in 1855, upon " Representations of the Last
Judgment :"—
The flgrares (he tells ni) are very small in proportion to the semicirciilor lanette they ooeupy. The
Sftvionr stands in the clouds, snrroonded by rays, holdingr the banner of redemption, and with His
right hand pointing upwards. Angels playing musical instruroents, and tumultuonsly expressing the
Joys of heaven, completely surround Him. Neither the Virgin Mary nor Apostles are to be seen in
order. The prominent attitudes of the rising dead, and of the condemneo, betray markedly the in-
fluence of Miohael Angdo} Xbaj have been directly and ignorantly copied ttom. his outline oonoeptioa.
OEXmCBJES AND CEAPEL8. 165
This alto-reliero is Terr curiooftj and, beinfr both elaborate and well preserved, deeerrea to be care-
fully drawn and published. (It forma one of the many illastrations of Sir. Scharrs paper in the ArehtBc
icfCa^ Tol. xxxvL part 20.) The treatment ia very unworthy of the aul^ect, bat, aa a piece of earring, it
is remarkably good.
Thia Bculptnre was formerly, placed over the nortb-wefitem gateway, which has 1)een
taken down, and a new gateway erected opposite the western or principal door of the
church, over which is placed the alto-relievo.
At St. Giles's were huried Chapman, the translator of Homer; Lord Herhert of
Cherbury, who lived in Ghreat Queen-street; Shirley, the dramatist, and his wife; Sir
Roger L'Estrange, the political writer; and Andrew Marvell, "a man in whose repu-
tation the glory of the patriot has eclipsed the fine powers of the poet." The monu-
ment to Chapman, built by Inigo Jones at his own expense, is now in the churchyard,
against the south wall of the church. In the churdiyard, too, is the altar-tomb of
Bicbard Pendrell, who aided in the escape of Charles II. ; and a few years since was
revived the custom of decorating this tomb on Restoration Day (May 29) with branches
of oak. The finest monument in the present church is the recumbent effigies of the
Ihichefis Dudley (d. 1670), preserved in grateful memory of her munificence to the
parish. At the place of public execution, a short distance north-west of the church.
Sir John Oldcastle, Lord Cobham, was hung in chains and roasted over fagots in 1417,
during the reign of Henry Y., his early friend. The phrase, " St. Giles's Bowl," is
referred to the custom of giving, at the Hospital gate, every malefoctor on his way to
Tfbum a bowl of ale, as his last worldly draught, which practice was also continued
at an hostel built upon the site of the monastic house ; of this the Bowl Brewery,
taken down in 1849, was the reprenentative ; and the bowl itself is said to be in ex-
istence. The transparent dock-dial of the church was lit with gas in 1827, the first
in the metropolis; and opposite, in 1842, was made one of the earliest experiments
with wood-paving. In Endell-street, in 1845, was bmlt a district church, in the Early
Pointed style, l^ Ferrey — a timely provision for the spiritual destitution of the parish.
St. Giles's possesses a cemeteiy in the Lower St. Fancras-road, where are buried, each
beneath an altar-tomb, John Flaxman, our greatest English sculptor ; and Sir John
Soane, the architect. (See Cemetesies, p. 82.)
St. Gbxooby by St. Paul's was contiguous to the Lollards' Tower, which had
once been used as a prison for heterodox divines. It stood at the south side of the
Cathedral, in Castle Baynard Ward. It was very ancient, for the body of Edmund,
king of the East Angles, who was martyred by the Danes in 870, rested there for three
years. — Newcovrt.
St. Helen's, Bishopsgate, on the east side of Bishopsgate-street 'Within, was once
the church of the Nunnery of St. Helen, the site of which, judging from pavements
Ibund here^ was originally occupied by a Roman building.
The church consists of two broad aisles, 122 feet in length, and two chantry chapels.
The north aisle, known as the Nuns' Quire, was appropriated to the use of the inmates
of the Convent, and separated from the south or parish usle by a wooden screen ; tins
screen, together with the altar, was removed at the dissolution of the House. For-
tunately, 17 of the original carved miserere seats have been preserved, and the hagio-
scope which formerly communicated with the crypt still remains. The interior of the
edifice, with its columns and pointed arches, is picturesque : it contains more monu-
ments, perhaps, than any other church in the metropolis ; and these being altar-tombs
upon the floor, increase the appearance of antiquity and solemnity. They include a
freestone altar-tomb, with quatrefoil panels enclosing shields; upon the ledger lie
fhU-length alabaster effigies of Sir John Crosbie and his first wife Anneys or Agnes ;
the knight wears his aldermanic gown over plate armour. Also, a canopied monument
to Sir W. Pickering, in dress armour, reclining upon a pillow of matting (d. 1542) ;
several kneeling figures, elaborately painted and g^lt, in memory of Sir Andrew Judd
(in armour) (d. 1558) ; a very large sculptured altar-tomb to Sir Thomas Gresham,
who founded the Royal Excliange ; a monument representing Martin Bond, captain of
the trained bands at Tilbury when the Spanish Armada was expected — he is sitting
within a tent^ with sentries, &c. (d. 1643); a tomb of Francis Bancroft (d. 1726),
built in his lifetime, when he directed that his body should be embalmed, and placed
166 CUBI08ITIE8 OF LONDON.
in a coffin unfastened; and a table monument by N. Stone to Sir Julius Caesar,
Master of the Bolls to James I. (1636), the monument erected in the previous year,
with the Ijatin inscription sculptured, as if on a folded deed, an engagement of the
deceased to pay the debt of nature whenever it shall please God to appoint it. In the
vestibule also are several elaborate monuments, displaying figures; and an alms-box
supported by a curiously-carved figpire of a mendicant. Here are also fine monumental
brasses of the fifteenth and sixteenth centuries. The church was restored in 1866.
St. Kathabine's, the church of the Eoyal Hospital of St. Katharine, rebuilt in
1827, on the east side of the Regent's Park, after the demolition of the ancient
Hospital and Church, " at the Tower," for the site of St. Katharine's Docks.
More than 700 years ago, in the reign of King Stephen, 1148, Queen Matilda fi^nnded
and endowed, on the east side of the Tower of London, a Hospital dedicated to St.
Katharine; the foundation was confirmed by the grants of succeeding sovereigns,
and the revenues increased by Queen Eleanor, and other royal donors. The mastership
is in the £^ft of the Queen Consort ; if there be no such personage, the Queen Dowager.
Provision was made for a master, who, according to an ordinance of Queen Phifippa,
was to be a priest. There were to be maintained also three Brothers, who were to be
priests, and three Sisters, all under obligation of perpetual chastity, and to "serve and
minister before God," and do works of charity. Masses were to be said daily in the
chapel, one to be for the souls of all the Kings and Queens of England, l^vision
was to be made also for 24 poor men and 10 poor women ; and the charter of Queen
Eleanor directed that when in future times the means of the Hospital should augment^
the number of chaplains and poor men and women relieved should be increased. In
the reign of Henry VIII. the income was about 8652. a year.
The Church and Hospital, in the Regent's Park, designed by A. Poynter, is in the
florid Gothic style, has octagonal towers, with a lai*ge painted window of beautiful
tracery. Among the relics of the old church is a finely enriched tomb, part of a
chantry chapel, thus inscribed :
** This monnnient was erected in the Collegiate Chnrch of St. Katharine, near the Tower, to the
roemoij of John Holland Dake of Exeter, Earl of Hnntingdon and Ivry, Lord of Sparr, Admiral of
England, Ireland, and Aqnitaine, Knight of the moat noble order of the Garter, and Constable of the
Tower. He died the V. of August, M.CCCCXLVII. Also, to the memory of his two wives, viz. : Anne,
daughter of Edmund Earl of Stafibrd, by whom he had issue Henrv Holland, the late Duke of Exeter of
tiiat surname, who married Anne, slater of King Edward the Fourth, and died without issue ; and Anne»
daughter of John Montacnte, Earl of Sollabuiy, by whom he had iuue one daughter, mother to Kalph.
Kcvil, third Earl of Westmoreland/' Below is engraved —
" These remains, having been careftilly removed fh>m the original place of interment, were deposited
in this chapel, as were those of the other persona whose monuments and gravestones were transferred
to it from the Collegiate Church aforesaid."
In some parts along the mouldinga are well-designed groups of sporting subjects — '* Reynard** and
the goose, monkeys in chains, and otncr quaint devices. The shields of onus and create are coloured
and gilt. The effigies represent the Dnke^ one of his wives, and ids sister.
The old wood palpit from St. Katharine's is also preserved, and is a curious example
of the elaborate carved work of the sixteenth and seventeenth centuries : in the panels
are two views of old St. Katharine's. Some of the carved seats, umilar to those in
Henry the Seventh's Chapel in Westminster Abbey, have also been saved; as have
likewise some of the covbels formed by crowned angels, bearing shields. These, with
additions, have been arranged round the present church, with the arms and dates of
the rfflgns of the English Queens fi:om Matilda's time. The Organ, of about the
reign of George II., has also been preserved ; and among the old monuments is one
with this inscription on a ^old plate within a frame :
((
Here dead in p«rt whose best part ne'er dyeth,
A benellActor, William Cuttinge, lyeth ;
Not deade if good deedes could keepe roan alive,
Nor all deode, since ^ood deedes doc men revive.
Gonvile and Kaiea his ^ood deeds men record.
And will, no doubte, his praise for them afford t
Saincte Katrins eke neer London can it tell :
Goldsmythea and Marchont Taylers know it well.
Two Country'a towns his civil bounty bleete.
East Dareham and Nortonfitzworren West :
More did he then this table can unfold,
The worlde his fUme this earth his earth doth hold.
« He deceased ye 4-daIe of March, 1689.*'
0HUECEE8 AND CEAFEL8. 167
Acoording to an official Rqx>rt issued in 1866, the income of the Hospital now
exceeds 7000^. a year ; and if the system of letting the estates on leases for lives with
fines for renewal were abandoned, the income wonld probably be nearly 11,000/., to he
increased to nearly 15,000/. when the Tower-hill leases fall in in the year 1900. The
site of the Hospital has now become a dock, and when the new hospital was aboat to
be erected in the Regent's Park, unfortunately, the removal was made in such a
manner as to involve much expense that might have been avoided. To the inquiry,
" What is dono with this 70002. a year ?" an answer is given in this Report. The
Master receives nearly 15002. a year, increased to 20002. by the rent of Ms official
house, whieby as he is non-resident, he lets. His house and gardens occupy two acres,
and it is considered to b^ for its size, one of the most desirable residences in London.
He attends the meetings of the Chapter, which are held about three times in a year ;
but is seldom, if ever, at the chapel ; he occanonally visits the schools ; hut these
are considered to be sufficiently superintended by the Brothers and Sisters in residence.
He was appointed by Queen Adelaide, whose vice-chamberlain he was. Each of the
three Brothers receives above 3602. a year, and has also a suffidently convenient residence*
though much less costly than the Master's. Each Brother is in residence four months
in the year. One of them has been presented by the Hospital to the living of Eings-
thorpe, near Northampton, with a net income of 7002. a year and a house. The
junior Brother became British vice-consular chaplain at Dieppe in 1863, and has rince
let his official residence, which is considered to be worth 1002. a year ; but he occupies
rooms in it during his term of residence. Each of the three Sisters receives about
2402. a year, besides having a residence provided. The senior Sister has always been
non-resident, and lets her house. The junior has done the like until recently, her
duties as preceptress to the Royal Princesses requii'ing her constant attendance at
Court ; bat these having ceased, she has now virtually, if not actually, entered upon
i^dence. There are various officers and attendants provided for the establishment.
There remiun fbnds sufficient to pay 102. each to 20 Bedesmen and 20 Bedeswomen
(decayed tradespeople and worn-out governesses and servants), and to maintain a school
in which 33 boys and 18 girls, the children of derksi, tradespeople, artificers, and
Bervants are freely educated and clothed, and then apprenticed or presented with outfits
for entering domestic service.
^ It is suggested in the Report that the large and increasing resources of this institu-
tion should by competent authority be made productive of more extended benefit than
. they are at present. Thus, a scheme has been propounded, which proposes the restora-
tion of the Hospital to the east of London ; and the establishment there of a collegiate
church, with the Master and Brothers for dean and canons, each of them, by virtue of
his office, holding a benefice^ with cure of souls, in that quarter; the three Sisters, with
stipends of not less than 2502. a year each, to reside within the limits of these parishes
or places^ and superintend and direct the work of the bedeswomen, who should also
reside within the same limits, and perform the duties of parochial mission women
aud nurses ; the bedesmen, also resident in the limits, to perform the duties of Scripture
i^ders^ or lay assistants. The four benefices might either be acquired by exchange,
or newly constituted by the Crown. The scheme contemplates aLso that a portion of
the income of the foundation be devoted to educational or eleemosynary purposes in
the east of London. The 'scheme was proposed by, or on behalf of, a Committee of the
local clergy, comprising seven incumb^ts in the immediate neighbourhood of the site
of the ancient HoBpit4d, which forty years since was required and taken for the construc-
tiou of St Katharine's Docks.
St. James's, Aldgate, Mitre-square, was built on the nte of the wealthy Priory of
the Holy Trinity, in tasteless style, 1622. Here is service on great festivals and on the
^•st night of the year. And here, every Whit-Tuesdny evening is preached the
** hornet Sermon," on a topic allied to flowers. The church is decked with flowers,
And the congregation carry nosegays, and a bouquet is placed in the pulpit. On Whit-
Tuesday evening, 1866, the Sermon was preached by the Rev. W. M. Whittemore,
tiie Rector. His text was Genesis i. 11, " Let the earth bring forth grass."
jlJ^^ foUoiring ii an oatline of the disoonrse :—Pleasantne88 of a walk in the fields, oonversinff with
war Crienda, resUng flrom the care and toil of a boiy City life, eojoying the sights and sounds of natore^
168 CUBI08ITIE8 OF LONDON.
and strivinff to nther ipiritaal lesaons from the olioects aroand ob. A dngle blade of grass, how nraeb
it may teach OS T How full of testimony to the goodness of the Creator, who has covered the eartli
with this enamelled carpet of soft, flragnnt verdore, to refresh and gladden our hearts. How fall, also*
of solemn teachings of onr fVail mortalitv. All flesh is grass. This was shown to be true literally, as
well as figuratively. Then the preacher Drought out several lessons, which he bade his youthfhl hearers
to remember. 1. The viJue of little things. A blade of grass is fhll of creative skill ; the combining
of many little blades covers the hills and valleys of the world. 2. The tmion of firmness with gentleness
of character. The grass bends easily, yet is coated with flint, and its root is remarkably tenadoua. 3.
Discrimination necessary in striving to be useful. Some one sowed grass^eed, as he thought, but it
grew up chiefly chickweed and groundseL 4 Unity may consist with great diversity. There are 500O
species of grasses, yet thev have many features of aspect, structure, and growth in common, so that no
class of plants is so easily identified.
St. Jaheb's, Clerkenwell, on the north side of Clerkenwell-green, has replaced
the church of a Benedictine monastery, founded ahout 1100; it served the nuns and
inhabitants until the Dissolution of the convent, when it was made parochial, and
dedicated to St. James the Less instead of the Virgin Mary. In the Sutherland View
of 1548, we see it far in the fields. In 1623, the steeple and tower both fell, and
destroyed part of the church; both were rebuilt. In 1788, the whole was taken
down, rebuilt by Carr, and consecrated in 1792. In the vaults are preserved some
ooffins from the old church, and among them that of Bisbop Burnet, who died
1714^15 in St. John's-square, dose by, though the fanatic rabble threw dirt and stones
at his funeral procession. His handsome mural monument was removed to the present
church, which has a peal of eight musical bells.
St. James's, Garlick Hithe,on the east sideof Garlick-hill, Upper Thames-street, is
named from its being near the chief garlick market of the City. It was rebuilt in
1326 : among the persons interred here was Kichard Lyons, a wine-merchant and
lapidary, beheaded in Cheapside by Wat Tyler in the reign of Richard II. Stow
describes his " picture on his gravestone very fair and lai^e, with his hair rounded by
his ears, and curled ; a little beard forked ; a gown girt to him down to his feet, of
branch^ damask, wrought with the likeness of flowers : a large purse on his right side
hanging in a belt from his left shoulder ; a plain hood about his neck, covering his
shoulders, and hanging back behind him." The following dtizeus who had served
Mayor were also buried here : John of Oxenford, Mayor in 1341 ; Sir John Wrotcb, or
Wroth, 1360; William Venor, 1389; William More, 1385; Robert Chichell, 1421 ;
James Spencer, 1527. The old church was destroyed in the Great Fire : it was
rebuilt by Wren, 1676-83, with a tower and lantern, 98 feet high, and a projecting
clock-dial, with a carved and gilt fig^e of St. James : a large organ, built by Bernard
Schmidt, in 1697 ; and a clever altar-picture of the Ascension, by A. Geddes. In this
church Steele heard the Common-Prayer service read so distinctly, so emphatically, and
so fervently, that it was next to an impossibility to be inattentive. Steele proposed that
this excellent reader (Mr. Philip Stubbs, aflerwards Archdeacon of St. Alban*s),
upon the next and every annual assembly of the clergy of Sion College, and all other
convocations, should read before them. — Spectator, No. 147, Augtut 18, 1711.
Here is a curious story, b}' Newcourt, of Arthur Bulkley, D.D., Rector of St. James's
in 1531, who was promoted to the Bishopric of Bangor in 1541. " This man sold away
five fair bells out of the steeple of his cathedral, and it is certainly reported, that going
to the sea-side to see them shipped o% he had not set three steps on his way home-
ward before he was stricken with blindness, so that he never saw afterwards."
St. James the Less, Garden-street, Westminster, was built in 1861, at the expense
of' Miss Monk, in memory of her father, the late Bishop Monk, of Gloucester, a
Canon of Westminster; G. £. Street, architect; style, Byzantine Gothic; cost about
8500Z. The church is situated in the poor district of St. Mary, Tothill-ficlds. It
consists of a Nave and Chancel, with north and south aisles to both. It has a detached
steeple, forming ante-porch, with porch connecting it with the north aisle. The height
of the tower and slated spire is 134 feet. The materials used are mainly red and
black bricks, stone, and marble. The apse has windows of three lights, with a rose-
window in the head, filled with stained glass, representing types and antitj'pes of
Christ. Between these descend the gproimng-ribs, to rest upon banded shafts of
polished marble. The reredos below the line of lights is of white stone, inlaid (with
a black composition) with figures of holy women, commencing on the left with Mary
CHURCHES AND CHAPELS. 169
the mother of James, then Mary Magdalen, St. Elizabetli, and the Virgin Mary ; then,
on the other nde of the reredos proper, come the wife of Manoab, Hannah, Rath, and
Sarah. Bands of red and yellow tiles are inserted between these figures, which are
represented in niches, dividing them into twos. Immediately over tlie altar is a cross
of vari-oolonred Irish marbles, set with stnds of Derbyshire spar. Within the apso
come the transept aisles ; in that on the left is the Organ. Two drop arches, on
hroad shafts of polished granite, with carved caps, and resting on tall plinths (the
height of the choir seats), divide these Transept lusles from the Choir. Each Transept
aisle is, in itself, divided by a shaft of Bath stone in its centre, whence spring arches
to the side piers of the Choir* The two shafts which are on each side of the Nave are
of polished red granite^ with bands of Bath stone midway of their heights ; the caps
are carved, illostrative of the Parables and Miracles. Over the Chancel arch is a fresco
painted by O. F. Watts, representing a sitting figpire of Our Lord in the centre,
with groups of angels on each side, and the four Evangelists below, on a gold ground.
The pulpit is of stone and marble^ and is very richly sculptured : it contains figures of
the four Doctors of the Western Church and the four Evangelbts, and on the panels,
which are divided from each other by shafts of green marble, are illustrations of
preaching : — 1. St. John the Baptist preaching ; 2. Dispute with the Doctors ;
3. The Sermon on the Mount; 4. St. Augustine of Canterbury preaching. The
Chancel is groined in brick, with stone ri^ The screens and gates round the
Chancel are of wrought iron and ornamental brasswork. The pavement of the body
of the church is formed of Maw's tiles, and that of the Chancel has marble inserted.
The steps leading to the Chancel and altai* are of black Isle of Man limestone.
The roof has been painted by Clayton and Bell, with the Tree of Jesse and the
Genealogy of our Ixnrd, typical busts of the personages being introduced in medal-
lions along the sides of the span in a line on either hand. The stained glass through-
out is also by Clayton and Bell.
t
St. JjLifBS'g, Piccadilly, or St. James's, Westminster, was built by Wren, at the
cost of Hecry Jermyn, Earl of St. Alban's, whose arms are placed above the south
door; consecrated Sunday, July 13, 1684; it was originally a chapel of ease, and con-
stituted a parish church in 1685. It has a tower and spire, 160 feet high ; the latter
was not the work of Wren. It was built a few years after the church, and was from a
design supplied by one Mr. Wilcox, a carpenter in the parish, which, strange to
say, waa made choice of by the Vestry in preference to a design for the same furnished
by Wren himself, the cost of the erection of which was estimated to exceed the other
by only lOOZ. It was covered with ciement in 1850, when the interior of the church
was repaired throughout. The clock was the gifl of Mr. H. Massey, and the original
dial was gilded and painted by Mr. Highmore, H.M. Serjeant-Painter : its diameter is
10 feet. The interior. Wren's masterpiece, is in its plan Basilical, Nave and aisles
being formed by two ranges of six piers and columns, in two stories. The piers,
which are of the Doric order, panelled, carry the galleries; the fronts of the latter
of oak, with carved enrichments, formuig the entablature of the order, with a low
attic above, to complete the breastwork. The upper order is the Corinthian ; columns
rise from the breastwork of the galleries, and the highly -enriched entablature of these,
stretching across from each column to the side walls, serves as imposts to a series of
transverse arches from column to column, forming the covering of the aisles ; whilst
from the abacuses also springs the great semiciicular vault that covers the Nave ; the
whole roof being divided into sunk panels, ornamented with festoons of drapery and
flowers in relief, " producing," as Mr. J. Qwilt observes, " by its unity, richness, and
faannonioQS proportions, a result truly enchanting." These ceilings and their enrich-
ments, as now seen, were put up in 1837, when the decayed state of the timbers had
rendered an entire new roof to the church necessary. The work was strictly a restora-
tion. Wren, in a letter printed by Elmes, says : — ** I can hardly think it practicable
to make a single room so capacious, with pews and galleries, as to hold 2000 persons,
and all to hear the service and see the preacher. I endeavoured to efiect this in build-
ing the parish church of St. James's, Westmmster, which, I presume, is the most
capadoosy with these qualifications, that hath yet been built."
170 CURIOSITIES OF LONDON.
The noble Organ was bnilt fbr James II., and intended for his Roman Catbolie
Oratory at Whitehall, but g^ven to tins parish by Qneen Maxy in 1691.
It is in two oaken caiei. standing one before the other, the organist's place being between them ; his
fitoe to the great organ, ana his back to the smaller one, to the latter of which the action passes beEMath
his feet ana seat. The ereat case is in the florid style of the period of its original construction (Lonis
XIV.). The carrhig of Fames, angels, cherubs' hoadS| ibc. with which it is adorned, strikingly mark^
by their great beauty, the master-hand of Gibbons. This ikvourite old instrument, originally made by
the celebrated Benatua Harris, anno 1678, was entirely rebuilt by the late Mr. Bishop, in 1862, on a
much more comprdiensiTe scale, but retaining the old pipes— for these, the mellowing hand of time
had rendered of more than ordinary value— when also the old case was restored, with the orig^ial
decoration, and the detadied flront choir added.
In 1738, the Prince of Wales gave crimson velvet and gold hangings, valued at
700^., for the holy table and palpit. The end above the altar-ecreen is nearly all
occupied by a Venetian window, in 1846 filled with stained and painted glass.
The window is illustrative by six principal picturee— one to a compartment — of the narrative of onr
Blessed Lord's Sacrifioe for the Redemption of Mankind. In the lower central division is displayed the
Crudflxion, with the praying in the Garden of Gethsemane, on the left; and the Bearing of the Croos
on the right. The upper central compartment is the ^Lscension, with the Entombment on the left, and
the Resurrection on the right. Verv wide mosaic borders surround each of these pictures, in which, aa
well as in the other parts of the filline in, are numerous minute representations of other scriptural
sul](}ects ; with details of immense variety, conslBting of religious emblems, symbols, monograms, &c.
&c. For this glass Wailes, of Newcastle, received KXKM.
It is intended also to fill in with stained and painted glass the whole of the ten gaUery windowiu
designed to form, when completed, a series of paintiD^, illustrative of the history of our Bleswd
Saviour's life and ministrv, commenchig with the^' Nativity," in the easternmost window on the sonUi
side— the succeeding winaows to carry on the subject, progressively, as follows : — No. 2. The Adoration of
the Magi; 8. Baptism of Christ; 4. Christ and the Woman of Samaria; 6. Christ with Peter on the
Sea. And returning eastward on the north side with— 6. The Transfiguration ; 7. Christ with Martha
and Mary; 8. Christ Blessing Little Children; 9. The Raising of Lazarus; 10. Entry into Jerusalem.
Thus connecting the narrative wiUi the Passion, as represoited in the great altar window. Noe. 2 and
4 have been executed (also by Mr. Wailes) at a cost of 1252. each.
Evelyn, in his Diary, thus describes the altar and east end of the church : —
. Dm. 16, 1684. — I went to see the new church at St. James's, elegantly built. The altar was especially
adorned, the white marble inclosure curiously and richly carved, the flowers and garlands about the
walls by Mr. Gibbons, in wood : & pelican, with Uer young at her breast, just over the altar in the carv'd
compartment and border invironing the purple velvet fringed with (black) I. H. 8. richly embroidered,
and most noble plate, were given dv Sir R. Geere, to the value (as was said) of 2001. There was no
altar anywhere in England, nor has there been any abroad, more handsomely adorned."
The wood is lime, with cedar for the reredos; the marble scrolls have been replaced
by bronze. In addition, a noble festoon ending in two pendants, which extends nearly
the whole length of the screen, displays all the varied representations of fruit and
flowers, in the highest relief. This elaborate and delicate work having become much
injured by the casuaUies of 160 years, was in 1846 thoroughly repaired by two Italian
artists — a work of protracted labour; several thousand bits of carving, more or less
minute, requiring to be added, in order to restore the groupings to their pristine state.
Facing the western entrance is the white marble font, exquisitely sculptured by-
Gibbons : it is nearly five feet high, and the bowl is about six feet in circumference.
The shaft represents the tree of life, with the serpent twining round it, and offering^
the forbidden fruit to Eve, who^ with Adam, stands beneath : these figures are 18
inches high. On the bowl are bas-reliefs of the Baptism of the Saviour in the Jordan ;
the Baptizing of the Treasurer of Candace by St. Philip the Deacon ; and the Ark of
Noah, with the dove bearing the olive-branch. The cover of this font (shown in
Vertue's engraving), held by a flying angel and a group of cherubim, was stolen about
the beginning of the present century, and subsequently hung up as a sign at a spirit-
shop in tlie neighbourhood.— (Brayley's Londiniana, voL ii. p. 282.)
In the church are interred Charles Cotton, the companion of Walton in the Cont"
plete Angler; Dr. Sydenham, with a marble tablet erected by the College of Fhysicians,
in 1810 ; Hayman, the portrait-painter ; the two Vanderveldes, the marine painters ;
and Michael Dahl, the Swedish portrait-painter ; Dr. Arbuthnot, the friend of Pope,
Swift, Gay, and Prior ; Benjamin Stillingfleet, the naturalist, so touchingly deplored
by Pennant, in the preface to his British Zoology ; Dr. Akenside, the poet ; James
Dodsley, the bookseller, with a tablet ; G. H. Harlow, who painted " The Trial of
Queen Katherine;" also Sir John Malcolm. Here lies Thomas d'Urfey, dramatist
and song- writer, to whom there is a tablet on the outer south fiioe of the church-tower,
inscribed " Tom d'Urfey, dyed February 26, 1723." In the vestry are the portraits of
the St. James's rectors, that of Dr. Birch alone missing: the first rector. Dr. Tenison;
CHUBCHE8 AND CHAPELS, 171
the third, Br. Wake ; and the seventh. Dr. Seeker; hecame Archlushops of Canterbury..
{See Wakott's Handbook of 8L Janne^s,)
NoUekeDS, the sculptor, when a lad, had an idle propennty for bell-tolbng, and
whenever his master missed him» and tiie dead-bell of St. James's Church was tolUng,
he knew perfectly well what ** Joey ** was at.
The church exterior and interior were in 1857 greatly improved ; and an ornamental
arched entrance to the churchyard, and a large Vestry-ball erected.
St. James's, Shoreditch, Curtain-road, of Early English arcbitectnre, erected 1838»
** stands on a site occupied by a theatre in Sbakspeare's time. He lived dose by, in a
place called Gillum's Field. At this theatre a curtain was for the first time used;
hence the name of the road. The theatre was afterwards removed to South Lambeth.
Tradition says that Sbakspeare himself acted at the theatre and that his Hamlet was
first performed there.'' — Mackeson's Churches,
St. Jauib's, Spa-road, Bermondsey, contains a large altar-pictiu^, painted for 5002.,
by John Wood, upon conditions detailed at p. 49. The subject is the Ascension of our
Saviour ; the fignres are con^derably above the naturalsize : on a canvas of 275 square
feet (25 feet by 11), in the upper part, a full-length figure of the Saviour occupies
nearly one-half of the picture ; a nimbus around the head illumining the upper sky ; the
eleven disciples are in various positions, standing, kneeling, prostrated, with uplifted
hands and fhoesi, and bodies bent with reverential awe and devotion; and their personal
identity, costume, and colouring, are very successfiiL
St. Josq^s, formerly St. AuousTiir's, at Hackney, was taken down in 1798, except
the tower, of the sixteenth century, which still remains, with a dock and a peal of
eght bells ; the body of the chuix^ was rebuilt northward of the andent edifice ;
eastward is the cbapd of the Bowe family, built in 1614, and preserved as a
mansQieum. The churchyard has thoroughfare paths, lined with lofty trees, but
the funereal yew is not among them. The old church, before its demolition, was ex-
tremely ridi in monuments and brasses, some of which were removed to the porches
and vestibules of the new church.
St. JoHys, Bethnal Green, designed by Sir John Soane in 1828, was the first church
consecrated by Bishop Blomfidd in the diocese of London. (See Oentleman*s Maga-
zine, Feb. 1831.)
St. Johs's, Clerkenwell, a modem church, in St. John's-square, has an andent
crypt (part of the Priory of St. John of Jerusalem), in which the detection of the
CodL-lane Ghost hoax was consummated.
" While drswinfr In the crypt of St. John's, Clerkenwell, In a narrow cloister on the north tide (ther»
being at that time coffins, and fragments of shrouds, and human remains lying about in disorder), the
f€xton'8 boy pointed to one of the coffins, and said the woman in it was * Bcratchhig Fanny.' This
reminding me of the business of the Cock<lane Ghost, I removed the lid of the coffin, wjiich was loose,
aad saw the body of a woman, which hod become adipocere; the ftce perfect, handsome oval, with
aquiline nose. [WiU not arsenic produce adipocere P] (She was said to have been poisoned, although
the charge Is understood to have been disproved. I inquired of one of the churchwardens of the timo
{Mr. Bin. I believe), and he said the coffin had always been understood to contain the body of the
woman wnoae spirit was said to have haunted the house in Cock-lane."— ComimcHiea/e<{ bjf John Wjfke^
ham Archer, 1861.
St. Johv t&b Etakqelist, Charlotte-street, Fitzroy-square, designed by Hugh
Smith, in the Norman or Romanesque style, was opened in 1846, its west front having
two towers, and a spire 120 feet high, and a large wheel-window beneath the inter-
vening gable. The second spire has not been built.
St. John the Eyanoblist, Horselydown, one of the Fifty New Churches (10*
Anne), was finished in 1732 : it has a tower, with an ill-proportioned Scamozzian Ionic
column, seen to the eastward from the London and Greenwich Railway.
St. JoHjr THE Eyavoelist, Smith-square, Westminster, was the second built of the
Fifty New Churches (10 Anne), finished in 1728, after the designs of Archer, pupil of
Vsnbmgh; before which it began to settle, and a tower and lantern-turret were
added at each corner to strengthen the main building ; *' and these would have been.
172 CURIOSITIES OF LONDON,
beautiful accompaniments to the central tower and spire intended by the architect,'*
ySlmes.) These towers reminded Lord Chesterfield of an elephant thrown on its
back, with its four feet erect in the air; and Charles Mathews, of a dining-table up-
side-down, with its four legs and castors. Meanwhile, justice has not been done to the
originality and powers of the architect : the whole composition is impressive, and its
boldness loses nothing by the graceful playfulness of the outline; it has some in-
accuracies of detail, but is, altogether, a very striking production of the Vanbrugb
schooL (Donaldson.) It has semicircular apses east and west, and imposing Doric
porticoes north and south. The interior of the church (said to have been the first in
London lit with gas) is without columns, and is highly embellished : the east window-
is filled with ancient painted glass brought from Normandy ; and above the altar-table
is a copy of the celebrated picture of Christ bearing his Cross, by Ribalta, in the
Chapel of St. Mar}' Magdalen College, Oxford. The elegant marble font, designed by
C. Barry, jun., sculptured by J. Thomas, was placed here in 1847. The Organ,
erected by a German builder, in 1727, and repaired by Hill, in 1840, is handsome and
powerful. Churchill, the satirbt, born in the parish, succeeded his father in 1758, in
the curacy and lectureship of this church : he soon disgraced the holy office, and substi-
tuted for the clerical costume a blue coat, gold-laced waistcoat and hat, and large
ruffles ; remonstrances ensued, and he resign^.
St. John's baiiol-ground contains **the ashes of an Indian chief, who died of small-pox, in 1731, and
was bnriod in the presence of tlie Emperor Tom% after the custom of the Karakee Creeks, sewn up in
two blankets, between two deal boards, with his clothes, some silver ooins, and a few glass beads." —
Walcott's WeHminster, p. 314.
St. Johx the Eyanoslist, Waterloo-road, was built in 1822-24, from the design
of F. Bedford : it has a Grecian-Doric hexastyle portico, and lofty steeple, with an
excellent peal of eight bells ; tenor, 1900 lbs. weight. The font is of white marble, and
was brought from Italy. In a vault here is interred B. W. EUiston, the comedian.
The site of St. John's was a swamp and horse-pond ; the district commences at the
middle of Westminster Bridge, whence an imaginary boundary-line passes through the
middle of the River Thames and Waterloo Bridge.
St. John op Jebusalem, South Hackney, Middlesex ; a large and beautiful church
in the best Pointed style, tliirteenth and fourteenth centuries, by £. C. HakewiU ;
consecrated July 20, 1848. The plan is cruciform, with a tower and spire of
equal height, together rising 187 feet ; the latter has graceful lights and broaches, and
the four Evangelists beneath canopies at the four angles ; the Nave has side aisles
with flying buttresses to the clerestory ; each Transept is lit by a magnificent window,
29 feet high ; and the Choir has an apsis with seven lancet windows : entire external
length, 1D2 feet ; materials, Kentish rag and Speldhurst stone. The principal entrance
is at the west, through a screen of open arches. The roof, of open-work, is of 60 feet
highest pitch, with massive arched and foliated ribs ; and the meeting of the Transepts,
Chancel, and Nave is very effective. The Chancel has a stone roof, and the walls of the
apse are painted and diapered — red with fleur-de-lis, and blue powdered with stars ; the
pulpit and reading-desk are also diapered ; and the scats are of oak, and mostly formed
of stall-ends with finials : the two flrst seats are well-carved ; on one is the crest of the
Rector and the badge of the patron Saint ; and on the other side the dove with the
olive-branch, and the lynx, as an emblem of watchfulness. All the windows are filled
with painted, stained, or richly -diapered glass, by Wailes, Powell, &c. ; and a me-
morial clerestory window, Christ Blessing Little Children, and Raising Jairus*s
Daughter, is beautifully painted by Ward and Nixon. The altar-floor is laid with
Mintoii's tiles ; the font is nicely sculptured ; the Organ is from the old church at
Hackney ; the tower has a fine peal of eight bells.
St. John's, Notting-hill, an Early English cross church, designed by Stevens and
Alexander, and consecrated Jan. 22, 1845, stands upon an elevated portion of Ken-
sington Park, facing Ladbroke Grove, and has a tower 156 feet high, seen to
picturesque advantage.
St. John's, Oxford-square, Paddington, is a debased imitation of New College
GHUECHE8 AND CEAPELS. 173
Chapel in the exterior; architect^ Fowler : it poesesses a good stained glass window of
the Twelve Apostles.
St. Jttde'b, Gray's Inn Road, was the first charch which received aid from the
Bishop of London's Fond ; founded, November, 1862 ; style. Early English ; archi-
tect, Joseph Peacock. The tower, at the south-east angle^ is 100 feet high, ter-
minating with an iron finial. All the chancel windows are of stained glass. The
three lancet windows, the gift of a lady, represent the Birth, Crucifixion, and Resurrec-
tion, of Our Lord. The large rose-window is a thank-ofiering of the congregation : in
the centre circle is the Ascenrion ; and in the tracery around the Annunciation are —
Disputing in the Temple, the Baptism, the Agony, Bearing the Cross, the First
Appearance to Mary, the Journey to Emmaus, and the Pentecost. The reredos is of
Caen stone, and represents the Last Supper carved in relief, the wall on each side being
richly covered with tiles in pattern. The Organ, which is of original* arrangement, is
in the Chancel aisle, under the tower, and is free and open to the choir. *
St. Lawbekce Jbwby, King-street, Cheapside, was commenced by Wren, in 1671,
upon the ate of the old church, destroyed in the Great Fire : it has a tower and
steeple 130 feet high, with, for a vane, a gilt gridiron, the emblem of St. Lawrence;
the east end, in King-street, is so pure as to be almost Grecian. The interior has
some excellent plaster-work, in wreaths and branches; and the organ-case, pulpit, and
doorways are richly-carved oak. In the centre is a large pew for the Lord Mayor and
Common Council, the church being used for Corporation Sermons. Here Tillotson was
Tuesday lecturer ; was married 1663-4 ; and buried in 1694, three years after he was
consecrated Archbishop of Canterbury : his sculptured monument is on the north wall
of the church. The Vestry-room walls are entirely cased with fine dark carved oak ;
and che ceiling has elaborate plaster foliage, and a painting, by TbomhiU, of St. Law-
rence. In the old church, mentioned 1293, was buried Thomas Boleyn, Earl of Wilt-
shire, whose daughter Anna married King Henry YIII., and was the mother of Qaeen
Elizabeth : here lay also the remains of Richard Rich, mercer (d. 1469), from whom de-
scended the Earls of Warwick. There are a fine peal of bells, two good windows by
Clayton and Bell, and an excellent Organ by Schmidt.
St. Leovass's, Esstcheap, destroyed in the Great Fire, and not rebuilt, had a curious
affix. Newconrt oddly says : — ** On Fish-street-hill, in the Ward of Bridge Within,
stood St. Leonard Milk Church, so called after one William Melker, the builder
thereof."
St. Lxoitabd's, Shoreditch (anciently Sorasdich), occupies the site of a church
mentioned in grants early in the thirteenth century. The last church (which had four
gables in a line, and a low square tower) was taken down in 17S6 : and the present
church bnUt by the elder Dance in 1740 : it has a steeple imitated from that of St.
Maiy-le-Bow, Cheapside, and a fine peal of twelve bells. The Organ is by Bridge.
Ho]ywell-«treet» in this parlih, now High-street, Shoreditch, was in the reign of Qaeen Elizabeth
and James I. iababited bj players of distinction, connected with the Curtain Theatre, the DiackfHars
Thaitre, and the Globe on the Bankiide. The puish register (within a period of sixtT years) records
the iotcnneat of the following celebrated characters:— Will Sommers, Henry VIIl/s jester; Richard
Tarlton, the famous clown of Queen Elizabeth's time; James Burbage, and his more celebrated son,
Bichaid Borbage : Gabriel Speuser, the player, who fell in 1608, in a duel with Ben Jonson ; William
Sly and Biehard Cowley, two original performers in Shakspeare's plays ; the Countess of Rutland, the
only child of the fiunous Sir Philip Sidney : Fortnnatus Greene, the unfortunate offkpring of Robert
GneoeL the poet and player. Another original performer in Shakspeare's plays, who lived in Holywell-
ftrect,ln this parish, was Nicholas Williamson aUat Tooley, whose name is recorded in gilt letters on
the north side of the altar as a yearly benefkctor of 61. 10«., still distributed in bread every year to the
poor of the parish, to whom it was bequeathed.— Cunningham's Handbook, p. 885.
In the register is entered, among the " Bnrialles, Thomas Cam, y* 22d inst. of
Jannarye, 1588, Aged 207 years, Holywell-street. Qeorge Garrow, parish derk." [Is
not 2 written for 1 in the number of years ?] At St. Leonard's is annually preached the
endowed Lectnre founded by Mr. Thomas Fairchild, gardener, who carried on his busi-
ness in Selby's Gfardens, extending from the west end of Ivy-lane to the New North-road.
By his will, in 1728, he bequeathed the sum of 25Z., the interest of which he desired
might be ^ven annually to the lecturer of St. Leonard's, for preaching on Whit-
Toesday a sermon on " The Wonderful Works of Qod in the Creation," or ** On the Cer-
174 CUBI08ITIE8 OF LONDON,
tainty of the B^sorrection of the Dead, proved hy certain changes of the Anunal and
Vegetable parte of the Creation." The bequest came into operation in 1730, and has
been continued ever since. The sum bequeathed by Mr. Fairchild was increased by
subscriptions to 100^. South-Sea Annuities, producing ZL per annum, which was trans-
ferred to the President and Council of the Royal Society. To the subscription added
to the bequest. Archdeacon Denne added 291. out of the money he, the first lecturer,
had reo^ved for preaching the sermon. It was the custom for the President and
Fellows of the Boyal Society to hear this sermon preached. Stukel^ records : —
** Whitsunday, June ^ 1750, 1 went with Mr. Folkes, and other Fellows, to Shoreditch,
to hear Dr. Denne preach Fairchild's sermon. On the Beautys of the Vegetable World.
We were entertained by Mr. Whetman, the vinegar-merchant, at his elegit house hy
Moorfields; a pleasant place, encompassed with gardens well stored with all sorts of
curious flowers and shrubs, where we spent the day very agreeably, enjoying all the
pleasures of the country in town, with the addition of philosophical company." —
MS, Journal.
St. Lukb's, Nutford-place, Edgware-road, was erected in 1856, Ewan Christian,
architect, as a thank-offering for the exemption from cholera, where, at the time, fifty
in a thousand was the rate of mortality in some parishes, and only two in a thousand
suffered. The cost was 13,782Z., of which 6000^. was for the site ; the church was
built chiefly for working-men, by whom it is well attended.
St. Litke's Chubch, Chelsea (the Old Church), near the river, consists of a Nave,
Chancel, and side aisles ; the chancel rebuilt early in the sixteenth century ; chapel at
the east end added by Sir Thomas More about 1520; and the tower of brick, built
1667-1674. The interior has been much altered. Its tombs of " divers persons ^f
quality" are very interesting. In the chancel is an andent altar-tomb, without in-
scription, supposed to belong to a Bray, of Eton. Here, on the south wall, is the
black marble tablet, erected by Sir Thomas More, in 1532 (see ante, p. 90), with
the famous biographical epitaph, in Latin, &om More's own pen, and the following to
More and his two wives :—
"Chara Thoxjb Jaoet hio JoiinrA nzorcola Mori,
Qal tamulum Aliclb buno deetino, quique mihi.
Una mihi dedit hoc coi^ancta virentibus annis,
He vocet at paer, ot trina paella patrem.
Altera privignis (qan ffloria rara novercfo est)
Tain pia, qoam qoatis. vix ftzit alia Bois.
Altera sic mecam vixit, aic altera vivit,
Cbarlor Incertom est, qoas sit an ilia fiiit.
O sinnil, O Jonctl poteramos vivere noitroa,
Qoam bene, ri flttam religioqae sinant.
At Bociet tamnloB, Booiet noB, obsecro, ccelum I
Sic mors, non potait qaod dare vita, dabit."
This elegant Latin is consideiM to be not excelled by any epitaph in that or any
other language. In the biographical epitaph, the word " hereticisque" was purposely
omitted when the monument was restored on both occasious : there is a blank space
left. Over the tomb are the crest of Sir Thomas More, namely, a Moor's head ; the
arms of himself and his two wives.
Sir Thomas More is stated to have been baried here, bat this is disputed : most probaUj, he was
boried in the chapel of St. Peter-in-the-Tower ; thoagh Aabrey distinctly states that "after More was
behraded, his tronk was interred in ChelscT CUarch/ beneath the monument already described. Tho
decapitated head of More was long kept in the Tudor mansion of Baynard'B, in Surrey, by More's fkyoarite
dauffnter, Margaret Boper» who once lived here. The skull of Sir Thomas waa finally deposited in the
vaolt of the Kopers, in St. Dnnstan's Church, hi the subttrbs of Canterbury, where it was seen by £.
W. Brayl^, about sixty years ago.— (^Sm Note in Brayley's Survey, vol. v. p. 183.)
The Bev. Mr. Blunt suggests that the ancient dedication of the church was to All Ssints, though
it hSB long been appropriated to St. Luke. The Chancel, with the chantries north and Bouth of it, are
the only portions or ancient work left. The north chantry, called the Manor Chantry, once oontained
the monuments of the Brays, now in verv imperfect condition ; haring been destroyed or removed to
make space for those of the Gervoise famOy. There remains, however, an ancient Drass in the floor.
Of the south, or More Chantry, Mr. Blunt states that the monument of Sir Thomas More was removed
Drom it to the chancel, and the chantry had been occupied by the monuments of the Georges fiunilv, now
aJso removed, displaced, and destroyed. Notwithstanding the current contrary opinion, founded on
Aubrey's assertion, the More monument (says Mr. Blunt) u the original one for which Sir Thomas More
hlTOBeff dictated the epitaph.
Mr. Bumell, the architect of the improvements effected subsequentW to 1657, speaks positively as
to the non-existence of a crypt which coi^eotoie had placed nnder the More chsntiy. The foondation
CHUE0HE8 AND 0HAPBL3. 175
of the wMt end of the church, before it was enlarged In 1666, he fonnd west of Lord Dacre's tomb. On
the north side of the chancel an aombrj, and on the south a piscina, were found, coeyal with the chancel
{early fimrteaith century). The arch between the More Chantry and the chancel is a specimen of
talian workmanship, datod 1628 ; a date confirmed bv the obiects represented in the carved ornaments,
those otoeeta being connected with the Boman Catholic litaaL It is a remarkably early Instance of the
on of Itaiian arcluteetiire in this country.
Here are these inonaments : one with kneeUng figoree, to Thomas Hungerfbrd ; to
the daughter of Sur Theodore Mayeme, wife of Peter de Canmont^ Marquis de Cugnac ;
Jane Dudley, Dncheaa of Northumberland, beheaded for proclaiming Lady Jane Grey,
mother of Queen Elizabeth's ihvourite, Robert Dudley, Earl of Leicester; her daughter
Mary was the mother of Sir Philip Sidney [" her monument at east end of south
chapel is not unlike Chaucer's in Westminster Abbey, but sadly mutilated;" — C^a-
mnffham]; Gregory, Lord Dacre^ and Lady Ann, his wife: the latter founded the
almshouses in Westminster which bear her name ; she was sister to Sackville, Earl of
Dorset, the poet. Li a chapel of the north aisle lie the Laurence family, after whom
** Lawrence-street," Chelsea, was called. In the same aisle is the monument (said by
Walpole to be by Bernini, and cost 500Z.), to Iiady Jane Cheyne, and wife of Charles
Cheyne, Esq., whence Cheyne-row ; she is represented lying on her right side, and
leaTiing on a Bible.
In the south-west comer of the church is a mural monument to Dr. Edward
Chamberlaync, with a punning Latin epitaph : it mentions that some of his books
[MSS.], inclosed in wax, were buried with him ; yet when his tomb fell into decay
not a vestige of them could be found. From a Latin epitaph on his daughter, we
learn that on June 30, 1690, she fought valiantly in men's clothing six hours against
the French, on board a fire-ship under the command of her brother.
In the church are interred, toithout monumenis, the mother of John Fletcher, the
poet ; the mother of George Herbert and Lord Herbert of Cherbury : Dr. Donne
preached her funeral sermon in this church, and Izaak Walton tells us he heard him ;
Thomas Shadwell, the Mac-Flecknoe : his fhneral sermon was preached in this church
by Nicholas Brady, Nahum Tate's associate in the Psalms ; Abel Boyer, author of a
Life of Queen Anne and the French Dictionary which bears his name; Cipriani, the
elegant painter and deagner; Dr. Martyn, translator of Virgil; Henry Mossop, tiie
actor; Dr. Kenrick, the annotator of Shakspeare ; Sir John Fielding, the magistrate;
and Henry Sampson WoodfaU, printer of Jwtiut,
In the churchyard is the mystic monument of the great naturalist and virtuoso. Sir
Hans Sloane, MJ)., who attended Queen Anne in her last illness, and was the first
medieal man created a baronet ; his collections became the nucleus of the British
Museum. Here^ too, is a pyramidal monument erected by the Linnean and Horticul-
toial Societies to Philip Miller, author of the Ocurdenert^ DicHona/ry ; he was nearly
fifty years gardener to the Apothecaries' Company's Garden at Chelsea.
The Begister, under Feb. 13, 1577-8, records the baptism of " Charles, a boy by
estimaoon 10 or 12 yers olde, brought by Sir Walter Rawhs from Guiane." John
Larke, presented to the rectory of Chelsea, in 1530, by Sir Thomas More, vras exe-
cuted at T^bum, in 1544» for following tiie example of his patron, in deuying the
King's supremacy.
St. Lr SB's New Chttboh, Chelsea, was founded in 1820 ; Savage, architect, one of
the restorers of the Temple Church ; style, Gothic, 14th and 15th centuries. The build-
ing is of brick, cased with Bath stone. It has a pinnacled tower, 142 feet high, with
arcaded entrance porch. The north and south fronts have bold buttresses ; and the
east front is magnificent. The vaulting, 60 feet in height, is entirely of stone ; and
under the clerestory windows is a triforium ; the Nave is divided from the aisles by an
arcade and clustered pillars. The altar-screen is ably sculptured, and in the centre is
a picture of the Ascension, stated to be by Northcote. The interior length of the
church is 130 feet. The Organ, built by Nicholls, contains 33 stops and 1876 pipes,
and is one of the most poweriul instruments in the metropolis.
In the churchyard lie Blanchard and Egerton, the actors, side by side. Captain
M'Lood, who wrote the Voyage of the Aleeste, 1817 ; and Alexander Stephens, who
wrote a lafeofJoltn Some Toohe, and edited the Annual Biography and Obituary.
In a cemetery in the King's-road, given to St. Luke's parish in 1733, by Sir Hans
176 CURIOSITIES OF LONDON,
Sloane, is buried Andrew Millar, the bookseller, who lived in the Strand, "at
Buchanan's Head" (Mtfhis imprint to Thornton' 8 Seasons) ; his grave is marked by an
obelisk in the centre of the ground.
St. Luke's, near the centre of Old- street-road, is one of the fifty Queen Anne
churches, and was consecrated on St. Luke's day, Oct. 16, 1733. It is built of stone,
and has an obelisk spire, a masterpiece of absurdity. The pariah was taken out of St.
Giles's, Ci-ipplegate.
St. MAQiors the Maxtyb, London Bridge, was burnt in the Great Fire, and
rebuilt by Wren, 1676. It has a tower, octagon lantern, cupola, and spire, added
in 1705, which are very picturesque. The footway under the tower, on the east adc,
was made in 1760, through the recesses and groined arches originally formed in the
mfun building by Wren, as if he had seen its necessity whenever the street leading to
Old London Bridge required widening.
Thli Improremcnt was made after the destmction of the church roof hj fire, April 18, 1780, which
began in an oilman's premlaeii in Thames-street, acyoining the church, and consumed seven houses and
all the warehouses on Fresh Wharf. This conflagration was occasioned by the neglect of a servant,
who left some inflammable substances boiling while ho went to see Earl Ferrers return from his trial and
condemnation for murder : before the man could get back, the shop was in flames.
Miles Coverdale was for a short time rector of St. Magnus : he was buried in St.
Bartholomew's by the Exchange, which being taken down in 1840, Coverdale's remains
were removed, and interred in St. Magnus', where a monument to his memory was
erected in 1837.
The Inscription upon Coverdale's tomb states :— " On the 4th of October, 1635, the first complete
English version of tne Bible was published under his direction." The third centenary of tliis event
was celebrated by the clergy througnout the churches of England, October 4, 1836 j and several medals
were struck upon the occasion.
The handsomely carved and gilt projecting dial, affixed to St. MagnuR* tower, was tho
gift of Sir Charles Duncomb, in 1709, and cost 485/. 6«. 4d. : Sir Charles, it is related,
when a poor boy, had once to wait upon Ijondon Bridge a considerable time for his master,
whom he missed through not knowing the hour ; he then vowed that if ever he became
successful in the world, he would give to St. Magnns* a public clock, that passengers
might see the time ; and this dial proves the fulfilment of his vow. It was originally
ornamented with several richly gilded figures : upon a smiidl metal shield inside the dock
are engraven the donor's arms, with this inscription : " The gift of Sir Charles Duncomb.
Knight, Lord Maior, and Alderman of this ward. Langley Bradley fecit. 1709.*'
Sir Charles also presented the large Organ in St. Magnus' Church : it was built by
Jordan, in 1712, as announced in the Spectator :
** Whereas, Mr. Abraham Jordan, soiior and Junior, have with thdr own hands, joynery excepted*
made and erected a very large Organ in St. Magnus' Church, at the foot of London Bridge, consistinir of
four sets of keys, one of wiiich is adapted to the art of emitting sounds by swelling the notes, whiidi
never was in any Organ before ; this instrument will be publicly opened on Sunday next, the performance
by Mr. John Itobinson. The abovesaid Abraham Jordan gives notice to all masters ana performers*
that he will attend every day next week at the said church, to accommodate all those gentlemen who
shall have a curiosity to hear it."— Spectator, Feb. 8, 1712.
This instrument still exists, but has been much altered and modernized by Parsons ;
and at present, only three of the original four sets of keys remain. — A Short Accouni
of Organs, &&, 1847.
The tower has a peal of ten bells. A bronzed or copper medalet, date 1676, bears
on its obverse a view of old St. Magnus' Church. Here was buried Hervey Yevele, or
Zenely, described by Stow as Free-Mason to Edward IIL, Richard II., and Henry IV. :
he assisted to erect the tomb of Richard II. in Westminster Abbey, between 1395 and
1397* and prepared plans for raimng the walls of Westminster Hall.
St. Maxoabet's, Lothbury, destroyed in the Great Fire, and rebuilt by Wren in
1690, has a steeple 140 feet high; two carved and painted figures of Moses and
Aaron, brought from St. Chrbtopher-le-Stocks, when that church was taken down ;
and a marble font attributed to Qibbons» resembling that in St. James's Church, Pic-
cadilly. The Organ is by England.
St. Maboabet Patten's, Fenchurch-street, destroyed in the Great Fire, and re*
boilt by Wren in 1687, contains a fine altar-picture— Angels ministering to Christ in
CHUBCHE8 AND CHAPELS, 177
the Garden — ascribed to Carlo Maratti. About the altar-piece are some exquisitely
carved flowers. Against the south wall is a large monument, by Rysbrack, to Sir F.
Delme, Lord Mayor in 1723. The chorcb was named from the patten-makers, who
formerly mostly lived in the neighbourhood.
St. MABaABET's parish church, Westminster, is placed a short distance from the
north door of Westminster Abbey : it was originally built about 1064, by Edward the
Confessor, for the people who had thickly settled around the Abbey, and were greatly
increased by those who sought here the privilege of Sanctuary. This Norman edifice
was destroyed, and the church rebuilt in the reign of Edward 1., of which period there
exist a few remains. It was considerably altered in the time of Edward IV., when,
probably, a flight of steps led up to the chmrch-door, the surrounding level having
been raised about nine feet above the original surface : a stone cross and a pulpit
formerly stood here, as at St. Paul's. Soon after the ancient Chapel of St. Stephen
had been ^ven up for the sittings of the House of Commons, it is supposed the mem-
bers attended Divine Service in St. Margaret's, as the Lords went to the Abbey
Church. On Sept. 26, 1642, the Covenant was read from St. Margaret's pulpit, and
taken by both Houses of Parliament, the Assembly of Divines, and the Soots Commis-
sioners. Here also were preached the lengthy Fast-day Sermons; and Hugh
Peters, '* the pulpit buffoon," persuaded the P&rliament to bring Charles " to condign,
speedy, and capital punishment," while the churchyard was g^iiuirded by soldiers with
pikes and muskets. St. Margaret's did not escape plunder by the Puritans ; but in
1660, ** the State's Arms," richly carved and g^ilt, were set up in the church, and they
are still preserved in the vestry. In 1641, a gallery was built over the north aisles;
and in 1681, another over the south aisles, *' exduflively for persons of quality," the
latter erected at the expense of Sir John Cutler, the miser satirized by Pope. Doctors
Burnet and Sprat, old rivals, once preached here before Parliament in one morning ;
and on Palm Sunday, 1713, Dr. Sacheverell preached here first after the term of his
suspension : 40,000 copies of this sermon were sold. In 1735, St. Margaret's was
repaired at the expense of Parliament, when the tower was faced with Portland stone
and raised 20 feet, being now 85 feet high : it has a fine peal of ten bells, the tenor
wdghing 26 cwt. In 1753 was placed over the altar-table a relievo of our Lord's
Supper at Emmaus, sculptured in limewood, by Aiken of Soho, firom Titian's celebrated
picture in the Louvre. In 1758, the east end was rebuilt and made apsidal ; and the
great east window removed, and replaced by the present beautiful cinque-cento window,
aid to have occupied five yean executing, at Qouda in Holland, intended as a present
from the magistrates of Dort to Henry VII.
This celebrated fflsM painting rewesents theCracifixion, with angels recemng the blood-drops from
the Saviour's wounds ; an angel waits the soul of the good thief to paradise, and a dragon (the devil)
bears the soul of the wicked tiiief to eternal punishment. The six upper compartments are filled with
as manT angels, bearing the croes, the sponge, tiie crown of thorns, the hammer, the rods, and nails.
In the lower compartment (right) is Arthur Prince of Wales, eldest son of Henry VII., and above him
St. OeoTge and wb red and white roae : and to the left is Catherine of Arragon, Arthur's bride, with
above bar the figure of St. Cecilia, ana a bursting pomegranate, the emblem of Granada. The window
is also said to bive been ordered bj Ferdinand and Isabella, on Prince Arthur being affianced, in 1480.
to the Princess Catherine, Uieir portraits being procured for the purpose. It was probably finished
after his brother's death, to be sent as a gift to Henry VIII. Tbe Icing gave it to Waltham Abbey,
where it remained until Uie Dissolution, a.d. 1540; when the last abbot sent it for safety to his private
^laod at New Hall, which, by purchase, subsequently became the property of Sir Thomas, father of
Anne Boleyn. queen of Henry VIII. The chapel renulned undisturbed until General Monk becoming
poeaessor of New Hall, to save the window from destruction by the Puritans, had it buried undei^round.
After the Bestotation, Monk replaced the window in the chapel. Subsequent to his death, the seat fell
into decay, and the chapel was taken down : but the window was preserved for some time cased up,
until purchased by Mr. Convers, of Copt Hall, Essex, Xxj whose son it was sold, in 1758, to the church-
wardeos of St. Margaret's for 400 guineas : it was then placed in the church, re-opened in 1759, a fine
anthem for the occasion being composed by Dr. Boyoe. A prosecution was now instituted aninst the
parishiooera by Uie Dean and Chapter of Westminster, for putting up what was attempted to be proved
' a superstitious Image or picture." After seven years' suit, the bill was dismissed; in memory of
which Mr. Churchwarden Pelrson presented, as a gift for ever, to the churchwardens of the parish, a
richly •chased cup, stand, and cover, silver- gut, weighing 93 oz. 16 dwt., which is the loving-cup of St.
Margaret's, and is produced with especial ceremony at the ehief parochial entertainments.
St. Margaret's u otherwise rich in painted glass : the north-east window is filled with gold mosais
designs, the Holy Monogram, the red and white roses, and portcullis, and a saint (lago of Compostella?)
bearmg an open book. The crescent beside the rose, Mr. Kickman thought, denoted some " expectancy
ofr^dampUtude;" so Shakspeare :
"PoMfMy. My power 's a crescent, and my auguring hope
Ss^ it will come to the foXir-^Ani, andCUop, act U, so. 1.
XT
178 CUBI08ITIH8 OF LONDON.
In thb and ih* loath-Mst windows an the anns of Edward the Confesaor, represented as blazoned by
the heralds Uwm. Henrr YIII. The saint in the centre is St. Michael OTcrcominff the dragon.—
Abridged from Walootf s WutmimUr.
Hie Chancel is decorated m polychrome by "^i^^ement : and over the reredoa are
crocketed canopies, coloured niby, azure, and emerald diaper, and richly gilded. In
1802, the present beantifoUy carved pnlpit and reading-desk, by Lenox, were erected ;
the Speaker's chair of state was placed in the front of the west gallery ; and a new
Organ, by Avery, was built. Altogether, the votes of the House of Commons for the
repairs of this church have been frequent and considerable. Upon certain occauons,
as Bestoration Day (May 29), the ChapUun of the House of Commons preached here ;
when the House was usually represent^ by the Speaker, the Seijeant-at-Arms, the
clerks and other officers^ and some eight or ten members. These and similar obser-
vances, as on Jan. dO, King Charles's Martyrdom, and Nov. 5, Gunpowder Plot, have
been discontinued since 185S. The church originally consisted of a Nave and Choir^
with side aisles ; with chapels or altars in the latter to St. Margaret> St. Qeorge, St.
Katherine, St Erasmus, St. John, and St. Cornelius, besides two to St. Nicholas and
St. Christopher : the diuzchwardens' accounts bear evidence of the muntenanoe of
these shrines. In the ambulatory is a carved stall of the 16th century.
Asuuiffthe names of the more eminent of the Poritaas who preached In St Marsaref s, are those of
Calamy, vines, Nje, Manton, Marshall, Ganden, Owen, Bnrgess, Newoomen, Bejrnolds. ChejnelL
Baxter, Case (who censored Cromwell to his face, and when diaconising before General Monk, criea
out " There are some wlU betray three kingdoms for filthy Incre's sake," and threw his handkerchief
into the General's pew) ; the critical Lightfoot ^Taylor, ** the illuminated Doctor ;" and Goodwyn, *' the
windmill with a weathercock npon the top."— Waloott^s Wtttmhulmr.
The monuments are very numerous : among them are a tablet to Caxton the
printer, by Westmacott, rused 1820 by the Roxburgh Club; alabaster figures,
coloured and gilt, to Marie Lady Dudley (d. 1600); brass tablet, put up by subscription,
1S45, to Sir Walter Raleigh, whose body was interred within the Chancel of this church
on the day he was beheaded in the Old Palace-yard, Oct 29, 1618 ; a black marble
slab to James Harring^n (d. 1677), who wrote Oceana ; monument near the porch-
door to Mrs. £. Corbet, with what Johnson considered " the most valuable of all
Pope's epitaphs ;" monument to Captain Sir Peter Parker, Bart, R.N., with bas-relief
of his death, 1814, and lines by Lord Byron, in Chancel north aisle : a curious tablet
of Cornelius Van Dun (d. 1577), with a coloured bust in the uniform of the Yeomen
of the Guard : and a small monument to Mrs. Joane Bamett (d. 1674), who left
money for a yearly sermon and poor widows : she is said to have sold oatmeal cakes hard
by the chnrdi-door, in memory of which a large oatmeal pudding is a standing dish at
the '* Feast." There is bat one ancient brass in the church, the rest having been sold
in 1644, at Sd. and Ad, per pound, as the churchwardens' accounts attest Weever
records the burial here of John Skdton, Poet Laureate to Henry YIII. (d. 1529) ; and
the registers contain the burial of Thomas Churchyarde, " Court Poet " (d. 1604). Soon
after tiie Restoration, several bodies were disinterred from the Abbey, and depodted in
a pit in St Margaret's churchyard : among them was the corpse of Oliver Cromwell's
mother, from Henry VII/s Chapel ; Sir W. Constable, one of the judges in the trial of
Charles 1.; Admiral Blake; John Pimme; Thomas May, the poet, &c Here, too,
are buried Sir William Waller, the Parliament General (d. 1668); Hollar, the engraver
(d. 1677)* in the churchyard, " near k.w. corner of the tower " (Aubrey) ;
Thomas Blood, who attempted to steal the regalia (d. 1680) ; Gadbury the Cavalier
astrologer, and helpmate of Lilly (d. 1704) ; Frances Whate (d. 1736), a charwoman,
buried in the church ; John Read, the *' Walking Rushlight,'' and the oldest general in
the service (d. 1807). The churchyard is extremely crowded with bodies. In the
report on Extramural Sepulture, 1850, Dr. Reid stated, " that the state of the bury-
ing'g^ond around St Margaret's Church is prejudicial to the air supplied at the
Houses of Parliament* and also to the whole neighbourhood ;" that ** these offensive
emanations have been noticed at all hours of the night and morning ;" and that even
"fresh meat is frequently tmnted" by the deleterious gases issuing from this church-
yard. The removal of the church was proposed even in Stow's time, and has often
been revived : it was favoured by Sir Charles Barry, in his design for the completion of
the New Palace of Westminster : if allowed to remain, the church should be restored,
to harmonize with the Abbey, to which it was originally an adjunct. Among the be-
CHUBCHES AND GHAPELS. 179
— - ■ — •■ -
qopstn is an endowment, founded in 1781, by the will of Mr. Edward Dickenson, who
left hOQOl. stock, the interest of which was to be divided, on the first month after
E&<ter-day, between three newly-married couples from each parish of St. Margaret
and St. John the Evangelist, Westminster, and of Acton. The distribution takes place
with the approbation of the Bishop of London ; and petitions are taken into oonsidera-
Virm by the trustees on the Wednesday in Easter week, when they decide on the nine
couples to receive the bounty, 152. each.
A eelebraied bdrloom of the parish ii the ** Oveneen' Box,** origfiBsUy purohased at Horn Fair fbr
fiwrpcnee, and presented by a jf r. Monck to bis brother Overseers, In 1718. In 1713, the Society of
Pajst UTerscersoommemoratedthegift by addhig to the Box a silver rim; and in 1720 were added a
siivcr side-case and bottom. In 1740, an embossed border was placed on the lid, and the bottom
enriched with an emblem of Charity. In 1746, Hogarth engraved inside the lid a bast of the Duke of
Caraberland, in memory of the battte of Cnllooen. In 1796 was added to the lid a plate with the arms
of the City of Westminster, and the inscription :— " This Box is to be delivered to every succeeding set
o( Orerseers, on pouUty of five guineas." The original Horn Box thos ornamented has been plaoed In
fo-ir additional eases, each ornamented by its several custodians, the senior Overseer for the time being,
vitn sliver plates engraved wiUi the following sobiectt:- Fireworks in St James's Park (Peace of
A > x-l»-Chapelle). 1749 ; Admiral Keppel's Action off Ushant, and his Acquittal by Court Martial ; Battle
of the Mile, 1798; Repulse of Admhal Linois, 1804; Battle of Trafldnr, 1806 ; Action between San
Florenxo and 1^ Piedmontaise, 1806; Battle of Waterloo, 1816; Bombarament of Algiers, 1816; House
af Lords at Trial of Queen Caroline ; Coronation of Qeorge IV., and his visit to Scotland, 1822.
Portraits :— Wilkes, Churehwarden in 1769; Nelson, Duncan, Howe, and Vhicent; Fox and Pitt, 1806;
the Prince Beffent^ 1811 ; Prinoeas Charlotte, 1817; and C^een Charlotte, 1818. Views .—Interior or
Westminster Hall, with Westminster Volunteers attendhig Divine Service, on Fast-day, 1803 : the old
S^^ioDs House; St. Margaret's Church from north-east, the west fhmt^ tower, and flJtar-piece. In
1^13 was added to the outer case a large silver plate portrait of the Duke of Wellington, commemorating
the centenaiTof the box. The top of the second case represents the Governors in their board-room,
inscribed, " The original Box and cases to be given to every succeedhig set of Overseers, on penalty of
fifty gohieaa, 1783." Outside the first case is engraved a cripple. In 1793, a contumadoos Overseer
detained the Box, and it was deposited " in ChsncoT" until 1796^ when it was restored to the Overseers'
Society ; this event being commemorated by the addition of a third ease, of Justice trampling upon aa
nnmauced man and a serpent, and the Lord Chancellor (Loughborough) pronouncing his decree. On
the fooxth, or outer ease, is the Anniversary meeting of the Past Overseers Society, and the delivery of
the Box to the soeceeding Overseer, who must produce it at certain parochial entertidnments, with three
pipes of tobaoco at least, under the penalty of six bottles of claret; and must return the whole safe and
sMmd, with some addition, under penalty of two hundred guineas. Within the Box is a mother-of-
pearl tobaoco-stopper, with a silver ehain.— Abridged firom walcott's WutmMuUr^
St. Mask's, Eennington Common, a Doric church, dengned by Roper, and bnilt
in 1824^ on the spot formerly the place of execution for Sorrey, and where several per-
■obs anffiared death in the Stnait caose. Here was exeented " Jemmy Dawson," 1746.
St. HAXX'e, Old-ttreet-road, St Luke's, a beautiful Early English Church, designed
by Ferrey, and built in 1848 : it has a noble four-storied tower and spire, rising from
the groand 125 feet; and the windows throughout the edifice are fine.
St. Mask's, Victoria Docks, near the little village of Silvsrtown, was built for the
aeoommodation of the " Londoners over the border." The style is English Decorated,
fifteenth century : materials, inside and outside, white and coloured bricks ; Teulon,
architect. It contains 1000 sittings, and cost 7000/. : the Organ, a fpSt, is fine.
St. MASTnr's-iK-THX-FiBXDs, north of the western extremity of the Strand, is the
second church built upon this site; the first having been erected by Henry VIII.,
from his disliking the funerals of inhabitants passing Whitehall in their way to St
Margaret's^ at Westminster, as they had no parish church. It is probable that
there waa a building before this, but " only a chapel for the use of the monks of West-
minster when they visited their Convent (CooenQ Garden, which then extended to
it." — {J. ChoUt.) The old church had a low square tower, and was strictly " in the
fields :" in 1607, Henry Prince of Wales added a chancel. In this ancient church waa
buried Nicholas Stone, the sculptor, his monument adorned with his bust finely carved
in profile, with tools used in sculpture^ oompassesy &c. : he was engaged in the building
of the Banqucting-honse, Whitehall. No doubt the sculpture, scrolls, and other orna-
ments in stone were of his work. In this church also were interred Paul Vaiisomer,
pnrtrait-painter, scarcely inferior to Yaiidyck ; Nicholas Laniere, painter, musician,
aud engraver, and who bought pictures for Charles I. ; Nicholas Lyzard, who had been
ill t!ie service of Henry VIII. and Edward VI., and who was sergeant-painter to
Queen Elizabeth ; Nicholas Hilliard, limner, jeweller, and goldsmith to Queen Elizabeth,
aud afterwards to King James 1. 1 he was, perhaps^ the best miniature-painter who
S 2
180 CURIOSITIES OF LONDON.
1 . ii
bad appeared : also Sir Theodore Mayeme, the phyacian, a friend of Vandyck, to whom
he oommunicated valuable information relating to pigments ; also Dobaon, the English
Vandyck ; Qeorge Farqahar, the oomic dramatist ; Nell Gwynne was interred in
the church ; and Jack Sheppard in tiie burial-ground. In the church was buried,
Oct. dl» 1679, Sir Edmund Berry Godfrey, found murdered in a ditch near Chalk
Farm : the corpse was brought from Bridewell Hospital with great pomp, eight knights
supporting the pall, and attended by all the City aldermen, 72 London ministers,
and ubuve 100 persons of distinction. At the funeral sermon two divines sUxA by the
preaelier, lest he should be assassinated by the Papists. The Hon. Robert Boyle was
buried here, and his fiineral sermon was preached by his fHend Dr. Burnet. The Organ
was built by Schmydt, in 1676, and he himself was the first organist here, and played
for a salary. Edward, a son of the celebrated Henry IHvcell, was elected organist in
1 726. The old church was taken down in 1720-21, and the present church commenced
from a design by Gibbs, when King G^rge I., by proxy, laid the first stone, March 19,
1721, gave the workmen 100 guineas, and subsequently, upon being chosen church-
warden, presented the Organ, built by Schreider ; but this has long given place to
another Organ, built by Gray.
The present church was consecrated in 1726 : the cost of its erection was 36,8912. 10#.4<2.
Its length, including the portico, is equal to twice its width : it is in the florid Roman
or Italian style, and has a very fine western Corinthian hezastyle portico : the east end
is truly elegant, and the round columns at each angle of the building render it very
effective in profile. The tower and spire riise out of the roof, behind the portico. The
interior is richly ornamented, " a little too gay and theatrical for Protestant worship."
In 1842, 45 feet of the spire were struck by lightniug, and had to be restored at the
expense of 10002. : the ball and vane were also regilt ; the latter is 6 feet 8 inches
high and 5 feet long, and is surmounted with a crown, to denote this the parish of the
Sovereign ; and in its registers are entered the births of the royal children bom at
Buckingham Pftlace. The tower has a fioe peal of twelve bells ; but the story of Nell
Gwynne having lefb a legacy, paid wetikly to the ringers, has no foundation in fVict.
High in the steeple hangs a small shrill bell, formerly called the Sanctus, and now
the Saint's or Parson's Bell. ** It was rung before the Reformation, when the priest
came to the Sanctus, * Holy, holy, holy. Lord God of Sabaoth !' so that those without
the church might participate in the devotions of those present at the most solemn
part of the divine office." — The Parixh Choir, No. 59.
The churchyard was paved in 182 J ; and in 1831, the vaults beneath the church
were reconstructed, each vault being 10 feet high, 20 wide, and 40 long. Here is pre*
served the old parish whipping-post, with a carved head.
In the present church rest Roubiliac, the sculptor ; and Scott, the author of a VisU
to Paris, who was killed in a duel in 1821. The remains of John Hunter were
depodted in the vaults in 1793, whence they wene removed with fitting ceremony in
1859 to Westminster Abbey.
St. Mabtin's, Gospel Oak Fields, between Kentish Town and Haverstock-hill, is a
carefully finished specimen of that now rare style, the Third Pointed, or Perpendicular.
Tlie tower at the north-west, almost detached from the body of th« church, is square,
lofty, has rather large windows, and an angle turret crowned by a small spirelet^
shorter pinnacles capping the other angles ; of which form we remember no other
example about London. There are also two capped turrets at the junction of the Nave
and Chancel. The windows have florid tracery ; the roof is an elaborate one, on the
hammer-beam principle, and is of dark varnished timber, rich in effect. With the
parsonage, this church is estimated to cost 13,000/., defrayed by Mr. J. B. Alcroft ;
architect, E. B. Lamb. It will accommodate 1000 worshippers, who will all have an
almost uninterrupted view of the Chancel, reading-desk, and pulpit ; 400 sittings are
free. The tower contains six bells, of deep tone.
St. Martin's, Ironmonger-lane, was a small church, and also called St. Martin
Pomary, *' on what account (saith the antiquary) he knoweth not; but it is supposed
from apples growing there."
St. Mabtik's Ludgate, near the site of the City gate of that name, hi Lndgate-
0treet, waa rebuilt by Wren after the Great Fire : the steeple has a small gallery, and
0HUB0HE8 AND CHAFEL8. 181
riaes 168 feet. Between Ludgate-street and the body of the church is an ambalatoiy,
the whole depth of the tower, so as to lessen within the church the noise from the
street. In the vestry-room are a carved seat (date 1690), and several carious coffers
or chests. The font has a Grreek inscription, a palindrome, i.e,, it reads the same back-
as forwards. In the old church was the following epitaph, dated 1590 :«•
Earth goes to
Earth treads on
Earth aa to
Earth shall to
Earth upon
Earth ffoes to
Earth Uiough on
Earth ahall from
Earth
Earth
As mold to mold
Glittering in arold
Return here ahoold
, Goe ere he would
' Consider may
Paaaed awar
Is stoat and gay
, Posse pdbr away.
The spire of St. Martin's, backed by the campanile towers and msgestic dome of St.
Paul's, seen from Fleet-street, is a fine architectural group; although the injudicious
have condemned the spire as an obstacle in the view. Extraordinary antiquity has
been claimed for the ancient church of St. Martin : according to Newcourt, it is alleged
that Cadwallo, the valiant King of the Britons, after he had reigned for forty years^
died in 677, and was buried in this place ; and Bobert of Glo'ster tells us of this said
monarch—
" A Chorch of St Mar^^n. Uvyng he let rere.
In whTch Yat men shorn Goddys semyse do^
And Biug for his soole and al Christene also."
The former church was dated 1437. Samuel Purchas, known by his Pilgrimage*, was
rector here in 1618 : he is styled " the English Ptolemy," but gained more £une than
profit by his publications.
St. Mabtut Obgab, now united to the a^aoent parish of St. Clement, near East-
cheap, formerly possessed a church on this spot, which, after having served as a place of
woniiip for French Protestants for about twenty years, was pulled down in the
year 1820. The old dock -tower remained standing till 1851, together with two
adjoining houses belonging to the parish, formerly known as " the rectory." These
have be^ taken down, and a new dock and bell-tower erected, the lower part forming
part of the rectory-house ; the upper part only being appropriated for the reception
of the dock, whilst the cupoletta, whidi crowns the composition, receives an andent
bell, which is highly valued by the parish. The hdght is about 110 feet to the top of
the pine, which forms the finial. The tower is five cUameters high to the top of the
cornice, the proportion adopted in most of Wren's towers. The bracket-clock is
picturesque.
St. Mabtdi'b Otttwioh (Otteswich), Bishopsgate-street* was originally biult in the
fourteenth century, in the Pointed style, with a low tiled roof and square tower; and
the churchwardens' accounts (1508 to 1545) contain entries of andent usages previous
to the Reformation: as, "Wyne on Relyks Sondaye, 1<2. ;" "Paschall or Hallowed
Taper, tenebur Candell and Cross Candell, License to eate flesh," &c. This church
escaped the (Sreat Fire of 1666, but was greatly injured in a conflagration in Nov. 1765,
whidi burnt fifty houses. In 1796, the present church was built by S. P. Cockerell.
Its form is oval, with a recess for the chancel, in the ceiling of whidi is a light filled
with stained glass, mostly from the old church. There are also several monuments
from the same, including two recumbent stone figures of John Oterwich and his wiie^
thdr head-cushions supported by angels ; the feet of the man resting ag^ainst a lion,
and those of the female against a dog. Here also is a canopied tomb, date 1500, with
remains of brass fig^es, armorial bearings, and labels against the back j and several
stone effigies to the memory of Alderman Staper (1594): "bee was the greatest
merchant in his tyme, the chiefest actor in disoovere of the trades of Turkey and East
India, && ;" also two brass fig^ures of rectors of the church in the fifteenth century.
Few would expect to find these monumental treasures within a church of such un-
ecdesiastical design. It contains also a fine picture of the Resurrection, by Kgaud.
The South Sea House, which is in St. Martin's, was given to the parish by Mrs. Mar-
garet Taylor, in 1667.
St. Mabt Abbots', Kensingfton, the mother-church, was rebuilt 1696 : here are
manoments to Edward, eighth £arl of Warwick and Holland (d. 1759), with hig
182 CUBZOSITIES OF LONDOK
effigieiy seated, and reponng upon an nm ; and to the three Colmans : Francis Colman ;
bis son, George, "the Elder;" and his son, "the Younger:" the two hitter wrote
several comedies, and were proprietors of the Haymarket Theatre. In the churchyard
are monuments to Jortin, author of the Life of Erasmus, and Yicar of Eennng^ton ;
and to Mrs. Inchhald (a Roman Catholic), a beauty, a virtue, a player, and authoress
of the Simple Story, Here, too^ is buried WilUam Courten, the traveller and
naturalist, whoso curionties^ it is said, filled ten rooms in the Middle Temple : this
collection he bequeathed to Sir Hans Sloane, and thus it became part of the nucleus of
the British Museum. James Mill, the historian of British India, is buried here ; and a
son of George Canning, with a headstone by Chantrey. St. Mary's, Kensington, had a
''Vicar of Bray " in one Thomas Hodges, collated to the living by Archbishop Juxon :
he kept his preferment during the Civil War and interregnum, by joining alternately
with either party ; although a frequent preacher before the Long Parliament and one
of the Assembly of Divines, he was made Dean of Hereford after the Bestoration, but
eon^ued A^car of Kensington. — (Murray's Environs oj London, p. 69.) The Organ
is a fine old instrument ; and there is a good peal of bells. The ancient church of
Kensington (Chenesit) is mentioned in Draiesday, and had for its patron Aubrey do
Yere, who came over with the Conqueror, from whom he received the manor.
St. Mabt Abchxtboh, Abchurch-lane^ was destroyed by the' Great Fire, and rebuilt
by Wren in 1686 : its tower and spire are 140 feet high : the interior 'has a large
cupola, punted by Sir James Thomhill ; and an altar-piece, with fruit and flowers,
exquisitely carved by Gibbons, and originally painted after nature by Thomhill. The
Organ is by Bishop.
St. Mast Aldebhabt, Bow-lane, b the third church erected on this rite. To the
first, ]Uchard Chancer, vintner, gave his tenement and tavern, with the appurtenances
in the royal street, the comer of Kerrion-lanc, and was there buried, 1348. It is
believed that this was the father of Chaucer the poet. Charles Blunt, Lord Monnljoy,
was buried there about the year 1&45. In 1510, Sir Henry Keble, Lord Mayor of
London, began to rebuild the church. This church was destroyed in the Great Fire^
with the exception of the tower, so built by Lord Mayor Keble, the lower part of which
was repaired by Sir Christopher Wren, and the upper pert new built in 1681, a sum
equal to 50002. heing fiirnished for that purpose by the widow of Henry Rogers, in
pursuance of his will. The clustered columns, fine groinings, large drcular ornamental
openings for skylights, the ceilings decorated with flowers, foliage, and shields, and the
fine east window, are admired. In 1885 some houses abutting upon the north wall of
the church were pulled down, which brought to light a crypt, possibly the vaulted ceme-
tery of the old church, about 60 feet in length and 10 feet wide, having five arches on
each ride in the Pointed style of architecture. The church is a specimen of Wren's
Gothic, for which his apologists plead that he was required to follow the plan of the
old church destroyed by fire. The tower, with four turrets* is 130 feet high. In the
great storm of 1708, two of these turrets were blown down.
St. Mast's, Battersea, a church of tasteless design, built in 1776, is remarkable
for containing Boubiliac's elegant monument to the celebrated Lord Bolingbroke, and
his second wife, a niece of Madame de Maintenon. In the east window are three
portraits : 1. Margaret Beauchamp, ancestor (by her first husband. Sir Oliver St. John)
of the St. Johns, and (by her second husband, John Beaufort, Duke of Somerset)
grandmother to Henry VII. ; 2. the portrait of that monarch ; 8. the portrait of
Queen Elizabeth, placed here because her grandfather, Thomas Boleyn, Earl of Wilt-
shire' (father of Queen Anne Boleyn), was the grandfather of Anne, ^e daughter of
Sir Thomas Leighton, and wife of Sir John St. John, the first baronet of the fiunily.
Here is a monument to Sir Edward Wynter, who died 1635-6; it has a bas-relief
representing the feats thus commemorated in the inscription :
" Alone, miinn'd, a tjger he opprees'd.
And cnuh'd to death the monster of a beast ;
Twice twenty mounted Moon he OTerthrew
Singly on foot; some wounded, some he slew,
Dispers'd the rest. What more could Samson do ?**
At the top is a large bust of Sir Edward, in a flowing peruke and lace shirt.
CHUBCEES AND CHAPELS. 183
St. MABT-itB-BoKSy or St. Mazy-at-the-Bonrne, at the end of the High-street, verging
on the New-road, was originally the mother-church of Marylehone, and was rebuilt in
1741, on the ate of an edifice erected about 1400, on the removal of the ancient
chnrbh of Tyburn, " which stood in a lonely place near the highway (on or near the
Bite of the present Court-house^ at the comer of Stratford-place), subject to the depre-
dations of robbers, who frequently stole the images, bells^ and ornaments." — (Lysons's
JSmviromg, yd. iii. 1795.) In Vertoe's Flan, about 1560, the only building seen between
the village of St. Giles's and Primrose-hill is the little solitary church of Maxylebone :
its interior is shown in one of Hogarth's plates of the Bakers Progren (the Marriage),
where some ill-spelt verses on the vault of the Forset fianily, and the churchwarden^^
names, are accurately copied ; this plate was published in 1735, and part of the original
inscription was preserved in the present church, oonyerted into a parish cbapd in 1817,
on the consecration of the church in the New-road. In the chapel are tablets to Gibbs,
the architect ; Baretti, the friend of Dr. Johnson ; and CaroUne Watson, the engraver ;
aind in the churchyard is a monument to James Ferguson, the Astronomer. Among
the burials in the register are James Figg, the prize-fighter ; Vanderbank, the par*
trait-painter; Hoyle^ aged 90, who wrote the TretUiae on Whists Rysbrack, the
sculptor; and Allan Ramsay, portrait-painter, and son of the author of the Oeidle
Skepierd. In Paddington-street are two burial-grounds formerly attached to this
church. In 1511, the Marylebone curate's stipend was only 13f. per annum; inlGSO,
the impropriation was valued at 80/. per annum, and Ridiard Bonner was curate;
before the late separation, the value of the lining was 1898/.
In a Map pobllahed In 1748; the dlmlnntiTe oborch of St Maiy-Ie-boaie Is shown detached from
Iiondoii, with two sigxag man leading to it» one near Vere-Btreett then the western eztremi^ of the
newbnildingt, and tte leoona from Tottenham-Coort-road. Bows of honeee, with their backs to the
fields, extended from St OUes*! Ponnd to Oxford-market; bat Tottenham-Gourt-road had onlj one
dnster on the west slde^ and the spring^wttter hoose. The sigvag way above mentioned, near ver»>
street etlll retaininj^ its orladnal name of Marj-le-bone-lane, was the communication between the hijrh
road and the Tillage. A mend, bom in 1780, remembers his fiither and mother relating how they
walked out tkrougk UkeJUldt, to be married at Marybone Chnrch.
St. Mabtliebove (New Church), New-road, opposite York Gate, Begent's-park^
derigned by T. Hardwick, father of P. Hardwire, R.A., was originally built "on
speculation'' as a chapel; and was purchased by the parish, and concerted into a
handsome church, at tiie cost of 60,000/. It has a lofty stone dock-tower and portico ;
the interior was at first objected to as too theatrical in arrangement : it has an altar-
picture of the Holy Family, painted and presented by B. West, PJft.A. Cosway and
Northoote^ Royal Academicians, are buried here.
St. Mabt-£B-Bow, Cheapeide, ** for divers aoddents happening there, hath hoen
made more famous than any other parish church of the whole dty or suburbs."—*
(Stow.) If not originally a Roman temple, as was once believed, this was one of the
earliest drarches built by our Norman conquerors. Stow says it was named St. Mary
de ArevMu, from its hdng built on arches of stone, the semicircular-arched Norman
crypt, extant to this day : and hence is named the " Court of Arches," fbrmerly held
in the diurch. About 1190, Longbeard, ringleader of a tumult, took refuge in the
steeple, which was fired to drive him out : in 1271, part of the steeple fell, and killed
several persons ; and some years after its repair, one Ducket, a goldsmith, fled here for
Sanctuary, and was murdo^d. The old steeple was entirely rebuilt by 1460, when
the Common Council ordered that Bow bell should be rung nightly at nine o'dock, a
vestige of the Norman curfow ; in 1472, two tenements in Homer-lane (now Bow-lai^e),
were bequeathed '* to the maintenance of Bow bell," which being rung for the
closing of shops somewhat late, the young men, 'prentices, and others in Cheap, made
this rhyme :
" Clarke of the Bow belL with the yellow locket,
Tor thy late ringing, thy head shall have knockes."
To which the Clerk replied :— •
" Children of Cheape, hold yon all still.
For yon shall have the Bow bell mng at yoorwiU." .
William Copeland, churchwarden, dther gave a new bell for this purpose^ or caused
the old one to be recast, in 1515 : Weever says the former. In 1512, the arches and
184 CUBIOSITIES OF LONDON.
spire of the tower were provided with lanterns, as beacons for travellers : the latter is
shown in the View of London, 1643 (in the Sutherland Collection) ; it has a centritl
lantern, or bell-turret, and a pinnacle at each comer. The church was rebuilt, as we
now see it, by Wren, after the Great Fire of 1666, and the belfry was prepared for
twelve bells, though only eight were placed ; but two were subsequently added, and
the set of ten bells was first rung in 1762. {See Bells, p. 46.) The earliest monu-
ment in the old church was that to Sir John Coventry, Mayor in 1425 : Weever g^ves
his epitaph. The present church contains a large marble sarcophagus, with figures of
Faith and a cherub, and a medallion bust, by Banks, R.A., of Bishop Newton, twenty-
five years rector of this parish, and interred in St. Paul's.
Bow Church is one of Wren^ finest works: it is well described in Godwin's
Churches of London. The large Palladian doorways are noble ; and the campanile is
one of Wren's most picturesque designs.
The droalar peristyle, or continued range of oolamna, which rises from a stylobate ou the top of the
tower (a roiniatore representation of that around the dome of St. Paul's), let it be viewed from wbst
point it may be, u the most beaatif ol feature of the steeple. By the introauction of the combined scrolls
at esch angle of the tower, Wreu has endeavoured to prevent that appearance of abruptness which
would otherwise have resulted firom the sudden tomiitlon from the square to the circular form, and has
caused the outline to be gradually pyramidlcal Arom the top of the tower to the vane. The flying
buttresses, which appear to support the columns above the peristyle, are introduced chiefly with a view
to effect the same end.
The spire was repaired by Sir W. Staines when a young stonemason ; and in 1820 it
was in part rebuilt by George Gwilt, F.S.A., but was not lowered, as generally believed.
Its height is 225 feet ; the dragon, ten feet long, was regilt, and a young Irishman
descended from the spire point on its back, pushing it firom the cornices and scaffolds
with his feet, in the presence of thousands of spectators.* Over the doorway in
Cheapdde is a small balcony, intended as a place to view procesaons firom. The present
bells are much heavier, and more powerful in tone, than the first set. It requires two
men to ring the largest (the tenor, 53 cwt., key C.) The ringers belong to the Society
of *' College Youths," founded in 1637, and named from the College of St. Spirit and
Mary, built by Sir Richard Whittington, on College-hill, Upper Thames-street, and
burnt down in the Great Fire. A book recording the names of the founders and
members of the College Youths, from 1637 to 1724, was lost about the latter date,
and only recovered in 1840. Another Society, called the " Cumberland Society," rang
for a few years at Bow Church. There is a peal called the " Wliittington Peal," which
can only be rung on twelve bells. (See Bow Bells, p. 47.)
Independentlv of ordinary services in the church, prayers are read and the Sacrament administered
at eij^ht o'clock m the morning on evenr festival throughout the year which does not fall on a Sunday.
This 18 in compliance with the will of Mr. Bobert Nelson, author of the Companion to ihe Fe$tivaJ4 and
Faiti of the Church of Enaland^ who left for the purpose 3^ per annum. Formerly, the Boyle lectures
were delivered here, but tney have been discontinued for some years psst. The Bishops elect of the
province of Canterbury attend at this church, previous to their consecration, to take the oaths of
supremacy, &c.
St. Mast's, Islington, "the old church," is built upon the site of a church with an
embattled tower and bell-turret, and which was presumed to be 300 years old when
taken down in 1751. One of its oldest monuments was that to ** Thomas Gore,
parsonne of Isledon and Westhame," who died in 1499 : here were also memorials of
the Fowlers, and Dame Katheiine Brook, nurse who " nourished with her milk " the
Princess Mary, daughter of Henry YIII. Dame Alice Owen, foundress of the alms-
houses and school at the top of Goswell-road, was buried here ; and here are two
monumental brasses of the Savills. Dr. Cave, the learned ecclesiastical historian, and
ch&plain to Charles II., who became vicar of Islington at the age of 25, was buried in
the old church. The present church was erected by Launcelot Dowbiggin, opened
May 26, 1754. It has a tower and stone spire, 164 feet high, and a fine peal of eij^ht
bells, each inscribed with a couplet inculcating loyalty, love, and harmony. In 1787,
when a lightning conductor was affixed to the spire, one Thomas Bird constructed
round it a wickerwork scaffold, with steps within. Among the persons buried here
are Dr. Hawes, one of the originators of the Himiane Society ; Earlom, the mezzo-
* One of Mother Shipton's prophecies was, that when the Dragon of Bow Church and the Grass-
hopper of the Boyid Ezcnanffc snould meet, London streets would be deluged with blood I In 1820 both
these vanes were lying UmLer in a stonemason's yard in Old-street Btwd, where the upper portion of
Wren's s^rfre is preservea to this day.
CHUBCEES AND CITAPEL8, 185
tiato engraver ; and John Nichols, F.S^., the editor of the Oentleman't Moffaxine,
his grave heing a few yards from the house in which he was horn. During the List
forty years more than sixteen churches have heen erected in the district of Islington^
and Dissenting chapels have multiplied in a similar proportion.
St. Mast, Lambeth, the mother-church of the manor and parish, stands within
the patriarchal shade of Lambeth Palace, and has a Perpendicular tower, lately
restored. *In the Bishop's Register at Winchester, date 1377, is a commisraon to
compel the inhabitants to erect this tower for their church, then newly built. In the
chnrchwardens' accounts, " pewes '' are mentioned as early as the reign of Philip and
Mary. The eastern end of the north aisle, built 1522, by the Duke of Norfolk, is
called the Howard Chapel. In the church are the tombs of these Archbishops of
Canterbury : Parker, d. 1575 ; Bancroft, d. 1610 ; Tenison, d. 1715 ; Hutton, d. 1758 ;
Seeker (m passage between church and palace), d. 1768 ; Comwallis, d. 178S ; Moore,
d.1805.
In burying Archbishop ComwalUs, were found the remains of Thirlby, the first and only Bishop of
ttminster: he died a prisoner in Lambeth Palace {temp. Elizabeth). The body was discovered
tpped hi fine Unen, the face perfect, the beard long and white, the linen and woollen nrments well
preserved; the cap, silk and point lace, as in portraits of Archbishop Juxon; slouched hat, under left
Westminster: he died a prisoner in Lambeth Palace {temp. Elizabeth). The body was discovered
vnpped in fine Unen, the face perfect, the beard long and wbf
preserved; the rap, silk and point lace, as in portraits of Arc
srm ; cassock, like apron with strings ; and pieces of garments Uke a'pilgrlm's habit
Here also are the tombs of Alderman Goodbehere ; Madame Storace, the singer ;
Peter Dollond, inventor of the achromatic telescope ; and Elias Ashmole, the antiquary.
In the churchyard is the altar-tomb of the Tradescants, father and son :
** These &mou8 antiquarians that had been
Both gardeners to the Bose and Lily qwenJ'—Spiiapk.
The tomb is sculptured with palm-trees, hydra and skull, obelisk and pyramid, and
Grecian ruins, crocodile, and shells. In the Register are entered the burials of Simon
Forman, the astrologer ; and Edward Moore, who wrote the tragedy of The Gamester,
In a window of the middle aisle is painted a pedlar with his pack and dog, said to
represent the person who bequeathed to the parish of Lambeth *' Pedlar's Acre," pro-
vided his portrait and that of his dog were perpetually preserved in one of the church
windows. When the painting was first put up is unknown, but it existed in 1608 ;
"a new glass pedlar " was put up in 1703, but removed in 1816.
The name of the beneftetor is unknown; but it has been sngsested that this portrait was intended
ntlttr u a reboa upon the name '* Chapman" than upon his trade : fbr in SwafTham Church, Norfolk,
b the portrait of John Chapman, a sreat benefiMjtor to that imrish ; and the device of a pedlar and his
pack occurs in several parts of the cnurch, which has given rise to nearly the same tradition at Swaffham
M It iMibeth. {Pr^ace to HeartuTi CaH A«tiquitate$, p. 84) Besides, Pedlar's Acre was not originally
■0 caDed, but the Church Hopes, or Hopys (an isthmus of land prqiecting into the river), and is entered
Ib the Begister as bequeathed by " a person unknown."— PopuMr Bmn Sxplainedf S^, p. 283.
The chorch, except the tower, has been rebuilt by Hardwick in correct design ; the
font is fine, and many of the windows are fiUed with memorial stained glass. The
iMills nnd Conununion-plate are of very considerable age, the latter of great value.
St. Makt-at-Utll, Eastcheap, " called on the hill because of tho ascent from
BQlingsgate," rebuilt by Wren, after the Ghreat Fire, had this singular custom :
their oflfarings. Afterwards the inhabitants of the parish, and tiieir wives, make their ofTeilngs; and
the money tans offered is given to the poor, decreet porters of the Company for their better support."
The church was built by Wren, between 1672 and 1677, the west-end tower being
of mbsequent date : the exterior of the east end alone remains. In 1848-9, the interior
was entirely refitted, with such an extent of carving as had not been executed before
in the City for many years. Tho pillars supporting the organ gallery are ornamented
with fruit and flowers. The great screen has a fi*ame of oak ; the Rector's pew and
rea^ng-desk are enriched with carved open tracery, and brackets surmounted with
tbe royal supporters, bearing shields with y.B. 1849. The pulpit is entirely new,
>nd is very el^rately carved : in the sounding-board are bosses of flowers of 12-inch
projection ; from the eyes of the volutes garlands of flowers are suspended, which pass
throogh the split trusses, and fall down, crossing and uniting behind ; and within the
P^t^ at the backf is a well-executed drop of thdt and flowers : on the front of the
186 CUBIOSFTIES OF LOKDOK.
oi^E^-gallery are bold dusters of mnsioAl trophies and garland of flowers, with birds
and firvdt ; nd the royal arm% with a mantle seroU, about ten feet long, form a per-
ibrated screen on the top of the gallery. All the carded work is by W. Qibbs Borers.
The organ was built by Hill, on the German plan, and contains two manuals and a
pedal organ. Brand, who compiled the Po^pular Antiquities, and was Secretary to the
Society of Antiquaries, was Rector of St Mary-at-Hill from 1789 till his death m
1806 : he is buried in the ChanoeL Dr. Young, author of IfigU Tkou^hU, was
married here.
St. Mast "Ma&daushts, Bermondsey, was originally founded by the monks of Ber-
mondsey, it is supposed, early in the reign of Edwsjrd III.; but taken down in 1680, when
the present church was built upon the same site : in 1830, the west front was remodeUed,
the tower repaired, and the large pointed window restored. Among the oommunion
plate is an ancient silver salver, supposed to have belonged to the Abbey of Bermond-
sey : in the centre, a knight in plate armour is kneeling to a female, about to place a
hdmet on his head, at the g^te of a castle or fortifted town : from the ftwhion of the
armour and the form of the helmet, this relic is referred to the age of Edward II.
In the church is a monument to Dr. Joseph Watson, more than thirty-seven years
teacher to the first public institution in this country for the education of the deaf and
dumb, established in this parish, 1792. In the churchyard is buried Mrs. S. Utton,
who was tapped twenty-five times for dropsy, and had 157 gallons of water taken from
her; also Mrs. 8. Wood, taj^^ied ninety-seven times, water 461 gallons i and the
husband of the latter, who died 1837, aged 108 years !
The reg^isters commenced in 1538, have been continued with great exactness, and
with very few interruptions up to the present time : some of the entries are very
eccentric
St. Mabt Magdalen, Old Fish-street, in Castle-Baynard Ward, was rebuilt by
Wren, after the Great Fire, and contains a small brass tablet, date 1586, with the
figure of a man, and the fellowing lines in black letter :
" In God the Lord put all yonr trastc,
Repente your lormsr wicked woks,
Elizabetbe oar Qaeen moste Juste
Bleu her, 0 Lord, in all her dales;
So Lord encrease good oonneelerSj
And preachers of his holie worde
XisUke all paplstes deslers
O Lord, eat them off with thr swordi^
How small soermr the gift shall bo
Thank God Ibr him who gave It thee,
ni penie loaves to III poor foolkes
Geve every Sabbath day for aye."
This chnrch serves as well fer the parish of St. Qregory-by-St. Pftul's. St. Maiy
Magdalen, Milk-street, was on the site of the City of London Schools.
St. Mabt "M^aqdaixs, Munster-square, Regent's Park, was designed by R. C.
Carpenter, and consists of a Nave with south aisle, large and lofty Chancel, and tower;
style, Geometric, of the fourteenth century. The Nave and Aisle have massive open
gabled roofs, of Baltic fir timber. The Chancel roof is arched with timber, boarded
and panelled. The east window of the Chancel, which is of seven lights, is filled with
stained glass, at a cost of 400^ by Hardroan of Birmingham, and was one of the last
works upon which Pug^n was engaged. The lower part of the Chancel is adorned by
richly carved arcades, with shafts of St. Ann's marble, and panels in the spandrels.
The arcades and the Chancel roof are highly enriched with colour and gilding, executed
by Craoe. The arcade on the south side of tbe Chancel is varied, to form sedilia for
the officiating clergymen, and the floor is raised three steps above that of the Nave, and
is separated fix>m it by a stone septum. The west window of the Nave, a fine one, of
five lights, has been filled with stained glass, in memory of the architect. In the
service, the Eucharistic vestments are used daily, and incense at high celebration on
Sundays.
St. Mast's Mattblov, Whitechapel, at the eastern end of High-street, was origi-
nally a chapel-of-ease to Stebenhith, or Stepney ; its second name being from Maffel^
CHUBCHE8 AJW CEAPELS. 187
in Rt^xeew, a woman recently deliyered of a son. Stow traces the name to the wives
of the poriflih having dain out of hand a certain Frenchmim who had mnrdered and
plondered a devout widow, hy whom he had been cherished and brought up of ahons
This occurred in 1428, the sixth of King Henry VI. ; but Stow also finds the name as
early as the twenty-first of Richard II. The old church was taken down in 1678,
and rebiult nearly as at present : it has a gas-lit dock-dial.
Ths Pnish Register xveords that Btchard Brandon was buried in the eborohywd, June 24^ 1640$
and a manfatal note (not In the liand of the Begistrar, bnt bearing' the mark of antiqtdty). atatea :
"This B. Brandon ia aappoaed to have cut off the head of CharleBl." He was assisted hj nis man
Balph Jones, a ragnum in ttoaemairy-lane ; and a tract in the British Mnsenm, entitled, ** The Confea-
iioa of Biehard Rrandon, the Hangman, npon his Deathbed, concerning the Beheading of His late
3iaiest7,'* printed in 1640, relates that the night after the execution he returned home to his wife, living
in Kosemary-lane, and gave her the money ho had reodved, 901. ; that about three days before he dlecL
lie Iw speechless. ** For the burial whereof, great ftor* qf voinn wef —Hi Ay fh^iheriffqf the CUy qf
London, and a great multitude of people stood waiting to see his corpse carried to the churchyard, soma
erjinff oot^ ' uang mm, rogue I ' ' isury mm m tne dungmu r otbers pressmg upon him, saving thegr
woula quarter him for executing the Ung, insomuch that the churchwardens and masters of ue parish
were lain to come for the suppression of them ; and with great difficulty he was itib last earned to
Whitecbapel churchyard.'* Siee Ellis's LdUn on Engliih Si^org, voL ill. second series s and the IWol
^ CkarUa J,^oLxxjL Fttmi^ LOtxay,
St. Mast's, Newington-butts, was bnilt in l791-<^3 by Hnrlbatt, in pkce of a
smaller chnrch. It contains a monmnent with statues to Sir Hngh Brawne, buried
in the old church, 1614^ and who " for the space of twenty-two years was the whole
ornament of the parish." Here, too, is a tablet to Br. Fothergill ; and to Captain M.
Wagbom, one of the few persons who escaped from the sinking of the Boyal Q^orge^
in 1782. The parsonage-house was originally built of wood, and surrounded by a
moat, now filled up. In this parish was a small water-course called the river 'Hgris^
part of Cnut's trendi ; and a parishioner who died at the age of 109 years, early in the
present century, remembered when boats came up as fiir as the churdi at Newington.
In the diuxch is burled Mr. Sergeant Davy (d. 1860). He was originally a chemist at Exeter : and
a aherifTa officer coming to serve on him a process from tte Court of Common Pleas, he dvilly asked
him to drink ; whUe the man was drinking, Davy contrived to heat a poker, and then told the bailiff
that If he did not ei^ tiie writ which was of sheepskin and as jrood as mutton, he should swallow the
poker I The man pre&rred toe parchment; but the Court of Common Pleas, not then accustomed to
jf r. Davy's jokes, sent for him to Westminster Hall, and for contempt of their procesa, oommitted him
to the Fleet Prison. From this drcumstance, and some unfortunate man whom he met there, he ac-
quired a taste for the law ; and on his discharge he applied himself to the study of it in earnest, was
ealled to thebar,madeasergeant»andwaafor a long time in good praotice.— See Manning and Bray's
H%dor$ <^8mr«jf»
St. Maby'b,. FbdcUngton, on the Green, was rebuilt in 1788-91 ; and its churchyards
are remarkable as the burial-place of several eminent artists; among whom are,
Bnshnell, the sculptor of the statues on Temple Bar; Barrett, the landscape-painter ;
Banks and NoUekens, the sculptors; Yivares, Hall, and Schiavonetti, the engravers:
Caleb Whitefoord (see Qoldsmith's BeicUictHon) ; Mrs. Siddoiis, the great actress;
Collins^ the painter ; and Haydon, historical painter. Hogarth was married in this
church to the daughter of Sir James Thomhill, March 23, 1729.
St. Mabt's, Rotherhithe, dose to the shaft of the Thames Tunnel, was rebuilt ia
1736-39, upon the site of the old church, which had stood above 400 years. This new
church has a lofty spire : in the vestry-room is a portnut of King Charles I., in his
robes, kneeling at an altar, and holding a crown of thorns, the composition resem-
bling the frontispieoe to the JSikon BatUike, In the churchyard is buried Prince Lee
Boo, a native of the Pellew Islands, d. Doc. 29, 1784, set. 20; over his remains a
monument has been erected by the East India Company, in testimony of his father's
humane and kind treatment d the crew of the Antelope, wrecked off Goo-roo-raa, one
of the Pellew Islands, on the night of August 9, 1783.
St. Mast's Sokebsst (Summer's hith, or wharf), was destroyed in the Great
Fire of 1666, and rebuilt by Wren in 1685 : it has a tower, with pedestals and urns
and obelisks upon the summit, 120 feet high ; and the keystones of the arches are
sculptured with grotesque heads.
St. .Mast's, &icke Newington (2| miles north from London), in the patronage of
the Pjrebendary of Kewington, in St. Paul's Cathedral, was repaired, or *' rather new
188 CURIOSITIES OF LONDON.
bnilded " {Stow), in 1663, of hewn stones, flint, and pebbles, bnt bas been much
modernized. It has a square embattled tower, about 60 feet bigb, with six bells,
with an additional bell in a wooden cupola, and a dock made 1728. The chapel, and
a portion of the body of the church, under two other roofs, formed the whole of the
;iucient structure. The painted altar- window represents the Virgin Mary and the
Purification, the Birth and Preaching of St. John the Baptist, and the arms of Queen
Elizabeth ; and in the Chancel windows are the arms of the Drapers' Company and
the City of London. Among the communion-plate is a large silyer offertory alms-dish.
In the Chancel is an elegant coloured alabaster monument to John Dudley, Esq., and
his widow, afterwards married to Thomas Sutton, Esq., founder of Charterhouse :
the writer of the long Latin inscription was rewarded with 10«., according to the roll
of Mr. Dudley's funeral expenses : and the tomb was restored in 1808 by subscription
of grateful Carthusians. Behind the church is Queen Elizabeth's Walk, a grove of
tall trees ; and at Newington Qreen is King Harry's Walk. At Stoke Newington
lived many years Mrs. Barbauld, the amiable educationist, who taught Lord Denman
when a boy the art of declamation ; and Mr. Barbauld, her husband, was for four
years morning preacher to a Unitarian congregation at Newington-gpreen.
St< MABY-LB-STBAin>, erected on the site of a very ancient church, St. Ursula of
the Strand, and nearly upon the ate of the old Maypole, was the first built (1714-17) of
Queen Anne's Fifty Churches, but was to our day called " the New Church." It was
not consecrated till Jan. 1, 1723. Qibbs, the architect, was desired by the Commis-
sioners " to beautify it," on account of its public situation : hence it is overloaded with
ornament. It was originally to have had only a small bell-tower at the west end,
changed to a steeple, which therefore appears to stand on the roof; it consists of three
receding stories, surmounted by a vane : when it was last repaired, at an expense of
4t7l. lOf ., the scaffolding cost 302. The exterior of the body is of two stories, lonio
below, the lower wall " solid, to keep out noises firom the street ;" and Composite above,
surmounted by a balustrade and urns : during the procession to proclaim Peace, in
1802, one of these urns was acddentally pushed down on the crowd below, when three
persons were killed, and several others much hurt. The west end has a semicircular
Ionic portico, and occupies the Maypole site. The interior is grand, but too florid,
with Corinthian and Composite pilasters, ceiling crowded with ornaments, and the
semicircular altar-part, with the triangular symbol of the Trinity glorified, and
cherubim, &c. The windows are hung with crimson drapery, and in the side inter-
columniations are puntings of the Aunundation and the Passion, by Brown. The old
church was "next beyond Arundell House, on the street side," and was *' called of
the Nativitie of our Lady (St. Mary), and the Innocents of the Strand*' (Siaw,)
Seymour states, that its site became part of the garden of Somerset House, and that
when the Protector pulled down this old church, he promised to build a new one for
the parishioners, but death prevented his fulfilling that engagement. The Rev. Joshua
Benham was rector of St. Mary-le>Strand; he wrote a brief Sutory of the Church of
St, Dunatan'S'in-the' West.
St. Mast's, Windham-plaoe, Marylebone, was designed by Sir Bobert Smirke^
B.A., and consecrated Jan. 7, 1824^ when the Rev. T. Frognall Dibdin, D.D., was
instituted rector. This church has a large painted east window, of the Ascension,
said to have cost 250 guineas. The circular tower and cupola, 185 feet high, are
picturesquely effective.
St. Maby's Woolnotf, one of the most striking and original churches in the
metropolis, is between the western ends of Lombard-street and King William-strcct.
This has been the site of a Christian church from a very early period, and previously
of a pagan temple. The church was rebuilt early in the fifteenth century, much in-
jured by the Great Fire, and repaired by Wren in the following year; to this Alderman
Sir R. Viner, living in Lombard-street, contributed liberally, to commemorate which,
says Stow, "a number of vine* were spread over that part of the church which &oed
his house." In 1716, the church, as we now see it, was rebuilt by Hawksmoor : the
west front, which has an elongated tower, like two towers united, has no prototype in
CnUBCEES AND CHAPELS, 189
Kngland ; but its details are so heavy as to Indicate rather a fortress and prison than a
church. The interior, on the model of a Roman atrium, is nearly sqnare : it has twelyef
Corinthian oolnmns, admirably arrange and is profusely ornamented with panels and
carved mouldings. It contains an Organ built by Father Schmidt, in 1681. Here ia
a tablet to the Rev. John Newton, the friend of Cowper, and Rector of this church for
twenty-eight years: it bears this inscription, written by himself:
*' John Newton, clerk, once an infidel and liberfcine, a servant of slaves in AMca, was, by the rich
HHTcy of oar Lord and Saviour Jesus Christ, preserved, restored, pardoned, and appointed to preach
tfau faithJie had lung laboured to destroy."
" I remember, when a lad of about fifteen, being taken by my uncle to hear the well-known Mr. Newton
ftbe friend of Cowper the poet) preach his wife's funeral sermon in the church of St. Mary's Woolnoth,
ill Lombard-street. >'ewton was then well stricken in years, with a tremulous voice, and in the cos-
tume of the fbll-bottomed wig of the day. Re had, and always had, the entire possession of the ear of
bis congreffation. Re spoke at first feebly and leisurely, but as he warmed, his ideas and his periods
K^med mntually to enlarge : the tears trickled down his cheeks, and his action and expression were at
tiinea quite out of the ordinary coarse of things. It was as the ' mens agi^ant molem et magno se
corpore miacmw.* In iact, the preacher was one with his diaeowm. To this day I have not fori>otten his
text, Hab. iii. 17-18 : ' Although the fie-^ee shall not blossom, neither shall fhiit be in the vines; the
laboar of the olive shall fail, and the fields shall yield no meat; the flock shall be cut off from the fold,
and there ahall be no herd in the stalls; yet I will r^oice in Uie Lord, I will ioy in the God of my
aalvation.' Newton always preached extemporaneous."— Dr. Dibdin's BendiMeencf o/ a LUtjtv
2«/«,voLLp.l6a.
The origin of Woolnoth is uncertain ; bat is attributed to the beam for weighing wool,
which stood in the churchyard of St. Mary's Woolchurch, in the Stocks Market, on the
nte of the Mansion-house : this church was burnt in 1666, and the parish is now united
to St. Mary's Woobioth.
St. Mary's Woolnoth was saved tmrn destruction in 1863, although it had been some time priced for
■Je. At a vestry meeting, the Lord Mayor (Alderman Rose) as a parishioner by his tenancy of the
Mansion Roose, ably supported the opposition to the " amalgamation" scheme, and an amcnclmpnt
r^ecting it was carried unanimously. In the Report of the Ecclesiological Society, the committee
Koordea that the parishioners had succeesfhlly resisted a scheme put forward under the ou!«pices
of the Bishop of London's Act for the demolition of the remarkable chorch of St. Mary Woolnoth
(Hawksmoor's ehtf-tTcewre), which it was proposed to destroy for the convenience of the General
Potft Office."
St. Matthew's, Oakeley-crescent, City-road, built by G. G. Scott, in 1848, in the
Early English style, has an ornamented four-storied tower and spire^ eastern lancet
windows, filled with stained glass, and other meritorious details ; a picturesque stone
porch was added July, 1866.
St. Matthias, Stoke-Newington, a Gothic church, Butterfield, architect; seats,
all free. Incense and the Eucharistic vestments are used ; and all expenses are paid
from the weekly offertory, except a small endowment for the incumbent.
St. Matthew's, Bethnal-Green, built in 1740, has at the west end a low square
tower, with a large stone vase at oich angle. A second church. Si. John^s, was built
b)' Sir John Soane, and much resembles the Grecian church of the Holy Trinity,
Regent's Park. In 1839, there were only these two churches for a population of
80,000, and schools ibr about 1000 children. I'here were next built in the parish ten
churches : St. Matthew's, St. John's, St. Peter's, St. Andrew's, St. Philip's, St. James
the I.<ess, St. James the Great, St. Bartholomew's, St. Judo's ; and St. Simon Zelotcs;
the latter at the sole expense of Mr. W. Cotton. These churches owe their origin to
the exertions of Bishop Blomfield ; there have been added three churches since the
accession of Bishop Tait in 1856. St. Matthew's church, except the walls, was burnt
on the night of I>ec. 18, 1859, during a hard frost ; the water froze as it was poured on
the burning ruins. It was rebuilt by a rate levied on the parish. The apse ia very
handsomely coloured, and has a carved stone reredos, with cross, and scenes from the
life of Christ. There is a good east-end window of the Crucifixion ; the stone pulpit
and font are finely, curved. There is a curious old staff used by the beadle, the head of
wliich (in silver gilt) presents the legend of the Blind Beggar of Bethnal Green and his
daughter, as in ^ old ballad ; the date 1669. — Mackeson's Churches.
St. Matthew's, Brixton, at the junction of the Tulse-hill and Brixton-hill roads, is
of Grecian Doric design, by Pord'en, and was consecrated in 1824 : it has a noble por-
tico, resembling the pronaos of a Grecian temple ; at the east end is a tower surmounted
190 CTTBJOSITTES OF LONDON,
with an octagonal terople, irom that of Cyrrhestes, at Athena. In the chuzchyatd is s
ooBtly manaoleum of Grecian deaign, upwards of 25 feet high.
St. Michael aitd all Avoxls, Paal-street, Finabnry, is bnilt of yellow brick ;
style. First and Second Pointed ; architect, J. Brook ; opened, 1865. The interior, de-
signed for " aesthetic service/' is of great width, height, and length ; and " the deep
Chancel, narrower than the Nave, and raised several steps, gives importance to the
akilfblly-arranged grouping of priests and choristers, banners and crotises, miUinefj and
flowers, and saves even the processions from appearing mean." {Companion to the
Almanack, 1866.) It will acoommodate nearly 1000 persons ; cost of nte, 47002.,
of which one gentleman contributed 3000/. ; the building cost 7500/., towards which
another (or the same) anonymous donor gfave 6000/. The bare walls look cheerleai^ bnt
the architect designed them to be covered with paintings and other decorations. And
apart from its esthetic character, the interior is a success ; the nave columns scarcely
intercept the sight, and the acoustic principles seem good — ^you hear the preacher and
reader well from very different parts of the church, and the tones of the organ pro-
duce no awkward reverberation.
St. Miohasl'b Babsibhaw (haugh, or hall, of the Basing family), Basinghall-
Btreet> was originally founded about 1140, and rebuilt in 1460 ; here was interred Sir
John Qresham, uncle to Sir Thomas Gresham, and Lord Mayor in 1547 : at his funeral,
on a fast-day, a fish dinner was provided for all comers :
" He was buried with a standard and pennon of anna, and a coat of armoor of damask (Daroascos
steel), and four pennons of arms ; besides a helmet, a tarffel, and a sword, mantles and the creot, a goodly
hearse of wax, ten dozen of pensils, and twelve dosou ot escntcheons. He had fonr dozoi of great staff
torches, and a dozen of crreat long torches. The chnrch and street were all hung with black, and arms
in great store ; and on uie morrow there goodly masses were sang." — Stow.
The old church was destroyed in the Great ilre, and rebuilt by Wren in 1676-79. It
contains a beautifully sculptured monument to Dr. T. Wharton, who did so much to
stay the Great Plague of 1665 ; and here rests Alderman Eirkman, sheriff-elect in 1780,
who died, at the age of S9, of a oold taken in aiding to suppress the Riots.
St. Michael's, in Chester-square, Pimlico, is a picturesque church in the Decorated
style of the fourteenth century, and has a tower and spire rising from the ground at
the west end, 150 feet high ; Cundy, architect, 1844 ; the details are very characteristda
St. Miohabl'b, ComhiU, was destroyed by the Great Fire, except the great tower,
which contained a celebrated set of ten bells : the body was first rebuilt by Wren, and
fifty years later (1729) the tower itself, which is an imitation of the splendid <^pel
tower of Magdalen College, Oxford, buUt in the fifteenth century, and 145 feet high;
but St. Michael's is only ISO : it has a set of twelve bells. The site is presumed to
have been occupied by a church since the Saxon dynasty ; it had a cloister and pulpit
cross. Of the old steeple, destroyed in 1421, a pen-and-mk drawing upon vellum is
preserved on the fly-leaf of a vellum vestry-book (temp, Henry V.) belonging to the
parish. In the old church and churchyard were buried Robert Fabyan, the chronicler
and sheriff; and the father and grandfather of John Stow, the antiquary. Tn the pre-
sent church was buried Philip Nye, with " the thanksgiving beard," in 1672 ; Nye was
«nrate of St. Michaers from 1620 to 1633. The ar^itect, in rebuilding the tower,
adhered to the Gothic style, and though the details are poor, the general outline is
noble and effective. It was long shut in, but some of the houses which intervened
between the north side of the tower and Comhill being cleared away, to obtain an
entrance there to the chnrch, a porch has been built, and two stages of the tower itself
have been repaired and altered, windows with tracery, and a new circular window with
wheel tracery immediately above the porch, having been inserted. The six shafts in
the jambs of the principal doorway are of red polished granite.
The sculpture in the gable of the doorway represents Our Lord in the act of benedic-
tion. In the tympanum below is a group representiug Michael disputing with Satan
about the body of Moses. The other carving consists of medallions of angels, bosses of
foliuge, &c. Architects, Scott and Mason. The church has been entirely refitted with
carvings executed by Rogers, under the direction of Scott and Williams, architects.
The pulpit is hcxatronal, on a dwarf column of Portland stone, with the hand-rail supported by
onuinenial brass-work. On the angles are twisted piUats^ each vrith various designs, and sapportiug
CHUECHE8 AND 0EAPEL8. 191
taanietwithlinaelMsoftliehawthoni. Tbe panda hare eadi a different diaper pattern, with boldly
orred ijmboli of the four ETangelists in roimaels. The readingnleek has two double ardiei and ten
pjlastera. The centre pillars are roond, resting on square bases. On each of the angles are heads of
tbe drason, in reference to the proweaa of the patron Saint. The perforated IMezea in the screena
bdilnd UM choir aeata in the chancel are of fbliated scroll-work, jnterqmrsed with sacred fhdts and
ODblematical flower*— the passion-flower, trefoil, norocgranate, Ul^flga, and oliTes.
Sixteen paaeb have been carred for the clianeM-gates : Moses in tae Balmslies; the Tablets of the
Lew, with the sword of Jnstiee; the Star of Bethlehem; the Gonpel of Peaces oTer which is a dove;
tike Braxen Serpent in the Wilderness; the Seven-branch Golden Candlestidc; emblems of the Sacri^
■eat (wlieat and grapes): chalioe and paten. Solomon's Qlory, represented l^ three crowns rising
<nt of three ftdl-biown lUiee; the Crown of Victory: emblems of the passion-flower; the Besorrection,
cmMffliBtiied by a butterfly issuing firom a chrysalis; Light out of Darkness, the Snowdrop; Caith,
Hope^ and ChaxHy ; the Trinity in unity.
The fliat aeat south of the chancel is a representation of the Agony in the Garden. The cup Is en-
doMd fai flbliage at the top, and at the back is a branch of olives copied ttmn. one gathered by E. T.
Bofcn, vifie<miaQl of Cain. Pakatine, in the oarden of Gethsemanet axooud the outer edge of this
beneb-end are the worda, " Not my will, but Thme be done."
The fhmts and backs of the seats have a double row of variously enriched panellinff, 180 in nnmber.
the apper row heltag alternately relieved by sprigs or branches of sacred flowers bound with labels, ana
iMring sDitahle inacripticoa in raised letters, such as '* In the midst of judgement He remembers
am;" "Look upon the rainbow, and praise Him," Ac &c.
At the disnoel coid of the centre aisle there are seven seats set uart for spedal puxpoeea. On the
lirirt is the royal pew, with an enriched double shield surmounted oy the crown, V.K., and the motto
*Diem gl mo» dnU ;" her Midesty's monogram, Victoria, in the form of a Greek cross, enclosed in foli-
age and flowers, the rose* thistle, and shamrock. The Diocesan pew has ecclesiastical shield with
croziers, mitre, and the crossed swords representing the martyrdom of St. Paul ; the Corporation pew,
the Gty arms snd representation of St George, Ac. ; the pew of the Wonhipful Companr of Drapers, en-
riched shield, date, and motto of the company, " Unto God only be honour and fflory, surmountea by
the triple crown issnhsg from clouds, with njn of light: on the inside are a triple bnnch of liUea, the
emblem of the Virgin, ttie patronesa of the Cwnpany, the stiield of Fitzalwyn, the &rst mayor of London,
(hi the pew of the Merahant Tailors' Company are the shield, Ac of the Company, and in one part is
iBtrodnoed sn illustration of a text from St Augustine's 10th chapter of St John,— God is all to thee : if
them be hungry, He ia bread: if thou be thirsty, He is water: if hi darkness. He is light: and, if
aaked, He is a robe of immortality." In this instance Mr. Bogers has flgured the star of light the
ivetd, chaHoe^ and the rol)ei in a manner which describes the text Next are the pews of the Cloth-
workers' Company, and the Bector's pew ; on the former the teasel is conspicuous, and on the latter the
>Miogram of the Bev. T. W. Wrench, aurmounted by a branch of olives. All the bench-ends in this
tisle have a shield, emblazoned on the outside, enclosed by Greek foliage : on the hiside are fruits and
flowen, sudi as the goordof Jonah, Syrian dutea, nut fruit, oak and acorns, chestnuts, wheat ears,
BQlboTT, pine fruit, the Bose of Sharon, oUvee, figs, &c. Amongst the carvinga on the benches for
the north aisle, is a female flgure of Charitv, seated m an eccleaiasncal chair, supported by pelicana : she
■ fcedtng and protecting three children, tne idea from an early sculpture m Vslterra marble. On other
aeata are the pelican in ner piety: the fall of man represented by the serpent coiling round the tot'
ndden tree. On the back is the lily of the valley. The sage-plant of Paleatine is combined with the
^mroee of England, the stork of the wilderness, Ac. On some of these are the sage-phmt of the Bast,
OMnbined with a branch of oak; the ivy and ^e anemone, and the common flowers of the Eaat ; a
doiter of pomegranatea and bell-flowers, Aaron's rod, a triple branch of lily rising out of a bulbous root,
^ch is given m the form of a heart. On the device of a Latin cross is suspenaed the passion-flower ;
ue carvins of the scape-goat wandering in the wilderness, with the mark of the Bm Priest on his
forehead: In the bttokground is forked lightning, indicating the wrath of God. On the back of this
i^dard is a crown of thorns.—" On mm was laid the inlquiU of us all." In the design of these
Bomeroas earvinga Mr. Bogera haa been aasisted by his son, Mr. W. H. Bogers.— (iSet the descriptive
Pu&phlet, by Mr. Rogers.)
"The colouriDg of the walls and ceiling of the church, the altar of alabaster and
■ttrble, and the stained glass in the windows^ are all executed with great ridiness.
St. Michixi.'8, Crooiked-lane, was of andent fonndation, before the year 1304. In
1336, John Loveken^ foor tames Lord Mayor, rebuilt the church, which received seyeral
ad^tioDs and benefactions from Sir Williani Walworth, Lord Mayor in 1874^ and for-
merly servant to Loveken. St. Michael's was a general burial-place of stockfish-
inongen; Loveken and Walworth rested here. The church was destroyed in the
^'fcst Fire, but rebuilt by Wren in 1687; it had a PortUnd stone tower, 100 feet high,
uid a picturesque steeple, with dock, vane, and cross. This handsome church was
^ea down in 1831, in forming the Kew London Bridge approaches. Crooked-lane,
**» called of tbe crooked windings thereof/' was then in part taken down; it was
^^us for its bird-cage and fishing-tackle shops.
St. Michaxl's Patsbvosteb Botai, Thames-street, is partly named from its neigh-
^fhoed to the Tower Royal, wherein our sovereigns, as early as King Stephen, re-
dded. Thf churcb was rebuilt by the munificent Whittington, who was himself buried
m it, under a marble tomb with banners, but his remains were twice disturbed : once
^y M incumbent, in the reign of Henry VI., who fancied that money was buried with
^1 and neit by the parishioners, in the reign of Mary, to rewrap the body in
^ of whidi it had been despoiled on the former occasion (Godwin's Ckmrekeg of
192 CUEI08ITIE8 OF LOIWOK
London). Whittiogton's chnrch was destroyed by the Oreat Fire, but rebuilt by
Wren, and has a somewhat pictoresqne steeple. The interior has a beautiful altar-
picture, by Hilton, B.A., of Mary Magdalen anointing the feet of Christ : this fine
work was presented by the Directors of the British Institution in 1820. There was
long no memorial to Wbittington in the present church,, until the Rector contributed a
handsome painted window. The rights and profits of the old chnrch Whittington
bestowed on a College and almshouses close by, the site of which is now occupied by
the Mercers' Company's School.
St. Michael's, Queenhithe, destroyed in the Qreat Fire, was rebuilt by Wren in
1677 : it is chiefly remarkable for its spire, 135 feet high, with a gilt vane in the form
of a ship in full sail, the hull of which will contain a bushel of grain — referring to tlie
former traffic in com at the Hithe.
Bt. Michael's, Wood-street, Cheapside, stands at the comer of Huggin-lane, named
from a resident there about the time of Edward I., and known as " Hugan in the
lane." The old church was destroyed by the Great Fire, and the present edifice
completed in its place by Wren, in 1675 : it is of very unecclesiastical design, but the
Wood-street front is well-proportioned Italian. The head of James IV. of Scotland,
slain at Flodden field, Sept. 9, 1518, is said by Stow to have been buried here ; the
body was conveyed, after the battle, to London, and thence to the monastery of Sheen,
in Surrey, where it was seen by Stow, lapped in lead, but thrown into a waste room.
"Some workmen, for their foolish pleasure, hewed off his head, which Launcelot
Toung, master-glazier to his Majesty, brought to bis house in Wood-street, where he
kept it for a time ; but at length gave it to the sexton to bury amongst other bones,"
&c. This statement is contradicted by the Scottish historians ; but Weever is positive
that Sheen was the place of James's burial.
St. Mildbed's, Bread-street, destroyed in the Qreat Fire, and rebuilt by Wren,
1677-83, is remarkable for being roofed by a large and highly enriched cupola ; and has
a pulpit and sounding-board and altar-piece exquisitely carved in the style of Gibbons.
St. Miidbsd's, Poultry, was destroyed by the Great Fire, and rebuilt by Wren;
when was united with it the parish of St. Mary Colechurch, the church of which stood
at the south end of the Old Jewry ; its chaplain was " Peter of Colechurch," who in
part built old London Bridge. St. Mildred's has a tower 75 feet high, siumountod by
a gilt ship in Ml saiL In the former church was buried Thomas Tusser, who wrote
the Points of Sushandrie, and was by turns chorister, flEirmer, and singing-master.
St. Nicholas Cole Abbey, Fbh-street-hill, destroyed by the Great Fire, and re-
built by Wren in 1677, has a tasteless steeple, 135 feet high, but some fine interior
carvings ; the parish register-books contain a list of persons, with their ages, whom
King James II. at his coronation touched for the cure of the Evil.
St. Olaye, Hart-street, escaped the Great Fire : it is of Norman, Early English,
Decorated, and Perpendicular work ; the foundation and walls are of rubble, and the
upper part brick. There does not exist any account of its erection ; and the first men-
tion of its Rector, William de Samford, who held that office prior to 1319, and whose
salary was 2^ marks per annum, refers to an earlier structure than the present SL
01ave's> It has an interesting interior, with clustered columns and pointed arches and
windows, and the ceilings of the aisles powdered with stars. This church is often
mentioned in the Diary of Samuel Pepys, Secretary to the Navy (temp, Charles II.
and James II.), who lived in a bouse b^onging to the Navy Office, in Seetbing-lane,
and resided subsequently in Hart-street : he was buried in St. Olave's at nine at night,
'' in a vault of his own makeing, by his wife and brother," " by y* Communion Table,"
June 4, 1703 ; and there is a monument to his wife in the chancel. There are also
several figure tombs and brasses ; and a marble figure of Sir Andrew Riccard (d. 1672),
who bequeathed the advowson of the living to the parish. There is likewise a monu-
ment to John Orgone and EUyne his wife, with a quaint inscription, which is some-
times found in Latin :—
CEUBCHE8 AND CHAPELS. 198
"As I was fo 1)6 ye.
As I am you shall be.
That I gave that I have.
That I spent that 1 had.
Thus I ende all my cost.
That I left that 1 Icete.— 1584?*
8t. Olave's was repaired in 1863 ; one of the towers at the west end of the south aisle,
hitherto bricked np, has been thrown into the church, and now forms a baptistiy ; the
roof, which is of oak, has been varnished, and the bosses, &c., gilt. A new reredos
has been erected, irom a design of Q. G. Scott; it is composed of Caen stone, and has
fire panels of alabaster. In the churchyard are interred a number of victims to the
Great Plague : the first entry in the register is dated July 24, 1665 : " Mary, daughter of
William Kamsay, one of the Drapers' Almsmen ;*' and there is a tradition that the pesti-
lence iirat appeared in the Drapers' Almshouses, Cooper's-row, in this parish. Here is
a peal of six bells, five made by Anthony Bartlet, in 1662; the sixth by James
Bfirtlet. in 1694.
St. Olatx's, Jewry, a brick church, rebuilt by Wren, in 1768-76, upon the site of
the old church, destroyed in the Gkeat Fire, is alone remarkable for containing the
remains of Alderman Boydell, the eminent engraver and priutseller, who expended a
large fortune in founding the English School of Historic Painting ; he was Lord Mayor
in 1790 (d. 1804); and on the north wall of the church is a tablet to his memory,
sorniomited by his bust.
St. OiiATe's, Tooley-street, Southwark, in Bridge Ward Without, was designed in
1737-39, by Flitcroft, a pupil of Kent ; the funds being mostly advanced by a French
emigrant, on an anniuty for his life ; and he dying soon after, it became a saying that
the Organ had cost more than the church : it had a richly* decorated interior, and a fine
peal of bells. The interior was burnt almost to the walls on August 19, 1843 ; when
also was destroyed Watson'sTelegraphicTower, originally a shot manu&ctory. St. Olave's
Church has since been handsomely restored. The fbrmer church was of the fourteenth
century, with a low square tower and bell-house. The first church was certainly
founded prior to the Norman Conquest, from its dedication to St. Olave, or Olafi^, King
of Norway, who, with Ethelred. in 1008, destroyed the bridge at London, then occupied
by the Danes. The present church is nearly on the site of this exploit ; for the first
bridge was somewhat eastward of the old bridge, taken down after the building of the
present bridge. St. Olave has been corrupted into St. Oley and Tooley-street.
St. Pavcsas-ik-the-Fields, one of the oldest churches in Middlesex, is situated
on the north side of the road leading from King^s Cross to Kentish Town. Norden, in
his Speculum Britannia, describes it, in 1593, as standing *' all alone, utterly forsaken,
old and wether-beten ;" "yet about this structure have bin manie buildings, now
decaied, leaving poore Pancras without companie or comfort." St. Pancras is a pre-
bendal manor, and was granted by Ethelbert to St. Paul's Cathedral about 603. It was
a parish before the Conquest. Its ancient church, which Stukeley says occupied the
site of a Boman camp, was erected about 1180 ; it consisted of a nave and chancel,
built of stones and flints, and a low tower, with a bell-shaped roof. St. Pancras con-
tained* in 1261, only forty houses. Pftncras was corrupted to " Pancredge" in Queen
Elixabeth's time. In 1745 only three houses had been built near the church. In
1775 the population was not 600. It is now the most extensive parish in Middlesex,
being eighteen miles in circumference. The annual value of land (including the
houses built upon it, the railways, &c) is 3,798,5212.
*' Of late,'' says Strype, " those of the Boman Catholic reUgion have afiected to be
buried here, and it has been assigned as a reason that prayer and mass are said daily in
St. Peter's at Borne for their souls, as well as in a church defeated to St Pancras, in
the soath of France." In Windham's Diary, we find another explanation of the choice :
—'' While airing one day with Dr. Brocklesby, in passing and returning by St. Pancras
Cbmrch, he (Dr. Johnson) fell into prayer, and mentioned, upon Dr. Brocklesby inquiring
why the Catholics chose that spot for their burial-place, that some Catholics in Queen
EUsabeth's time had been burnt there." It is also understood that this church was the
last wbow bell tolled in England lor masSy and in which any rites of the Boman
o
194 CUBIOSITTES OF LONDON.
Catholic religion were celebrated before the Reformation. The crosses with " Reqaiescat
in Face," or the initials of those words, " R. I. P./' on the monuments and tombstones
are very frequent. At the beginning of the present century the French clergy were
buried here at the average rate of thirty a-year. There is said to have been in the
church a silver tomb, which waa talcen away at the time of the Commonwealth. The
edifice, reconstructed and enlarged by A. D. Gough, was reopened July 5, 1848 : the
style adopted was Anglo-Norman : the building was lengthened westward ; the old tower
Was removed, and a new one built on the south side; and to the west end waa added a
Norman porch, and a wheel-window in the gable above. In the progress of the works
were found Roman bricks, a small altar-stone. Early Norman capitals, an Early
English piscina, and Tudor brickwork. Under the old tower, which was then removed,
is said to have been privately interred, in a grave 14 foet deep, the body of Earl
Ferrers, executed at Tyburn, in 1760. The Chancel windows are filled with stained
glaas, by Gibbs^ as is also the western wheel-window. On the north wall, opposite
the baptistery, is the Early Tudor marble Purbeck memorial, supposed to have belonged
to the Gray family, of Gray's Inn ; the recesses for brasses removed, and ndther dates
nor arms remaining. On the south-east interior wall is the marble tablet, with palette
and pencils, to Samuel Cooper, the celebrated miniature-painter ; the arms are those of
Sir Edward Turner, Speaker of the House of Commons in the reign of Charles II., at
whose expense it is probable the monument was erected. The ancient oommunion-
plate of the church, date 1638, discovered in 1848, is now again in use.
lu the bailal-groand of Old St. Pancras are deposited scions of the noble fkmQies of Abergavenny,
Arundell, Bamewall, Calvert, Castlehaven, Clifford, Dillon, Fleming, Howard, Litchfield, Montagu, Rut-
land, Wald^raTe, Wharton, and other distinguished persons. Here lies Lady Barbara Belasyse, whose
fiithor was ^frandnephew of the Lord FsJconMrg who married Cromwell's daughter. Among the illus-
trious foreigners interred here are Count Hariang; Louis Charles, Count de Herville, Mareschalof
France ; Fmlip, Count de Montlosler, Lieutenant-General in the French army ; Angelus Frandscxis
Talaru de Chalmaret, Bishop of Coutances, in Normandy; Francois Claude Amour, Marquis de Bouill^ ;
Augustinns Benatus Ludovicus Le Mintier, Bishop and Count of Treguier : Alexandre Marquis de lire;
Louis Claude Bigot de 6t. Croix, dernier Ministre de Louis XVI. ; Louise d'Esparbes, de Luasan, Com-
tesse de Polastron, Dame de Palais do la Seine de France; Louis Andrtf Grimaldi d'Antibes des Princes
de Monaco, Evdque, et Comte de Noyon, Pair de France; Jean Francois de la Marche. Bishop of Pol
8t. Leon; Henri, Marquis de I'Ostanges, Grand Seneschsl do Queroy, and Field Marshal of France;
Baroness de Montalembert ; Pascal de Paoli, the Corsican patriot, kinsman of the Bonapartes, and as
such of the present Emperor of the French ; Pasqualino Philip St. Martin, C<»nte de ^ront, the in-
scription on whose tomb is — " A foreign land preserves his ashes with respect.**
Near the church door is a headstone to William Woollett, the engraver, and his widow ; it was
restored some years since. On the north side of the churchyard is an altar-tomb to William Godwin,
author of CtUeb WUliatiu, and his two wives, Mary Wolstoncroft Godwin and Mary Jane. Here, too,
is a headstone to John Walker, author of the Pronouncing Dictionary, Here, also, were buried
Abrahaq;^ Woodhead, reputed by some the author of The Whole IJutv of Man ; and near him his friend,
Obadiah Walker; Dr. Grebe, editor of the Sepiuagbat ; Jeremy Collier, who wrote against the immo-
rality of the stage in the time of Dryden; Lewis Theobald, the editor of Shakspcare: Lady Henrietta
Beard, daughter of an Earl Waldegrave, widow of Lord Edward Herbert, and wife of Beard, the
singer; 8. F. Ravenet, the engraver; Arthur Richard Dillon (of Lord Dillon's fiunily). Bishop of
Evreux, Archbishop of Narbonne, and President of the States of Longuodoc; the Chevalier D'Eon, &c.
And here rests Father Arthur O'Lciury, to whom Earl Moira erected a monument, which has been
repaired by public subscription.
St. Fancbas, near Enston-square, Euston-road, was built by Messrs. Inwood ; the
first stone being laid by the Duke of York, July 1, 1819. The cella, or body of the
church, is designed from the Erechtheium, dedicated to Minerva Polias and Ftodrosns,
at Athens; and the steeple, 168 feet high, is from the Athenian Tower of the Winds^
with a cross, in lieu of the Triton and wand, symbols of the wind, in the original.
The clock-dials are but 6^ feet in diameter, though at the height of 100 feet, and thei-e-
fore are much too small. The western front of the church has a fine portico of six
columns, with richly-sculptured voluted capitals ; beneath are three enriched doorways,
designed exactly from those of the Erechtheinm, and exquisite in detail. Towards the
east end are lateral porticoes, each supported by colossal statues of females, on a plinth,
in which are entrances to the catacombs beneath the church, to contain two thousand
coffins : each of the figures bears an ewer in one hand, and rests the other on an in-
verted torch, the emblem of death ; these figures are of terra-cotta (artificial stone),
formed in pieces, and cemented roimd cast-iron pillars, which in reality support the en*
tablatnre.
These figures are ill-executed, as may be seen by reference to the original Caryatides from the Pan-
drosium, in the Elgin Collection in the British Museum. The St. Pancras figures, and other artificial
•tone details for the church, were executed by Boaai, from Mesara. Inwood's designs, and cost MOCM.
CHUBCHE8 AND CHAPELS. 195
The eaatem firont varies ftt>m the andent Temple in having a semidrcalar termination,
round which, and along the side wulls^ are terra-cotta imitations of Greek tiles. The
interior is designed in conformity with the general plan of andent temples. The
pulpit and reading-desk are made from the tnmk of " the Fairlop Oak/' in Hiunanlt
Forest^ blown down in 1820. The cost of this classic edifice, much too close a resem-
blance to a Pagan temple to be appropriate ibr a Christian church, was 76,679Z. The
fine Organ, recently erected, was originally built by Oray and Davison for the New Music
Hall at Birmingham, and cost nearly 2000/.
St. Paul's, Avenue-road, St. John's-wood, is of red and black brick, in various
patterns, with stone window-frames and dressings ; the tiled entrance surmounted by
a wooden bell-cote. The roof is of high pitch and wide span, and is borne by the
wallsj, which have internal buttresses dividing them into five bays : there are, conse*
qoently, no fnllars to obstruct light or sound, but all is clear and open : architect,
S. S. Tenlon; completed 1859.
St. Pattl's, Camden New Town, St. Pancras, was built in 1848-9 (Ordish and
Johnson, architects) ; it is majestically situated, and consists of a nave and aisles, with
transits and chancel, and a tower and spire at the west end, 156 feet high ; the
windows are Decorated, the roo& have crosses and crestings, and the arrangement is
very pictmresque : this large church, for 1200 persons, cost less than 9000/.
St. Paitl'b, Covent Ghirden, was commenced for the ground-landlord, Francis Earl
of Bedford, by Inigo Jones, in 1681, but not finished till 1688; this being the kst of
that great ardiitecfs works. The Earl's commission is stated to have been for a chapel
" not mnch bigger than a bam ;" when Jones replied, " Well, then, you shall have the
handsomest bam in England." The truth of this anecdote has been questioned : for
the fabric cost 4500/., a large sum for those days. Pennant ascribes the church to the
second Dnke of Bedford, "whom," says Walpole (Letters, Sept. 18, 1791), '* he takes
for the first, and even then would not be right, for I conclude Earl Francis, who died
in 1641, was the builder, as the church was probably not erected after the Civil War
began." It was built of bride, with a portico at the east front, consisting of a pediment
eapported by four Tuscan columns of stone, and the roof was covered with tiles :
Hollar's print of it shows a small bell-turret surmounted with a cross. Within the
pecHment was placed a pendulum clock, made by Richard Harris in 1641, and stated
by an inscription in the vestry to be the first made.
If thitiiMcriptioii be eomct| it negativet the olaim of Hayghens to haviiur first applied the penda-
fann to the clock, aboat 1667; sithooch Jnttice Bergen, mechlmidan to the £mperor Kodolphos, who
reigned from 1676 to 1612, ia eaid to have attached (me to a clock need by TVcho Brah^S. Inigo Jonee,
the architeet of St Paul's, having been in Italr during the time of Oidileo, it is probable that he com-
mmiieated what he heard of the pendnlam to Harris. Horghena, howcTer, violently contested for the
priority ; while others claimed it for the yonnger Oalileo, who, ther asserted, had, at Ins fkther'a sngget-
tioD, afiplied the pendnlnm to adockin Yeiuoe which was flnished in 1610.— Adam Thomson's ISme
aad Timekeepen, pp. 67, 6S.
The odling of the interior was beautifully painted by E. Pierce, senior, a pupil of
Van Dyck. Inigo Jones was present at the consecration by Bishop Juxon, Sept. 27,
1638. In 1725 it is recorded that the Earl of Burlington gave 300Z. or 4002. to
restore the portico, which had been spoiled by some injudicious repairs. Its appearance
io the middle of last century is familiar from one of Hogarth's prints of " The Times
of the Day." In the picture of *' Morning " the fVont of this church Is represented.
The church dial points to a tew minutes before seven A.ic., and two very incougruous
gnrops appear — ^Miss Bridget Alworthy, with her foot-boy carrying her prayer<book,
going to the early service, while some dissipated rakes are staggering out of Tom
King's Cofibe-hoose, hard by.
In 1788, the walls of the church were cased with Portland stone ; and the rustic
gateways at the east front, which Jones had imitated in brick and plaster from Palladio^
were then reboilt with stone. In 1795» the interior of the church was burnt, the fine
old rooi^ the stained glass, and some pictures, indnding one of Charles I., by Lely,
being then destroyed ; but the portico and the walls remained, and the edifice was
restored by the elder Hardwick. The altar-piece has two figures of angels, sculptured
ly Binki^ RJL Among the eminent persons interred here are Samuel Butler, author
02
196 CURIOSITIES OF LONDON.
of Sttdibreu, whose friends oould not afford to bury lum in Westminster Abbey ; Si
Peter Lely, the painter, to whom there was a monnment, with a bust by Oibbone
destroyed with the old church ; Edward Eynaston, the famed actor of female parts
who played Juliet to Betterton's Romeo ; William Wycherley, the witty dramatist
who had " a true nobleman look ;** Susannah Centlivre, who wrote The Wonder ,
Grinling Gibbons, the sculptor and wood>carver ; Dr. John Armstrong, known by hii
didactic poem. The Art of Freseming Health; and Charles Macklin, the actor, at th(
supposed age of 107 : the two last in a vault under the Communion-table. Anothei
centenarian, named by Strype, is Marmaduke Conway, buried here 1717, at the age oJ
106 years and some months : he was in the service of the royal fiimily from the reign oJ
King James I. to his dying day, and was much liked by Charles I. for his skill in hawking,
Here, too, lie Michael Kelly, the musical composer ; and Estoourt, the founder of the
original Beef-steak Club. Woloot (Peter IMndar,) lies beneath the vestry-room ; and
Butler in the churchyard, abutting on King-street. Dr. Ame's remains are also said tc
rest here without any tombstone or memorial. In the churchyard lies Sir Robert
Strange, the engraver, who published his own prints at "the Gblden Head," Henrietta-
street. Holland and Edwin, and many players of minor note, are also buried in the
churchyard. The portico and overhanging roof of the church are picturesque in
efiect ; and the whole building is impressive from its vastness, and agreeable from the
simple rusticity of the order.
Da Vol, tho fkmooi biffhwayman, executed at Tyburn, Jan. 21, 1669, after lying •» HaU at the
Tangier Tavern, St. Giles, was buried in the middle aisle of St. Paul's ; his fhneFsl was attended with
flanibeaax, and a numerous train of mourners, including manr of the fair sex.
Before the portico of St. Paul's Chuich is erected the hustings for the election of members of Par*
liament for Westminster. Contests are now restricted to one dav ; but Westminster was, for many
Parliaments, the cockpit wherein battles of Court and people were rought, when " madman's holidav"
extended to fifteen days: finm Bradshaw and Waller to Fox and Sheridan; Burdett, Cochrane, aud
Hobhouse; and the popular dii minore§. Hunt and Cartwright.
St. Paul's, Heme-hill, between Camberwell and Dulwich, was built in 1844-5, by
Stevens and Alexander, in the Perpendicular Gothic style of tiie 15th century. It had
a lofty stone tower and spire, and a highly-decorated interior : the ceiling was divided,
by moulded beams and Gothic tracery, into panels, elaborately painted ; the beams
had illuminated Scripture textd ; all the windows were filled with stuned ghiss ; the
open seats were of polished oak ; the floor is laid with coloured encaustic tiles, and the
chancel-steps with tasteful porcelain, by Copeland ; the Decalogue^ &c, was written in
illuminated characters upon porcelain slabs ; and the pulpit panels were filled with paint-
ings of the Evangelists and Apostles. As this was one of the earliest specimens of
modem High-Church embellishment, so it was one of the most beautiful. The interior
was destroyed by fire in 1858, but has been rebuilt (Street, architect) in an earlier
style, and according to stricter ecclesiastical principles. Mr. Ruskin has pronounced
the church to be, as it now stands, " one of the loveliest churches of the kind in the
country, and one that makes the fire a matter of rejoicing."
St. Paul's, Lorimore-square, Walworth, erected 1857, H. Jarvis, architect; Early
English, wit)i Transition details; has a tower and spire of good form, at the north-east
angle, 122 feet high.
St. Paul's Chubch fob Seahek op the Pobt of Loin)Oir, near the London
and St. Katharine's Docks, the Sailors' Home, and the Seamen's Asylum, was founded
by Prince Albert, May 11, 1846, and consecrated July 10, 1847 ; H. Roberts, architect.
The style is Early English, with a western tower and spire 100 feet high. Prinoa
Albert gave tho east window and communion-plate, and was present at the consecration*
" In the course of a year it is computed that about 7000 seamen come to this church : a
field of usefulness that can scarcely be overrated."^Low's Charities of London, p. 390.)
St. Paul's has superseded the Episcopal Floating Church, originally the Brazen sloop-
of-war: she was moored in the Pool, and fitted with a small organ; and boats
were provided on Sundays at the Tower-stairs for the free passage of sailors to
attend the ship service, which was under the direct superintendence of Dr. Bloni fields
Bishop of London.
St. Paul's, Shadwell, named from its being in the patronage of the Dean and
Chapter of St. Paul's, was originally built in 1656 ; but rebuilt, as we now see it, in
CEURCHES AND CHAPELS. 197
X820-1, by Walters, who died in the latter year : it has a beantlftil spire, and is
^broaghout a very meritorious design. The parish, formerly a hiimlet of Stepney, was
ealkd Chadwelle, from a spring dedicated to St. Chad, within the churchyard.
St. Paitl's, Virginia-row, Bethnal-green, W. Wigginton, architect, is an inezpensiye
church, bnilt for a very poor neighbourhood. It is of ordinary stock brick, with red
and black bands ; has a four-light east window, vni\x tracery ; and at the north-east
angle a square chamfered tower of four stages, with a short broach spire.
St. Paul's, Wilton-place, Enightsbridge, designed by Cnndy, was consecrated by
the Bishop of London, May 30, 1843. It has an Early Perpendicular and eight-
pinnacled tower, 121 feet high. It consists of a nave and two aisles, and a chancel,
the latter very handsome ; here, in advance of the reading-desk and pulpit, is the
lectern. On the south are three sedilia ; over the Communion-table are three com-
partments of stonework, terminating in a reredos, above which is the great window of
stained glass, by Wailes, portraying the Prophets and the Twelve Apostles: the
window and stonework cost 1000^. llie font is of Caen stone, and has «ight sculptured
panels^ angels holding a shield or book, plant bosses, &c. The Organ is a very powerful
one, and has a richly-canopied case ; it covers 14 feet square, and is 30 feet high.
The itxif is open, and is said to be the larg^t unsupported by pillars of any ecclesias-
tical edifice in the metropolis. Eight of the side windows are filled with stained
glass, by Wailes, representmg scenes and actions of St. Paul and other Apostles. The
choral service is efficiently performed ; the silver-gilt Communion* plate is very massive;
the altar appointments are truly Anglican. The cost of this church was 11,000Z.,
exclusive of fittings. The Bev. W. J. E. Bennett, M.A., of Christ Church, Oxford,
appointed to the incumbency in 1843, resigned in 1850, and was succeeded by the
Hon. and Rev. B. LiddelL The furniture and services of this church have given rise
to much ritualistic controversy and litigation.
St. Pxteb'b, Beluze-park, Hampstead, is a crudform Decorated church, with a nave^
five bays, and a handsome east window of five lights ; all the windows are of stained
glassi, stated to be the work of the incumbent : completed 1859.
St. Petbb's, Comhill, was rebuilt of brick by Wren, after the Great Fire; it has
a tower and spire 140 feet high, surmounted by an enormous key, the emblem of St.
Peter. Here is a tablet recording the death by fire, Jan. 18, 1782, of the seven
children of James and Mary Woodmason, of Leadenhall-street. The nave and
chancel are separated by a carved wainscot rood-screen, set up by direction of Bishop
Beveridge, who was 32 years rector of St. Peter's, and who paid special attention to
the appropriateness of church furniture and repiurs. An inscription upon a brass plate
in the vestry-room describes the old church as founded a.d. 179, — a statement un-
supported by facts. Stow records a murderer to have fled to St. Peter's for sanctuary
in 1230; and one of the priests was murdered in 1243.
St. Pbteb's, Eaton-square, Pimlioo, an Ionic Church; H. Hakewill, architect;
consecrated in 1827. The altar-piece, *' Christ crowned with Thorns," painted by W,
Hilton, B.A., was presented to the church by the British Institution.
St. Petsb's, Saffiron-luU, a district church of St. Andrew's, Holbom, was designed by
C. Barry, B.A., in the Anglo-Norman Style, and consecrated in 1882 : it has been placed
in a proverbially depraved locality, with the most salutary effect.
St. Psteb's, Sumner-street, Banknde, designed by Edmunds, and consecrated 1839t
IS in the plain Pointed style, and has an embattled tower 84 feet high.
St. Pstbb's-lb-Poob, Old Broad-street, was taken down in 1788, rebuilt by Jesse
Gibson, and consecrated by Bishop Porteus in 1792. The church is traceable to
1181 : it was "sometime peradventure a poor parish" (Stow), but scarcely now con*
t^iins one pauper.
St. Pxteb'b, Yauxhall, occupies part of the site of the once famous Vauxhall
Gardens, was dengned by J. L. Pearson, and consecrated in 1864. The style is First
Pointed, of French type. It has two aisles, a western vestibule, nave, baptistery attaohed
to the west side of the south usles, and polygonal aisleless chancel ; there are four
198 CURIOSITIES OF LONDON.
bays to the nave, which comprises a sort of blank triforium, to be hereafter filled with
pictures, the subjects of which, it is suggested, should be from the Old and New Testa-
ments, on the respective appropriate sides. The triforium of the chancel is open,
composed of seven coupled lights, with rear-vaults and detached shafts; the clerestory
of the chancel is composed of acute lancets deeply splayed. The reredoe of alabaster,
carved, is by Poole; the mosaics on the wall are executed by Dr. Salviati, of Venice.
Beneath the triforium arcade of the east end it is proposed to place a line of frescoes,
representing the Passion. The whole of the church is groined in brick, with stone
ribs springing from vaulting-shafts of red stone, with carved capitals. The pulpit is
square, and of stone, with an incised picture towards the west, representing St. Peter
preaching on the Day of Pentecost : it is also richly carved. " Mr. Pearson's excellent
Church of St. Peter's is memorable as the first example, in London, in the present
revival, of a church vaulted throughout." — Eeport of the EccUsiological Society.
St. Peteb'b aj> YtscujaA, the chapel of the Tower, situate north-west of the White
Tower, dates as early as Henry I. : it was restored by Edward III., who added 18/. to
the original 3^. .of rectorial endowment. The seats are appropriated to the inhabi-
tants of the Tower. It is a very old rectory, and was put under the jurisdiction of
the Bishop of London by Edward VI. and Queen Mary : it is extra-parochiaL The
present chapel was erected temp, Edward I. ; it is of squared stones and flints, and has a
small bell- tower. The interior consists of a chancel, nave, and north aisle, the two latter
separated by fiat-pointed arches springing from clustered columns ; but little of the
original building remains. This diapel is extremely interesting, as the burial-place of
these eminent persons, executed within the Tower walls or upon Tower-hill : Queen
Anne Boleyn (beheaded 1536); Queen Eatherine Howard (beheaded 1542); Sir
Thomas More (beheaded 1535) ; Thomas Cromwell, Earl of Essex (beheaded 1540) ;
Margaret Countess of Shrewsbury (beheaded 1541) ; Thomas Lord Seymour, Lord
Admiral, beheaded 1549, by warrant of his own brother, the Protector Somerset, who
in 1552 was executed on the same scaffold; John Dudley, Duke of Northumberland
(beheaded 1553).
"There lyeth before the Hirii Altar in St. Peter's Church, tDro Dakes between two Qaeenes, to wit,
the Duke of Somerset and the Dnke of Northumberland, between Qaeen Anne and Qoeen Katherine,
all four beheaded."— <9<ow iS<ncn'$).
Lady Jane Grey and her husband. Lord Dudley (beheaded 1553-4) ; Robert Deve-
reux. Earl of Essex (beheaded 1600) : under the communion table Ues the Duke of
Monmouth (beheaded 1684) ; and beneath the gallery. Lords Kilmarnock and Bal-
merino (beheaded 1746) ; and Simon Lord Lovat (lieheaded 1747). The Kegister
records the burial in this chapel of Sir Thomas Overbury, poisoned in the Tower, 1613 :
and here lies Sir John Eliot, who died a prisoner in the fortress, his son ieang refused
by King Charles I. permission to remove the body to Cornwall for interment. Also
are buried in St. Peter's, John Roettier, " his Majesty's engraver at the Tower ;" and
Colonel Gurwood, who edited the Wellington Despatches. In the north aisle is the
altar-tomb, with effigies, of Sir Richard Cholmondeley (Lieutenant of the Tower,
temp. Henry VII.) and his wife, Lady Elizabeth. In the chancel is a rich mnrble
monument to Sir Richard Blount and his son Sir Michael, Lieutenants of the Tower,
sixteenth century ; with figpires of the knight and his sons in armour, and of his wife
and daughters. Here also is the tomb of Sir Allan Apsley, Lieutenant of the Tower;
and in the nave-floor is the inscribed gravestone of Talbot Edwards, keeper of the
Regalia in the Tower when Blood stole the crown. In the Tower Liberties the paro-
chial perambulation on Holy Thursday is triennial : after service in the church of St.
Peter, in the Tower, a procession is formed of the headsman bearing an ta.e, a painter
to mark the bounds, yeomen-warders with halberts, the Deputy -Lieutenant, and other
officers of the Tower, &c. ; the boundary-stations are painted with a red broad arrow
upon a white ground, while the Chaplain of St. Peter's repeats " Cursed be he who
removeth his neighbour's landmark."
St. Pkteb's, Walworth-road, in the parish of St. Mary, Newington, was built in
1823-5, and cost about 19,0002. It is one of Soane's classic churches ; the west front
decorated with Ionic columns, and the tower has two stories, the lower Corinthian
and the upper Composite. The interior is in elegant and original taste.
CHURCHES AND CHAPELS. 199
St. PfTSs's, Great Windmill-streefc, is in doee joxfcapositioa with the Argyll
Booms. The first stone was laid by the Earl of Derby, in 1860 : it whs built by
salneripiicni of the richer of the parish of St. James's, to supply the wants of the
poorer. To the fond of 12,000^, Lord Derby oontribated 4500/. It is remarkable
for its pietnresqae west fitmt, the only portion not shut in by the sorronnding houses :
the dtaofh cost about 6000/., and the site a like sum : architect* Raphael Brandon;
itjle. Decorated Early English.
iyr. SATioxm's, Cedars-road, Clapham Common, built by the Rer. Wentworth
Bowyer, rector of Clapham ; James Knowles, architect ; cost about 10,000/. ; is crud-
fonn, and has, at the intersection of the nave and transepts, a central pinnacled tower^
120 feet high. The windows are filled with stained glass by Clayton and Bell, a con-
nected series^ illoatrating the life of our Lord on earth. Under the tower, and in
front of the altar rails, is an altar-tomb, bearing on it a recumbent effigy of Mrs.
Bowjer, oo-fonndreas of the church, who died just before its completion. The style is
S^ODd Pointed : the mouldings, tracery, and carving are good.
St. Sayioub'b, Hoiton, built 1866, J. Brooks, architect, of brick, with stone bands ;
in the First Pmnted Gothic style, of Continental cast. The apae with half-conical roof;
the Nave roof 75 feet high, and the spirelet, rising like a sanctus bell, are externally
*ffi«fciTe J Lancet derestory windows, good.
St. Satioub akd Cboss, Wellclose-sqoare, was built at the expense of Christian Y .
King of Denmark, in 1696, by Cains Gkibriel Cibber, wl o erected here a monument to
^ wife Jane, mother of Colley Cibber, the &mous dran atist. King Christian YIL of
l^enmark, attended the church in 1768 while he remained in this country : it is still
osed by the Danes, as well as by St. George's Mission.
•
St. SATioxrR*8, Fimlico; architect, T. Cundy ; Second Pointed in style, has a tower
^ spire 190 feet high, only 12 feet less than the height of the London Monument.
It coit 12,000/., towards which the Marquis of Westminster contributed 9000/.
St. Satiouk'b, Sonthwark, a short distance from the south foot of London-bridge,
nnks in magnitude and architectural chai*acter as the third church in the metropolis^
*nd is one of the few churches in the kingdom possessing a Lady ChapeL Bomaa
'^"^sonryand pottery have been found bdow the church floor.
, A Tomiatio tmditloii is sisoeUted with this cboreh. Stow, in the socoont which he received fVoa
Iff^ ^e last Prior, describes it aa ''Saint Mtuy ouer the Bit, or Oceiy, that is, over the water,
nodiarch, or some other fu place thereof, was (of old time, long before the Conquest) an House
^ SoterB, .fiMmded by a msjden named Marg, onto the which Home and Si^ter8 she left (as
]'^ wft to her by her parents) the ouersight and profits of a Croaae Ferrie, or traueiie ferrie oner the
Jf^^nieai there kept baore vaj bridge was boilded." (5m Lovdov Bbidos, p. 65.) This story has
^^^Of been moch discredited. The shrouded figure now in the north aisle has been goesipmgly
'"^invd to Auderr. the Ferryman, fhther of the foundress of St Mary Orerie's, There is a curious,
uttioQfth probably fabuknu, tract of his life, entiUed, " The True History of the Life and sudden Death
^li old John Orers, the rich Ferry-Man of London, shewing how he lost his life by his own covetonsncas.
And of his daughter Mary, who caaaed the church of St. Mary Overs in Sonthwark to be built; and of
u« (Wilding ofLondon Bridge." There are two editions : the first, 1637. with woodcuU: the second,
I^K ** Printed for T. Harris at the Looklng-Ghus on London Bridge." It is among S. W. Musgrave's
^wigniphieal Tracts in the British MoseuuL A synopsis of the story is given in the Ckroniei€t </
ioarfoa Bridge, pp. 40^1
This was originally the diurdi of the Aug^tine Priory of St. Mary Overie, and was
foQQded by the Norman knights, William Pont de TArche and William Dauncy. The
°ave of the church is attributed to OifTord, Bishop of Winchester in 1106 (7th
Henry I.) • and an arch, an apsis, and other remains of this date, have been uncovered
h the removal of the masonry a£ the church, altered in the reigns of Richard II. and
Henry IV. After the Dissolution of the Monasteries, this church was purchased of
Henry VIII. by the people of Sonthwark ; and in 1540, it was made parochial as St.
^^nr's, and united with the two parishes of St. Mary Magdalen and St. Margaret-
at-HiU. The church is cathedral or crudform in plan, with a nave, transepts, choir, and
^7 Chapel, and a lofty embattled tower at the central intersection; besides Mary
Magdalen's and the Bishop's Chapds, now removed. An etching, by Hollar, executed
for Dogdale's Monasticon, shows the church about 1660. The Choir and Lady Chapd
vcre commenced in the Lancet stylo, according to an andent chronide: ''John
200 CURIOSITIES OF LONDON,
Dnno X^' (1208). Seynte Marie Orerie wrs that yere begonne." In 1618, the fine
perspective of nave and choir was destroyed by an organ- screen, set np in place of the
ancient rood-loft. In 1624, the Lady Chapel, which had been let out as a bakehouse
for 60 years, was restored ; and in 1689, the tower was repaired, and the pinnacles were
rebuilt : height 150 feet. From the roof Hollar drew his celebrated Views of London,
before and after the Great Fire, lately rendered familiar by Martin's pen-and-ink
lithograph. The choir, transepts. Lady Chapel, and tower are the work fi Bishop de
Rupibns, and afford a good specimen of the architecture of the commencement of the
thirteenth century, when the Pointed style flourished in its g^reatest purity. The
windows are lancet-shaped, the buttresses large and massive, united to the choir by
segments of arches ; the pinnacles which finish the buttresses closely resemble the cor-
responding works of Wykeham at Winchester. The eastern gable of the choir and
the foliated cross on the apex are very fine. " Of the east end," says Mr. George Ghvilt» '
. " no remains of the more ancient building existed; for this part of the restoration, the
eastern end of Salisbury Cathedral furnished the requisite data, and this is fuUy borne
out by Wyngrerde's Drawing of London, 1543."
For a long interval, the only repairs of the church tended to its disfigurement* by
barbarous brick casing and the destruction of beautiful windows ; until, in 1818, the
repair of the entire edifice was commenced with the tower. Ascending the tower, it
will be seen that a great portion of its elevation was open to the church as a lantern,
before the present painted ceiling, with its trap, was set up. " This tower," says Mr.
Gwilt, " if we may indicate the period of its erection from a well-preserved bust on
the north-west pier, must have been built so long ago as the time of King John. It
was not so much time, as the tremendous vibration caused by the ringing of a fine peal
of twelve bells, containing nearly eleven tons of metal (the tenor bell alone weighing
about 2\ tons), which split the tower on two sides, causing a fissure of three inches in
breadth. The further progress of this impending ruin was checked by the application
of cast-iron ties ; imperceptibly encirding each angular pier, as well as the four aides of
the tower, secured to octangular rings, ample allowances being provided for changes of
temperature." The pinnacles and embattled parapets were rebuilt, also windows in-
serted. This restoration was superintended by Mr. George Gwilt, F.S.A., who alao^
in 1822-24, took down the east end of the church to the derestoxy, and gave the pre-
sent face to the structure — his own design — consisting of an enriched gable, wiUi an
elaborately foliated cross on its apex ; pinnaded stiurcase turrets, with niches at the
angles ; and a new triple lancet window, in the more florid style of the thirteenth cen-
tury, instead of the original window of flve lights {temp, Henry VII.); besides a Catherine-
wheel window, of extraordinary richness and beauty. Over the vaulting a cast-iron
roof was erected, and covered with copper; and the piers of the flying buttresses on
each side were cased with stone, the aisle windows built anew, &c. ; in all which Mr.
Gwilt has rigidly adhered to the former work, " not only in the general design, but
in the minutest details, wherever prototypes could be found." In 1829-30, the
transepts were restored fh)m the designs of R. WaUace, architect ; groined roofs were
added ; and in the south was introduced a circular window, designed from that in the
ruins of Winchester Palace, Bankside, discovered through a fire in 1814. In the north
transept lias been inserted a window of circular tracery, in the style of Westminster
Abbey ; but the side windows, originally of beautiful length, have been injudiciously
shortened. Within, the transepts present a beautiful vista, second only to the choir.
The four magnificent arches which support the tower remain unaltered.
The Lady Chapd was used by Bishop Gardiner as a Consistorial Court in the reign
of Queen Mary. In 1555, a commission sat here for the trial of heretics, Bishop
Hooper and John Rogers being the first victims to the stake ; but within four years*
the Popish vestments were sold for the repairs of the church, and next the valuable
Latin records of the Priory were burnt as superstitious remains of Popery. The Lady
Chapel was restored in 1832, by public subscription, at the expense of 4027/. 19*, Id,^
Mr. G. Gwilt giving his gratuitous superintendence as architect. It possesses the sin-
gularity of four gables, which has a very beautiful effect. Tlie groined roof of the
Lady Chapd is very fine. Here is the marble tomb of Lancelot Andrewes, Bishop of
Winchester, with his full-length effigies, formerly in the Bishop's Chapd, where also
CnUBCHES AND CEAPEL8. 201
ht9 lenden coffin was foand. Some staincd-glaas windows, in memory of Protestant
mart jn, have been put ap in the Lady Chapel, and are effective as seen from the choir.
The Nave, it is believed, the oldest part of the structurei, was, in 1839, taken down
within 7 feet of the ground, and was sold for 150 guineas ! — ^by order of vestry-^
the Organ being then moved up to form a temporary end to the Choir. The roof of the
nave had wooden bosses, sculptured with grotesque heads, shields, dragons, flowers,
fruits, &c. The trusses of the roof had knees, springing from stone corbels, carved
into winged angels, bearing shields painted with various colours. The roof of each
mile was groined and ribbed, with bosses at the intersections. The timber roof of the
nave was a fine specimen of carpentry, said to have been put up by Bishop Fox (temp,
£dward IV.) At the west end wero Tudor doorways, to let down tapestry on high
festivals over the walls. In the ruined nave have been found a semicircxilar-headed
door and some other portions of the Norman church ; and a semicircular apse at the
north-east comer of the vestry, formerly St. John's Chapel, was brought to light.
These fragments, together with some ether remains, would seem to show that the
diuTch of the date of 1106 was situated on the north side of the present Choir. Thus
dismantled stood the roofless walls, and the massive Tudor doorway at the west end»
until, in 183S-8, the Nave was robuilt for Divine Service in poor, incongruous style;
and being separated from the Choir, St. Saviour's now presents the anomalous appear-
ance of two churches in one ; but had the Nave been restored aooorcUng to the ancient
example, the gproined roof of the church would exhibit an uninterrupted perspective of
208 feet. The most picturesque views aro from the clerestory vaultings of the Choir.
The commonplace oak and plaster of the last century have been removed from the
eastern end, thus unveiling the stone altar-screen, a beautiful composition of niches^
&c. ; and which, from its resembling that in Winchester Cathedral, and bearing Bishop
Fox's device of the pelican feeding her young, is inferred to be his workmanship : it
was restored in 1838, at the cost of 7002.
" In the fifteenth oentoxy, icnlptnre and painting lent their aid to oomplete and embellish thii smnp-
toooB dlaplay of mrehitecture. Upon the altar and under the centnl canopy, in the first ranges stood
the eraeifix ; the Urge niche above was appropriated to the statue of the Blessed Virgin, the patroness
of the church ; and the corresponding niche in the npper range we may as confldentlv assign to the
representation ofthe sacred Trinity ; ue minor niches might be ocoaided by the sainted bishops of the
see. Above the whole, the design was carried on in the painted glass of Uie east window, inclosed as
it were ina richly sculptored flrune: in this perfect state, what amagnificent scene was displayed in the
Choir r-^S. J. Carlo$, eenil0ma>n'$ Magiufne, Feb. 1834.
The church is very rich in painted sculpture tombs. In the south transept is the
Perpendicular monument of the poet Gower, removed from the north aisle of the nave
in 1882, when it was restored and coloured at the expense of the first Duke of
Sutherland, a presumed collateral descendant from the poet.* Here Gk>wer and his
wife are buried ; the poet beneath the above monument, triple canopied, and richly
dight with gold and colour inscription, with the recumbent effigies of Gower in prayer :
his hidr auburn, and long to the shoulders, and a small forked beard; on his head a
purple and gold rose fillet, with the words, " Merci Ihu ;" a habit of purple, damasked^
down to his feet; a collar of esses, gold, about his neck; his head resting upon three
gilded volumes, the "Speculum Me^tantis," "Vox Clamautts," and "Confossio
Amantis f* on the wall at his feet are his arms, and a hat or helmet, with a red hood,
ermined, and surmounted by his crest— a dog. Opposite Gtower's tomb is the coloured
host of John Bingham, saddler to Queen Elizahtth and James I. In the north
transept is a richly-piunted, carved, and gilt monument, with angels, rocks, suns, and
aerpents, to William Austen, Esq., who wrote a poem of " Meditations." Next lies
Dr. Lockyer, the empiric (temp, Charles II.), his reclining efiigies in thick curled wig
and furred gown :
" His virtues and his pills are so well known,
That envy can't confine them under ntone."~-JSpU(i^
• " We are afraid, on the showing of Sir H. Nicolas and Dr. Panli, that the (kmily of the Doke of
Rntberiand and Lord Ellesmere must relinquish all pretension to being related to, or even descended
from, John Oower. They have hitherto depended solely upon the possession of a MS. of the Confg$§io
Amamiig, which was supposed to have been presented to an ancestor by the poet; but it now turns out,
on the authority of Sir Charles Youug, Garter, that it was the very copy of the work which the author
laid at the feet of King Henry I V., while he was yet Horry of Hereford, Lancaster, and Derby !" —
Beriew of Dr. Pauli's edition of the Cot^fn$io Amaniu ; AtketuBum, No. 1537, p. 468. Baker is the only
ChRmider who gives the date of Gower's death correctly, namely, 1408, as m his Will ; most if ncft
all other writers represent Gower as dying in 1402 or 1403.
202 CURIOSITIES OF LONDON.
\ '
In the north idde is the monament to John Treheame, gentleman-porter to James I.,
with the costumed host of himself and wife. Opposite is the tomb of Alderman
Humble {temp, James I.), with kneeling figures of himself and his two .wives, and
representations of their children; and an inscription, slightly varied from a poem
attributed to Francis Qaarles, commencing —
" Like to the damask rose 70a Me.'
Here, too, is an oaken effigy, supposed of one of the Norman knights, fbundera of the
church ; and near it is the figure of an emaciated man, wrapped in a shroud, and finely
sculptured. The burial register records, under 1607, ** Edmond Shakespeare, a player,
in the church," the great ^matisfs brother, and who, doubtless, was followed to the
grave by him as chi^ mourner; under 1625 is "Mr. John Fletcher, a man, in the
church" (Beaumont and Fletcher) ; and Philip Massinger, "a stranger," in the church-
yard, 1638-9. Beneath a gravestone in the Choir lies Sir John Shorter, who died
Lord Mayor, in 1688 ; and his wife, who died in 1708 : he was the grandfather of
Lady Walpole, wife of Sur Robert, uid mother of Horace Walpole.
In the church was married, in 1406, Edmund Holland, hist Earl of Kent, Lord
Admiral of England, and grandson of the Fair Mud of Een^ to Lucia* eldest daughter
of Bamaby, Lord of Milan : King Henry IV. gave away the bride at the church-door.
Here, on the termination of his sentence, the Rev. Dr. Sacheverel preached in
1713, on the Christian Triumph, or Duty of Praying for Enemies; and the booksellers
gave him 100/. for the sermon.
The tower has a fine peal of twelve bells, and in the belfry are recorded exploits
performed upon them by the College and Cumberland Youths; though these
bells were not rung at the opening of London Bridge, in 1831, from the alleged in-
aecurity to the masonry. The dock, put up in 1795, has a dial 31 feet in circum-
ference; length of minute-hand, 5 feet; drcumferenoo of bell* 11 feet 6 inches. The
tower, east end, and Lady Chapel, originally concealed by the west side of the old High-
street, were opened to view in forming the approaches to New London Bridge, thus
presenting, perhaps, the finest architectural group in the metropolis : its restoration iu
the present century has cost above 60,000/.
St. Sepulchre's, anciently '*in the Bailey," at the east end of Skinner-street, and
adjacent to Newgate, was damaged in the Great Fire, which just reached Pye Comer,
northward of the church. It was rebuilt aboat the middle of the fifteenth century.
The south-west entrance-porch, resembling a transept, has a groined roof, with bold
ribs and beautifully-sculptured bosses; adjoining is an ancient chapel, erected by the
Popham family. The body of the church was refitted by Wren after the Fire. The
Organ, one of the largest and finest in London, was built by Harris, second only to
Schmidt, in 1677, and has been enlarged ; the pedal organ, with ten stops, or fourteen
ranks of pipes throughout, is unequalled in England. St. Sepulchre's was, in New-
<x>urt's time, " remarkable for possessing an exceedingly fine Organ, and the playing is
thought so beautiful that large congregations are attracted, though some of the
parishioners object to the mode of performing Divine service." The pulpit has a
sounding-board, like a parabolic reflector, with ribs of mahogany, the grain radiating
from the centre. Among the monuments is that of Capt. John Smith, Governor of
Virginia, and a romantic traveller (d. 1631) : his eccentric epitaph, recorded by Strype,
has disappeared. The benefactions to the parish include that of Mr. Richard Dowe,
who left a hand-bell, to be rung, with certain forms, to the condemned criminals in
Newgate, and on their way to Tyburn for execution, when it was also customary to
present a nosegay to each. St. Sepulchre's tower, *' one of the most ancient in the
outline in the circuit of London " {Malcolm), has four pinnacles with vanes, rebuilt
1630-33, and is 140 feet high : it has a fine peal of ten bells ; the dock regulates the
hanging of criminals at Newgate. *' Unreasonable people," says Howell, " are as hard
to reconcile as the vanes of St. Sepulchre's tower, which never looked all four upon one
point of the heavens." On April 10, 1600, one William Dorring^n threw himself
from the roof of this tower, leaving there a written prayer for forgiveness.
On St. Panl's Dav, service is performed in the chnrch in accordance with the will of Mr. Paul Jerris,
who in 1717, devisea certain land in trust, that a Sermon should be preached in the church upon every
Paul's Daj, upon the excellence of the Liturgy of the Church of England ; the preacher to receive 4iOt.
0HUBCHE8 AND CBAFEL3, 203
far tuch Mnnon. Virions simu are alio bequeathed to the Cnzate, the Clerk, the Treatorer, and
Hasten of the parochial achools. To the poor of the parish he bequeathed 20*. a-pieoe to ten of the
poorest hoosekeepers within that part or the parish of 8t. Sepnlchre oommoDlT called Smithfidd
qoarter; U. to the Treasurer of St Bartholomeurs Hospital; and 6». %d, yearlr to the Qerk, who shall
attoid to reoeire the same. The residue of the yearly rents and profits is to be distributed unto and
amongst such poor peopleof theparish of St. Sepulchrep London, who shaU attend the serrioe and sermon.
At the cloee of the service, the vestry Clerk rnds aloud an extract flrom the Will, and then proceeds to
the distribution of the mon^. In the erening the Vioar, Churchwardens, and Common Councilmen of
the Predoct, dina together.
St. Sncov'fl, Hoore-street, Chelsea, J. Peacock, architect, is of Gtothic design,
cmciform, with an intexior of some polychromatic display, by means of coloured
marble shafts ; and it has a very large east window of five ligbta, filled with stained
glass : completed 1859.
St. Stephen's, Coleman-street, was destroyed by the Great Fire, and rebuilt by
Wren, as we now see it, with a tower and bell-turret 65 feet high. Among the monu*
ments is a marble bas-relief, by £. W. Wyon, erected in 1847, to the Rev. Jo&ah
Pratt, Vicar of the parish, whose missionary labours are personified by the Angel of
the Gospel addressing an African, Hindoo, and New Zealander. A cnrious square oak
carving, about 6 feet by 2^, in alto-relief, is inserted over the gateway of St. Stephen's^
wluch Mr. George Scharf thus describes : —
"From the two upper oomers seems to hang a festoon of clouds, upon which in tiie centre, the
Sarioar isse^ed in cumbrous drapery, holding the banner of Redemption in the right hand, and the
ball and cross in the left ; the sigmficant action of the Judge is, therefore, entirely lost. He hail a large
beard and rough hair, but no nimbus.
** Immediately beneath the Saviour, in front of the clouds, Satan is Mling. He is represented
of a slim human form, with bideoua face, horns and bats' wmgs : his feet are tied together ! The
cnUre space below is filled with the dead— all entirely naked— issuing fh)m their coffins, which are
shaped like thoae now in use. At each end some figures are seen issuing flrom caverns. The central
fipres below are larger fiit children ; but otherwise there is no distinction of age or sex. One angel, to
the left of the Saviour, sounds the trumpet.
** There are no musical instruments nor indications of entrance to the places of final reward. The
Book of Life also ia not represented. The remaining space within the line of clouds is filled with win^
sQ(?el8, many of them exceedingly graoeftil, busied in assisting the aspirants to heaven by reachmg
tbeir hands over tlie clouds. Many of the figures, in their excitement, seem ready to scale the walla
of heaTen : but the treatment of the whole is very unworthy of the sulyect. As a piece of carving it ia
mnarkabfy good, and superior to that over the lich-gate of St. Giles's."— ^rc&Ao^o^ voL xxxvi. p.
%d). Ste St. Gzlss'b-xv-ths-Fzblds, p. 166.
In the old church was buried Master Antony Munday, who wrote a continuation of
i^tow's Survey f and for more than forty years arranged the City pageants and shows.
Of this parish John Uajward was under-sexton during the Great Plague, when he
carried the dead to their g^ves, and fetched the bodies with the Dead Cart and Bell,
}'et *< never had the distemper at all, but Uved about twenty years after it." — {See
I>efoe's Memoirs,)
St. Stephsm'b ths Mabttb, Avenue-road, Portland-town, is a large Decorated
ehnrch, by Daxskcs, with a tower and spire 136 feet high ; towards building which
two individuals gave 1000/. each; the freehold of the site and 5002. being also given
by the Duke of Portland.
St. Stsfhsit'b the Mabtyb, Rochester-row, Westminster, is a stately church, built
Md endowed at the sole cost of Miss Burdett Coutts, as a memorial to her patriotic
father. Sir Francis Burdett, Bart., M.P. for Westminster thirty years. The site was
pmented by the Dean and Chapter of Westminster, and is nearly opposite the Alms-
houses founded by Emery Hill in 1674. The first stone of the church was laid by
Uiss Coutts, July 20, 1847; it was consecrated June 20, 1850. The style is the
^l^corated, of the reigns of the first three Edwards; and the architect^ Ferrey. The
^Qfch consists of a Nave with aisles, and a Chancel ; and on the north side a masrive
^er and spire, 200 feet high, with a peal of dght bells by Mears ; all the windows
^ richly traceried. The Chancel ceiling is coloured blue^ powdered with gold stars ;
the walls are decorated with texts ; and the reredos is of the Canterbury diaper, picked
Q^t in gold and colour : the altar-cloth was presented by the Duke of Wellington, and
the chancel carpet was wrought in Berlin work by forty ladies of rank, the border by
^be girls of St. Stephen's SchooU; the design conrists of shields and heraldic devicea
«Qd panels of the fleur-de-lis and Tudor rose, within a Tudor rose border. The Organ«
by Hillyhu a screen of diapered pipes, and cost 800 guineas. The nave and aisle roofii
204 CURIOSITIES OF LONDON.
are of oak ; and the arcade rests upon clustered shafts, with sculptured capitals. The
pnlpit is of stone, and enriched with tracery ; and the font is sculptured with Scripture
subjects. The windows are filled with stained glass, by Wailes, and Powell's stamped
quarries. The stalls and seats are of oak, and for about 900 persons : in the chanoel
is a handsome corona of gas-burners and candlesticks. Adjoining are Schools, of very
picturesque design, also by Ferrey. By an Order in Council, in the Gazette, April 9»
1856, no one is to be buried in St. Stephen's Church besides Miss Coutts and Mrs.
Brown (widow of Mr. Brown, who is already buried there) ; and their bo^es are to be
imbedded " in a layer of powdered charcoal, six inches at least in thickness, and be
separately entombed in brickwork well cemented."
St. Stephen's, Spitalfields, £. Christian, architect, on the east side of Commerdal-
street, was completed in 1862. It is of yellow brick, with red and black bricks,
sparingly introduced ; its distinctive feature being the apse, which, instead of serving
as the chancel, as is usual, is placed at the west-end of the nave — a fashion borrowed,
with some other features, from Germany. Beside it is a parsonage, as quaint as the
church. The interior of the church is an exact square, without the apse. The walls
are plastered, but the piers and arches are faced with red and white bricks.
St. Stephen's, Walbrook, is the third church of that name and locality : the first,
according to Dugdale, stood on the west side of the " Brook ;" the second, built in
1428, on the east nde, was destroyed by the Great Fire ; and the present church.
Cinque-cento style, was built upon the same site, 1672-79, from the designs of Wren, at
a salary of 100/. a year ; and the parish accounts show that a hogshead of claret was
presented to the architect, and twenty g^uineas to his lady. The exterior is plain £
tower and spire 128 feet high. The interior is one of Wren's finest works, with its
exquisitely-proportioned Corinthian columns, and great central dome of timber and
lead, resting upon a circle of light arches springing from column to column ; its
enriched Composite cornice, the shields of the spandrels, and the palm-branches and
rosettes of the dome-coffers, are very beautiful ; and as you enter from the dark vesti-
bule, a halo of dazzling light flashes upon the eye through the central aperture of the
cupola. The fittings are of oak : and the altar-screen. Organ-case, and gallery, have
some good carvings, among which are prominent the arms of the Grocers' Company,
the patrons of the living, and who gave the handsome wainscoting. The carved pulpit
has festoons of fruit and fiowers, and canopied sounding-board, with angels bearing
wreaths. The church was cleansed and repaired in 1850, when West's painting of
the Martyrdom of St. Stephens, presented in 1779 by the then Kector, Dr. Wilson,
was removed from over the altar and placed on the north wall of the church. The
large east window, painted by Willement, represents the ordination and death of the
proto-martyr, to whom the church is dedicated : the other windows, by Gibbs, are a
memorial to the late rector. Dr. Croly, the eloquent poet and imaginative prose-
writer, whose bust by Behncs, and monument by Philip, are here. In a niche is also
placed a bust of the architect of St. Stephen's, Sir Christopher Wren. There are four
large windows, two at either end of the church, and thirteen smaller ones. The sub-
jects of the large windows at the west end of the church are the Nativity and Baptism
of Christ ; at the east end, the Crucifixion and Ascension. The small windows at the
north side are illustrative of the Parables of our Lord : the Sower, Good Samaritan,
Prodigal Son, Dives and Lazarus, Pharisee and Publican, the Ten Virgins, and the
Good Shepherd. On the south side, the miracles represented are — Turning Water
into Wine, Raising Jairus's Daughter, Bestoring the Blind to Sight, Feeding the
Five Thousand, the Pool of Bethesda, and Christ Walking on the Sea. The Organ
was built by England, and is very sweet-toned ; the case harmonizes with the
beautiful arcliitecture of the church.
This church, onqaestionahly elegant, has been OTerpralsed. The rich dome is considered by John
Carter to be Wren's attempt to " set ap a dome, a comparatiTe imitation(thouffh on a diminutive scale)
of the Pantheon at Rome, and which, no doubt, was a kind of probationary trial previous to his gifrantic
operation of fixing one on his octangular superstructure in the centre or his new St. Paul's." Mr. J.
Gwilt says of St. Stephen's : " Compared with any other church, of nearly the same magnitude, Italy
cannot exhibit its equal; elsewhere its rival is not to bo found. Of those worthy notice, the Zitelle at
Venice (by PalUuUo), is the nearest approximation in regard to size, but it ranks fiir below our church
in point of composition, and still lower in point of eflect." Agaui: " Uad its materials and volume
CHUBGEE8 AND CHAPELS. 205
been as durable and eztenalTe as thoie of St. Pool's Cathedral, Sir Christopher Wrm had oonaammatad
(in St. Stephen's) a modi more efficient monoment to his well-earned flune than that ihbric affords."
St. Stephen's aerveB also for the parish of St. Bennet Sherehog. Upon the north mde
of Puicras-lane is a small endosed piece of ground, and npon a stone on an adjoining
boose 18 inscribed, " Before the dreadful fire, anno 1666, here stood the parish church
St. Bennet Sherehog."
Pendleton, the celebrated VIear of Brar, known bj his naltiTersations, sabseqaentlr became rector
of Si. Stephen's, Walbrook. It is related that in the reign of Edward VI., Lawrence Sanders, the martyr,
an honest bat mild and timorous man, stated to Pendleton his fears that he had not strength of mind
to endure the persecution of the times ; and was answered by Pendleton that **k« would see every drop
of his fiat and the last morsel of his flesh consumed to ashes ere he would swerve Arom the faith then
established." He, however, changed with the times, saved his ftit and his flesh, and became rector of
St. Steplien's, whilst the mild and diffident Sanders was bunt in Smithfleld.
The oldest monument in the church is that of John Lilbume : Sir John Yanbrugh,
the wit and architect, is buried here, in the fiunilj vault. During the repairs in 1850,
it is stated that 4000 coffins were found beneath the church ; they were covered with
brickwork and concrete to prevent the escape of noxious effluvia.
St. SwiTum's, London Stons, Cannon-street, was destroyed by the Great Fire,
and rebuilt by Wren, in 1680, as we now see it. It has a tower and spire 150 feet
high ; but is chiefly remarkable for having against its outer south wall, within a modem
stone case, all that remains of the ancient " London Stone," a Roman miliarium.
Before it was removed from the oppomte side of Cannon-street it was well secured, for
Sir John Fielding, in his London and Westmingter, 1776, tells us, " it was fixed so
Tcry deep in the ground, and was so thoroughly fiistened by bars of iron, that the most
ponderous carriages could do it no injury."
Tbutis Chttsch (St. Maiyt), in the rear of the south side of Fleet-street, was the
church of the Knights Templars after their removal from their chief house on the site
of old Southampton House, without Holbom-bars.* It consists of ** the Bound,"
built in 1185, and consecrated by Heradius, Patriarch of Jerusalem, some two cen-
turies, or nearly so, before the addition of the Qothic Latin Cliapel of the time of
Edwitfd II., as erected by the Knights of St. John after the expulsion of the Templars.
The inscription (from the Saxon) beneath the western entrance is :
"Ab incamatione Domini MCLXXXV^ dedicata hiec eeclesia in honore beats Marin, a domino
EBACLIO, Dd irratia Sanctss Kesnrrectionis eoelesie patriarcha, IV. idus Febraarii, qui earn anna-
tim petentibus de iignncta sibi penitentia LX. dies indulsit."
This is one of the four circular churches built in England after the Templars' return
from the first and second Crusades; the other three existing at Cambridge, Northampton ;
and Maplestead, in Essex. The architecture is midway between Romanesque and Early
English Qothic : the western entrance semicircular arches and capitals are richly sculp-
tared and deeply recessed ; within, Purbeck marble columns, with boldly-sculptured
capitals, support a gallery or triforium of interlaced Norman arches ; and the clerestory
hsa nz Romanesque windows, one filled with stained glass, bright ruby gpround, with
a representation of Christ, and emblems of the Evaqgehsts ; and the ceiling, of Sara-
cenic character, is oolomed. On the gallery well-stiurcase is a " penitential cell/'
The arcade in the aisle beneath has sculptured heads of astonishing variety, copies exe-
cuted by Sir R. Snurke in 1827 ; and here are pointed arches with Norman billets.
Upon the pavement are figures of Crusaders, " in cross-legged effigy devoutly stretched,"
hot origiually placed upon altar-tombs and pedestals.
These efllgiM of feudal warriors are soulptnred out of freeatcme. The attitudes of all are different,
but ther are all recumbent with the legs crossed. TheT are in complete maU with surcoats ; one only
is bare-headed, and has the oowl of a monk. The shields are of the httUer or Norman shape, but the
siae is not the same in all : one of them is very long, and reaches fi^m the shoulder to the middle of
the les. Their heads, with one exception, repo»e on cushions, and have hoods of nudL Three of them
have flattish helmets over the armour, and one has a sort of casque. They have heen well restored by
Mr. Bi^ardson. Th» best authorities assign five of them as follow : to Geoi&y de Magnaville^ Earl of
* In the rear of the house No. 822, High Holbom, is a room or hall, for some unexplained reaaon,
called "the chapel:" it has a finely panelled oak ceiling, about A.n. 1600: a large window opening,
and a pointed doorway, now filled up. A few vards westward may be traced the position of the Round
ChoKh of the Templars, which they poesessea previous to the erection of the present Temple Church
is Fleet-etreet. Stow relates that adloining the old Temple Church was the Inn of the Bishop of Llo-
eob; and afUnrards a house belonging to the Earl of SouthampUm, to which the room in question
ippeaiB to pertain.— J. Wghtkam Ardm, 1860.
206 CUBI08TTIE8 OF LONDON.
SaMZ, AJ>. 1144 (right aTiii on hif breast and large sword at his right)— he Is not mentioned by
Weever : WUUam MareschalL Earl of Pembroke, a.d. 1219 (sculptared in Sussex marble, with hia
sword throogh a lion's head) ; Robert Lord de Bos, a.d. 1246 (head uncovered, with long flowinr
hair), whose effigy is said to have been brought (h>m HelmsleT Church, Yorkshire ; William Mareschall,
Junior, Earl of Pembroke, 1231 (with lion rampant on shield, and sheathing his sword) ; Gilbert
jlareschall. Earl of Pembroke, 1281 (drawing his sword, winged dragon at feet).— ^ Olauee at tk*
Tnmle Ckurtk^ by Henrj Cole. See also Richardson's. If/M^ro^ioiw, 1B45.
In 1841 were msoorered the ancient lead oofflns containing the bodies of these knights, who did
not appear to hare been burled in their armour; and none of the ooffin ornaments were of earlier date
than tne beginning of the 13th century.
There has also been found in the Churdi an early inscribed monument, upon which Mr. W. 8.
Walford has succeeded in decipheriuff the name of Phiup de St. Hilaire, who was of a Norman Ikmily,
allied with the Claris and the Earl of Arundel at the close of the twelfth century; and the name has
been found by Mr. Waterton among the Knights Templars of the century.
In the Temple Round, lawyers received clients as merchants on 'Clhange :
" Retain all sorts of witnesses,
That ply i' the Temple under trees :
Or walk the Round with Knights o'the Posts,
About the cross-legg'd knights, their hosts."— JErit<2t5fYi«, pt. iil. c. 8.
Dngdale says : '' Item, they (the lawyers) have no place to walk in and confer their
learnings hut \^ church; which place all the term-times hath in it no more quietness
than the Pervise of Paoles, hy occaaon of the confluence and concourse of sudi as are
suitors in the law." " The Round" is the nave or yestibule to the ohiong portion, which
is the Choir, in pure Lancet style, almost rebuilt in the restorations and alterations in
1839-42 hy Savage and Sydney Smirke. The groined roof, richly coloured in ara-
besque, and ornamented with holy emblems, is rendered very effective by the floods of
light from the triple lancet-headed windows.
The Temple Church Organ has a strange history. It was built late in the reign o€
Charles II. by competition. First was set up an organ by Schmidt, when Dr. Blow and
Purcell, then in their prime, performed on the instrument on appointed days, to dis-
play its excellence. Another organ was built in a different part of the church, by
Harris, who employed Sully, organist to Queen Catharine, to touch this organ, which
brought it in &vour,* and the rival organs competed for nearly a year. At length,
Harris challenged Schmidt to make additional reed-stops in a given time; these were the
vox humana, (iremome, the double-cartel, or double-bassoon, and some others ; and
these stops, which were new to English ears, delighted the crowd at the triaL At
length. Judge Jefferies, of the Inner Temple, terminated the controversy in favour of
Schmidt ; and Harris's Organ was removed. The partisanship ran so high, that, accord-
ing to the Hon. Roger North, '* in the night preceding the last trial of the reed-stops,
the friends of Harris cut the bellows of Smith's organ in such a manner that when the
time came for playing upon it, no wind could be conveyed into the wind-chest."
The TemploOrvim is considered Schmidt's masterpiece, and though additions have been made by
Byfield, and oy Bishop, it retains all the original pipes in great organ and choir on^ui. The swell was
constructed by Byfield, and perhaps still contains the pipes of the oiinnsl also. This organ is remark-
able for possessing quarter-tones, so that there is a difference of tone oetween G sharp and A flat, and
also between D sharp and E flat. Originally this arrangement occurred only in the choir organ and
great organ; and it seems to have heea. introduced either as an olyect of curiosity, or to render it in
some wav more perfect than Ut rivalf since probably Harris was unprepared for the novel contrivance.
(See A $kort Account qfOrgaru built in Snffumd, 1847.) This organ is a grand instrument, but &r too
large for the church. The Musical Service here is very flue.
In the Uttle vestry beneath the Organ-gallery is a marble tablet to Oliver Gold-
smith, buried in the ground east of the choir, April 9, 1774. The choir-stalls and
benches are beautifully carved in oak from ancient examples : the altar is new, in the
style of Edward I., and contains five canopied panels, gilt and illtnninated ; here are an
ambry, piscina, and sacrarium or tabernacle for the Eucharist ; and behind the altar
are three ancient niches for sacred utensils. On the south is the monumental efiig^es
of a bishop in pontificals, supposed to be that of Silverston de Eversdon, Bishop of
Carlisle, d. 1255, and buried here. To the left is a white marble tomb over the re«
mains of the learned Selden, d. 1654, in Whitefriars ; his funeral sermon was preached
by Archbishop Usslier. In the triforium are the tombs of Plowden, the jurist ; Howell,
writer of the Familiar Letters ; and Edmund Gibbon, an ancestor of the historian :
the views of the church from this gallery are very picturesque. Here are also several
memorials of eminent lawyers ; and among them, a marble bust, by Rossi, of Lord
Chancellor Thurlow (d. 1806). On the south wall is a tablet to Ann Littleton (d.
1628), daughter-in-law to Sir Edward Littleton, with a quaint epitaph, ending—
0HUBGEE8 AND CHAPELS. 207
" Keep well this pawn, thou marble chest;
TiU it be called for. let it n»t:
For whQo this jewel here is sot.
The grave is but a cabinet."
It is mentioned in Dngdale's MonaHieon tbat both King Henry II. and his Qneen
Eleanor directed that their bodies shonld be interred within the walls of the Temple
Chapeiy and that the above monarch by his Will left 500 marks for that purpose. Tho
walls are inscribed with Scriptnre texts in Iiatin ; and between the top of the stalls and
the string-oonise beneath the windowsi, is the Hymn of St. Ambrose. The windows,
by Willement, are among the finest specimens of modem stained glass : the altar sab-
jectB are from the life of Christ, the interspaces heang deep-blue and ruby mosaic, with
glittering borders. Knights Templars fiU the aisle windows ; but that opposite the
organ has figures of angels playing musical Instruments.
A brief historj of the Templars in England and of this church may be read in the mde effigies of
the snooeasiTe kings during whose reigns ther flourished, now painted on the west end of the chanoeL
At the south comer aits Henry I. (a..i>. 1128), holding the flrst tnnner of the Crusaders, half black, half
white, entitled *'Beanseant;" white typifying fiiimess towards friends; black, terror to foes. This
banner was changed during the reign of Stephen (a.d. 1116) for the red croes :
" And on his brest a bloodie crosse he bore.
The deare remembrance of his dying Lord."
Henry H. and the Bound Church are represented by the third figure. Richard I., with the sword which
he wielded as Crusader, and John, his brother, are the next kings ; and in the north aisle is portrayed
Heniy III., holding the two churches ; the chancel, or square part, having been added in his reign, and
canseeratod tm Ascension-day, 1240.— Cole's Glance at the Temple Cftureft.
Externally, the east end has three high gables, with crosses ; and the bell is hung in a
new stone turret on the north side. The church has been thrown open to view ; and
in removing the house over the porch, a western wheel-mndow was exposed in the
Xorman Bound. The groined western Korman porch has been restored, and covered
with a leaded gable roof. The renovated ashlar-work has been carried throughout the
Koond ; a new cone or spire has been placed on the top, in place of the former roof,
dormer lights introduced, and the spire terminated in a larg^ metal gilt vane — a
strictly medisBval bird. By the clearance of buildings, a sort of new location is given
to the Norman Bound and porch, and the sunken g^iissy churchyard with its ancient
tombs. These works are by S. Smirke and St. Aubyn. During their progress, the
dust and bones of the learned John Selden were ** carted away and shot into a dust-
hole." Opposite the bell-turret, in the burial-ground, was found a decayed blue flag or
slate iedger-stone, inscribed with uncial letters, ending pen, which slab was once laid
over the remains of Selden, whose dust and remains were ignominiously treated as
above by the workmen. This is remarkable, se^g that, according to Aubrey, at the
time of the interment of Selden, no pains seem to have been spared to render the depoa*
tory secure. Anbrey tells us : —
" His (Selden's) grsre was ten foot deep or better, walled up a good war with brick, of which also
the bottome was paved, but the sides of the bottooie for about two fleet high were of black polished
marble, wherein his coffin (covered with black bays) lyeth, and upon that wall of marble was presently
lett ^wne a huge black marble stone of great thickness with this inscription : ' His Jacet corpus
Johannia Selden, ^ui obiit die Novembris, 1654.' Over this was turned an arch of brick (fOr the
House would not give their ground), and upon that was throwne the earth, &o.— Letter to The 2Vaie»,
late in 1864.
North-east of the Choir is the house of the Master of the Temple, as the preacher at
the church is called : it is fronted by a garden, beneath which is the Benchers' Vault.
One of the most learned Masters was Hooker, author of the Eecletiastiedl Folity f
another eminent Master was Sherlock, afterwards Bishop of London.
The Offertory alms are distributed to the poor, chiefly old servants of the Temple, at
Midsammer and Christmas.
In March, 1862, at a short distance south of the Bound of the church were exca-
vated some pillars and part of the basement of St. Anne's Chapel, which connected
the oonvent of the Temple with the church. This chapel was taken down in 1827 ;
here Almeric de Montfort, the Pope's chaplain, who had been imprisoned by Edward I.,
was set at liberty at the uistanoe of the Boman Pontiff.
St. Thoxas the Apostle stood in Enightrider-street. It was an endowment of
the Oanons of St. Paul's, and is spoken of so early as 1181. Sir Wm. Littlebury,
oUat Horn (so named, saith Stow, by King Edward IV., because he was an excellent
208 0UBI08ITIE8 OF LONDON.
blower on the horn), was bnried here. He bequeathed his house, called the Qeorge, in.
Bread-street, to find a priest for the sanctoaiy, who was to have a stipend of 61. 13t. 4dm
yearly; also to every preacher at Paol's-oross and the Spittle, 4d, for ever; to the
priflonerB at Newgate, Ac, lO*. at Christmas and Easter, for ever, which legacies were
aoon fiirgotten. He further gave four new bells to the church, and 500 marks towards
repairing the lughways between London and Cambridge. His house, garden, &c, to
be sold and bestowed in charity, " as his executors would answer before God." The
church of St. Thomas the Apostle was destroyed in the Great Fire, and was not rebuilt.
St. Thomas, Chabtebhouse, Goswell-street-road, a brick church in the Anglo-
Norman style, was designed by £. Blore, and consecrated 1842. A portion is set
apart for the Brethren of the Charterhouse.
St. Thoills's, Southwark, in St. Thomas's^street, was originally the church of the
Monastery or Hospital of St. Thomas, but was made parochial after the Dissolution :
in 1702 it was rebuilt of brick, with a square tower, closely resembling that of the
former church. The Register records the marriage^ Jan. 27, 1618, of the &ther
and mother of John Evelyn. Johnson, the younger, the sculptor of the Stratford
bust of Shakspeare, is ascertained, by Cunningham and Halliwell, to have lived in this
parish.
TBnriTT, Holt, Bessborough Gardens, close to Yauxhall Bridge, a ^strict church of
St. Margaret's and St. John's, Westminster, was erected at the sole expense of Arch-
deacon Bentinck, Prebendary of Westminster ; the foundation-stone was laid by Mrs.
Bentinck, Nov. 8, 1849, on which day also was founded another church, in Great Peter-
street, in the same parish. Holy Trinity Church is designed in the Early Decorated
style (temp. Edward I. and II.) : at the intersed^on of the four arms rises an enriched
tower and spire, 193 feet high : the east-end window of seven lights is large and fine.
The church has been decorated and furnished by subscription.
Tbinitt, Holt, Bisbop's-road, Paddington, a Perpendicular church, built by Cundj
in 1844-6; it has a richly crocketed spire and pinnacled tower, 219 feet high, and a
magnificent stmned chancel-window : the crypt is on a level with the roofi of the
houses in Belgi'ave-square.
TsiNiTT, Holt, Brompton, a church in the Early English style, by Donaldson ;
with a lofty tower, and stained glass of ancient design and colour ; consecrated 1829.
It occupies, with the burial-ground, the site of a nursery-garden ; here flowers and
fhnereal shrubs decorate the graves. John Reeve, the comic actor, is buried here.
Tbinitt, Holt, Hartland-road, Haverstock-hill, is a district church of St. Pancras,
and was consecrated 1850. It is built in the Middle Pointed style, Wyatt and BrandoUp
architects, and consists of a Nave, with north and south aisles. Chancel, and tower
and spire 160 feet high ; the chancel is novel, the arches producing an elegant play
of lines.
TinoTT, Gray's-inn-road, district church of St. Andrew's, Holbom, designed by
Pennethorne, was built in 1837-8 : it has a pedimented centre, and beliiry with cupola
roof and cross, and catacombs beneath for 1000 bodies. Adjoining is the old burial-
ground of St. Andrew's, its crowded graves interspersed with trees and shrubs.
Tbinitt, Albany-street, Marylebone, designed by Soane, R.A., in classic taste, has the
first story of the tower of beautiful de»gn ; but the second puny, owing to lack of
funds. The basement has spacious catacombs.
Tbinitt, Holt, Minories, was originally the church of the Priory of the Holy Trinity,
founded by Matilda, Queen of Henry I., in 1108. The church was without the walls
of London, and escaped the Great Fire ; but becoming insecure, it was taken down
and rebuilt in 1706 ; the font was taken from the old church ; a spring in Haydon-
square was the Priory fountain. It is stated by Strype, that Trinity pretended to
privileges, as " marrying without a license." In the Chancel is the tomb of the loyal
William Legge, who bore the touching message of Charles I. from the scafibld to his
son, the Prince of Wales, ei\joining him to ** remember the faithfullest servant ever
prince had." Here, too*, is buried Legge's son, the first Earl of Dartmouth ; and his
CHURCHES Aim CHAPELS. 209
grandson, the second Earl ; and annotator of Burnet. Some bones from the battle-
field of CnUoden are deposited in the churchyard, bearing' date 1745.
St. Vedast's, Foster-lane, destroyed by the Great Fire, and rebuilt by Wren, has
an original and graceful spire, in three stories. The interior has a ceiling enriched
with wreaths of flowers, and firuits, and foliage; and a carved oak altar-piece, with
winged figures, palm-branches, a pelican, &c. In the vestry-room is a print of ** West
Cheap " in 1585, with the church of St. Michael on the north side of Paternoster- row,
the burial-place of the antiquary, Lehmd (d. 1552). *'The only church clock in London
— or, perhaps, the kingdom — tmihout a face, in St. Yedasf s, Foster-lane^ at the back
of the Post-Office, which strikes on a small shrill bell, supernumerary to the peal
of six.'*
Towers akd Sfibes. — ^Tlie Churches of London give much beauty to evory view of
the metropolis, and have, moreover, many valuable and interesting associations. In
the ** Union of Benefices Act is nothing that shall authorize the pulling down the
churches of St. Stephen, Walbrook; St Martin, Ludgate; St. Peter, Comhill; and
St. Swithin, Cannon-street." To preserve the other works of this class, a meeting was
held on the top of St FauVi, at which six architects examined the various towers and
steeples, with the view of saying which should be preserved. The sight was wonderful,
sod those present found few spires to the destruction of which they were willing to
assent. A memorial was agreed on, and, being signed by the President of the Institute of
Architects and members of the Council, presented to the House of Commons, praying that
the following towers and steeples be added to those exempted from destruction, namely :
{wei% ixnumnr; wunt Msrnret ruteni ; Baint Mary Aixmurch; Haint Mary Aidermanr; saint
VaiT's-Ie-Bow ; Saint MarVs, Somerset ; Saint Mary Manlalen's, Old Fiih-street-bill ; Saint Michael%
Gonihill; St. Michael's, Queenhlthe; Sahit Michael's Boyal: Saint Mildred's, Bread-street} Saint
Hfldred's, Poultry s Saint Sepulchre's; Saint Yedasf a, Foeter-laDe.
According to Mackeson's trustworthy Gui<i€ to the Churches of London and Ut
Subttrhe, 1866, their entire number is 868.
EPISCOPAL CHAPELS.
ASYLUM (Fekalb Osfkas) Chapel, Westminster-road, Lambeth, was buHt for
the Charity, established 1758, at the suggestion of Sir John Field^, the police-
magistrate. The chapel service was rendered attractive by the singing of the Orphan
diildren, and by popular preachers, thus contributing to the support of the institution
I7 a ooHection. The Asylum was rebuilt in the country, in 1866, with the chapel,
when the premises in Westminster-road were taken down.
St. Babtholousw'b, Eingsland, was an ancient and picturesque wayside clftipel,
near the toll-gate, and taken down in 1846. Its walls were of flint and rubble, the
window-frames of stone, in the Perpendicular style, and in the roof was a wooden
bell-turret. It was originally the chapel of a hospital or house of lepers, called '* Le
Lokas," and was long an appendage to St. Bartholomew's Hospital, to which it was a
^d of outer ward till 1761, when the patients were removed from Kingsland,
*i^ the site let for building. Upon the petition of the neighbouring inhabitants, the
cbapel was repaired, and service performed there, the chaplain bdng appointed by the
governors of St. Bartholomew's. It was so small as scarcely to contain 50 persons.
It is engraved in Archer's Vestigee of Old London, part L 1850.
BsDTOBBBTTBT Chafbl AiO) SCHOOL. — Bedfordbury is a narrow street running
OQt of New-street, Covent Garden, to Chandos-street, and was built about 1637. On
the west nde of this, a compound edifice, part chapel, port school, has been erected —
the school-room placed over the chapel ; and opened (not consecrated) with an after-
noon service, Br. Tait, Bishop of London, preaching. The site is about 60 feet by 40
feet. The building is entered from Bedfordbury, through a small gabled tower. The
210 OUBIOSITIES OF LONDON.
doorway bas an arched head, the tympannm being filled with scolptnre repreeentin^
'* The Qood Shepherd." The chapel connstB of a Nave and sopth aisle, a amall Chancel
xaiaed two steps, and a sacrarinm one step higher. The material employed, inade and
cat, is brick, relieved with bands of red. The nave is divided from the aisle by a
brick arcade, carried on Bath stone oolomns with carved capitals. The arch to the
sacrariom is carried on small colamns of slate with carved capitals and corbels. The
sacrarinm is decorated in a somewhat novel manner in tgraftto. There is a credence
table and a reredoe, in stone, alabaster, and marble, by Eurp, who executed all the
carving ; the east window, of five lights, is filled with stained glass : the other windovrs
are filled with roagh plate-glass (not in quarries). Light is admitted, too, by dormers
in the sonth aisle. The ceiling is boarded, and separated into compartments by the
girders which carry the floor of the school-roonu A harmonium hau been presented
to the chapel by Lady Overstone. The building, exclusive of the site, cost 2d00^.,
raised by subscription, headed by the Queen and Prince Albert, 2502. ; Miss Bordett
CoutU, 3002.; architect, A. W. Blomfield.
Beftikck Chafu^ Chapel-street, New-road, was built in 1772, and opened by the
Rev. Mr. Hunt, father of the originator of the Sxaminer newspaper. The Rev.
Basil Woodd was minister of this chapel 46 years.
Chablotte Chapel, Charlotte-street, Buckingham-gate, was built in 1776 for ''the
unfortunate Dr. Dodd," who laid the first stone in July. " Great success attended the
undertaking," writes Dodd ; " it pleased and it elated me." In the following year,
June 27, Dodd was hanged at Tyburn for forgery. Charlotte Chapel, now St. Peter's,
was also occupied by Dr. Dillon j it was refitted in 1850.
Dttke-stbeet Chafeii^ Westminster, was originally the north wing of the house
built for Lord Jefferies, Lord Chancellor to King James II., who permitted a flight of
stone steps to be made thence into St. James's-park, for Jefferies's spedal accommoda-
tion : they terminate above in a small court, on three sides of which stands the ouoe
costly mansion. One portion of it was used as an Admiralty House, until that office
was removed by William III. to Wallingford House. The north wing (in which
Jefferies transacted his judicial business out of term) was formed into a chapel in 1769,
with a daily service ; Dr. Pettingale, the antiquary, was for some time incumbent.—
See Walcott's Westminster, p. 72.
FoTnn)LivG Hospital Chapel, Quilford-street, was designed by Jaoobson, in
1747, and built by subscription, to which George II. contributed 3000^. Handel gave
the large profits of a performance of his music ; and his Messiah, performed in the
chapel for several years under his superintendence, produced the Charity 70002. At
the west end of the edifice are seated the children and the choir ; and in the centre
is the Organ, g^ven by Handel : the altar-piece, " Christ presenting a little Child," is
by West, who retouched the picture in 1816. Several blind " foundlings," instructed
in music, by their singing, greatly added to the funds of the Charity, by pew-rents
and contributions at the doors, and for several years the latter exceeded 1000/. ; the
net proceeds of the chapel have been stated at 6872. the year, after paying the profes-
sional choir. Beneath the chapel are stone catacombs : the first person buried here was
Captain Coram, the founder of the Hospital. Lord Cliief-Justioe Tenterden is interred
here; and his marble bust is placed in the eastern entrance to the chapel. Children
who died in the Hospital were formerly biuied in the churchyard of St. Pancras. —
When the Rev. Sidney Smith came to London, in 1804, he was elected one of the
chaplains to the Foundling Hospital, where his sermous were very attractive, espc-
daUy those on the objects of the Charity, so often misunderstood and misrepresented. The
chaplain's salary was but '502. a-year. Mr. Smith resided in Doughty -street, and here
he early obtained the acquidntanoe and friendship of several eminent lawyers in that
neighbourhood ; the most distingmshed of whom were Sir Samuel Romilly, Mr. Scarlett
(Lord Abinger), and Sir James Mackintosh. To these may be added Dr. Marcet»
M. Dumont, Mr. AVliishaw, Mr. R. Sharpe, Mr. Rogers, &c. Mr. Smith likewii^e
officiated at Berkeley Chapel, May-fair; and at Fitzroy Chapel — Lives of Wits and
Mumoitrists, vol. ii. pp. 216-219. 1862.
CEUBCHE8 AND CHAPELS. 211
OBAT's-nnr Chapel, on the south gide of Gray's-iim-Bquare, on the dte of a chapel
hailt long anterior to the Reformation, has special seats assigned to the Benchers,
Barristers, and Students, and others nnappropriated. It has been much moderoized.
Here are three good windows by Gibbs, on the north nde : 1. Christ in the Temple, in
the midst of the Doctors. 2. Christ ddivering the Sermon on the Moant. 8. The
Asoenrion. These windows were presented by Samuel Turner, Esq., one of the
Benchen» and Dean of thcf chapel, 1862. In the east window are the arms of the
▼arions prelates who haye been either honorary Members or Benchers of the Sodety.
A new Organ was set up in 1863. The sermons are preceded by "the Bidding
Pnyer." The Offisrtory is dispensed to the poor of the Inn. The music is chiefly
from the old English masters, sung by the choir, established 1850. There do not
appear to be any records of the Preachers earlier than 1574^ when Mr. W. Cherke, or
Cbarke, was appointed : he was afterwards Preacher of Linooln's-inn and Fellow of
Eton. There have been 23 preachers once his day, among whom were Dr. Roger
Fenton, one of the translators of the Bible ; Dr. Richard Sibbe^ the celebrated Puritan,
aothor of the Srtdsed Heed ; Dean Nicholas Bernard, Chaplain to Oliyer CromweU*
wad one of his almoners; Bishop Wilkins, the mathematician; Archbishop Wake;
Bean Robert Moss; Archdeacon Stebbing; Bishop Walker King; Dr. Matthew
fiaine^ Head-master of Charterhouse School; and Dr. George Sheppard, an elegant
ud sound scholar, who died in 1849. He was succeeded by the Rev, Dr. Hessey,
Head-master of Merchant Tailors* School, &c, the present preacher.
GsosvxKOB Chapel, South Audley-street, contains in its vault the remains of
Ambrose Philips, the Whig poet, whom Pope ridiculed, but Tickell, Warton, and
Goldsmith eulogized; of Lady Mary Wortley Montague; and John Wilkes, cha-
ncteristically demgnated by himself on a tablet as " a Friend to Liberty."
Han OTBB Chapel, R^ent-street, between Prince's and Hanover-streets, was built
in 1823-28, C. B. Cockerell, R.A., architect, and is of the Ionic order of the Temple
of Minerva Polias at Priene : it has a well-proportioned portico extending across the
footpath, and picturesquely breaking the street-line; two square turrets, of lees
fclidtoQs dengn« finish the elevation. The interior is square* and mostly lighted by a
^gc glazed cupola, surmounted with a cross; and the arrangement generally
Kiembles that oi St. Stephen's, Walbrook : the altar-piece is a splendid composi-
tion of imitative antique marbles, enriched with passion-flowers and lilies, superbly
0(>Ioared«
HouBE OF Chabitt Chapbl, Qreek-street, Soho, was built in 1863, from designs
^y Joseph Clarke, F.S.A., and intended for the Wardens, Sisters, Council, and Associates^
together with the inmates of the Hospital, known as the House of Charity.
The chapel has been bcdlt on the ^pe of the early apeidal chorches, with round aisles. The chapel
Of ,^ Croix, ittacfaed to the Abbey of Moont Majoor, flimished the idea of the applicability of apsidal
^■lei M beiiur ipeciallj adapted to the reqoirementB of the House. The original arrangement of the
P'*n WM Barilican. Tne bema oontaininr the Bishop's chair, with the Clergr round the altar, with the
>wle behind, standing in advance on uie chord of the arc. The two apsidal divisions on each side
or tbe chapel, as ables. are for the inmates— for the women on the north side and the men on the south,
{^^^xternmost apses being for communicants. The centre of the chapel, which has a lo% iron fl^che^
^^"^ the cdebranta, is oceoided by the Associated Members, and there are ffriUee on either side^ as
P^'ckwes to ante-chisels from the nature of the ground could not be provided. The chapel is closed
irom tbe western nwthex by wrought>iron gates, and the narthex (which serves as the entrance
V^ uicee three) being dosed, becomes sTailaBle on festivals. The ehipei has been erected with much
r^'^Doth as legards solidity and polychromatic eflbot The walls are built in a variety of stones, com-
i^Ha i7*^ nftmee to colour, and are lined internally with chalk as a ▼chicle of fhtnre frescoes. The roofli
"jja all the woodwork are of oak. The floor of the sacrarlum with the marble steps is very striking. The
uiar is of oak, the retable of stone, with the super^dtar of marble. The ordinary hangings of the altar
" " ■ " " ~ " " "the
^ wma are low stone seats, with the stall or chair for the Bishop, as visitor, at the extreme end of the
iin?u. "^ Choir and Cleigy have oak stalls set on the paving, with chairs for the Council, Associates,
rrJ^niates. The chapel is open to Rose-strcct, with a low wall in (hmt The entrance into the
^wnor qoadrangle, and to the chapel, is through a covered passage at the west end ; and ultimately
uie ciopel will fonn one side of this court, with a covered way round.
'^ House of Charity was orig^lly estjiblished in 18-16, at a house in Bo8e-street»
^ Affording gratuiUms temporary board and lodging to deserving persons, who, by
P 2
212 CUBI08ITIE8 OF LONDON.
sach afflictions as the death of parents, husband, or employer, are brooght ahnost to
the verge of destitution. The house. No. 1, Greek-street, where the institution is
now located, was the town residence of Alderman Beckford, the fiither of the builder
of Fonthill Abbey : it is a fine house, and in the requisite alterations its elaborate
plaster ceilings, carved chimney •pieces, and wainscot panelling, have been preserved.
St. James's Chapel, Hampstead-road, is a chapel-of-ease to St. James's, West-
minster. In the burial-ground adjoining lie George Morland, the punter (d.
1804), and his wife; John Hoppner, the portrait-painter (d. 1810);* and, withoat a
mcmOTial, Lord George Gordon, the leader of the Biots of 1780, who died in New-
gate in 1798.
St. James's Chapel, Pentonville, is a chapel-of-ease to St. James's, Clerkenwell,
and was built by T, Hardwick. Here is interred R. P. Bonington, the landscape-
painter (d. 1828) ; and in the burial-ground lies poor Tom Dibdin, the playwright,
close by the grave of his Mend, Joseph Grimaldi, " Old Joe," the famous down,
who died in 1837.
St. JoHir's Chapel, Bedford-row, at the comer of Chapel-street and Great James-
street, was the frequent scene of schism from its first erection for Dr. Sacheverell : it
was subsequently occupied by the Rev. Mr. Cecil (Low Church) ; by the Rev. Dr.
Billon, of unenviable notoriety ; the Rev. Daniel Wilson (Bishop of Calcutta) ; the
Rev. Mr. Sibthorp, given to change ; and by the Hon. and Rev. BapUst Noel, who
after 22 years' ministry, preached his fiireweU sermon here* Dec 8, 1848 ; and on
Aug. 9, 1849, was publicly baptized in John-street Chapel, of which he became
minister. St. John's has been altered and enlarged, and re-opened in 1866.
Kentish Town Chapel, or district church, is a spacious and costly edifice in the
Early Decorated style; Bartholomew, architect. It has two lofty steeples, and a
large painted altar-window ; and four smaller windows, inscribed with the Decalogue,
Creed, &c., within sacramental borders of com and vines ; the altar recess has some
good sculpture.
King's College Chapel, Strand, is of Romanesque de&gn, G. G. Scott, architect :
the choir consists of students, and of boys on the foundation as '* Choral Exhibitioners."
St. John's- wood Chapel, north-west of the Regent's-park, is of the Ionic order,
and was designed by T. Hardwick : it has a tetrastyle portico, and a tower, surmounted
with a Roman-Doric lantern. Here, or in the a(\joinlng cemetery, which is taste-
fully planted with trees and shrubs, are buried John Farquhar, Esq., of Fonthill
Abbey, Wilts, with a medallion portrait ; Richard Brothers, " the prophet ;" Tred-
gold, the engineer; Joanna Southcott, "the prophetess," with prophetic quotations
from Scripture, in gilt letters upon black marble; John Jackson, R.A., the portrait-
painter, &C. ** About 40,000 persons lie interred in this cemetery."— (Smith's Mary'
lebone, 1833.)
Lamb's Chapel was originally fbunded in the reign of Edward I., in the hermitage
of St. James's-in-the-Wall, which was a cell to the Abbey of Gerendon, in Leicester-
shire, certain monks of which were appointed chaplains here ; on which account^ and
a well belonging to them, called Monks' Well, the street was called Monkswell-street.
The chapel of St. James, with its appurtenances, was granted by Henry VIII. to
William Lamb, one of the gentlemen of his chapel, and a citizen and dothworker,
who gave it to the Clothworkers' Company t they have four sermons preached to them
annually, and after the sermon, relieve, with clothing and money, twelve poor men,
and as many poor women. Lamb's Chapel (the ancient Hermitage Chapel) contained
a Quo old bust of the founder, in his livery-gown, placed here in 1612, with a purse in
one hand and his gloves in the other ; and in the windows were paintings of St. James
the Apostle, St. Peter, St. Matthew, and St. Matthias. The chapel was noted for many
private marriages. Beneath the old chapel was a crypt, with Saxon or Norman
capitals ; and upon this crypt the chapel and almshouses were re-built in 1826, Angell,
architect ; style, Elizabethan. The bust of Lamb, painted in colours, is in the
west wall*
CHURCHES AND CHAPELS. 213
LiAi>iirHAXii Chapbi^ built within the precincts of Leadenhall by Sir Simon
Ejrre, in 1417, some time an npholsterer, was fiur and large, and over the porch was
written ** Deztra Domini exaltavit me." He gave 3000 marks to the Drapers' Com-
pany, that Divine service might be kept np for ever ; bnt his monificent bequests wer^
not canied oat as they should have been.
"LmCGLs'f^inv Chafel, one of " the Old Buildings/' was built in 1621-23 : Dr.
Donne laid the first stone, and preached the consecration sermon, the old chapel being
then in a roisous concUtion. Inigo Jones was the architect of the new chapel, as
stated in the print by Vertue, in 1751 : it stands upon an open crypt or cloister, in
which the students of the Inn met and conferred, and recdved their clients. Pepys
records his going to Linooln*s-inn, ** to walk under the chapel, by agreement." It is
now encloeed with iron railings, and was used as a burial-place for the Benchers. The
dkapel has side windows and intervening buttresses, style, temp. Edward III. ; the
large eastern window has a beautifully traceried &Tcie, ^vided into twelve trefoiled
Bgfats. At the south-west angle is a turret with cupola and vane, and containing
an ancient bell, tracUtionally brought from Spun about 1596, among the spoils acquired
by the gallant Earl of Essex at the capture of Cadiz. The ascent to the chapel is by
a ffight of steps, under an archway and porch, the latter built by Hardwick in 1843.
The windows are filled with glass, unusunlly fine : those on the sides have figures of
prophets and apostles, by Flemish artists ; the great eastern and western windows have
annorial embeUishments. The carved oaken seats are of the time of James I., but
the pulpit is later. Thd Organ, by Flight and Robson (1820), is of great power and
sweetness of tone ; and the choral service is attentively performed. In the porch is a
cenotaph, with Latin inscription, to the Right Hon. Spencer Perceval ; and on the
ascent to the chapel is a marble tablet to Eleonora Louisa (d. 1837), daughter of Lord
Brougham (a Bencher of Linooln's-inn), with a poetic inscription, in Latin, by the
cdebrated Marquis Wellesley, written in his Slst year. Among the remarkable persons
boned in the cloister under tiie cha})el are John Thurloe, Secretary of State to Oliver
Cromwell ; and WiUiam Prynne, who preserved many of our public records. In the
list of preachers in tliis chapel are the great names of Gataker, Donne, Ussher, Tillotson,
Warburton, Hurd, Heber, J. S. M. Anderson, Ac Here are delivered annually the
Warbortonian Lectures. — (Selected principally from a carefuUy-written account of
Jdmeoln's-'inn and its Library, by W. H. Spilsbury, Librarian. 1850.)
St. LiTEs'fl Chapsl, Consumption Hospital, Fulham-road, built at the cost of
Sir Henry Foulis, Bart., in memory of a deceased rister ; consecrated June, 1850 ;
style. Early English, E. B. Lamb, architect. It is exclusively for the officers and
patients of the Consumption Hospital. The chapel, the details of which are very elegant,
conasts of a Nave, north and south transeptal prcjections, and a Chancel ; and is con*
nected with the Hospital by a corridor, externally ornamented with pinnacled but-
tresses and gable crosses, and an octagonal bell-turret. The Organ, by Holdich, is
unique. The windows are traceried, and filled with stained glass ; the roof is open
timbered ; the Clianoel has fiorid sedilia of stone, and is separated from the navo by a
low traceried screen. The interior fittings are of oak, some bearing the arms and
crest of the founder, heraldically : " Arg. three bay-leaves proper ; crqst, a crescent
aig. surmounted by a cross sa. ;" the motto is " Je ne change qu'en mourant." The
crest has been most frequently used, as applicable to.the building^-^" Christianity over-
coming Pag^ism." The floor is partly paved with tiles of annorial patterns. The
seats are specially adapted for the patients. This is stated to be the only con-
secrated chapel attached to any metropolitan hospital.
MiODALEir Hospital Chapbl, Blackfriars-road, is attractive by the singing of a
choir of the reclaimed women. The " Magdalen House" was originally established in
Prescot*8treet, Goodman's-fields, in 1768 ; where Dr. Dodd was chaplain, and rendered
great service to the Charity by his eloquent preaching.
MAS0ASET-8TBSET Chapel, Margaret-street, Cavendish-square, was first converted
into a chapel in 1789. Huntington preached here with Lady Huntingdon's people^
when he first come to London, In 1833, the minister was the Bev. W. Dodsworth*
214. CURIOSITIES OF LONDON.
who has BiDoe seceded to the Roman Catholic Church. At Margaret-street may be
said to have heen the first development of " Pnseyism" in the metropolis. In 1842,
the chapel was mider the direction of the Rev. Frederick Oakeley, a non-remdent Fellow
of Balliol College, Oxford.
" Flowen, and altai^^andlestlcks, and Ore^rlan otaantingi, and acaroe-conoealed bowinga, and atranfo
modes of reading prajera, and frequent aemoea, with a conspicaoos croaa over the oommonlon-tablep
served to awake the raapiciona of the wary; and in ooi^ancaon with a oonne of xealooa and eamert
preaching, and the self-oenjing lives of tlie chief minister and Us Menda, to persuade the freqaentera
of the chapel that here, at leasCwai a true ' Catholic revival/ and that by the multipUcatian of Margaret
Chapels the whole Anglican Establishment might be at length ' un-Protestantized.' To Margaret
Chapel alao was due no little of that phase of the movement which consisted in the ' adapting* of
CatnoUc books to ' the uae of members of the English Church ;' and by the employment of which it has
done so much good in preparing the minds of its congregations for the reception of the Catholic Ihith.
This system was soon taken up t>y no leas important a person than Dr. Pus^ himsel£"— 2%« BambUr,
a Soman Caiholie Journal, Feb. 1861.
In 1845, Mr. Oakeley resigned his license as minister of Margaret Chapel, which then
fell to his curate, the Rev. Mr. Itichards. Mr. Oakeley subseqaentlj joined the Roman
Catholic Church. The chapel in Margaret-street was taken down in 1860 ; the site is
included in that of All Saints' Church, descrihed at pp. 146-7.
St. Mask's, North Audley-street, a chapel«of-ease to St. Oeorge's, Hanover-square,
is of original and not inelegant design, by Gandy Deering, R JL, 1828 ; the order ia
Ionic from the Erechthdum; the portico has two handsome fluted columns, with an
enriched entablature ; and above is a turret of Grecian deogn, with pierced iron-work
sides and pyramidal stone rooi^ with gilt ball and cross. The entrance is a very good
example of the portico in antis, t>., columns standmg in a line, in front, with the
outer or prqjecting ends of the side walls of the chapel. Some of the adjoining houses
are in the heavy style of Sir John Vanbrugh.
St. Mask's Chapel, Fulbam-road, attached to the National Society's Training
College for Schoolmasters, in the B^'zantine style; Blore, architect, 1843; cruciform in
plan, with semicircular eastern end, and twin towers with high-pitched broche roofs, resem-
bling an early German church. The east end has some stained glass of olden character.
It serves as a place of worship for the adjoining district, as well as for the inmates of
the College; and the musical service, including cathedral service and anthems, is by
the students; offertory on Sundays and festivals, to defray the expenses of the diapeL
Pebct Chapel, Charlotte-street, was built by the Rev. Henry Matthew, an early
patron of Flaxman (Ounninffham). It was the scene of the showy, eloquent preaching
of the Rev. Robert Montgomery, author of The Omnipresence of the Deity, a poem.
St. Petbb's Episcopal Chapel, Queen-square, Westminster, was originally a royal
gift for the special use of the Judges of Westminster, and was frequented by the mem-
bers of the Royal Household. In 1840, it was much injured by a fire, which
originated in the adjoining mansion of Mr. Hoare ; and the altar-piece, then nearly
destroyed, was one of the finest specimens of ancient oak-carving in England. Here
have officiated the venerable Romaine, Gunn, Basil Woodd, Wilcox, and Shepherd :
the latter for fifty years held the chaplaincy, with the lectureship of St. Giles's-in-the-
Fields. St. Peter's was, about a hundred and fifty years ago, the chapel of the Spanish
Embassy ; and here preached Antonio Gavin, a secular priest, who having been con-
verted from Popery to the Church of Eugland, was licensed to officiate in this chapel
in the Spanish language, by Dr. Robinson, the Bishop of London ; and sermons in
Spanish preached here by Gavin were publi^ed.— G^^n^. Ifa^,, Feb. 1827.
St. Peteb's (formerly Ozfobi)) Chapel, Vere-street, Oxford-street, designed by
Gibbs, was built about 1724^ and was once oonadered the most beautifiol edifice of its
class in the metropolis. It has a Doric portico and a three-storied steeple. The Duke
of Portland was married at this chapel in 1734. The Rev. F. D. Maurice is the in-
cumbent. " This is a Grovemment church : the Government collects and reserves the
pew-rents, and pays 450^. to the incumbent. No free seats, no poor, and no district.
The offertory alms are paid to the rector of All Souls, Langham-place." — ^Mackeson's
Churchei,
CHURCHES AND CHAPELS, 215
St. Philip's Chapbl, Begent-stroot» midway between Waterloo-plaoe and Pion-
diUy, WIS built by Bepton, and oonsecrated in 1820. It has a tower copied from the
Lantern of Demostbenes at Athens ; and a Doiic portieo^ with sacrificial emblems <m
the ade portioos or wings.
PosTULBB Chapsl, now St. Paul's, in Gh«at Portland^treet, was built in 1776^
en the site of a baan of the Marylebone Waterworks : it was the cause of many fatal
accidents^ and the scene of as many sniddes ; there is a view of the basin engrayed by
Cfaatdain. The chapel was not consecrated at the time of its erection ; bat IHvine
Sennee was performed in it until 1831, when the consecration was performed, and it
was dedicated to St. Paul. At the Portiand Hotel, north of the chapel. Captain C&r
John Boas lodged after hta return from the North Polar Expedition, in 1838.
QiTEBSC Chapel, Quebec-street, Marylebone^ was built in 1788, and is celebrated
fer its sweet-toned Organ and muncal service. The interior of the chapel is described
as * a large room with sash-windows."
Ragosd Chitbch. — In Brewer's-oourt, Wild-street, exists a ragged chivch with its
affiliated institutions— a ragged school, ragged mothers' meeting, and ragged Sunday-
sdiool teachers. The congregation meet every Sunday. Their homes are in Linooln-
coort. Wild-court, and other dreary bays, into which is washed up the refbse of a
Ixnidon population. Many of them have been for various terms in prison, or in penal
•ervitude. In winter, every hearer receives a loaf of bread on retiring. Some hearera
have no coats, some no shirtB, and others ragged trousers. They are visited at their
homes by the ministers of the Ragged Church during the week ; and on Sunday about
a hundred and fifty of them flock to the service and sermon at the church.
BOLIB Chapsl is attached to the Bolls House^ between 14 and 15, Chancery-lansb
and was originally built of flints, with stone flnishings, early in the aeventeentii cen-
tury. Pennant states that it was begun in 1617, and that Dr. Donne preached the
consecration sermon. The large west window has some old stained glass, including the
arms of Sir Bobert Cecil and Sir Harbottle Grimston ; and here are a largo Organ,
and presMs in which the Becords are kept. Among the monuments are : to Dr.
John Toung, Master of the Bolls {temp, Henry VIII.), a recumbent figure, in a long
red gown and deep square cap, the face fine ; above, in a recess, is a head of Christ, be-
tween two cherubim, in bold relief^this tomb is attributed to Torrigiano ; to Lord
Kinlosa^ Master of the Bolls to James I., reclining figure in a long furred robe, and
before him a kneeling figure in armour, supposed his son, killed in a desperate duel
with Sir Edward Sackville ; also, kneeling figure in armour of Sir Bichard Allingtoiiy
his wife opporite, and three daughters on a tablet ; and here lies Sir John Trevor,
Master of the Bolls (d. I7l7), and other Masters. Bishops Burnet, Atterbury, and
Butler, were eloquent preachers at the Bolls' ; and Butler's volume of fifteen sermons
delivered here contains the germ of his great work, the Analogy of Religion, Bolls
Chapel occupies the site of a house founded by Henry III. for converted Jews, and in
1377, annexed by Edward III. to the new office of Custos Botulorum, or Keeper of the
BoUs, who was his chaplain and preacher : in 1837 the estate was vested by Parlia-
ment in the Crown, the salary of the Master of the Bolls being fixed at 7000^. a year
in lieu of fines and rents.
Tenisoit's Chapel^ between Nos. 172 and 17^ east side of Begent-street, was
founded by Archbishop Tenison, who, in 1700, conveyed to trustees (of whom Sir Isaac
Kewton was one) this chapel or tabernacle, to be employed as a public chapel or
oratory for St. James's parish ; at the same time giving EkX)^. to be laid out in the pur-
chase of houses, lands, or ground-rents. Out of the revenues and the Archbishop's
charity were to be provided two preachers for the chapel, and a reader <* to say Divine
Service every day throughout the year, morning and afternoon;" a clerk to officiate;
and schoolmasters to teach without charge poor boys of the parish to read, write, cast
aoooonts, and in five years to assist them in becoming apprentices. There are forty
boys on the foundation; non-foundationers pay 12*. 6(i. per quarter: the school is at
Ka 172, Begent-street. The Archbishop of Canterbury for the time being is visitor of
216 CURIOSITIES OF LONDON.
this excellent charity. The chapel was erected in 1702, and was refironted in building
Regent-street.
TKnriTT Chapel, Condnit-street, now a neat brick edifice, was originally a small
wooden room upon wheels, resembling a caravan. Evelyn describes it as " formerly
built of timber on Hounslow-heath, by King James for the mass priests, and being
begged by Dr. Tenison, rector of St. Martin's, was set up by that puUio-minded,
charitable, and pious man." Pennant writes : —
^'The history of Condait«treet Chapel, or Trinity Chapel, is verr remarkable. It was originally
built of wood by Jamea II., for private mass, and was conveyed on wheels, attendant on ita royal master's
exconions, or when he attended Ills army. Among other places, it visited Homialow>heatn, wiiere it
continued some time after the Revelation. It was then removed and enlarged by the Sector of the
parish of St. Martin's, and placed not ftr from the spot on which it now stands. Dr. Tenison, when
Sector of St Martin's, got permission of King William to rebuild it; so, after it had made as many
journeys as the house of iSoretto, it was by Tenison transmuted into a good building of brick, and has
rested ever since on the present site."
TBnriTY (Holy) Chapel, Enightsbridge, was formerly attached to a Hospital be-
longing to the Dean and Chapter of Westminster. There is, in the British Moaeum, a
grant of James I. providing a supply of spring water from Hyde Park, " by pipe of
lead." It has always been traditionally told in Knightsbridge, that during the &tal
year of the Plague, 1665, the Hospital was given up to plague patients ; and it is also
said that the inclosed spot on the Green was the burial-place of the victims. The
chapel is of ancient foundation, and was rebuilt in 1699 ; the front was extended in
I7fi^. Many of our readers may possibly remember the quaintly-inscribed stone slabs under
the upper windows : one bearing the words, ** Bebuilte by Nicho. Birkhead, Gould-
pnith, of London, Anno Dom. 1699;" and the other (the westernmost), "Capella
Sanctffi Indiuiduss Trinitatis." It was frequently dignified with the name of church.
In the list of minist,ers was the Rev. H. J. Symons, who read the burial service over
Sir John Moore at Corunna. He gained the notice of the Duke of York in this pulpit^
and quitted it for the Peninsula, with a regiment, to which he was chaplain. The
chapel was noted for its irregular marriages ; Shadwell, in his play of TM Sullen
Lovers, 1668, speaks of ** a person at Knightsbridge, that yokes all stray people to-
gether;" and in the Chiardian, Na 14^ March 27, 1718, we read of a runaway mar-
riage being celebrated " last night at Knightsbridge." Here Sir Samuel Morland
married his fourth wife^ who was recommended to him as an hdress, and Morland,
being ** distracted for want of moneys," was " led as a fool to the stocks, and married
a coachman's daughter, not worth a shilling," and whose moral character proved to
be none of the purest ; but he got divorced from her. At Trinity Chapel, July SO,
1700, Robert Walpole was married to Katharine Shorter, daughter of a Lord
Mayor, and mother of Horace Walpole. (See extracts from the Registers, in Me*
moriale of Knightsbridge, pp. 51-92.) The chapel has been rebuilt; Brandon and
Eyton, architects. Its roof is entirely new in its construction, introducing an entire
range of clerestory lights on each side, to compensate for the want of lights in the side
walls ; the building being adjoined, on each side, by ordinary houses.
YoBK-BTBKBT Chapel^ on the north side of St. James's-square, is a chapel-of-ease to
St. James's. In 1815, it was oocupi^ by Swedenborgians. It was originally the
chapel of the Spanish Embassy (then at the present No. 7, St. James's-square) ; and the
'* Tower of Castile," the arms of Spain, appears on the parapet of the front.
FOREIGN PEOTESTANT CHUECHE8,
DUTCH CHURCH, Austin Friars. The German, Dutch, or Flemish Branch was at
first composed of the Polish exile Jean & Lasco, and the members of his church at
Embden in East Friesland. To these German Protestants were united the Dutch and
Flemish reftigees ; they are all included in the Charter of Edward VI., as forming one
sole nation, Oermanomm ; and the church was subsequently known as the Flemish
Church. The ** Temple du Seigneur J^sus," in Austin Friars, is occupied by the
members of the Dutch Church : on its painted windows is inscribed, " Templum Jesu,
1550." It originally belonged to the House of Augustine Friars, founded by
Humphrey Bohun, Earl of Hereford and Essex; it had "a most fine-spired stec^le^
CEjmCHES—FOBEIQN PROTESTANT. 217
SfttD, higb, md 8h«ight/' Henry VIII^ afe the Dinolntion, gave away the home
and groimdfly bat reseired the church, whibh his son, Edward VI^ gave to the Dntch
or German nation (1S50) "to have their tervice in, for avoiding of all lecta of Ana-
Bip^sts, and soch like." From that time to this it has continued to that nse. The
drardh oontuns some very good Decorated windows, Strype says : —
*0n the west end, over the skreen, is a fkir libmy, inscribed thos: 'Eodeete Londino^Belgte
BibtiotlMca, eztnieU ramptibae Maris Daboia, 1680/ In this Ubrvr are divers valnable M 8&, and
)etien of CalTin, Peter Mar^, and otherst foreign Beformers." Tne books have been nreeented to
t!i£ Ufaniy of the Corporation, at GnUdhaU.
On Jnly 24, 1850, the tercentenary of the Boyal Charter of Edward VI. was solemnly
(o.'Qmemorated in this chnrch by a spedal service, as also in the French Protestant
Church in St. Martin's-le-Grand ; and the members of the consistories of both churches
dined together in the evening, and drank *'To thememory of the pious King Edward VI."
The present church is the Nave only of the orig^al building, wliich was granted
by Edward YI. to the strangers in London. This contuned, also, north and south
trBneeptSy choir, chapels of St. John and St. Thomas, chapter-house, cloisters, Ac,
asd there was a remarkable spire, or flMu, at the intersection of the cross, all of
which were destroyed by the Marquis of Winchester, to whom they had been granted
at the Reformation. The church was founded upwards of 600 years ago— namely, in
1253, as an inscription over its western entrance indicates ; but the Nave was erected
a oentmy later. <* It is," wrote Mr. Gilbert Scott^ the architect, ** a noble model
of a xireadiing nave, for which purpose it was no doubt specially intended, being
of great nze and of unusual openness. It is upwards of 160 feet by 80 feet intemaUy,
ni^xirted by light and lofty pillars, sustaining dghteen arches, and lighted by large
and numerous windows with flowing tracery. It is, in fiict, a perfect model <k what
is most practically usefhl in the nave of a chtufch." In November, 1862, the rooft of
the nave and north aisle were almost wholly destroyed by fire, when it was proposed
to take down the edifice and erect a small chapel on its site. Mr. Scott, however,
^»wed that the waUs and internal stonework could be easily restored, and this has
been effected. The roof, which is now of wood, and open and elegant in design, sub-
stituting an nnsightiy flat ceiling, is supported on twenty graceful columns, with
arches springing from each pillar, and towards the east end there are six dormers in
it, three on each side to light up the chancel. The church consists now, as before^
of a lofty nave and two mde aisles. Its interior is 136 feet in length, by 80 feet ; the
nave' is 50 feet high, and each of the side usles 37 feet. Besides the main or western
door, there is a porch at the south side of the building. In addition to the dormers
in the roof, the fabric is lighted by eighteen windows, with flowing tracery, including
the weston window, which, next to that of Westminster-hall, is said to be the largest
of any bnil^Ung in London. The tracery in twelve of the windows, which had been
vbolly destroyed by time and the fire together, is restored in Portland stone. The pre«
>-ailing style of architecture throughout the edifice is pure Qothic The new Organ,
by Hill and Sons, has a magnificent efi'ect in this lofty and almost cathedral edifice.
Fbexch.-— There are in London two branches of the Church of Foreign Protes^ts
founded by Charter of Edward VI., July 24, 1550. The French Branch was at first
exclnsvely composed of the refugees who quitted France before the revocation of the
Edict of Nantes.* They first assembled with their German and Dutch brethren in
the " Temple du Seigneur J^sus " in Austin Friars ; but their number having g^eaUy
increased, they subsequently met for public worship in the chapel of St. Mary,
dependent on the Hospital of St. Antony, in Threadneedle-street, and belonging to
the Dean and Chapter of Windsor. This diapel was taken down in 1841, consequent
OQ the fire which destroyed the Royal Exchange ; the congregation having retained
almost nninterrupted' possession of the site for nearly three centuries. The first church
vas destroyed in the Great Fire of London, but was speedily rebuilt. The oongrega«
tkm next removed to a new church in St, JUartin't-lc-Orand, nearly opposite the
General Post-office : this church, designed by Owen, and opened in 1842, is a tasteful
* The number of French Protestants who took refon in England after the revocation of the Ediet
of Nantes it estimated at 80,000. Of these, 13.000 settled in liondon, in the districts of Long Acre,
SercD IKals, Soho, and Spitalfields. At least one-third of these refligees joined the French Church in
^jean 19B6, 10B7, and 1688.— Ifoni/'Mto, 1860.
218 CUBI08ITIE8 OF LONDOIT,
spedmen of Gothic, and has a large east window with flamboyant tracery, flanked by
lofty turrets. We may here mention that about a third of the Nantes refugees met
in the first church. James II. gave permission for another French church to be founded
in London ; in 1688 was opened the Temple de VHdpital, in Spitalfields, afterwards
the Eglise Neuve,
During luooeeding reigns* there were establiahed in London alone no less than tweotj-two foreign
eongregatione, lome of which adopted the Anglican rite, while othen preeerred the disdpline of the
Befonned Church of Fnmoe. In a sermon, preached in the French Church of the Artillery in Spital-
Helds, in 1782, the preacher lamented that, oat of twen^ flourishing churches which existed on his
arrlTal, nine had been dosed, and others were declining; while M. Baup, in 1841. mourned that, of
these eleven, three only remained. " As our two sisters, the Egllse des Grecs and that of the Qaarr^,
hare adopted the Anglican rite, we remain the onW representatives in London of the Bcformed
French churches; while wo are also alone, among all the foreign churches in this kingdonx, in
having, in common with the Dutch Church, preserved our rights to the chatter of Edward VI."
La Savoy, Bloomsbury-street, was designed by Ambrose Poynter, and built for the
congregation first established in the Savoy : it is in the Gothic style, and has a Pointed
gable, and a large Decorated eastern window.
" In the year 1646, the French Protestant reltagees commenced their church services in Pembroke
House, near Whitehall. In 1660, the oongregatfon had increased to 2000, with two ministers.
Charles II. granted them the use of the Savoy Chapel, in the Strand : they adopted the ritual of
the English Chun^ and received letters-patent from the King, under the Utle of the French Pro-
testant Episcopal Chapel of the Savoy. The congregation increased so rapidly that, in leas than
twenty years, there were three separate churches— the Savoy, the Greek Church in Soho, and a church
in Spring Gardens. In 1738, the Savoy Chapel was abandoned for want of ftmds to repair it; and in
1700, the congregation only possessed the Greek Church, in Soho, and after bebig transferred to a build-
ing hi Edward-soreet, Soho, they built the above church in Bloomsbury-street, which was consecrated
under the name of St. John, by the Bishop of London, on 22nd of December, 1846. The Two
Hundredth Anniversary of the Church was celebrated on the 14th July, 1801."— Mackeson's C9b»rdU*.
Swiss. — ^There were considerable numbers of Swiss in this country previously to the
Rebellion of 1745, when George II. availed himself of the offer of the Swiss to furnish
him with a regiment; the monarch acknowledged this devotion by presenting them
with a standard, bearing this inscription :•—
"These colours were presented by King George the Second to the Swiss residents in this countrr, as
a mark of the sense which his Mdestv wos graciously pleased to entertain of the offer made by tnem
of a battalion of 600 men towards the defence of the kingdom on the occasion of the Betiellioa"
(Scottish, 1746).
About 1722, the Swiss, with the approval of George I., granted the ground for
building a church near Charing CrosH, but they were not sufficiently numerous to raise
the fimds. But, in 1762, the Swiss having increased in numbers, a congregation of
Protestant worshippers met in Castle-street, Holbom, in a building styled the Eglise
Helv^tique. One of the principal promoters of this church was M. Francois Justin
Yulliamy, a native of Berne, who had settled in London, and became the founder of the
house of Vulliamy, in Pall Mall, clockmakers; there is in the Eglise Suisse a dock
given to the church by Franfois Vulliamy, above named. On the 27th of June, 1762,
M. Buignon preached the inauguration sermon from the text, " It is good for us to be
here." The little chapel in Castle-street was so crowded that there was not standing-
room. It was a neat building, and cost little more than 10002. Before the expiry of
the lease of the church in Cnstle-street, in 1770, to endeavour to raise subscriptions
and build on lease another church, appeals were made to the Swiss in London, and
to all who felt any interest in Switzerland. One curious answer was made to this appeal
— ^the present of a "lottery ticket, No. 2110," by a M. des Barres, as his "voluntary
subscription to the building of the chapel ;" it is presumed to have turned up a blank.
The royal family were memorialized, and a petition in French presented to Oeorge III.
to fud the fand, but without effect. However, on the 22nd of March, 1775, was laid
the first stone of the Eglise Helvitique, in Moor-street, Seven Dials. In this church
Protestant service was conducted in the French language till 1855. The Prince of
Orange, while an exile in England, owing to the troubles arising out' of the French Revo-
lution, was a frequent attendant ; and the Swiss congregation subsequently numbered
among its occasional worshippers the Princess Charlotte, the daughter of Oeorge IV.
A tablet which is placed in the present Eglise Suisse explains the interest which her
Boyal Highness took in the minister and his floek. The former, Alexandre Sterky,
who was bom in the Canton de Vaud, in 1767, and died in London in 1838, had been
French tutor to the Princess. He was the minister of the church for forty-six years.
The present church, the Eglise Suisse, Endcll-street, was opened in 1855. There are
CRAFELS—DISSENTERS'. 219
some tbree hundred attendants, about two-thirds of whom are Swiss, or of Swiss
origin. The entire service is conducted in French. The singing at the Eglise Suisse
is accompanied by an Organ and the whole congregation. Here are preserved the
ooloars presented by George II.
DISSENTEB8' CSAPJELS.
ALBION CHAPEL, Moorgate-street, next to 116, London Wall, designed by Jay,
haa a pleasing diastyle Ionic portico. It belongs to a United Presbyterian con*
gregation.
Baptibt Chapbl, Little Wild-street, Lincoln's-inn-fields : here is annually preached
a sermon in oommemoration of the Chreat Storm, Nov. 26, 1703. The pr^u^er in
1846, the Rev. C. WooUaoott, in describing the damage by the Storm, stated :—
"hi London alone, more than 800 hooses were laid m ruins, and 2000 stacks of chimneys thrown
down. In the ooantry upwards of 400 windmills were either blown down or took fire, by the violence
with whieh their sails were driven lound by the wind. In the New Forest, 4000 trees were blown down,
ud more than 19,000 in the same ststo were counted in the county of Kept. On the sea the ravagea of
ton nightfti] storm were yet more distressing : 16 ships of the Boyal Navy, and more than 900 merchant
Tends, were lost, with upwards of 6000 British seamen. The Bddystone Liffhthoose, wtth its hisenioua
architect, Mr. Winstanley, was totally destroyed. The Bishop of Bath and Wells and his lady were
Killed by the iUUng of their palace. The sister of the Bishop of London, and many others, lost their
flTea,"
This annual costom has been observed upwards of a century. The chapel is built upon
the ate of Weld House and gardens, the mansion of the son of Sir Humphrey Weld,
Lord Mayor of London in 1608. It was subsequently let : Bonquillo, the Spanish
ambassador, lived here in the time of Charles II. and James II. : and in the anti«
Popish riots of the latter reign the house was sacked by the mob, and the ambassadw
compelled to make his escape at a back door.
Baptist Chapel, on the west-ade of Bloomsbnry-street, was designed by Gibson,
and opened Dec 2, 1848 : it is in elegant Lombardic style; the central portion has a
gable pediment, large wheel-window, flanked by two lof^ spires, and is very pic-
tnresque. It was boilt by Sir Morton Peto, at the expense of 12,0002., and will hold
from 1500 to 2000 persons. South is the French Protestants' Gothic Chapel; and
the tastelesa pile to the nbrth is Bedford Chapel. The sole condition which Sir Morton
l*eto imposed upon the Baptist congregation was that they shoold repay, at their oon-
venience, one-third of the expense, whidi he, on his part, undertook should be laid out in
opening another chapel for the denomination in some other part of the town. Sir Morton
I^eto snbsequently purchased the building formerly known as the " Diorama," in.the
fiegent's-park, and had it converted at his expense into a chapel for the Baptist
^ommation, by extenmve alterationa. The roof, for instance, which was a forest
<^ complicated timbers, depended in a great measure for support upon framed parti-
^unis extending across the building in different directions. All these had of necessity
^ be removed, and a wrought>iron girder, 84 feet span, was substituted. Upon this
Si'der, directly or indirectly, the whole roof is now supported, leaving the area of the
^pel unobstructed. The style of architectnre adopted is the Byzantine.
Among the houses taken down near Bloomsbury-street, and towards the centre of
what is now New Oxford-street, stood the Hare and Hounds public-house, a noted
'^Bort of the Londoners of the sixteenth and seventeenth centuries : tUl the reign of
P^les II. it bore the sign of the Beggar's Bush, when the name was changed, owing
^ A hunted hare having been caught there, and cooked and eaten in the house.
BAPnax Chapel, Thb, Notting Dale, built m 1863, is a curiosity in its way. It is
a Blip (eleven bays) of one of the annexes of the International Exhibition Buildings
^^>2, reconstructed by Mr. Owen Jones, who has made the interior quite gay by the
fpplication of his ikvourite red, white, and blue to the well-remembered old roof tim-
oen, and with greys and yellows and pretty classical borderings round walls and win-
dows, broQght the whole into harmony, at a trifling expenditure on common distemper
colour and stencil patterns.— Conipafiioii to the Almanac, 1864.
Calkdokiak Chapel, Cross-street, Hatton Garden, waa the chapel at which the
iiev. Edward Irving first preached in the metropolis.
hrfn ^Tk"*^* London repotaticm was made br Canning. Irving removed to London In the year 1811^
*^»g tuen thirty yean of age. He came at the invitation of the Caledonian Ch^iel in Hatton Oardo^
220 CURIOSITIES OF LONDON.
where a imall ipruikliiif of Sootch Mwmbled tooether. Amonff these was Sir James Mackintosh, who
was espeeiallT deliffhtedwlth one phrase which Irring let ftdl when he spoke of orphans cast upon ' the
fatherhood of God/ One night* in the Hoose of Commons, he reported the phrase to Canning. The
latter was anxious to hear ue tartan, and both he and Mackintosh went the iollowing Sondsj to the
Caledonian ChapeL A few nights afterwards, from the Treasorr bench. Canning had to riseu and to make
some remarks on oleriaal aflkvs. In the coarse of his speech ne refbxred to the sermon which he heaxd
from Irrfaig's lips as the most eloqnent that he had ever listened to. That speech was the makingof
Irving. All the fluhion of Ijondon flocked to him. His chapel was crowded to overflowing. Bis
powers grew as encouragement increased, and he rose into notoriety as the greatest pulpit orator of
the day."— £ir« <^ Irving, by Mrs. Oliphant
Cajtonbttet Chapel^ St. PtouVs-road, Islington, was built for b congregation of Evan-
gelical Nonconformists ; Habershon, architect. The height of the building to the apex
of gables is 57 feet; the interior height to lantern, 60 feet; the span of the roof is 66
feet. There are transverse arches at the four transepts, and three large windows and
eight clerestory windows.
The London Congisgational Chapel Boilding Society has stated that "The large and rapidly
increasing district of ulii^rton has a population of about 110,000, witii chur^ and chapel accommodation
for less uan 30,000; that is, for little more than one-fourth of the population. That the present
number of inhabitants is about twice as great as it was fifteen years ago, and, during that period, very
little has been done bv all religious bodies for providing increased accommodation for public worshipi
Only one sdditionsl cnapel has been erected by the Congregationalists for an additioinal population of
about 56,000 persons."
Catholic aitd Apobtolic Chttbch, Gordon-square, was commenced in the year 1853,
for the community who take this title. It was designed by Raphael Brandon, and consists
of Chancel (with an eastern chapel, oocupying the usual position of a Lady chapel),
north chancel aisle (provision is made for a south aisle at some future period), nottk
and south transepts, with lantern at intersection. Nave and aisles. The height from the
floor of nave to the ridge is 90 feet. The carving in the chapel is exceedingly well
done, especially that in the arches of the last three divisions on the south side of the
arcade which encompasses the walls. The Chancel has a stone groined roof, with some
excellent carving in the bosses. As an adaptation of the Early English style, this church
must be oonadered one of th^ most suooeasful modem works.
CoNauEOATiOKAL NoNOONTOEMiST Chuech, Kentish Town, demgned by Hodge
and Butler, and opened in 1848, is in the Ecclesiastical style of the fifteenth century, and
has several rijchly-traceried windows filled with stained gliiss, including a splenitid
wheel-window, 15 ieet diameter.
EssEX-STEEET Chapel, Strand, the head-quarters of the Unitarians of the metro-
polis, is built upon part of the site of Essex House, taken down in 1774. In a portion
of it was kept the Cottonian Library from 1712 to 1730 ; one of its large apartments
was let to Paterson, the auctioneer, and was next hired by the patrons of Mr. Lindsey
and Dr. Disney (Unitarians), to preach in. In 1805, on the death of Dr. Disney, Mr.
Thomas Belsham removed to Essex-street Cliapel from the Gravel-pit congregation at
Hackney, where he had succeeded Dr. Priestley. At Essex-street, Belsham continued
pastor during the rest of his life, acquiring great popularity by his eloquent and argu-
mentative preaching; he died in 1829, aged 80, and was succeeded by the Kev.
Thomas Madge.
HoEBUSY Chapel, Eensington-Park-road, Notting-hill, was bnilt by subscription of
the Independent denomination, and opened Sept. 13, 1849. The design, by Tarring,
is transition from Early English to Decorated, with a pair of towers and spires ; the
principal windows are filled with stained glass.
Independent Chapel, Robinson's-row, Eingsland, was built about 1792 : here the
Kev. John Campbell, the benevolent South-African missionary, was thirty-seven years
minister, and is buried; and a monument to his memory has been erected by his flock.
Jewin-btbeet Chapel, Aldersgate-street, was built in 1808, for a congregation of
English Presbyterians, who removed thither from Meeting- House-court, Old Jewry.
Among the eminent pastors were the eloquent John Herries ; Dr. Price, F.R.S., the
writer on finance ; and Dr. Abraham Rees, editor of the Cyelop<Bdia with his name.
MOEATIAN Celapel, Ffitter-laue, is the only place of worship belonging to the
. CHAPELS— DISSENTERS'. 221
HoraTiaiiB (United Brethren) in London, by whom it was pnrchiued in 1738, on their
settling in England. The interior is remarkably plain, and bespeaks the simple cha-
racter of its occupants ; there is a small organ, for they have church music and singing ;
there are no pews, but seats for males and females, apart. The chapel is capacious,
bat the auditory does not exceed from 200 to 300 persons : the support is voluntary.
There is a burial-ground for the members, with a small chapel, at Lower Chelsea,
near the Clock-house. At Chelsea, in June, 1760, died Count Zinzendorf, who first
introduced the Moravians into this country. The chapel in Fetter-lane lies in the rear
of the houses, one of the entrances to it being through No. 32 : it was possibly so
built for privacy. It escaped the Great Fire of 1666, and was originally occupied by
KoQoonformists. Turner, who was its first mimster, was very active during the Great
Plague ; and having been ejected from Sunbury, he continued to preach in Fetter-lane
till towards the dose of the reign of Charles II. Here also Baxter, the eminent Non-
eonformist divine, preached after the Indulgence g^ranted in 1672 ; and he held the
Friday-morning lectureship until August, 1682.
Xatiokal Scotch Chubch, Crown-court, Little Rnssell-street, Covent Garden, has
a cement Norman fafade, with the staircases effective outside features. The minister
is the Rev. Dr. Camming, who preached before Queen Victoria, at Crathie, Balmoral,
S«pt. 22^ 1850 ; and who ably controverted the claims of Dr. Wiseman the same year.
Old Gratxl-fit MEETiNG-HOxrsE, Hackney, was built in 1715 : here Dr. Price,
F.H.S., and Dr. Priestley were ministers; next Mr. Belsham, the cong^gation being
Anti-TrinitariaiiB ; succeeded by the Rev. Robert Aspland, who remained here till the
erection of the New Gravel-pit Meeting-house, " Sacred to one God the Father," in
Hradise-fields.
OxsKDOif Chapel, Haymarket, was built about 1675, by Richard Baxter, the Non-
conformist divine, in Oxendon-street, on the west side, at the back of the garden-wall
of the house of Mr. Secretary Coventry, fbom whom Coventry-street derives its
name. Baxter's principles were so little to the liking of Secretary Coventry, that he
instigated the guurds of Charles II. to come under the windows and flourish their
trmnpets and beat their drums whenever Richard preached. Finding that not a word
be said could be heard, and that remonstrating with these gentry was dangerous*
Baxter sought to dispose of the building. Dr. Lloyd, rector of St. Martin's-in-the*
Fields, kindly introduced the affiiir to the vestry of St. Martin's. By his mediation
poor Baxter obtained the handsome rental of 40L per annum for the building from the
vestiy, and it was forthwith consecrated as a '* Tabernacle" to St. Martin's-in-the*
Fields. Oxendou Chapel now belongs to the Scotch Secession.
Pbebbttebiait DissEirTESs' Chapel, Mare-street, Hackney, was established early
in the seventeenth century: here Philip Nye and Adoniram Byfield, two eminent
Poiitan divines, preached in 1636 ; and Dr. W. Bates and Matthew Henry were
pastors late in the seventeenth century. The old meeting-house has been taken down»
and a new one built opposite, and occupied by Independents.
PsESBTTXBiAir Meetdtg- HOUSE, Newing^n-grecn, established soon after the
Hestoration, was rebuilt about 1708 : in the list of ministers are Richard Bisooe, Hugh
Worthington, M.A., John Hoyle, Dr. Richard Price, F.R.S., Dr. Amory, Dr. Towers,
Hr. Lmdsey, Dr. Iraac Maddox (afterwards Bishop of Worcester), Thomas Rees; and
Mr. Barbauld, husband of the authoress.
PBOTiDEircE Chapel» Little Htchfield-street, Marylebone, was built by a congre-
gation of Independents for Huntington, S.S. ('* the Coal-heaver," as he called himself )»
npon his credit with **the Bank of Faith," when he quitted Margaret Chapel : when
it was flnished, '< I was in arrears," says Huntington, '* for 10002., so that I bad plenty
of work for faith, if I could but g^ plenty of faith to work ; and wbUe some deny a
iWidence^ Plt)vidence was the only supply I had." This chapel was burnt down»
^th leven houses adjoining, July 13, 1810, and the site became a timber-yard.
I^TiDEircE Chapel, on the east side of Gray's-Inn-lane, nearly opposite Guilford-
222 CURIOSITIES OF LONDON.
street^ was built for Huntington, S.S., by his flock, after the destmction of the Tltch-
field-street Chapel : this second edifice he named from the pnlpit for these reasons:
that " unless Qod proYtded men to work, and money to pay them, and materials to
work with, no chapel oonld be erected ; and if He provided all these, Providence must
be its name." The chapel was, accordingly, built in Qray'sJnn-lane, and upon a larger
scale than the last ; it was made over to him as his own, and bequeathed in his will to
his widow, who, however, resigned it to the congregation. It was subsequently
altered and opened as an Episcopal Chapel, the Rev. T. Mortimer, B.D., minister.
REGEirT-BQiTASE Chapel, Gray's-inn-road, was built for the Rev. Edward Irving,
in 1824-6, W. Tite, the architect, adapting the west front from York Cathedral : the
twin towers are 120 feet in height. Here the " unknown tongues" attracted large
and fashionable congregations.
When the charm of novelty was worn off, the ohapel in Grots-street, Hatton Garden, wm stQl
insufficient for Mr. Irring's congrention, and they resolved on the erection of another chapd of larger
dimensions. For this purpose 7000(. was in a short time suhscribed, and a piece of f^round purchased
on the south side of Sldmouth-street, Bronswick-square^ for the sum of 18002. The Duke or Clarence
had undertaken to lay the foundation-stone, but was prevented by illness, and it devolved upon the
Earl of Breadalbane. " I undertook to open Irving's now church in London/' says Dr. Chalmers.
** The congregation, in their eagerness to obtain seats, had already been assembled three hours. Irving
aaid he wouldassist me bv reading a chapter for me. He chose the longest in the Bible, and went on
for en hour and a half. On another occasion he offered me the same aid, adding, ' I can be short.' I
said, ' How long will it take von ?' ' Only an hour and forty minutes.' " Still ming drew the crowds.
"The excitement which Irvmg created in London held the throngs together for hours. They were
first assembled for hours before he made his appearanoe, and then thev listened to hia lofty discourse
for hours more. His sermon for the London Missionary Sodetv was three hours long, and he had to
take rest twice in the middle of it, asking the congregation each tune to suag a hymn."
Scotch Chitech, The, Swallow-street, Piccadilly, was originally a French Fro-
testant Chapel, founded in the year 1692 : it was purchased by James Anderson, and
converted into a Presbyterian Meeting-house ; and in the Treasury Crown Lease Book
(No. 1, p. 71) will be found a letter from the Surveyor-General, dated 1729, giving a
history of the fbundation of this church, and Anderson's petition for a lease, which
was g^ranted by the Lords of the Treasury ; but the chapel being much out of repair,
and the congregation poor, the fine was remitted ; the building was then valued at
20^. The above document is printed in Notes and Queries, 2nd S., No. 3. The chapel
has been rebuilt of red brick, with a low spire.
Soitth-flace Chapel, Finsbury, is of Ionic design, and was built for a Unitarian
congregation, under the ministry of Mr. W. J. Fox, the eloquent M.P. for Oldham.
Spa-pields Chapel, Exmouth-street, Spa-fields, though consecrated for "Lady
Hmitingdon's Connexion," nearly 80 years since, was originally built for, and opened
as, a place of public amusement, called the Pantheon, in 1770, in imitation of the Pan-
theon in Oxford-road. The Spa-fields building is circular in plan, and had a statue of
Fame on the top. The interior had galleries entirely round the whole ; and in the oeatro
was a curious stove, with fire-places all round, from which the smoke was carried off
without any chimney, and the building was warmed in the severest weather. There
were also a garden, with shrubs and fruit trees, and boxes and tea-rooms for company.
Upon the same site was previously the " Ducking Pond House," with a fine view of
Hampstead, Highgate, and the a^acent country. The Pantheon lost its character,
and was dosed m 1776. The pious Selina, Countess of Huntingdon, then proposed to
convert the place into a chapel, but was discouraged by Toplady. It was then fitted
up, and opened upon Evangelical principles, as Northampton Chapel, and became very
popular. In 1779 it was opened " in the Connexion of the Countess of Huntingdon."
In 1780, it narrowly escaped being pulled down by the Rioters. The congregation
became wealthy and influential : the Duke of Kent, lather of Queen Victoria, often
attended here ; the pulpit was for many years supplied with ministers from Cheshunt
College. The chapel will hold 2000 persons, and is lighted by a monster ring of gas-
jets. Large schools are attached to the chapel. In the large house adjmning,
formerly the tea-rooms of the Pantheon, Lady Huntingdon resided twelve years, and
here she died in 1791, in her 84tb year. She had expended 100,000Z. in works of
charity : she had founded, wholly or in part, 64 chapels in her connexion. The exten-
sive plot of ground in the rear of Spa-fields Chapel became, soon after its opening, a
CHAPELS— DISSENTERS*. 225
boral-place for Konoonforxniflts and others. It contains 42,640 square feet, and would
decently inter 1361 adult bodies; yet within 50 years 80,000 bodies were deposited
bere, aTeraging 1500 per annnm. To make room, bones and bodies were burnt for
vpvards of a quarter of a century* to the constant annoyance of the ndghboorhood;
luti], in 1&45, the lessees of the ground were indicted, and the pestilential nuisance
stopped. This agitation brought about the Abolition of Burials in Towns. (See
Fuks's HUiory of CUrhemoell, 1865, pp. 141nrl51.) The old chapel was noted for
the four lofty pillars which supported the roof, they having been presented for the
porpose by the States-General of HolUmd in 1764 ; and being, consequently, a memorial
of the friendly intercourse then subsisting between the English Nonconformists and
the Dutch.
Stefhxt MxETiir&, The, erected for Congregationalists in 1863, in place of one of
the oldest Independent chapels about London, is of Second Pointed GK>thic, and of
hammered stone in irregular courses, with Bath stone dressings : it has a stone spire,
150 feet high, with clustered pinnacles at the base ; and a wheel window with graceful
tzBceiy, and filled with stained glass. The roof is high-pitched, curved, and panelled:
cost 10,0002. ; architects, Searle, Son, and Yelf.
SiTBBvr Chafsl, comer of Little Charlotte-street, Blackfriars-road, is of octagonal
&nn, and was built in 1783, for a congregation of Calvinistic Dissenters, the Rev.
Bowland Hill, pastor, who preached here in the winter season for nearly 50 years : he
bid a boose adjoining, where he died, aged 88, in 1833, and was buried in a vault under
the diapel. Adjacent, in Hill-street> are Almshouses for 24 poor widows, built and
muntained by the Surrey Chapel congregation.
SwsDKEiBOBG Chusch, Argyle-square, Eing^s-cross, was opened Aug. 11, 1844^ ibr
the followers of Swedenborg, whither they removed from a small chapel in the City»
built about forty years previously. The new church is in the Anglo-Norman styles
Hopkins, architect, with two towers and spires, 70 feet high, each terminating with a
hmnze croas; the intervening gable has a stone croas, and a wheel window over a
daeply-reoessed doorway. The interior has a finely-vaulted roof; the altar arrange-
aaents are peculiar; and there is an Organ and choir. The founder of the sect of
S^edenborgians, the learned Baron Swedenborg, who died in 1772, is buried in the
Svedish Church, Frince's-square, Ratdifib Highway.
Tassbitacui, The, in Moorfields, was built in 1752; previously to which, in 1741,
shortly after Whitefield's separation from Wesley, some Calvinistic Dissenters raised
for ^Vhitefield a large shed near the Foundry, in Moorfields, upon a piece of ground
ient for the purpose, until he should return from America. From the temporary
latnre of the structure it was named, in allusion to the tabemades of the Israelites in
the Wilderness ; and the name became the designation of the chapels of the Calvinistic
ICetbo^sts generally. Whitefield's first pulpit here is sud to have been a grocer's
Eugar-hogahead, an eccentricity not improbable. In 1752, the wooden building was
taken down> the site was leased by the City of London, and the present chapel was
built, with a lantern roof : it is now occupied by Independents, and will hold about
4000 persons. This chapel was the cradle of Methodism ; the preaching-places had
hitherto been Moorfields, Marylebone-fields, and Eeunington-common. Silas Todd
describes the Taberoade in Moorfields as "a ruinous place, with an old pantile
covering, a few rough deal boards pot together to constitute a temporary pulpit, and
several other decay^ timbers, wliich composed the whole structure." John Wesley
preached here (the Foundry, as it was called), at five in the morning and seven in the
evening. The men and women sat apart; and there were no pews, or difference of
benchesy or appointed place for any person. At this chapel the first Methodist Sodety
formed in 1740.
Tabebvaclb, METBOPOLiTAir, WES built for Mr. Spurgeon, upon part of the site of
the Fishmoi^rs' Company's Almshouses, at Newington, in 1861. The exterior has a
large hexas^le Cdrinthian portico, and four angle turrets ; the interior is remarkable
for its great size, luminousness — it being lighted both from roof and windows— and
uneccleaiafltical appearance : it was modelled from the Surrey Munc-hall, in which Mr«
224 CUEI08ITIE8 OF LONDON.
Sporgeon for eome time carried on his ministration. The ceiling and galleries are
sapported by thin iron columns, of salmon colour, with gilt capitals ; the florid gallery
fionts are white and gold. Instead of a pulpit there are two raised platforms with
balconies ; from the upper one the minister, with his church officers sitting around
him, preaches and conducts the service. The chapel will hold 6500.
TBimrr IirDBFEimBirrs'CHAPBL, East India-road, Pophir, was erected in 1840-1, by
Hosking, at the expense of Mr. George Green, the wealthy shipbmlder of Blackwall,
prindpally for shipwrights in his employ, and for inducing the seamen in the neigh-
bourhood to attend Divine worship. The chapel has a Greek Corinthian portico, and
facade with enrichments of shells, dolphins, and foliage; and a classic bell -tower, the
summit 80 feet high. The interior has a Keene's-cement pulpit, highly decorated ;
and a powerful Organ by Walker, in a Gredan architectural case.
United Paesbytebians. — Thieo or four noteworthy churches were built in 1868.
Park Church, Highbury New Park, Habershon, architect^ is a modificatioii of the
Anglo-Italian of Hawksmoor's time, and has a tower with pinnacled spire. At
Clapham, a Presbyterian church has been erected, its chief feature being a lofty
Corinthian portico. Another at Shoftesbury-place, Kensington, J. M. M'CuUoch, archi-
tect, is Second Pointed Gothic, with short transepts, a tower with spire, and a large
five-light traceried window.
Unity Chuboh, Islington, T. C. CLirke, architect, was completed in 1862, for the
congregation formerly meeting in Carter-lane, City, and is remarkable for its strictly
ecclesiastical character. It is cruciform, has a broad Nave with narrow aisles, and a
shallow semi-octagonal chancel ; a handsome tower with double buttresses, cornice,
gurgoyles, &c., and a spire 120 feet high. The principal entrance, in Upper-street, is
Second Pointed in style, but Italianized : the window-beads have elaborate tracery, and
in the tympanum of the entrance is a relievo of Christ's Charge to Peter. The
interior has much good carving, some polychromy; stone pulpit, with shafts and inlay
of ooloured marbles and alabaster, with reliefs on the panels ; large stained-glass
windows; and the organ treated as part of the design. The building lias a curiously
orthodox appearance, considering for whose use it has been constructed : it cost
upwards of 10,000^
WEian-HOXTBE Chapel, Fish-street-hill, is named from the Weigh-house of which
it occupied the site, whereon formerly stood the church of St. Andrew Hubbard,
before the Gb-eat Fire. The chapel, which belonged to the Independent connexion,
was rebuilt about thirty years ago upon a smsJl freehold plot, which cost 7000Z.,
but which was sold, in 1866, to a Railway Company for 95,000/., besides compensation
to the minister of the chapel, the Rev. Thomas Binney. William Hone, who was per-
suaded by his Independent friends to try his talent as a preacher, appeared frequently
in the pulpit at Weigh-house Chapel, where, in 1835, he was struck by paralysis.
WesIjETAK Chapel, City-road, was built in 1778, upon ground leased by the City ;
thither John Wesley removed from the Foundry in Moorfields, the lease of which had
expired ; and thenceforth the City-road Chapel became the headquarters of the Society
of Methodists. Wesley laid the first stone, in which bis name and the date were
inserted upon a plate of brass : " This was laid by John Wesley, on April 1, 1777."
** Probably," says he, " this will be seen no more by any human eye, but will remain
there till the earth and the works thereof are burnt up." John Wesley, who died
March 2, 1791, aged 88, was buried here in a vault which he had prepared for him-
self, and for those itinerant preachers who might die in London.
oorpee
each of . _ ... . . . -.
eacatoheon, no pomp, except the tears of them that love me, and are followinir me to Abraham's boeo'm.
On the day preceding the interment, Wesley's body lay in the chapel, in a Imid of state becomhig the
Srson, dressed in liis clerical habit, vrith sown, cassock, and band, the old clerical cap on his head, a
ble in one hand, and a white handkerchief in the other. The ftoe was pladd, and the expression
which death had fixed upon his venerable features was that of a serene and heavenly smile. The crowds
who flocked to see him were so great, that it was thought prudent^ for fear of aoddenta^ to accelerate
CHAPEL8-'DI88ENTEBS'. 225
the flmera], and perform it between five and six in the morning. The intelligence, however, could not
be kept entiYelv secret^ and several hundred persons attended at that unusual hour." — Southey's Lift <^
Wedev, 3rd e£t. vol. U. p. 408.
Wbsi*byav Chapel» KentiBh Town, is of ecclesiastical character: it is built of
stone, has a handsome west window of seven lights, with good tracery ; and a tower
with a tall stone spire. It has an open-timber roof, and apsidal termination, which
serves as an organ-loft, not chancel ; in front is the pulpit, large enough to contun
three or four ministers; architect, J. Tarring.
WssLEYAK Chafbl, Great Queen-street, LincolnVinn-fields, built in 1811, has a
tasteful fkfade, added by Jenkins in 1841, consisting of a small Ionic tetrastyle
forming a portico^ crowned by a pediment ; above is a Venetian triple window, and
a handsome comidone. The front is executed in beautiful Talacre stone from
North Wales, and is the earliest instance of its being empbyed in our metropolitan
buildings.
WmiXTAir Model Chapsi^ East India-road, Poplar, named from its improved
plan, was built in 1848, James 'Wilson, architect, by subscription, to which one person
gave 500/. The style is Decorated, and the materials are Caen and rag stone. The
windows are richly traceried ; there are two turrets, each 80 feet high, and the build-
ing is finished witii a pierced parapet, pinnacles, and roof-cresting.
WsBLEYAJX Chapel, at the angle of the Islington end of the Liverpool-road, is in
the Decorated style : it has a turret on the front g^ble 76 feet in height, and the
parapets are pierced with trefoils and quatrefbils. The principal windows have flowing
tracery ; and the interior, divided by arches and octangular columns^ whence spring
the roof timbers, is altogether of ecclesiastical character.
" The Wesleyans have now five or six edifices in London, clothed in the Gothic dress of various
period^ and foUowing the usual arrangements of a mediieval church, except having no tower and no
exteoaivo chancel, resembling in this respect the churches erected between the Beformation and the
' di ~ -
late abandonment of church design. The average capacity of these buildings is for 1300 persons. One,
nearlT fiudng St. John's, Clerkenwell, affects the complete Gothic abo?e, and has a neat original firont,
but thin."— CSmm^oimom to the Atmanae, 1861.
Whitefibld's Tabesnaole, Tottenham-court-road, was designed by the Rev. George
Whitefield, and commenced building in 1756, upon a plot of ground near the Field of
forty Footsteps, and the Lavender Mills, Coyer's Ghirdens. It was first opened for
public worship, Nov. 7, 1756. In 1759 or 1760 was added an octangular front, which
gave it the appearance of two chapels ; the addition being called " the Oven," and
the chapel itself, *' Whitefield's Soul-Trap." This enlargement is siud to have been
aided by Queen Caroline, consort of Greorge II., who seeing a crowd at the door unable
to obtain admission, observed it was a pity that so many good people should stand in
the cold, and accordingly sent Whitefield a sum of money to enlarge the chapel ; it
was called "the X^ssenters* Cathedral." When Whitefield preached there it was
Tinted by many persons of rank and distinction. The Prince of Wales and his Royal
brothers and sisters, Lord Chesterfield, Lord Bolingbroke, Lord Halifax, Horace Walpole,
David Hume, and David Garrick, are all reported to have been among Wbitefield's
hearers. The existing pulpit is the same fh>m which Whitefield preached. In the
vestry there is a good portrait of Whitefield, taken when he was young, and also a fine
bust of him ; with portraits of all the minisfcers since the commencement, viz., the
Rev. George Whitefleld, M.A. ; the Rev. Josiah Joss, the Rev. Joel Abraham Knight,
the Rev. Matthew Wilks, the Rev. John Hyatt ; the Rev. John Campbell, D.D. ; the
Rev. Joseph Wilberforce Richardson ; and the present minister, the Rev. James H.
Bonlding. Whitefield here preached his last sermon in England on the 2nd of
Septemto", 1769 ; he died on the 20th of September, 1770, at Boston, America. It
had been agreed between Whitefield and Wesley that whichever of them died first,
the snrvivor should preach the funeral sermon. Wesley preached Wlutefield's funeral
sermon in Tottenham-oourt-road Chapel, on the 80th of November in the above year.
Another instance of a clergyman preaching his own funeral sermon occurred in this
chapel on the 16th of August, 1787. This was the Rev. Henry Peckwell, D.D., the
cause of whose death was a prick of his finger with a needle, at a post-mortem
examination, when some of the putrid blood got into the wound, which caused morti«
fication in a few days. At this time Dr. Peckwell was doing duty for the minister of
226 CURIOSITIES OF LONDON.
Tottenham-ooiirt-Toad Chapel. Bdng oonsdons of his approaching end, he ascended
the pulpit with his arm in a ding, axid preached, from St. Idol's Epistle to the Hehrews,
ziii. 7, 8, an affecting sermon, at the condosion adding that this was his farewell
sermon. " My hearers," he sud, "shall long hear it in mind, when this frail earthlj
hody shall he mooldering in its Idndred dost." The congregation were unable to con.
jectnre his meaning; bnt next Sunday morning, a strange minister ascended the
pnlpit and informed them that Dr. Peckwell had breathed his last on the evening
before ! The bnrial'groond which sorronnds this chapel was made from the mould
which was brought firam the burial-ground of the church of St. Christopher-le-StockB,
in the City of London, when that church was taken down, in 1764, to enlarge the
Bank of England, which now occupies the same site. By this cunning, it is stated,
the consecration fees were saved. On Thursday, May 18, 1824, the Rev. Edward
Irving here delivered in Whitefield Chapel his celebrated missiouary oration of
three hours and a half. In 1828, Whitefield's lease expired, and the chapel was
closed until 1830, when it was purchased by trustees for 20,000/., and altered at a
great cost, the exterior being coated with stucco. It was well adapted for hearing,
the octagonal portion serving as a kind of Amnel or trumpet to the voice : it will
seat from 7000 to 8000 persons. In 1834^ an unhappy difference arose between the
minister, the Rev. Dr. Campbell, and<the trustees of Whitefield Chapel, which caused
the chapel to be placed in Chancery : the trial respecting it occupied between three and
four days. In 1867, the chapel was considerably damaged by fire. It was, however,
repaired, and some years later it was sold to the London Congregational Chapel Build-
ing Sodety for 4700/. It has by them been almost rebuilt. The front has a portico
and octagonal tower, with a dome. The interior is lighted from the dome by a star-
light ; and behind tjie pulpit is a fine Organ, built by J. Walker. Here are monu-
ments to Whitefield, the fisunder ; to Toplady, the zealous Calvinistic controversialist
with John Wesley ; and to John Bacon, tiie sculptor, who wrote his own eintaph, as
follows :•—
"What I was Bi an Artist
Seemed to me of lome importance while I lived ;
Bat what T really was as a Belierer
Is the only thing of importance to me now."
ZOAB Chapel, in Zoar-street, leading from Gravel-lane to Essex-street^ Southwark,
was the meeting-house in which the celebrated John Bunyan was allowed to preach,
by favour of his friend. Dr. Thomas Barlow, Bishop of Lincoln, to whom it belonged ;
and if only one day's notice was given, the place would not contain half the people
that attended ; 3000 persons have been gathered together there, and not less than
1200 on week-days and dark winter mornings at seven o'clock. There is a print of
this chapel in Wilkinson's Londina IlUutrata, and a woodcut ngnette of it in Dr.
Cheever's Memdr of Bunyan, prefixed to the PU^/rim's Progre99 (Bogne, 185d). The
chapel was used as a wheelwright's shop prior to its being pulled down, when the
pulpit in which Bunyan had preached was removed to the Methodist Cbapel, Palace-
yard, Lambeth. Another '' true pulpit" is shown in Jewin-street Chapel, Alderagate-
street. Bunyan'b Pulpit Bible was purchased by Mr. Whitbread, M.P., at the s^e of
the library of tiie Rev. S. Palmer, at Hackney, in 1813.
FRIENDS' CM QUAKEMS' MEETING-BOUSES.
THERE are six Friends' Meeting-houses in the metropolis : 1. Devonshire House
(Houndsditch) ; 2. Bishopsgate-street Without ; 3. Peel (Peel-court, John-street,
Smithfield); 4. Ratdiffe (Brook-street) ; 5. Southwark (Redcroes-street) ; 6. Westmin-
ster (Peter's-court, St Martin's-kne). The first established was that in White Hart-
oourt, which was laken down in 1865.
''The Tearljf Meeting of the Society of Friends is held in London, opening always on a Wednesday
in the latter end of Ma^, and continning into the month of Jane, generally lasting about ten dajs or a
fortnight. Of course it IS the most important event in their religions system, the most interesting
season in their year. To this great meeting the business of all their lesser meetings points, and
Is here consummated. To it delegates are sent from every quarter of the island ; by it commitlces
are appointed to receive appeals against the decisions of minor meeting^ to carry every ol^cct
which is deemed desirable, wifMn their body or beyond it, into effect ; by it nu-liament Is pentioned ;
the Crown addressed; reUgioos ministers are sanctioned in their schemes of foreign tnvel, or
OBURGEES—OBEEK. 227
thoae MhemM restnlned; and fluids are reoeived and appropriated for the proaecatlcai of all
their Tiewa aa a aooietj. The City ia their place of resort } aad the Yearly Meeting ia held in Devon-
AhireHooae.
* The minglhig of plain ooata, broad hata, Mendly ahawla, and friendly bonnets, in the ipreat hmnan
atream thai ever rolls along the oov^ of the City, in that neighbonrhood, at this season, becomes
▼ery predominant BIshopegate w ithin and Blshopsgate Without, Gracechorch-etreet, Honndsditch*
lirerpooI-Btreet Old Broad-streetk San-steeet^ almost every street of that district, fairly swarms with
frienos. The inns and private lodgings are fliU of them. The White Hart and the I'onr Swans are
Ihll of them. Thevhave a iabU-iTkiie, at which they generally breakiiiist and dine. Every Friend'a
lionse at this time has its goests; and manv of the weoithy keep a sort of open house.
"At % Friends' Meettng, the men are ntting all on one side bv themselves, with thdr hats on, and
jaeaiuittng a very dark and sombre mass; the women sitting together on the other, as light and attrao-
ttve. In the seats below the galleiy are sittlDg many weighty mends, men and women, stUl apart ; and
In the galleiy a long row of preachers, male and female, perhaps twentr or thirty in number. Tou mar
•amy coont on a sueceseion of sermons or wayers. Men and women aiis^ one alter another, and preacu
In a variety of styles, but all peculiar to Friends. Suddenly a man-minister takes off his hat, or a
woman-mmister takes off her oonnet ; he or she drops quietly on the bass before them; at the sight
the whole meeting rises, and remains on its feet while the minister enters Into ' suppliattion.' Most
cinffolar, striking; and piotoreaqae are often the sermons you hear."— TTtiUoai SowiU,
GREEK CBUECKE8,
GREEK CHURCH, London Wall, the first ecclemastical strncttiTe erected by the.
Greek residents in London, was opened in 1850, on Sunday, Jan. 6, o.s., and in
the €b«ek Kalendar, Christmas-day. The edifice is Byzantine (from Byzantiom, the
capital of the Lower Greek Empire), with Italian interior details. The north front
luiis three horse^shoe arches fringed, and Byzantine oolnmns, between which are the
entrance doorways; and in the upper story is a similar arcade, containing three
windows : above is this inscription, in Greek characters :
"During the rdgn of the august Victoria, who governs the groat people of Britain, and also other
nations scntered over the earth, the Greeks sojoummg here erected this Church to the Divine Saviour,
In Tcneration of the rights of their fhUiers."
Above is a pediment sormonnted with a cross. In plan, the church is a cross of eqnal
parts ; the ceiling is domed in the centre : on the north and south sides are galleries,
with flower-ornamental fronts, and supported on decorated arches and pillars, with
fine capitals. The altar-screen has these panel pictures, painted in Russia : the Annun-
^tion ; the Virgin holding the infant Jesus ; Jesus sitting on a throne; and St. John
the BapUst. In a centre panel is inscribed, in Greek :
* O Lord, the strength of those who trust in Thee^ uphold the Church which Thou hast redeemed
with Thy precious blooo."
Within the Iconostasis, or screen, is the altar in " the holy place," symbolic of the Holy
of Holies in the Jewish ritual. A magnificent chandelier, with wax-lights, is sus-
pended firom the ceiling. The congregation stand during the whole service; but there
are seats made to turn up, as in our cathedral stalls; and knobs are placed on the
upper arms, to serve as rests. The officiating priest is richly robed, and attended by
boys bearing a wax-taper, each in a surplice with a blue cross on the back. Upon the
high altar are placed a large crucifix, candelabra with lights, &c. At a portion of the
Haas a cnrtmn is drawn before the altar, whilst the priest dlently and alone prays for
the sanctification of the Sacrament; he then re-appears, "bids peace to all the
people," and blesses them. The sermon is preached in the pulpit, the priest wearing
a black robe and a black hat ; this is covered with the KjahmrpOf or veil, to indi-
cate that the wearer is under the influence of the Gospel. The church at London
Wall (dengned by T. £. Owen, of Portsmouth), cost about 10,000Z. ; yet the number
•of Greek residents at the date of its opening, in 1850, did not exceed 220.
BlTSsiAir EiCBABST Chafsl, Welbedc-strcet, James Thomson, architect,has some pdnts
of special interest, not only on account of being one of the only two places in the metro-
polis devoted to divine service according to the Greek ritual, the other being in London
Wall ; but also in a class of architecture of which we have fewer examples than of
most others. The style is Byzantine, and the distinctive feature it aims to embody, is
that of fimuunental expanse, as contradistinguished firom the flat ceilings of the Lafdn
or pointed roofs of Gothic churches. This is effected by means of arched ceilings
throughout^ the centre having a domical roof or cupola superimposed upon a polygonal
tamboor. The chapel consbts of a parallelogram : the length is divided into three
compartments!, of which two are devoted to the auditorium, and the third, fi)rmed into
228 CUEI0SITIE8 OF LONDON.
an apse, is limited to the sanctum. Tliij latter is raised and approached by three
circular steps, on each side of which is a small platform for the choristers, the whole
being enclosed with a dwarf metal railing. Between this and the altar is erected an
ornamental screen formed of solid masonry, with carved mouldings and marble {nllars,
having alabaster caps and bases : this, while on the ono hand it represents the veil of
the temple, separating the body of the chapel from the " Holy of Holies," serves also
as an Iconostasis, not for sculptured images, but for paintings, in niches: they are the
production of Russian artists, and represent the Saviour, the Virgin, St. Nicholas
(patron saint of Russia), St. George, and the archangels Gabriel and St. Michaeli ; and
in the crowning panel of the screen is a picture of the Holy Supper, after the eminent
Russian painter, Bruloff. The holy doors are carved and splendidly gilt, and inlaid
with metals of different hue. They contain small heads of the Evangelists, and a
picture of the Annunciation. The folding of these doors is managed so that, when
closed, they appear as an impassable barrier, which, at the proper time, the high priest
is able to unfold with ease, so as to give access to the altar. The whole of the paint-
ings and screen are the gift of H. Basil Gromoff, a Russian gentleman of St. Peters-
burg. Behind the screen doors is the customary curtain of damask silk, which, when
drawn aside, displays the sacred altar and its insignia. The Russian mode of worship
being wholly a standing or kneeling service, there are no pews or stall seats provided.
The cupola is constructed of iron, and contains twelve lunettes five feet high ; four
have glass paintings, representing figures of the four great prophets, Isaiah, Jeremiah,
Daniel, and Ezekiel, and eight of the minor prophets ; above these, in mural painting,
are heads of the twelve Apostles upon gold discs.
A gilt band encircles the upper part of the cupola, on which is inscribed, in SdaTonic characters :— >
" Turn Thee again, thou God of hosts ; look down from hearen ; behold aod viait this irizie and the place
of the Tineyard which Thy right hand hath planted." At the east end is a semicircular apse, having a
▼suited ceiling, painted azure and studded with gold stars, which are embossed on the surface, gra-
duating and concentrstingfrom the base upwards to the apex, where the monogram representing the
name of Jehovah is placed. The fittings of the apse consist of Uie altar table, within uie holT doors ;
the screen, or Iconostasis, corresponding to the veil of the Temple ; and, behind the altar, a triangular
pedestal of oak, fitted with a bronze socket^ to hold the seven-branch candlestick. To terminate the
ajMe. a freestone arch, supported on black marble pilhurs, with carved capitals, contains a stained glass
window, representing the Saviour, at whose feet, upon a verde-antique marble slab, is inscribM, in
Greek characters . — ^Come unto me, all ye that labour and are heavy laden, and 1 will give you rest.**
A large niche on each side contains tables and small enshrined pictures formerlv belonging to churches
at Bomarsund, presented by the British Government. A. credence or cupboard of oak, fashioned as a
miniature ark, with sloping roof, contains the chsUoe, patens, and otner holy vessels used in the
celebration of the Eucharist. Other pictures on the side wall are St. Alexander Nevsky and St.
Hary Magdalen : the latter figure bearing the alabaster box of precious ointment. In advuice of all
are placed two eleffant barriers of graceful pattern and rich material, mounted on brass standards ISO.
high, with crosslets carved and gilt ; upon them are painted, as medallions, representations of the
Baptism and Besurrection.
JEWS' STNAGOCHTES.
BEYIS MARKS, St. Mary Axe: here is the Spanish and Portuguese S}'nagogue»
which occupies part of the site of the ancient house and gardens of the Bassets*
then of the Abbots of Bury, or Burie's Marks, corruptly Bevis Markes.
Buee'S' PLACE. — When the Jews returned to England, at the time of the Common
wealth, most of the settlers being Portaguese, they built the first Synagogue in King-
street, Duke's-plaoe, in 1656; and in 1691, was built in Duke's-place the first German
Synagc^e.
New Stnaoogtje, in Great St. Helen's, Bishopsgate, was built by Davies, in 1838.
It is in rich Italian style, with an open loggia of three arches resting upon Toscaa
columns. The sides have Doric piers, and Corinthian columns above, behind which are
ladies' galleries, fronted with rich brasswork. There are no pews ; the centre floor has
a platform, and seats for the principal officers, with four large brass-gili; candelabra.
At the south end is tt« Arhj a lofty semicircular-domed recess, consisting of Italian Doric pOastons,
with verde antieo and porphyry shafts, and gilt capitals ; and Corinthian columns, with sienna shaits,
and capitals and entablature in white and gold. In the upper story the intercolumns are filled with
three arched windows of stained glass, arabesque pattern, oy Nixon ; the centre one having Jehovah, in
Hebrew, and the Tables of the Law. The semi-aoroe is decorated with gilded rosettes on an azure
ground ; there are rich festoons of trxdt and flowers between the capitals of the Corinthian columns,
and ornaments on the frieze above, on which is inscribed in Hebrew, " Know in whose presence thou
standest" The centre of the lower part is fitted up with recesses for Books of the Law, enclosed with
CnUB0HE8 AND CHAPELS—BOMAN CATHOLIO. 229
polished maboganj doon, and partly oonoealed by a rich velvet cartain Mnged with gold; there are
BUMlTe gQt candelabra; and the pavement and steps to the Ark are of fine veined Italian marble,
partly carpeted. Eitemally, the Ark ia flanked with an arched panel ; that on the east containing a
prayer for the Qoeen and Royal Family in Hebrew, and the other a similar one in English. Above
the Ark is a rich ihu-painted window, and a corresponding one, though less brilliant, at the north end.
The ceiling, which is flat^ is decorated with thirty eolTers, each containing a large fiower aperture for
ventilation. '^
This oongrefration had been previoufilj established about eighty yean in Leadenhall-
fltreet* and there known as the *' New Synagogue/'
New Sykagogite, Uppkb Betaitstone-stbeet, was erected in 1861, for the con-
Tenience and use of those members of the Jews of the Spanish and Portuguese
congregations who reside at the west end of London ; Lett, architect. The
general character of the building is Saracenic fireoly treated. The elevation to
Bryanstone-street is composed of a centre and two wings; the west wing being
gabled, with cornice supported by cut tresses, and the east rising as a tower and
spire. The fa9ade is built of parti-coloured bricks, with stone dressings. The
porch leads to a loggia or vestibule, from which branch off on either side Port-
land stone stairs leading to the ladies' galleries, as by the requirements of the Jewish
ritnal the sexes are separated during divine worship. The " Synagogue " itself is
entered from this loggia, and affords accommodation on the ground-floor for 240 males.
The interior of the Syna^^ogne is divided into nave and side aisles, by light ornamental colmnns in
two stages, the first suoportiog the UuUes* gallery and the upper arches of a slight horseshoe form, abo?e
which is a clerestory with semicircular windows filled in with stained gUss. Betw<»en the wmdows and
over each column are ornamental brackets, from which spring archM ribs, dividing the cdling into
coffers, the centre of each of which is occupied by a fiower communicating with ventilating apparatus.
At the east end of the Synagogue an elliptical recess or apex forms the sanctuary, which is approached
hy a flight of marble steps. The lower portion of the sanctuary is formed into closets, in which are
deposited the sacred flcrolls of the Law, the upper part being formed with windows filled with fwJnted
glass, having inscribed there, in Hebrew characters, the Ten Commandments, &c. The ceilmff of the
sanctuary is formed in a domical shape, pierced with small star>shaped apertures, filled in with aifl'erent
ooloured glass, which throw light on the scrolls of the law when the doors of the closet containing the
same are thrown open.
West London Synagoque, Margaret-street, Cavendish-square, designed by D,
Mocatta, was completed in 1850. It is square in plan, and consists of Ionic columns
supporting the ladies' gallery, whence rise other columns, receiving semicircular
arches, crowned by a bold cornice and lantern-light. The Ark composes cleverly
xnth the semicircular arches, which hang as pendants before it, and complete the
fourth side of the building; the steps, platform, stylobate, and columns, are all of
scagliola surmounted b}' a decorated entablature, w hlch supports a niche-head, in which
arc placed the tablets of the Ten Commandments* surrounded and shadowed by the
palm-lsaf.
There are in London other Synagogues ; the chief one Is the German, in Dukc's-place, Houndsditch,
Id the midst of the Jewish popiUation. The Sabbath commences at sunset on Friday, when the Syna-
£Ogne is opened ; and again at ten o'clock on Saturday morning. The singing, handed down from the
Temple Bervice, and the chanting of the Law, said to be the manner in which it was revealed to Moses,
are impressive. The Jews, and the officers in attendance, are most kind and polite to stran^rs. The
interest of the visit Is enhanced by procuring a Jewish prayer-book, with the l£nglivh translation on the
opposite page. Strangers are reminded not to take off their hats as they enter : it is on abomination
to the Jews, who worship with their heads covered.
ROMAN CATHOLIC CHURCHES AND CHAPELS,
AMBASSADORS' CHAPELS : Spanish Place Chapel is attended by the members
of the Spanish Embassy; Warwick-street, Golden-square, by the Bavarian
Embassy (the former Chapel was destroyed in the Riots of 1780); Duke-street^
Linooln's-inn- fields, by the Sardinian ; and Little Oeorge-street, King-street, Portman-
square, by the French. Celebrated foreign preachers are occasionally heard here, chiefly
in Lent.
Batabiav Chapel, War^vick-street, Regent-street, has an altar-piece, occupying
the whole space of the end of the chapel, with four Corinthian columns, six pilasters, and
•nb-pihisters running the whole height. In the centre is a large sculptured tablet, 14
feet high and 7 feet wide, representing the Virgin Mar}', and cherubim, by Carew,
lighted from above.
230 CURIOSITIES OF LONDOK
St. Gsosas's Chitbch, St. George's Fields, nearly facing the eastern wing of
Bethlem Hospital, is built upon the site of the focus of the "No Popery" lUoteof
1780 : it is the birgest Koman Catholic Church erected in England since the Befor-
mation ; and with the quaint conventional buildings (priests' houses and schools, and a
convent for Sisters of Mercy) at the north end, was designed by A. W. Pugin. The
church is a high example of Roman Catholic symbolic details : it is in the Decorated
style (temp. Edward III.), is crudform in plan, and oonmsts of a nave and aisles^
chancel, and two chapels ; aud a tower at the north-west end, to be surmounted by a
rich hexagonal spire, 820 feet high.
The church Is aboat 236 feet in length, and wfll seat 9000 persons. It is lit by trsceried windows^
some filled with stained rlass, by Wailes, of Kewcastle ; the great chancel-window was given by John
Earl of Shrewsbory, and represents the root of Jesse, or genealogy of oar Lord. .The largo window
oTer the principal entrance, in the great tower, has flrores of St. George, St Michael, and other saints.
There is no clerestory, bat each roof is gabled; slender irillars and arches divide the nave and sida
idsles, in which are confessionals ; and between the nave and chsncel is a doable stone screen besrinf a
rood-loft, with a cracifix of Belgian fifteenth-century work, and images of the Virgin and St. John,
nearly UnMizeu and coloured. The chancel is panelled with oak, with crocheted arches round the sanc-
tuary ; the higti altar has bas-reliefb of the TransfiguraUon, Resurrection, and Ascension ; the tabemads
is richly dlght and painted, the metal doors being chased and gilt, and studded with large cxrstala.
Behind the altar is an claboratelT*oarved stone reredos, with niches filled with images of angels, and
the Saints Peter and Paul. The hieh altar furniture is very superb and massive ; the chancel is floored
with encaustic tiles : and the chapels are snperblv decorated in gold and colour. In the baptistery is
an octagonal stone font, with soulpture and Gothic panelling. Outside the church, between two con-
fessionals, is a Perpendicular chantry to the late Hon. Edmund Petre, for the repose of whoee soul Haas
is offered herein daUy; tUsbehig the first foundation for the support of the diurch. *'Tho Adorable
Presence is day and night in the Chapel of the Blessed Sacrament. Look for the red light ; it is there.**
St. George's was opened with great pomp, July 4, 184S ; and was the scene of the
solemn enthronization of Cardinal Wiseman, Archbishop of Westminster, Dec 6, 1850.
The cost of this church to July, 1848, had been 38,000/. The number of persons attend-
ing this church is stated at irom 12,000 to 13,000 persons.
Immaculate Conceptiok Chusch, Farm-street, Berkeley-square, designed by
Scole^ and built at the expense of Jesuits, is the first ever possessed by the Order in
London : it was opened 1849. The style is the Decorated, the south front much resem-
bling that of Beauvus Cathedral. The altar and organ-loft windows are filled with
brilliant stained glass : the rose in the latter is very elegant ; and each of the 22 flank
windows has different tracery. The interior is large and lofty, and has no aisles or
rood-screen : the high altar, designed by A. W. Png^n, cost about 1000^, and was
presented by Miss Monica Tempest, of Broughton Hall, Yorkshire ; and her brother^
Sir Charles Tempest, presented the Missal, which cost about 50/. " Confraternities of
the Bona Mors of the Sacred Heart of Jesus, and of the Immaculate Heart of Mary,
are established in this church." The services are performed by Jesuits.
"Boman Catholic churches seem to be distinguished firom those of the national fiiith, at present,
only by the occupation of niches that in the latter would be left vacant. It is remarkable, however, that
thcY idl seem to afibet the style of one period, viz^ the first half of the fourteenth century, their
designers apparently disdaining Uie representation of either an immature or a declining form of art;
but fixing always on the lully developed Gothic, just at the turning point of its career." — Cos^kimmmi Io
the Almanact 1851.
St. John of Jebubauzm, Qreat Ormond-strcet, was generously founded by Sir
Qeorge Bowyer, Bart., M.P., and built from the designs of Groldie. The &9ade of the
exterior, of Portland stone, is of two orders, Ionic and Corinthian : upon the upper
cornice is inscribed :
" Servi : Dominorum : Panperum : Infirmorum :**
and on the lower are the following words :
" Ecolesia : S : Milit : Old : S : Johan : Hierosol :"
In the pediment is the cross of the Order of St. John ; and the Imperial crown and
shield adorn the window, which forms a feature in the upper order, flanked by two
sculptured wreaths. The prindpal entrance doorway is surmounted by a marble
tablet, on which is commemorated, in an inscription, the fact of the foundation.
The church within presents a parallelogram. Slight recesses stand in the place of
transepts, and beyond them is the choir for the religious of the adjoining Convent and
Hospital, whilst between rises the cupola above the cdling of the church. An elaborate
coiTiice runs round the church below the ceiling, and rests on pilasters of the Corinthian
order, all formed of polished red marble, with marble bases and plinths. At the upper
CEUECHEa AND CHAPELS— BOMAK CATEOLia 231
end of the Nave a doorway givus aoceas to the Hospital ; and above it, carried on carved
stone consols, is a tribnne of polished alabaster, opening into the lowest ward for the
nse of the side The floor of the Nave is of coloured tuies, arranged in a fret pattern*
A marble step lifts the sanctuary floor above the nave level, and this upper floor is
entirely composed of white marble. The high altar is placed beneath a marble canopy,
under a cupola, adorned with the same materials, the most frequent decoration being
the Maltese Cross of dght points, in white, inlaid in the brown veined marble ; it
stands imme^tely beneath the centre of the dome, and is surmounted by a baldachino
of marbles of various colours, with a panelled ceiling of wood. Two side altars, both
andent, stand on either dde in the small transeptal recesses. The nuns' choir, behind
the high altar, is supported by marble scrolls, and is fitted up on tnree rides with stalls,
and i^aid crosses of the Order of St. John, all polished. The front bears the arms
of the founder, who has presented this church to the Hospital. Against the extreme
end wall of the diurch is a large tribune, carried on stone brackets, with a gilt lattice
fronts for the Organ. The whole of the interior is decorated with gilding and colour.
iTAUAir (St. Pbteb'b) Chitsch, Hatton-wall; architect, J. M.Bryson. ThewaUs
are of grey stodc bricks. The triforium arches are supported by York stone columns,
of the Ionic order, in the Boman Basilica style, and is the only church of the same
style in the kingdom. There are two side aisles, a Nave and a Chancel : in the latter
are statues of the four Evangelists. There are two galleries, one over each of the side
aisles (as triforia), with access by stone stairs. Under the Chancel is a subterraneous
church, or crypt, capable of holding 200 persons. The cdlings are flat, in panels,
whidi will eventually be painted, as also will be the waUs. There will be a tower at
the south-west end of the church, carried up to a height of 100 feet, where will be himg
a bell wdghing four tons. The high altar has four polished black and gold marble
columns, standing on pedestals, with white marble cape and bases of the Composite
order, surmounted with a cornice wreath, crown canopy, and cross, which will be gilt.
The tabemade and steps of the high altar are of different coloured marbles, all of
whidi have been obtained from Italy. The body of the church is lighted by derestory
windows^ in each of which is a design in the shape of a cross, made of iron and wood.
The chancd is lighted by windows of a similar design. The church is planned to hold
3400 persons, ^e f onds have been collected abroad by the priests connected with the
church. It was opened in 1863.
St. Jonir the EvAiraELiST's, Duncan-terrace, Islington, was opened in 1843. It
was dedgned by Scoles, in the Anglo-Norman style, and has an eastern gable, flanked
by two spires, each 130 feet high. The church itself is a large structure, Basilican in
plan, very lofty and effective in composition; its aisles are narrow, set off for chapels
and special altars. In one of these is the fresco, painted by Armitage, against the ex-
ternal wall of the church.
" The fitftuM are life-size ; the saMeet, St. Frauds of Assist, in 1210, leceiTinr the spproval of Pope
Innocent the Third to the Bale of the Order of the Fratres Minores. or Francucans, as they are now
called. Their founder stands, his head hambly bent, his hands held together befbre the enthroned
Pope, who reads article by srtide the Bale of the Order. A monk on each side of the samt kneels, as
do others behind him. The Pope is supported by a cardinal on each side, seated all splendidly dressed.
Attendants stand behind the throne, llie scene is an open-sided hall in the Capitol, where the Pope
is presomed to have liTed at the period in qoeetion. Through the arcade we look over Borne and its
nnns as in the thirteenth century. Following that sound rale of Art which demands character erory-
wbere, Mr. Armitage has given a portrait-like character to his heads, which in the broad style he follows
Sndividualixes each figure and Ikoe, and gives a striking look of trath to the whole. The ezpreisions
are effective^ without anything of the theatre; the design, large and simple in composition, suits the
sul^eet and the material perlecUy."—b^U4«iuBtMi.
In the apse of the diurch is the frcBoo representing Christ and the Apostles. In the
semi-dome above the last is a fr«sco representing God the Father Mrith the Angels, &c.,
punted by A. Aglio about 1844. Under the diancel is a crypt, or mortuary chapel :
and adjoining is a spadous cemetery. This church has a Holy Guild attadied ; the
Bev. Frederidc Oakeley offidates.
St. Maey'b, Moorfidds, comer of East-street, Finsbury-drcus, opened in 1820, has
an embellished entrance fkfade, in the pediment of which are scalptured two figures
kneeling at the Cross. The Interior is very superb : it was re-decorated throughout by
Charles Kuckuck, in 1858.
232 CURIOSITIES OF LONDON.
It is divided tnnsrenely, by a genes of oolamns, into & spacioiu Nave and dde aisles, the oeiUng of
the former beio^ ellipUcal and the latter flat, and the latter terminated at the western ends hj alcores,
which form minor altars. Over the hiffh altar is a scmi-elliptical dome, supported by six fluted columns,
which have gilded capitals, modelled from the example of the monument oi Lysicrates, at Athens. The
•nrftce of tUs semi-aome is embellished bv thirteen oaken puiels, which are filled with foliage and
fruit and flowers, in admirable imitation of relieft. Behind this semi-dome, on a curved ground, which
is the extreme termination of the church, and forms the back of the high altar, ingeniously lighted
from the roof, is a magnificent large painting of the Crucifixion, which produces a splendid enlect. In
the centre of the ceiling of the Navels a large painting in fresco, representing the AsBumption of the
Virgin Uary, attended by the heavenly choir, and the Four Evangelists; and on each side of the spring-
ing of the arched ceiling are oblong panels painted with figures m bas-relief of the Nativity, the Adora-
tion of the Magi, the Infant Saviour, &c.
The ceilings of the aisles are divided into various compartments, and painted in white, to resemble
moulded panels and enrichments in plaster, on a deep ^la ground. The series of columns, with their
snrroounung entablature, are profusely decorated, thoir bases being to imitate white and their shafts
sienna marble. The capitals, tofrether with the dentals of the cornice, are gilded. The moulded por-
tion of the entablature is relieved with white, green, red, emd blue, picked in with deep brown, and the
ftx)nt of the corona is painted to resemble rouge royale marble. The ^eral surfiuses of the walls above
the surbsse mouldings are of a lavender tint, and underneath the cornice around the windows is a richly-
ornamented border. The lower portions of the altar are verjr richly decorated, their pilasters having
enriched silver ornaments on their faces, picked out with bnlliant colours on a solid gilt ground, and
the base and back of the altar under the large picture of the Crucifixion, to which we have previously
adverted, is formed in imitation of various kinds of marble.
The sacramental plate was presented by Pope Pins VII. Carl Maria von Weber
was buried iu the vaults of this chapel, June 21, 1826 ; but bis remains have since been
removed to the Catholic churchyard in the Friederichstadt, Dresden.
St. Monica's is in connexion with the Irisb Augustiuian Monastery, in Hoxton-
square. It is a curious iact that the old house inhabited by the Fathers was formerly
a favourite place of resort of King Charles II., who had a house not far distant, between
which and the house in question a subterranean passage communicated. Some traces
of the passage are still discernible*
Obatoey op St. Philip Nebi, King William- street, Strand, was originally an
Assembly Room : here the Rev. P. W. Faber, author of the Cherwell Water Lily, and
other poems, preached (in 1850) to a large and deeply-moved audience. About thirteen
years ago, a Roman Catholic builder purchased a plot of ground, three acres, beside
the church of vhe Holy Trinity at Brompton, and here commenced buildings for
the future residence and church of the Oratorian Fathers.
" The Boman Catholic population in the parish, or mission, under the spiritual direction of the
Fathers of the Oratory, now comprises between 7000 and 8000 souls. The average attendance at Haas
on Sundays is about 6000, and the average number of communions for two years has been about 45,000
annually. In the schools attached are 1000 papHs."— Tablet, 1865.
OuB Lady's, Grove-end- road, St. John's Wood, designed by Sooles. 1834, was
built and endowed by two ladies, the Misses Gallini. The site formerly belonged to
the Knights of St. John of Jerusalem (whence St. John's Wood), whose predecessors,
the Knights Templar, held the same esUte, and built the Temple Church, the proto-
type of the present cross church, which is Early Pointed, thirteenth century. The
western front, with its three gables and crosses, Catherine-wheel and lancet windows,
and pinnacled turrets, is a fine composition. The gables of the north and south fronts
are surmounted with canopied niches, cpntaininfic sculptured groups of the Madonna
and Child ; and the cast front has a large window filled with stained glass. The in-
terior has acutely-arched and richly -bossed roofs, springing from slender shaila ; and
the high altar is backed by a rich open screen. In the schools are educated and
clothed, gratuitously, three hundred poor children.
St. Pathice's, Sutton-street, Soho, is much frequented by the poor Catholic popu-
lation of St. Giles's. Tlie festival of St. Patrick (March 17) is observed here as a
double of the first class, with High Mass.
SARPunAN Chapel (the). Duke-street, Lincoln's-inn-fields, is the oldest foundation
of the metropolitan places of worship now in the hands of the Roman Catholics of
London. It was built in the year before Charles I. was beheaded : that is, in 1648, just at
the close of the Great Rebellion, and the practical commencement of Oliver Cromwell's
rule. During the existence of the penal laws, the only entrance to the chapel was
through the Sardinian ambassador's house, in Lincoln's-inn-fields. The Riots of 1780
commenced with the partial demolition of this building: the mob were especially
savage in attacking it it being the mother-chapel, the oldest in London, and at that
CITY WALLS AND GAfES, 233
time the resort of all the leading Roman Catholics. In derision of their worship, a
cat was dressed in the miniature vestments of a priest, an imitative host or wafer was
placed in ita paws, and thas it was hung to the lamp-post of the chapel. The edifice
was rebnilt after the Riots, and was enlarged by adding to it afc the west end the Am-
Ixissador's stables. It has some painted glass, a finely-toned organ, and splendid
chorch-plate, used only on solemn festivals : the altar-fiimitnre was presented by the
late King of Sardinia, and cost 1000 guineas ; and the painting over the altar, " The
Talcing down from the Cross," is valued at 700/. The choir was formerly maintained
at a great expense; though on Whitsunday, during Br. Baldaconi's. chief chaplsdncy,
Malibran, Persiani, Lablache, and Rubini, and the principals of the Italian Opera
orchestra, gave thdr aid gratuitously. The choir is now scarcely above mediocrity ;
bnt the services are conducted with great solemnity. All-Saints' day (Kov. 1) is one
of the best in the year on which to witness the splendour of the worship. About
thirty years ago the district of the chapel extended to Islington, and the congregation
numbered abont 12,000 souls. This district has been much diminished by the building
of other chapels; bnt the Sardinian congregation is very large. There are four
resident priests, one expressly for the Italians. The Savoyard organ>boy8 much
resort here.
Spanish Chapel, Spanish -place, Manchester-square, was built in 1797, by Joseph
Bonomi, and enlarged in 1846, when a picturesque campanile, 70 feet high, was added
by C. Parker : its interior is a Lady Chapel, and forms a second south aisle. The
chapel is lighted from the roof with a most captivating effect of architectural chiaro-
KTSto, and is divided by Corinthian columns.
CITY WALLS AND GATES,
T^HE small space within the Walls of old London has been described as almost exactly
■^ of the same shape and tbe same area as Hyde Park. It was, in fact, a dun, or Celtic
hill-fortress, formed by Tower-hiU, Comhill, and Ludgate-hill ; and effectually protected
by the Thames on the south, the Fleet on the west, the great fen of Moorfields and
^nsbury on the north, and by the HoundscQtch and the Tower on the east. — Taylor's
Wordt and Plcues,
Tbe City Wall is believed to have been a work of the later Roman period, when
London was not nnfiequently exposed to hostile attacks. Its direct course was as
follows : — Beginning at a fort on part of the site of the present Tower of London, the
line was continued by the Minories, between Poor Jury -lane and the Vineyard (where
now is Vine-street), to Aid-gate. Thence, forming a curve to the north-west, between
Shoemaker-row, Bevis-marks, and Houndsditch, it abutted on Bishop* s-gate, from
which it extended nearly in a stnught line, through Bishopsgate churchyard, and behind
Bethlem Hospital and Fore-street, to Cripple-gate. At a short distance further, it
turned southward, by the back of Hart-street and Cripplegate churchyard ; and thence,
continuing between Mtmkwell-street and Castle-street, led by the back of Barber-
Siirgeons* Hall and Noble-street to Dolphin-court, opposite Oat-lane, where, turning
westerly, it approached Aldert^-gate. I^-ocecding hence, towards the south-west, it
cnrred along the back of St. Botolph's churchyai'd, Christ's Hospital, and Old NeW'
gate, from which it continued southward to Lud-gate, passing at the back of the
College of Phyacians, Warwick- square, Stationers' Hall, and the London Coffee-house,
on Ludgate-hill. From Ludgate it proceeded westerly by Cock-court to Little Bridge-
street, where, turning south, it skirted the Fleet-Brook to the Thames, near which it
tv-as guarded by another fort. The circuit of the whole line, according to Stow, was
two miles and one furlong neaxly. Another wall, defended by towers, extended the
whole distance along the banks of the Thames between the two forts. The walls were
defended by strong towers and bastions ; the remains of three of which, of Roman
masonry, were, in Maitland's time, to be seen in the vicinity, of Houndsditch and
Aldgate. The height of tbe perfect wall is conndered to have been 22 feet, and that
of the towers 40 feet.
The following course of the Wall is shown in a plan drawn by order of the Corpo-
ntion of London, to ascertain the extent of the Great Fire, and now preserved in tbo
Comptroller's Office, Quildhall. It may be distinctly traced as the southern boundary
234 CUitiOSITIES OF LONDON.
of the churchyard of St. Botolpb, at the back of Bull-and-Moath-street. Hence it pro-
ceeded dae east, acroBs Alderagate-street, to Aldersgate, whence it continaed, in the nme
direction perhaps, about 200 feet, where it formed an angle, and had a coriouB bastion.
It then went rather to the north-north-east of Faloon-sqnare, eastward of Castle-street,
where it is now standing, externally incorporated with the walla of the hooseB (a semi-
areolar tower was nncovered in the rear of No. 27, in the year 1865) ; thenoe it
proceediBk and ezhilnts larice remains in the churchyard of St. Qiles's, Cripplegate.
"The latter, iDcladlng a Ustioii, are the moit perfect relict. The bate of the Wall ie oompoeed of
email rough flints, to the height of one foot aiz inchc
four feet tiz inches of rough Kentlah ragstone (the
fermgliioaa eandstone irr^uUrly taitenMMMd. Then
eighteen inches by twelve, and one and three^narters thick, on which is laid more of the ragstone fbr
two feet six Inches ; again a double ooorse of ales, and abore that one foot six inches of the ragstone.
Total existing height^ nineteen feet seven inches. It is nine feet six inches in^ width at the baae^ and
two feet at the top."— TT. D. SaMa,F.ejg,
Mr. Boach Smith hat shown that the area and dimensions of the Koman dty may
be oonjectorally mapped out from the masses of masonry fbrming portions of its
boanduies, and many of which have come to light in (he progress of City improvements.
The position of the Gates, bemdes intervening remains, enables ns to trace the oonrse
of the Wall on the western, northern, and eastern sides of liOndon. Mr. Boach Smith
shows that it rons in a straight line from the Tower to Aldgate^ where, making an
angle, it takes again the straight line to Bishopsgate ; frcm Bishopsgate it runs east*
^vard to St. QiWs churchyard, where it tarns to the south as far as Falcon-square*
and at this point pursues a westerly direction by Aldersgate, running under Christ's
Hospital towards Giltspur-street, near which it forms an angle, and proceeds directly
sooth by Ludgate towards the Thames. From Ludgate, however, it did not take a
direct line towards the river, but traversed the g^round now occupied by The Timet
offices, and from this spot diverged towards St. Andrew's-hilL Excavations in Upper
Thames-street have brought to light a portion of it nine feet below the level of the
present street, at the foot of Lambeth-hill. Hence it continued as fiir as Queenhithe;
and it is curious to observe, that though this portion of the wall had ^sappeared f^m
above the surface as early as the days of Fitzstephen, many of the large stones whidi
formed its lower part were found to be sculptured and ornamented with mouldings^
denoting their use in the friezes or entablatures of edifices at some period antecedent
to its construction. Excavations have also proved that within the area thus endoaed
most of the streets of the present day run upon the ruins of Boman houses, and " we
may safely conclude that the streets and buil^ngs of the Boman dty, if not quite so
dense and continuous as those of the modem dty, left but little space throughout the
entire area unoccupied, except a portion of the district between Lothbury and Prince's-
street, and London-wall, and the ground adjoining the wall from Moorgate-street
towards Bishopsgate."
Mr. Tito, the architect of the Boyal Exdiange, in 1853, unearthed a beautiful
tessellated pavement under Ghresham House, in Old Broad-strept ; and next, in Trinity-
square, Tower-hill, a portion of the ancient wall still existed above ground, whidiy
though not Boman, was supposed to rest on Boman foundations. In 1841, the
Blackwall Bailway, much further north than this point, cut through Boman remains
of the great wall; but it was not until the autumn of 1864 that further traces
were found. Then, in some large works in Cooper's-row, was discovered a very
extensive fragment of a Norman wall, with narrow slits for archers to shoot their
arrows. This fragment was 110 feet long, and in hdght, fh>m the bottom of the
foundation to the top of the parapet, 41 feet. All the foundations, and a considerable-
portion of the lower wall, were undoubtedly Boman, built of square stonea, in regular
courses, with bonding-courses of Boman hnck of intense hardness, and exodlent
cement, as hard as any red earthenware ; and was, as was always the case with the
Boman, more of what we should call a tile, being 1 foot square and l^in. thick. The
mortar between the bricks was nearly as thick as the bricks themselves, and abound-
ing in portions of pounded brick. The exact place of these remains Mr. l^te has
sliown in an andent plan of London in the reign of Elizabeth, when the walls and
gates were in existence. Undoubted Boman remains of these walls are traceable, viz.,.
Camomile-street (found by I>r. Woodward, in 1707) ; the street stiU called London*
CITY WALLS AND GATES. 235
wall (portioiis removed 1817-18, when Bethlem Hospital was taken down) ; and near
Moorgate. Mr. Tite points oat that there coold have heen no walls at the time when
SaetoniiiB abandoned London, a.d. 61. Some Norman historians refer the walls to a
period as late as the Empress Helena ; but Mr. Tito's opinion seems to be that they dated
about the aeoond centory of oar era. The distinctly Norman work above this level
Mr. Tite attribates to the troubled times of King John, when the associated Barona
arrived at Aldgate, in 1216, the Sunday before Ascension Day, and entered the City
whUe the inhabitants were at Divine service. After this, the walls being in a rainooa
state, they restored them, osing the materials of the Jews' hooses existing in the neigh-
bourhood, and then destroyed to baild up the defences, which, as chroniclers relate^
were in a sahseqaent rogn in a high state of excellence. In 1257, Henry IIL caosed
the whole of the walls of the City to be repaired at the common charge. In 1282
and 1310, the walls were again repaired; and, in 1477, the patriotic Mayor, Ralph
Joeoelyne, completely restored all the walls, gates, and towers, in which work he waa
aasisied by the G^rooers' and other companies, and by Sir John Crosby. " The gold-
smiths^" says Stow, ''repaired from Cripplegate towards Alderagate, and there the
work ceased." The total area inclosed by the Walls which still constitate " the City
of LoodoQ" is only about 880 acres. — Proe, Soe, Aniiq,
Mr. W. H. Blade, F.SJL, in describing the primitive site of Roman London, dtes
Roman authors^ as Tacitus and Antoninus, to prove that Londinium was not a colonial
Imt an oppidumf sorrounded by walls, for the protection of its commerce and trade,
and having a treasurer. He entirely refutes the opinions to prove that primitive
London was situate upon the south mdo of the Thames^ by showing that the whole of that
low giound was oovex^ by a lake, which extended from the lugh gpround of Greenwich,.
Camberwell, Brixton, and so on to Lambeth ; and he is confirmed in this opinion by the
directaoin of the {nindpal streets, which all converge to a centre on the north, side.
>'rom the measures he has taken, in his opinion the primitive site of London was between
Walbrook on the east, and Fleet River on the west. The north wall, he believes, ran from
Alder^gate^ through Lad-lane, to the Walbrook, and from Doctors' Commons to the same
broo^ through Old Fish-street, on the south. The discovery of several pieces of old
Roman wall on the line confirms this view. The forum, or market-place, would be in
Cheap, from which the prindpal roads diverged. The commerce of die dty increasing,
it neoessitated the enlarging of the dty, and we find many of the streets were altered,
as for instance^ Broad-street used to be the way to Bishopsgate, whidi was changed tor
Threadneedle-street ; and a new street was formed from Cheapside to Aldgate.
In the Sutherland View, 1543, and in Tapperell and Innes's large Map, the Qreat
Wall is seen entire, with its embrasures, its large and lofty gates, and intervening
towers. These gates are minutdy described by Stow. Chamberlayne, in his Magna
BritamuB NoiUia, 1726, says : '* Most of the gates of that old WallstiH remain : those^
which were bomt down at Ludgate and Newgate are rebuilt with great solidity and
magnificences and those whidi escaped, as Aldersgate, Cripplegate, Moorgate, Aldgat^
are kept in good repair, and are shut up at every night, with g^reat ^ig^ence and a
sufficient watch, at ten o'dodc ; none bdng suffered to go in or out without examina-
tion. Most of these gates are of g^ood architecture, and adorned with statues of some
of our kings and queens ; as is that, likewise, called Temple Bar, in Fleet-street, near the
Middle Temple Gate." The Gates, except the latter, were taken down 1760-62 : a statue
of Queen Elizabeth, from Ludgate^ b now placed on the outer wall of the diurch of St.
Dunstan-in-the-West ; and the statues of Lud and his sons, from the same gate, are in
the grounds of St. Dtmstan's Villa, Regent's Park (the Marquis of Hertford's). These
statues were supposed by Flaxman to have preserved the likeness of the originals, as
cupies^ or possibly liberal restorations, of the actual figures. (Archer's Vestiges of Old
Zondan, part iv., with six views.) Four of the figures from New-gate are in the south
front of tiie present prison of that name.
The CItj of London, properly so called, conalsts of that part anciently wUkln the WaU$t to^rether
with that termed tks LiUrtie; which immediately tnrronnd^ them. The Libertiea are encompassed
br the Lm$ ^ShparoHomf the boondaiy between them and the coonty of Middlesex : and marked by
tM Ban, wnich formerly oonaiated of poits and chains, bat are now denoted by lofty stone obelisks^
bearing the Olty arms, which msy be seen, eastward, in Whltechapel, the Minoriee, and Bishopsgate-
street; northward, in Ooswell-etrcet, at the end of Fan-alley, and In St. John's-street} and westward*.
236 CUBI08ITIE8 OF LONDON,
at Middle-row, Holborn ; while at the weeteni end of Fleet-street the boundary is the stone gateway
called Temple Bar.— O. J, Aungier.
See also a Comparative Plan of that part of the Cit;r of London which was destrojed hf the Great
Fire in 1866, and its altered condition in 1849, bj )i rancis Whishaw, C.E.; wherein old London is sliown
by strong lines, and modem London bj dotted lines.
CLEEKENW^LL,
A LARGE parish north-enst of High Holborn, and named from a well around which
the parish clerks, or clerken, were wont to assemble to act Scripture plays. Tlie
whole district was originally a village, which grew up around the priory of St. Johu
of Jerusalem, north, and the Nunnery of St. Mary, south, of what is now Clerken u-cll-
green. It was then a succession of gentle pastures and slopes, with the " River of
Wells," or " Fleet," flowing between two hills on its western border : and its rural
character is kept in mind by its Coppice and Wilderness rows, Saffron-hill, Yine^'arcl-
gardens. Field-lane, Clerkenwell-green, and Cow-cross ; whilst Turnmill-streefc recals
the ** noise of the water-wheels" mentioned by Fitzstephen in 1190. In the Suther-
land View of London, 1543, we see St. John's with a lofty spire, with trees extending
to St. Bartholomew's, Smithfield ; and westward the yiUage green and St. James's
Church, formerly of St. Mary's Nunnery, and then just made parochiaL The nave,
aisles, and bell-tower of St. John's were, however, pulled down to supply materials for
building the proud Protector Somerset's palace. Aggas's map, in 1563, shows us a
few houses bounded on three sides by Uttle else than fields. By 1617, however, a
number of fine houses had been built in the district, and were inliabited by persons of
note. Hence to the village of Islington lay tlirough green fields and country paths ;
and BO lately as 1780, ** persons walking from the City to IsHngton in the evening:,
waited near the end of St. John's-street, in what is now termed Northampton-street
(but was then a rural avenue planted with trees, called Wood's Close), until a sufH-
cient party had collected, who were then escorted by an armed patrol." (Storer and
Cromwell's Clerkenwell.) The whole locality is covered with crowded streets. Hero
is still a large house, once the town residence of the Northampton family ; the garden-
ground is now Northampton- square ; and Compton, Percival, Spencer, Wyn^'att, and
Ashby streets are named from the titles of the Marquis of Northampton, the principal
ground-landlord of the district.
Passing to olden Clerkenwell, the Priory-gate of St. John has been transforine^l
into a tavern ; and the Square, once part of the Priory precincts, and afterwards tliu
residence of the titled and wealthy, is now mostly tenanted by wat-chmakers and
jewellers : in this Square died Bishop Burnet. Jerusalem- passage leads to Aylesbury-
street, between which and St. John's Church stood the town-house of the Earl of
Aylesbury, in the reign of Charles II. At the corner of Jerusalem-passage aud Aylcs-
bury-street, Thomas Britton, the " musical small coal-man," held his music mectintrs
from 1678 to 1714, in a low and narrow room over the coal-shop, to which all the
fushion of the age flocked; Britton himself playing in the orchestra the viol-di-gamba.
In Woodbridge-street, branching from Aylesbiu'y -street, was the celebrated Red Bull
Theatre, conjectured to have been originally an inn-yard, used for performances late in
the reign of Queen Elizabeth, and where the King's Players nnder Eilligrew acted
until they removed to Drury-lane. At the Red Bull, women first acted on the
English stnge : its site is probably now occupied by part of a distillery. St. James's
Church was rebuilt in 1788 as we now see it. The Nunnery Close became Clerken-
well-close, on the east side of which was Newcastle House, built by the Earl of New-
castle, and where the eccentric literary Duchess Margaret held a sort of academic
court for many years after the Restoration. " Of all the riders of Pegasus," says
Walpole, " there have not been a more fantastic couple than his Grace and his faithful
Duchess, who was never off her pillion." Pepys notes a visit of Charles II. to her
Grace at Newcastle House, in April, 1667.
Another eccentric inhabitant of Newcastle Honiie was Elizabeth Duchess of Albemarle, and aiter-
wards of Montague, bhe was married in 1609 to Christopher Monuk, second Duke of Albemarle, then
a youth of 16, whom her inordinate pride drove to the bottle and other dissipation. After his death, in
1698, at Jamaica, the Duchess, whose vast estate so inflated her vanity as to produce mental aberration,
resolved never again to elve her baud to anv but a sovereign prince. She had many suitors ; but true
to her resolution, she rcyectod them all, until Ralph Montague, third Lord and first Doke of that name,
CLEBKENWELL. 237
adocvcd the csanqoest by oourUiM; her m Emperor ^ (Mmi: and the ineodote has been dranutiaed bj
CoOej Clbber, in nia eomedj of " The Doable Gallant, or Sick Lady's Cure." Lord Montague nuurried
the lady as ** Emperor/' bat afterwardB played the troantt and kept her in aach strict confinement
Hut bcr rdatSona oompelled him to produce her in open ooort^ to prove that she was aliTe. Bichara
lard Rosa, ooeofher rqeeted aoiton, addressed to Lord Montagoe on his match:
** T»M«ii««g liral, never boast From one that's nnder Bedlam's laws
ThyoonqnestlatdTwon; Whatgrlorreaabehad?
Ko wonder that her heart was los^— for love of thee was not the cause :
Her senses first were gone. It proves that she was mad."
Tbe Dwfaess snrrfved her second husband nearly thirty vears, and at last *'died of mere dd age^" at
Sevcastle House, August fS, 1738, aged 96 yeara. Until her decease, ahe is said to have been constantly
served oc the knee as a sovereign.
On the esst ride of the Close stood a large hoose, by unanthorized tradition said to
have been inhabited by Oliver Cromwell ; but Cromwell'place, bailt upon the honae-
rite^.ltta been named from this story. Another inhabitant of the Close was Weever,
the antignary, who dates the Epistle to the first edition of his Ancient FunereUl Monu*
flseate from his ** House in ClerkenweU-cIose," May 28, 1631 : he died in tbe next
year, and was bnried in old St. James's Chnrch. On ClerkenweU*green is the
Middlesex Sesrions-House (Rogers^ architect), bailt in 1779-82 : it has a handsome
east fronty and a large hall, with a lofty dome. Here the County Sittings were re-
moved from " Hicka's Hall," in St. John's-street, opposite the Windmill Inn, and
ramed after Sir Baptist Hicks, of Kensington, one of the justices of the ooonty, after-
wards Viscoant Campden, who built the Hall in 1612; from this site, " the spot where
Hicks's Hall formerly stood," tbe distances on the mile-stones on the Great North
Koad were formerly measured. In this Hall, the patriotic William, Lord Russell, was
tried, 1683. In St. John's-lane are the remains of an Elizabethui house, with the
sign of the Baptist's Head (probably in compliment to Sir Baptist Hicks) : it is said to
lave been frequented by Samuel Johnson and Oliver Qoldsmith, in their transactions
with Cave, tbe printer, at St. John's Gate ; and in the taproom is a fine old armorial
diininey-pieoe, engraved in Archer's Vestige* of Old London, part iii.
Upon the rite of Back-hill and Ray-street was the Bear-garden of Hockley-in-the«
Hole, not only the resort of the mob, but of noblemen and ambassadors, to witness the
cruelties of bear and bull baiting by greater brutes, and '* the noble adence of defence ;"
&r, saya Mrs. Peachum (Beggar^» Opera), ** You should go to Hockley-in-the-Hole to
ham valour ;" but the nuisance was abolished soon after 1728. Tbe locality, however,
dan retains its foul stain of moral degradation and squalid misery in its alleys and
osorts, several with but one narrow entrance ; and three-storied houses let in tene*
ments, where men, women, and donkeys find shelter together.
The tract immediately eastward of tbe Fleet River was rich in springs, many of
them mecUdnal : hence Coldbath-fields, Bagnigge-wells, Sadler's-wells, Islington Spa,
the London Spa, and the " Wells" of the earlier topographers. Spa-fields, the hot-bed
cf Radical riot in 1817, is now covered with streets.
Bagnigge Wells was another of these springs, and became a place of public resort in
1767. Xearthe Pindar of Wakefield, in Gray's-inn-road, was Bagnigge House, a
pictuTesque gabled house, covered with vines, traditionally said to have been the sum-
mer residence of Nell Gwynne ; and here was a memorial stone, inscribed " This is
Bagnigge House, near the Pindar of Wakefield, 1680."
The Clerks' Well (whence the parish had its name), in Ray-street, now taken down,
was left by gift by the Earl of Northampton, in 1673, for the use of the poor of St
James's parish, but was let by the authorities, for 40f. a year. The property was
neglected, when the churchwardens, in 1800, placed here a pump, with a tablet, giving
a brief historical account of tbe Well. Fitzstepben tells us that " London, in place of
stage plays and scenic decorations, hath dramas of more sacred subjects — representa-
lioDs of those miracles which the holy confessors wrought ; or of tbe sufierings wherein
tbe glorious constancy of martyrs did appear ;" audit is an undoubted fact that sacred
dramas were performed on this spot before tbe reigns of Henry II. and Richard 1^
which were the era of Fitzstephen. Cromwell, in his History of this parish, suggests
that the observance of this cusstom here may be of more remote antiquit}' ; that Clerken
being an Anglo-Saxon compound, the custom must be referred to that period. In
Aggas's CivUas Jjondinensit, 1560, is a rude representation of the Clerks' Well in the
time of Elizabeth ; it was the spring of St. Mary's Nunnery. The Clerks' Well be-
238 CURIOSITIES OF LONBOIT.
^ame neglected. Near it was the Skinners' Well, now no longer to be recognised, nor
its precise situation determined. In a narrow thorongbfare leading team Baker's-
row into Ray-street, is a small pablic-honse, known as the Pickled Egg, from a former
landlord selling here pickled eggs, sacb as are still prepared in Hants and Dorset.
Charles II. is sidd to have halted here, and partaken of a pckled egg. The hoose had
formerly a noted cockpit ; in 1775 tiiere were cocking-matches here ** between the
gentlemen of London and Essex."
West of Bay-street is Vine-street, formerly Mutton-hill, thought, in Pink^^t XRstory
nf CUrkemoell, p. Ill, to be derived from the word meeting, anciently spoken moteinff^
in reference to the Clerks' Mote (Saxon) or meeting-place by the Well.
Cold Bath-square, hard by, is named from the fiunous Cold Bath discovered here
in 1697: it is now surrounded with houses. In this square, near the Cold
Bath, in 1738-36, lived Eustace Budgell, the relative and friend of Addison, for whom
be wrote in the Spectator, Here, too, for ninety years* lived the eccentric ** Ladj
Lewson." She died here, m 1816, at the reputed age of 116.
At the comer of Cobham-row and Cold Bath-squarei, there stood to our day a noble
horse-chestnut tree, which, tradition tells us, was one of a grove of trees that once
^rew here in the extensive grounds of the ill-fated Sir John Oldcastle, afterwards
Lord Cobham, the great Reformer; and who, by the barbarous iuhumamty and perse-
•cuting spirit of the age in which he lived, was hung in chains as a heretic, and burned
in St. Oiles's-in-the-Fields, in the year 1418, for his noble advocacy of the docbrines of
Wyckliffe, and an alleg^ conspiracy against the government of Henry Y. Hisfiunily
mansion became Sir John Oldcastle's Tft\'em; subsequently a Small-pox Hospital,
«pcdally for the reception of patients in the incipient stages of that ^Usease, and such
as caught it naturally. The building was afterwards reconstructed, and continued to
be used as an hospital till 1795, when the charity was removed to the chief estabUsh-
ment at Eing's-cross. At a later period the property passed into the hands of the
Countess of Huntingdon's connexion, when the hospital building was converted into
private dweUing-houses, on the north side of the thoroughfiire well known as Cobham-
row. Mr. Pinks could not, however, trace Sir John Oldcastle's residence here.
Watchmakers, dockmakers, and jewellers settled in Clerkenwell in g^reat numbers
early in the last century', and several streets are mostly occupied by them; as
** escapement-maker," "engine-turner," "fusee-cutter," "springer," "secret-springer,"
" finisher," and "joint-finisher," inscribed upon door-plates, attest ; for in no trade is
the division of labour carried to a greater extent than in watchmaking. (See St.
John's Gate.)
The Sklorv qf CUrkemmM had been eompiled and written, with rsre fidelity and mhratoiess, by
pages, Dy Mr. recKDnm, ayaoeiton uoiue, i;ierKen«reu. Toe aatoor ipent sue Toan in oollecting bis
xnatenals t and the editor nearly three yean in hii labours. The Hutorg is mainly the work oS Mr.
Pinks ! it is one of those laborious results of derotedness, which can scarcely be orerrated. The took
Is rich in sketches of eocentric persons, who seem to have abounded in Clerkenwell, from early times.
CLIMATE OF LONDON.
THE temperature of the ur in the metropolis is raised by the artiflcial sources of heat
existing in it no less than two degrees on the annual mean above that of its
.mmediate vicinity. Mr. Howard, in his work on Climate, has fViUy established this
fkct, by a comparison of a long series of observations made at Plaistow, Stratford, and
Tottecliam Green (all within five miles of London), with those made at the apartments
of the Royal Society in London, and periodically recorded in the FhUoeophical
Tratuactiom, In explanation, Mr. Howard refers to the heat induced by the population
(just as the temperature of a hive of bees), and from the domestic fires, and firom the
foundries breweries, steam-engines, and other manufactories. " When we consider that
all these artificial sources of heat, with the exception of the domestic fires, continue in
full operation throughout the summer, it should seem that the excess of the London
temperature must be still greater in June than it is in January, but the fkct is other-
wise. The excess of the City temperature is greater in winter, and at that period
seems to belong entirely to the nights, which average 3'710° warmer than the country;
whUe the heat of the days, owing, without doubt, to the interception of a portion of
CLUBS AND CLUB-HOUSES. 239
the Bolar xaysby a oonstaat veil of imoke, fUk, on a mean of years, aboat a third of a
degree short of that in the open plains."
In the winter of 1886, Mr. W. H. White ascertained the temperature in the City to
he 3^ higher than three miles south of London Bridge ; and after tha g<u had hee%
UgJded im ike CUy four or five hours, the temperature increased taXi Z°, thus making
6° dliTerenoe in the three miles.
Dr. Ptont* found that when his observations were made during the prevalence of
wind (his station bdng at the western extremity of London), the air blowing from the
east contained a minute portion of oxygen less than that which blew from the west.
Hie diiFeienoe was exceedingly small; still, it tended to show that the air which has
passed over the busy streets (XPthe metropolis differs in its amount, not only of car*
bonic add, but also of oxygen, from the ur which has not reached those scenes.
Change of ur in the metropolis is mostly effected by the mixture of the gases com-
posing it. There are hundreds of places in London into which the toind never finds
admisBioii ; and even among the wider streets there are many through which a free
current is rarely blown. It is only in the night, when combustion in some measure
ceases, and the whole surface of the earth is cooled, that the gases are gradually re-
moved, and the whole atmosphere of the City is brought nearly to an equality.
Nothing, indeed, can be more striking than the difference even in the sensible qualities
of the ur of London in the early morning and in the evening : in the former it has a
coolness and refreshing deamess, which those who know it in the heat of later hour can
scarcely imagine.
Every one has observed upon dirty windows in the metropolis small tree-like crystal-
lizations : these oonsiitt of sulphate of ammonia, which is produced in the atmosphere
hj the burning of vast quantities of coalf combining with the sulphurous add in the
atmosphere.
Owing to the smoke^ many spedes of flowers (the yellow rose, for instance), will not
bloom within ten miles of London ; Paris, on the contrary (where wood is almost
mnversally burnt), produces the fin^ flowers, not alone in the gardens of the Tuileries
and Luxembourg, but in the nursery-grounds of the fSunous rose-growers, Noisette and
Laf&y ; whidi, in the Faubourg St. Qermiun, enjoy advanUges sudi as it would be
necessary to retreat some miles from London to secure.
In London, in sunny weather, some fine effects of light and shade may be witnessed
in the neighbourhood of the public buildings. Miss Landon refers to a bright day in
spring as ''a very spendthrift of sunshine^ when the darkest alley in London wins a
golden glimpse, and the eternal mist around St. Paul's turns to a gUttering haze."
CLUBS AND CLUB-HOUSES.
ALTHOUQH the Club was a social feature of the last century, to the present age is
due the establishment of a system of Club Living upon a scale of splendour and
completeness hitherto unattainable. Formerly the Club resembled an ill-appointed
coffee-boose or tavern ; often, however, redeemed by the brilliancy of the wit which
was ''wont to set the table in a roar,'' and animated by a conversational spirit com-
paratively little indulged in the present day.
There has been an excess of controversy and surmise as to the origin of the Club ;
but nather of the guesses reaches the good sense of Addison, who truly sud, " all
celebrated Clubs were founded upon eating and drinking, which are points where most
men agrees and in which the learned and the illiterate, the dull and the airy, the
philosopher and the buffoon, can all of them bear a part."
It has been pleasantly observed, that Clubs are gradually working as complete a
revolution in the constitution of sodety as they have already effected in the archi-
tectural appearance of our streets. In the year 1800, there were only White's, as old
as Hogarth's time ; Brooks's and Boodle's ; the Cocoa-Tree, Graham's, and another :
now there are nearly fifty Clubs, each possessing a well-appointed mansion. The
frdlities of living have been wonderfully increased by them, whilst the expend has
been greatly diminished; and for a few pounds a-year, advantages are to be enjoyed
whidi no fortune except the most ample can procure.
240 CURIOSITIES OF LOIWOI^*.
Altosd Club, the. No. 23, Albemarle-Btreet, established in 1808, is described by
Earl Dudley, in his time, as the dullest place in existence, " the asylum of doting
Tories and drivelling qnicbiuncs." It was at this Club that " Mr. Canning, whilst in
the zenith of his fame, dropped in accidentally at a honse-dinner of twelve or fourteen,
stayed out the evening, and made himself remarkably agreeable^ without any of the
party suspecting who he was." {Quarterly Heview, No. 110.)
Tlie Alfred had, db i»itio, been remarkable for the number of travellers and men of
letters, who formed a considerable proportion of its members. Yet, strangely enough, its
cockney appellation was Htiff-read. Lord Byron was a member, and he tells us that
** it was pleasant, a little too sober and literary, and bored with Sotheby and Frauds
lyivemoisf but one met Rich, and Ward, and Yalentia, and many other pleasant or
known people ; and it was, in the whole, a decent resource in a rainy day, in a dearth
of parties, or Parliament, or in an empty season." The Alfred joined the Oriental in 1855.
Aliiack'b Clttb, the original Brooks's, was founded in Pall Mall, in 1764 (on the
nte of what is now the British Institution), as a gaming Club. Some of its members
were Maccaronis, the " curled darlings" (k the day : they were so called from their
affectation of foreign tastes and fashions, and were celebrated for their long curls and
eye-glasses. "At Almack's," writes Walpole in 1770, "which has taken ihepcu of White's,
is worthy the decline of our empire, or commonwealth, which you please : the young men
of the age lose ten, fifteen, twenty thousand pounds in an evening." The play at this
gaming club was only for rouleaus of 601. each, and generally there was 10,000/. in
spedo on the table. The gamesters beg^n by pulling off their embroidered clothes,
and put on fneze greatcoats, or turned their coats inside outwards for ludc. They put
on pieces of leather (such as are worn by footmen when they dean the knives) to save
thdr laced ruffles ; and to g^rd their eyes from the light and to prevent tumbling their
hair, wore high-crowned straw hats with broad brims, and adorned with flowers and
ribbons; masks to conceal their emotions when they played at quinz. Each gamester
had a small neat stand by him, to hold his tea ; or a wooden bowl with an edge of
ormolu, to hold the rouleaus. Almack's was subsequently Goosetree's.
In the yeu 1780, Pitt was then sn babitoal freqaenter. and hero his perMynsl adherenti mustered
stronglT. The membere, we are told in the J^ft qf Wilbetfore*^ were about twentj-five in number,
and incmded Pratt (afterwards Lord Camden). Lords Euston, Chatham, Graham, Doncannon, AlUiorp,
Apsley, G. Cavendish, and Lennox ; Slessrs. Eliot, Sir Andrew St John, Bridgeman (afterwards Lord
Bradiord), Morris Robinson (afterwards Lord Bokeby), R. Smith (afterwards Lord Carrington), W.
Grenville (afterwards Lord Grenville), Pepper Arden (afterwards Lord Alvanlej) ; Mr. Edwards, Mr.
Marsham, Mr. Pitt, Mr. Wilberforce, Mr. Bankes, Mr. Thomas Steele, General Smith, Mr. Windham.
Gibbon, the historian, was a member, and he dated several letters from here.
Alfiits Clitb, 8, St. Martin's-place, a small Society founded in order to bring to-
gether those who, whether as explorers, artists, or men of science^ take an Interest in
the Alps, or in any of the other great mountain ranges. During the winter and
spring, meetings are held, at which are read papers descriptive of mountain excursions,
glacier phenomena, and other cognate subjects. See the Alpine Journal.
Apollo Club was held at the Devil Tavern, Fleet-street, between Temple-bar and
Middle Temple-gate^ a house of great resort in the reign of James I., and then kept by
Simon Wadloe. Ben Jonson wrote The Devil ie an Asse, played in 1616, when he
" drank bad wine at the Devil." The principal room, called " the Oracle of Apollo,"
was spadous, and apart from the tavern. Above the door was a bust of Apollo; and
at the entrance, in gold letters on a black board, was inscribed the famous-^
" Welcome all, who lead or follow.
To the Oracle qf Apollo," &c.
Beneath these verses was the name of the author, thus inscribed — " O Bare Ben
Jonson," a posthumous tribute from his grave in Westminster Abbey. The bust
appears modelled from the Apollo Belvedere, by some skilful person of the olden day,
but has been several times painted. "The Welcome," originally inscribed in gold
letters, on a thick black-painted board, has since been wholly repainted and gilded ;
but the old thickly-lettered inscription of Ben's dny may be seen as an embossment
upon the modem painted background. These poetic memorials are both preserved in
the banking-house of the Messrs. Child.
CLUBS A2W CLUB-HOUSES, 241
-^^M^^^^l ^^ ^mm- ^ ■ M__^^M^^JW. ^M—W ■ I B^W IMM ■ ■L_ll_ ^11 I
"The Wdoome,'* mjs Mr. Barn, *' it may be inferred, was placed in the interior of the room : to
alio, abore ^e fireplace, were the Bales of the Clab, said br early writers to haye been Inscribea in
m&rble, bat were in truth folded letters upon a black-painted board, similar to the verses of the Welcome.
TheM Bales are iostlr admired for thi conciseness and elcKanee of the Latinity." They have been felici-
tcofly translated by Alexander Broome, one of the wits who Iteqaented the I>evilj and who was one of
Ben Jonsoa's twelve adopted poetiosd sons. Latin inscriptions were also placed in other directions, to
•dtnn the boose ; over the dock in the kitchen there remained one in 1731. In the Bales of the Apollo
Qabf women of character were not exdaded from attending the meetings*
■
ABirr AiO) Natt Clxtb-hoxtss, P&ll Mall, comer of George-street, designed by
I^mell and Smith, was opened February, 1851. The exterior is a combination from
Sansovino's Fnhizzo Comaro, and Library of St. Mark at Venice ; but varying in the
upper part, which has Corinthian columns, with windows resembling arcades filling up
the interoolnmns ; and over thdr arched headings are g^ups of naval and military
symbols, weapons, and defensive armour — very picturesque. The frieze has also effec-
tive groups symbolic of the Army and N^vy ; the cornice, likewise very bold, is crowned
by a massive balustrade. The basement, from the Comaro, is rusticated : the entrance
bdng in the centre of the east or George-street front, by three open arches, similar in
cbarader to those in the Strand front of Somerset House. The whole is extremely
rich in ornamental detail. The hall is fine ; the coffee-room, eighty-two feet by thirty-
nise feet, is panelled with scagliola, and has a ceiling enriched with flowers, and pierced
for ventilation by heated flues above ; adjoining is a room lighted by a glazed plafond ;
next is the house dining-room, decorated in the Munich style ; and more superb is the
morning room, with its arched windows, and mirrors forming arcades and vistas
innnmerable. A magnificent stone staircase leads to the library and evening rooms $
ud in the third story are billiard and card rooms; and a smoking-room, with a lofty
dome elaborately decorated in traoeried Moresque. The apartments are adorned with
an equestrian portrait of Queen Victoria, painted by Grant, R JL. ; a piece of Gobelini
tapestry (Sacrifice to Diana), presented to the club in 1849 by Prince Loub Napoleon $
marble busts of William IV. and the Dukes of Kent and Cambridge ; and several life-
size portraits of naval and military heroes. The Club-house is provided with twenty
lines of Whishaw'9 Telekouphona, or Speaking Telegraph, which communicate from the
Secretary's room to tbe various apartments. The cost of this superb edifice, exclusive
of fittings, was 85,000/. ; the plot of ground on which it stands cost the Club 52,000/.
AsTs Club, Hanover-square, was instituted, 1863, for facilitating the social inter-
coaraeof those vrho are connected either professionally or as amateurs with Art, Litera-
tve, or Sdenoe.
Abthub'b Club-hoitbs, 69, St. James's-street, is named from Mr. Arthur, the
deeper of White's Chocolate-house, who died 1761. The present Club-house is by
Hopper; the prindpal windows are decorated with fluted Corinthian columns.
Athekjeitic Club, Waterloo-place, Fall Mall, was established in 1828 : the members
tte chosen by ballot, one black ball in ten excluding. The present Club-house, designed
by Dedmus Burton, was built in 1829-80, on a portion dt the court-yard of Carlton
l^alaoe ; the architecture is Gredan, with a fneze exactly copied from the Pftnathenaio
prooeasion in the frieze of the Parthenon — ^the flower and beauty of Athenian youth
pt^eefaHj seated on the most exquisitely-sculptured horses, — ^which Flaxman regarded
tt the most precious examples of Grecian power in the sculpture of animals. Over the
Boman-Doric entrance-portico is a colossal flgure of Minerva, by Baily, R.A. ; and the
mterior has some fine casts f^om chef-d^oeuvres of sculpture: the style of the hall, stair-
cue, gallery, and apartments, is grand, massive, and severe. The Athenamm is a good
lUostntion of the Club system. The number of ordinary members is fixed at 1200 ;
they are mostly eminent persons, dvil, military, and ecclesiastical; peers spiritual and
^poral ; men of the learned professions, sdence, the arts, and commerce ; and the
distinguished who do not belong to any particular class. Many of these are to be met
with every day, living with the same freedom as in their own houses. For thirty
S^iineas entrance, and six guineas a-year, every member has the command of aa
ooeUent library (the best Club library in London), with maps ; of newspapers, English
^ foreign ; the principal periodicals; writing materials, and attendance. The build-
^ is a sort of palace, and is kept with the same exactness and comfort as a private
dwelling. Every member is master, without any of the trouble of a master : he caa
B
242 CURIOSITIES OF LONDON.
come when he pleases, and stay away when he pleases, without anything going wrong ;
he has the command of regular servants, without having to pay or manage them ; he
can have whatever meal or refreshment he wants, at all' hours, and served up as in his
own house. From an account of the expenses at the Athensenm in the year 1832, it
appears that 17,323 dinners cost, on an average, 2f. 9}<2. each, and that the average
quantity of wine for each person was a small fraction more than half-a-pint. The
expense of huilding the Clnh-house was 35,000^^ and 6000^. for furnishing; the plate,,
linen, and glass cost 2600Z. ; lihrary 21,8982. ; and the stock of wine in cellar is usually
worth ahout 60002. : yearly revenue about 10,0002. The principal rooms are lighted by
chandeliers fitted with Faraday's perfect ventilation apparatus. In the library is an
nnfiniiihed portrait of Geoige IV., which Sir Thomas Lawrence was painting but a
few hours before his decease, the last bit of oobur that he ever put upon canvas being
that on the hilt and sword-knot of the girdle.
At the pretiminarr meeting for the formation of the Athenvam, Febrosrr 16, 1884^ were present
Sir Humphry Davy, Bart., P.ELS.. the Bight Hon. John Wilson Croker, Sir Franda Ghantrey, RJL,
Richard Heber, Sir Thomas Lawrence, P.RA., Dr. Thomas Yoong, F.B.S., liord Dover, Davies Gilbert,
the Earl of Aberdeen, P.8. A., Sir Henry Halfcvd, Sir Walter Soot^ Bart., Joseph Jekyll, Thomas Moore,
Charles Hatchett, F.B.S.; Secretary, Professor Faraday.
** The mixtore of Whigs, Badicals, iavatu, foreigners, dandies, authors, soldiera, sailors, lawyers,
artists, doctors, and Members of both Housei of Parliament, together with an exceedingly good average
supplv of bishops, render the nilamM very agreeable, despite of some two or three bores, who * oon-
tinuaUy do dine,' and who, not satisfled with getting a 8*. dinner for 3«.6<l.,' continually do complain.* "
—New MotUhig Magaeins, 1834.
At the Athenffium, Theodore Hook was a g^reat card ; and in a note to the sketch
of him in the Quarterly -Beview, it is stated that the number of dinners at this Club
fell off by upwards of three hundred per annum after Hook disappeared from his
fkvourite corner, near the door of the cofiee-room. That ia to aay, there must have
been some dozens of gentlemen who chose to dine there once or twice every week
of the season, merely for the chance of Hook's being there, and permitting them to
draw their chairs to his little table in the course of the evening. The comer alluded
to will, we suppose, long retain the name which it derived from him — Temperance
Comer. Many grave and dignified personages being frequent guests, it would hardly
have been seemly to be calling for repeated supplies of a certain description ; but the
waiters well understood what the oracle of the comer meant by "Another glass of
toast and water," or, " A little more lemonade."
Athekaum, Jukiob, the, pro tern. St. James's-square, was originated in 1864^ and
consists of members of both Houses of Parliament, members of the Univeruties, fdlows
of the learned and sdentifio societies, or gentlemen connected with literature, science,
and art. The device adopted by the Club is the fiird of Minerva, a copy of the reverse
of the dr<ichma of the Greeks.
Boodle's, 28, St. James's-street, is the noted " Savoir vivre" Club-house designed
by HoUand. It contains portraits of C. J. Fox and the Duke of Devonshire. Gibbon,
the historian, was one of its early members. Next door, 29, Gillray, the caricaturist*
in 1815, threw himself from an upstdrs window, and died in consequence.
Bbooes*s, the Whig Club-house, at 60, west side of St. James's-street^ was desgned
by Holland, and opened in 1778 ; but was originally established in Pall Mall, in 1764v
by the Duke of Portland, C. J. Fox, and others. It was formerly a gaming-dub, kept
by Almack, and then by Brooks, a wine-merchant and money-lender, who left the Club
soon after the present house was built, and died in poverty about 1782. Among the
early members were C. J. Fox, Burke, Sir Joshua Reynolds, Garrick, Horace Walpole,
Hume, Gibbon, and Sheridan. When Wilberforce was young and gay, he played here
at faro ; but his usual resort was at Goosetree's, in Pall Mall, where he one night kept
the bank and won 600Z. ; but this weaned him from gaming. On March 21, 1772,
Mr. Th^-nne retired from Brooks's in disgust, because he had won only 12,000 guineas
in two months. The Club was famous for wagers; and the old betting-book is an
oddity. Lord Crewe, one of the founders of the Club in Pall Mall, died in 1829, after
sixty-five years' membership of Brooks's. The Fox Club meet here.
*' At Brooke's, for nearly half a century, the play waa of a more nmbling character than at White's.
.... On one oecaeion. Lord Robert Spencer contrived to lose the last shilling of his considerable
fortune given him by his brother, the Duke of Marlborough. General Fitzpatrick being much in the
same condition, th^ agreed to raise a sum of money, in order that th^ might keep a fkro-bank. The
CLUBS AND CLUB-HOUSES, 243
nemben of the Clab made no Direction, and ere long they carried oat their design. Ab\b generally
ttie caae, the bank was a winner, and Lord Bobert bagged, as his share of the proceeds, 100,0002. He
retired, strange to say, from the fotid atmosphere of play, with the money in his pocket, and never
again gambled. Qeorge Harley Dnmunond, or the Cunoos bankinff^honse, Charing-cross, only plajed
once in his whole life at White's Club, at whist, on which occasion he lost 20,0002. to Brummell. This
event eaosed him to retire ftom the banking-honse, of which he was a partner."— Oopt Oronow,
BsxF-STEAic Society, '' the soblime Sodety of Beef-steaks" (bnt disdaining to be
tiiODglit a Club), oonsistB of twenty-four member^ noblemen and gentlemen, who dine
together off beef-steaks at five o'clock on Saturdays, from Kovember until the end of
Jnne, at their rooms in the Lyceum Theatre. The dining-room is lined with oak, and
decorated with emblematic gridirons, and in the middle of the ceiling is the gridiron
first used by the cook. The orthodox accompaniment to the steaks is arrack punch.
Each member may invito a friend. The Sodety originated with George Lambert, the ^
8oene-i»ainter of Covent Oarden Theatre during Kich's management, where Lambert *
often dined from a steak cooked on the fire in his painting-room, in which he was
frequently joined by his visitors. Thb led to the founcUng of the Society by Rich and
Lambert in 1735, in a room in the theatre. Aftor its rebuilding, the place of meeting
was changed to the Shakespeare Tavern, in the Piazza ; afterwards to the Lyceum
Theatre ; and on its destruction by fire in 1830, to the Bedford Hotel; and thence to
the Lyceum, rebuilt in 1834. The number of members was increased to twenty-five,
to admit the Prince of Wales, afterwards Oeorge lY. Charles Howard, Duke of
Korfi>Ik, was a leading member; and Captain Morxis was the laureat, the sun of this
" joYial system :" in 1831 he bade adieu to the Sodety, but in 1835 revisited it, and
was presented with an elegant silver bowl ; at the age of ninety he sung :
" When my spirits are low, fbr relief and delight,
1 still place yoor splendid memorial in sight;
And call to my taaae, when care strives to parrae,
' Bring the steaks to my mem'ry, and Uie bowl to my view.' "
The Uqnon are limited to port and ponch, in qoantity unlimited. The Glnb-bntton bean the CIab«
blaaon— ft gridiron yWaKM<, odoramt, oong, give-and-take Jest^not always of the smoothest— and fim
—the more rampant the welcomer— follow the feast of steaks. At the sale of the Cariosities belonging to
Mr. Ibriey, the comedian, in Gower-street, in November. 1868, a silver gridiron, won by a member of
the Steaks, was sold for 11. Ss. The gridiron anon which Bloh broiled his solitaiy steak was saved firom
the fire at Covent Garden Theatre, in 1808, ana is still preserved. In the above fire was lost the valuable
stock of wbie of the Club, and its original urchlves. Formerly, the damask table-cloths were figured
with gridirons ; and so were the drinking fflassee and idates. Among the presents made to the Society
are a ponch-ladle^ from Barrington Bradshaw: Sir John Boyd, va spoons; mustard-pot, by John
TrevanloDy ILP. ; two dosen water-plates and eight dishes, given by the Duke of Sussex ; cruet-stand,
by W. Bound : vinegar-eroet, by Thomas Scott. Lord Suffolk gave a silver cheese-toaster ; toasted or
stewed cheese being the wind-up of the dinner.— (See the fhUest account of the Beef-steak Sodety, in
Clmb JJif9 if Lottdon, vdL i. pp. 12S— 149 : 1806. See, also, Ked Ward's account of the Society, in its
early days.)
There was also a Beef-steak Club, which is mentioned by Ked Ward in 1709 ; Peg
Woffington was a member, and the president wore an emblem, a gold gridiron.
Among the other Beef-steak Societies or Clubs was the Club in Ivy-lone, of which
Dr. Johnson was a member ; a political Club, *' the Bump-steak or Liberty Club," in
existence in 1733-4^ in eager opposition to Sir Bobert Walpole; and at the Bell
Tavern, Hounds^tch, was held the Beef-steak Club, established by Beard, Woodward,
&Cj— See Memoirt qf Charles Lee Ijeune, vol. ii. p. 196.
Bxux-STOOiOKa Clitb, the, met at the house of Mrs. Montague, at the north-
west angle of Fortman-square. Forbes, in his Life of BeaUie, gives the following
account: "This Sodety consisted originally of Mrs. Montague, Mrs. Yesey, Miss
Boecawen, and Mrs. Carter, Lord Lyttelton, Mr. Pulteney, Horace Walpole, and Mr.
Stillingfleet. To the lattw this constellation of talents owed that whimsical appella-
tion of ' Bas-Bleu.' Mr. Stillingfleet being somewhat of a humorist in his habits
and manners^ and a littie negligent in his dress, literally wore grey stockings ; firom
which drcnmstance Admiral Boscawen used, by way of pleasantry, to call them ' The
Blue-Stocking Society,' as if to intimate that when these brilliant friends met it was
not for the purpose c^ farming a dressed assembly. A foreigner of distinction hearing
the ezpresnon, translated it literally ' Bas-Bleu,' by which these meetings came to be
afterwards distinguished." Dr. Johnson sometimes joined this drcle. The last of the
Club was the lively Miss Mondston, afterwards Countess of Cork, " who used to have
the finest hit of blue at the house of her mother Lady Galway." Lady Cork died at
upwards of ninety years of age at her house in New Burlington-street, in 1850.
B 2
244 CURIOSITIES OF LONDON.
Bbitibh Aim FoBEiGir Institute, George-street, Hanover-square, was formed by
James Silk Buckingham, under the patronage of Prince Albert, who was present at
the opening, in 1844. The leading object of the Institute was to afford a point of
nnion for literary and scientific men from all quarters of the globe, without distinction
of nation, politics, or creed ; to give facilities of introduction to strangers visiting the
metropolis from the country; and to add to the attractions of literature, science, and
art, the refinements and grace of feftiale society. The Club-rooms had the accommo-
dations of a family hotel. The Institute did not long exist.
Brothers' Club, the, was founded in 1711, by Lord Bolingbroke, for conversation
and moderate conviviality, but intended to eschew the drunkenness and extravagance
of the Kit Kat and Beefsteak Clubs. Among the other members, besides himself and
Swift, were Arbuthnot, Prior, Sir William Windham, Orrery, and the Duke of Ormond;
Masham and lus brother-in-law Hill (?) were also Brothers. They used to dine at the
Star and Garter, in Pall Mall^ latterly, to which tavern they had been induced to
transfer their custom, owing to the dearness of their previous landlord.
Carlton Club, the. Pall Mall, is a purely political Club, and was founded by the
late Duke of Wellington, and a few of his most influential political friends. It first
held its meetings in Charles-street, St. James's, in the year 1831. In the following
year it removed to larger premises. Lord Kensington's house, in Carlton-gardens. In
1836 an entirely new house was built for the club, in Pall Mall, by Sir Robert Smirke,
R.A., small in extent, and plain and inexpensive in its architecture. As the Club grew
in numbers and importance, the building soon became inadequate to its wants. In
1846, a very large addition was made to it by Mr. Sydney Smirke ; and in 1854 the
whole of the original buUding was taken down and rebuilt by Mr. Smirke, upon a
sumptuous scale, in florid Italian style, nearly a fac-simile of Sansovino's Library of St.
Mark, at Venice : the lower order Doric, the upper Ionic ; the six intercolumniations
occupied by arched windows, with bold keystones, and the upper window spandrels,
filled with sculpture ; above are a decorated frieze, rich cornice, and massive balustrade.
The fa9ade is of Caen stone, but the shafts and pilasters are of polished Peterhead
granite. Tliis new portion is intended to form one-third of the entire fafade.
Cavendish Club, the, 307, Regent-street, occupies one-half of the upper fa^e of
the Polytechnic Institution, the entrance being wholly distinct. The Reading-room,
42 feet square, and 20 feet high, has a larger supply of foreign and colonial news-
papers and literature than any other Club in the metropolis; the Cavendish presents
all the usual conveniences of a Club, except dinners.
Chess Clubs, see page 95.
City Club-house, 19, Old Broad-street, occupying the site of the old South Sea
House, was built in 1833, from the design of Hardwick, R.A. The style is handsome
Palladian ; the only sculpture is a rich festooned garland over the doorway. The
Club consists of merchants, bankers, and professional men of the City.
City Club, New, George-yard, Lombard-street, intended for merchants in the
City, was erected from a design by J. H. Rowley, architect, at the cost of 50,000^ :
it is the property of a company of merchants, who reserve to themselves the power of
admitting fr^h members. The front is of Portland stone, and in the centre the columns
and pilasters are of polished red granite. The frontage in George-yard u upwards of
100 feet, and there is an additional frontage and entrance in Bell-yard, Gracechurch-
street. The club-house is approached from George-yard through a Doric portico and
vestibule with granite columns and pilasters. The windows have carved key-stones, and
fruits and flowers over the architraves. The frieze and cornice are also enriched.
An agreeable novelty in decoration has been introduced by means of enamelled slate in
panels, imitating malachite and other marble, on the staircase walls. The rooms are all
decorated in gilding and colours, each having its own distinctive character as to colour.
Civil Sebyice Club, the, upon the site of the Thatched House Tavern, St.
James's-street, James Knowles, jun., architect, is occupied by an association of gentle-
man connected with the several branches of the Civil Service. The facade, 99 feet
high, is entirely of stone, and has a very elegant bay window ; the decorative carving,
by Daymond, represents real foliage and birds instead of mere conventional ornaments.
CLUBS AND CLUB-HOUSES. 2i5
In ezcaYating the focmdations— wbich were carried 30ft. below the level of the street^
tbeir saperfidal extent being about 7500 square feet — a collection of fossils was
discovered, including a good specimen of a lion's jaw and a variety of mammoth bones,
the andent denizens of the spot in centuries long passed; below this suriace the earth
was pierced another 80 ft^ to which depth the main tube of the hydraulic apparatus
dc9cend% its lifting power bdng obtained by the gradual rise of water let into the tube as
required. The Club-house rises above the surrounding buildings ; there is an exten-
sive panoramic view of town and country from its upper rooms, to which access is
obtained by two staircases, or by an hydraulic lift, which communicates with every
floor, and is of the newest and safest construction.
CiTiL Club, established in 1669, three years after the Great Fire, exists to this
day. One of the fundamental rules was, that but one person of the same trade or pro-
fesaon should be a member, the design being to render mutual assistance in business
nutters — a very desirable object, especially after the g^eat calamity above referred to.
The Club appears to have been a sort of court of appeal also. Thus, if one member
in his dealings with another did not feel satisfied with the quality or quantity of the
goods served to him, he could lay his grievance before the Club, who would decide the
matter. Of course, the rules have been somewhat modified, to meet the advanced
spirit of the times. The law excluding two of a trade is adhered to, to some extent.
The Civil Club met for many years at the Old Ship Tavern, Water-lane, whence it
removed to the New Com Exdiange Tavern, Mark-lane. The records show that
among former members were Parliament-men, baronets^ and aldermen ; the chaplain
is the incumbent of St. Olave-by-the-Tower, Hart-street. Two high carved dudrs, bear-
ing date 1669, are used by the Stewards. This is the oldest Club in existence.
CUFFOSD-BTBBET ChVB was, in the last century, a debating Society, which met once
a month at the Clifford-street Coffee-house, at the comer of Bond-street. The debaters
were chiefly Mackintosh, Richard Sharp, a Mr. Ollyett Woodhouse ; Charles Moore, son
of the celebrated traveller; and Lord Charles Townshend, fourth son of the fiicetious
and eccentric Marquis.. The great primitive principles of civil government were then
much discussed. It was before the French Revolution had " brought death into the
world and all its woe.*'
At the Clifibrd- street Society, Canning generally took ** the Liberal side " of the
above questions. His earliest prepossessions are well known to have inclined to this
side ; but he evidently considered the Society rather as a school of rhetorical exercise,
where he might acquire the use of his weapons, than a forum, where the serious pro-
feauon of opinions, and a consistent adherence to them, could be fairly expected of him.
Clvb Chambbbs, St. James's-square, north comer of King-street (formerly the
mansion of Lord Castlereagh, d. 1822), has been refironted in cement, in the Itelian
palazzo style (Johnson, architect) : the ground-fioor has some good vermiculated rustic-
work, and the windows of the King-street front are piquant.
CxuB Chahbebs, Regent-street, west side, between Pall Mall and Rccadilly, was
built in 1839, by Decimus Burton, cost 26,000/. The style is Italian ; the g^nnd-
story is nuticated, and terminated by a lace band, or string-course, enriched with the
Vitmvian scroll ; this forms a basement to three other stories, surmounted by a bold
and enriched cornice. The principal floor has handsome balconies, Corinthian columns,
and pediments ; but the whole fa9ade is too narrow for its height. The entrance is
beneath a portico with coupled Doric columns. The building contidns 77 chambers,
coffee and dining-rooms, and offices. The whole is ventilated, and warmed by hot
water, with complete skill ; and is supplied with water from a well 260 feet deep,
which is raised to the attic story by a steam-engine, also employed for lifting coals,
furniture, &c The Chambers are let in suites by the proprietors. They occupy the
site of a house built by Mr. Nash for Charles Blicke, Esq. ; it was filled with articles
of vertu and superb decoration ; among which was a small circular temple, supported
by Corinthian columns with brass capitals; and a conservatory embellished with
models from Canova. Altogether, this was one of the most elaborately-decorated houses
in the metropolis.
Cocoa-tsbe Club, the^ was the Tory Chocolate-house of Queen Anne*s reign ; the
246 CURIOSITIES OF LONDON.
Whig Coffee-hooM was the St. James's* lower down, in the aame street, St. James's.
The party distinction is thus defined : — " A Whig wUl no more go to the Cocoa-tree or
Ozinda's, than a Tory will he seen at the cofiee-honse of St. James's.'' The Cocoa-
tree Chocolate-house was converted into a Clab, probably before 1746, when the house
was the head-quarters of the Jaoubite party in Parliament. Horace Walpole, in a
letter to Oeorge Montagu, says : — " The Duke has given Brigadier Mordaunt Uie
Pretender's coach, on condition he rode up to London in it. ' That I will, mr,' said he ;
' and drive till it stops of its own accord at the Cocoa-tree.' *' Qibbon was a member
of this Club, and has left this entry, in hb journal 06 1762 :-—
*' Nov. M.— I dined at the Cocoartree with * * *, who, imder a great appeannoe of oddity^ooneealB
more real bumoar. gpod sense, and even knowledge, than half those who laogh at him. we went
thence to the plaj {Th* SpanUh Friar) ; and, when it was over, retired to the Coooartree. That respect-
able bodj, of which I have the honour of being a member, affords ererr evening a sifht tnily En^iah.
Twenty or thirty, perhaps, of the first men in the kingdom in point or fuhion and fortune, sapping at
little tables covered with a napkin, in the middle of a coffise-room, upon a bit of cold meat, or a sandwich,
and drinking a glass of punch. At present we are foil of Kins's counsellors and lords of the bed-
chamber, who, having Jumped into the ministry, make a vary JngniM' medley of their old princq»lea
and language with their modem ones."
Bribery, high play, and foul play, were common at the Cocoa-tree. Walpole teUs^
in 1780, of a cast at hazard here 'to 180,0002. The Cocoa-tree was one of the Claba
to which Lord Byron belonged.
CoNBEBYATiYX Club-housi, On the sito of the old Thatched House Tbvem, 74, St.
James's-street, was designed by Sydney Smirke and George Basevi, 1846. The upper
portion is Corinthian, with columns and pilasters, and a frieze sculptured with the
imperial crown and oak- wreaths; the lower order is Roman Doric ; and the wings are
slightly advanced, with an enriched entrance-porch north, and a bow-window south.
The interior is superbly decorated in colour by Sang : the coved hall, with a gallery
round it, and the domed vestibule above it, is a fine specimen of (German encaustic
embellishment, in the arches, soffites, spandrels, and ceilings ; and the hall floor is
tesselated, around a noble star of marqueterie. The evening room, on the first floor,
nearly 100 feet in length and 26 in breadth, has an enriched coved ceiling, and a
beautiful frieze of the rose, shamrock, and thistle, supported by scagliola Corinthian
columns ; the morning room, beneath, is of the same dimensions, with Ionic pillars.
The library, in the upper story north, has columns and pilasters with bronzed capitals ;
and beneath is the coffee-room. Here is no grained or imitative wood-work, the
doors and fittings being wainscot-oak, bird's-eye maple, and sycamore. The kitchen
is skilfully planned; exceeding the Reform Club kitchen in completeness.
This is the second Club of the Conservative party, and many of its chiefi are
honorary members, but rarely enter it ; the kte Sir Robert Peel is said never to have
entered this Club-house, except to view the interior.
Coxmrr Club, the (Proprietaiy), 43 and 44, Albemarle-street, connsts of noblemen,
members of the Church, the learned professions, officers of the army and navy, and
gentlemen, without reference to political distinction. The Duke of Wellington,
president of the oonmiittee, 1866.
CoTSNTBT House Club (the Ambassadobs*) was at 106, Piccadilly : the mansion
occupies the site of the old Greyhound Inn, and wns bought by the Earl of Coventry
of Sir Hugh Hnnlock, in 1764, for 10,0002., and 76Z. per annum ground rent.
Cbocepobd's Club-houss, 50, west side of St. James's-street, was built for Crockford
in 1827 ; B. and P. Wyatt» architect. It consists of two wings and a centre, with
four Corinthian pilasters with entablature, and a balustrade throughout; the g^round-
floor has Venetian windows, and the upper story large French windows. The entrance
hall has a screen of Roman-Ionic scagliola columns with gilt capitals, and a cupola of
gilding and stained glass. The coffee-room and library have Ionic columns* from the
Temple of Minerva Polias ; the staircase is panelled with scagliola, and enriched with
Corinthian columns. The grand drawing-room is in the style of Louis Quatorze :
azure ground, with elaborate cove, ceiling enrichments bronze-gilt, doorway paintings
d la Walteau ; and panelling, masks, and terminals heavily gilt. The interior was
redeoonited in 1849, and opened for the Militaiy, Xaval, and County Service Club, but
was dosed in 1851. It is now <' the Wellington" Dining-rooms.
CLJ7B8 AND CLUB-EOUSES. 247
Ciockford ftarted in life as a fishmonger, in the old balk-shop next door to Temple Bar Without,
wbieh he quitted for " plii^ " in St. James's. He began bj taking Watier's old Club-house, where he
■et Tip ahaxard-bank, and won a great deal of money; he then separated from his partner, who had a
bmd jear, and IStUed. Crockford now removed to Bt. James's-street, had a good year, and built the
magvnfieent Gnb-house which bore his name; the decorations alone are said to have cost him 94^0002.
Tbe election of the Club members was vested in a committee; the house appointments were superb,
' dT^dewas engaged as maiire d^hStel, *' Crockford's " now became the high ftshlon. Card-tables
9 imlarly nlaced, and whist was played occasionally ; but the aim, end, and final cause of the whole
the Dazard-bank, at which the pronnetor took his nightly stand, prepared for all comers. His
■peculation was eminently suocessfol. JDnring several years, everything that any body had to lose and
eared to risk was swallowed up ; and Crockford becune a millionaire. He retired in 1840, " much as aa
Indian chief retires from a hunting oountiy when there is not game enough left for his tribe ;'* and the
Clnb then tottered to its fhli. After Crockford's death, the lease of the Club-house (thirty-two years,
vent 140(M.) was sold for 28002.
ViLsmsTi Society ori^nated in 1734, with a party of Dilettanti (lovers of the
&w arts), who had travelled or resided in Italy. In 1764, they commissioned certain
artists to jonmey to the East, to illustrate its antiquities ; and by the aid of the Society
fleveral important works, including Stuart's Athens, have been published. The Dilettanti
met at Farsloe's, in St. James's-street, whence they removed to the Thatched House, in
1799, where they dined on Sundays from February to July.
In ttie list of members, between 1770 and 1790, occur the names of Sir Joshua Reynolds, Earl Fits-
Payne Knight, Sir Geoi^e Beaumont, Towneley, and others of less posthumous fame.
The funds of the Sodety were largely henefited by the payment of fines. Those
* on increase of income, hy inheritance, legacy, marriage, or preferment," are very
odd: as, five guineas by IiOTd Grosvenor, on his marriage with Miss Leveson Gower;
eleven guineas hy the Duke of Bedford, on being appointed First Lord of the
Admiralty; ten guineas compounded for hy Bubh Dodington, as Treasurer of the
Navy ; two guineas by the Duke of Kingston for a Colonelcy of Horse (then valued
at 400^. per annum) ; twenty-one pounds by Lord Sandwich on going out as Ambassador
to the Congress at Aix-la-Cbapelle ; and twopence three-farthings by the same noble-
man* on becoming Recorder of Huntingdon ; thirteen shillings and fourpence by the
Duke of Bedford, on getting the Garter ; and sixteen shillings and eightpenoe (Scotch)
by the Duke of Buodeuch, on getting the Thistle ; twenty-one pounds by the Earl of
Hddemesee, as Secretary of State ; and nine pounds, nineteen shillings and sixpence,
by Charles James Fox, as a Lord of the Admiralty.
The Eode^, in 1835, included, among a list of sixty-four names, those of Sbr William Gell, Mr.
7owneley, Richard Westmacott, Henry Hallam, the Duke of Bedford, Sir M. A. Shee, P.R.A., Henry T.
Hope ; and Lord Prudhoe, afterwards Duke of Northumberland.
The Dilettanti have never built themselves a mansion. They continued to meet at
the Thatched House Tavern, the large room of which was hung with portraits of the
Dilettanti. Sir Joshua Reynolds painted for the Society three capital pictures :— >
1. A group, in the manuer of Paul Veronese, containing the portraits of the Duke of Leeds, Lord
Dimdas, Constuntine Lord Mulgrave, Lord Seaforth, the Hon. Charles Greville, Charles Crowle, £s(^.,
and Sir Joseph Banks. 2. A group, in the manner of the same master, containing portraits of Sir
WiUiam Hamilton, Sir Watkin W. Wynne, Richard Thomson, Esq., Sir John Taylor, Payne Galway,
Esq., John Smythe, Eso^i and Spencer 6. Stanhope, Esq. 3. Head of Sir Joshua, dressed in a loose
robe, in his own hand. The earlier portraits in the collcotion are by Hudson, Reynolds's master.
There is a mixture of the convivial in the portraits; many are using wine-glasses,
and of a small size. Lord Sandwich, in a Turkish costume, has a brimming goblet in
his left hand, and a capacious flask in his right. Sir Bourchier Wray is mixing punch
in the cabin of a ship ; the Earl of Holdemesse, in a red cap, as a gondolier, Venice in
the background ; Charles Sackville, Duke of Dorset, as a Eoman senator, dated 1788 ;
Lord Galloway, in the dress of a Cardinal ; Lord Le Despencer as a monk at his devo-
tions. The Lite Lord Aberdeen, the Marquises of Northampton and Lansdovme,
Colonel Lecky, Mr. Broderip, and Lord Northwick, were members. The Society now
meet at the Clarendon Hotel ; the Tliatched House being taken down. An excellent
account of the Dilettanti Society will be found in the Edinburgh Meview, No. 214.
The character of the Club, however, became changed ; the members being originally
persons almost exclusively devoted to art and antiquarian studies. The Dilettanti are
now a publishing society, like the Roxburghe, the Camden, and others.
East IvjyjA Ukitxp Ssbtics Club-house, St. James's-square, was erecied iu
248 CUItlOSITIES OF LONDON.
1866, upon tLe site of two houses. No. 14 and 16. The style is handsome Italian ;
architect, Charles Lee. The East India United Service Clnb was founded, in 1848* to
meet the wants of the varioos seryices which administer the Indian Government. It
has, however, gradually lost its exclusively Indian character, especially since the transfer
of our Eastern Empire to the Queen, and it has now on its rolls many officers belonging
to the home forces. The Club numbers upwards of 1760 members, of whom geoerall j
about 800 are in England. The new building has been designed to accommodate over
1000 members. The classic fafade next the new Club-house was built by Athenian
Stuart for Lord Anson ; and No. 15 was the residence of Lady Francis, who lent the
house to Carohne, Queen of George IV.
EcCEVTBic Clubs. — In Ward's Secret Hietory, we read of the Golden Fleece Clab»
a rattle-brained society, originally held at a house in Cornhill, so entitled. They were
a merry company of tippling citizens and jocular change-brokers. Each member on
his admission had a characteristic name assigned to him ; as, Sir Hmothy Addlepate,
Sir Nimmy Sneer, Sir Talkative Do-little, Sir Skinny Fretwell, Sir Rumbus Rattle*
Sir Boozy Prate-all, Sir Nicholas Ninny Sipall, Sir Gregory Growler, Sir Pay-little,
&c. The Club flourished until the decease of the leading member ; when they adjourned
to the Three Tuns, Southwark. " It appears, by their books in general, that, since
their first institution, they have smoked fifty tons of tobacco, drunk thirty thousand
butts of ale, one thousand hogsheads of red port, two hundred barrels of brandy, and
one kilderkin of small beer. There had been likewise a g^eat consumption of cards."
EccEHTBics, The.— Late in the last century, there met at a tavern kept by one
Fulham, in Chandos-street, Covent-garden, a convivial dab called " The Eccentrics,"
which was an oflbhoot of " The Brilliants." They next removed to Tom Rees'a^ in
May's-buildings, St. Martin's-lane ; and here they were fiourisbing at all hours, some
five-and-twenty years since. Amongst the members were many celebrities of the
literary and political world ; they were always treated with indulgence by the authori-
ties. An inaugural ceremony was performed upon the making of a member, which
terminated with a jubilation from the president. The books of the Club, up to the time
of its removal from May's-buildings, are stated to have passed into the possession of
Mr. Lloyd, the hatter, of the Strand, who, by the way, was eccentric in his busnessy
and published a small work descriptive of the various fashions of hats worn in his time,
illustrated with characteristic enjrravings. From its commencement, the Eccentrics are
said to have numbered upwards of 40,000 members, many of them holding high social
position : among others. Fox, Sheridan, Lord Melbourne, and Lord Brougham. On the
same memorable night that Sheridan and Lord Petersham were admitted, Hook was
also enrolled ; and through this Club membership, Theodore is believed to have obtained
some of his high connexions. In a novel, published in numbers, some five-and-twenty
years since, the author, F. W. N. Bayley, sketched with graphic vigour the meetings
of the Eccentrics at the old tavern in May's-buildings. — Club Life of London, vol. i.
p. 308, 1866.
ERECHTHEim Clxtb-hoxtse, was in St. James's-square (entrance, 8, York-street),
and was the house of Wedgwood, whose beautiful " ware" was shown in its rooms.
It was formerly the site of Romocy House; and from its windows William III. used
to witness the fireworks in the Square at public rejoicings. Tlie Club, long extinct,
was established by Sir John Dean Paul, Bart., the banker, and became somewhat noted
for its good dinners.
Essex Head Club, the, was established by Dr. Johnson, at the Essex Head, in
Essex-street, Strand, then kept by Samuel Greaves, on old servant of Mr. ThnUc's : it
was called "Sam's." Sir Joshua Reynolds refused to join it; but Daines Barrington,
Dr. Brocklesby, Arthur Murphy, John Nichols, Dr. Hursley, and Mr. Windham, and
Boswell, were of the Club. Dr. Johnson wrote the Rules, when he invented the word
" clubbable." Alderman Clark, Lord Mayor and Chambcrlun, was, probably, the last
surviving member of this Club ; he died in 1831, aged 92.
Fabhebs' Club, the, originally formed at the York Hotel, Bridge-street, Blackfriars,
'* open to practical farmers and scientific men of all countries," has now a handsome Club-
house (the Salisbury Hotel), Salisbury-square, Fleet-street; architect, Giles ; built 1865.
CLUBS AND CLUB-HOUSES. 249
FiELDnro Club, Maiden-laoe, Covent-garden. Albert Smith was a leading menO'
ber; and the Club gave seyeral amatenr representations " for the immediate relief of
emergendes in the literary or theatrical world."
FouB-nr-HAiTD Clttb, the, originated some seventy years ago, when the Hon.
Charles Finch, brother to the Earl of Aylesford, nsed to drive • hif own ooach-and-four,
disguised in a livery great-ooat. Soon after, " Tommy Onslow," Sir John Lade, and
otberB, moonted the box in their own characters. The Fonr-in-Hand combined
gastronomy with equestrianism and charioteering : they always drove out of town to
dinner. The vehicles of the Club which were formerly used, are described as of a
bybrid class, quite as elegant as private carriages, and lighter than even the minis.
They were horsed with the finest animals that money could secure. In general, the
whole four in each carriage were admirably matched; grey and chestnut were the
&TOQrite colours, but occasionally very black horses, or sudi as were freely flecked with
white, were preferred. The master generally drove the team, often a nobleman of
high rank, who commonly copied the dress of a mail-coachman. The company usually
rode outride^ but two footmen in rich Uveries were indispensable on the back seat ; nor
was it at all uncommon to see some splendidly-attired female on the box. A rule of
the Club was, that all members should turn out three times a week ; and the start was
made at mid-day, from the neighbourhood of Kocadilly, through which they passed to
the Windsor-road — the attendants of each carriage playing on their rilver bugles.
From twelve to twenty of these handsome vehicles often left London together. Forty
years back, there were from thirty-four to forty four-in-hand equipages to be seen oon«
stantly about town. Their number is now considerably less.
OiSBicK Club-house, Garrick-street, Covent Garden, contains a collection of
theatrical paintings and drawings, i)psembled by Charles Mathews, the elder, and be-
qneathed by a member of the Club : they include :
EUitton aa Octavlan, by Singleton ; Hacklln (aged 93), by Opte ; Mrs. Pritcbard, by Hayman ; Peg
Woffington, by B. Wilson; Nell Owrmie, by Sir Peter Lely; Mrs. Abington; Samuel Foote, by Sir
Josboa Beynolda; CoUer Gibber as Lord Foppington; Mrs. Braoegirdle; Kitt^ Clive: Mrs. Kobinaon,
aft«r Beynolda; Ganick as Macbetb, and Jirs. Pritcbard. Lady Macbeth, St Zofluiy ; Garrick aa
KiiharduJLl^Morland,ien.; Young Boadua, by Opie; (tein, by Hogarth t Rich and his Family, br
Uoirirth ; Charlea Mathews, four charactera, by Harlowe ; Nat Lee^ pamted m Bedlam ; Anthony Leign
u the Spanish Friar, by Kneller ; John Liston, by Clint; Munden, by Opie ; John Johnstone, by Shee;
]<ac7 in three charactera, by Wright; Scene from Charles XL, by Clint ; Mrs. Siddons aa Lady Macbeth,
^7 Yandergocht; King as Toochstone, by Zoflkny; Thomas Do^et; Henderson, by Oalnsborouffh ;
uderCoknan, by Reynolds: Mrs. Oldfield, by KneUer : Mrs. Billiogton; Nancy Dawson; Screen Scene
from the ** Sehooi for Scandal." aa oriainallT cast; Scene lh>m ** Venice Preserved " (Qarrick and Mra.
^bber), by Zoflkny; Scene troim "Macbeth** (Henderson); Scene from "Love, Law, and Physio''
(Uatbews, Lbton, Blanchwd, and Emery), by Clint; Scene ftx>m the " ClandMtine Marriage " (King
>nd Mr. and Mrs. Baddeley)* by Zoflkny ; Weston aa BiIlyBatton,by Zofikny. The following have been
presented to the Qnb : Busts of Mrs. Siddons and J. P. Kemble, by Mrs. Siddons ; of Garrick, Captain
f^rrrat, Dr. Kitehiner, and Malibran ; Garrick, by Boubiliac ; Griffin and Johnson in the " Alchemist,"
oj Von Bleeck ; miniatures of Mrs. Robinson and Peg Wofflngton; Sketch of Kean, by Lambert ; Gar-
rick Mulberry-tree Snufl'-box ; Joseph Harris aa Cardinal Wolsey, from the Strawberry-hill Collection ;
proof print of the Trial of Queen Katharine, by Harlowe. In the Smoking-room is a splendid searpiece,
WStanjield; and Balbec, by David Boberta; portrait of R. Keeley, by CNcil; Frederick Yatea aad
An. Darison ; also a statuette of Thackeray ; wad a most Talnable collection of theatrical printa.
The pictures may be seen by the personal introduction of a member of the Club on
^^ednesdays (except in September), between eleven and three o'clock. The Garrick
Club was instituted in 1831, " for the general patronage of the Drama ; the formation
of a Theatrical Library, and Works, and Costume; and for bringing together the
patrons of the Drama," &c. The Qarrick is noted for its summer gin-punch, thus
nuidc : Pour half-a-pint of gin on the outer peel of a lemon, then a little lemon-juice,
a ^lass of maraschino^ a pint and a quarter of water, and two bottles of iced soda-water.
Tluj Club originally met at 29, King-street, Covent Garden, previously " ProbattV
lioteL The old place, inconvenient as it was, will long preserve the interest of associa-
tion for the older members of the Garrick. From James Smith (of Rejected Ad'
dresnet) to Thackeray, there is a long series of names of distinguished men who have
ma^ie Uie Garrick their favourite haunt, and whose memories are connected with those
i^ma. The Dub removed to their present manaon, built for them; Marrable^
uchltect. The style is elegant Italian.
^50 CURIOSITIES OF LONDON.
Qbeshaic Club-hoitsb, St. Swithin's-lane, King WiUiam-streety City, was built in
1844, for the Club named after Sir Thomas Gresham, who founded the Boyal Ex-
change. The Club conmsts chiefly of merchants and profesuooal men. The style of
the Club-house (H. Flower, architect) is Italian, from portions of two palaces in Venice.
Obilliok'b Club, of which the Fiftieth Anniversary was celebrated. May 6, 1863,
by a banquet at the* Clarendon, the Earl of Derby in the chair, was founded half a
century since, by the Parliamentary men of the time, as a neutral ground on which they
might meet. Politics are strictly excluded from the Club : its name is derived from
Grillion's Hotel, in Albemnrle-street, at which the Club originally met. On Jan. 80,
1860, there was sold at Puttick and Simpson's a series of seventy-nine portraits of
members of this Club, comprising statesmen, members of the Government, and other
highly distinguished persons during the last half century. These portraits, all of
which were private plates, were engraved by Lewis, after drawings by J. Slater
and G. Richmond. There were also four duplicate portraits, a vignette title. Rules of
the Club, and list of its memben. In this list, the only original surviving members
are fo\3i,—NoU9 and Queries, 8rd S. ; May 23, 1863.
The members present at the 60th
ported by the Dake of Newcastie, K.6.; tbe J£ari
iC.G., O.C.B., of Qimarvon2of Harrowby, E.G., &
and Eyerslqr ; the Bishop of Oxford ; Lords StaDler, Elcho, Robert Cecil, Clinton, Lyttelton, Wodahonse,
Monteagle, Cnnworth, Ebnry, Chelmsford, and Taunton; the Secretaries of State fiar the Home and
Indian Departments ; the Hons. John Ashlej, E. Pleydell Bonverie. and G. M. Fortescue; the Right
Hons. Sir F. Baring, Sir Thomas Fremantle, Spencer Walpole, Edward Cardwell, Sir Edmnnd Head, and
C. B. Adderley: Vice-Chancellor Sir W. Page Wood; the Lord Advooate; Sirs P. De Gr^ Egerton,
Thomas Drke Achmd, W. Heathoote, James East^ J. Shaw Lefevre, K.C.B., and Hogh Cairns; Messrs.
Hastings Bossell and Thomas Dyke Aclandj Colonel Wilson Patten; Messrs. Barinf, Boiler, Childcrs,
€. C. Greville, Monckton Milnes, Morier, Ker Sqrmer, W. Stirling, Wri^tson, and Richmond. The
undermentioned members were unavoidably absent:— The Marquis of Westminster, K.G.; Earls De
jGrey, Russell, and Grosvenor; Yisconnts Sandon, StratfoAd de ReddifTe, G.C.B., and Lovaine; Lord
Xingadowu, the Hon. B. Curzon, Sir C. Lemon, Sir RoundRl Palmer, and the Rev. H. WeUesl^.
GxTAKDs' Clitb, the, was formerly housed in St. James's-street, next Crockford's; but,
in 1850, they removed to F^l Mall, No. 70. The new Club-house was dengned for them
by Henry Harrison, and is remarkable for compactness and convenience. The architect
has adopted some portion of a design of Sansovino's in the lower part or basement.
iNBEPSKPEiiTS, the, established in 1780, was a Club of about forty members of the
House of Commons, opponents of the Coalition Ministry, whose principle of union was
a resolution to take neither place, penaon, nor peerage. In a few years, Wilberforce
and Bankes were the only ones of the incorruptible forty who were not either peers,
pensioners, or placemen.
iTT-LAins Club, Patemoster-row, was formed by Dr. Johnson; his friend. Dr.
Bichard Bathurst ; Hawksworth ; and Hawkins, the attorney, afterwards Sir John
Hawkins. The Club was shut up the year before Johnson's death* About this time
he instituted a Club at the Queen's Arms, St. Paul's Churchyard.
JuNiOB Cabi/ton, the, was instituted in 1864, and *' is a political Club in strict con-
nexion with the Conservative party, and designed to promote its objects. The only
puraons eligible for admission are those who profess Conservative principles, and ac-
knowledge the recognised leaders of the Conservative party," which Rule each mem-
ber, on joining, signs. The Club is temporarily located at 14>, Regent-street; but a
freehold site on the north side of Pall Mall has been secured for a new Club-house, to
cost 37,0002., and to be ready in 1868. The Qub, in May, 1866, consisted of 1624
members ; the subscriptions in 1865 amounted to 17,0812. ; cost of wines and spirits,
81092. ; cigars, 458/.
King of Clubs, the, set on foot about 1801, by Bobus Smith (brother of Sydney),
met at the Crown and Anchor Tavern, Strand. Among the members were " Conver-
sation Sharp ;" Scarlett, afterwards Lord Abinger ; Rogers, the poet ; honest John
Allen ; Dumont, the French emigrant ; Wishart, and Charles Butler. Curran often
met Erskine here.
KiT-KAT Club, a society of thirty-nine noblemen and gentlemen, zealously attached
to the Protestant succession in the House of Hanover. The Club is said to have
originated about 1700, in Shire-hme, Temple Bar, at the house of Chrbtopher Kat, a
The centenarjr of the Clab wag commemorated in 1864 at the Clarendon, when were preeent— in the '
^air, the Dean of St Paul's; his Excellency M. van de Wejer, Earls Clarendon and Stanhope, the
ABbopt of London and Oxford; Lords Brougham, Stanley, Cranworth, Kingsdown, and Harry vane;
»e Biffht Hon. Sir Edmund Head, Spencer Walpole, and Bobert Lowe : Sir Henry Holland, Sir C. East-
ttke, Sir Boderick Mnrehiaon, Vice-Chancellor Sir W. Page Wood, the Master of Trinity, Professor
Owen, Mr. O. Qrote, Mr. C. Austen, Mr. H. Beere. and Mr. G. Richmond. Among the few memben
Prerented from attending were the I>ttke of Argyll, the Eari of Carlisle, Earl Bussell, the Chancellor of
ue Eichcqner, Lord Overstone, Lord Glenelg, and Mr. W. Stirling. Mr. N. W. Senior, who was the
political economist of the Club, died a few days previously. The Secretary is Dr. Milman, Dean of St.
mi's ; who keeps the books and archires of the Club ; the autographs are valuable. Among the me-
norialt is the portrait of Sir Joshua Beynolds, with spectacles on, which he painted and presented to
the Oubr-See CM Xt/« qf London, vol. L pp. 80^218. 1866.
CLUBS AND CLUB-HOUSES. 251
pestiycook, where the memhen dined : he excelled in making matton-pies, always in «
the bill of fiire, and called Kit-kats ; hence the name of tlft Society. I
Jacob Tonson, the bookseller, was secretary. Among the members were the Dukes of SomerseL lUch- ^
mood, Grafton, DevonahircL and Marlborough ; and (after the aeceesion of George L) the Duke of New- S
astl«, the Earls of Dorset^ Sunderland, Manchester, Wharton, and Kingston ; Lords Haliihx and Somers ; ■
Bir Bobert Walpole, Gartn, Yanbrugh, Conffrere, Granville, Addison, Maynwarln«, Stepney, and Walsh.
Pope tdJs OS that ** the day Lord Mohun ana the Earl of Berkeley were entered of the Club, Jacob said
be nw ther were Just goii^ to be ruined. When Lord Mohun broke down the gilded emblem on the top
of Hi chair, Jacob complained to hla friends, and said that a man who CQuld do that would cut a man'a
throat So that be had the good and the forma of the Society at heart The paper was all in Lord
Halifaz't writing, of a sabscription of 400 guineas for the encouragement of good comedies, and was
dated 1709. Soon after that theybroke up."— (Spence's Antedoteg.) Tonson had his own and all their
portraits pamted by Sir Godfrey Kneller ; each member gave him his ; and, to suit the room, a shorter
ouTaf was used (viz., 96 by 28 inches), but sufBciently long to admit a hand, and still known as the Kit-
nt nae. Tlie pictures, 48 in number, were removed to Tonson's seat at Bam Elms, where he built a
Mftriwme room for th^ recepticm. At hia death in 1796, Tonson left them to his great-netdiew, also
an emmeot bookseller, who died in 1767. The pictures were then removed to the house of his brother,
>t WaterOaUey, near Windsor; and, on his death, to the house of Mr. Baker, of Hertingfordbuzy,
where ther now remain.
Wabofe speaks of the Club as " the patriots that saved Britain," as having " its beginning abont the
Ttial of the Seven Biahops in the reign of James II.." and consisting of ** the most eminent men who
Jjpposed the reign of that arbitrary monarch." Garth wrote some verses for the toasting*glas8 of the
C^i^, which have immortalized fbur of the reigningbeanties at the oommenoement of the last centnir :
m Ladies CarlisliL Essex, Hyde, and Wharton. Halilhx similarly commemorated the charms of the
pncbegies of St. Albans» Beaoibr^ and Bichmond; Ladies Sunderland and Mary Churchill ; and Mdlle.
epaaheiineb
Law IirsTiTXTTioir, the, west side of Chancery-lane, was hailt in 1882 (Vnlliamy,
architect), for the Law Sodoty of the United Kingdom ; and comhinee a valuable
Hbraiy with a hall and office of registry, with Club accommodation. The Chancery-
^ front hat a Grecian-Ionic portico, with a pediment of considerable beauty ; and
the Club front in Bell-yard resembles that of an Italian palace. The Society conusts
of attorneys, solidtors, and proctors j>ractising in Great Britain and Ireland, and of
Writers to the Scottish Signet and Courts of Justice; and certificates of attorneys and
solicitors must he registered here hefore granted by the Commissioners of Stamps.
Law lectures, limited to one hour, are delivered here during term in the Great HaU.
Ltteiiabt Club, the, was founded in 1764 by a knot of good and great men, who
loet at the Turk's Head Tavern, in Soho, first at the comer of Greek-street and Comp-
ton-street, and subsequently hi Gerard-street, the founders being Sir Joshua Beynolds
^ Dr. J(dmson. The members were limited to nine, including Beynolds, Johnson,
Hawkins, and Burke, and Goldsmith, notwithstanding Hawkins's ohject^on to Oliver as
"a mere literary drudge." The members met one evening at seven for supper, in
1/72. The supper was changed to a dinner, and the members increased to twenty,
sod it was at length resolved that it should never exceed forty. In 1788 the land-
lord died, and the tavern was converted into a private house. The members then re-
ii^ed to Prince's, in Sackville-street ; and on this house being soon shut up they
removed to Baxter's, afterwards Thomas's, in Dover-street. In 1792 they removed to
Pardee's, in St. James's-street, and thence to the Thatched House, in the same street.
^ reader will recollect Lord Chancellor Thurlow's rough reply to the prim Peer,
^bo, in a dehate in the House of Lords, having pompously dted certain resolutions
pu>ed by a party of noblemen and gentlemen at the Thatched House, said, " As to
what the noble Lord in the red ribbon told us he had heard at the eUe-house" &c.
Prom the time of Garrick's death, the Club was known as " The Literary Club," since
which it has certainly lost its claim to this epithet. It was originally a cluh of authors
hf profettUm ; it now numbers few except titled members, which was very &r tcom
the intention of the founders. The name of the Club is now " The Johnson."
252 CUBI08ITIE8 OF LONDON.
Hebicaid Club, the, was long Bald to bave been held in Friday-street, Cheap-
ride ; but Ben Jonson has settled it in Bread-street ; and Mr. W. Hunter, in his
Noiet on Shakspeare, has, in a schedule of 1603, ''Mr. Johnson, at the Mermaid, in
Bread-street." Mr. Bum, in the Beawfoy Catalogue, explains: "The Mermaid in
Bread-street, the Mermaid in Friday-street, and the Mermaid in Cheap, were all one
and the same. The tavern, rituated behind, had a way to it £rom these thoroughfares,
but was nearer to Bread-street than Friday-street." Mr. Bum adds, in a note, " The
site of the Mermaid is clearly defined, from the drcumstanoe of W. R., a haberdasher
of small wares, * 'twixt Wood-street and Milk-street,' adopting the same sign * over
against the Memuud Tftvem in Cheapside.' " The tavern was destroyed in the Great Fire.
Here Sir Walter Raleigh la traditioiuLlly said to have inatitated »The Mermaid Club." Gifford has
Ml the Club, adopting the tradition and the Fridav-atreet location:— "Aboat this time
thus described
ne03J Jonaon probably began to aoqaire that torn for conviviality for which he was afterwards noted.
Sir Walter Balefgh, previously to his unfortunate engagement with the wretched Gobham and olhera,
had instituted a meeting of h«aux upriU at the Mermaid, a celebrated tavern in Friday-streeL Of this
Club, which combined more talent and genius than ever met together before or since, our author was a
member : and here for many years he regularly repaired, with Shakspcare, Beaumont^ Fletcher, Selden,
Cotton, Carew, Martin, Donne, and many others, whose names, evoi at this distant period, call up a
mingled feeling of reverence and respect." But this is doubted. A writer in the ii<*«n««m, Sept. 1^
1866, states :--*' The origin of the common tale of Baleigh founding the Mermaid Club, of which Shak-
apeare is said to have been a member, has not been traced. Is it older than Oifford P" Again : *' Gifford's
apparent invention of the Mermaid Club. Prove to us that Baleigh founded the Mermaid Club, that
the wits attended it under his presidency, and yon will have made a real contribution to our knowledge
of Shakspeare's time, even if yon fidl to snow that our Poet was a member of that Club." The tradition,
it is thought, must be added to the long list of Shakspearian doubts. Nevertheless, Fuller has described
the wit'combats between Shakspeare and Ben Jonson, which he beheld— meaning with his mind's eye ;
for he was only eight years old when Shakspeare died.— CJ«i Xi/« qfLondmny vol. i. p. 81. 18i6.
MITLBEBBII3, the, a Club orig^ated in 1824^ at the Wrekin Tavern, Covent-
garden, with the regulation that some paper, or poem, or conceit, bearing npon
Shakspeare, should be contributed by each member. Hither came Douglas Jerrold
and Laman Blanchard, William Godwin, Kenny Meadows; Elton, the actor; and
Chatfield,the artist; "that knot of wise and jocund men, then unknown, but gaily
straggling." The Mulberries' Club gathered a number of contributions, " mulberry-
leaves," but they have not been printed. The name of the Club was changed to the
Shakspeare, when it was jolued by Charles Dickens, Justice Talfourd, Maclise,
Macready, Frank Stone, &c The Mulberries' meetings are embalmed in Jerrold's
Cakes and Ale, There we^e other Clubs of this class, as the Qratb and the Rationals,
the Hooks and Eyes and Our Club.
MnsExric Club, the, at the north end of Northumberland-street, was established in
1847, as " a properly modest and real literary Club." Jerrold, and Mahony (Father
Front) enjoyed their " intellectual gladiatorship" at the Museum ; but its life was briefr
National CLrB-Honss, I, Whitehall-gardens, has a noble saloon, 80 feet in length,
hung with large tapestry pictures, in the manner of Teniers : they are of considerable
age, yet fresh in colour.
Naval Clxtb, The Rotal, originated as follows : — About the year 1674, according
to a document in the possession of Mr. Fitch, of Norwich, a Naval Club was started
" for the improvement of a mutuall Society, and an encrease of Love and Kindness
amongst them ;" and that consummate seaman. Admiral Sir John Kempthome, was
declared Steward of the institution. This was the precursor of the Royal Naval Club
of 1765, which, whether considered for its amenities or its extensive charities, may be
justly cited as a model establishment. (Admiral Smyth's Rise and Progress of the
Eogal Society Club, p. 9.) The members of this Club annually distribute a con-
siderable sum among the distressed widows and orphans of those who have spent their
days in the naval service of their country. The Club was accustomed to dine together
at the Thatched House Tavern, 'on the anniversary of the Battle of the Nile. It is
confined exclusively to members of the Naval Service : it has numbered among its
members men from the days of Boscawen, Rodney, and the ' first of June' downwards.
It was a favourite retreat for William IV. when Duke of Clarence ; and his comrade.
Sir Philip Durham, the survivor of Nelson, and almost the last of the "old school*"
frequent^ it.
CLUBS AND CLUB'EOUSES, 253
XiYAL AiTD MnjTASY Clitb, the, 94^ Ficcadilly-^Cambridge House, the town
residence of the Ute Yisoount Palmerston.
KonoiCAGiAirs. — The more convivially-t^sposed members of learned London Socie-
ties have, from time to time, formed themselves into Clubs. The Royals have done
so, ab initio. The Antiquaries appear to have given up their Club and their Anuivcr-
nry Dinner; but certain of the Fellows, resolving not to remain impratui, many years
iince, formed a Club, styled " Noviomagians," from the identiUcation of the Roman
statioQ of Noviomagus being just then reputedly discovered*
One of the Club-fonnden was Mr. A. f. Kempe ; and Mr. Crofbon Croker v/oa president more than
twenty jean. Lord Londesborough, Mr. Comer, the Sonthwark antiquary, and Mr. Foirholt, were also
XoTionuuisas; and in the present Club-list are Sir William Betham, Mr. Godwin, Mr. S. C. Hall, Mr.
Ifxaoa, oc. The Members dine together once a month, during the season. Joking minutes are kept,
amoog which are found man j known names, either as visitors or associates :— Theodore Hook, Sir
Hennr Ellis, Britton, Dickens, Thackeray, John Bruce, Jerdan, Planch^, Bell, Maclise,ftc. The wits have
foand Arms for the Club, with a butter-boat rampant for the crest. In 1855, Lord Mayor Moon, F.S.A.,
entertained the Noviomagians at the Mansion House.
OcTOBrai Clttb, named from its " October ale/' was formed at the Bell Tavern, King-
street, Westminster, and, in 1710, were for impeaching every member of the Whig party,
iBd for taming out every placeman who did not wear their colours, and shout their cries.
Swift was great at the October Club: in a letter, February 10, 1710-11, he says :
" We are plagued here with an October Club : that is, a set of above a hundred Parliament-men of
the eonntry, who drink October beer at home, and meet every evening at a tavern near the Parliament,
1o eoQsnlt aflbirs, and drive things on to extremes against the Whigs, to call the old ministry to account,
md tret off five or six heads." Swift's Advice humUv offered to the Membere qfthe October Cub had the
imr&i effect of softening some, and convincing others, until the whole body of malcontents was first
diTided and finally dissolved.
The red-hot " tantivies," for whose loyalty the October Club was not thorough-going
^ougb, seceded from the original body, and formed the March Club, more Jacobite
Uid rampant in its hatred of the Whigs than the Society from which it branched.
Obientaii Club, the, was established in 182 i, by Sir John Malcolm, the traveller
ttd brave soldier. The members were noblemen and gentlemen associated with the
administration of our Eastern empire, or who had travelled or resided in Asia, at St.
Helena, in Egjrpt, at the Cape of Good Hope, the Mauritius, or at Constantinople.
'The Oriental wsis erected in 1827-8, by B. and P. Wyatt, and has the usual Club cha-
racteristic of only one tier of windows above the ground-floor ; the interior has since
l^een redecorated and embellished by CoUman. The Alfred, in 1855, joined the
Ormial, which had been designated by hackney-coachmen as *' the Horizontal Club."
*| Enter it," said the New Monthly Magazine, some thirty years since, "it looks
like an hospital, in which a smell of curry-powder pervades the 'wards' — wards
uQcd with venerable patients, dressed in nankeen shorts, yellow stockings and gaiters,
ttd fadngs to match. There may still be seen pigtails in all their pristine perfection.
I^ ii the region of calico shirts^ returned writers, and gnmea-pigs grown into bores.
Such is the naiobery into which Harley-street, Wimpole-street, and Qloucester-place
^ily empty thdr precious stores of bilious humanity." Time has blunted the point of
^^ satiric picture, the individualities of which had passed away, even before the amal-
gamation of the Oriental with the Alfred.
OxFOBD A.'KV Cahbbidoe CLTTB-nousE, 71, Pall Mall, for members of the two
^oivernties, was designed by Sir Robert Smirke, R.A., and his brother, Sydney
^mirke, 1835-8. The Pall Mall facade is 80 feet in width by 75 in height, and the
^r lies over against the court of Marlborough House. The ornamental detail is very
nch : as the entrance-portico, with Corinthian columns ; the balcony, with its panels
of metal foliage; and the ground-story frieze, and arms of Oxford and Cambridge
Universities over the portico columns. The upper part of the building has a delicate
porinthian entablature and balustrade ; and above the principal windows are bas-reliefs
^ Panels, executed in cement by Nicholl, from desigpis by Sir R. Smirke, R.A.
h ^^ panel : Minerva and Apollo preriding on Mount Famassos ; and the river Helicon, sarronnded
°7 the Moaes. Extreme nanels : Homer sinfdng to a warrior, a female, and a yonth ; Virgil singring his
l^rgict to a group of peasants. Other fbor panels: Milton reciting to his daujrtiter; Shokspeare
^lended by Tragedy and Comedy; Newton explaining his system ; Baooii, his philosophy.
^neath the ground-floor is a basement of of&oes, and an entresol or mezzanine of
chamhers. The prindpal apartments are tastefully decorated : the drawing-room is
254 CUBI08ITIE8 OF LONBOK
panelled with papier-mctchi ; and the libraries are filled with book-cases of beantifnlly-
marked Rusrian birch-wood. From the library rearward is a view of Marlborongh
Honse and its gardens.
PiXL Mall was noted for its tavern Clnbs more than two oentmies since. " The
first lime that Pepys mentions Pell Mell," writ«s Cunningham, " is under the 26th of
July, 1660, where he says, ' We went to Wood's* (our old house for clubbing), ' and
there we spent till ten at night.' This is not oidy one of the earliest references to
Pall Mall as an inhabited locaUty, bnt one of the earliest uses of the word ' clubbing,'
in its modem signification of a Club, and additionally interesting, seeing that the street
still maintains what Johnson would have called its ' clubbable' character. In Spence's
Anecdotes (SupplementoT), we read : ** There was a Club held at the King's Head, in
Pall Mall, that arrogantly called itself ' The World.' Lord Stanhope then (now Lord
Chesterfidd), Lord Herbert, &c., were members. Epigrams were proposed to be
written on the glasses, by each member, after dinner ; once, when Dr. Young was in-
vited thither, the Doctor would have declined writing, because he had no diamond ;
Lord Stanhope lent him his, and he wrote immediately:
" ' Accept a miracle, instead of wit ;
See two duU lines with Stanhope's pencil writ.'."
The first modem Club mansion in Pall Mall was Ko. 86, opened as a subscription
house, called the Albion Hotel. It was originally built for Edward Duke of York,
brother of George III., and is now the office of Ordnance (correspondence).
The south side of Pftll Mall has a truly patridan air in its seven costly Club-houses,
of exceedingly rich architectural character, and reminding one of Captain Morris's
luxurious resource :
*' In town let me live then, hi town let me die ;
For in tmth I can't relish the oonntiy, not I.
If one most have a villa in summer to dwell.
Oh, give me the sweet shady side of Pall MalL"
Pabtexnon Clttb-hoitsb, east side of Regent-street, nearly &dng St. Philip's
Chapel, was designed by Kash : the first fioor is elegant Corinthian. The south divi-
sion was built by Mr. Kash for his own residence ; it luis a long gallery, decorated from
a loggia of the Vatican at Rome : it is now the " Oallery of Illustration." The
P^henon Club, now no longer in existence, was taken by Mr. Poole, for his memorable
paper, ** The Miseries of a Club," in the New Monthly Magazine,
Phcevee Clitb, 17, St. James's-place, consists of the Public Schools' Club, amal-
gamated with the Universities Union, and intended to include gentlemen educated at
the Univeraties and Public Schools, together with Woolwich, Sandhurst^ and Royal
Naval College.
PosTLAiTD Club, 1, Stratford-plaoe, Oxford-street,
Pbikce 07 Wales's Clitb, 48, Albemarle-street.
PBnroE 07 Wales's Yacht Club, Freemasons' Tavern.
RE70BH Cltjb-hoitse, between the Traveller^ and Carlton Club-hooses, has a
frontage in Pall Mall of 185 feet, being nearly equal to that of the Aiheneewn (76 feet)
and Travellen^ (74 feet). The Reform Club was established by Liberal Members of
the two Houses of Parliament, to aid the carrying of the Reform Bill, 1830-32. The
Refijrm was built in 1838-39, from the designs of Barry, R.A. ; and resembles the
Famese Palace at Rome, designed by Michael Angelo Buonarotti, in 1545. The Club-
house contains six fioors and 134 apartments : the basement and mezzanine below the
street pavement, and the chambers in the roof, are not seen.
The points most admired are extreme aimplidty and unity of design, combined with very unnsnal
richness. The breadth of the piers between the windows ooDtrlbutee not a little to that repose whidi
is BO essential to simpUoity, and hardly less so to stateliness. The string-courses are partioularly beau-
tifhl. while the comicione (68 feet fh)m the pavement) gires extraordinary majesty and grandeur to the
whole. The roof is covered with ItaliSn tiles ; the edifice is faced thronghoin with Portland stone, and
Is a very fine specimen of masonry.
In the centre of the interior is a grand hall, 56 feet by 50, resembling an Italian eortil^,
surrounded by colonnades, below lonic^ and above Corinthian ; the latter is a picture-
gallery, where, inserted in the scagliola walls, are whole-length portraits of eminent
CLUBS AND CLUB-HOUSES. 255^
political ReformerB. The floor of the hall is teaselated ; and the entire roof is strong
diapered flint glass, by Pellatt & Co. The staircase, like that of an Italian palace,
leads to the upper gallery cf the hall, opening into the principal drawing>room, which
is orer the coffee-room in the garden front, both being the entire length of the build-
ing; adjoining are a library, card-room, &c., over the library and dining-rooms.
Abore are a billiard-room and lodging-rooms for members of the Club ; there being a
separate entrance to the latter by a lodge adjoining the Travellers' Club.
The basement comprises two-storied wine-cellars beneath the hall, besides the Kitchen Department^
ma^oooit banquet given by the Club to Ibraham Pasn% July 3, 1846. Another omons bancmet was
that given Joly 20, iSsO. to iHscoont Palmerston, who was a popular leader of the Beform. This fbs-
tnal was, gastranomlcslly as wdU as politically, a brilliant triumph.
Beforx Cltjb, JnaoB ; Club-honse to be erected in Jermyn-street,
BoBnr Hood, the, was a Debating Society, which met, in the reign of George IT.,
it a house in Esex-street, Strand, at which questions were proposed for discussion, and
ttiy member might speak seven minutes; after which, " the baker," who presided witb
a hammer, summed up the arguments. Arthur Mainwaring and Dr. Hugh Chamber*
kin were early members ; and the Club was visited by M. Beaumont, as a curioraty, in
1761. This was the scene of Burke's earliest eloquence. Gk)ld8mith came here, and
wu struck by the imposing aspect of the Fre^dent, who sat in a large gilt chair.
Rota, the, or Cotfes Club, as Pepys calls it, was founded in 1659, as a kind of
Debating Sodety for the dissemination of republican opinbns, which Harring^n had
painted in their fiurest colours in his Oeeana. It met in New Palace Yard, at the then
Turk's Head, *' where they take water, the next house to the staires, at one MOes's, where
vasmade purposely a large ovall-table, with a passagein the middle for Miles to deliver his
coffee." Here Harrington gave nightly lectures on the advantage of a commonwealth
>nd of the ballot. The Club derived its name from a plan, which it was its design to
promote, for changing a certain number of Members of Parliament annually by rotO'
^ Sir William Petty was one of its members. Hound the table, " in a room every
evening as fuU as it could bo crammed," says Aubrey, sat Milton and Marvell, Cyriac
Skinner, Harrington, Nevill, and their friends, discussing abstract political questions.
Aubrey calls them " disciples and tfiriuon" The Club was broken up at the Restoration.
Dr. Nash notes : " Mr. James Harrington, sometime in the service of Charles I.,
drew up and printed a form of popular government, after the King's death, entitled
the Conunonwealth of Oceana. He endeavoured likewise to promote his scheme by
Public diaoonrses^ at a nightly Club of several curious g^tlemen, Henry Nevil, Charles^
Wolseley, John Wildman, Dr. (afterwards Sir William) Petty, who met in New
^^^lace-yard, Westminster. Mr. Henry Nevil proposed to the House of Commons that
& third part of its members should rote out by ballot every year, and be incapable of re-
election for three years to come. This Club was called the Rota."
RoxBUBGHB Club, the, was founded by the Rev. T. Frognall (afterwards Dr.)
I>ibdm, at the St. Albans Tavern, St. James's, on June 17, 1812, immediately after the
nle of the rarest lot in the Roxburghe Library, viz., II Decamerone di Boccaccio^ which
produced 22602. The members were limited to 24, subsequently extended to 31.
"The President of this Clnb was tiie second Earl Spencer. Among the most celebrated members were
t&e Doke of Devonshire, the Marqais of Blandford (the late Dake of Harlboroogh), Lord Altborp (late
^w Spencer), Lord Morpeth (afterwards Earl of Carlisle), Lord Gower (afterwards Earl of Carlisfe), Sir
Jsairtcnnaa SykesL Sir Egerton Brydges, Mr. (afterwards Baron) Bolland, Mr. Dent, Mr. Townlej, Bev. T.
^> Heber, Rer. Bob. Holwell C^arr, Sir Walter Scott, &c. : Dr. Dibdln being Secretary. The avowed ol^eot
or the Club was the reprinting of rare and neglected pieces of ancient literature; and, at one of the
*^ly meetings, " it was proposed and condnded for each member of the Club to reprint a acaroe piece
oi aodent lore, to be given to the members, one copy being on vellum for the chairman, and only as many
^les SI memDCTS." It may, however, be questioned whether the " dinners " of the Clnb were not more
Important than the literatore. They were given at the St Albans', at OriUion's, at the Clarendon, and
^Qc Mbion Taverns. Of these entertainments some curious details have been recorded by Mr. Joseph
^'ewood, one of the members, in a MS., entitled " Boxbur^ BntUj or, an Aeotnmt qfthe Annual
t^tov, fulinarjf and festitotu, inie¥tper$«d with MaUen ofMomtni or Merriment :" a selection from
'» rsritiei has appeared in the Atkenwwm : at the second dinner, Mr. Heber In the chair, a few tarried
mil, *• on trriylng at home, the click of time bespoke a quarter to four." Among the early members
^ the Rer. Mr. Dodd, one of the masters of Westminster School, who, until 1818 (when he died),
aulTcned the Club with Bobln Hood ditties. At the fourth dinner, at GriUiou's, Sir Mastexman Sykes
256 CURIOSITIES OF LONDON,
chAlrman, 20 members present, the bill was 571. At the Annivemr/, 1818, at the Albion, Mr. Heber in
the chair, 16 present, the bill was 851. 0«. 6<1, or 61. 14«. each ; indading turtle, 121. 10«. ; venison, 10/. 10«. ;
and wine. doL 17«. " Ancients, believe it." says Haslewood, ** we were not dead drank, and therefore lie
quiet under the table for once, and let a few modems be uppermost."
Tlie Roxbarghe Clab still exists : it may justly be considered to have suggested the
pablishing Sodeties of the preseut day ; as the Camden, Shakspeare, Percy, &c.
Rot All Society Clttb, the, was founded in 1743, and was at first styled " the Club
of Boyal Philosophers." It originated some years earlier with Dr. Halley and a few
friends, who dined together once a week ; at length, they removed to the Mitre Tavern*
No. 39, Fleet-street, to be handy to the Boyol Society, which then met in Crane*
court. In 1780, the Club removed to the Crown and Anchor Tavern, in the Strand ;
in 1848, to the Freemasons' Tavern : and thence, when the Royal Society removed to
Burlington House, Piccadilly, the Club removed to the Thatched House Tavern, St.
James's-street. The dinners were plain, black-puddings figuring for many years at
each repast. The presents made to the Club became very numerous; and hannehes of
▼enison, turtle, and gpime, were rewarded by the donors' healths being drunk in claret.
The circumnavigator. Lord Anson, presented the Club with a magnificent turtle ; and
on another occasion >vith a turtle which weighed 4001bs. James Watt dined at one of
these turtle-feasts ; ** and never was tm'tle eaten with greater sobriety and tempe-
rance, or with more good fellowship." Then we find mighty chines of beef, and large
carp among the presents ; and Lord Macartney sent " two pigs of the China breed."
Fruits were presented for dessert; and Philip Miller, who wrote the Oardener's IHc-
Honary, sent Egyptian Cos lettuces, the best kind known ; and Cantaloupe melons, equal
in flavour to pine-apples. For thirty years the Club received these presents in lien of
admission-money, until thinking it undignified to do so, the practice was discontinued.
The charge for dinner rose from Is. 6d. to lOf ., and 2d. to the waiter ! Then, the
Clnb laid in its own wine, at Is. 6d. per bottle, and the landlord charged 2s, 6d. The
oonsamption of wine, per head, of late, averaged less than a pint each.
"Among the distinguished guests of the Clnb are many celebrities. Here the ohivalrons Sir Sidney
Smith described the atrocities of DJezza Pasha; and here that cheerfhl baronet— Admiral Sir Isaac Coflin
— by relating the result of his going in a jolW-boat to attack a whale, and in narrating Uie advantages
specified in his proposed patent for rattening fowls, kept " the table in a roar." At this board, also, our
famous circamnavigators and oriental voyagers met with countenance and fellowship— asCook, Funieaux,
Gierke, King, Bountv Bligh, Vancouver, Guardian Riou, Flinders, Brousrhton, Lestock, WUson, Hnddart,
Sass, Tuckey, Horsburgh, Ac. ; while the Polar explorers, firom the Hon. Constantine Phlpps in 1773,
down to Sir Leopold M'Clintock, in 1880, were severally and individually welcomed as guests. Itut,
besides our sterling sea-worthies, we find in ranging through the documents that some rather ouUandi&h
visitors were introduced through their means, as Chet Quang and Wanga Tong, Chinu9 ; E^ntak and
Tnklivina, Etquimaux ; Thayen-danega, the Mohawk chief; while Omai, of Ularetea, the celebrated and
popular savage, of Cook't Vo^age$, was so frequently invited, that he is latterly entered on the Club
papers simply as Mr. Omai.''--Admiral Smyth's AficotirU qf the Bogal Soetetg Club ; dub JAft of
X/Mdonif VOL C pp. 85-81. 1888.
BoTAii Thahes Yacht Club, 49, St. James's-street
ScBiBLEBUS Clfb, the, was founded by Swift, in 1714, in place of ** the Brothers ;"
it was rather of a literary than political character. Oxford and St. John, Sw^ift,
Arbuthnot» Pope, and Gay» were members. Oxford and Bolingbroke led the way, by
their mutual animosity, to the dissolution of the Club ; when Swift made a final effort
at reconciliation, but failing, retreated in dudgeon. — See Bbothebs Clttb, p. 244.
Smithfield Clttb, the. Half-moon-street, has the management of the Cattle Show
held annually at the Agricultural Hall, Islington, and the award of Silver Cups and
Gold and Silver Medals as prizes for Stock, Implements, &c., exhibited.
"The Smithfield Cattle and Sheep Soeiety" wasinstitated DecemberlT, 1798, by a party of noble-
men and gentlemen, amongst whom were most conspicuous Francis, Doke of Becuord; the Earl of
WinchelseiL Lord Somerville, and Sir Joseph Banks.
The Club has shifted its scene of annual display several times. In 1709 and 1800, the Club exhibited
in Wootton's Livery-stables. Dolphin-yard, Smithfield; in 1804, the Show was held in the Swan-rard -
In 1806, at Dixon's Repository, Baibican; in 1808, in Sadler's-yard, Goswell-street; and in 1839 the
Club, moving westward, gave its first exhibition in Baker-street. From Mr. Brandreth Gibbs's Hutorv
qf the Origin and Progreu qf the SmiHifield Club, we learn that, at the first exhibition, the Club onlV
received fhnn the pablic 401. Ss. The receipts of the first Baker-street Show were 300{. : and in 1S57
no less a snm than 7002. was taken at the doors. The prizes annually distributed have increased as
follows : value in 1799, 60 guineas; 1800, 120 guineas; 1810, 220 guineas ; and in 1840, plate and monev
in 1857. 10502. Concurrent with the early career of the Sm'ithfield anb' were the Sprint
Cattle Shows, established by Lord Somerville, who, In 1806, at his own cost, gave six mixes : mkonst&t
the exhibitors was George the Third. i« a » «»•
GLTJB8 AND CLUB-H0U8E8. 257
The Dnehen of Rathnd became a member of the Smitbfleld Clab in 1823; and the Qaeen visited
the Show in BBker-street in 1844, and again in 1850. The Royal viait in 1844 is believed to be the first
oocaaon of an agricnltand show being attended by the Sovereign of Great Britain ; bnt it was not th«
fint time that Boyaity took an interest in the CInb shows. George the Third was an exhibitor in 1800;
the Dnice of Tork gained a prize in 1806 : and the Prince Consort^ who, together with the late Duke of
Cambridge, became a memher of the Clnb in 1841, carried off several prizes at the Baker-street ezhibi-
tiens with animals fed at the ** Boyal Flemish" and " Boyal Shaw " farms. The silver-cap and the
ihepherd-smoek sdiools combined for the same good end — ^the production of delicious meat at moderate
prices ; and he will not act inappropriately who, whilst thanking God for his Christmas-dinner, has a
giateftil reodUection of the men who contributed to bring the Boast Beef of Old England to its present
VaUxaaiL^Atheiueum, No. 1728, abridged.
Thatched House.— Admiral Smyth, in 1860, gave the following list of Clubs,
which then ^ned at the Thatched House Tavern, St. James's-street : —
Actuaries, Institute of: Catch Club; Johnson's Club; Dilettanti Society: Fanners' Club; Geo-
graphical Club; Geological Clnb; Linnteau Club j Literary Society; Navy Ctuo; Philosophical Club;
Phjiifians, College of. Club ; Political Economy Club; Boyal Academy Club; Boyal Astronomical Club;
SoTsl Institution Clnb ; Royal London Tacht Club ; Boyal Naval Club (1705) ; Boyal Society Club; St.
Alban'sJfedicalClab; St Bartholomew's Contemporaries; Star Club; Statistical Club; Sussex Qub;
Union Society, St JBxneB'n.—Aeeount of th« Boyal Society Chtb, privately printed.
Tom's Coefeb-house Clue, tbe, was held at 17, north side of Bnssell-street,
Corent-garden ; the house was taken down in 1865. The original proprietor was
Thomas West, who died in 1722. The upper portion of the premises was the coffee-
boose, nnder which lived T. Lewis, the original publisher, in 1711, of Pope's Etsay on
Criiicum, In The Journey through England^ 1714, we read, " There was at Tom's
Coffee-house playing at piquet, and the beet conversation till midnight ; blue and green
ribbons with stars, sitting and talking familiarly." M. Grignon, sen., had seen " the
btlconv of Tom's crowded with noblemen in their stars and garters, drinking their tea
and coffee^. exposed to the people." In 1764 was formed here, by a guinea subscrip-
tion, a aub of nearly 700 members.
On the Club-books we find "Long Sir Thomas Bobinson ;" Samuel Foote; Arthur Murphv. lately
wi«d to the Bar; David Garrick, who then lived in Southampton-street (thoueh he was not a clubbable
^} ; John Beard, the fine tenor singer ; John Webb ; Sir Bichard Glynne ; Bobert Gosling, tbe banker j
gumel Eyre, of Marylebone; Earl Percr; Sir John Fielding, the Justice; Paul Methuen, of Corsham;
HcbardCUve; the great Lord Clive; the eccentric l>uke of Montagu; Sir Fletcher Norton, the ill-
■Buneted ; Lord Eklward Bentinek ; Ut. Samuel Johnson ; the celebrated Marquis of Granby ; Sir F. B.
^aval, the friend of Foote; William Tooke, the solicitor : the Hon. Charles Howard, sen. ; the Duke of
Aortkamberland: Sir Francis Gosling; the Earl of Anglesey; Sir George Brydges Bodney (afterwards
^f^ Bodn^); Peter Burrell; Walpole Evre; Lewis Mendez; Dr. Swinn^; Stephen Lushington;
JohnGunninjr; Henry Brougham, father of Lord Brougham; Dr. Macnamara; Sir John Trevelyant
{^>ptahi DoneUaa ; SlrW. Wolseley; Walter Chetwynd ; Viscount Gage, Ac. ; Thomas Payne, Esq., of
UKciter House; Dr. Schomberg, of Pall Mall; George Colman, the dramatist, then living In Great
Quea-itreet; Dr. Dodd, in Southampton-row; James Payne, the architect, Salisbury-street, which he
retailt; WiUiam Bowyer, the printer, Bloomsbury-souare ; Count Bruhl,the Polish Minister; Dr. Gold-
imith, Temple (1773), &c. Many a noted name in the list of 700 is very suggestive of the gay society
of the period. Among the Cluo musters, Samuel Foote, Sir Thomas Bobinson, and Dr. Dodd are very
''^'laent : indeed. Sir Thomas seems to have been something like a propoeer-generaL
I^ce punted the elder Haines, the landlord, who^ for his polite address, was called
uDong the Clnb "Lord Chesterfield." The coffee-house business closed in 1814^
when the premises became occupied by Mr. William Till, the well-known numismatist;
tbe card-room and club-tables in their ori^nal condition. On the death of Mr. Till,
^f' Webster succeeded to the tenancy and collection of coins and medals, which he re-
moved to No. 6, Henrietta-street ; he possesses, by marriage with the grand-daughter
^ the second Mr. Haines, the Club-books ; as well as the Club-room snuff-box, of large
^e, tortoiseshell ; upon the lid, in high relief, in silver, are the portraits of Charles I.
^nd Queen Anne, the Boscobel oak, with Charles II. amid its branches, &c — See
ilfvHrated London News, 1865.
TfiATELLSBB' Clxtb-hotjse, adjoining the Athenaum, in Pall Mall, was designed by
^^"7* ILA., and built in 1832. The architecture is the nobler Italian, resembling a
Koman palace : the plan is a quadrangle, with an 0|)en area in the middle, so that all
tbe rooms are well lighted. The Pall Mall front has a bold and rich cornice, and the
windows are decorated with Corinthian pilasters; tbe garden- front varies in the
windows; bnt the Italian taste is preserved throughout, with the most careful finish :
^eroof ia Italian tiles. The Travellers' Club originated shortly after the Peace of
1^1 4^ in a suggestion of the late Marquis of Londonderry, then Lord Castlereagh, with
* Tiew to a resort for gentlemen who had resided or travelled abroad ; as well as to the
8
258 CUBIOSiriES OF LONDON
acoommodation of foreigners, who^ when properly recommended, receive an inYitation
for the period of their stay. ((Quarterly Meview, No. 110, 1836.) By one of the rales,
'*no person is eligible to the Travellers' Clnb who shall not have travelled out of the
British Islands to a distance of at least 600 miles from London in a direct line."
Prince Talleyrand, dnring his residence in London, generally joined the muster of
whist^players at this Club.
Tbsabok Club, the, at the time of the Revolution, met at the Rose Tavern, Covent-
garden, to consult with Lord Colchester, Mr. Thomas Wharton, and many others;
and it was then resolved that the regiment under Lieutenant-Colonel Langdale*s
command should desert entire, as it did, on a Sunday, November, 1688.
ITktok Club-house, Cockspur-street, and west side of Trafalgar-square, was com-
pleted in 1824, from designs by Sir R. Smirke, R.A. James Smith ("Rejected Ad-
dresses") has left us a sketch of his every-day life at this Club : —
" At three o'clock I walk to the Union Club, read the jonmals, hear Lord John Bueeell deified or
diablerised, do the Bsme with Sir Robert Peel or the Ihike of Wellington, and ttien Join a knot of con-
versationif ts by the fire till six o'clock, oonsiBtiDg of lawyers, merchttits, and gentlemen at luge. We
then and there discnss the Three per Cent. Consols (some of us prefto-ring Dutch two-and-arhalf per
Cents.), and specnlate npon the probable rise, shape, and (X)st of the New Exchange. If Lady Harrin {*toa
happen to drive past our window in her Isndau, we compare her equipage to the Algerine Ambassador's ;
and when politics happen to be disoussed, rally Whigs, Kadicals, and Conservatives alternately, but never
seriously, such subjects having a tendency to create acrimony. At six. the room begins to be deserted ;
wherefore I adjourn to the dining-room, and gravel v looking over the bill of hxe, exclaim to the waiter,
'Haunch of mutton and apple-tart!' These viands despatched, with the accompanying liquids and
water, I mount upward to the library, take a book and my seat in the arm-chair, and read till nine. Then
call for a cup of coflf^ and a biscuit^ resuming my book Ull eleven; afterwards return home to bed."-^
Comic MiMeeUtuUei.
The Union has a capital smoking-room, with paintings by Stanfield and Roberts.
The Club has ever been famed for ifcs cuisine, upon the strength of which we I are
told that next door to the Club-house, in Cockspur-street, was established the Union
Hotel, which speedily became renowned for its turtle ; it was opened in 1828, and was
one of the best-appointed hotels of its day ; Lord Panmure, a gourmet of the highest
order, is said to have taken up his quarters in this hotel, for several successive seasons,
fiir the sake of the soup.* — Adams's London Clubs.
UiaTED Seryicb Club, the, one of the oldest of modern Clubs, was instituted
the year after the Peace of 1815, when a few officers of influence in both branches of
the Service had built for them, by Sir R. Smirke, a Club-house at the comer of Charles-
street and Regent-street — a frigid design, somewhat relieved by sculpture on the
entrance-front, of Britannia distributing laurels to her brave sons by land and sea.
Thence the Club removed to a more spacious house, in Waterloo-place, facing the
Athenssum, the Club-house in Charles-street being entered on by the Junior United
Service Club ; but Smirke's cold design has been displaced by an edifice of much more
ornate exterior and luxurious internal appliances. The Uilited Service Club (Senior)
was designed by Nash, and has a well-planned interior, exhibiting the architect's well-
known excellence in this branch of his profession. The principal front findng Pall Mall
has a Roman-Doric portico ; and above it a Corinthian portico, with pediment. One of
the patriarchal members of the Clnb was Lord Lynedoch, the hero of the Peninsular
War, who lived under five sovereigpos : he died in his 9drd year. Stanfield's fine pic-
ture of the Battle of Trafalgar ; and a copy by Lane (painted 1851) of a contemporary
portrait of Sir Francis Drake ; are amoug the Club pictures.
The Windham was once considered the most expensive Club, and the United Service the cheapest;
the latter, probably, (h)m the number of absent members. The Duke of Wellington might often be seen
dming at tnis Club on a joint ; " and on one occasion, when he was charged IBd, instead of 1«. for it, he
bestirred himself till the odd threepence was struck off. The motive was obvious ; he took the trouble
of obijecting to give his sanction to the principle."— Quarferfy Review, No. 110, 1836.
United Sbbtice Club, the Jttniob, at the comer of Charles-street and Regent-
street, was erected upon the site of the former Club-house, by Sir R. Smirke, R.A.,
in 1855-57, Nelson and James, architects, and is enriched with characteristic sculpture
by John Thomas. The design is in the Italian style of architecture, the bay-window
* The West-end Clubs contribute largely to the feeding of the poor. The Union Gnb distributed in
the year 18H to the poor of St Martin's-in-the-Fields, no less than 3101 lbs. of broken bread, 4566 lbs.
of broken meat, 1147 pints of tea-leaves, and 1168 pints of coiAie-grounds.
CLUBS AND CLUB'HOUSES. 259
in Begeot-street forming a prominent featnre in the composition, above which is a
acolptored gronp allegorical of the Army and Navy. The whole ot the scalpture and
ornamental detidla tbSronghoat the boilcUng are characteristic of the professions of the
members of the Club. Upon the angle-pieces of the balnstrade are bronze lamps^ snp«
ported by figores. The staircase is lighted from the top by a handsome lantern, filled
with painted glass. On the landing of the half-space are two purs of caryatidal
fignro^ and nngle figores agidnst the walls, sapporting three semicircnlar arches. On
the upper landing of the staircase is the celebrated picture, by Allan, of the Battle of
Waterloo. The evening-room, which is also used as a picture-gallery, 24 feet high,
bas a bay-window fronting B^ent-street. Here are portraits of military and naval
eommanders ; Qoeen Victoria and Prince Albert ; the Emperor Napoleon, and an
•Uegorical gronp in silver, presented to the Club by his Imperial Majesty.
Univebsity Ci^itb, the, Suffolk-street, Pall Mall East, was instituted in 1824; and
the Clab-honse, dangned by Deering and Wilkins, architects, was opened 1826. It is
of the Gredan Doric and Ionic orders; and the staircase walls have casts from the
^uthenon frieze. The Clnb consists chiefly of Members of Parliament who have re-
ceived Univernty education ; several of the judges, and a large number of beneficed
dergymen. This Club has the reputation of possessing the best-stocked wine-cellar
ID London, which is of no small importance to members^ clerical or lay.
UiviBsrnBB Uinoy Olttb-houbb, the, is at 20, Cockspur-street, Charing Cross i
od its sphere is intended to embrace all gentlemen whose names have been on the
tnoks of any college at Oxford or Cambridge, or Durham, or on those of the Scotch
Universities, or of Trinity College, Dublin.
Ubbax Clttb, the, held at St. John's Gate, Clerkenwel], consists of authors, actors^
aod artists, who meet m the great room of the Tavern over the gateway.
VoLuiriEEB Sebyicb Club, 49, St. James's-street.
W^ibb's Cxxtb was the great Macao gambling-house of a very short period. Mr.
Tliomas Baikes^ who understood all its mysteries, describes it as very genteel, adding
that no one ever quarrelled there. '* The Club did not endure for twelve years altogether ;
ihe pace was too quick to last : it died a natural death in 1819, from the paralysed
1^ of its members ; the house was then taken by a set of blacklegs, who instituted a
common bank for gambling. To form an idea of the ruin produced by this short-lived
otaUiahment among men whom I have so intimately known, a cursory glancie to the
P*^ BQggests the following melancholy list, which only forms a part of its deplorable
'emits. .... None of the dead reached the average age of man."
In the old day% when gaming was in fiishion, at Watier's Club, princes and nobles
lost or gamed fortunes between themselves. Captain Gronow also relates the following
scooont of the origin of this noted but short-lived Club : —
"Upon one ooeaalon, aome Rentlemen of both White's and Brooks's bad the honour 4o dine with
tiie Pnnce Begent, and daring the oonveraatlcm the Prince inqnired what sort of dinners they got at
their Gnbs; upon which Sir Thomas Stepney, one of the ffurats, observed 'that their dinners were
^vajFi the same, the eternal Joints or beef-steaks, the boiled fowl with oyster^sanoe, and an apple-tart:
thli u what we baTe at onr Clnbs, and very monotonous fare it is.' The Prince, without farther
'noarlE, rang the bell for his oook Watier, and, in the presence of those who dined at the Boyal tabliL
ttked Urn whether he would take a house, and organize a dlnner«lub. Watter assented, and named
lf^son,the Prince's page, manager: and Labourie, the cook, from the Soyal kitchen. The Gab
^loariihed only a few years, owing to the night-phiy that was carried on there. The Duke of York
I^traoized it and was a member. The dinners were exonisite : the best Farisiaa cooks could not beat
l^boorie. The fhvoarite game played there was Macao.''
WsDKiaDAT Clitb, in Friday-street, Cheapside. Here, in 1695, certain conferences
took place under the direction of William Paterson, which ultimately led to the esta-
bliahment of the Bank of England. Such is the general belief; but lix. Saxe Bannister,
in bis lAfe of JPatenoA, p. 93, observes : — "It has been a matter of much doubt
whether the Bank of England was originally proposed from a Club or Society in the
^ty of London. The Dialogue Conferenc€9ofthe Wedme^dajf CM, in Frida^'tireetg
^ve been quoted as if first published in 1696. No such publication has been met
^th of a date before 1706 ;" and Mr. Bannister states his reasons for supposing it waa
^ preceded by any other book. Still, Pftterson wrote the papers entitled the Wedne9d<i^
^^ CofifermeM.
02
260 CUBIOSITIES OF LONDON,
There was likewise a Wednetday Club held at the Glohe Tavern, in I'loet-street,
where songs, jokes, dramatic imitations, hnrlesqne parodies, and hroad sallies of humour
were the entertainments ; and Oliver Goldsmith was in his glory. Here was first heard
the celehrated epitaph (Goldsmith had heen reading Pope and SwifVs MisceUanies) on
Edward Purdon : —
" Here lies poor Ned Pnrdon, firom misery freed.
Who long was a bookseller's hack :
He had led such a damnable life in tnis world,
I don't think he'll wish to come back."
WESTKiySTEB Club, 23, Albemarle-street.
Whist Clubs originated with whist hecoming popular in England about 1730,
when it was closely studied by a party of gentlemen, who formed a sort of Club at the
Crown O^ffee-honse, in Bedford-row. Hoyle is said to have given instructions in the
game, for which his charge was a guinea a lesson. A Committee, including members
of several of the best London Clubs, well known as whist-players, has drawn up a code
of rules for the game ; and these rules, as governing the best modem practice, Imve
been accepted by the Arlington, the Army and Navy, Arthur's, Boodle's, Brooks's,
Carlton, Conservative, Garrick, Guards', Junior Carlton, Portland, Oxford and Cam-
bridge, Reform, St. James's, White's, &c. The Laws of Short Whist were, in 1865,
published in a small volume ; and to this strictly legal portion of the book is appended
A Treatise on the Game, by Mr. J. Clay, M.P. for Hull, one of the best modem
whist-players.
White's (Tory) Club-house, 36 and 37, St. James's-street, has an elegant front,
designed by James Wyatt, restored and enriched in 1851 : the medallions of the Four
Seasons above the drawing-room story are classic compositions. The Club, as White's
Chocolate-house, was originally established about 1698, near the bottom of the west
side of St James's-street : the Club-house, then kept by Mr. Arthur, was burnt down
April 28, 1773 ; and plate 6 of Hogarth's " Rake's Progress " shows a room at White's
so intent upon their play, as neither to see the flames nor hear the watchmen, who are
bursting into the room to give the alarm. Sir Andrew Fountayne's collection of
pictures, valued at 3000/., was destroyed in the fire ; and the King and the Prince of
Wales were present, encouraging the firemen and people to work the engines. In 1736,
the principal members of the Club were the Duke of Devonshire, Lord Chesterfield, Sir
John Cope, Bubb Doddington, and Colley Cibber : before this date it ^ was an open
Chocolate-house. It soon became a gaming Club and a noted supper-house, the dinner-
hour being early a century since. Betting wns another of its pastimes ; and a book
for entering wagers was always laid upon the table. The play here was frightful ; it
was for White's that Walpole and his friends composed the famous heraldic satire.
Walpole writes to Sir Horace Mann, Sept. 1, 1750 : *' Ther have put into the papers a good story
made at White's. A man dropped down dead at the door, and was carried in ; the Club immediately
made bets whether he was decul or not ; and when they were going to bleed him, the wa^erers for his
death interposed, and «aid it would affect the &imes8 of the bet."
" At the time that White's Chocolate-house was opened at the bottom of St. James's-street— the close
of the last century — it was probably thought vulgar ; for there was a garden attached, and it had a
suburban air. At the tables in the house or garden more than one highwayman took his chocolate, or
threw his main, before he quietly mounted his horse, and rode slowly down Piccadilly towards Bag-shot.
The celebrated Lord Chesterfield there ' gamed, and pronounced witticisms among the boys of quality.'
Steele dated all his love news in the TalUr from White's. It was stigmatized as * the common rendezvous
of infamous sharpers and noble cullies ;' and bets were laid to the effect that Sir William Burdett^ one
of its members, would be the first baronet who would be hanged. The gambling went on till dawn of day ;
and Pelham, when Prime Mtaister, was not ashamed to divide his time between his official table and the
piquet table at White's. White's ceased to be an openChocoktte-house in 1736."— Dr. Doran's TabU Trmis.
The Club, on June 20, 1814, gave at Burlington-house, to the Allied Sovereigns
then in England, a ball, which cost 9489/. 2s, 6d, ; and on July 6 following, the Club
gave a dinner to the Duke of Wellington, which cost 24802. 10s. 9d, — (See Cunning-
ham's Handbook (" Wliite's ") for several very interesting extracts from the Club-books,
and from writers of the middle of the last century, " curiously characteristic of the
state of society at the time."
W^HiTTiNGTON Club and Metbofolitan Ath£N£UM, Arundel-street, originated
in 1846 with Mr. Douglas Jerrold, who became its first president. It combines a
literary society with a Club-house, upon an economical scale, for the middle classes ; oon*
COFFEE-HOUSES. 261
tAinin^ dininf: and coffee-rooms, library and reading-rooms, smoking and chess-rooms ;
tnd a ]arge room for balls, concerts, and toiriet. Lectures are given here, and classes
held for the higher branches of education, fencing and dancing, &c. In the ball-room
is a picture of Whittington listening to Bow-bells, painted by F. Newenham, and pre-
sented to the Club by its founder. All the original Crown and Anchor premises,
wherein the Clab first met, were destroyed by fire in 1854 : they have been rebuilt,
and the establishment is now styled the Whittington Club.
WnrDHAK Club, 11, St. James's-squaro, was founded by the late Lord Nugent, for
gentlemen " connected with each other by a common bond of literary or personal
acquaintance." The mansion was the residence of William Windham ; next, of the
accomplished John Duke of Roxburghe; and here the Roxburghe Library was sold
in 1812, the sale commencing May 18, and extending to forty-one days. Lord Chief-
Ja^tlce EUenborough lived here in 1814 ; and subsequently, the Earl of Blessington,
who possessed a fine collection of pictures.
COFFEE-EOUSES.
COFFEE was first drunk in London abdtit the middle of the seventeenth century.
** The first coffee-house in London," says Aubrey (MS. in the Bodleian Library),
was in St. MichaeVs-alley, in Comhill, opposite to the church, which was set up by
one Bowman (coachman to Mr. Hodges, a Turkey merchant, who putt him upon
it), in or about the year 1652. 'Twas about four yearcs before any other was sett up,
and that was by Mr. Farr. Jonathan Paynter, over-against to St. Michael's Church,
was the first apprentice to the trade, viz., to Bowman."
Another account states that one Edwards, a Turkey merchant, on his return from
the E&ft in 1657, brought with him a Ragusan Greek servant, Pasqua Rosee, who
prepared coffee every morning for his master, and with the coachman above named set
up the first coffee-honse in St. Michael's-alley ; but they soon quarrelled and separated,
the coachman establishing himself in St. Michaers churchyard.
Sir Hsns Sloane had in his Mtueum in Bloomsbary-square, "port of a coffee-tree, with the berrias
<i
and leaTw thereon : it waa brought over from Moco, in Arabia, by Mr. £. Clive, of London, merchaat,"
vho haa described it in Fkiloa, Trans. No. 208.
Coffee is first mentioned in our statute-book anno 16B0 (12 Car. XL, c. 24), when a
duty of 4d. was laid upon every gallon of coffee made and sold. A statute of 1663
directs that all coffee-houses should be licensed at the Quarter Sessions. In 1675,
Charles II. issued a proclamation to shut up the coffee-houses, charged with being
semiDaries of section ; but in a few days he suspended this proclamation by a second.
As coffee declined in fashion, the Coffee-houses mostly became Taverns and Dining-
houses, or Chop-houses. The first on our list is an instance.
Bakeb's Coffee-house, 1, Change-alley, Lombard-street, was originally for the
ale of coffco, but has been for nearly halt' a century noted for its chops and steaks^
l>n)iled in the coffee-room, and eaten hot from the gridiron.
Baltic Coffee-house, 58, Threadneedle-strcet, is the rendezvous of merchants and
brokers connected with the Russian trade, or tliat in tallow, oil, hemp, and seeds.
The supply of news to the subscription -room is, with the exception of the chief London,
Liverpool, and Hull papers, confined to that from the north of Europe and the tallow-
producing coutitries on ilie South American coast. In the upper part of the Baltic
Coffec'house is the auction sale-room for tallow, oils, &c.
BsDVosD Coffee-house, " under the mazza, in Covent Garden," north-enst comer,
in Memoiriofthe Bedford Coffee-house, two editions, 1751-1763, is described as having
been *' signalized for many years as the emporium of wit, the seat of criticism, and the
standard of taste. Names of those who frequented the house : — Foote, Mr. Fielding,
Hr. Woodward, who mostly lived here, Mr. Leone, Mr. Murphy, Mopsy, Dr. Ame.
Br. Ame was the only man in a suit of velvet in the dog-days. Stacie kept the Bed-
ford when John and Henry Fielding, Hogarth, ChnrchiU, Woodward, Lloyd, Dr.
Goldsmith, and many others met there and held a gossiping shilling- rubber dub.
Henry Fielding was a very merry fellow." In the Connoitaeur, No. 2, we read :
262 CUBI08ITIE8 OF LONDON.
"This Coffee-house is every night crowded with men of parts. Almost ereiy one yoo
meet is a polite scholar and a wit. Jokes and hon-mots are echoed irom box to box :
every branch of literature is critically examined, and the merit of every production of
the press, or performance of the theatres, weighed and determined." Foote and
Garrick often met here. Oarrick, in early life, had been in the wine-trade, and had
supplied the Bedford with wine ; he was thus described by Foote as living in Durham-
yard, with three quarts of vinegar in the cellar, calliug himself a wine-merchant.
Churchiirs quarrel with Hogarth began at the shilling-rubber dub, in the Bedford
park>ur : " Never," says Walpole, " did two ang^y men of their abilities throw mud
with less dexterity." Young Collins, the poet, who came to tovm in 1744 to seek his
fortune, made his way to the Bedford, where Foote was supreme among the wits and
critics. Like Foote, CoUins was fond of fine dothes, and walked about with a feather
in his hat, very unlike a young man who had not a single g^iinea he oould call his own.
A letter of the time tells us that " Collins was an acceptable companion everywhere ;
and among the gentlemen who loved him for a genius may be reckoned the Doctors
Armstrong, Barrowby, Hill, Messrs. Quin, Garrick, and Foote, who frequently took
his opinion upon thdr pieces before they were seen by the public. He was particularly
noticed by the geniuses who frequented the Bedford and Slaughter's Cofl'ee-hooaes."
{Memoir, by Moy Thomas.) In 1754, Foote was supreme in his critical comer at the
Bedford. The regular frequenters of the room strove to get admitted to his party at
supper ; and others got as nearly as they could to the table, as the only humour fl.owed
firom Foote's tongue. The Bedford was now in its highest repute : Dr. Barrowby was
the great newsmonger of the day.
Of two houses in the Piazza, bnUt for Francis, Earl of Bedford, we obtain some minnte InformatioD
from the lease granted in 1634 to Sir Edmund Yemej, Knight Marshal to King Charles I. ; these two
houses being jost then erected as part of the Piazza. There are also included hi the lease the ** yards*
stables, coachhouses, and gardens now lajd, or hereafter to be layd, to the said messuages,** which
description of the premises seems to identify them as the two houses at the southern endof the Piazza, ad-
Joining to Great Russell-street, and now occupied as the Bedford Coffee-house and Hotel. TheT are either
the same premises, or they immediately adjoin the premises, occupied a century later as tne Bedford
Coffee-house. (Mr. John Bruce, Archadlogia, xxxt. 196.) The lease contsined a minnte spedficatioa
of the landlord's fittings and customary accommodations of what were then some of the most faahioiD-
able residences in the metropolis. In the attached schedule is the use of the wunscot, enumerating
separately every piece of wainscot on the premises. The tenant is bound to keep in repair the ** Portico
Walke" underneath the premises; he is at all times to have "ingresse, egresse and regresse " through
the Portico Walk ; and he may '* expel, put, or drive away out of the said walke any youth or othisr
person whatsoever which shall eytherplay or be in the said Portico Walke in offence or disturbance to
the said Sir Edmund Vemey."— C^ Ufe qf London, vol. ii., p. 81, 1860.
At the present Bedford Coffee-house, or Hotel, the Beef-steak Society met before their
removal to the Lyceum Theatre.
Bbitish Cotfeb-hottse, Cockspur-street, " long a house of call for Scotchmen/' has
been fortunate in its landladies. In 1759, it was kept by the sister of Bishop Douglas,
so well known for his works against Lauder and Bower, which may explain its Scottish
fame. At another period it was kept by Mrs. Anderson, described in.Mackenade's JLif&
of Some as " a woman of uncommon talents, and the most agreeable conversation*"
Buttok's Cotfee-hoitbb, " over against Tom's, in Covent-garden," was established
in 1712, and thither Addison transferred much company from Tom's. In July, 1713, a
Lion's Head, " a proper emblem of knowledge and action, being all head and paws,"
was set up at Button's, in imitation of the celebrated Lion at Venice, to receive letters
and papers for the Guardian. Here the wits of that time used to assemble ; and
among them, Addison, Pope, Steele, Swift, Arbuthnot, Count Viviani, Savage, Budgell,
Philips, Davenant, and Colonel Brett; and here it was that Philips hung up a birchen
rod, with which he threatened to chastise Pope for " a biting epigram." Button, tho
master of the Coffee-house, had been a servant in the Countess of Warwick's iaxnily ;
and it is said that when Addison suffered any vexation from the Countess, he withdrew
the company from Button's house. Just iidfter Queen Anne's accession. Swift made
acquaintance with the leaders of the wits at Button's. Ambrose Philips refers to him
as the strange clergyman whom the frequenters of the Coffee-house had obscn'ed for
some days. He knew no one, no one knew him. He would lay his hat down on a
table, and walk up and down at a brisk pace for half an hour without speaking to any
one. Then he would snatch up his hat, pay his money at the bar, and walk off, with*
COFFEE'EOUSES. 263
oat having opened his lips. Ho was called in the room '* the mad parson." Here
Swift first saw Addison.
Sir Walter Scott gives, upon the anthoritj of Dr. Wall, of Worcester, who had it firom Dr. Arbath-
Bot himself tlie fbllowing anecdote, lest coarse than the venion osiully told. Swift was seated at the
fire at Button's: there was sand on the floor of the coflbe-room, and Arbuthnot offered him a letter
which he hod been just addressing, saying at the same time—" There, sand that." ** I have no sand,"
aofwercd Swift : " but I can help yon to a little graoek" This he said so significantly, that Arbuthnot
baitily snatchad back the letter, to save It from the Ikto of the capital of LilUpat.
At Bottom's the leading company, particalarly Addison and Steele, met in large
flowing flaxen wigs. Sir Godfrey Kneller, too, was a well-dressed frequenter. The
master died in 1731, when in the Daily AdoertUer, October 5, appeared the follow-
ing:—** On Snnday morning, died, after three days' illness, Mr. Button, who formerly
kept Button's Coffee-honse, in Rnssell-street, Covent-garden ; a very noted house for
witi^ being the place where the Lyon produced the ftmbus Toilers and Spectators,
vritten by the late Mr. Secretary Addison and Sir Richard Steele, Knt., which works
will tnmsmlt their names with honour to posterity." Mr. Cunningham found in the
restxy.booka of St. Paul's, Covent-garden :—** 1719, April 16. Recdved of Mr. Daniel
BattoD, for two places in the pew No. 18, on the south side of the north Isle, 21, 2s,*'
J. T. Smith states that Button's name appears in the books of St. Paul's as receiving
sn allowanoe from the parish. (See Streets ofl^oncUm, PSrt I. p. 159.)
Button's continued in vog^e until Addison's death and Steele's retirement into Wales,
after which the house was deserted ; the coffee-drinkers went to the Bedford Coffee-
iioase, the dinner-parties to the Shakspeare. In 1720, Hogarth mentions " four draw«
iogs in Indian ink " of the characters at Button's Coffee-house. In these were sketches *
of Arbuthnot, Addison, Pope, (as it is conjectured,) and a certain Count Y iviani, iden*
Rifled years afterwards by Horace Walpole, when the drawings came under his notice,
^ey subsequently came into Ireland's poesesdon. — (Sala's vivid WiUiam Hogarth,
Coniill Magazine, voL i. 428.) Jemmy Madaine, or M'Clean, the &shionable high-
wayman, was a frequent visitor at Button's, which subsequently became a private house ;
and here Mrs. Inchbald lodged, probably, after the death of her sister, for whose sup-
port she practised such noble and generous self-deniaL Phillips^ the publisher, offered
lier a thousand pounds for her Memoirs, which she declined.
The memorable lMn*9 Htad is tolerably well carved : through the month the letters were dropped
into a till at Button's ] and beneath were inscribed these two lines f^om Martial : —
" Cervantur mognls it ti Cerricibas ongnes i
Non nisi deUcti pasdtor Ule ferA."
the h«sd was designed by Hofforth, and is etched in Ireland's UUutralionB, Lord Chesterfield is
nid to have once offered for the Head fifty guineas. From Button's it was removed to the Shakspeare
Head Tavern, under the Piaxzo, kept by a person named Tomkyns ; and in 1761, was, for a short time,
plsoed in the Bedford Coflbe-house immediately adjoining the Shakspesre, and there employed as a
btter-box by Dr. John Hill, for liis Itupeetor, In 1709, Tomkyns was succeeded by his waiter, Camp-
tetl, as proprietor of the tavern and Lion's head, and br him the latter was retained until Nov. 8, 1B04,
vhen it was purchased by Mr. Charles Richardson, of Richardson's Hotel, for 17/. 10«., who also pos-
Ks*ed the oilgixial sign of the Shakspeare Heod. After Mr. Richordson^s death in 1827, the Lion's
Head de?ol?ea to his son, of whom it was bought by the Duke of Bedford, and deposited at Wobum
Abbey, where it atiU nanaixu,^CommuHieaMlbgMr,Joh» Grteu.-^ee also Ouardian, Nos. 86, 93, 11^142.
Chapteb Ck>VFEB-HOUBB, 50, Pstemoster-row, is mentioned in Ko. 1 of the Connois^
lesr, January 81, 1754, as the resort of " those enconragers of literature, and not the
wont judges of merit, the booksellers." Chatterton dates several letters from the
Chapter, Goldsmith frequented the coffee-room, and always occupied one place, which,
for many years after, was the seat of literary honour there. The Chapter had its leather
token.'
Alennder Stephens left some remlnisoenoes of the many literati and politicians who frequented
tbe Chapter from 1797 to 1805. The box in the north-east comer was called the Witenagimot^ and was
occupied by the ** Vet Paper Clab." Here assembled Dr. Buchan, author of D<mnHe Medieint; Dr.
Beramore, Master of the Charter-house ; Walker, the'rhetoridan ; and Dr. Towers, the political writer |
I>r.Georn Fordyc^ sod Dr. Oower of ''the Middlesex," who, with Buchan, prescribed the Chapter
P|incb; fioUnson, King of the Booksellers, and his brother John; Joseph Johnson, the friend of
Priestley sod Paine, and Cowper and FuseU } Alexander Chalmers, the workman of the Robinsons; the
two Porrys, of the Crarwr, then the organ of Jacobinism ; Lowndes, the electrician; Dr. Bosby the
writer on music; Jacob, an Alderman andM.P.; Woithman, then Common Councilman: Mr. Bloke,
the booker, of Lombard-street; Mr. Patterson, a North Briton, who taught Pitt mathematics ; Alexan-
der Stephens: and Phillips (oftennirds Sir Blcnord), who here recruited for contributors to his MonWg
ffigiuuie. The Witenogemot lost its literary celebrities ; but the Chapter maintained its reputation
for good punch and eofliee, scarce poa^hlets, and liberal supply of town and country newspopen.
264 CURIOSITIES OF LONDON.
Mrs. Gaskell has left the following aoooant of the Chapter in 1848 : —
** It latterly became ttie tavern fVeqnented by aniTenitT men, and country clerxymen, who were np in
London for a fewr dayi, and, bavins no private firienas or acceu into aocie^, were glad to leam
what was golnfir on in the world of letters, from the conversation which they were sure to hear in the
coiTee-room. It was a place solely frequented by men; I believe there was but one female servant in
the house. Few people slept there : some of the stated meetings of the trade were held in it, as they
had been for more than a century ; and occasionally country booksellers, with now and then a dersr-
man, resorted to it. In the long, low, dingy room upstairs, the meetings of the trade were held." The
Chapter is now a modernized public-house.
Child's Covfee-house, St. Paul's Chnrchyard, was one of the Spectator's houses,
who smoked a pipe here, and whilst he seemed attentive to nothing but the Postman,
overheard the conversation of every table in the room. It was much frequented by the
clergy, and Fellows of the Royal Society. Dr. Mead often came here. Child's was,
in one respect, superseded by the Chapter, in Paternoster-row.
Cliffobd-stbeet Coffee-house, comer of Bond-street, had its debating dub.
(See ante p. 245.) During a debate, the refreshment was porter, to a pot of
which Canning compared the eloquence of Mirabeau, as empty and vapid as Lis
patriotism — " foam and froth at the top, heavy and muddy within."
Cocoa-Tbee, 64^ St. James's-street. (See Cocoa-tbee Ci.rB, p. 246.)
Dick's CoFFEE-HorsE (now a Tavern), 8, Fleet-street, near Temple Bar, ^vas ori-
ginally called Richard's, from its landlord, Richard Torver, or Turver, in 1G80. Here
Steele takes the "Twaddlers," in the Tatler, Nos. 86 and 132. The coffoe-room was
frequented by the poet Cow per, when he lived in the Temple. The room retains its
olden panelling, and the staircase its original balusters.
** In 1737, Dick's was kept by a Mrs. Yarrow and her daugrhter, who were the reigning toasts with
the frequenters, and were supposed to be ridiculed in the comedy of * The Coffee-house,' by the Rcr.
James Miller. This was stoutly denied by the author: but the engraver having inadvertently fixed
npon Dick's Coffee-houso as the frontispiece scene, the Templars, with whom the ladies were great
avourites, became by his accident so confirmed in their suspicions, that they united to damn the piece,
and even extended their resentment to everything suspectca to be this author's for a considerable time
after." — BiosrajJiia Dramatica,
The Coflee-house was, wholly or in part, the original printing-office of Richard
Tottel, law-printer to Edward Y I., Queens Mary and Elizabeth ; the premises were
attached to No. 7, Fleet-street, which bore the sign of '* The Hand and Starre," where
Tottel lived, and published the law and other works he prmted. No. 7 was subse-
quently occupied by Jaggard and Joel Stephens, eminent law-writers, temp. Geo. I. — >
III. ; and at the present day the house is most appropriately occupied by Messrs.
Butterworth, who follow the occupation Tottel did in the days of Edward VI., being
law-publishers to Queen Victoria ; and they possess the original leases, from the earliest
grant, in the reign of Henry VIII., to the period of their own purchase.
Geoege'b Coffee-uottse (now a hotel), 213, Strand, near Essex-street, is naen-
tioned by Footc, in his Life of A. Murphy , as an evening meeting-place of the town
wits of 1751. Shenstone was a frequenter of George's, where, for a shilling sub-
scription, he read " all pamphlets under a three shillings' dimension." It was cloesed
in 1843.
Grecian Coffee-house, Devereux-court, Strand, was originally kept by one Con-
stantine, a Grecian. From this house Steele proposed to date his learned article^ in the
Tatler ; it is mentioned in No. 1 of the Spectator ; and it was much frequented by
Goldsmith and the Irish and Lancashire Templars. The Speciator*s face was very
well knoMm at the Grecian, " adjacent to the law." Occasionally it was the scene of
learned discussion. Thus, Dr. King relate that one evening, two gentlemen, who were
constant companions, were disputing here, concerning the accent of a Greek word.
This dispute was carried to such a length, that the two friends thought proper to
determine it by their swords : for this purpose they stepped into Devereux-court, where
one of them (Dr. King thinks his name was Fitzgerald) was run through the body, and
died on the spot. The Grecian was Foote's morning lounge. Here (Goldsmith occa-
sionally wound up his "Shoemaker's Holiday" with supper. The house was also
COFFEE-HOUSES. 265
frequented by Fellows of tho Royal Society. The premises have, since 1843. been the
''Grcciaa Cljambers ;" and over the door is the bust of Devereox, Earl of Essex.
Gabbawat's Coffee-house, 3, Change-alley, Cornhill, had a threefold celebrity i
tea was first sold in Eng^land here ; it was a place of great resort in the time of the
Sooth Sea Bubble ; and was throughout a house of great mercantile transactions. The
original proprietor was Thomas Q&rw&j, tobacconist and coffee-man, the first who
reLiiled tea, recommending it for the cure of all disorders; the following is the sub-
fUnce of his shop-bill : —
"Tea in England hath been told in the leaf for six pounds, and Bometimcs for ten pounds the pound
veiirbt, and in respect of ita former scarceness and deamess. it hath been only used as a regalia in high
tratm^nts and entertainments, and presents made thereof to princes and grandees till the ^ear 1661.
Jbe said Thomas Garway did purchase a quantity thereof, and nrst publicly sold the said tea in leaf and
drisk, made aocordinz to the directions of the most knowing merchants and travellers into those
ftftena eoontries ; and upon knowledge and experience of the said Garway's continued care and industry
ID obtaoung the best tea, and making drink thereof, very manr noblemen, physicdans, merchants, and
foitiflaen of quality, have ever since sent to him for the said leaf, and d^f resort to hia house in £x-
cnanse-alley, aforesaid, to drink the drink thereof; and to the end that aJl persona of eminence and
^^tj, gentlemen, and others, who have occaaion for tea in leaf, may be supplied, these are to give
^tice that the aaid Thomas Garway hath tea to aell from sixteen to fifty shillings per pound." (See the
«wuaent entire in Ellis's Letters, series iv. 58.)
Ogilby, the compiler of the Britannia, had his standing lottery of books at Garway's
from April 7, 1673, till wholly drawn off; and, in the Journey through England, 1722,
Garraway*8, Kobins's, and Joe's, are described as the three celebrated Coffee-houses :
tbe first, the people of quality, who have business in the City, and the most consider-
able and wealthy citizens, frequent; the second, the foreign banquiers, and often
eren foreign ministers ; and the third, the buyers and sellers of stock. Wines were
sold at Garraway's in 1673, " by the candle " — that is, by auction, while an inch of
ttndle bums. Swift, in his " Ballad on the South Sea Scheme," 1721, did not forget
tliis Coffee-honae :—
** Meanwhile, secure on Garway's cliffs,
A. savage race by shipwrecks fed.
Lie waiting for the foundcr'd skiffs,
And strip the bodies of the dead."
'^e reader may recollect with what realistic power of incident and character
Jlr. £. H. Ward painted, some twenty years ago, the strange scene in the Alley ;
and his characteristic picture is, fortunately, placed in our National Gallery, as a
■OUQ for all time. In the background is shown the Garraway's of 1720.
l^r. Radcliffe, who was a rash speculator, was usually planted at a table at Garra-
^*y'*i to watch the turn of the market. One of his ventures was five thousand
Pjuiess upon one project. When he was told at Garraway's that it was all lost, " Why,"
wid he, ** 'tia but going up five thousand pair of stairs more." " This answer," says
*wn Brown, " deserved a statue."
^^ATRiway's was long famous as a sandwich and drinking-room, for sherry, pale ale,
*^ punch. Tea and coffee were also served. It is said that the sandwich-maker was
^pied two hoors in cutting and arranging the sand^^iches before the day's consuinp-
ucni ooQimenced. The large sale-room was an old-fashioned iirst-fioor apartment, with
tonall rostrum for the seller, and a few commonly-grained settles for the buyers;
^cye were also other sale-rooms. Here sales of ^rugs, mahogany, and timber were
penodically held. Twenty or thirty property and other sales sometimes took place in
* day. The walls and windows of the lower room were covered with auction placards.
The first Garway's Coffee-house was destroyed in the Great Fire ; the house was
'^bnilt, and again burnt in the fire in Cornhill, in 1748 ; and agun rebuilt, and finally
^^^(^ August 18, 1866. The basement, used as wine-vaults, was ancient, of fourteenth
f^d riiteenth century architecture, of ecclesiastical character, and had a piscina. It
IS remarkable that Garraway's, where tea was first sold, and the Angel, at Oxford,
*uere coffee was first sold, were both taken down in 1866. — Illustrated LiJndon Netcs,
GfiAY'B-iNjr Cofpbb-houSe, eastern comer of Gray's-inn Gate, Holborn : here
^ere formerly held the Commissions De Lunaiico inquirendo. It was closed in 1865.
St. Jasczs's Coffeb-house, the famous Whig Coffee-house from the time of Queen
266 - CURIOSITIES OF LONDON.
Aime till late in the reign of George III. It was the last house hut one on theaoath-
weat comer of St. James's-street, and is thus mentioned in No. 1 of the Taller :
"Foreign and domestic news you will have from St. James's Coffee-house." It
occurs also in the Spectator, The St. James's was much frequented hy Swift; letters
for him were left there. Here Swift christened the coffee-man Elliof s child, " when,"
says he, "the rogue had a most nohle supper, and Steele and I sat amongst some scurvy
company over a howl of punch." Lady Mary Wortley Montague's Town Seloguee
were first read over at the St. James's Coffee-house. From its proximity to the Palace,
it was much visited by the Guards.
But the St. James's is more memorable as the house where originated Goldamith's
celebrated poem, Setaliation, The poet belonged to a temporary association of men
of talent, some of them members of the Club, who dined together occasionally here.
At these dinners he was generally the last to arrive. On one occasion, when he was
later than usual, a whim seized the company to write epitaphs on him, as " the late Dr.
Goldsmith," and several were thrown off in a playful vein. The only one extant was
written by Garrick, and has been preserved, very probably, by its pungency :—
" Here lies poet Goldsmith, for riiortneae called Noll;
He wrote Uke an angel, bat talked Uke poor Poll."
Gtoldsmith did not relish the sarcasm, especially coming from such a quarter ; and,
by way of retaliation, he produced the famous poem, of which Cumberland has left a
very interesting account, but which Mr. Forster, in his Life of Qoldsmith^ states t^
be " pure romance." The poem itself, however, with what was prefixed to it when
publidied, sufficiently explains its own origin.
The St. James's was closed about 1806, and a large pile of buildings looking down
Pall Mall erected on its site. The globular oil-lamp was first exhibited by its inventor,
Michael Cole, at the door of the St. James's Coffee-house, in 1709 : in the patent he
obtained, it is mentioned as " a new kind of light."
Jahaica Coffee-hottse, 1, St. Michael's-alley, Comhill, is noted for the accuracy
and fulness of its West India intelligence. The subscribers are merchants landing
with Madeira and the West Indies. It is the best place for information as to the
mail-packets on the West India station, or the merchant vessels making these
voyages.
Jebusalxm Coftee-housb, 1, Cowper's-court, ComhiU, is one of the oldest of the
City news-rooms, and is frequented by merchants and captains connected with the
commerce of China, India, and Australia.
" The subecriptlon-room is well fhmished with files of the principal Canton, Hong Kong, Macao,
Penang, Singapore, Calcutta, Bombay, Madras, Sydney, Hobart Town, Laanc^eston, Adelaide, and Port
Philip papers, and Prices Current; besides shipping-lists and papers from the various intermediate
stations or ports touched at, as St. Helena, the Cape of Good Hope. Ac. The books of East India
ahipping include arrivals, departures, casualties, &c. The ftdl business is between two and three o'clock,
Y.K. In 1845. John Tawell, the Slough murderer, was captured at the Jerusalem, which he was in tJie
habit of visiting, to ascertain Information of the state of his property in Sydney."'-7Ae City, 2nd
edit., 1848.
Jonathan's, Change-alley Coffee-house, is described in the Tatler, Ko. 38, as
"the general mart of stock-jobbers;" and the Spectator, No. 1, tells us that he
" sometimes passes for a Jew in the assembly of stock-jobbers at Jonathan's." This
was the rendezvous where gambling of all sorts was ciirried on ; notwithstanding a
formal prohibition against the assemblage of the jobbers, issued by the City of LondoD,
which prohibition continued unrepealed until 1825. Mrs. Centlivre, m her comedy of
A Bold Stroke for a Wife, has a scene from Jonathan's at the above period : while
the stock-jobbers are talking, the coffee boys are crying, " Fresh coffee, gentlemen,
fresh coffee ! Bohea tea, gentlemen !"
LANOBdURN COPTEK-HOTJSE, Ball-allcy, Lombard-street, rebuilt in 1850, has a
broiling-stove in the coffee-room, whence chops and steaks are served hot from the
gridiron; and here is a wine and cigar room, embellished in handsome old French
taste.
LIiOYB'b, Boyal Exchange, celebrated for its priority of shipping intelligeucc^ and
COFFEE-HOUSES. 267
id marine insanmce, orig^ated with one Lloyd, who kept a coffee-hoiiBe in Lombard-
itreet One of th^ apartmenta in the Exchange is fitted np as Lloyd's Coffee«room.
{See EXCKAJSOBS.)
LovDOS CoPFES-HOTTSS, Lndgate-hill (now a hotel and tavern), was opened May,
1/31, as " a punch house, Dorcheeter Beer, and Welsh Ale Warehouse, where the finest
and best old Arrack, Ram, and French Brandy is made into Punch." In front of the
LoDdon Cofibe-hoiise, immediately west of St. Martin's Church, stood Ludgate ; and
on the site of the church Wren found the montmient of a Roman soldier of the Second
I'^S^ which is preserved in the Arundelian Collection. The London Cofiee-house is
Boted for its publishers' sales of stock and copyrights. It was within the rules of the
Heet Prison : and in* the Coffee-house are " locked up " for the night such juries from
the Old Bailey Sesuons as cannot agree upon verdicts. The house was long kept by
the grandfidiher and father of Mr. John Leech, the celebrated artist. At the bar of
tiie London Cofiee-house was sold Rowley's British Cephalic Snnff. A singular ind-
^t occurred here many years since ; Mr. Brayley, the topographer, was present at a
puty, when Mr. Broadhurst, the famous tenor, by singing a high note, caused a
^rin^glass on the table to break, the bowl being separated fix>m the stem.
Miys CoTFBE-HOUSB, in Scotland-yard, near the water-side, took its name from
ibe proprietar, Alexander Man, and was sometimes known as Old Man's, or the Royal
Co^booge, to distingfuish it &om Young Man's and Little Man's minor establishments
in the neighbourhood.
Mileb's Coffee-house, New Palace-yard, Westminster, was the place of meeting
c>f the noted BoU Club. {See Clubs, p. 255.)
Huttbat'b Coffee-house, Muden-lane, was a noted sporting resort in the days
of Captam England, Dennis CEelly, Hull, the Ckrkes, and others of turf notoriety.
It was one of Sheridan's retreats, secure from his creditors.
NiiTDo's Coffee-house was the house at the east comer of Inner Temple-lane,
17, Fleet-street^ and next door to the shop of Bernard Lintot, the bookseller;
tboQgh it has been by some confused with Groom's house, next door. Kando's was
^be &vociiite haunt of Lord Thurlow, before he dashed into law practice. At this
^ee-house a large attendance of professional loungers was attracted by the fame
of the punch and the charms of the landlady, which, with the small wits, were duly
^ired by and at the bar. Tlie house, formerly Nando's, was also the depository of
Mr. Sahnon's Waxwork. It has been for many years a hair-dresser's. It is inscribed,
"Pormeriy the Pahico of Henry VIII. and Cardinal Wolsey." But the structure is of
tbe time of James I., when it was the ConncU Office of the Duchy of Cornwall ; an
entry in 1619 is from " Prince's CouncU Chamber, Fleet-street."
^'bw Enolakd and J^obth Aio) South American Copfee-house, 69 and 60,
Threadneedle-street, bad a subscription-room, with newspapers from every quarter of
^ue globe. Here the first information could be obtained of the arrival and departure of
Bteamers, packets, and traders engaged in the commerce of America, whether at Mon-
treal and Quebec, or Boston, Halifax, and New York. The heads of the chief American
^d continental firms were on the subscription-list, and the representatives of Barings*
I'othschilds, and other wealthy establishments, attended the room as regularly as
^ange ; as did also American captains, and the " City Correspondents" of the morning
'•iod evening press. From 300 to 400 files of newspapers were kept here, ranging from
America to the East or West Indies, thence to Australia, the Havana, France, Ger-
^^h Holland, Russia, Spain, and Portugal. (Abridged from The City, 2nd edit.)
Adjoining was the Cook Tavern, with a large soap-room, named after tbe Cock, which fl»oed the
"^^ ffUa of the old Royal Exchange, and was long celebrated for the ezoellence of its soups, served
|u MtTer. ThU house was taken down in 1841 ; when, in a claim for compensation made by the pro-
I ictor, the trade in three yean was proved to have been 341,720 basins of various soupe— viz., 166,240
<<'Ck turtle^ 3920 giblet, 69,360 ox-tdl, 31,072 bouilU, 84,128 gravy and other soups: sometimes SOO
"wns of soup were sold in a day.
Pebub'b, 177 and 178, Fleet-street, east comer of Petter-lane, was one of the coffee*
Qooies of the Johnsonian period ; and here was long preserved a portrait of Dr.
268 CURIOSITIES OF LONDON,
Johnson, on the keystone of a chimney-piece, stated to have been painted by Sir Josboa
Reynolds. Peele's was noted for its files of newspapers from these dates : Oazelte, 1759;
Times, 1780; Morning Chronicle, 1773; Morning Pott, 1773; Morning Herald^
1784; Morning Adveriiter, 1794. Peele's is now a tavern and hoteL
Percy Coffee-housb, the, Bathbone-plaoe, Oxford-street, no long^ exists ; but it
will be kept in recollection for its having given name to one of the most popular pub-
lications, of its class, in our time, namely, the Fercg Anecdotes, " by Sholto and Reuben
Percy, Brothers of the Benedictine Monastery of Mont Benger/' in 44 parts, com-
mencing in 1820. So said the title-pages ; but the names and the locality were snp-
posS, Reuben Percy was Thomas Byerley, who died in 1824; Sholto Percy was Joseph
Clinton Robertson, who died in 1832. The name of the collection of Anecdotes was
not taken, as at the time supposed, from the popularity of the JPercg Eeliques, but
from the Percy Cofiee-housc, where Byerley and Robertson were accustomed to meet to
talk over the joint work.
Piazza Coffee-house, the, was opened ui thafr portion of the Piazza houses in
Covent-gardeu which is now the Tavistock Hotel. Here Macklin fitted up a large
Coffee-room, or theatre for oratory ; a three- shilling ordinary, and a shilling lectnrc : lie
presided at the dinner- table, and carved for the company, after which he played a sort
of " Oracle of Eloquence." Fielding has happily sketched him in his Voyctge io
Lisbon : ** Unfortunately for the fishmongers of London, the Dory only resides in the
Devonshire seas ; for could any of this company only convey one to the Temple of
Luxury under the Piazza, where Macklin, the high priest, daily serves up bis rich
offerings, great would be the reward of that fishmonger."
Foote, in his fun upon Macklin's Lectures, took up his notion of applying
Greek tragedy to modem subjects, and the squib was so successful, that Foote
cleared by it 5002. in five nights, while the g^eat Piazza Coffee-room in Coveiit-
garden was shut up, and Macklin in the Gazette as a bankrupt. Eastward was
the Piazza Cofiee-housc, much frequented by Sheridan and John Kemble; and
here is located the well-known anecdote told of Sheridan's coolness during the
burning of Drury-lane Theatre, in 1809. It is said that as he sat at the Hazza,
during the fire, taking some refreshment, a friend of his having remarked on the philo-
sophical calmness with which he bore his misfortune, Sheridan replied : " A man may
surely be allowed to take a glass of wine by his own fireside*' The Piazza facade and its
interior were of Gothic design : the house has been taken down, and in its place is built
the Floral Hall, after the Crystal Palace model, thus breaking the continuity of Inigo
Jones*s arcade.
Rainbow Coffeehouse (now a tavern), 15, Fleet-street, by the Inner Temple
Gate, was the second Cofiee-hcuse opened in London, and had its token-money : —
" Jakxs Fasb, 1666. A Rainbow. "^ nr Flxbt-stksxt. In the centre, his HALmvirr. It is well
known that James Fair kept the Rainbow, in Fleet-street, at the time of the Qreat Fire, the verr jcar
of which is marlced on this token. Farr was a barber; and in the year 1657 was presented bj the' Jn*
qnest of St. Dunstan's-in-the-West for making and celling ' a sort of Honor called ** coffee," whercbj in
making the same he annoyeth his neighbours by evill smells ; and for keeping of fire for the most part
night and day, whereby his chimney and chamber hath been set on fire, to the great danger and affright
ment of his neighbours.' "
However, Farr was not ousted; he probably promised reform» or amended the
alleged annoyance : he remained at the Rainbow, and rose to be a person of eminence
and repute in the parish. He issued the above token, date 1666 — an arched Runbow based
on douds, doubtless, from the Great Fire — to indicate that with him all was yet s:ife,
and the Rainbow still radiant. There is one of his tokens in the Beaufoy collection,
at Guildhall, and so far as is known to Mr. Burn, the Rainbow does not occur on any
other tradesman's token. The house was let off into tenements : books were printed
here at this very time " for Samuel Speed, at the^sign of the Rainbow, near the Inner
Temple Gate, in Fleet-street.*' The Phccnix Fire Office was established here about
1682. Hatton, in 1708, evidently attributed Farr's nuisance to the coffee itself, say-
ing : " Who would have thought London would ever have had three thousand such
nuisances, and that coffee would have been (as now) so much drank by the best of
quality, and physicians ?" The nuisance was in Farr's chimney and carelessness, not
COFFEE-HOUSES. 269
in the coffee. The Spectator, No. 16, notices some gay frequenters of the Rainbow :
** I hare received a letter desiring me to be very satirical upon the little muff that is
oow in fiuhion ; another informs me of a pair of silver garters, buckled below the
knee, that have lately been seen at the Bainbow Coffee-house, in Fleet-street." Mr.
^ooeneS, the dramatist, used to tell that about 1780 this house was kept by his grand-
&ther, Alexander Moncrieff, when it retained its original title of " The Rainbow Coffee-
^MQse." It has vaulted cellars, excellent for keeping stout; the old coffee-room
originally had a lofty bay-window at the south end, looking into the Temple; in the
l«y was the large table for the elders. The room was separated by a glazed partition
from the kitchen, where was a dock with a large wooden dial. The house has long
been a tavern : all the old rooms have been swept away, and a large and lofty dining-
n^mi erected in their place. There are views of the old entrance to the Rainbow in
Hogfason and Malcolm's London, 1807 and 1808.
Saltebo'b (Don) Coffeb-hottse, 18, Cheyne-walk, Chelsea, was opened by a barber
flamed Salter, in 1695. Sir Hans Sloane, whose valet Salter had been, contributed
^^>nie of the refuse gimcracks of his own collection ; and Vice- Admiral Munden, who
^ been long on the coast of Spain, named the keeper of the house Don Saltero, and
^is ooffee-honse and museum, Don Salfero's, Steele, in the thirty-fourth number of
^'ae Toiler, describes Salter as "carrying on the avocations of barber and dentist.
Yon see the barher in Don Quixote is on€ of the principal characters in the history,
which gave me satisfhction on the doubt why Don Saltero writ his name with
s Spanish termination. Ten thousand were gimcracks round the room, and on the
(^^^ ; and a sage of thin and meagre countenance, of that sort which the ancients
rail * gingivister,' in our language, * tooth -drawers.' " Among the curiosities presented
W Admiral Mnnden was a coffin, containing the body or relics of a Spanish saint, who
Ij^d irroQght miracles; also, " a straw hat, which," says Steele, " I know to be made by
^<lge Peskad, within three miles of Bedford ; and he tells you ' It is Pontius Pilate's
life's chambermaid's sister's hat.' " The Don was famous for his punch and his skill
OQ the fiddle; he also drew teeth, and wrote verses; he described his museum in several
stanza^ one of which is—
* "Monsters of all sorts here are seen:
Strange things in nature as they grew so ;
Some relicks of the Sheba qneen.
And fragments of the Ceun'd Bob Crusoe."
^ Saltero's proved very attractive as an exhibition, and drew crowds to the Coffee-
^^^f^i^. A Catalogue was published, of which were printed more than forty editions.
Smollett, the novelist^ was among the donors. The edition of 1760 comprehended the
lowing rarities :—
Jp^otf totkM; the Pope's candle; the skeleton of a Guinea-pig ; a fly-cap monkey; a piece of the
*|[^CTt)«; the Four Evangelists' heads cut on a cherry-stone; the King of Morocco's tobacco-pipe;
^«rj Opeen of Scots' ptaicushion ; Queen Elizabeth's prayer-book ; a pair of nun's stockingv; Job's
f? '^dams, that was hanged at Tyburn with Lawver Carr, January 18, 1736-7 ; Sir Walter Raleigh's
tri'^P^P^' Vicar of Bray's clogs; engine to shell green peas with; teeth that grew in a fish's belly;
]^^k Jack's ribs ; the very comb that Abraham combed nis son Isaac and Jacob's head with ; Wat
J}^* spurs; rope that cured Captain Lowryof the head-ach, ear-ach, tooth-ach, and belly-ach;
Adam's key of the fore and back door of the Garden of Eden," &c. &c. These are only a few out of five
vaOn^ others equally marvellous.
In Dr. Franklin's Life we read i — " Some gentlemen from the country went by water
^ >ee the College, and Don Saltero's Curiosities, at Chelsea." These were shown in
^W coffoe-room till August, 1799, when the collection was mostly sold or dispersed ; a
*'^ gimcracks were 1^ until about 1825, when we were informed on the premises,
^% were thrown away ! The house was taken down in 1866. (See Chel-
*^ p. 90.)
^au'b CovFEX-HorSE, in Exchange-alley; and in Lndgate-street. The latter is
^^ioned in State Poems, 1697 and 1703 ; and in 1722 there were two large mul*
^'^'treei growing in a little yard in the rear of the house in Lndgate-street.
270 CURIOSITIES OF LONDON.
Seblb'b CoPFR-HOiTBBy Carey-fltTOet, is tbiu mentioned in Ko. 49 of tho Spectator c
'^ I do not know that I meet in any of my walks, objects which move both my spleen
and laughter so effectnally as those yonng fellows at the Gredan, Squire's, Serle'a, and
all other Coffee-hooses adjacent to the Law, who rise for no other pnipoee bat to pabliah
their laziness."
Suluohteb'b Cofves-housb, Simons as the resort of painters and scalptors, in the
last century, was situated at the upper end of the west side of St. Martin's-lane, three
doors from Newport-street. Its first landlord was Thomas Slaughter, 1692. A second
Slaughter's (New Slaughter's) was established in the same street about 1760, when the
original establishment adopted the name of " Old Slanghter's," by which designation it
was known till within a few years of the final demolition of the house to make way for
the new avenue between Long-acre and Leicester-square, formed 184S-44. For many
years previous to the streets of London being completely paved, " Slaughter's" was
called " The Coffee-house on the Pavement." Besides bdng the resort of artists, Old
Slaughter's was the hogse of call for Frenchmen. Hogarth was a constant visitor here :
he lived at the Golden Head, on the eastern nde of Leicester-fielda^ in the northern half
of the Sabloni^ Hotel. Boubiliac was often to be found at Slaughter's ; and young-
Gainsborough and Cipriani ; Jervis and Hayman met here, and seldom parted till day-
light. Wilkie, in early life^ was the last dropper-in here for a dinner; and Haydon
was often his companion. J. T. Smith refers to Slaughter's as ** formerly the rendez-
vous of Pope, Dryden, and other wits." Thither came Ware, the architect of Chesterfield
House; also Gwynn, who competed with Mylne for Blaokfriars Bridge; and Gravelot,
who kept a Drawing-school in the Strand. Hudson, who painted the Dilettanti por-
traits ; M'Ardell, the mezzotinto*scraper ; and Luke SnUivan, the engraver of Hogarth's
March to Finchley, also frequented Old Slaughter's ; likewise Theodore Gordell, the
portrait-painter, who was executed for the murder of his landlady ; and Old Moser,
keeper of the Drawing-academy in Feter's-coort. Bichard Wilson, the landscape
painter, was not a regular customer here. Faxry, the Welsh harper, though totally
blind, was one of the first draught-players in England, and oceasioQally played with tho
frequenters of Old Slaughter's ; and here, in consequence of a bet, Boubiliac introduced
Nathaniel Smith (fkther of John Thomas), to play at draughts with Pftrry, when
Smith won. Rawle, the inseparable companion of Capt. Grose, the antiquary, came
often to Slaughter's ; as did ako Collilis, the young poet.
Smtbka Cotfex-housb, Pall Mall, &■ frequently alluded to by the writers of Queen
Anne's reign ; and was one of the most celebrated of the West-end houses. Prior and
Swift were among its most distinguished frequenters; its "seat of learning," and
" cluster of wise heads." Prior and Swift were much together at the Smyrna ; we read
of their sitting there two hours, " receiving acquaintance." It seemed also to be a
place to talk politics. Subscriptions were received there by Thomson, for publisbing
his Four Seasons; with a Symn on their Succession" We find the Smyrna in a list
of Coffee-houses, in 1810.
SoiCERBET COTFBB-HOXTBE, 162, Strand, has a literary association^ from the Letters
of Junius having been sometimes left at the bar.
Sqttisb'b Cofpsb-hoxtse .was in Fulwood's-rents, Holbom, running up to Okay's
Inn, and described by Strype as " a place of g^ood resort, and taken up by coffee-houses
ale-houses, and houses of entertainment;" among which were the Castle Tavern and
the Golden Griffin Tavern. Here was John's, one of the earliest Coffee-houses ; and
adjoining Gray's-inn-gate, a deep-coloured red brick house, once Squire's Coffee house,
kept by Squire, who died in 1717. The house is very roomy ; it has been handsome,
and has a wide staircase.
Sondre'B was one of the receiring-hoiues of the Speetaior : In No. 260, January 8, 1711-12, he aooepts
Sir Soger de Coyerley'B inritationto " smoke a pipe with him over a dish of coffee at Squire's. As I
love the old man, I take delight in complying with everything that is agreeable to him, ana accordingly
waited on him to the Coffee-hoose, where his Tenerable figare drew upon as tiie eyes of tiie whole room.
He had no sooner seated himself at the apper end of the nigh table, out he called for a dean pipe, a
paper of tobacco, a dish of coffee, a wax candle, and the Supplement (a periodical paper of that time),
with such an air of cheerfiilness and good hnmoor, that all the boys in ue coffee-room (who seemed to
take pleasore in serving him) were at once employed on his several errands, insomuch that nobody else
could come at a dish of tea until the Knight had got all his oonvenienoss about him.** j
COFFEE-HOUSES. 271
Gnj's.iim Walks, to which the Rents led, across Field-court, were then a fashionahle
prcmeoade; and here Sir Roger could "dear his pipes in good air;" for scaicdy a
kRse interrened thence to Uampstead.
Tox's Conm-HOU8E, Birchin-lane, Comhill, though in the nuun a mercantile
resort, Mqidred some celehrity firom its having been frequented by Gkirrick, who, to
^) up an interest in the City, appeared here about twice in a winter at 'Change
time^ when it was the rendezvous of young merchants. Hawkins says :— " After aJl
tiat has been aid of Mr. Garrick, envy must own that he owed his celebrity to his
snit; and yet of that himself seemed so diffident, that he practised sundry little but
3Qooentarts to insure the favour of the public :*' yet he did more. When a rising actor
eoQpkined to Mrs. Garrick that the newspapers abused him, the widow replied, " You
^^^ write your own critidsms ; David always did." Tom*s was also frequented by
^ttertoD, as a place "of the best resort;" here was first established" the London
t^Ks-dnb." {See Chesb-Clubs, p. 95.) The premises were long held on lease from
lad Cowper, at a rent of 150/. per annum, but had been sublet at 10002.
Ton's CoTFBE-HOtras, Devereux-conrt, Strand, was much resorted to by men of letters;
tnong whom were Dr. Birch, who wrote the Miitory of the Soyal Society ; also
Seaside, the poet ; and there is in print a letter of Pope's, addressed to Fortescue^ his
"counsel learned in the law," at this Coffee-house.
Tom's Cottee-hoube, 17, Russell-streety Covent-garden, opposite Button's, was
kept by Thomas West, uid was in the reign of Queen Anne^ and more than half a
eeatury after, a celebrated resort. (See Clubs, p. 257.)
Tox EiKo's CoTFEX-HOUflx was one of the old night-houses of Covent-garden
Market : it was a rade shed immediately beneath the portico of St. Paul's Church,
^ was one ** well known to all gentlemen to whom beds are unknown." Fielding,
p one of his prolognes, says : " What rake is ignorant of King's CofTee-honse P' It
ii in the background of Hogarth's print of " Morning," ■ where the prim maiden
-^^J. walking to church, is soured with seeing two fuddled heaux from King^s Coffee-
^'^^^ caressing two frail women. At the door is a drunken row, in which swords and
<^^ls are the weapons. Harwood's Alumni Etonenset, p. 293, in the account of the
^ dected from Eton to King's College, contains this entry : " aj>. 1713, Tliomas
^ni& bom at West Ashton, in Wiltshire, went away scholar in apprehension that his
^Howship would be denied him; and afterwards kept that Coffee-house in Covent-
S^irdeD, which was called by his own name." Moll King was landlady after Tom's
^th: she was witty, and her house was much frequented, though it was little better
^ a shed. " Noblemen and the first beaux" said Stacie, " after leaving Court,
*^d go to her house in full dress, with swords and bags, and in rich brocaded silk
<^ts, and walked and conversed with persons of every description. She would serve
^^iioney-sweepers, gardeners, and the market-people in common with her lords of the
^^€st rank.*' Captain Laroon, an amateur painter of the time of Hogarth, who often
]^itnessedthe nocturnal revels at Moll King^s, made a large and spirited drawing of the
^terior of her Coffee-house, which was at Strawberry Hill : it waa bought for Walpoler
h ^U printer. There is also an engraving of the same room, which is extremely rare.
Ttbe's Hsad Copfee-hoube, Change-alley, established in 1662; the ago. was
^orat the Great, who figures as a tyrant in Dryden's Aureng Zehe» There is a token
^ this house with the Sultan's Head in the Beaufoy Collection. Another token, in
the tameoollection, is of unusual excellence, probably by John Roettier. It has on the
''Werse, "Morat ye Great Men did mee call,— Saltan's Head;" reverse, " Where eare
f cune I conquered all.— In the field, Coffee, Tobacco, Sherbet, Tea, Chocolat, Retail
* Eichange Alee." " The word ' tea,* " says Mr. Bum, " occurs on no other tokens than
those isnied from ' the Great Turk ' Coffee-house, in Exchange-alley." In a news-
P^iwr of 1662, customers and acquaintances are invited the New Tear's-day to the
^Teat Turk new Coffee-house, in Exchange- alley, "where coffee will be free of cost.'*
^cre was also a Sultan Morat's Head Coffee-house, which had a token, rev. « In Bar"
^^Jormerhf in Fannyer Ally."
TniK's Head Coffee-house, 142, in the Strand, was a fitvourite supping-
272 CURIOSITIES OF LONDON.
bouse with Dr. Johnson and Boswell, in whose lAfe of Johnson are several entri^
commencing with 1763 — " At night, Mr. Johnson and I supped in a private room at the
Turk's Head Coffee-house, in the Strand. ' I encourage this houses' said he, ' for the
mistress of it is a good civil woman, and has not much business.' " Another entry is —
"We oouchided the day at the Turk's Head Coffee-house very socially." And,
August 3, 1673 — " We had our last social meeting at the Turk's Head Coffee-house,
before my setting out for foreign parts." The name was afterwards changed to " The
Turk's Head, Canada and Bath Coffee-house," and lasted as a well-frequented tavern
until the house was rebuilt, at the cost of 8000/. as " Wright's Hotel :" it is now an
insarance office. The house has two stories below the level of the street.
Will's Coffbb-houbb,* the predecessor of Button's, and even more celebrated
than that Coffee-house, was so called from William Urwin, who kept it, and was the
house on the north side of Russell-street at the comer of Bow-street — the comer
house (rebuilt) — now occupied as a ham-and-beef shop, and numbered 21. Pepys, in his
Diary, records his first visit to Will's, 8 Feb. 1663-4, " where Dryden the poet (I knew
at Cambridge), and all the wits of the town, and Harris the player, and Mr. Hoole of
our college," with "very witty and pleasant discourse." Ned Ward sarcastically calls
it " the Wits' Coffee-house." Wycherley, Gay, and Dennis were frequenters. " It was
Dryden who made Will's Coffee-house the great resort of the wits of his time." {Pope
and Spence.) The room in which the poet was accustomed to sit was on the first
floor ; and his place was the place of honour by the fire«de in the winter ; and at the
comer of the balcony, looking over the street, in fine weather ; he called the two places
his winter and his summer seat. This was called the dining-room floor in the last
century. The company did not sit in boxes, as subsequently* but at various tables
which were dispersed through the room. Smoking was permitted in the public room :
it was then so much in vogue that it does not seem to have been considered a nuisance.
Hero, as in other similar places of meeting, the visitors divided themselves into parties ;
and we are told by Ward that the beaux and wits, who seldom approached the principal
table, thought it a gprcac honour to have a pinch out of Dryden's. snuff-box. Tom
Brown describes " a Wit and a Beau set up with little or no expense. A pair of red
stockings and a sword-knot set up one, and peeping once a day in at Will's, and two or
three second-hand sayings, the other."
Addison passed each day alike, and much in the manner that Dryden did. Dryden
employed his morning in writing, dined en famille, and then went to Will's, " only he
came home earlier o' nights." Pope, when very young, was impressed vntli such
veneration for Dryden, that he persuaded some friends to take him to Will's Coffee-
house, and was delighted that he could say that he had seen Dryden. Sir Charles
Wogan, too, brought up Pope from the forest of Windsor, to dress d la mode, and
introduce at Will's Coffee-house. Pope afterwards described Dryden as "a plump
man with a down look, and not very conversible ;" and Cibber remembered him " a
decent old man, arbiter of critical disputes at Will's." Prior sings of —
"the yoanj]^r Stila^
Whom Dryden pedagogues at Will's !*'
Most of the hostile criticisms on his plays, which Dryden has noticed in his various
prefaces, appear to have been made at his favourite haunt. Will's. Swift was accus-
tomed to speak disparagingly of Will's, as in his Rhapsody on Poetry : —
" Be sure at Wiirs the following day
Lie snag, and hear what critics say."
Swift thought little of the frequenters: he used to say that "the worst con-
versation he ever heard in his life was at Will's." In the first number of the Taller,
poetry is promised under the article of Will's Coffee-house. The place, however,
changed after Dryden's time. " You used to see songs, epigrams, and satires in the
hands of every man you met ; you have now only a pack of cards ; and instead of tbe
* Will's Coffee-honse first had the title of the Bed Cow (says Sir Walter Scott), then of the Rose, and,
we believe, la the same hoose alluded to in the pleasant stoiy in the second number of the Taller .—
" Supper and friends expect we at the Rose."
ThoBose, however, was a common sign for houses of pnblic entertainment.
COLLEGES. 273
eiTils about the tnm of the expremon, the elegance of the style, and the like, the
karned now dispnte only about the tmth of the game." The Spectator is sometimes
»en " thrnstijig his head into a round of politicians at Will's, and listening with groat
attention to the narratives that are made in these little circular audiences." Although
DO excIasiTe subscription belonged to any of these, we find by the account which CoUey
Cibber gives of his first visit to Will's, in Covent-garden, that it required an introduc-
tion to this society not to be considered as an impertinent intruder. Will's was the
open market for libels and lampoons. One Julian attended Will's, and dispersed among
the crowds who frequented that place of gay resort copies of the lampoons which had
^ privately communicated to him by their authors.
After Dryden's death, in 1701, Will's continued for about ten years to be still the
Wits' Coffee-house. Pope, it is well known, courted the correspondence of the town
Tits and Coffee-house critics.
Well's Covtsb-houbb, 7, Serle-street, Linooln's-inn, was much firequented by the
^al profession, and by actcora and gay company when Portugal-street had its theatre.
In the Epiemr^s Almanac, 1813, it is described as " a house of the first-class for turtle
ud venison, matured port, double-voyaged Madeira, and princely claret ; wherewithal
to wash down the dust of making law-books, and take out the inky blots from rotten
pvchment bonds." It no longer exists.
There are in the metropolis about 1000 CoflTee-shops or Coffee-rooms ; the establish*
nrat of the minority of which may be traced to the cheapening of coffee and sugar,
<od to the increase of newspapers and periodicals. About the year 1815, the London
Coffee-shops did not amount to 20, and there was scarcely a Coffee-house where coffee
(oald be had under 6d, a cup ; it may now be had at Coffee^shops at from 1<L to 8<2.
^e of these shops have from 700 to 1600 customers daily ; 40 copies of the daily
I'^Epapers are taken in, besides provincial and foreign papers, and magazines. Cooked
meat is also to be had at Coffee-shops, at one of which three cwt. of ham and beef are
*oictinies sold weekly.
COLLEGES.
T. BARNABAS COLLEGE, Queen-street, Pimlico, consists of a church, schools,
and residenUary house for the clergy, built 1846-50, in the Pointed Early English
^le, Candy, architect. The residentiary house is for clergymen who attend to the
P^f^ial duties of the district, minister in the church, teach in the schools, and super-
intend the twelve choristers. The schools were opened on St. Barnabas Day, 1847, and
tbechnrch in 1830. (See Chttbohis, p. 151.) The freehold ute of the College wa»
pven by the first Marquis of Westminster, and is in the poorest part of the district.
"^e CoUege was built by subscription, to which the Rev. W. J. E. Bennett, then incum-
^t of the district, contributed the bulk of bis fortune, and the most zealous pastoral
c^e. A " Home of Refbge," under the management of the clergy of the parish, is
atoated m the Commennal-road.— Davis's KnighUhridge, p. 253.
Chttbch of Ekolaitd Hbtbopolitah TuAnmra IwsTiTxmoy, Highbury (late
%hbiiry College), was instituted 1849, to train pious persons as masters and mistresses
<)f juvenile schools connected with the Established Church, ** upon principles Scriptural,
ETangeUcal, and Plcotestant."
CHTmcH Mission ABT College, the, Bamsbury-place, Upper Islington, is an impor-
tuit branch of the Church Missionary Society for Africa and the East ; and here the
students are trained for future missionaries. Among the early founders of this Society
*«re Wilberforce, Scott, Cecil, Newton, Venn, and Pratt : it was chiefly matured at
^^ "Edectic Society" assembling then at the vestry of St. John's Chapel, Bedford-
'uv. The annual cost of the College operations averages 100,000^., or about 1000/. for
erery station* (See Low's Charities qf London, pp. 412-13.)
Cbiuistrt, College oe (Rotal), 16, Hanover-square, was founded in 1846, for
"tttmction in Practical Chemistry at a moderate expense, and for the general advanoe-
^t of Chemical Science. The first stone of the three new laboratories was laid by
^li^ Albert, President of the College, June 16» 1846; James Lockyor, architect.
S
274 CUBI08ITIE8 OF LONDON.
The Oxford-street front has a rusticated gronnd-floor, and an upper story decorated
with six Ionic columns.
DiTLWiCH CoLLBOS, in the pleasant hamlet of Dolvrich, exactly five miles south of
Comhill, was built and endowed in 1618-19, by Edward Alley n, ''bred a stage-player:"
he became a celebrated actor, erected the Fortune Theatre, and with Henslowe, was
co-proprietor of the Paris Bear-Garden at Banknde. Alleyn named the foundation at
Dulwich " the College of God's Gift ;" for a master and warden, four fellows, six poor
brethren, six sisters, and twelve scholars; and thirty out-members lodged in alms-
houses. By the founder's statutes, the master and warden should bear the name of
Alleyn, or Allen, and both continue unmarried, or be removed from the Collie ; yet
the first master and warden (Alleyn's kinsmen) were both married, and Alleyn himself
was twice married. He bequeathed his books and musical instruments, and bis " seal-
ring with his arms, to be worn by the master." The gross annual income of the
College is about 80002., or nearly tenfold the value settled by the founder. The only
emment master or warden was John Allen, one of the earliest writers in the Sdinhurgh
Bemew. Little of the old buildings remiuns in the present structure, three sides of a
quadrangle ; the entrance gates are curiously wrought with the founder's arms, crest*
and motto " God's Gift." In the centre is the Chapel, with a low tower ; the altar-
piece is a copy, by Julio Romano^ of Raphael's Traiufiffuraiion; the front is inscribed
with a Greek anagram, the same read either way. Alleyn (d. 1626) is buried here.
Adjoining the CoUege is "the Grammar-sdhool of God's Gift College," built by Barry,
BJL., in 1842 ; and the Dulwich Gallery of Pictures, famous for its Cuyps and Murillos ;
Soane, B.A., architect.
In the GoUeffe and Master's Aittrtments sre eeyeral portraita, including Allqii the foonder, foil
lena^th, in a black ffown : alio left by CartwrighL player and bookseller, 1687» portraits of" the Actors"
Blchtmi Borbage, Nat. Field. Richard Perkins, Thomas Bond, Ac. ; and of the poet Drayton ; Lovelace
the poet, and *' Althea " with her hair dishevelled ; a Lady in a richly-flowered dress, large roii; and
pearls: and a Merchant and his Lady on panel, their hands restiog upon a human akull placed on a
tomb, oelow which is a naked corpse. The librai^ chimney-piece is made out of ** the upper part of the
Queen's barge," purchased by AUeyn in 1618. The books number about 4000 volumes : those relating
to the theatre have been exchanged or filched away ; and a very valuable collection of old plays was
exchanged by tiie College with Garrick for modem workL and eventually purchased for the British
Museum. Tne College poaseeses an original letter written by Alleyn to his first wife, Joan Woodward,
from Chelmsford, in 1660, when he was one of '* the Lord's strange Flayers." Here also is the MS
Diary and Account Book of Phillip Henslowe^ printed by the Shakspeare Sode^t and in the old carved
Treasury Chest, a memorandnm-l>ook in Alleyn's handwriting; besides other '* Dulwich papers."— See
Collier's Memoir$ qf AUeyn,
When the ofiice of Master of the College becomes vacant, the Warden immediatelv succeeds to it, and
a new Warden is elected bv the Master, the four Fellows, and six Assistants; the latter being two
churchwardens from each of the parishes of St. Botolph's, Bishopsgate; St. Luke's, Old-street-road ;
and St. Saviour's, Southwark.
In 1851, the Archhishop of Canterbury, as official Visitor of the College, extended
the education at the School to surveying, chemistry, engineering, and the allied sciences.
In 1858 was passed an Act of Parliament, by which its educational system will be kept
expanding in proportion to its wealth. There are now two Schools ; an upper, which
provides a more advanced education for boys of the better class, and a lower, intended
for the preparation of youths for commercial life ; each school about 300. The fees in
the upper school amount to 82. per annum for each boy, and in the lower to IL In
addition to these scholars there are foundation*boys in both schools, boarded and lodged
at the expense of the charity. To provide for tlds extension, new buildings were com-
menced in 1866, on a nte of 30 acres, between the present College and the Crystal
Palace. The centre of the building is a large hall for dining and for the general
gathering of the boys ; there are a doister between the two schools, and official red-
denccs for the masters. There is a Speech-day for classic and dramatic orations ; and
the performance of a play, preference being given to Shakspeare's,
Greshaic College, Basinghall-street, a handsome stone edifice, designed by George
Smith, was opened Nov. 2, 1843, for the Gresham Lectures. It is in the enriched
Soman style, and has a Corinthian entrance-portico. The interior contains a largo
library, and professors' rooms; and on the first floor a lecture-room, or theatre, to hold
500 persons. The building cost upwards of 7000Z. The Lectures, on Astronomy,
Physic, Law, Divinity, Rhetoric, Geometry, and Music, are here read to the public
gratis, during "Term Time," daily, except Sundays; in Latin, at 12 noon; English, at
COLLEGES. 275
1 P jf. ; the Geometiy and Music Lectures at 7 P.i£. Gresham College was founded
by Sir Thomas Qresbam, who, in 1576, gave his mansion-house and the rents arising
from the Boyal Exchange, which, on the death of Lady Gresham, in 1597, were vested
in the Corporation of London and the Mercers' Company, who were conjointly to
nominate seven professors, to lecture successively, one on each day of the week ; their
salaries being 502. per annum : a more liberal remuneration than Henry YIII. had
appointed for the B^us Professors of Divinity at Oxford and Cambridge, and equiva-
lent to 400^. or 500^ at the present day. The Lectures commenced June 1597, in
Gresham's nAnsion, which, with almshouses and gardens, extended from Bishopsgate-
street westward into Broad-street. Here the Boyal Sodety originated in 1645, and
met (with interruptions) until 1710. The buildings were then neglected, and in 1768
were taken down, and the Excise Office built upon their site ; the reading of the
Lectures was then removed to a room on the south-east side of the Royal Exchange;
the lectnrera* salaries being raised to 1002. each, in place of the lodging they had in
the <dd Cdlege^ of which there is a view, by V ertue, in Ward's Lines of the Gresham
Professors^ 1740.* On the rebuilding of the Royal Exchange, the Gresham Committee
provided a separate edifice for the College, as above. Above its entrance portico are
sculptured the following arms :
Gtf of London. Qmkam, Mereen* Company,
Arf?. a CTOU, and in Arg. a ohev. erm. Ga. a demi-virgin oouped Xmovr the shoQlden, iwa-
tbe dexter chief a bitw. three mul- log from cloads, all ppr. veiled or crowned with
sword erect gn. lata pierced sa. an eastern coronet of the last, her hair dishevelled,
all within a bordare neboly arg.
HxBAZDS' CoLLsas (College of Arms), College of Advocates, and Doctors of Law,
east ride of Benefs hill, Doctors' Commons, was built in 1683, from the derign of Sir
Christopher Wren, upon the site of the former College (Derby House), destroyed in
the Great Fire; but all the valuable documents and books were fortunately saved. Sir
Wniiam Dugdale, then Korroy King-of-Arms, built the north-west corner at his own
expense : the hollow arch of the gateway on Benef s-hill is a curiority. On the north
ride of the court-yard is the grand hall, in which the Court of Chivalry was formerly
held. On the right is the old library, opening into a fire-proof record-room, built in
1844 : to contain the MS. collection of Heralds' visitations, records of g^rants of arms,
royal licenses, official funeral certificates, and public ceremonials. Here, too, were several
portraits^ including those of Sir Gilb^t Dethick, Garter King-at-Arms ; John Anstis,
Garter; Peter Le Neve, Norroy ; John Talbot, Earl of Shrewsbury, &c In the grand
ball was the judicial seat of the Earl Marshal ; " but the chair is empty, and the sword
unswayed." On the south ride of the quadrangle is a paved terrace, on the wall of
which are two escuteheons; one bearing the arms (and legs) of Man, and the other the
Eagle's daw — ^both ensigns of the house of Stanley, and denoting the rite of old Derby
Boose, though they are not andent.
The College of Anna received the first charter of incorporation from lUchard III., who gave them
for the reridenoe and assembling of the Heralds, Ponltenev's Inn, " a righte fayre and stately house," in
Coldharbonr. Thev were dispossessed of tliis property by Henry yil., when ther removed to the
Hospital of Onr LaaT oi Bomioevri, at Charinjr Cross, where now stands Northomberland Hoase. They
next reAxwed to Derbv or Stanley House, on St. Benet's-hilL granted by Queen Mary, July 18, 1666, to
Sir Gilbert Dethiok, Garter KingKif-Arms, and to the other Heralds and Farsuivants at Arms, and their
•accessors. ^le serrioe of the Forsnivant^ and of the Herrids, and of the whole College, is used in
man>halUng and ordering Coronations, Marriages, Christenings, Funerals, Interviews, Feasts of Kings
and Princes, Cavalcades, Shows, Justs, Tournaments, Combats, before the Constable and Marshal, £&,
Also they tMC care of the Coats of Arms, and of the Genealogies of the Nobility and Gentrr. Anciently,
the Kings-at-Arma were solemnly crowned before the sovereign, and took an oath : dunng whi<^ the
Earl Marshal ponied a bowl of wme on his head, put on him a richly embroidered velvet Cmit of Arms,
a Collar of Emcs, a jewri and gold chain, and a crown of gold.— Chamberlayne's Magnm Britannw
JTotUia, 1728.
The College has, rince 1622, consisted of thirteen officers : — Kings: Garter, Principal ;
Clarencieux; Norroy. Heralds: Lancaster, Somerset, Richmond, Windsor, York,
Chester. JPnrsuivaiUs : Bonge Croix, Blue Mantle, Porteullis, Blue Dragon. These
hold their places by appointment of the Duke of Norfolk, as Hereditary Earl Marshal.
Few rulers have been insensible to the pageantry of arms : even the royalty-hating
• In Tertoe^s print, at the entrance archway are two figures, designed for Dr. Woodward and Dr.
Head, Profeaaors, who having quarrelled and drawn swords. Mead obtained the advantage, and com-
minded Woodward to beg hislife : " Ko^ Doctor, that I will not, till I am ypnr patient," was the witty
reply; but he yielded, and Is hero shewn tendering his sword to Mead.
T 2
276 CURIOSITIES OF LONDON.
Cromwell appointed his Eing-at-Arms ; and the heraldic expenses of his funeral were
between 400/. and 500/. The Court of Chivalry was nearly as oppressive as the
detestable Star Chamber; for we read of its imprisoning and ruining a merchant*
dtizen for calling a swan a goose ; and fining Sir George Markham 10,000/. for saying,
after he had horse-whipped the saucy huntsman of Lord Darcy, that if his master
justified his insolence, he woi\ld horse-whip him also. The severest punishment of the
Court IB the degradation from the honour of knightliood, of which only three instances
are recorded in three centuries: this consisted in breaking and defacing the knight's
sword and gilt spurs, and pronouncing him " an infamous errant knave." In our time,
the banner of a Knight of the Bath has been pulled down by the heralds^ and kicked
out of Henry YII.'s Chapel at Westminster. The herald's visitations were liable to
strange abuses, and ceased with the seventeenth century. Another trusty service of the
Officers-at-Arms is the bearing of letters and messages to sovereign princes and persons
in authority ; these officers were the " Chivalers of Armds," or Knights Biders, the
original King's Messengers ; and adjoining the College is Knight-Rider-street.
Among the CwiotiHet of the College are, the Warwick Roll, with figures of all the
£arlB of Warwick from the Conquest to Richard III. ; a Tournament Roll of Henry
VIII.'s time; a sword, dagger, and turkois ring, said to have belonged to James IV.
of Scotland, who fell at Flodden-field ; portrait of the warrior Talbot, Earl of Shrews-
bury, from his tomb in Old St. Paul's; pedig^ree of the Saxon kings from Adam, with
beautiful pen-and-ink illustrations (temp. Henry YIII.) ; and a volume in the hand-
writing of " the learned Camden," created Clarencienx in 1597. Among the other
officers of note were Sir William Dugdale, Garter ; Elias Ashmole, Windsor Herald,
who wrote the History of the Order of the Garter; John Anstis, Garter; Francis
Sandford, Lancaster Herald, who wrote an excellent Genealogical History of England ;
Sir John Vanbrugh, who was made .Clareucieux as a compliment for building Castle
Howard, but sold the situation for 2000/.; Francis Grose, Richmond Herald; and
Edmund Lodge, Lancaster Herald. (See the excellent paper by J. R. Planch^ Somerset
Herald, in Knight* s London, voL vi.)
A Orant qfArm$ it thtu obtained : The applicant employs any member he pleases of the Heralds*
OfiBce, and through him, pre«ent8 a memorial to the Earl Marshal, setting forth that he the memorialist
is not entitled to arms, or cannot prove his right to such ; and praying that his Grace will inae his
warrant to the King of Arms authorizing them to gnxxt and confirm to him due and proper armorial
ensigns, to be borne according to the laws or heralcuy by him and his descendants. This memorial is
presented, and a warrant is IbsumI by the Earl Marshal, under which a patent is made outt eihibiting
m the comer a painting of the armorial ensigns granted, and descri^g in official terms the proceed-
ings that have taken place, and the correct blazon of the arms. This pat^tia registered in the books of
the Heralds' CdHege, and receives the signatures of the Garter and of one the Provincial Kings of Arms.
Thus an " Armiger " is made. The fees on a Grant of Arms amount to seventy-five guineas ; an ordi-
nary search of the records Is 5f . ; a general search, one guinea. Arms thst are not held under a Grant
must descend to the bearer from an ancestor recorded in the Herald's visitations. No prescription,
however long, will confer a right to a coat-armour. If the grantee be resident in any place north of the
Trent, his patent is sisned by Garter and Iforrdy Kings of Arms ; if he reside nuth of that river the
signatares are those of Garter and Clarendeuz Kings of Arms.
The arrangement of the College consists of several houses occupied by the Doctors of
Law, with the Courts, noble Dining-room and Library, large open quadrangular area
and garden ; exclusive of which the number of rooms is 140. The total area is 34^138
feet, or more than three-quarters of an acre. The whole of the buildings are to
be taken down in forming the new street from Blackfriars Bridge to the Mansion
House.
Knro'B College aud School, Somerset House, extend from the principal entrance
in the Strand to the east wing of the river-front, designed by Sir William Chambers,
bnt left unfinished by him : its completion by the College being one of the conditions
of the grant of the site : here resided the Principal and Professors. The College
fkfade, designed by Sir Robert Smirke, R.A., is 304 feet in length, and consists of a
centre, decorated with Corinthian columns and pilasters ; and two wings with pilasters,
npon a basement of piers supporting arches, which extend the whole length of the
building. On the interior ground-floor are the theatres or lecture-rooms, and the
hall, with two grand staircases, which ascend to the Museum and Library ; the Chapel
occupying the centre. Over the lofty entrance-arch in the Strand are the arms of the
College : motto^ *'Sancte et aapienter." (JSee Museums.)
COLLEGES. 277
idmiiaioD to the latter is from 9 to 16 ; and each proprietor can nominate two pupils to the School, or
St. Ma&k's T&AiKnro Collegb, Chelsea, was established for training school-
masters fbr the National Society, The College, fronting King^s-road, is of Italian
design; the Chapel, facing the Fnlham-road, is Byzantine; to the west is an
octagonal Pjracti&ing School ; and the grounds contain about fifteen acres. The term
of training is three years : it comprises, with general education, the industrial system,
u the bunness of male senrants in the house, managing the farm produce, and g^arden-
ing. Still, the reli^ous service of the Chapel is, as it were, the keystone of the
ijstem of the College. {See Chapels, p. 214.) There are also other training insti-
tutions connected with the National Society.**
New College, St. John's Wood, was commenced building in 1850, when the first
stone was laid. May 11, by the Bev. Dr. John Pye Smith, known as a divine, and as a
man of sdence from his work on Scripture and Geology. The building was completed
in 1851, and opened October 8. It has been erected by the Independent Dissenters
for the education of their ministers, and is founded on the union of Homerton Old
College and Coward and Highbury Colleges. The classes are divided into two faculties.
Arts and Theology ; the former open to lay students, and having chairs of Latin and
Greek, mathematics, moral and mental philosophy, and natural history. The building,
of Bath stone, designed by Emmett, in the Tudor (Henry YII.) style, is situated about
A mile and a half north of Regent's>park, between the Finchley-road and Bellsize-lane.
The frontage b 270 feet, having a central tower 80 feet high. The interior dressings are
of Caen stone, and the fittings of oak ; some of the ceilings axe of wrought wood-work,
and the windows of elaborate beau^. The main building contains lecture-room,
coancil-room, laboratory, museum, and students' day-rooms ; at the north end is the
I^ndpal's residence, and at the south a library of more than 20,000 volumes.
Phtbigl^ks, College oe, was founded in 1518, by Linacre, physician to Henry YIL
and VIII^ who lived in Knight-Rider-street, and there received his friends, Erasmus,
lAtimer, and Sir Thomas More. Linacre was the first President of the CoUege, and
the members met at his house, which he bequeathed to them ; the estate is still the
property of the College. Thence they removed to a house in Amen Corner, where
^^ATvey lectured on his great discovery, and built in the College garden a Museum,
^H^on the site of the present Stationers' Hall. The old College and Museum being
destroyed in the Great Fire, the members met for a time at the President's house, until
Wren built for them a College, in Warwick-lane, upon part of the mte of the mannon
of the famed Earls of Warwick ; the new College was commenced in 1674^ but not
oompleted until 1689. It had an octangular porch of entrance, 40 feet in diameter,
the most striking portion of Wren's design. The interior, above the porch, formed
tbe lecture-room, which was light, and very lofty, being open upwards to the roof
of the edifice. It was opened in 1689 : the entrance-porch was surmounted by a dome^
» described by Garth in his satire on the quarrel between the Apothecaries' Company
•nd the College :
" Not far from that most celebrated placet
Where anny Jastice shews her awiUl face^
WherelitUe villains must submit to fkte,
That great ones may epjoy the world in state,
There stands a Dome, majestic to the sight.
And sumptuous arches bear its oral height :
A golden globe, piac'd high with artAil skill.
Seems to the distant sight— a gilded pill."— T^ Dhpentaty.
"The theatre was amphitheatrical in plan, and on.e of the best that can be imagined
* Kneller Hall (between Hounilow and Twickenham) was formerly in the possession of Sir Godfirej
lonelier, who palled down the manor-house and erected a new house on the same site, as inscribed upon
s stone: '* The building of this houae was begun by Sir Godfrey Kneller, Bart., a.d. 1709." It had a
■xnnptooasly painted staircase, by Kneller's own hand. The hall was almost wholly taken down, and
t Training school was built upon Its site.
t Newgate.
279 CURIOSITIES OF LONDON,
for Beeing, hearing, and the due classification of the stndents, and for the display of
anatomioil demonstrations or philosophical experiments upon a tahle in the centre of
the arena, of any building of its size in eiistenoe." {Elmet.) This portion was latterly
occupied as a meat-market, and the other College buildings by braziers and brass-
founders. The buildings comprised a lofty hall, with a magnificent staircase ; a dining-
room, with a ceiling elaborately enriched with fohage and flowers in stucco, and carved
oak chimney-piece and gallery. On the north and south were the residences of the
College officers ; on the west, the principal front, consisting of two stories, the lower
decorated with Ionic pillars, the upper by Corinthian and by a pediment in the centre
at the top. Immediately beneath the pecUment was the statue of Charles II., with a
Latin inscription. On the east was the octangular side, with the gilt ball above, and
a statue of Sir John Cutler below. It appears by the College books that, in 1675, Sir
John Cutler, a near relation of Dr. Whistler, the President, was desirous of con-
tributing towards the building of the College, and a committee was appdnted to thank
him for his kind intentions. Cutler accepted their thanks, renewed lus promise, and
spedfied parts of the building of which he intended to bear the expense. In 1680,
statues in honour of the King and Sir John were voted by the members ; and nine
years afterwards, the College being then completed, it was resolved to borrow money
of Sir John Cutler to discharge the debt incurred; but the sum is not specified. It
appears, however, that in 1699 Sur John's executors made a demand on the College
for 70002., supposed to include money actually lent, money pretended to be given, but
set down as a debt in Sir John's hooks, and the interest on both. The executors,
however, accepted 20002., and dropped their claim to the other five. Thus Sir John's
promise, which he never performed, had obtained him the statue ; but the College
wisely obliterated the inscription which, in the warmth of gratitude^ had been placed
beneath the figure : —
" Omnia Catleri cedat Labor Amphitheatro."
Hence it wa^ called Cutler's Theatre, in Warwick-lane. The miser Baronet has, how-
ever, recdved a more enduring monument from the hand of Pope, in his MortU
Essay .—-
** His Grace's fitte aage CaUer could foresee.
And well (he thought) advised him, * Live like me.'
As well his Grace replied, ' Like^ou, Sir John P
That I can do, when all I have u gone.' "
The College buildings were mostly taken down in 1866; the carved oak fittings and
a celebrated stucco ceiling being preserved, with the statue of Cutler. In the garrets
of the old College were formerly dried the herbs for the use of the dispensary ; and, on
the left of the entrance portico, beneath a bell-liandle, there remained till the last, the
inscription, " Mr. Lawrence, surgeon — ^night bell," recalling the days when the house
belonged to a learned institution. We remember it leased to the Equitable Loan (or
Pbwnbroking) Company, when the " Golden Globe" was partially symbolical of its
appropriation.
The Physidans, in 1825, had emigrated westward, where Sir Robert Smirke built
for them a College ot classic design, in Pall Mall East and Trafalgar-square^ at the
cost of 30,000^. It was opened June 25, 1825, with a Latin oration by the Preddent,
Sir Henry Halford. The style is Grecian-Ionic, with an degant hexastyle Ionic por-
tico. The interior is sumptuous. In the dining-room are portraits of Dr. Harney,
the Commonwealth physician ; of Br. Freind, imprisoned in the Tower ; and of Sir
Edmund King, who bled Charles II., in a fit, without consulting the Eoyal phyddans,
and who was promised for the service lOOOi. by the Council, which was never paid.
In the oak-panelled Censors' Room is a portrait of Dr. Sydenham, by Mary Beale ; of
Linacre, surmounted by the College arms in oak, and richly-Mnblazoned shield ; of
the thoughtful Sir Thomas Browne, who wrote Religio Medici j of the good-humoured
Sir Samuel Garth, by Kneller ; and of Cardinal Wolsey and Henry VIII. (after Holbein),
and Andreas Vesalius, the Italian anatomist ; other portraits ; and a marble bust of
Sir Henry Halford. In the Library, lighted by three beautiful lanterns, is a fine por-
trait of Radcliffe, by Eneller ; and of Harvey, by Jansen. Here is a gallery filled
with cases, contdning preparations, induding some of the nerves and blood-veseels, by
COLLEGES. 279
Hairey, and used by him in his lectmres on the discovery of the circniation of the
blood. Adj<nmng is a small theatre, or lecture-room, where are hosts — of G^rge IV^
by Chantrey ; Dr. Mead, by Rouhiliac ; Dr. Sydenham, by Wilton ; Harvey, by Schee-
makers ; Dr. Baillie, by Chantrey ; Dr. Babington, by Behnes. Here also is a picture
of Honter lecturing on Anatomy before Royal Academicians (portraits), by Zoffimy ;
besides a collection of physicians' canes. The whole may be seen by the order of a
physician. Fellow of the College. The Harveian Oration (in Latin) is delivered annu-
^y by a Fellow, usoally on June 25.
In tb« Librax7 is a copy of the S(mer published at Florenco hi 1488, an immortal work for this early
period of typoffrapliy : in tiie whiteness and strength of the paper, the fineness of the character, the
elegant di^osuioa of the matter, the eiact distance between the lines, the large margin, and various
omuDicnta.
PsscxPTOBS, CoiXEGE OF (the), 28, Bloomsbury-square, a proprietary institution,
established 1847, to elevate the character of the profession of teachers, irrespective of
distinctions of sects and parties ; and to grant certificates and diplomas to candidates
duly qualified, after examination.
QrsxiT's CoixEOE, London, 67, Harley-street, was established 1848, for general
female education, and for granting to Governesses certificates of qualification. The
instruction is given in lectures by gentlemen connected with King's College, and other
Fofessors ; there are also preparatory classes and evening classes, the latter gratuitously t
the whole superintended by ladies as visitors.
SiON CoiiiiBGEy London Wall, is bmlt on the ate of the Priory of Elsinge Spital,
and consists of a college for the clergy of London, and almshouses for twenty poor
perBons!, founded 1623, by the will of Dr. Thomas White, vicar of St. Dnnstan's-in-
tbc-West ; to which one of his executors, the Rev. John Simson, rector of St. Olave'sj,
Hirt-stareet, added a library. " Here," says Defoe, *' expectants may lodge till they are
pTOTided with houses in the several parishes in which they serve cure ;" and the Fellows
of the College are the incumbents of parishes within the City and Liberties of London.
The library is their property : a third of the books was destroyed in the Great Hre,
which consumed great part of the College. The collection contains more than 50,000
^Imnes, mostly theological, among which are the Jesuits' books seized in 1679. By
the Copyright Act, 8 Anne c. 19, the library received a gratoitous copy of every pub-
lished work till 1836, when this privilege was commuted for a Treasury grant of 3632.
> year, now its chief maintenance. It is open to the clergy of tlie diocese and their
^ends, and to the public by an order from one of the Fellows ; but books are not
sUowed to be taken out, except by Fellows. Here are several pictures, including a
AMtume-portrait of Mrs. James, a dtizen's wife in the reign of William and Mary.
Sttrgbons, Rotal College of, on the sonth side of Lincoln's-mn-fields, was
^''igiiuiUy boilt by Dance, R.A., for the College, who removed here from thear Hall on
the site of the New Sessions House, Old Bailey, on their incorporation by royal charter
iQ 1800. It was almost entirely rebuilt by Barry, B.A., in 1835-37, when the stone
^t was extended from 84 to 108 feet, and a noble Ionic entablature added, with this
inscription : iEDES * CoLLBGII * CHIETBaOETK ' LONDINXNSIS ' DiPLOHATE * ReGIO *
COEPOKATI • A.D. MDCCC.
'Hie interior contiuns two Museums, a Theatre, Library, and vestibule with screens
of Ionic columns. On the staircase-landing are busts of Cheselden and Sir W. Banks.
^^ the Library are portraits of Sir Cssar Hawkins, by Hogarth ; Serjeant-Surgeon
Wiseman (Charles IL's time) ; and the cartoon of Holbein's picture of the granting of
^ne charter to the Barber-Surgeons. In the Council Room (where sits the Court of
Examiners) are Reynolds's celebrated portrait of John Hunter, and other pictures :
kust of John Hunter,\)y Flaxman ; of Cline, Sir W. Blizard, Abernethy, and George IIL
and George IV., by Chantrey; of Pott, by Hollins; and Samuel Cooper, by Butler.
The Hoteum, with Hunter's collection for its nucleus, was erected in 1836 ; and the
College has since been enlarged by adding to it the site of the Portugal-street Theatre^
{^e Copehmd's china warehouse, taken down in 1848. (See Museums.) In the
Theatre is annually delivered the Hunterian Oration (in Latin), by a Fellow of the
^Uege, on Feb. 1^, John Hunter's birthday.
280 CURIOSITIES OF LOKDON.
TJkiyebsitt Colleob, east aide of Upper Go«r6r>8tareet, was designed by Wilkiiu»
R.A. ; the first stone kid by the Dnke of Sussex, April 80, 1827 ; and the College
opened Oct. 1> 1828. It has a bold and rich central portico of twelve Corinthian
columns and a pediment, elevated on a plinth 19 feet, and approached by nnmerous
steps, arranged with fine effect. Behind the pediment is a cupola with a Lmtem ligh^
in imitation of a peripteral temple ; in the Gb-eat Hall under which are the original
models of the principal works of John Flaxman, RA., presented by Miss Denman. In
the vestibule is Flazman's restoration of the Famese Hercules; beneath the dome is
his grand life-size Michael and Satan ; and around the walls are his varioos monu-
mental and other bas-reliefs; "in all the monumental compositions there is a touch-
ing story, and the sublimity of the poetic subjects is of a quality which- the (Greeks
themselves have never excelled." — {Art Journal,) An adjoining room contains Flax-
man's Shield of Achilles, and other works.
The University building extends about 400 feet in length : in the ground-floor are
lecture-rooms, cloisters for the exercise of the pupils, two semicircular theatres, chemical
laboratory, museum of materia medica, Ac In the upper floor, on entering by the
great door of the portico, the yrhole extent of the building Lb seen. Here are the
gpreat hall, museums of natural hbtory and anatomy, two theatres, two libraries, and
rooms with naturo-philosophical apparatus. The principal library is richly decorated
in the Italian style ; here is a marble statue of Locke. The Laboratory, completed
from the plan of Prof. Donaldson, in 1845, combines all the recent improvements of
our own schools with that of Professor Liebig, at Giessen.
UDivenitr College is proprietary, and waa founded in 1828, principally aided bv Lord Broogbam, the
poet Campbell, and Dr. Birkbeck, for affording " literarr and tcientific edaeaaon at a moderate ex-
Csnae ;" bat Divinity is not taught There is a Junior School. The graduates of the University of
ondon iVom University College are ^titled Doctors of Laws, Masters of Arts, and Bachelors of I^w,
Medicine, and Art. The School of Medicine is highW distinguished ; and under the superintendonoe of
its professors has been founded University College Hospital, opposite the College, in which the medical
atndenta receive improved instruction in medicine and surgery.
Wilkins also desired the National Gallery, a far less happy work than University College, which
is unfinished : the original design comprised two additional smaller cupolas. The works seem hardly
to be Uie production of the same architect ; in the National OaUeiy the dome being as unsightly a feature
in oompoeltion as in the College it is graceful.
In the rear of the College, on the west ride of Qordon-sqnare, is UnivertUy JSall^
derigned by Prof. Donaldson, 1849, and built for 'instruction in Theology and Moral
Philosophy, which are excluded by the College. The architecture is Elizabethan-Tudor,
in red brick and stone ; the grouping of the windows is cleverly managed. In the
Great Hall the students breakfast and dine ; and the establishment is a sort of students^
club-house or model lodging-establishment.
WsBLBTAN NoBUAL COLLEGE, Horsoferry-road, Westminster (James Wilson,
architect), has been erected for the training of schoolmasters and mistresses, and the
education of the children in the locality. It is in the Late Perpendicular style, of
brick, with stone dressings; and consists of a Principal's Besidence, a quadrangular
Normal College for 100 students, with Lecture and Dining Halls ; Practising Schools,
and Masters' Houses : beyond is the Model School, in Early English style, with porch
and lancet windows : the buildings and playgrounds occupying upwards of 15 acres
with a large central octagonal tower, which, with the embattled parapets, pointed
gables, and traceried oriel-windows, forms a picturesque architectural group.
COLOSSEUM (TSITi,
THE Colosseum, npon the east side of the Regent's-park, was originally planned by
Mr. Homor, a land-surveyor; and the building was commenced for him 1824^
by Peto and Grissell, from the designs of Dedmns Burton. The chief portion is a
polygon of sixteen faces, 126 feet in diameter externally, the walls being 8 feet thick
at the ground; and the height to the glazed doom is 112 feet. Fronting the west is
an entrance portico, with six Grecian- Doric fluted columns, said to be fnll-sized models
of those of the Parthenon. The external dome is supported by a hemispherical dome,
constructed of ribs formed of thin deals in thicknesses, breaking joint and bolted
together, on the principle educed by M. Philibert de TOrme in the 14th century, and
COLOSSEUM (THE). 281
ftfttcd to be introduced here for the first time in England. The second dome also
^opportB a third, which forms a ceiling of the picture, to he presently described. The
btiUding rsBembles a miniatnre of the Pantheon, and has heen named from its colossal
iize, and not from any resemblance to the Colosseum at Rome; hut it more closely
reiembles the Boman Catholic Church at Berlin.*
Tbe building is lighted entirely hy the glazed dome, there being no side windows.
Upon the canvassed walls was painted the Panoramic View of London, completed in
IS29; for which Mr. Homor, in 1821-2, made the sketches at several feet above the
present cross of St. Paul's Cathedral (as described at p. 115). The view of the picture
wu obtiunedfrom two galleries : the ^«^ corresponds, in relation to the prospect, with
the first gallery at the sunmiit of the dome of St. Paul's ; the second with the upper
gallery of the cathedral. Upon this last gallery is placed the identical copper hall
which formerly oocapied the summit of St. Paul's ; above it is a fac-simile of the
croas • and over these is hung the small wooden cabin in which Mr. Homor made his
^w'iiigs. A small flight of stairs leads from this spot to the open parapet gallery
vhich surrounds the domed roof of the Colosseum. The commuication with the
galleries is hy spiral staircases, built on the outside of a lofty cylindrical core in the
centre of the rotunda ; within which is also the " Ascending Boom," capahle of con-
taining ten or twelve persons. This chamher is decorated in the Elizabethan style, and
hgfated through a stained-glass ceiling ; it is raised hy secret machinery to the required
elevation, or gallery, whence the company viewed the panorama. The hoisting mechanism
u a long shaft connected with a steam-engine outside the building, working a chain
^n a drum-harrel, and counterbalanced by two other chains, the ascending motion
wing almost imperceptible.
The pamting of the picture was a marvel of art. It covers upwards of 46,000
sqiiare feetj 6r more than an acre of canvas j the dome on which the sky is painted
j6 ^ feet more in diameter than the cupola of St. Paul's; and the circumference of the
tcrizon from the pomt of view is nearly 130 miles. Exceptmg the dome of St.
Pinrg Cathedral, there is no painted surface in Great Britain to compare with this in
jz^gmtude or 8hax)e, and even that offers hut a small extent in comparison. It is
inferred that the scaffolding used for constmcting St. Paul's cupola was left for Sir
•'unes ThomhiU, in painting the interior ; and his design consisted of several com-
partmeuts, each complete in itself. Not so this Panorama of London, which, as one
^^ required unity, harmony, accuracy of linear and aerial perspective ; the com-
iDenceinent and finishing of lines, colours, and forms, and their nice unity ; the per-
P<^cular canvas and concave cdling of stucco was not to he seen by, or even known
^> the spectator ; and the union of a horizontal and vertical surface, though used,
^^ not to be detected. After the sketches were completed upon 2000 sheets of
P^pcr, and the building finished, no individual could he found to paint the picture in a
SQi&aently short period, and many artists were of necesnty employed : thus, by the
^ of pUtfbrms slung hy ropes, with baskets for conveying the colours, temporary
"ndges, and other ing^ous contrivances, the painting was executed, hut in the
J^^^^^^ style, taste, and notion of each artist; to reconcile which, or hring them to
'onn oae vast whole, was a novel, intricate, and hazardous task, which many persons
^^ed, but ineffectually. At length, Mr. E. T. Parris, possessing an accurate knowledge
^mechanics and perspective, and practical execntaon in punting, combined with great
^thnsiasm and perseverance, accomplished the labour principally with his own hands;
"Ending hi a cradle or box, suspended from cross poles or shears, and lifted as
^^, by ropes. .
^ Puiorama was viewed from a halustraded gallery, with a projecting firame
f * hi 1760, there was constructed in the Champs Elysdes, at Paris, a yaat bnilding called L0 CoIitU,
{; '^^ in hononr of the marriage of the Dauphin, afterwards Louis XVI. Here were dances, hydran-
1^. Prrotechnics, Ac ; the buildmir did not resemble the Pantheon, as ours in tbe Regent's-park, but
^Ulossemn at Rome. It contained a rotunda, saloons, and circular galleries, skirted with shops,
ry^ treUis-work apartmenta and four e<^i». In the centre of Le Cirque was a vast basin of
r^^iWith fountains ; beyond which fireworks were disnlayed. The whole edifice was completely
tit? *^^ green trellis-work ; the entire space occupied by the buildings, courts, and gardens, was
'iieen acres : and the cost was two and a half millions of money. There were prize exhibitions of pic-
.^'^i.tttd Mr. Homor prelected similar displays at the Colosseum, but the idea was not taken up by
^c British artists. In 1778, the Parisian building was dosed, and two years afterwards was taken
''^^^ It la usntioned t^ Dr. Johnson, in his Tour, in 1776.
282 CUBI08ITIJE8 OF LONDON.
beneath it» in exact imitation of the outer dome of St. Fftol's Cathedra], the perBpectiva
and light and shade of the campanile towers in the western front being admirably
managed. The spectator was recommended to take four distinct stations in the gallery,
and then inspect in succession the views towards the north, east, south, and west;
altogether representing the Metropolis of 1821, the date of the sketches.
3V Iforth cominlses Newnte-market the old College of PhyaloUuis. Chrtef • Hospital (before iha
nbnildhiff of the Great Hall), St. Bartholomew's Hospital, and Smithfield Market; and the New
General Poet-Office, then buildingr. These are the objects near the foreground: bejond them are
Clerkenwell, the Charterhoose, and the lines of Goswell-street. St. John-street, Pentonville, lalington,
and Hoxton. In the next, or third distanoe, are Primroae-hUI, Chalk Farm, Hampetead, and a con-
tinued line of wooded hills to Highgate, where are the bold Archway and the line of the Great North
Boad from Islington; whilst Stamford-hill, MusweU-hill, part of Epping Forest, and portions of Essex,
Hertfordshire, and Middlesex bomd the horiion.
J%* Ba$t displays a snocession of otyects all differing from the former Tiew in efflsct, oharacter, and
associations, whilst Uie north exhibits the rostie scenery of the environs of London, the east pre-
sents us wiUi the Thames, and its massive warehouses and spadoos doeks; the one a soene of rural
oniet, the other a focus of commercial activity. In the foreground is St. Panl's School-hovue : whilst
tne lines of Cheapside, Comhill, Leadenhall-street, and Whitechapel carry the eye through the very
heart of the City, and uience to Bow, Stratford, and a fine tract of woodlands, in Essex. Oa. the right
and left of tiiis One are the towers and steeples of Bow Church, St. Mary Woohioth; St. Michael, Com-
hill: St Ethelburga, Bishopsgate, and others of subordinate height; the Bank, Maasion-hoase, Boyal
Exchange (since destroyed dv fire). East India House, and several of the Comnmies* Halls. Another
Ihie, nearly parallel, but a little to tiie east, extends through Watling^treet (tne old Bomaa toad) to
Cannon-street, Tower-street, and the prison, palaoe, fortress, and museum— the Tower. The eoorae of
the Thames, with its vessels and wilderness of masts, tlie docks and warehouses on its banks : the palace-
hospital of Greenwich and the beautifhl country beyond it» oontrasted with the levels of the Essex bank-
axe all defined in this direction.
Southward, the eye traces the undulating line of the Surrey hills in the distanoe; and in the fore-
part of the picture the Thames, with its countless craft, among which are civic barges and steamers,
oharacteristic of ancient and modem London. Here also are shown old London-bridge, and Soathwaiic,
BlackfHars. Waterloo, Westminster, and Yauxhall Bridges, whilst the river-banks are crowded with
interesting structures, among which are the old Houses of Parliament.
2%« Tratent view presents a new and different series of objects. First, in eflbct, in beauty of exe-
cution and imposing oharacter, are the two compani^ the pediment, and the roof of the western end,
oi St. Paul's CathedraL The painting here is masterly and magical ; it so deceives the ^e and the
imagination, that the spectator can scarcely believe these towers to be depicted on the same canras and
the same surface as the whole line of objects fix>m Ludgate Hill to St. James's-Park. This view to the
west embraces the lone lines of Ludgate-hill, Fleet-street, and the Strand, Piccadilly, &c. ; Holbom-hill
and Oxford-street^ witn the Inns of Court; Westminster; numerous churches and public buildings^
right and left; and Hyde-park, Kensington-gardens, and a long stretch of flat oountoy to Windsor.—
SriefAeeoHni, by John Britton, F.SJL, 1829.
A staircase leads to the upper gallery, whenoe the spectator again commanded the
whole pictore in a sort of hird's-eye view. Another flight of stun communicates
with the room containing the copper hall and fac-simile c^oss of St. Paul's. A few
more steps conduct to the outer g^ery at the summit ; where, in fine weather, the
spectator might compare the colouring, perspective, and effects of naiCixre with those
of art within.
The Pftnorama wbb first exhihited in the spring of 1829. It was almost repainted
by Mr. Parris in 1845 ; when also a Panorama of London by Night, essentially the
nme as the day view, was exhibited in front of the latter, and had to be erected and
illuminated every evening : the moonlight effect upon the rippling river ; the floating,
fleecy clouds and twinkling stars; the lights upon the bridges, in the shops, and in the
open markets, formed a rare triumph of artistic illusion. In May, 1848, a moonlight
Panorama of Paris, of the same dimensionB as the night view of London, was painted
by Danson, and was very attractive in illustration of the localities of the recent
Revolution. In 1850, both views gave way to a Panorama of the Lake of Thun, in
Switzerland, piunted in tempera by Danson and Son ; and in 1851, the Panorama of
London was reproduced as a more appropriate sight fbr visitors during the International
Exhibition season.
The Picture, however, was but one of the many features of the Colosseum. The
basement of the Eotunda has a superb Ionic colonnade, as a sculpture-gallery, named
the Glyptotbeca : the columns and entablature are richly gilt; and the frieze, nearly
800 feet in circumference, is adorned with bas-reliefe from the Panthenaic friezes of
the Parthenon, exquisitely modelled by Henning ; the ribbed roof being filled with
embossed glass.
Southward and eastward of the Rotunda are large Conservatories, a Swiss chalet,
and mountain scenery interspersed with real water: these were executed by Mr.
Homor, whose enthusiasm led him to project a tunnel beneath the RegentVpark-
COLUMNS. 283
nad, and to anticipate a grant from the opponte endosnre to be added to the
Ciosseom gTtmnds. But the ingenious projector failed : the property piiod into
'jx Jumds of trustees ; after which it lost much of its status as a pbioe of pnUie
ansement; bat on May 11, 1848, it was booght for 23,000 guineas by Mr. David
Mcntagne, who altogether letriered and elerated the artistic character of the
aUbliihment.
T^ Cokeseiun, as altered, with the exception of the Fsnorama, was principally
ctKoted in 1846, from the designs of the late Mr. W. Bradwell, formerly chief
saebinist of Covent Garden Theatre. The eastern entrance, in Albany-street, was
tbi added, with an arched corridor in the style of the Vatican, and leading to the
Gljptotheca, the Arabesque Conservatories, and the Gothic Aviary, the exterior
P^^OKiude, with its model mins of the Temple of Vesta and Arch of Titus, the Temple
(^Theseoa, and golden pinnacles and eastern domes, — a chaos of classic relics of the
atiqoe worid. A romantic pass leads to the chalet, or Swiss Cottage, originally
"SfigQed Ij P. F. Robinson : the roof, walls, and projecting fireplace are fimcifnlly
cored; and ^ bay-window looks upon a mass of rock-scenery, a mountain-torrent
&d hke,— a model picture of the sublime. In another direction lies a large model of
'•^ Stalactite Cavern at Adebberg, in Camiola; constructed by Bradwell and Telbin.
At Cbristmaa, 1848, was added a superb theatre, with a picturesque rustic armouiy as
» vite-room. The spectatory, designed and erected by Bradwell, resembles the vesti-
^ of a regal mansion fitted up for the performance of a masque : it is decorated with
coioaal Sienna colummi, and copies of three of Raphael's cartoons in the Vatican (School
(^Athena, and Constantino and the Pope), by Homer, of Rathbone-place; the ceilings
^ gorgeoDsly punted with allegorical groups ; and upon the frt>nts of ^e boxes is a
Biitbanalian procession, in richly-gilt relief^ Upon the stage passed the Cydorama of
^bon, depicting in ten scenes the terrific spectacle of the great earthquake of 1755 —
U DpliftiDg sea and overtopping city, and all the frightful devastation of flood and fire ;
^^^^panied by characteristic performances upon Bevington's Apollonioon. The scenes
^^ted by Danson, in the manner of Loutherboui^'s £idophosicon, which not only
^tidpated, but in part surpassed, our present dioramas. The entire exhibition has
*« teen dosed.
1& Haich, 1855, the Colosseum, with the Cydorama, were put up to auction by the
4esss. Wiiistanley. It was then stated that the Colosseum was erected at a cost of
^^Xil. for Mr. Thomas Homor, who held a lease of it direct from the Crown, at a
^^^^ rent of 262Z. 18«. lor a period of ninety-nine years, sixty-nine of which were
^^'^^ntd on the 10th of October, 1854. He subsequently expended above 100,000^
^ cuTy oot the objects for whic^ it was intended, by decorating the interior, pur-
^^ pictures, &c. In August, 1836, the lease was sold to Messrs. Braham and
^ Mr. Braham laid out about 50,000Z. on the building, which in a few years
r^^^^i^ became the property of Mr. Turner, who added Uie Cydorama, which cost
^'i0002,to the establishment, with many decorations, at several thousand pounds'
^^; so that the entire edifice has cost above 200,0002. The sum of 20,0002. was
'"tt. but the property was not sold.
COLUMNS.
J^HiSON COLUMN (the), sooth side of Trafiilgar-square, was erected between
1839 and 1852, by pubUc subscription and the aid of the Government. It was
^gited by W. Railton, and is of the exact proportion of a column of the Corinthian
^ple of Mars Ultor at Rome : Mr. Railton choosing the Corinthian order frY)m ita
r% tbe most lofty and elegant in its proportions, and having never been used in
^^^d for this purpose ; whilst it is in keeping with the surrounding buildings, and
!^ more than any other spedes of monument to bring the entire scene into general
^nnony, without destroying the effect of any portion of it The foundation rests upon
^leet layer of concrete in a compact stratum of clay, about twelve feet below the
^^ement; upon which is the frustrum of a brick-work pyramid, 48 feet square at the
^ And 13 feet high, upon which the superstructure commences with the graduated
'?lobate of the pedestal, the first step of which is 33 feet 4 inches wide. From this
284 CURIOSITIES OF LONDON,
point to the foot of the statue, the work is of solid granite, in large blocks admirabl
dressed ; and in the shaft they are so well connected as to give the fitbric almost tb
cohesion of a monolith. The granite was brought from Foggin Tor, on the coast <
Devon ; and was selected for its equable particles and intimate distribution of mia
feldtspar, and quartz. The shaft (lower diameter 10 feet) is fluted throughout, it
base being richly ornamented — ^the lower torus with a cable, the upper with oak-leave
The pedestal is nused upon a flight of steps ; and at the angles are massive cippi, c
blocks, intended to receive four recumbent African lions. The capital is of bronn
and was cast from old ordnance in the Arsenal foundry at Woolwich, from foil-size
models carefully prepared by C. H. Smith. " The foliage is connected to the bell of tl
cap by three large belts of metal lying in grooves, and rendering it needless to fix ping
into the work, with the concomitant risk of damage from the galvanic action of metals.
(Q. Ghdwin, jun,, FM,S.) One of the lower tiers of leaves weighs aboat 900 Ih
Upon a circular pedestal on the abacus is a colossal statue of Nekon, with a coiled cabl
on bis left; E. H. fiaily, R.A., sculptor. The figure is of Cragleith stone, in thre
massive blocks, presented by the Duke of Bucdeuch; the largest block weighinj
upwards of 30 tons. The statue measures 17 feet from its plinth to the top of the hat
it was raised on Xov. 3 and 4, 1843; and on Oct. 23 previous, fourteen person
partook of a dinner on the abacus of the Column.
The BcaflToIding used in ooDBtrncting this Column was a novelty of mechantcal skill. Instead of tb
usual forest of small round poles, there were five grand uprights or standards on the east and west sidee
in six stages or stories, marked by horizontid beams and euros, at nearly equal intervals, the bue beini
greatly extended, and the sides strengthened by diagonal and raking braces. By means of a powerfb
engine moving on a railway, and a travelling platform, blooks of stone from six to ten tons weight, were
at a rate of progression scarcely more perceptible than the motion of a dock-weight (being only thirt
feet in the hour), raised to a great eleration, and set down with less muscular exertion than would b
expended on a lamp-post ; one mason thus setting as much work in one day as was done in three dayi
by the old system, even without the aid of six labourers, who are now dispensed with. The timber use<
in erecUng this scaffold was 7700 cubic feet^ and its cost was 2401. for labour in erecting.
The pedestal has on its four ndes the following bronze reliefe :
NoHk (fiidnff the National Gallery), BatOe qf ike NiU: designed by W. F. Woodington. Nclfion
having received a severe wound in the head, was caught by Captain Berrv in his amas, as he w&!
falling, and carried into the cockpit; the surgeon is quitting a wounded sailor that he may instontlj
attend the Admiral. '* No," said Nelson ; *' I will take my turn with my brsve fellows." Some of the
parts project 16 inehes, and the figures Mre 8 feet high : the casting weighs 2 tons 16 cwt. 2 qrs.; and
the metal is three-eighths of an inch thick.
Souik (facing Whitehall), Death qfNeUon ai Treifal$ar: designed by C. E. Caiew. Nelson is beiofl
carried flrom the quarter-deck to the cockpdt by a muine and two seamen. " Well, l^rdy," sud Nelson
to his captain, ** tney have done for me at last." " I hope not," was the reply. '* Yes; th^ have shot
me through the backbone." At the back of the centre group is the surgeon. To the left are three
sailors tightening some of the ship's cordage ; another kneeU, holding a handspike and leaning on a
gun, arrested by the conversation between the dving hero and Captain Hardy, in the front, Ijiog on
the deck, are an officer and marines, who have fUlen to rise no more. Behind stand two mvines and
a negro sailor. One of the former has detected the marksman by whose shot Nelson fell, and is point-
ing him out to his companion. The latter has raised his musket, and has evidently covered his mark:
whilst the black, who stands just before the two marines, is grasping his firelock. The figures are of
life-sise; the casting weighs about five tons. Beneath are Nelson's memorable words, ** England ex*
pects every man will do his duty."
Eatt (fiftcing the Strand), Bombardment of Copenkaaen : designed by the late Mr. Temouth. Velaan
Is sealing, on the end of a gun, his despatch, to send oy the flag of truce ; a group of officers suTToand
him, and a sailor holds a caudle and lantern : in the foreground are wounded groups ; and in the
distance are a church and city (Copenhagen) in flames.
West (facing Pall Mall), SaUle of 81. Vincent : commenced by Watson snd finished by Woodington.
Nelson, on braird the San Josef, is receiving from the Spanish admirals their swoirds, which an o!d
Agamemnon man is putting under his arm ; in the foreground is a dying sailor clasping a broken flag-3t«ff.
A monument to Nelson was first proposed in 1805 (the year of his death), when the
Committee of the Patriotic Fund raised 1330^. Reduced 8 per Cents, which, with the
accumulated dividends, amounted in June, 1838, to 5545/. 19^. Meanwhile, in 1816,
the monument was proposed in Parliament, as "a duty which the nation ought, per-
haps, to have discliarged not less than thirty years ago." The subject, however, rested
until 1838, when a subscription was raised, Trafalgar-square chosen as the sit«, and a
column recommended hy the Duke of Wellington. In January, 1839, 118 dra^'ing^
and 41 modeha were submitted, and the first prize, 250/., awarded to Mr. llailton
for his column; in May following, a second series of designs (167) was exhibitedf
but the Committee adhered to their former choice. In 1844, the subscriptions,
20,4832. 11«. Zd,, had been expended ; and the Government undertook the comple-
* To which Nicholas, Emperor of Russia, contributed fiOOf.
COLUMNS,
285
tkjD of the monimieDt, estimated at 12,000/. additionaL The column itBelf cost
23,000/. bmlding ; the statue, capital, and reliefs, 50002. ; 2000/. architect's commis-
msm ; fbar lions haYe heen estimated at 3000/. Trafalgar-square was much objected
to as the site : in the Parliamentary examination, eight architects and sculptors were
m faroor of it, and four architects were against it. Chantrey considered Trafalgar-
sqaare to he "the most fiiYourable that could be found or imagined for any national
vork of art ; its aspect is nearly south, and sufficiently open to give the object placed
ai that identical spot all the advantage of light and shade that can be desired ; to this
say be added the advantage of a happy combination of unobtrusive buildings around :
hat to ooaoeive a national monument worthy of this magnificent site is no easy task."
Chantrey objected to a column as a monument, unless treated as a biog^phical volume,
vith the acts of the hero sculptured on the shaft, as on the columns of Trajan and
Antoninaa. Annexed are the comparative dimensions of the principal monumental
d^omns:
Height to
Date.
Clinuite.
Site.
Order.
the top of
Capital.
Diameter.
JL.1>.
Peet.
Feet.
119
Trajan . . .
Borne . .
Doric . .
116
12
163
Antoninna . .
Rome . .
Doric . .
123
13
1671
Monament . .
London .
Doric . .
172
15
1906
Napoleon . .
DnkeofYork .
Paris . .
Doric . .
116
13
1S32
London
Tuscan
111
11
1839 ,
Nelson . . .
London .
Corinthian
145-6
10-l|-ll-7i
Nelson Colomn, 146 teet 6 inches ; statae and plinth, 17 feet ; » 162 feet 6 inches.
York. Coxumn, Carlton-gardens, built 1830-33, in memory of the Duke of York
(d. 1827)* Commander-in-Chief of the army, and forty -six years a soldier; whose
<3tT3e is placed on the summit. The building fund, about 25,000^., was raised
hf sahicription, to which each individual of the service contributed one day's pay.
lite Colamn (Tuscan), designed by B. Wyatt, is of fine Aberdeenshire granite, the
birer pedestal grey, and the shaft of i-ed Peterhead ; the surface fine-axed, or not
pdish^ The abacus of the capital is enclosed with iron railing, and in its centre is
tbe pedestal for the statue. Within the pedestal and shaft is a spiral staircase of 168
steps, which, with the newel, or central pillar, and outer casing, are cut from the solid
block. The masonry throughout, by Nowell, is remarkably good. The statue, of
bronze;, by Sir Richard Westmacott, B.A., represents the Duke in the robes of the
Order of the Garter. The weight is 7 tons 800 lbs., or 16,480 lbs. ; it was raised
April 8^ 1834, between the column and the scaffolding, seven hours labour, at a cost
ef 400/. The column may be ascended from 12 to 4^ from May to Sept. 24, 6d. each
person : the view irom the gallery of the Surrey hills and western London is fine ; the
Matter showed the magnificence of Regent-street, and the skill of the architect, Nash,
in the junction of the lines by the Quadrant. On May 14, 1850, Henri Joseph
Stepban, a French musician, committed suidde by throwing himself from the gallery,
which has since been entirely enclosed with iron caging. The height of the column is
123 feet 6 inches; of the statue, 13 feet 6 inches = 137 feet; or viewed from the
bottom of the steps, at the level of St. James's Park, 166 feet : upper diameter of
sbift, 10 feet If inches ; lower diameter, 11 feet 7j^ inches. The foundation, laid in
coaereie, is pyramidal, 53 feet square at the base.
The heiffht of the balconj of the York Colamn is very nearly that of the under ride of the n-eat
tabe of the Britannia Bridge, over the Menai Straits, above high water. The entire length oi tho
bridse is 1832 feet 8 inches ; conalderebly more than that of Waterloo-plaoe, from the York Colamn to
tbe loot of the (^ladnnt.— IVoeM^ii^f if tlU Society ofArtt, 1861.
Dr. Waagen ooodemns this monament aa a bad mutation of Tn(jan'i Colomn, very mean and poor
fai appearance, with a naked ihaft and without an entasis : whereas the bas-relieA on the sbait of
Trajan's JPIIlar give it, at least, the unpresaion of a lavish profusion of art Besides, the statue on the
TcM'k Colamn, though aa oolossal aa the size of the base will allow, appears little and pupnet-like com-
pared with tbe oolomn; and the featores and expression of the ooontenanoe seem wholly lost to the
ipeetatoir.
See also Hovitmikt, Thx.
286 CUBI08ITIE8 OF LONDON.
COMMON COUNCIL.
rpHE oozufcitntion of the Corporation of London presents a remote and Ulaflory re-
-L semblance to the constitution of the State. There are the Lord Mayor, the c5ourt
of Aldermen, and the Goort of Common CounciL Strictly speaking, the Conrt of
Common Council includes the Chief Magistrate and the Aldermen; but in ordinary
hmgpiage it is understood to mean the Commons of the City, being somewhat like the
House of Commons : the Court of Aldermen bearing some analogy to the House of
liOrds : and the Lord Mayor to the Soverdg^. — Lord Brougham^ 1843.
The two corporate assemblies can be traced back to a veiy distant period, and there
are records of disputes between the two Courts six centuries ago. In the reigns of
Edward I. and II., a body analogous to the Common Conndl was formed by the repre-
sentatives from the different Wards of the City. But the Common Council appears
to have been first constituted in its present form only in the reign of Richard XL, by a
civic ordinance ; wbiUt in an Act of Parliament of the previous reign (28 Edw. III.
c 10), the Mayor, Sheriff, and Aldermen are invested with the redress and correction
of errors, &o., in the City of London, for default of good government.
Altogether there tie 26 Wazds, bat the oastom of holding an electtoD in each was not oiiginaUy the
mode of repreeentatioii, though it is laid to have been coatomaty for nearly five oentnries. Before that
period the election of the Goounon Council rested with the trades, or guilds, and the whole body of
liverymen used to assemble in Guildhall yearly to send del^ates there. It is said there are ancient
records in the Corporation Library which show that those meetings were commonly so turbulent, that
in 1386» early in the reign of Richard II.. the plan of voting by waurds was tried as an experiment, and
has ever since obtained without interruption. Still the trades, to some extent, continued to be represented
as such in the Court of Common Conndl, as the names of many of the Wards yet prove, as in the cases of
Gandlewick, Cordwainer and Vintiy Wards, it being a usage for divers trades ana crafts to be carried on
in fixed localities; but now, as for many ages, it is a settled rule for the Lord Mayor to issue a precept
directing the election of Counoilmen in the various Wards on St. Thomas's Dav, December 21, and the
ceremony of election takes place before the Alderman of each Ward, who inTariably wears his robes of office
on.the occasion ; and, if he has been chief magistrate, his gold chain and badse. Of all the several 26
members of the Court of Aldermen, the only one without a constituent^, or with but a small one, if any
at all, sits for the Ward of Bri(^ so called after London-bridge, of which it is chiefly, if not solely,
composed. In the time of old London-bridge, when there were many inhabited houses on that structare,
the Alderman of the Ward represented an actual community of citizens, though small in comparison ;
now it is not so, though the custom of its sending a delegate to the Conrt of Aldermen is maintained.
The City laws acainst foreigners appear to have been formerly very stringent. An order of Common
Council, 1606, enjoins a penalty of U. per day on any foreigner or stranger, not free, keeping a retail
shop in the City or liberty ; and if any iVeeman employs a foreigner to work for him in the City or
liberty, he forfeits 61. per day. By stat. 21 Hen. VIII., a stranger, artificer in London, Ac, shall not
keep above two stranger servants, but he may have as many English servants and apprentices as he can
get. It is an ancient custom of London, that if one stranger or foreigner buys any thing of another
stranger, it shall be forfeited to the mayor and commonalty of the City.— Vid* Jacob's CUglAberHM, 1732.
The number of members of the Common Council have been, from time to time, altered as follows :—
1273. Ist Edward I., 40 men elected from all the Wards— the original number.— 1317. 2nd Edward II., the
Commonalty elected from the following Wards : Vintry, Dread-street^ Cripplegate, Farringdon, Aldcrs-
Ste, Qneenhithe, and Coleman-etreets:72 men.— 1322. 16th Edward II., 2 men from each ward=48. —
17. 20th Edward III., 8, 6, or 4 men elected, according to the size of the Ward : 133.— 1351. 25th
Edward III., elected from the 13 Misteries=54.— 1376. 60th Edward IIL, from 47 Misteries^ise —
1383. 7th Richard II., 4 persons horn each Ward=96.— 1633. 26th Henry VIII., ComhUl Ward to
return 6 instead of 4.— 1640. Edward VI., total, 187: but there is nothing to show how the number
increased, except the 2 for ComhilL— 1639. 16th Charles I., 6 added to Farringdon Without- 1641.
17th Charles I., 1 added to Portsoken.— 1646. 21st Charles I., 4'added to Coleman-street Ward.— 1654.
6th Charles II., Cheap Ward to choose 12 members.— 1666. 8th Charles II., 4 added to Tower Wards
234.— 1736. 10th George II., 2 added to Farringdon Within; total, 236.— 1826. 7th George IV., 4 added
to Cripplegate Without ; total, 240.— 1840. 8th May. The number fixed at 206^ the present number.
From 1660 to 1676, several attempts were made by the Aldermen to limit the
choice of the Wardmote to citizens of the higher class ; bnt no permanent regulation
was the result. In 1831, a Committee reported that persons convicted of defrauding
in weights or measures, or having compounded with their creditors, or of having been
bankrupt, without paying 20;. in the pound, were ineligible as Common Councilmen.
Each Common Councilman wears a gown of Mazarine-blue silk, trimmed with
badger's ftir — a costume, probably, of the reign of Edward VI. They formerly wore
bhu^ gowns ; the change is thus alluded to in the chorus to a political song of 1766 :
'*0h, London is the town of towns ! Oh, how improved a city I
Shicd chang'd her Common Council's gowns from bUck to blue so pretty !"
They, however, discontinued wearing their gowns in Court in 1776 ; perhaps in
oonaequcnce of a Common Coundlman l«ing call^ ** a Mazarine." Nor has he escaped
the severer whipping of the satirist :
CONDUITS. 287
*' The di— A Ckimmon-Conncilmaa br place.
Ten thoOBand mighty nothings in hu &oe.
Bv sitnation, as by nature, grea^
with wise precision parcels oat the state ;
FroTee ana disproves, affirms and then denies,
Ol^ects himself, and to himself replies ;
Wielding aloft the politician rod.
Hakes Pitt by tarns a devil anda god;
Maintains, er'n to the Texy teeth of pow'r,
The same thing right and wrong in hsif-an-honr.
Now all is well, now he sospects a plot.
And plainly proves whatever is^is not :
Fearlnllv wise, he shakes his emptj head.
And deals out empires as he deals oat thread :
His useless scales are in a comer flung.
And Europe's balance hangs upon his tongue/' — ChurekiU.
The Comt held their sittings in a Chamber on the north nde of the Guildlial], where
the Lord Mayor presides in a chair of state ; and visitors are admitted below the bar,
at which petitions, &c, are presented in doe legislative form. The entire Court were
entertained by George I. at a banquet at St. James's Palace in 1727.
CONDUITS.
SPRING water was fbrmerly conveyed to public reservoirs in the CSty by leaden pipes
irom various sources in the suburbs — viz., from Tyburn in 1286, from Higbbury
in 1438^ from Hackney in 1535, from Hampstead in 1548, and from Hoxton in 1546.
For these usefhl works the citizens were indebted to the munificence of mayors, sheriffiiy
and other individuals. Stow devotes a section of his Survey to ** ancient and present
rivers, brooks, bowers, pools, wells, and conduits of fresh water, serving the City :" he
abo g^ves a long list of benefactors to the Conduits, the prindpal of which were in
Aldgate, Leadenhall, Comhill, West Cheape, Aldermanbury, Dowgate, London WaII»
Cripplegate, Panl's-gate, Old Fish-street, Oldboume, &c In a large Map and Draw-
ing* of London and Westminster, early in the reign of Queen Elizabeth, the several
Conduits occupy central positions in tho roadways.
Batswatbb was noted for its Conduit-Heads ; and the association is preserved in
Conduit-street, T^bumia, the town built between 1839 and 1849, in the rear of Hyde
IHu'k Gardens.
CAHOVBimY. — The Priory of St. Bartholomew was supplied from Canonbury ; f or a
water-coarse is specified in the grant made to Sir Richard Bich, Knight, at the Sup-
pression, as " the water from the Conduit-head of St. Bartholomew, within the manor
of Canonbury, as enjoyed by Prior Bolton and his predecessors."
Chisapsibe. — The Ghreat Conduit stood at the east end of Cheapside, at its junction
with the Poultry ; and, says Stow, *' was the first sweete water that was conveyed by
pipes of lead under ground to this place in tho citie from Padding^n." Another Great
Conduit stood in West Cheape, at the west end of Cheapside, fiuung Foeter-hme and
Old 'Change.
Co»DTTiT-MEAi). — "New Bond- street was, in 1760, an open field, called Conduit,
mead, from one of the conduits which supplied this part of the town with water ; and
Conduit-street received its name for the same reason." {Pennant). Carew Mildmay,
who died between 1780 and 1785, told Pennant that he remembered killing a wood-
cock on the site of Conduit-street, when it was open country.
CoRirHUX.— The Conduit, "castellated in the middest" of Comhill, oppomte the
south entrance to the present Boyal Exchange, was called the Tun, from its being like
a tun standing on one end. It was a prison-house until 1401, when " it was made a
cistern for sweet water, conveyed by pipes of lead from Tibome, was from thenceforth
called the Conduit upon Comhill." {Stow.) A well, which adjoined, was then planked
o\'er, and a timber cage, pillory, and stocks, set upon it; these were removed in 1546,
the well revived, and diade a pump ; since renewed, with the following inscription :
'' On this spot a well was first made, and a House of Correction built by Henry Wallis,
ilayor of London in 1285. The well was discovered, much enlarged, and this pump
• DimsiisloDf, 6 ftet 3 Inches by 2 feet 6 inches, with Befercnoes and Historical Notes. Published
by TspereU and Innes^ 2, Winehe•te^bailding, Did Broad-stree^ 1850,
288 CUBIOSITIES OF LONDON.
erected in 1799, by the contributions of the Bank of England, East India Company, and
the neighbouring Fire Offices, together with the Bankers and Ttaders of the ward of
Comhill." Bound the head of the pump are the devices of the Fire Offices. ** The
Standard in Comhill" was a sort of Conduit, set up in 1582, by Peter Morris, who, by
an " artificial forcer," conveyed Thames water in pipes of lead over the steeple of St.
Magnus' Church, and from thence to the north-west comer of London Wall, the highest
ground of all the City, where the waste of the main-pipe rising into the Standard at
every tide, ran by four mouths, and thus served the inhabitants, and cleansed the streets
towards Bishopsgate, Aldgate, London Bridge, and Stocks Market. This Conduit
appears only to have run from 1598 to 1608 : from its site have since been measured
distances, and hence " the Standard in Comhill" on our old milestones.
Daxston and iBLnraxoir had their Conduit-heads ; and the Report of a View of them,
dated 1692, describes the entire course of this supply until it reaches the Conduit at
Aldgate. This Report mentions ** the White Conduit," fed by sundry springs, in a
field at Isling^ton, and resorted to by the Carthusian friars of the monastery upon the
site of which Sutton founded the Charterhouse, supplied also from the above conduit.
It likewise gave name to \\'hite Conduit House. (See Amuseicsnts, Tea-gardens,
p. 17.) The small stone house built over the well or conduit in 1641 was taken down
in 1832, It was, however, survived by the Old Conduit at Dalston, the remains of
which, in 1849, served as a tool-house in the nursery-g^und of Mr. Smith. The
Charter-house Conduit was rebuilt by the executors of Thomas Sutton ; it bore the
date 1641, and upon it were sculptured the arms and initials of Sutton ; no vestige
of it now remains.
FiSET-BTBXBT. — ^Another &mous Conduit stood at the south end of Shoe-lane, Fleet-
street, surmounted with automaton figures, chimes, &c.
St. Jaicbb's. — A print by Godfrey, after a drawing by Hollar (probably temp.
Charles I.), shows a stone conduit in St. James'ssqnare, on or near the spot now occu-
pied by Bacon's equestrian bronze statue of William III. : the whole of Ptdl Mall was
then clear of houses, from the village of Charing to St. James's Palace. The above
conduit is mentioned by Frauds Bacon {Workt, voL ii.) in connexion with one of his
experiments. In 1720, a basin of water, with a fountain and pleasure-boat, had taken
the place of the conduit ; into this basin were thrown the keys of Newgate Prison
during the riots of 1780.
Kenshtoton. — On the Palace-green was formerly a four-gabled Conduit, built
temp, Henry VIII. ; and a Water Tower, erected by Sir John Vanbrngh, temp. Queen
Anne ; both were very fine specimens of brickwork, and communicating by pipes with the
wells on the green, supplying the Palace with water, which was nused in the tower by
a horse and wheel. By forming the great sewer for Palace Gardens acyoining, all the
wells on the green, except one, were unexpectedly drained : the Conduit and tower
were taken down, and the Palace has since been supplied from Chelsea Water-works.
Lakb's Conduit was founded by William Lamb, sometime a G^tleman of the
Chapel to Henry VIII., dtizen and dothworker: "neere unto Holbom," says Stow,
** he founded a faire conduit and a standard, with a cocke at Holbom-bridge, to con-
veye thence the waste," in 1577.
The conduit is deicribed by Hatton. hi 1718, as *'ne&rthe fields (now Lamb's Gondoit-gtreetl,
affording plentr <tf water, clear as crystal, which is chiefly used for drinking. It belongs to St. Sepul-
chre's paruh, the fonntain-head being under a stone, marked S. S. P., in the vacant ground a little
south of Ormond-street, whence tiie water comes in a drain to this conduit; and it runs thence in lead
pipes (2000 yards Ion?) to the conduit on Snow-hill, which has the figure of a Lamb upon it^ doioting
that its water comes from Lamb's (Conduit
The sign of the Lamb public-house, at the north-east end of Lamb's Conduit-sireet, is
the effigy of a lamb cut in stone, believed to be one of the figures which stood upon
Lamb's Conduit, as a rebus on his name. When the Poundling Hospital was erected,
we learn from Hatton that the Conduit was taken down, and the water conveyed to
the east side of Red Lion-street, at the end (now Lamb's Condmt-street) ; an inscrip-
tion stating the waters to be preserved " by building an arch over the same ;" and in
1851, Mr. J. Wykeham Archer discovered, beneath a trap-door in the pavement of the
Lamb-yard, a short flight of steps, a brick vault, and the covered well ; as well as on
CONVENTS. 289
the north wall of the next yard southward, this inacriptioQ cat in wood, over a recess
now bricked up : *' Lamb's Conduit, the property of the City of London. This pump.
is erected for the benefit of the publick." The water is perfectly dear, and is slightly
astringent ; and the Mansion House is said still to derive a supply from this source.
In the garden of the house. No. SO, East-street^ Lamb's Conduit-street, are a pump and
spring ; and on the opposite wall a stone stating tins to be ** the head of the spring
LamVs Conduit Water."
Tyburn furnished nine Conduits, and with Bayswater, was viewed periodically by
the Lord Mayor on horseback, accompanied by ladies in \7ag0ns.
Strjrpe notes that on Sept. 18, 1662, ** the Lord Mavor, Aldermen, and many worshipAiI persons, rode
to the Condoit-heads to see them, acoording to the ola custom; and then they went and hnnted a hare
U'fore dinner, and killed hot ; and thenoe went to dinner at the Banqueting House at the head of the
C^ndait, where a great number were handsomely entertained by their Chamberlain. After dinner they
went to bunt the fi>x. There was a great aj for a mile, and at length the hounds killed him at the end
of St Giles's, with great hollowing and blowing of horns at his death; and thence the Lord Mayor, with
ill his company, rode through London to his place in Lombard-street." The Banqueting House was at
the end of the street now Stratford-plaoe, Oxtord-road; and when the mansion was taken down in 1737,
u£ datems beneath were arched over.
Tbe establishment of the Waterworks at London Bridge, in 1512, and the snbse-
qnent introdaction of the New River in 1618, having superseded the use of the Tyburn
water, the Corporation let the water of these Conduits on a lease for forty-three years,
for the sum of 700^ per annum.
Many of the City Conduits were destroyed in the Great Fire of 1666 ; and others
were removed in 1728, it is stated, to compel the public to have the New River water
laid on to their houses. Upon great festal occasions, the Conduits flowed with wine
instead of water : at the procession of Anne Boleyn, June 1, 1538, the Ghreat Cheap
Conduit ran with white and claret wine all the afternoon. Probably the last of these
prodigal events was in 1727, on the anniversary of the Coronalaon of Qeorge I., when
LamVg Conduit ran with wine.
Westminster Abbey has been, from a very distant period, supplied with spring-water
^m a Conduit-head at Bayswater, communicating with a Gtothic conduit, erected by
the Dean and Chapter (bearing their arms), at the lower end of the Serpentine in
Hvde Park. West of the Lodge at Hyde Park-oomer, and fadng the Knightsbridge-
road, is a square building, inclosing a tank filled from the above Conduit-head, for the
supply of Buckingham and St. James's Palaces ; the water is remarkably fine, and the
boilding bears on a tablet *' IV. 6. R., 1820," the date of its repair. The leaden
pipes pass through the Green Park, and the end of the ornamental water in St. James's
Park, at a spot denoted by a stone, and through Queen-square to the Abbey.
Westminster Palace had its Conduit. In the aose Rolls (Hen. III. 1244) the kmg
commands a payment to be made out of his treasury to Edward of Westminster, on
acconnt at *' our conduit ;" and by a singular precept of the same year is a grant to
Edward, that " from the aqueduct which the king had constructed to the Great Hall
at Westminster, he might have a pipe to his own court at Westminster, of tbe size of
a goose-quill.'' In a memorandum of works executed (£dw. II. 1307-1310), is the
following entry s^^
|"rhe Conduit of water coming into the palace, and into the King^s Mews, fbr the lUoons, which in
Tiinous places was obstructed and injured, and the nnderground pipes stolen, was completely repaired,
ud the water returned to its proper courses and issues, boih at the nalace and at the mews.''
/A beantiftil fountain, which fell in larm cascades, and on Juhueo days was made to pour forth
f^naxoa of choice wine, stood rather towards the west, and on the north side of the court. Permission
to make nse of the surplus water which flowed from this conduit was granted, on Feh. 3 (25 Hen. VI.),
to tbe parish. Under the date 1624^ the churchwardens for the time heing note, * Memm. the King's
charter for the Ckmdett at the Pales'-gate remayneth in the custody of the churchwardens.' The fountain
«as remored in the reign of King Charles II."— Walcott's We$tmin*ter. LasUy, in the very cunoua
Harldan MS, numbered 483 (Bidi. lU. 1484), we find mentioned, *' the lyteU wsta conduct."
CONVENTS.
T) ELIGIOUS Houses and Hospitals, for ages before the Reformation, occupied nearly
^^ two-thirds of the entire area of London. Independently of St. Paul's Cathedral
and Westminster Abbey, the following Friaries and Abbeys existed ahnost immediately
prior to the Reformation : —
Priari4i: Black Friars, between Ludgate and the Tliamesj Grey Friars, near old Newgate, now
tarut 8 Hospital ; Angustiuo Frlan, now Austin Friars, near Broad-street : White Friars, near Sails-
290 CURIOSITIES OF LONDON.
Imry-Bqaare; Crouched or CrosMd FrUrs, 8t Olave's, Hart-street, near Tower-bill : Carthnalan Friars,
now the Charter House ; Cistercian Friars, or New Abbey, East Smithfield ; Brethren de Sac<M), or
3m JXmmms, Old Jewry.
Frioriei : St. John's of Jemsalem, derkenweD ; Holy Trinity, or Christ Church, on the ate of
Dnke's-place, and near Aldgate ; St Bartholomew the Great* near sndthfleld ; St Maiy Orerie's, South-
wark; Dt SaTionr's, Bermondsey.
Autinsrie$.' Benedictines, or Black Nuns, Gerkenwell: St Helen% Biahopsgate^treet; St Clare's,
Uinorles ; Holy-well, between Holywell-lane and Norton-tolgate.
Cott»get,4re,s St Martln's-Ie-Grand j St Thomas of Acres, Westcheap: Whittington's College and
HoepltaC Vintry Ward ; St Michael's Collefre and Chapel, Crooked-lane; Jesus Commons, Dowsato.
MotpUaU (haTing resident Brotherhoods) : St Giles's in the Fields, near St Giles's Church; St
James's, now Bt James's Palace : Our Lady of Bounoeral, near Chuing-cross : St Mary, Savoy, Strand ;
SMng Spital, now Sion CoU^;e; Corpus Christi, in St Lawrence Pountney; St Passey. near Bevis
Marks; St Mary Axe; Trinity, without Aldgate; St. Thomas, Mercers' Chapel; St Baxtnolomew the
Less, near Smithfield : St Giles's, and Corpus Christi, without Cripplegate: St Mary of Bethlehem, on
the eastern side of Moorflelds; St Mary Spital, without Bishopsgate; St Thomas, Sonthwark; Lok
Spital, or Lazar, Kent^txeet Southwark; St Katherine's, below the Tower.
F^raUmiiiet: St NichouuLBishopsgate-street: St Fabian and St Sebastian, or the Holy Trinitj.
Aldersgate^treet; St Giles, Whitecroes-street: the Holy Trinity, Leadenhall; St Ilrsula-le^trand;
Hermitage, Nightingale-lane^ East Smithfield ; Corpus Chrifti, St Mary Spital ; the same at Mary Beth-
lehem, and St Maiy Poultry.
Thd majority of these establisbmenU disappeared at the Reformation ; hnt a glance
at the Su^erland View of London in 1543, and at Tapperell and Innes's Map (early
in the reign of Elizabeth), shows us many of these important buildings entire, and
others lying distant in the fields. Almost the only remains now traceable are around
the Abbey Chnrch at Westminster, where some of the monastic offices are tenanted as
the School ; of Grey Friars, the cloisters exist; of the Angnstine Friars, the chnrch;
of the CarUinsian Friars, the wooden gate and a few other relics ; of St. John of
Jerusalem, the gateway ; of St. Bartholomew the Great, the chnrch cloister and crypt;
of St. Mary Overie's, tjie dmrch-choir and lady-chapel; and at Bermondsey, the great
gate-honse remained nearly entire till 1807 ; of St. Helen's, Bishopsgate, the chnrch
remains; of St. Bartiiolomew's the Less, the ohnrch-tower ; and St. Katherine's
" by the Tower " disappeared in 1827. Snch are the principd Monastic Semain* in
the metropolis.
Since the relaxation of the penal laws, Roman Catholic Convents have been erected
in London and the suburbs. Of these, one of the earliest was the Convent for the
Order of the Sisters of Mercy, founded by subscription, at Dockhead, Bermondsey,
in 1838, and opened for the Sisterhood December 12, 1839; when Sister Mary, the
Lady ^ffbara Eyre, rister to Frauds the eighth Earl of Newburgh, took the vows,
with five other ladies of fortune, and liberal benefactresses to the chapel and convent.
In addition to the services of their religion, the Sisters devote themselves to the
education of poor ^Is, the visitation and comfort of the sick and afflicted, and the
protection of distressed reputable females.
The reception of a postulant into the SisterhooMd, or the "taking of the veil," is an impvessiTe cere*
moner performed in the ohapel of the convent or in the churdi aoQoining; when the whole sisterhood
walk in procession, dressed m the habit of thebr order, each bearing a lighted taper, and followed by ^e
postulants, in white dresses, and head-wreaths of white flowers and evergreens. The choir ihea. chant
''Gloriosa virginum ;" the priest invokes the prayers of the Virgin in behalf of the postulants, to each
ot whom he presents a lighted taper, <* as a corporal emblem of Inward light" The superioress and her
aaaistant then conduct the pjostiuants to the celebrant who inquires if they enter the order by their
own free will, andif itbe "their firm intention toperserere inreligiontotheendof their lives." Theseques-
tionsbebig answered satisfactorily, thepostnlauts withdraw withthesuperiores8,put off their seoolar dress,
and return wearing the sombre habit or the Order. The superioress then giru them with the cincture;
and the celebrantholds a white veil over the head of each, requesting her to accept it as "the emblem
of purity." They are subsequently habited with " the cloak of the Church ;" each of the novices sings :
** My heart hatti uttered a good word; I speak my words to the King," &c.; each novice embraces the
siqwrioress and each member of the sisterhood, and they retire as they entered, in processiatt.
COUNHILL,
APRIKCIPAL street of the City, cxtencUng irom the western end of Leadenhall-
street, crossing westward to the Mansion House. It was named '' of a corn-
market time out of mind there holden." (Stow,) Here was the " Tun" prison, built
in 1283, upon the spot now occupied by a pump ; also a castellated conduit^ and its
water '* Standard" (1628) near the junction of the street with Leadenhall-street.
Comhill has been the ^te of the Merchants' Exchange for nearly three centuries. On
the west side, adjoining the Bank of England, was St. Christopher-le-Stocks Church,
irith a lofty pinnacled tower, which escaped the Great i^ of 1666 : the church was
COBNHILL. 291
rebailt by Wren, but takea down in 1781, and its site included within the Bonk.
Aboot the same time were erected Bank-bnildings, desigpied by Sir Kobert Taylor, wedge*
like in plan, in place of a block of hooaes bnilt after the Great Fire; the former were
removed in 1844 : the end house extended to the site of the equestrian statue of the Duke
of Wellington. In excavating for the new Boyal Exchange, in 1841, was <3Uscoyered a
gravd-iat, sapposed by Mr. Tite, the architect, to have' been sunk during the earliest
Koman occupation of London ; and then to have been a pond, gradually filled with rubbish.
In it were found Boman work, stuccoed and painted ; fragments of elegant Samian ware ;
an amphora, and terra-cotta lamps, 17 feet below the surface : also pine- wood table-books
and metal styles, sandals and soldiers' shoes, a Boman strigil, coins of Vespasian and
Domitian, &c. ; and almost the very foot-marks of the Boman soldier. The locality is
now the most embelhshed area of the City^ and the nucleus of new streets and sump-
toons architecture.
ComhiU was formerly noted for its shops of " much stolen gear," mentioned by
Lydgate early in the fifteenth century, as well as for its taverns, where was " wine one
pint for a pennie, and bread to drink it was given free in every tavern." Here was the
fiunoos Pope's-Head Tavern, whence Pope's-Head-alley.
lineh^lane, properly Finke-lane, is so called of the Finke family, the elder of whom
nev-bailt the parish church of St. Bonnet (Finke). In Finch-lane, in the year 1765,
James Watt obtained work with John Morgan, an instrument-maker. Here Watt
became proficient in making quadrants, parallel rulers, compasses, theodolites, &c., and
contriv^ to live upon dght shillings a w^ek, exclusive of his lodging. Birchin-lanep
properly Birchover-lane, from its builder, was andently tenanted by wealthy drapers.
Anderson states that> in the year 1372, in the reign of Edward III., at least twenty
booses in Bircbin-lane^ in the very heart of the City, came under the denomination of
€ottsge8, and were so conveyed to St. Thomas's Hospital, in Southwark. The shops
also^ at this time, appear to have been detached and separate tenements, or, at leasts
lUKonnected with houses, as they are drawn to appear in Aggas's Map of London^
where yon may know the shops from the dweUiug-houses by the signs attached. In
Birchin-lane lived Mjajor Qraimt> said to have written TAe ObservoHotu on the Sills of
MofiaUUfi 1661-2. The bouses in the lane were in our time small : twenty years ago
it contained 28 houses, now it has but 16 : what it has lost in number is made up
in altitude. The lease for 80 years;, frtmi 1862, of the premises of the London and
Middlesex Bank, No. 21, Finch*lane, with a frontage of 18ft. 6in., was sold by auction,
in 1864^ and realized 10,1002., subject to a rental (Mf 600/ per annum.
On the east dde of Comhill is Chatiffe-aUey, a maze of thorough&res. " With some-
thing like four or five entrances, two from Lombard-street^ two from Comhill, and one
rom Birclun-lane, there is great danger of losing your way eather to the right or the
left : yon may possibly find that, instead of going as you intended through the Alley,
ind reaching Comhill, yon have in reality only taken another turning which leads you
into Lombwrd-street, whence you started." — (The City, p. 169.) In Change-alley
was Qanaway's coffee-house, daMoibed at page 265.
Na IS, Comhill, Birch's, the cook snd confectioner's, is probably the oldest shop of its class in the
■etropoUs. This business was established in the reigu of King George I., br a Mr. HortooL who was
•Qcceeaed bj Mr. Lucas Birch, who, in his torn, was succeeded by his son, Mr. Samuel Bircn, bom in
1767; he was many years a member of ttie Common Council, and Alderman of the Ward of Candlewick.
He was also Colonel of the Ci^ Militia, and served as Lord Mi^or in 1816, the year of the battle of
Waterloo. In his Mayoral^, ne laid the first stone of the London Institution ; and when Chantrey'a
narble statue of George III. was inaugurated in the Council Chamber, Guildhall, the inscription was
written by Lord Maror Birch. He possessed considerable literary taste, and wrote poems and musical
dramas, of wMch The Adopted CUld remained a stock piece to our time. The Alderman used annually
to send, as a present, a Twelfth*cake to the Mansion House. The upper portion of the house in ComhiU
has beoi rebuilt, but the ground-floor remains intact, a curious specimen of the decorated shop-front of
the last eentory ; and here are preserved two door-plates, inscribed, " Birch, Successor to Mr. Hortcm,"
which are 140 yean old. Alderman Birch died in 1840, haying been succeeded in the business in Com-
hiU, in 1896, by the present proprietors, Ring and Brymer. Dr. Eitohiner extols the soups of Birch, and
his skill baa long been ihmed in dvic banquets.— Chambers's Sook ^fDajf^ vol. ii. p. 164.
At a comer house, between Comliill and Lombard-street, Thomas Guy, the wealthy
stationer, commenced business. (Se« Hospitals.) This *' lucky comer " was subs^
qoently Pidding's Lottery-office. There were several other lottery-offices in Comhill*
indnding that of George Carroll, knighted as Sheriff in 1837; Lord Mayor in 1848.
Bon Thomas Istnritz was one day walking near the Boyal Exchange durinff the drawing of the
lottery fai isif^ and liMling an inclination to sport twenty pounds, went into the office of Martin ft Co,
V 2
2^2 CUBI08ITIE8 OF LONDON.
Ctnnhill, where, referriog to hii pocket-book, he counted the iramber of dayi that had elapsed from that
of his providentiiil escape from Madrid (and the tender mercies prepared for him by the beloTed Fer-
nando), he found them ampunt to 261, and then demanded to buy that ticket; but it was nearly half an
hour before it could be obtained, and only after a strict search amongst the lottery-offices In the city. At
length, a half ticket of Mo. 261 was procured at two o'clock ; and at fire it was drawn a prize of forty
thousand pounds, the only one ever exhibited to that amount in England. The lu^ky Doa lay down that
night twenty thousand pounds richer than he had risen.
Cornhill has been the scene of two calamitoos fires— one, March 25, 1748» com-
menced at a pemke-maker's, in Exchange-alley, and burnt, within twelve hours, from
90 to 100 houses (200,000Z. loss), including the London Assurance Office, the Fleece
and Three Tuns Taverns, and Tom's and the Rainbow Coffee-houses, in Cornhill ; the
Swan Tavern, with Gairaway's, Jonathan's, and the Jerusalem Coffee-houses, in Ex-
change-alley ; besides the George and Vulture Tavern, and other coffee-houses : many
lives were lost. Among the houses burnt was that in which was bom the poet Gray,
whose father was an Exchange broker ; the house was rebuilt, and was, in 1774 occu-
pied by one Natzell, a perfumer ; and in 1824 it was still inhabited by a perfumer^
No. 41, a few doors from Birchin-lane.
The second fire commenced also at a peruke-maker's, in Bishopsgate-street, adjoining^
Leadenhall-street, November 7, 1765, when all the bouses from Cornhill to St. Martin
Outwich Church were burnt; and the church, parsonage house. Merchant TiLlors* Hall,
and several houses in Threadneedle-street were much damaged. The White Lion
Tavern, purchased for 3000Z. on the preceding evening, and idl the houses in White
Lion-court, were burnt, together with five houses in Cornhill and others in LeadenhalU
street, when several lives were lost.
COVSNT GARDEN,
LYING between the north ude of the Strand and Long-acre, has been a locality of
great interest and celebrity for six centuries past. In 1222 most of the present
parish of St. Paul, Covent-garden, was occupied by the garden of the Abbey at West-
minster; unde Convent, corrupted to Covent-garden, which name occurs in a deed
of 2 August, 9 Elizabeth. Strype also tells us that it " hath probably the name of
Covent-garden because it was iJie garden and fields to that large convent or monastery
where Eieter House formerly stood." Although this is the true orthography of the
word, we see it commonly, if not invariably, written Covent, as being taken from the
French convent, more immediately than firom the Latin eonveniug; and in 1682 we
find Sir Symond d'Ewes writing it " Coven or Common Garden." In 1627, only two
persons were rated to the poor of the parish of St. Martin's-in-the-Fields, under the
head Covent-garden. The parish of St. Paul, Covent-garden, is completdy endrded
by that of St. Martin's-in-the-Fields ; but the bounduy of each, upon the site of
Bedford House and grounds, towards the lower end of Southampton-street, has been
contested since the eighteenth century. Although the Market dates from the reign
of Charles II., in 1726 and later, it was called Convent-garden ; and by the vulgar
" Common-garden" (Sir John Fielding, 1776). In digging for the foundations of the
new market, in 1829, a quantity of human bodies was exhumed on the north side of
the area, supposed to have been the Convent burial-ground. After the Dissolution, this
garden, and the lands belonging to it, were g^nted by Edward YI. to his uncle, the
Duke of Somerset, upon whose attainder they reverted to the Crown. In 1552, tbcy
were granted by patent, with seven acres, called Long-acre, of the yearly value of
61. 6s. Sd., to John Earl of Bedford, who buUt a town residence, principally of wood,
upon the site of Southampton-street, where it remained till l704; the garden extending
northward nearly to the site of the present market. Southampton-street was then
built, and named after Lady William Russell, daughter of the Earl of Southampton;
and other streets were xiamed from the Russell family — as Russell, Bedford, Tavistock,
Chandos; King and Henrietta streets, from Charles I. and his queen ; and James and
York streets, from the Duke of York, afterwards James II.
In 1634, Francis Earl of Bedford cleared the area ; in 1640, Inigo Jones built for
his lordship the church of St. Paul, on the west nde (see Chttbcueb, p. 195} ; and
lines of lofty houses upon arcades on the north and east sides, a near imitation of the
piazza at Livomo ; Tavistock-row behig built, in 1704^ upon the south. The area was
COVBNT GAEDEK 293
inclosed with ndlixigs, at 60 feet from tbe buildings ; and in the centre was a dial,
with a gilt ball, raised npon a column. One of Hollar's prints, temp. Charles II.,
shows the place as above, with uniform houses, one on each side of tbe church. In
1671, the Earl of Bedford obtained a patent for the Market, which, however, was for
a long time only held on the south side, against the garden- wall of Bedford House ; ibr
we read of " bonefires" and fire-works in the square in 1690 and 1691.
From its contiguity to the Cockpit and Drury-lane theatre, Covent-garden, " amo>
Tons and herbivorous," became surrounded with taverns. Here, in 1711, stood
** Ponch's Theatre," which thinned the congregation in the church ; quacks used here
to harangue the mob, and g^ve advice g^tis. These adventitious notorieties did not
improve the morals of the locality —
"Where holy firiars told their beads.
And nans cODfess'd their evil deeds :
But, oh, sad chan{^ ! oh, shame to tell
How soon a prey to Tice it fell 1
How? — since its jostest appellation
Is Qrand SeragUo to the nation."— .So^ir*, 1766.
" The oonTOit beoomes a playhoose ; monks and nans turn actors and actresses. The garden, formal
lad qoiel^ wluare a salad was cut for a lady abbess, and flowers were gathered to adorn images, beoomes
a maiicet, noisy and ftdl of life, distribatiiig thousanda of fruits and flowers to a vicious metropolis." —
W.a,Lmdor.
Covent-garden was the first square inhabited by the great ; for immediately upon
the completion of the houses on the north and east sides, after Inigo Jones's design,
they were every one of them inhabited by persons of the first title and rank, as appears
by the pariah-books of the rates at that time. Part of the cast side was destroyed by
fire, but not rebuilt in corresponding manner.
The chambers occupied by Richard Wilson, now the Tavistock breakfast-rooms, were
portions of the house successively inhabited by Sir Peter Lely, Sir Godfrey Eneller,
and Sir James Thomhill. Covent-garden, even so late as Pope's time, retained its
£ishioD, as may be seen in the Morning Advertiser, March 6th, 1730 : — ** The Lady
Wortley Montague, who has been greatly indisposed at her house in Covent-garden for
some time, is now perfectly recovered, and takes the benefit of the fur in Hyde P&rk
every morning, by advice of her physicians." The parish of St. Paul was at that time
tbe only fasluonable part of the town, and the residence of a great number of persons
of rank and title, and artists of the first eminence. A concourse of wits, literaiy
characters, and other men of genius, frequented the numerous coffee-houses, wine
and dder-cellaxt, jelly-shops, &c, within the boundaries of Covent-garden; the list of whom
pnrticularly includes the names of Butler, Addison, Sir Richard Steele, Otway, Dryden,
Pope, Warburton, Cibber, Fielding, Churchill, Bolingbroke, and Dr. Samuel Johnson;
lUch, Woodward, Booth, Wilkes, Garrick, and Macklin ; Kitty Clive, Peg Woffington,
Mrs. Pritchard, the Duchess of Bolton, Lady Derby, Lady Thurlow, and the Duchess
of St. Albans ; Sir Peter Lely, Sir Grodfrey Kneller, and Sir James Thomhill ; Vande-
velde, Zincke, Lambert, Hogarth, Hayman, Wilson, Dance, Meyer, and Samuel Foote.
Tbe Garden became un-funona when its opulent inhabitants exchanged their resi-
dences for the newly-built mansions in Hanover, Grosvenor, and Cavendish squares,
and Holies and the other streets adjacent. It was at that period that Mother Needham,
Mother Douglas (alias, according to Foote's Minor, Mother Cole), and Moll King, the
tavem>keepers and gamblers, took possession of the abdicated premises. Beneath St.
Paul's portico was *' Tom King's Coffee-house." Upon the south side of the market-
sheds was the noted " Finish," originally the Queen's Head, kept by Mrs. Butler, open
all night — the last of the Garden night taverns, and only dcared away in 1829. Shuter
was pot-boy here and elsewhere in the Ckirden, and, from carrying beer to the players
behind the scenes^ joined them as an actor.
The north and east sides are principally occupied as hotels and taverns. At the Old
Hnmmums Qn Arabic, " hammam"), when a bagnio, died Parson Ford, who conspicu-
ously figures in Hogarth's Midnight Modern Conversation. There is a capital ghost-
story connected with his exit, told in Croker's edition of Boswell's Life of Dr, Johnson,
(Sm Bedfobd Copfee-house, p. 261.)
The scene of Dryden's Sir Martin Ifar-aZZ is laid in this once fiishionable quarter of
the town; and the allusions to the square, the church, and the piazza are of constant
294 CUBIOSITIES OF LONDON.
occurrence in the dramas of the age of Charlee 11. and Queen Anne. Gay, in his
Trima, giyes this picture of tbe place :—
* Where GoTent-garden's fiononi temple itands.
That hoaste the work of Jones' immortal handet
ColmmiB with plain magnifioenoe appear.
And gnceftil porches lead along the iouare.
Here oft my coarse I bend, when lo I fromftar
I spy the furies of the foot>ball war :
The 'prentice quits his shop to Join the crew—
Increastoff crowds the flyinff game pursue.
Oh ! whitner shall I run ? the throng draws nighj
The ball now skims the street^ now soars on hifh;
The dexterous giaiier strong returns the bound^
And jingling saalies on the poithouae sound."
The Piaeza was very fiishionable when first erected, and mucii admired. However,
a century ago, it must have been '* a sad place.'' Shenstone writes in 1774 : —
"London is reallT dangerous at this time; the ptckpoekets, formerly content with mere filching,
make no scruple to knock people down with bludgeons in Fleet-street, in the Strand, and that at no
later hour than eight o'clock at night ; but in the Piazzas. Ck>7ent-garden, they come in large bodies,
armed with oonteaus, and attack whole parties, so that the danger of coming out of the plairhoase is or
some weight in the opposite scaler when I am disposed to go to them oftener than I ougnL
Otway has laid a scene in the Soldier' 9 Fortune in Covent-garden Piazza; and Wycher-
ley, a scene in the Country Wife, Thomas Killigrew, the wit, lived in ^e north-west
and north-east angles; in tiie latter (comer of James-street), in 1676, dwelt Visoonntoai
Muskeny, the celebrated Prinoeas of Babylon of De Grrammonfs Memoirs. The
fiimous George Robins^ of the Piazza, for fifty years, by his hammer, dispersed more
property than any other man of his time. Lord Byron used to say his order could not
go on long without George Robins to set their afikirs right: he was beloved in
literary and theatrical circles. His auction-rooms were formerly the studio of Zofiany,
who painted here Foote, in the character of Major Sturg^n. Hogarth's Marriage-^
la^Mode pictures were exhibited here gratis. One of the earliest records of artistic
Covent-garden, is that of Charlee I. establishing at the house of Sir Francis Kynaston,
in "the Garden," an academy called ** Museum Minervaa," for the instruction of
gentlemen in arts and Bdences, knowledge of medals, antiquities, painting, architecture^
and foreign lang^uages. Mr. Cunningham's Handbook is pleasantly anecdotic of the
residence of many eminent persons resident in this locality. Till the present century,
the neighbouring streets were a fashionable quarter ; and Tavistock and Henrietta
streets, fiuned for perruquiers, were crowded with carriages at shopping hours.
In RutteU'Hreet, eastward, were Will's, Button's, and Tom's Coffee-houses.
{See pp. 272, 262, 271). In James-ttreet, northward, was formerly held a Bird-market
on Sunday mornings. In the house which occupied the site of Evans's Hotel, at the
south-west comer of the Piazza, lived Sir Harry Vane, the younger ; and next Sir
Kenelm Digby, of ** Sympathetic Powder" fsune. Aubrey says : —
" Since the Restoration of Charles II.. he (Sir Kcnelm Digbr) lived in the last ikire house westward
in the north portico of Goyent-garden. where my Lord DenzU Holies lived since. Ue had a laboratory
there. I think he dyed in this house
In the same house, from 1G81 to 1689, lived Lord Crewe, Bishop of Durham ; and
it appears from the books of St. Paul's, Covent-garden, that almost all the foundlings
of ^e parish were laid at the door of the bishop's house. The exterior was much
altered for Russell, Earl of Orfbrd, the English Admiral, who, in 1692, defeated the
French off Cape la Hogue ; and people are found who see a fiuided resemblance
in the front of the house to the hull of a ship. Lord Orford's house was subsequently
occupied by Thomas Lord Archer ; and by James West, the great collector of books^
prints, drawings, &c., the sale of whose collection in this house occupied the auctioneer
six weeks. After this sale, in the house was established the first family hotel in
London, by David Low. About 1790, Mrs. Hudson, the proprietor, advertised her
house, " with stabling, for one hundred noblemen and horses." In tbe g^arden was
formerly a small cottage, in which the Kcmbles, when in the zenith of their fame at
Covent Garden Theatre, occarionally took up their abode ; and here was bom the
gifted Fanny Kemble, in the chamb^ which now forms the gallery to the Music-room of
Evans's Hotd. Evans was succeeded by Mr. John Green, for whom was built the
magnificent room, designed by Finch Hall, and opened in 1855. Here is a very inte-
resting collection of portraits of eminent dramatists, actors, and actresses.
COVENT GARDEN, 295
In ^mg-Hreet lived the lady for whom mahogany was first nsed in England; and a
few of the houses in the street have doors of solid mahogany.
Next door, westward of the orig^inal Ghirrick Clnh-houae, in King-street, lived Ame,
the upholsterer; his son. Dr. Ame, the composer, and his danghter, Mrs. Gibber, were
born in tlus houae ; where had lodged the Indian Kings, commemorated in the Tatler
and 8peci€fiar,, The house has long been tenanted by Mr. William Cribb, who was
the first to appreciate the genins of Mr. Thomas Sydney Cooper, B JL.
It was in SoMe-wtreet (Dec 18th, 1679) that Dryden, returning to his boose in
Long-acre, over against Bose-street, was barbarously assaulted and wounded by three
penoDS, hired by Wihnot, Earl of Rochester. There are many allusions to this Bose-
alley Ambuscade, as it is called, in our old State Poems. Butler, the author of
^tMfi&rof, lived, in the latter part of his life, in Bose-street, " in a studious and
retired manner/' and died there in 1680 : the house was taken down in 1863. Butler is
Esid to have been buried at the expense of Mr. William Longueville, " though he did
not die in debt.^ Some of his friends wished to have interred him in Westminster
Abbey with proper solemnity ; but not finding others willing to contribute to the
expense^ his corpse was depouted privately, " in the churchyard of St. Paul's, Covent-
garden." In 1786 a marble monument was placed on the inade south wsdl of the
cburcb, with this inscription :
** Thit little monoment whs erected in the year 1786, br some of the porishlonera of Corent-gardBOf
m mennny of ttia oelebrated Bamoel Batler, who was buried w <Am ekureh, ▲.!>. 1680.
" A few plain men, to pomp and state unknown.
O'er a poor bard have raised this humble stone;
Whose wants alone his genius could surpass —
Yictim of zeal 1 the matchless Hudibras 1
What though iUr freedom snffer'd in his page^
Beader, forgive the uithor for the age 1
How few, luas 1 disdain to cringe and cant.
When 'tis the mode to play the sycophant.
But, oh I let all be taught from Butler's fiate.
Who hope to make their fortunes by the great,
That wit and pride are always dant^rous things,
And little faiu is due to comrts and kings."
In 1721, Alderman Barber erected to Butler a monument in Westminster Abbey^
^n its epitaph Samuel Wesley wrote these stinging lines :—
"While Butler, needy wretch, was still alive.
No generous patron would a dinner give ;
8ee him, when starved to death, and turned to dust.
Presented with a monumental bust.
The poet's fate Is here in emblem shown :
He ask'd for bread, and be received a stone."
It was soon after this proposed to erect a monument in Covent-garden Church, for
which Dennis, the critic, wrote an inscription, with these lines :
" He was a whole species of poet in one :
Admirable in a manner
In which no one else has been tolerable :
A manner which began and ended in him,
tin which he knew no guide.
And has found no followers."
In Tamstock-raw, No. 4, liv^ Miss Beay, the mistress of Lord Sandwich : she was
>lK)t in the Piazza, in 1779, by the Rev. W. Hackman, in a fit of jealousy :
" A Sandwich ikvourite was his fiiir.
And her he dearly loved;
By whom six children had, we hear ;
This story fatal proved.
A clergyman, O wicked one I
In (%vent-garden shot her;
No time to cry upon her God,
It's hoped He's not forgot \i&,**^€hr%b-*treet BaUad,
In Southampionstreet is a bar-gate; the Duke of Bedford having power to erect
Vails and .gates at the end of every thoroughfare on his estate. Here, in 1711,
Bohea-tea was sold at 26«. per pound, at the sign of the Barber's Pole. At No. 27
lived David Oarrick, before he removed to the Adelphi. No. 81, late Godfrey and
^ke's, was the oldest chemist's and druggist's shop in London j but was removed from
^^^re in 1863. Rere jihotphorus wot firtt manufactured in England ; the above
296 CURIOSITIES OF LOKDON.
premises having been the house, shop, and hiboratory of Ambrose Godfrey Hanckwitz,
vrho, immediately after the discovery of phosphorus by Brandt, the aldiemist^ under
the instructions of the celebrated Robert Boyle, succeeded in preparing an ounce of
solid phosphorus; such as he subsequently sold at 50f. and 60#. an ounce. His
laboratory was a fashionable resort in the afternoon on certain occasions, when he
performed popular experiments fbr the amusement of his friends. It opened into a
garden, which extended as far ast he Strand. Curious prints exist of the laboratory
in its former state ; also a portrait of Hanckwitz, engraved by Vertue (1718), which
he had distributed among his customers as a keepsake. Hanckwitz died in 1741.
His successors, Godfrey and Cooke, maintained the date 1680 on their premises in
Southampton-street, and over the entrance to the laboratory, in the rear.
In Maiden-lane, Andrew Marvell lodged in a seoond-floor while he sat in Parliament
for Hull, and refused a Treasury order for 10002., brought to him by Lord Danb^-
from the king. Yolture lodg^ at the White Peruke. More in character with the
place was the Cyder Cellar, opened about 1730, and described in Adventures Under-
ground, 1760; and by Charlee Lamh in the Liondon Magazine, In the house,
No. 26, nearly opposite, lived William Turner, who dressed wigs, shaved beards, and,
in the days of queues, topknots, and hair-powder, waited on the gentlemen of the
Garden at their own houses. A door under the arched passage on the right led to the
shop, in the room above which was bom, in 1775, his son, Joseph Mallord William Turner,
landscape-painter. The great painter's natal house has been taken down : here, and in
the above house. Turner piunted 59 pictures, which he exhibited at the Royal Academy.
At the house at the south-east comer of Bedford-street, Clay sold his papier-mdche.
Clay was a pupil of Baskerville, of Birmingham, and first applied papier-mdchS to tea*
trays in 1760, by which he realized a fortune of 80,0002. Some of the finest of his
trays were painted by early members of the Royal Academy, among whom was
Wheatley. "At the Riding-hood Shop,, the corner of Chandos and Bedford-street,"
Humphry Wanley, the antiquary, was lodging in 1718.
CRANE-COUIRT.
OF the four-and-thirty streets, lanes, courts, and alleys leading from Fleet-street, the
most notable is Crane-court, eastward of Fetter-lane ; though this court does not
lead anywhere, it being a cul-de-sac. It was originally named Two Crane-court. It
was rebuilt immediately after the Great Eire, and contains a few specimens of fine
brickwork. Strype describes Crane-court as " a very handsome open place, graced with
good buildings, well inhabited by persons of repute." Until about 1782 it was paved with
black and white marble. The large end house was built by Sir Christopher Wren, and
was inhabited by Dr. Edward Brown, an eminent physician, until 1710, when it was
purchased, with the "acljoyning little house," by the Royal Society; the President,
Sir Isaac Newton, recommending it as being " in the middle of the town, and out of
noise." On the meeting-nights, a lamp was hung out over the entrance to the court
from Fleet-street. The Society met here until 1782, when they removed to Somerset
House, and sold that in Crane-court to the Scottish Hospital and Corporation, who now
occupy it. This Company originated in " the Scottish Box," in 1613 : the members
then numbered only 20, and met in Lamb's Conduit-street ; their Charter dates from
1665. The Hospital now distributes about 2200Z. a year, chiefly in lOL pensions to
old people ; and the prmcely bequest of 76,495/., by Mr. W. Kinloch, allows 1800/.
being g^ven in pensions of 41. to disabled soldiers and sailors. The monthly meeting:^
of the Society are preceded by Divine service in the chapel, in the rear of the bouse.
The meeting-room has an enriched ceiling of finely-carved oak. The walls are hung
with portraits of the Duke of Laudmlale, by Lely; Mary Queen of Scots, by
Zucchero; the Earl of Bedford; the Duke of Queensberry; the second Duke of
Sutherland; James, third Duke of Montrose; the Scottish Regalia; and a large
whole-length portrait of William IV., painted by Wilkie, and presented by him to the
Scottish Hospital, &c
Crane-court had a few other notabilities. In the first house on the right (now
rebuilt) lived Dryden Leach, the printer, who, in 1763, was arrested on a general
warrant, upon suspicion of having printed Wilkes's North Briton, No. 45 : Leach was
CROSBY HALL, , 297
taken <mt of his bod in the night, his papers were seized, and even his journeymen and
servants were apprehended ; the only foundation for the arrest being a hearsay that
Wilkes had been seen going into Leach's house. Wilkes had been sent to the Tower
for the No. 45 ; after much litigation he obtained a verdict of 4000^., and Leach
300/. damages from three of the king's messengers, who had executed the illegal
warrant. Orane-court has long been a sort of nursery for newspapers : here was the
oi&ce of the Commercial ChroiUele ; the TraveUer removed to No. 9 from Fleet-street,
and remained here until its junction with the Globe, In the basement of another house
were printed the early numbers of Punch ; or, the London Charivari ; and in No. 10
(Palmer and Clayton's), immediately opposite, was first printed the lllmirated London
New9f projected and established by Herbert Ingram, in Ihe spring of 1842. The Society
of Arts first met in apartments over a drculating library in Crane-court ; and here the
Society awarded its first prize (152.) to Cosway, then a boy of fifteen, and afterwards
a fashionable miniatiure-painter. The circulating library in the court was one of the
earliest established in the metropolis ; the first was Bathe's, about 1740, at No. 182,
Strand ; in 1770 there were but four.
CROSBY BALL,
FBishopsgate-street, and north of the entrance into Crosby-square, is a portion of
Crosby Place, built upon ground leased of the Prioress of St. Helen's in 1466, by
Sir John Crosby, alderman, one of the sheriffs in 1471, knighted by Edward lY. in the
same year, and deceased in 1475 : " so short a time enjoyed he that his large and
sumptuous building ; he was buried in St. Helen's, the parish church ; a fair monu-
ment to him and his lady was raised there." — (Stow.)
The next possessor of Crosby Place was Richard Duke of Gloucester, afterwards
King Richard III. ; and here Shakspeare has laid a portion of his drama of that name ;
though " the historian is compelled to say, that neither at the death of Henry VI. in
1471, nor at the marriage of Richard with the Lady Anne in 1473, is it probable
that Bichard was in possession of Crosby Place;" but here he determined upon tbe
deposition, and perhaps the death, of the young King Edward V., and here plotted his
own elevation to the vacant throne.
The Bev. Jowph Hunter, in his New lUuttnUiont qf ShaktfMart, says: — "In the coarse of my
researches only one docament has presented itself whlen is entirely unknown, containing a notice of
Shakspeare during the course of his London life. It shows us, what has hitherto remained undis-
eoTcred, in what part qf London he hod fixed his residence at the i)eriod of his life when he was pro-
ducing the choicest of nis works. We have evidence of the most decisive nature, that on October 1,
in the forUeih year of Queen Elizabeth, which answers to tfa« year 1588, Shakspeare was one of the
inhabitants of St. Helen, Bishopsgate, and consequently a near neighbour of Crosby Hall. In an assess-
ment-roll of that date, for levying the first of three entire subsidies whieh were granted to the Queen
in the thirty-ninth year of her reign, the name of William Shakspeare occurs in connexion with that
of Sir John Spenoer, and other inhabitants of the parish of St. Helen's, with the sum 6/. 1S«. ^^ the
assessment, against the poet's name. This document gives us the names of his neighbours ; among
whom we ifaid Sir John Spencer; I>r. Bichard Taylor, Dr. Peter Turner. Dr. Edward Jordan, all well-
known physicians ; Dr. Cullimore, Robert Honey wood, and the heads of the wealthy l^miilics of Bead
and Bomnson."
Crosby Place was next purchased by Sir Bartholomew Read, who kept here his
mayoralty, 1501. Its next possessor was Sir John Best, Mayor in 1516 (the year of
£vil May-day), and by him it was sold to Sir Thomas More, in what year is uncertain ;
but it was probably soon after his return from his mission to Bruges, in 1514 and
1515; and as this journey forms the groundwork of the Utopia, there is reason to
infer this charming romance to have been written at Crosby Place, to which the
picture in the preface of Sir Thomas's domestic habits may apply. There is little or
no doubt that More wrote his History of Richard the Third at Crosby Place, however
it may be with the Utopia, Here, too^ More probably received Henry VIII. ; for
this was just the time he was in high favour with the king, who then kept his court at
Castle Baynard's, and St. Bride's. In 1523 More sold Crosby Place to his dearest
friend Antonio Bonvisi, a rich merchant of Lucca, who leased the mansion to William
Bastell, More's nephew; and to William Roper, the husband of More's favourite
daughter Margaret. In the reign of Edward VI., Bonvisi, Rastell, and Roper were
driven abroad by religious persecution, and Crosby Place was forfeited, but restored on
the accesnon of Mary. The next proprietors were Jermyn Cioll, who married a cousin
2P8 CUBI08ITIE8 OF LONDON.
of Sir Thomas Grasham ; and Alderman Bond, who added to the edifice a lofty tnrret>
thoogh no traces of it are now to be fbnnd.
In 1594^ Sir John Spencer pxvchased Crosby Flao^ and in it kept his mayoralty that
year. He greatly improved the Place, and " builded a most large warehouse near
ihereonto." He was the *' rich Spencer/' worth nearly a million of money ; and here
he entertained Snlly, when he came on a special embaray firom Henry IV. of France to
James I. Sir John Spencer's daughter and sole heiress married William, the second
Lord Compton, afterwards Earl of Northampton, and ancestor of the present Marqnis.
Daring Lord Compton's proprietorship, the celebrated Countess of Pembroke, " Sidney's
sister, Pembroke's mother," lived many years in Crosby Place. Spencer, Earl of
Northampton, son of the last-mentioned proprietor, resided here in 1638. Two years
previously, the property was leased to Sir John Langham, sheriff in 1642, during
whose occupation it was frequently used as a prison for Royalists. His son. Sir Stephen
Langham, succeeded him ; and during his tenancy, Crosby Place was so injured by fire^
that it was never afterwards used as a dwelling. In 1672, the Upper Hall was con-
verted into a Presbyterian meeting-house by the Rev. T. Watson ; he was followed by
Stephen Chamock ; Dr. Grosvenor, a pupil of Benjamin Kench ; and Edmxmd Calamy,
jun. The congregation continued to meet here till 1769, when it was dispersed;
previously to which a fiirewell sermon was preached here by the Rev. Mr. Jones, the
predecessor of the Rev. Dr. CoUyer, of Peckham.
The Hall was then let as a packer's warehouse. In 1677, the present houses in
Crosby-square were built on the ruins of the old manuon. In 1S31, the packer's
lease of the Hall expired ; when public attention was drawn to its restoration, as the
finest example in the metropolis of the domestic manuon of Perpendicular work* Its
long list of distinguished tenants^ — above all, its association with Richard III., greatly
popularized the proposed restoration ; and, on June 27, 1836, the first stone of the
new work was laid by Lord Mayor Copeland, alderman of Biahopagate Ward ; when
the Hall was fitted up with banners, strewed with rushes, and an Elisabethan break&st
served upon the long tables.
On Jxdy 12, 1838, a musical performance was given in the Hall, after sennce in St.
Helen's Church, in commemoration of Sir Thomas Qresham : the place is fraught with
musical memories, for under its shadow once lived Byrde, Wilbye, and Morley, the
celebrated madrigalists.
The restoration was completed in 1842 : repairs have been made, and mnch of the
orig^inal manuon has been built : the Hall, the Council-chamber, with the Throne-
room above, remain ; and the vaults are a fine specimen of early brickwork. The
entrance to Crosby-square is through a smidl gateway from Bisliopsgate-street. The
Hall consists of one story only, lighted by lofty and elegant windows, and a beautiful
oriel window, reaching from the floor to the roof. The Coimdl-chamber* was stripped
of many of its decorations in 1816 by the proprietor, who removed them to adorn a
dairy at his seat, Fawley Court, Bucks; but tho finely-coved ceiling became the pro-
perty of Mr. Yamold, of Great St. Helen's, at the sale of whose Collection, in 1825,
this lot was purchased by Mr., Cottingham, the architect, who fitted it as the ceiling
of his Elizabethan Museum at No. 43, Waterloo-bridge-road : at the disperaon of
which, in 1851, the relic was again sold. The Throne-room has an oak-ribbed rounded
roof; and among its windows, is one reaching the entire height of the apartment.
The Great Hall, the innermost sanctuary, is 54 ft. long, 27i broad, and 40 feet high.
It has a minstrels' gallery, but not a dais.
The gloiy of the i^laoe is, however, the roof, which is an elaborate architectural stady, and decidedly
one of the nneat specimeoB of timber-work in existence. It differs from many other examples in being
an inner roof; it is of cork or chestnut, of low pointed arches, approaching to an eilipse. From the
main points of intersection hang pendants, which end in octagonal ornaments, pierced with small
niches, each pendant forming the centre of four arches ; so that, in whatever point it is -viewed, the
desisn presents a series of arches of elegant construction, whilst the spandrels are pierced with perpen-
dicular trefoil-headed niches. The principal timbers are ornamented with small flowers, or knots of
foliage, in a hollow ; and the whole springy firom octangular corbels of stone attached to the piers
between the windows. Here the superior taste of the architect is strikingly displayed in the method
by wliich ho has avoided an horizontal import to his celling, by constructing arches of timber corrc-
* In 1794^ Mr. Capon painted for John Philip Eemble, at New DruTj-laae Theatre, the Council
Chamber, for the pli^ of Jane Shore ; a correct restoration of the original apartment, as fiff as existlog
documents would warrant.
CBUTCKED FBIAB8. 2m
sponding with the ornamental portiona of the roof above the lateral windows, and thus completely
avoiding a horizontal line, which waa aa much the abomination of oar andent architects aa it is the
DiToarite of our nnodem onea. These arches are snrmoimted by an elegant entablature, of a moiUded
architraTe, a ftleu of pierced qnatrefoils in square panels, and an embattled oomioe ; each quatrefoil
coDtained a mall flower, of which fifty-tix originally existed on each side of the Hall, the designa being
diuimllar.
The oriely forzmng an ornameuted recess in the side of the Hall, has ever been re-
garded as one of its best features : it is yanlted with stono, beautifnlly groined, the
ribs springing from small pillars attached to the angles; while knots of foliage and
h'isaeB are at the points of intersection. Among them is a ram trippant, the crest of
Sir John Crosby. This and the other windows have been, for the most part, filled with
stained glass, decorated with the armorial bearings of the several personages fhmons in
the history of Crosby Place, as well as of persons of taste who have contributed to its
restoration. The lower aperture has been closed by the same piece of wood-work that
was formerly elevated above it. The floor is paved with stone in small squares arranged
diagonally. In the north wall is a fire-place, which is at least angular, if not unique^
in a Hall of this age.
Crosby Hall, hi its restored state, has been let for muncal performances and lectures;
and it was, for some time, the meeting-place of a Literary Society. The west front dt
the premises, next Bishopsgate-street, has been composed in the style of the half-
timbered houses of the Crosby period. Here is a statue of Sir John Crosby, by Nixon ;
with lus arms and crest.
CBUTCKED FRIARS.
THIS inctaiesque firagment of old London, which Hatton describes '' as a very oon-
•^ sidlerablei, though crooked street," lies between Jewxy-street and Hart-street, tho
oldest portion being a short distance towards Tower-hill, fWnn Fenchurch-street. Here
remained tiB lately a group of houses, but little altered since Queen Elizabeth's days;
the quaint gables, the highly-pitched roofs, the peculiar arrangement of the water-
tnraghs, the prqjections over the shop windows little more than seven feet in height,
the thick window-frames and small squares of glass — all denoted the oonaderable age
tLe structure.
"Hie street derives its name from being on the site of the ancient monastery of
Crouched or Crotsed Friars (Fratrea Sancta CrueU), founded in 1298, by Ralph Hosier
•nd William Sabemes, who became friars here. Originally they carried in th^ hands
^ mm cross^ which they afterwards exchanged for one of silver. They wore a cross^
mtde of red doth, on their garment, which at first was g^y> and in later times altered
to blue. One Adams was the first prior, and Edmund Streatham the last. Their
Aunial income seems to have been small. Henry YIII. granted thdr house to Sir
'^^^^''Do Wyat, the elder, who built a handsome mansion on part of the site. This
I^OQM afterwards became the residence of John Lord Lumley, a celebrated warrior in
the time of Henry VIII., who greatly distingmshed himself at the battle of Flodden,
hy his valour and the number of men he brought into the field. " John Lord
Lunley, grandson to the first," says Pennant, " was amongst the few of the nobility
of that time who had a taste for hterature." He married his sister Barbary to Hum*
phrey Llwyd, of Denbigh, and by his assistance formed a considerable library, which
f^ present makes a valuable part of the British Museum. The refectory was converted
into the first glass-house ever established in England, which was burned down in
^^75. On the site was subsequently erected a stupendous tea-warehouse for the East
India Company.
Near this place stood a Northumberland House, which was inhabited in the reign of
Henry VI. by two of the Earls of Northumberknd. One lost his life at the battle
^^ »St. Albans, and the other his son in that of Toulon. Being deserted by the Percies,
the gardens were converted into bowUng-alleys, " and other parts," says Stow, " into
dldng-bouses." This was probably one of the first of those evil places of resort.
In the valley, now crossed by a viaduct of the Blackwall Railway, were the
^mahoasGS of the Drapers' Company, erected and endowed in 1521, by Sir John
^ilborae. They were taken down in 1862; they are described under Almb-
Houaw, p. a
The neighbourhood has, however, a far more remote antiquity, for an inscribed stone
300 CURIOSITIES OF LONDON.
fband in the Tenter-ground, in Goodman's-fields, while making an excavation in a
garden at a depth of about seven feet below the surface, takes us back to the Roman
occupation of Britain. Several fragments of urns were found at the same time. The
inscription connects it with the Sixth Legion; and from it this portion of the
Roman army is presumed to have been stationed for a time in or near London.
In 1865, there was excavated in Jewry-street a portion of the western wall of old
London. Almost upon the very day that the above discovery was made of the western
wall, near Aldersgate* street was excavated a portion of the ecutem. The wall runs
in a straight line from the Tower to Aldgate, by Trinity-square, where a portion has
been discovered, which, though not Roman, was supposed to rest on Roman founda-
tions. In 18 il, the Black wall Railway, much further north than this point, cut
through Roman remains of the great Wall, nearly opposite Milbome's Almshouses.
These remains are engraved in Knight's London, vol. i. p. 164, where the firagment is
described as *' recently excavated behind the Minories." In August, 1864^ was dis-
covered an extensive fragment of a Norman wall, upon undoubtedly Roman foundations ;
and partly behind the j^iinories, on the east adeof the lower end of Jewry-street, which
had been cleared of a number of small houses, remains were found at various levels ; as,
masses of Roman stonework, with bondings of Roman bricks, or, as we should call
them, tiles; a superstructure of earlier date; and in the lowest depths horns of oxen
and other remains in abundance. East of the site is Vine-street, named from a vine-
yard anciently there, in the rear of the Minories. Some of the entire Roman bricks,
cleared of cement* &c., were fine specimens of the building materials of our conquerors.
{See Goodkak'b Fields.)
CRYPTS,
THE Crypts, vaults, or undercrofts remaining in the metropolis, are interesting
specimens of its ecclesiastical and domestic architecture.
The Crypt or Lower Chapel of Old London Bridge belongs to the put : it was constnicted in the
tenth or (^reat pier, and was entered both from the upper apartment and the street, as well as by a flisrlit
of stone stairs winding round a pillar which led into ic fh)m outside the pier: whilst in front of ihis
latter entrance the sterling formed a platform at low-water, which thus rendered it accessible from the
river. This Ciypt was about 60 feet m length, 20 feet high, and had a groined roof, suppcnted by stone
ribs springing from clustered columns ; at the intersections were bosses sculptured with diembs, epi:D-
copal heads, and a crowned head (probably Richard Cceur-do-Lion), grouped with four masks; and
near the entrance was a piscina for holy water. Here was a rich series of windows looking on to the
water, and the floor was paved with black and white marble : herehi was buried Peter of Colechorch,
the priest-architect of the bridge. The Chapel was taken down in 1700 : the Crn>t had been many
years used as a paper warehouse ; and tbougn the floor was always from 8 to 10 feet under the surface
at high- water mark, yet the masonry was so good that no water ever penetrated. In front of tho
bridge-pier a square fish-pond was formed in the sterling, into which the OBh were carried by the tide,
and there detained by a wire grating placed over it ; and " an ancient servant pf London Bridge, nuw
(1827) verging upon his hundredth summer, well remembers to have gone down tlurongh the Chapel to
fish in the pond.^'— Thomson's Ckronicln, p. 617.
St. Babtholomew's Crtpt, Smithfield, exists in good preservation under the
diuing-hall or refectory of the priory, of which also there remain other appurtenances.
The crypt is of great length, has a double row of beautiful aisles, with Early-Pointed
* arches, divided by Middlesex-passage, leading from Great to Little Bartholomew-close ;
a door at the extremity is traditionally said to have communicated by a subterranean
passage with Canonbury, at Islington. Beneath the '* Coach and Horses" public-
house, probably once the hospitium, within the west gate of the monastery, is tho
remains of another crypt.
BiBHOPSGATE-STREET WiTHiN, No. 66 (taken down in 1865), was built upon a
crypt, of ecclesiastical architecture.
Bow Church Cbtpt, Cheapside, consists of columns and simple Bomanesque groin-
ings, said to be of the age of the Conqueror ; it is the crypt of the ancient Norman
church, but it was mistaken by Wren for Roman workmanship. It has long been used
as a dead-house, is ventilated, and the coffins are put in fair order. At Messrs. Grow-
cock's, in Bow Churchyard, is a small portion of another crypt or undercroft. It is
difficult to understand how Wren was led to the belief that the above remains were
Koman ; unless, as was pointed out by Mr. Gwilt, in an admirable description of the
crypt ( Vetiuta Monumenta, voL v. plates 61 to 65), Wren was deceived by the fact
CRYPTS. 301
that Roman bricks are used in the oonstmction of the arches ; or did he mean that
they were more Romano, or in the Roman manner?
St. EtheiiBeda's Chapel Cbypt, Ely-place, originally a burial-place, is not
TBalted, but has for its roof the chapel-floor, supported by enormous chestnut posts and
girden. During the Interregnum, when Ely House and its offices were converted
into a prison and hospital, this crypt became a kind of military canteen ; it was sub-
sequently used as a public cellar to vend drink in; and here were frequently revellings
heard during divine service in the chapel above.
GAKEAWAY*a CoFPEE-HousE, 3, Change-alley, Cornhill, had a crypt of fourteenth
and sixteenth century architecture, was of ecclesiastical character, and had a piscina;
it was used as the coffee-house wine-cellar, and extended under Change-alley.
Gerabd'b Haxl Ceyft, Basing-lane, was the only remaining vestige of the mansion
of John Gisorg, pepperer. Mayor of London in 1245 ; " a great house of old time,
biulded upon arched vaults, and with arched gates of stone brought from Cane in
Xormandy" {Stow) ; Oisors' HaU being corrupted to Gerard's HalL The date of this
crypt was probably late in the thirteenth century. The groined roof was supported by
sixteen columns : the crypt, although generally resembling a subterranean ecclesiastical
edifice was constructed solely for the stowage of merchandize, and was thus an example
of the warehouse of the wealthy London merchant of the thirteenth century. The
great house called the Yintrie stood upon similar vaults, which were used for the
stowage of French wines; it was likewise occupied, in 1314^ by Sir John Gisors, who
was a vintner. Gerard's Hall Crypt, with the modem inn which had replaced, the
I^ was removed in forming a new street in 1859, when some curious old merchant's
niarks were foond.
Here was preserved the tutelar effigies of " Gerard the gyant," a fidr specimen of a London sign,
«"p. Charles II. Here also was shown tbo staff used by Gerard in the wars, and a ladder to ascendto
Joe top of the staff; and in the netehboorlng church of St. Mildred, Bread-street, hangs a huge tiltiug-
oeiinet, said to have been worn bv the said gvant. The staff, Stow thinks, may rather have been used
ss a Hay-pol^ and to stand in the hall decked with evergreens at Christmas ; the ladder serving for
wcbng the pole and haU-roof.*— J: W, Areker,
Guildhall Cbtpt is the finest and most extensive undercroft remaining in London,
Md is the only portion of the ancient hall (erected in 1411) which escaped the Great
^'ire. It extends the whole length beneath the Gmldhall from east to west, divided
pearly equally by a wall, having an ancient Pointed door. The crypt is further divided
mto aisles by clastered columns, from which spring the stone-ribbed groins of the vaulting,
*^^^posed partly of chalk and bricks ; the principal intersections being covered with
^^vvod bosses of flowers, heads, and shields. The north and south aisles had formerly
QiuUioned windows, now walled up. At the eastern end is a fine Early-English arched
<?ntraDo^ in fair preservation ; and in the south-eastern angle is an octangular recess^
^hich formerly was ceiled by an elegantly groined roof; height, 13 feet. The vault-
^n?i with four-oentred arches, is very striking, and is probably some of the earliest of
^Qe sort, which seems peculiar to this country. Though called the Tudor arch, the
^e of its introduction was Lancastrian. (See Weale's London, p. 159.) In 1851
tbe stone-work was rubbed down and cleaned, and the clustered shafts and capitals
^^e repaired ; and on the visit of Queen Victoria to Guildhall, July 9, 1851, a ban-
^net was served to her Majesty and suite in this crypt, which was characteristically
^ecorated for the occasion. Opposite the north entrance is a large antique bowl, of
^^^ptian red granite, which was presented to the Corporation by Migor Cooksoa in
1802, as a memorial of the British achievements in Egypt.
"Gttt Fawkeb'b Czllab" was a crypt-like apartment beneath the old House of
7^^^ the ancient Parliament-chamber at Westminster, believed to have been rebuilt
oy King Henry XI. on the ancient foundations of Edward the Confessor's reign. " The
^alls of this building were nearly seven feet in thickness, and the vaults below (' Guy
^*eB*s Cellar') were very massive. Piers of brickwork (possibly of Charles the
^^pd's time) had been raised to strengthen the ceiling and sustain the weight of the
^nament-chamber floor, together with strong rafters of oak, supported by twelve
octagonal oak posts, on stone plinths. This building was taken down about the year
302 CURIOSITIES OF LONDON.
1828, when it was BBoertained that the vaults had heen the andent kitchen of Uie Old
Fialace ; and near the south end the original battery-hatch was discovered, together
with an adjoining pantry or cupboard." (Britton and Bailey's Westminster Palace,
p. 421.) The conspirators obtained access to the vaults through a house in the south-
east comer of Old Palace-yard, which was at one time occupied as the Ordnance Office,
and afterwards as the entrance to the House of liords.
After the Ghinpowder Plot, Nov. 6, 1606. it became the custom to leirch and carefUly exaimne all
the vaolts and paanages under the Houses oi Parliament, previons to the Sovereign opening the Session.
This precautionary inspection, continued to our time, was performed by certain officers of Parliament,
sntthro
dined, 1
Sieces'
ny of the Boyal ceremonial.
ispect
headed by the Usher of the Black Rod, who went through the vaults, andexamined the various nooks and
recesses that might, if conspirators were so inclined, a^n hold combustibles, with the intent, " suddenly
and with one blast, to blow up and tear in pieces " those assembled on the oocaalon In Parliament.
HosTELST OF THX PBIOBS OP LxwES Cbtft, the, was discovered in Carter-lane,
Sonthwark, in 1832. This vaulted chamber was supported by six demi-columns^ attached
to the side walls ; the columns and arches of wrought stone, and the vaultings of chalk.
In 1834 was discovered another cryptal chamber, with a plain maseive round pillar in
the centre, from which sprang elliptic-ribbed arches, forming a gproined roof. This
vault is supposed to have been the cellar of " the Hostelry for Travellers, which bad
the sign of the 'Walnut Tree.'" (Stow.) Both Crypts ori^nally belonged to the
town-lodging of the Priors of Lewes; the larger Crypt being under the great Hall,
which had been used as the grammar school-room of St. Olave's, founded by Queen
Elizabeth. These crypts were destroyed in making the approaches to the New-
London Bridge.
St. Joki7*b Cbypt, Clerkenwdl, is semi-Norman and Early English, and part of
the magnificent Priory Church of St. John of Jerusalem ; the superstructure of the
present Church of St. John being mostly the patched-up remains of the choir. This
Crypt in modem times (1762) has been rendered notorious by the detection of
the imposture known as the Cock-lane Ghost. The most interesting remaining
portions of the Crypt comprise the central avenue and a small compartment on
each side of it by the entrance at the east end. The Crypt appears to have been
originally above ground, and not subterraneous : an entrance to it may be seen in
Hollar's view of the east end as it appeared in 1661 from St. John-street, with the
hospital gardens and boundary-wolL The central portion of the ciypt oonmsts of four
Bcverej's or bays : two simple and plain, being semi-Norman, and two Early English, and
very perfect, the details and mouldings being worthy of careful examination. The
ribs of the Early-English bays spring from triple-clustered columns, in each angle of
the bays, with moulded capitals and bases; the upper moulding horizontally fluted,
similar to some Gredan-Ionic bases. The central shafts of the clustered columns are
pointed, and the diagonal ribs have three mouldings : the central one is pointed and the
outer are rolls. This pointed bowtell occurs frequently in semi-Norman and Early-
English work, and is coeval with the introduction of the pointed arch. Suspended
firom the keystone of each arch is an ifOn ring. On each ude of the two western bays
of the central aisle is a deeply-recessed pointed widow : the doorways are trefoil-headed.
Lahbeth Palace Cetpt, or Under-chapel, is considered to be the oldest portion
of the Palace. It consists of a series of strongly-groined stone arches, supported cen-
trally by a shorty massive column, and by brackets in the side walls. These vaults are
now converted into cellars ; they might, possibly, have been ori^nally used for Divine
wonhip, as there are two entrances to them teom the cloisters.
"Lambeth Palace Chapel retains a Crypt, a doorwaj, and windows of great beauty, but tiie Chap^^l
has otherwise been quite barbarlsed; and tne remainder of this archiepiscopal residence, tbooffh focmdcd
as early as the reign of Richard Coenr-de-Lion (before which it was a residence of the Bishop of UochcFtcr),
now forms only a confused medley of buildings, with no fragment older than the fifteenth century."
Weale's London, p. 145.
Lake's Chafel Ceyft, Monkwell-street, is a remarkably pure and finished spoci-
men of the Norman style. The vaulted roof has been supported by nine short oolomns,
six of which remain, with very ornate capitals ; and the interesting ribs of the groining:
are decorated with zig-zag mouldings and a spiral ornament The carved work is of
Caen stone. The chapel was originally " the Hermitage of St. James's" in the wall,
CBTPT8. 808
ft cell to the Abbey of Qnorndon, in Ldcestenhire, and said to have been founded by
Henry III^ but evidently upwards of a century earlier. The Chapel and its appur-
tenances were granted by Henry YIII. to William Lamb, who bequeathed and endowed
it at his death for the benefit of the Clothworkers* Company, of which he was a mem-
ber. (See I^amb'b Coxdttit, p. 288.)
Leathbb-SsiiLSBS' Hall Csyft, at the east end of St. Helen's-place, Bishopsgate,
tdjoins the church of St. Helen on the north side, and extends beneath the present
bill: it is boldly groined. In the wall which separated this Crypt from the church
were two ranges of small apertures, made in an oblique direction, so that the high altar
might be seen by those in the Crypt when mass was performing. The position of one set
cf these openings (" The Nuns' Grating") is marked out within the present church by
a stone-canopied altar affixed to the walL The Crypt has been engraved by J* T. Smith.
St. HASTnc's-LE-GBAin) Cbypt was Imd open in clearing for the site of the new
Cenenl Post-Office, in 1818, the area formerly occupied by the Church and Sanctuary
of St. Martin. There were then found two ranges of vaults, which had served as
oellan to the houses above; one of these being the ciypt of St. Martin's (taken down
in 1547), and afterwards the ceUar of a large wine-tavern, the " Queen's Head." This
was in the Pointed style of Edward III., and was most likely the work of. William of
Wjkeham. The second or westernmost range, which must have supported the nave,
^w of earlier date, and was a square, vaulted chamber, divided by piers six feet
square : here were found a coin of Constantino, and a stone coffin containing a skeleton ;
and in digging somewhat lower down, Roman remains were met with in abundance.
In St. Martin's-le-Chrand also, between Aldersgate and St. Ann's-lane end, was the largo
taTem of the "Mourning Bush," whose vaulted cellars, as they remain from the Great
yrre of 1666, disdoee the foundation-wall of Aldersgate, and a remarkably fine sped-
men of early brick arch-work.
St. MiBY Aldbbhaby, Bow-lane. — In 1835, upon the removal of some houses in
WatUng-street, at the east end of this church, a building, thought to be the Crypt of
tbe old diurch commenced by Sir Henry Eeble in 1510, was brought to light. In
1851, in widening the thoroughfare by way of Cannon-street, just opposite St.
Swithin's Church and London Stone, an ancient vault or crypt, of connderable length,
was opened ; it had stone cross-springers, forming a Pointed arch, and was vaulted
with chalk.
Hebchakt Tailobs' Hall Cbypt was brought under notice during some repairs
in 1855, this being the crypt of the former Hall, destroyed by the Great Fire. The
^tchen, seen in the way to the Crypt, may be older than the time of the fire, probably
tbont the time of Henry YIII. On a conspicuous part of the wall is the excellent
motto— "Wabtb Not, Wamt Not." There are some Pointed arches and windows,
*Qd also two corbels, visible. The Crypt is at a considerable depth below the kitchen,
and has been used for some time pest as a coal-cellar : the walls and filling in between
tbe groins are of chalk. The Company have preserved it. About seven feet from tliis
^pt, and under the late open yard of the Hall, another old vault has been since
discovered : it is 7 feet wide, and quite fuU of garden-mould. The walls are of chalk-
mbble, and the voussoirs of KenUsh rag.
^' MiOHAXL, Aldgate. — ^A subterranean passage is said to conduct from the
Tower to the ancient Chapel or Crypt of St. Michael at Aldgate, situated under the
™«« at the south-east comer of Loudon Wall-street, hard by Aldgate pump. It has
aome marks of the semi-Norman, or Transition style, but it is assigned to Prior
Korman, in 1108. The central clustered column is Norman; the bosses remain
P^<ict, and contain roses and grotesque heads. A means of approach from tho street
^ existed; and there are indications of two other passages, one said to have run to
l>oke's-place, and the other to the Tower.
St. Paul's Cbypt extends beneath the whole of tbe church, and, like the body of
^be Cathedral, is divided into three avenues by massive pillars and arches ; except the
V^^'^m. beneath the aiea of the dome, it is well lighted and ventiUted by window!
304 CUBIOSITIES OF LONDON.
opening into tbe churchyard. The north aisle is a place of sepulture for the pazishioners
of St. Faith. (See CHUBCHsa, p. 113.) In the crypt of Old St. Paul's the stationers
of Fatemoster-row had warehoused their stocks of books, which were destroyed in
the Great Fire.
St. Stephen's Cbypt, Wbstmixsteb Palace, also called " St. Mary's Cbapel iii
the VaultV' formed the basement of St. Stephen's Chapel, founded by King Stephen,
and rebuilt by Edward I. in 1292 : a roll of this date records the purchase of two
shiploads of chalk, bendes burnt lime, ashes, and sand, for the foundation of the chapel,
thus proving it to have been raised on a concrete basis ; and how substantially is
proved by the Ci^pt remaining in excellent preservation, notwithstanding the super-
structure has been twice destroyed by fire— in 1298 and 1834. Like other crypts,
this is of low proportions, but has no division by detached pillars ; the manes pro-
jecting inwards, and dividing window from window in short massive clusters, the
vault-ribs and all other members partaking of the same bold, thick character ; whilst
the tracery of the windows is exquisitely beautiful. Streng^th, solidity, fine propor-
tions, and skilful execution, are the characteristics of this basement chapel" (Briiton
and Brayley), which *' is the last fragment in London that can be decidedly classed
in the first or progressive period of English architecture." — (Weale's London.) This
Crypt was fitted up as the state dining-room of the Speaker of |ihe House of Commons ;
it was much damaged in the great fire of 1834, but has been restored as a chapel for
the officers of the House of Commons ; and daring the works, on January 17, 1853,
the workmen discovered, beneath a window-seat, the embalmed body of an ecclesiastic,
without any coffin. The corpse lay with the feet towards the east (sdd to be an
unusual position for an ecclesiastic) ; it was wrapped in several folds of waxed doth sewn
together with coarse twine; its right hand, on which was probably the ring or
jewelled glove, was lying on the breast. Over the left arm was the pastoral staff— ^
a crook— -of oak, beautifully carved. On the feet were sandals, with leathern soles
sharply pointed. Upon removing the cere-cloth, the face proved to be in remarkable
preservation, with hair on the chin and upper lip. The remains are presumed to be
those of William Lyndwoode, Bishop of St. David's, who founded a chantry in St.
Stephen's Chapel, and died in 1446 ; and in the patent roU of 32 Henry VI. there is
a license to the bishop's executors fbr one or two chaplains to celebrate divine service
daily *' for the soul of the aforesaid bishop, whose body lies buried in the said under-
chapel," &C. The relics wore inspected by a deputation fVom the Society of Antiqua-
ries on Jan. 31, 1852 ; and a cast of the face having been taken for Her Majesty, the
remains were placed in an elm coffin, and buried in a grave in the north cloister of
Westminster Abbey ; the pastoral staff and sandals being sent to the British Museum.
TowBB OT Loin)Oir.— The Crypt, or large range of vaults, beneath the White
Tower, is half underground, and now covered by modem brickwork. These vaults
were formerly occupied as prisons ; and among the inscriptions still remaining on a
wall of a subterranean cell is one cut by the unfortunate Bishop of Rochester, John
Usher, who was beheaded for his opposition to the Reformation.
CUEIOSITT^SSOFS.
THE principal locality for dealers in Curiosities, including ancient fhrnlture and
carvings, pictures, china and enamels, painted glass, metal-work, and church-
furniture, has long been in Wardour-street, Soho, and Oxford-street. Formerly it was
also noted for its book -stalls; but in the spreading taste for Curiosities within the
last quarter of a century, the book>8talls have mostly disappeared, and the Curiosity-
dealers here now number sixteen. Wardour-street is especially famous for old
furniture and carvings ; Hanway-street (formerly Hanway-yard, at the east end of
Oxford-street), being more exclusively celebrated for its china-dealers. There are also
gpood specimens of well-stocked Curiosity-shops towards the middle of the Strand.
These several shops are principally supplied from the Continent ; but it is a profitable
business to collect specimens from our provinces, where an Elizabethan bedstead has
been bought for five shillings, and sold for twice as many pounds in Wardour-street.
CUSTOM-HOUSE {THE). 305
Tlie marJct on porcelain denote its age and mannfactnre ; bnt there is no such warrant
for genuine old furniture ; and rough work which has just left the carver's hands, and has
been pickled and charred, ante-dated, and even shattered, to imitate age, is often sold
for the ingenuity of the two preceding centuries.
The reriTol of the itrle of Louis XV. haa done much to foster this fidse taste ; and oar collectors,
*Dot content with ransacking every pawnbroker'B shop in London and Paris for old bohl, old porce-
lain, and old plate, old tapeatxy and old f^ameB, even set every manuikctnrer to work, and corrupt
the taste of every modem artist by the renovation of this wretched style."— Hope's Hitt, ArduUctvru
The dispersion of famed collections (as Strawberry Hill, in 1842 ; Mr. Beckford's, in
1845; Stowe, in 1849; and Bemal's in 1855;) is a bene6t, direct and indu'ect, to
Cnriontv-dealers. The taste for MedisBVal art in church-fittiugs and painted glass has
also greatly encouraged this trade, as well as the copying of olden works in new
xnaterials. Certain auction-rooms are noted for the sale of Curiosities : as Christie
and Hanson's, King-street* St. James's, especially for pictures. Phillips's, New Bond-
street ; Foster, Pall-mall ; and Oxenbams', Oxford-street, are known for their sales of
artidea of vertu, and collections, as well as "importation sales." Here the accumula-
tion of a lifetime is often distributed in a week or a day. {See CABYnras in Wood,
pp. 78-81, and CHEL8Xii Porcelain, p. 94.)
The Fox pnbllo-bouse, in Wardonr-street, was formerly kept by Sam Honse, "publican and repab-
fiean,'* who commenced politician in 176S, and became conspicaous in the memorable Westminster
election-oimteBt between Lord Lincoln and Mr. Fox, in 1780 : a pietore, with Fox arm-in-arm with
Hoose, waa lold br Christie and Manaon in 1846. In the window of Harrison, the pawnbroker, 96,
'Wardoar«treet, tne writer remembers to have seen the Ireland Shakspearean M8S. ('* great and impu-
^nt forgery," Dr. Parr) lying for sale npon a family Bible. With Harrison, who was a liberal man,
Sheridan was aocostomea occasionally to deposit his yalnables.
CUSTOM-HOUSE {THE),
LOWER THAMES-STREET, immediately east of Billingsgate-dock, was origi-
nally designed by Da^d Laing : the foundations were laid in 1813, upon piles
driven into the old bed of the river, and extending eastward beyond the site of the
Custom-house, destroyed by fire Feb. 12, 1814, when the greater part of the trade
records were consumed. The northern elevation, fronting Thames-street, is plain ;
but the south front towards the Thames has in the wings Ionic colonnades and a pro-
jecting centre, the attic of which was decorated with terra-cotta bas-relief figures of
the Axis and Sciences, Commerce and Industry ; and natives of the principal countries
of the globe, with emblems of their arts. The dock-dial, nine feet in diameter, was
supported by colossal figures of Industry and Plenty ; and the royal arms by Ocean
and Commerce. Unfortunately, the piling gave way; and in 1825 the re-centre was
taken down, the foundation re]aid, and the Thames front erected as we now see it, by
Sir Robert Smirke. The expense was 180,0002., which, added to the original expendi-
tnre, 255,000/., made the total cost of the edifice nearly half a million, or two-thirds the
oost of St. Paul's Cathedral. The river fii9ade is 488 feet in length, or nearly one
tenth of a mile. It is fironted by a noble esplanade, or quay ; but as the breadth of
this quay is not equal to the height of the Custom-house, its fk^e, which is of
Portland stone, is not seen to advantage from that point, but from London Bridge or
the middle of the river.
The interior contains, besides warehouses and cellars, about 170 apartments,
elaaaififd for oontignity and convenience of the several departments. In the Boards
room are portraits of George III. and George lY., the latter by Lawrence. The Long
Room, in the centre of the building, is probably the largest apartment of its kind in
Europe: its length is 190 feet, width 66 feet> and height between 80 and 40 feet;
hot it is not so handsome as the " liong Room" taken down after the fiulure of the
foundation. The officers and clerks form three divisions : the inward department, with
its collectors, derks of rates, derks of ships' entries, computers of dnties, recdvers of
plantation duties, wine duties, &c ; the outward department, with its cocket- writers,
Ac. ; and the coast department. Here a Trinity-house officer nts for the collection of
lighthouse dues; and here is a constant succession of ship-brokeis and ship-owners,
and their derks, and of skippers and wholesale merchants. Defoe rdates Count
Tallard to have said, that nothing gave him so true and great an idea of the richness
and grandeur of England as sedng the multitude of payments made in a morning ia
the Long Room j since this was sud, the Customs have increased tenfold.
806 CUBT08ITIE8 OF LONDON.
On the ground-floor is the Queen's Warehouse, with diagonnl-rihbed roof. The
cellars in the hasement form a groined crypt, and are fire-proof; the walls 81*6 extraor-
dinarily thick ; and here are kept the wines and spirits seized by the officers of the
Custom-house. The condemned articles are disposed of quarterly by auctions or
" Custom-house Sales," at which the lots are not produced, but have been previously
viewed in the Queen's Warehouse and at the Docks.
The following is sn average daUj/ report of the principal articles passed through the Custom Hoaso»
and issued to the public for consumption ; and to arrive at a year's amount these figures most be mojli-
plied in many instances 300 times : — Anchovies, 1465 lbs.; arrow-root, 101 cwt. ; cattle, 172 ; cocoa and
cofiee, 78,684 lbs. ; corahs, 1042 pieces; elephants' teeth, 396 ; gloves, 2237 pairs; gum, 450 packafrthi;
handkerchicfd, 791 pieces ; hemp, 687 bales ; bides, 780; honey, 17 cwt ; horns, 1600 ; indigo, 274 cht-iitF ;
iron, 6700 ban ; isinglass, 6 cwt.; jate, 636 bales; leeches, 180i. valae; lemon-peel, 20 pipM; litho-
graphic'stones, 953; mann&otnrcs, 6352Z. value; marble, 12 blocks; molasses, 1176 cwC; nutmegs,
414 lbs.; oil, 546 packages ; oil, scented, 810 lbs. ; onions, 800 busheU ; popper, 11,832 lbs.; quicksilver,
4089 bottles; rags, 67 bales; rice, 216 cwt.: sago, 70 cwt; sheep, 66; silk, 882 bales; spelter, 63S
cakes; spirits, 19,876 gallons; siigar, 11,161 cwt; tallow, 327 cwt; tea, 89,742 lbs.; timber, 1900
loads; tobacco, 14,143 lbs.; whale-fins, 279 bundles; wine, 10,766 gallons; wool, 354 bales. Ware-
housed in one day : anchovies, 250 barrels ; butter, 639 casks ; coffee, 2650 bags ; cork, 19 bales ; haniF,
600 ; manufactures. 168 packages ; marble mortars, 60 ; mats, 1000 ; raisins, 750 drums ; rice, 581 bs?; ;
rum. 111 casks; spirits, 654 cases or ca!«ks; sugar, 1346 packages; tallow, 191 packages; tobacco, 9tK)
packages ; tin, 1075 slabs ; timber, 12,635 deals and pieces ; wine, 896 cases or casks.
The present is the fifth Custom-house built nearly upon the same site. Thc^r^^
was erected by John Churchman, Sheriff of London in 1385. (Stow,) The second was
built in the reign of Elizabeth, and appears in the 1543 View of London with several
high-pitehed gables and a water-gate : it was burnt in the Great Fire of 1666. It
was rebuilt by Wren, at a cost of 10,0002. ; and this third House was consumed by
fire in 1718, and was the only one of Wren's buildings that in his long life was destroyed.
Wren's Custom-house was replaced by Ripley, who introduced the " Long Room," and
embellished the river front with Ionic columns, pecUments, and a Tuscan colonnade :
ihiB fourth House was burnt in 1814.
The taxes levied on imported and exported oommodities having been repeatedly altered, to meet
the necessities of the State, or serve political purposes, their amount at different periods is not of
tself a correct test of the increase of trade. In 1613, the date of one of the earliest notices preserved,
the Customs duties collected in London amounted to 109,572Z., being nearly thrice as much as was col-
lected in all the rest of the kingdom (England), the whole Customs duties then amounting to 148,075^.
There are now no heaps of money at tine Custom-house such as excited TaUard'e admlratioQ. The
duties are paid into the Beoelver-Oeneral's Office in the Custom-house, and almost invariably in. paper,
so that only very small sums of metallic money pass in collecting the twenty-two millions.
The value of the Exports and Imports at the Port of London in 1700 wsa about 10,000,0001. ; in 1794
the amount increased to 31,000,0002. London is distingnished among the ports of the world by the
enormous quantity and value of its imports, rather than of its exports, yet the value of the exports
alone reached, in 186^ to alMve 36,000,0002. The gross Customs revenue of the United Kingdom in
1804 was 22,408.2102., of which London contributed 11,491,4122. Thus, the London Customs Duties
are nearly double the amount levied at all the other ports of England put together, and more than
double the amount taken in all Scotland and Ireland.
DAGUJSBBEOTTPU (TEE),
THE first experiment made in England with the Daguerreotype was exhibited by M.
St Croix, on Friday, Septemb^ 13, 1839, at No. 7, Piccadilly, nearly opposite
the southern Circus of Regent-street ; when the picture produced was a beautiful minia-
ture representation of the houses, pathway, sky, &c., resembling an exquisite mezzotint
H. St Croix subsequently removed to the Argyll Rooms, Regent-street, where his
experimental results became a sdcntific exhibition. One of the earliest operators v^ns
Mr. Ooddard. The discovery was patented by Mr. Miles Berry, who sold the first
licence to M. Claudet for 100^. or 200Z. a-year ; and in twelve months after disposed
of the patent to Dr. Beard, who, however, did not take a Daguerreotype ^Offratj until
after Dr. Draper had sent from New York a portrait to the Editor of the PhUosopJdcal ■
Magazine, with a paper on the subject.
With reference to the conditions of a London atmosphere, as regards ite influence
upon Daguerr^otypic or Photographic processes, there are some very peculiar pheno-
mena ; for the following details of which we are indebted to Mr. Robert Hunt, F.R.S.,
the author of many valuable researches in Photography.
The jfeUoip haze which not unfirequently prevails, even when there is no actual fog over tiie town
itself, is &tal to all chemical change. This haze is, without doubt, an accumulation, at a considerable
elevation, of the carbmiaceous matter trom the coal-fires, &c. Although a day may appear moderately
clear, if the sun assume a red or orange colour, it will be sJmost impossible to obtain a good Dagucrr^
^pe. Notwithstanding In some of the days of spring our photographers obtain very fine portrtita
DEAF AND DUMB ASYLUM,— DIORAMA AND C08M0BAMA, 307
or views, it most be evident to all who examine an extensive series of Daguerreotypes, that those
which are obtained m Paris and New York are very much more Intense thsAi those which are gene-
rally procured in London. This is mainly dependent upon the different amonnts and kinds of smoke
diffosed through the atmoeplieres respectively of these cities. At the same time, there is no doubt
the peculiarly nnmid character of the English climate interftees with the flree passage of those solar
rayi which are aotiye in producing photographic change. It was observed by Sir John Herschel, when
he resided at Slough, that a sudden change of wind to the east almost immediately checked his photo-
mphie ezperimento at that plaee, by bringing over it the yellow atmosphere of London : this is called
by the Beruhire fiurmers bligkt, torn their imagining that smut and other diseases in grain are pro-
daeedbyit.
It is a curiooa oircnmstanee^ that the summer months, June, July, and August, notwithstanding the
inerease of Uffht^ are not fkvourable to the Daguerreotype. This arises from the ihct, now clearly de-
monstrable, that the luminous powers of the sunbeam are in antagonism to the chemical radiations,
i&d as the one increases, the oUier diminishes. This may be imitated by a pale yellow glass, which,
ilthough it obstructs no light completely, cuts off the chemical njB, and entirely prevents any photo-
gr^thic change taking place.
DSAF AND DUMB ASYLUM.
THE first Asyliun or School established in Edj; land for the Beaf and Dnmb was
opened in 1792, in Fort-place, Bermondsey, under the auspices of the Rev. John
IWnsendy of Jamaica-row Chapel ; and of the Bev. H. Cox Mason, then cnrate of
Bermondsey. The teacher was Joseph WatsoD, LL.D., who held the situation
upwards of thirty-seven years, and taught upwards of 1000 pupils» who were thus able
to read articulately, and to write and cipher. This tuition was commenced with six
pupils only. In 1807 the first stone of a new building was laid in the Old Eentiroad,
wMther the establishment was removed October 5, 1809 ; when the Society celebrated
the event by a public thanksgiving at the church of St Mary Magdalen, Bermondsey,
the Eev. C. Crowther preadiing the sermon. A memorial bust of the Rev. Mr.
Townsend is placed in the committee-room. The pupils, male and female, are such
children only as are deaf and dnmb, not being deficient in intellect. Other children
are admitted on payment of 202. anually for board; ajojl private pupils are also received.
The tenn of each pupil's stay is five years : they are taught to read, write, draw, and
cipher; to speak by signs, and in many instances to articulate so as to be clearly
poderstood. They are wholly clothed and maintained by the charity, are instructed
in working trades, and in some cases apprentice-fees are g^ven. The Asylum is amply
^pported by the wealthy ; and besides its annual receipts fix)m subscriptions, donations,
and legades, Ac, it has a funded stock. The pupils arc elected half-yearly, without
reference to locality, sect, or persuasion. The importance of this Asylum is attested
V the &et that in 1833, in 20 families of 159 children, 90 were deaf and dumb.
There is also at 26, Bed-lion-square, Bloomsbury, an Institution for the Employment,
^ef> and Religious Instruction of the Adult Deaf and Dumb; who are taught
"^^oemaking, tailoring, dressmaking, shoebinding, fimcy-work, &c., the produce of their
l^bonr being added to the funds of the Society. In the chapel the Scriptures are
^^^po^ded, and church services regularly held, at which the deaf and dumb are ready
>od mterested attendants.
DIORAMA AND C08M0BAMA.
THE Diorama, on the eastern side of Park-square, Regenfs-park, was exhilnted in
'*' Paris long before it was brought to London, by its originators, MM. Bouton and
^^^erre; the latter, the inventor of the Daguerr^type, died 1851. The exhibition-
home, with the theatre in the rear, was designed by Morgan and Pugin : the spectatory
^ftd a circular ceiling, with transparent medallion portraits; the whole was built in
four months, and cost 10,0002.
The Diorama consisted of two pictures, eighty feet in length and forty feet in height^
painted in solid and in transparency, arranged so as to exhibit changes of light and
shade, and a variety of natural phenomena ; the spectators being kept in comparative
darkness, while the picture received a concentrated light from a ground-ghiss roof.
The oontrivanoe was pertly optical, partly mechanical; and connsted in placing the pic-
tares withm the bmlding so constructed, that the saloon containing the spectators
revolved at intervals, and brought in succession the two distinct scenes into the field of
^s**! without the necesrity of the spectators removing from their seats ; while the
"^^^^ry itself remained stationary, and the light was distributed by transparent and
Z2
308 CUBIOSITLES OF LONDON.
movable blinds— some placed bebind tbe picture, for intercepting and cbanging tbe
colonr of tbe rays of ligbt, wbicb passed tbrougb the semi-tnmsparent parts. Similar
blindfl, above and in front of the picture were movable by cords, bo as to distribnte or
direct the rays of light. The revolving motion given to the saloon was an arc of about
73^ ; and while the spectators were thus passing round, no person was permitted to go
in or out. The revolution of the saloon was effected by means of a sector, or portion
of a wheel, with teeth which worked in a series of wheels and pinions; one inan, by turn-
ing a windi, moved the whole. The space between the saloon and each of the two
pictures was occupied on either side by a partition, forming a kind of avenue, propor-
tioned in width to the rize of the picture. Without such a precaution, the eye of the
spectator, being thirty or forty feet distant from the canvas, would, by anything
intervening, have been estranged from the object.
The combination of transparent, semi-transparent, and opaque colouring, still fiirther
assisted by the power of varying both the effects and the d^;ree of light and shade,
rendered tbe Diorama the most perfect scenic representation of nature ; and adapted
it peculiarly for moonlight subjects, or for showing such accidents in landscape as
Eudden gleams of sunshine or lightning. It was also unrivalled for representing archi-
tecture, particularly interiors, as powerful relief might be obtained without that ex-
aggeration in the shadows which is almost inevitable in every other mode of painting.
Ilie interior of Canterbury Cathedral, the first picture exhibited, in 1823, was a triumph
of this class; and the companion picture, the Valley of Samen, equally admirable in
atmospheric effects. In one day (Easter Monday, 1824), the receipts exceeded 2002.
' In viewing the Diorama, the spectator was placed, as it were, at the extremity of
the scene, and thus had a view acro99 or through it. Hence the inventor of the term
compounded it of the Ghreek preposition c^io, through, and arama, scene ; though, from
there being two paintings under the same roof in tiie building in the Begenfs-park, it
is supposed the term was from dis, twice, and orama; but if several pdntings of the
same kind were exhibited, each would be a Diorama, (Black.)
Although the Begent's-park Diorama was artistically successful, it was not commer-
cially so. In September, 1848, the building and ground in the rear, with the ma-
chinery and pictures, was sold for 67502. ; again, in June, 1849, for 48002. ; and the
property, with sixteen pictures, rolled on larg^ cylinders, was next sold for 3000/.
The building has since been converted into a Chapel for the Baptist denomination at
the expense of Sir Morton Peto, Bart.
Dionunai have also been painted for oar theatres by Stanfield and Roberts, the Grieves, and other
artists. Other Dioramic exhibitions have been opened in the metropolis. In 1828, one was exhibited
at the Queen's Bazaar, Oxford-street: in 1829, the picture was "The Destruction of Tork-liinster by
Fire," durhig the exhibition of whien. May 28, the seenery took fire, and the premises were entirely
burnt. In 1841, there was exhibited at the Bazaar, St James's-street, a Diorama, of five laxj^ seene-
of the seoond funeral of Napoleon ; but, thoc
of Arts for the Ceremony," and aocomi
interest. At Easter, 1849, was opened tneuaiiery or luustrauon, m tbe larse
of Mr. Nash, the architect, No. 14^ Regent-street, a series of thirty-one Dioramic pictures of the Over-
Telbin, human figuiee by John Absolon, and animals by J. F. Herring and H. Weir : in pictoresqueness,
aerial effect, characteristic grouping^ variety of incident, richness of colour, and atmosphere aldlAilly
varied with the several countries, this Diorama has, perhaps, scarcely been equalled : it was eihthiten
between 1600 and 1700 times, and visited by upwards of 250,000 persons.
- The CoavoHAKA, thoagh named from the Greek {Koamot, world ; and orama,
view, becaase of the great variety of views), is bat an enlargement of the street peep-
show ; the diflerence not bdng in the oonstmction of the apparatus, bnt in the quality
of the pictures exhibited. In the common shows, coarsely-coloured prints are sufi-
dently good; in the Cosmorama a moderately good oil-pidnting is employed. The
pictures are placed beyond what appear like common windows, but of which the panes
are reall; large convex lenses, fitted to correct the errors of appearance which the
nearness of the pictures would else produce. The optical part of the exhibition is thus
complete ; but as the frame of the picture would be seen, and thus the illusion be
destroyed, it is necessary to place between the lens and the view a square wooden
frame, which, being painted black, prevents the rays of light passing beyond a certain
line, according to its distance from the eye : on looking through the lens, the picture
is seen as if through an opening, which adds very wxuSi to the efiect. Upon the top
L0GK8. 309
of the irame ia a lamp, which illaminates the picture, while all extraneous light is care*
foUj exdnded hy the lamp being in a box, open in front and top.
A Cosmorama was long shown at Nos. 207 and 209, Regent-street, where the most
efiectiye scenes were views of cities and public buildings. Cosmoramas have also formed
part of other exhibitions. At the Lowther Bazaar, 35, Strand, the " Magic Cave"
(oosmoramic pictures) realized 15002. per annum, at 6^. for each admission.
DOCKS.
THE Docks of London are entirely the growth of the present century, and the result
of the vast increase in the commerce of the preceding 25 years, which was as g^reat
as in the first 70 years of the century : a hundred years since, London had not one-
twentieth of its present trade. Hitherto, merchandize was kept afloat in barges, from
want of room to discharge it at the legal quays, when the plunder was frightful-
lightermen, watermen, labourers^ the crews of slups, the mates and officers, and the
revenue officers, combining in this nefarious system, which neither the police nor the
terrors of Execution Dock could repress. At length, in 1789, Mr. Perry, a shipbuilder,
eonstmcted at Blackwall the Brunswick Dock, to contain 28 East Indiamen and 50 or
60 nnaller ships; and in ten years after, the construction of public Docks was
commenced.
The district north and south of the Thames, f^m the Tower to Blackwall, is the
most remarkable portion of London. Here have been formed for the reception, dis-
charge, and loading of vessels, on the north, St. Katharine's Docks, the London Docks,
the West-India Docks, the East-India Docks, the Victoria Docks ; and on the south
the Grand Surrey Docks and the Commercial Docks ; these comprise hundreds of acres
of water, surrounded by miles of walls, and sheltering thousands of ships ; here have
been spent, not simply thousands, but millions of pounds, and all this has been effected
in aboiit half a century. Before there were any Docks, an East Indiaman of 800 tons
was not usually delivered of her cargo in less than a month, and then the goods had to
be taken in lighters from Blackwall nearly to London Bridge. For the delivery of a
■hip of 350 tons, not 70 years ago, eight days were necessary in summer and fourteen
in winter : now, a ship of 500 tons may be discharged without any difficulty in two or
three days. Hie mass of shipping, the vastness of the many-storied warehouses, and
the heaps of merchandize from every region of the globe, justify the glory of London
as " the great emporium of nations," and " the metropolis of the most intelligent and
wealthy empire the sun ever shone upon, and of which the boast is, as of Spain of old,
that upon its dominions the sun never sets."
These several Docks have been constructed at the expense of Joint-stock Companies,
and have been moderately profitable to their projectors, but more advantageous to the
Port of London.
CoiacEBCiAL Docks, Rotherhithe, on the south bank of the Thames, are, upon the
authority of Stow, said to include the commencement of Canute's trench, cat early in
the 11th century from thence to Battersea ; and into which the river was diverted
when the first stone bridge across the Thames was built, temp. King John. The
present Commercial Docks, however, originated in the " Howland Great Wet Dock,"
which existed in 1660, and extended about 10 acres in Queen Anne's time, larger than
the famous benn of Dunkirk. It was then engaged for the Greenland whale-fishery
vessels, next for the Baltic trade in timber, deals, tar, com, &c ; and in 1809 was
opened as the Commerdal Docks. One of the timber ponds covers 7 acres, and will
float above 6000 boards. The Docks, seven in number, extend over 150 acres ; the
ponds will float 50,000 loads of timber, and the yards hold 4,000,000 deals. The cargo
of one timber ship would cover 32 acres, were the deals placed side by side.
East Ihdia Docks, Blackwall, lie below the West India Docks, and immediately
adjoin the Blackwall Biulway and Brunswick Wharf. These Docks, designed by Ralph
Walker, C.E., were originally constructed for the East India Company, and completed
in 1808. Since the opening of the trade to India, they have been the property of the
East and West India Company. Tlieir water area is 80 acres, and their great depth
(24 feet) accommodates vessels of very large size; they have a cast-iron wharf, 750
feet in length, in which are more than 900 tons of metal.
310 CUBIOSITIES OF LONDON.
GsAifD SuBRKT DocES, On the Boath bank of the ThomeB : new works, in 1858,
coet upwards of 100,000/.
St. Eathasiite'b Docks, just below the Tower, were pUnned by Telford, and oon-
stmcted by Hardwick : in clearing the ground, the fine old church and other remains
of the Hospital of St. Katharine (founded 1148 by Matilda of Boulogne, wife of King
Stephen), with 1250 houses and tenements, inhabited by 11,300 persons, were pur-
chased and pulled down : the Hospital and Church were rebuilt in the Begenfs-park.
(See Chvbchss, p. 166.) The IK>cks were commenced May 3, 1827, and upwards of
2600 men worked at them till their opening, Oct. 25, 1828; a labour of unexampled
rapidity. The excavated earth was carried by water to Millbank, and there used to fill
up the reservoirs of the Chelsea Water-works, upon which has been built a new town
south of Punlico. The cost of St Katharine's Docks was 1,700,0007.; or at the
rate of 195,640/. per acre. l%e lofty walls constitute it a place of " special security,"
and surround 23 acres, of which 11 acres are water, and will accommodate 120 ships,
besides bnrges and other craft. The lock from the Thames is crossed by a vast iron
swing-bridge 23 feet wide : it can be filled or emptied by a steam-engine of 200-horBe
power, and 14 feet depth can be made by the gate-paddles in six minutes. This lock is
sunk so deep that ships of 700 tons burden may enter at any time of the tide ; and the
depth of water at spring-tides is 28 feet, or equal to that in any other dock of London :
the machinery of the gates, by Bramah, is very fine. At these Docks was first pro-
vided accommodation for landing and embarking passengers without using small
wherries. The frontage of the quays is paved with cast-iron. The warehouses, five
and six stories high, are supported on cast-iron columns, 8 feet 9 inches diameter; they
have massive granite stairs, huge machinery over the wells or shafts, and powerful
cranes on the quays, so that goods can be taken out at once into the warehouses from.
the ships, and in one-fifth of the time required in the earlier-constructed docks. A
ship of 250 tons burden can be discharged at St. Katharine's in twelve honr8„and one
of 500 tons in two or three days. One of the cranes cost about 2000/., is worked by
ten or twelve men, and will raise from 30 to 40 tons. The vaults below for wino and
spirits have crypt-like arches : " lights are distributed to the travellers who pre-
pare to visit these cellars, as if they were setting out to visit the catacombs of Naples
or Rome." (Baron Dupin,) From the vaultings hang vinous fungi, like dark woolly
clouds, light as gossamer, and a yard or more in lengtli, a piece of which applied to
fiame will burn like tinder ; in the spirit-vaults the Davy safety-lamp is used.
London Docks lie immediately below St. Katharine's Docks, and were opened in
1805 ; John Rennie, engineer. They comprise 90 acres : 35 acres of water, and
12,980 feet of quay and jetty frontage ; with three entrances from the Thames — ^Her-
mitage, Wapping, and Shadwell, where the depth of water at spring-tides is 27 feet.
The western Dock comprises 20 acres, the eastern 7 acres, and the Wapping Basin 3
acres, besides a small dock exclusively for ships laden with tobacco. The two large
Docks afford water-room for 302 sail of vessels, exclusive of lighters ; warehouse-room
for 220,000 tons of goods ; and vault-room for 80,000 pipes of wine and spirits. The
superficial area of the vault-room is 890,545 feet ; of the warehouse-room, 1,402,115
feet. The enclosing walls cost 65,000^. The capital of the Company is four millions
of money. Six weeks are allowed for unloading, beyond which period a farthing per
ton is charged for the first two weeks, and then a halfpenny per week per ton. In
1839 a magnificent jetty and sheds cost 60,000/. ; and in the previous twelve years a
million of money had been expended in extensions and improvements. In 1858 two
new locks were constructed to admit the immense vessels now built : each has 28 feet
depth of water, and they are probably the most perfect works of their kind yet erected ;
engineers, Messrs. Rcndell.
In these Docks are especially warehoused wine, wool, spices, tea, ivory, drugs,
tobacco, sugars, dye-stufl&, imported metals, and other articles. These, except the
wine, tea, npices, and ivory, may be inspected by an order from the Secretary ; for the
wine a "tasting order" must be obtained from the owners. The shipping and people
at work may be seen without any order. Rummage sales are those by order of the
Dock Company, for payment of charges, pursuant to Act 9 Geo. IV., cap. 116, sec 106.
Of the Wine-vaults, one alone, formerly 7 acres, now extends under Qravel-lane,
BOCKS.
311
and oontains upwards of 12 acres : above is the mixisg-lioiise, the largest vat containing
23,250 gallons. The Wool-floors were considerably enlarged and glass-roofed in 1850 :
the annual importation is 130,000 bales; value, 2,600,0002. A vast Tea-warehoose
was completed in 1845 ; cost, 100,0002.; stowage for 120,000 chests of tea. To inspect
the Ivory-warehonse requires a special order : here lie heaps of elephant and rhi-
noceros tusks, the ivory weapons of sword-fish, &c
The great Tobacco-warehouse, "the Queen's," is rented by Gbvemment for
14,0002. per annum : it is five acres in extent, and is covered by a skilfully iron-framed
roof, supported by slender columns : it will contain 24,000 hogsheads of tobacco, value
4,800,0002. ; the huge casks are piled two in height, intersected by passages and
alleys, each several hundred feet long. There is another warehouse for finer tobacco;
and a cigar-floor, in which are frequently 1500 chests of cigars, value 150,0002.
Near the north-east comer of the Queen's Warehouse, a guide-post, inscribed " To
the Kiln," directs you to " the Queen's Pipe," or chimney of the furnace ; on the door of
the latter and of the room are painted the crown-royal and V.B. In this kiln are burnt
all Buch goods as do not fetch the amount of their duties and the Customs' charges : tea,
having once set the chimney of the kiki on fire, is rarely burnt; and the wine and
spirits are emptied into the Docks. The huge mass of fire in the furnace is fed night
and day with condemned goods : on one occainon, 900 Austrian mutton-hams were
burnt ; on another, 45,000 pairs of French gloves ; and silks and satins, tobacco and
cigars, are here consumed in vast quantities : the ashes being sold by the ton as
manure, for killing insects, and to soap-boilers and chemical manufacturers. Nails
and other pieces of iron, sifted from the ashes, are prized for their toughness in
making gan-barrels ; gold and silver, the remains of plate, watches, and jewellery
thrown into the furnace, are also found in the ashies.
Lastly, in the London Docks in brisk times are employed nearly 3000 men : and this
is one of the few places in the metropolis where men can get employment without
cither character or recommendation. At the Dock-gates, at half-past seven in the
inoruiug, " may be seen congregated swarms of men, of all grades, looks, and kinds.
There are decayed and bankrupt master-butchers, master-bakers, publicans, grocers,
old soldiers, old sailors, Polish refugpees, broken-down gentlemen, discharged lawyers'-
derks, suspended government-clerks, almsmen, pensioners, servants, thieves — ^indeed,
every one who wants a loaf and is willing to work for it/'^^Hetiry Mayhew.
The two Companies of the St. Katharine's Docks and the London Docks are now
amalgamated, and have offices in Leadenhall-street, built in 1866.
MiLLWAix Canal and GBAViNa Docks, engineer, Wilson, extend across the Isle of
^ogs, frtnn east to west, with a branch projecting at right angles from the centre.
VicTOBiA London Docks, the, in the Flaistow Marshes, Bidder, engineer, opened
1855, provide a much larger area of water, and will admit larger vessels, than the
other London Docks. The lock-gates, cranes, and capstans, are all worked by
hydraulic power. The first estimate of cost was a million of money. The basin
covers 90 acres, and contains more than a mile of quay and wharfage : contractors,
Pcto, Betts, and Brassey. In the course of the works, various ancient British and
Itoman coins were discovered, some Roman urns, a circular shield of tin, bones of
^^ and some other animals. The ground, which was excavated, consisted of the
<lepo6it of the Thames, which, like a huge lake or sea, formerly covered all the now
green marshes of Essex. The Victoria Docks, from the peculiarity of position, cost
less, it is said, than any hitherto formed.
1
Kames of Docks.
St. Katharine's
London Docks
East and West India Docks inclndine Canal and
Pond
Victoria Docks, estimate lor Works and Land, to
be occupied therewith
Capital.
Area of
Water
Accom-
modation.
Cost
per acre.
£
2,162,800
3.938,310
2,003,000
450,000
Acres,
11
23
112
90
•
£
195,640
140,0^
17,884
C,000
812 CURIOSITIES OF LONBONi
West Ikdia. Docks, the, lie between LimehoDse and Blackwall, and their long lines
of warehouses, and lofty wall, 5 feet thick, are well seen from the Blackwall Bailway.
These Docks were designed by Ralph Walker, C.E., as " the Merchants' Place," in
1799, and were commenced 1800, when the Bt. Hon. William Pitt laid the first stone ;
they were opened 1802. Their extent is (indnding the canal, made to avoid the
bend of the river at the Isle of Dogs) 295 acres ; this canal is nearly three-quarters of
a mile long, with lock-gates, 45 feet wide, and is used as a dock for timber-ships. The
northern or Import Dock will hold 250 vessels of 300 tons each : when originally
opened, it took ten hours to fill, 24 feet deep, though the water was admitted at 800
gallons per second. The southern or Export Dock will hold 195 vessels. Here the ship is
seen to the greatest advantage, fresh- painted, standing-rigging up, colour-flying, &c. ;
whereas in the Import Dock, the vessds, though more picturesque, have their rigging
down and loose, the sides whitened by the sea, and contrasting with outward-boond
vessels. The warehoases will contain 180,000 tons of merchandize; and there have
been at one time, on the quays and in the sheds, vaults, and warehouses, colonial
produce worth 20,000,000/. sterling ; comprising 148,563 casks of sugar, 70,875 barrels
and 433,648 bags of coffee, 35,158 pipes of rum and Madeira, 14,000 logs of mahogany,
and 21,000 tons of logwood, &c. In the wood-sheds are enormous quantities of
mahogany, ebony, rosewood, &c., logs of which, four or five tons weight, are lifted with
locomotive cranes, by four or five men. For twenty years from their constmction,
these Docks were oompulsorily frequented by all West India ships trading to the
Port of London, when the maximTim revenues amounted to 449,421^, in 1813 ; ^nce
the expiry of this privilege, and the depreciation of the West India trade, the
revenues have much declined. The Docks are now used by every kind of shipping, and
belong to the East and West India Dock Company.
DOCTORS* COMMONS,
A COLLEGE of Doctors of Civil Law, and for the study and practice of the Civil
Ijaw, is situated in Great Knight-rider-street, south of St. Paul's Churchyard ; in
the south-west corner of which is an arched gateway, and within it the Lodge of
Porters to direct strangers to "the Commons." The civilians and canonists were
originally lodged in a house, subsequently the Queen's Head tavern, in Paternoster-
row ; whence they removed to a house purchased for them in Elizabeth's reign by
Dr. Harvey, Dean of the Arches ; here they " were living (for diet and lodging) in a
ooUeg^ate manner, and commoning together," whence the college was named Doctors'
Commons : and the doctors still ^ne together on every court-day. This house was
destroyed by the Great Fire of 1666 j when the College removed to Exeter House,
Strand, till the rebuilding of the edifice in Great Enigbt-rider-street, in 1672, as we
now see it, with a side entrance on Benet's-hill, nearly opposite Heralds' College.
The buildings are of bricJc, and consist of two quadrangles^ chiefly occupied by the
Doctors ; a hall for the hearing of causes, &c.
In Doctors' Commons are — the Court of Arches, named from having been formerly
kept in Bow Church, Cheapside, originally built upon arches {see Churches^ p. 183),
and the supreme ecclesiastical court of the whole province ; the Probate Court, which
has supplanted the Prerogative Court; the Consistory Court of the Bishop of London ;
and the High Court of Admiralty : all these courts hold, or held, their sittings in the
College Hall, the walls of which above the wainscot are covered with the richly-
emblazoned coats of arms of all the doctors for a century or two past.
The CoiTBT of AscHES has jurisdiction over thirteen parishes or peculiars, which form
a deanery exempt from the Bishop of London, and attached to the Archbishop of
Canterbury : hence the judge is named Dean of the Arclies. The businefs included,
in Chaucer's time, and down nearly to the present, cases
** Of defiunation and avoiiterie,
or church reves and of testaments.
Of oontracts and lack of Bacraments,
Of usory and simony also;"
beside those of sacrilege, blasphemy, apostacy from Christianity, adult-ery, partial or
entire divorce, &c ; also, brawling and smiting in -churches or vestries : but the
- DOCTORS' COMMONS. 313
mjority of cases were matrimomal, and all these are now transferred to the Divorce
Cooit, and Wills to the Ptobate Court.
The DiYOSCB CouBT, established by the 20th and 21st "VlctoriiB, cap. SB,
whether sitting in the City of London or Westminster, is now the only Court of
original jurisdiction for the trial of causes matrimonial, and for breaking the marriage
tie. There may be from this court an appeal to the House of Lords in decrees of
abnlute divorce ; otherwise the House of Lords only hears questions of divorce, as
one of the members of the Legiskture, which has to pass a spedal Act of Parliament
to effect a divorce.
In the Prsbooatiyx Coubt Wills (nnt'd the establishment of the Cofbt of Pbobats
by the 20th and 21st YictoriflB, cap. 77) were proved, and all administrations grantcAt
that were the prerogative of the Archbishop of Canterbury.
There are several Begistries in Doctors' Commons, xmder the jnrisfUction of the
Anhbishop of Canterbury and the Bishops. Some of the very old documents connected
with them are deposited for security in St Paul's Cathedral and Lambeth Palace. At
the Bishop of London's Begistry, and the Beg^try for the Commission of Surrey,
Wills (mitil the 20 and 21 Vict., cap. 77, the Probate Act) were proved for the respective
dioc6ies,and Marriage Licenses are granted. At the Vtcar-O^neraTM Office and the
FaevUy Office, Marriage Licenses are granted for any part of England. The Faculty
Office also g^rant Faculties to notaries public, and dispensations to the clergy ; and for-
merly granted privilege to eat flesh upon prohibited days. At the Vicar-General's
Office, records are kept of the confirmation and consecration of bishops.
Marriage JUeMum, special and general, if to be solemnized accordiog to the laws of the Established
^aith, sie proenred opon personal application to a proctor by one of the parties : a residence of fifteen
dsjB is necessary bj either I ^
., by either party in the parish or district where the maniiiffe is to be performed. The
cxpeue of aa ordinary license is 2/. 12«.M.; but If either is a minor, lOt. &I. fhrther charge ; and the
Pvtf ippearin^ swears he has obtained the consent of the proper person havine anthori^ in law to
'license for Mori'
^e expense of a Special License is nsoalTy twen^-eight guineas. This gives privilege to marry at any
"^ or place, in prnrate residence. or at any church or chapel situate in England: but the ceremony
^ be perlonued by a priest in holv orders, and of the Established Church. With the marriages of
.^"^ten. including Roman Catholics, Jews, and Quakers, the Commons has nothing to do, their
UttDies bdng obtainable of the Superintendent-Begistrar. A Divorce when sought was carried through
«Qe of the courts in theprofiBssion (according to thediooese), and was conducted by aproctor ; the evidence
w^tnwisos was taken privatcdy before an examiner of the court, and neither the husband, wife, nor any
w the wttneases had to appear personally in court. This is now all altered in the Divoaca Couai.
^ High Coubt op Adhibaltt oonnsts of the Instance Court and the Prize Court.
"Hie Instance Court has a criminal and civil jurisdiction : to the former belong pinicy
uid other indictable offences on the high seas, which are now tried at the Old Bailey ;
^ the latter, suits arising from ships running fbul of each other, disputes about sea-
^^^'> ^ages) bottomry, and salvage. The ^ize Court applies to naval captures in
^^ proceeds of captured slave-vessels, &c. A silver oar is carried before the judge as
*Q emblem of his office. The business is very onerous, as in embargoes and the pro-
^oaal detention of vessels, when incautious decision might involve the country in
^^i the right of search is another weighty question. Lord Stowell, the judge, in one
y^ (1806) pronounced 2206 decrees. l%e Admiralty EegUiry is in Paul's Bakehouse-
^Tti Doctors' Commons, where are kept records of prizes abjudicated. The practi-
^ners in this Court are advocates (DD.C.L.) or counsel, and proctors or solicitors.
The judge and advocates wear in court, if of Oxford, scarlet robes and hoods lined with
^ety ; and if of Cambridge, white minever and round black velvet caps. The proctors
Wear black robes and hoods lined with fur.
The Ck>11ege has a good library in dvillaw and history, bequeathed by an ancestor of
Sir John Gibson, judge of the Prerogative Court; and every bishop at his consecration
"^'kes a present of books.
The Pbikcipal Reoibtbt of the Coubt of Pbobatb is a most interesting esta-
t>Ii8huieDt. Wills are always to be found here, and generally in a few minutes. They
^ kept in a fire-proof " strong-room." The original Wills begin with the date 1483,
'"^ the copies from 1383. The latter are on pardiment, strongly bound, with brass
^P>i and fill the public-room and other apartments. The searches amount to an
814 CUBI08ITIE8 OF LONDON.
enormoas number each year. Some entriei of early wills, enj^roesed by the monks, are
beantifally iUuminated, the oolours remaining fresh to this day.
To obtaiM Perutal of a WUL'-'E.tniag obtained a thilling probate stunp^ apply, on entering tiie
office at the first smaU box or reoese on the rlsht hand, where a clerk, on reoeiymg the stamp, and the
snmame of the maker of the Will required, direete the applicant to the Calendar; whidi are anrangi'd
«hronologica]]j and alphabetically on the left-hand side of the room. A aearch most then be made
throagh these volumes for the entry of the Will : which being found, a clerk at the further end of Um
room, on being furnished with the exact title ana date of the Will, ushers the inquirer into another
apartment, lit bv a skylight, and furnished with a table and benches. Here two derks are seated ; and
the actual Will being brought to the inquirer, he may inspect it at his leisure. He must not, however,
oopy anything fh>mlt»or make even a pencil memorandum; and if he attempt to do so, he will be checked
by the clerks.
To ohUun ihs Oopg pf a ^7U.— Anply to the clerks in ihe room, and they will state the ezitense per
foUo. The order for a copy must be left at the box at the entrance of the office, where the time will be
nftned for the delivery of the oopy within a few days, on payment of the cost To insure oorrectnesa,
the copy is read out to the applicant in the office, and compared with the original will ; and the oopy is
moreover duly attested bT public authority.
Jfiht apfiicaiU nureig de»ire$ to $ee the eopg <if a WUlf the clerk in the outer room, on being shown
the entrv in the CkUendar, will refer him by a written note to an attendant, who will at once bring the
copy to film; the same rules against copying and making extracts prevail here also.
The principal Registry of Wills is open cCaily from 10 to 4.
Within the last five years. Wills, up to the year 1699, have been, on permisaon obtained
from the judge of the Court of Probate, allowed to be inspected or copied for literary
or historical purposes. Under this privil^e, a volume of Wills has been pablished
by the Camden Society.
The WUls of celebrated persons are the CuriosiUes of the place. Here is the Will of
Shnkspeore, on three folios of paper, each with his signature, and with this interlinea-
tion in his own handwriting : *' I give unto my wife my brown best bed, with the
Aimiture." Shakspeare*s Will, which consists of three sheets of brief-paper, has been
carefully cleaned, and each sheet has been placed in a polished oak frame, between
sheets of plate glass. The frames are made air-tight, and on the top of each is a brass
plate, engraved, *' Shakspeare's Will, March 25, 1616," and each one is fastened with
a patent lock. Next is the Will of Hilton, a nuncupative one, the great poet being
blind ; but which was set aside by a decree of Sir LeoUne Jenkins, the judge of the
Prerogative Court. The Will of Edmund Burke is here, leaving nearly every thing he
had in the world to his " entirely beloved, fiuthful, and affectionate wife." The Will
of Napoleon 1., deposited here, has been surrendered on the application of his nephew,
the Emperor Napoleon IIL
DOMESDA T-BOOK.
THE Register of the lands of England, framed by order of William the Conqueror,
the earliest English record, and " not only the most ancient, but beyond dispute
the most noble monument of the whole of Britain" (Spelman), is preserved to this
day in its pristine freshness, fair and legible as when first writt^. It is comprised in
two volumes — one a lar^e folio, the other a quarto. The first is written on 882 double
pages of vellum, in one and the same hand, in a small but plain character, each page
having a double column. Some of the capital letters and principal passages are touched
with red ink, and others are crossed with lines of red ink. The second volume, in
quarto, is written in 450 pages of vellum, but in a single column, and in a large fair
character. At the cud of the second volume is the following memorial, in capital
letters, of the time of its completion : " Anno Millesimo Octogedmo Sexto ab Incarna-
tione Domini, vigesimo vcro regni Willielmi, facta est ista Descriptio, non solum per
hos tres Comitatus, sed etiam per alios." From internal evidence, the same year, 1(^,
is assignable as the date of the first volume.
Although in early times Domesday, precious as it was always deemed, oocasionally
travelled, like other records, to distant parts, till 1696 it was usually kept with the
King's Seal at Westminster, by the side of the Tally Court, in the Exchequer, under
three locks and keys ; in the charge of the auditors, the chamberlains, and deputy-
chamberlains, of the Exchequer. In 1696 it was deposited among other valuable
records in the Chapter House, where it long remained, and was kept " in the vaulted porch
never warmed by fire. From the first depodt of Domesday volume in the Treasury at
Winchester, in the reign of the Conqueror, it certainly never felt or saw a fire, yet
every page of the vellum is brighi^ sound, and perfect." {Sir JF. Pcdgrave.) In making
BBUBY-LANE. 315
Kircbes or traiucript, you are not allowed to toach the text, a mle which has been
kept from time immemorial^ and to which the excellent condition of the record may be
p^ly ascribed.
It is a remarkable &ct that Domesday-Book, which is nsually so minute in regard to
oar principal towns and ciides, is deficient in respect to London. It only mentions a
vineyard in Holbom belonging to the Crown ; and ten acres of land near Bishopsgate,
lielooging to the Dean and Chapter of St. Paol's : yet certunly, observes Sir Henry
EUiSy in his Introdaction to Domesday, no mutilation of the manuscript has taken
place; since the account of Middlesex is entire, and is exactly coincident with the
abridged copy of the Survey taken at the time, and now lodged in the office of the
King's Remembrancer in the Exchequer. Still, a distinct and independent survey of
the City itself might have been made at the time of the general Survey, although now
lost or destroyed, if not remaining among the unexplored archives of the Crown.
The pariah of St. Giles's-in-the-Fields possesses a Book of Record, called Domesday-
Book, which is of vellum, and was made in 1624, by direction of the then Bishop of
London, as a perpetnal parish record ; entitled " Treasure deposited in Heaven, or the
Book of God*8 House ; of things worthy to be remembered in this parish of St. Giles-
iQ-the-Fields, and in the first phice of the church now lately restored, some account.''
TN Aggas's plans, of about 1570 and 1584i, Druiy-lane is represented at the north
•'- end, as containing a cluster of farm and other houses, a cottage, and a blaclcsmith's
shop ; and the lane in continuity to Drury-plaoe forms a separation from the fields by
embankments of earth, something like those of Maiden-lane^ Battle-bridge. It was, in
&ct, a country-road to Drury-place, the Strand, and its vicinity. A low public-house,
l^earing the ngn of the " Cock and Fye," two centuries ago, was almost the only house
in the eastern port of Drury-lane, except the mansion of the Druries.
The Lane extends from the north side of the Strand to Broad-street, Bloomsbury,
«Dd was originally in the " Via de Aldwych," still preserved in Wych-street. At thia
Old was the mansion of the Druries, wherein Dr. Donne had apartments assigned him
^ Sir Robert Drury; and here, in 1612, Mrs. Donne died of childbirth, at the same
^y and hour that Dr. Donne, then at Paris, saw her in a vision pass twice before
"^9 " with her hair hanging about her shoulders, and a dead child in her arms."
nilUain Lord Craven, the hero of Creutznach, became the next owner of Drury
House, which be rebuilt in four stories — a large square pile of brick, afterwards called
Craven House, where the Earl died in 1697. This mansion was taken down in 1803,
^d the gronnd purchased by Philip Astley for the site of his Olympic Pavilion. In
its latter time, the Craven mansion was a public-house with the sign of " The Queen
of Bohemia" — a reminiscence of its former occupancy by the daughter of James I.,
throogh whom the family of Brunswick succeeded to the throne of England, and who is
''^'■pocted to have been secretiy married to her heroic champion. Lord Craven. Craven-
"^^il^gs, erected in 1723, occupy a portion of the grounds of Craven House.
^On the end wall of Craven-buildings was formerlj a fresco portrait of Earl Craven in armour, wiUi a
H^cheon iu his hand, and mounted on his white charger; on each side was an earl's and a baron's
^onet, and the letters " W. C." This portrait was twice or thrice repainted in oil, the last time by
*;^ward Edwards, A.R.A. (Brajley's Londiniaiui, vol. iv. p. 301.) Hayman, the painter, once lived in
ll^Ten-baildinffs; Mrs. Brao^irdle, the actress, had here a house, afterwards tenanted by the equally
^ieorated Mrs. Pritchard ; and in the back parlour of No. 17, Dr. Ame composed the music otQnmu.
'1^0 Cock and Pye public-house (opposite Craven-buildings) above mentioned, still
remain.*, and is now a book-shop. Next door is one of the tew panelled houses exist-
^°g; and the east side of Drury -court, facing the church of St. Mary-le-Straud, is a
^^ge of old houses, apparently contemporary with the Cock and Pye, or probably two
<^nturies and a half old. Wydi-street, which runs at an obtuse angle with this pas-
"^c, likewise contains some booses of considerable antiquity. — ^Archer's Vestiges, part v.
Id the Coal-yard, at the Holboru end of Drury-lane, was bom Nell Gwynne; and in
^aypole-alley (now Drury-court) she lodged when Pepys saw her looking at the
^ce around the Strand Maypole :—
I* lit Kay, 1667. To Westminster, in the way meeting manv milkmaids with their glands npon their
g^s* dancing with a fiddler before them ; and saw pretty Nelly standing at her lodging-door, in Drury-
**ne, in her smock-sleeves and bodice, looking upon one : she seemed a migh^ pretty creature."
816 CUBI08ITIE8 OF LONDON.
Dmry-lane was nobly tenanted till late in the seventeenth century ; but a paper by
Steele in the Tatler, No. 46, represents the lane in its decline; and Gay's propitiatory
lines—
" Ob, maj thy viitae goard thee through the roads
Of Dnuy's muj oourtB and dark aboides t"
are almost as applicable now as at the day they were written : Hogarth has made it
the locality of the *' Harlot* s Progress." Pitt-place (above Princes-street) was the site
of the Cock-pit» the first Drury-lane Theatre. {See Thsatses.)
JEAETSQUAKJE8 IN LONDON
FROM Mr. Mihie^s elaborate Register of Earthquakes in Great Britain,* the most
complete record of its classy we select the mj\jority of the following details of
shocks felt in the metropolis :^
1692, September 8, London and Flanders.
1750, February 8, London and Westminster. Motion of ground from W. to E.
Several chimneys thrown down and walls rent. A shepherd at Kensington beard the
•noise rush past him, and instantly he saw the ground, a dry and solid spot, wave under
him like the face of the river ; the tall trees of the avenue where he was nodded their
tops very sensibly, and quivered. — Fhilos, Trane, vol. xlvi.
1750, February 8, between 12 and 1 p.k., all over Westminster. " Stacks of heavy
chimneys were dislodged, and the Thames became greatly agitated. The barristers
were greatly alarmed, for they thought that Westminster HaU was falling down." —
Walcotf s Weriminster, p. 22.
1750, March 8. Motion from E. to W. ; houses near the Thames were most shaken.
Near London there was a continued and confused lightning till within a minute or two
of the shock ; dogs howled, fish jumped three feet out of water; sound in air preceded
concusnons ; flashes of lightning and a ball of fire were seen just before explosion.
The President of the Hoyal Society (Martin Folkes) stated that he did not on this
occasion perceive that lifting motion which he was sensible of on 8th February, but
he felt very quick shakes or tremors horizontally. A boatman on the Thames felt his
boat receive a blow at the bottom, and the whole river seemed agitated. The Rev. Mr.
Pickering stated that he was lying awake in his bed, which stood N. and S. He first
" heard a sound like that of a blast of wind. I then perceived myself raised in my bed,
and the motion bcg^ on my right side, and inclined me towards the left." In the
Temple Gardens, the noise in the air was greater than the loudest report of cannon.
At the same instant, the buildings indioed over from the perpendicular several degrees.
The general impression was, that the whole city was violently pushed to S.E., and then
brought back again. The sound preceded the concussions, resembling the discharge of
several cannon, or distant thunder in the air, and not a subterranean explosion.
Flashes of lightning were observed au hour (before ?) and a vast ball of fire. At
Kensington, the bailiff of Mr. Fox, at a quarter past five A.ic., heard (when in the open
air) a noise much like thunder at a distance, which, coming from N.W., grew louder,
and gave a crack over his head, and then gradually died away. The sky was dear,
and he saw no fire or appearances of lightning. Immediately after the crack, the
groand shook, and it moved like a quagmire. The whole lasted a minute. — FhUo^
sophical Transactions, vol. xlvL
" At half-past five A.X. the whole dty of Westminster was alarmed by another shock more severe
than the former (Feb. 8), accompanied by a hollow mmbling noise; and numbers of people were
awakened in amazement and fear from thdr sleep. Great stones were thrown ttom the * new spire ' of
Westmina^r Abbey, and fish jumped half a yard above the water; and In several steeples the bells were
straok by chime-hammers. An impostor pretended to foretd an earthquake on a particular day, which
would lay Westminster in ruins; and when the appointed time arrived, the people ran out in crowds
into the country to escape such a terrible catastrophe. The churches could scarcely contain thethrongs
of worshippers. The pulpits and public prints were employed in deprecating God's wrath and csIliD|
a degenerate people to repentance. But, unhappily, it was a devotion as shortlived only as their fesr.
— Walcotf 8 We$tmiHHer, p. 22.
Horace Walpole writes to Sir Horace Mann, March 11, 1760:— "In the night, between Wednesday
and Thursday last (exactly a month since the first shock), the earth had a shivering fit between one and
two; but so alight, that ii no more had followed, I don't believe it would have been noticed. I had
been awake, and had scarce dozed again, when on a sudden I felt my bolster lift up my head : I thought
somebody was getting from under my bed, but soon found it was a strong earthquake, that lasted near
* Notices of Earthquake Shocks felt in Great Britain. By David Milne, Esq., F.B.S.E., M.WJ5.
F.G.S., Ac Communicated to Janteton't Journal, No. 61.
EA8T0HEAP. 317
halt a minate, with a violent yibration and great roarinjir. I nuiflr my bell, my servant came in frightened
oat of his senses : in an instant we heard all the windows in the neighbourhood flmig up. I got up,
and foand people nmninginto tiie streets, bat saw no mischief done; there has been some— two oid
hoaaeM flnnf down, seTenil chimneys, and much china-ware. The bells rang In several houses. Admiral
Knowles, who had lived long in Jamaica, and felt seven there, says this was more violent than any of
them. Francesco jnrefers it to the dreadftil one at Leghorn. * * * It has nowhere reached above
ten miles from Ixmdon. The only visible efflact it has had was on the Bidotto, at whidi, bdng the fol-
lowii^ night, there were but 400 people. A parson who came into White's the morning of emhquake
the first, and heard bets laid on whether it was an earthqoidce or the blowing up of powder-mills,
went away exceedingly scandalized, and said, 'I protest they are such an impious set of people^ that I
believe if the last trumpet was to sound, they would bet puppet^how against Jadgment.'^'
1756^ February 8. About 8 A.M., a shock feit at Dover and London.
1761, Febroary 8. A shock most sensibly felt along the banks of tbe Thames
from Greeuwich near to Richmond. At Limebpuse and Poplar, chimneys were thrown
down ; and in several parts of London, the fumitore was shaken, and the pewter fell
to Uie g^round : at Hampstead and Highgate, it was also very perceptible.
1761, March 8. A more violent shock, between five and six a.m;., the air being
very wtarm, and tbe atmosphere clear and serene ; though, till within a few minutes
pr»%ding, there had been strong but confused lightning in quick succession. The
violence of the motion caused many persons to start from their beds and flee to the
street, under the impression that their houses were falling. In St. James's Park, and
in the squares and open places about the West-end of the town, the tremulous vibration
of the earth was most distinguishable ; it seemed to move in a south and north
^uection, with a quick return towards the centre, and was accompanied with a loud
noise as of mshing wind.
A crazy life-guardsman predicted a third earthquake within a month from the
&bove^ and drove thousands of persons from the metropolis ; whilst another wight
advertised pills *'good against earthquakes."
In 1842, an absurd report gained credence among the weak-minded, that London
would be destroyed by earthquake on the 17th of March, St. Patrick's Day. This
nnnour was founded on certain doggerel prophecies : one pretended to be pronounced in
the year 1203, and oontuned in the Harleian Collection (British Museum), 800 b. folio
819; the other by Dr. Dee, the astrologer (1598, MS. in the British Museum). The
rhymes, with these "authorities," inserted in the newspapers, actually excited some alarm,
>i^ a great namber of timid persons left the metropolis before the I7th. Upon re-
ference to the British Museum, the "prophedes " were not, however, to be found ; and
their forger has confessed them to have been an experiment upon public credulity.
In 1863, Oct. 6, the centre and western parts of England were shaken ; and in London
md the saborbs the shock was slightly felt.
HASTCRSAP.
THIS andent thoroughfare onginally extended from Tower-street westward to the
*^ south end of Clemenf s-lane, where Cannon-street begins. It was the Eastern
Cheap or Market, as distinguished from West Cheap, now Cbeapside ; and was crossed
^ ^h-street-hill, the eastern portion being Little Eastcheap (now Eastdieap), and the
western Qreat Eastcheap : the latter, with St. Michael's Church, Crooked-lane, dis-
"PP^red in the formation of the new London Bridge approaches.
Hr. Kempe, F.S.A., considers Eastcheap to have been the principal or Plrsotorian
gate of the Roman garrison, leading into the Boman Forum ; and in 1831 there were
foond here a Boman roadway, two wells^ the architrave of a Boman Building, &c ; in
Miles.lane, a piece of the Bonum wall, cinerary urns, coins of Claudius and Yespaman ;
and in Bush-lane, remains of the PrsBtorium itself, in fragments of brick, with inscriptions
d^ngnating them as formed under the PrsBtorshipof Agricoku — Oent. Mag, March, 1842.
Custdieap was next the Saxon Market, celebrated from the time of fltzstephen to
^ days of Lydgate for the provisions sold there :
* Then I hyed me into Est-Chepe,
One cryes ribbee of befo and many a pyei
Pewter pottes they clattered on a heape."— Xondba Lgtkpeimf,
^ Great Eastcheap was the Booths Read Tavern, first mentioned temp, Richard XL |
^ scene of the revels of Falstaff and Henry V., when Prince of Wak^s, in
^^>>^K!are's Heniy IV., Ptot 2. Stow reUtes a riot in « the cooks' dweUings " here
on St. John's £ve^ 1410, by Princes John and Thomas, for unceremomously quelling
318 CURIOSITIES OF LONDON.
which the mayor, aldermen, and sherifis were cited before Chief Justice Gasccngne,
but discharged honourably, the king reproving his own sons. The tavern was destroyed
in the Qreat Fire, bat was rebuilt within two years, as attested by a boar's head
cut in stone, with the initials of the Undlord, I. T., and the date 1668, above the first-
floor window. This sign-stone is now in the Guildhall library. The house stood
between Small-alley and St. Michaers-lane, and in the rear looked upon St. Michael's
churchyard, where was buried a drawer, or waiter, at the tavern, d. 1720 : in the
church was interred John Bhodoway, " Vintner at the Bore's Head," 1623.
Maitland, in 1739, mentions the Boar's Head, with " This is the chief tavern in
London " under the sig^. Goldsmith (Etsaya), Boswell (Life of Lr. Johnson), and
Washington Irving (Sketch-book), have idealized the house as the identical place
which Falstaff frequented, forgetting its destruction in the Great Fire. The nte of
the Boar's Head is very nearly that of the statue of King 'William IV.
In 1834, Mr. Kempe, F.6.A., exhibited to the Society of Antiquaries a carved oak figure of Sir John
Falstaff, in the coetame of the tizteenth century. It rapported an ornamental bracket over one side
of Uie door of tiie Boar's Head, a figure of Prince Henry soBtaining that on the other. The Falstaff
was the property of Mr. Thomaa Shelton, brazier, Great £a8tcheap.whoee ancestors had lived in the
shop he then occupied ever since the Great Fire. He well remembered the last Grand Shakspearean
IMnner-party at the Boar's Head, aboot 1784. A boar's head with silver tasks, which had been sn*-
pended in some room in the tavern, perhaps the Half-Moon or Pomegranate (tee Henry IV., act ii. sc 4),
at the Great Fire fell down with the ruins of the house, and was conveved to Whiteeluipel Mount,
where, many years after, it was recovered and identified with its former locality. At a pabUc-hooae,
No. 12, Miles-lane, was long preserved a tobacco-box with a painting of the original Boar's Head Tavern
on the lid.
JEA8T INDIA SOVSS,
OB the House of the East India Company, "the most celehrated commercial Aasoda-
tion of ancient or modem times, and which has extended its sway over the
whole of the Mogul Empire," was situated on the south ude of Leadenhall-street, and
was taken down in 1862.
The tradition of the House is, that the Company, incorporated Deoemher 31, 1600,
first transacted their business in the great room of the Nag's Head Inn, opposite St.
Botolph's Church, Bishopsgate-street. The noaps of London, soon after the Great Fire,
place the India House on a part of its late site in Leadenhall-street. Here originally
stood the mansion of Alderman Eerton, built in the reign of Edward VI., rebuilt on the
accession of Elizabeth, enlarged by its next purchaser. Sir William Craven, lord mayor
in 1610 : here was born the great Lord Craven, who in 1701 leased his house and a
tenement in Lime-street to the Company, at 100/. a-year. A scarce Dutch etching in
the British Museum shows this house to have been half-timbered, its lofty gable sur-
mounted with two dolphins and a figure of a mariner, or, as some say, of the first
Qovemor ; beneath are merchant-ships at sea» the Royal arms, and those of the Com-
pany, lliis grotesque structure was taken down in 1726, and upon its site was erected
" the old East India House," to which, in 1799 and 1800, was built a handsome atone
front, 200 feet long, by Jupp, and other enlargements by Cockerell, R.A., and
Wilkins, R.A. It had a hexastyle Ionic portico of six fluted colunms, from the ancient
temple of Apollo Didymseus, and in the tympanum .of the pediment were sculptured
by Bacon, jun., iigures emblematic of the commerce of the East, shielded by George III. :
on tlie upper acrotcrium was a statue of Britannia ; and on the two lower, a figure of
Europe on a horse, and Asia on a cameL
The interior contained many fine statues and pictures. The new Sale-room approached
in interest the Rotunda of the Bank of England. The Court-room (Directors') was an
exact cube of 30 feet ; was richly gilt, and was hung with six pictures of the Cape,
St. Helena, and Tcllicherry : and over the chimney was a large marble group of figures,
supported by caryatides. The general Court-room (Proprietors') had in niches statues
of Lord Clive, Warren Hastings, the Marquis Cornwallis, Sir Eyre Coote, General
Lawrance, Sir George Focooke, and the Marquis Wellesley. The Finance and Home
Committee-room had one wall entirely occupied by a picture of the grant of the
Dewanee to the Company in 1765, the foundation of the British power in India : here
also were portraits of Warren Hastings and the Marquis Cornwallis; Mirza Abul
Hassan, the Persian envoy to London in 1809, &c Th6 Library contained, perhaps,
EGYPTIAN HALL, PICOADILLY. Sl^
the most; splendid anemblage of Oriental MSS. in Europe, many with illuminated draw-
ings; Tippoo Saltan's Register of Dreams (with interpretations), and his Koran; a
hrge collection of Chinese printed books ; and a MS. Sanscrit tract on the Astrolabe,
of which Chaacer's celebrated treatise is a literal translation, though the poet may have
translated it. from an Arabic or a Liatin version.
The suctioii sale of the materials of the India Honae occnpied five days ; the most valuable of the
contents having been tranaforredto the temporary qnarten of the Indian Government, in Viotoria-atree^
W'^tminiter. There were iJsOOO feet of York and Portland paving ; 4000 feet mn or Portland coping,
rtone sills, 8tringiiig>, cornice, and other stonework ; 2000 feet of sheet copper, 200 tons of lead on the
rooCi, 2000 aqnares of flooring boards ; 1700 doors of all kinds, incladinfr some of solid mahogany ; and
an immenoe variety of other materials, covering an acre and a half of ground. The Mosenm, with
elegantly slender, monlded, and decorated columns, supporting the interior of an arcaded quadrangle,
sannoanted by an onuunental domed lantern, and paved in mosaic work, was a beautifbd example of
Moorish and Indian architecture^ erected about three years previously ttom. the designs of Digby Wyatt :
it cost several thousand pounds, and was sold for 702. 10». The site was subsequently sold for 165,000A,
St the rate of something more than 100,0002. per acre; 10,0002. per acre more than was given for the
site of Gresham Hoose. Hereupon has been erected a vast collection of Chambers, prindpial firont 900
leet long ; B. N. Clifton, architect : the structure is a very fine piece of Italian street architecture.
In clearing the site were found the remains of a Roman boose, at a considerable
depth ; opposite the East India Honse portico, in 1803, was found the most magnificent
^joman tesselated pavement yet discovered in London,
It lay at only 9^ fiwt below the street^ but a third side had been cut away for a sewer ; it appeared
to have been tb^ floor of a room more than twenty feet square. In the centre was Bacchus upon a tiger,
encircled with three borders (inflexions of serpents, comucopis, and squares diagonally concave), and
dnnking'caps and clants at the angles. Surrounding the whole was a square border of a l»ndean of
oak, and looenge figures and true-lovers' knots, and a five-fiset outer margin of plain red tiles. The
]»vement was broken in taking up, but the pieces are preserved in the library of the East India Com-
psDy ; a fragment of an urn and ojaw-bone were found beneath one comer. '* In this beautifbd sped-
men of BooQAn mosaic," says Mr. nsher, who published a coloured print of it, " the drawing, colouni^,
and shadows ore all dfected by about twenty separate tints, composed of tesselke of different materials,
the m^r part of which are boked earths: but the more brilliant colours of green and purple, which
form the dzapery, are of glass. These tesseilln ore of different sizes and figures, adapted to the situations
they oocnpy m the design."
Mr. W. H. Black, F.SJ^., accounts for various discoveries of tessellated pavement
and other remains in the neighbourhood of Leadenhall-strcet, by these places being
outside Walbrook, the eastern boundary of what Mr. Black regards as Roman London.
He contends that these remains, in all probability, belong to the villas of Roman
citizens, in what, until the time of Constantino, were the suburbs of the City. — Froc,
Soe. AnHq^ 1864.
The East India Company beeame an exclusively political institution ; the Act 3 ft 4 WilL IV., pro-
loi^guig the charter till 1864^ debarring the Company firom the privilege of trading. Before this reduc-
tion, nearly 40O men were employed in the warehouses, and the number of clerks waa above 400. The
Bfteen warafaoases often contained 60,000,000 lbs. (above 22,000 tons) of tea : and 1^200,000 lbs. have
^>«en sold in one day. (In 1668, the Ck)mpany ordered *' one hundred pounds weight of good teye " to be
■ent home on specwation !) The clerks' business was very heavy : from 1703 to 1813, the explanatory
natter from the Indian Government filled 9084 large folio volumes ; and f^om that year to 1829, 14,414 ;
and a militaiy despatch has been accompanied with 199 papers, containing 13,611 pages. In 1826, the
patronage of each East India Director tot the year waa estimated at 20,000^. sterling.
The twenty-four Directors received 800^. each, and 5002. for their " chairs," being a
^"ge on the Hindoos of 77(X)2. per annum. Except a few satrapies, cadies, high-
priests, and teachers of hosts, the directors exercised the whole patronage of nomination
to Indian oflice, civil, military, and derictil. Hoole, the translator of Tasso ; Charles
l^mb^ the author of Mia ; and James Mill, the lustorian of British India, were clerks
in the East India House. " My printed works," said Lamb, " were my recreations— my
trne works may be found on the shelves in Leadenhall-street, filling some hundred
foUos."
'Hie Company's Museum has been removed to Fife House, Whitehall. {8ee Mu-
"2trn8, Ac.)
JSaTFTLdN KALL, FICCADLLLT.
This edifice, and a smaller structure in Welbeck-street, are, in single features and
•■" details, the only spedmens of Egyptian architecture in London. The latter was,
** originally erected, the most correct in character, but has since been almost spoiled.
3^e Uall in FiocacUlly conforms to the style in the columns and general outline, as
Seated by the incVm^^ tonis-moulding at the extremity of the front, the cornice, &c. ;
320 CURIOSITIES OF LONDON.
though the composition itself is at varianoe with the prindples of genuine Egyptian
arcbitectare, the front being divided into two floors* with wide instead of narrow
windows to both. The details are mostly from the great temple of Tentyra* with the
Bcarahsos, winged mundus, hierogljiihics, &c The architect's name, G. F. Robinson,
is inscribed upon the fii^ade. The entablature is supported by colossal figures of Isis
and Osiris, sculptured by L. Gahagan. The Hall cost 16,000^., and was bnilt in 1813
for a museum of natural history collected by W. Bullock, F.L.S., during thirty years*
travel in Central America, which was exhibited here until 1819, when it was sold in
2248 lots.*
The Fgyptian Hall contains lecture-rcoms, a hazanr, and a large central room, ** the
Waterloo Qallery." As the Hall has been a sort of Ark of Exhibitions, we enumerate
the CurUmtiea which have been shown here : —
1816. T&« Judament o/ Brutut^ painted by Le Thiere, president of the Acsdemy of St. Lnke. at
Banifb,—WaJt4r^ocMurFaMMng§qfMin«raU amd SkelUthj Cher, de Barde.— JVapo2«cm'« TracdUng^
Ckariot, built for bis Bassian campaiflp, and adapted for a bed-room, dressing-room, pantry, kitchen,
Ac. ; captured at Waterloo : seen at the Egyptian Hall by 800,000 persona ; transferred to the Tnasaod
Exhibition, in Baker-ctreet, Portman-square.
1819. Sale of Bullock's Museum : produce, 99742. 13«.; cost, 90,0002.
1821. Flac'rimile qf tks Tomb qf Paammuthit, King qf Thebet, discovered by Belzonl; eonstnicted
and painted l^om drawings and wax-impressions taken by him of all the oriipinal figures, hicroglr*
phies, emblems, &c.; the two principal chambers illuminated : first day, 1900 admissions, at 2«.6<l. each.
1822. Lavlandert and Reindeer : 1001. per day taken for six weeks. — Fair qf Wapeti, or Elks, from
the Upper Missouri ; and a pretended Mermaid, visited by 300 and 400 persons daily .t
1824u Mexican Mueeum, ancient and modiem.-^E§qKimaux Man and Woman,— Hatddng CJdekene
by Art^eial Seat
1826. Eaih, or Burmeee, Imperial State Carriage, captured by the British in 1824: the coach and the
throne-sect, studded with 20,000 gems, are stated to nave cost 12,6002. at Tmoy.— Model qfSwiUerland,
1826. The Mueieal Sietert, four and six yean old, harpist and piu^tt.—AUar-pieee, by HuriUo. —
The Peeiloramoy views painted by Stanfield.
1827. The Tgroleee Minetrele, four males and one female.
182a Fieturee qf BatOet qf the French Armiee, painted by General Le Jeone.— Sn« DmA qf Vir-
ginia, painted by Le Thiere.— Haydon's Ficiure of Ma Moeh BlecHon in ike Kiwft Bench, bought by
George IV. for 600 guineas, and sent from the Egyptian Hall to St. James's Palace.
1829. Troubadour* (singers).— 7%« Siameee 7tmM,two Touths of eighteen, nativea oX Siam, miited
by a short band at the pit of the stomach—*' two perfect bodies, bound together by an inseparable link.**
1890. Vox Bipartitue, or two voioes in ont.—8culvtwre, by Lough. — TabUamx Viwuvi (ancient pio
tores by living figures).— lf{eAa«2 Boai, or the chin-cnopper, d la Buckhorse.
1831. Modal of ike Tkidtre Frangaie, Paris. — A Cobra di CapeUo, the first brought alive to
Europe.- 2W Orang-outang$ and a Ckin^Hinzee.—A Double-eigkUd Bog, M'Kean, aged e&ht years.—
Bergmegouf'9 Fieture qf ike Firet Sign in Egypt.— Double-eigkted Bog.— The Egyptian Hall converted
into a Bazaar.
1832. Mueeum of Btrueean AntiouUiet.—Boyal Clarence Vate, of glass, made at Birmingham.—
Tke Broiken KotUer, singers, from Switzerlan<r— Haydon's Fieturee ^ Zenopkon and the 10,000 : and
his Mock Eleelion, lent by George IV. for exhibition ; Deatk qf Buelet, Ac.
1836. Viewt qf Forte, painted by M. I>upres8oir.
1837. A Living Male Child, with four hands, four arms, four legs, four fee^ and two bodies, ban at
Staleybridge, Manchester.— If (wjiMraffM.
1838. Le Brun'e Fieture qf the Battle qf Arbela, emboeeed on copper, by Sientpeterr.— Captain
Sibome's Model qf tke Battle qf Waterloo, with 190,000 figures; now in the Museum of tiie United
Service Institution.
1839. Skeleton qf a Mammoth Oa.—Fietorial Storm at Seti, Introducing Grace Darllnc and the * For-
ikrshire Wreck."
1840. Aubuaeon Carpet:— Vng-ka^fuH (Gibbon monkey), from Sumatra.— £»pp2«2ax, or Life and
Property Protector.— Haydon's large Fieture qf the General AnH-Slaverg Convention.
1841. Catlin'e North American Indian QaUery of 310 portraits of chiefk, and 2C0 views of villages,
religious ceremonies, dances, ball-plays, buifalo-hunts— in all, 3000 Aill-length figures, with costuratn
and other produce, from a wigwam to a rattle, filling a room 106 feet long.— The Jftcioiiri Leoiaihan
Skeleton.-^The Great Fennard Ckeeae, presented to the Queen.
1843. Sir George Savier'e Great Fieture qf the Firtt Rtformed FarUawtent, fignres half-Ufe aize.—
Model qf Venice. — ^The Jfapoleon Mueeum.
1844. TheAmeriean Ihoorf, *'Tom Thumb," whose exhibition often realized 126Z. a day; while,
in sickening contrast, in an adjoining room, the pictures of Haydon (to whom Wordsworth wrote
•• High is our calling, friend ") were scarcely visited by a dozen persons in a week. The " Banishment
of Aristides," Haydon's last picture, was shown here, and its faUuie hastened the painter to his awfal
faA.—Nine Qfibbewag Indiana, from Lake Huron, in their native costumes, exhibiting their war-dances
and sports.- GdnRoa Dwaafe.
1845. The Eureka, amachhie for composing hexameter Latin veraes; a practical illustration of the
law of evolution.— Second Exhibition of Captain Sibome's Model qf ike Battle qf Waterloo.
♦ Bullock's " Liverpool Musenm '* was opened at 22, PlecadiUy, In 1806, In the room originally occu-
pied by Astley for his evening performance of horsemanship; his amphitheatre not being rooied until
1780, and therefore allowing only day exhibitions.
t In Mannera and Cuatoma qf ike Japanaae, published in 1841, the above " Mermaid " (the bead and
shoulders of a monkey neatly attached to a headless fish) is proved to have been wuautfactmr^ in Japan
brought to Europe by an American adventurer, and valued at 10002. A pretended Meonoaid was also
exhibited in London in 1776 ; and in Broad-conrti Covent-garden, in 1794.
ELY'PLACE, 321
1840. Pro/, ^fab&r^B Supkotua^ or ipealdnfr aatonurtoD, enuneUtkiff Bounds and words ; played by
)xjt^—KamwufthHon*.—FolarDoff.~-Bo9J€»ma» Famify.— The JRoek SarmonteoH^—CuruMUieB from
AMMtralia.—Pr<ifu9or JRift Foin Fia»ti^uM,—A Dwarf dressed in a bear-skin : the ** WhatiaUf
immediately detected.
1B47. Second J^baiUv ^ Bo^e$m«n (Boshmen), from Southern Africa.— Ifmitfb qf Ancient aitd
Modem Jetiualewi, by Bronetti. — Exiubmom qf Modem FainHngts free to artists.
IMS. Fietum qf Beeent FoUtieal EvenU in Farie.—Tke Mytterioue Xo^y.— Fijnxre of a Bueeian
Xa/jt in veined maeitlee. — BanoanTi Dioramie Fietnre qf the Mi$eieeippi and Mieeonri Sioen, 9000 miles,
ststed to be painted on three miles of oanvas (I) ; sketched before the painter was of age.
18S0. Fanorama of Fremont^ t Overland Soute to Califomia,'-JBonomCt Fanorama qf the yUe, 800
ieet long: repreaenting 1720 mUes distance, closing with the Pyramids and Sphinx.
1S52. March 15. Hr. Albert Smith first gave the narrative of his Ateent qf Mont Blane in 1861, ao-
eompao^ing the exhibition of clererly-painted moTinp; dioramie pietares of its perils and sublimities.
Mr. Smith oontinned to give, at the Egyptian Hall, his popular representations until within a few
dap of his lamented death. May 2S, 1860, the day before he attained the ase of 41
18B0. A ** Miraculous Cabinet," invented and produced by H. Nadouky. This cabinet measures
only 5 feet high, 3 ftet wide, and 18 inches deep : it contains 160 pieces of fhniiture, of the same size as
in ordinary use; namely, ajndgei's-table, with ornaments, books, and 6 chairs; 4 card-tables, 2 Chinese-
tables, a smoking-table^ a lady's work-table, 2 Chinese toilet-tables, a chess-table, 4 work-boxes, 4 flower-
pots with flowers; a what-not* candelabrum, bed with hangings, and a swing-cot; toilet-table,
onbroidery-frame, flower-table, 7 Chinese lamps, 2 Chinese candlesticks, 12 Ihncy boxes, 1 footstool, a
painter's easel, 4 music-stands, dlnlng-table laid with 26 covers; 4 dishes, 28 plates, SO cops, salt-cellars,
Ac.; a chandelier with 12 wax-lights; 9 garden-chairs, 4 csndlesticks; Chinese writing-desk, inkstand
and tuers, rulers, and bell ; tea-tray table, throne, throne-chair, 4 flower-tables ; and a large table inlaid
with ahcll^ glass top, Ac. When the vanous articles were taken out of the cabinet, and spread over
the apartment, the notion of puttiuff them back again into the same cabinet seemed almost absurd.
The Hall was subsequently let for various performances and exhibitions ; including Mr. Arthur
Sketchley's Entertainment; Colonel Stodare's Mystery and Magic; Mrs. Fanny Kemble's Beadingi;
Sjadame Und-Goldschmidt's Concert ; the Exhibition of Chang, the Chinese Giant ; a Fanorama of the
Bolj Land; Exhibition of Mr. John Leech's Sketches; and the Oeneral Society of Painters in Water-
coloan. Here, in the ** Dudley Gallery," was deposited the valuable collection of Pictures bdonging
to the Earl of Dodl^, daring the erection of his own Gallery at Dudley House, Park-lane.
JBLT-FLACS.
A LL that remttOB of this celebrated palace, anciently Ely Hooae, which stood on tho
■^ north aide of Holborn-hill, and was the town mannon of the Biahops of Ely, is the
chapel of St. Etbelreda* already described at page 161. The site is otherwise occupied
^ two rows of houses known as Ely-place, and a knot of tenements, streets, and alleys ;
bot the locality is fraught with the various historic associations of five centuries.
Its first occupier, Bishop John de Kirkby, dying in 1290, bequeathed a messuage and
lune cottages on this spot to his successors in the see of Ely. William de Luda, the
next bishop, annexed some lands, added to the residence, and in 1297 devised them to
the sec, on conation that his successor should provide for the service o( St. Ethelreda's
Chapel. John de Hotham, who died in 1336, planted a vineyard, kitchen-garden,
orchard, &c. Thomas de Arundel, preferred to the see in 1874, re-edified the episcopal
l>aildtngs and the Chapel ; and erected a large gate-house towards Holbom, the stone-
work of which remuned in Stew's time. Ely House was in part let by the see to
noblemen. Here "old John of Gaunt, time-honoured Lancaster," died Feb. 13, 1899;
and Shakspeare has made it the scene of Liancaster's last interview with Richard II*
Following Hall and Holinshed, too, Shakspeare refers to this Place when Richard Duke
^ Olouoester, at the Council in the Tower, thus addresses tho Bishop :—
* "D.qf Olou. My lord of Ely, when I was last in Holbom,
I saw good strawberries in your nrden there;
I do braeech you send for some of them.
B, of Bh, Marry, and will, my lord, with all my heart."
£<cAarrf iiJ., act iii. sc. 4.
•At Ely House were kept divers feasts by the Serjeants-at-Law : at one» in 1495,
Henry YH. was present with his queen; and at another feast in 1531, on making
eleven new Seijeants, Henry VIII. and Queen Katharine were banquetted here with
■^nnptuoQsness wanting " little of a feast at a coronation ;" and open-house was kept
for five days. In 1576, at the mandatory request of Queen Elizabeth, Bishop Cox
leased to Sir Christopher Hatton for twenty-one years the greater portion of the
demesne, on payment at Midsummer-day of a red rose, ten loads of hay, and 10/. per
>onnm ; the Bishop reserving to himself and his successors the right of walking in the
gardens, and gathering twenty bushels of roses yearly. Hatton largely improved the
^tate, and then petitioned the Queen to require the Bishop to make over the whole
pi^perty ; whereupon ensued tho Bishop's remonstrance, and Elizabeth's undignified
threat to <* unfrock" him : and in 1578, the entire profierty being conveyed to Hatton,
Y
322 0UBI08ITIE8 OF LONDON.
Elizabeth ftirther retaliated by keepiiig the see of Ely vacant for ^hteen yean from
the death pf Bishop Cox in 1591.
Aggaa*! map shows the vineyard, meadow, kitchen-garden, and orchard, of Ely Place
to have extended northward from Holbom>hil] to the present Hatton-wall and Vine-
•treet ; and east and west, from Saffiran-hill to nearly the present Leather-lane : but
except a duster of hooses (Ely Bents) on Holbom-hill, the surrounding ground was
entirely open and unbuilt on ; the names of Saffiron-hill, Field*lane^ and Lily, TummiU*
and Vine streets, carry the mind's eye back to this suburban appropriation. The
Sutherland View, 1548, also shows the gate-house, chapel, great bimquetting-hall, &c.
Sir Christopher lived in great state in Hatton House, as Ely Place was now called;
but Elizabeth " which seldom gave loans, and never forgave due debts," pressed the
payment of some 40,000/. arrears, which the Chancellor could not meet ; so it went to
his heart, and he died Nov. 20, 1591. He was succeeded by his nephew, whose widow,
the strange Lady Hatton, in 1598 was married to Sir Edward Coke, then Attorney-
general, but who could not gun admission to Hatton House : she died " at her house
in Holboumc," Jan. S, 1646. The Bishops of Ely made several attempts to recover
the entire property ; but, during the imprisonment of Bishop Wren by the Long Par-
liament, most of the palatial buildings were taken down, and upon the garden were
built Hatton-garden, Great and Little Kirby-streets, Charles-street, Croas-streety and
Hatton-walL During the Interrugnum, Hatton House and Offices were used as a
prison and hospitaL In 1772 the estate was purchased by the Crown; a town-bouse
was built for the Bishop, No. 27, Dover-street, Piccadilly ; and about 177S, the present
Ely-place was built, the chapel remaining on the west side. A fragment of the episcopal
residence is preserved in, and has given name to, Mitre-oourt» leading from Hatton-
garden to Ely-place. Here, worked into the wall, as the sign of a public-house, is a
mitre, sculptured in stone* with the date 1546; which probably once decorated Ely
Ptalace, or tiie precinct gateway.
The stage-play of ChrisH's Fatnon was acted in the rdgn of James I. ''at EUe
House in Holbom, when Gk)ndomar (the Spanish ambassador), lay there on Good
Friday at night, at which there were thousands present " (Prynne's HUirionuuHx,
p. 117, note) ; this bemg the last performance of a Beligious Mystery in England. At
Ely House, sJso, was arranged the the grand Masque given by the four Inns of Court to
Cluurles I. and Queen Henrietta Maria, at Whitehall, on Candlemas-day, 1634>, at the
cost of 21,0002. ; when the masquers, horsemen, musicians, dancers, with the grand
oommittee— including the great lawyers Whitelocke, Hyde (afterwards Lord Clarendon),
and Selden — went in procession by torchlight from Ely House, down Chancery-lane^
along the Strand to WhitehalL
JEXCSANGBS.
THE Royal Exchange, at the north-western extremity of Comhill, is the third
Exchange built nearly on the same dte, for the meeting of merchants and bankers.
The first ** goodely Burse" was projected by Sir James Gr^am, Lord Mayor in 1538^
who submitted to Thomas Cromwell, Lord Privy- Seal, a plan taken from Uie Burse at
Antwerp. This application failed; but the project was renewed twenty years later by
Thomas Gresham, the younger son of Sir James, bom in London in 1519, apprenticed
to his uncle, Sur John Gresham, and admitted in 1543 to the Mercers' Company ; in
their Hall is a contemporary portrait of Sir Thomas Gresham, who was royal
agent at Antwerp to Henry VIII., Edward VI., andEli^beth, and was knighted when
ambassador at the court of the Duchess of Parma. Like other bankers and merchants
of that day, Gresham had his shop in Lombardpstreet, as yet the only Exchange. The
house was on the site of No. 68, the banking-house of Martin, Stone, and Co. : over the
door was Gresham's crest^* a grasshopper, as a dgn, which was seen by Pennant^ but
disappeared by piecemeaL
* The letters of Junes Gresham, in the Paston Collection, are moM with a grasshopper; safBdoit
refutation of a tradition accoanting for the adoption of that heraldic sTmhol by Sir Thomas Oreaham,
firom a grasshopper havins saved nia life when he waa a poor fiuniahea boy, by attracting a person to
the spot where ne lay in a helpless condition 1 Still, it were almost a pity to disturb the popular l^;«nd,
teaobbg, as It simply does, reuanoe upon God's providence.
EXCHANGES, BOYAL. 323
On Jane 6, 1566, the first stone of the Burse was laid in Cornhill, by Sir Thomas
Oresham and several aldermen, each of whom '* laid a piece of gold, which the work-
men picked up." The City had previously purchased and taken down eighty houses,
and prepared the site; the whole having been conveyed to Sir Thomas Gresham, who
** most frankly and lovingly'' promised, that within a month after the Burse should be
finished, he would present it in equal moieties to the City and the Mercers' Company ;
as a pledge of which Qresham, before .Alderman Rivers and other citizens, gave his
hand to Sir William Gkirrard, and drank a carouse to his kinsmen Thomas Bowe.
"How rarely do ancient documents furnish us with such a picture of ancient manners I"
By November, 1567, the Burse was finished. As Flemish materials, Flemish work-
men, and a Flemish architect (Henryke) had been employed, so the design closely imi-
tated a Flemish building, the Great Burse of Antwerp. Two prints, date 1569, and
probably engraved by Gresham's order, show the exterior and interior : a quadrangle,
with an arcade; a corridor, or paium* of stalls above; and in the high-pitched roof,
chambers with dormer-windows. On the east side of the Cornhill entrance was a lofly
bell-tower, from which, at twelve at noon and at six in the evening, was rung a bell, the
merchants' call to 'Change ; on the north side, a Corinthian column rose twice the
height of the building ; and both tower and column surmounted by a grasshopper, also
placed at each comer of the quadrangle. The columns of the court were marble; the
npper portion was laid out in a hundred shops, the lower in walks and rooms for
the merchants, with shops on the exterior. Thus there were the '* Scotch Walk,"
"Hambro'," and the "Irish," *« East Country,"- "Swedish," "Norway," "American,"
" Jamaica," " Spanish," « Portugal," « French," " Greek," and " Dutch and Jewel-
lers' " walks. Long after the opening of the Burse, the shops remained " in a manner
empty ;" when, upon a report that the Queen was about to visit it, Gresham prevailed
^ipon the shopkeepers in the upper pawn to furnish their shops with " wares and wax-
lights," on promise of " one year rent-firee." The rent was then 40s. a shop, in two
years raised to four marks, and then to 41. 10s. a-year, all the shops bang let. " Then
the milliners or haberdashers sold mouse-traps, bird-cages, shoeing-hom^ Jews'
tramps, &c. ; armourers, that sold both old and new armour; apothecaries, booksellers,
goldsniths, and glass-sellers." (Sbwes.) All being prepared, on Jan. 23, 157(K1,
amidst the ringing of bells in every part of the City, " the Queen's M^esty, attended
with the nobility, came from her house in the Strand called Somerset House, and
entered the City by Temple Bar, through Fleet-street, Cheap, and so by the north side
of the Burse, tbroogh Thieadneedle-street, to Sir Thomas Gresham's house in Bishops-
gate-street, where she dined. After dinner, her Majesty returning through ComhiU,
entered the Horse on the south side" (Stow) ; and having viewed the whole, especially
the pawne, which was richly furnished vfitb. the finest wares, the Queen caused the
Bnrse^ by herald and trumpet, to be proclaimed " The Royal Exchange :" —
" Proclnim thioagh every high street of the city.
This place be no longer called a Borse ;
Bat alnoe the building's stately, fair, and strange^
This place be no longer called a Borse ;
Bat slnoe the building's stately, fair, an^ »«.
Be it for ever called— the Boyal Exchange."
Qfteen Elizab«W$ TroubUi, Part 2.— A Flay, by Thomas Hoywood, 1009.
Sb Thomas Gresham died suddenly, Nov. 21, 1579, in the evening, on his return
^m the Exchange ; " being cut off by untymely deaUi, having left a part of his royall
monument unperformed : that is, xxx. pictures (statues) of kings and queenes of this
^d ; and to that purpose left thirty roomes (niches) to place them in." It was then
P'^^posed that before any dtizen should be elected alderman, he shoald be " enjoyned
^ pey the charge of makyng and fynishing one of the forsaid kings or queenes theire
inctnres, to be erected in the places aforesaid in the Exchange, not exceeding 100
nobles (662. 6s. Sd.) ; the pictures to be graven on wood, covered with lead, and then
gilded and paynted with oyle-cullors;" and the Court of Common Council subsequently
made the erection of one such statue a part of the fine for being freed from the office
. ^ Corrupted flrom hakn, German for a path or walk. There Is a enrious tradition, not utsopc
^ nets, that the framework of the Exchange was constructed upon Gresham's estate at RinThaii
^Uisfbrd, SttfTolk, formerly rich in wood; the remains of saw-pits are stUl discernible. The stone,
■utei, troo, wainscot^ and glass, were brought from Antwerp.
324 CURIOSITIES OF LONDON,
of Sheriff. The building was often in danger from feather-makers, and others that
kept shopa in the npper pawne, using " pannes of fyer/' which were therefore for-
bidden by an order of the Court of Aldermen. A print by Hollar, date 1644^ shows the
merdianta in fnll 'Change, with the picturesque costumes of the respective countries :^
«
The Dew-come trsTeller,
With his dteruised ooat and ringed ear.
Trampling the Boorse'i marble twice a day.'
M
The statues, trcm Edward the Confessor to Queen Elizabeth, were thus provided : and
subsequently James 1., Charles I., and Charles II. The statue of Charles I. was re-
moved immediately after his execution, and on its pedestal was inscribed JSxit tyrcm-
norum uUimus ; which was in turn removed, and replaced with a new statue, after the
Restoration. Here also, on May 28, 1661, the acts for establishing the Commonwealth
were burned by the hands of the common hangman.
Gresham's Exchange was almost entirely destroyed in the Great Fire of 1666 ; " when
the kings fell down upon thdr faces, and the greater part of the building after them,
ihefounder^s ataiMe only remaining." Pepys refers to " Sir Thomas Grcsham in the
comer" as the only statue that was left standing. After the death of Sir Thomas
Gresham, the afiairs of the Royal Exchange passed under the management of the
Gresham Committee, as the trustees appointed under his will, with certain members
nominated by the Corporation. Thus originated the Grand or Joint Committee, under
whose direction the Exdiange was rebuilt after the Great Fire upon the old founda-
tions, by Edward Jerman, one of the City Surveyors, and not by Sir Christopher Wren,
as often stated; but Wren was consulted in the project of the rebuilding. Mr. Jupp,
of Carpenters' Hall, possesses two larg^ and beautiful drawings of Jermau's design for
the building, executed in Indian ink upon vellum. Meanwhile, the merchants met
" in the gaitlens or walkes of Gresham College," being the nte of the great court-yard
of the Excise Office ; on which a temporary Exchange was erected for a amilar pur-
pose, after the burning of the second Exchange in 1838.
Amonff the p^menta for Jerman'i bnildinn ii one by the Committee to Sir John Denham, the poe^
"His M^jestie's SnrvOTor-General of his Workea, for his troable from time to time in coming down to
view the Exchange and ctreetea adjoining; as also in ftutherlng tfaeire addresses to his M^esty, and
giving them full warrants for Portland stone ;" the Committee therefore ordered provision to be made
" of nz or eight dishes of meate att the Sun Tavern, on Wednesday next, to intertayne him withal at
his comeing downe, and to present him with thirty goinney-piecea of gold, as a toaken of tbeire
gratitude."
Among other entries, we find that Cains Gabriel Cibber was appointed carver; the dock was to be
aet up br Edward Stanton, under the direction of Dr. Hooke, having chimes with four bells, playing six
tunes; William Wightman was to fhmish a set of sound and tuneable bells, at 61. 69. per ewt; four
balconies were to be made fkrom the inner pawn Into the quadrangle, at a charge of not more than
9002. ; and the signs to the shops in the pawns were not to be hung forth, but set over the Mae of
each shop.
The celebrated Sir Bobert Yiner, on March 22nd, 1668 (1069), proffered to give his Majesty's statoe
on horseback, cut in white marble, to stand upon the Boyal Exchange : this offer was decfinea, becaaie
of the ''bignesse " of the statue, which Sir Bobert Viner afterwards gave to be erected over the conduit
at Stock8'>market ; though the royal figure was an altered John Sobieski.
The Kinff interested himself so (kr in the architectural appearance of the edifice as to desire Uut
portions might be built on all sides of the Exchange; and hence the difficulties which arose between the
Committee and the possessors of the property required ; and In especial with Van Swieten, or Sweetings,
as he is usually called. About seven hundred superficial tact were wanted of his ground at the east end
of the Exchange, and about one thousand four hundred feet more for a street or passage; for which he
declared that he expected to be paid according to the cheapest rate that any ouier sroond shoold be
bought at. When, nowever. he appeared before the sub-committee, he demanaed lOOOl. for six himdred
and twenty-seven feet, which was thought so unreasonable that they laid it aside.
On Oct 28rd, 1667, Charles II. fixed the first pillar on the west dde of the north
entrance to the Exchange. " Tlie King was entertained by the City and Company
with a chine of beef, grand dish of fowl, gammon of bacon, dried tongues, anchovies,
caviare, etc, and plenty of several sorts of wine. He gave 201, in gold to the work-
men. The interteynment was in a shedd built and adorned on purpose, upon the
Scotdi walke." On the 81st, the Duke of York founded the corresponding pier; and
on Nov. 18th, Prince Bupert fixed the pillar on the east side of the south entrance;
both princes being similarly entertained.
This second Exchange was opened Sept. 28, 1669 ; its cost, 58,9622., being defrayed
in equal moieties by the City and the Mercers' Company. It was quadrangular in
plan, and had its arcades, pawn above, and statues in niches, like Greshazn's Exdiange;
EXCHANGES, BOTAL. 825
it had also a three-storied tower, with lantern and gilt grasshopper vane. The edifice
thus remained until the extensive repairs of 1820-26 (George Smith, architect), when
a stone tower, 128 feet high, was hailt on the south fh>nt, in place of the timber one :
these repairs cost 33,000/., including 6000Z. for stone staircases and floors. The Com-
ItiU front had a lofty archway, with four Corinthian columns ; emblematic statues of
the four quarters of the globe ; statues of Charles I. and II. by Bushnell ; statue of
Gresham by E. Pierce ; four busts of Queen Elizabeth ; alto-relievos of Britannia, the
Arts and Sciences, &a, and of Queen Elizabeth and her heralds proclaiming the original
Exchange. The area within the quadrangle was paved with " Turkey stones;" in the
centre was a statue of Charles II. by Gibbons j in the arcade was a statue of Gresham
by Gibber; and of Sir John Barnard, placed there in his lifetime {temp, George II.).
The arcade and area were arranged, nominally, into distinct walks for tho merchants.
" For half an hoar he feeds : and when he's done^
In 's elbow-chair he takes a nap till one ;
From thence to 'Change he harries in a heat
(Where knaves and fools in mighty numbers meet.
And kindly mix the babble with the cheat) ;
There barters, buys and sells, receives and pays,
And tarns the pence a hmidred several ways.
In that great hive, where markets rise and fldl,
And swarms of muckworms round its pillars crawl.
He, like the rest, as busy as a bee,
Bemaina among the henpeck'd herd till three."
WeaUkjf Skopkeept, 170O.
The royal statues were, on the south side, Edward I., Edward III., Henry V., and
Henry VI. ; on the west, Edward IV., Edward V., Henry VII., and Henry VIII. ; on
the north, Edward VI., Queen Mary, Queen Elizabeth, James I., Charles I., Charles II.,
and James II. ; on the east were William and Mary, in a double niche, George I.,
George II., and George III. These figures were in armour and Roman costume, the
Queens in the dresses of their respective times ; most of them were originally gilt.
George III. was sculptured by Wilton, George I. and George II. by Bysbrack, and the
major part of the others by Cains Gabriel Cibber.
Originally, the offices in the upper floors were let as shops for rich and showy arti-
cles ; but they were forsaken in 1739 (Maitland), and the galleries were subsequently
occupied by the Royal Exchange Assurance Offices, Lloyd's Coffee-house, the Merchant
Seamen's Office, the Gresham Lecture-room, and the Lord Mayor's Court Office : the
latter a row of offices divided by glazed partitions, the name of the attorney being in-
icribed in large capitals upon a projecting board. The vaults beneath the Exchange
were let to different bankers; and the East India Company, for the stowage of pepper.
Surrounding the exterior were shops, chiefly tenanted by lottery-office keepers, news-
paper-offices, watch and dock makers, notaries, stock-brokers, &c. The tower con-
tained a dock, with four dials, and chimes, and four wind-dials.
On Jan. 18th, 1838, this Exchange was entirely burnt : the fire commenced in
Lloyd's Rooms shortly after 10 p.m., and before three next morning the clock-tower
alone remained, the dials indicating the exact times at which the flames reached them :
north at Ih. 25m. ; south, 2h. 5m. : the last air, played by the chimes at 12, was,
"There's nae luck about the house."* The conflagration was seen twenty -four mllos
nmnd London ; the roar of the wind, and the rush and crackling of the flames, the
falUDg of huge timbers, and the crash of roof and walls, were a fearful spectade.
At the sale of the salvaffe, the porter's large hand-bell, rang daily before closing the 'Change (with
the handle bornt), fetched 31. 3t. ; City Griffins, 901. and 352. the pair ; basts of Qaeen Elizabeth, 102. \6*,
aad 182. tbe pair ; flgnrea of Europe, Asia, Africa, and America, 1102. ; the statue of— Anne, 102. 69. ;
George II., 92. St.: George III. and Elizabeth, 112. 16«. each; Charles II., 92.; and the sixteen other
rojal statues similar sums. The copper-gilt grasshopper vane was reserved.
Mr. Scott, the Chamberlain of London, states, that if, f^om the Great Fire in 1866, when the first
Boyal Exchange was destroyed, down to 1838, when it was a second time destroyed by fire, a sum equiva-
lent to the fire-insurance rate of 2$. per cent, and S«. duty had been annually nused and allowed to
■ccomalate, it would have been safficient to defiray forty-seven and a half times over the cost of 20O,uOO2,
for rebuilding the Exchange as it now exists.
After an interval of nearly four years, the rebuilding of the Exchange was oom-
* The chimes played at 3, 6, 9, and 12 o'clock— on Sunday, the 104th Psalm ; Monday, '* God save tha
King;" Tuesday, *' Waterloo March;" Wediiesdav. "There's nae luck about the house;" Thursday,
* See tbe oonqnexing hero oomesj" Friday, " Life let us cherish;" Saturday, "Toot-Guards' March."
826 CUBI08ITIE8 OF LONDON.
menced from the dengns of William Tite, F.R.S. ; the site being enlarged by the removal
of Bank-buildings, west of the old Exchange, and the buildings eastward, nearly to
Finch-lane. lu excavating for the foundations was found a deep pit full of remains of
Koman London, specimens of which are preserved in the Museum at Guildhall. (See
COBKHILL, p. 291.) Mr. Tite thinks it probable that " this pit had been sunk during
the earliest times of the Roman occupation of London, fbr the mere purpose of obtain-
ing the gravel, required perhaps for making a causeway or road across the banks of the
adjoining marshy stream of the Wall-Brook. When the excavation had served this
purpose, it remained for years (perhaps centuries), forming a dirty pond to receive the
refuse and rubbish of all the neighbourhood, and in this way it must have been gra-
dually filled up; at the time of building the Roman wall the accumulation was firm
enough again to receive a bed of gravel, slightly concreted, laid on the top of the mud,
so fCB to be covered up and become apparency solid ground. The builders of the Old
Exchange, however, found out its deficiency, and supported their work on piles, which
had evidently yielded." The foundation-stone of the new Exchange was laid by Prince
Albert, on Monday, Jan. 17th, 1842, in the mayoralty of Alderman Pirie ; the drcum-
stances being recorded in a Latin and English inscription upon a zinc plate, placed in
the foundation-stone. The Exchange was completed within the short space of three
years, for somewhat less than the architect's estimate, 137,6002. ; or, including the
sculpture, architect's commission, &c., 150,000/.
The new Exchange was formally opeDed by her Maiestj, Oct 28, IBM, when the Boyal and Civic Pro-
cessions joined within Temple Bar ; the Aldermen in ffowns and chains, and the Lord Major in a crimson
velvet robe, collar, and iewel, on horseback ; his Lonhhip bearing immediately before the Qaeen's state-
carriage the great pearl sword presented to the Cit j of London bj Qneen Elizabeth on her opening the
first £xchange. Ttie procession of 1844 was altogether the most magnificent pageant of the pr^ent
reign. At the Exchange, an address was presented to the Queen, followed by a breakfkst, distribution
of commemorative medals, and a procession to the centre of the quadrangle, where the Queen, surrounded
by her Ministers and the City authorities, said : *' It is my Boyal will and pleasure that this building be
hereafter called ' The Royal Exchange.' " The event was commemorated with great civic festivity ; and
the Lord Mayor, Magnay, received a patent of baronetcy.
The Royal Exchange, first opened for bunness Jan. 1, 1845, stands nearly due east
and west; extreme length, 808 feet; west width, 119 feet; east, 175 feet. The foun-
dation is concrete, in parts 18 feet thick ; and the walls and piers are tied together by
arches, the piers strengthened by beds of wrought-iron hooping. The foundation of
Gresham's Exchange, as just stated, was laid upon piles. The architecture is florid, and
even exuberant, characteristic of commercial opulence and civic state. The leading
idea of the plan is from the Pantheon at Rome : material, finest Portland stone.
The West front has a portico " very superior in dimensions to any in Great Britain,
and not inferior to any in the world." It is 96 feet wide and 74 high, and has eight
columns (the architect's Composite), 4 feet 2 inches in diameter and 41 feet high, with
two intercolumniations in actual prqjection, and the centre also deeply recessed ; the
interior of the portico is strikingly magnificent, in the vastness of the columns, and the
beauty of the roof of three arches, enriched after a Roman palace. Flanking the cen-
tral doorway are two Venetian windows, with the architect's monogram, W. T., beneath.
On the frieze of the portico is inscribed : avko xm. xlizabxthji a. coimrrvx. unrovin.vxcroxu
X. BX8TATB1.TV11: Over the central doorway are the Hoyal arms, by Carew. The k^-stono has the mer-
chant's mark of Gresham ; and the key-stones of the side arches, the arms of the merchant adventurers
of his day, and the staple of Calais. North and south of the portico, and in the attic, are the City sword
and mace, with the date of Queen Elizabeth's reign and 1814 ; and in the lower panels, mantles bearini^
the initials of Queen Elizabeth and Queen Victoria respectively : the imperial crown is 12 inches in relief,
and 7 feet higti. The tympanum or the pediment of the portico is filled with sculpture, by Richard
Westmacott, R^. ; consisting of 17 figures, carved in limestone, nearly all entire and detached. The
centre figure is Commerce, with her mural crown, 10 feet hiirhl upon two dolphins and a shell ; she
holds the charter of the Exchange : on her right is a group of three British merchants, as lord mayor,
alderman, and common-councilman; a Hindoo and a Mahommedan, a Qreek bearing a jar, and a
Turkish merchant : on the left are two British merchants and a Persiim, a Chinese, a Levant sailor, a
negro, a British sailor, and a supercargo : the opposite angles are filled with anchors, jars, pockagt^,
&4S. Upon the pedestal of Commerce is this inscription : " The Eabth is thb Loan's, xtm tux
vuLVXSS THxaxov."— Psalm xxiv. 1. The ascent to the portico is by thirteen granite steps.
The Scui front has four composite columns, which support the tower, in the first
story of which w a statue of Sir Thomas Oresham, li feet 6 inches high, by Behnes;
above are the clock-faces ; and next a circular story, with Composite columns and a
EXCHANGES, BOYAL. 827
dome carved in leaves, Burmoimted by the original grasshopper vane, of copper gilt,
11 feet long ; height of tower and vane, 177 feet. Beneath the tower is the great
eastern entrance to an dUong open area, where are the entrances to Lloyd's Rooms
and the Merchants' Area.
J%« Clock was nunnflutared bj Mr. I>ent in 1848, and has sinoe been prononnced bj the Astro-
ncmer Bojal to be the beet public clock in the world ; the pendolom, which weighs nearly 4 cwt^ is
compensated, and the first stroke of the hoar is true to a second. This clock has Mr. Airey's constroc-
tion of the iroins-Aixee introduced, by which the winding is effected without stopping the motion. This
clock is a great unprovement on that placed in this buUding in Sir Thomas Greshanrs days, respecting
widch it was reported, in 1624^ that " the Exchange docke was pr'sented for not being kept well, it
iUnding In one of the most eminent places in the Cittie, and being the worst kept of any clock in that
7^ Cfttflict consist of a set of fifteen bells, bT Mears, cost 6002. ; the largest being also the hoor-
beU of the dock. In the chimO'Work, by Dent, there are two hammers to several of the bells, so as to
plar rapid passages ; and three and five hammers strike different bells simultaneously. All irKgularity
of force is avoided by driving the chime-barrel through wheels and pinions ; there are no wheels be-
tween the weight that polls and the hammer to be raised ; the lifts on the chime-barrel are all epicy-
cloidal curves ; and there are 6000 holes pierced upon the barrel for the lifts, so as to allow the tunes to
be varied : the present airs are, "Ood save the Queen," "The Boast Beef of Old Enghmd," ** Rule
Britannia," and the 104th Psalm. The bells, in substance^ form, dimensions, Ac, are &om the Bow-
bells patterns ; still, they are thought to be too large for the tower.
TAe South front has a line of pilasters, npon gronnd-floor msticated arches ; the
three middle spaces deeply recessed, and having richly-embellished windows, a cornice,
balustrade and attic. Above the three centre arches are the Gresham, City, and
Mercers' Company arms, which are repeated on the east front entablature.
The North firont has a projecting centre, and otherwise dififers from the south : in
niches are statues of Sir Hngh Myddelton, by Joseph ; and Sir Richard Whittington,
by Carew. Over the centre arch is Gresham's motto, Fortun d my ; on the dexter, the
City motto, 2hte. dirige nos ; and on the sinister, the Mercers' Company, JETonor Deo.
The principal or First floor has four suites of apartments : — 1. Lloyd's, east and
north ; 2. Royal Exchange Assurance, west ; 8. London Assurance Corporation, south ;
4. OfiSces originally intended for Gresham College, south and west.
^^ Ground-floor externally, as in the two former Exchanges, is occupied by shops
and ofiices, each having a mezzanine and basement.
The Interityr conuste of the open Merchants' Area, resembling the cortile of an
Italian palace ; its form, as that of the building, is parallelogram, and the inner area
exactly a double square. The ground-floor is a Doric colonnade, and rusticated arches ;
the upper floor has Ionic columns, with arches and windows, and an enriched parapet^
pierced. The key-stones of the upper arches are sculptured with national arms, in the
order determined at the Congress of Vienna. At the north-east angle is a statue of
Elizabeth, by Watson ; at the south-east, Gibbons's marble statue of Charles II., for-
merly in the centre of the old Exchange, nearly upon the spot where is now a marble
statue of Queen Victoria, by Lough : the sovereigns in whose reigns the three
Exchanges were built.
The encaustic decorations of the Ambulatories havhig become obscured, the plaster-work was
removed In 1659-00. and replaced by firesoo-paintinff, desinied by Sang, executed by Beensen, of Munich.
Above the west and prindpal entrance, are placea the Gresham arms; those of Sir Thomas Gres-
bam, the founder of tne institution, in oomUnation with the arms of the Mercers' Company, to which
he belonged ; together with the City arms. On the panel of the oeiling immediately within this oitrance
sre the Boyal arms. To the right are the national arms of Sweden and Norway ; and proceeding round
by the right, next are the following national and distinguished arms, emblazoned on tne various panels
ja the order :— Prussia, the East Indies, Australia, Brazil, America, Portugal, Naples, Spain, Italy.
ureece, France, Austria^ Holland : followed by those of Brandenburg, Hamburg, and Lubecx, comoined
]^th and succeeded by those of Hanover^ Bavaria, Scotland, Ireland, Denmark, Schleswig^Holstein,
vhina, Turkey, and Russia. Oa. the upper comers of the panels crests of various members of the
Gresham committee, under whose direction the building is maintained, have been placed; their names
^11 be found reconied on a granite dab which occupies the south-west comer ox the building. The
*^*iii>^ panels are interspersea with the Gresham, the Mercers', and the City arms, together with the
mottoes of the two latter, ** Honor Deo "and ** Domine dirige «o«," in numerous designs and combinap
uons ; while above the statues of Elizabeth and Charles II. the Boval arms are asain conspicuous. The
different Walks of the Merdiants and their peculiar trades are in these new decorations much more
'^*dUT recognisable by the coats of arms of the respective countries, and each particular trade is rewe-
^ted according to the ancient custom resorted to by the frequenters of the Boyal Exchange. The
Jcmporary decorations had little or no reference to this important question, but now the coats of arms
^ip the chief ornaments of the large arched panels of the walls, the borders of which are filled with a
'teh Baphaelesque margin upon a purple ground, intersected with emblematic medallions, the main or
c^tral leading colour Ming an amal and sunny yellow of the most cheerfhl hue.
828 CURIOSITIES OF LONDON.
" Here are the nme old-fkvoared ipots, ehiuged though the? be in appearanoe ; and notwithstanduM?
we have loet the great Bothachlld, Jeremiah Harman, Daniel Hardeastle (the Page No. 1 of the Titmea),
the 70unger Rothsehilda occupy a pillar on the louth side of the Exchange, much in the same place as
their &ther ^ and the Barings, the Bateses, the Salomons, the Doxats, the Durrants, ihe Crawshays, the
Curries, and the Wilsons, and other influential merchants, still come and go, as in olden dajs.'*— (Ci/y,
2nd edit.) Many sea-captains and brokers still go on 'Change ; but the ** Walks " are disregarded. The
hour of High 'Change is from i past S to i past 4 F.K., the two great days being Tuesday and Friday for
foreign exchanges.
Lloyd? 9 Subscription Moomt are approacbed by a fine Italian staircaae; tbe stairs
are eacb a single block of Cragleith g^nite, 14 feet long. In the yestibule is a marble
statue of Prince Albert^ by Lough ; a marble statue, by Gibson, B.A., of the late Mr.
Huskisson, presented by his vridow ; a mural testimonial to tbe Times' exposure of a
fraudulent conspiracy in 1851 ; and a monument to John Lydekker, Esq., who be-
queathed 58,000Z. to the Seamen's Hospital Society : it has figures of disabled seamen,
and a scene from the Southern Whale Fishery.
Lloyd's is the rendezvous of the most eminent merchants, shipowners, underwriters^
insurance, stock, and exchange brokers, &c. Here is obtained the earliest news of the
arrival and sailing of vessels, losses at sea, captures, re-captures, engagements, and other
shipping intelligence; and the proprietors of ships and freights are insured by the
underwriters.
Lloyd's originated with a coffee-house keeper of that name, at the corner of Ab-
church-lane, Lombard-street : —
"To Lloyd's Cofree>house, he never fails
To read the letters and attend the sales."— TFiso^My Skopkeeper,l700,
In 1710, Steele dates from Lloyd's (Toiler, No. 246) his Petition on Coffee-honse
Orators and Newsvenders ; and Addison, in Spectator, April 23, l7ll, speaks of the
auction pulpit at Lloyd's: but the auction business was transferred to C^arraway's
Coffee-house. Lloyd's was subsequently removed to Pope's Head-alley, and in 1774 to
the north-west comer of the Royal Exchange, where it remained until the fire in
18S8 ; the subscribers then met at the South-Sea House, till they returned to their
present location in the new Exchange. The rooms are in the Venetian style, with
Roman enrichments. They are: — 1. The Sulwcribers' or Underwriters', the Mer-
chants', and the Captains' Room. The Subscribers^ Boom is 100 feet long by 48 feet
wide, and is opened at 10 o'clock and closed at 5 : annual subscription, four guineas;
if an underwriter or insurance-broker, he pays also an entrance-fee of twenty-five
guineas; admissions and questions determined by ballot, each underwriter having his
own seat. At the entrance of the room are exhibited the Shipping Lists, received from
Lloyd's agents at home and abroad, and affording particulars of departures or arrivab
of vessels, wrecks, salvage, or sale of property saved, &c. To the right and left are
" Lloyd's Books," two enormous ledgers : right hand, ships ** spoken with," or arrived
at their destined ports; left hand, records of wrecks, fires, or severe collisions, written
in a fine Roman hand, in " double lines." To assist the uuderwrito^ in their calcula-
tions, at the end of the room is an Anemometer, which registers the state of the wind
day and night ; attached is a rain-gauge.
On the roof of the Exchange is a sort of most, at the top of which is a fhn, like that of a windmiU,
the ol:|ject of which is to keep a plate of metal with its face presented to the wind. Attached to this
plate are springs, which, joined to a rod, descend into the Underwriters' Boom upon a large sheet of
paper placed against the wall. To this end of the rod a lead-pencil is attached, which slowly traverses
the paper horizontally, hy means of clock-work. When the wind hlows very hard against the plate
outside, the spring, heini^ pressed, pushes down the rod, and the pencil makes a lone line down the
paper vertically, which denotes a high wind. At the bottom of the sheet, another pencil moves, guided
Dv a vane on the outside, which so directs its course horizontally that the direction of the wind is shown.
Tne sheet of paper is divided into squares, numbered with the hours of night and day; and the clock-
work so moves the pencils, that they take exactly an hour to traverse each square : h^ce the strength
and direction of the wind at any hour of the twenty-four are easily seen.
The subscribers number about 1900 ; and, with the underwriters, represent the g^reater
part of the mercantile wealth of the country. (See City, 2nd edit, pp. 108 to 122.)
Above the Subscribers' Room is the Chart-room, where hangs an extensive collection
of mnx>s and charts.
The Merchants* Soom is superintended by a master, who can speak several lan-
guages : here are duplicate copies of the books in the underwriters' room, and files of
English and foreign newspapers.
EXCHANGES. 829
The Captain^ JEioom is a kind of coffee-room, where merchants and ship-owners meet
captains, and sales of ships, &c. take place.
The memben of Lloyd'a have ever been distingnished by their loyalty and benerolent spirit. In
I^ they voted 20001. to the Life-boat subacriptiou. On July 20, 1803, at the invasion panic, they
commenced the Patriotic Fund with 20,0002. 3 per cent, consols; besides 70,3121. 7«. Individual sabscrip-
tioDi,and 15,0001. additional donations. After the battle of the Nile, in 1798, they collected for the
widows and wounded seamen 38,4232. ; and after Lord Howe's victory, June 1, 1794^ for similar pur-
poses, 21,2812. They have also contributed 60002. to the London Hospital; 10002. for the suffering
inlubitanU of Russia in 1813 ; 10002. for the relief of the militia in our North American colonies, 1813 ;
and 10,0002. for the Waterloo subscription, in 1816. The Ck)mmittee vote medals and rewards to those
vlio diftinguiah themaelves in saving life fk^m shipwreck.
Lloyd^s EegiHer of British and Foreign Shipping, No. 2, White-lion-courfe, Com-
hill, was originally established in 1760, and re-established in 1834, and gives the class
and standing of vessels, date of building and where built, materials, &c., ascertained by
carefiil surveys ; but is a distinct body from Lloyd's Subscription Rooms.
The entrance-gates in each front <^ the Exchange are fine specimens of iron-casting,
bronzed. The western or principal gates, cast by Grissell,- are 22^ feet high, 11 feet
4 inches wide. The design is Elizabethfm : on the flanks and around the semicircle,
ve the shields of the twelve great City companies ; in the crown of the arch, Gresham's
anufl) and beneath is his bust, upon a mural crown, backed by the civic mace and
sword ; on the panels are the arms of Elizabeth and Victoria.
The cost of enlarging the site, including improvements and widening of CJomhill,
Freeman's-oourt, Broad-street, and removal of the church of St. Bcnet Fink, the
French Protestant Church, Bank-buildings, Sweeting's-allcy, &c., was 223,578/. la. 10(2.
— CS/y Chamberlain's Return, October 80, 1851.
" Sir Thomas Gresham left the Exchange during the life of his widow to her use ; and at her death,
oe lelt his mansion in Threadneedle-street, since occupied by the Excise Office, for a college, to be called
Oresham College, as a London University, the fhnds for its support being provided by the rents of the
>aop6 snd pawns of the Exchange. By the Great Fire, this source of income was entirely cut off; and
Qot onh so, but the two Corporations of the City of London and the Mercers' Company incurred a debt
of nearlT 60,0002. in rebuilding the Exchange. Thev, notwithstanding, out of their own resources con-
tujoed the College until the year 1745, when the debt amounted to 111,0002. In 1768, the College was
pat an end to by an Act of Parliament, and the site let to the Commissioners of Excise. The Gresham
ino^"^ were always continued, and gave their lectures in a room in the Exchange up to the fire of
XS38. The Gresham Committee have, from their own funds, rebuilt Gresham College, In Gresham-
street, at an expense of upwards of 16,0002. : and the debt incurred by the two Corporations, in main-
tuning the Exchange ana rebuilding it twice, in maintaining the Gresham Professors, and some alms-
noases founded also by Sir Thomas Gresham, amounts now to considerably more than 200,0002."— TT.
A large medal, by Wyon, R.A., bears on the obverse Lough's statue of the Queen m
profile; on the reverse is a bust in high relief of Gresham, in the cap and starched
frill of his period.
. ^ {l>e neighbourhood of the Exchange are the finest architectural objects in the City. Westward
tt tbe Bank of England, an elaborately-enriched pile, very picturesque in parts ; and beyond it are the
^latial edifices of the Alliance and Sun Insurance Offices. Southward is the Mansion House, hi effect a
^u«)To Italian palace. Northward is Boyal Exchange-buildings, an enriched specimen of street archi-
^urc. Before the Exchange portico is an equestrian statue of the Uuke of WelUngton (the last work
nuKidied by Chantrey), placed here by the citizens in gratitude for the Government grant of 1,000,0002.
lor improTements in their ancient &ij. From this spot radiate Moorgate and Prince's-streets ; the
wrmer with Italian t)a2areo offices, less showy but of for better architectural character than Begent-
irlr^K* ^^ ^^fS William-street, highly embellished, but more interesting as leading to London-bridge,
*f nich contests with another structure across the same steeam the distinction of " the finest bridge in
«• world."
Coal Exchakoe. — Three hundred years ago, when the use of coal instead of wood
"^ only just commenced in the metropolis, two or three ships were enough for the
"^Pply* A charter of Edward II. shows Derbyshire coal to have been then used in
^Qdon, though a proclamation of Edward I. shows its introduction as a substitute for
^ood to have been much opposed; and in the reig^ of Elizabeth, the burning of stone-
^ was prohibited during the sitting of P&rUaroent, lest it should affect the health of
^be members. An Exchange for the trade in the new fuel was early established.
The <« Coal Exchange," up to 1807, was in the hands of private individaals ; in that
.^ear it was purchased by the Corporation for 25,600Z. In 1845, the ooal-trade peti-
^oQed for the enlargement and rebuilding of the Exchange. This was done by the
^y architect, J. B. Bunning ; and the new Exchange was opened with great 4clat, by
^nco Albert, accompanied by the Prince of Wales and the Princeas Royal, Oct. 29,
880 cumosirrES of lonbon.
1849 ; when the Lord Mayor (Duke), himflelf a ooal-merchant, reodyed a patent of
haronetcy. The Exchange has two principal fironta of Portland stone, in the ItaUan
style,— one in Lower Thames-street, and Uie other in St. Mary-at-HUl j wiUx an en-
trance at the comer hy a aemicircnlar portico, with Boman-Doric colamns, and a tower
106 fbet high, within which is the principal staircase. The pnblic hall, or area for
the merchant^ is a rotanda 60 feet in diameter, covered by a glazed dome, 74 feet
from the floor. This drcnlar hall has three tiers of prcgecting galleries running round
it ; the stancheons, galleries, ribs of dome, &c. are iron, of which about 300 tons
are naed« The floor of the rotanda is composed of 4000 pieces of inlaid wood^
in the form of a mariner's compass, within a border of Qtreek fret : in the centre
are the City shield, anchor, Ac ; the dagger-blade in the arms being a piece of a
mulberry-tree planted by Peter the Qreat, when he is stated to have worked as a ship-
wright in Deptford Dockyard.
^e entrance vestibule is richly embeUished with vases of Cruit, arabesque foliage^
terminal flgures, &c In the rotunda; between the RaphaeleBque scroll supports, are
panels painted with impersonations of the coal-bearing rivers of England : the Thames,
Mersey, Severn, Trent* Humber, Aire, Tyne, &c. : and above them, within flower-
borders, are flgures of Wisdom, Fortitude, Vigilance, Temperance, Perseverance,
Watchfidness, Justice, and Faith. The arabesques in the first story are views of coal-
mines : Wallsend, Perqy Pit-Main, Begenfs Pit, Ac. The second and third story
panels are painted with miners at work : and the twenty-four ovals at the springing of the
dome have upon a turquoise-blue ground figures of fosi^ plants found in coal-formations.
The minor ornamentation is flowers, sheik, snakes^ lizards, and other reptiles, and
nautical subjects. The whole is in polychrome, by Sang. The gallery-fronts and
other iron-work are cable pattern. The cost of the enlarged site, the building, and
approaches, was 91,1672. lis, Sd,
In a basement on the east side of the Exchange are the remains of a Boman bath,
in excellent preservation, discovered in excavating the foundations of the new building;
there is a convenient access to this interesting relic of Roman London.
CoBV ExcHAKQE (the), Mark-lane, was established in 1747, when the present
system of factorage commenced. It consists of an open Doric colonnade, within which
die factors have their stands; it resembles the atrium, or place of audience, in a
Pompeian house ; with its itnplutnum, the place in the centre in which the rain felL
(W, JET. Leedt,) In 1827-8, adjoining was built a second Com Exchange (G. Smith,
architect) : it has a central Qrecian-Doric portico, surmounted by the imperial arms
and agricultural emblems ; the ends have corresponding pilasters. Here lightermen
and granary-keepers have stands, as well as com-mercluuits^ factors and millers ; the
seed market is in another part of the building.
WednesdsT, and Friday ; hoan. ten to three. Wheat is paid for in bills at one month, and other ooni
and grain in bills at two months. The Kentish ' hoymen,' distingtdshable by their sailor's jackets, have
Ids firee of expense, and pay less for mctasre and at
"This is the onlr metropolitan market for^m, grain, and seeds. The market-days are Monday,
" 7ridi
„ att , „
stands firee of expense, and pay less for mctofe and daes than others ; and the Essex dealers enjoy some
privileges : in both cases said to be in consideration of the men of Kent and Essex having oontinned
to sapply the City when it was ravaged by the Plagoe."— Knighf s Xomtoi, voL ill. p. 365.
King's Exchange (the), " for the receipt of bullion to be coined," was in Old
Exchange, now Old 'Change, Cheapside.
" It was here that one of those ancient officers, known as the King's Exchanger, was placed ; whose
dnty it was to attend to the sapply of the Mints with bullion, to distribnte the new coinai^, and to
regulate the exchange of foreign coin. Of these officers there were anciently three : two in Lcqadon, at
the Tower and Old Exchange, and one in the City of Canterbury. Subsequently, another was appointed
with on establishment in Lombard-street, the ancient rendezvous of the merchants ; and it appears not
improbable that Queen Elizabeth's intention was to have removed this Amctionaiy to what was pre*
Buunently designt
this edifice by Elizabeth."— VT. TUe;FJtJS,
eminently designated by her * the Royal Exchange,' and hence the reason for the change of the name of
No. 86, Old 'Change was formerly the " Three Morrice-Danoers" public-house, with
the throe figures sculptured on a stone as the sigpi and an ornament, {temp, James I.) :
the house was taken down about 1801 : there is an etching of this very diaracteristic
Bgn-stone.
Kew Exohange, on the south mde of the Strand, was built by the Earl of Salisbury
on the site of the stables of Durham House, and was opened by James L and his
EXCHANGES. 581
queen, who named it " the Bnrsse of Britam." It was erected partly on the plan of the
Boyal Exchange, with vaults beneath, over which was an open paved arcade; and above
were walks of shops ooeapied by perfamers and publishers, milliners and sempstresses :
" The sempgtress speeds to 'Change with red-tipt nose."— GST's Trivia, b. ii. 1. SS7.
When, at the Restoration, Covent (harden rose to be a fashionable quarter, the Kew
Exchange became very popular. It is a favourite scene with the dramatists of the
reign of Charles II., and was the great resort of the gallants of that day. At the
"Three Spanish Gipsies," in the New Exchange, lived Anne Clarges, married to
Thomas Batford, who there sold wash-balls, powder, gloves, &c., and she taught gii]a
plain work. Anno became sempstress to Colonel Monk, and used to cany him linen t
"she was a woman," says Lord' Clarendon, "of the lowest extraction, without either
wit or beauty;'' but who contrived to captivate Monk, " old Qeorge," and was married
to him at St. (George's Church, Southwark, in 1652, it is believed while her first hus-
Ittnd was living. " She became the laughing-stock of the court, and gave general
disgust." {Peptfs, iii. 76.) She died Duchess of Albemarle, leaving a son, Christopher,
vbo succeeded to the Dukedom ; he is said to have been ** suckled by Honour Mills,
who sold apples, herbs, oysters, &c" At the Revolution, in 1688, there sat in the
^ew Exchange, as a sempstress, Francis Jennings, the reduced Duchess of l^rconnel,
wife to Richard Talbot, Ic^-deputy of Ireland under James II. : she supported herself
for a few days (till she was known, and otherwise provided for) by the little trade of
this place : to avoid detection, she sat in a white mask and a white dress, and was
therefore known as " the white widow."* Another romantic story is told of the place.
Ii) November, 1653, a quarrel having arisen in the public walk of the Exchange be-
tween M. Gerard (at that time engaged in a plot agidnst Cromwell) and Don Panta-
leon Sa (brother to the Portuguese ambassador) ; the latter next day came to the Ex-
change, accompanied by assassins, who mistaking another person, then walking with
bis sister and mistress, for M. Gerard, seized upon him, and stabbed him to death with
their poniards. For this crime Don Pantaleon was condemned to death ; and, by a
Btraoge coincidence, he Buffered on the same scaffold with M. Gerard, whose plot had
been discovered.
The Exchange latterly became famous for its exhibitions of waxwork, and for a
'■'Ukgnificent stock of English and foreign china kept for sale ; but by the mtrigues,
assig^tiotts, and indecent licenses of the fops with the milliners, the place lost its
character, was little resorted to after the death of Queen Anne, and in 1737 was taken
°<>wn, and the site covered with houses ; the name is retained in Exchange-court.
In the Strand, exactly opposite Itt Bridge (a short dbtance east of the New Exchange site), Thomas
^2^> the **olde olde man, had lodgfngrs, when he came to London to be shewn as a curiosity to
Clttrles I. The aathority for this fact is a Mr. Greening, who in the year 1814^ being then about 90
years of age, mentioned it to the anthor, saving that he perfectly well remembered, when a boy. having
*)Mi ibown the house by his grandfhther, then 88 years of age. The house, which stood at the com-
aeocGinent of the present century, had been known for more than 60 years as the ** Queen's Head*
PQbUc-house.— Smith's SiretU qf London, edit. 1840, p. 146.
Stock Exchakoe, the heart of ** the Bank for the whole world " (BothscMld), is
i& Capel-court, Bartholomew-Ume, facing the eastern front of the Bank of England.
The speculators in stock, who greatly increased with the National Debt, hitherto met
St Jonathan's Coffee-house, Change-alley; then at a room in Threadneedle-street,
Admission 6cl. ; and bargains in stocks were next made in the Bank rotunda. In 1801,
the present building was commenced by subscription (James Peacock, architect), in
C^pel-conrt, the site of the offices and residence of Sir William Capel, lord mayor in
loOl. The inscription placed beneath the foundation-stone states, "at this era the
public funded debt had accumulated in five successive reigns to 552,730,924/. ;** adding
projAtiatorily, " the inviolate faith of the British nation, and the principles of the con-
stitution, sanction and secure the property embarked in this undertaking. May the
blessing of that constitution be secured to the hitest posterity !" The building was
*^P^ed March, 1802 ; and in 1822 the business in the foreign funds was removed here
from the Royal Exchange.
I^e Stock Exchange was considerably enlarged in 1854, at the expense of 20,0007.
* This anecdote was ingcntoasly dramatijed l^ Mr. Douglas Jerrold; and produced at Coventfardea
«>»tw, la laio^ as "The White Milliner."
832 CURIOSITIES OF LONDON.
The fiibric belongs to a private Company, oonsisting of 400 ehareholders ; and the aharea were
origiually of 602. each, bat are now of uncertain amount. The aC^irs of thia Company are
conducted, under a deed of eettlement, by nine "manaffen," elected for life by the >hareboIdera.
The members or subscribers, howcTer, entirely conduct their own aflairs by a Committee of thirty of
their own body. There are three branches, or houses: the English, for stocks and Excheqaer-
bUls; the Foieign, for stocks; and the Kailway or Share-market, a market for mining shares
being added in 1860. Lists are daily published of the prices of stocks and shares, and twice
a week of bullion and foreign exchanges. The members give security to the Stock Exchan^ Com-
mittee, partiT as a guarantee of their own indiyidual respectability, and partly of their good &ith. In
some cases tney give sureties to the amount of 9002., and m others of 600/. or 0002. ; the smaller amount
being required of brokers who have for some time before been recognised clerks of members of the Stock
Exchange ; but in all cases, the time during which such security lasts is limited to two years. The
money received in the event of defalcation by a broker firom his sureties goes solely to the members of
the Stock Exchange ; and the bonds given to the Stock Exchange are required for the protection of
that body only, and not for the public. Each member, as well as the Committee, has to meet the proba-
tion of re-election every Lady-dav. A bankrupt ceases to be a member, and cannot be re-admilted
unless he pays 6«. Sd. in the pound beyond that collected fircnn his debtors. The names of defaulters
are posted on the *' black board," and they are termed *' lame ducks ;" this rule was established in 1787,
when twenty-five ** lame ducks waddled out of the Alley." To avoid a libel, the notice runs thus : *' Any
person transacting business with A. B. is requested to communicate with C. D." Only members are
allowed to transact business at the Stock Exchange, as notified at each entrance; and strangers who
stray in are quicklr hustled out: but a view of the Exchange can be obtained tiuough the grlass-doors
in the entrance from Uercules-court. The brokers usually deal with the jobbers ; and among the
Exchange cries are, "Borrow money?" "What are Exchequer?" "Five with me," "Ten with me,"
making up a strange Babel. " A thousand pounds' consols at 96f-96i." ("Take 'em at 964," is the
vociferous reply of a buyer :) "Mexican at27i-27; Portuguese fours at 32|-S2i; Spanish fives at 21 :
Dutch two-aud-a-halfs at 601^60^ :" and so on till Uie hour for closing strikes. Bailwav companies and
bankers often lend large sums, and bankers are sometimes borrowers, as are also the iSank of England
and were the East India Company. The fluctuations in the rate of interest eigoin " watching the turn of
the market ;" for, on the same di^, money has been lent at 4 per cent, in the morning, and at 2 o'clock
oould scarcely be borrowed at 10 par cent.
The Stock Exchange has had its vocabuhiry of terms for than a century — ^traceable
to the early transactions in the stock of the East India Company.
A Bull is one who speculates for a rise; whereas a Btar is he who speculates for a&ll. The B^l
would, for instance, buy 100,0002. consols for the account, with the object of selling them again during
the intervening time at a higher price. The Beart on the contrary, would s^ the 100,0002. stock (which,
however, he docs not possess) for the same time, with the view of buying in and balancing the trans-
action at a lower price than that at which he originally sold them. If consols fall, the BuU finds him-
self on tlie wrong side of the hedge ; and if they rise, the poor Bear is oompelled to buy in his stock at
a sacrifice.— 7A« dig. 2nd edit.
Certain of the legitimate dealers and brokers, originally formed themselves into a Stock
Exchouffe, on the principle of admitting only those who could give assurance of their reipecta' ility,
and of dismissing summarily any of their own body who should be guilty of irregularity. On the whole,
the scheme lias worked greatly to the public advantage, and has rendered the London Money-market
the resort of all the world. Notwithstanding the transactions are so enormous, the aipounts so
large, and the confidence reposed so unlimited, the instances of delinquency in the members are sur-
prisingly few. Nevertheless, the reminiscences of the "Alley." together with the equivocal conduct of
the " stags " who haunt its purlieus, still attach, though ui^jnstly, to the Stock Exchange itself. The
benevolence and charity of the members are well known : in any sudden calamity, the Stock Exchange
men are always amongst the first to succour the aflUcted. There is, moreover, a fond subscribed by
the members for their decayed associates, the invested capital of which, exclusive of annual contribu-
tions, amounts to upwards of 60,0001. — The Builder.
The Stock Exchange has many startling episodes of &aud and panic, rise and ruin*
Speculation often produces permanent benefit to the public : to the fever of 1807 and
1808, London owes Vauxhall and Waterloo Bridges. Late in Napoleon's career the
funds varied 8 and 10 per cent, within an honr ; but the immediate effect of the battle
of Waterloo news on the ftinds was only 8 per cent. : the decrease of the public expen-
diture was two miUious per month. At the panic of 1825, which more affected the
public funds than did the news of Napoleon's escape from Elba, the extrance to the
Stock Exchange became so choked up, that a fine .of hi, was imposed upon each person
who stopped the way. Pigeon-expresses for the earliest intelligence were chiefly worked
from May to September ; the birds generally used were the Antwerp breed, strong on
the wing, and fully feathered : they are, however, superseded by the electric telegraph
and the cable. Exchequer-bills let in fraud the year after their creation. The last fraud
in Exchequer-bills was that committed by Beaumont Smith, chief clerk in the Audit
Office, and the victim of Rapallo, an Italian jobber.
Political hoaxes, from the reported death of Queen Anne to the fraud of 1814, in
which Xx)rd Cochrane was implicated, chequer the Stock-Exchange chronicles; and
victims flit about its gates — ^from the Goldsmids, whose credit was whispered away by
envy, to the poor Miss Whitehead, whose wits were turned to melancholy by the
forgeries of her brother. The recollection of large loans raised here reminds one of
EXCHANGE-ALLEY— EXCISE OFFICE (THE) 833
the mighty power which reigns supreme on this very spot, once the most opulent part
of Roman London.
** The warlike powor of mrery oountiy depends on their Three>per-Cent8. If CsMar were to re-appear
oo earth, Wettenludl's List would be more important than his Commentaries ; Bothachild wonld open
mdshnt the Temple of Janns: Thomas Baring, or Bates, woold probably command the Tenth Legion t
and tiie loldien would march to battle with loud cries of * Sorip and Omnium reduced 1' ' Consols and
Oetar I' "— JSev. SjfdnM SmUh,
The most remarkable man amonsr the stockbrokers of our time was the Iste Mr. Frands Baily, F.R.S.,
the astronomer, who retired from the Stock Exchange^ in 1826. In 1838, in the garden of his house,
Tavistoek-place, Bussell-aquare^ was constructed a small observatory, wherein Mr. Baily repeated the
" Cavendi^ experiment,** the OoTemroent hsTing (pranted 6002. towuds the expense of the apparatus.
&c. This is the building in which the earth was weighed, and its balk and figure calculated : the standara
measure of the British nation perpetuated, and the pendulum experiments rescued from then: chief source
of inaocmw^. Mr. Bally died President of the Astronomical Society, in 18Mb
The Stock Exchange, as rebuilt by AUason, architect, 1853, stands in the centre of
the block of buildings fronting Bartholomew-lane, Threadneedle-street, Old Broad-
street, and Throgmorton-street. The prindpal entrance is from Bartholomew-lane,
through Capel-eourt : there are also three entrances from Throgmorton-street and
one firom Threadneedle-street. The area of the new house is about 75 squares, and it
wonld contain 1100 or 1200 members : there are, however, seldom more than half that
number present. The site is very irregular, and has enforced some peculiar construc-
tion in covering it, into which iron enters largely. For the cupola, laminated ribs are
used. The vault which covers the centre of the building, 89 feet in span, is of timber
and iron. The whole of this, together with the dome, &c., is covered with lead to the
extent of about 80 tons. The vitiated air is got rid of by an extracting- chamber on
the apex of the dome, heated by a sunbumer with 500 jets : during the day the snn-
l>amer is concealed from view by a perforated sliding metal screen ; but, when required,
sufficient illuminating power is to be obtained by withdrawing the screen, to light up
the house without further burners. — The Builder,
EXCHANQE^ALLEY.
'pXCHANGE-ALLEY now 'Change-alley, between Ko. 2^ ComhiU, and No. 70,
-^ Lombard-street, is described by Strype as " a place of a very considerable concourse
of merchants^ seafiying men, and other traders, occasioned by the great coffee-houses that
stand there. Chiefly now brokers, and such as deal in the buying and selling of stocks,
frequent it." Thither Jews and Qentiles migrated in 1700 : for a century it was the
focus of all the monetary operations of England, and in g^eat part of Europe; and
even to this hour, the Stock Exchange bears the generic designation of '* the ^ey."
It was the great arena of the South-Sea Bubble of 1720. In a print called the
"Bubblers' Melody" are "stock-jobbing cards, or the humours of 'Change-alley."
" The headlong fool that wants to be a swopper
Of gold and silver coin for English copper,
MaY in 'Change-alley prove himself an ass,
And give rich metal for adulterate brass."
Nitu of Bearii, m a Pack qf BnbbU CSemZf.
1766 was a South-Sea year in East India stock, when patriots were made or marred
^ jobbing : " from the Alley to the House," said Walpole, " is like a path of ants."
J' The centre of the Jobbing is in the kingdom of Exchange-all^ and its a^acencies. The limits are
^Swy surrounded in about a minute and a hali^ viz., stepping out of Jonathan's into the Alley, you turn
70^ face foil south ; moving on a few paces, and then turning dne east, you advance to Garrawav's i
^Y^ theaee^ goinff out at the other door, you f^ on still east into Birchin-lane ; and then halting a lUtle
utht Sword-blade Bank, to do much mischief in fewest words, yon immediately f^ue to the north,
^ter Corahill, visit two or three petty provinces there in your way west ; and thus having boxed your
®<^P«8, and sailed round the whole stock-Jobbfaig globe, tou turn into Jonathan's again ; and so, as
noet of the gteat follies of life oblige us to do, you end Just where you b^gan.*'— 2n# Anatomy qf
^^f^ng^^aOeg, 1719.
EXCISE OFFICE (THE), '
rVLB Broad-street (Dance, sen., architect), occupies the site of Gresham College^
^ which the Gresham trustees sold, in 1768, to the Crown for a perpetual rent of
^^< per annum ; when 18,000^. was also paid out of the Gresham fund to the Com-
^inoners towards pulling down the College, and building an Excise Office ! (Burffon.)
^e butiness was removed in 1848 to the Inland Bevenue Office, Somerset House. In
334 CURIOSITIES OF LONDON.
the ooarb-yard of the Broad-street Excise Office a temporary Exchange was pat ap for
the merchants in 1838 ; and was need daring the rebuilding of the Boyal Exchange.
(See GBB8HAX Ck>LLBOE, p. 274.)
The Excise system was established by the Long Parliament, in 1643, to ruse fands
for the war against the King I The Commissioners first sat in Haberdashers' Hall, and
then at their office in Smithfield, which was taken down in 1647, the mob carrying off
the materials in triumph. In 1680, the office was at Cockaigne House, formerly the
mansion of Eliah, the brother of Dr. William Harvey, the illustrator of the Circulation
of the Blood. Thence the Excise Office was removed to Sir John Frederick's mansion.
Old Jewry ; and then to Old Broad-street.
SXETER HALL,
NO. 372, on the north side of the Strand, a large proprietary establishment, was
commenced in 1829 (Gtendy Deering, architect), and was originally intended for
religious and charitable Societies, and their meetings. It has a narrow frontage in
the Strand, but the premises extend in the rear nearly from Burldgh-street to Exeter-
street. The Strand entrance is GrsBCO-Corinthian, and has two columns and pilasters,
and the word 4IAAAEA4EI0N (Loving Brothers) sculptured in the attic A doable
staircase leads to the Great Hall, beneath which are a smaller one, and passages leading
to the offices of several Societies.
The Great Hall, opened in 1831, is now used for the "May Meetings^ of religious
sodeties, and for the Sacred Harmonic Society's and other concerts. This Hall has
been twice enlarged, is now 181 ft. 6 in. long, 76 ft. 9 in. wide, and 45 ft. high, and will
accommodate upwards of 8000 persons. At the east end is an organ and orchestra, the
property of the Sacred Harmonic Society; at the west end is a large gallery, extending
partly along the sides ; and on the floor are seats riring in part amphitheatrically ; also
a platform for the speakers, and a large carved chair. In 1850, the area of the hall
was lengthened nearly forty feet ; the flat-panelled ceiling was aUo removed, and a
coved one inserted, without disturbing the dating in the roof; S. W. Daukes, archi-
tect. Nearly eighty tons of iron were introduced into the roof, which, with the new
ceiling, is one-third less weight than the original roof.
Thus the ceiling gained 15 feet in height at the ends, and 12 feet in the centre ; and
the sound and ventilation are much improved. The Orchestra is on the acoustic prin-
ciple successfully adopted by Mr. Costa at the Philharmonic Society ; it is 76 feet wide,
11 feet more than the Birmingham Town-Hall orchestra. Every member can see the
conductor ; the organ-player sees his baton in a glass, among the phalanx of instrumental-
ists. The works of Handel, Haydn, and Mozart are here given with mighty effect ; and
Spohr and Mendelssohn have here conducted their own productions. The Organ^
built by Walker in 1840, is 30 feet wide and 40 feet high: it has 2187 pipes; the
longest are 20 feet from the base, diameter 15 inches, weight of each 4 cwt. ; in g^ding
one-half of each pipe 750 leaves of gold were used : there are three rows <^ keys and
two octaves of pedals.
From April to the end of May, various Sodeties hold their anniversary meetings at
Exeter Hall. The smaller hall holds about 1000 persons, and a thud hall 250, Haydon
has painted the Meeting of Anti-Slavery Delegates in the Great HaU, June 12, 1810,
under the presidency of the venerable Thomas Clarkson, then in his 81st year. On
June 1, 1840, Prince Albert presided in the Great HaU at the flrst public meeting of
the Sodety for the Extinction of the Slave Trade, this bdng the Prince's first ap-
pearance at any public meeting in England.
Exeter Hall, with its various religious and benevolent aggregations^ is one field with
many encampments of distinct tribes. " Wesleyan, Church, Baptist missionary socie-
ties, all maintain a certain degree of reserve towards each other, all are jealous of the
claims of rival sects, and yet all are attracted by a common sense of religious earnest-
ness. The independent and often mutually repelling bodies who congregate in Exeter
Hall are ne in spirit, with all their differences. Without a pervading organizatioD,
they are a church."— -/Sjptfc^ator newspaper.
Mr. Hullah's system of popular Singing was formerly illustrated here, when 2000
pupils combined their voices in the performances.
JEXETEB HOUSE AND 'OEANQE-'FETTEBrLANE. 335
JEXJETER SOUSE AI^D EXETER 'CHANGE,
E1£T£R 'CHANOE ib now only kept in remembrance by a dock-dial, inscribed
with its name in place of flgoresy upon the attic-front of the bonse No. 858, east*
mrd of the 'Change nte^ on the north side of the Strand. Here was formerly the
panonage-hoaae of the pariah of St. Martin, with a garden, and a dose for the parson's
hone; till Sir Thomas Fftlmer (temp. Edward VI.) obtained it by composition, and
began to baild here " a magnificent honae of brick and timber" {Stow), Bat npon his
attainder for high treason (1 Qneen Mary), the property reverted to the Crown, and so
Temained until Qneen Elizabeth presented it to Sir William Cecil, lord treasurer, and
the great Lord Borleigh (properly Bnrghley), who completed the mansion, with fbnr
sqoare turrets; whence it was called Cecil Houae and Burleigh Houae, and afterwards
Exeter House, f^rom the aon of the great atatesman Thomaa Cedl, Earl of Exeter. The
sumaion fronted the' Strand, and extended fix>m the garden-wall of Wimbledon House
(oQ the nte of D'Oyley's warehouse) to a green lane, the site of the preaent Southamp-
toD-atreet^ westward. Queen Elizabeth viaited Lord Burleigh at Exeter Houae; and
liere hia obaequies were celebrated by a lying-in-state.* In the chapel attached, the
pioaa John Evdyn, on Christmas-day, 1657, was adzed by the aoldiera of the Commons
wiealth for having observed " the superatitious time of the Nativity," and was tern-
ponrily shut up in Exeter Houae. Here lived the first Earl of ShafteabuTy, and here
VB8 born hia grandson, who wrote the CharacterUtiei. After the C^eat Fire^ the courts
of Doctors' Commons were hdd in Exeter House untQ 1672.
Exeter 'Change was built, as a aort of bazaar, by Dr. Barbon, the apeculator in
lioaaes, temp, William and Mazy, when Exeter Houae was taken down ; and probably
>ome of the old materials were uaed for the 'Change, induding a pair of large Corinthian
oolmnna at the eastern end. {See a View, by G. Cooke.) About the aame time, Exeter-
■treet waa erected. The 'Change extended from the houae No. 862 to the aite of the
pKunt Burleigh-atreet : it prcgected into the Strand, the northern foot-thoroughfiure of
which lay through the ahops or atands of the lower floor, firat occupied by aempaters^
nuQiners, hoders, &c.
The body of the poet Gay lay in state in an upper room of the 'Change ; here, too,
irere upholsterers' ahopa, the offices of Law's Land Bank, auction-rooma, &C. Cutlery
then became the mercfaandiae of the lower floor.
Thomas Clark, "the Khif of Exeter 'Chan^" took a stall here in 1765 with lOOZ. lent him by a
The upper rooma of Exeter 'Change were occupied aa a menagerie sucoesdvdy by
Hdoock, Pdito, and Cross; admisdon to Pidoodc's, in 1810, 2f. Qd, The roar of the
Hods and tigers could be diatinctly heard in the street, and often frightened horaes in
the roadway. During Cross" tenancy, in 182^ Chunee, the stupendous dephant
shown here ance 1809, in an oak den which coat 850^., waa ahot, and hta akin add for
^^•; hia akdeton, add for 1002., ia now at the College of Surgeona. {See Musbttmb.)
^^nai' 3(enagerie waa removed in 1828 to the Kings' Mewa, Charing-cross ; and Exeter
'Change was entirely taken down in 1829.
Nsw EzETBB Chavob, au Arcade which led from Catherine-street to Wellington-
street^ Strand, is described at page 20.
FETTER-LAIHE,
FLEET-STHEET, eastward of St. Dunstan's Church, extending to Holbom-hill, ^la
80 called of fewters (or idle people) lying there, as in a way leading to gardem^
{8t<m) before the street waa built ; but when he wrote "it waa built, through on both
■idea with many fair houaea." Here lived the leatheradler of the Bevolntion, " Pniae
^ Baiebonea," and hia brother, "Damned Barebonea," both in the same house.
. •Bnrgblej died at Tbeobdds,Ang. 4.1698, where the body laj. Hentzer, however, states that whan
M called to see Theobdds at Cheahan^ there waa* nol)ody to shew the palaca,aa the family waa in town
attending the ftmeral of their lord."
336 CUTUOSITIES OF LONDON.
Hobbes of Malmesbury had a house in this street. In No. 16, over Fleur-de-lis-conrt,
Dryden is siud to have lived ; bat not by his biog^phers. His name does not appear
in the parish books ; bnt he may hare been a lodger. " This period in Diyden's life
may have been about the time when he wrote prefaces and other pieces for Hering-
bam, the bookseller in the New Exchange, or soon after." — J, W, Archer, whose im-
pression was that the authority consisted in a letter of Dryden's, dated from Fetter-
lane, and in Mr. Upcott*s collection of autographs. At the right-hand comer of
Fleor-de-lis-court, the in&mous Mrs. Brownrigg murdered her apprentices in 1767 ;
the cellar-grating, whence the poor child's cries issued, is on the side of the court : —
* She whipped two female 'prenttoei to death.
And hid them in the ooal-holo. ....
For this act.
Did Brownrigg swing."— Canning, AM^acobin.
On the RoUs estate, nearly opposite, was commenced a new Record Office, by Penne-
thome, in 1851. No. 32, Fetter-lane is the entrance to the Moravian Chapel, which
, was attacked and dismantled in the Sacheverel riots. {See Dissbittebs' Chipels,
p. 220.) The Fleet-street and Holbom ends of Fetter-lane were^ for more than two
centuries, places of public execution. At the Holbom end, Nathaniel Tomkins was
executed, July 5, 1643, for his share in Waller's plot to surprise the City. At the
Fleet-street end Sarah Malcolm was executed, March 1733, for the murder of three
women. {See Mr. Serjeant Burke's Romance of the Forum, vol. L pp. 224-38.)
Hogarth piunted and engraved Sarah Malcolm: the print, for which the Duke of
Boxbnrghe gave 8/. Sf ., is the rarest of Hogarth's portraits : this impression is now
in Mr. Holbert Wilson's collection*
** Immediately after Sarah Malcolm underwent the extreme penalty of the Uw, s oonfeieion made by
her was published in a pamphlet form; the edition was exhaoated at once, and aa much aa twenty
gnineaa u aaid to have been offered for an imprestion."— JZoMauM qf the Fontm^ 2nd aeries, vol. i. p. 297.
** After her exeeaUon her corpse was carried to an nndertalier's on Snow-hill, where mnltitaaes of
people resorted, and gave money to see it; among the rest, a gentleman in deep mourning kissed her,
and gave the attendanta haU^Hsown."— Zm&m^, vol. iL p. 320. Quoted in Mr. Holbert Wilaon's Oxta-
logut, privately printed.
Fetter-lane has still a few old houses : towards the Holbom end are some of the
oldest chambers of Barnard's Inn. Strange labyrinths of courts and alleys lie between
Chancery, Fetter, and Shoe lanes, which, in the reign of Queen Elizabeth, intersected
gardens and straggling cottages. This district was the principal part of Saxon London,
and was nearly all burnt ▲.£. 982, when the City had ** most buildings from Ludgate
towards Westminster, and little or none where the heart of the City now is ; except in
divers places was housing that stood without order." {Stovo^
The White Horse Inn, Fetter-lane (now a cheap lodging-hoose), was formerly the great Oxford
house: here Lord Eldon, when he left school and came to London, in 1776, met his brother. Lord
Stowell. *' He took me," bsts Lord Eldon, '* to see the plar at Dirury-lane. Love played Jobn* in the
Ikrce ; and Miss Pope played Nell, When we came out of the house it rained hard. There were tilien
few hackney-coaches, and we both got into one sedan-chair. Turning out of Fleet-street hito Fetter-
lane, there was a sort of contest between our chairman and some persons who were coming up Fleet-
street, whether they should first pass Fleet-street, or we in oar chair first get out of Fleet-street into
Fetter-lane. In the struggle, the sedan-chair was overset, with ns in it."— Lord Eldoa*BAneodote-Book,
FJTELD'LJNF,
AN infamous rookery of " the dangerous classes," extended from the foot of Holbom-
hill, northward, parallel with the Fleet Ditch, but has been mostly taken down
since it was thus vividly painted in 1837 : —
"Near to the spot on which Snow-hill and Holbom meet, there opens, upon the right hand as yon
come out of the City, a narrow and dismal alley leading to S8ilh)n-hill. In its filthy shops are expoewd
for sale huge bunches of pocket-handkerchiefs of all sizes and patterns— for here reside the traders wbo
purchase tnem from pickpockets. Hundreds of these handkerchief hang dangling from pegs outside
the windows, or flaunting from the door-posts; and the shelves witUn are piled with them. Confined
as the limits of Field-lane are. it has its Sarber, its coifee-shop, its beer-shop, and its fried-flsh ware-
house. It is a commercial colony of itself— the emporium of petty larceny, visited, at early morning
and setting-in of dusk, by silent merchants, who traflSc in dark back-parlours, and go aa strangelv as
they come. Here the dothesman, the shoe-vamper. and the rag-merchant, display their goods as sifm-
boards to the petty thief; and stores of old iron and bones, ana heaps of niildewy fragments of woollen-
stuff and linen, rust and rot in the grimy cellars."— Charles Dickens's Oliver Twiet, 1SS7.
From Field-lane, northward, runs Safiron-hill, named from the safflron which it once
FIELD OF FORTY FOOTSTEPS— FIN8BUBT. 337
bore ; next is Yine-street, the mte of Ely-hoose vineyard. Strype (1720) describes this
locnlity as "of small acooont both as to buildings and inhabitants, and pestered with
small and ordinary alleys and courts, taken np by the meaner sort of people;" others
are " nasty and inconsiderable."
In 1844 was taken down part of Old Chick-lane, which debouched into ileld-lane.
Here was a notorious thieves' lodging-house, formerly the Bed-Lion Tavern : it had
▼arioos contrivances for concealment ; and the Fleet Ditch in the rear, across which the
panned often escaped by a plank into the oppomte knot of courts and alleys.
FIELD OF FORTY FOOTSTEPS.
THE fields behind Montague House, Bloomsbuiy, appear to have been originally
called Long ]Reld8; and afterwards (about Strype's time) Southampton fields, dn.
St. John Baptist's Day, 1694^ Aubrey saw at midnight twenty-three young women in
the pasture behind Montague House, looking for a coal, beneath the root of a plantain,
to put under their heads that nighty and they should dream who would be their
busbands. The fields were the ^escnrt of depraved wretches, chiefiy for fighting
pitched battles, espedally on the Sabbath-day : such was the turbulent state of the
place up to 1800.
A l4^ndary story of the period of the Duke of Monmouth's Bebellion relates a
mortal conflict here between two brothers, on account of a lady, who sat by : the
combatants fought so ferodously as to destroy each other ; after which thdr footsteps,
imprinted on the ground in the vengeful struggle, were sidd to remain, with the in-
dentations produced by their advandng and receding ; nor would any grass or vege-
tation ever grow over these forty fooUtept, Miss Porter and her rister, upon this
fiction, founded their ingenious romance, Coming Out, or the Field of Forty Footttepe g
^ they entirely depart from the local tradition. At the Tottenham-street Theatre
^na produced, many years since, an effective melodrama, by Messrs. Mayhew,
bonded upon the same incident, entitled the Field of Forty Footsteps.
Soathey records this strange story in his Commonplace Book (second series, p. 21).
<After quoting a letter from a friend, recommending him to " take a view of those
wonderfol marks of the Lord's hatred to duelUnff, called The Brother^ Steps,** and
dsKrilnng the locality, Southey thus narrates his own visit to the spot : " We sought
for near half an hour in vain. We could find no steps at all within a quarter of a
°ule, no, nor half a mile, of Montague House. We were almost out of hope, when an
bonest man, who was at work, directed us to the next ground, adjoining to a pond,
^ere we found what we sought, about three-quarters of a mile north of Montague
House, and 500 yards east of Tottenham-court-road. The steps are of the size of a
l*ige human foot, about three inches deep, and lie nearly from north-east to south-west,
^e counted only seventy-six ; but we were not exact in counting. The place where
<^ or both the brothers are supposed to have fallen is still bare of grass. The
labourer also showed us where (the tradition is) the wretched woman sat to see the
oombat." Southey adds his full confidence m the tradition of the indestructibility of
^^ >tep8, even after ploughing up, and of the conclusions to be drawn i^m the
circamstance.^^oto« and (Queries, No. 12.
Joseph Moser, in one of his Commonplace Boohs, gives tins account of the foot-
*tep$, JQst previous to their being built over : *' June 16, 1800. Went into the fields
At the back of Montague House, and there saw, for the last time, th& forty footsteps ;
tbe building materials are there, ready to cover them from the sight of man. I counted
^e than forty, but they might be the footprints of the workmen."— Dobie's 8t.
^1^-in.the-Fields and 8t. Oeorye, Bloomshury; and Dr. Rimbault, in Notes and
*«*»«, No. 14.
FINSBUEY,
0
H J'eiubury, named from its fenny ground, is a manor of high antiquity, which
ftbuts in part upon the City, Cripplegate, and Moorgate boundaries, and was
anciently named Vynesbury. A great part of the manor is held by tbe Corporation
^ London, by virtue of a lease dated 22nd May, 1315, from Robert de Biuldok, pre-
z
838 CURIOSITIES OF LONDON.
beDdary of Haliwell and Fiiubory, in St. Paal's Cathedral, at an annnal rent of 20».
The lease, which has been renewed from time to time, will expire in the year 1867.
The Corporation appdnts the steward and other officers of the manorial ooarte ; bat
the manor is not within the jurisdiction of the City. The Finsbury court leet and
baron are holden in October every year, before the senior Common Pleader, to whose
office the stewardship of the manor of Finsbury is incident. (Mumeipal Corporation^
Report, pp. 8, 186 ; and Maitland's London, vol. iL 1869.) finsbury has been diuned
and bi^t over, and is now a populous parliamentary borough, induding the andent
district of Moorfields, to be desoibed heresiter.
In early times, the chief magistrate of London was no more than a prorost Afterwards, the title of
Mayoi^-that is, Major Chitf—wn given to him ; bat in all the olden chronicles and documents he is
simplT called by thiut name, withoat the prefix of Lord. When the manor of Finsbury was annexed to
the City property, and the mere marsh was turned into a place of general recreation, be was, in Tirtoe
of his office, Lora of the Manor of Finsbury. Hence, in process of time^ the compound title of Lord
Uayor : Mayor, that il^ of London, and Lord of the Manor of Finsbury.
Aggas's Flan, 1660, shows Finsburr as a rural suburb; with " Finsburie Fyeld,** with its four wind-
mills ; its archers ; diTing^grounds, with women spreading clothes on the grass ; tiie ** dogge-honse," Ac
" Moor-gate opens to tiie moor, or fisn-^ence the district name .Fm, or Fensbury, and that of the near>
to-hand MooT'Tane. Fore-stoeet appears htfort the City wall. The City-road is a footpath, near the
Junction of which with Old-street, another footpath, stands Finsbury-court. Tenter«treet still aUests
the presence of the ' tenters,' whose frames in Ams's Plan are sketched on the site which is now so styled ;
thus also do Bopemaker and Skinner-streets mdicate old trades of suburban custom. Cherry-terrace,
Crabtree-row, Willow-walk and Wilderness, Windmill, Lamb, Pear, Rose, Primrose, Acorn, Ivy, Elder,
Blossom, Orchard, and Beeoh-strMtiL all in the neighbourhood, suggest odours and sights that have long
left the spot Tabernacle, Chapel, Worship, Mark, Luke, John, Paul, Paradise, Quaker, ProTidenos^ and
Qrwt P«ar^streeto hint at later oooupants/'— iltt«iU0«M, 1866.
In the reigns of Queen Elizabeth and James I. (says Cunningham), Finsbury was a
favourite walk with the citizens of London on a Sunday : hence Hotspur's allusion to
Lady Percy : —
" And giv'st such saroenet security for thy oaths.
As if you nerer walk'st further than Finsbury.'*
Shakspeare^ FhrH Part </ S«mr$ JV,
The Prebend of Finsbury now (1866) has revenues of 7000Z. per annum ; they will
shortly be eight or nine times that amount. {See Bukhill Fislds, p. 76.) The
City's proportion of the net proceeds of the Finsbury Estate Is, annually, 42,977^.
FIRE OF LONDON (TJBOE),
OB the Gbeat Fibb of 1666, broke out about one o'clock on Sunday morning, Sep-
tember 2, and raged nearly four days and nights. It commenced at the house of
one Farryner, the " King's Baker," in Pudding-lane, near New Fish-street-hill, and
within ten houses of Lower Thames-street, into which it spread within a short tame;
nearly all the contiguous buildings being of lath and plaster, and the whole neigh-
bourhood mostly dose passages and narrow lanes and alleys, of wooden pitched houses^
Driven by a strong east-north-east wind, the flames spread with great rapidity : how-
ever, it was proposed to the Lord Mayor (Sir Thomas Bludworth), who came before
three o'clock, to pull down some houses, to prevent their extending ; but he neglected
this advice, and before eight o'clock the fire had reached London Bridge.
The tremendous event is finely described by Evelyn in his Diary, wherein he tells us
that it made the atmosphere as light as day ** for ten miles round about ; . . all the skie
was of a fiery aspect, like the top of a burning oven, the light seen above forty miles
round about. Above 10,000 houses all in one flame ; the noise and cracking and thunder
of the impetuous flames, y* shrieking of women and children, the hurry of people, the
fall of towers, houses, and churches, was like an hideous storme, and the air aU about
so hot and iuflam'd, that at last one was not able to approach it, so that they were forc'd
to stand still and let y' flames bum on, w^^ they did for neere two miles in length, and
one in bredth. The clouds of smoke were dismally and reached upon computation neer
50 miles in length."
On the 6th, Evelyn writes : " In this calamitous condition, I retnm'd with a sad
heart to my house, blessing and adoring the mercy of God to me and mine, who, in the
midst of all this mine, was like Lot, in my little Zoar, safe and sound."
Pepys's account, in his Diary, is fully as minute as that of Evelyn, but is mingled
with various personal and official circumstances. Pepys was then derk of the Acts
FIBE OF LONDON (TRE). 339
of the Navy : bis house and office were in Seething-lane, Crntched Frian; be was
called op at three in the morning', Sept. 2, by his maid Jane, and so rose and slipped
on his nigbtgown, and went to her window ; bnt thought the fire finr enough off, and
80 went to bed agun, and to sleep. Next morning, Jane told him that she heard above
300 hoofles had been burnt down by the fire they saw, and that it was then burning
down all Fish-street, by London Bridge. "So," he writes, "I made myself ready
presently, and walked to the Tower, and there got up upon one of the high places, and
saw the hooses at that end of the bridge all on fire, and an infinite great fire on this
and the other mde of the bridge," &c On Sept. 6, he notes : " about two in the morn-
ing my wife calls me up, and tells me of new cries of fire^ it being come to Barkii^
Charch, which is at the bottom of our Lane." The fire was, however, stopped, " as
weU at Mark-lane end as ours; it having only burnt the dyall of Barking Church, and
part of the porch, and there was quenched."
Tht Umits of the Great Fire, according to the London ChzeUa, Sept. 8, 1666, were : "at the Temple
Gfanreb, near Holbom Bridge, Pye Comer, Aldersgate, Cripplegate, near the lower end of Coleman-
strset; at the end of BaainghaU-street, hi the Postern ; at the upper end of BiBhopegate-Btroet and
T<wrtenhill-«treetL at the Standard In CornhilL at the Church in Fenchnrch-street, near Clothworkera*
Hall, m Mindng^-uuie, at the middle of Mark-fame, and at the Tower Dock."
" It ie observed and la true, in the late Fire of London, that the Fire burned Just as many parish
ctanchea as there were hours fVom the beginning to the end of the Fire; and next, that there were Just
as msQj chnrcbea left standing in the rest of the City that was not buxned, being, I think, thhrteen in
aD of caoh; which ia prettj to obserre."— Pepjs* Dtary, Jan. 7, 1067-8.
The Fire consumed almost five-sixths of the whole Citj ; and without the walls, it
cleared a space nearly as extennve as the one-sixth part left unbumt within. PuUio
edifices, churches, and dwelling-houses were alike consumed ; and it may be stated that
the flames extended their rsTSges over a space of gpround equal to an oblong square of a
mile and a half in length, and half a mile in breadth. In one of the inscriptions on the
Monument, wbich was drawn up from the reports of the surveyors appointed after the
l^re, it is stated that " the ruins of the City were 486 acres (viz. 873 acres within
the walls, and 63 without them, but within the liberties) ; that of the six-and-twenty
^Bxds, it utterly destroyed fifteen, and left eight others shattered and half burnt;
and that it consumed dghty-nine churches, four of the City gates, Guildhall, many
publie structures, hospitids, schools, libraries, a great number of statdy edifices, 18^200
dwelling-housQS, and 460 streets.
Lotd Clarendon says, that " the value or estimate of what that devouring iire
consumed could never be computed in any degree." A curious pamphlet upon the
^^ftrniiiff of London, first published in 1667, however, estimates the loss at 7,335,000{. ;
but it is believed to have been nearer ten millions sterling.
Whether the Great Fire were the effiBet of demgn or of accident, has been much
controverted. Lord Clarendon admits the public impression to have been, " that the
f*ire was occanoned by conspiracy and oomlnnation;" and although he himself main-
^*his the negative, his own account funnshes oppomte testimony. *' It could not be
conceived," he says, " how a house that was distant a mile from any part of the Fire
coold suddenly be in a fiame, without some particular malice ; and this case fell oui
^^^ nigJtt** One Robert Hubert, a French Papist, seized in Essex, confessed to have
^8PDn the Ymi and was hanged accordingly : he stated that he had been, *' suborned
^t Psris to this action ;" that there " were three more combined with him to do the
mne thmg," and that " he had set the first house on fire." Tet Lord Clarendon
'^'^■ngely remarks, that "neither the judges, nor any present at the trial, did believe
him guilty, but that he was a poor distracted wretch weary of his life, and chose to
part with it in this way." This was not credited by Howell, then recorder of London.
" Tilbtson beUeved the City was burnt on design." {Bwmet.)
^ the 26th of April, 1066, a plot was discovered for taking the Tower and firing the City, which
Vtt to have been pat m execution on the 3rd of September, a day rmrded as peculiarly lucky to the
ttti^^uralist IkcUon. It is worthy of remark that the " Great Fire of London " broke out on the 2nd
or September in that year, the very day before that appointed by the conspirators.
An extreonely impressive narrative of the progress of the oonflagration, and of the distress and eon-
^non it oocasioned, has been given by the Rev. T. Vincent^ a nonoonformist divine, in his tract, Qod^B
i^^^ -Advice to iko City by Flagus and lirt, of which thirteen editions were published within
The stationers and booksellers lost thdr stocks, which they had deposited in St.
Paul's crypt : too eager to ascertun its condition, as the fire subsided, Uiey caused tn
z 2
840
CURI0BITIE8 OF LONDON.
apeitare to be made in titie smouldering pile, when a stream of wind roshed in and oon-
samed the whole :—
" Hesrens, what a nOe ! whole agM periah'd tbsre ;
And OM bright biAM tnni'd ]«anitaig hito air."
Aubrey nlates that on 8t Andnw's Day (Nov. 90), 1606^ aa he waa riding In a coach towards Grea-
ham CoUege, at the oomer of Holbom Bridge, a cellar of coala waa opened by the laboarera, and ** there
were barnmg coala which burnt erer aince the Great Firej bat being pent so doae from air, there waa
very Uttle waate."— J^(U. HuL WiU;
Westminster Hall was filled with the dtizens* goods and merdiandize; and Pepys
oddly complains that he could not " find any place in Westminster to buy a alurt or
pair of gloves ; Westminster Hall being full of people's goods."
A Court of Judicature was appointed by Parliament, to settle all differences arising
in respect to the destroyed premises ; and the judges of this Court gave such satisfmc-
tion, that their portraits were painted, at the expense of the citizens, for 602. a pieces
and are now in the Courts of Common Pleas and Queen's Bench, Guildhall.
Kot more than six persons lost their lives in the Fire ; one of whom was a watch-
maker, living in Shoe-lane, behind the Globe Tavern, and who would not leave his
house, which sunk him with the ruins into the cellar, where his bones, with his keyi^
were found.
(See Hollar's small view of London before and after the Fire; and an ingenious
picture-plan by F. Whishaw, C.E., showing the part of the City destroyed, and its
altered condition in 1889.)
Whilst the City was rebuilcting, temporary edifices were raised, both for divine
worship and the general business. Gresham College, which had escaped the flames,
was converted into an Exchange and Guildhall ; and the Boyal Society removed its
sittings to Arundel House. The afSurs of the Custom-house were transacted in Mark-
lane ; of the Excise Office in Southampton-fields, near Bedford House ; the General
Post-Office was removed to Brydges-street, Covent-garden ; Doctors' Commons to
Exeter House, Strand ; and the King's Wardrobe was consigned from Puddle Wharf to
York-buildings. The inhabitants, for a time« were mostly lodged in small huts, built
in Unsbury and Moorfields, in Smithfield, and on all the open spaces in the neigh-
bourhood of the metropolis. The whole calamity was bravely borne : Evelyn mentions
that the merchants complied with their foreign correspondence as if no disaster had
happened, and not one &ilure was heard of. Within two days after the conflagration,
both Wren and Evelyn had presented to the King plans for a new City : neither of
these was accepted ; but London was principally rebuilt within little more than four
years after its destrnctaon.^(jS06 Mokumsnt, the.)
MJEMOBJBLE FIEJES.
Sonthwark burnt bj William the Conqueror,
about twenty years before the Domesday Survey.
982.— St. Paal's Mioster bornt.
1066. — All the houses and churches flrom the
west to the east gate burnt— (JBal;«r'f CkrofAeU,)
1067.— The Wtncketter Ckroniele makes entry of
the burning of the Church of St. Paul's and of
London. The Wcmtrlejf ChrtmieU says that St.
Paurs* with many other churches, and the greater
and better part of the whole City, were then de-
stroyed by fire.
10B3.— The wooden honses and straw rooft of
the London citizens again in flimies, and great
part of the City destroyed.
1102.— "London was twice bumt,"aphrase which
shows how quickly the City could then be rebuilt,
and that the houses must have be«i mode of very
combustible materials.
1104.— London and Lincoln were burnt.
1113.— The Tower of London partially destroyed
by fire.
1131.— ** Londonla tota combnsta est "—London
entirely burnt
1135.— The first year of Stephen. A great fire
broke out at the Bridge, and destroyed not only
all the wooden and thatched houses, but every
edifice, including St Paul's, between the bridge
and St Clement Danes.
1136.— The houses burnt from near London*
stone eastward as fkr aa Aldgate: and to the
shrine of St Krkenwald, in St Paul's Cathedral,
west.
1161.— By the WhteKetter C3kroincf«, not only
London burnt, but Winchester, Gsnterbnry, and
Exeter.
1212.— Julr 10. Sonthwark, with the Chapel of
St Thomas (on London Bridge) and the Priory of
St. Mary Overie, was consumed. The WavtrUf
Chronicle says : — " A great part of London in the
nelghbourho(Dd of the Bridge, with the Southward
Priory, was burnt down." Tluee thousand bodies,
some nalf'bumt, were found in the river Thames:
besides those who ]>eTished altogether by fire. ** It
broke out on the south side of the Bridge. Multi-
tudes of people rushed to the rescue of the inhabi-
tants of nouses on the bridge, and while thus en-
g^aged the fire broke out on the north side alio,
and hemmed them in, making a holocaust of those
who were not killed by leaping into the Thames.
The fire spread north and south : from John's
reign to that of Charles the Second it was known
aa the Great Fire, but that name is now only
FIBE BBIOADES.
341
applied to the oanflagntlon of 1066, which ex-
tended from the north-east gate to Holbom-
bridse, and from the Tower to the Temple Church,
leaving between foor and five honored acres
cormd with rains of many thousands of houses
to mark its devastation."— ^^Amomm, 1866.
1512.— Great part of the Palace of Westminster
" ODoe aaain" burnt (4 Hen. VIII.), and not since
re-«dified; onlj the Great Hall, with acyoining
offices, kept in good repair.
ISSk—Aug. 16. The Mews, Charing Cross,
burnt.
16l3.-nJane 29. The Globe Theatre, Bankside,
bnmt. '
16I9.-nJan. 12. The old Banqaetin^honse,
Whitehall Pah^e, bnrat.
1621. — Dec. 9. The Forixme Theatre burnt.
Dec. 20. Six Clerks' Office, Chancery-lane, bnrut.
1691.— April 10. At Whitehall Palace all the
boildines over the stone gallery to the water-side
burnt ; IfiO hooses, chiefly of the nobility, eon-
samed, and 20 blown up.
1687.— Jan. 4. Whitehall Palaoe^ except Inigo
Jones's Banqueting-hoose, burnt: all its pictures
destroyed, and 12 persons perished.
1632-33.— Feb. 3. More than one-third of the
bouaea on London Bridge burnt; the Thames
almost frozen.
1666.— The Gsxat Fias. {800 preceding article.)
1671-2. — The Kin^ Theatre, I>rnry-lane, burnt.
1676.— May 26. The Town-hall and part of
Soathwtrk (600 houses) burnt.
1718.— Custom-house (Wren's) burnt.
1726.— Great fire at the South-end of London
Bridge; stopped bj the Stone Gate.
1748. — llarch 25. In Comhill ward : 200 houses
bnrat; commenced in 'Change-alley, and was the
largest since the Great Fire of 1666. {See Cobv-
HJLi., p. 235.)
1758. — April IL The temporary wooden London
Bridge destroyed by fire, stopping all communica-
tion between the City and Southwark. This pro-
duced the Act of Parliament making any wilful
attempt to destroy the Bridge or its works to be
death without benefit of clergy.
1760.— April 18. Fresh Wharf and part of St.
Magnus* Church, London Bridge, burai.
1765.— Nov. 7. The southern half of Bishops-
nte-street Withhi, including St Martin Outwich
Church, destroyed by fire; the four coraers of
Cornhill, Bishopsgate-street, Leadenhall-street,
and Gracechurch-street, were In flames at the same
time.
17S9.— June 17. Italian Opera-house (Van-
brog^h's) trarat.
1704.— June 18. At Limehouse Hole, many
houses burat. July 22, 23. At BatclifTe (>oss ;
630 houses and an East India warehoose burnt:
loea, 1,000,0002.
1808.— Sept. 20. CoTenl^garden Theatre borat.
1809.— Feb. 24. Draiy-laue Theatre burat
1814.— Feb. 12. The Custom-house and acljoln-
vast houses destroyed. Aug. 28. Oil and mustard
mills, Bankside, burat; remains of Winchester
Palace discoTcred in the ruins.
1834.— Oat. 16. Both Houses of Parliament de-
stroyed by a fire which was not extinguished
several days : libraries and state papers preserved.
In 1828, Sir John Soane, noticing the great quantity
of timber used in the House of Lords, propheti-
cally asked : *' Should a fire happen, what would
become of the Painted Chamber, the House of
Commons, and Westminster Hall P Where would
the progress of the fire be arrested ?" The latter
was saved by the &vourable direction of the wind ;
for had the flames and flakes of fire firom the two
Houses been wafted towards the vast timber roof
of the Hall, it must have been Inevitably destroyed.
Among the strange stories in support of the fire
being the work of political incendiaries, is the
statement of Mr. Cooper, an ironmonger, of Drury-
lane, that he heard at Dudley, in Worcestershire
(119 miles from London), a report of the confla-
gration about three hours tS!lst it broke out
1838.— Jan. 10. The Boyal Exchange bnrat
within flve hours; with a great amount of pro-
perty, documents of corporations, &c.
1841.— Oct 30. Conflagration in the Tower; the
great storehouse, with 280,000 stand of arms, and
the Bowyer and Butler Towers, burat
1&13.— Aug. 17. Great fire at Topping's Whart
London Bridge : Watson's telegraph tower and
St. Olave's Church burat
1840.— March 29. The Olympic Theatre and a
dozen other buildings burat in three hours. Oct 6.
Extensive fire at London-wall; Carpenters' Hall
ixgured : loss, 100,0002.
1850.— March 29. St. Anne's Church, Limehouse.
destroyed. Sept. 19. Great fire in Mark-lane ana
Seething-lane ; loss, 100,0002. In the ruins was
discovered a tablet, inscribed : "This was rebuUt
in 1792. The foundation, or 'base courts.' are the re*
mains of the original palace where theCity standard
of weights and measures were formerly kept and
designated, in Saxon phraseology, ' Auay Thlnff
Court,' the entrance to which was in, as ia now
called, ' Seething-lane.' "
1861.— June 22. Conflagration in TooIey-street»
London Bridge ; property destroyed half a million.
FISE BRIGADE.
rpHE early precantions for the prevention of Fires in the metropolis were remarkable.
J- A bonseholder, within the liberty of the City, who dared to cover his house with
thatcby was sure to see his dwelling razed to the g^round by the authorities. From the
time of the Fire in Stephen's reign, it was forbidden to bakers to light their oven-fires
at night (brewers were under nmilar stringent regulations) with reeds or loose straw ;
nothing but wood was legaL Lead, tilo> or stones, wdre alone permitted in Edward the
Third's time for roofing.
In the first year of Richard I., the Wardmotes ordered : — " Item, that all persons
who dwell in g^eat houses within the wai4 have a ladder or two ready and prepared
to sooooor their ndghbours in case misadventure should occur from fire. Item, that
all persons who occupy such houses, have in summer-time, and especially between the
Feast of Pentecost and the Feast of St. Bartholomew (Aug^t 24th) , before their doors
a barrel full of water for quenching such fire^ if it be not a house which has a fountain
of its own. Item, that the reputable men of the ward, with the aldermen, provide a
strong crook of inm, with a wooden handle, together with two chains and two strong
oords» and that the bedel have a good horn and loudly sounding. Of persons wander-
842 CUBIOSrriES OF LONDON.
ing by uight, it is forbidden that any person shall bo so dareing aa to be found
wandering about the streets of the City after the carfew rang out at St. Martan'a-le>
Grsnd, St. Laurance, or at Berkyngcbirdi, upon pain of bdng arrested.''
The earliest mechanical contrivance for the extinction of fires in London appears to
have been a syringe or squirt, numbers of which were kept by the parochial authorities.
In the vestry-room of St. Dionis, Back-church, Fenchurch-street, are preserved three
of these squirts : each is about 2 feet 8 inches long, and when used was attached by
straps to the body of a man : others were worked by three men, two holding the squirt
by tiie handles and nozzle, while a third worked tiie piston within it. Such was the
rudiment of our first fire-engine.
** Now streets now throng'd, and bosy as by day :
Some ran for backets to the hallow'd quire;
Some cat the pipes, and some the enginst play.
And some, more bold, moant ladders to the fire.**
Diyden's Jnnut USrabOU (1066).
The ^ engines" were the syringes, which were greatly increased after the Grreat
Fire, but were shortly afterwards superseded by r^^ular fire-en^es. By order of
the Corporation of London, a Fire Police was established in 1668; the several parishes
were provided with leathern buckets, ladders, pickaxes, sledges, shovels, and heatd-
9quirU of brass ; which supply the companies, aldermen, and subsidy-men contributed;
and among other provisions was the ringing of a belL The fire-cocks, and the " F.P."
and " W.M." upon houses to denote the place of the fire-plug and wator-main; and the
rewards for bringing the parish-engines, date from stat. 6 Anne, cap. 81.
The Great Fire led to the establishment of Insurance Offices against loasea by fire :
in 1681, the Court of Common Council attempted to establish one, but unsuccessfully;
the earliest was the Phoenix, at the Bainbow Coffee-house, Fleet-street, in 1682; the
Friendly Society, 1684 (badge a sheath of arrows) ; and the Hand-in-Hand, established
in 1696 ; next was the Sun, projected by one Povey, about 1706, and by the present
Company in 1710; the Westminster Fire Office, 1717; each office keeping its firemen
in liveries, with silver badges ; and their fire-engines, which they from time to time
improved. In 1676 was patented an engine with leathern pipes, for quenching fire;
and about 1720 two Germans had at Bethnal-green a manufactory of water-tight
aeamless hose. Here is Gay's mock-heroic picture of a fire of this period :—
" Now with thick crowds th* enlighten'd pavement swarms,
The fireman sweats beneath his crooked arms;
A leathern casqae his vent'roas hei^ defends.
Boldly he climbs where thickest smoke ascends.
If OT'd by the mother's streaming eyes and prayers.
The helpless infiuit throagh the flame he bears.
With no less virtoe than tnroagh hostile fire
The Dardan hero bore his aged sire.
See forcefal engines spoat their leveled streams.
To qaench the olaze that nms alonff the beams :
The grappling-hook placks rafters from the walls,
And heaps on heaps the smoky rain fUls.
Hark I the dram thunders I fiur, ye crowds, retire:
Behold I the ready match is tipt with fire.
The nitrous store is laid, the smutty train
With ranning blaze awakes the barrell'd grain.
Flames sadden wrap the walls ; with sullen sound
The shatter'd pile sinks on the smoky ground."— IWeio, b. UL
In 1798 was formed the Fire-watch or Fire-guard of London ; the Insurance Offices
still keeping their separate engine establishments. In 1808, Sir F. M. Eden, then
chairman of the Globe Insurance Company, proposed to form a general fire-engine esta-
blishment, but the attempt fiedled. About 1825, the Sun, Union, and Royal
Exchange formed a brigade. In 1832, eigh^Insurance Companies formed an alUanoe for
assisting each other at fires; hence the "London Fire-Engine Establishment," which
commenced operations in 1838. By the rules, London was divided into five districts:
in each were engine-stations : besides a fioating-engine off Rotherhithe and Southwark
Bridge ; these required more than 100 men each for working, and threw up two tuns
of water per minute. A certain number of the men or " lire Brigade," superintended
by Mr. Braidwood, were ready at all hours of the day and night, as were also the
engines, to depart at a mmute's akrm, in case of fire. The Associations awarded gn-
FIBE BRIGADE. 343
taities to policemen who gave an alarm to the nearest engine-station; and the
director or captain of each engine paid strangers or hystanders for aid : it required
from twenty to thirty men to work each engine ; and at a large fire, 500 strangers were
sometimes thtus employed. Sometimes the engines were smnmoned hy electric tele-
graph, and conveyed by railway to fires in the ooontry.
The nomber of engines kept was 37; of the Fire Brigade 96. The men wore a dark grsy
muform, trimmed with red, black leather waiat-belta, hardened leathern helmets, reminding one of
the leathern caaqne and ** the Dardao hero " of Gay's Trivia, The engines were provided with scaling
for opening the fire-plogs, and keys for turning the stop-cocks of the water-mains.
Another ingenioos provision was a smoke-proof dress, oonsisting of a leathern jacket and head cover-
ing, fastened at the waist and wrist, so that the interior is smoke-proof: two glass windows served for
the eyes to look through, and a pipe attached to the girdle allowed fnsh air to be pomped into the interior
of the jacket^ to support Uie respintion of the wearer : thns equipped, the fireman oonld dare the densest
smoke.
Steam-power was first applied to work a fire-engine in 1830. {See Abotll Books,
p 22.) There is also on the Thames a steam fioating-eng^e, the machineiy of which
either propels the vessel, or works the pnmps, as required. Subsequently were intro-
duced the land steam fire-en^nes, by which is diminished damage by water, which is
driven by sach force by steam that almost every drop does its fioJl duty.
The Boyal Society for the Protection of Life finom Fire was first established in
1836; re-organized in 1848; for establishing Fire-escape Stations and Ck>nductors;
supported by voluntary subscriptions and paroclnal vestries.
As London grows and grows, the number of Fires recorded eveiy year in the vast
agglomeration of brick and mortar increases ako. Thus in 1863 the total was 1^04^
bang 101 more than in 1862. In the latter year, the Parliamentary. Committee ap-
pointed to inqnire into the existing arrangements for the Protection of Life and Pro-
perty against Fire in the Metropolis, reported that twenty years previously the number
of fires in London was about 450, and in 1862 the total number was 1183. According
to Sir Bicbard Mayne's estimate, the whole of the Metropolitan Police area and the
City of London together, extending over 700 square miles^ may be oonndered as con-
taining rather above 3,000,000 of inhabitants, residmg in about 475,000 houses, and
the rental for taxation about 14^800,000/. The magnitude of the interest at stake was
*Iso shown by Mr. Newmarch, who stated in his evidence that the total value of pro*
perty insurable agunst fire within six miles of Charing Cross was not less than
900,000,000/., and of this not more than abont 800,000,000/. were insured.
A new force, under the management of the Board of Works, and with the title of the
Metropolitan Fire Brigade, embodying the whole of the present force and engines of
the London Fire Establishment, is doubly strengthened. The plan decided on is that of
Captain Shaw, who has been appointed its chi^ superintendent. The force consists of
chiefs and 350 officers and men, 4 steam fioating-engines, 4 large land-steamers, 27
small land-steamers, and 37 large mannal engines, with horses, drivers, &c. These are
distributed among 33 large and 56 small fire-stations, protecting an area of about 117
square miles. Compared with the previous fire Brigade, the increase is 72 additional
stations, 219 extra firemen, 2 large fioating and 2 large land-steamers, 21 small land-
steamers, and 61 manual engrines. The cost of its maintenance is not to exceed 50,000/.
per annum, partiy contributed by a public rate of \d, in the pound, 10,000/. contributed
^ the varions metropolitan fire-insurance companies, and 10,000/. from the Qovem-
ment. There are nearly 500 parish engines in the metropolis, but not more than 20
were considered to be sufficiently cffident to be accepted in the new force.
By the establishment of telegraphic communication between the central station in
Watling-street and the other principal stations, the necessary force of men and engines
^Q be despatched to the required spot in a much shorter time than formerly. There
^^ also telegraph Unes to docks, railways, wharves, and warehouses.
By the aid of the telegraph the firemen at each station can now be informed of the locality of s fire
inth much greater certainty than formerly. By means of fixed compasses at each obsenratorr, "oross-
IJ^ngs are taken from distant points," and the results sent to the central station in Watlmgr-street.
f^^^Uflt locality is then ascertained % observing on a majp the spot at which the lines conyerse. The
^^^1^^ b iimply the reverse of that by which a ship's position is ascertained at sea," and can be easiW
SS^vpUshed in the three minutes occapied in turning out an engine.— (Capt. Shaw's Report, 1864.)
^oe erowds at fires are now kept off by stretched wire-ropes.
844 CURIOSITIES OF LONDON.
FLEET FEISON {THE),
ABOLISHED and removed in 1846, after nearly eight centnrieB' existence, was in-
disputably named from the creek or stream of the Fleet, upon the eastern hank of
which it was erected. Thu was once a busy river covered with ships and small craft ;
now it is a dark, hidden stream.
The prison was formerly held in conjunction with the manor of Leveland, in Kent,
and with "the king's houses at Westminster:" the whole being part of the ancient
possessions of the See of Canterbury, traceable in a grant from Archbishop Lanfranc,
soon after the accession of William the Conqueror. The wardenship or seijeanrsy of
the prison was andently held by several eminent personages, who also had custody of
the king's palace at Westminster.* It was ''a place," in the worst sense of the
phrase ; for, so long ago as 1586, the persons to whom the Warden had underlet it
were guilty of cruelty and extortion— crimes, however, characteristic of the Court of
Star Chamber, of which the Fleet was at this time the prison. Up to this period, its
history is little better than a sealed book ; the burning of the prison by the followers
of Wat Tyler seeming to have been the only noticeable event.
In the reigns of Edward VI. and Mary, the Fleet was tenanted by several victims of
religious bigotry. Bishop Hooper was twice committed to the Fleet, which he only
quitted (1556) for the stake and the fire at Olouoester ; upon his way whither, he slept
at the Angel Inn, St. Clement's : in the Fleet, his bed was "a little pad of straw, with
a rotten covering;" his " chamber was vile and stinking."
The Warden's fees in the reign of Elizabeth were : an Archbishop, Duke, or Duchess^
for his commitment-fee, and the first week's " dyett," 2\L 10«. ; a lord, spiritual or
temporal, \Ql, hs, \Qd, ; a knight, hi. ; an esquire, Zl. 6f . 8^. ; and even " a poor man
in the wards, that hath a part at the box, to pay for his fee, having no dyett^ Is. Ad**
The Warden's charge for license to a prisoner " to go abroad" was 2(k{. per diem.
From the reign of Elizabeth to the sixteenth year of Charles I. (1641), the Star-
Chamber Court was in full activity ; and several bishops and other persons of distinction
were imprisoned in the Fleet for their religious opinions. Thither, too, were consigned the
political victims of the Star Chamber : two of the most interesting cases of this period
being those of Prynne and Lilburne. Prynne was taken out of the prison, and, after
suffering pillory, branding, mutilation of the nose and loss of ears, was remanded to the
Fleet. Lilburne — ** Freeborn John" — and his printer, were committed to the Fleet
for libel and sedition : the former was smartly whipped at the cart's tail, from the
prison to the pillory, placed between Westminster Hsil and the Star Chamber ; and
subsequently double ironed in the prison wards.
Another tenant of the Fleet at this period was James Howel, the author of the
Familiar Letters, several of which are dated from the prison. By a letter " to the
Earl of B., from the Fleet," Nov. 20, 1643, Howel was arrested " one morning be-
times," by five men armed with " swords, pistols, and bils," and some days after com-
mitted to the Fleet ; ** and," he adds, " as far as I see, I must lie at dead anchor in this
Fleet a long time unlesse some gentle yale blow thence to make me launch out." Then
we find him consoling himself with the reflection that the English people are in
effect but prisoners, as all other islanders are. Other letters, by Howel, date from the
Fleet, 1645-6-7.
After the abolition of the Star Chamber, in 1641, the Fleet became a prison for
debtors only, and for contempt of the Court of Chancery, Common Pleas, and Ex-
chequer. It appears to have been used for the confinement of debtors from the thir-
teenth century, at least, by a petition from John Frauncey, a debtor in the Fleet,
▲.D. 1290.
Tlie prison was burnt down in the Qreat Fire ; when the prisoners were removed to
Caroone or Caron House, in South Lambeth, until the Fleet was rebuilt on thcoriginalsite.
Long after the Star Chamber was abolished, the "Wardens continued their extor-
tionate fees, and loading debtors with iron : their cruelties were exposed in 1696. In
1727» after a parliamentary investigation, Bambridge and Huggins (Wardens) and some
* To the Warden belonged the rents of the shops in Westminster Hall.
FLEET PBI80K 345
of their servantB were tried for different murders, yet all escaped by a verdict of not
guilty ! Hogarth has, however, made them immortal in their infamy, by his picture
of Bambridge under examination, whilst a prisoner is explaining how he has been
tortnred.
One Dance, the son of the architect, was imprisoned in the Fleet as a debtor, and,
in a poem entitled the JBumaurs of the Fleet, 1749, has described the inmates of " this
poor but merry place," its rackets, or wrestle, bilUards, backgammon, and whist ; the
rough justice of drenching disturbers of the peace beneath the pump. Dance's book
has a frontispiece of the prison-yard : a new-comer treating the gaoler, cook, and
others, to drink; racket-playing against the high brick-wall, with ehevaux-de-frise
mountings, and a pump and a tree in one comer. Dance tells of a " wind-up to-day in
a prison," — ^tbat watchmen repeated. Who goes out ? from half-past nine till St. Paul's
dock struck ten, to ^ve visitors notice to depart ; when the last stroke was given, they
cried. All told; the gates were locked, and nobody suffered to go out upon any
account The reader will, doubtiess, recollect Mr. Dickens's life-like pictures of the
Fleet, in his Pickwick Fapers.
In the Riots of 1780, the Fleet was destroyed by fire, and the prisoners liberated by
the rioters. Moat of the papers and Prison records were lost ; though there remain
icattered books and documents of several centuries back. The Warden had been
directed by the Lord Mayor not to make any resistance to the mob, which, as an eye-
witness informed the writer of a short History of the Fleet published in 1845, might
hsTe been easily dispersed by a few soldiers. The rioters were polite enough to send
notice to the prisoners of the period of their coming ; and, on being informed it would
he inconvenient on account of the lateness of the hour, postponed their visit to the
following day.
Immediately after " the Riots," the prison was rebuilt : it consisted chiefly of one
long brick pile parallel with Farringdon-street, and standing in an irregularly-shaped
area, so as to leave open spaces before and behind, connected by passages round each
other : this pile was called the Master's Side. The front in Farringdon-street bad an
arched opening into a room, and was technically called " the gprate," from its crossed
iron bars. Above was inscribed, "Pray remember the poor prisoners having no allow-
y^f* a small box was placed at the window-sill, to receive the charity of passengers
in the street, while a prisoner within shouted in suppliant tone the above prayer. This
^^ a relic of the ancient prison, corresponding with the " begging at the grate" in some
old comedies; and "having a part at the box" already mentioned. Disorderly
pngoners were put in the stocks, or strong-room ; and those who attempted to escape were
wnfined in a tub at the prison-gate. There was likewise " the Running Box ;" that is,
A man running to and fro in the neighbouring streets, shaking a box, and begging the
PBasengers to put money into it, for the poor prisoners in the Fleet. In Tempest's Cries
^f London, 1710, is a representation of the bearer of the Running Box, uiscribed,
"Remember the poor prisoners." At his back is suspended, by leathern straps, a
ci'^ered basket for broken victuals; he carries in one hand a staff, and in the other a
small round deep box, with an aperture in the lid for receiving alms in money.
Above the entrance to the prison was the figure 9 ; so that a delicate address given
oy the prisoners was "No. 9, Fleet Market."
PiiJ^M *^*^ "atrange bedfellows" did debt— a phase of mlaery— make men aoqnainted with in the
rw } "^ priwmer was trnwiliing to go to the Common Side (for which he paid nothing), he had the
i^^A- ^^^ ^^^ *°^ "Bartholomew Fair/' the lowest and sanken story, where he paid U. 3d. for
oe onoutarbed uae of a room ; or ap to some of the better apartments, where he paid the aame rent
whn f 'I'^iect to chommage— «.«., a fellow-prisoner pat into nis room, or " chummed upon him," bat
DriL nn. ^^ '^^ ^ ^7 ^ payment of 4t. 6d. per week, or more, aeoording to the ftilnesa of the
^^^' I ^^' prisoner woald then provide himself with a common lodging, bjr letting which
Tk^"^* "^ ^ Fleet were known to have accomalated handreds of poonds in the coarse of a few years.
^aepTMon sometimes had 1000 himates.
lUttiJ? ^P'^^hoat a sad scene of recreant waste, vagabondism, and rafBan recklessness : it had a
^^»^bed : and a racket-groand, where Cavanagh was a noted fives-player. (See Hazlitt's life of him,
withttT"'* * ^^' ISl^O Here yoa might hear the roar of the great town fh>m withoat, in contrast
churk!? *f*S°*°t life within the prison-walls, above the duooMx-de-frU* of which might be seen a
^ Happily, this pest of a prison, the Fleet, by Act of Parliament, 1842, was abolished,
>t8 few inmates were drafted to the Queen's Prison. The property, covering nearly
846 CURIOSITIES OF LONDON.
an acre of ground, was purchased of the GoTemment by the Corporation of London for
25,000/. The prison was taken down, and the materials sold, in 1846 ; oomprisuig nearly
three millions of bricks, 60 tons of lead, 40,000 feet of paving, &c The gromid, after
lying almost useless for 17 years, was sold to the London, Chi^am, and Dover Railway
Company for the erection of their Ludgate station.
The liberty of the JiuU$ and the Dcv-SmZm of the Fleet vaaj be tnoed to the time of Biehaid IL,
when piiaonere were allowed to go at large by bail, or with a baston (tipstaff), for nights and daja
together. This lioenae waa paid for at Sd. per day, and lid. for his keep that shall be with him. These
were ^ly-ralea. However, they were oonflrmed by a mle of Coart daring the reign of James 1. The
Bnles wherein priioneri were allowed to lodge were enlarged in 1824^ so as to inelode the ehorefaes of
St Bride's and St. Martin's, Lndgate; New Bridge-street. BlaokfHara, to the Thames; Doraet-sbeet and
Salisbary-sqoare, and part of Fleet«treet, Ladgate-hill and street, to the entrance of St. Paol's
Churchyard, the Old Bail^, and the lanes, courts. &c, in the vicinitv of the above ; the
extreme drcumferenoe of the liberty about a mile and a hall Those requiiing the rales had to
provide suretios for thetr forthcoming, and keeping within the boundaries, and to pay a percentage
on the amount of debts fbr which they were detamed ; which also entitled them to the libertv of the
Day-rules, enabling them during term, or the sitting of the Courts at Westminster, to go abroad during
the day. to transact or arrange their af&drs, Ac. The Fleet and the Queen's Bench were the only prisons
in the kingdom to which these privileges had for centuries been attached.
Meet Mmrriagee, Lb. dandestine marriagei, were performed in this prison pre-
viously to the year 1764 ; and thongh not legal and regular, they were tacitly recog-
nised as being valid and indissoluble. Many of these weddings were^eally performed
in the chapel of the prison ; though, as the practice extended, " the Fleet parsons" and
tavern-keepers in the neighbourhood fitted up a room in their lodgings or houses as a
chapel; and most of the taverns near the Fleet kept their own registera. In 1702,
the Bishop of London interfered to prevent this scandalous practice, but vrith little
effect ; and it was not until the Act of Parliament came into operation, March 25»
1754, that the custom was put an end to. On the day previously (March 24^) in ooe
register-book alone, were recorded 217 marriages, which were the last of the Fleet
weddings. In 1821, a collection of these register-books, w^hing more than a ton
(recording Fleet marriages between 1686 and 1754), was purchased by Government,
and deposited in the Registry Office of the Bishop of London, Qodliman-street, Doctors'
Commons. Many celebrated names figure in these registers; and although they are
not now, as fbrmerly, received in evidence on trials, they are not altogether useless as
matters of record, ic For their history, their parsons, and registers, see Mr. J. Bum's
volume.
Pope commemorates the Fleet Prison as a " Haunt of tiie Muses.** Lord Surrnr, the poet, was twice
imprisoned here; sa was Naah for writing the satirical play of the I»U qfDogt. Wycherier, the wit and
dramatist, lay in the Fleet aeven years, ruined through his Countess' settlement being disputed. Sir
Bichard Baker was one of the most unfortunate debtors confined here : he married m 1630, and soon
after got into pecuniary difficulties, and waa thrown into the Fleet where he spent ttie remaning years
of his life, writing his Ckromiele and other worka as a means of subsistence : be died in 1614-^ in
extreme poverty, and waa interred in old St Bride's Church. Francis Sandforo, author of the Oentor-
logical Buton, died in the Fleet, in 1693. Passing to another class of committalw Keys was sent here
for marrrlng the Lady Mary Qrey, the sister of Lady Jane Grej ; Dr. Donne for marrying Sir George
More's daoghter without her fltther's knowledse: Sir Bobert Killigrew, for speaking to Sir Thomas
Orerbury, as he came from visiting Sir Walter Baieigh ; the Conntesa of Dorset, for preasing into the
FrivT Chamber, and importuning James I., ** contraij to commandment ;" and Lucius Car^, Viscooiit
Falkland, for sending a challenge. Curll's Corinna (Mrs. Thomaa) was a prisoner fai the Fleet for soma
time ; Mrs. Comelys died here in 1797 ; and Parson Ford, iu 1731. Parson Keith, of May Fair, was hero
In 1768; and Bobert Lloyd. Churchill's friend, in 1704. Arthur Murphy, provoked by the satires of
Churchill and Lloyd, desciues them as among the poor haoka
** On Ludgate-hill who bloody murders write,
Or pass In Fleet-street supperlesa the night"
ILowel's LetUn, already mentioned, have had a parallel in our time, inffichard OngHefsIM
Paper9, " a weekly epistle on public matters," inscribea to Thomaa Thomhiil, Esq., of Fixby Hall, York-
ahire, whose steward Oastler had been, and at whose suit he was imprisoned here j he was liberated by
subscription, Feb. 12, 1844: and a bronze group, by Philip, has been erected at Bradford, in memory
of his advocacy of the Ten Hours' Factory Bill* Mr. Bowcroft also wrote a Tolnme of FUet Fapen.
FLEET RTFEE AND FLEET DITCE.
THE small, rapid stream Fleet, which has given name to the Prison and Street, and
the portion of the City Wall ditch from Holhom to the Thames, has its origin in
a nursery-ground on the eastern ridge of Hampstead Hill. Here it becomes a sewer,
after which it issues from the side of a bank below Well Walk ; and then flows down a I
small valley of gardens and orchards to near the reservoir of the Hampstead water-heads,
to feed which the springs of the Fleet were collected in 1589^ and were afterwards leased
FLEET BIVEB AND FLEET DITOH. 847
oat by the City of LondoiL From Hampstead the Fleet may be traced to the upper
part of Kentish Town, after which it is diverted fixnn its origimd course for the sewer-
age of Camden Town ; bat its ancient channel may be traced at the back of the Castle
Tavern, Kentish Town, next in the King^s-road, near St. Pancras Workhouse ; and
aboat 1825, the Fleet was oonspicnons all along the Bagnigge-wells-road, but is now
covered over. Its fhrther conrse is nnder the walls of the House of Correction, in
Cold-bath-fields, thence to the workhouse in Coppice-row, under Eyre-street (for-
merly Hockley-in-the-Hole), having here been formerly j(nned by " the Itiver of the
Wells," formed by Clerken, Skinners', and other wells ; and thus to the bottom of
Holbom. Here it received the waters of the Old Bourne, whidi rose near Middle-row,
and the channel of which forms the sewer of Holbom Hill to this day. Thence the
united streams flowed beneath what is now called Farringdon-street into the Thames.
Stow mentions "that a Parliament being holden at Carlisle in the year 1807, the
S5 Edward I., Henry Lacy Earle of Linoolne complained, that whereas (in times past)
the course of water, running at London under Old-borne Bridge, and Fleet Bridge, into
the Thames, had beene of such bredth and depth that ten or twelve ships, Navies at
once, with Merchandises, were wont to come to the aforesaid bridge of Fleet, and some
of them unto Old-borne Bridge," &c. An anchor has been discovered as high as the
present Bagnigge-wells-road ; and even, it is said, the remains of a ship, in the bed of
this ancient river, near Camden Town. The upper supply of water being diverted, the
ditch became stagnant, and into it were thrown all sorts of ofial, dogs and cats, and
meaaled hogs, whidi Ben Jonson has minutely described : it became also a kind of
(^oaca mcueima, impassable with boats ; in 1652 it was ordered to be cleansed, but the
nuisance was scarcely abated.
The Fleet was anciently crossed by four bridges within the boundary of the City :
the first of these, Holbom Bridge, was covered up in 1802, but the arch and part of
^ parapet were discovered during the repair of the ditch, in 1841.
In the bed of the Fleet many Boman and Saxon coins have been discovered. In 1670 various Boman
vteDsils were found between Holbom and Fleet Bridge; beddee Boman coins, including silver rlng-
^aaoej. At Holbom Bridge were dog np two brazen lare»y aboat fonr inches long,— Bacchus and Ceres ;
alto arrow-heads, scales, and seals, with the proprietors' names upon them in Saxon oharacters ; spozw
Kwela, keys, and da^^rs ; medals, crosses, cradfizes, fto.
The second was Fleet-lane Bridge, near the Prison. Fleet Bridge, the third, con-
nected Fleet-street with Ludgate-hill : it was destroyed m the Great Fire of 1666;
and in its place, another, the breadth of the street (Strype), was erected, omamented
with ^ne-apples and the City arms; it was finally removed in 1765. The fourth
^"^^^ crossed the Fleet opposite Bridewell, formerly the site of a tower, supposed to
We appertained to the Saxon kings of England.
After the Ckreat Fire, the Fleet, or Town Ditch, between Holbom and the Thames^
was cleansed and deepened by the Corporation, so that barges ascended to Holbom
Bridge, as formerly : wharft and lauding places were constructed ; and Seaooal and
Kewcastle lanes, and large inn-yards, remaining to this day, attest the barge traffic
Seacoal-lane is mentioned imder that name {Secol-lane,) as early as 1253; where,
^btless, the coal was brought in barges up the Fleet river, and stored for domestic
purposes. This " New Canal," as it was called, cost 27,7772., but proved unprofitable :
it became choked with Thames mud, and again relapsed into a common sewer. Gay
sings of its ** muddy current ; and Pope points
** To where Fleet-ditch, with disembogninf streams
BoUs the larffo tribute of dead dogs to Thames,
The king of dykes ! than whom no sluice of mud
With deeper sable blots the sDrer flood."— Tfta Dutuiadf book tt.
Swift thus revels in its delieia, in his City Shower .^-«
" Now froi9 all parts the swelling kennels flow.
And bear their trophies with them as they go;
FOth of all hues and odours seem to tell
What street they sail'd ttom by their sight and smell.
They, as each torrent drives its rapid force.
From Smithfleld to St. 'Pulchre's shape their course.
And In huge confluence joined at Snowhill ridge.
Fall from the Conduit prone to Holbom Bridge :
Bweepingsfrom butchers' stalls, dung, guts, ana blood,
Drown'd puppies, stinking sprats, all orench'd in mud,
Dead oat^ wad tuniip>topa, come tumbling down the flood."
3.i8 CURIOSITIES OF LONDON.
Fleet Ditch U engraved as the frontispiece to Warburton's Fope, vol. v. (Z^
Dunciad.) The ditch grew to be bo pestilential a nuisance,* its slime smothering manj
persons who fell into it, that the space between Holbom Bridge and Fleet-street was
arched over, and Stocks Market removed here, changed to Fleet Market, and opened
for the sale of meat, fish, and vegetables. Sept, 30, 1737 ; and upon the site of Stocks
Market was built the Mansion House. The remaining portion of the Fleet, the mouth
of which Pennant describes as " a mudd j and genuine ditch," continued open until
1765, at the building of Blackiriars Bridge ; the foul stream was then arched over,
and entered the Thames on the west side of the bridge, to be conveyed some distance
into the river by a culvert ; the vaulting at this end is 12 feet high, and tlie channel
18 feet wide. (See Sewebs.)
Since 1841, Fleet Ditch, parallel with Field-lane, has been covered over; but it might
be traced in the alleys at the back of Cow-cross, whence it continued open to Bay-street,
Clerkenwell ; while Brookhill and Tummill streets kept in memory the brook which
ran here into the Fleet, and the mill belonging to the Knights of St. John of Jerusalem,
which was turned by its waters.
In 1829 was completed a new market between the north end of Farringdon-street
and Shoe-lane ; whither, on Nov. 20, was removed Fleet Market, the premises of
which were then taken down. At the south end of Famngdon-street is a granite
obelisk, erected in 1839 to the memory of Alderman Waithman, who commenced busi-
ness as a linendrapcr dose to this spot in 1785 ; was Lord Mayor in 1823-2^, and was
returned six times to Parliament for the City of London. Opposite Waithman's obelisk
is a monument which bears the name of a much less worthy citizen, John Wilkes,
and the year of his mayoralty, 1775.
In 1865, the valley of the Fleet, from Coppice-row to Farringdon-street, was cleared
of many old and decaying dwellings, many of a date anterior to the Fire of London.
From Coppice-row a fine view of St. Paul's Cathedral was opened by the removal of
these buildings.
In making the excavation for the great sewer which now oonvejs from view the Fleet Ditch, at a
depth of ^>ont 13 feet below the aorfaoe in Bay-street, near the comer of Little Saffiron-hill, the work-
men came npon the pavement of an old street, oonf iating of very large blocks of ragstone of irr^ular
diape. An examination of the paving-stonea showed that the street had been well used : they are worn
qoite smooth by the Ibotsteps and traffic of a past generation. Below the old street was fonnd another
{>hase of Old London. Thickly covered with slime were piles of oak, hard and black, which had seem-
ngly been portions of a raiU-dam. A few feet below were very old wooden water-pipes, nothing but the
roogh trunks of trees. The course of time and the weight of matter above the old pavement had pressed
the gravel, clay, granitfi» portions of tiles, Ac, into a hard and almost solid mass, and it was ciuious to
observe tliat near the old surface were great numbers of pins. Whither have the pins sone P is a query
which has puzzled many. The now hard concrete, stuck with these usefhl articles, almost like a pin-
cushion, is a partial reply to the query. The 13 feet of newer deposit would seem to have accumulated
in two or three centuries : it is not unlikely that a portion of the rubbish fh>m the Ci^ after the Great
Fire was shot here.— TJk« BttUder.
FLEHT'STSEET,
NAMED from the river Fleet, and extending from the junction of Farringdon-
street and New Bridge-street, is one of the most andent and celebrated thorough-
fares in London. For many centuries it has been noted for its exhibitions and proces-
sions ; its printers, stationers, and bookseUers ; its early coffee-houses and taverns^ and
banking-houses. It has leading from it thirty-four streets, lanes, and courts.
Fleet-street was noted for its signs: the counting of them, " trom Temple Bar to the ftirthest cost-
dnit in Cheapeide," &c., is quoted as a remarkable instance of Fuller's memory. {Life, Ac, p. 76, ed.
16620 The swinging of one of these broad signs, in a high wind, and the weight of iron on which it
acted, sometimes Drought the wall down; and one front-fkll of this kind in Fleet-street maimed sereral
persona, and killed" two young ladies^ a cobler, and the King's jeweller."— T*« Doctor, by B. Soathey,
one vol. edit. p. 287.
Before the Great Fire, and long after. Fleet-street was badly paved ; the houses,
mostly of timber, overhung in all imaginable positions ; and the shops were rude sheds
with a penthouse, beneath which the tradesmen unceasingly called " What d'ye lack,
gentles? What d'ye lack ?" It was then but a suburb. Temple-bar was originally
* Chamberlayne (1727), however, mentions it as "a mighty chargeable and boeatiftil work: tbo
curious stone bridges over it; the many huge vaults on each side thereof, to treasure up Newcastle ooali
for the use of the poor."
FLEET-STREET. 349
a wooden gatehouse acron the road to divide the City from Westmiiuter; and often in
ileet-fltreet might he seen men pkying at footbalL
The ftreei was enoombered with postB, iip(m wbioh the performtnoM at t^^
bcnoe poatmg-biUs. Tajlor, the wa£as^poet, reUtee that Master Field, the pUyer, riding up Fleet-street
St t great pace, a gentleman called him, and asked hhn what play was to be played thatdayP He behig
sniHT to be it^red om so MtoIoiis a demand, answered that he might see what play was to be played on
every po$t, " I cry your metej" aaid the gentleman ; " I took you for a pott, you rode so ttuw*
Fleet-fltreet retains its oelehritj for printing-offices in the a^oining lanes and conrts,
greatly increased hy the newspapers of the kst half centnry. The Great Fire stopped
three houses eastward of St. Donstan's, and within a few doors of the Inner Temple-
gate, nearly opporite.
No. 103 (now Sunday Times office) was formerly the shop of Alderman Waithman,
whither he removed from the sonth end of Fleet-market. At No. 106, the sign of the
Bed Lion, Hardham's 87-BQaff was first made and sold by John Hardham, olim
Ganick's ** numberer.'' In 1824, Nov. 14, several old honses on the south side of the
street were destroyed by fire, besides that in which Milton had lodged, in St. Bride's
Charchyard. Snbseqaently was opened the present architectaral avenue to St. Bride's
Church, designed by J. B. Fkpworth : cost, 10,000^. At the east comer. No. 86, was
pobliahed by D. Bogne, m 1855, the first edition of the CwriotUiet of London, of which
3000 co;nes were sold.
In Bride-lane is the ancient St. Bride's Well, over which is a pump ; and here is
Cogers* Hall, a tavern, where the Cogers met from 1756. Curran made his first
oratorical effort among the Cogers; Daniel CyConnell was a member; as was also
Judge Keogh.
In Shoe-lane, lea^mg to Holbom-hill, was a notorious cockpit in Pepys's time. At the
Mrth end, from 1378 to 1647, was the town-house of the Bishop of Bangor; and a
pvt of the garden, with lime-trees and a rookery, existed in 1759 ; the mansion
was taken down in 1828. Shoe-lane is associated with four poets: in the burial-
ground of St. Andrew's Workhouse, now covered by Farringdon Market, was buried
C^'batterton ; in St. Andrew's Churchyard lies Henry Nede ; in Gunpowder-alley, in
1658, died in abject poverty, Richard Lovelace, the cavalier poet, " the most amiable
and beautiful person that eyes ever beheld ;"* in 1749, in a wretdied lodging-house off
Sboe>lane, died Bichard Boyce. In Gunpowder-alley, too, lived Evans, l^e astrologer,
the friend and instructor of Lilly, the " Sidrophel" of Sudihrae.
Opposite Shoe-lane was the famous Fleet-street Conduit. {See p. 288.) At No. 134^
the Globe tavern, frequented by Goldsmith, and Macklin the actor, was held the Robin
Hood Club. ScUishufy-court, nearly facing, was once the inn of the bishops of Salis-
onry • then of the Sackvilles, and was called Sackville House and Dorset House ; whence
^net-street After the Great fire. Wren built for Davennnt " the Duke's Theatre,"
opened 1671, where Betterton played : it had a picturesque front to the Thames; upon
Its site are the City Gas-works. Salisbury or Dorset^court had also its play-house,
originally the granary of Salisbury House; it was pulled about by sectarian soldiers in
16 19, rebuilt in 1660, but destroyed in the Great Fire. The court was a scene of the Mug-
noose Riots of 1716, and here was a noted Mug-house. In Salisbury-court (now square)
Aicbardson wrote his Pamela, and printed his own novels ; his printmg-office being at
the top of the courts now No. 76, Fleet-street : Goldsmith was once lUchardson's
"reader,*" and here was printed Maithmd's London, folio, 1739. Richardson was
^ted here by Hogarth, Dr. Johnson, Dr. Young ; Seeker, Archbishop of Canterbury ;
ttid Mrs. Barbauld, when a playful child. Here was also the printing-office of Gillette
twice destroyed, in 1805 and 1810, by fire : the premises were rebuilt; and here, in
ISU were burnt 10,000 copies of the Memoir of the notorious Mary Anne Clarke, upon
eondition of her debts being paid, and an annuity of 400/. granted her : the burning
occupied three entire days.
^ater-lane (now WhUefriare-etreeCj leads to WhitefHars, named from a convent of
^hit«-robed Carmelites, and called Alsatia from 1608 to 1696 {tee Scott's Fortunes of
r^^^O; extending from Fleet-street to the Thames, and fVom the western nde of
* ater-laoe to the Temple : it was a privileged sanctuary, abolished in 1697 : a notorious
iQ. * pi^nire Petty, haberdasher, iii Fleet-etreet, carried twenty Bhillinn to Lovelace every Hondsj
""^0%, from Sir Many, and Charles Cotton, Eeq,, for months, ontlf the poef ■ death.
850 0UBI08ITIJE8 OF LONDON.
retreat fat cheating etediton, had iti cant Lombard-street; and had many a Cheatly.
ShamweU, Hacknm, and ScapealL (See Shadwell's Squire of Aleaiia.) At tho
Harrow, in Water-lane, lived Filby, Cfoldsmith's tailor. Na 64 Fleet-Street^ mnch
altered, ia the Bolt-in-Tun Inn, mentioned in a grant to the White Friars in 1443,
as " SoepUium vocatnm Le BoUenUm ; " the sign is an arrow, or hoUf partly in a ton.
In Whitefinars-street, adjoining, is the Black Lion, a small inn-yard, with the exterior
wooden gallery in put remaining.
At t^ east comer of JPeterhorough-eowrt was one of the earliest shops for the
Instantaneous Light apparatus^ " Hertner's Eupyrion" (phosphoms and ozymuriate
matches, to he dipped in snlphnric acid and asbestos), the costly predecessor of the
Lndfer-match. Nearly opposite were the works of Jacob Perkiiu, the engineer of the
steam-gon, exhibited at the Adelaide Gallery, Strand; and which the Dnke of Wel-
lington truly foretold wonld never be advantageously employed in warfiure. Aboat
midway on the north side lived Thomas Hardy, the bootmaker, who was tried with
Home Tooke, in 1794, for treason ; he was also one of the three who commenced the
London Corresponding Society, and its secretary ; he died in his 82nd year, and is
buried in Bunhill-fieldii, beneatii a semi-political monument.
On the north side is BoU-etmri, where, at No. 8, Dr. Johnson lived firom 1776 till
Ins death in 1784 ; while here, Johnson nnsnocessfnlly applied Qn 1776) to the Earl
of Hertford, requesting apartments in Hampton Court Palace. Johnson's boose was
subsequently Bensley's printing-office, and was burnt June 26, 1819. The Johnson's
Mead tavern was not contemporary with the Doctor. (See Notes and Queries, No.
123.) At No. 4if Ferguson, the astronomer, died Nov. 1776. In the courts Cobbett
wrote, printed, and published his Political Segister, and sold Indian com. 7%e
Begister was subsequently published at No. 88, Fleet-street, where was exhibited a
huge iron Qrid^xin, which Cobbett had made for his political agn. No. 3, Bolt-coort,
was bequeathed to the Medical Sodety of London by Dr. Lettsom ; over the door is
an emblematic bas-relief. The Sodety removed, in 1851, to S3, Qeorge-street,
Hanover-square.
Wine^offiee'court : Qoldsmith lodged here in 1761, when Johnson first visited him ;
Goldsmith then wrote for the PubUe Ledger newspaper, and began the Vtear of
Wdkefield. Here is an old chop-hou8e» the Cheshire Cheese, long noted for punch.
Johnson's'court : at No. 7, Samuel Johnson lived 1766 to 1776; the John Bull
newspaper was commenced here, at No. 11, in 1820, with Theodore Hook as editor.
Nortiiward is Chmgh-square, where, at No. 17« Johnson compiled the greater portion
of his Dictionary, 1748 to 1758.
Serjeantt^ Jim, on the south side of Fleet-street, was formerly an inn of court ; the
handsome offices were designed by Adam. No. 18, Fleet-street, tiie Amicable Life
Assurance office, was rebuilt in 1839 ; the Sodety was first diartered by Queen Anne.
Ckaitx-ooust. (See p. 296.)
Bed Liou-eouH : printing-offices of John Nidiols (OetUleuum's Magaeine), burnt
Feb. 8, 1808; of Messrs. Yalpy (Classics), where Bunch was next printed; and of
Bichard Taylor, F.R.S. (PhilosophiccU Magazine),
Mare-court (originally Barn-alley), opposite Fetter-lane, was noted for its public-
houses and cook-shops, often mentioned in 17th century plays : it was a sanctuary
nntU 1697.
No. 17, Fleet-street, is an interesting specimen of olden street-architecture ; above
the gateway to the Inner Temple, of pkiin Jacobean design, with a semicircular arch,
and the Pegasus in the spandrik. It was built in 1609, and was not as inscribed,
<« Formerly the Palace of Henry VIII. and Cardinal Wolsey."
One of the CutioiUUt of Fleet-itreet was Mn. Salmon's Moving Waxwork, Ofriginsny estahUahed at
the Golden Salmon, St Hartin'a, near Aldersgate (HarL MS. 6931 : Brit Mna.) :^it would have been
ridlcoloos for the inffenlooa Mn. Salmon to have lived at the aign of the Troot" CThe Spectator, Ko. 28.)
Thence the Waxwori was removed to No. 189, Fleetrstreet site of Meeara. Praea'a banUng-bmiae. At
the death of Mn. Salmon, aged 90, the collection was purohased by Mr. Clarke, a sorgeou ^flither of Sir
Charles Manafield Clarke, M.D.). as an inveatment for nia wife. Mra. Clarke oonthmed the exhibition
as Mn. Salmon's, at No. 189, until 1795, when it waa removed to No. 17, near^f opposite^ at the cast
oomer of Inner Temple-lane ; and here shown, with a figure of Anne Siggs, on cmtdies, at the door,
until Mn. Clarke's death in 1818. The collection, much reduced, waa then sold for 601., and aubsequentlj
ahown at the west comer of Water-lane. Mn. Salmon, with more probability, atjled the above house
*' once the PaUwe of Henry Prince of Wales, son of King James I. ;" bat this realdenoe is not mentioBed
FLEET-STREET, 351
bj bis biognmhen : the fint-floor firont-room has, however, an enriched plaster ceiling, inscribed P.
(triple plnmej H^ which, with part of the carved wainscoting, denote the bouse to be of the time of
James I. Stdl, we do not find in the lives of Prince Henry any indication of this house as a royal
palace. It appears that the houses tiiough never the residence of Prince Henry, was the t^fie^
m wUek the OcrnneU for fk« MoMOMment ^ the Jhtehgf qf Cornwall S$tate$ Md fhtnr ritiinffg, in his
time ; and in the Oalendar of State Papers, edited by Mrs. Qreen, we find entries dated fcom the Council-
Chamber, in Fleet'Street. The interior of the house is in the style of Inigo Jones, whose first office wag
Surveyor of the Works to Henry, Prince of Wales, until the year 1618.
In Fleet^treet are the oldest banking firms, except Stone, Martin & Co., Lorn-
baid-fitreet, who claim to be the Bacoeasors of Sir Thomas Gresham. Ko. 1, Fleet*
street (formerly the Marygold) is the banking-house of Child and Co., who date from
soon after the Restoration; they occupy the rooms over Temple-bar for stowage of
their books of accounts.
This firm was ibonded in the reign of Charles I., when Franda Child, apprentioe to William Wheeler,
a goldsmiUi, whoee shop was on the site of the present banking-house^ udd the foundation of his fortune
by marrying his masters dawhter, by which he succeeded to the estate and business. ^ Messrs. Child
have the accounts of Neli Gwynne ; and among the records of the firm are the accounts of the
putoer, Alderman BadiwelL for the sale of Dunkirk to the French. The principal of the firm is the
Coostets of Jersey, wife of George Child Vllliers, Earl of Jersey, who assumed the name of Child upon
liis Coontess inheriting the estates of her maternal grandfather, Robert Child. Esq. of Osterley Park,
Middksez. '* In the catalogue of a sale of prints, &c., by Mr. Hodgson, 9th June, 1834, lot 270, is an
ariginal sketch in oil by Hogarth, representing a memorable occurrence in the house of Child and Co.,
vfaea they were delivered by temporary munificence of the Duchess of Marlborough."
Next is (Gosling's, Ko. 19, sign of Three Squirrels, in the iron^work of a window^
originally on a lozenge shield.
^GcsUdo', as founder of the house, is thus mentioned in the account of Secret Service Monies of
Charles If. and James I. : "To Richard Bakenham, in ftill, for several parcells of gold and silver laoe^
boofffat of WilHam Gosling and partners, on 2nd May, 1674, by the Dutchess of Cleveland, for the wedding-
clothes of Lady Sussex and Lidifield, 6402. 8«."
Messrs. Hoaree*, No. 37 (Golden Bottle), dates from 1680.
The Golden Bottle is said to represent the flask carried by the founder oi the establishment, when
jooxnqring to London, as the stoiy-books say, to seek his fortune. Richard Hoare^ Emu, theprincipal of
the firm, suooeeded Sir P. Child as Alderman of the Ward of Farringdon Without ; was SheriiTin 1740-41,
m vhieh year there were three Lord Majors. Mr. Hoare has left a manuscript Journal of his shrieval^,
iUiBtrating various customs, privileges, and "treats" of the City, and concluding thus: " after being
^iffUfd. with sack and walnuts, I returned to my own house in my private capacil^, to my great ccm-
lolition and comforL" He was Lord Mayor in 1746.
Fleet-street was long ago the abode of dentists and makers of artificial teeth. An
Almanac of 1709, advertises, " John Watts, operator, who applies wholly to the said
bnsinessy and liyes in Jiacquet-eourt, Fleet-street."
Fleet-street has been the cradle of printing, almost from its first introduction : Wynkyn de Words
(anistant of Caxton), at the Golden Sun, Swan, and Falcon, the latter in Faloon-conrt ; the imprint to
toe DemtutndM Jogomt is as follows :
"Emprynted at London in Fletestre
te at the signe of the Swane by
me Wynkyn de Words
Inthe vereof our
lorde i. X
oocco
and XI
V*^ however, exists a book inscribed : ** emprynted by me Richards Pynson at the temple bane of
i^don 14B3." To these may be added RasteU, "* at the signe of the Starrc;" of Richard Tottel, the
amoent Um printer and pubuaher, " within Temple bar, at ttie signe of the Hande and Starre," now the
SP*°f;.wd property of Messrs. Butterworth, who possess all the original leases of the same, including
Tottel ■. in the reign of Henry Vlll., to the present Ume.
The foUowing were also contemporary printers in Fleet-street, viz.: Robert Copland, stationer,
v^^ter, bookseller: author, and translator : his rign, in 1616, was the Rose Garland. John Butler lived
» tbe ngn of 8t John the Evangelist in 1 628. ^omas BerthoUt, King's printer, dwelt at the Lucretia
^""^^ he retired from business about 1541. John Bedel, stationer and printer, lived, in 1631, at the
"«; of Our Lady of Pity. John Waylond, dlizen and stationer, lived at the Blue Garland, 1641. Lawrence
ySrJ^* f "^▼^ ot Calais, was a printer at the Golden Press, by Fleet-bridge. Thomas Godfrey, the
printer of Chaooer's works, Uved near the Temple-bar.
j'o^i^, too, we find the cradle of steam-prinnng: Bensley. of Bolt-court, being the first to aid the
'*^r« of Konig, who had applied to German and other Continental printers unsuooessfolly. Kdnig and
"S^ were lobied by Woodall and Taylor, printers; and out of their joint exertions grew cylindrical
Iffi^ &f ' which Mr. Walter, of the Tim€$ newspaper, was the first to avail himseli; 38Ui of November,
8fw».'.S?^!?^* inking apparatus was, however, superseded bv Cowper's^a vexr important advance.
~ ler to have seen a large working oylinder-maonine, which had been
while he was confined in the King's Bench Prison for debt.
Fleet-street were those at the printing-office of 8. HunUton, in
352 CURIOSITIES OF LONDON.
The old Fleet-street taTenu and ooffee-hotues are mostly iip ptuaaget. Upon the site
of ChiUPt-plaee was tlie Devil Tavem, sign St. Dunstan palling the Devil's nose : liere,
in the Apollo chamber, over the door, were inscribed the verMS by Jonson, commenciiig,
* Wdoome^ all who lead or Ibllow, «
To the oracle of Apollo."
Here Ben Jonson and his sons nsed to malce their liberal meetings ; the mles of Ben's
Clnb in gold letters over the chimney. {Taller, No. 79.) These are preserved in the
premises, at the back of Child's bank, Ko. 1, with a terra-ootta bnst of Apollo : the
contemporary landlord was Sim Wadlow, "the king of skinkers." {Janton.) The
dnb-room, fitted vrith a mnsic-gallery, was afterwards nsed for balls and entertain-
ments ; and the boose continued to be the resort of the wits of the last centory : " I
dined to^lay " (Oct. 12, 1710) " with Dr. Garth and Mr. Addison, at the Devil Tavern,
near Temple-bar ; and Garth treated." (Swift's Journal to StsUa,) Here Dr. Johnson
presided at a supper celebrating the publication of Mrs. Lennox's first book, when the
whole night was spent in festivity. The tavern was taken down in 1788 : opposite is
Apollo-court ; and next door east, is the Cock Tavern, with an old carved and gilt sign-
bird. {See Tayssnb.) The Horn Tavern, now Anderton's Hotel, No. 164, was fiunons
in 1604. {See Coffee-houses : Dick's, Rainbow, and Peele's, pp. 264^ 267, 268.)
No. 39 was " the Mitre^ in Fleet-street," the tavern so often referred to in Boswell's
Life qf Johneon : the Mitre, in Mitre-court, was of much later date. At the Mitre,
in Fleet-street^ in 1640, Lilly met old Will Poole, the astrologer, then living in
Ram-alley. The Royal Society Club dined at the Mitre from 1743 to 1750; and the
Society of Antiquaries met here for some time : the house had its token. This was
Dr. Johnson's favourite supper-house, the parties including Goldsmith, Percy, Hawkes-
worth, and Boswcll. Chamberlain Clark, who died in 1831, aged 92, was the last
surviving of Johnson's Mitre friends. It was a favourite house with Lord StowelL
The premises became Macklin's Poets' Gallery in 1788 ; and lastly Saunders's Auction-
rooms : they were taken down to enlarge the site for Hoare's new Banking-house.
In the bay* windowed house, Nos. 184 and 185, lived Drayton, the poet. At No.
186, was commenced, Nov. 8, 18'19, Notes and Queries, West of St. Dnnstan's is the
Law Life Assurance Office, of Jacobean street-architecture, built by Shaw in 1834 :
next is the passage to Clifibrd's Inn. Chaucer, when a student of the Inner Temple^
was fined 2s. by the Society for beating a Franciscan friar in Fleet-street ; so states
Spcght, the illustrator of the poet. Cowley was bom near Chancery-lane; his father
was an engrosser, not a gprocer, as long stated. Isaac Walton lived two doors west of
Chancery-lane, whither, in 1632, he removed. {See CHANCEBT-LAinE, p. 82.) At No. 197
was Rackstrow's Anatomical Museum, and collection of natural and artifidal corios-
ties, natural magic, &c., exhibited from 1736 to 1798. Sell-yard and JFetter-lane were
once noted for fishing-tackle shops.
Shire-lane (now Lower Serle's-plaoe), hard by Temple-bar, named from its dividing
the City from the Shire, was once a place of note. Here wss bom Sir Charles Sedley,
the poet, and witty contemporary of Rochester ; here lived Elias Ashmole, by turns
astrologer, alchemist and antiquary, who called " father" one Backhouse, an adept, in
Fleet-street> over against St. Dunstan's Church.
In 1658, Ashmole left the astrologers and alchemlBts; in 1600L he was called to the bar in Middle
Temple Hall : and on Jan. 26, 1679, br a fire in hia chambers in tne Middle Temple, he lost most of his
library, a cabinet of 9000 coins, besides, seals, charters, Ac, and a carious collection of engraTcd
portraits.
At the upper end of Shire-lane lived Isaac Bickerstafi^, the Toiler, who led the
deputation of ** Twaddlers" down the lane, across Fleet-street, to Dick's Cofiee-house.
At the Trumpet (afterwards the Duke's Head) public-house, in Shire-lane, the Taller
met his dub ; and in the lane lived Christopher Eat, at whose house originated the
Kit-Eat aub. {See pp. 250, 251.)
Fleet-street was the scene of the annual g^rand bnming of the Pope (on NoTODber 17) in ^e
rei^ of Charles II. ; the torchlight procession beginning at Moorfields, and ending at Fleet-street*
where the effigy of the Pope was burnt, opposite Middle Temple-gate. These saturnalia were kept up
nntll after the expulsion of James II. ; when the anti-popish mummery wss transferred to Nov. 5.
(5m TzifPLB and Txxpi.b Ijaa.)
Towards the west end of Fleet-street have been erected several buildings of highly
FOQ OF LONDON. 353
ornamental character ; as at the jnoction of Chancery-lane and Fleet-street, handsome
Italian; the Crown .Insurance Offices, Venetian, of marble, granite, and oolonred
stone; No. 21, Italian, of the PaUadian school; Ko. 29, of Portland stone, granite^
marble, &c.
Among the Fleet-street booksellers of our time, William Hone must be mentioned :
be commenced bunness at No. 55, about the year 1812; where he published a
pamphlet in vindication of the ill-fated Eliza Penning, who is now believed to have been
guiltless of the crime for which she suffered : the mystery has been thus cleared up by
one of Fenning's iamily attesting that a nephew of Mr. Turner, in Chancery-lane,
when upon his death-bed, in Chelmsford, disclosed that, " many years since, irritated
with his uncle and aunt, with whom he resided, for not supplying him with money, he
availed himself of the absence for a few minutes of the servant-maid from the Icitchen,
stepped into it and deposited a quantity of powdered arsenic on some dough he found
mixed in a pan. Eliza Penning, he added, was wholly ignorant of these facts.'
n
FOG OF LONDON.
T^HIS phenomenon is caused by the millions of blazing coal-fires in the metropolis
■L contributing a vast quantity of fuliginous matter, which, mingling with the
^pom*, partly arising from imperfect drainage, produces that foggy darkness which
Londoners not inaptly term " awful." Sometimes it is of a bottle-green colour; but
if the barometer rise, it will either totally disappear or change into a white mist. At
other times it is of pea-soup yellow ; in the midst of which the street gas-lights appear
lilce the pin-head lamps of old. The latter is the genuine November London Fog.
Oh, Chemistrr, attraotive maid.
Descend, in pity, to our aid :
Come with toy all-penrading gases.
Thy crucibles, retorts, and glasses.
Thy fearftil energies and wonders.
Thy dazzling lights and mimic thnnden ;
Let Carbon In thr train be seen.
Dark Azote and air Oxygen,
And Wollaston and Davy guide
The car that bears them at thy side^
If any power can, any how,
Abate these nuisances, 'tis thou ;
And see to aid thee in the blow.
The biU of Michael Angelo,
O Join (success a thing of course Is)
Thy heavenly to his mortal forces ;
Make all chunnqrs chew the cud
Like hungry cows, as dUmneys should !
And sinee 'tis only smoke we draw
Within our lungs at common law,
Into their thirsty tubes he sent
Fresh air, by act of parliament."
Sejtry Luitr$l,
"First at the dawn of lingering day.
It rises of an ashy grey;
Then deepening wim a sordid stain
Of yellow, like a lion's maue.
Tqwur importunate and dense.
It wars at once with every sense.
The ears escape not. All around
Betums a duU, unwonted sound.
Loath to stand still, aftaid to stir.
The chilled and puzzled passenger,
OftbluMtarlng from the pavement, fidls
To feel his way alonff the rails ;
Or at the crossings^ m the roll
Of every carriage areads the pole.
Sciroe an eclipse with pall so dun
Blots from the Ihce of heaven the sun.
But soon a thicker, darker cloak
Wraps all the town, behold, in smoke.
Which stean^compelUng trade disgorges
From all her ftimaoes and forges
In pitchy clouds too dense to rise,
Dssoends rejected from the skies ;
TUl strugglmg dfqr, extinguished quite.
At noon ^ves plaoe to candle-light.
The Pog, too, sensibly affects the organs of respiration : hence a Scotch physician has
aslced, ** If a x>enou require half a gaUon of pure air per minute^ how many gallons of
this fonl atmosphere must be, as it were, filtered by his lungs in the course of a day ?"
Sometimes the Pog is caused by a very ordinary accident, — a change of wind, thus
>ceoanted for : the west wind carries the smoke of the town eastward in a long train,
extending twenty or thirty miles, as may be seen on a clear day from an eminence five
or rix miles froni the town, — say, from Harrow-on-the-Hill. In this case, suppose the
wind to change suddenly to the east, the g^eat body of smoke will be brought back in
Ml aocmnulated mass ; and as this repasses the town, augmented by the clouds of smoke
from every fire therein, it causes the murky darkness.
By accurate observation of the height of the Pog, relatively with the higher edifice^
^hote elevation is known, it has been ascertained that the Pegs of London never rise
more than from 200 to 240 feet above the same level. Hence the air of the more
elevated environs of the metropolis is celebrated for its pure and invigorating qualities,
^ng placed above the fogs of the pUun, and removed from smoky and contaminated
^tmospheie. The height of the Norwood hills, for example is 390 feet above the sen-
^el at low water ; and thus enjoys pre-eminent salubrity.
A A
854 CUBI08ITIE8 OF LONDON.
What is often called ¥og, which darkeni themetropolia in winter, it, in leaMtj, the smoke of miUioos
of ooal-flret, which are much increased in Tcry cold weather. To prereut this, a Correspondent of the
Tim$a recommends this simple plan :— Before yon throw on coals, poll all the fire to the front of the
Kte towards the bars, fill up the cavitj at the back with the cinders or ashes, which will be found onder
gnte, and then throw on the coals. The gas evolved in the process of roasting the coals will tfaea
be absorbed bj the cinders— will render thrai, in an increased degree, conibiistible. The smoke will
thns be burnt, and a fine glowing, amokdesB fire wUl be the rasolt. This nle should be enfinoed from
the kitchen upwards.
JPOBTimCA TIONS.
THE defence of the Gty of London by the wall bnilt by oar later Boman cdlonists
has been already deecribed. {See Citt Walls aitd Oatxs, p. 233.) In later
times, the mctropolia had again to be fortified.
Dming the Civil Wan, in 1642, the Parliament ordered that trenches and ramparts
ahonld be made near the highways leading to the City, and in different parts abont
liondon and Westminster. These Fortifications consisted of a strong earthen rampart^
flanked with bastions, redoubts, &c, snrroimding the whole City and its liberties, in-
dading Sontbwark. In Tybmrn-road, in 1643, there were three forts erected — viz., a
redoubt, with two flanks, near St. Giles's Pound; a small fort at the east end of the
road ; and a large fort, with four half bulwarks, across the road opponte to Wardour-
■treet. From The JPeffeet Diurnal of this period, we gather that many thousands of
men, women, and servants assisted in the works ; as did also a great company of the
Common Coundl, and other chief men of the City; and the Trained Bands, with spades,
shovels, and pickaxes; likewise feltmakers, cappers, shoemakers, and porters, to the
number of many thousands, assisted in raising the defences.
Upon the site of Mount-street was the fort of "Oliver's Mount ;" and on the ground
now occupied by Hamilton-place at Hyde-park-comer was a large fort with four
bastions.
" From ladies down to ojster-wenches,
Labour'd like pioneers in trenches."
Butler's Sudiinu, Part ii. canto 2.
The women, and even the ladies of rank and fortan& not only encouraged the men, but worked with
their own hands. Lady Middlesex, Ladj Foster, Ladr Anne Walker, and Mrs. Donch, have been
particularly celebrated for their activity. — Dr. Nash's Ifot§$,
There are in existence drawings of London Fortifications ascribed to Hollar, and
Captain John Eyre of Oliver Cromwell's own regiment, dated 1643 ; but they are not,
by competent judges, regarded as genuine. The latter have been etched.
The Parliamentary Fortifications of London are described in Maitland's History;
a Plan of the City and Suburbs, 1642 and 1643, was engraved by George Yertue,
1738 ; and a small Plan of the same works appeared in the Gentleman** Magazine, a
few years afterwards.
During tbe last Civil War, a Fortification was erected at the Brill Farm, near Old
St. Pancras Church, where, 120 years later, Somers Town was built ; a view of it is
engraved. — Notes and Qneries, No. 230.
FOUNDLING HOSPITAL {THE),
Pr Guilford-streety was established by Royal Charter, granted in 1739 to Thomns
Coram (master of a trading vessel), " for the reception, maintenance, and education
of exposed and deserted young children," in a hospital erected "after the example of
France, Holland, and other Christian countries." This shows that Coram contemplated
the indiscriminate admission of all foundling^ as is the case in the above countries ; and
such was the practice up to the commencement of the present century. The Qovemon
first opened a house in Hatton-garden, on March 25, 1740-1 ; and any person bringing
a child, rang the bell at the inner door, and waited to hear if the inflmt was returned
from disease or at once received, no question whatever being asked as to whom the
child belonged, or whence it was brought ; and when the full number of children had
been taken in, a notice of " The House isjkll" was affixed over the door : often there
were 100 children oflered, when only 20 could be admitted ; riots ensued, and thence-
forth the women balloted for admission by drawing balls out of a bag.
The present Hospital was built by Jacobson ; and the children, 600 in number, were
removed there in 1745, when the expenses of the establishment were more than five
FOUNDLING HOSPITAL (THE). 355
times the amount of the inoome. The Govemon afterwards applied to Pftrliament, who
voted them 10,000/., and sanctioned the general admission of children, the estahlish-
ment of ooantry hospitals, &c* A hasket was hnng at the gate of the hospital in
London, in which the children were deposited, after ringing a bell to give notice to the
officers in attendanoe.-|' On June 2nd, 1756, the first day, 117 children were thus
reoeired. In 1757 printed bills were posted in the streets apprinng the public of their
priTiIege. The oonseqnences were lamentable : prostitution was greatly increased by
this easy means of disposing of illegitimate offiipring ; and from the want of means of
rearing so many children, the greater nnmber died : of 14,984 children received in three
years and ten months, 10,889 perished. At length, in 1760, this indiscriminate ad-
mission was discontinued by Act of Parliament, the legislature undertaking to support
all the children who had been already received at its suggestion. Still, so late as
1795 the practice of admitting children without inquiry, on payment of 100/., had not
become extinct ; but it was abolished in 1801.
Hogarth, one of the earliest " Governors and Guardians," greatly asristed his friend
Captain Coram, whose full-length portrait he painted and presented to the Hospital,
with other pictures. These were shown to the public, and became very attractive;
and out of this success g^rew the first Exhibition of the Royal Academy, in the Adelphi,
m the year 1760. The painters often met at the Hospital ; the exhibition of thdr
pictores drew daily crowds of spectators, in their splendid equipages ; and a visit to
the Foimdling became the most fiishionable morning lounge of the reign of George II.
The grounds in front of the Hospital were a favourite promenade; and brocaded
lilks, gold-headed canes, and laced three-cornered (Egham, Staines^ and Windsor) hats
formed a gay bevy in Lamb's-Conduit-fields.
The pictures represent the state of British art previoasly to the patronage of West
by George III. In the collection is Hogarth's March to Finchley, and Moses brought
to Pharaoh's Daughter; Dr. Mead, by Allan Ramsay; Handel, by Kneller ; Lord
Dartmouth, by Sir Joshua Reynolds; Views of the Foundling and St. George's Hos-
pitals, by Richiud Wilson ; the Charter-House (Sutton's Hospital), by Gainsborough ;
Chelsea and Bethlem Hospitals, by Haytley; Christ's Hospital, St.*Thomas's and
Greenwich Hospitals, by Wale; a bas-relief by Rysbrack; a bust of Handel, by
Bonhiliac; and a presumed original portrait of Sbakspeare.
The Chapel has an altar-piece (Christ presenting a little Child), painted by West.
At the soggestion of Handel, the muacal service has been a source of great profit to
the Hospital fonds. (See Chapels, p. 210.) Dr. Bumey attempted to found an
"Academy of Music" on this baas, just as an Academy of Arts had been nused ; but
the project failed. Several blind children, who had been reodved into the Hospital
during the indiscriminate admission, were truned as a choir. Mr. Grenville, the
organist; Mr. Printer, Miss Thetford, and Jenny Freer, singers, were all blind
foundlings.
Coram is baried in the vaults. Here also rest several benefactors, including Lord
Chief-Jnstice Tenterden, whose bust is at the eastern entrance to the chapel : some
▼erses written by his Lordship are sung at the Festival of the Governors. Upon the
lodges are two characteristic bas-relief medallions, nicely executed.
Vrom 1760^ the Institntlon oeoaed to be a hospital for foandlings—
"Araceanknown,
At doon expoB'd, whom matrons call their own."— DrytfM.
Unfortonately, the name has been retained : hence great misapprehension in the pnblio mind as to the
preient ol^ects and porpoeei of the Charity. The present practice of admitting children requires that
UM7 be illegitimate; that the mother liave borne a good character nrevions to her misfortone ; and
^at she be poor and have no relations able or willing to maintain ner child. There are other con-
dhiont enfbreed by the Oovemon j their benevolent obiect being, " to hide the shame of the mother,
M well M to preserve the life of the child," and dismiss her from the Hospital with the charge to
* Branch eatabliahments were opened in the oonntry : and at one of them (AckworUi, in Yorkshire)
«u made eloth, in salts of whien several of the artist-patrons appeared at the Festival of 1761.
Another branch Hospital was at Ajlesbnry : of this John Wilkes (M.P. for that borough) was appointed
, being desiroos of asoertahi-
was, that he was pnt into
A A2
356 CURIOSITIES OF LONDON.
"■ill no mon." There ere eerenl eloquent defencee of the obJecU of the HoepitaL Sterne
preeched a sermon fbr the Charity in 1761 ; and the Ber. Sydn^ Smith was one of the appointed
preachers.
There are at present 600 children supported by the Charity, flrom extreme infltncy to the ai?e of
fifteen ; the GoTemors hare not the priyilege of fres^ntimg chUdren, after the manner of other esta-
blishments, the daim fbr admission dcpendinff upon the proven misery of the case. The general health
of the children within the walls of the Hoepital is remarkably sood ; indeed, the boildinfif oocnpies one
of the bedthiest sitee in London. At an apprenticeable age, the girls are put oat to domestic scrrioe,
and the boys to trades.
Tlie qualification of a Governor is a donation of 502. The revenne of the Hoepital
18 principally derived from the improved value of the Lamb'a-Condult estate (56 acres),
which the Governors purchased as a nte for the Hospital, in 1741, for the sum of
56002., collected by benefactions and legacies ; when the Charity bought the wbdc
estate, not because they required it, but because the Eari of Salisbury, its owner, would
not sdl any fractional part of it. As London increased, it approached this property ;
and the ground is now mostly covered with squares and streets of bouses, the ground-
rente producing an annual income equal to the purchase-money ! The Governors have
likewise established a Benevolent Fund, for the relief of aged and destitute persons who
were inmates of the Hospital when infants. (See Memoranda of the Foundling Hos-
pUal, by John Brownlow, Secretary, third edition, 1865.) A stone portrait-statue of
Coram, Calder Marshall, sculptor, is placed upon the central pier of the entrance-gates.
FOUNTAINS.
LONDON had, until lately, in comparison with Continental cities, but few decoratit-e
Fountains, of " the nature that sprinkleth or sponteth water.'* Early in the
last century, however, the Fountains were more numerous. Hatton (1708) mentions
in Privy Garden, at Somerset House, Middle Temple, Lincoln's Inn, and Eing's-square,
** the most publick ones." The court-yards and g^ardens of mansions had also their
fountains : Montague House was celebrated for them. The courts of the Companies'
Halls and City-merchants' bouses boasted of their fountains, but few o^ which remain.
The private garden of Drapers' Hall had a basin, with a fountain and statue.
Old Somerset House had its geometrical water-garden and fountfun.
Whitehall had its fountains ; and Queen Elirabeth had a cascade made to play in
her gardens, which, when touched by a distant spring, sprinkled all who approached it.
The King's (Soho) Square fountain had in the middle of the basin a stone statue of
Charles II. in armour, on a pedestal enriched with crowns and foliage; on the four
sides of the base were as many figures, with inscriptions, of the Thames, Severn, Tyne,
and Humber rivers, spouting water. The statue of Charles remains, but the bajiin has
been filled up, and is now a flower-garden.
St. James's-square had in its centre, in 1720, a basin with a jet of water 15 feet
high ; the basin was filled from York-buildings, was 6 or 7 feet deep, and 150 feet in
diameter, and upon it was kept a pleasure-boat : the site is now occupied by an eques-
trian statue of William III.
The fountain was a popular ornament of our old tea-gardens : Bagnigge Wells had
a curious specimen — half fountain, half grotto ; and the fountain lingered among the
cool delights of Vauxhall Gardens to the last.
Kensington Gardens had a lofty sculptured fountain in the badn opposite the palace;
but here, and in the Parks, the ye^-d'^au were, until lately, tasteless andunomapental.
In the middle of New-square, Lincoln's Inn, was a fluted Corinthian column, aud a
clock with three dials near its vertex ; and at each angle of the pedestal was a Cupid
blowing water through a short twisted shell. In the Benchers' Garden, Lincoln's Inn,
in the centre of a basin, was the figure of a mermaid rising out of reeds, with a lofty
jet of water.
The fountain in Fountain-court, Middle Temple, rises from a marble-bordered basin,
and in Hatton's time was kept " in so good order as always to force its stream to a
vast and almost incredible altitude. It is fenced with timber palisades, constituting a
quadrangle, wherein grow several lofty trees, and without are walks extending on every
side of the quadrangle, all paved with Purbeck, very pleasant and delightful." The
timber palisades have given way to iron railing ; the jet was half-inch, and threw the
FOUNTAINS. 857
water 10 feet high, and the effect of its sound and sparkle through the trees was very
refreshing. Miss Landon has left a poem of pensive beauty, commencing thus :—
" The fbnntaln't low singing is heard on the wind.
Like a melody bringing tweet ftncies to mind ;
Some to grierei some to gladden : around them tiiej oast
The hopef of the morrow, the dreams of the past.
Away in the distance is heard the rast sound.
From the streets of the city that compass it roond*
Like the echo of fonntains or ocean's deep call ;
Tet that fountain's low singing is heard over iJl."
A more decorated design has been substituted for the fbrnud Jet.
In the ornamental garden adjoining the Bank (of England) Parlour b a stone basing
with a jet of water 20 feet high ; already described at p. 30.
The pair of fountains and basins in TWalgar square are the largest works of the
lund in the metropolis. They were designed by Sir C. Barry» R.A., and executed in
Peterhead granite by M'Donald and L^e, Aberdeen. Around each base are four
dolphins' heads and fins, supporting a large flat vase and a pedestal, with a smaller
▼ase, in the centre of which is the jet whence the water is thrown up ; while a flat
stream issues from each of the dolphins' mouths. The water is supplied from two
^esian wells^ one in Orange-street, dOO feet deep, and the other in firont of the
National Qalle^, 395 feet, connected at 170 feet depth by a tunnel to contain 70,000
gallons of water; the wdls and tunnel at rest holding about 122,000 gallons. The
veils are worked, the jets of the fountains thrown, and the water otherwise supplied,
l>y a large Cornish pumping steam-engine, and a small inverted direct-action engine :
OQtlay 9000/. ; annual rent 500/. ; engineers, Easton and Amos, Southwark. The con-
tract for " spouting water" is thirteen hours per day in summer, and in winter seven
boors; the height of the jets varies with the weather, from 25 to 40 feet from the
groond; supply, 500 gallons per minute ; to the Treasury, Admiralty, Houses of Par*
^"unent^ and other public offices, 100 gallons per minute.
Such were the original works. In 1862 was added to each of the semicircular bays
of the basins a gproup of jets, consisting of a centre and 16 surrounding it. Thus there
^ ^ jets, throwing 300 gallons per minute, rising from the surfiice of the basins.
Within each is an octagon, from each angle of which a jet throws the water 20 feet
^igh into the upper basin of the central fountain. These 8 jets throw 200 g^ons per
^ute, and their curve is about 30 feet in length. Here are again two inferior
Bqoares surrounding the central group, and from each of the angles a jet is thrown out-
^f^^, crosring those from the octagon, rising 20 feet, and curving about 17 feet : these
throw together 200 gallons per minute. There are also 8 feather jets, which throw up
^ gallons per minate, and form a display resembling the Prince of Wales's Feathers.
The whole may be played at once, in not less than 25 cUfferent continuations or
bilges. It has been the fashion to abuse the desigpis of these fountains, without
Slaking due allowance for the cause— the insufficiency of the sum voted for their
ci^ioD, and desirable decorative character.
Hitherto, fountains had, in our time^ been mostly ornamental, but they have of late
°^^ adapted for Drinking purposes, to promote temperance and sanitary benefits.
'^ first Drinking-fonntain set up in the metropolis was that at St. Sepulchre's, the
Parish in which, nearly three centuries ago^ Lamb^ dtizen and clothworker, and some-
time gentleman of the chamber to Henry YIII., " founded a faire conduit and a
Ktandard, with a oocke, at Holbom-bridge, to convey thence the waste." The con-
duit itself was in the fields — now Lamb's-Conduit-street. (See Conduits, p. 288.)
The Metropolitan Free Drinking-Fonntains Association has setup in various quarters,
"y means of a public subscription, fountains in localities where they are most required.
As many as 8000 persons have been known to drink at a single fountain in one day ; and
^re than 30,000 have been estimated to drink daily in the summer at 140 fountains.
^^y of the contributions to this good work of the Association exhibit great liberality on
"® part of the donors, as well as an occasional tinge of eccentricity. Cattle-troughs
thd dog-tronghs have been added to the fountains. Benevolent individuals have con^
^nbuted to their own localities. Thus, we read of 60^ from a lady in Brompton, and
^W/. from a gentleman in Rmlioo, for the two fountains just opened by the Society
358 CUBI08ITIE8 OF LONDON.
oatnde the Eennngton Mmeum, and in the high road leading to Battenea Park. A
gentleman in Fifeshire offered to pay the cost of a fonntiun near the Eennngtoa
Potteries, where, by the way, water was always wanted ; and a lady at St. Jdhn'a-
wood sent to the Society a donation for the new cattle-troogh jnst fixed in Finabnry-
•qnare. One of the Reports of the Society states that a lady, who requested that
her name should be kept secret, sent 10002. to the treasurer; and that an Indian Prince
furnished a umilar sum to he expended upon a fountain in Hyde Park. Mrs. Boeetta
Waddell, amongst other bequests, left 500/. for the erection dT a fountain in Warwidk-
square, Newgate-street. Mr. Gumcy, the founder of the Aswxaation, contributed
between dOOL and 400/. yearly towards the objects which it had in view. The Associa-
tion requires 1000/. a-year to keep one hundred fountains in repair.
Some of these drii^ung-fountains, erected at the cost of private indiyiduals^ are
admirable worlcs of art, as well as acts of public spirit. Sir Morton Peto has erected
on Islington-green a statue of Sir Hugh Myddelton, with two fountains, and the New
River Company supply the water g^tis ; and the Company, in 1859, set up a fountain
against their own wall. In the above year, the Assodation announced aevenfy sites^
whereon they had erected fountains, or were under engagement to erect.
The Qovemment have erected, very appropriately, drinking-fountains in the Parks.
The largest and most important is placed in the geometrical garden in Hyde Park,
learly opposite Cbosvenor-gate. This is a nmple and massive fountain, with a group
of a boy and dolphin, in Carrara marble, 6 feet high, sculptured by Alexander Munro.
It is placed on a block of red granite cJuselled to represent a rock. The beany of
polished Sicilian marble, is nine feet in diameter, and is believed to be the largest bann
of a single block of marble in England. This rests on a square plinth of Dove marble^
leading up to which are three circular steps in grey granite, the lowest step being
eighteen feet in diameter. The whole work is upwards of twelve feet in height. The
group represents a sturdy boy wrestling with a dolphin ; the water issuing in jets
from the nostrils of the dolphin.
On the south side of St. James's Fftrk, near Storey's-gate, backed by trees, is
a group, sculptured by R. Jackson, of a boy seated, with a pitcher at his side^
and holding a scallop-diell as if to dip into the pitcher, and offer its contents to one
towards whom his head is slightly turned. On the frt>nt of the gpranite pedestal
is a relief of bulrushes and other water-plants» and from the mouth of a dolphin the
water trickles into a conch-shell.
In the Regent's Park, a drinking-fountain has been erected fit>m the designs of
R. Westmacott, R.A. : it consists of a polished red gpranite column, on which is a female
figure in bronze ; the water flows from the bills of two bronze swans, at the base of the
column, into a lai^ tazza of black enamelled slate.
The Ornamental Waterworks, in Kensington Gardens, contain two large fountains*
with some good sculpture, by John Thomas.
In Victoria Park, at the Hackney entrance, is a drinking-fountain, of unusual
dimensions and costliness, a present frt)m Miss Burdett Coutts. It is a Gothic oc-
tagonal structure, crowned by a cupola, nearly 60 feet high ; the shafts and bases are
of polished granite. Within are marble figures in niches, which pour water from
vases into basins beneath ; vases for flowers, and coloured marbles, complete the decora-
tion : cost, above 5000/. ; designer, H. A. Darbishire.
Another large and important design is the Buxton Memorial Drinking Fountain,
at the comer of Great George-street and St. Margaret's Churchyard, Westminster.
The base is octagonal, having open arches on the eight sides, supported on clustered
shafts of polished Devonshire marble around a larg^ central shaft, with four massive
granite basins. Surmountii^ the pinnacles at the angles of the octagon are eight
figures of bronze, representing different rulers of England : the Britons represented
by Caractacus, the Romans by Constantino, the Danes by Canute, the Saxons by
Alfred, the Normans by William the Conqueror, and so on, ending with Queen
Victoria. The following is the inscription : —
" ThiB fountain Ib intended as a memorial of those Members of Parliament who, with Mr. Wi]bc^
flirce, advocated the Abolition of the Britiah Slave Trade, achieved in 1807 : and of those Members of
Parliament who, with Sir T. FoweU Boxton, advocated the Emancipation of the Slaves thronghout the
FREEMASONS* LODGES. 859
British dominions, achieved in 1884. It was desig^ied and bailt» by Charles Boxton, H.P., In 186S, fhe
year of the final extinction of the Slave Trade and of the Abolition of Slavexy in the United Sutes."
The upper portion is covered with plaques of iron, with raised patterns, giving
shadow, and enamelled coloored surfaces. Superintendent architect, S. Teulon ; stone-
work and scolptnre, hy Earp ; cost, upwards of 12O0L, exclusive of the water supply,
undertaken by the Drinking-Fountains Association.
Another memorial monumental fountain has heen erected in Guildhall-yard, by the
Teatry of the united parishes of St. Lawrence Jewry, and St. Mary Magdalene, Milk-
street, to the memory of the benefiustors of these parishes. This memorial, designed in
the Pointed style of architecture which prevailed in Italy during the fourteenth cen-
tury, is 9 ft. square at the base, and 82 ft. in height. The materials are Portland
stone, and Bath stone, with polished gpranite shafts. On the east and west sides are
itatues of the patron siunts of the two parishes ; and on the other two sides are marbla
slabs, on which are engraved the names of the bene&ctors. On the east side, facing
Guildhall-yard, is a bronze bas-relief of Moses striking the Bock, an admirable pro-
ductbn, which forms the drinking-fountain ; cost has been 6652. ; designed by John
Bobinson, architect; statues and bas-relief are by Joseph Durham, R.A., sculptor.
Fountains are useful ornaments of markets. At Billingsgate is a cast-iron fountain,
with a basin about 15 feet in diameter, and a stem of rn^es whence the water rises :
and around the basin-lip lie twelve dolphins, which discharge water for the use of the
market-people.
FREEMASONS' LODGES.
OTTB glance at Freemasonry in the metropolis dates firom two centuries back (1666),
when Sir Christopher Wren was nominated Deputy-Grand-Master under Earl
Rivera, and disting^hed himself above all his predecessors in legislating for the body
at large, and in promoting the interests of the Lodges under his immediate care. He
was Master of the St. Fftul's Lodge, which, during the rebuilding of the Cathedral
after the Great Fire, assembled at the Goose and Gridiron, in St. Paul's Churchyard,
and is now the Lodge of Antiquity, acting by immemorial prescription, and regularly
presided at its meetings for upwards of eighteen years. During his presidency, he pre-
Knted the Lodge with three mahogany candlesticks, beautifully carved, and the trowel
and mallet whidi he used in laying the first stone of the Cathedral, June 21, 1675.
During the building of the City, Lodges were held by the fraternity in different
places, and several new ones constituted, which were attended by the lea^g architects
and best builders of the day, and amateur brethren of the mystic craft. In 1674 Earl
Rivers resigned his grand-mastership, and George ViUiers, Duke of Buokingham, was
^ected to the ^gnified office. He left the care of the Grand Lodge and the brother-
^>ood to the Deputy-Grand-Master Wren and his Wardens. During the short reign
of James II., who tolerated no secret societies but the Jesuits, the Lodges were but
thinly attended ; but in 1685 Sir Christopher Wren was elected Grand-Master of the
^^er, and nominated Gabriel Cibber, the sculptor, and Edward Strong, the master
>nason of St. Paul's and other of the City churches, as Grand-Wardens.
Many of the oldest Lodges are in the neighbourhood of St. Paul's ; but the head-
9™irten! of Freemasonry is the Grand Hall in the rear of Freemasons' Tavern, 62,
Qaeen-street^ Lincoln's-inn-fields : it was commenced May 1, 1775, from the designs
of Thomas Sandby, B.A., Professor of Architecture in the Boyal Academy : 5000/. was
'i^ued by a Tontine towards the cost ; and the Hall was opened and dedicated in solemn
f<'nn. May 23, 1776; Lord Petre, Grand-Master. ** It is the first house built in this
country with the appropriate symbols of Masonry, and with the suitable apartments
^ the holding of Lodges, the initiating, passing, raising, and exalting of brethren."
i^lmeg.) Here are held the Grand and other Lodges, which hitherto assembled in the
Hall* of the City Companies.
^ Freemasons' Hall, as originally decorated, is shown in a print of the annual proces-
■ion of Freemasons' Orphans, by T. Stothard, R.A. It is a finely-proportioned room,
p2 feet by 43 feet, and 60 feet high ; and will hold 1500 persons : it was re-decorated
^ 1846 : the ceiling and coving are richly decorated ; above the principal entrance is
860 CURIOSITIES OF LONDON.
a large gallery, with an organ ; and at the opposite end is a cored recess, flanked by a
pair of Anted Ionic oolnmnB, and Egyptian doorways ; tbe ndes are decorated with
fluted Ionic pilasters; and throughout the room in tbe firieze are masonic emblems,
gilt upon a transparent blue ground. In the interoolumniations are full-length royal
and other Masonic portraits, including that of the Duke of Sussex, as Grand-Master, by
Sir W. Beechey, R. A. In the end recess is a marble statue of the Duke of Sussex, exe-
cuted for the Grand Lodge, by £. H. Baily, R.A. The statue is seven feet six inches
high, and the pedestal ax feet ; the Duke wears the robes of a Knight of the Garter, and
the Guelphic insignia ; at his side is a small altar, sculptured with Masonic emblems.
Freemasons' Hall was, however, not reserved for the exclusive use of the Masons. In
1863, the erection of a great Masonic building was decided on; architect, F. P.
Cockerell, son of the late Professor Cockerell, K.A.
The front, which is 89 ft. in length, is built entirely of Portland stone. Tbe scolp-
ture, including tbe four figures representing Wisdom, Fidelity, Charity, and Unity,
are executed by W. G. KichoU. The section, comprising the greater part of the Maaonic
building, was completed in May, 1866. The old hall is re-embellished in a corresponding
style.
St. Panl't. 604^ and St. Petsr't, Westminster, 605, were bnflt br Freemasons. Chmdnlpta, Btohop of
Bochester. who built Rochester Castle, and, it is Baid,the White Tower (of London), governed the Free-
maaoDs. PeterofColechurch.architectofold London Bridge, was Gnmd>Master. HenryVIUinalodseof
Master Hasons, fouided his Chapel at Weatminster Abbey. Hampton Court Palace was built by Free-
masons, ss appears from the aocoonts of the expenses of the fkbno extant among the public records of
London. Sir Thomas Gresham, who planned the Boyal Exchange, was Grand-Master: as wss also
Iniao Jones, who built the Banqxieting-House, Whitehall : Ashburnham House, Westminster, &c. Sir
Christopher Wren, Grand-Master, founded St. Paul's witn his Lodge of Masons, and the trowel and
the mallet used are preserred. Covent Garden Theatre was founded, 1806, by the Prince of Wsles^
Grand-Master ; and tne Grand Lodge. Sir Francis PalgniTe, however, maintains that ** the connexion
between the operatiye masons and a conviTial society of good fellows— who, in the reign of Queen Ann^
met at the ' Goose aud Gridiron, in St. Paul his Church-ysrd '—appears to have been finally dissolved
about the beginning of the eighteenth century. From an inventory of the contents of the chest of the
Worshipftd Company of Masons snd Citizens of London, it appears not long since to have contained a
book wrote on parchment, or bound or stitched in parchment, containing 113 annals of the antiquity,
rise, and progress of the art snd mysto^ ot masonry. But this document is not now to be found. — Sir
F. Falgrave, Edinburgh B«vi»w, April, 1839.
There is in existence, and known to persons who take sn interest in the History of Free-
mssonry, a copperplate List of Freemasons* Lodges in London in the reign of Queen Anne, with a
representation of the Signs, and some Masonic Ceremony, In which are eleven figures of well-dressed
men, in the costume of the above period. There were then 129 Lodges, of which 86 were in London,
86 in English cities, and 7 abroad.
According to the books of the Grsnd Lodge of England, there sre S3 Msaonic Lodges in the City,
distributed as follows: Albion Tavern^ldersnte-street, 7; London Tavern, Bishopsgate, 9 ; Badley's
Hotel, Bridge-street, 9; Anderton's Hotel, Fleet-street, 8: Ship snd Turtle, Leadenhsll-street, 8;
London Coflce House, Ludgate-hill, 6; Masons' Hall, Bastnghall-street,3; Masoos* Booms, Little
Bell-aller, Moorgate-street, 1 ; Cheshire Cheese, Cmtched-friars, 1 ; Falcon Tavern, Fetter-lane, 1 ; and
Dick's Tavern, Fleet-stree^ 1. Formerly the most ancient lodge in the Ci^, and which dates flrom
time immemorial, was the '* Lodge of Antiquity" (No. 2). but having removed from the Goose and
Gridiron, St. Paul's Churchyard, to the Freemasons* Hall, Great Queen-street, the Boval Athebtan
(No. 19), became the most sncient City Lodge, while the most modem are the City of London (901,)
and Engineers (902). In the City there are also fourteen Lodges of Instruction. There are S33
Chapters of Boval Arch Masons, 12 of which are in the City.
" Three explanations, widely diflerent, have been ^ven of the origin and progress of Freemssonry.
come see in Freemasonry a secret system deriving its teaching from Egyptian mysteries, preserved
through the night of history. Others see in it a secret body, exclusive in its formation^ snd passing
through the world irrespective of thepolitics and religion of all countries, but sdvocatinff brotherly
love and inculcating moral duties. There sre others who, having regard to the principle of cause and
eflbct, see in it a speculative brotherhood, the Icflritimate and lineal dncendants of the operative guilds
• which flourished in the Middle and early ages, whichever explanation or theory may be true, one thing
is indubitable— namely, that the origin and duration of Freemasonry together fhmbh a most wonder-
tal fact in the history of mankind. It is universal in its scope and expansive and tolerant in its
tendency ; it r^ects all partisan theories and condemns all sectarian animosities ; it forms a nucleus to
all tbe nations of the world, and aims at linking all mankind in enduring friendship by inculcating
moral responsibility snd social duty, loyalty, peace, and good citizenship, and the relief w human sor-
row snd afiUction."— Bev. A. F. Woodford, CHimd Chaplain,
FROSTS, AND FM08T-FAIE8 ON TEF THAMES.
1281-2. " From this Christmas till the Purification of Our Lady, there was such a ttoeX and snow, as
BO man living could remember the like : wherethrough, five arches of London Bridge, and all Bochester
Bridge, were Dome downe and carried away by the streame; and the like happened to many bridges in
Eneland. And, not longafter, men passed over the Thames, between Westminster and Lambeth, dxy-
sluM."— <9fov, edited by Howes, 1631.
1410. ** Thys yere was the grete frost and ise and the most sharpest winter that
FB08T8, Am) FBOST-FAIBS ON THE THAMES. 861
ever man eawe, and it duryd fourteen wekes, so that men myght in dyvere places both
goo and ryde over the Temse." — Chronicle of the Orey Fri<zrs of London.
1434r-5. The Thames frozen from below London Bridge to Qravesend, from Dec 25
to Feb. 10, when ** the merchandise which came to the Thames mouth was carried to
London bj land."— iS^ow.
1506. " Such a sore snowe and a frost that men myght goo with carttes over the
Temse and horses, and it lastyd tylle Candlemas." — Chronicle of the Qrey Friars qf
Zondon,
1515. The Thames frozen, when carriages passed over the ice frt>m Lambeth to
Westminster.
1564^ Dec. 21. Stow and Holinshed state that on New-year's eve —
" People went over and alongst the Themes on the 1m from London Bridge to Westmhieter. Some
plaied at the toot ball ee boldlie there, ee if it had beene on the drie land ; dWerae of the Court being
then at WeatminBter, abot daille at piickea aet npon the Thamea ; and the people, both men and women,
went an the Thamea in greater nombera than in anie atreet of the City of London. On the third daie
of Janoarr at night it be«m to thaw, and on the fifth there waa no iae to be aeene between London
Bridge and Lambeth, which audden Uiaw caoaed great flooda and high watera, that bare downe bridges
and hcniaea and drowned manie people in England."
1606. Great frtwt described in Howes's continuation of Stow :
"The 8th of December began a hard fhwt, and oonthiued until the 16th of the aame, and then
thawed ; and the 22d of December it began againe to fireeze yiolently, ao aa divers persona went halft-
way over the Thamea upon the ice ; and the SOth of December, at everr ebbe, many people went quite
orer the Thamea in divera places, and ao continoed fh)m that day until the 3d of January/' From Jan.
l<*th to Uth, the ice became firm, and men, women, and children went boldly upon it; some ahot at
rrickea, otbera bowled and danced, and many " aet up booths and atanding upon the ice aa fhdtsellers^
victnaUera, that aold beere and wine, shoemaikers, and a barber's tent:" the ice lasting until Feb. 8.
There ia a very rare Tract, deacril^g thia froat, mentioned by Gongh, in hia JBrUitk Topography^ vol L
p. 731, which has a woodcut representation of it, with London Bridge in the dbtance; it la entitled—
** Cold Doings in London, except it be at the Lotteiy," Ac, 4to, 1006.
1609. Great frost commenced in October, and lasted four montha. The Thames
frozen, and heavy carriages driven over it.
16S3-4. From the beginning of December until the 5th of February, frost "con-
gealed the river Thames to that degree, that another city, as it were, was erected
thereon ; where, by the great number of streets and shops, with their rich frimitnre,
it represented a great fair, with a variety of carriages, and diversions of all sorts ; and
near Whitehall, a whole ox was roasted on the ice." {Maitland.) Evelyn, who was
tn eye-witness of the scene, thus describes it^ Jan. 24^ 1684 :—
"The fktMt continuing more and more severe, the Thamea before London waa atQl planted with
boothes in formal atreetea, all aorta of trades and ahops lumished, and all ftall of oommoditiea, even to a
printing preaae^ where the people and ladiea tooke a fancy to have their names printed on the Thames ;
tills humour tooke ao universally, that 'twaa estimated the printer gained 62. a day for printing a line
cDtfiy, at rixpenoe a name, beddea what he got by ballads, oc. Coaches plied from Westminster to the
Temple, and from aeveral other stairea, to and fro, aa in the atreetea; aheds, eliding with skeetes, and
bQlI-baiting, hone and coach races, puppet-playa and interludea. cookea, tipUbg, and other lewd placea;
K) that it aeemed to be a bacchanalian triumph, or carnival on the water."
King Charlea 11. visited these diversions, and even had his name printed on the ioe^
with those of several other personages of the royal family. Mr. Upcott possessed a speci-
men— a quarter of a sheet of coarse Dutch paper; within a type border, were the
names of—
CnABLXS, Kziro.
James, Dukk.
KA11IEUI5I', Quxair.
Mart, DuTCHxas.
Aiiirs, Paivcxaa.
GsoBGX, Pbikcb.
UaJTB IV KXLDBB.
London : Printed by G. Croom, on the Toa, on
the River of Thames, January 31, HiSi.
Feb. 6, the day after the break-up of this great fr^t, Charies II. died.
In some curious verses, entitled " Thamasis's Advice to the Painter, from her frigid
lODc," &£^ " printed by G. Croom, on the river of Thames,'* occurs :
362 CURIOSITIES OF LONDON.
" To the PriHt-house go.
Where Jfra ih»Art<jfFriiiUing soon do knowt
Where, for a Teaster, you may have yoor yam«
Printed, hereafter for to show the same :
And rare, iaforwur Agn, ne'er was fonnd
A Prtu to prints where men so oft were dronnd I"
The prindpiil scene of this " Blanket-Fair" was opposite the Temple-stain, as we Bee
in a pencil and Indian-ink eketcb, supposed by Thomas Wyote, dated "Monday,
Febmary the 4tb, 1683-4:" in front are Tarioos groaps of figores, and a line of tents;
** Temple-street" stretches across the Thames. This drawing, with some prints, &c.,
illnstrative of this frost, is in the Crowle Pennant,
1688-9. Great frost, Dec 20 to Feb. 6 1 pools frozen eighteen inches thick, and the
Thames' ice covered with streets of shops, bnll-baiting, shows, and tricks ; hackney-
coaches plied in the ice-roads, and a coach and six horses was driven from Whitehall
abnoat to London-bridge; yet in two days all the ice disappeared.
1709. The Thames again frozen over, and some persons crossed it on the ioe : in the
Cfrowle Pennant is a coarse bill, within a woodcnt border of rural subjects, oontaining,
* Mr. John Heaton, printed on the Thames at Westminster, Jan. the 7th, 1709."
1715. Severe frost, from the end of November tmUl Feb. 9 following, when the
sports of 1688 were all renewed : in the Crowle Pennamt is a copperplate view, with a
line of tents from Temple-stairs, and another marked "Thames-street;" "Printed on
the Thames, 1715-16 ;" and above it, *' Frost Fair on the River Thames."
1739-40. Dec. 25, another severe frxMt : the Thames floated with rocks and shoals
of ioe ; and when they fixed, represented a snowy field, everywhere rising in masses
and hills of ice and snow. Several artists made sketches ; tents and printing-presses
were set up, and a complete Frost Fair was again held upon the river, over which
multitudes walked, though some fell victims to theu: rashness. It was in this fiurthat
DoU, the noted pippin-woman, lost her life :
"DoU every daj had walk'd these treacheroos roads;
Her neck grew warp'd beneath aatamnal loads
Of varlooa froit : she now a basket bore ;
That head, alas I shall basket bear no more.
Each bootn she frequent past, in quest of gain.
And boTi with pleasure heard her thrilling strain.
Ah, Doll I all mortals must resign their breath,
And industry itself submit to death I
The cracking crystal yields ; she sinks, she dies, —
Her head, coopt ofT from her lost shoulders, flies ;
Pippins, she cried, but dealhher voice confounds,
Aua pip, pip, pip, along the ice resounds."— Gay's TrMa, b. il.
Another remarkable character, '* Tiddy Doll," died in the same place and manner.
(J*. T. Smith.) In the Crowle Pennant are several prints of this Frost and Ioe Fair.
Some vintners in the Strand bought a large ox in Smithfield, to be roasted whole on
the ice; and one Hodgeson, a butcher in St. James's Market, claimed the privilege of
felling or knocking down the beast as a right inherent in his family, his &ther having
knocked down the ox roasted on the river in the Great Frost, 1684; as himself did
that roasted in 1715, near Hungerfbrd Stairs : Hodgeson to wear a laced cambric
apron, a silver-handled steel, and a hat and feathers. The breaking-up of this frost
was an odd scene ; the booths, shops^ and huts being carried away by the swell of the
waters and the ice separating.
1768. A violent frost, Jan. 1-21, when the piles of London Bridge sterlings were
much damaged by the ice ; on Jan. 5, a French vessel was wrecked upon a sterling,
and two others were driven through the centre arch, losing their main-masts, and
carrying away the lamps from the parapet.
1789, Jan. 8. The Thames frozen over, several purl-booths erected, and many
thousands of persons crossed upon the ice from Tower-wharf to the opposite shore. The
froet had then lasted six weeks. No sooner had the Thames acquired a sufficient con-
sistency, than booths, turnabouts, &c, were erected ; the puppet-shows, wild-beasts, &c.,
were transported from every adjacent villajre ; and the watermen broke in the ice close
to the shore, and erected bridges, with toll-bars, to make evexy passenger pay a half-
penny for getting to the ice. A large pig was roasted on one of the roads, and a young
FULWOOJyS BENTS, 863
bear hunted on the ice near Botherhithe ; and the printing-press was erected, as usual,
to commemorate the strange scene. Vast quantities of boiling water were every morn-
ing poured upon the bridge water-works, to set the wheels in motion, and twenty-five
h<»ses were used daily to remove the ice from around them ; while at Blackfriars the
musses of ice were 18 feet thick. The sudden breaking-up of the ice, with the rush of
the people to the shores, at night, was a fearfiil scene. A vessel lying off Eotherhithe,
iastened by a cable and anchor to a beam of a public-house, in the night veered about
and pulled the house to the ground, killing five sleeping inmates.
1811, January. The Thames firozen over.
1813—14. Great frost, commenced Dec 27, with a thick fog, followed by two days'
heavy fall of snow. During nearly four weeks' frost, the wind blew almost uninter-
ruptedly from the north and north-east, and the cold was intense. The river was
covered with vast heaps of floating ice, bearing piles of snow, which, Jan. 26-29, were
floated down, Ailing the space between London and Blackfriars Bridges; next day,
the firost Tecommenoed, and lasted to Feb. 6, uniting the whole into a sheet of ice.
Jan. 30, persons walked over it ; and Feb. 1, the unemployed Mratermen commenced
their ice-toll, by which many of them received 6/. per day. The Frost Fair now com-
menced : the street of tents, called the City-road, put forth its gay flags, inviting
signs, and mnnc and dancing : a sheep was roasted whole before sixpenny spectators^
and the " L«apland mutton ** sold at a shilling a slice I Printing-presses were set up,
and among other records was printed the following :
jFrojst jFair.
Amidst the Arts which on the Thaxss appear
To tell the wonders of this iey rear
PxxKTiva d^ms prior place, wnich At one view
Erects a monament of Thax and Yon.
Printed <m the Biver Thames, February 4, in the 64th year of the reign of King
George III. Anno Domini 1814.
One of the invitations ran thus :
" Ton that walk here, and do design to tell
;tWs
jny uus prmt, and then
That such a year as this hath seldom been.*'
Your children's children what tms vear befell.
Gome bny this print, and then it will be seen
In the Fair were swings, book-stalls, dancing in a barge, suttling-booths^ pl&ying at
skittles, firyiDg sausages, &c The ice and snow, in upheaved masses^ as a foreground
to St, Paul'a and the City, had a striking effect; and the scene, by moonlight^ was
fiuigulaTly picturesque. Chi Feb. 5, the ice cracked, and floated away with booths,
printing-presses, &c. ; the last document printed being a jet^-de-mot " to Madame
Tabitha Thaw." Among the memorials is a duodecimo volume, pp. 124, now before
U: it is entitled, " Frotiiana; or, a SiHoty of the Biver Thames ui a frozen Hate,
^th an Aocount of the UUe Severe Frost, &c,i to which is added the Art of Skating,
liondon : Printed and published on the Ice on the Biver Thames, Fehmary 5, 1814^
^ Q. Davis I** the title-page was worked upon a large ioe-ishmd between Blackfriars
^d Westminster Bridges. In the lUustrated London News, No. 188, is an engraving
of the Frost Fair of 1814^ from a sketch near London Bridge, by Luke Clennell.
JFULWOOJyS JtENTS,
yULOO, " Fuller's Bents," in Holbom, nearly opposite Chancery-lane, is a court, now
meanly inhabited ; but was of much better repute in the time of James I., when its
possessor, Christopher Fnlwood, Esq., resided here. Strype describes it as running up
to Oray's Inn, "into which it has an entrance through the gate" (now closed); "a
place of good resort, and taken up by coffee-houses, ale-houses, and houses of enter-
^^ment, by reason of its vicinity to Gray's Inn. On the east side is a handsome
^pen place, with a freestone pavement, and better bnilt» and inhabited by private
^^^usekeepers. At the upper end of this court is a passage into the Castle Tavern, a
'^Qie of considerable trade, as is the Golden Griffin Tavern, on the west side." Here
364 CURIOSITIES OF LONDON,
was John*>y one of the earliest oofifee-hoiues ; and a^oining Gray's Inn gate* on the
west side, is a deep-coloured brick house, once Squire's Coffee-hoose, whence some of
the SpedtUoTM are dated : it has been handsome and roomy, with a wide staircase.
Within one door of Gray's Inn was Ned Ward's {London Spy) punch-hoose, moch
frequented bj the wits of his day.
For some time before 1609, until his death in 1731, Ward kept this house^ which he
thus puflb in bis London Spy ; being a yintner, we may rest assured that he would
have penned this in praise ot no other but himself:—-
" To fpesk bat the tmth of my honett firiend Ned,
The Deit of all Tlntnera that erer God made :
He's fVee of the beef, and as free of hia bread.
And waahea both down with hia giaaa of rare red.
That topa all the town, and commands a ffood trade ;
Such wine aa will cheer ap the drooping Kind's head.
And briak ap the sonl, thoagh oar body's half>dead;
He aooma to draw bad, aa he hopes to be naid ;
And now hia name's ap, he may e'en lie abed;
For he'll get an estate— -there's no more to be aaid.**
The Castle Tavern, mentioned by Strype, was many years kept by Thomas Winter
C'Tom Spring"), the pugUist, who died here, August 20, 1851.
About the centre of the east nde of Fulwood's Rents is a curious gabled and
projecting house, temp James I. Mr. Archer has engraved a ground-floor room»
entirely panelled with oak; the mantelpiece is well carved in oak, with caryatides
and arched niches ; the cttUng beams are carved in panels ; and the entire room is
original, except the window. A larger room on the first floor contains another old
mantelpiece, very florid. The front of the house is said to be covered with omament»
now concealed by plaster. (Vestiges of Old London, part v.)
GAMDENS.
FITZSTEPHEN records that in the time of Henry II. (1154-1189) the citizens of
London had large and beautiful gardens to their villas. The royal garden at
Westminster was noted for its profusion of roses and lilies in 1276 ; and there is extant
an order of Edward I. for pear-trees for his garden, and that at the Tower.
"Within the compass of one age, Someraet Hoose and the baOdings were called coontxy-hooaea;
and the open places aboat them were emnloyed in gardens for profit : and also many parte within the
City and libeixlea were occapied by working gardeners, and were saflBcient to fiimidi the town with
garaen-ware ; for then bat a few h^ba were oaed at the table in comparison to what are spent now."
'Stow.
About two and a half centuries since, the citizens took their noon-tide and evening
walks in their gardens. Comhill was then an open sjmce, and the ground frvm thence
to Bisbopsgate-street was occupied as gardens, as were also the Minories. Goodman's
Fields were an extensive indosure ; and most of East Sniithfield was an open spacer
partly used for bleaching. Spitalfields were entirely open. From Houndsditch, a
street, but interspersed with gardens, extended nearly to Sboreditch Church, then
nearly the last building in that direction. Moorfields were used for drying linen;
cattle grazed and archers shot in Finsbury Fields, at the veige of which were three
windmills. Go8well«street was a lonely road ; and Islington Church stood in the dis-
tance, with a few houses and gardens near it. In Smitlifield, horses were exercised,
and on the western side was a row of trees. Clerkenwell was mostly occupied by the
precincts of St. John's Priory, beyond which, on the Islington-road, were a fbw de-
tached houses, with gardens. From Cow Cross to Qra/s Inn-lane^ the ground was
either waste or in gardens ; and between Shoe-lane and Fetter-lane was much open
ground. At Drury-lane commenced the village of St. CKles : near the church were a
few houses surrounded with trees. Beyond the church all was open country, the main
roads being distinguished by avenues of trees. Leicester Fields and Soho were open
ground. Spring Garden was literally a garden, reaching to the site of the present
Admiralty. The dwellings in the lower part of Westminster were inns and poor cot-
tages, with small gardens. Whitehall-palace had its stately gardens, as had also the
several noble mansions on the south side of the Strand. Isaac Walton quotes from a
contemporary German poet :—
OABDENS. 365
" 80 nmny gardeus, dressed with caiioas care,
That Thames with Bojal Tiber may compare."
These gardens had thdr water-g^tes ; one of which, Tork-hoose-gate, remiuns, with
a terrace ahaded hy lime-trees.
Leicester House, at the north-east comer of Leicester-square, bad its spadons
gardens^ now the site of Lisle-street, built in 1791.
Uolbom (Old-bourne) was famed for its gardens : Ely-place had its kitchen and
flower gardens, vineyard and orchard, and the bishops were celebrated for raising choice
froit. (See Ely ^.aos, p. 321.) Gerarde was an apothecary, and, before the year
1597, bad a large phync-garden near his house in Uolbom, where he riused 1000
plants and trees ; a proof " that our ground could produce other fruits besides hips ^d
haws, acorns, and pignuts." Gerarde had another physic-garden, in Old-street : his
earliest publication was the Catalogue (in Latin) of his own garden in Holbora, printed
in 1596, 4to; reprinted in 4!to, 1599. The first edition was dedicated to Lord
Burghley, whose garden Gerarde had superintended for twenty years: the second
edition was dedicated to Sir Walter Baleigh. A copy of the first edition (of extreme
rarity) is in the British Museum; and it proved of great use to Mr. Alton in preparing
his Hortus Kewensis, by enabling him to ascertain the time when many old plants
were first cultivated. Gerarde dated the first edition of his Herbal from Holbom.
Wood calls him " the best herbalist of his time." Among the Lansdowne MSS. in the
British Museum, is a letter of Gerarde's own drawing>up, for Lord Burghley to re-
oonunend to the University of Cambridge the establishment of a physic-garden there,
to encourage the " facnltie of simpling." Several London localities of Gerarde's Hm-
pUng may be gathered from his Herbal, Thus, he says : ** Of water violets I have
not found any such plenty in ax\y one place as in the water ditches adjoining to Saint
George his fielde, near London." He describes MUe End, Whitechapel, as "the
common near London where penny-royal grows in great abundance." " The small
wild bugloBse grows upon the drie ditch bank about Pickadilla ;" and he found " white
saxifrage, borr-reedes, &C.," in the ditch, right against the place of execution, St.
Thomas-a- Waterings, now the Old Kent-road.
Baldwin's Gardens, between Leather-lane and €hray's-inn>lane, were, according to a
stone upon a comer-house bearing the arms of Queen Elizabeth, named after Richard
Baldwin, one of the royal gardeners, who began building here in 1589.
Montagpie House, Bloomsbury, had its spacious gardens, ** after the French manner ;"
and the gardens of the houses in Great Bussell-street were noted fbr their fragrance.
Stiype (1720) describes the north side as having gardens behind the houses, with the
prospect of pleasant fields up to Hampstead and Higbgate, " inasmuch as this place is
esteemed the most healthful in London."
The garden of the Earl of Lincoln was highly kept, long before the mansion became
&n Inn of Court The Earl's bailiff's accounts (24 Edward I.) show it to have pro-
duced apples, pears, large nuts, and cherries suffident for the Earl's table, and to yield
V »^ in one year 1352., modern currency. The vegetables grown were beans, onions,
garlick, leeks ; hemp was grown ; the cuttings of the vines much prized ; of pear-trees
there were several varieties; the only fiowers named are roses. {T. Hudson Turner.)
Ihe " walk under the elms," celebrated by Ben Jonson, was a fkvourite resort of
Isaac Bickerstaff. In 1 and 2 Philip and Mary, the walk under the trees in the
coney-garth* or cottrel-garden was made ; and in 15 Car. II. 1668, the said garden
was enlarged, and a terrace- walk made on the left side ; of which Pepys says : " to
Lincoln's-Inn, to see the new garden which they are making, which will be very
pretty." The garden-wall in Chancery-lane is said to have been partly the labour of
Ben JonaoD.
** Gray's Inn for walks, Lincoln's Inn for wall,
Ihe Inner Temple for a garden, and the Middle for a walL"
ZineoWt Inn. By W. H. SpUsbury, Librarian, 1850.
The Inns of Court always boasted of their gardens. The Middle Temple has its
gardens with an avenue of Hmes ; the Inner Temple, a more extensive garden and pro-
* The ooner-sarth waa " well stocked with rabbits and fftme^" and by varloos ordinances of the
^l^cietT, Ump, Bdw. IV., Henry VII., and Henry VIII., penalties were imposed on the students hunting
^te rabbits with bows and arrows, or darts.
866 CURIOSITIES OF LONDON.
menade. In " the Temple Qarden," Sbakspeare has laid the scene of the origin of the
Ted and white roses as the cognisances of the houses of York and Lancaster : Richard
Flantagenet plndcs a white rose, and the Earl of Somerset a red one ; an altercation
•Dsaes^ when the Earl of Warwick thns addresses Flantagenet :—
" In ligiuJ of mjlpve to thee^
Affslnst proad Somenet tnd wUliam Poole,
Will I aponthy party wear tbii roees
And here I propneey, — this brawl to-day.
Grown to this netlon. in the Temple Gardei^
Shall tend, between the red roee and the white,
A thoniand loali to death and deadly niffht'*
Fir^FMi ofSemry FZ, aot U. ic 4.
The red and white Provence rose no longer blossoms here ; but both the Temple
Gardens are well kept, and chrysanthemams here attain surprinng perfection ontil
mid-winter: —
" Still alone, 'mid the tomolt. these gardens extend ;
The elm and the lime oyer flower-beds bend ;
• • • • •
The boat, and the bar^ and the wave, hare grown red;
And the sunset has crunsoned the boufffas over-head:
But the Umra are now shining, the colours are gone.
And the garden lies shadowy, nlent and lone."--lj. £. L.
Both Lincoln and Gray's Inn had an nnintermpted view over fields and gardens to
Bampstead and Highgate, which had then scarcely lost the rich woodland scenery of
the ancient forest of Middlesex. Gray's Inn Gardens were laid out nnder the direction
of Francis Bacon, who wrote so practically npon gardening.
" In the 40 EUs^ at a pension of the bench. ' the summe of 7Z. 16«. 4i. laid out for planting elm trees '
fak these gardens, was allowed to Mr. Bacon (afterwards Lord Yemlam and Lord ChanoeUor). On the
14th November, in the following year, there was an order made for a supply of more Toong dms ; and
it was ordered 'that a new ravle and quickset hedges ' should be set upon the unper long walk, at the
discretion of Mr. Bacon and Mr. Wilbraham ; the cost of which, as appearea by Bacon's account,
allowed 20tii April, 42 Eliz., was 002. St. Bd. Mr. Bacon erected a summer-house on a small mount on
Uie terrace, in wUch, if we may be allowed the conjecture, it is probable he frequentiy muaed upon
the sdl^ects of those great works which hare rendered nis name immortal."— Pearoe's Juma qf Court.
To this day here is a Catdlpa tree, raised from one planted by Lord Bacon, slips of
which are mnch coveted. The walks were in high fashion in Charles IL's time ; and
we read of Pepys and his wife, after chnrch, walking " to Gray's Inne, to observe
fashions of the lacBe8> because of my wife's making some clothes."
The City Halls, and mansions of the civic aristocracy, nsaally had their gardens,
with terraces and lime-tree walks, foontains, and summer-houses, and decorative
grottoes.
Grocers' Hall had in 1427 its pleasant garden, to which the citizens were admitted on petition to the
Company : it oontidned alleys, hedge-rows, and a bowling-alley, but was reduced in 180SL as we now
see it. Drapers' Hall had its garden in 1661, when rents were paid for admission-keys, and it became a
flRshionable promenade : it is now open to the public Merchant Tailors' Hall had its garden, with
alleys and a terrace, a treasury and summer banqueting^room. Salters* Hall (Oxford-place) had ita large
garden, into which the infamous Empson and Dudley (urnp, Henry YII.), living in ** two fure houses " m
the rear, '* had a dore of intercourse ;" and here ** they met and consulted of matters at their pleasures "
{Btou) I this betag originally the irarden of the Priors of Tortington. Ironmongers' HaU had also its
garden, for which we find charges for " cutting of the vines and roses, and knots of rosemary."
Sir Panl Pindar, contemporary with Sir Thomas Gresham, had his garden and park,
with an embellished lodge in the rear of his mansion, now a public-honse in Bishops-
gate-street ; the grounds are covered with lanes, alleys, and blind courts, reaching to
Finsbury-square. Gresham-house had also its spacious walks and gardens.
Finsbury-circus has a fine garden, which was threatened with devastation by a
BaUway Company, in 1862, when it was saved by the energy of the Directors, one of
whom, Mr. Alfred Smee, F.B.S., thus successfully advocated the preservation of this
lung of the City of London : — '
The centre constitutes a circle planted with exquisite toste with the choicest trees, and forms a fot<
•mtmbU which might be admired in any part of the world. It challenges for beauty the garden of any
square in London, and it is the admiration and astonishment of foreigners as an afBur of private enter-
prise, and not a creation of the State.
A return made by the gardener shows that it contains three trees 60 feet high, and 180 feet in
the circle of the head ; 20 trees between 46 and 66 feet high : 34 trees between 36 and 45 feet high;
00 trees between 26 and 36 feet high; and 107 trees between 16 and SO feet high ; besides upwards of
700 fine shrubs, and several beautiful weeping trees, all of more than half a century of growth. The
effect of trees in the centre of towns cannot be too much appreciated. They cany up Itfga quantities
GARDENS. 367
of water into the over-dried atmosphere, and this little foreit of trees must plaj an important and
beneficial part to the neighbourhood.
At the present time the Ci^ is too crowded, and contains by far too few open spaces and trees. There
are two trees in the Bank of England and one in Cheapside, two or three smaller ones in St. Panl's>
diarchyard, bat where are snch trees as we possess in iinsboxy Circos ?
Clerkenweil was, in the present century, famous for its gardens. About the year
1830y the Uned slope on the east mde of Bag^igge-wolls-road, had a pleasant rural aspect
from its number of "Myddelton Gardens," which belonged to prirate individuals rem*
dent in Clerkenweil, who, in their leisure hours, cultivated here flowers and vege-
tables. On these extensive garden-grounds streets and squares of houses have been
erected. Another famous group of Clerkenweil gardens, formerly belonging to the Hom-
pital of St. John of Jerusalem, and adjoining Clerkenwell-gpreen, were called Garden-
alleys; after the Dissolution, the Hospital* close, of three acres, was converted into gardens.
Milton had a poetic liking for *' gardet^houaeM,** of which there were many in his
time : his house in Aldersgate-street opened into a garden ; in 1651, he lived in Petty
France, now Westminster (York-street, No. 19), ** a pretty garden-house, opening into
the Pftrk ^ a cotton-willow tree is said to have been planted here by the poet's hand.
Aaron Hill had a house in Petty France, with a garden reaching to St. James's Park,
and a grotto in it, described in his Letter9 at some length.
Sir John Hill's famous "physic-garden" was at Bayswater; here he cultivated
medicinal plants, and prepared essences, tinctures, &c The site, after being long con-
verted into tea-gardens, is now covered with handsome houses.
Goring House, which occupied the site of Buckingham Palace, had a fountiun-garden,
westward of wUch was the cherry-garden and kitchen^garden of Hugh Audley, Esq.,
from whom Audley -street, Grosvenor-square, is named. Here, too, was a g^ve of
mulberry-trees, planted by King James I. ; afterwards " the Mulberry Garden." There
was another mulberry plantation at Chelsea, upon part of the gpnounds of Beaufort House.
Waller describes Uie wall in St. James's Park as
"All with a border of rich fruit*treM crown'd."
Brompton-park Nursery can be traced from 1681. Evelyn describes it as a large
and noble assembly of trees, evergreens, and shrubs, for planting the boscage, wilder-
ness, or grove ; with elms, limes, platansi, Constantinople chestnuts, and black cherry-
trees : its " potagere, meloniere, culiniere" garden ; seeds, bulbs, roots, and slips, for
the flowering garden : occupying about 56 acres. In 1705, its plants, at Id. each,
were valued at 40,OOOZ. ; and it had a wall half a mile long, covered with vines. London
and Wise were the proprietors in 1694 : they are praised by Addison in the Spectator
for their laying out of Kenstngton-g^ardens, where we also see Kent's ha-ha. The
" Brompton Stock" is a memorial of the celebrity of this district, which extended to
Chelsea ; but the gardens have mostly disappeared, and thdr ground is built upon :
the site of Trinity Church, Brompton, was, in 1828, a market-garden. Chelsea Hospital,
however, retains its terrace, little canals, shady lime-walks, and gigantic plane-tree9--a
curious specimen of the Dutch style, trnnp. William III. ; it has an octagon summer-
house, built by Sir John Yanbrugh. " The Old Men's Gardens" to the south-east^
including a part of the site of old Ranelagh, were added in 1826, when Lord John
Russell was Paymaster-General : here each pensiouer had his garden, the dressing of
which afforded society and employment ; but these gardens have disappeared.
In a garden at Little Chelsea the white moss-rose was first discovered, and success-
fully cultivated. As the eighteenth century advanced, the Botanic Grardens at Chelsea,
and its curator, Philip Miller, came into notice.
Buckingham- Palace Gardens comprise about forty acres, of which nearly Ave are a
lake : upon a mount is a pavilion of Chinese design, the interior decorated in the Pom-
peian and Baphaelesque style, with paintings from Milton's Comue, and Scott's novels
and poems, by Eastlake, Maclise, Ross, &c. : the grounds are secluded by majestic
ehns; whilst the principal front of the palace commands the landscape-garden of St.
Jam^s Park. The old palace of St. James's and Marlborough House, have their
gardens ; and in the same line were the grounds of Carlton House, with conservatories
and rookery, now occupied by lofty terraces of mansions ; but Buckingham House, and
the several Club-houses on the south side of Pall Mall, have their gardens.
Kensington Palace has its flower-garden of quaint design. In this direction lies
363 CURIOSITIES OF LONDON.
UoUand Uonse, with its stately cedars, oaks, and p'.anes ; its flower'garden, with ever-
greens clipped into fantastic forms ; heds of Italian and old English character, fbnntiuns
and terraces hefitting the architectural garden of this Elizahethan mansion : in the
" French Garden," in 1804^ was first raised in England the Di^hlia, from seeds sent by
Lord Holland from Spain.
Campden House, Kensington, had a sheltered garden, in whidi the wild oliTe once
flourished ; and here a caper-tree produced fruit yearly for a century.
Vauxhidl, noticed by Evelyn in 1661, as "the New Spring Garden, a pretty-
oontriv'd plantation," is mentioned otherwise than as a mei^ promenade : Monoconys,
about 1668, describes its squares " inclosed with hedges of gooseberries, within which
'were roses, beans» and asparagus."
Hard by was Tradescant's garden at South Lambeth, well stored with rare and
curious plants collected in his travels : including roses from Rose Island, near Port St.
Nicholas. This garden existed in 174:9, and is described in Pkilos, Trans. voL xlvL
Tradescant was ** King's Gardener," temp, Charles I. ; and, with his son, assembled
«t Lambeth the rarities which bucnme the nucleus of the Ashmolean Museum.
In the Cataloffue of their Garden, pnblished by the second Tradescant, are Hollyhoclu, Southern-
wood, Wormwood, tb» dasaical AeanUins, Prince's Feathers ; that " great Flonramour, or pnrple flowre
centle;" Anemones of ail sorts; Dogsbane; the "Arbor Jnds, or Judas Tree, with red flowres ;** the
Birthwortsofthe south; nnmeroos North- American plants; Meadow Sa£Drons fh>m Constantinople;
that "Fragraria None AngUn nondam descripta," the mother of our Keen's Seedlings, and Scariet and
British Queen Strawberries; th« ** EQppomarathrum," or Rhubarb of the Monks; Marrels of Peru;
" Paralysis (ktua, foolish Cowslip, or Jaok*an*apes on Hor8eback,"probablj the neen moMter of the
common Oilip; ntppas, or Virginian Potatoes: *'Populua alba Virginiana Tradescanti," i4>parently
one of our Tacamahaos; Musk Roses, Double Yellow Roses, and "Musoovie Roses:" Fox Grapes, from
Tirginia; White and Red Burlett Grapes, Currant Grape, Muscadells, " Frontinack or Musked Grape,
white and red; ** and other rarities, filling more than 100 pages.— C7arde»#K« CknmieU, 1862.
Lambeth was formerly noted for its public gardens. Here was Cuper's garden, laid
out with walks and arbours by Boydell Cuper, gardener to Thomas Earl of Arundel,
who gave Cuper some of the mutilated Arundelian marbles (statues), which he set up
in his gai'den : it was suppressed in 1753 : the site is now cxossed by Waterloo-
road. The site of St. John's Church, and Christ Church, Blackfriars-road, wns
formerly occupied by gardens, through which lay the old Halfpenny Hatch footpath.
{See St. Oeobob'b Fields, p. 876.)
Opposite the Asylum were the Apollo Gardens, opened about 1788 : the old orchestra
was removed to Sydn^ Ghirdens, Bath. In the present Southwark-bridge-road was
Finch's Grotto and Ghirden, established about 1760 : here Suett and Nan CatUey acted
and sang : the old Grotto house was burnt in 1795, but was rebuilt, and a stone inserted
with this inscription :—
"Here Herbs did grow.
And Flowers sweet;
But now 'tis call'd
8t George's-street."
Attached to some of the modem mansions in the town are pleasant landscape-
gardens : from the rear of Devonshire House is a rus-in-urhe seemingly extending to
Berkeley-square, by means of the sunken passage between the grounds of Lanadowne
and Devonshire Houses.
The gardens in the centres of the several Squares are oases highly kept. Mr. Loudon
was one of the first to recommend the lighter trees, as the Oriental plane, the syca-
more, the almond, and others, which now add greatly to the beauty of the London Squares.
The Nursery and Market Gardens around iLondon have yielded to raHways and
the buildUng of suburban towns.
The flTowth of London has pushed the Market Gardener gradually into the oounti^; and now, in-
stead of sending up his produce by his own waggons, he trusts It to the rulway, and is often thrown
into a market fever by a late delivery. To compensate him, however, fbr the altered state of the tiroes,
he often sells his crops like a merchant upon 'Cnange^ without the trouble of bringing more than a few
hand-samples in his pockets. He is nearly 70 years of age, but looks scarcely 60, and can remember
the time when there were 10,000 acres of ground within four miles of Charing^oss under cultiva-
tion for vegetables, besides about 3000 acres planted with firuit to supi^ the London consumption.
He has lived to see the Deptford and Bermondsev gardens curtailed ; the Hoxton and Hackney gardens
covered with houses; the Essex plantations pushed fiirther off; and the Brompton and Keusinfrton
nurseries— the home of vegetables for centuries— dug up and sown with International Exhibition
temples, and Italian gardens that will never ajow a jpca or send a single cauliflower to market. He
haa uvea to see Guernsey and Jersey, Comwall, the bdlly Islands, Holland, Belgium, and Portugal,
with many other more distant places, competing with the remote outakirts of London hzieka and mortar.
GARDENS. 309
and hu been staraered by sceinir the maitet rapplied with choice early peas from midi an oneipected
quarter as French Algeria.— ComAi^. Moffazine, 1866.
In the heart of London, some gardens are mnch frequented by birds. The garden
attached to the house of Mr. John Britton, at the soath end of Burton-street, St.
Psnerasy was much resorted to by the sparrow, robin, tomtit^ wren, crow, starling, and
whitethroat, the latter having bred here for several .years.
In St. George's, Bloomsbury, and a few other parishes, are held Working Men's
Flower-shows of window-sill floriculture — as fuchsias, geraniums, and other flowering
plants ; annuals are grown in pots by Sunday-school children, who thus rear dwarf
orange and lemon-trees, walnut-trees, and even date-palms and locust-trees, from stones
and seeds.
Churchyards, no longer used for interments, are now laid out as gardens. Sc.
Botolph's, Bishopsgate, has its flower-beds enriched with terra-cotta tiles, instead of box
edging; .Virginia stocks, scarlet and yellow nasturtiums, are favourite flowers; the
ihrubs are mostly poplars and planes : a sum is yearly voted by the vestry to keep
np this garden. The south-eastern portion of the burial-ground of St. Paul's Cathedral
has also been laid out in flower-beds, and planted with shrubs.
BoTAKio Gabsens. — In Great Britain, the first Botanic Gardens were called Physic
Gardens, and were used principally as places for growing and studying medical plants.
The first English Botanic Garden of which we have any distinct account was at Syoa
House, where it was under the superintendence of Dr. Turner, one of our earliest
English botanists. This was about the middle of the sixteenth century ; but a few
years later we find botany extensively cultivated in England; and L'Obel, after wliom
the genus Lobelia was named, was styled herbalist and botanist to James I. In the
nnt reign, as we have seen, Tradeacant had his botanic garden at South Lambeth ; and
UL the reign of Charles II., that at Chelsea was established.
BoTAKio Garden, ob " Phtbio Gabdeit," of the Afothecabieb' Comfant, upon
the Thames Bank at Chelsea, is maintained by the Company for the use of the medical
students of London. The ground was first laid out in 1678. Evelyn saw here, in
1685, a tulip-tree and a tea-shrub, and the first hot-house known in England ; ** the
robteminean heat conveyed by a stove under the conservatory, all vanlted with brick,"
to that " the doores and windowes" are open in the hardest froeta, excluding only the
>now. On Sir Hans Sloane purchasing the manor of Chelsea in 1721, he granteil the
^bold of the Gkirden to the Apothecaries' Company, on condition that the Professor
^'ho gave the lectures to the medical students should deliver annually to the Koyal
^ety fifty new plants, well cured and specifically described, and of the growth of
the Garden, till the number should amount to 2000. This condition was complied
with, and a list of the new plants published yearly in the Philotophiccd JSra/Moctiont,
for about fifty years, when, 2500 plants having been preeented, the custom was dls-
contiuued. The garden is about three acres in extent: it contains a marble
sUtue of Sir Hans Sloane, by Rysbrack, set up in 1733; 'and it formerly had
two noble cedars, planted in 1683, when about three feet high : in 1766, they mcHSurtKl
inore than twelve feet in circumference at two feet from the ground, and their branches
extended forty feet in diameter. One of these cedars is said to have been brought from
Lebanon for Sir Hans Sloane ; one was blown down in the year 1854. The Apothecaries'
(^pany give annually a gold and sliver medal to the best informed students in
botany who have attended this Garden; and they still observe an old custom of
■Qmmer herharizinff, or simpling excursions to the country, when the members axe
wcompanied by apprentices or pupils.
Botanic Societt (Rotal), incorporated in 1839, have gardens occupying a portion
<^the Inner Circle, Regent's Park, formerly Jenkins's Nursery. They consist of about
eighteen acres, but they have been laid out by Mamock with so much skill as to
»ppear of very much greater extent : they contain a winter garden ; besides a conser-
^tory, entirely of glass and iron, covering 15,000 square feet, which cost about 6000/.,
and will accommodate 2000 visitors. The Society hold exhibitions, and distribute prize
ntedals. Tlie Rock, Winter, and Landscape Gardens, with their lake and artificial
mound, are very picturesque, and of the natural school There are, also, a Llbratyi
B B
370 CURIOSITIES OF LONDON.
and an mefal Mmeom, Dlnstrative of the varieties of strnctare in the parfai of pliints,
their prodncti and iiaea. In leveral parti of the botanic ground are privet hedges, ejch
forming the segment of a circle, and cnrionsly cot so as to make each look like a minis-
tore green wall. These hedges axe for the purpose of sheltering some of the more
tend^ plants from the wind. Beyond the arrangement of plants according to the
Katnral System, is a medical garden. Farther on is a collection of British plants
arranged according to the classes and orden of Linnssns, as an example of the T/mnatem
System.
HoBTXCTTLTUSAL Socixtt'b Gabdxvb, Thc^ at Chiswick, are thirty-three acres in
extent, and were commenced in 1821 : they comprise Orchard and Kitchen, Hot-bouse
and Tender and Hardy departments, the latter containing the arboretum and flower-
garden ; besides a conservatory, 184 feet long, 25 feet high, and about 80 feet wide.
The arboretum contains the richest collection of trees and shrubs in Europe; the
orchard is the most perfect ever formed ; and the forcing-houses and hot-bouses are
complete. The Society distributes plants, seeds, and cuttings, to Members, foreign
correspondents, and the British colonies. In 1861, the Horticultural Society decided
upon forming another Garden at South Kensington, where the Commissioners of tiie
Great JBxbibition of 1S51 let to the Society the upper part of the great centre sqcaiv
of their estate, about twenty-two acres ; the CJommissoners expending about 50,UU0/.
in building arcades in the new Gardens ; the Society expending an equal amount in
to traces, fountains^ conservatories, and in laying out the grounds. The arcades were
designed by Sydney Smirke and Captun Fowke, and the Gardens were laid out br
Nestield.' The great Conservatory, at the northern extremity of the Garden, is of gins
and iron, and is 263 feet long, and 75 feet 6 inches in height : the span of the arched
roof is 45 feet ; the columns are 15 feet apart ; there is an arcade, with flights of stains
leading to the gnllery and to the top of the upper arcades in the Garden. The arcade
in the conservatory is formed with terra-cotta columns, and ornamented brick arches.
The works are thus jocosely described : — "So the brave old trees which skirted the
paddock of Gore House were feUed, little ramps were raised, and little slopes sliced
off, with a fiddling nicety of touch which would have delighted the imperial grandeor
of the Summer Palace ; and the tiny declivities thus manufactured were tortured into
curvilinear patterns, where sea-sand, chopped coal, and powdered bricks atoned for the
absence of flower or shrub." {Quarterly Review.) The area was inclosed with Mr.
Smirke's Renaissance arcades, in brick at the upper portion, and the terra-cotta imita-
tion of the Lateran cloister, produced by the Department round the southern halfl
Among the more prominent ornamental olgects in the Gardens are the cascade and ita
stupendous basin, and Minton's superb Majolica FounUdn. The Gardens are elaborately
described in Tke Book <f the Ro^al SortUmUural Society, 1862-1863. (^
MuBEiTMB: South Kensington.)
Kew Rotal BoTAinoAX Gaedbvb are generally considered the richest in £ng:laiid,
though comparatively of recent formation. The Prince of Wales, son of George II-,
and father oif George III., lived at Kew House, which had extenuve pleasure-groands;
and, after his death, his widow, the Princess Dowager, assisted by the Earl of Bute,
esfublished the Botanic Ghirden. Several years afterwards Sir Joseph Banks bestowed
upon it the immense collection of plants and seeds he had obtained in his voyages ; uud
other travellers following his example, the Gardens soon became filled with the rarest
and choicest plants. The new Pslm-house is 362 feet 6 inches long ; the ribs ami
columns are of wrought iron, and the roofs are glazed with sheet glass, slightly tinged
green ; the floor is of perforated cast-iron, under which are laid the pipes, ^i ''^i*
warming by hot water ; and the smoke is conveyed from the fumsces by a flue, 479
feet, to an ornamental shaft or tower, 60 feet in height. The cost of this magiiific^Dt
Palm-house has been upwards of SO,OOOZ. The Gai^ens, under the judicious curator-
ship of Sir W. J. Hooker, were greatly extended and improved. Among the rarities
here is a weeping willow, raised from that which overshadowed Napoleon's remains at
St. Helena;* the Egyptian papyrus; the bread-fruit-tree from the South Sea IsIuikU;
* Willows ftwD. slips broQfrhtfirora Napoleon's trees at St. Helena were^ in the year 1886, flou'i^tii"'
ki the garden of Captain Stevens, Beaomont-sqaare, Mile End; in the grounds of^the late Sir ThoibU
QAS'LIQBTING. 371
the ooooa-mxt^ coffee, and cow trees; the banana and cycas (sago); the gigantic
Tnssack grassiy &c The Gardens are the richest in the world in New HoUand plants.
The Herbarium receives large collections from important Government expeditions;
applications for advice from persons proceeding to take charge of plantations of tea,
cinchona cotton, coffee, &c. ; and the redoabled activity of the colonies in the publica-
tion of thdr FUroi, which, though paid for by the Colonial Government, can only be
prepared at Eew, or by persons in direct and constant correspondence with its Her-
iQaria and Moseoms. The Flora of the British possessions in In^ is proceeded with
upon the same plan as the colonial Flora*, Very satisfibctory has been the success of
the introduction of cinchona plantations in India, in the establishment of which Kew
has had 00 large a share.
GAs^LiGSTmra.
rPHE Very Rev. Dr. Clayton, Dean of Kildare. having experimentally ascertained that
-I- a permanently elastic and inflammable aeriform fluid is evolved from pit-coal i
described the same in a letter to the Hon. Robert Boyle, who died in 1691 ; though the
^^aooveiy was not published in the PhilosopMoal TVanMactiofu till the year 1739.
Hughes, in his Ih'eaHse on Ooi-works, 1858, says : — " To the celebrated "Dr. Watson,
Bishop of Tilandaff, we are indebted for the first notice of the important fact, that coal
gas retains its inflammability after pasedng through water into which it was allowed to
ascend through curved tubes;" but there is evidence in the MisceUanea Curiosa,
170&-6-7, vol iiL p. 281, to show that Dr. Clayton also discovered that gas retains its
inflammability after passing through water. (See Notes and Queriee, 2Qd S., Ko. 38»
pp. 324-5.)
Although the Chinese have, for ages, employed natural Coal-Gas for lighting their
streets and houses, only within the present century has Gas superseded in London the
dim oil-lights and cryital-glass lamps of the preceding century. Dr. Johnson is said to
have had a prevision of this change ; when, one evening, from the window of his house
in Bolt-court, he observed the piurish lamplighter ascend a ladder to light one of the
glimmering oil-lamps : he had scarcely descended the ladder hal^ay when the flame
expired; quickly returning, he lifted the cover partially, and thrusting the end of his
torch beneath it, the flame was instantly communicated to the wick by the thick
vapour which issued from it. " Ah !" exclaimed the Doctor, " one of these days the
streets of London will be lighted hy emoke !** (Notes and Queries, No. 127.)
Coal-gas had been used for lighting by William Murdoch, in Cornwall, Birmingham,
and Manchester as early as 1792, when F. A. Winsor, a Grerman, after several experi-
ments, lighted the old Lyceum Theatre in 1803-1804; he also established a Kew
Light and Heat Company, with 50,000Z. for further experiments ; in 1807 he lighted
one side of Pall Mall, and on the King^s birthday (June 4^) brilliantiy illuminated the
waU between Fall Mall and St. James's Fftrk ; and next exhibited Gas-light at the
€k>lden-lane Brewery, August 16, 1807.
Li 1809 Winsor applied to Parliament for a charter, when the testimony of Accnm,
the chemist, was bitterly ridiculed by the Committee. In 1810-12 was esta-
blished the Gas-Light and Coke Company, in Oumou-row, Westminster ; removed to
Peter-street, or Horseferry-road, then the rite of a market-garden, poplars, and a tea-
garden. In 1814 Westminster Bridge was lighted with gas; and the old oil-lamps
were removed from St. Margaret's parish, and gas lanterns substituted ; and on Christmas-
day, 1814^ commenced the general lighting of London with gas. Tet the scheme had
been so ridiculed, that Sir Humphry Davy, F.R.S., asked *' if it were intended to take
the dome of St. Foul's for a gasometer." Dr. Amott has truly said, with respect tp the
mistakes about gas-lighting, that " such scientific men as Davy, Wollaston, and Watt,
at first gave an opinion that coal-gas could never be safely applied to the purposes of
street lighting."
''Wmsor's patent Gas" first illumined (Jan. 28, 1807,) the Carlton House side of
Jsxquhsr at Boebanmton ; in the garden of the Roeback Tavern, Biehmond Hill ; at No. 1, CsDOnbarr-
place, Islington; in Mr. BentleVa garden, Hifhbory Grange; at No. 10, King-atrect,8t. James*!; in the
Barrar Zoological Gardens ; at Kew ; and at No. 11, Brompton-row.— J. H. FennelL in London's Jrbof'
B B 2
872 CURIOSITIES OF LONBOK
P&ll Mall ; the second, Bishopsgate- street. The writer attended a lecture giv&i by
the inventor ; the diarge of admittance was three shillings, but, as the inventor was
about to apply to Parliament, members of both houses were admitted gratis. The
writer and a fellow-jester assumed the parts of senators at a short notice. " Memben
of Fftrliament !" was their important ejnculation at the door of entrance. " What places,
gentlemen P" " Old Sarum and Bridgewater." " Walk in, gentlemen.*' Luckily, the
real Simon Pnres did not attend. This FftU Mall illumination was further noticed in
Horace in London .•— >
" And Winior lights, with ^ame of gas,
Home to Klng'i-place hii mother."
In the Peace R^oidngs of 1814, the Chinese bridge and pagoda on the canal, in St.
James's Park, were lighted with gas. Mr. Jerdan, in his Autobiography, relates : —
" My Mend, Darid Pollock, who was abont the earliest promoter of the introdaction of gas firom
the invention of Mr. Winsor— the first successftil experimentalist with it in his ,own dwelling — and
for 30 years Governor of the Chartered Gas Light and Coke Company, was so conc^ed in the applieir
tion, that he hastened to London from the Circuit to be present at the lighting of the bridge and pagOMd»
with this new flame. Mortifying to relate, it will be remembered that the pagoda canght fire t the gas
was pat out, happily without explosion, and ev^ part thrown into smould^ng darknws."
In 1814, a Committee of Members of the Royal Society was appointed to inquire
into the causes which led to an explosion of the Gas-works in Westminster, which bad
only just been established. The Committee consisted of Sir Joseph Banks, Sir C.
Blagden, Col. Congreve, Mr. Lawson, Mr. Bennie, Br. Wollaston, and Dr. Toong
They met several times at the Gas-works, for the purpose of examining the apparatus^
and made a very elaborate Report. They were strongly of opinion that if gas-
lighting was to become prevalent, the Gras-works ought to be placed at a considerable
distance from all buildings, and that the reservoirs, or gasometers, should be small and
numerous ; and always separated from each other by mounds of earth, or strong party-
walls. (Weld's HisU Boyal Society, vol. ii. pp. 2S5-6,) |
In 1822, St. James's Park was first lighted with gas ; and the last important locality
to adopt gas lighting was Grosvenor- square in 1842.
Theatres were first lighted in 1817-18; church dock-dials in 1827. The Hay-
market was the last of the London theatres into which gas was introduced, in conse-
quence of some absurd prejudice of the proprietor of that theatre, who bound tlie lessee
to adhere to the old-fiiflhioned method of lighting with oiL The change took place
April 16, 1853.
Coal-gas is made ^m coal enclosed in red-hot cast-iron or clay cylinders, or retorts;
when hydro-carhon gases are evolved, and coke left behind ; the gas being carried away
by wide tubes, is next cooled and washed with water, and then exposed to lime in dose
purifiers. It is then stored in sheet-iron g^-holders, miscalled gasometers : some of
which hold 700,000 cubic feet of gas ; and the several London Companies have storage
for millions of cubic feet of gas. Thence it is driven by the weight of the gas-holders
through cast-iron mains or pipes under the streets, and from them by wrought-iron
serviee*pipes to the lamps and burners.
The London Gas Company's works, Vauxhall, are the most powerful and complete
in the world : from this point, their mains pass across Yauxhall-bridge to western
London; and by Westminster and Waterloo Bridges to Hampstead and Highgate,
seven miles distant, where they supply gas with the same precision and abundance as
at Vauxhall.
Gas made from oil and resin is too costly for> street-lighting, but has been used for
large public establishments. Covent-garden Tlieatre was formerly lighted with oil-
gas, made on the premises ; and the London Institution, with resin-gas, first made by
Mr. Daniell. The lime-ball, Bude, Boccius, and electric lights have been exhibited
experimentally for street-lighting, but are too expensive. Upon the Patent Air-light
(from the vapour of hydro-carbon, mixed with atmospheric air), proposed in 1S38,
upwards of 30,0002. were expended unsuccessfully.
What has the new light of all the preachers done for the morality and order of London, compared
to what had been effected by gas lighting ! Old Murdoch alone has suppressed more vice than the
Buppression Society; and has been a greater police-oificer into the bargtun than old Colquhoun and
Bir Richard Blmie vaxite±—We»tmiiitter Review, 1829.
From a recent Parliamentary Betoxn, it appears that in the year 1805, the total revenae paid by the
GATE-E0U8E—0E0L00Y OF LONDON, 373
eoniamcn and the public for gaa in the metropolis, amoonts to the large sum of 1,767,2612. 19«. 9d, per
amunn. This total increases evexy year with the growth of the metropolis and the increased consump-
tion of gas.
A poolic lamp has been kept up in a part of Billingsgate, where, upwkrds of 200 years ago, a citizoi
fUl at night and broke his leg, and afterwards bequeathed a sum of U. a year for the maintenance
there of a public light at night for all time. The money has been paid for two oentuiies ; and, since Uie
introduction of gas, to a gas company, who have kept up the light.
An ordinary candle consumes as much air while burning as a man in health while
breathing ; the same may be said with regard to gas, oil-lamps, &c, bearing a propor-
tion to the amount of light evolved. One hour after the gas of London is lighted, the
air is deozydized as much as if 500,000 people had been added to its population.
During the combustion of oil, tallow, gas, &c., water is produced. In cold weather we
see it condensed on the windows of ill-ventilated shops. By the burning of gas in
London during twenty-four hours, more water is produced than would supply a ship
laden with emigrants on a voyage from London to Adelaide.
GATEHOUSE {TEE), WESTMINSTEE, .
BUILT temp, Edward III. as the principal approach to the Monastery, stood at the
western entrance of Tothill-street, and consisted of two gates, the southern, leading
out of Great Dean's-yaid, and a receptacle for felons. On the east side was the Bishop
of London's prison for clerks-convict; the rooms over the other gnto adjoining, but
towards the west, being a prison-house for state, ecclesiastical, and parliamentary
oflfenders, prisoners from the Court of Conscience, as well as for debtors and felons.
The latter were brought hither through Thieving-lane and Union-street, to prevent
escape by entering the liberties of Sanctuary.
Ainong the distinguished prisoners confined here were, Nicholas Vaux, for propagating
the Romish religion — he died here of cold and hunger, 1571 ; Lady Purbeck, for
adultery, 1622 — she escaped to France, disguised in a man's dress; John Selden,
1630 ; Sir Walter Raleigh, his last prison-house, whence he was led to the block in
Old Palace-yard ; Lovelace, the Cavalier poet, who wrote here his loyal song, " To
Althtea, from prison ;** Sir Charles Lyttleton, whom Clarendon sud was " worth hiB
weight in gold;" in 1690, Pepysi, the diai'ist, charged with being affected towards the
abdicated James II. ; Sir Jeffi*ey Hudson, the court-dwarf, suspected of joining the
Popish Plot, died here ; in 1701, five " men of Kent," for a " scandalous, insolent, and
seditious" petition to the House of Commons ; in 1716, Thomas Harley, for prevarica-
tion to the House of Commons; the nonjuring Jeremy Collier, 1692; and Richard
Savage* the poet, committed here for the murder of Mr. Sinclair in a tavern fray. The
debtors used to let down upon a pole an alms-box, to collect money from the passers in
the street. The Gate-house was taken down in 1777 ; except one arch, which remained
till 1836 in the wall of the house once inhabited by the Right Hon. Edmund Burke.
(See Walcott's Westminster^ p. 278.)
GEOLOGY OF LONDON.
«
WE g^ve the views of certain of our leading geologists. The area on which the
metropolis is situated, as well as the surrounding district to a distance varying
from a radius of ten to twenty or thirty miles, consists of the marine tertiary eocene
(dawn of recent) strata, which have been deposited in, and still occupy a depression or
excavation of the chalk called the London basin. Around this formation the chalk
forma a distinct boundary, on the south, west, and north rising up into chains of hiUs
or downs, averaging 400 feet in height above the level of the Thames ; but on the east
the range u broken, and the tertiary basin lies open to the sea, affording a passage for
the Thames and its tributary streams. {Mantell.)
The chalk, so prominent in the country around Gravesond, Croydon, and Epsom»
panes beneath London at a depth not exceeding 150 to 250 feet. It is covered, first,
by a series of beds of sand and mottled clays, 50 to 80 feet thick ; and these are again
overlaid by the London clay, from 100 to 400 feet thick : in the south-east comer of
the county it is only 44 feet thick ; while at White's Clnb-houne, St. James's- street, it
is 235 feet. This clay is usually very tough and tenacious, with the exception of a por-
tion of its upper beds, which is mixed with sand. Mr. R. W. Mylne, F.G.S., in his
874 CUBI08ITIEB OF LONDON.
^ Geological and Topographical ]iiap8»" 1852, was the first to point oat the exact extent
of these higher hedsi, upon the natnre of the snrfkoe on which tho pleasant character of
the country of Higbgate and Hampstead is dependent.* But the most remarkable
variety in the geological features — a variety attended by a corresponding diversity of
scenery — occurs in the district between Woolwich, Greenwich, Blackheath, and Lewis-
ham. We there find the outcrc^ of no less than five different groups of strata, oom-
mendng with the chalk and ending with the London day. Throughout a great part
of London, this clay is overlud by drift gravel, varying from 5 to 20 feet in thickness.
The chalk basin, formed by the strata bending or dipping in the middle, contains pure
water ; into this formation the Artesian Wells of London are often carried down ; but
it is a question as to the quantity. (See Abtebian Wbllb, p. 23.)
The gravel is not confined to the low grounds, but caps the highest summits of tho
dirtricts — 6.^., Highgate on the north, and Shooter's Hill on the south, of the Thames.
To explain this distribution of the gravel by the operation of the actual rivers, we must
first suppose that an uniform phun originally existed from the summit of Highgate to
the Hertfordshire chalk downs, and from the top of Shooter's Hill to those of Kent, on
the surface of which the rivers once flowed; secondly, that these rivers have subse-
quently washed away all that immense mass of material which would be requiate thus
to re-construct the surface ; and thirdly, that after having worn down that surface into
nearly its present form, the rivers perpetaally shifted their channels, so as to distribute
the gravel equally over the whole plain of London, yet remained long enough In each
channel to lodge there depomts of this gravel 20 or SO feet thick. {Conyheare.}
Mr. Prcstwich, F.R.S., F.G.S., has, in three lectures, entitled The Ground be»eali
Us, most lucidly explained its geological phases and changes. Thus, immediately below
the vegetable soil, in many parts of the metropolis, we find a bed of ochreoas-coloored
g^vel, which is the great source of water-supply to all the historic pumps of the City
and of Westminster. The greater part of this gravel was brought from the hills of
Surrey and Sussex, which have sent us alike the flints, the sandstone and the chert,
which compose the bulk of it. A few pebbles formed of quarts slate and other sub-
stances, have evidently been brought from the north-west, by forces acting in a direc-
tion diametrically opposite to those which wore down the chalk of Southern England,
and deposited its flints in the London basin. How the g^vel came is explained by
these hypotheses : — 1. A great body of water may have swept from the southward into
the valley of the Thames ; 2, a large river flowing through Sussex and Surrey may have
brought down fragments of the rocks over which it passed ; 3, marine currents may have
scattered the gravel over the surface of the country ; 4, ice may have brought its vast,
and, as yet, perhaps, imperfectly miderstood power to aid in the production of the
phenomena around us. To all these theories there are objections ; but we may pro-
visionally accept them all, and allow that the force to whidb each would assign a too
exclusive pre-eminence may have done its part in heaping up that mighty gravel-bed
which is so important to the health of the " world-city on the banks of the Thames."
Mr. Prestwich has examined both the position of the gravel in the geological series, and
the organic remains which are found in various parts of it ; in which investigation he
has drawn largely upon Professor Owen's Sritieh Fossil Mammals and Birds. On the
whole, he concludes that the gravel was spread over Clapliam-common before the land
in the neighbourhood of London had quite assumed its present configuration.
The London clay immediately underlies the gpravel of the metropolis, at a depth
generally of from three to twelve feet; although, of course, it is really separated fii^m
it by a vast interval of geological time, by part of the Eocene and by all the Miocene
and Pliocene periods. The London clay is very homogeneous in its mass, and where
frilly developed it measures from 40O to 500 feet in thickness. In the middle of the
Thames Valley a great portion of it has been swept away, and at Clapham it is only
about 200 feet thick. After determining the position of the London clay in the geo-
* Mr. Mylne hss issued a "Map of the Geolooy and Contonrs of London and its Environs," 1857,
which, to a scale of 3| inches to one mile, exhibfts an area of 176 square miles— extending from Kew-
bridge on the west to Plumstead Marshes on the east, distant sixteen miles; and from Homsey on the
north, to the Crvstal Palace on the south, distant eleven miles— showing the variations of level by
contour lines, ond the geolorical features of the surdoMse of the ground in and around London, and giving
smfih other useful informauon.
8T. OEOEGWa FIELDS. 375
logical scale, Mr. Fl-estwich examines the organic remains of the formation, from the
microflcopic foraminifera np to pachyderms allied to the tapir of South America. The
plants of Sheppey are also noticed. The characteristic pyritized fruits and twigs of
the London clay may be found by tens of thousands upon the open beach at Sheemess.
Lower London Tertiaries are a much less homogeneous deposit than the mass of clay
which lies above it. It is divided into three sub-groups, the highest of which is known
as the " basement bed" of the London clay. This is a marine deposit, agreeing in
mineralog^cal character with the strata which lie beneath it, but closely connected with
the superincumbent mass by the character of its fossils. Next comes the " Woolwich
and Beading Series," a group of fresh water and estuary origin. Still lower we have
the " Thanet Sands," a small marine deposit.
The " Thanet Sands" are economically of great importance, as forming " nndemeath
London and the adjacent districts a large water-bearing stratum — ^that which supplies
all the early and many of the later Artesian wells." A large layer of chalk flints of a
deep olive or bottle-green colour lies at the base of the " Thanet Sands," and separates
them from the upper surface of the chalk. Mr. Prestwich sets before us that wonderful
period, comparatively so near to us, when, during the period of the " London day,"
nnder a sun such as now shines on Temate and Tidore, tall palms and gigantic lianes,
and stiff-leaved evergreens were haunted by great troops of monkeys and by huge
pachyderms. There are also some very interesting remarks which bear likewise upon
the phenomena of the coal period, as to the impossibility of accounting for the hot
climate of the Lower Eocene by a mere change in the relative position of land and
water. — Paper in 8at%trday Review, 1858.
Amongst the contents of the London basin are balls of imperfect ironstone (t«p<arta), of which
Parker's cement is made ; branches and stems of trees, penetrated by the teredo naoaU*, are found here,
M is also a species of rerin. A fossil tree and nautili were found in di^mg the Primrose-hill railwaj-
tnnnel. Bemains of tartles and crocodiles, and elephants' teeth and tusks, have been dug out of the
olay at Highgate and Islington.
Fossils are occasionally found on the rising slopes near HoIIoway, formed by the earth thrown np in
1812, when the Highgate tunnel was made. Fine specimens of eehiniu marinue (sea urchin) have been
picked np In a fiera contiguons to the archway, together with a fish resembling a sole; another fish,-
resembling a mackerel, in the brick-fields ; and a narrow stratum of dusty earth abounds with mussels,
pectines, and other fossil bivalves: with large quantities of iron combined with sulphur, in the form
of pyrites. In a meadow behind Caen Wood Is a spring highlr impr^nated with iron.
In 1813, Mr. Trimmer's brick-fields, at Brentford, yielded such a collection of sea-shells, sharks'
teeth, bones of the elephant, hippopotamus, ox, and deer, t(^{ether with flresh-water shells, as to remind
one of the relics of a vast menagerie of animals Ax)m all quarters of the globe ; and in 1810, in excavat-
ing 40 feet deep near Kew Bridge, were found several nautili, and smaller marine shells. For the
diiippearance of the British mammoths, whose remains are found here, Sir R. I. Murchison accounts
by viewing England as the comparatively small island she was, when the ancient estuary of the Thames^
including the plains of Hyde Park, Chelsea, Hounslow, and Oxbridge, were under water, and the
eoontry thus afforded but insufficient feeding-grounds for these stupendous quadrupeds. In the da^s of
the Mammoths, we had in Enghmd a hippopotamus larger than the species which now inhabits the Nile.
Of our British hippopotamus some remains were dug up by the workmen in preparing the foundatioos
of the New Junior United Service Club-house, in Begent-etreet.
Boeene is Sir Charles Lyell's term for the lowest group of the Tertiaiy system in which the dawn of
recent Uto appears ; and any one who wishes to reaUze what was the aspect presented bv this country
during the Kocene period, need only go to Sheemess. If, leaving that place behind him, ne walks down
the Thames, keeping dose to the edge of the water, he will find whole bushels of pyritized pieces of
twigs and fruits. These fhuts and twigs belong to plants nearly allied to the screw-pine and custard-
apple^ and to various species of palms and spice-trees which now flourish in the Eastern Archipelago.
At the time they were washed aown firom some ndghbouring land, not only crocodilian reptiles, but
■barks and ionnmerable turtles, inhabited a sea or estuary wnioh now forms part of the London dis-
trict; and huge boaKwnstrictors glided amongst the trees which fringed the adjoining shores.
8T. Qjsouairs fields,
BETWEEN Lambeth and the borongh of Sonthwark, were anciently an important
district, occupied by the Bomans, attested by the hurge quantities of coins, bricks,
an urn full of bones^ tessellated pavements, &c., found here ; the urn is preserved in the
Museum of the Royal Society. St. George's Fielj^ were also crossed by the great
Roman road, Watling-street, presumed to have passed from Kent through Old Croydon,
or Woodcote (supposed to be the ancient Noviomagus), Streatham, and Newington, to
Stone-street in Sonthwark ; and thence by a ferry over the Thames to Dowgate and
the WatUng-Btreet of our day. A branch of the Ermine-street, from Chichester in
Sussex, IS ako ooijectured to have assumed the name of Stone-street on entering Surrey i
376 CURIOSITIES OF LONDON.
and to have passed by Dorking, Woodoote, Streatham, Kennington, and Newington,
across St. George's Fields, into Southwark. This Roman occupation is, however, disputed.
MalUsnd, who eareftilly eumtoed this district, uif%, " It oan hardly be sappoied that the ssffaeioas
Bomsns would hare made choice of so noioome a place for a station as bt George's-in-the-FieloB mart
have been ; for to me it Is evident, that those fields must hsve been orerfiowed by ereir spring tide.
Notwithstanding the river being at present confined by srtihdai banks, I hare fireqnently at spring-
tides seen the small current of water which issues firom the river Thames through a common sewer at
the Falcon not only fill all the neighbouring ditches, hut also at the upper end of Gravel-lane, overflow
Its banks Into St. George's Fields ; and considering that a twelfth part of the water of the river is
denied jpassage by the mers and sterlings of (old) London-bridge (it flowing at an ordinarr spring-tide
upwards of 19 Inches higher on the east than on the west side of the said Dridge), I think that this Is
a plain indication that before the Thames was confined by banks, St George's-in-ttie-fields must have
been considerably under water every high tide, snd that that part of the said fields, called Lambeth-
marsh was imdor water not an age ago."
St George's Fields anciently Included the whole space peninsulated by the bend of the river Thames,
commencing at Greenwich, and terminating at Nine Elms. This was, probablv, originally a large
marshy bay, across which were several lines of transit at low water, leading from the rismg grounds at
Norwood, Camberwell, and Dulwlch. to fords at various places across the Thames. Ftolemv (second
century) mentions that the Romans had ihen settled south of the river, though the north bank was
their original station : subsequently, the tract called St. George's Fields having been partially drained,
and eau»eway» (as at Newington) through the marshes constructed, forts and other buildmgs were
erected, and a southern suburb of London gradually arose.— Braylsy's Smrreg, voL v. p. 337.
Nearly to the present century, the Fields lay waste, and were the scene of bmtalizing
sports, political meetings^ and low places of entertainment. In their water-dUtches
Oerarde found plenty of water-?iolets : and scores of gardens existed here to our time.
Here a riot was raised by the mobs who met to visit AVilkes in the King's Bench
Prison, in 1768; and here Lord George Gordon's rioters met, June 2, 1780; and on
the 7th, the 700 prisoners in the Kingp's Bench were liberated, and the building set
on fire by the populace. Here were the Dog and Duck Wells, in 1695, which grew to
be a Subbath-breaking tavern ; the premises were last tenanted as the School for the
Indigent Blind ; the site is now included in Bethlem Hospital, and the sculptured
sign-stone preserved in the boundary-wall denotes the ute of the tavern-entrance.
(See Bethlsm Hospitax., p. 51; Blind School, p. 58; and St. George's Bomak
Catholic Chubch, p. 288.)
ST. eiLUS'S,
ORIGINALLY a village in the north-west suburbs of London, was named from an
Hospital for lepers, dedicated to the Saint, built on the site of a small church or
oratory, and nearly upon the site of the present church, about 1117, by Matilda, queen
of Henry I. The gardens and precincts extended between High-street and Hog-lane
(now Crown-street), and the Pound,* west of Meux's brewery. In 1213, the village
was laid out in ganlen-plots, with cottages; it had its andent stone cross; and about
1225 there was a blacksmith's shop at the north-west end of Drury-lane, which re-
mained long after the suppression* of the Hospital,! or about 1600, when the " verie
pleasant village" was built over ; "on the High-street, Holbom," says Stow, "have
ye many faire houses builded, and lodgings for gentlemen, inns for travellers, and such
like, up almost, for it hu:keth littie, to St. GUes's-in-the-Fields."
Aggas's plan shows fields and g^ardens from St. Giles's Hospital wall to Chancery-
lane, eastward, with a few houses at the north end of Drury-lane, and opposite the pre-
sent Red Lion-street, Holborn. Thence to the north side of the Strand are two or
three houses in Covent-garden ; Drury House, at the bottom of Drury-lane ; and cattle
grazing on the site of Great Queen-street, Lincoln's-inn-fielda. Early in Uie reig^ of
Queen Anne, the whole parish of St. Giles's, except the ndghbourhood of Bedford-
square and the present Bloomsbury, was covered with houses.
The village of St. Giles's was noted for its earlv inns and houses of entertainment Here was
Croebe House (Le Croeke Ko—^ or the Crossed Stockmgs, sig^i)* which belonged to the Hospital cook,
anno 1900, and was opposite the north end of Monmouth-streetl The Swan on the Hoop, in Holborn,
* The exact site of St. Giles's Pound (whence miles on the Oxford road were measured), is an ares
of 30 feet of the broad space where St Giles's, High-street^ Tottenham-court-road, and Oxford-street,
meet ; around it was a nestling-place of crime :
*' At Newgate-steps Jack Chance was found.
And bred up near St Giles's Pound."
t The celebrated Dr. Andrew Boorde rented for many years the Master's Houses Umf. Henry VIIL
8T. GILES'S. 377
of Dmry-lane, is mentioned 34 Edward III.; and the White Hart, corner oi Holbom and Dmiy-
, is shown in Anfts's plan, 1560, and was an inn till 1720. Not far eastward was the Rose, named
4leed, Edward III.; with the Vine, a little east of Kingsgate-street, supposed to have been on the
6it« of the Vineyard in Holbom, named in Domesday Book. The Vine was token down in 1817, and
I ho lionse built on its site was occupied bv Probert, the accomplice of the murderer John Thurtell.
The Maidenhead inn, in Dyott-street, flourished early in the reign of Queen Klizabeth. The Turnstile
"Tsbwoni, south-west comer of Great Turnstile, was bequeathed to the parish in 1640; and theCk>ok and
in the fields of that name.
Jlbont the year 1413, the gallows was removed from the Elms in Smithfield to the
north end of the garden- wall of St. Giles's Hospital; and it is figured in an ancient
plan of the district.
1416. " Thys yere the xiiij day of December Sir John Oldecastell Knyghte was drawne from the
tourer of liondon un to cent Gylles in the felde and there was hongyd (on a gallows new made) and
bzient.— ' C^nmicle t^ ike Qrey Frian qf London,
The gallows was again removed westward to Tyham, when St. Giles's hecame a sort
of half-way hoase for condemned criminals, who stopped at the Hospital, and afterwards
att^ an hostel built near its site, and were there presented with a large howl of ale. This
^aye a moral taint to St. Giles's, and made it a retreat for noisome and squalid outcasts.
Xhe Puritans made stout efforts to reform its morals ; and, as the parish books attest,
** oppressed tipplers" were fined for drinking on the Lord's-day, and vintners for per-
Tuitting them ; fines were levied for swearing oaths, travelling and brewing on a fast-
day, &a. Again, St. Giles's was a refuge for the persecuted tipplers and ragamuffins of
Xiondon and Westminster in those days ; and its blackguardism was increased by harsh
treatment. It next became the abode of knots of disaffected foreignersi chiefly French-
xnen, of whom a club was held in Seven Dials. Smollett speaks, in 1740, of " two
tattotlemalions from the purlieus of St. Giles's, and between them both there was but
one shirt and a pair of breeches." Hogarth painted his moralities from St. Giles's t
his " Gin-lane" has for its background St. (George's Church, Bloomsbury, date 1751 1
*' when," says Hogarth, " these two prints (' Gin-lane' and ' Beer-streef ) were
designed and engraved, the dreadful consequences of gin-drinking appeared in every
house in Gin-lane; every circumstance of itu horrid effects is brought to view in tet"
rorem — not a house in tolerable condition but the jj^awnbroker's and the g^-shop* — the
coffin-maker's in the distance." Again, the scene of Hogarth's ** Harlof s Progress"
is in Druty-lane ; Tom Nero, in his " Four Stages of Cruelty," is a St. Giles's charity-
boy ; and in a night-cellar here the " Idle Apprentice" is taken up for murder. Here
were often scenes of bloody fray, riot, and chance-medley ; for in this wretched district
were grouped herds of men but little removed from savagery. The Round-house
(Watdi-house) of St. Giles's was probably one of the last that remained : it stood in
an angle of Kendrick-yard, and its back windows looked upon the burial-ground of St.
Gilesi's Church ; it was built in a cylindrical form, like a modem martello tower, though,
from bulging, it resembled an enormous cask set on its end : it was two stories high,
and had a fiat roof, surmounted by a gilded vane, in the shape of a key. (See W. H.
Ainsworth's Jack Sheppard.)
Seven Dials was built temp. Charles II. for wealthy tenants. Evelyn notes, 1694 :
" I went to see the building near St. Giles's, where Seven Dials make a star fix>m a
Boric pillar placed in the middle of a circular area, said to be by Mr. Neale (the intro-
ducer of the late lotteries), in imitation of Venice, now set up here for himself twice,
and onoe for the state."
" Where fiuned 8t Giles's ancient limits spread,
An in-roil'd column rears its lofty head ;
Here to seven streets seven dials count their day.
And fh>m each other catch the circling ray :
Here oft the peasant, with inquiring iace»
Bewilder'd tmdges on from place to place ;
He dwells on every sign with stapid gaze,
Enters the narrow ai^'s doabtful maze,
Tries every winding court and street in vain,
• And doubles o'er his weaiy steps again."— Gat's T^vUm, book tt.
The seven streets were Great and Little Earl, Great and Little White Lion, Great
* A Middlesex magistrate said, in 1817 : " In the earlv part of my life (I remember almost the time
which Hogarth has pictured) etery houM* in St. OiUt'a, whatever else they sold, sold gin -, every chand-
ler's shop sold gin : the sitoatlon of the people was dreadfUL"
378 0JIBI08ITIE8 OF LONDON.
and Little St. Andrew^B, and Queen ; though the dial-atone had bnt tax &ce8, two of the
streets opening into one angle. The oolamn and dials were removed in June, 1773, to
search for a treasure said to be concealed beneath the base : they were never replaced,
bat in 1822 were purchased of a stone-mason, and the column was surmounted with a
ducal coronet, and set up on Weybridge Green as a memorial to the Duchess of
York, who died at Oatbmds in 1820. Tlie dial is now a stepping-stone at the adjcnn-
ing Ship Inn.
"Ererjbodj whose aflUn lead him to be oonitantlj numlnff abont London knows the dirtj
labyrinth of Seven Diala ; indeed, we might rather eay everrbodjr does not know it, for it takes a loofr
apprenticeship in pavement>polishing to become acquainted with its bearings and intricacies. The
respective gin*shops at its comers are the only guides. In other wildernesses of natural olqecta, instesd
of bricks and mortar, the sun and stars would serve to indicate points of the compass, but in Seren
Dials the sun and the stars are seldom visible. A heavy tarpaulin of fog. and smoke, and reeking odourB*
covers the entire district, shutting out the heavens oy a murky medium, under which increases and
multiplies the most unlovely race of the mammoth metropolis. They never get a lung-fUll of good
air. The only innocuous atmosphere they breathe is that which sometimes surges down over the roofs
of the many'peopled houses from tiie adiaoent brewery* and even that is artificuu." — Albert Smith.
Long Acre, the Seven Dials, and Soho, were Cock and Pie Fields, the resort of the idle
and dissolute, until, temp. William III., Mr. Nealo built upon the ground. Great Wild-
street is named from the mansion here of the Welds, the Dorset Roman Catholic family;
Bainbridge and Buckeridge streets, from their owners, men of wealth, temp. Charles II.;
and Dyott-street (now (George-street), from Sur Thomas Dyott, who died in the same
xeign, devising the property, since Dyott and other streets, upon the conation that it
should be appropriated to the same style of building, and the same description of in-
habitants that so long kept possession of it. Out of these very streets was formed the
Bookexy, removed for New Oxford-street. Here the Irish first colonized London, in the
reign of Queen Elizabeth; hence St. Giles's has been called Little Dublin; and iu
1687 ceUare are first mentioned in the parish-books as places of readencc.
On Sept. 27, 1841, died, aged 70. in the house iu which he was bom, Mr. Bobert Smith, 12^ Great St
Andrew-street, Seven Dials, a smith, possessed of £400.000 in fUnded, freehold, and leasehold property:
he built between 160 and 200 houses in the Hampstead-road.
M(mmouth (now Dudley) street, said to be named after the unfortunate Duke (who
had a mansion on the site of Bateman's-buildings, Sobo-square), was long noted for its sign-
board painters ; its dealers in amateur theatrical properties, singing>birds, old clothes,
and second 'hand boots and shoes ; bnt the " laced and embroidered coats in Mon-
mouth-street," mentioned by Lady Mary Wortley Montague, have become exchanged
for the sombre suits of our fashion. Here also were public-houses noted for fancy-dog
shows. Whole families and schools lived in the cellars. In 1797, many horse-shoes
nailed to the thresholds to hinder the power of witches, were seen in Moamouth-street;
in 1813, Sir Henry Ellis counted seventeen horse-shoes; in 1841 there were six; in
1852, eleven. Jews preponderate in this street, Irish abounding most in the lanes
and courts.
The modem St. Giles's is bounded north by the brewery in Bainbridge-street;
south by the brewery in Castle-street ; and extends from Crown-street on the west
to Drury-kne on the east. The literature of St. Giles's has long fixed its abode
in the Seven Dials ; and in Great White Lion-street, Mrs. Pilkington exhibited in her
lodging window, " Letters written here." Printing-presses, booksellers, stationers,
and circulating-libraries abounded here; Pitts and Catnach being the great ballad-
printers. {See Ballad-singii^g, p. 10.) One of their authors confessed to Mr.
Henry Mayhew —
" The litUe knowledge I have. I have picked up bit by bit, so that I hardly know how I have come
by it. I certainly knew my letters befurc 1 left home, ana I have got the rest off the dead walls and out
night previous to his execution/ I wrote CourvoiBicrs sorrowful lameniauon : x
called it ' A Woioe flrom the Gaol/ I wrote a pathetic ballad on the respite of Annette Meyers, l <ua
the helegy.too, on Bnsh's execution : it was supposed, like the rest^ to be written by the culprit himseir.
on the decline of his trade, and many political songs."— 3fomi»jr ChronieU,
*• The Eookery" was a triangular space bounded by Bainbridge, George, and High
8T. GILES'S. 379
streets : it was one dense mass of houses, through which curved narrow tortuous lanes,
from which again diverged dose courts — one great mass, as if the houses had originally
been one block of stone, eaten by slugs into numberless small chambers and connecting
passages. The lanes were thronged with loiterers ; and stagnant gutters, and piles of
garbage and filth infested the air. In the windows, wisps of straw, old hats, and lumps
of bed -tick or brown paper, alternated with shivered panes of broken glass ; the walls
were the colour of bleached soot, and doors fell from their hinges and worm-eaten
posts. Many of the windows announced, " Lodgings at 3c2. a night," where the wild
wanderers from town to town held their nightly revels. With such scenes the public
were fimiiliariased by Fierce Egan's lAfe in London (1820), upon our minor metropolitan
stages, where they excited as much curiosity as a romance of savage life. The Rookery
has, however, almost entirely disappeared; and in its place stands a block of "Modd
Houses for families," with perfect ventilation and drainage, and rents lower than the
average paid ibr the airless, dark, and fetid rooms of the old Rookery. Elsewhere,
lanes and alleys of squalid tenements have disappeared, and their site is now occupied by
the embellished lines of New Oxford-street. (See Rookeries ofLondonf 1850.)
"The degraded condition of the Seven Dials (says a Report of 184B) la notorious— vagrantiL thieves,
Bhan>erB, scavengers, basket-women, charwomen, army-seamstresses, and prostltates^ compose its mass :
infidels, ChariistL Socialists, and blarohemers exist there as in head-qoarters. In addition tothe street
traffic on the Sabbath, there are 150 shops then open in the streets. Lodging-hooses of the lowest and
dirtiest deseri^ion aflTord temporary shelter to the vagrant and the criminaL In the very heart of this
debased^md debusing locality is situated a Bagged School; its entrance-door in the extreme angle of
aa irregular, three-oomered yard— so ontnviting that few respectable persons have courage to ventoro
throngh it." The flagrant evil camiot be more formidably met; and the moral legoieration of the
distridt is thus rapidly progressing.
We rarely pass St. Giles's Church without reflecting upon the great changes which
have come over this locality within the last twenty years, by the sweeping away of the
greater part of that festering spot of criminal London, known as St. Giles's. And
when we look at the narrow gorge opposite the church, and remember that through it
formerly poured the rabble rout with the Tyburn cart, which halted hereabout, for the
condemned criminals to drink a bowl of ale, we say, with such a stream of pollution
how could St. Giles's be otherwise than a nestling-place of crime and wretchedness ?
It could once show its pound, its cage, its round-house and watch-house, its stocks, and
its whipping-post, and at one time its gallows. We have parted with all these terrors ;
and built here churches and chapels, schools, and reformatory institutions of every class.
Dr. Bu<^banan, medical officer of Health for the St. Oiles* district, tracing its history fh)m the dedica-
tion of a leper hospital to St. Giles in the twelfth century, shows that the district has always presented
points of interest to the students of hygienic science. From the thne of the extrliest census an excess in
the mortality of St Giles's hss been steadily conspicuous. The reason of this excess is mainly to be
attributed to the extreme density of the population, which has from one caose and another been greater
here than elsewhere since the days of Elizabeth. It was in St. Giles's that the Great Plague of 1066
first broke out, uid two-thirds of Ihe poorer inhabitants were destroyed in the rear. The district
declined flrom compantive opulence in we seventeenth century to the point of its lowest debasement,
delineated by Hoguth and Fielding ; thence again increasing in prosperity with the growth of Blooms-
bury. In spite, however, of this new association^ the entire district has maintained its evil pre-eminence
on the death-registers down to the year 1857. In the most crowded localities the rate of mortalitf was
uniformly the mghest. Measures have been adopted in St. Giles's to remedy this fatal condition of
" overcrowdinar." Among the results which have already followed the use of sanitary measures are:
fhmi mere dnunage improvements, the deaths from fevers and other zymotic diseases, in Dudley-street,
had fallen in 1868 to exactly one-half the number in 1867. In the whole district there were, in one year,
fewer deaths than the average by 120, although the year was much less healthful than its predecessor
to the metropolis at large, llie evils of overcrowding have been much abated by these clearances.
In the southern district of St Giles's there were on the ni^ht before the Census of 1861 was taken, 81
booses, not one of which had less than ten families sleeping in it wiUiout counting single men and women
at all. In a lodging-house in the same district of that parish 81 persons passed the night
In 1S31, there were, opposite each other, in George-street, St Giles's, two barbers' shops, whoso weekly
customers averaged 3000 : and In one of the shops was a man who frequently on a Sunday mowed 600
chins, the miyority being Irish labourers with beards of a week's growth.
The old map of St. Giles's and St. George's made in 1816, by Mr. Mawley, owing
to the great alterations in every direction since that time, having been rendered entirely
useless, has been re-drawn by Mr. George J. J. Mair, and handed over to the Vestry.
A plan of each property is shown, and at a glance is distinguished from the adjoining
properties by an arrangement of cross hatching ; a book of reference gives a further
description. The parishes contain 245 acres (SB of which are open ground in squares)^
and 4701 dwelling-houses.
380 CURIOSITIES OF LONDON.
QILTSPUR'STREET
WAS in Stew's time also called Enight-riders'-street, " of the knights and others
riding that way into Smithfield." The portion beyond the Compter prison was
originally Pie-oorner, " noted chiefly for cooks' shops and pigs drest there daring Bar*
tholomew Fair." {Strype.) Here the Great Fire of London ended j to commemorate
which, was erected agiunst a pablic*hoase (The Fortune of War) in Pie-cxnner, a
carved wooden figure of a boy npon a bracket, his arms folded npon his breaatiy and the
following inscription written from under the chin downward : " This boy is in memory
put up for the late Fire of London, occasioned by the sin of gluttony, 1666/' This is
no longer legible. The whole is engraved by J. T. Smith, and in Lester's HUulrct-
tiona, 1818. The houses that escaped the Fire on this spot were taken down in 1809-
On the west side of Giltspur-street is Cock-lane, the scene of " the Cock-lane ghosf '
imposture in 1762 : "the house is still standing, and the back room, where ' scratching
Fanny' lay surrounded by princes and peers, is converted into a gas-meter manufactory."
(Notes and Queries, No. 16.) An account of the detection of the imposture was
printed by Dr. Johnson ; a pamphlet describing the whole affair was written by Gold-
smith, tmd is reprinted in Cunningham's edition of Goldsmith's Works. Churchill, in
lus poem. The Ghost, satirized the hoax, and caricatured Johnson as a believer in it ;
which Boflwell has disproved.
QOa AND MAGOG.
^nPHE two Giants in Guildhall" are supposed to have been originally made for
•'- carrying about in pageants, a custom not peculiar to London ; for " the going of
the giants at Midsummer" occurs among the andent customs of Chester, before 1599.
Puttenham (1589) speaks of "Midsummer pageants in London, where, to make the
people wonder, are set forth great and uglie gyants, marching as if they were alive,"
Ac Agun, "one of the gyants' stUts" that stalks before my Lord Mayor's Pageants
occurs in the old play of the Dutch Courtezan. (Marston's Works, 1633.) Bishop
Hall, in his Satires, compares an angry poet to
" The crab-tree porter of the GuUdhall,
WhUe he hia frightful Beetle elevates."
In 1415, when Henry V. entered London by Southwark, a male and female giant
stood at the entrance of London Bridge; in 1432, here a "mighty giant" awaited
Henry VL ; in 1554, at the entry of Philip and Mary, " Corinsens and Gog-magog"
stood upon London Bridge ; and when Elizabeth passed through the City the day
before her coronation (Jan. 12, 1558), these two giants were placed at Temple Bar.
(F. W. Fairholt, F.S.A.) Jordan, in describing the Lord Mayor's P&geant for 1672,
notices as exceeding rarities " two extreme great giants, at least 15 feet high, that do
sit and are drawn by horses in two several chariots, talking and taking tobacco as they
ride along, to the great admiration and delight of all spectators."
Ned Ward describes the Guildhall giants in his London Spy, 1699 ; and among the
fireworks upon the Thames, at the coronation of James 11. and his queen, April 24,
1685, " were placed the statues of the two giaots of Guildhall." Bragg, in his Ob-
server, Dec. 25, 1706, tells us that when the colours taken at Kamilies were put up in
Guildhall, " the very grants stared with all the eyes thoy had, and smUed as well as
they could." (Malcolm,)
' Before the present giants inhabited Guildhall, there were two giants made only of wicker-work and
very great age, old Time, with the help of a number of City rats and mice, had eaten up all their entrail^
The dissolution of the two old weak and feeble giants gave birth to the two present substantial^^
m9j<»tio giants ; who, by order, and at the City charge^ were formed and f^hioned," by Captain Ric'^
Saunders, on eminent carver in King-street, Cheapeide ; and then " were advanced to those lofty ('ta*
tlons in Guildhall, which they have peaceably enjoyed ever since the year 1706." We quote this from
a vervraro "Gigantick History of the Two famous Giants in Guildhall, London," third edit. 1741, pub-
lished within Guildhall, when shops were permitted there. This work also relates that '*tbemB(
honour which the two ancient wiukcr-work giants were promoted to in the City, was ai the Bestoratioa
of King Charles II., when, with great pomp and majesty, they graced a triumphal arch at the end oi
OOODMAITS FIELBS-GEEY FBIAE8. 881
KinfT-street, in Chetpside." This wu before the Great Fire, which the Citj Giants escaped, till their
infirmities and the ''City rats" rendered it necessary to supersede them ; and the City accounts in the
Cbamberhun's Office contain a payment of 70/. to Saunders, the carver, in 1707.
The " Qigantick History" supposes the Gaildhall grants to represent Corinsens and
Gogmagog, in Oeoffry of Monmouth's Chronicle, in Milton's JEarl^ Histoty cf Britain,
and thus in a broadsheet of I669 :
"And such stoat Corkunu was, from whom
Cornwall's first honour, and ber name doth oomflb
For though he showeth not so great nor toll.
In his dimensions set forth at QMUdkaU,
Know 'tis a poet^ only a poet can deiine
A gyanf s posture in a gyant's line.
• • • • •
And thus attended bT his direfttl dog.
The gyant was (God bless us) Gogmagog."
.S^tfiS fiftUfl^. ir. p. 827.
"Each of these giants," says Archdeacon Nares (Olossary), "measures upwards of
14 feet in height ; the young one is heUeved to be Corinieus and the old one Gog-
magog," whence " Gk>g and Magog."
The present costumes of the giants are in rococo taste, as follow :
GoG. — ^Bod^-armonr h la Sowtaiiu. with a red scarf across the shoulder : plumed helmet, with the
CItj Dragon lor a crest; a sword by nis side, and in his hands a halbert, and a shield ensigned with a
spread eagle.
Maooo.— Body-armour and scarf as Gog : sword at side, bow and arrows orer his shoulder, and in
his hand a ** morning-star ;" his hair long and flowing, and encircled with a '* eouromu fktmntwr."
In 1815, the Giants were removed from the north side of the Hall, when Mr. Hone
examined them, and found them to be " made of wood, and hollow within ; and from
the method of joining and gluing the interior, are evidently of late construction ; but
they are too substantially built for the purpose of being either carried or drawn, or
any way exhibited in a pageant." (Hone, on Ancient Myrteries,) In 1837, the
dresses of the giants were renewed, thoir armour polished, &c. This year also, copies
of the g^ts, 14 feet high, were introduced in the Lord Mayors show : each walked
by means of a man within side, who turned the giant's face, which was level with the
first-floor windows.
G00DUA1P8 FIELDS
ARE described by Stow to have been, in his time, a farm belonging to the Abbey of
the Nuns of St. Clare, called the Minories ; *' at the which (Sum (says Stow) I myself,
in my youth, have fetched many a halfpennyworth of milk, and never had less than three
ale pints for a halfpenny in the summer, nor less than one ale quart for a halfpenny in the
winter, always hot from the kine, as the same was milked and strained." One Trolop,
and afterwards Goodman were the farmers; and next Goodman's son, who let out the
ground first for gfrazing of horses, and then for garden-plots. Strype (1720) describes
the Fields covered with Pescod or Prescot, Ayliffe, Leman, and Maunsell streets, the
initials of which names make the word palm ; these streets are mostly inhabited by
thriving Jews. Strype also mentions tenters for cloth-workers, and a roadway out of
Whitechapel in^o Well-close. In digging the foundations for houses about 1678, were
found a vast number of Roman funereal urns, some with ashes of bones in them,
denoting Goodman's Fields to have been originally a Roman burying-plaoe.
Qoodman's-stile, Goodman's-gardens, and Kosemary-lane, denote tMs niral district.
On the site of Leman-street was the New Wells Spa, now denoted by Well- yard.
{See Thsatbbs : Goodman's Fields.)
GREY FRIARS.
FI224, four of the Friars Minors, or Grey Friars, arrived in London from Italy,
and were first entertained in the house of the Friars Preachers, or Dominicans.
Afterwards, they hired a house in Comhill, of John Travers, then sheriiT, where they
made some small cellB, and continued until the following summer ; when the devotion
of the citizens enabled the Friars to purchase the site of their fiiture rendence near
Kewgate. Their first and principal benefiictor was John Iwyn, citizen and mercer.
382 CUBI08ITIJB8 OF LONDON.
who gave them some land and hoiues in the parish of St. Nicholas-in-the-Shambles, bj
deed 9th Henry III. Upon thig they erected their original building. The first chapd,
which became the choir of the church, was built at tiie cost of Sir William Joyner,
mayor of London in 1239 ; the na?e was added by Sir Henry Waleys, mayor daring
several years of the reign of Edward I. ; the chapter-house by Walter the potter,
dtizen and alderman (sheriff in 1270 and 1273), who also presented all the brazen pots
tat the kitchen, infirmary, &c. : the dormitory was erected by Sir Qregory de Bokes-
ley, mayor from 1276 to 1282 ; the refectory by Bartholomew de Castro^ another
citizen; the infirmary by Peter de Helyland; and the studies by Bonde, king of the
heralds. The convent was principally supplied with water by William, called from lus
trade the Taylor, and who served King Henry III. in that capaaty.*
A more magnificent church was commenced in 1301, and completed 1327 : ^xtk, the
didr was rebuilt, chiefly at the cost of Margaret of France, the second wife of King
Edward I., who assigned it for her place of interment ; and the nave was added from
the bene&ctions of John of Brittany, Earl of Richmond, and his meoe Mary, Countess
of Pembroke : it was 300 feet long, 89 feet wide, and 64 feet high; all the columns
and the pavement were of marble. Tn 1421, was added the library, *' furnished with
desks, settles, and wainscoting or ceiling," by Sir Richard Whittington, the celebrated
mayor in the rogn of Henry V.
On St. George's Day, 1502, the Grey Friars relinquished the <' London nuset," whidi
they had for some time worn, and resumed the undyed tohUe-grejff which had been
thdr original habit. On the feast of Saint Francis, July 16, 1508, the mayor and
aldermen were received with grand procession as founders, which custom continned
long after ; but not until 1522 did the convent provide a feast for the corporation on
that anniversary. In 1524, King Henry and Cardinal Wolsey personally visited the
house. In 1528, in the case of a prisoner who had broken away from the sessions at
Newgate, the convent asserted its right of Sanctuary, a privilege that could scarcely
be often put in requisition, as the much-frequented Sanctuary of St. Martin-le-Grond
was in the immediate vicinity. The Franciscans seem to have passively acquiesced in
the course of events : for, November 12, 1539, their warden, and twenty-five of his
brethren, signed and sealed their deed of surrender to the king, being convinced " that
the perfeccion of Christian livyng dothe not consiste in doine ceremouyes^ wering of a
grey ooatte, disgeasing our selffes after straunge fiissions, dokynges, nodyngs, and
bekynges, in gnrding our selffes wythe a gurdle full of knots, and other like papisticall
ceremonyec," &c
After the surrender, the house of the Grey Friars was not given up to immediate
destruction ; but remained unoccupied in the king^s hands, until 1544, when, with the
houses of the late Austin and Black Friars, it became a receptacle for the merchandize
captured at sea from the French ; every part of the Grey Friars Chnrch being filled
with wine : it was not, however, dismantled ; for in 1546 the " partitions" or screens
remained ; the altars, pictures, images, and pulpit; the monuments and gprave-stones;
the candlesticks, organs, and desks. .Subsequently, by the king's gift, the church of
the Grey Friars was to become the parish church of " Christ's Churbh within New-
gate ;" but the king dying in the same year and month, the altars, stalls, &c., were
removed, and the church reduced in length, the nave being rented to a schoolmaster
for 10*. per annum. All the tombs and grave-stones were sold fiir about hU ; and
Weever states there to have been buried in the church four queens,t four duchesses,
four countesses, one duke, two earls, eight barons, and some thirty-five knights ; in all,
663 persons of quality : the catalogue of the monuments is preserved, and is a veiy
valuable g^ealog^cal record.
These details are abridged principally from Mr. Nichols's Preface to the Chromcle
* In the chapter of the Benster, the main channel or pipe is traced under Newnte, throwhtlie
rivulet at Holbom Bridge, up Leather-lano (Liwome-lone), and so to the Conduitrheads in the fields.
t The Queens were— the foundreu of the church, Margaret, oonsort of Edward I. ; Isabells, consort
of Edward II. ; Joan, Queen of Scots, daughter of Edward II.; and Isabella, Quaenof Man. Besides
these, the church had received the heart of a fifth Queen. Aliauor, consort of Henry III. ; and also tlie
heart of King Edward II., deposited under the breast of liis queen's effigy. The catalogue is not, ho«^
ever, complete; for, during some excavalions on the site about 18H were found two ancient bscribea
grave-stones not in the Register : they commemorate a monk of Ely, and a supposed Italian merchoDti
and are preserved in the burial-ground of Christchurch.
GBUB'STBEET, 883
of ike Orey Friart of London, printed for the Camden Society (1852), from the
Kgister-book of the Fraternity. The history of the Grey Friars Convent next merges
into that of the estahlidhment of Christ's Hospital, which Mr. Nichols refers to Henry's
grant of the Qrey Friars' Hoose to the City, aided hy thdr snhscriptions, and not to
Bdward YI., who merely recognised the hospital which the dtizens themselves had set
ODfoofc.
" Moreorer, Chrlif i Hospital was not founded as a school : its otgeet was to rescne loang children
from the streets, to shelter, feed, and dothe, and latiUi, to eancate them— in short, to do exactly what
in lauv times has be<ni done by each individual iwrish Ibr the orphan and destitate oflbpring of the
V>ot"-IfiekoU.
The mat picture in the hall of Christ's Hospital is commonly referred to as contemporary evidence
or King Edward's share in the foundation. " lliis pivture is usually attributed to Holbein, but in error.
It 19 an amplification of Holbein's picture of the same subject which is at Bridewell Hospilal. That
picture contains only eleven figures, including the painter himself; the picture at Christ's Hospital has
iiiDeiy oru — -• - -^^ — i- «- ._*-_! 1_ .* — ^ v_4. -v_i — 1_ -* — i_i— j^*.. !_ — i^*.
ofeostome
theprinei
Some of the buildings of the andent convent, including the fratry and refectory,
were standing in the early part of the present centnry. The walls and windows of
Whittington's library were to be traced in a mutilated state on the north side of the
doirters. Even now, the southern walk of the friars' cloisters remains, and its pointed
arcbes and bnttremes may be seen irom the exterior. The western walk of the cloia-
t«ri was under the Qreat Hall, which was pulled down in 1827, as was Whittington's
library about the same time. The shield of Whittington, with a quatrefoil, was in-
serted in various parts of this building ; and a stone so carved has been preserved in
the moseum of Mr. E. B. Price, F.S.A., and is etched at the end of Mr. Nichols's
^nhce to the Ckromcle, {See Chbist'b Hospital, pp. 95-101.)
OBUB'STBEST,
pRIPPLEQATE, is now called Milton-street, "not after the great poet, as some
^ persons have asserted,' but irom a respectable builder so called, who has taken the
whole street on a repairing lease." Such was the statement of Mr. Elmes, in 1830, in
bu Tupographieal Dictionary ; but it is contradicted by the editor of Note* and
Qfteries (2nd S. is.), who asserts, upon the authority of " a gentleman who was present
at the meeting when the nomenclature was discussed, that it was named after the great
P%'t» from his having resided in the locality." Grub-street was originally tenanted by
^wven, fletchera, makers of bow-strings, and of everything 'relating to archery. It is
the last street shown in Aggas's map ; all beyond, as far as Bishopsgale-street Without,
l^ng gardens, fields, or morass. Afber the Great Fire, the Goldsmiths' Company met
^ prnh-street, temporarily, in the house of Sir Thomas Allen, g^rocer, and Lord Mayor in
1650. Here, before the (Uscovery of printing, lived the text-writers, who wrote all
*^ of books then in use, namely, A. B. C. with the Paternoster, Ave, Crede, Grace,
^1 and retailed by ataUoners at tiie comer of streets. In Grub-street lived John
J'oxe, the martyrologist.
"Many letters in the Harleian collection illnstrste the infloenoe of Foie at this time. They are
^o'oscd to him in Qmb-street, and must, therefore, though no di^ appears on theai, liave been wntten
«wr 1572. K. letter bum Foxe to ooe of his neighbours, who had so built his house as to darlien Foxe's
•4?^ J "> ^ curious as a specimen of religious expostulation, for an injury which possibly he could not
■aord to remedy by law."— Mr. Canon Townsend's L*fe </ John Fox; edit. 1641, p. V^
"> appears, however, very doubtful when Foxe went to Grub-street, and how long
h« resided there. He did not write there his Booh of Martyrs, published in 1563,
tnd the second edition in 1570. Here resided honest John Speed, the tailor and his-
U>nau, the father of twelve sons and rix daughters; there, too, lived Master Richard
^tb, whose amusing Ohitvary has been edited by Sir Henry Ellis for the Cainden
society — «< ^ person," says Antony Wood, " infinitely curious in, and inquisitive after
^ksi/'^ From this renowned and philosophic spot, celebrated as the Lyceum of the
Academic Grove, issued many of the earliest of our English lyrics, and most of our
future histories, and the flying sheets and volatile pages dispersed by such charac-
^ as Shakspeare's Autolycus; and the Grubean sages first published Jack the Giant
f *<^> ^ieynard the Fo», The Wue Men of Gotham, Tom Hiekaihrift, and a
i'^indred others. y «-«, ^ j
384 CURIOSITIES OF LONDON,
"Nor nmsfc we forget Henry Welby, Esq., "the Qnib-gtreet Hermit»" who lived here
fbrty-foor yean, during which he was only seen by his maid-servant, who ^ed Oct. 23,
1636 ; and Welby, in six days after, aged 84 : he owned a large estate in Lincolnshire^
bat betook himself to this seclosion in misanthropic resentment of an attempt made
upon his life by a younger brother. In the old print of the Hermit^ we see in tlie
distance boys flying kites in the fields adjoining his house. His diet was bread, water,
gruel, milk, and vegetables; and now and then the yolk of an egg. He passed his
days in most exemplary charity and piety. There exists a rare quarto Tracts entitled
The Phanix of these hUe Timet, showing ** the first occasion and reasons " of Welby's
seclusion, with Epitaphs and Elegies (the latter occupying several peges), by Shakerlcy
Marmion, John Taylor, the Water-poet; Thomas Hey wood, Thomas Brewer, &c^
1637. It has a fhlMcngth portrait, by W. Marshall, of Welby : the copy of this Tract
in Sir Mark Sykes's library, sold for ftL 5<.
In Grnb-street, Dee. 9, 1685, one Stockden, a victoaller, wu murdered by fonr men, three of whom
were revealed Id three successive dreams to the victualler's widow, and were tried, condemned, and
hanged ; the narrative attested and published '*by the Curate of Cnppl^gate 1"
During the Commonwealth era a larger number than usual of seditions and libellous
pamphlets and papers were surreptitiously printed. The authors of these were, for
the most part, men whose indigent drcumstanoes compelled them to live in the most
obscure part of the town. Grub-street, then abounding with mean old houses let out
in lodgings, afforded a fitting retreat for persons of this description. The offensive
term Chrub-street is thought to have been first applied to the writing^ of John Fox,
the martyrologist, who, as we have seen, lived in Qrub-street However, there are
various other conjectures, which it may be interesting to notice. The inquiry has been
cleverly annotated by Mr. Henry Campkin, F.S.A.
Possibly, from Grub-street being the booksellers' suburb of Aldersgate and Little
Britain it became the abode of small authors. In Goswell*street, to this day, several
old or second-hand booksellers keep shop. Arbuthnot speaks of " the meridian of
Grub-street ;" and Gay of " Grab-street lays." In the Taller, No. 41, the authors
are mentioned as fiuthful historians of an exercise at arms of the Artillery Company.
In the Spectator, No. 184, " one of the most eminent pens in Grub-street is employed
in writing the dream of the miraculous sleeper," Nicholas Hart ; and the orators of
Grub-street dealt very much in plagues. {Spectator, 150.) There was also a Ghrub^treet
Journal ; and Swift wrote a Grub-street Elegy on the pretended death of Partridge^
the almanack-maker, and Advice to the Grub-street Versifiers. The halfpenny news-
paper-stnmp duty of 1712, however, occasioned "the fall of the leaf," and utter rain
among Grub-street authors.
" Do yon know that all Grub-street is dead and grone last week? 5o more ghosts or murders now
Ibr love or money."— SWt/} to Stella, July 9, 1712, «i pauim.
The Memoir* qftke Onth^treet Society were commenced Jan. 8, 1730 (the year before the OenfU'
man'a Magasiau), and were published weeklv until the close of 1737. The avowed objects of the work
were to counteract the original Grabeans, who " made themselves most remarkabW influnous for want
of integrity, by wilfully publishing what they knew to be false :" and to repress *'the exorbitances of
Authors, Printers, Booksellers, and Publishers." The Society met once a week at the Popasus, in Grab-
street; and the principals of the staff were Dr. John Martin and Dr. Richard fiussel* {Baeiue and
Mmviue), the latter being secretary until 1735. The work was then conducted by a committee, bot was
dropped in 1737, after a struggle of six rears, eleven months, and two weeks : it was revi?ed as the
LUerare Courier of Qrubttreet, of whicn only a few numbers were printed.
In these Memoira, most of the personages of the Duneiad are unsparingly satirised, and the pro>
ductions of Kusden, Gibber, Concanen, Cnrll, Deunis, Henley, Ralph, Amalf, Theobald, Welsted. Ac,
are treated with great severity. The Memoin " meeting with enoooragement," says Sir John Hawkins,
" Cave prqjected an improvement thereon in a pamphlet of his own;** and in the following year ap-
peared the QenUeman'e Magazine,
Grub-street thus figures in the Duneiad .—
" Not with less glory mighty Dulness crown'd.
Shall take through Grub-street her triumphant round."
" Pope's «rrow8 are so shirp, and his slaughter so wholesale, that the reader's sympathies are often
enlisted on the side of the devoted inhabitanis of Grub-street. He it was who brought the notion of a
vile Grub-street beCoro the minds of the general public; he it was who created such assodations as
author and rags— author and dirt— author and gin. The occupation of authorship became ignoble
through his graphic description of misery, and the literary profession was fbr a long time deetroyed."—
W. M. Thaekeray.
* Dr. RuBsel subsequently settled at Brighthelmstone, and wrote a TreaUee om aea-Waier, advocat-
ing the practice of Sba-bathing, which laid the foundation of the unexampled prosperity of Brighton.
GRUB-STREET. 885
In his notes to the Duneicid, Bishop Warburton describes a libeller as " nothing bnt
a Qrab-street critic ran to seed." Dr. Johnson's friend, John Hoole,* received his
early instmction in Qrub-street, from his unde " the metaphysical tailor/' who used to
draw squares and triangles on his shopboard. (Boswell's Johtuon, vol. iv.)
Gmb-street was formerly " much inhabited by writers of small historiea^ dictionaries,
and temporary poems : whence any mean production is called Grub-street." (Johnson's
Dictionary.) The Doctor himself " was but a Chrub-street man, paid by the sheet,
when Goldsmith entered Grub-street, periodical writer and reviewer." (Forster's Life
of Goldsmith, p. 78.)
" Grub-street performances " had long been applied to '* bad matter expressed in a
bad manner, false confused histories, low creeping poetry, and grovelling prose,"
whether written in the Court or in the City, or elsewhere. Hence " a Grub-street
author " became a term of common reproach, and we remember it in frequent use ; this
however, has passed away with the change in the social position of men of letters, who
no longer resemble the literary hacks of the reign of George II. : but literature takes
rank with other learned professions ; and those authors who neglect it as a means of
subsistence are, in a twofold sense, foremost in their abuse of it.
However, Grub-street was not always tenanted exclusively by low pretenders to
learning ; for we read that James Whitelocke (Justice of the Eingp's Bench), who was a
Merchant-tailors' boy, and won honour at Oxford, went through a course of Hebrew
with a professor of that andent tongue, one Hopkiiison, who lived in Grub-street
"an obscure and simple man for worldly afiayres,but expert in all the left-hand tongs.**
" Great learned men," we are told, came to consult Hopkinsou in these languages, and
" among them no less a person than Lancelot Andrews.", (See notice of Whitelodce's
Liber Famelieus, e^ted by Bruce ; AthefUBum, No. 1612.)
Grub-street, now Milton-street, is noted for its great number of alleys, courts, and
backways, and old inn-yards : in Hanover-oourt was a house, temp, Charles I., tradi-
tionally the residence of General Monk. Opposite Hanover-court is a large building,
once the City Chapel ; in 1881 opened as a theatre, but with poor success. It next
became the City Baths ; facing which, in odd contiguity, were the City Soap Works,
established in 1712; the premises were burnt down in August, 1855,but have beoi rebuilt.
In one of the columns of Town and Table Talk, with whidi Mr. Peter Cunningham,
in years past, used to regale the readers of the Uluetrated London Newe, we find,
Jan. 27, 1855, the following piquant parallel of Grub-street with our day : —
" This week hu produced a remarkable proof tiutt our Newgate Last Dying Words and Confesaion
Poetry has not iinproyed, or altered, indeeo, in any way, lince the times of Dick Tnrpin and Governor
VitXL We have before as, while we write, the penny broadside which Grab-street has given as on the
cxeeotion of Bart|^^l^my. on Monday last We have the same artless wst of tellinr a story, with the
MOM roogh lines^ and still roagher rhymes, eommon to the Catnach school of Old Buley poetry. What
is still more remarkable, the venr cuts are the identical blocks of bygone times. The view of the
dangling marderer, of St. Sepalchre's Charoh, and Newgate itself, is one that has done like duty
on many other hanging occasions. The female costume of the cat is that in voffue long before 'to
use Mr. Thackeray^ expression) Plancns was consul. Stranger still, the cut which represents the
naardorer shooting Mr. Moore, is the actual ballad-block of Bellingham shooting Mr. Perceval in the
lobby of the House of Commons 1 We may yet see it reproduced on an occasion of the same kind. The
identical wood-out of Tarltom, the fifimous down, who druw tears of delight firom the eves of Queen
SUnbetb, was in use in Grub-street between 1680 and 1820, or nearly two centuries and a naif."
One of the most noted Grub-street traffickers was Curll, for whom the notorious Mrs.
Thomas (Corinna of the Dunciad) got up the absurd story of young Jeffreys and the
funeral of the poet Dryden, the groundlessness of which was folly exposed by Malone
■ome sixty years since; and Sir Walter Scott alludes to it in Life ^ Dryden as "a
memorable romance." It formed one of Curll's " Grub-street pamphlets."
The first use of the term Grub-street in its offensive sense, was made by Andrew
Marvell, in The Rehearsal Transposed : " He, honest man, was deep gone in Grub-
street and polemized divinity." " Oh, these are your Nonconformist tricks ; oh, yoa
have learnt this of the Puritans in Grub-street." " I am told that preparatory to
that, they had frequent meetings in the City ; I know not whether in Grub-street,
with the divines of the other party." Pope calls its versifiers " the Grub-street Choir."
* Father of the Rev. Samuel Hoole, who was bom in a hackney-coach, which was conveying his
mother to Druzr-lane Theatre to witness the performance of the tragedy of Timantket, written by her
hoiiband. Mr. oamud Uoole prayed with Johnson in his last illness : he long kept as memorials the
chair in which the Doctor osnally lat, and the desk opon which he mostly wrote his BawibUr, Mr. Hools
died in March, 1839.
0 0
386 CUBI08ITIE8 OF LONDON.
QUILDRALL {THE).
AT ihe north end of King-street, Cheapade, >8 the "Town-hall" of the Gij of
London, where the principal Corporation bomneBS is transacted, and its magnificent
hospitality exercised. The first Alderman's Bery or Conrt-hali was a low and mean
boilding, in the street named therefirom, Aldermanbury, which occurs in a deed of the
year 1189 : " the Courts of Maior and Aldermen were held here until the new Guildhall
was built. I myself (says Stow) have seen the mines of the old court-hall in Alder-
manbery-streete." The first entry which Mr. Horace Jones, the City architect-, was
able to find, is in the year 1212, the 14th of John. It is in a roll of the Hustings
Court, which was held here. The edifice must have been a very large building,
from the number of persons stated to have been present. " This was, undoubtedly,
the original Qiuldhall spoken of by Fabyan, Qrafton, and Stow : the old Beny Court,
or Hal continued, and the Courts of the Mair and Aldermen were continually holden
there. They had an entrance in Aldermanbury. This we will call the first GuildhalL"
The second Guildhall, according to the Corporation records, was built in 1326, the
20th Edward II. Part of the crypt of this building exists, though much defiiced by
fire ; it extends beneath half the present hall, and acjj oins the present crypt, being divided
by a stout brick walL We might reasonably infer from this evidence that the second
building was a pert>, or oocupi^ a part, of the present site. In Aggas's map, 1560,
there is a representation of the old entry from Aldermanbury. There was no entiy
for carriages, or even an opening into Gresham-street, as now.
We now come to the present, or third Guildhall, " begun to be builded new," says
Fabyan, in the year 1411, the 12th of Henry IV., "by Thomas Enolea, then
Haicr, and by his brethren the Aldermen ; and the same was made of a littie cottage
and a large great house, as it now standeth." The cost was defrayed by benevqifences,
fees, fines, and amercements for ten years. The Mayor's Court and Chambers were
added, and a stately entrance-porch, " beautified with images of stone." Divers alder-
men glazed the windows, as appeared by tbdr arms painted on each. Among the
individual contributions was the making and glazing of " two louvers," for which Sir
W. Hanyot, Mayor, g^ve 40L The hall was twenty years in building; the kitcheu
was built " by procurement" from the companies, of Sir John Shaw, goldsnith. Mayor,
knighted on Bosworth Field; the kitchen was first used for dr^mng Sir John's
mayoralty banquet, in 1601 ; and he " was the first that kept his feast there;" " since
which time the Mayor's feasts have been yearly kept there^ which before time were
kept in the Taylors' Hall and the Grocers' HalL" "NicholaB Alwin, grocer. Mayor,
1499, deceased 1506, gave by his testament for a hanging of tapestrie to serve for the
principal dales in the Ghiildhall, seventy-three pounds 6t, Sd." In 1614-15 was
erected a new Council Chamb^, and Record-room over. Among the early enter-
tainments given in the Guildhall, was that of 1357, when John, King of France,
and Edward the Black Prince, were received and entertained most sumptuously by the
Mayor and citizens. May 24. Again, in 1419, King Henry V. was entertained by the
Corporation at the Guildhall, when, it is reported, the Mayor, Sir Richard Whittington,
burnt the bonds for money lent to King Henry, to the value of 60,000/. Here, 1483,
June 24^ the Duke of Buckingham attended with the Mayor and Sheri£S^ by oonunand
of Richard Duke of Gloster, and addresring a great multitude of Livexymen assembled
in the Common Hall, pcnnted out to them the bastardy of King Edward V., and
nrged the superior daim of Richard Flantagenet, as depicted in Shakspeaxe's
Richard IH^ act iii. scene 6.
Qlo, Go after, after, Cotiein Backhig^bun,
The Major towards Gnild Hall hies him in all post;
There, at the modest vanta^ of the time,
Infer the bastardY of Edwora's children :
Tell them, how £dward put to death a citizen,
Onlj for sarinff— he would make his son
" Heir to the Crown.*' Meaning, indeed, his Hoosc^
\Vhich, by the sign thereof was termed so.
And again}—
Biut. I go; and towards three or four o'clock
Look for the news that the Guild Hall affords.
GTJILBKALL. 387
1813. Here took place the trial and condemnation of Anne Askew for hereby, before Bishop Bonner ;
flbe was bnmt at the stake, in 8mithfield. 1547.— Trial of the Earl of Sarrej, and his eonviGtion of high
treason. 1658, Not. 13.— Trial and condemnation of Lady Jane Orey and her hnsband. 1654^ AprilT7.
— Trial and aoqnittal of Sir Nicholas Throgmorton, for participation in Thomaa Wystt's rebellion against
Qaeen Mary. 1608, March 28.— Trial and conviction of the Jesnit Garnet. (Oonpowder Plot.) 1642^
Jan. 6. — Charles I. attended at a Common Council, and cUdmed their assistance in apprehending
Hampden and other natriots, who had taken shelter in the City to SToid arrest Daring the QtU War
and me Commonwealth, the Qaildhall was ttie arena of many a parotic moyement. In Pepys's Diary,
11th Feb. ie5»-«0, he records the reception of Oen. Monk at the Guildhall. After the ab(Ucatlon of
James II. the Lords Parliament assembled here, and declared for the Prince of Orange.
In the Great Fire the oak roof was entirely destroyed, and the principal front
mnch injured. " That night (Tuesday Sept. 4, 1666), the sight of Guildhall was a
fearfall spectacle, which stood the whole body of it together in view for several hours
together, after the fire had taken it, without flames (I suppose because the timber was
of such solid oake), in a bright shining ooale, as if it had been a pallace of gold or a
great building of burnished brasse." The roof was an open timber one^ springing
from the capitals of the clustered columns, which subsequently bore guideron shields with
the arms of the twelve Great Companies. After the Fire an additional story was raised
to the lofty pitch of the original roof, the ceiling covering this being flat and square
panelled : eight circular-headed windows on each side were added. These reparations
have been attributed to Sir Christopher Wren. Elmes acknowledges " the modem
Toof and ceiling of Guildhall" to be Wren's, but " built over it in haste and for imme-
^te use, and evidently a temporary covering." (See Wren and hit Times, p. 266.)
Hie present mongrel front of Guildhall was erected by Mr. George Dance, the City
orcMtect^ in 1789.
The chief approach to the Hall was by a two-storied porch, far in advance of the main
building. It had been much altered in the reign of Elizabeth or James L It had, on
each nde of the entrance, two ornamented niches, and two flgures in other niches, with
flgnres in the npper story. These figures were taken down by Dance in 1789, and they
]ay in a cellar until Alderman Boydell induced the Corporation, in 1794, to^ permit
them to pass into the hands of Thomas Banks, the eminent sculptor, who held them in
great estimation as works of art ; and after his death, in 1809, they were purchased by.
Mr. Bankes^ M.P. These flgures have been placed in the screen at the east end of the
hall. The crypt beneath is the finest and most extensive now remaining in London.
Its height is 13 feet from the ground to the crown of the arches. In 1851 the stone-
work was rubbed down and cleaned, and the clustered shafts and capitals were re-
paired; and, on the visit of her present Migesty to the City, July 9, 1851, a banquet
was served to the Queen and suite in this crypt, which was characteristically decorated
for the occasion. In the chambers and offices all sorts of styles and decorations of all
periods prevail — poor Gothic and painted ceiling, and marble sculpture, and mean
wall-deooration ; and the floors are of various levels. The interior of the Great Hall,
in coarse imitation of the nave of Winchester Cathedral, was also poor and mean. For
more than 150 years did the dtizens bear the reproach of having their noble hall dis-
figured by the incongruous upper story and flat roof. A pointed roof was modelled,
bat was proceeded with no further. With increaang public taste the anomaly became
more and more condemned. The covering was dUapidated and unsightly, and its
removal was long pressed upon the Court cf Common Council, chiefly by Mr. Deputy
liott, F.S.A., as ofiiensive to architectural and archseoiogical taste. At length, a
oommittee of the Court of Common Council, to whom the subject had been referred,
reported in fiivour of a series of extensive improvements, involving the entire reoon-
stmction, on a new plan, of most, if not all, the offices of the COTporation. First,
however, it was resolved to proceed with a new roof fbr the Great Hall ; and the
committee of the Corporation set about this great work, and determined npon an open
oaken roof, with a central louvre and a tapering metal spire.
The roof and other restorations were conflded to Mr. Horace Jones, the City archi-
tect, with the assistance of Mr. Digby Wyatt, F.S JL, and Mr. Edward Boberts, F.S.A.
The new internal cornice of the roof was oonunenced, with some ceremony, on thff
22nd day of June, 1864^ when the members of the Improvement Committee, the
chaplain to the Lord Mayor, and the principal officers of the Corporation, assembled on
the roof, and laid the first stone.
c 0 a
388 CURIOSITIES OF LONDON.
Tb« new roof and its general constraction is as nearly as possible in aooordance with
the period in which the Hall was originally bnilt ; and with a drawing, still extant, of
the old roof as it existed before its destmction in the Great Fire ; a number of windows
by which the interior of the building was lighted from both mdes, and which had been
dosed for generations, have been reopened with excellent effect ; and, by the removal
of an unsightly coating of plaster and cement, all the characteristic outlines of the
internal arclutectnral embellishments have been brought prominently out. One of the
sonthem windows has been filled with stained glass, designed by Mr. F. HaUiday, and
executed by Lavers and Barraud : the subjects refer to the g^nting of charter, coining
money, Wat Tyler, and a Boyal tournament. The new roof is dt oak, with rather a
high pitch : it is lighted by sixteen dormers, eight on each side, and from the centre
springs a louvre for the purposes of light and ventilation, as well as ornament, and it
wUl have a lofty spire. The following are the dimensions :-»The fair average width
of the Hall is 49 feet 6 inches. The cluster of shafts project about 2 feet on ^ich side,
and their height to the springing of the arch ribs is 34 feet. The height from the present
pavement to the nnderside of the ridge is 89 feet. The total length is 152 feet, and
there are eight bays and seven principals. The length of the collar between the queen
post is 29 feet, and was cut out of timber about 2 feet 8 inches square. One pecu-
liarity of the construction of the roof is that there is a double lining, one of 2-inch oak
and another of 1^-inch deal : on this latter the slates are laid.
In a BiUory of London by Allen and Wright, is a note stating that a Col. Smith,
formerly Deputy-C^ovemor of the Tower, had a painting, representing London after
the Great I^e, in which about one-third of the roof of GuUdhall appeared standing,
showing a gable-roof; and that in Hollar's View of London, oirea 1647, the roof
appears with two lanterns arising from It.
At each end of the Hall is a larg^ Gothic window occupying the whole width, the
arches resting on short oolumns, and retaining perfect their ridi tracery. The upper
compartments are filled with painted glass (restored and modern) of Uie royal arms,
and stars and jeweU of the Garter, Bath, Thistle, and St. Patrick, in the east window ;
and the City arms, supporters, &c. in the west window. Beneath the eastern window,
under canopies, and at the back of the spot where the ancient Court of Hustings was
holden, are statues of Edward VI., Queen Elizabeth, and King Charles I. from the
Guildhall chapeL By an entry in the City record^ the figure of Charles I. originally
occupied a place in the Boyal Exchange.
In the angles at the oppomte end of the hall, on lofty octagonal pedestals, are the
celebrated colossal figures of the giants Gog and Magog, sometimes called Gogmagog
and Corineus. {See p. 380.) They were placed in their present position during the
alterations of 1815, having fbrmerly stood on each side of the steps leading to the
upper rooms, these steps bdng where now is placed Beckford's monument, which then
stood against the great western window.
This old entrance was very picturesque : on each nde of the steps was an octangular
turreted gallery, balustraded, for the hall-keeper ; each surrounded by iron-work palm-
trees, supporting a balcony and ornamented three-dial clock, and a resplendent gilt
sun underneath. The flanking giants, in their singular costume, gave the whole an
unique character. At the sides of the steps, under the hall-keeper's offices, were two
dark cells, or cages, in which unruly apprentices were occasionally confined, by order
of the City Chamberlain : these were called LiUle Scue, for a boy could not stand up-
right in them. In 1706, Queen Anne made a present to the City, to be hung in the
hall, of 26 standards, 63 colours, and a kettledrum, a part of the spoil from the field of
Bamilies ; these have been long removed. There are several sculptured monuments
erected at the expense of the Corporation — to Admiral Lord Nelson, by J. Smith, 1810,
inscription by Sheridan; Alderman Beckford, Lord Mayor in 1762 and 1769, by
Moore ; the Earl of Chatham, by Bacon, 1782, inscription by Burke ; the Bight Hon. W.
Pitt, by Bubb, 1813, inscription by Canning. Upon Bcckford's monument is the speech
which was long believed to have been addressed by him to George III. on his throne.
GiflTord {Ben Jomon, vol. vi. p. 481) denies this ; and Isaac Reed aaserts that "Beckford did not utter
one Bjllablo of this speech. It was penned by Uorne Tooke, and by his art put on the records of the
City and on Beckford'a statue, as he told me, Mr. Braithwaitc, Mr. Severs, &a, at the Athenian Club."
GUILDHALL. 889
The style of these monninentfl (which cost 3000 uid 4000 gnineaa each) is ill adapted for a Tudor
hallp and they rank low as works of art : for example, in that to Nelson, the only indication of its objost
ts a small medallion of the hero : in Beckford's, the decline of the City and Commerce Is represeuloa bj
figures in a drooping state ! — a literal allegory.
The memorial group of the great Dake of Wellington, by John Bell; central sisitae
of the hero, and two emblematic figures ; is in better taste.
The Oaildhall will contain between 6000 and 7000 persons. Here have been held
the Inauguration Dinners of the Lord Mayors since 1501. Charles I. was feasted
here, in 1641, with a political object, which fiuled. Charles II. was lUne times enter-
tained here at dinner.
Charles II. dined with the dtixens the year that Sir Robert Viner was mayor, who getting eUtcd
with oontinoaUy toasting the royal family, grew a little fond of his miyjesty. " The king understood
Tery well how to extricate himself in all kinds of difficulties, and, with an hint to the company to avoid
ceremonv, stole off, and made towards his coach, which stood readir for him in Gaildhall-yard. But the
mayor liked his company so well, and was grown so intimate, that he pursued him hastily, and catching
him &st bv the hand, cned out with a vehement oath and accent, ' Sir, you shall stay and take t'other
bottle !' The airy monarch looked kindly at him over his shoulder, and with a smile and graceful idr
(Ibr I saw him at the tim^ and do now) repeated this line of the old song : —
' Ho that is drunk is as great as a king,'
and immediately returned back and complied with his landlord." — 8p«etaior. No. 462.
From 1660, with only three exceptions, our sovereign has dined at Quildhall on Lord
Mayor's Day, after his or her accession or coronation. The exceptions were James II.,
who held the City Charter upon a writ of quo warranto at his accession ; George IV.,
who was rendered unpopular by his quarrel with his Queen ; and William IV., who
apprehended political tumult. But George IV. (when Regent) was entertained here,
June 18, 1814, with Alexander, Emperor of Russia, and Frederick- William III., King
of Prussia, when the banquet cost 25,0002., and the value of the plate used was
200,000/. : [on that day year was fought the Battle of Waterloo.] On July 9, 1814^
the Duke of Wellington was entertained at dinner in Guildhall. The banquet to
George III. cost 6898/., when 1200 guests dined in the Hall; that to Queen Victoria,
Nov. 9, 18S7, cost 6870/. ; and an evening entertainment to her Majesty, July 9, 1851,
to celebrate the Great Exhibition, coat 5120/. 14f. 9(/., being 129/. 5^. 3c/. less than the
anm voted : invitations, 1452. Here, in 1831, were entertained the members of the
Liegiskture, and others who promoted and supported Parliamentary Reform ; in 1837,
her present Majesty the Queen, on her accession to the throne; in 1838, the foreign
Ambassadors and other distinguished personages, in celebration of her Majesty's coro-
nation ; in 1855, the Emperor and Empress of the French were fdted here (the Lord
Mayor raised to the baronetcy as Sir Francis Graham Moon) ; in 1863, the Prince
and Princess of Wales, shortly after their marriage.
The Guildhall is magnificently decorated for royal cntertiunments, when the sovereign
IS seated beneath a state canopy at the east end. The lighting of the vast Hall with
gas is by stars, mottoes, and devices of 6000 or 7000 jets in the large windows, filled
with planking and sheet-iron, to prevent accident by fire : a stupendous crystal star, and
a Prince of Wales's plume in spun glass, nine feet high, aro superb insignia ; the archi-
tectural lines of the edifice were marked out with 5000 gas-jets ; and from the roof hung
two painted chandeliers, each 12 feet diameter ; the whole fiood of gaslight exceeding
that of 46,000 wax*candles ; this being the former mode of lighting : the present is
by gas chandeliers, of appropriate design.
The Dinner on Lord Mayoi^s Day is a magnificent spectacle : the Lord Mayor and
bis distinguished guests advance to the banquet by sound of trumpet ; and the superb
dresses and official costumes of the company, about 1200 in number, with the display of
oostly plate, is very striking. The Hall is divided : at the upper, or hustings tables, the
courses are served hot; at the lower tables the turtle only is hot. The baron of beef
is brought in procession from the kitchen into the Hall in the morning, and being placed
upon a pedestal, at night is cut up by " the City carver." The old Kitchen, wherein
the dinner was dressed, was a vast apartment ; the prindpal range was 16 feet long
and 7 feet high, and a baron of beef (3 cwt.) upon the gigantic spit was turned by
band. There wero 20 cooks, besides helpers ; 14 tons of coals were consumed. Some 40
turtles are slaughtered for 250 tureens of soup ; and the serving of the dinner requires
about 200 persons and 8000 plate-changes. Next morning the fragments of the Great
Feast are doled out to the poor.
390 CURIOSITIES OF LONDON.
Tho following, from Pepys's Ditny, is tbe earliest aoconnt we have of the Lord
Mayor's Inauguration Dinner : —
" 29th Oct. lfi83.~To GaUdhall, and np and down to see the tables ; where ander ererj salt there
was a bill of fare, and at the end of the table the persons proper for the table. Many were the tables,
hut none in the Hall but the Mayor's and Lords of the Privy Conncil that had napkins or knives, which
was veiT^ strange. I sat at tiie Merchant Strangers' table, where ten good dishes to a messe, with plenty of
wine ofall sorts : bat it was very nnpleasing Uiat we had no napkins nor change of trenchers, and dzsnk
oat of earthen pitchers and wooden dishes.^'
The Guildhall Inangoration Dinner, indnding wines, usually costs abont ISOO^.,
which is supposed to be paid out of the public money ; but the City contribute only
200/., the remainder being paid half by the Ijord Mayor and half by the two Sheriffik.
The procesnon costs about 300/., and the decoration of the hall 800/^ which is similarly
apportioned.
The Ctmrt of SuHinfft held in the Guildhall, was the Saxon Folkmote : the word
Hustings in &ixon signifies the Souse of Catuet, a general Council or Court. The
Court is considered tibe highest Court of Judicature t the preading judges, the Ixnd
Mayor and Sheriffs. The proceedings are similar to the County Courts, with the
addition, anciently, of the enrolment of deeds and wills, &c. The following entriea
are from the EngUeh Chronicle, and show the uses the Hall was put to in the holding
of this Court in past ages : —
In 1441 Maister Roger and Master Thomas were tried in the GaOdhalle of Londoon for tresons and
sorcery. On the 18th of November, in the same year, Miister Roger BoUvngbrooke was arreymed for
tresonn agens the Kvngis persons, and thereof, by XII men of Londoun, he was founds guilty. Ixnrd
Bay (SayeT was brought out of the Tour unto Guyldehalle to be tried, Saturday, July 4^ 1450.
The following entries are from the Diary of Henry Machjn. Citizen and Merchant Taylor of London : —
** In 1650-1, the xiiij day of Marche was rayned at the Yeld-halle a C (hundred) mareners for robyng
on the see, and the Captayne, belying a Skott, was cared to Nugate the same day, and certen cast (con-
demned). In 1562, the v^ day of June, the Duke of Northumberland and dvvers of the Kynges Consell sat
at Yeld-hall to hear certain causys, and toke up my Lord Mayre and his brodume for vetell, because ha
lokyd not to it, and for sellyng of the same, and oder causys. In 1668, the fiurst day of December, was
nynyd at the Yeld-hall, Master Grymston, Captayn."
The Entrance, — ^The Hall is approached by a porch consisting of two divisions, formed
by an arch and columns crossing in the centre ; the wall on either side is subdivided into
smaller compartments, with tracery and quatrefoil turns. The groined roof, with
stone ribs springing from the sides, are intersected in the centre with sculptured bosses
with various devices of the arms and bearings of Edward the Confessor.
The Crypt, already described on page 801, has, at each intersection of tho groins, a
boss, bearing shields with the arms of Edward the Confessor, the City arms, well-
sculptured roses, &c.
The Chapel, — This ancient appendage to the Guildhall was founded by Peter Fan-
love, Adam Francis, and Henry Frowidc, citizens, and dedicated to St. Mary Magdalen
and all Saints, and called London College, in 1299. In the records of the Corporation
of the dat« of 1326, there is an account of timber and lead granted for the building,
and in 1379, the surplus materials not used in the building of the Guildhall were given
for the same purpose.
1413.— In Holinshed's Ckroniele. vol. ill. p. 66, there is the following entry :— " He (Hichard Whit'
tiugton) also builded for the ease of the Maior of London, his brethren, and tne worshipftil citixens, on
the solcmne days of their assemblie, a Cliapell a4jo!ning to the Guildhall, to the intent that before th^
entered into any of their worldlie a£faires, they should begin with prayer and invocation to God for his
sssiBtance."
In the mavoralty of John Welles, grocer, the Chapel was rebuilt, 1431.
From Machyn's Diary.— "The vj day of May (1654) was a goodly evyng song at Teldhall Colege, by
the Masters of the Clarkes and ther felowshyppe of Garkes, with syngyng and playing, as youe bars
hard. [The morrow after was a great Mass at the same place, by the same fraternity, when every Clerk
offered a halfpenny. The Mass was sung by divers of the Queen's Chapel and children.] The xxvg day
of May (1556) was the Clarkes Prossessyon from Teldhall College, and a goodly Masse he hard (or has
been heard), and evere Clarke havying a crosse and garland, with C. (hundred) shewers borne, and the
whcttcs (waits) playing round Chepe, and so to Ledynhall (unto St. Albn Chyrche) (Ethelburga), and
there they putt off their gayre (gear), and there was the blessyd Sacrament borne with torche light
abowt, and fh>m thens unto Barbur-hall to dcner. The tomb of Sir Thomas Kneesworth, late Mare of
London, repaired by John Bullok, xvu of June, 1662."
This Chapel was not so much injured by the Great Fire as to lose its architectural
features. It consisted of a main and side aisle ; the latter, to the north, not having had
any regular communication with the former. Tbe west had a large window with tracery
entire, and beneath it a handsome pointed arch entrance, under a square architrave,
having sculptured capitals with quatrefoils and shields with arms in the spandrelB^
GUILDHALL. 391
agaiiist the windows were three niches, large and heavy. They contained good fignies
of King Edward VI.; Queen Elizaheth, with a Phoenix under her; and of Charles I.»
treading upon a glohe, sculptured hy Stone; the spaces of wall on each side, and under
the window, were ornamented with panels. At the Dissolution of the religious houses
the Chapel was purchased hy the Mayor and Commonalty, and used as the Court of
Bequests. It was taken down in 1822 to make way for the present Courts of Law :
the window is preserved in the Chamberlain's office ; there are remains of the crypt>
with the stairs leading to the Cbapel.
North of the Hall is the dmrt of JSxohequer, formerly the King's Bench Court. It
was built immediately after the Grreat Hall (temp, Henry VI.) for the Mayor's Court,
still held here. Some of the vrindows were glazed by the executors of Whittington,
and emblazoned with bis arms : Stow describes among the glass, "the Mayor pictured
sitting in habite, party-coloured, and a hood on his head ; his sword before hhn, with
an hatte or cap of maintenance; the common dearke and otber officers bare-headed,
tbor hoodes on their shoulders." This Court bad at the back of the judges' seats
paintings of Prudence, Justice, Helicon and Fortitude. Here is a large picture by
^lanx of Paris, presented by Louis-Philippe, representing his reception of an address
from the City on his visit to England in 1844 ; Humphery, mayor, and many other
IKJTtraits. Here also are portraits of Oeorge III. and Queen Charlotte, by Ramsay;
and William III. and Queen Mary, by Van der Voort.
I^ Common- Council Chamber contains, in a niche behind the Mayor's chair, a
marble statue of George III., by Chantrey, the inscription by Alderman Birch, in
whose mayoralty, 1815, the statue was erected. On the right Is a whole-length portrait
of Queen Victoria, by Hayter; and left are half-lengths of Caroline, queen of
George IV., and her daughter the Princess Charlotte, both by Lonsdale. Here are the
ibllowing busts : Queen Victoria and the Prince Consort, J. Durham, sculptor ; Prince
of Wales, by Marshall Wood; H. B. Beaufoy, F.R.S., by Calder Marshall; Thomas
Clarkson, B. L. Jones, and Major-General Sir H. Havelock, by W. Behnes; T. H.
Hall, by J. Durham ; Lord Nelson, by the Hon. Mrs. Damer ; Granville Sluurp, by
Chantrey; the Duke of Welling^n, by Turnerelli.
North side: Portraits— Chamberlain Clarke, by Lawrence; Aldermen Waithman and Wood, by
Patten ; Nelson, by Beecb^ ; Lord Denman, by IMrs. Pearson. Paintlnn — ^Defence of Gibraltar ana
bnmhig of gnn-boats, 1782, by Paton ; Bodney's Victory, 1782, by Dodd: and Sir William Walworth
killtaiff Wat Tyler, in Smithtield, by Northoote. East side : Siege of Gibraltar, by Copley, father of Lord
LrndhTirst : it coyers the entire side, and was painted by the artist ridsed on a platform. South sides
Alderman Boydell, by Beechey ; Lord Heathfleld, by R^olds; Mnrder of Rizzio by Opie; Lord Com-
wallie, by Copley; Defiance and Belief of Gibraltar, by Paton; Bodney breaking the French line, 1782^
l^Dodd.
Here are also three plctoreeof monlcipal ceremonies and festivities : the Civic Oath administered to
Alderman Newnham, as Lord Mayor, on the Hustings in the Guildhall, Nov. 8, 1782, with 140 portraits f
the Lord Mayor's Show by Water— boats by Paton, fignres by Wheatlcgr; and the JKoyal Entertainment
in GoUdhall, June 18, 1814, by Daniell, B.A.
The Court of Aldermen is profusely gilded, and painted with allegorical figures of
the City of London, Prudence, Justice, Temperance, and Fortitude, by Sir James
Thomhill, who was presented by the Corporation with a gold cup, value 225/. 7«.
The ChcMiberlain'e Office is on the north-east : he is keeper of the City cash,
regaUa, and trust-money ; admits^ on oath, persons to the freedom of London, and
registers and enrols all apprentices, adjudicates between them and their masters, and
has power to commit either to Bridewell. The Chamberlain bears on state occasions
an ancient st«ff, surmounted with a jewelled crown : this sceptre is presented with the
City keys, mace, and sword, on the entry of the sovereign by Temple Bar ; and is
fbrmally surrendered on the yearly re-election of the Chamberlain, November 18.
There is neither record nor tradition of a defisdcation in his office in upwards of 700
years. The Chamberlain's ancient seal is a royal crown, lion passant, the City sword,
and two keys : legend, SigUlum Camera Londini,* In the office hangs the picture of
the Battle of Towton, painted by Alderman Boydell ; and here, where the City appren«
tioes sign their indentures, suggestively hangs a fine set of Hogarth's prints of the
* Wilkes was Chamberlain from 1779 until his death in 1797 : he was suceeded by Alderman Bichaid
Clark, who, when sheriff, took Dr. Johnson to a Judf^es' dinner at the Old Bailey ; the judges being Black-
stone and Eyre. Mr. Clark, when 16, was bitroduced to Johnson, whom Im last met at the Essex Held
dob. Chamberlain Clark died hi ** Cowley's House," at Chertaey, in 1831, aged 92.
892 CUBI08ITIE8 OF LONDON.
Indcstrioas and Idle Apprentices. In the Chamberlain's Parlour are duplicate
oopiee of the freedoms and thanks voted to diBtingoished personages by the City ; they
are fine specimens of penmanship, mostly by Mr. Tomkins» whose portrait, by Bey-
nolds (and said to be his latest picture), hang^ here. In the Waiting Soom, among
the pictures are Reynolds's portrait of the great Lord Camden, and Opie's Murder of
James I. of Scotland.
A large folding screen, painted, it ii said, br Copier, represents the Lord Mayor Beckford deliTcrinir
the City sword to &.ing Geonre III. at Temple Bar; interesting for its portraits and record of the cos-
tumes of the period ; presented by Alderman Salomons to tbe City in 1860. Here, too, is a large picture
of the battle of Agincoort, painted by Sir Robert Ker Porter, whni 19 years of age, assisted by Mr. Mol-
ready, sobseqaently B.A., and presented to the City in 1808.
In the Library, rich in books, tracts, and MSS. relating to the City, and first opened
in 1828, are portraits of several aldermen ; and a Museum of relics discovered at Old
London Bridge, the Royal Exchange, and elsewhere In the City. {See Museums.)
In the CourU of Common Flecu and Queen's JBench, built upon the site of Guildhall
Chapel, by Montague, in 1823, are portraits of the judges who justly adjudicated the
disputed properties of the citizens after the Great Fire. These and other pictures were for-
merly hung in the Guildhall : in stormy political times they were occasionally injured; for,
in the London Gazette of 1681, the Lord Mayor and Court of Aldermen advertised a
reward of 500Z. for the discovery of the person who offered an indig^ty to the portrait
of the Duke of York (James II.) in the Guildhall, to show their deep resentment at
that " insolent and villanous act."
In the portraits of Sir Matthew Hale, and other ladges of his time, hong up In the Courts at Guildhall,
they are represented with beards and skoll-caps; but these portraite are not mach better painted than
the portraits of the Scottish Kings at Holyrood, and may not be entitled to rank higher as authorities.
The i>owdered wig gradually degenerated into an ordinary flaxen one; even that oegan to be left off
about 1826; and since the death of Mr. Justice Littledale, not a single judge is distinguishable in a
drawing-room ft-om the ordinary mob of gentlemen by his dress. Buhops are d^enerating in the
same manner.
Two new Law Courts have been added to the Guildhall ; and a portion of the
ancient crypt has been appropriated as a kitchen ; the site of the old kitchen being
that of the north court. There being no external elevations to these new courtai, the
roof is of thick glass in ironwork frames.
Guildhall and the offices and buildings connected therewith, the Mannon House, the
Sessions House, and other Corporation property are insured against fire in amounts not
exceeding in the whole the sum of 200,000/. The several amounts expended upon the
Guildhall and the buildings connected therewith, from the year 1800 to 1865,
distinguishing the cost incurred in temporary buildings and erections upon spedal
public occasions, were as follow. 72,101/. Is. hd. expended on repairs and alterations;
32,928/. 19«. lid, upon fittings upon Lord Mayor's-dny ; 42,882/. 8«. Id. for special
entertainments ; and for law courts the sum of 25,911/. 5«. 6(/., making a total of
178,323/. 14«. id. expended upon the Guildhall during the above period.
SACKNjET-COACSSS.
COACHES were first let for hire in London in 1625, and were hence called hackney-
coaches; that they were named from being first employed in conveying the
dtizens to their villas at Hackney, is a popular eiTOr, though supported by Maitland.
The term is said to be from the French haquen^, a slow-paced or ambling nag ; as,
"he had in his stable an hackenay." (Chancers Bomaunt of the Mose.) But
haquenie " docs not include the idea of hiring. To hack is to offer a thing for common
sale or hire; and a coach (along with the horses) kept for hire is a hackney-coach."
(David Booth's Analytical Dictionary, p. 304.) Hackney-coaches were first kept at
inns, but soon got into the streets, as appears in Strafford^s Letters, April, 1634 : —
''One Captain Bailey hath erected some foar Saekney-eoaekn, pat his men in livery, and appointed
them to stand at the May-PoU in the Strand (where St Marr's Church now is), giving them instructions
at what rates to carry men into several parts of the town, where all the day the^ may be had. Other
hackney-men seeing this war, ther flocked to the same place, and perform their joameys at the same
rate. So that sometimes there Is twenty of them together, which disperse np and down ; that they
and others are to be had everywhere, as watermen are to be had by the water-side.'*
A successful rival, however, soon appeared ; when Sir Saunders Duncombe, upon
petition to Charles I., stated the streets to be greatly encumbered with the coaches
HALL8 OF THE CITY COMPAJnUS. 893
and that in many parts beyond sea people were much carried in chain that are covered,
whereby few coaches were used among them ; and the king granted Dnnoombe " the
sole privilege to nse» let, or hire a number of the sud covered chairs for fourteen years ;"
the fare being 1«. per mile. Yet the hackney-coaches had so increased in 1635, as to
be considered a nuisance by the Court, and to be limited by Star-chamber. In 1637,
however, Charles granted a special commission to his master of the horse to license
fifty hackney-ooadimen in London and Westminster, each to keep twelve horses, for
about 200 coaches, which Sir William Davenant describes as ** uneasily hung, and to
narrow that he took them for sedans on wheels." Their rates were fixed by Act 14
Charles II. In 1694 they were limited to 700.
Hackney-coaches were tint excladed flrom Hyde Park in 1606, when "eeversl persons ofqaality
havinfr been affronted at the Ring by some of the persons that rode in hackney-coaches with masks, and
complaint thereof behig made to the Lord Justices, an order is made that no hackney-coaches be per-
mitted to go into the sud Park, and that none presume to appear there in masks." {Fott-Bojf, June 8,
1QB6.) And the exclusion continues to this day.
By coach was the usual mode of sight-seeing : — " I took (Toiler, June 18, 1709) three
lads, who were under my guardianship, a-rambling in a hackney-coach, to shew them
the town ; as the lions, the tombs. Bedlam,*' &c. Gay's TVivia glances at this period :—
" When on his box the nodding coachman snores.
And dreams of fhncy'd fkres.
In 1771 the number of coaches was fixed at 1000, and their fares were raised ;
again increased in 1799, and the office removed to Somerset House 1782; since 1833,
their number has not been limited. In 1814 hackney-chariots were introduced ; and
in 1820 cabrioleU, or eabt. The double-seated hackney-coach was usually a cast-off
carriage, often to be seen covered with the emblaidbned arms of its former noble owner;
and the driver was notoriously " rude, exacting, and quarrelsome." Both coaches and
chariota were drawn by a pair of horses; but the cab dispenses with one horse, and the
fiire is thus reduced half. The cab (from Paris) was at first' open and chaise-like,
with a pair of wheels, but very liable to accidents, which soon begat a host of " safety"
improvements. The cab, or sedan-like coach-body upon four wheels, often reminds one
of a seventeenth-century-coach, such as we see sculptured on Thynne's tomb in West-
minster Abbey.
BALLS OF TRF CITY COMPANIES.
FOREMOST in vastness and antiquity is the Guildhall of the City of London, just
described. The latter affords the best idea of the Companies' andent hall^ the
majority of which were destroyed in the Great Fire. They were the guild-halls, from
the gUd-hallas of the Anglo-&ixons, wherein wares were exposed for sale, as in most
towns of the Middle Ages.
The andent Hall mostly had an open Umber roof ; whence the Fishmongers', and
probably other Companies, suspended the properties of their pageants. In the centre
of the roof was a louvre, or lantern ; at the sides were Gothic windows, filled with
painted glass ; and beneath hung gorgeous tapestry, which, in the Merchant-Tailors'
Hall, contained the history of tiieir patron, St. John the Baptist The floor was
strewed with rushes ; the tables were planks placed on tressels ; a reredos, or grand
screen, crossed the apartment, hiding the entrances to the buttery, larder, and kitchen ;
** the minstrailes" were in a gallery aloft : and there were temporary platforms and
stages for players. Other passages branched to the wine and ale cellars, and to
the chambers. Annexed to the buttery were the bakehouse and brewhouse; the
kitchen passage was guarded by a spiked hatch, and was well stored with " spittes,
rakkes» and rollars." There is also named in Brewers' Hall, temp, Henry VI. "the
tresaunce," or cloister between the great kitchen and the hall ; and an " almarie cup-
board," fbr the Company's alms (apparently broken provisions), in the g^reat kitchen.
The Companies possessed halls from the date of their first charters, under Edward
III. The Merchant-tulors, however, had a hall at the back of the Red Lion, in
Basng-lane, long before they bought thdr Hall in Threadneedle-street, in 1331. The
Weavers, Bakers, Butchers^ and other andent guilds, must also have had haUs in very
remote times : these, and other meeting*plaoes, particuLirly of the Minor Companies^
were probably, at firsts but mean buildings^ u tiie oripnal Guildhall in Aldermanbory i
394 CURIOSITIES OF LONDON.
and before the fonnd^Dg of tiieir halls, the Companies met at yarions great mansions in
the City, lent for the purpose.
In their Halls the Twelve Great Companies gave grand feasts to varions monarclis,
who enrolled themselves as members. In the Interregnam they were the meeting-
plgoes of the (Government Commissioners ; by the Parliamentary commanders they
were converted into barracks; by the puritanical clergy into preaching-places ; and by
successive Lord Mayors into temporary mansion-houses. In Elizabeth's and the
Stuarts' reigns, every Hall was oblig^ to have also a granary and an armoury ; and
the Company's almsliouises ac|joined the Hall, that the alms-folk might be ready to join
in processions and pageants.
The donations of plate to the Companies included drinking-cups, gallon-pota, basins
and ewers, large silver salvers, goblets and salts of " sylver, sylver-guylte, parcel-gylte, or
sylver-white :" and to the entry of the name and gift was usually attached an ejaculatary
prayer for the donor, as ** Ih'u be mercyiull unto his soul/' " God send him long life
and welfare," &c.
Liveries are not mentioned to have been worn by any of the Companies before temp.
Edward I. ; the hood, evidently copied from the monk's cowl, was an indispensable
appendage; and the Company's "trade oomzances" were embnndered conspicoously on
the dress.
The Companies wer& at first, half-ecdenastieal bodies. "This demi-religions character eridenccd
itself in the mode of their fomidation : in their choosing patron-sainta and diaphuns : founding altars
to SQch saints in the ohnrches they held tiie adTowson o^ and in varioos othor wiqrs. None of the trada
assembled to form fraternities, without ranging themselves under the banner of some saint ; and, if |ms-
sible, they chose a saint who either bore a relation to their trade, or to some other analogoos cireum-
stance. The Fishmungers adopted St. PAer, and met at St. Peter's Church ; the Draiwrs choee the
Virgin Marv, mother of the 'Holy Lamb/ or fleece, as the emblem of that trade, and appropriately
assembled, in like- manner at St. Marr Bethlem church, Uishopsgate; the Goldsmittis* patron was St.
Bunstan, reported to have been a brother artisan; the Merduint-Tailors, another branch of the draping
business, marked their connexion with it by selecting St. John Baptist, who was the harbin^r of the
holy Lamb, so adopted by the ropers ; and which, as being anciently cloth-dealers, still constitutes the
crest of that Society.
" In other cases, the Companies denominated themselves fhitemitles of the particular saint in whose
church or chapel they assembled, and had their altar. Thus, the Grocers called themselyes the fraternity
of St. Anthony, because they had their altar in St. Anthony's church; the Vintners, ' the fhUemity of
St. Martin,' from the like connexion with St. Martin's Vintry church; and the Skinners and the Saitersv
both societies of Corpus Christi, from meeting, the one at the altar of that name in St. Lanrenoe Poultry
church ; and the other at Corpus Christi chapel, in All Saints, Bread-street"— (Herbert's HiH. qf tJke
Twelve Great Livery C(mpan%e$t vol. i. pp. 666-7.) Nor until after the Beformation could the fhttemi-
ties be regarded as strictly secular.
In their processions to church the Companies were joined by the religious orders in
there rich costumes, bearing wax torches and unging, and frequently attended by the
Lord Mayor and great dvic authorities in state. Funerals were as religiously observed
by them ; and to celebrate with becoming grandeur the obsequies of deceased memben,
almost the whole of these fraternities kept a state-pall, or hearse-doth, a few of which
are preserved to this day ; members of superior rank were followed to interment by the
liord Mayor and civic authorities ; and it was customary to provide funeral dinners, with
sums left by the deceased, or sent after death by the relatives to their Halls : such sums^
temp. Elizabeth and James, were generally not less than 201.
" The great Sir Philip Sidney, who was publicly buried at St. Paul's Cathedral hi 1587, was a brotiier
of the Grocers' Comiiany, and was attended by that liverv in all their formalitieB, who were preced«l by
the Lord Mayor, aldermen, and sheriffs, ' rydinge in purple.' The number of the Grocers' livery amounted
to 120, and are represented in a print of the procession by De Brie.*'— Nichols's jPrcoresses of Quean
SUtabeih, il. pp. 19-26.
At the f\ineral of Sir Thomas Lovell (of Shakspeare memory, at Holywell Nunnery, Shoreditch),
"the gentlemen of the inns of court (Sir Tnomas built Lincoln's Inn fine gateway), with oertcyn erti/U
qfLoudoHt" received the corpse at the convent gate, accompanied by the Mayor and aldermen, who, on
the body bchig placed under the hearse, or canopy, encircled the rails, and repeated the Deprqfkmdit.
Meanwhile, " there was a drynlcynge in all the cloister, the nones, halls and parlors of the said place.**
Tlie Election Feasts iu the Halls, temp. Henry IV., were partaken of by the first
nobility, and even princes, besides the City dignitaries ; when the luxuries included
the mighty "baron" or "ribbes of beef," "fhimentie with venison," brawn, fat swan,
boar, conger, sea-hog, and other delicacies stored above the salts* whilst "sotilties" of
* The ealt, or salt-cellar, was a magnificent piece of plate, forming, in the Middle Ages, a division
between the upper and lower part of the table. Mr. Fosoroke believed one, in the Tower of London,
and of silver-gill, to belong to the Mercers' Company. To be seated above the salt was a mark of
honour; and our ancestors seem often to have placed persons below it in order to mortify them.
EALL8 OF THE CITY COMPANIES. 895
the Compony^B patron, trade, or saint, recalled the origin of the fraternity ; and there
were '* voyds of spice-hread, ypocras, and comfits," to the renewed "noise" (music) of
the minstrels, or waits, or the higher merriment of the London clerks " playing
some holy play."
Thus, 6th September, 1419, 17 Henrr Y., we have the followlDg Election-dfainer of the Brewers' Ck)m-
pany, ihe "Ordmaire de la Feste," in Norman-i^ench.
Firti GmrM.— Brawn with mostard ; cabbages to the pottage : swan standard ; capons roasted ; great
custards. (For the " fiit swan" and the cygnet, the citizens had their annual swan uppings.)
Second C!tmiv«.— Venison in broth, with white mottreids; cony standard; partridges wltii cocks
roast«d ; leche lumbard, doncette with little pamense.
Third Count.— "P&aia in sjrop; great birds with little ones together; fritters, paynpnfb with a cold
baked meat.
The cost of another Election Feast of the Brewers, aj>. 1426, was 382. 4*. 2d., a Tery large snm, con-
sidering that money was thea of five times its present TaJue. Melted fat, or lard, was then used where
we now nse batter, then- a great dainty, as was also sngar, the place of which was supplied by honey.
Fnrmenty, tbejkrmejdaria of Dncange, was wheat boiled in milk, snch as is eaten to this day. ''Aroma-
tising " the Hall with the nrecioos Indian wood, sanders, and Brazil wood, by fumigation, greatly
enliTcned the table. Not only did widows, wives, and single women, who were members of the Company
join the feast; bat from the Qrooers' ordinances of 134B, "bretherene" ooald introduce their wires or
oumpanions, and damsels ; indeed, a wife was not to be excosed, onless " wuUade, on graue dan^ani, H
pm «o deliverance.**
The Election Ceremonies took place after the feast, when the newly-elected principals
were crowned "with garlondes on their hedes." Then followed the "loving cup,"
as is still the custom ;* and next the minstrels and players ; the minstrels including
harpers, who played and sang in the intervals of the others sounding their comets,
shalma, flates^ horns, and pipes. The dramas then in fashion often consisted of single
subjects ; and this taste continued till long after the establishment of the regular
theatres. In the Guildhall Uhrary is an original licence from the Master of the Revels,
in 1662, authorizing " Qeorge Bfdley, mnsitioner, and eight servants, his company, to
play for one year a play caHled Ncmh's Flood;" these eight persons personating the
patriarch and his family.
The Companies' Barges also formed stately pageants. Thus, at the coronation of
the queen of Henry VII., she was attended "from Greenwich" hy water, by "the
Maior, shrifes, and alderman of the citie, and divers and many worshipful commoners,
chosen out of evesrj crafte, in their liverays, in barges freshly furnished with hanners
and stremera of silk, rechely heaton with the armes and hagges of their crafbes." In
the same reign, among " a great and goodly nombre of barges," either fastened up, or
" roweing and skym'ying in the riv* and Tbamys," was, " first for the cittie of London,
the Mayer's harge, the sherevys* harge, aldermens dy'rs hargs ; and then the crafte of
the cylie, having their standards and stremers, w' ther conizances right weel dekkyd,
and replenyshid w' w'shipfull company of the dtizens."
The earliest Triomph, Pageant, or " Biding," connected with the trades, occurred in 1296, on the
retom of Edward L from his victonr over the Scots, when "every citizen, according to their Beverall
trades, made their eeveral ehew." They also joined in coronation processions, as that of Henry IV. in
1309, when Froissart states Cheapside to have had seven fountains running with red and white wine ;
the different Companies of London, led by their wardens, were clothed in their proper liveries, and bore
banners of their trades. Chancer describes an idle City apprentice of his day :—
*' When there any ridinge were in Chepe,
Out of the shoppe thider would he lepe ;
And till that he had all the sight yseln,
And danced wel, he would not come agaixx,*'
From this sketch of the early Halls of the Companies, and their ancient state and
observances, we proceed to the City Halls of the present day, commencing with the
• " The Lowng Cup** is a splendid featare of the Hall-feasts of the City and Inns of Court The
Cup is of silver, or ulver^gilt, and is filled with spiced wine, immemorially termed "sack." Imme-
diately after the dinner and araee, the Masters and Wurdens drink to their visitors a hearty welcome;
the cup is then passed rouna the table, and each guest* after be has drunk, applies his napkin to the
mouth of the cup before he passes it to his neighbour. The more formal practice is for " the person
who pledges with the loving cup to stand up and bow to his neighbour, who, also standing, removes the
cover with his right hand, and nolds it while the other drinks ; a custom said to have originated in the
precaution to keep the right, or ' dagger-hand,' employed, that the person who drinks may be assured
of no treachery, like that practised by Elfrida on the unsuspecting King Edward the Martyr, at Corfe
Castle, who was slain while drinking. This was why the loving cup possessed a cover."— ^. IT.
FairkoU, FJS^
896 CURIOSITIES OF LONDON.
HALLS OF THE GREAT COMPANIES,
nr THBHK obdes of psecesenct.
1. Mebcebb' Hall. — The Mercera is generally referred to as " the most ancient
of all the great leading companies." But several are of gfreater antiquity, although
the Mercers Company takes precedence of rank.
Charter i Charter
Order of Preoedenoe. granted.
No. 1. Mercers • • . 1383
No. 2.Grooen 1346
No. 4. Fiehmonfcers ••••••. 1384
No. 6. Ooldsmitha >
Order of Precedence. granted.
No. 19. Baker ]3>'7
No. 26. Saddlers 1280
No. 26. Carpenters 1319
No. 42. Weavers 1164
No. 6. Skinners S ^*" | No. 88. Pariah Clerkt 123S
Mercers' Hall, Cheapside, between Ironmonger-lane and Old Jewry, oocapi&i the
aite of the ancient hospital of St. Thomas Aoon% whereon the Mercers first settled in
London, hence called <* the Mercery." On the site of the present entrance to the
Hall from Cheapside stood the house of Gilbert Becket, father of Becket, Archbishop
of Canterbury; after whose murder his sister Agnes and her husband built
here a chapel and hospital, destroyed in the Great Fire. Soon after were built upon
the same site the, present Hall and Chapel ; the front of the latter, by Wren, now
only remains: above the ornamented doorway are cherubim mantling the Virgin's
bead, the cognisance of the Company ; the front has also figures of FaiUi, Hope, and
Charity ; the whole in stone kept in handsome repair.* The chapel is at the extremity
of the ante-chapel; over which, upon Doric columns, is the hall, handsomely wains-
coted and carved : here are held the Gresham Committees. Among the paintings are
original portraits of Sir Thomas Gresham and Dean Colet ; and a fiuiciftil portrait of
Whittington. Among the Mercers' Trust-estates are St. Paul's and Mercers' Schools.
Of the Mercers' Company there haye been sereral kings, princes, and nobility ; and to 1708, ninety-
eiffht had been lord mayors, and one as early aa 1214; Bichard II., who granted the first charter m
1393, was a mercer; as were also Whittington and the illnstrioos Gresham. Among the Company'i
documents are a curious illustration of Whittington ^hig (ordinances of his college). andjportraiiB of
the first three wardens. In 1513, the Mercers possessed Conduit Mead, now covered by New Bond-
street, which, had they retained, it would more than quadruple tiie value of all their present esutes.
(Htrbtrt.) Amonff their property is the north side of Long Acre (about 8i acres), and the a4JaccD£
streets, including Mercer-street; In 1660, "part of the possessions of Charles Stuart, late King of Eng-
land, for which the warden and company tlien paid to the Crown ISf . ^. per annum. There is scarcdy
a single meroer in the Company at ihe present day." {Serheri.) Sir Baptist Hicks (founder of the
Campden fkmily) was a great mercer in Cheapside, who supplied the Court when James I. and "his
bare Scotch nobility and gentry came in :" he built the first mcks's Hall, and was one of the first dtizoa
that after knighthood kept their shops.
The Mercers' Company lend money to liyerjomen, or freemen, without Interest, anon approved
security. The Companv also established the first insurance ofllce for lives, in leos. {Hation.} The
Golden Lectureship is in their gift. William Caxtou, England's first printer, was a liveryman of this
Company.
The Mercers' Election-Cup, of early sixteenth-century work, is alver-gilt, decorated
with fretwork and female busts ; the feet, flasks ; and on the cover is the popular
legend of an unicorn yielding its horn to a maiden. The whole is enamelled with coats
of arms and these lines :—
" To elect the master of the mercerie hither am I sen^
And by Sir Thomas Leigh for the same intent"
The Company also possess a silver-gilt Wagon and Tun, covered with arabesques and
enamels, of sixteenth-century work. The Hall was originally decorated with carvings;
the main stem of deal, the fruit, flowers, &c., of lime, pear, and beech ; theae becoming
worm-eaten, were, long since, removed from the panelling, and put aside^ but they
have been restored by Mr. Henry Crace, who thus describes the process :
" The carving is of the same colour as when taken down. I merely washed it, and with a gimlet
bored a number of holes in the back, and into every projecting piece of frait and loaves, on the face, and
placing the whole in a long trough, 16 inches deep, I covered it with a solution prepared in the following
manner :— I took 16 eallons of linseed oiL with 2 lbs. of litharge, finely ground, 1 lb. of camphor, and
2 lbs. uf red lead, which I boiled for six hours, keeping it stirred, that every ingredient might be per-
fectly incorporated. I then dissolved 6 lbs. of beeswax in a gallon of spirits of turpentine and mixed
the whole while warm, thoroughly together.
" in this solution the carvmg remained for twenfy-foor hoars. When taken out, I kept the &ee
* In a shop In the porch of Meroers* Chapel, Guy (founder of Guy's Hospital) was apprenticed to a
bookseller in 1600; and the honse^ rebuilt after the Great fire, waa rented by Gqy, then a master-
bookaellor.
EALL-GB00EB8: 897
downwards, that the oil in the hole mifrht soak down to the ftkoe of the carringr, and on cutting some of
the wood nearly 9 inches deep, I found it had soaked through ; for not any of the dust was blown out,
us 1 considered it a yaloable medium to form a substance for the fhtnre support of the wood ; this has
been accomplished, and as the dust became saturated with the oil, it increased in bulk, and rendered the
earring perfectly solid."
2. Gbocsbs' Hall, Orocers* Hall-conrt, Poxiltry — anciently, " Conningshop-Iane,"
ue, «»ny-shop-lane, from the sign of three oonies (rahhits), hanging over a poulterer's
etaU at the lane end — is the third edifice built for the Company, upon " voide groimde
sum tyme the Lord Fitzwalter's halle :" the first was completed in 1428, in a large
garden, and had an ancient turret, probably part of the Fitzwalter mansion, and one of
the oldest buildings within the City walls. This Hall was let " for dinners, funerals,
ooanty feasts, and weddings ;" in 1641, " the Grand Committee of Safety" removed its
sittings from Guildhall here; Cromwell and Fairfax were feasted here by the Grocers;
and at the Bestoration, Gen. Monk. In the Great Fire, the roof and woodwork of the
Hall only were destroyed ; the old walls were then newly roofed, and in 1668-9, the
parlour and cUning-room were rebuilt by Sir John Cutler, four times master of the
Company, who passed him " a strong vote of thanks/' and his statue and picture, thus
proving^ Cutler to have been the reverse of the miser described by Pope, whose satire,
bowerer, has reached far beyond the Grocers' g^titude. The old Hall, which had
** a Gothic front and bow-windows," was renovated, in 1681, by Sir John Moore, who
kept his mayoralty at Orrocers' HaU, and paid the Company 200/. rent ; and it was let
for the same object till 1735. The Bank of England held their courts here from 1694
to 1734. The present Hall was built upon the ancient site between 1798 and 1802*
(T. Leverton, architect), and thoroughly repaired in 1827, when the statue of Sir John
Cotlcr, weather-beaten in the garden, was renovated, and removed into the Hall; and
the garden-front was enriched with the arms of the Company on each side their orest^
and a loaded camel, emblematic of the ancient conveyance of the grocer's commodities.
The Hall is spadous, and has a music-gallery : here are Cutler's portrait, a fine picture;
portraits of Sir John Moore and Sir John Fleet : and on the staircase are the Com-
pany's arms, painted on glass by Willement. The Grocers munificently support various
free schools, almshouses, exhibitions, &c, ; and the gifts for loans to poor members
amount to 4670/.
The Grocers' Company, originallr Pepperers, next united with the Apofheearies, was incorporated
by iklward IIL, in 1486, as '*the MTstery of Grocers :" among other privileges, they possessed the
management of the Kings' Beam, at the weighing-hoose. Charles II. and William III. were masters of
the Company; and among the eminent Grocers were the Dake of York, afterwards James II.; Geone
Monlc, Duke of Albemarle; and Sir Philip Sidnev, at whose flmeral the Company rode in procession. Li
the reign of Uenrr IV., twelve aldermen weie of the Grocers' Company at the same time. The Arater^
nity also boasts of the patriotic Sir John Philpotj John Chnrchman, who founded the Custom House;
Thomas Knoles, who began the Guildhall; Bur John Crosby, of Crosby House; Sir William Lazton,
ibauder of Oundle Sohooi : and Laurence Shirefi; of Bugby; besides the vilified Sir John Cutler. The
Companv sold their plate m aid of the defence of the City hi the Civil Wars, and were filmed for their
loyal ana costly pageants. In the Great Fire, they lost nearly all their propeity, except a few tenements
in Grub-street, when they assembled in the torret>house in tiieir garden : their Hall was once seized for
debt, in part ftom loans made to the City: but the Grocers, like lihe rest of the Companies, recovered
their position before the Revolution of 1^ ; and in theyear after, William became sovereign master of
the Grocers. By a charter of Henry VI., confirmed by Charles I., the wardens of the Company, or their
deputies, oould, like modem excisemen, enter druggists', apothecaries', and confectionen', as well as
grocers' shops, and impose fine^uid even imprisonment, for aeoeitsj always seizing the spurious articles.
The statutes of the ancient Popperers (mentioned toiip. Henry II., and probably a guild long before)
exist among the Cltv archiroa. The Grocers first existed as a sort of dub. Twenty-two Pepperers in
Sopcrs-lane, Cheapeide (now a part of Queen-street), on the 12th of June, 1346, after dinner, elected two
of their number wardens, and appointed a chaplain to celebrate divine offices for their souls. Every
member at the foast sniMcribed Is.* to pay for it^ and contributions were then made towards the
chaplain's salary.
llie Grocers met in 1345 and 1346, at the town-mansion of the Abbot of Bnry, in
St. Mary Axe, now Bevis Marks; in 1347, ''at theabbofs place of St. Edmund;" in
1318, "at the honse of one Fulgeman, called the Ryngdehall," near Garlickhytbe;
irhere* and at the hotel of the abbot of St. Cross, they continued till 1383, when they
took np their temporary residence in Bncklersbury, at the Comets' Tower, used by
Edward III. as his exchange of money and exchequer. The hall is spacious, and has a
music gallery ; the feasts of the Company being noted for their orchestra.
* The garden was then nearly severed in half for enlarging Prince's-street. For this latter slice^
which l^ost the Grocers 911, 17«. 6d. in 1433, the Company received from the Bank of England more than
20,auu/. {Serbtrt.)
8d8 CURIOSITIES OF LONDON.
Mr. John Oougb NichoU, in a oommanicatioh to Notes and Queries, Second S, xL
p. 352, notes Orocen* Hall being used for the Lord Mayor's Feast in 1682 : —
"Thii was the flnt tlm^ as ftr m I haye teen, that the City feaeters deserted Gaildhall on Lord
HayoT^s daj. It appears to be attributable to the perturbed state of politics. It is remarkable that
Qrocert' Hall should be preferred to that of the Merehant-Tajlors, althougn the Lord Mayor [Sir Willimm
Pritchardi belonged to the latter Company, and the spadoasness of their hall is well known. The
choice of Grocers' Hill was probably directed by its oonyenient situation. It was used annually for the
ftast firom this time [1682] till 168S, with a ibw exceptions, when the Kinff came or was expec^^d. In
1086, and two following years. Skinners' Hall was employed. Then Gaildhall till 1703 ; in which, and
the two following yean, and perhaps more. Drapers' Hall was adopted."— Xom^oii FagtanU, 8to«
U31. p. 118.
'^i liaye not means readfly at hand to traoe ftuther the loealitJ of the Lord Mayor^s ftast after 1705;
hot at the period preyioosly in qaestion, in the reigns of Charles II., James IL, and William, GrroeenT
HaU was in fact the mansion>hoase, or residence ofthe Lord Mayor during his year of office. In 8omt
Aeeount qf Vu Qrootrf Oompantf, priyately printed by John Bei^. Heath, Esq., F.B.S. and S.A., it is
distinctly stated at p. 81 (seoond edition, 1864), that after the Hall had been repaired and considerably
enlarged, subsequently to the Great Fire, Six John Moore, who had contributed the sum of 6002L
towards the coat, ** was the first Chief Magistrate who [in 1681J kept his Mayoralty at Grocers' HaU
[but his feast at Guildhall], and he paid the Company a nett rent of 2ml. for the use of it It oontinoad
to be let for the same objject for many years ; and in 1736, as the Company's droumstanoes had mtixh.
Improyed, it was ordered by the Court of Assistants that the hall should not^ for the fhture, be let bojfc
to a Lord Mayor attached to the Company."
" But the year 1736 is not the oate of the cessation of the occupancrr of Grocers' Hall as the
mansion-house ; for it had been conyerted forty years before to a purpose which some will esteem still
important. On the 4th Oct. 16M^ it was demised for eleyen years to the Bank of England, then first
established ; and it continued to be so employed during forty years, until the Bank reraoyed to Thread-
needle-street in 1734: so that the resolution of the Court of the Grocers in 1735, aboye quoted from
Hr. Heath, was conseouent upon the repairs of their hall whidh ensued after it was yanted by the
Bank of England, not oy the Lord Mayors."
John Donton, the fitmoos bookseller, of the Poultry, dined at the Lord Itfayor^s
Feast at Grocers' Hall, in 1693, when his Lordship sent ^'a noble spoon" to
each gnesfs wife. It is still nsnal, in some Companies, for a spoon and fork of
bone to accompany the service of dried fruit and oonfectionery provided for the same
purpose.
3. DsAFEBfl' Hall is in Throgmorton-street, where the Ck>mpany settled in 1541, in
a large mansion built temp. Henry VIII., " in the place of olde and small tenements^
by Thomas Cromwell, Mayster of the King's Jewel-house," and afterwards Earl of
Essex; upon whose attunder, the property was purchased by the Drapers and made
their " Common Hall," till about the period of the Great Fire, which was here stopped
in its progress northward.
8tow relates that his Esther had a garden a^Joinhie Cromwell's, and dose to his soath psle a hoosi*
which, l^ the Mayster's order, was remoyed upon rollers, so as to gain a strip of ground, as Cromwell
had tfliken from other neighbours. " No man,'' says Stow, ** durst go to argue the matter, but each noaa
lost his land, and my father payed his whole rent, which was ^•. yii^. the yeare, for that halfe which
was left. Thus much of mine owne knowledge have I thought good to note, that the sodaine rising of
some men causeth than to forget themselyes/'
Cromwell's House b figured on Aggas's plan with four embattled turrets. The
garden, which is well kept up to this day, became celebrated in 1651, when the pleasant
country lay open in its rear nearly all the way to Hempstead and Highgate. {See
Gabdens, p. 866.)
Although the Fire of London stopped at Drapers' Hall, it was " all consumed to
ashes ;" but the Company's property was saved by removing it into the garden, and
" watcliing it ther for seaven days and nights." The Hall was rebuilt by Jarman, but
nearly destroyed by fire in 1774, after which it was partly rebuilt (as we now see it)
by the brothers Adam. It consists of a quadrangle surrounded by an ambulatory of
arches and columns; the front in Throgmorton-street is highly enriched with stone-
work; the Drapers' arms over the gateway have for supporters lions instead of
leopards. On the noble stone staircase is a marble bust of King George IV. The Hall
ceiling is embellished with Phaeton and the mgns of the ssodiac ; the screen is curiously
carved, and above it is a fine portrait of Lord Nelson by Beechey : over the master*!
chair is a half-length portrait on panel (in oil, and therefore not contemporary) of Fits-
Alwin, the first Mayor of London, whom the Drapers dum as of their Companyy whereas
Stow and other writers describe him of the Gk)ldsnuths'. In the wainscoted gallery
are full-length portraits of the English sovereigns from William III. to George IV.,
the last by Lawrence ; with the celebrated whole-length of Maiy Queen of Scots and
her son James L, ascribed to Zncchero, traditionally said to have been thrown over the
EALL-BBAFEES'. 899
vail into the Drapers' garden during the Fire of London, and never afterwards owned:
it has heen copied hy Spiridione Boma, and engraved hy BartolomL
" There is another tradition of this picture : that Sir An{h<»7 Babington, confidential Secretaiy to
Qoeen Marr, had her portrait, which he deposited for safety either at Merchant-Tailors' Hall or Drapers'
Uill, and that it had never come back to Sir Anthony or his fiunily. It has been insinnated that Sir
William Boreman, clerk to the Board of Oreen Cloth m the reion of Charles II., purloined this picture
from one of the royal palaces. Some have suggested that it is tiie portrait of Lady Duldl>ella Boreman,
the wife of Sir William ; but the style and costume are much older."— 2%0 Oiypt, No. 4, 1827.
In the Conrt-room is a marhle bas-relief of the Company receiving their charter. In
the ladies' chamber, balls are g^ven. In the Livery-room, among other portraits, is a
three-quarter length of Sir Robert Clayton, by Kneller, 1680 ; and a small portrait of
Thomas Bagshaw (d. 1794), beadle to the Company forty years. The windows of thia
nom look into the private garden, where are a fountiun and statne.
Thfe Ihaperi* Companj was founded in 1832, and incorporated In 1364: thOT possess seven original
oisrten, finely written, and claim to reckon more lord mayors than an^ other Company, — Strype states
K yean*. Their grant of arms, in 14S8, is the only document of its kind of so early a date ; the
Hezslds* Colle^ possessing none of the arms of the London Livexy Companies. The Drapers' gnmt is
upt at the Bntish Museum, and contains illustrative historical notices of the Company ; and the books
continue its history fbr above two centuries. In the Wardois* accounts are raprentice-feea, called *' Spoon
SilTer;** "potadons at our Lady Fair in Southwark," ftc In an entry of 1486, pippins are first men
tioned: 1481, "the aldermen of the taylo's were treated with brede and wine at Drapers' haUe:
VBi, *toT cresset-etaflb and banners, and bread, ale, and candell, in keeping x^. days' watch after th
••
vlltli, weighing ccxxUm and 1 quartr ; 1521, the Drapers took the lead in settling the contiibution
nqaired by the Government from the Great Companies towards ftumiahing ships of discovery under
the command of Sebastian Cabot
The Company had " the Drapers' Ell" granted to them by Edward IIL, for measuring the cloth sold
H St Bartholomew's and Southwark fldrs: it bore the name of "the Yard,'* ** the Connxuiy's standard,"
«. In the entries for relief " to those fallen in poverty," 1626, is y«. and itQ<l. to Sir Laurence Aylmer,
one of the Drapers two or three times Master of the Company, Sheriff 1.601, and Lord Mayor 1607-8.
The Dress or Livery of this Company varied more than that of any othor, and the colours were
™nged at almost every election untu tonp. James I., when a uniform liyery was adopted ; their ob-
Kiranoes canslsting of election ceremonies, ftmerals, oUts^ and pageantries at state and civic triumphs.
At their last public procession in 1761, their poor carried a pair of shoes and stockings, and a suit of
Clothes, an annual legacy.
^6 Drapers had a Hall in St. Swithin's-lane, Cannon-street, whither they removed
trom Comhill. The St. Swithin's-Ume Hall is first mentioned in 1405 ; when we find
eDtered " a hammer to knock npon the table," the great parlonr, the " high table" of
the dining-hall (then strewed with rushes), the ladies' chamber, and the chekker cham-
^> all which at feasts were hung with tapestry; the kitchen had three fire-places,
^e ladies' chamher (an apartment which the Drapers still retain) was solely for the
^I'^en of the fraternity, and in which they occasionally had separate dinners, instead
of miiing with the company in the hall. The married ladies only, and those of the
highest class, were the guests, *' the chekker chamher being for maydens." A ladies*
^^ in 1515 included hrawn and mustard, capon hoiled, swan roasted, pyke, venison
Mked and roasts jellies, pastiy, quails, sturgeon, salmon, and wafers and ipocras.
Ihe Drapers thus early gave more splendid feasts than any other Company, their
gnests usuaUy heing the dignified and conventual clergy; including the abbot of Tower
Hill, the prior of St. Mary Overy, Christchurch, and St Bartholomew ; the provincial
^^ the prior of " Freres Austyn's," the masters of St. Thomas Aeon's and St. Law-
>^ce Pulteney. The sisters formed pert of the usual guests, as did also the wives of
Ambers, whether enrolled amongst them or not : and vimtors of high rank were per-
*^Uy waited on by the heads of the Company. Among the items of the Midsummer
^east, 1514-15, is perhaps the earliest mention c£ players as companies : ** To Joban
Slye and his company, for ij. plays on Monday and Tewsday," including «* Robert
Wmiams, the Harp, and Henry Colet, the Lut, iiij«." Among the rules •' for the syt-
^jng m y« halle" was, '* No brother of the frat'nite to presume to sytte at any table in
^ halle tyll the mayr and the states have wasshed and he sett at the hygh table, on
P«yneofuj«. ii^V
The Drapers' Company have very large estates, and are trustees of numerous bene-
^^^ bequests, bendes Almshouses. There are many females free of the Company,
^ho invariably oome on the list to participate in the charities. The Earls of Bath and
400 CURIOSITIES OF LONDON.
JSawXy the BaronB Wotton, and the Dakes of Chandos, derive their desoent from mem-
ben of the Drapers' Company.
Drapers' Hall had long been the nsnal rendezvons on Lord Mayor's day, aooording
to the poetical programme of the show repeated in many of Jordan's FageauU^-'
"Selected Citiient i' th' morning all
At wTen o'clock do meet at Drapen' Hall."
And in mnch earlier times the feast had been held there, until some new kitchens were
completed at Ghiildhall in 1501.
4. FiSHKOKOEBs' Hall, at the north-west foot of London Bridge, was rebuilt by
Koberts in 1830-8, and is the third of the Company's Halls nearly on this site, part df
which was then purchased at the rate of 630,000/. per acre. It is raised upon a lofty
basement cased with gpranite, and containing fireproof warehouses, which yidd a large
rental. The river front has a balustraded terrace, and a Qrecian-Ionio hexastjie and
pediment. The east or entrance front is enriched with pilasters and columns, and has
in the attic the arms of the Company, and two bas-relie& of sea-horses. The entrance-
hall is separated firom the great staircase by a screen of polished Aberdeen granite
columns; and at the head of the stairs is a statue, carved in wood by £• Pierce, of Sir
William Walworth, a Fishmonger, who carries a dagger.
In his hand was fbnnerly a daner, said to be the identical weapon with which he stabbed Wat
Tyler, thongh in 1731 a poblican of lalington pretended to pocaeaa tbe actoal poniard. Beneath the
statue is the inscription:
" Brave Walworth, knight, lord-mayor, yt slew
Rebellions Tyler in his alannes:
The King, therefore, did give in liew
The dagger to the City armea.
In the 4th year of Richard U. anno Domini 1381."
A oommon bnt erroneons belief was thus propagated : for the dagger was In the City arms long
before the time of Sir William Walworth, and was mtonded to represent the sword of 8t. Panl, the
patron saint of the Corporation.
The reputed dagger of Walworth, which has lost ito guard. Is preserved by the Company : the
workmanship is of Walworth's period. The weapon now in the hand of the ftatoA (which is somewhat
picturesque^ and in our recollection was coloured en eovUme) is modern.
The Company has numbered about fifty lord mayors, among whom was Sir William
Walworth, who, in his second mayoralty, slew Wat Tyler, commemorated in a pageant
in 1740 by a personation of Walworth, dagger in hand, and the head of Wat Tyler
carried on a pole. Next among the lord mayors was Sir Stephen Foster, who rebuilt
Ludgate prison ; also. Sir Thomas Abney, the friend of Dr. Isaac Watts. Doggct, the
comedian, was a Fishmonger; and his bequest of a coat and a rilver badge is in the
direction of this Company, who have added four money-prizes,
Thomas Dogget, who wrote Tk« Countrv Walu, a comedy, 1096, was bom in Castle^treet, Dublin.
He first appeared on the Dublin stage; and subsequently, with Robert Wilks and Colley Cibber, became
joint-manager of I>rurT>lane Theatre. He was a friend of Congreve, who wrote for turn the characters
of Fondlewife in the Old Baekelor^ and Ben in Lovtfor Love. Dogget's strle of acting was very origi-
nal, and he was an excellent dreuer. He died in 1721, and being a stannoa Whig, b^ineathed a sum
of money to purchase a coat and silver badge, to be rowed for on the Thames on the 1st of August
annually, to commemorate the accession of the House of Hanover to the throne of Qreat Britain :
** Tom Dogget^ the greatest sly drole in bis parts,
In acting was certain a master of arts ;
A monument left— no herald is toUer,
His praise is sung yearly by many a sculler ;
Ten thousand years hence, if the worlc^laste so long,
Tom Dogget will still be the theme of their song;
When old Noll, with great Lewis and Bourbon, are forgot,
And when numberless kings in oblivion shall rot"
Written on a windoto-pane at Lambe£h, August 1, 1736.
The Garrick Club possess sn original portrait of Dogget. (See p. 249.)
The Court dining and drawing rooms face the river, of which they have a fine view*
with the Kent and Surrey hills. The banqneting-hall is 73 feet by 38 feet, and 33
feet high, and has Sienna scagliola Corinthian pilasters, between which are suspended
the arms of the benefactors and past prime-wardens of the Company ; at one end of
the hall are the royal arms, and opposite, those of the Fishmongers, in stained glass :
on tbe front of the masic-gallery are emblazoned the arms of tbe City and Twelve
Great Companies : this introduction of heraldic insignia in a Grecian hall, being novel
but very striking, and especially when lighted up by eight chandelierB. Among the
HALL—FISHMONGEBff. 401
CmriotUie*, besides Sir W. Walworth's dagger, is lus fimeral-pall, of cloth-of-gold ; the
ndes embroidered with the Sariour giving the Keys to St. Peter, and the Fishmonger^
Arms; and the ends with the Deity and ministering Angels : here, too, is a plan of the
show at Walworth's installation as mayor, probably the oldest representation of a lord
mayor's show extant. Here also are eight carious pictures of fish, by Spiridione Roma,
akilfnlly grouped and correctly coloured. Among the portraits are William HI. and
Queen, by Murray; Qeorge 11. and Queen, by Shackleton; the Duke of Kent and
Admiral Earl St. Vincent, by Beechey ; and Queen Victoria, by Herbert Smith. Here
also is preserved the old flag presented to Earl St. Vincent by the crew of the ViUe de
Farts, in which the shot-holes have been carefully darned over and repaired. In the
Court dining-room is a splendid rilver chandelier, made ia the year 175^ weight
1350 oz. 14 dwts.
The several apartments were re-decorated by Mr. Owen Jones, in 1865.
Tlie prwidentUl chair of the Prime Warden (the FishmonffeTs have not a Maeter) is a relic of Old
London Bridge, and commemorative of the new one; bridge piers form the angles, arches sapport the
and it was made entirely from the wood and stone taken np from the foondation of Old London
Bridge^ In Jnlj 1832, having remained there 666 years, being pat down, in Jnne 1176. by the boilder,
Peter, a priest, who was Yicar of Coleehnrch; and 'tis rather corioos that ajpriest should begin thtf
bridge, and, afterso long a period, that a narson should dear it entirely away." Upon the seat of the chair
is incised: " I am part of the first stone that was put down for the fbundation of Old London Bridge, in
Jane 1176, by a priest named Peter, who was Vicar of Colechurch. in London ; and I remained thet«
ondistarbed, safe on the same oak piles this chair is made from, till the Bev. William John Jolllffe, Carate
of Colmer, Hampshire, took me np in July, 1832» when clearing mtbj the old bridge, after New London
Bridge was completed."
The Fishmongers were incorporated 500 years since, and they existed as a guild two centories earlier.
Bt letters patent 10th of July, 37 Edward IIL (1364), the fraternity was incorporated anew, by the name
of the Mystery of the Fishmongers of London. They were among the earliest of the metropolitan
guilds, and were amerced in the reign of Henry II. The earliest Parliamentary enactment on our
•tatnte-books relative to fish is that of 1 Edward I., who was glorified, on his return from his Scottish
Tictory, in 1298, with a most splendid pageant by the Fishmongers, in which figured gilt sturgeons and
silver salmon, and a thousand horsemen. In the year before thdr incorporation the Company had made
Edward III. a pr^ent of money towards carrying on his French wars, the sum being 402., only one
pound less than the Mercers, the highest Company. In 1382, Parliament enacted that 'mio Fishmonger
should for the fhturebe admitted Mayor of the City," which prohibition was, however, removed next
year. Before the union of the Salt and Stock Fishmongers, thev had ** six several Halls : in Thames-street,
twain ; in New Fish-street, twain ; and in Old Fish-street, twain." (Stow.) Next, the Fishmongers' Com-
pany was formed by the Junction of the two Companies of Salt Fishmongers and Stock Fishmongers, and
was incorporated by Henry VIII., in 1636.
The first Hall of the joint Company in Thames-street, in Hollar's view, 1647> has a
dining-ball across the original qoadranglo : the whole pile was of stone, embattled, and
reaching to the water's edge ; it had Tudor-shaped windows and square wing-towers,
ftnd altogether resembled a castle. In the (Ireat Fire,
" A key of fire ran all along the shore.
And frighten'd all the rirer with a blaze."— Diyden's iinnics MirabiUt,
The Hall was entirely destroyed, but was rebuilt in 1674, not by Wren, as generally
stated, but by Jarman, as proved by the Company's books : this edifice had a stately
river-front, with an entrance from Thames-street, and was taken down in 1831, the
Company having sold a portion of the land to the City for the new London Bridge
approach. The cellars had been let as " T^Hine Shades," from the year 1697, the entrance
being from the quay : here " the citizens drank their genuine old port and sherry,
drawn firom the casks, and viewed the bridge-shooters and boat-racers." The " Shades"
were subsequently removed to the house of Alderman Garratt, who, as Lord Mayor, laid
the first stone of the present London Bridge.
Among the Trust-estates and Charities of the Company is St. Peter's Hospital, origin-
ftlly erected at Kewington, but taken down in 1851, and rebuilt on Wandsworth Common.
(See AIJC8HOX7BE8, p. 8.)
The Stock Fishmongers, from the earliest times, adopted St. Michael's Church, Crooked-
lane (rebuilt and enlarged by their two eminent members, John Lovekyn and William
Walworth), as their general burial-place, to which they added "the Fishmongers'
Chapel." St. Michael's was destroyed in the Great Fire, was rebuilt by Wren, but
was taken down in 1831 for the new London Bridge approach.
The history of the Fishmongers abounds with curious details of their trade and
2> i>
402 CUBI08ITIE8 OF LONDON.
mystery ; and thdr regulations, even to the crying of fish, are very minute. The andent
market can he traced. The i^mongers* statutes have not entirely fallen into desue-
tude : they had power in early times " toenter and seize had fish ;" and to this day two
inspectors are employed hy the Company, and report to the Court the numher of unwhole-
some fish destroyed. The Charter hy which the Company is now governed was granted
in the reign of James I. The property of tlie Fishmongers has greatly increased in
▼Blue; and the Charity Commissioners, at their latest visitation, hm testimony to the
excellent administration of the fhnds of the Company. Curious it is to look hack at
the empty enactment of 600 years nnce, " that no Fishmonger he Lord Mayor of this
City," and contrast it with the records which show that more than fifty of the Company
have heen Lord Mayors. Stow teUs us of " these fishmongers having been jolly
citizens, and six Mayors of their Company in the space of twenty-four years;" and in
our time Aldermen Sir Matthew Wood and Mr. William Cuhitt, flshmongersy each
filled the civic chair twice, in successive years.
On Feb. 12, 1863, the Prince of Wales took the first step towards becoming a member
of the Corporation of the City of London, by taking up his freedom of the Company of
Fishmongers, of which his Royal Highness's father and grandfather were also freemen.
On July 10, 1864^ the Company had been incorporated 600 years : the day was Sun-
day ; and, on Tuesday following, the event was celebrated by a festival at Fishmongers'
Hall, the Prime Warden, Mr. James Spicer, presiding, and pre&cing the toast of th9
evening with a prSeit of the history of the Company.
6. Gocdsicithb' HalIi» Foster-lane, Cheapdde, back of the General Poet Office^
built by Philip Hardwick, RJL., 1832-35, is the most magnificent Gty Hall, and the
third erected for the Company on this site ; its cost being defrayed without trenching
on their funds for charitable purposes. The architecture is Italian, seventeenth and
eighteenth centuries ; the building is 180 feet in front and 100 feet in depth, com-
pletely insulated ; the basement is Haytor granite, and the superstructure fine Portland
stone. The west or principal fagade has six attached Corinthian colunms, the whole
height of the front, supporting a rich Corinthian entablature and bold cornice of extra-
ordUnary beauty, continued all round the building. The east» north, and south fronts
are decorated with pilasters, which also terminate the angles. The plinth is 6 feet
high, and some of the blocks in the columU'shafts and entablature weigh from 10 to
12 tons each. The windows of the principal story have enriched and bold pediments^
supported by handsome trusses, and the centre windows have massive balustraded
balconies : the echinus moulding in this story is much admired. The interoolumnia-
lions of the centre above the first fioor, in place of the continuation of the windows of
the second story, have the Company's arms, festal emblems, and naval and military
trophies, floridly sculptured. The entrance-door is a rich specimen of cast-work ; the
Hall roof is entirely covered with lead.
This noble Hall is disadvantag^usly placed, but its sumptuous architecture is best
appreciated when seen from the rear of the Post Office. The interior is correspondingly
superb : from the vestibule branches right and left a grand staircase, on the balustrade
of which are four marble statuettes of the Seasons by Nixon ; in the central niche is a
marble bust of William IV. by Chantrey ; and above are portraits— of George IV . by
Northcote ; and George IIL and his Queen, by Ramsay. The ascent is to a gallery,
with screens of scagliola verde antique columns, between which are statues of Apollo
Selvidere and Diana and the hart; from the dome hangs a magnificent chandelier : the
effect of the whole is fiucinating and scenic, particularly when viewed through the four
piles of columns. The banqueting-hall, 80 by 40 feet, and 36 feet high, has a range of
Corinthian columns along its sides, which are raised on pedestals and insulated. The five
lofty and arched windows are filled with armorial bearings ; and at the north end is a
spacious alcove for the display of plate, lighted from above. On the ades is a large
mirror, with busts of George III. and IV. by Chantrey. Between the columns are
lofty portraits of Queen Adelaide, by M. A. Shee; and William IV. and Queen
Victoria, by Hayter. The Court-room has an elaborate stucco ceiling; and here, be-
neath glass, is preserved a Roman altar (sculptured with figures of ApoUo and a dog,
and a lyre), which was found in digging the foundations of the present HaU. In the
Court-room is Janssen's portrait of Sir Hugh Myddelton (a Goldsmith), who brought
EALL-G0LD8MITE8'. 403
the New River to London : the pictnre is in the style of Vandyck; Sir Hogh wears a
black habit, his band rests upon a shell, and near bim is inscribed ** Foutes Fodinsa."
Next is a portrait (said by Holbein), of Sir Martin Bowesj, Lord Mayor 1546, Intro-
ducing the cup be bequeathed to the Goldsmiths' Company : here also hangs a large
painting of St. Dnnstan (patron of the Goldsmiths), in rich robe, and crozier in hand;
in the background the saint is taking the devil by the nose, and the heavenly host ap-
pears above : the marble chimney-piece of this room was brought from CanooB, and its
two large terminal busts are attributed to Roulnliao. The drawing-room (crimson^
white, and gold), has immense mirrors, and a c^ling exquisitely wrought with flowers^
finits, birds, quadrupeds^ and scroll-work, relieved with gay coats of arms. The Court
dming-room has in the marble ciumney-pieoe two boys holding a wreath, encircling the
head of Richard II., by whom the Goldsmiths' incorporation was confirmed.
In the Livery tea-room is a conversation-picture by Hudson (Reynolds's master),
containing portraits of six Lord Mayors, all Goldsmiths : Sir H. Marshall, 1745 ; W«
Benn, 1747; J. Blachford, 1750; R. Allsop, 1752; Edmund Ironside and Sir Thomas
Kawlinson, both in 1754, the former having died during his mayoralty.
The Goldsmiths' Company, anciently the " Gilda Auriffibrorum," was probably of
foreign origin, and was fined as Adulterine, by Henry II. in 1180 : incorporated in
1327, 1st of Edward III. ; the grant being confirmed by Richard II., in 1392. The
Company have altogether fifteen charters. They purchased the site of their present
Hall, with tenements^ in 1823 ; their second Hall was built by Sir Drew Barentyne^
Goldsmith, and Lord Mayor in 1398 : it was hung with Flemish tapestry, representing
the history of St. Dunstan, whose silver-gilt statue stood on the reredos, or screen :
Sir B. Rede, when mayor, gave in this hall a feast, with *'a paled park, furnished with
froitfoU trees and beasts of venery." The Hall, from 1641 till the Restoration, was
the Exchequer of the Parliamentarians, wherein was stored up the money accumulated
by sequestrations, or forfeitures of the Royalists' estates, as we read in the news-
papers of that day. The Hall was nearly destroyed in the Great Fire, after which
it was repaired and parUy rebuilt. This hall was taken down in 1829 : it was very
large, and the interior was sumptuously decorated.
Cheapaide, Old 'Change, Foster-lane, St. Msrthi'B-le-Orand, and the avenues near GoldsmithB' Hall,
were the oldest localities of the goldsmiths' trade; there were also Gatter-lane, Sevnt Marten's, May-
denyng-lane, Westminster, Southwark, Bash-lane, Lombard-street, Silver-street, and other places. The
noneyers, or sheremoniers (such as cat out the plates to be stamped), oocopied the Old ^Change and
Sermon-lane. The shopkeepers, or sellers of plate, *' sat in the High-street of Chepe." The Goldsmiths
onzen monument or ueniy v ii. ; ana m ine ronrtn year oi isawara i v . a mai or skiu oetween lii-nffiisn
goldsmiths and ftn«iffn ones took place at the Pope'»>Head Tavern, Comhill (now Pope's-Head-aliey),
which was adindged m fttvoar of our workmen, varloos entries show the Company to have been both
openUve goldsmiths and at the same time bankers.
Bobert Yyner; Sir John Shorter; Sir Francis Child, banker; and Sit Charles Dancombe.
Tlie Goldsmiths' P^eants were of old very costiy ; they formerly nmintained a
splendid barge, and they possess a rich pall or hearse-doth. St. Dunstan's image, of
^ver-gilt, set with gems, once adorned their Hall; and they drank bis memory
from "St. Dunstan's Cup."
The Company's plate is very magnificent, and comprises a chandelier of chased gold,
weighing 1000 ounces ; two superb old plates of gold, having on them the arms of
France quartered with those of England, but without those of Hanover ; the cup be-
queathed by Sir Martin Bowes, and out of which Queen Elizabeth is said to have drunk
at her coronation. At the Great Eihibition of 1851, the Company awarded 1000^. to
the best artists in gold and mlver plate ; and, as a further commemoration, resolved to
add to their treasures 6000Z. worth of plate of British manufacture.
The Jjsoir possessed bv the Qoldsmiths' Company oompels every article of mannlkctare Inffoldor
■ilver to be marked with the " Hall mark " before it leaves the workman's hands, and authorizes the
Wardens to break whatever article is below standard. The Assay, anciently **the touch," with the
marking or stamping and proTine of the coin at " the Trial of the Fix," were privileges conferred on
the Goldsmiths' Company Before the statute 28th Edward I.; and they had an assi^-office more than
^ years aoo. **The same Act orders all soldsmiths' work to be stamped with the leopard's head, —
thai animal, before the adoption of the lion, being the armorial cognuance of England." (HerUri.)
The touch-wardens and assay-master have large steel puncheons and marks of diinsrent sizes." The
9 9 2
40i 0UBI08ITIE8 OF LONDON.
manner of making the aanjiii thna : *' The uaay-mMter pate a email quantity of ailyer npon trial in
the lire: and then taking it oat again, he, with nil exact aoalea, that will turn with the weight of the
kmndrtdih part of a jfrain. computee and reports the goodness or badness of the gold and sUver."—
TimehMtoiufor GoUnmik^ Wart$.
The Hall mark shows where mannlketared, as tlu leopard's head for London. Dmtn mark is the
bead of the sovereign, showing the duty is paid. Datt mark is a letter of the alphabet^ which Taries
•rerj jeart thus, the Goldamiths's COTipany have used, from 1716 to 1765, Roman capital letters;
1756 to 1776. small Boman letters; 1776 to 1796, Old English letters; 1796 to 1815, Roman capital letters,
firom A to tf, omitting J ; 1816 to 1835, small Boman letters, a to u, omitting j ; from 189Q, Old English
letters. There are two qualities of gold and diver ; the infiBrior is mostly m use : the quality marks
Ibr silTOT are Britaimia^ or the head of the reigning monardlL ; for gold, the lion passant, 22 or 1^
which denotes that fine void is 24^arat, 18 only 75 per cent, gold ; sometimea rings are marked 22.
The Mamffaeturet'M wtarit is the initials of the noiaker.
The Company are allowed 2i per cent., and the fees for stamping are paid In to the Inland Berenue
Offloe. At Ooldsmiths' Hall, in the years 1850 to 1863 IndnsiTe, mere were assayed and marked 85
n-oarat watch cases, 316,347 18-carat, 483 15-ca(at, 1550 12-carat, 448 9-earat^ making a total of 318,923
oases, weighing 467,250 ounces, 6 dwts., 18 grains. The Goldsmiths' Company append a note to this
retom, stating that they have no knowledge of the yalue ofthe cases assayed, except of theintrinsicvalne
as indicirf«d by the weight and quality of the gold given in the return. The silTer watch cases assayed
at the same establishment in the fourteen years numbered 1,139,70^ tiie total weight being 2^3(^192
oonoes, 19 dwts. In the year 1867, the largest number of cases were assayed out of the fourteen. The
predse number in that year was 106,860, this being more than 10,000 above any year in the period named.
In a subsequent year the number was only 77,606. A similar note with regard to value is appended to
the return of silyer cases as to the gold.
6. Skikitebb' HaiJi, Dowgate-hill, rebnilt after the Great Fire, was refronted by
Japp about 1790 : in the pediment are the Company's arms, and the frieze is orna-
mented with festoons and leopards' heads. The drawing-room is lined with odorife-
rons cedar, carved and enriched, and has been restored by George Moore;, F.B.S., who
has also rebuilt the dining-hall, in Italian style with an enriched ceiling, and an Ionic
gallery for minstrels. The pediment bears the Company's arms. The staircase still
displays some of the many ornaments in fimhion after the (}reat Fire. On the walls
above the wainsoot are panels for frescoes. Here is the portrait of Sir Andrew Judd,
Skinner, Lord Mayor 1551, and founder of the Tunbridge School, the affiiirs of
which are managed by the Company.
Among Judd's bequests was his " oroft of pasture, called the SandKilU, on the backside of Holbom,**
in the parish of St Pancras, which probably let for a few pounds at the time ofthe testator's decease,
but is now covered with houses, the ground-rents of which amount to several hundreds a year. At
the expiration ofthe present leases in 1906, the rental of this estate alone will exceed 20.000/. a-year—
a vast income for a public school."— Britton's Tunbridge W*IU, 1832.
The Company also possess much property, especially in Clerkenwell, where, near the
Clerks' Well, was Skinners* Well, around which the skinners of London acted Holy
plays ; one of which, in 1408, kstod eight days* and was *< of matter from the Creation
of the World."
The Skinners were incorporated m the first year of Edward III., 1827, and became
a brotherhood in the reign of Richard II. Twenty-nine Lord Mayors have been chosen
firom this Company. They have been honoured by the membership of six kings, five
queens, one prince, nine dukes, two earls, and a baron. The existing charter was
granted by James I. : few of the members are now furriers.
Gradually the use of furs by male persons ceased, except in the case of peers and
magistrates for their state robes, ermine for kings, and fur trimmings for liverymen.
The Skinners were proud of the antiquity of their guild, and in 1839 disputed with the
Fishmongers for precedence, and a skirmish ensued. The munidpal authorities seized
some of the ringleaders; they were rescued, and the Mayor with his officers mal-
treated, when " these desperate fellows were apprehended, tried, and condemned at
Guildhall, and executed in Cheapside, the king granting an indemnification to the
Mayor." In 1395 they seem to have carried on their business operations in the parish of
St. Mary Axe. Strype says that " in his days they removed to Budge-row and Walworth."
Choosing officers of the Company was thus described to Mr. Herbert : — " The principals
being assembled on the day of election, ten blue-coat boys, with the almsmen and
trumpeters, enter the hall. Three large silver cocks or fowls, so named, are then
brought in and delivered to the Master and Wardens. On unscrewing these pieces of
plate, they are found to form drinking-cups, filled with wino, and from which they
drink. Three caps of maintenance are then brought; the old Master tries on the
first, and finding it will not fit, gives it for trial to those next to him ; fiiiling to fit
any of them, it is then given to the intended new Master, and on its duly fittings he is
EALL--MEBCHA2n''TAIL0B8'. 405
then announced with acclamations as the Master-elect. Like ceremonies rfire repeated
with the other caps on the Wardens."
At a dinner at Fishmonffen' Hall, Deeembe?'9, 1858, the tosft of "the CSty Companies " wu ao-
knowledged bj Mr. Locke, M.P., Master of the Skhinera' Company, in virtae of an old award by which
the Skinners' Company and the Company of Merchant Tailors took precedence of each other in alter-
nate yean. Both these companies were estabhshed in the rei^ of Edward III., and for a long period
were at deadly fend on the point of precedence, their processions never meeting in the streets of the
dty without a fieht. In the reign of Richard III. one of these conflicts was so violent that several
persons were killed on both sides ; in oonseqnence of this event the point at issue was decided by the
Lord Mayor of the time, who made an award by which the two companies were given precedence of
each other alternately, and this old regulation is still observed ; according to it Mr. Locke spoke to
the toast, though the representative of the Merchant Tailors' Company was present. Mr. Locko also
Stated that the Prime Warden of the Fishmongers'Company then priding was lineal descendant of
the Lord Mayor Boddington, who so long ago made the peace-preserving dedidon.
7. Meschant-Tailobs' Hali^ Threadneedle-street, was bnilt by Jarman soon after
the Great Fire. The hanqneting-room is the most spadoos of the City Companies' Halls,
and has a stately screen and mnsic^gallery. Upon the walls are shields emblazoned
with the Hasten^ arms, and whole-length portraits of King William and Qneen Maiy,
and other sovereigns. The Hall has, from an early period, been frequently lent to public
corporations : the " Sons of the Clergy" anniversary meeting is held here ; a splendid
hanqnet was given here in 1815 to the Duke of Wellington, when he was invested '
with the freedom of the Company. Among the great political feasts held here was
the dinner to Sir Robert Peel, May 11, 1835, at which the Duke of Wellington and
many Conservative members of the House of Commons were present.
Among the pictures in tiie hall, court-room, ftc., is a head of Henrv VIII. by Paris Bordone ; head
of Charles I. ; three-quarter and mil-length of Charles II.; ftUl-lengths of James II. and Qneen Anne;
George IIL and his Queen, by Bamsay; the Duke of York, by Lawrence; Lord Chancellor Eldon,
br Briggs ; the Duke of Wellington, by WilUe : Mr. Pitt, by Hoppner. Here too are portraits of Sir
Thomas White, Master of the Comnany 1661, founder of St. John^s College, Oxford ; portraits of other
lord mayors, Merchant-Tailors ; ana a modem picture of Henry VIL presenting his Charter of Incor*
poration, attended by Archbishop Warhun, Fox Bishop of Winchester, and Willoughby Lord Brooke.
The Merchant-Tailors, anciently ** Taylors and Linen Armourers," arose from a guild dedicated to
Bt John Baptist, originally incorporated by £dward IV. in 1406, but re-incorporated in 1608 by
HeniT VII., one of its members.
Theur first hall, in Threadneedle-street, was the mansion of E. Crepin, and was called the "New
Hal, or Tajlers* Inne." to distinguish it from their old hall in Basing-lane. This Hall was rebuilt, was
bong with tapestiy of St. John Baptist, and had on the screen a silver Image of St John in a tabernacle ;
ue windows were painted with armorial bearings : the floor strewed with rushes ; from the ceiling hung
nlk flags and streamers : and on feastrdays the tables on tressels were covered with the richest damask
luen and glittering plate. Among the other Hall buildings was the Treasury, in the garden, for plate,
goney, securities, Ac. : the King's Chamb^, for the reception of the royal personages, who visited the
llerchant-Tallors oftener than any other Company ; and the Summer banqueting-room. in the garden*
The Company's armoury is first mentioned In 1000, when there were state-palls and eighteen banners,
oesides pavises and pennons. After the Great Fire, from among the Hall ruins was collected the
Company's melted plate (200 lbs. wedght of metal), which they sold to b^fin a fund to rebuild.
One of the most splendid festivals in the old Hall was that gfiven to James L and
Prince Henry in 1607» when a child " delivered a short speech oontuning xviii. verses^
devi»ed by Mr. Ben Johnson;" and "in the Ship which did hang aloft in the Hall were
three rare men and very skilfol, who song to his Majesty.'' James dined in the King's
chamber, where Mr. John Bull, doctor of music, and a brother of the Company, played
a pair of organs aU the dinner-time. Then his Mijesty came down to the Great Hall,
where ** the three rare men in the shippe" sang a song of fiveweU, which so pleased
the King, that he caused the same to be sung three times over.
The Company are possessed of, and are Trustees to, great estates for noble pur-
poses* bendes the eminent School which bears their name. {See Mebohaitt-Tailobb'
School.) In 1664^ the schohvs acted in the old Hall Beaumont and Fletcher's comedy
of " Love's Pilgrimage."
In the list of the ^tinguished iVeemen of the Company are eleven sovereigns* about
as many princes of the blood-royal, thirteen dukes, two duchesses, nearly thLrty arch*
hishopg and bishops, fifteen abbots and priors, and a long list of the nobility.
One of the most eminent tailors (professionally so) was Sir John Hawkwood,
"Johannes Acutus," who <* twined his needle into a sword, and. his thimble into a
f^iold/' and became "the first general of modem times; the earliest master, however
imperfect, in the science of Turenne and Wellington." (Hallam's Middle Agee.) Sir
Halph Blackwell, stated to have been a fellow-apprentice of Hawkwood, and, like him,
knighted for his valour by Edward III., was also a Merchant-Tailor ; as were Speed
406 OTmiosiTma of lokdon.
and 8tow» Uie historians, both tailon by trade. Stow enjoyed an annnity from
the Company, who keep in repair hii monument in the chorch of St: Andrew, Under*
shaft. {See Chvschxs, p. 160.)
In the Merchant-TaOoTa' records, w« find thii mtifyiug entry : "1654, 132. 6». M. given to Offilby
the poet, firee of thla Company, on his petition tnat he had, at mnch atadv and expense, tranuated
YirffU into Enrliah metre, with annotations, and likewise ^sop's Fahlea, both which he had presented
to them fairly Doond." Herbert's TwtUf Oreat JUrery CompoiMef, toI.!!. p. 406.
Edward I. granted a lioenoe which reeognised the Merchant-Tailors as a guild;
Edward III. granted their first charter, and testified his regard for the Company by
becoming the first of its Boyal members. His grandson and successor, Richard II.t
and all the sover^gns of the Houses of Lancaster and York (excepting Edward Y,),
became honorary freemen of the Company. They also confirmed its charter and ex-
tended its privileges. Henry VII. re-incorporated the Company under its present
title, and presented the new charter to the Master and Wardens from the throne. He
afterwards conferred upon them tlie g^reat honour of presiding as Master at a festival
held in their HalL At a subsequent date James I. was entertained here by this
Company on his accession to the English throne ; and his Migesty's two sons, Henry
Prince of Wales and Charles Duke of York (afterwards King Charles I.), were en-
h>lled as honorary members. King James IL and Prince George of Denmark were
also honorary members of this andent fraternity. At a much more recent date, the
Dukes of York and Cambridge, the Duke of Wellington, Sir Robert Peel, the Doke
of Kent, and Prince Albert, were admitted to the honourable freedom of this Company;
and on St. Barnabas Day, June 11, 1863, the Prince of Wales was enrolled a Merchant-
Tailor. The representatives of the old English houses of Stanley, Percy, and Cecil are
honorary members of this Company ; as are Sir John Lawrence and Sir Oeorge Pollock;
while death only deprived the Company of the honour of such names as Dalhousie and
the brave and good Havelock being added to the roll.
8. Habesdashebs' Hau^ No. 8, Gresham-street West, is built upon ground be-
queathed to the Company in the reign of Edward IV. by a worthy citizen and haber-
dasher, with houses and premises, in the whole about half an acre of ground, of wLich
there is a plan among the Company's documents ; it is now part of Gresham-street
West, nearly opponte Goldsmiths' Hall. The ancient Hall of the Haberdashers, with
many of the Compan/s records and property of much value, were destroyed in the
Great Fire. This must have been a structure of some magnitude, from the Parliament
Commisuoners having held their meetings in it during the Interregpium. Th^
Hall was destroyed as above, except the strong-room, in which the ancient muni-
ments and plate of the Company were deposited ; these were saved intact on that
occasion, the intensity of the ordeal to which they were exposed being shown to this
day in the molten wax attached to the deeds, though they were inclosed in a place with
walls seven feet thick during the fire. In the year after the Fire, 1667, the rebuild-
ing of the Hall was commenced by Wren. Herbert says :— -" It has nothing to merit
description ; indeed, it much needs rebuilding." The hall was lofty and spacious, had
a screen and music-gallery, and several large glass chandeliers; it was let in winter
for City balls and assemblies. However, Wren's poor work was redeemed by a ^^
foliaged ceiling, which was destroyed some years once. There were, besides the
banqueting-room, houses, and offices, and a chapel. In some Corporation improvements
a portion of the frx)nt premises of the Hall in Gresham-street was removed to widen
the thoroughfare. A new entrance was then constructed, with two richly-carved oak
staircases ; besides a kitchen, with gas and other cooking-stoves, ovens, &c
In a great conflagration, September 19, 1864^ in which nearly half a million's worth
of property wss destroyed. Haberdashers' Hall was damaged to the extent of lOfiOOL*
besides the loss of historical relics : it had just been restored at 4000/. cost. Of tbe
banqueting-hall remained only the four walls, of fine proportions, being about 60 feet
long by 80 feet in width. It was ornamented with portraits by eminent painters, oi
benefkctors of the Company, and the arms of other distinguished members of the
Guild were emblazoned on the windows. The HaU has been restored. Among the
pictures, which were saved, are portraits of George I., George II., and Queen Carolin<N
Prince Frederick, when a youth (father of George III.), and Augusta, his consort; ^
HALLSSALTEBS", IBOimONGEBS'. 407
portraifcB of benefactors, inclTiding Bobert Aske, who left the Company 80,0002. to build
and endow almshouses at Hoxton ; and William Jones, merchant-adventurer, who also
bequeathed 18,0002. for beneyolent purposes. Here are a small statue of Henry VIII. ;
a painting of the Wise Menu's Offering ; also a portrait of Sir G^rge Whitmore, Lord
Mayor in 1631, who entertained Charles I. and his Queen in his noble mansion and gar-
dens of Baumes, or Balmes, Eingsland-road, Hoxton. The wrought-iron gates are fine.
The Company's Court books extend only to the reign of Charles I. ; but they possess a
smaU vellum book of ordinances, which has a good illumination of St. Katherine, the
Haberdashers' patron saint.
The Haberdathers, or Hnrrera of old, date their ordinances from 1372, and were incorporated by
Henry YI. in 1447. They were also called Milliners, from dealing in merchandize ih)m Milan. They
were oris^ally a branch of the Mercers, and Lydsate places their etaHs together in the Mercery k
Chepe. Here w^e also haberdashers of hats, as well as of small wares. In the reign of Edward YI,
there were only twelve milliners' shops in all London, but in 1580 the town became roll of them; and
this encooragement of foreign manufacture doubtless led to the sumptuary regulations anciently issued
to the Companies and dtj.
The location of the Company's Charities is denoted in Haberdashers' Fhice, Street^
and Walk, at Hoxton; Haberdashers' Square, Cripplegate; and Court, Snow-hilL
The original Hospital, built and endowed with Aske's princely bequest, was a truly
Palladian design, by Dr. Bobert Hooke, the fellow student of Sir Christopher Wren.
The present Hospital, by Boper, has in the centre a Doric tetrastyle portico leading
to the Hall and ChapeL The lodging-rooms of the almsmen, at Hoxton, are on each
aide of a quadrangle, in which is a statue of Aske, whose bequest also includes a
School, in Bunhill-row. The Charities amount to betwoen 30001. and 40002. annually.
9. Sai/tsbs' Hall, St. Swithin's-lane^ Cannon-street, the fifth hall of the Salters^
Company, was rebuilt by Henry Carr, architect, 1823-27 : it has a handsome Ionic
portico^ surmounted by the Company's arms. The Great Hall has a music-gallery, and
is hung with banners from the ceiling. Over the doorways are busts of George IIL
and IV., the Duke of York, and Nelson, and Wellington. In the Election Hall are por-
traits of Charles I. ; Adrian Charpentier, painted by himself, 1760 ; and William III.
aa horseback. In the waiting-room is preserved the bill of a feast to fifty Salters in 1506
'—I/. 13f . 2i(2. Their old plate includes a massive silver punchbowl, more than two
hundred years old ; and several loving-cups, one of which has been in the posseswm of
the Company since the year before the Great Fire.
In the Company's books is a receipt ** For to make a mooet choyoe Paaste of Gamys to be eten at ve
Feste of Chrystemasse " (17th Bichard II. a.d. 1394). A pie so made by the Companys cook in 1896
was found excellent. It consisted of a pheasant hare, and capon ; two partridges, two pigeons, and
two rabbits : ail boned and pat into paste in Uie shape of a bird, with the livers and hearts, two
mntton kidneys, forced-meats, and egg-balls, seasoning, spice, catsup, and pickled mushrooms, filled np
with gravy made trom the various bones.
The Salters* (Dry Salters) Company was not regularly incorp6rated till 1568; a
Baiter attended the Mayor as chief-butler at the coronation of Ridiard III., 1483, and
was represented at the coronation of George lY. The original of the Salters* only
printed pageant was sold in Bindley*s sale, in 1818, for twenty guineas.
The BtHtefrt^ first Hall was in Bread-street, next their kindred tradesmen the Fish-
mongers, in the Old Fish-market;, Enight-rider-street. This Hall was rebuilt. The
Company's third Hall was the town inn or mansion of the Priors of Tortington, pur-*
chased in 1641, and afterwards ** Oxford-place," from John de Vere, 16th Earl of
Oxford. It adjoined the dwellings of the infamous Empeon and Dudley, temp,
Henry YII., who met in the garden of Oxford-place, now Salters* Garden. The fourth
Hall succeeded the Qreat Fire, and had an arcade opening into the garden ; adjoimng
it was Salters'-Hall Meeting-house, rented of the Company, but taken down in 1821.
In the garden, the growth of shrubs and flowers is marvellous, amidst the bricks-and-
mortar and smoke, in the centre of the City : here rhododendrons bloom the second
year; ferns and ivy flourish; the medlar and flg fruit well; dahlias and geraniums
abound ; and bulfinches and sparrows congregate.
10. Iboxmoitgebb* Hall, Fenchurch-street, nearly oppoeite Mark-lane, built by
T. Holden, in 1748, has a handsome stone front, of Italian architecture, with lonio
pilasters, and a well-proportioned pediment, in which are sculptured the Company's
40103, Ac From the vestibule, divided by Tuscan columns^ a large staircase leads to
406 CURIOSITIES OF LONDON.
the banqueting-hall ; the deooratioiu of which are in Louis Quatorze taste, in Jack-
son's papier-mAch^ and earton-pierre imitative oak, aided by old carvings, and thns
economioilly effective. The Company's pictures consist chiefly of portraits of benefao-
toi's, including Mr. Thomas Betton, a Turkey merchant, wAo, in 1723-24, left 26,000/.,
half the interest of which was to be expended in ransoming British subjects, captives
in Barbary or Turkey. Here also is a fine portrait of Admiral Lord Viscount Hood, by
Gainsborough, presented by his lordship, in 1783, when he was admitted to the free-
dom of the Company, in testimony of his disting^hed naval services. One of tho
hall windows contains a very curious whole-length portrait, in painted glass, of Sir
Christopher Draper, date 1639.
The Ironmongen* w«re flrat incoiponted bv Edward lY. In 14B4 : their first " House," boflt upon
the site of the present hallp had a gate-house, the refectory strewed with rashes, court-chamber himg
with tapestry; and in armoury containing, in 1660» 17 back and breast plates, 17 pair of splinta, IS
forgets, 12 swords, and 11 daggers ; to which were afterwards added ooralets, skull-caps and red caps,
lade bills, and morris pikes, white coats with red crosses, 14 sheaves of arrows, &c. At the raising qf
the army of the Earl of Essex, in 1648, the Company lent, "to be returned or paled for," 10 nxasefc
armours, 10 pikes, 10 swords with belts, 10 hmd-pleces, 10 mnaquets with bandelores and resta^ and 10
murrions. In 1628, the Company lent Ueniy Ylll. a large sum of moner, by selling some of their plate
and pawning the rest; and Elizabeth compiled the Company to lend her money, which forced the
citizens to borrow of her at 7 per cent on pledges of gold and silver plate, &c
In the list of Masters and Wardens is John London, Esq., 1727, who gave name to
London-street, nearly opposite Ironmongers' HalL Now Wardens are chosen at the
end of tlie Election diinner, when the wafers are brought in : —
1671, Sept 21. " I din'd in the city at the Fraternity Feast in Ironmongers' Hall, where the foor
stewards chose their successors for the next yeare, with a solemn procession, garlands about tiieir heada^
and music playing before them ; so coming up to tiie upper tables where the gentlemen sate^ they drank
to the new stewsirds, and so we parted." — Evelyn's Dtarg.
The Company's pageants were very costly and characteristic ; one having Vulcan
and his forge, with smiths at work ; and an " estridge" (ostrich), ridden by an Indian
boy, Arom the common belief that this bird could eat and digest iron ; the supporters of
the Company's arms are salamanders, supposed, like iron, to be unhurt by fire. A feast
item of 1719 is " for playing on the tongs, lOf . ;" and a meat breakfast in 1542 is
charged " for the cook, turnspit, and woman, for dressing, viij(2." Funeral feasts were
flso celebrated in the HalL
Among the Company's charities are the handsome almshouses in the Eingsland-roady
ori^ally founded by the will of Sir Robert Geffery, Lord Mayor in 1686.
The Company possess— the Richmond Cup, date 1460, and regarded as unique ; Mazer Bowl, about
six Inches in diameter, the silTer-gilt rim inscribed : " Ave Maria gratia plena, Dominus tecum, bene-
dicta tu in mulierlbus : et benedictus frnctus yeutris tui;" the Ironmongers' Arms : Pair of Hour-glass
Salt-cellars, early sixteenth century. Also the following :— Grant of Arms by Lancaster, King of Anna,
to the Company, dated 24 Henry VL; Confirmation of Arms, by William Hervy, Clarendeux, to the
Ironmongers' Company, May 28, 1560 : Charter of Incorporation to the Quiid or Fraternity of Iron-
roonffers, March 20, 3 Edward IV. ; the Pall giten to the Company by " John Gyva, late ironmimger of
London, and Elizabeth, his wyflb ;" the Master's Garland, of velvet, and ornamented with the arms and
crest of the Company, engraved on silver; Grant from the Prior of Rochester to Matthew de la Wyke.
of the Manor of Norwood, in Middlesex. A.r>. 1241. To this charter is appended the very beautiful
seal (in green wax) of the Church of Rochester; two Volumes of the manuscript collections for a his-
tory of the Ironmongers' Com]wny, compiled by the present Master, John Nichols, Esq., FJ5.A.
In the baiiquctiiig-haU is a marble statue of Alderman Beckford, by Moore ; for-
mcrly at Fonthill, and presented to the Company by the Alderman's son, the author
of Vathek, when residing at Bath.
11. ViNTKSSg' Hall, Upper Thames-street, near Southwark-bridge, was rebuflt
by Wren, after the Great Fire ; when were destroyed the first Hall, in a quadrcuUf
given by Sir John Stodie, vintner, and Lord Mayor in 1357 {Stow) \ and the adjoining
almshouses devised to the Company by Guy Shuldham, in 1446. The present HaU
has been refronted, and is wunscoted and richly carved. In the Court-room are whole-
length portraits of Charles II., James II. and his queen, George Prince of Denmark ;
and a picture, attributed to Vandyck, of St. Martin (tutekr Saint of the Company)
dividing his cloak with the beggar.
* In Ironmonger-lane, Cheapslde, the trade first congregated ; and many eminent ironmongers were
buried in tlie church of the ai^acent parishes of St. Olave, Jewry, and St Martin, Ironmougei^Iane.
strype subsequently speaks of the removal of "the ironmongers of Ironmonger-hmc" into Thames-
Blreet, where the iron'maatcrs have extensive wharfs.
EALL--0L0THW0BKEB8', 409
The Ylntnen were incorporated as Wine-Tonnen by Heniy YI. In 1487; Edward III. having granted
them, in 1365, a charter for the exoloaiTe importation of wines from Gascony : the freemen, or ** free
▼intneiB" of the Company have the privilege of retailing wine withoat a licence. Stow tells ns the
Vintnem were of old called " Jf archants Vintners ofGascqyne," and *' great Uourdeoos merchants of Gas-
coyne and French wines." In the reign of Edward III. Gaaooyne wines were sold in London at 41»
and Kheniah at 6d^ the gallon.
The VhUry, which gives name to the Ward, wag part of the north bank of the
Thames, where Vintners' HaU and Qaeen-street-plaoe are now bnilt; it was at the
south end of Three Cranes-hine, so called from the implements with which the mer-
chants " craned their wines ont of lighters and other vessel^" and landed them : it was
so magnificent a building, that Henry Picard, vintner and Mayor in 1356, entertained
therein the kings of England, Scotland, France, and Cyprus, in 1363. After the Great
Fire, the ^^tners* Almshouses were rebuilt in the Mile-£nd-road. This Companyy
as well as the Dyers, continues to keep swans on the Thames (iee p. 416).
12. Clothwobkers' Hall (which just escaped destruction by the Great Fire), od
the east side of Mincing-lane, Fenchurch-street, was an edifice of red brick, adorned with
flat<>d brick pilasters. The Hall was richly wainscoted, and had life-sized carved figures
of James I. and Charles I. In the windows were painted arms of bene&ctors, including
Samael Pepys, Master of the Company in 1677, who presented them with a silver
election-cup and cover, embossed and paroel-gilt ; the foot inscribed '* Samuel Pepys,
Admiraliti Angliss Secretes et Sodet. : Pannif : Lond. Mr. (Master) An. 1677."
The dothworkers were originallr incorporated 1^ Edward lY. hi 14B2 as Shermen (Shearers), and
were united with the Fnllers in 1628 by Henry VIII., the oonioined fraternity being then named Cloth-
workers. James I. incorporated himself into the Clothworkersi, ** as men desJlng with the prindpal
and noblest staple wares of all these islands, woollen cloths." Amone their pageants was that of Sir
John Robinson, Lord Mayor 166S-d3, reviving ** the true English and manlike exercise of wrestling,
arehery, sword, and da^^r ;" when at his mayoralty feast in dothworkers' Hall, he entertained the
Kinir, Queen, and Qaeen-mother, the Dnke and Duchess of York. In the Great Fire "sfarange," says
Pep^a, ** it is to see Cloth workers* Hall on fire these three days and nights in one body of flame^ it
having the cellars ftill of orle." The OatutU of Sept 8, 1666, announces the Fhre to have stopped near
Clothworkers' Hall. The list of the Companv's Charities is remarkable for its number of anniversary
iermons and lectures, and for its bequests for blind persona. The Clothworkers' Almshouses (now at
Islington) were originally in Whitofriars, on part of a garden belonging to Margaret Countess of Kent,
held by her of the prior of that friary.
Howes relates that James I., belnff In the open Hall, Inquired who was Master of the Company ; and
the Lord Mayor answering " Sir William Stone," to him the King said, " Wilt thou make roe free of the
Clothworkers ?" ** Yea," quoth the Master, '* and think myself a happy man that I live to see this day."
Then the King said, " Stone, give me thy hand; and now I am a Clothworker." •
Clothworkers* Uall has heen rebuilt upon an enlarged plan, Samael Angell, archi-
tect, and was completed in 1860. The fefade is of Portland stone, and the style florid
Italian, rich in ornamentation. The main building includes a grand hall, or banquet-
ing-room, and a staircase-hall, to both which there is nothing equal in effect in other
City Halls. The Li?ery and Court drawing-rooms, on the first floor, are highly
enriched. The banqueting-room is thus described : —
The Great Hall is 80 feet by 40 feet, length and breadth, and 40 iiset hiah in the centre. An order of
Corinthian tluee-quarter columns, with polished red granite shafts, ana the pedestals and podium of
coloured marbles and granite, surrounds the walls ; the interoolumns befaiff filled in with windows oa
one side, and arch-headed recesses, chiefly for mirrors, on the other, the arcmvolts springing from richly-
ornamented pilasters. Two recesses at the principal end of the hall contahi statues of honoured
members of the Company ; and the centre recess behind the president's chair encloses a h^ff€t to exhibit the
cup of Samuel Pepys, and other plate. At the opposite ena of the hall, behhid the columns, is a galleiy
for iniuidana, appearing as three separate balconies, in the hitercolumns« supported by ornamented
shafts, forming a framework to mirrors. The mirrors can be raised sufflciently to pass in what is
required frx>m the serving-rooms. Above the entablature of the order is a series of lunettes filled with
stained glass ; and the arches over these grohi into a deep cove to the ceilinsr, which last is formed In
one deep panel, divided hito oofliars ornamented with rosettes. The whole of tne upper part of the Hall
ii proftueiv enriched. The spandrel spaces of the cove have alto-riUevos personifying the principal cities
of Great Britain and Ireland: on the sofflts of the arches, over the lunettes in which the stained glass
displays the arms of the Twelve Companies, are the names in each case of a founder of the company in gUt
letters in an ornamented panel ; and the cove is separated from the cornice by a roll moulding enriched wiUi
fruit and fbwers. The chandeliers hang flrom the points of the groining at the summit of the cove. The
decorative features of the upper part of the staircase are clustered Ionic pilasters and archivolts with
enriched mouldings, and the architraves and cornices of the doors, which open on to the landhigi. The
angles of the square plan, pendenthres, or spandrels, Joinhig the square with the octagon, are orna-
mented with shields and branches of foliage. The octagon dome, 27 feet in span, starts firom a bold
cornice with trusses: it is divided into variously-formed compartments by enriched bands, aU the prin-
cipal compartments being glased with ground glass, with a pattern in light blue thereon. At the trai la
a small open lantern. Tne efliBCt of the dome, with the method of lighting, is novel and good, tlie
doors ana Jambe throughout the building arc of polished iiainsoot The architrave mouldings and
oomiees are of pafaited wood, with enriehmants hi earioii^pMnrc—Abridted from the JBiUMer, I860.
410 CUBI08ITIE8 OF LONDON.
Among the charities of the Clothworken are : the " St. Thomas'B Eve gift," dis-
trihuted to one hundred and fifty poor freemen and widows, who are yearly clotiied by
the Company, and regaled with a Christmas dinner. On St. Stephen's Day, is dis-
tribnted the gift of Robert Hitchin, a former member of the Court, by which forty
poor men and women, twelve of the parish of St. Qiles's, Cripplegate, and the rest
free of the Company, are clothed yearly. On St. Luke's Day, the Master and Wardens
of the Company, attended by twenty aged freemen, dothed at the expense of the
Company, agreeably to the will of Sir William Lamb, walk in procession to St.
Michael's church, where a sermon is pnsached suitable to the occasion.
HALLS OF THE lONOB dTT OOHPAKIES.
Of the mxty-nine Minor Companies, nearly half possess Halls. Each Company has its
position in the order of precedence, commencing with the Dyers* and ending with
the Carmen ; but here the arrang^ement is alphabeticaL
Afothsc ABIES' Haxl, in Water-lane, Blackfriars, at the east end of Union-street,
Bridge-street, was built for the Company of Apothecaries, in 1670. Here are several
portraits, including James I., Charles I., William and Mary ; and a bust of Gideon
Delanne, who brought about the separation of the Company from the Grocers'. Ad-
jcMning the Hall are laboratories, warehouses, drug-mills, and a retul shop for the sale of
medicines to the public Here are prepared medicines for the army and navy.
On June 4, 1842, Mr. H. Hennell, the principal chemical operator to the Apothe-
caries' Company, met a terrible deaUi in the laboratory -yard, by the explosion of be-
tween five and six pounds of fulminating mercury, which he was mauufiicturing for the
East India Company.
The Apothecaries rank as the fifty-eighth in the list of City Companies. Their arms
are azure, Apollo in his glory, holding in his left hand a bow, and in his right an
arrow, bestriding the serpent Python; supporters^ two unicorns; crest, a rhinoceros^
all or; motto, Opiferque per orbem dicor,
Aavoubebs' A3n> Bbaziess' Hall, Coleman-street, is a modem building, with a
Doric portico, on the site of the Armourers' old Hall of the Company, incorporated in
1422 by Henry VI., who also became a member. They fonrorly made coats of mail ; and
made and presented a gilt suit of armour to Charles I. when Prince of Wales. In the
bauquGting-ball is Northcote's picture of the Sniry of Richard II. and BoUnghroke
into London^ purchased by the Company from Boydell's Shakespeare Chdlery in 1825.
The Hall is characteristically decorated with armour.
The Compuipr possess ancient Grants, with corioiu aeala, aome dating 600 yean back. Also HS.
Yolnme. containing the marks allowed to the workmen Armonrers' fireemen of the Company, dated 1619;
the Richmond Cup and Cover, gilt, about 1460, an invalaable example of early art ; the large Mazer
Bowl, given between 1460 and 148S, by Everard Frere (the first Master, after incorporation of the Com-
pany ; an Owl Pot of stone, with silver moontingB, temp. 15th centu^; a parcel-gilt Pot, 1574 : a Salt
and Cover, with initials, 1604— a fine specimen of early plate ; three elegant Wine Caps; a nnione coQeo-
tion of ancient Spoons, ranghig firom 1680 to the middle of the 17tli century. Here is likewise a
collection of six dozen Apostles' Spoons, datmg from 1560 to 1690, showing the duuigea in fiaahion ;
also the Forbidden Ghmntlet (of great rarity) imd other Cups.
Baeebs' Hali^ No. 16, Harp-lane, Great Tower-street, is on the mte of the ancient
mansion of John Chicheley, Chamberlain of London, and nephew of Archbishop
Chicheley. Among the pictures in the wainscoted iHinqueting-hall is one of St.
Clement, patron of the Company, incorporated by Edward II. in 1807. The Hall was
lastrepured by James Elmes, who wrote the Memoirs oj Sir Christopher Wren.
Baebeb-Subgeoks' Hall, Monkwell-street, has its semicircular end supported on a
bastion of the City Wall, and was built a few years after the Great Fire, which
destroyed the original Hfdl : the street entrance had a shell canopy, enriched with the
Company's arms, and festoons of fruits and flowers : this picturesque entrance has been
removed. The Theatre of Anatomy, built by Inigo Jones, in 1636, escaped the Great
Fire, through being detached.
" The room contained four degrees of oedsr seats, one above another, in ellipttcal fonn, adorned
HALL-^BABBEB-8UEGE0N8'. 411
with flfnnes of the seven Liberal Sciences, the twelve signs of the Zodiac, and a bust of King Charles L
The roof was an elliptical cupola. This, as Walpole calls it, 'one of the best of Jones's works,' was
repaired in the reign of George I. by the Earl of Burlington, and was pulled down in the latter end of
tlie last century, and sold for the value of the materials. ' The designe of the Chirurgeons' Theatre^*
an oval, dated 1636^ is preserved in the portfolio of Jones's drawings at Worcester College, Oxford."—*
Itft, by P. Cunningham ; printed for the Shakspeare Sodetv.
The United Company of barbers and surgeons were first incorporated by Edward IV ., hi 1401-2 ; and
it would even seem thaL of the two professions, that of barber was. at this period, considered the most
respectable ; at, least, if we may Judge from their adopting, and petitioning to be distinguished by,
the style and title of the Mastery qf JBarben. The barber-surgeons, through whose inmiediate in-
flaence the charter was obtuned from the king, were Thomas Monestede, sheriff of London in 1486L
and chirurgeon to Kings Henry IV.. Y., and VI.; Jaques Fries, phvsidan to Edward IV.; and
William Hobbe, "physician and ohirnrgeon for the same king's body/'— Jesse's Zondon and Ha
CeUbritiet,
In 1512, an Act was patted to prevent any bendea barbers practising inrgery within
the City and seven miles round, excepting such as were examined by the Bishop of
London or Dean of St. Panrs, or their asristants. In 1540 they were nnited into one
corporate body ; but all persons practising shaving were forbidden to intermeddle with
Borgery, except to draw teeth and let blood ; whence Barber-Surgeons.
The Rev. John Ward, vicar of Stratford-upon-Avon 1662 to IBSJL, relates that when
be came to London, he lodged at the Bell, in Aldersgate-street, " to be near Barber-
Chirnrgeons* Hall,'' then the only place in the metropolis where anatomical lectures
were publicly delivered.
In the Court'Toom, which has an enriched ceiling. Is Holbein's celebrated picture of King Hourj
vIII. presenting the Charter to the Company. This painting is 10 fl^t 6 inches long and 7 ffeet hi|m,
contains 18 figures, nearly life-sise, and represents a room in the palace hung with tapestry. In the
centre, on a throne, sits the King, seemingly thrusting the Charter into the hands uf Master Thomas
Vicay, who receives it kneeling; the King's costume and ornaments are as fine as miniature-painting.
Around him are the members of the Court kneeling: Sir John Chambre, in a cap and ftarred gown;
the famous Dr. Butts, whose conduct in the scene in the plaj of JSetmi vIIL of the degradation or
Cranmer, while waiting at the door of the council-chamber, is so well ovawn by Shakspeare. All the
beadi are finely executed; the flowered and embroidered robes, gold chains. Jewels, and rings of the
diinirffeons, their moustaches and beards, are most ciuefhlly painted. Seven of the figures are livery-
men of the Company. Every part of the picture is most elaborately and delicately finished ; the colour-
m is chaste, and the care and style of the whole admirable. Pepys tried, after the Great Fire, to buy
thU picture, " by the help of Mr. Pierce (a surgeon), for a little money. I did think," he adds, ** to
give 2002. for it, It being said to be worth lOOOt. : but it is so spoiled that I have no mhid to it, and is
not a pleasant though a good picture."— 2>i<u:y, 29th Aug. 1668.
Ject, which lies on a table partly covered with a sheet Next are portraits of Dr. Arris and Dr. Thomas
Arris, and Dr. Nehemiah Grew. Here, too, is a curious portrait of Mr. Lisle, barber to Charies II. s
and of John Pateraon, clerk to the Company, and the prqjector of several improvements in the City of
London after the Great 9\n.-~AMdgedJrom tk4 AH-Unitm, 1839.
Holbmn's pictnre was painted in the 82nd of Henry YIII., when were nnited the
Barbers and Surgeons, formerly separate companies, which they again became in 1746 ;
tbe Surgeons then removed to their Hall in the Old Bfuley, and subsequently into
the Royal College in Linooln's-inn-fields. {See Collboea, p. 279.) Holbein's picture
has been engraved by Baron, and the minutes of the Company have the following entry
oonceming the print :^
" 27th August, 1734.— Copper plate of Holbein's picture ordered of Mr. Baion, for
150 guineas,^50 guineas on finishing the drawing, 60 guineas on delivery of the plate»
and 50 guineas on 100 prints."
As an evidence of the estimation in which the picture was held by oontemporarieB,
Mr. Pettig^rew quotes a letter from King James to the Company which runs thus :—
" JAns R.— Trusty and wellbeloved, we greet you well. Whereas we are hiformed of a table of
Panting in your Hall, wherein is the picture of our predecessor of Amous memory, King Henry YIU.,
tofrether witn divers of your Company, wJUck being very like JUwt, and well dome^ we are desirooa to have
copied : wherefore our pleasure is tliat you presently deliver it unto this bearer, our wellbeloved ser-
vant Sir Lionel Cranfleld Kn^bt, one of our masters of reouests, whom we have commanded to receive
It of you, and to see it with all expedition copied, and redelivered safely ; and so we bid you farewell.-*
Given at our court at Newmarket the 13th day of January, 1617."
The original cartoons from which this picture was punted are in existence. The
portraits were taken on four portions of paper, which are now in the possession of the
Hoyal College of Surgeons, and have been put together and made to form a picture.
Among the Barber-Surgeons' Plate is: 1. A Silver-gilt Cup. given by Henry YHI. hi 1640: It It
richly finboiscd with the rose^ fleur-dS'lys, and portcullis, and lions' masks, in the style of Holbein
412 CURIOSITIES OF LONDON.
from the bowl hang bellfl, aad iiuide are the Company'i trms. 2. A SOver Cap, wtth Gorerp gfren in
I67B by Charles II.; the stem and bowl an oak-tree, with foor pendent acoma, and the lid the Bofal
crown ; royal badges, the Company's anna, &o. 8. Two Chaplets, with perforated silver oak-folii^
borders, the Company's arms, Ac.; besides a large chased ulver Ponch-bowl, presented by Qoesn
Anne; several tanKards,ftc.
Pepys wrote of theSUTer-gllt Cop, 1623-23 :— "To ChTmrgeons* Hall, where we had a fine dinner
and good learned company, many doctors of phy^oe, ana we used with extraordinary great respect.
Among other observables, we drank the King's health oat of a gUt oap given bv Henry VIII. to this
Company, with bells hangbig at it, which every man is to ring by shaking after he hath drank np the
Whole cap.** The Company sold ^is cap with other plate in tiie 17th oentnry to boild their hall, botp
as Mr. Fettigrew pointed oat, it was parchased by Edward Arris (Master of the Company in 1661), and
presented by him again to the Company.
The Barber-Sargeons are exempt* as formerly, from sendng as constables or on the
nightly watch, on juries, inquests, attaints, or recognisances. After the separation of
the two professions, the barbers continued to let blood (whence the pole) and draw
teeth until our time : the latest we remember of this class, and with pain, was one
Hiddleditch, in Oreat Suffolk-street* Southwark, in whose window were displayed heaps
of drawn teeth.
Blacksmithb' H^i* Lambeth-hill, Doctors' Commons, is now let as a warehouse;
the Company's business bdng transacted at Cutlers' Hall.
Bbewbbs' Hall, No. 19, Addle-street* Wood-street, Cheapside, is a modern edifice,
and contains among other pictures a portrait of Dame Alice Owen, who narrowly
escaped braining by an archer's stray arrow from Islington fields, in gratitude for
which she founded a hospital. {See Almshouses, p. 8.) In the Hall windows is
some old piunted glass. The Brewers were incorporated in 1438. The quarterage in
this Company is paid on the quantity of malt consumed by its members. In 1851, a
handsome schoolhouse was built for the Company, in Trinity-square, Tower-hilL
In 14S2» Whittington laid an information before his saccessor in the Mavoral^, Bobert Childe,
against the Brewers Companv, for selling dMr aU, when they were convicted in the penalty of ac£.;
and the Masters were ordered to be kept in prison in the Chamberlain's custody, ontil they paid it.
Among the records of the Brewerr Company is one relative to the introduotioa of pewter pots as
measares for ale, and the " sealing" (or stamping) of them by the City magistrates. There is an entry
in one of them made on the authority of Bobert Chicheley, Mayor, in 1423, in the reign of Henzy ▼!. : —
" That retailers of ale should sell the same in their houses in pots of peutre, sealed and open ; and that
whoever carried ale to the purchaser should hold the pot in one hand and a cup In the other, and that
all who had pots unsealed snould be fined.
Bbicelatebs' Hall, behind No. 53, Leadenhall-street* is now let as a Synagogue
for Dutch Jews. The Tilers and Bricklayers were incorporated by Queen Elizabeth,
in 1568. There are preserved by the Company two chests full of papers, descriptive
of their craft. They appear to have been at various periods embrG^eid with the Car-
penters as to the respective merits of brick and tunber buildings. '
" In 1647, the Carpenters sent a remonstrance to the Court of Aldermen concerning the Bricklayera.
and in 1650 they conveyed ' their reasons that tymber buildings were more oommomous for this citie
than brick buildings were.' In the following year, on 18th of February, they spent 2«. M. at the Three
Tuns in Gratious-etreet, with the Masters and Wardens of the Bricluaycrs' Companv, to settle some
of their difi'ereuces. After the Great Fire, instead of further squabbling, the two Companies united
against " fforreyne " workmen being allowed to work in the City as masters : all who were not freemen
were ** fibrreyners." By an Act ofthe Common Council, in Nov. 1667. the Brioklavers' Company (as
well as others) were bound to elect yearly a certain numoer of men to oe ready on aU occasions of fire
to attend the Lord Mayor and Sheriffs for quenching the same.
" In the earliest minute-book, 1680, nearly all the members of the Court made their 'mark,* instead of
writing their name ; and these marlcs are not simply a cross or an initial, but are similar to those to be
seen on the fiice of stones in old buildings in England, France, Germany, and fi<dgium. One Order,
passed on St. Lawrence's day, 1691, decrees ' that noe man shall reveale words spoken in the boose.'
In the charter and oaths, dated 1684^ it is ordered that no person shall be a liveryman who holds not
communion with the Church of England, or who ' frequents conventicles or any other unlawful meet-
ings !' There is one deed addressed to Sir Nicholas Bacon and others, containing stipulations as to
the trade, which gives them the right of claiming a farthing per thousand on all bricks made within
a certain distance. In the reign of George I. (1723) power was given to the company to fine those who
made bricks or tiles of bad earth. In one of the chests there is the early French edition of Serlio^
1651. and a black-letter Bible and chain.— Note, in Builder, No. 606.
BuTCHEBs' Hall, Pudding-lane, Eastcheap, was rebuilt after a fire in 1829, which
destroyed the old Hall. The Butchers were fined by Henry II., in 1180, for setting
up an unlicensed guild; but they were not incorporated till 1605, by James I.
Cabpektebs' Hall, on the southern side of London Wall, is one of the few City
Halls which escaped the Great Fire, which snrrounded it.* The Hall was originally
hailt in 1429 : the walls of old London laced it, and beyond were Moorfields, Finsbury,
and open ground. The exterior possesses no traces of antiquity. The Conrt-rooms
were built in 1664, and the principal staircase and entrance-hall by W. Jnpp about
1780 : the latter is richly decorated with bas-relieft of carpentiy figures and imple-
ments ; with beads of Yitruyius, PaUadio, Inigo Jones, and Wren, designed by Bacon |
and the street archway has also a fine bust of Inigo Jones, by Bacon.
The Ghreat Hall hais a rich and beautiful ceiling, put up in 1716, the supporting
piBars springing iVom the corbels of the old arched timber roof. On the western side^
surmounted by an embattled oak beam, is a series of four fresco paintings, which were
discovered in 1845 by a workman in repuring the Hall. The subjects are divided by
colamns painted in (^temper : the g^undwork is laths, with a thick layer of brown
earth and clay held together ¥dth straw, and a layer of Ume, upon which the paintings
are executed.
The anbJecU are : 1. Noah receiving the commands from the Almighty for the ooDstmcaon of the
Ark; in another portion of the pictore are Noah's three 8(ms at work. 2. King Joeiah ordering the
repair of the Temple. (2 Kings chap. xxiL. mentioning earpenttn and bnilders and masons as having
no reckoning of xaxausj made with tnem, " becaoee they dealt fldthfhllv.") S. Joseph at work as a car>
pent«r,the8avioar aa a boy gathering the chips; Mary spinning with the distaif :t the figure of Joseidi
represents that In AlbOTt Dnrer's woodcut of the same incident executed in 1511. 4. Chnst teaching in
the Synagogue : *' Is not this the earpentar't son ?" Each painting lias a black-letter inscrittion, more or
less perfect The figures are of the school of Holbein ; the coetumes are Ump. Henry V ill« Above the
pictures in the span£«l of the arch, are painted the Company's arms, and " shreevea" and " liobard" of an
tascxiptton remain, intimating it to commemorate the benefit of some sherifb. The southern wall has
some decorative Elizabethan work. The eastern window has carved oak mullions and Bena»9$ane« baseSi
and has some armorial painted glass, date 1686. There are a few carved wooden panels, besides the series
ofoorbelSt some of good workmanship.—^. W, FairkoU, FJSjL,
The east window is punted with the Boyal arms ; the City arms, 1&86 ; and the names
of the Masters and Wardens of the Company, from 1627 to 1684.
After the G^reat Fire, the Hall was let to the Drapers', Goldsmiths', Felt-makers^
and Weavers' Companies; and next, the Lord Mayors, Sir W. Bolton, Sir W. Peeke,
Sir W. Turner, and Sir S. Sterling, rented the Hall during their mayoralties.
The books of the Company contain many entries connected with the impressment of
workmen for the service of the Crown. Amongst the latest instances is this : — " 1668,
22nd July — Spent with Sir John Denham, the King's surveyor, and others, about the
twelve carpenters charged to be impressed for the King's work at Whitehall, 35«. 6d,**
The Carpenters' Company's earliest charter is dated 1174 ; their common seal and
grant of arms 1466; but a guild of carpentry is noticed in 1421-2. The earliest
entry in the Company's books is dated 1438 : ^ey contain many prooft of their power
over the trade. Among the pictures are portraits of William Portington, master car«
penter to the Crown temp, Elizabeth and James I. ; and John Scott, ordnance carpen-
ter and carriage-maker temp, Charles IL The company also possess four very curious
caps or crowns (the oldest 1561), still used by the Master and Wardens. Among their
plate are three silver-gilt hanape (1611, 12, 28), which are borne in procession round
the Hall on Election-day. Cakes are presented to the members of the Court on
Twelfth Day, and xibbon-money to them on Lord Mayor's Day. (See An SLittorieal
Account of th0 Company, by E. Basill Jopp, Clerk* 1849.)
The custom of crowning the new Master and Wardens still exists in the Company,
and the crowns or garlands used for the purpose are the same which were in their
possession nearly three centuries ago. It was customary at one time for the Company
to invite certain official personages to the entertainment on the election day. The
King's Carpenter was a constant guest on that occasion and on others. The King's
Surveyor also frequently honoured the Company with his presence, and in this capacity
the books show that Sir Christopher Wren received an invitation to dinner together
with his wife.
* Carpenten^ Hall was also nearly deatroTed In a great iire^ Oet. 6^ 1840, when the end walls and
windows were homed oat, and the staircase and roof mooh damaged ; while the homing boildinar was
OUT separated from Drapers' Hall by the garden and foreooort
t Nash, the Elizabethan satiriat, mentions the chips "which Christ in Carpenters' Hall ia pajnted
Swhorii^ op, at Joteph hia fkther atrewea, having a piece of timber, and Mary his mother sltta spin-
414 OUniOSFTIES OF LONDON.
Amongr the dunontiea poweaied by the Ganenten are :— Qnnt of Anns to the Gompanyp bj WiUiaoi
Hawkealowe, CUrendeux, dtked Not. 24^ 6 Edward lY. Book of OrdhiaDces, 16th centorr ; oontaining^y
alfo, the marks or devices used bv the varioas Masters and Wardens of the Company. The Crowns oT
the Master and three Wardens (date 1661). The Master's onp is of crimson silk, embroiderMl with
£ld and rilver laoe. On it are represented, in silver shields, the arms of the Ci<7 of London (with
te 1661) and the Ourpenters' (Company, enamelled in proper oolonrs ; the Merchsata* mark, and
Initials of John Tryll, Master in 1661, are also on the cap. The Crowns of the Three Wardens are
Tery similar to the Master's, and are of the same date. Three Wardens' Caps, of similar design ;
these cups show the change in covers to plate drinking vessels, being no longer essential as a means
for avoiding poison. The Masters' Cap (date 1611), is silver-gilt, and of elegant worlnnanahip and
design. The Beadle's Staff, which is said to be the handsomest possessed by any of the C^ty companies,
is of silver, and consists of a sooare plUar and four shields, with the Company's arms and motto ; it
Is dated 1726. Here also is a Possett or Candle (Xip, sapposed to have been used in the flunitiw of
the Company on interesting occasions.
CoACHMAKXBS' Hall» Koble-street, Foster-lane, was originally built for the
Scriveners' Company, who, fBlling into poverty, sold it to the Coachmakers, origfin&Uy
incorporated by Charles II., in 1669, as the Coach and Coach- Harness Makers. The
Company hold Industrial Exhibitions to encourage the workmen in the almost endless
branches of the coach trade to exhibit the best specimens of manufacturing skill, the
best working drawings of the vehicles now most in vogue, and the best designs far
improving their general convenience and simplifying their mechanical contrivances.
Coachmakers* Hall was noted in the last oentnry as the resort of " a kind of religioas Bobin Hood
Society, which met everr Sandav evening for free debate." (Boswell's JioAiuofi.) Bat the most
memorable meeting ever held in toe Hall was on May 27, 1780, when the whole body of the Protestant
Association, by formal resolation, undertook to attend in St. George's Fields, on Jane 2Dd, to accom-
pany Lord George Gordon to the Hoose of (Commons on the delivery of the Protestant petition." The
association aooordingly met ; the result was "the Biots of 1780," and a week's defiance of all govern-
ment. The flowers of rhetoric, however, continued long to bloom in Coachmakers' Hall. John
Britton, in his early days (1796), Joined a debating society held here.
CooPEBS' Hau^ Basinghall-street^ was handsomely built, and had a large wains-
coted bonqueting-room. The Coopers' Company was incorporated by Henry VII. in
1501 ; and Henry YIII. empowered them to search and gauge beer, ale, and soap
vessels in the City and two miles round, at a farthing for each cask. At Coopers*
Hall were formerly drawn State Lotteries; the drawing of the last Lottery, on
October 18, 1826, is described in Hone's Every-day Book, vol. ii. Coopers' Hall was
taken down in 1866 for the enlargement of the site for the Ouildhall offices.
COBDWAINEBS' Hall, Great Distaff-lane, Friday-street, is the third of the same
Company's halls on this site, and was built in 1788 by Sylvanus Hall : the stone front,
by Adam, has a sculptured medallion of a country girl spinning with a distafl^ emble-
matic of the name of the lane, and of the thread of cordwainers or shoemakers ; in
the pediment are their arms. In the hall are portraits of King Willium and Queen
Mary ; and here is a sepulchral nm and tablet, by Nollekens, to John Came, a munifi-
cent benefactor to the Company.
The Cordwainers were originally incorporated by Benry lY. in 1410, as the "Cordwainers and Oob^
hlen" Hie latter then signifying dealers in shoes and shoemakers. In the reii^i of Richard 11.^
" every cordwainer that shod any man or woman on tiie Sunday, to pay thirtie shillings." Among the
Company's plate is a piece for which Camden the antiquary left 16Z. Their charities include Game's
beouests for blind, deaf, and dumb persons, and clergymen's widows, 1000/. yearly; and, in 1662, tlie
Bell Inn at Edmonton was bequeathed for poor freemen of the Compsiiy.
The Cordwainers possess some curious old plate, and a charter, m which the name of Shakspear^
1^ a party interested, occurs.
CiTBBiKSS' Hall, London Wall, was originally built in 1670 : the banqoeting>rooin
had a Corinthian wainscot screen, with carvings, and paintings of Plenty, Justice, and
Temperance. Here Calamy's son, in the reign of Charles I., preached every Sunday,
to a little flock of Dissenters. This Hnll, which stood among goodly trees, was taken
down in 1820, and a smaller edifice erected upon part of the site, the reminder being*
covered with private dwellings. The Curriers serve their wine after dinner in mag-
nums, upon carved vine-leaf stands ; and the toasts are preceded by a prolonged whistle
on a small instrument, not emitting more than one note. The Curriers combined as a
Guild so early as 1363. Sir Matthew Wood, twice Lord Mayor, was of this Company.
Ctttlehs' Hall is in Cloak-lane, Dowgate-hill. The Cutlers maintained a dispute
with the Goldsmiths before Parliament in 1405. They were originally forgers of
blades, or bladers, makers of bafts, and sheath -makers, united as cutlers by Henry IV»
in 1425. In the Hall is a portrait of Mrs. Craythome, who, in 1568, bequeathed the
HALL8^DYEB8', FOUNDERS', GIBBLEEff, JOINERS', 415
Belle Sanvage Inn, on Ludgate-hill, to the Cntlen, for charitable purposes. Here an
old hoose bcairs the Company's crest, secdptnred in stone^ and placed within a niche—
an elephant bearing a castle on its back. CotlerB' Hall was taken down in 1854, and
rebnilt.
Dyers' Hali^ College-street, Upper Thames-street, was boilt about 1776, and re-
built 1857. The Dyers were incorporated in 1472 ; th&r andent Hall, in Upper Thames-
street (upon the site of Dyers' Hall Wharf), was destroyed in the Great Fire.
The Djen and Ylntnen are the only Companlaa who hat« the prifflege qf iMefing 9won$ on ike
Thamu: to eatoh and take up which, " Swan-voyagea." termed 8»aw-miiig, are made in Aogns^
when the CTgneta are marked, and the marks on the old bird renewed. The marks are cat npcm the
Qnper mandiUe^ in the presence of the Bojal Swsnherd. lima, the swan-mark of the Yintners is two
mcks, mobably intended for a demi-lozenge on each side^ and v for a chevron reversed. Besides being
heraldio^ that these swan-marks have the iniUal of the word " ^ntner" and form also the Roman
nomeral Y, is supported Ij one of the regolar stand-np toasts of the dar being, " The Worshipftil
Company of Ylnmers, with Five 1" The swans are not so nnmerons as formerly; at one period the
Yintners done possessed 600 birds; the male ia called a Cob, the female a Pfo. (A. J. Kewtpt, F.S^.)
Tlic swanherds wear swan-foaUiers in their cu)e, and the upmngg are still held; thqr were formerly
made t>y the Compuiiea in thdr state-barges, with moch festivity.
Embsoidbbsbs' Hall, Qutter-lane, Cheapude. Company incorporated in 1561.
FouNDBBs' Hall, Founders'-court, Lothbury, is now a Dissenters* meeting-house^
Stow tells us that " Lothbnme, Lathberrie, or Loadberrie, is possessed for the most
part by founders, that cast candlesticks, chafing-dishes, spice mortars, and such like
copper and laten works, and do afterwards turn them with the foot and not with the
wheel, to make them smooth and bright with turning and scrating (as some do term
it), making a loathsome noise to the by-passers, that have not been used to the like^
and therefore by them disdainfully called Loth-berie." The Company of Founders
was incorporated by letters patent of the 12th of King James I., a.d. 1614. " All
makers of brass weights are to have each weight marked by the Company's standard,
and such of these weights as are of avcnrdupois weight to be sealed at the Gmldhall of
this aty, and those of troy weight at Goldsmiths' Hall.*' Chamberhun (1770) says, " It
is not only used for transacting the business of the Company, but likewise let out to a
congregation of Scotch Kirk, cf which denomination there is but one other in England."
FoDndm* Hall was, in 1792, nicknamed " the cauldron of sedition." Here Waithmaa
made his first political speech, and, with his fellow-orators, was routed by constables sent
by the Lord Mayor, Sir James Sanderson, to disperse the meeting. The Company's
motto is **QoA the only Founder." They possess a beautiful glass cup on a
alver-^t stem, taken at the siege of Boulogne, in the reign of Henry YIII., and be-
queath to the Company by Richard Wesley, Master in 1681.
GisBLBBs* Hall, No. 89, Bannghall-street, was rebuilt after the Great Yiie, on the
lite of the Company's andent Hall. The Girdlers* or Girdle-makers' Company was
inoarpomted by Henry VI. in 1449, confirmed by Elizabeth, in 1658, and then united
with the Piimers and Wire-drawers. The gridiron or ffirdle-iron. in their arms is
thought to be a rebus on the Company's name. (See Thoms's Stow, p. 107.) The
Company possess a document, dated 1464^ by which Edward IV. confirmed the privi-
leges granted to them by Richard II. and Ekiward III., among which was the follow-
mg : — In the girdles then worn, silver and copper were used in their fabrication and
embroidery, and power was gfiven to the Company to seize all girdles found within the
City walls with spurious metals. At the annual Election, the Clerk of the Company
crowng the Master ¥dth a crown embrddered in g^ld on silk with the GKrdlers* devices j
and the Masters with three andent caps ; whereupon they pledge their subjects in a
loving cup of Rhenish wine— a picturesque andent ceremonial.
Ikvholdesb' Hall, College-street, Upper Thames-street, was rebuilt after the
Great Fire : the Company incorporated 1516.
JoiirsBs' Hall, between Nos. 79 and 80, Upper Thames-street, has entrance gate-
way piers of good workmanship, with leaden statues of river gods on them. There is
also a handsome cornice, with neat window frames and pediment enriched ; while the
Company's crest (a demi-savage, life-size, wreathed about the head and wwst with oak-
leaves) surmounts the entrance to the Hall, In 1771, the building was described as
416 OUBI08ITIE8 OF LONDON.
"remarkably carioos, for a magnifioent Bcreen at the entering into the hall-room
having demi^savages, and a variety of other enrichments carved in the right wainscot.
The g^reat parlour is wainscoted with cedar." It is recorded that, in 1827, "the
Joiners' Company have a capital painting over the chimney of their Court of Asastants'
parlour, of a former court of assistants, small whole-lengths."
Leathxbsellebs' Hall, St. Helen's-pbce, Bishop8gate>street, was rebuilt about
1816, upon the site of the Company's old Hall, a portion of the hall of St. Helen's
Priory, taken down in 1799; it was wainscoted, had a curiously-carved Elizabethan
screen, and an enriched ceiling with pendants. Beneath the present Hall is the priory
crypt. (See p. 308.) In the Hall yard is a pump sculptured by Caius Gabriel
Cibber in 1679, in payment to the Company of his livery fine of 25^. : the design, a
mermaid pressing her breasts, is very characteristic. The crypt, kitchen, and pump,
are engpraved by J. T. Smith. The Leathersellers were incorporated by Richard II. in
1442 ; and by a grant from Heniy VII., the Wardens were empowered to inspect sheep,
lamb, and calf-leather throughout the kingdom.
Mabovs' Hall is in Maaons'-alley, between Basinghall-street and Coleman-street
The Masons, with whom arc united the Marblers, were incorporated about 1410 as " the
Free Masons," and received their arms in 1474 ; incorporated' 1677. ,
PAiKTES-STAnnEBS' Hall, Little Trinity-lane, Upper Thames-street, occupies the
nte of the old Hall, destroyed in the Great Fire. The Painters, otherwise Painter-
stainers* Company, had its origin in a fraternity of artists formed in the reign of
Edward III., and styled a company, though not then incorporated. Tltoy caUed them-
selves Painter-«^at}ier«, from their chief employment, which, in the words of Pennant,
was " the stuning or painting of glass, illuminating missals, or paintins: of portatif or
other altars, and now and then a portrait ; witness that of Richard II., and the por-
tndts of the great John Talbot and his iidfe, preserved at Castle Ashby." In the year
1575, continues Pennant, "they found that plaisterers, and aU sorts of unskilful
persons, intermeddled in thar business, and brought their art into disrepute by the
badness and slightness of their work." They, therefore, determined <*to keep their
mystery pure from all pretenders," and were incorporated by Queen Elizabeth in 1582,
but existed long before as a guild. Hatton describes them as Face-Painters, History*
.Painters, Arms- Painters, and House-Piunters, and of the panels of the wainscot and
ceiling of their Hall, as " imbellished with g^reat variety of History and other Paintore
exquisitely performed," &c. Stow, vrriting before the Great Fire, identifies them on
their present site of habitation, or in 1598, saying, — ** In Trinity-lane, on the west mde
thereof, is the Painter-stainers' Hall, for so, of old time, were they called, but now that
workmanship of staining is departed out of use in England."
In Palnteri' Hall tiie Belief Commission of the Plagme met, in the days of Charles IT., recorded in
John Evelyn's Diani^ nnder dates Nov. 18, 1664^ aud July 3, 1666 ; while on July ^ in the Utter year,
he says he went to the Lord Chancellor " to desire ye ose of ye Star Chamber for oar Commissioners to
meete in. Painters' Hall not being so convenient." Evelyn's letter to Sir Thomas Clifford is (bied
"Paynters' HaU, Lond., 16 June, 1666."
Among their minutes are orders to compel faniga painters resident in London to pay
fines for practising their art without being free of the Painter-stainers' Company. Inigo
Jones and Vandyck were asked together to their dinners, as appears by an entry in tbo
Company's books. (X^ftf, by P. Cunningham : Shakspeare Society.) Camden, whose father
was a Painter-stainer in the Old Bailey, bequeathed the Company 16^. to buy a silver cup,
to be inscribed : " Gul. Camdenus, Clarencieuz, filius Sampsonis, Pictoris Londinensis,
dono dedit;" which cup is used at every Election-feast on St. Luke's day. Yerrio and
Sir Godfrey Eneller belonged to the Company, as did Sir James Thomhill, Sir Joshua
Reynolds; and Charles Catton was master of the Painter-stainers' Company in 1784; he
was known for his heraldic painting, more especially for his emblazonment of the Lord
Mayor's state coach.
Amongst the Company's pictures are— St. Luke writing his Gospel, by Tan Somer; Reason governing
Strength, C. Catton, B.A. ; Landscape by Lambert, with figures by Hoguth: Queen Anne (roedailion), by
f eilot ; the Fire of Loudon, by Waggoner ; Charles 1., copied firom Vandyke, by Stone : Charles 1 1, ana his
Sneen, by Huysman ; Queen Anne,by Dahl ; William III., by Kneller ; Camden, In his tabard, as Claren-
euz. Architecture by Trivett, or TreTlt, Master in 1713 ; and some works of Hondiua, Baptist, Sebas-
tian Bicd, Smirke^ BA., Hooseman, Hals, and others. There is a portrait of Camden hn the Hall, from
HALL—FAJBI8H GLEBES'. 417
*
which an enamd was copied bj the late H. Bone, B.A., for hie Elizabeth Oalleiy. A card of invitation
to ** accompanj the Society of Painters, at St Lake's Feast, kept on Thursday, ye 2-lth November, 1687,
at 12 of the dock, in Pavnter Stayners' Hall, where yoa shall oe entertained by as," and si^ed "An-
thony Yerrio, Nicnolas Shepherd, Godfrey Kneller," and ** Ed. Polehampton. Stewards," was designed
br Sir Godfrey Kneller ; and of this an engraving is in the Hall. The Painters' Company gave the first
ktea for a Royal Academy, and in the present centniv they have set the laudable example of reviving the
** art and mystery," so long laid aside by the other City guilds. In 1800, ihej gave tne first of a series
of annual exhibitions of Works of Decorative Art, by bestowing prizes on skilful artisans.
The Charities of the Company are chiefly to the blind ; amongst them is Mr. John Stock's " Charity of
Floor Lame Painters, more or less incapacitated from illness arising flrom the ii^urioos effects of Painters'
colours, who receive pensions of 102. per annum." The Company also assist diseased and paralyskl
Painters in going to Bath to drink the waters.
Pabish-glebks' Hall, No. 24^ Silver-street, Wood-street, is tbe third hall of the
Company. In the seventeenth year of Henry III., A.D. 1233, the Parish Clerks
became an incorporated guild as " The Fraternity of St. Nicholas," and " so excelled
in church muuc, that la^es and men of quaUty on this account became members."
In 1391, the Fftrish Clerks performed miracle plays at Skinners' Well. Henry VI.
was the head of the Parish Clerks' patrons, as appears by a MS. vellum roll in their
possession, dating from 1440 to 1525. From this MS. there was one leaf missing,
which has fortunately been recovered : it contains about 400 bames, and has an illumi-
nated initial ; date of first entiy 1523.
The Camden Society have published the curious Diary of Kenry MacMn, who
appears to have been in that department of the trade of a Merchant-Tailor, which
we should now call an xmdertaker or furnisher of funerals. The banners, &C., which
he provided were probably painted by men who worked as hia journeymen.
Under date 1666, there is a curious entry : — ** The xxvij. day of Hav was the Clarke's prosses^yon from
Terdhali College, and ther was a goodly masse be hard, evere darke having a cope and a garhuide
Important societv, and many ecclesiastics, and other persons of the first quality, both male and female,
were of the nninDer of their members. They attended all great fhnerals, at which their office was im-
mediately to precede the hearse, with their surplices hanghig on their arms, and singing solemn dirges
all the way till they came to the church door. Their firatemlty had the sole direction ox the music em-
ployed in public worship."— <:temwell's CUrkenmtU,
Previous to the year 1560, the Parish Clerks met in the Chapel at Guildhall, for
evea-Bong, and on the next day to dinner at Carpenters^ Hall ; but two years after
this, they met in their own Hall, receiving seven persons into their brotherhood, and
attending " a goodly play of the children of Westminster, with waits, regals, and
iinglng." The Parish Clerks commenced the '< Bills of Mortality," in 1592; and in
January, 1611, James I. re-incorporated them, in consequence of their brotherhood
having been dissolved, and thdr hall and property seized. Besides this re-inoorpora-
tioQ, they were, about 1625, licensed by the Star Chamber to keep a printing-press in
thdr hall, for the printing of the " Bills," which they were bound to make up each
week, consisting of the births and burials, with some account of the diseases, age, &c,
of the persons dymg. During the Great PUgue, these " Bills" were very, important ;
they are still to be seen in the Guildhall Library, as well as others, dating from 1657
to 1758. The "Weekly Bill" has long ceased to be issued from Parish Qerks* Hall,
and in its pUce (since July 1, 1837), the « Table of Mortality in the Metropolis"
^ been issued Ax>m the office of the Registrar-General, at Somerset House. The
first Hall was at the sign of tbe Angel, in Bishopsgato-street, with seven almshouses
for poor widows adjoining ; the second stood in Broad-lane, Yintry ; and the present
Hall was erected after the Great Fire. Their organ, purchased in 1737> b placed in
the Court-room. They have a few portraits of beneikctors, among which a^^ears that
of William Roper, son-in-law of the celebrated Sir Thomas More. The east window
18 emblazoned with the arms of Charles II. ; and here are two small portraits : David
pci^^orming on the harp ; and St. Cecilia at the organ, accompanied by angels.
The Company have a coat-of-anns, with a motto, *' JTwUm 8ocUiaH» SiabOUtu'* (Unity the StabUitv
or Bodety). They have a row of neat almshouses for the widows or danghteis of their deceased
nethren, situated on the south side of Denmark-road, Camberwell.
.. ji^cir privileMs exempt the Clerks from all pori^ offices, except that of their official duty as Clerk t
{w Charter aUows them to administer admission-oaths, to have a printer and printinr-press in their
■su, and to frame all rules necessary fbr their sovemment ; to elect a Master, two Waracns, and seven*
seen Assistants ; but it does not oonfier upon them a Livery, nor hereditary nor City Freedom.
418 CURIOSITIES OF LONDON.
-^ , _
There was formerly published a very useful sort of Clerical Quide to the Parishes
within the Bills of Mortality, " collected by the Ck>mpaiiy of Parish Clerks^" whose
arms the volume bears.
Pbwtebebs' Hall^ No. 17« Lime-street, contains a portrait of Sir William Small-
wood, Master of the Company in the second year of Henry VII., and who gave them
their Hall, &c. The Pewterers were incorporated in 1474 : they assay pewter-waie,
and use a mark, or ioueh, registered on a pewter-plate. The Hall was formerly let for
lectures; and here Macklin, the actor, commenced his ''school of oratory and
criticism," lecturing in full-dress* but to be laughed at by Foote and other wits.
From the records of Uie Pewteren' Company (mnch older than the Brewers' record as dsted)p we
find that the name of that iraild was spelt Peatr's Co.. so that the authorized pots originated in Heniy
VI.'s time were made of pewter metal. (St* ami*, p. 412.) Up to the present day, the name of the oflSeer
appointed by the City Lands Committee to stamp the pablicaos' pots and brand the wooden measores
Is ^ Sealer and Stamper in Weights snd Measores."
PnncAEEBB' Hall, Pinners'-eourt, Old Broad-street, is on the tote of part of the
Priory of St. Augustine, or Austin Friars. The Hall has been, since the reign of
Charles 11., let as a Dissenters' meeting-house, and is now so occupied. The Pinners'
Company as an unincorporated guild is mentioned in the year 1376. In the 11th
Charles I., 1686, it was incorporated; motto, ** Virginitas et Unitas Nostra Fratemitaa."
Pinmakers* Hall, acoordiog to Chamberlain, was formerly situated in Addle-street,
Wood-street (now Plasterers' Hall), but after the dissolution of Austinfriars (Nov. 12;
1539), according to Pennant, part of the priory was converted into a Yenetaan
glass manufactory, with James Howel as steward. Afterwards this manufitctory
became the property of the Pinmakers' Company, ** who," says Herbert^ " occupied
the Austinfriars Hidl, afterwards called 'Pinners' Hall Meeting-house.'" In 1771, it
was ** the only meeting-house in London where the audience were not Calvinists, the
Independents meeting on the Sunday morning, and the Anabaptists on the Sunday
afternoon."
By more than one authority the Pinmakers* Company have been said to be " deiimct,*' bat npon a
reference to the Corporation CommiBsioners' necond Report, it will there be found stated, that tboo^ no
returns appear in the Chamberlain's books for forty years past, yet " it is supposed Ihat one or two indi*
vidnalB belonging to the Compsiiy are yet living."
Plastebebs' Hall, Addle-street, Wood-street, Cheapside, is now ooeapied as a
warehouse ; some of the rich ceilings remain. Malcolm has engraved a curious coat-of-
arm^ which he saved from the east window. The Company was incorporated by
Henry VII. in 1501, motto, " Let brotherly love continue." Among the curiosities is
an inscribed silver bell, the gift of Captain Abraham Stanyan, Master, 1647-48 ; a
silver cup or vase, with two handles, the arms of the Company on the bowl, and dated
1706 ; and the head of an ancient beadle's staff.
A statute was passed in the first year of the reim of James I., 1003, c. 20, which enacted that no
Plasterer should exercise the *'art" of a painter in the City or suburbs of London: but an apprentice
was exempt f^om the meaning of the Act. The penalty was 51., but a proviso allowed the Plasterer to
use wliiting, blacking, and redochre mixed with size, without oil. This was a very important statute
indeed, for it at once cleared up the several disagreements existing in 1676, between the Plasterers and
the Painters, the latter retaining their privileges by becoming incorporated in 1681.
pLrMBEiis' Hall, Great Bush-lane, Cannon-street, is a modem brick building : the
Company was incorporated by James I. in 1611.
Pobtebb' Hall is on St. Mary's-hill, Billingsgate. The Fellowship was incor-
porated in 1646, and consists of tackle and ticket porters ; with the City arms for
their armorial badge, and the Alderman of Billingsgate ward for their governor. They
claim the exclusive privilege, under the appointment and control of the Common
Council, of unloading all vessels that come to the port of London laden with com,,
malt, seeds, potatoes, fruit, salt, fish, &c., at a fixed rate of prices ; which, being high
in comparison with the rates in the Docks and at the various outports of the kingdom,
were greatly redu<5od in 1852, to meet the Free-trade exigencies.
The Ticketpporter of our times, " Toby Yeck who waited for jobs outside the church-door, with wind,
sod fkrost, and snow, and a good storm of hail, hfs red-letter days, and was called Trotty from his
pace, which meant speed if » didn't make it"— is the best character in Charles Dickens's Christmas
stoiy, 7%e Chimet,
HALLS—SADDLEBS', 8CBIVENEBS'. 419
Saddlebs' Hall, No. 143, Cheapside, has an elegant stone entrance fronts built in
1865, in place of a brick and stone frontage, surmoanted by a large coat of the Com*
pany's arms (aswe, a chevron, between three saddles, or ; crest, a horse bridled and
middled; supporters, two horses bridled), with the motto, " Our Trust is in God." The
Hall was rebuilt in 1823 ; Hatton, in 1708, described the former Hall " adorned with
fretwork and wainscot."
"The Saddlers' Company olaimB to be the oldest drio guild, datinff its descent from the Anglo-Saxon
times. In the reign of Bichaxd Coear de Lion, a convention was made between the Canons of St. Martin's-
le-Grand and the guild and fratemitr of the Saddlers. According to ancient statutes existing between
their church and this firatemity, the Saddlers were brothers and partakers of all benefits arising by day or
by night in all masses, psalms, prayers, and vigils, performed in the said church. Two especial masses were
granted them weekly; one for the liring, another lor the dead, and freely and honourably the bells of the
church should toU, and a procession formed to convey the departed brother to his last resting-place on
earth. The Canons of St. Martin's were also. to assist in the house of the Saddlers; and the latter,
aoeordingto ancient statutes, were, on the fast of St. Martin, acoustomed to be present with wax-tapers,
and to caEer alms to the saint. And lastly, when St. Martin's bell tolled forth the ftmend kndL the
Saddlers' guild pdd eightpence to the church."->Kempe's IRtt, St, l£aHM9^Qrand.
We have already seen that the Company conducted funerals 700 years ag^ : they
possess a rich pall of crimson velvet, the centre yellow silk. On one side is embroi-
dered, in rmsed g^ld work, " In te, Domine, speraei" in old English characters ; on
the other side is worked, " Ne me confunde in atemum" The head and foot of the
pall have the Company's arms, four kneeling angels surrounding the letters " I.H.S.,"
encircled by a glory, and bordered by a broad grold fringe.
In the Hall is Frye's whole-length portrait of Frederick Prince of Wales (father of
George III.), who became Master of the Company from having accepted an invitation
to witness the Lord Mayor's Show from their stand.
Sir BicbardBlackmore, schoolmaster, physician, and small poet, *'the Cheapeide Knight" and "the
City Bard," and the general butt of the wits of his day, probablv wrote some poems recited at Saddlers'
Hall ; whence Sk Samuel Garth addressed these .lines : ** To the merry Poetaster at Saddkra* Hall, in
Cheapeide.
"Unwieldy Pedant, let thy awkward Muse
With Censures praise, with Flatteries abuse.
To lash, and not be felt, in Thee's an Art ;
Thou ne'er mad'st any but thy School-boys smart.
Then be advis'd^ and scribble not agen :
Thou'rt fashioD'd for a Flail, and not a Fen.
If B I's immortal Wit thou would'st desciy.
Pretend 'tis he that writ thy Poetry.
Thy feeble Satire ne'er can do him wrong;
Thy Poems and thy Patients live not long."
"To Sir B Bl , on the two Wooden Horses before Saddlers' Hall :
"'Twas kindly done of the ffood-natnred Cits,
To place before thy door a oraoe of tite." — Tom Brown,
Charles IL* by charter> dated December 24th, in the thirty-sixth year of his reign,
granted several privileges; and this the Company consider their governing charter.
It is a very wealthy guild, and on August 30, 1859, was laid the first stone of
** Honnor's Hom^" for poor Freemen and widows, at Spring Grove, near Isleworth.
SosmEirBBB' Hall.— -The Scriveners are an ancient guild, evident from the fact
that, in 1483, they sent four members, in murry-coloured coats, to attond, with other
Companiofl^ the entry of Bichard III. into London. In 1485, they sent twenty men to
attend the msrching watch of the City ; while on August 31, in the same year, they
sent four members (among other gi^ds) to welcome Henry YII. on his entering
London ; and in 1487, on his return from Eenilworth.
The Scriveners were anciently denominated " The Writers of the Court Letter of
the City of London," but in the reign of James I., 1616, they were incorporated.
Being at one period a very wealthy giiild, they built themselves a fine Hall in Noble*
street, near St. Martin's-le-Grand ; but becoming in time much reduced, they were
oompelled to sell the building to the Company of Coachmakers, in whose hands it now
remains.
Mr. Hyde Clarice has thrown much light on the connexion of Milton with the
Scrivenen* Company. Their records teU us, that on Feb. 27, 1599, John Milton, son
of Richard Milton, of Stanston, co. Oxon, and late apprentice to James Colbron, citizen
and writer of the Court Letter of London (Scrivener), was admitted to the ireedom of
B B 2
420 CURIOSITIES OF LONDON.
the Company. The grandfather and father of the poet are the two personages here
alladed to. The hitt«r, who appears to have only served fonr years' apprenticeship^
instead of seven,* commenced business in 1599, and married about a twelvemonth after.
Sir Robert Clayton, Knight, Lord Mayor in the year 1680, was also a Scrivener.
He is often alluded to in the Diary of Evelyn, and appears to have been a wealthy and
worthy man, ** there never having been any who, for ye stateliness of his palace, pro-
digious feasting, and magnificence exceeded him."
Of another Scrivener, John Ellis, who died Dec. 31, 1791, at the venerable age of
ninety-four,
Johnson onoe remarked to Boewell, " It Is wonderfVd, sir, what is to be fotmd in London. The most
literarj conversation that I ever enjoyed was at the table of Jack Ellis, a money-scrivener, behind the
Royal Ezchan^, with whom I, at one period, used to dine generally once a week." Boswell adds,
** There is a good engraved portrait of him by Pether, from a picture by Frye, which hangs In the hall of
the Scriveners' Company.**
The business of a Scrivener was the making of leases, writings, aangnments, and
money securities, by which he became, as it were, a banker and a conveyancer; but the
desig^iation money-scrivener having expired with the above Ellis, the business is now
transacted by attorneys and others. The Company, however, still retun the title.
STATiomnzs' Hall, Stationers' Hall-court, Ludgate-hUl, occupies the site of Bur-
gaveny House, whither the Stationers' Company removed in 1611 : it was destroyed in
ihe Great Fire ;t after which the present Hall was erected ; the eastern front was
cased with stone about the year 1800.
The Company of Stationers retain their original character intact, and is the only
London Company restricted to the members of its own craft ; or members of the
bookselling, stationery, printing, bookbinding, printselling, or engraving trades; while
it practises " the mystery or art" to which its ancient title nominally refers.
The Company existed as a fraternity long previous to the introdndion of Printinff. Their
first Hall was in Milk-street. Thev were first incorporated May 4. 1667 (3rd and 4th Philip and
Mary): this charter was renewed oy Elizabeth in 1688; amplified bv Charles II. 1664; and con-
firmed by William and Manr, 1690, which is the existing charter of the Company. These charters
gave them Inquisitorial privileges of search andseizareof obnoxioos books: printers were compelled to
serve their time to a member or the Company ; and every publication, from a Bible to a ballad, was
required to be "Entered at Stationers' Hall." The first entry on the books Is 1558: **To William
Pekerynge, a ballad, called A Sv9e and Wake, 4(2." The MegUUnqfike StoHoMr^ Company are valu-
able authorities. Mr. Payne Collier has given many quotations from them in the two volumes which
he edited for theShakspeare Society in 1848 and 1840; and has continued tiie extracts, with iUustrations
and anecdotes (from 1687), inilTo^ and QiMrMs, 2nd s., voL xii.; Srd s., voL L ft iL, «< ^e^.
The Company likewise had granted to them by James I., in 1603, the privil^pe
of the sole printing of Frymers, Psalters, and Psalms ; as well as *' almanacks and
prognostications, and the Latin books used in the grammar-schools." Under the
Copyright Act, the proprietor of every published work is required to reg^ter his claim
for his own protection, in the books of the Stationers' Company, before any legal pro-
ceedings can take place ; the fee is 5f • To each apprentice bound at the Hall is g^ven
a Bible, which excellent custom originated in the bequest of Thomas Parkhnrst, Master
of the Company in 1683; he likewise left 872. to purchase annually Bibles with
Psalms, to be given to the poor. In corrupt times, the Company aided the Star-
chamber, and hence they became stig^matized as its "literary constables.'^ Their
authority has been disputed ; for, in the last century, Thomas Caman, the bookseller,
of St. Paul's Churchyard, contested with the Company the exclusive right to publish
almanacks: Lord North sided with the Stationers, but the eloquence of Erskine
strongly controverted their claim.
Their almanacks, to this day, maintain their superior accuracy and trustworthiness^
and adaptation to the requirements of the day. Thus, we have FrancU Moor^z
* In confirmation of this, an entry in the Scriveners' records tells us thatJames CoUnon was ad-
mitted into the Company, April 1, 1696. The question remains whether Milton -^as a " turnover," from
aome other Scrivener to Colbron. Mr. Clarke adds, that he discovered that the Scriveners "had no
especial custom or exemption of a shorter apprenticeship than seven years,' and that Milton most have
served seven years with one master or another." He was bom in 1678, and died in March, 1646-7. Saiah,
his wilb, died April 3, 1637. The poet was bom December 9, 1608.
t Hansard's Typoffrapkia contains a view of Burgaveny House as altered for the Hall of the Sta-
tioners, printed £rom the otiginal block engraved for the Company.
EALLSTATIONERS*. 421
Almanack, with the fdllert aooount of Eclipses and ABtronomical Phenomena; the Lady*»
and OenilemaWM Diary, commenced in the last oentnry, contains Papers and Qnestions
contrihuted by some of the first mathematicians of the day, as well as Enigmas and
Charades; John Partridge's Almanack, which Swift thought to extinguish in 1709, is
still published ; as is the Sheet Almanack commenced by Vincent Wing, the astronomer,
who published for the Company, also* a hook almanack : his portrait hangs in the
HaU. Among the more popular of the late additions to the Company's list are
almanacks for clergymen, parocliial officers, and parish clerks; and a Gardener's
Almanack, the first of which class was published by John Evelyn, the diarist.
In the Hall, on Almanack-day, in November, are published the Almanacks printed
for the Company. The Stationers employed Lilly, Partridge, and Moore : Lilly's
hieroglyphics were stolen from old monkish manuscripts : Moore it is stated has stolen
them from him. The Company's astrological and other predictions in their almanacks
oontinued, though modified, to our times ; one year they experimentally omitted frt)m
Moor^M Almanack the column on the moon's influence on the parts of the human
body, when moat of the copies were returned upon their hands. (Baily, on the Nau*
iical Almanac,) The invested capital of the Company is upwards of 40,000^., divided
into shares ; but their only publications are almanacks and a Latin Orados.
The Court-room has some fine carvings, attributed to Gibbons ; and at the extremity
is West's touching picture of King Alfred dividing a loaf with St. Cuthbert the
pilgrim, presented by Alderman Boydell, Master of the Company ; and of whom here
is a portrait as lord mayor, with allegorical absurdities, by Graham. In the Stock-room
and Hall are excellent portraits of Prior and Steele, presented by John Nichols ; of
Samuel Richardson, the novelist, and hu wife, by Highmore (Richardson was Master
of the Company in 1754) ; of Vincent Wing ; of John Bunyan, presented by Mr.
Hobba^the singer; a half-length of Bishop Hoadley; Robert Nelson, by Kneller;
Andrew Strahan, and his father, William Strahan ; and a bust of William Bowyer,
"last of the learned printers," with a gratefril inscription written by himself. The
Hall has also a large window filled with painted armorial glass. Here was held for
nearly twenty years, the Music Feast on St. Cecilia's day, 22nd of November, for which
Bryden wrote his celebrated Ode> last performed here in 1703.
The Company's Charities consist chiefly of pensions ; and foremost among the bene-
factors are the respected names of Gay, Bowyer, Boydell, and Strahan. Over the
gate in Stationers' Hall-court are the arms, the Bible, the glory, and the dove, and the
motto, " Verbum Domini manet in letemum," bespeaking the holier labours of the Com-
pany ; and the notice-boards below, the benevolence of its wealthier members.
From early times, the Stationers' Company has been celebrated for its sumptuous
state, and its attendance upon the Lord Mayor's Shows, &c; "the comeliest per-
sonages of the Company" attended the lord mayor on horseback, in velvet coats, chuns
of gold, and with staff torches, to escort Queen Elizabeth from Chelsea to Whitehall.
They kept, until within a few years, a superbly -gilt barge, in which, on the morning of
Lord Mayor's-day, they visited Lambeth Palace ; when the household of the Arch-
bishop of Canterbury brought on board the barge hot spiced ale, buns and cakes, and
wine; the latter being served to the Stationers in small wooden "sack-cups," or bowls^
with two handles, which were provided by the beadle of the Company. This custom
is stated to have originated as follows : when Tenison possessed the See, a near relation
of his, who was Master of the Stationers' Company, thought it a compliment to call at
the Palace in his stately barge on the morning of Lord Mayor's-day, when the Arch-
bishop sent ont a pint of wine for each liveryman, with bread and cheese and ale for
the watermen and attendants ; and this grew into a settled custom. Certain fees
amounting to 22. 12s. &d. were paid to the Archbishop's servants on this occasion ; the
Bargeraaster's bill was 20 guineas, the charge for music, 12/., bendes other expenses,
to enable the Company to " attend my lord mayor with fitting state." On the dis-
continuance of the aquatic civic pageant, the Stationers' Company sold their barge,
and the regale at Lambeth was thenceforth discontinued. The Company formerly sub*
mitted their several almanacks to the Archbishop of Canterbury, for his Grace's
approval ; this is no longer observed, but the Stationers continue to present annually
to the Archbishop an entire set of their almanacks.
422 CUBI08ITIE8 OF LONDON,
The Stationers' Company liave erected in Bolt-oonrt, Fleet-stareet, a School-honae,
at a cost of aboat 9000^. The School is not confined to the sons of liverymen and
freemen of the Company : it will accommodate upwards of 800 boys, and affords an
edncalaon similar to that of the City of London School. The speeches and awards of
prizes take place at Midsummer before the Master, Wardens, and Court of Assistants,
in the Stationers' HalL The buildings were repaired and re-decorated in 1866-7 : the
Court-room is a noble and picturesque apartment.
The Amersl feast of Tbomsa Sutton, of the Charter-houBe, was giTeu May 28, 1612, in the fionner
StatioDen' Hall; the proceeaion having atarted ftom Dr. Law'a, in Patenioeter-row. For this repait
were provided 32 neate' tongaes, 40 atone of beef, 24 marrow-bonea, 1 lamb, 46 capona, S2 geeae, 4
pheaaanta, 12 pheaaanta' pulleta, 12 godwita, 24 rabbita, 6 hearashawa, 48 torkOT-chickeoa, 48 rooat
ohickena, 18 hooae-piffeona, 72 fleld-pigeona, 86 qnaila, 48 ducUinga, 160 egn, 8 aahnona, 4 congers, 10
tnrbota, 2 doriea, 24 lobatera, 4 mulieta, a firkin and keg of aturgeon, 3 bajrels of pickled oyaterB, 6
gammona of bacon, 4 Westphalia gammona, 16 filed tonguea. 16 chicken-piea, 16 pasties, 16 made
diahea of rice, 16 neata'-tongue pies, 16 ciutarda, 16 dishes of bait, 16 mince-piea, 16 orange-plea, 16
forat bock-meata, 16 gooacberrj-Caita, 8 redcare>piea^ 6 diahea of whitebait, and 6 grand aaiads. —
Ualeolm,
8TOCKiira.wxATSit8' Haix, Bedcrofls-street, Cripplegate, longnnce taken down, was
noted for containing a curious picture, illustrative of the history of the stocking-loom.
In thia old picture William Lee or Leaia pointing out his stocking-loom to a female knitt^;
beuMth wliich is this inscription : '*In the year 1689, the ingenious William Lee, Master of Arta of St.
John's College, Cambridge, derised this profitable art for stockings (but being deepiaed, went to
France,) yet of iron to himself, but to us axid others of gold : in memorr of whom this is here ji^nted."
By some the lecture is thought to haye suggested the story of Lee's naring invented the machine to
expedite knitting, and thus ulow the girl, of whom he was enamoured, more time to listen to hia lore-
making ; or the picture may be an illustration of the story. Aaron Hill givee the invention to a poor
atudent of Oxford, to anporaedehia wife'a knitting for their familv's support: but Hill wrote this in
1716 upon hearsay; and Lee is named as the inventor in a petiuon oitlie Framewo^-knittera, or
Stocking-makers, to Cromwell for a charter, subsequently granted by Charlea II. in 1663. Hill's ver-
aion has, however, been adopted by Elmore in his very clever picture of "the Invention of the
Stocking-loom," painted in 1847.
The painting of Lee and his wife, however, was parted with by the Company at a
period of pecuniary embarrassment. Mr. Bcnnet Woodcroft has collected some par-
ticulars of the disposal of the picture, in the hope that they may lead to its restoration.
In a list, dated 1687, of plate, paintings, &c belonging to the Company, is an item :
" Mr. Lee's picture, by Balderston :" it is also described in Hatton's London, 1708.
From 1732, the Company's books show no more meetings at their Hall, or any further
entry of the picture. The Stocking Weavers subsequently let their Hall, and met at
various taverns. The head of the Court Summons, dated 1777, is engraved from Lee's
picture ; and from this plate is copied an engpraving in the Gallery of Portraits of In-
ventors in the Great-Seal Patent OfiSce. The picture is thought to have passed, about
1773, into the hands of an influential member of the Court of Framework Knitters,
who, from time to time, lent the Company money, as their books testify.
TALLOW-CHAifDLEEa' Hall, Dowgate-hiU, is built in the style of Wren, with a
colonnade of Tuscan arches. The Company was incorporated by Edward IV. in 1460.
Watkemen'b Halt^ St Mary-at-Hill, Billingsgate, was built in 1786. The Com-
pany's old Hall was in Cold-harbour, and faced the Thames.
The ikres of the Thames Watermen and Whorrymen were res^ilated by Henry YIII. in 1614. Taylor
the Water-poet, temp. Elizabeth, states the Watermen between Windsor and Graveaend at 40,000. Th^
were made a Company by Philip and Marr in 1555, with eight overseers and rulers, " the most wise,
discreet, and beat sort of watermen." selected by the Lord Mayor and Court of Aldermen. This
statute reeulates the dimensions of the boats and wherries, then dangerously "shallow and tickle :**
tiie Ijord Mayor and Aldermen to limit the watermen's fares, to be confirmed by the Privy Council.
Btrvpe was told by one of the Company that there were 40,000 watermen upon their rolls ; that th^
coma furnish 20,000 men for the fleet ; and 8000 men were then in the service. Tavlor the Water-poet,
with his fellow-watermen, violently opposed the introduction of coaches as trade-spillers. The Company
condemned the bui^afng of Westminster and Ulaekfriars Bridges, fbr their ii\)ury to the ferries between
Yauzhall and tlie Temple, the profits of which were given to the poor, aged, decayed, and maimed
Watermen and their widows ; and in both cases the Company were compensated for their losses. The
substitution of steam-boats for wherries has, however, been as fatal to the watermen as railways have
proved to stoge-coachmeu. The above statement of the number of Watermen is very questionable.
In 1633, Taylor, the Water-poet, sent in a petition to Lord Cottingtox), on behalf of
his Migesty's watermen. It is in rhyme : —
* Shows that your Lordship is so well inclined
To pe^ us, that our order you have signed,
For which wo humbly thank yon, though as yet.
We sue, and seek, and can no payment get.
HALL8'-WAX'CHA2n)LEB8*, WEAVERS'. 423
We live in debt, we coin and credit lack.
And we do fear Sir Robert Pje is slack.
Or else unwilling ; tberefore we implore
Toor Lordship to remember him once more ;
And we shall pray unto the power supernal
To bless your Lordship, temporal and eternal.
Waz-ohaitdless' Hall, No. 13, Gresham-street West, nearly opposite Haber-
dashers' Hall, was taken down in 1852, and has been rebuilt. The Wax-Chandlers'
Company was incorporated by Richard III. in 1483. The chandler of old set his mark
to the several articles which he made; lent oat wax-tapers for hire; and in Roman
Catholic times wax was brought to the chandlers, to be made into " torches, torchetteSj
prykettes or perchers, channdelle or tapers for women ayenst Candelmas."
Among the Company's Cniloeitlee are a Grant of Arms to the Company, ten^p. Richard III^ a most
magnificent document, the Company's Charter of Incorporation, beautliully illuminated. The Wax-
chimdlers also have several very interesting examples of the 17th century silver plate. The late Mr.
Gregoiy, of Wax*chandler8* Hall, left a veiy interesting collection of civic antiquities.
Weatess' Hall, Basinghall-street. The Weavers enjoy the privilege of being the
first to whom a charter was granted, of any of the City Gnilds. That Quilds were
originated for the purposes of trade is borne out by the fact that the Weavers' Guild
is older than the charter of the City itself; and persons belonging to that Guild are
entitled to trade in the City, though they are not free of the City. The Company,
originally doth and tapestry weavers, was first incorporated in the reign of Henry I.,
and pud 161, a year to the Crown for their immunities. Their privileges were con-
firmed to them at Winchester by Henry II. in 1184, the charter being sealed by
Thomas k Becket, the celebrated Cbancellor of that reign. The chief officers of the
Company retain the distinctive titles of Upper Bailiff and Renter Buliff. The motto
is " Weave Truth with Trust." Hatton (1708) describes the Hall as greatly adorned
with hang^gs, fretwork, and a screen of the Ionic order. Their arms are curious :
Aznre, on a chevron, argent, between three leopards' heads, having Aich a shuttle in his mouth, or, as
many rosea, gules, seeded proper : creet, a Leopard's Head crowned with a ducal coronet, and a sliuttle
as before; supporters, two Weevems, ermine, winged or, membered gules.
The old Hall, which had a decorative ceiling, and a staircase with carvings, was taken
down in 1856, and has been rebuilt in handsome style.
The existing Companies are so many trusteeships for "charitable purposes" and
^'chartered festivals;" and their earliest olject was the formation of a common stock
for the relief of poor or decayed members. Stow devotes some twenty-five folio pages
of his Survey to charities for this purpose, and which he characterizes as ** the Honour
of Citizens and Worthiness of Men." These charities comprise pensions to decayed
members, almshouses, gifts of money to the poor ; funds for the support of hospitals,
flcboolsi, exhibitions at the universities; prisoners in the City gaols; for lectures and ser-
mons, and donations to distressed clergymen ; loans to young beginners in business, &c.
Of the eighty-nine Companies, eight are practically extinct; and a ninth, the Parish
Clerks, has no connexion with the municipiUity of London. The others* are divided by
the Parliamentary Commissioners into three classes: 1. Companies still controlling
tbdr trade, namely, the Goldsmiths and the Apothecaries : both these also belong to
Class 2. 2. Companies exerdnng the right of search, or making wares, &c., including
the Stationers', at whose Hall all copyright books must be " entered ;" the Gon-makers,
who prove all the g^ns made in the City ; the Founders, who test and mark weights;
the Saddlers, who examine the workmanship of saddles; the Painters, who issue a
trade price-list of some authority ; and the Pewterers and Plumbers, who make assays.
3. Companies into which persons carrying on certain occupations in the City are com-
pelled to enter: such are the Apothecaries, Brewers, Pewterers, Builders, Barbers,
Bakers, Saddlers, Painter-stainers, Plumbers, Innholders, Founders,* Poulterers, Cooks,t
* The Fruiterers' Company have no Hall : ihej present the Lord Mayor yearly with jRruit, formerly
twelve bushels of apples, and are entertained bv ms liordship.
t The Cooks' Company have no Hall. By tneir Charter of Charles II. they claim to serve the sove-
reign on all dvic occasions, as well as exemption from serving on juries. They also claim the right of
■elHng beer without a license ; but the Court of Excise have decided against this privilege by an Act
of Parliament which exempts only members of the Vintners' Companv from the wine hcense. The
Cooks' Company are, however, exempted from serving on juries in the City courts.
42't CUBI08ITIE8 OF LONDON.
Weavei's, Scrivenen, Farrien, Spectade-maken, Clockmakera,* Silk-throwera, Dis-
tillen, Tobaoco-pipe-maken, and Carmen; the last mentioned exdosively consisting of
persons belonging to the trade. Admisuon to the b6dy of freemen is obtained by
birth, apprenticeship, purchase, or gift ; and thence into the livery by fees.
The Needlemaken' ii the only Citj Company not inooiporated hj a crowned head, they luning
reoeived their Charts flrom Cromwdl in 1666. They have no Hall, bat these characteristic anna : vart^
tkr»9 %M«Un in feu argent^ «adb duealig ertwtud or : crest, a Moor's head, couped at the shoolders in
profile proper, wreathra aboat the temples argrent, and in his ear a pearl (the crest oririnally was an
apple-tzee and serpent); supporters, a man and woman (termed Adam aud £ye), wreathed roond the
wMst with leaves, all proper, in the woman's dexter hand a needle argent; motto, "they sewed figw
leaves together and made themselves aprons." Stow tells as that neecDes were sold in Cheapeide in
the reign of Queen Mary, and were then made by a Spanish negro, bj a secret art ; they are also said
to have been made in IJondon by a native of India, m 1646; and by one Elias Kraose, a German, in
1666. Needles were first made, or rather finished, in Whitecnapel, by one Mackenzie : henoe the C17
of " Whitechapel needles, twenty-five for a penny." The trade then removed to the borders of War-
wickshire and woroestershire; bat Whitechapel labels are etiU ased, and the fiune of "Whitechapel
■harps" has reached the interior of Africa.
The arms of the several Companies (some very cnrioas) are correctly given in Monle'a
English Countiet : Middlesex. Their records are ancient ; for the Great Companies'
title-deeds mostly extend to the thirteenth century.
HALLS, MISCELLANEOUS.
AGBiClTLTTmAL Hall^ Islington, was bnilt in 1862, and opened with the Smithfield
Clnb CatUe Show, in December. Tlie principal entrance is in Liverpool-road, beneath
a lofty arch, flanked by towers, with cupolas, 95 feet high. The capital was raised
by a Joint-Stock Company, Limited, composed of agricnlturists, agricultural implement
makers, and cattle salesmen. The whole sum expended in the building, fittings, Sus^
was 53,000^. The first chairman of the Company was the late Mr. Jonas Webb, of
Babrabam, the celebrated breeder of South-down sheep and short-homed cattle. The
ground-plan and cattle fittings were designed by Mr. John CKblett, the eminent cattle-
salesman, of the Metropolitan Market. The vice-chairman is Mr. Shuttleworth, the
agricultural implement maker, of Lincoln. The main hall is 3S4 feet in length, by
217 feet in breadth, and has galleries on the four sides, 30 feet wide. There is also a
minor hall, 100 feet square ; and an entrance-arcade 150 feet long from Isling^ton
Qreen. The gpreat hall has an iron arched roof, glazed, ISO feet span. Mr. F. Peck
was the architect. Tlie first stono was laid by Lord Bemers, as President of the Club.
The Hall was originally established by members of the Smithfield Club, after an
existence of more than sixty-two years. The Club has, since its first institution, had
at least five different places of exhibition. In 1799 aud 1800, the Club exhibited in
Wootton's livery Stables (Dolphin Yard), Smithfield; in 1804, the Show was held in
Swan-yard ; in 1805, the next selected spot was Dixon's Repository, in Barbican ; the
display for 1808 took place in Sadler's-yard, Goswell-street ; and in 1839, the Club,
moving westward, gave its first exhibition in Baker-street. From Mr. Brandreth
Gibbs's History of the Origin and Progress of the Smithfield Club, we learn that, at
the first exliil}ition, the Club only received from the public 401. 3f. The receipts of
the first Baker-street Show were 300/.
At the first Cattle-show in the Agricultural Hall, in five days, 134,669 persons paid one
shilling each for admission. Since that date, besides the annual Show of cattle, sheep,
pigs, and agricultural implements, there have been held here four Dc^-shows, at one of
which 2000 dogs were entered : that held in 1863 brought 60,800 paying visitors. The
first Horse-show was held in 1864. The Hall Company have the creidit of originating a
Show of this description under cover, with horses exhibited, saddled and harnessed,
in an arena sufficiently large to display their paces, and accommodations which have
never been excelled. A Horse-show is now held here every year in the week between
Epsom and Ascot Races, and attracts the most fashionable company in London. The
judges are invariably selected from noblemen and gentlemen ; as for instance, the Earls
of Chesterfield and Portsmouth, Lords Suffield and Combermere.
* The Clockmakers' Company have a lending library, rich in treatises on Horology and the allied
sciences ; bcHldes a cabinet of specimen watches, &c. The Company have no hall, but an office, 6, Cowper*8-
coart, Comhill; whence the Master, Wardens, and Court of Assistants, May 10, 1852, memorialized
Her Muesty's Commissioners of Works and Building against the order given direct to Mr. Dent to
make the great Clock for the New Palace at Westminster, instead of submitting it, as originally
intanded, to competition.
HALLS, MISCELLANEOUS. 425
There are also at Christmas, Equestrian Performances, with chariot-races, &c.,
reminding one of the sports of Old Rome. There have likewise heen several Industrial
and Musical Exhihitions : the Metropolitan Working Men's Exhibition held here ten
weeks in the antumn of 1866, was visited by more than half a million persons. One
evening, when the Messiah oratorio was snng by the Tonic Sol-fa Association, upwards
of 23,000 persons paid twopence each for admission in little more than two hours.
The Company, up to January, 1865, when the Cattle-show was seriously affected by
the cattle plague, had paid four dividends, averaging eight pounds per cent. Mr. John
Clayden of Littlebury, Essex, is the present chairman. The Secretary and Manager of
the Hall is Mr. Samuel Sidney, a well-known writer on colonization, civil engineering,
and agriculture.
Baeewsll Hall formerly stood in firont of the Guildhall, over the g^round now
occupied by the Law Courts, and extending almost to Basinghall-street. (See the Flan
of Bassishato Ward, Strype's Stov, vol. i. ; also Maitland's History of London ;
edition 1760, vol. ii.; Aggas's JPlan of London, 1560. For a view of the first hal^
in the time of Henry VIII., see Newton's Plan of London,) Stow says it was
first called Basing's Hall, after its owners, the noble family of the Basings, who, in the
reign of King John, were appointed chief magistrates, and many served the office of
mayor and sheriff. Subsequently, this large building, in the reign of Edward III., was
inhabited by Thomas BakewelL In the twentieth year of Richard II. the King, for
the sum of 50/. which the mayor and commonalty had paid into the Hanaper, assigned
to them the Hall, gardens, &c., for the use of the Corporation ; and Bcdcewell Hall,
from that time, was chiefly employed as a weekly market-place for woollen doths,
broad and narrow, brought from all parts of this realm to be sold there. The first
hall was taken down and rebuilt in the space of ten months, in 1558, at the charge of
2500/. 300/. was a legacy of Mr. Richard May, merchant-tailor ; but this building
did not escape the Great Fire ; it was again rebuilt in 1672. The Corporation gave to
Christ's Hospital the profit arising from the lodging and pitching of the doth in the
several warehouses or halls — for it was divided into several. This last building was
taken down to make room for the new Law Courts.. Bakewell Hall, or Blakew^ell Hall,
AS it was subsequently called up to the last century, was the g^reat doth-market of
London, and the neighbourhood is still noted for the warehouses of wholesale woollen*
drapers.— W. H. Overall, Guildhall Libarian: City Press.
CoMMBBciAL Hall, Minctng-laue, fi>r the public sale of colonial produce, was built
in 1811, from the designs of Joseph Wood, F.S.A., author of Letters from an Archi"
tect ; it has some characteristic bas-reliefs, by J. G. Bubb.
Flaxhak Hall, University College, Gower-street, is the central apartment beneath
the cupola, designed by Cockerell and Donaldson, for the receipt of Flaxman's models,
presented by his sister-in-law. Miss Maria Denman. The collection consists of about
140 casts in plaster from the original models, statues and groups of figures, and reliefs,
>ome retouched by the great sculptor. Immediately beneath the lantern is the group
of Michad and Satan ; and around and above are his monumental and other rdiefs,
arranged in compartments. In the niche in the vestibule is the large group of
Hercules and Omphale; in adjoining rooms are the Pastoral Apollo, the Shield of
Achilles, small models of Raphael and Michael Angelo, and other of Flaxman*s works ;
And on the landing is a fine statue of the sculptor by M. L. Watson.
Flobal Hall, at the south-east comer of the Piazza, Covent Garden, was built in
1863, by taking down a portion of Inigo Jones's Arcade ; E. M. Barry, architect. It
u of iron and glass, and has a large dome. It is an adjnnct to Covent-garden opera-
house, and occasionally used for concerts, flower-shows, &c.
Hall op Commebce, No. 52, Threadneedle-street, was designed and built in 1840-48
^y Mr. Moxhay, formerly a bLscoit-baker in the same street t it occupies the site of the
French Protestant Church, in clearing away which a fine Roman tessdated pavement
was discovered, and is now in the British Museum.
The Hall fii^adehas a bas-relief 73 feet in lenf^rth, with life-size fignres, by M. L. Watson : the cen-
^^ liguTQ is Comnunrce, with outspread wings and hands, encouraging the Fine Arts j the groups
426 CUBI08ITIE8 OF LONDON.
symbolizlnsr the intellectajQ and phyiical adraatupM of Commerce. Thus, nniHer aie Peace ; Industry,
agrlcaltunu and mechanical figxirea bringing firuita and produce, and othera spinning; next ia Naviga-
tiou, gmded byAatronomy and Geography; and Education and CiTilixation, with Libcrtr freeing the
Slave. Dexter la History ; next is a group of the Arte and Sciences ; Enterprise guidea by Genius^
and airatting their arrival ia a group of aborigines. The sculptor died young, in 1847.
The bailding was opened as a mercantile dub-hoose; right and lefb were two
superb halls, with Corinthian columns and pilasters, picturesque friezes, and el^antly
«oved ceilings. In the larger hall, 130 feet long, 44 wide, and 50 feet high, March 1,
1861, was given the dinner to Mr. Macready on his retirement firom the stage;
upwards of 500 guests. The Hall of Commerce, after Mr. Moxhay's death in 1849,
was sold for 44,000^. ; the site alone is stated to have cost him 35,000{. The building
was next altered for the Bank of London.
HiOKS's Hall, whence the miles on the Great North Road were formerly measured
(or, ** from the spot where Hicks's Hall formerly stood"), merits record. In the wide
part of St. John- street, Clerkenwell, some two hundred yards from Smithfield, an
inscription on a public-house states that Hicks's Hall there formerly stood. It was
erected some two hundred and fifty years since — the year in which the New River was
brought into London. It was built by and named after Sir Baptist Hicks, of Ken-
sington, one of the justices, who, " out of his worthy disposition," gave it to the
justices of the county for ever. It got out of repur, and much impeded the traffic
Another Sessions-House was commenced building on Clerkenwell-green; this was finished
in 1782 (Rogers, architect) : it contains a carved chimney-piece, of Jacobean character,
with an inscription recording Hicks's gift, removed from the old Sesmons-Housc.
Strype says the Hall cost about 900^., or thereabouts; elsewhere, he states 600Z.
Howes thus describes the building, and the naming of it :
Sir Baptist Hicks, Kniffht, one of the justices of the county, buQded a very statelv Session House
of brick and stone, with all offices thereunto belonging, at his own proper charge ; ana upon Wedn^-
day, the 13th of January, this yere, 1612, by which time this house was mlly finished, there aasemblcd
twenty-six justices of the county, being the first day of their meeting in that place, when thev were all
feasted by Sir Baptist Hicks; and then they all, with one consent, gave it a proper name, and called it
Hicks' Hall, after the name of the founder, who then fireely gave the same house to them and their suc-
cessors for ever. Until this timei the Justioea of Middlesex held their usual meeting in a common inn,
rolled the Castle (near Smithfield Bars).
Hicks's Hall had other celebrity besides its milestone distinction. It occurs in
Sudibrtu, part iii. canto 8 : —
** An old dull sot, who told the clock,
For many years, at Bridewell Dock,
At Westminster and Hicks's Hall,
And kieeiu$-doctiue played in alL"
In Hicks's Hall, William Lord Bussell, the patriot, was sentenced to death for high
treason, July 14, 1683 ; here, too. Count Eoningsmarck was tried for the murder of
Mr. Thynne, and acquitted ; and in March, 1765, a bill of indictment was found at
the sessions here against Count de Gkierchy, for the absurd charge of a conspiracy to
murder the Chevalier d'Eon. Hicks's HaU, we gather from a drawing in Mr. Holbert
Wilson's collection, scarcely readies Howes's description : it was not large, had a bay-
window in the upper floor, and above it a gable.
Hudson's Bat CoMPAinr's Hajll, Fenchurch-street, is a handsome edifice, with an
interesting collection of Curiosities from the countries to which the Company trade
by barter and otherwise* for rich frtrs, skins, &c., sold here in spring and autumn.
The Company was incorporated by Charles II. in 1670. Their hunting-ground extends
from Hudson's Bay to the Pacific, and from the United States' frontier to the Arctic
Sea. In the Hall is a vast pair of horns of the Moose Deer, weighing 56 lbs. ; and in
another room, the picture of an Elk, the European Moose, killed in the presence of
Charles XI. of Sweden: it weighed 1229 lbs.
St. Jahes's Hall and its appurtenances (originated by Mr. Willert Beale) are
situated between the Quadrant in Regent-street and Piccadilly, and Vine-street and
George-court. There is a frontage in Begent-street, and another in Rccadilly; the
latter is characteristically embellished with a sculptured fig^ure of Muac, supported by
two Cupids, in the tympanum over the upper windows ; and between the upper and
lower window is 9^ frieze of children playing various muiucal instruments. The interior
HALLS, MISCELLANEOUS. 427
m
consists of a great hall and two smaller halls. The dimensions of the great hall are
139 feet hy 60, and 60 feet in height; and it will seat ahout 2600 persons. It 'has
a semicircnlar^beaded ceiling, and a recessed orchestral gallery at one end, and an
alcove at the other end, containing a large organ by Gray and Davidson. The walls
and ceiling have been deoorated by Mr. Owen Jones. The ceiling is divided into
lozenge-shaped panels, by principal ribs that traverse the roof diagonally, and intersect
each other ; within these panels are others formed by lesser ribs. The semicircnlar-
headed windows are snrronnded with flowing scroll ornaments, on a ground of orange-
chrome yellow ; and the windows have groups of fig^ures in bold relief^ holding scrolls,
on which are inscribed the names of Mozart, Handel, Beethoven, Haydn, Auber,
Meyerbeer, Spohr, Weber, Gluck, Purcell. Rossini, Cherubini, and other eminent com-
posers. The ceiling is rich in colour and gilding ; the smaller panels are Alhambran
gold on a red ground. The Hall is not lighted at night by a central chandelier, but
hy gas stars of seven jets each, suspended from the ceiling. The flgures in the various
designs were modelled by Monti ; the other enrichments, by De Sarchy, are of plaster
and canvas run into moulds. The floor of the Hall is of marqueterie. It was opened
with a musical performance for the benefit of the Middlesex Hospital on the 25th of
March, 1856. The Hall is not, however, appropriated exclusively to music.
Ptiblio Dinnen are given in this Hall. The iir$t took place Jane 8, 1868, Mr. Robert Stepbeuson,
MJP^ presidinif, when handsome plate and 2678f. were presented to Mr. F. Pettit Smith, in testimony
of his bringing into general use the system of Screw Propulsion in ships. The subscribers to the
TesUmonial were 138, chiefly eminent naval oflScers, engineers, ship-boilders, sbip^wners, and men of
science ; and the Festival intellectually commemorated ^ one of those bloodless triumphs of tdvilization,
of which this age and country have reason to be proud."
St. Mabtin'b Music HaiiL, No. 89, Long Acre, was orig^ally designed by B.
Westmaoott, for Mr. Hullah's Singing Classes : the style Elizabethan, with iron arches
and panelled wood roof, of immense span ; the Hall was first opened Feb. 11, 1850.
It was partly destroyed by fire, but was restored and lengthened in 1853, and is now
121 feet 6 inches long ; an entrance-hall was then added.
Ukioit Haix, Union-street, Southwark, was built by subscription, upon the site of
the Greyhound inn, in 1781, for the use of the justices of the peace, before which they
83t at the Swan Inn. They attended at Union Hall daily till the passing of the Police
Act in 1793, when it w^as made one of the offices; the business was next removed to a
new office at Stones' End ; Union Hall was then let as warehouses ; it was destroyed by
fire Dec 6, 1851.
Wesletax Centekaby Hall and Mission House, Bishopsgate-street, fhces
Threadncedle-street, The Centenary Hall was formerly the City of London Tavern.
The great Hall for Wesleyan meetings will hold 1200 persons. In the rear is the
Mission House, built in 1842 : here is the picture by Parker of the rescue of John
Wesley from the flames, when a boy. The anangement of the warehouses, for books,
clothes, implements, and other outfittings of the missionaries, illustrates the extent of
the Society's transactions ^eo^raj>Aica2/y : here Ashantee, there Tonga; there Caf&aria,
Gambia, &c
. Au interesting Sale of Thank-offerings fVom the Friendly and F^ee Islands to the Wesleyan Mls«
sionaiy Society was held in their Uali, June 19 and 20, 1851; including temples, cloths, and mats:
spears and cIuIm, shells and bowls; elephants' and whales' teeth; costumes, idols, and musical instiru-
ments ;->all picturesquely grouped, and touching as a lesson of gratitude exemplaxy to the silken baron
oiciTilization.
WESTunrsTEB Guildhall, on the south side of the Sanctuary, near the Abboy, was
bnilt in 1805, by Cockerell, upon the site of the market-house, erected by subscription
in 1568. The Guildhall is octagonal in plan, and has a Doric entrance-portico : here
Are held the sessions.
TowK Halls and Vebtbt Halls have been erected within the last twenty years
in most of the large parishes of the metropolis and its environs : some are good specimens
of Gothic and classic architecture.
See also, Bbidbwell, Chabteb-House, Chbist's Hospital, Cbosby Hall^
SoTPTiAK Hall, Exbteb Hall, Fbeekabons' Lodqbs, Gbeshak Hall, Lambets
l^ALACE. Halls are likewise attached to the Ikns of CouBT and Chahoebt, which
'^* Also, Westmutbteb Hall.
428 CURIOSITIES OF LONDON.
HATMAEKET {TEE).'
" A VERY spacious and public street, length 340 yards, where is a g^eat market for
•^ hay and straw." (Ration, 1708). Hay was sold here in the reign of Elizabeth;
and Aggas's plan has "the Haymarket/' with hedgerows and a few straggling houses;
and washerwomen then dried their linen on the g^rass of the site of the present Opera-
house. A Token in the British Museum denotes one of the earliest vendors of sea-eooZ
to have lived here: "Nathaniel Robins, at the Sea-coal seller, 1666." (Reverse.)
" Hay Markett in Hckadilla, his halfpenny." Charles II. granted the right of holding
a cattle-market in the street twice a week, opened 1664; it was paved 1697, by fines
on the carts; 9d. for each load of hay, and 2d, fbr straw. The market for Hay was
removed by Act of Parliament, in 1830, to Cumberland Market, Regent's Park.
The acclivity of the Haymarket at 490 feet from Piccadilly was, in 1842, 1 foot in
22 : this has been ingeniously overcome in building the fh)nt of Her Majesty's Theatre^
the (tivisions of which have been taken advantage of to lower the lines, whilst the great
length of the fia^ade has rendered the rise unnoticeable : it was designed by Kovouebki,
but re-fronted by Nash and Repton, 1818. Nearly opposite is the Haymarket Theatre,
built by Nash, in 1821, with a fine Corinthian portico: the site of Potter's "Little
Theatre " is occupied by the Caf^ de I'Europe.
Opponte Her Majesty's Theatre is Suffolk-place, leading to Suffolk-street, the site
of a mansion of the Earls of Suffolk. In Strype's time the houses were handsome :
Moll Davies lived here from 1667 to 1673, in a mansion richly furnished for her by
Charles II„ which Pepys thought "a most infinite shame:" she kept also "a mighty
pretty fine coach." Here lived Sir John Coventry, who, on his way home, when at the
corner of the street, had his nose cut to the bone, " for reflecting on the king," in 1669;
whence dates the Coventry Act against cutting and miuming.
Suffolk-street has some classic house-fronts: No. 2 has four characteristic oil-jars ;
No. 6, next the Society of British Artists' Gallery, is from Andrea Palladio's house at
Yicenza. The Gallery, No. 6^, has a Roman-Doric tetrastyle portico on three semi-
circular arches, by Nash : the suite of five rooms, planned by James Elmes, were lit by
large ceiling lanterns, inclined from the perpendicular, and difTusing even light. No.
19 is the stage.door of the Haymaricet Theatre.
On the east side of the Haymarket is James-street, dated 1673; where was the
Tennis-court of Shavers' Hall {tee Tennis, p. 18), the last house in Faithome's plan of
1658. Above is Panton-street, which, with Panton-square, Coventry-street, was
named from Colonel Panton, the ground-landlord: he was a noted and successful
gamester, of the time of the Restoration, and the last proprietor of Piccadilly Hall, which
stood at the comer of Great Windmill-street and Coventry -street : the Tennis-court
remained to our time in Great Windmill-street.
Colonel Panton, it is said, in one niglit won as many thousands as purchased him an
estate of above 15002. a year. After this good fortune he would never handle cards or
dice again ; but lived handsomely on his winnings to his dying day, which was in the
year 1681. He was in possession of land, the site of streets which bear his name, as
Panton-street and Panton-square, as early as the year 1664. Yet we remember to
have seen it stated that Panton street was named from a particular kind of horse-shoe
called tL panton; and from its contiguity to the Haymarket, this origin was long creiUted.
In 1772, Puppets were exhibited in Panton-street, and were visited by Barke and Goldsmith.
"Burke praised the dexterity of one puppet in pArticular, who tossed a pike with military preoisioo.
•Psha!' remarked Goldsmith, with some warmth, ' I can do it better myself.' " (Forster'a Qoldsmtth.)
Boswell relates that Goldsmith " went home with Mr. Bnrke to supper, and broke his shin by attempt-
ing to exhibit to the company how much better he could jump over a sUck than the puppets."
On the west is Norris-street, leading to St. James's Market, once the great western
butchers' and poulterers' market, noted by Pepys in 1666 as just built by my Lord
St. Albans : in a room o?er the market-house Richard Baxter used to preach. Here,
too, is Jermyn-street, named afler Henry Jermyn, Earl of St. Albans.
At the corner of Market-street, extending into Jermyn-street, lived Wheeler, the
linen-draper, and uncle of Hannah Lightfoot, "the foir Quakeress," who, while
serving in her uncle's shop, caught the eye of Prince George (afterwards King
George 111.), in his walks and rides from Leicester House to SU James's Palace.
HOLBOEh. 429
FaciDg Piccadilly Hall, occupying the whole south side of the present Coveutry-
street, between the Haymarket and Hedge-lane, stood the Gaming-house built by the
barber of the Earl of Pembroke, and hence called Shavers' Hall : it is described by
Garrard, in a letter to Lord Stratford in 1685 as " a new Spring Gardens erected in
the fields beyond the Mews."
From a mirver of the premiaes, made in 1660, we ^ther that Shavers* HaU'was strongrly built of
brick, and coverea with lead: its large ** seller" was divided into liz rooms: above those roar rooms,
and the same In ttie first storej, to which was a balcony, with a prospect soathward to the bowling
slleys. In the second storey were six rooms; and over the same a walk, leaded, and enclosed with
Tails, ** very cortoosly carved and wrooght," as was also the staircase, throughout the house. On the
west were large kitchens and cool-house, with lofts over, ** as also one fidre Tennis Court," of brick,
tfled, ** well accommodated with all things fitting for the same :*' with upper rooms ; and at theentrance-
Kte to the upper bowling-green, a parlour-lodge ; and a double flight of steps descending to the lower
wling-alley; there was still another bowling-allev, and an orcnard-wall, planted with choice fruit-
trees ; *' as also one pleasant banqueting-house, and one other bire and pleasant Roome, called tha
Greene Boome, and one other Conduit-house, and 2 other Turrets adioininge to the walls."
MOLBORN,
A THOROUGHFARE of varying widths, extends from the north end of Farringdon-
street to Broad-street, Bloomsbnry. It was anciently called Old-bourne, from
being built upon the side of a brook or bourne, which " broke out of the ground about
the place where now the bars do stand, and ran down the whole street till Old-bourne
Bridge, and into the River of the Wells, or Tumemill Brook." {Stow) 1502. « The
deche from the Temse to Holbome-brygge new caat." (Q-rey Fnar^ Chronicle) The
stream now nms the same course along the common sewer ; and the arch of Holbom-
bridge was uncovered in 1841. Holbom was first paved in 1417, at the expense of
Henry V., when the highway " was so deep and miry that many perils and hazards
were thereby occasioned, as well to the king's carriages passing that way, as to those
of his subjects." (Rymer*s Fadera, vol. ix. p. 447.) By this road criminals were con-
veyed from Newgate and the Tower to the gallows at St. Giles's and Tyburn;
whither a ride in the cart " up the Heavy Hill" implied going to be hung, in Ben
Jonson's time»
"Aa clever Tom Clinch, while ttie rabble was bawUng,
Rode stately through Holbom to die of his calling.
He stopt at the George for a bottle of sack.
And promised to pay for it when he came back."— AD^fl, 1727.
"An old Counsellor in Holbom used everr execution-day to tum out his clerks with this oomidi-
nent : Go, ye young rogues ; go to school and improve."— row Brown,
To remedy the declivities of Holbom and Snow Hill, various plima have been proposed,
by viaducts crossing the valley of the Fleet, and otherwise. Alderman Skinner, who
roilt Sldnner-street^ proposed to constnict a bridge from Snow-hill across the valley
to Holbom-hill; and to lift the valley 17 feet forms part of Mr. Charles Pearson's
plan. The traffic is much larger than is generally believed : for example, of 9950
vehicles passing over Holbom-hill, 1013, or about one-tenth, go up and down fr^m the
low levels ; and of 10,723 passing through Skinner-street and Snow-hill, 8219, or about
three-tenths, go up and down from the low levels.
The Corporation plan provides that the line of improvement from east to west shall
commence at or near the Old Buley, and terminate at a point 55 feet beyond the
western nde of Hatton-garden by a high-level roadway formed 80 feet wide, with an
almost imperceptible gradient. Farringdon-street is to be crossed by a bridge with
a minimum central headway of 21 feet. Two new streets are to be laid down, both
'^'uting from Farringdon-road, to afford communication for vehicles between the upper
•ad lower levels*
|. ^{^^H Holbom-hni, oppodto Shoe-lane, the well-known house of Messn. Fearon, was established at
^^^^mning of the present century. The amount of the wines and spirits sold thero was much
^l^verted in the IHmms newspaper. In 1829: a Correspondent, December 14, stated that he had
lual to
iscon-
ftAn ^ . - ... » ^months reaches
« qnarter of a million customers. Messrs. Fearon have been celebrated in the verse of Thomas Hood,
»!lk T"'^^^ home to his wife, in 1836, fW>m Botterdam, implied that he had taken some English gin
wna him as a travelling companion, perhaps a parting present from Mrs. Hoods ^ he says t^
" ^e flavour now of Fearon's,
That mingles in my dram.
Beminds me you're in England»
And I'm in Botterdam/'
430 CURIOSITIES OF LONDON.
And be oonoladn with^
*'The girl I love In England
I drink at Botterdam."
The founder of the honse was Mr. Henry Bradshaw Fearon, who yidted America in 1818, and on
hfa retom publiahed " A NarratiYe of a Journey of Fire Thouaand Milea through the Eaatem and
Western SUtes."
On the north mde is Elj-place, built upon part of the site of the palace of the
Bishops of Ely. {See Ely House, p. 321.)
In Holbom are Thavie's, Barnard's, Fumival's, Staple's, and Gray's Inns. (See Ixys
OP CouBT.) At the comer of Fumivars Inn, and in Queen-street, Cheapside, Mr.
Edward Kidder, the famous pastry-cook (who died April, 1739, aged 73 years), had two
schools, in which he taught nearly six thousand ladies the art of making pastry.
Kidder published his receipts, engpraved on copper, in a thin 8vo, with his portrait
as a frontispiece.
At No. 39, Brooke-street, died Chatterton. Of the house, occupied by Mr. Jefford,
a plumber, Mr. Hotten, in his Adversaria, gives these very interesting reminiscences : —
" We know, fh>m the account of Sir Herbert Croft, that Chatterton occupied the garret— a room look-
ing out into the street, as the only garret in this house does. I remember tnis room Tery well, as it was
twenty-six years ago, soon after wliich the occupier made some alterations in it. It must thai have
been substantially In the same condition as in 1770 ; for the walls were old and dilapidated, and the
flooring decayed. It was a square and rather largo room for sn attic It had two windows in it—
lattice-windows or casements— built in a style which I think is called "Dormer." Outside ran the
gutter, with a low parapet-wall, orer whidi you could look into the street below. The roof was Terr
K>w, so low, that I, who am not a tall man, could hardly stand upright in it with my hat on ; and it had
a very long sfope extending from the middle of the room down to the windows. It is a curious fact,
that in the well-known picture (The Death of Chatterton, by Wallis) exhibited at Manchester, St. Paul's
is >isible through the window ; I say a singular fiict^ because, altliough this is strictly in accordance
with the truth, as now known, the story pre^ously believed was, that the house was opposite, where no
room looking into the street could have commanded a view of St. Paul's. This, however, could only
have been a lucky accident of the painter's. About the period I have mentioned, tne tenant divided the
garret into two with a partition, carried the roof up, making it horizontal, and made some other altera-
nons, which have gone fkr to destrov the identity of the room. It is a singular coincidence, seeing the
connexion between the names of Wafpole and Chatterton, that my friend, Mrs. Jefibrd, (he wife of the
now occupier, who has resided there more than twentv years, was for some years in the service of Horace
Walpole, idflerwards Lord Orford. She is a very old lady, and remembers Lord Orford well, having
entered his fiunily as a girl, and continued in it tilf he died, near the end of the last century."
Gerarde, the herbalist, had a large physic-garden in Holbom. Howel dates one of
his Familiar Letters, Holbom, 3 Jan. 1641, "to Sir Kenelm Digby, at his house in
Saint Martin's-lane." Sir Kenelm lived, before the Civil Wars, between King-street
and Southampton-street ; Milton in Holborn-row, in a house opening into Lincoln's-
inn-fields ; and Dr. Johnson, in 1748, at the Golden Anchor, Holbom-bars. These
were the City boundaries, now marked by two granite obelisks near Middle-row, at
the south-east corner of which Sir James Branscomb kept a lottery -office forty years :
he had been footman to the Earl of Gainsborough, and was knighted when sheriiF of
London and Middlesex in 1806.
Next is Middle-row, which has, for two centuries, been considered an obstruction.
Howel, in his Ferlustration of London, 1667, p. 344, observes : — " Southward of
Gray's-inn-lane there is a row of small houses, which is a mighty hindrance to Holbom
in point of prospect, which, if they were taken down, there would be from Holbom
Conduit to St. Giles's-in-the- Fields one of the fairest rising streets in the world."
These obstructive buildings have been condemned for removal. The old row is shown
in Faithorne's Ichnographical Delineation of London in the reign of Charles I.» a &c-
simile of which, engraved on copper, has lately been executed.
Southampton-buildings, Holborn, denotes the site of the mansion of the Wriothesleya,
Earls of Southampton ; and Brooke-street that of the residence of Sir* Fulke Greville,
Lord Brooke, the friend of Sir Philip Sidney. Gate-street, and Great, Little, and New
Turnstiles, lead into Lincoln's-Ion-fields ; between the north side of which and the
south side of Holborn is Whetstone's Park, a profligate resort of two centuries sincc^
commemorated in the plays of Dryden, Shadwell, and Wycherley.
Paul Wliitchead was bom in Castle-yard, Holbom, on 6th February, 1710, cs., being St Paul's-dav,
from which circumHtance he is said to nave derived his Christian name, ludicrously unsuitable to his
character, and made more memorably ridiculoas by his brother satirist Churchill's well-known
Uucs: —
" Mav I (can worse disgrace o'er manhood fall P)
lie bom a Whitehead and inspired a Paul."
HOLLAND HOUSE, KEN8INGT0K 431
On the north side of High Holborn, hetween Nos. 110 and 77 (see bonndary-maria
in the pavement), is the Holhom Charity JEHate of St. Clement Danes parish,
which plot of ground and some old bnildlngs were purchased in 1552, for IQOl^ when
Uolbom was almost a country road from the City to the village of St. Giles. The pro-
perty now produces 4000/. a year, expended in schools, almshouses, and other charities.
The almshouBes were first built at the east end of St. Clement's Church, Strand ; next,
about 1790, at the back of Clement's Inn Hall; and in 1848-9 the Charity was removed
to forty almahonses built in Oarratt-lane, Streatham : infant-schools were erected in Mil-
ford-lane, Strand, in 1852. Upon the Holbom Estate is Day and Martin's Blacking
Factory, N<^ 97, built at a cost of 12,000Z. : here Mr. Day amassed great wealth, and,
d^'ing in 1836, left 100,0002. for the benefit of persons, like himself, deprived of sight.
In Endell-atreet (formerly Old Belton-street), High Holbom, leading to Long-acre^
on the east side, is the Early English Christ Church, erected in 1845 ; next is the
British Lying-in Hospital, a picturesque Elizabethan structure, built in 1849 ; and a
handsome Italianized edifice for Baths and Wash-houses, built in 1852, not fkr from
the dte of " Queen Anne's Bath ;" whilst^ nearly in a line with Endell-street, are
the Industrial Schools, opened in 1852 ; and in Bloomsbury-street, northward, side
by side, are three chapels in Early Pointed, Lomberdic, and rococo styles : six of these
seven edifices of religion and philanthropy were erected within eight years.
Eingqgate-Btreet, between 116 and 117 High Holbom, is named from the Eing's-
gate, this being the royal road to Newmarket ; and Pepys records, 8 March, 1668-9,
the King and the Duke of York, and the Duke of Monmouth, leaving Whitehall at
three in the morning, in their coach, which was overset at the King's-gate : '* it was
dark, and the torches did not, they say, light the coach as they should <^." Here, in
1852, was an old public-house, sign the Red Gate.
In Holbom also are Field-lanb, Elt-flace, FjETTEB-LAms, FiTLWOOD's-BEirrs,
Chawcebt-lavs, and DurBT-LAms, which names see. From Farringdon-street to
Petter-Ume is " Holbom Hill ;" Fetter-lane to Brooke-street, " Holbom j" and from
Brooke-street to Drury-lane, " High Holbom."
On the south side, nearly upon the site of Warwick House, is the Holbom Theatre,
built in 1866, and opened Oct. 6.
In the reign of Edward the Sixth, the aofhoritles ordered the remoral of all the King*! rerels and
msaqoesfrom Warwick House. Holbom. to '*the Imte dissolTod house of Blackfrian, London." The
plajen who removed from Holbom to BlackfHan opened the latter theatre with scenery and machinerj,
lonffbefore the period at which those adjuncts are said to have been introduced by Davenant. When
the Poritana eloeed the theatres, the gected actors complained that thej were not allowed to act at all,
while the drama of '* Bd and the Dragon," performed by poppets, was creating an uproar at the foot
of Holbom-bridge.— ^<A«ii«Kfls No. 2038.
On the north side was the old historic inn, the C^eorge and Blue Boar, upon the site
of which has been erected the Inns of Court Hotel.
HOLLAND HOUSE, KENSINGTON,
A LITTLE west of the town, and about two miles from the metropolis, is a pic*
turesque Elizabethan pile, placed in a beautiful park about midway between the
Kensington and Uxbridge roads. This mansion, which is the manor-house of Abbots
Kennngton, was built in 1607 for Sir Walter Cope, and descended to his son-in-law,
Henry Rich, first Earl of HolUmd ; whence it was named Holland House. The Earl
was twice made prisoner here — ^by Charles I. in 1633, for his challenging Lord Weston ;
and by command of the Parliament, after his attempt to restore the king, for which
be was beheaded in 1649. Holland House was next ocoupied by Sir Thomas Fairfax,
afterwards Lord, the Parliamentary General, as his head-quarters.
"The Lord-General (Fdrfax) is removed from Qneen-strcet to the late Earl of Holland's honao at
Kensington, where he intends to reside/'— P«i/«r< Diwmal, 9th to 16th July, 1649.
The mansion was, however, soon restored to the Countess of Holland. During the
^'otectorate, " in Oliver's time," plays were privately performed here. In 1716 the
^>^te passed to Addison the Essayist, by his marriage with Charlotte, Countess
l^owager of HoUand and Warwick ; and here Addison died June 17, 1719 : havmg
432 CURIOSITIES OF LONDON.
fiddreswd to the dissolute Earl of Warwick these solemn words : " I have sent for yon
that yoa may see how a Christian can die !" he shortly after expired :
" There tanght as how to U?e, sod— oh, too high
The price of knowledge I— taught as how to die.**
The yoang Earl himself died in 1721. Ahont the year 1762, the estate was sold to
Henry Fox, the first Baron Holland of that name, whose seoond son, Charles James
Fox, passed his early years at Holland Hoose ; and here lived his nephew, the accom-
plished peer, at whose death, in 1840, the estate descended to his only son, the last
Lord Holluid, by whom the olden character of the mansion and its appurtenance
was stadionsly maintained : the latest restorations are by Barry, RJL
Thorpe's drawings of Holland House are preserved in the Soanean Museam. Its
plan is that of half the letter H ; it first consisted of the centre and turrets only, to
which Henry Rich, Earl of Holland, added the wings, and their connecting arcades :
the materials are deep-red brick, with stone finishings ; but the exterior has lost many
of its original features. Eastward is a stone gateway, designed by Inigo Jones, and
carved by N. Stone ; the lodges and enriched metal gates in the Kensington-road were
added in 1838. The raised terrace, with an open parapet and vases of plants, was
added to the south front in 184S, when also the public footpath was diverted to the
east side of the Park. In the Hall is the model of Westmaootfs statue of Fox, erected
in Bloomsbury-square. In the Journal-room (which contains a complete set of the
Joamals of the Lords and Commons) is a large collection of preserved birds, reptiles,
insects, shells, minerals, &c. The Great Staircase and the G-ilt Room are of the time
of James I. ; the former has masnve balustrades, carved into arches, &c. The Gilt
Room is mostly by Francis Cleyn, who was much employed by James I. and
Charles I. : the cdling " in grotesque,'^ by Cle^m, fell down during the minority of the
third Lord Holland ; the wainscot panels have alternately gold fieurs-de-lis on blue,
within palm-branches ; and gold crosslets on red, encircled with laurel ; with the arms
of the Rich and Cope families, and the punning motto, IHHor est qui ae? — Who more
rich than he ? The entablature has a painted leaf enrichment, with gilt acorns be-
tween ; the compartments of the two fire-places are painted with female figures and
bas-relieft from the antique fresco of the JJdobrandini Marriage, executed by Cleyn,
and not unworthy of Parmegiano : among the fiimiture are carved and gilt shell-back
chairs, also by Cleyn, and a table from the Charter-house halL Here are marble busts
of George IV. when Regent; William IV.; Henry IV. of France; the Duke of
Sussex ; the Duke of Cumberland of Culloden, by Rysbrack ; the third Lord Holland ;
C. J. Fox, by Nollekens, a duplicate made for the Empress Catherine of Russia;
Napoleon, by Milne; Ariosto, copied from his tomb; and Henry Fox^ first Lord
Holland, often declared by Bartolozri to be " one of the finest spedmens of sculpture
rince the days of Phidias or Praxiteles." In the bow recess are models of Henry
Earl of Pembroke and Thomas Winnington, Esq. {See Richardson's Architectural
Semains of the Beiffiu of BUzaheth and Jama I.)
In the breakfast-room are fiimily portraits by Lely, Eneller, Reynolds, Hoppner,
Ac. ; and in the Great Drawing-room (40 feet by 18 feet) are some very fine pictures,
including a scene by Hogarth from Dtyden's Indian Smperor, acted by children, all
portraits ; a Sea-port, by Velasquez; a Holy Family, on copper, by Murillo; a Man
and Boy eating Fruit, by Velasquez; Hope nourishing Love; and balf-leng^ths of
Garrick and Sterne, by Reynolds. The Library, or Long (Gallery, 102 feet by 17 feet
4 inches, forms the eastern wing of the mansion : the collection exceeds 18,000, besides
MSS. and autographs, including three plays of Lope de Vega. In the other apartments
are valuable pictures, miniatures, drawings, sculptures ; with enriched cabinets, vases,*
carvings in ivory, china, filagree-work, time-pieces, Ac In the Ante-room is the
fiunous oollectiou of miniatures. Here, too, is Reynolds's celebrated picture of Lady
Susan Lennox leaning from a bay-window on the north side of Holland House, to
receive a dove from Lady Susan Strangways, near whom is Charles James Fox,
when a boy of fourteen.
This ** brave old house" is charmingly placed upon high ground :
" Thou hilL whose brow the antique stnicturee graoe.*'
TiekeU^QntkeD&aikqfAddimm
E0B8E-FEBBY (THE). 433
the upper apartments are stated to be on a level with the stone gallery of St. Panl's
Cathedral. The aonthem park is enclosed with noble elms. Against the hoose grow
some curious old exotic plants. The gardens abound with architectural quaintness :
of parterres in Italian scroUs and devices, and box and dwarf oaks clipped into globes ;
flower beds in the forms of a fox (in allusion to the family name), and the old Eng-
lish 3| ; the effect of the flowers uded by coloured sand, and the outlines of box-edging.
In a parterre near the house, upon a granite column, is a bronze bust of Buonaparte,
by Canova, the pillar inscribed with a verse from Homer's Od^tsey ; and in the north
garden-wall is an arbour with this distich by Vassall Lord Holland :
" Here Boesas sat— and here for ever dwell
With me those * Pleaearee' which he sang lo welL"~yn. Hd.
Beneath are some lines added in 1818 by Henry LuttreL
In the French garden, in 1804, was first raised in England the Dahlia, from seeds
sent to Vassall Lord Holland from Spain. The grounds westward, with their stately
oaks and cedars, were laid out and planted in 1769 by the Hon. Charles Hamilton, of
Fiaina Hill, in Surrey.
Anbr^ relates two supexBatonU appeanmoee at Holland Hoose ; tlie first to " the beaatiftil Lady
Diana Rich, daoffhter to the Earl of Holland, as she was walking in her father's g^irden at Kensing«
ton," when she ^' met with her own apparition, habit and everj thug, as in a looking-glass. Abont a
month after she died of the small-pox." Aubrej's second story is that the th^d &nghter of Lord
Holland, not long after her marriage with the first Earl of Breadalbwne^ " had some such warning of
approaching dissolution."
In a meadow west of Holland House was fought, March 7, 1804, a fatal duel
between the late Lord Camelford and Captain Best, R.K. : upon the spot where Lord
Camelford fell is an antiqae Roman altar, placed there and thus inscribed by Vassall
Lord Holland : " Hoc dIs hak . toto discoediak dsfiubcaiit7B."
The Highland and Scottish Societies* gatherings, with their characteristic sports and
pastimes, have been frequently held in Holland Park north, rinoe 1849.
There is a traditional story that Addison, to escape from his termagant countess,
often walked from Holland House to the White Horse Inn, at the comer of " Lord
Holland's Lane" (no longer a thoroughfare), on the site of the present Holland Arms
Inn ; and there enjoyed " his fkvoarite dish, a fillet of veal, his bottle, and perhaps a
friend." {Spenee^ Before his marriage, Addison lived in Eenangton*square.
Holland House is associated " with the conrtly magnificence of Bidi, with the loves of Ormond, the
ooondls of CromwelL with the death of Addiscm." It has been for nearly two oentories and a half the
flivoarite reeort of wits and beanties, of painters and poets, of scholars, philosophersy and statesmen.
In the lifetime of Vassall Lord HoUand it was the meeting-place of *' the whig Party;" and his liberal
hospitality made it **the resort not only of the most interesting persons composing English sodetv,
literary, imiloeophical, and political, but also to all belonging to those classes who ever visited this
ooontiy from abroad." {Lord Brvugkam,) In this dellghtAii cirde, *' every talent and eveiy accomplish-
ment, every art and science, had itsplace. . . The last debate was dlBoossed in one comer, and the
last oomedV of Scribe in another; while Wilkie gazed with admiration on Beynolds's Baretti j while
llaeUntosh tnmed over Thomas Aqoinas to verify a qnotatlon; while Talleyrand related his conversa-
tion with Barras at the Loxemboarg. or his ride with Lannes over the fields of Aosterlitz." O'^urray's
JSmnrow <ff London.) '* Holland House " (says Maoanlay) "can boast of a greater numbw of
iTiTTftft dlsUoguished in political and literary histoiy than any other private dwelling in England.**
SOSSE'FJSSBY (THE),
BETWEEN Westminster and Lambeth, was the only Horse-ferry permitted on the
Thames at London, and was granted by patent to the Archbishop of Canterbury;
the ferry-boat station being near the palace-gate. Here were two inns for the recep-
tion of travellers, who arriving at night, did not choose to cross the water at such an
hoar, or in case of bad weather, might prefer waiting for better. On opening West-
minster Bridge, 1750, the ferry ceased, and compensation was granted to the See.
(Bbipgxs, p. 69.)
The rates were, for a man and horse, 2f . ; horse and chaise, 1«. ; coach and two
horses, 1«. 6d, ; coach and four horses, 2f . ; coach and six horses, 2f . 6d. ; cart loaded,
2«. 6d. ; cart or wagon, each 2f.
At the time of the Usurpation, a wooden house was built for a small guard posted here. M. da
Laozon mentions the fierry in his account of the escape of the Queen of James If.. Deo. 9, 1688: Sir
Edward Hales being in attendance with a hackney-coach, "we drove from Whitehall to Westminster,
and arrived safely at the place called the Horse-ierry, where I had engaged a boat to wait for me."
The same author odost *'The King, attended by Sir Edward Hales, who was waiting Cor tum«
434 CURIOSITIES OF LONDON.
deteended the btck italn» and eroMlnir PtItj Oaideng, m the Qoeen had done two nights hefore, pro-
ceeded to the Hone-fenr, and crosied the Thamee in a little hoat with a ain^le pair of oan to VanxhalL
He threw the Great Seal into the rlxer by the way; bat it was afterwaida recovered, in a net cast at
random, by some fishermen."
" Very early one morning, the Doke of Marlboroogh, with hii hounds, desix«d to cross by the Ferry;
onp Wharton, the waterman at hand, was subsequently rewarded by the Duke obtaining fbr him a
grant of the Ferry-house^ the present owner of which is a descendant of Wharton."— Waloott'a Wt$t-
' ^ r, IW*, p. 888.
EORSE'QUARDS (THE),
AT Whitehall, is named from a troop of Hone-Gaarda being constantly on duty
here : the bailings comprise the offices of the Secretaxy-at-War, the Commander-
in-Chief, the A<]tjutant-General, and Qoartermaster-Qeneral. The Horse-Guards were
originally raised by Cliarles IL, who had built for them stables aud barracks in the
Tilt-yard of Whitehall, which Pennant has engraved, with " the Banqueting^house^
ooe of the gates, the Treasury in its ancient state, and the top of the Cock-pit in the
back view.'' These stables and barracks were removed in 1751, and the present
Horse-Guards was built of stone from a design commenced by Vardy, and completed
by Kent, " broken into complex forms, much in the picturesque style of Vanbrugh."
(Weale's London^ It oonasts of a centre and two pavilion wings, with a turret and
dock; the west front opening into St. James's Park, by a low and mean archwfay;
the entrie for carriages is only for royal and other privileged personages. In
the rear u the psfrade-ground, part of the ancient Tilt-yard, with a guard staUon for
infantry; and here inspections of the troops take place. In the vestibule of the
building is the boundary-line of the parishes of St. Martin's and St. Margaret's, West-
minster, denoted by inscriptions. In the Audience-room, facing the Park, the Military
Secretary and the Commander of the Forces hold their levees : here are portraits, by
Gainsborough, of George III. and his Consort; and a bust of Field Marshal the Duke of
York. Attached to the Quartermaster-General's office is a Board of Topography, with a
depAt of mapsy plans, and a library of military works. In the Guards' Mess-room is a
portrait of Aubrey de Vere» Earl of Oxford, in armour, commander of Charles II.'s
** Regiment of Horsey" and after whom were named the " Oxford Blues," now the
Boyal Horse-Guards Blue.
In two stone aloores, flanking the gates, ftdng Whitelian. is stationed a guard of two mounted
cavalry soldiers firom ten to four o'docL relieved every two nours ; when the doors in the rear are
thrown open, and the two reliering guards enter ; wliUst those relieved ride out in flront, deseribe a
semicircle, meet, and ride side by side Uirough the central gate, and so back to their stable. Orders
oonceming all the the Guards in London are gi?en out by the field oflOcer on duty at tbe Horse^uards.
The marching and countermarching of the Guards drawn from the cavalry barracks at Knightsbrldge
and the Begent's Park, is a picturesque scene, as the troop passes through the Parks, on the march
line of Portland-place, Beffent^treet, and Waterloo*plaoe : their stately cuirassed and helmeted
figures, and the splendour of their aoooutrements, rendering them the most magnificent " Household
troops ^' in Europe.
The Horse-Guards' Clock has about the same popular reputation for correct time at
the west end of the town, that St. Foul's dock holds in the City. The Horse-Guards'
Clock was originally made by Thwaites, in I7&6. The Clock was repaired, and im-
provements added by VuUiamy and Sons, 1815-16 : it has since measured time witli
sufficient accuracy for any practical purpose not connected with astronomical observa-
tions; but much of its reputation may be conventional — ^from the rigid punctuality with
which the slightest military movement is executed. The dials are each 7 feet 5 inches
diameter, and painted white, with black numerals and hands ; the Whitehall dial is
very effectively illuminated at night by a strong light thrown from a lamp, with a
reflector, placed on the projecting roof in front of the dock-tower.
On the night before the Funeral of the Duke of Wellington, Nov. 18, 1852, the remains were removed
firom Chelsea HospiUd to the Audience Boom in tbe Horse-Guards. Upon the parade-ground was
erect€fd a gigantic pavilion, beneath which was tbe ear of state, upon which, next morning, was placed the
coffin. At the word of command, " Present aims !" every musket and sword were rused, the muffled
drums gave a long and heaiT roll, minute-guns fired a ftmeral salute, the troops were ordered to
** Reverse arms 1" and there, m the attitude of mourners, and in view of the body of the illustrious
deceased, the militair awaited the signal to move off. The word of command was given ; every band
played ** the Dead March in Saul ; " a tremendous roll of drums denoted that the Coldstreama were
m moUon, and the procession moved on. The twelve horses attached to the Mineral car drew it from
under the tent; the colonels carrying the bannerols surrounded the car, and their gaily-painted flags,
the rich bronze of the car. the gilt bier, the trophies of modem arms, the canopy of silver tissue and
the crimson and gold of the coffin, the pall powdered with silver heraldio collars ; with such pomp
and steteliness, the mortal remains of Wellmgton left the scene oonsecrated by his labours no less than
hj his Tictories.
HOSPITALS. 435
SOSPITALS.
OF tbe Charitable InstitatioiiB of the Metropolis, one quarter conrigts of Qeneral
Hospitals, Medical Charities for special purposes, Dispensaries, and Societies for
the preservation of life and public morals, mostly supported by donations and annual
sobscriptions. We can only describe a few of such of these establishments as have
remarkable histories.
Of the Hye andent Royal Hospitals of the City of London, three are Medical : two
of these have been described as follows :— St. Babtholomew'b, p. 86 ; Bethlehbm,
p. 66. The third, St. Thouas's Hospital, Southwark, was originally a house of
alma, founded by the Prior of Bermondseye, in 1218, adjoining the wall of that
monastery. After the Surrender in 1539, it was purchased by the City of London,
chartered, in 1651, as one of the five royal foundations, and opened in 1552. In 1569,
the funds were so low that a lease was pawned for 501, Strange mutations have come
over this spot, which for six centuries and a half had been the site of a Hospital, or
near^ three centuries and a half before it was refounded and endowed by the pious
King Edward Y I., who confirmed the gift only ten days before his death ; and it was
delivered over by charter (the 6th and 7th of Edward VI.) to the mayor, commonalty,
and citizens of London, and was named the London House of the Poor in Southwark,
to be rituated in London or Southwark, for poor, sick, infirm, wayfiuing people. Much
injury was done to the property belonging to the establishment by the fires which took
place in Southwark in 1676, 1681, and 1689, although the Hospital itself suffered no
damage on either occarion. The Fire of 1676 consumed five hundred houses in Southwark,
** yet," says Hatton, "as by the particular will of Heaven, was extinguished at this Hos-
ptal.'' However, at the close of the seventeenth century the buildings had become so
much decayed that there was founded a subscription fund, to which Bobert Clayton,
tbe Preadent, contributed 6002. ; he also bequeathed to the sick poor 23002. The
Hospital was enlarged in 1782 : the wards Fitjderick and Quy were named from their
founders, the latter of whom built a pair of large iron gates ; on the two piers were
statues of cripples. The Hospital was, in part, reconstructed in 1836, by Sir Robert
Smirke and Mr. Field. The site of the new north wing of the Hospital, at the south
end of London-bridge^ was purchased of the City of London finr the sum of 40,850Z.,
which was not considered an extravagant price, though at the rate of 64,8852. per acre.
The site of two houses adjoining the above spot was sold by the Hospital to the City
at the enormous rate of 69,9352. per acre ! The Hospital consisted of three courts, and
colonnades : in the first court was a bronze statue of Edward VI., by Scheemakers, set up
by Charles Joyce, Esq., in 1737. In the seoond court was the chapel for patients —
service daily ; St. Thomas's church, described at p. 208 ; the hall, and kitchen ; and over
the Doric colonnade was the Court-room, with portraits of Edward VI., William II L
and Queen Mary, Sir Bobert Clayton, and other of the Hospital presidents. In the
third court was the statue of Sir Bobert Clapton, robed as Lord Mayor, erected in his
life-time by the Hospital governors. In a smaller court were the cutting-ward,
surgery, bathing-rooms, theatre, and dead-house. There were twenty wards for
patients, each superintended by a Sister. The Hospital, of four acres, and buildings
were on the east side of High-street» Southwark, and the site was sold to the Charing-
cross Bailway Company ; the Governors claiming as compensation 760,0002. The
Railway Company ofiered them terms equivalent to 400,0002. ; and, after a litiga-
tion which absorbed little less than 26,0002., 296,0002. were awarded by the arbi-
trator. The patients were then removed to a temporary hospital, late a Muric-hall,
Surrey Zoological Gardens. It was next proposed to rebmld the Hospital in the
country ; but the choice of a site in the metropolis prevailed. It was contended that in
1631 the Lord Mayor counted 16,880 persons in Southwark, and that now Southwark
and the neighbouring parishes, all of which are obliged to avail themselves largely of
the aid of this Hospital, contain more than half a nuUion persons, the great nu\jority of
whom are poor hardworking people. The site was definitively settled in Stangate^
facing the Thames, immediately west of the southern end of Westminster Bridge.
Tlie income of the Hospital has increased from 12,0002. to 35,0002. rince the beginning
of tbe century. Among the expenditure for 1861 is 69422. for provinons, 26342. for
y s2
436 CUBI08ITIE8 OF LONDON.
drugs, 9827. for wine and spirits, 8587. for porter, 7777. for washing, 8I&67. for salaries
to medical officers, 22677. for wages to nsters and nnrses, 1617. for hospital dinners^
and 7477. for insurance against fire. The in-patients of the year were 8948 in nom-
ber, the ont-patients 41,814.
In NoTonber, 1866, was decided in the Coort of Qaeen's Bench, the case relating to the right of the
of Lord Major; or. at all eyents, an aiaerman. Tnere were two canoidates. or wnom Mr. i;abiu (since
deceased), who haa the m^ority of votes, havuig resigned his gown— although he had ** passed tiu»
chair" — ^was not an alderman ; and his opponent, Alderman Rose, was at the time Lord Mayor, so that
he was both alderman and " Grey oloake — the term used in the ordinances to denote those aJdermen
who had passed the <^air. Jadgment was given for the defendants— tliat is, for the Hospital. The
result of the dedston is that tiM Qoreroors of the great Hospitals have free choice in the election of
their Presidents.
CujlBISQ-crobb Hosfitax, Agar-street, was commenced by Dedmos Barton, as a
portion of the West-Strand Improvements, in 1831 ; when the first stone was laid,
Sept. 15, with Masonic solemnity, by the Duke of Sussex, Grand Master of the Free-
masons. The Charity, founded in 1818, comprises a Dispensary and Casualty Hospital,
being the eighth established in the metropolis, the popuUtion of which had doubled
once the seventh Hospital was instituted. The architecture is Grecian, and the circular
termination of the plan well accords with the form of the site. Although upwards of
1000 in-patients and 17,000 out have been treated in one year, the annual average ex-
penditure of the establishment is stated at only 25067.
One day a gentleman called at the CharingHiross Hospital and inquired of the porter whether some
money he had just put into one of the ooUeoang^boxee would be safe. Having been assured it would,
he immediately went away. The same day a fnend of the institution, walkmg past the above-men-
tioned box, aaw, or fimcied that he saw, something in it. On applying his penknife carefully, he suo
ceeded in extracting twenty-two lOZ.-notes. Having taken these into the Hospital and informed the
resident ofBoers of the droumstance, the box was examined, and three more notes found, making a total
of 2602. thus freely and anonymously contributed to the ftands of this deserving charity.
CovsTJMPnoK Hospital, Brompton, fronting the Fulham-road, was commenced in
1844, June 11, when Prince Albert laid the first stone ; the site was formerly a nursery
garden, and the genial, moist air of Brompton has long been recommended for con-
sumptive patients. The Hospital is in the Tudor style, of red brick, with stone finish-
ings; FrancLB, architect ; it was opened in 1846. In 1850 was attached an elegant
memorial chapel (see Chapels, p. 213) ; and in 1852 was added the western wing of
he Hospital, towards which Mdlle. Jenny Lind, when residing at Old Brompton, in
July, 1848, munificently presented 16067. IGs., the proceeds of a concert held by her
for its aid. This noble act is gracefully commemorated by Mdlle. Lind's bust being
placed upon the Hospital staircase : here also is a paint^ window, of characteristic
design, presented by a governor. The Hospital is ventilated by machinery, worked by
a steam-engine ; and is warmed by water heated by two large Amott stoves. In the
kitchen, steam is used for boiling <»ldrons of beef-tea, mutton-broth, arrow-root, cofiee,
chocolate, &c. ; and the provisions are wound up a shaft to the respective wards. The
patients take exercise in the well-ventilated passages : and the wards are tempered by
warm fresh air, which enters at the fioor, and escapes by valves in the ceiling. There
are a library for the in-patients, and the Bose Charity Fund for convalescents. The
deaths in this new Hospital have never exceeded one in every five in-patienls, whereas
in the former Hospital they were one in four.
"Fbsscb Pbotestakt Hospital, Victoria Park, South Hackney, was built in 1866,
in the pure French domestic style of the early port of the sixteenth century, corre-
sponding to our Tudor; B. L. Boumieu, architect. It is 200 feet long, and stands on
three acres of pleasure-ground; it has 60 inmates, and a chapel for 120 persons. The
hospice owes its origin to a bequest of M. Grastigny, who held an appointment under
William III., and dying in 1708, left 10007. towards founding a permanent home and
place of temporary relief for poor French Protestants and their descendants resident
in England. To this fund the wealthier French Protestants contributed liberally, and
premises were built in a bye-lane leadiiig from Old-street, St. Luke's, to Islington, now
Bath-street, City -road. Here the hospital remained untU the removal to Victoria Park.
The old buildings in Bath-street are now the City of London Middle-Class SchooL
St. Qeobgb's Hospital, Hyde-Park Corner, originated with a party of dissentient
HOSPITAL— GUTS. 487
Gorernora of Westmiiuter Hospital, who, in 1788, ocnverted Lanesboroagh House,
GrosreDor-plaoe, into an Infirmary. Pennant describes the old manuon as the oountry*
house of
" The lober Laoesborow dancing, in the goat :**
hence also the quaint distich inscribed on the boose-front :— -
"It iB my delight to be
Both iB town and conntTy."
The Hospital has been rebuilt; architect, l^ilkins, B.A., 1831; the grand fronts
&cing the Green Park, is very elegant. William Honter was a surgical pnpil at St.
George's in 1741, when he resided with the eminent Smellie, at that time an apothe-
caiy in Pall Mall. William's brother, John Hunter, was appointed surgeon to SU
George's in 1768; and here, in 1798, he died of disease of the heart.
Guy's Hosfital, Southwark, on the south side of St. Thomas's-street, was built by
Dance, the City architect, in 1722-4^ at the sole expense of Thomas Guy, the book«
seller in Lombard-street, who by printing and selling Bibles made a fortune : this he
greatly increased by purchasing seamen's tickets at a IdTge discount, and afterwards
investuig them in the South-Sea Company.
Guy wts the son of a Ughtennan at Horseljdown, where he was bom in 1644. He was apprenticed
to John Clarke, bookseller and binder, in a house in tiie porch of Meroen' Hall, Cheapiide, in 1060. In
thii house, reboilt after the Great Fire, Guy commenced boainesi for himself ; and he tabeequently re-
moved to the house between Comhill and Lombard-street, sabeeqaently known as "the Lncky Ck>mer,'*
and Pidding's Lotteiy OfBoe, nearly on tiie site of the Globe Insoranoe Gompany'B offices. Gtiy had
*8ned to manr his hoaseke^er, who, however, displeased him, and thenceforth he devt>ted his immense
mtane to works of charity. In 1707, he bailt and furnished three wards of St. Thomas's Hospital ; the
£>tely iron gate, with the large houses flanking it in High-street, Guy also built at the expense of 3000JL
He was a literal beueflwtor to the StaUonere' Company : built and endowed almshouses and a library
St Tamworth, in BtafTordshire, the place of his mother's birth, and which he rqnresented In Parliament.
In his 76th year, he took of the president and governors of St. Thomas's Hospital a piece of ground
opposite the south side of their Hospital for 990 years, at a ground-rent of 901. a year ; thereon, in the
spring of 1728, Guy laid the first stone of a Hospital for the cure of sick and impotent persons ; and the
»<ulduig was roofra In bdbre his death. Bee. 27, 1724. The expense of erecting snd finishing the Hos-
e'tal was 18.7922. 16s., snd the sum left to endow it was 219,4992. Of . 4<<. ; the Isrgest sum ever left by an
diridual for charitable purposes. His noble example was followed by Mr. Hunt of Petersham,
vbo, hi 1829, bequeathed to the Hospital 196,116/., stipuhiting for the sdoition of sccommodation ibr
100 patients. About 10^0002. was also received from other benelkctors.
The annual income is now between 26,0002. and 90,0002., arisina chiefly flnom estates purchased with
theTalaable bequests of Guy and Hunt^ in the counties of Essex, Hereford, and Lincoln. The usual
nomber of goyemors is 60, who sre selt-eleotive. The office cannot be constituted by sny oontributicm,
and there is no published list of beneflwtors."— Low's Ckariti«$ qfLomUm, 1860.
Gay's Hospital consists of a centre and two wings; hehind is a quadrangle, and
beyond is a lunatic house for twenty-four insane patients, with a garden and airing-
ground for their recreation ; in 1839, one of these patients had been in the Hospital
fifty-three years. In the wings are the officers' apartments, a surgery, apothecary's
■hop, laboratories, medical and operating theatres, and a room for the application of
electridty and galvanism. Here, too, are a museum, library, a very fine anatomical
collection, models in wax hy Towne, &c Westward is the Chapel ; and eastward, the
Coort-Toom. Attached to the Hospital is a botanic garden for the students. In 1852
were added two handsome wii^gs, heated by Sylvester, and ventilated by a shaft 200
feet high, with an open cupola, and a wind-vane which sends down the shafb fresh
ur into the wards; while two lower shafts carry df the effluvia. In the front court
is a metal statue ol Guy, in his livery-gown, by Scheemakers; the pedestal hears
^^presentations in relief of Christ healing an impotent man ; the Good Samaritan ;
Guy's arms, and an inscription. In the centre of the front are two characteristic
B^tnes by John Bacon, a native of Southwark.
In the Chapel is a fline marble statue of Guy, hy Bacon, which cost lOOOZ, : he stands
in his livery-gown, with one hand raising an emaciated fig^ure from the ground, and
^th the other pointing to a second sufferer, as he is home on a hier into the Hospital,
^ the back : on the pedestal are emblematic medallions and a glowing inscription,
asserting that Guy "rivalled the endowment of kings." Here is buried Sir Astley
^^ooper, the distingpiished surgeon, to whom there is a nuurble monument. In the
poort-room, over ti^e president's chair, is a portrait hy Dahl, a Danish painter, of Gny,
in the hlack gown and long flowing wig of his time : on the ceiling it painted his
Apotheosis.
438 CUBI08ITIES OF LONDON.
KivGf'B CoLLBOS HoBPiTAL, Carey-stroet, Lmcoln'8-iBn-fieldB> was established in
1839 for the sick poor, for affibrding practical instmction to the medical stadents of
King's College, under their own prcMfessors. The building of a new Hospital, by sab-
scription, was oommenoed Jnne 18, 1852^ when the first stone was laid by the Arch-
bishop of Canterbury : the wards are very spadous, light, and airy ; with ventilation
by opposite windows and open fire-places, without artificial aid ; and the arrangements for
teaching include an operating theatre and chapel, dispensary, laboratory, &c
Lock Hospital, Harrow-road; Chapel and Abylttm, Westboume-green : the
Hospital established 1746, for the treatment of the peculiar disease inddent to profli-
gate women ; the Asylum founded 1787 by the Bible commentator, the Rev. Thomas
Scott, for the reclamation ^of the cured inmates to virtuous habits; and the Chapel
in 1764, for tlie ministration to the unfortunate patients and inmates. The establish-
ment was originally formed in Qrosvenor-place, where the Chapel, by its popular
preachers, became a source of income to the institution. This is the only Asylum ex-
isting in connexion with a hospital ; all penitentiaries are necessarily shut against the
sick and dying outcasts ; and for such there is no complete refuge save " the Lock
Hospital." (See Low's Chariiiet, p. 99.) In 1842, the Institution was removed to
its present site; in 1849, the success of an autogpraph appeal by the Duke of
Cambridge provided for the admission of double the number of patients.
The Lock HoBpital is so called from flie Loke or Lock, in Kent-sireet, Soathwark, a spittal for
leprotu penoni of earW date. The luune hsi been refcrrea to the old French lomiMt rags, from the
linen applied to aoree r bn^ otherwise, and ivlth more probability, from the Saxon mj, thu^ dosed, in
rtferenoe to the nec^saiy ledosion of tiie leper on aooonnt of uia infectioos natore of his disease.**
(Archer's Vetting, Part I.) We find Look "an InftrmuV' In BoileT*! Dictionary. Others trace the
Donthwark Hospital to the stream, or open sewer, called ''^the Lock," which divided the parishes of St.
George and St. Mary, Newinirton, and is shown in Booqoe's large map of Sorr^. The Hospital known
to have existed temp. Edward II., had a chapel dedicated to St. Leonard. (Tannm:) It came into the
possession of St Bartholomew's Hospital, wnenoe it received patients : fklling into decaj, it was let in
tenements, was taken down in 1800, and its site laid into the I>over*road; a portion of tiie site was,
however, consecrated as the parish onrial-ground more than a centorr since, and so oontinaes.
There were other " Locks :"— 2. Between Mile End and StratfordJe-Bow. 3. At Kingslond. between
Shoreditch and Stoke Newington, the chapel of which, St. Butholomew's, ronainedtill 1840. (See
CnAPXLs, p. 209.) A son-diai on the premises formerly bore this inscription, significant of sin and
sorrow:^
" Post Tolaptatem misericordia."
Prior to its alienation from the moUier hospital, the house had a commonication vrith the chapel so oon-
trired that the patients might take port in the sorioe withont seeing or being seen by the rest of the
congregation : and there was a similar arrangement in the Lock-cJoapel in Grosrenor^place. ^ At
Kniffhtsbridge, east of Albert-gate^ was a lozar^hoose nnder the patronage of the Abbot and Conrent
of Westminster : the Hospital chapel (Holy Trini^) remains : it was rebuilt in 1627, by a licence fr^m
Dr. Laud, then Bishop of London, as a chapel of ease to St Mortin's-in-the-Fields, within the predncts
of which it was situated ; but it was snbseqnently assigned to the parish of St George, Hauorer-sqnare^
and now forms part of Kensington. — yoie$ and Queri^, So. 114.
The two largest Leper Uospitds were, however, St. JasMv's, Westminster, founded before the Con-
3 nest {Stov), and made a royal palace by Heniy VIII. ; the original gateway remains. Next was
t. QiMt-in^ht-FUlde, founded abont 1117. {See St. Gxlkb'b, p. 376.)
LoKDOK Hospital, Whitechapel-road, originally "the London Infirmary," was
instituted 1740, in a large old mansion in Presoott-street, (Goodman's Fields; it was
inoorporated in 1758, and the present Hospital huilt on " the Mount," Whltechapel-
road. The CHiarity was established fbr the poor sick, particularly manufacturers^ sea-
men, watermen, ooal-heavers, shipwrights, labourers on the river, and children. In
1791, a Samaritan Society, at the suggestion of Sir W. Blizard (the first established),
was appended to this Hospital, for the benefit of homeless convalescents, sending them
to the sea-side, &c.
A new west wing to the Hospital was founded, July 4, ISG^, by the Prince of
Wales, when nearly 32,(X)02. was subscribed, of which 3(XX)Z. was given in one dona-
tion by Mr. T. Fowell Buxton ; Mr. J. Gumey Barclay, 80(X)2. ; and the Hon. Jamsetjce
Jejeebhoy, 2GQ0L One ward is set apart for the exclusive use of members of tho
Hebrew' persuasion, of whom large numbers reside in the neighbourhood. The Lon-
don Hospital has been in active operation more than one hundred and twenty years^
during which period it has afforded medical and surgical assistance to one million three
hundred thousand persons.
St. Lttkb's Hobfital for Lunatics was first established 1751, in a house upon
Windmill-hill, on the north side of Moorfields, nearly opposite the present Worship-
H08PITAL8-8T, LTIKEP8, MABYLEBONU, MIDBLE8EX, 439
street. In X753> papils were admitted to the Hospital ; and Dr. Battie, the original
phymcian, allowed medical men to obseiYe his practice. This practice fell into disose,
but was revived in 1843, and an annual course of chemical lectures established, at
which pupils selected by the physicians of the different metropolitan hospitals are
allowed to attend gratuitously* In 1754^ incurable patients were admitted on payment
to the Hospital on Windmill-hill. In 1782, was commenced the present St. Luke's, in
Old-street-road, when green fields could be seen in every direction ; the foundation-
stone was laid by the Duke of Montague, July 30 ; the oost^ about 50,000Z., was de-
frayed by subscription ; Qeorge Dance, jun., architect.
" There are few baildinsB in the metropolis, perhape in Europe, that, considering the poverty of the
1 Enj^lish <" " ■ '
sa or style, i
architect."— £2iR««.
material, uonunon EnKlish elamp-hridca, poaaeas aooh harmooT of proportion, with unity and appro-
priateneaa of style, as this building. It b aa characteriatic of ita oaea aa tliat of Newgate, by the aame
The Hospital was incorporated 1838 ; the end infirmaries added in 1841 ; a chapel
in 1842, and open fire-places set in the galleries; when also coercion was abolished,
padded rooms were provided for violent padents, and an airing-ground set apart for
them ; wooden doors were substituted for iron gates, and unnecessary guards and bars
Temoved from the windows. In 1843 were added reading-rooms and a library for the
patients, with bagatelle and backgammon-boards, &c. By Act 9 and 10 Vict., c. 100,
the Commissioners of Lunacy were added to the Hospital direction. In 1848, Sir
Charles Knightley presented an organ to the chapel, and daily service was first per-
formed. The Hospital was next lit with gas ; the drainage, ventilation, and supply of
water improved, by subscription at the centenary festival, Juie 25, 1851.
On St. Luke's Day (October 18), a large number of the Hospital patients are enter-
tained with dancing and nnging in the great hall in the centre of the Hospital, when
the officers, nurses, and attendants join the festival. Balls are also given fortnightly.
The mode of treatment at St. Luke's has undergone so complete a metamorphotds
within the last few years, by the institution of kindness for severity, and indulgence
for restrictions, that the maladies of the brain have been rendered as subservient to
medical sdence as the afflictions of the body. Modem experience shows that the old
terrors of the prison, brutal execrations and violence!, and those even worse scenes which
were exhibited for a small money payment to the curious, in the madhouses of the
metropolis and elsewhere, were errors. The per-centage of recoveries was, from 1821
to 1830 47i per cent.; 1831 to 1840, 56i ditto; 1841 to 1850, 60} ^tto; showing
the results of the improved treatment. But the largest per-centage of recoveries, wi^
one exception, was 6^ in 1851.
MABTI.EBONB AiH) PASDiKGTOK HoBPiTAX, Cambridgo-place, was commenced in
1845, when, June 28 (Coronation-day), the first stone was laid by Prince Albert ; the
site was originally a reservoir of the Ghrand Junction Water-works. The Hospita],
opened in 1850, is of red brick, similar to Chelsea Hospital : it is warmed and venti-
lated by the circulation of tempered atmospheric air, and the withdrawal of the foul
air from the wards; there arc shafts for conveying the food from the kitchen and medi-
dnes from the laboratory, bendes other novel mechanical applications. Hon. architect,
Mr. Hopper. The present foundation comprehends three-fourths of the whole pliixL
Mn>i>LE8£X Hospital, Charles-street, facing Bemers-street, was established 1746 :
the present building was commenced in 1755, then in Marylebone-fields ; and much
enlarged and improved in 1848; the baths, cooking apparatus, laboratory works,
ventilating shaft, and laundry, are supplied with steam-power. The Cancer-ward, a
spedal addition in this Hospital, was made in 1792, upon a plan by the benevolent
John Howard, at the sole expense of Mr. Whitbread, M.P., who endowed the ward
with 40002., that cancer-patients mighty if necessary, remain here for life.
In the CoixncQ-room la a large veUnm Benefaction-book, wherein are beaatiftiUy written the names of
the Deneflkctora to the Hoapital, from ita foundation. The binding; ia elaborately carved oak, by W. O.
Rcq^era; and the claspa, oomera, and boaaes are rich ormolu. Tms aumptoooa volume la protected by
an ornamental iron atand ; it ia intended to auperaede the large black benefkurtlon-boarda which cover
the hoq>ital walla.
One day a lady, being permitted to vlatt the warda, went from bed to bed, and in the moat quiet
and givcioua manner presented half«araovereign to almost every one of thepatienta aa a New Yeai^s
gift, and aa a thanka-offoring for her reoovery from a dangerous illneaa. Tne number of patients so
relieved amounted to nearly 800.
440 CURIOSITIES OF LONDON.
Ophthalmic {opMhalmo$, Or., the eye) HosPiTAXfi, were esUbluhed in 1804; that
in Moorfields being the first.
It was founded in 1804; it has afforded relief to npwardf of half amfllion peraona aufferiag frmn
dlacaiea of the eye. The number of attendances annually at this hospital is aboat 80,000. In one jear
the new cases alone amounted to 17,000 ; among these above SSO persona aflSicted with blindness xrom
cataract and other analogous affections were restored to light. The average attendance dailv Sa from
900 to 400. An amount of relief is confidently stated to be thus obtained &r greater than that
afforded by any similar establishment in Europe. The explanation may be found in the dense popola*
tlon by which it is surrounded, and the high reputation it has so long ei\Joyed, bringing patients from
India, America, Australia, and our remotest coloniea.
Tlie Eoyal Infirmary, Cork-street, was founded in 1804, by Sir Walter Waller
(originally Phipps, the celebrated ocaliBt), submitting to their Majesties a plan sug^gested
by the sufferings he was then endeavouring to relieve among the soldiers and sailors
who had returned from the Egyptian Expedition. The late Duke of Wellington was
president of the Moyal WeHmintter OpMhalmie JECotpUal, Chandos-street, Charing-
cross, where patients are admitted without letters.
Obthofjedic (arthos, Gr., straight, and paidos, of a child) Hospital, Rotax, 6,
Bloomsbury'Square, established 1838 for the cure of club-foot and other contractions,
by dividing the tendons, &c., was founded by Dr. Little, who introduced the Stromey-
erian operation of subcutaneous tenotomy into the metropolis. The Hospital has been
removed to 315, Oxford-street.
QuESK Cqaslotte's liYivQ-iv HosFiTAii was originally established in 1752 in
St. George's-row, near T^bum turnpike, whence it was removed to Bayswat^r in 1791 ;
and in 1810, to Lisaon-green ; the Hospital was rebuilt in 1857. Tliis excellent
charity has been patronized by Queen Charlotte, the Duke of Sussex, Queen Adeliude,
and every member of the Royal family. It affords an asylum for indigent females
during childbirth, as well as to out-patients, especdally to the wives of soldiers or
sailors ; penitent patients are admitted once, but in no instance a second time.
RoTAL Fbee Hospital, Gray's-inn-road, affording free and instant relief to the
destitute sick, was orig^inaUy founded 1828, in Greville-street, Hatton-garden : in
1832 700 cholera patients were admitted here, when other hospitals were closed against
them ; a demonstration of tha free principle which led to the removal of the Hospital,
in 1843, to the present premises, formerly the barracks of the Light-Horse Volun-
teers. The establishment of this HoKpital was prompted by its founder, Mr. Marsden,
a sorgeou, having seen in the winter of 1827 a wretched young woman lying on the
steps of St. Andrew's Churchyard, Holborn-hlll, after midnight, perishing through dis-
ease and famine : she was a stranger in London, without a friend, and died two days
afterwards unrecognised ! The " Sussex Ward*' was built as a memorial of the Duke
of Sussex, of whom here is a portrait-statue in a niche in the front.
At the Hospital-gate, in Gray's-iun-road, is a subscription-box, wherein have been found the following
donations bv stealth : Dec. 27, 1843, a bank-note for 1002., labelled "A Passer-by ;" Jane 14, 1844, lOOL,
■* Another Paaser-by ;" Nov. 2, 1844, 1002., with *' Winter is coming <m—Su dot qui eUo dot ;'* Oct. %
1850, GOL ; Juno 21, 1851, 202. ; and frequently bank-notes of lOZ. and 5/.
HoTAii Matebnity Chabity (Office, 17, Little Knlghtrider-street^ Doctors' Com-
mons) provides advice and good nurses for delivering poor married women at their
ovm homes in Eastern London; and the cases annually average nearly 3500.
This institution was originally founded as " the Lying-in Charity," in 1768. The Prince of Wales,
when but five years old, being nominated president, a donation of 600{. was made in his name ; thence-
forth he contributed annuallv 20^ Qeo^e IV. became president in 1818; and Crom the time of his
Begency to his death, contributed to the Hospital Axnd VSOMl.
SuALL-POX Aim Vaccination Hospital, instituted 1746, for those attacked with
natural small-pox, and for preventing it hy vaccination, was first opened at Battle
Bridge, St. Pancras, 1767 ; hut this Hospital and site being required for the terminus
of the Great Northern Railway Company, the Hospital was rebuilt in a healthy and
picturesque situation at the foot of Highg^te-hill, at a cost of 20,000^, paid out of the
Bailway Company's compensation.
TJNIYEB8ITT CoLLBGB HosFiTAi^ Upper Gower-street^ was founded 1833, under the
presidency of Lord Brougham, in connexion with Univernty College, which the Hospital
building faces : it is attended by the medical officers and students of the College.
Westhinbtxb Hospital originated from an infirmary ** for relieving the sick and
HOTELS. 441
needy," and is the oldest subscription hospital in the metropolis. It was first
established in Petty France, next in Chapel-street» then in James-street ; and the pre-
sent noble Hospital was built in the Broad Sanctuary, opposite Westminster Abbey,
upon a piece of ground purchased of the Oovemment for 60002., originally part of the
site of the ancient Sanctuary cruciform church, and subsequently of Westminster
Market. The Hospital foundation is six feet depth of concrete ; the design, by the
Inwoods, is Elizabethan, with windows ietnp, Henry VII. ; the central and end oriels^
and the embattled porch, are fine; the whole frontage is 200 feet, and the windows
number two hundred and sixty; the roof, nearly half an acre, ib an airing-walk for
the patients. The building is embattled throughout ; the materials are white Sufiblk
bricks^ with stone finishings; and among the enrichments are bosses of the West-
minster portcullis arms.
The Medical Students of the Tsrioas Hoepitale have long been noted for their irregrolsrities : and in
2861, Mr. Henrf, a Bow-ctreet masistrate, described them as " the most disorderly class with whom the
police and magistrates have to deal." To this unqoalifled stifoia has however been opposed the assertion,
that ** almost ereir idle dissolute yoong man, who in a fit of drunken foUj is guilty of some crime, will, if
he wears a deoent garb, arrogate to himself a respectabUi^ to which he has no right, by claiming the
title of a Medical Sludent" Mr. Albert Smith, himself a ''^Middlesex man," was thefl^ to sketch the
If edical Student's life in London."— (S«e Punek, toI iL)
DisPBirgASiBS were first established in 1770, when the Eotfol Dispetuary was
founded in Shaftesbury House, Aldersgate-street. There are now upwards of forty
Dispensaries in the metropolis.
" Medicfaie and erery other relief under the calamity of bodily diseases, no less than the daily neces-
saries of life, are natural provisions which God has made for our present indigent state, and wnich He
has granted in common to the children of men, whether th^ be rich or poor : to the ridi by inheritance
and acquisition ; and by their hands, to the disabled poor, rfor can there be any doubt that Public Dia-
pensaries are the most eilbctual means of administering sick relief."— iK«k>p Butler,
HOTELS,
THERE is no capital in Europe, always saving Constantinople, which, until recently,
was not better provided with good average comfortable upper and middle-class
Hotels, than London. A few private houses knocked somehow into one have been
thought a large and grand hotel, for it is only within the last few years that the
obvious necessity which existed for constructing a building specially for Hotel purposes has
been slowly recognised in this country. This new class of Hotels originated with the g^reat
Bailway Companies.
Thus, we have the Eubtov, ac|joining the terminus of the North- Western Bailway;
but this edifice is not remarkable for its architectural embellishment.
The Gbeat-Webtbbn Hotel, adjoining the Great- Western Railway Terminus, at
Faddington, is of more ornate character ; it was designed in 1852, P. Hardwick, R.A.y
architect, in the style of Louis XIV^ or later ; the curved-roof forms were then a
striking novelty ; four colossal termini, finely modelled, support the central balcony,
and over them are casts of the Warwid^ vase ; and in the pediment above is a group of
Britannia, surrounded by personations of the six parts of the world, and of their arts
and commerce. The exterior is of stucco; and the ornaments and projections are in rich
and bold style, the figures by Thomas. The number of bed, dressing, and sittmg-
rooms, about 150; the passages and staircases are fire-proof. The chief cofiee-room,
and the saloon above it, are magnificent.
The Gbeat Nobtrebn, acljmning the terminus of the Great Northern Railway,
King's Cross, has, architecturally, little to daim notioe.
The Palace Hotel, Buckingham-gate, Murray, architect, is a standard model of
what the highest class of Family Hotel should be. Outside it is only a handsome
range of buildings; inside it has costly and luxurious suites of rooms. The ventilation
IS perfectly arranged, and, though there is a constant current of air through all the
building from basement to roof, the Hotel is always kept at a mild and equal tempera*
lure by hot-air pipes along each corridor, and l^ing into every apartment. Lifts
oommnnicate with each fioor, so as to render every story complete in itself, with its
servioe-room and heating apparatus, for serving dinners on the various landings. The
entire structure is as perfectly fire-proof as the use of stone and brick along all the
▼arioDS stairways and corridors can make it.
442 CURIOSITIES OF LONDON.
Thb Wbstvikstbr Palaox Hotel, fiuang the Abbey, has one of the best ritoatioos
in London, and is a very good example of French Benaisaanoe architecture. It
realizes the expectations even of the laxnrionsof the oommerctal classes. One-balf of
the hot6l is let to the India Board, else this building alone would contain three
hundred rooms. It has thirteen sitting-rooms, gentlemen's and ladies' ooffee-rooins
(the latter an exceedingly fine apartment), several committee and dining>rooms, with
one hundred and thirty bedrooms, besides servants' apartments.
Thb Lovdok Biudoe Hotel, Curry, architect, exactly adjoins the terminus on the
nde of the Brighton and South Coast Railway. As a bi^^^ng, it is inferior only to
the Grosvenor in size and external appearance. It contains, in all, about two hundred
and fifty rooms. There is an exceedingly magnificent coffee-room, with a smaller one,
decorated in the same style, for the nse of ladies only. There are spacious bed and
dressing-rooms, with suites of apartments for fiimilies ; reading, billiard, and smoking-
rooms. This is the only Hotel of the new class which has a biUiard-room. Like the
other Hotels, the London Bridge is fire*proof, and is farther provided with a powerful
water supply, and fire-mains, with hoses, on each floor. An air-shaft pesmng np the
boilding gives the most perfect ventilation to every floor, of which there are seven.
The exterior has a heavy cornice, and terminates in a Man«tfd roof.
The Qbostxkob Hotel, Victoria Station, Hmlico, J. T. Knowles, architect, is of vast
extent — 262 feet long, 75 deep, and 150 high to the top of the roof. The exterior is
elaborately decorated. The spandrels on tiie first floor are in Portland stone, and
represent her Migesty the Queen, the Prince Consort, Humboldt, Lord Palmerston,
Lord Derby, Lord John Bussell, and others. At the side facades are representations
of the four quarters of the globe ; and colossal festoons of flowers a;re suspended be-
tween the ground- floor windows. The enriched string, the trusses, and the leafage,
are of Portland cement, coloured while " green/' to match the stone ; the carving by
Dayman. On the g^und-floor are a spacious hall, enriched with scagUola columns,
and reaching to the second-floor corridor ; dining, drawing, and sitting-rooms — ^the
principal coffee-room, 69 feet by 86, and 18 in height ; a smoking-room, &c. The first
and second floors are chiefly suites of rooms for fiimilies ; the upper rooms are bed-
rooms, the top story for servai^ts only. On the flrst floor is a wide gallery entirely
round the central hall. The whole building contains upwards of 300 rooms, many
superb suites, including suites for wedding-breakfasts. The smoking-room, with iU
light, handsome columns, its groined arch roof, and Anple windows, looks into the
Station. The principal staircase is one of the finest features in the bulling : after
the first floor the stairs diverge right and left ; 1500 feet of stone corridors traverse
the centre of the building on its various floors from end to end. There is one staircase
for servants in the northern end of the building; the corresponding space in the
southern wing being occupied by a lift, the cage of which is 8 feet square. This is
worked by a very simple hydraulic apparatus, Easton and Amos, engineers, and passes
up a shaft along the various floors of the building ftom top to bottom ; it is equal to
raising ten persons at one time. There are bath-rooms in all the landings, with ser-
vices of hot and cold water and speaking-tubes to every floor. The cost of this splendid
building is stated at considerably more than 100,000^.
The Laitghaic Hotei^ Portland* place, Giles and Hurray, architects, is a sumptuous
pile, and contains forty drawing and private sitting-rooms, and 300 bedrooms. The
AGBicnxTiTBAL HoTEL, Salisbury -Square, Giles, architect, is of much less architectural
pretension. The Inns or Coubt Hotel, Lockwood and Mawson, architects, has an
Italian front, with polished granite and serpentine shafts, in Holbom ; the original
design includes a large central covered courts and a front in Lincoln's-inn-fields.
The Cuaeing Cross Hotel Ain> Railway Station is in the Italian styles ordet
Corinthian, E. M. Barry, architect. The principal entrances have polished granite
columns, and carving above, and the chimney-stocks have red terra-cotta shafts. The
railway offices are in the basement. The suites of apartments are superb ; there are
250 bedrooms ; the building extends nearly as iar down Villiers-street as along the
Strand. In the court-yard is a reproduction of the Eleanor Cross, at Charing Cross.
EOUNDSDITCH. 44S
The Citt Tebhotus Hotbl, Cannon-street, is by the architect of the Charing Cross
Hotel. Both buildings have pavilions at the ends of the principal fronts with high
truncated roofis, ornamented in anc; they have each a Hansard roof to the portion
between these wings, and chimneys Imving small columns at their ends ; in each case
there are enclosed porches to the wings, and a pent-roof for the whole length between ;
in each there are balconies with flower-vases on the pedestals, and with the supporting
cantilevers of the same character of profile.
The City Terminus Hotel has provinon for public meetings and banquets, a noble
coffee-room, a great hall for public dinners and baUs, and a large meeting-room ; and
it has a restaurant, as well as a chop-room and a luncheon-bar, besides the refresh-
ment-bar and the <Uning-room immediately attached to the station. Including the
ground-story, chiefly appropriated to the railway booking-offices, there are four ordinary
stories in the principal front of the building, above ground, and two stories in the
roof. In the Charing Cross Hotel there are five stories of ordinary windows, including
a mezzanine : whilst each pavilion has an additional story ; and there are two ranges
of dormers in the centre-portion of the front, and three ranges of dormers and lucames
in the pavilions. The frontage of the Cannon-street building is about 213 ft. in length :
that of the Charing Cross Hotd is 227 ft. — the nuUng in the Strand being IX ft.
longer. The Cannon-street front comprises eleven bays; the porches project 14 ft.
The height of the msdn portion of the building, comprising the four orcUnary stories;
is 76 ft. 3 in., to the top of the cornice. Above this, to the highest part of
the main roof is about 23 ft., and to the highest part of the pavilion-roofii
32 ft. A tower at the south-east angle, containing a ventilating-shait and the
kitchen-flue, rises higher; whilst the highest points of all are reached by the gilded
metal- work finials of the spire-cappings of the two turrets, which are g^uped with
the pavilions in the principal front. Much of the space in the building being
devoted to rooms for dinners and meetings, there are few bedrooms in proportion to
the size of the structure, or as compared with the provinon in the Charing Cross-
Hotel. There appear to be dghty-four bed and dressing-rooms. Amongst the lead-
ing features of the Cannon-street exterior are the spire-capped turrets and the con-
tinuous balconies. The pilasters on the piers between the windows of the first-floor,
are enriched somewhat in the manner of the Renaissance. The pedestals of the crown-
ing balustrade have rusticated obelisk-formed terminals, of Elizabethan character,
in terra cotta ; each one having a small gilt ball at the top. The dormer windows have
two arch-headed lights, with pilasters and trusses, carrying a pediment whose tympanum
is enriched. In the upper part of the pavilion-roofs there are lucame-lights. The
roof^ are ornamented at the angles, and at the edges round the flat top of eadi pavilion,
by very bold ornament in stamped zinc, executed, like that of the other Hotel, by
French workmen. Each turret terminates in a belvidere-story, open, above the cor-
nice ; and with a domical covering, ending in a spire. The fi^nt of the Hotel looking^
into the station has three lofty and bold arches, having coffers in the soffits enriched
with rosettes. The Hotel building is stated to have cost about 100,000/.
ffOUNDSDITCS:
EXTENDS from opposite St. Botolph's Church, Bishopsgate-street, to St. Botolph'i^
Aldgate. Beaumont and Fleteher call it Dogsditch.
" From Aldgate north-west to Buhopsgato lieth the ditch of the City called Hoondsditch, for that
in old time, when the sune lay open,mach filth (oonveyed from the Citj), especially dead dogs, were
there laid or cast"— 5Vow.
Into tliis filthy dlteh, by command of King Canate, was thrown Edle, the Saxon, the mnrderer of his
roaster. Edmund Ironside, after having been drawn by his heels from Baynard's Castle, and tormented
to death by bnrning torches. The cUtch was subeeqnently enclosed with a mod wall, against which was
a " fiiir fieU," with cottages for poor bed-rid people, and where devout people walked (espedaUv on Fri-
days) to relieve the bed-ridden, who lay on the ground-floor, at the window, with a clean unen doth, and
a pair of beads* to show to charitable passengers that ** there lay a bed-rid body, unable but to pray only.**
Houndsditoh was first paved 1503. Late in the reign of Henry VIII. a foundiy
for casting brass ordnance was established here, wbJch drove the poor bed-rid
people out of tbeur ootteges; and upon their site were built houses and shops for
" brokers, joyners, braziers, and such as deal in old clothes, linen, and upholstery."
[Strype.) Braziers abound here to the present day. Here lived Tench, the joiner, to
444 CURIOSITIES OF LONDON.
whom it was sworn on the trial of Hugh Peters, 1660, that his orders were giren on
the scaffold to prepare the block for the beheading of Charles I. ; and in Bosemary*
lane lived Ralph Jones, the ragfman, who assisted Brandon, the common hangmsn, in
the execution. Anthony Munday speaks indignantly of the unconsdonable brckking
usurers, a base kind of yermin, who had crept into Houndsditch ; which, with Long-
lane, were the Rag Fairs of two centuries since ; and Houndsditch is to this day the
centre of the Jews' quarter.
Houndsditch was dso the general name of the different parts of the City ditch. In i
chartulary of St. Qiles's Hospital, beginning of fifteenth century, Houndetdie and
HoundekUeh are part of the ditch in the parish of St. Sepulchre. Howell's Londimt-
polis shows, by the same name, parts of the fosse between Ludgate and Newgate;
and by Barbican.
SOUSES OF OLD LONDON.
ANTERIOR to the reign of Stephen, Houses in London were built much as tbey
had been in the earlier Saxon times, almost wholly of wood, roofed with straw and
reeds : thus a carpenter is described as ** making houses and bowls." Hence the
frequent fires ; and especially the great conflagration of 1097, which spread from
London Bridge to the church of St. Clement Danes, in the Strand. By an assize (1st
year of Richard I.) all houses in London were hereafter to be built of stone, with
party>walls of the same : but this mandate was rarely complied with ; and it was not
mtil the reign of Edward IV., when brick was made from the day of Moorfielda,thAC
it occanonally took the place of the timber which had hitherto been used for houses ;
reeds were then replaced by tiles and slates. In two centuries, to gfun ground, many
stone houses were taken down, and others of timber built in their place; and it is dis-
tinctly stated that London, to the period of the Great Fire 1666, was chiefly built of
chestnut, filled up with plaster. After the Qreat Fire, the houses were rebuilt with
brick ; but between 1618 and 1636 several fine brick houses were erected in Alders-
gate-street, Qreat Queen-street, Linooln's-inn-fields, and Covent Garden. Stall, the
general form of roof was the high-pitched gable, whole rows of which have ^Usappeaxed
in our time, with several spedmens of florid plaster and carved wood fronts. Very few
spedmens, however, remain.*
AldersffcUe-Ureet has several house-fronts with remains of rixteenth and seventeenth
century carving and other ornaments. (See also p. 449.)
Aldgate ffUfh^treet, No. 76, with central bay-windows, enriched brackets, and a
projecting penthouse-shop, has panels decorated with the Prince of Wales' feathers, the
fleur-de-lis of France, the Thistle of Scotland, portcullis of Westminster, Ac
Ashbumham Howe, Little Dean's-yard, and Cloisters, Westminster Abbey, was origi*
sally built by Inigo Jones, on chapter land, for the Ashbumham fiunUy ; it was purchased
by the Crown of John Earl of Ashbumham, in 1780. Here the Cotton Library of
MSS. was deposited. On October 23, 1731, a fire broke out here, when of the 948
volumes, 114 were lost or spoiled, and 98 much damaged. All that remains in the
western portion of the house, are an exquisitely proportioned drawing-room; the
dining-room, once a state bed-room, with a graceful alcove ; and a staircase, one of the
finest of Inigo Jones's interior works. Sir John Soane had careful drawings made of
the house. In the cellars, it is said, were some remains of the conventual buildings;
and a capital of the time of King Edward the Confbssor, which was built into the
modem walL
Bagnio, the^ in Bath-street, Newgate-street, was built by Turkey merchants, and
first opened in 1679 (Aubrey), for sweating, rubbing, shaving, hot-bathing, and cnp*
ping, after the Turkidi modd. The cupola-roof and walls neatly set with Dutch tile^
described by Hatton in 1708, exist to this day : it is now a cold bath.
* The remains of Boman London consist chiefly of portions of the City wall foundations of boild^
togs ; tesselated pavements, often of so much beauty as to denote a oorretponding style in the "^1^
stractare ; baths, sewers, bronzes, and vaiions ornaments admirable as works of ait. A ^''"l*^,"^
nearly complete stUl exists in Strand-lane ; and a Roman hypocaost is preserved beneath the Coal ^'
change {jtee p. 329). The remidns of the »uptnlnteture§ or iiomaa London which have yet been av
oorered, are, however, unimportant.
HOUSES OF OLD LONDON. 445
Bangor House, Shoe-lane, soath of St. Andrew's Cbnrch, is described as the palace
of the Bishops of Bangor in a roll of 48 Edward III. Being deserted as an episcopal
residence, some mean dwellings were built upon the grounds; yet a gfarden with lime*
trees* and a rookeiy, long remained. The last of the mansion^ octangolar and two-
storied, was remoYod in 1828 ; bat is kept in memory by "Bangor Hoose;" and by
BangOT-eonrt, opposite which are some remains of " Oldbome Hall," in StoVs time
** letten oat in divers tenements."
Hammes, or Salmes (from two Spanish merchants so named), stood west of the
Kingaland-road, Hozton, and was taken down in 1852. It was bailt by the Balmeses^
aboat 1440; Sir George Whitmore resided here occasionally when lord mayor, 1681 1
and on this spot Sir W. Acton, lord mayor, with the aldermen, &c, waited the arriyal
of Charles I. on lus retom from Scotland, Nov. 25, 1641 ; when the royal coaches were
coodacted, by a road formed for the occasion, through Balmes's £proands to Hoxton,
and thence to Moorgate, into the City, tlie road between Eingsland and Shoreditch
being then impassable hj " the depth and foulness of it." Baumes-marcfa was long a
fkTonrite archery and artillery exerdse;* bat the ground attached to the house is now
the site of De Beauvoir Town, named from the De Beaavoir fiunily, its owners since
1696. A print of 1580 shows Baumes, with its gate-house, fkrmeiy, spacious gardens
and grounds, avenues of fruit-trees and stately elms; and the Italianized brick mansion
with its two-storied roof, moated and approached by a drawbridge ; the house and moat
were supplied from the ancient well in Canonbuiy Field. The interior of Balmes was
rich 2n carved ceilings, panelling and staircase, armorial glass and tapestry.
BrooVs Menagerie (subsequently Herring's), an old wooden house at the western
comer of Brook-street, New-road, was standing when Tottenhall Fair was in its glory ;
and almost the only house between St. Giles's Potmd and Primrose-hill was Tottenhidl,
a house of entertunment in 1645, on the site of which is the " Adam and Eve tavern."
Bulk Shops have only disappeared in our time. In 1846 was taken down an old
house south-west of Temple Bar, which is engraved in Archer's Veeiigea, part i. A
view in 1795, in the Crovole Pennant, presents one tall gable to the street ; but the
pitch of the roof had been diminished by adding two imperfect side gables. The heavy
penta originally traversed over each of the threia courses of windows ; it was a mere
timber frame filled up with lath and plaster, the beams being of deal with short oak
joints : it presented a capital example of the old London bulk-shop (sixteenth century),
with a heavy canopy projecting over the pathway, and turned up at the rim to carry
off the rain endwise. This shop had long been held by a succession of fishmongers,
among whom was the noted Crockfbrd, who quitted it for *' play" in St. James's {tee
CxuB-HOUBES, pp. 246, 247). Crockford would not permit this house-front to be altered
in his lifetime.
Burners {Bishop) House, St. John's-square, Clerkenwell, is now let in tenementc^
and has an arched thoroughfiire to a court of houses built on the site of the gfarden.
In tins house Burnet died 1715, and was buried in St. James's Church, when the
rabble threw dirt and stones at his funeral procession. The Bishop's house and tomb
are engraved from original drawings in the Mirror, 1837, No. 836.
Campden House, Kensington, originally approached from the town by an avenue of
elms, was built about 1612 by Sir Baptist Hicks, afterwards YiBcount Campden, who
purchased the property of Sir Walter Cope ; or, traditionally, won it of him " at some
sort of game." The house was of red brick, with stone finishings, and had a centre
porch, bay-window once fitted with armorial glass, and fianking turrets with cupolas.
The great dining-room, in which Charles II. supped with Lord Campden, had a rich
armorial ceiling in stucco, floridly carved wainscot, and a tabernacle mantelpiece, with
Corinthian columns and caryatidal figures, finely sculptured. The State apartments on
the first fioor included Queen Anne's bedchamber ; and the Gbbe room, originally a
chapel, and communicating with the garden terrace : the other rooms had richly stuc-
coed oalings and marble mantelpieces. During the Protectorate, the Sequestration
* The Bobin Hood pabUo-booie (now reflronted) originAlIr looked over FiMtnuT-flelds, and was
much fk^nented by the metropolitan orchen ; the tign, Uobln Hood and Little John, in Linooln-gprcen,
formerly vnraut from a tree before the door. A few dealers in archery implements, and preserrera n
snimalfl, hare Uogered in the City-road to oar day— the last relics <tf the chiT^ry of Hogsden, l^buxy,
aod Moorflelds.
446 cumosirms of London.
Committee aat here. Qaeen Amie, when PrinoeiB of Bemxiark, resided five jemn at
Campden Honse, with her eon the Doke of Glooeerter, who kept a regiment of boy-
■oldiers here, and had a poppet-theatre hnilt. Lord Lechmere, the kwyer and atannch
Whig, lived here when he had his qoarrel with Sir John Guise, ridionled in Swill's
liallad of ^ Duke upon Dnke :"
"Biek in the dark, by Broinptoii Pttk,
He tnni'd ap tiuro' the Cfbre,
And ilonk to Guopden-hooBO m high.
All in hii ooach and four.
The Duke In wnth odledfbr bis iteeds^
And fleroelr drove them m:
Lord I Lord I how rattled then thy etone^
O kingly Kensington 1**
Swift had lodged at Kensington, and well knew the locality. The gardens, in which
the wild olive and the caper-tree once floorished, had been much reduced; but the
honae retuned its original front. In the spring of 1862, by a conflagration of remarkable
rapidity, Campden House was reduced to blackened and windowless walls : it has been
rebuilt in the same style. The historic interest of the place had ceased some sixty years
before. Among the relics are two dog^ (supporters of the Campden arms), which for-
merly surmounted the gateway-piers, and are cleverly sculptured. Westward is LUUe
Campden House, built during the Princess Anne's residence at Campden House : it has
an outer arcaded gallery ; and was once occupied by the Bight Hon. William Pitt.
Canonbwry FUice, Islington, was originally the country-house of the Prion of St.
Bartholomew. {See Cakokbitbt Towsb, p. 78.)
" Canonborr House internally is one of the richest specdmens of the arohiteotore of James I. in Uie
ndghbonrhooa of London. The boose, or rather the remains, form at the present time several larjre
dwelling^honses: indo^ng a portion of the old great chamber, with a rich ceiling, date 1699, a aoaintlj
oarved oak flreplaoe, with statoettes of Mars and Venas draped, and a doorway with bast of an old
Ibiglish gentieman and dame^ the Boman mouldings and enriched ftiese very fine; several other rooms
are sumptuously carved, and the parlour retains its original decoraUon."^C J*. JZMa&orifoa, FJS.A,
Carlisle Souse, Carlisle-street, Soho-sqnare, formerly the manson of the Dowager
l4idy Carlisle, was built temp. James II. : it has a marble-floored hall and grand deco-
rated staircase; the rooms are large and lofty, and have enriched cdlings. The
mansion originally stood in the midst of a garden, a portion of which remains in the
rear ; the ** cherry-garden" is built upon. The lower walls of Carlisle House are of
old English bond, of brilliant red bride ; the leadwork of the dstem is dated 1669, the
year of the creation of the Earldom of Carlisle. The manmon was long tenanted by
Angelo, the fendng-master ; also by W. Gibbs Rogers, the carver : and in the ball-
room tiie College of the Freemasons of the Church held their monthly meetings.
*' Caaton's Souse"- Westminster, and other old houses in the Almoniy, are described
at p. 6. The identification of the old Printer's house is very doubtfuL
Crosby Sail, Bisbopsgate-street, the finest spedmen of olden domestic architecture
in the metropolis, is described at p. 297.
Drury-lane has the Cock and Magpie, a low pubUc-house of the seventeenth oentur}',
with a panelled house next door, and a range of tenements in Drury-court of the
same date. These were then the only houses in the eastern part of Drury-Iane,
except the mansion of the Drurys. Hither the youths and maidens who on May-day
danced round the May-pole in tbe Strand, were accustomed to resort for cakes and
ale : Pope has named it the scene of *' tbe high heroic games devised by dolness to
gladden her sons." The old public-house is now otherwise occupied.
" Dyoifs Souse,** Dyott-street, now Qeorge-street, St. Giles's, was the mansion of
Bichard Dyott, Esq., a vestryman of St. Giles's parish temp. Charles II., and was in-
habited till our time by his descendant, Philip Dyott, Esq.
SUzahelka% Souses. Among the earliest examples of the Elizabethan period was a
house in Grub-street, engraved in Smith's Antiquities, in which the mouldings, quatre-
foil, and other Gothic ornaments, were combined with the Italianized paneL and
brackets of a later date. Malcolm . in his Anecdotes, has engraved two Elizabethan
houses in Goswell-road, built about 1550, and standing in 1807; with bay-windows,
over-hanging upper story, and gable : next door, for contrast, is a house built about
1800^ three floors of the former being scarcely equal to two of tbe latter.
HOUSES OF OLD LONDON. 447
" The roofr foeilioffs) of your hooMs are so low, that I presnme yoar ancestors were yery maxmerly,
and stood tare to their wirast for I cannot diacem how they coold wear their high-crowned hata."— iSir
WUliam IXntnaui.
FawUf't Souse, IslingtoD, fronts Croes-street : a ogling bean the date 1695 : at the
extremity of the garden is a lodge, probably bnilt as a summer-house by Sir Thomas
Fowler the younger^ whose arms and the date 1655 are in the wall. Sir Thomas
Powler the elder, who died 1624, was a juryman on Sir Walter Baleigh's triaL
.FKlioootPs EenU, Holbom, has a house temp, James I. (See p. 863.)
Oren/'s-Inn-lane, east side, north end, has three Elizabethan houses, originally one,
and probably a hostelry on the road to Theobalds: its three stories project over each
other upward, the top one being of weather-board plastered inside, and the roof
having four pointed gables : at the ends of the first and second stories are caryed
hrackets, one dated 1559.
Grui'Hreet In Sweedon's passage, Qmb-street, was an ancient timber-built house,
traditionally the residence of Sir Bichard Whittington, temp, Heniy IV. ; and of Sir
Thomas Ghresham, temp, Elizabeth. The massive timbers were oak and chestnut, the
gromid-floor chimneys being of stone : it had a boldly projecting staircase, which, with
the house, was taken down in 1805, and three small houses were built upon its site,
one inscribed " Gresham House, once the residence of Sir Bichard Whittington, Lord
Mayor 1406, rebmlt 1805." (See Smith's Ancient Topograph^,)
Solbom, In the volume of MS. drawings by John Thorpe, preserved in Sir John
Soane's Museum, is a sketch of a wooden house described as standing in Thorpe's time
at the " water end of Holbom."
** From the garden yon ascend by five steps the enclosed terrace in front of the building: this has,
as Thorpe expresses it, a ' terrace overhead :* a small porch leads into tiie great hall. The kitchen is
on the right ; the larder is the small sqaare room leading ont of it. The small room in front on the
side as tlie kitchen, is the bntterr, with cellar under, the small steps conducting down to it^
Above the hall is ' the great chamber/ tne staircase leading to which opens mto a gallery communicat-
ing to the rooms of the rest of the bnildtaig. The square compartments at the bade of the houses
represented in plan as staircase and larder, are carried up above the roof as turrets; a small prospect
tower is plaoed in fhmt of the building."— C. J. JUekanUon, F,8^,
Holland Souse, Kensington, is described at pp. 481-433.
Soxton. A few years since there stood in Hozton Old Town the reputed " oldest
house in the metropolis," in taking down which was found a brick dated above 150 years
hack ; but most of the bricks were of a much earlier period, being deep-red and highly
glazed : the door was beautifully carved with the oak and vine^ &c The Parliamen-
tary Survey, No. 78, as reported in Sir H. Ellis's History of Shorediteh, of which
Hoxton is one of the divisions, states that about this spot, during the Interregnum, a
house was in the possession of Charles Stuart, some time King of Eogland, in 1658^
which was valued at 4Z. per annum.
Kenninffton Manor-house, a portion of the royal lodg^ing built of brick upon part of
the site of the old palace near Kennington-cross, exists to this day. Its last royal
tenant was Charles I., when Prince of Wales, Kennington having been an occasional
residence of the Kings of England prior to the Conquest. The manor vras annexed to
the Duchy of Cornwall, temp. Edward IIL, and was tenanted by the Black Prince.
John of Gaunt took refuge here in 1377 from the exasperated Londoners. Henry VII.
and Katberine of Arragon resided here ; and James I. settled the manor on Henry
Prince of Wales, his eldest son ; and upon his decease, 1612, on Prince Charles, after-
wards Charles I. The stables of the earlier palace, bnilt of flint and stone, and known
as the Lonff Bam, remained till 1796 ; and fragments of flint, chalk, and rubble-stone
walls of the ancient palaces are traceable in houses in Park-place.
Kensington House, nearly opposite the palace-gates, was the residence of the Duchess
of Portsmouth, the French mistress of Charles II. Here Elphinstone, the fnend of
Jortin, Franklin, and Johnson, kept a school from 1776 till 1788 : he is unsparingly
ridiculed in Smollett's Roderick Random, The mansion was next a Roman Catholic
boarding-house, where Mrs. Inchbald, the player and novelist, died in 1821. Colhy
House, facing the Palace-road gates, was bnilt about 1720, for Sir Thomas Colby : it
has a painted grand staircase with Herculaneum ceiling, and a small chapel. Kensing*
ton National Schools, a stately pile of brickwork, west of the church, were built by Sir
John Vanbrugh, who " is singularly fortunate in this dengn, his lines presenting a
448 CURIOSITIES OF LONDON.
■trained degree of civil architectare, in the middle class of aprigbts" (Joh» Carter).
Here are oostomed fi^nxree of a charity boy and girl of the last century.
Sale Satue, Earrs-conrt, traditionally the residence of Oliver Cromwell, long re-
mained dilapidated and desolate; but retuned a few seventeenth-centary decoratio&s.
Near the West London Cemetery is CoUheme House, temp, Charles I., the property of
Sir William Lister; next of Gen. Lambert, the first President of Cromwell*s Coundl;
and in 1820, of the widow of Major-Gen. Sir W. Ponsonby, who fell at Waterloo.
Lindeey Hauee, CheUea, west of the old church, was built by Bertie, Earl of Lindsej,
upon the site of the mansion of Sir Theodore Mayeme, physician to James I. and
Charles I. In 1761 Lindsey House was purchased by the United Brethren, or Moravians,
whose Bishop, Count Zinzendorf, died here in 1760 : in the rear of the boose is a
burial-ground for the Brethren, with a small chapel ; but their only place of worship
in London is the chapel in Fetter-lane {eee p. 220). Lindsey House is now five
residences : the central one was tenanted by Sir I. E. Brunei and Son» and Bramab,
the engineers ; and next inhabited by John Martin, the epic painter, who in a summer-
house in the garden executed a fine fresco.
Lindsey House, on the centre of the west side of Lincoln's-inn-fields, was built by
Inigo Jones for the above Bertie, Earl of Lindsey, and was for some time the residence
of the proud Duke of Somerset : it has a handsome stone fii^de, and bad formerly
vases upon the open balustrade. At the south-west angle of Linooln*s-inn-fields is
Portsmouth House, built in Inigo Jones's rich style for the Earl of Portsmouth, but
now let in chambers. It gives name to Portsmouth-street, where is the Black- Jack
public-house, frequented by Joe Miller, and long known as " the Jump," from Jack
Sbeppard's leaping from one of its first-floor windows, to escape his pursuers.
Little Moorflelds, No. 23, was formerly the King^s Arms public-house, with a plaster
front richly wrought with flowers, and a pair of large scrolls surmounted with the
Ionic volute. In London Wall was a house-front, temp, Charles I., enriched with
groups of foliage and figures, and engraved in Lester's Illustrations, 1818^
Long'lane, Smitkfield, has a few houses remaining of Elizabethan date ; and Cloth
Fair has relics of this and a later period.
Marylebone Manor-house, attached to the Boyal Park, was built temp. Henry YIII.,
and was a palace of Mary and Elizabeth. Here, about 1703, was established a school
of great repute ; the interior had a beautiful saloon and gallery, in which private con-
certs were given. The house, which stood at the top of High-street> nearly opposite
the old church, was taken down in 1791. South of the Manor-house site was Oxford
House, built especially for the Library and MSS. (Harleian) of the Earl of Oxford, now
in the British Museum.
Milhom*s Almshouses, Crutched Friars, were built of brick and timber, in 1535, by
Sir John Milbom, lord mayor in 1521, for thirteen aged poor men and their wives, of
the Drapers' Company. Over the Tudor gateway was sculptured in stone the Assump-
tion, the Virgin supported by six angels. The Almshouses were taken down in 1862.
Newcastle House, at the north-west angle of Linooln's-inn-fields> has beneath its
south wing an arcade over the southern footway of Great Queen-street. It was
originally Powis House, built for the Marquis of Powis, about 1686, by Captain Wil-
liam Winde, a scholar of Webbe, a pupil of Inigo Jones. It was bought by Holies;
Duke of Newcastle, and inherited by his nephew, who led the Pelham administration
under George II.
" Old City of London Workhouse,** Bishopsgate-street Without, the first workhouse
built in London, dates from 1680 : in the court-room is a portrait of Sir Robert Clay-
ton, the first governor. The house was originally partitioned into the steward's side,
for poor children ; and the keeper's side, for '* rogues and vagabonds."
Post-office, Lombard-street, formerly the General Post-office, was originally built by
** the great banquer," Sir Robert Viner, on the site of a noted tavern destroyed in the
Great Fire. Here Sir Robert kept his mayoralty in 1675. Strype describes it as a
very large and curious dwellings with a handsome paved court, and behind it *' a yaid
for stabling and coaches."
Queen-street, Lincoln's-inn-fields, has on the south side some early brick houses,
Imilt by Inigo Jones and his pupil Webbe; those on the south being diarg^ with the
HOUSES OF OLD LONDON, 449
fleor-de-ltg, in compliment to Queen Henrietta-Maria, daughter of Henry lY. of France,
after whom the street was named : it was said to have been designed for a square, and
boilt at the charge of the Jesuits on the site of the common path which anciently
separated Aldewych Close from the northern division of Aldewych, extending to
Holborn. The street wos originally entered from the west by *' the Devil's Gap," a
narrow passage ; altered 1765.
••'
' In the laat centnnr Qoeen-ttreet wu the residence of many people of rank. Among others was
Conway House, the residence of the noble fiunily of that name : Pamet House, belongingr to the Marqnls
of Winchester; and the honse in which Lord Herbert of CherSary finished his romantic career. The
trcnta of certain hooses, possibly of those of otiiers of the nobility, are distinguished by brick pilasters
and rich capitals."— Pewiiaiii.
Howel writes to Lord Herbert, 13th July, 1646 : "Ood send too joy of your new habitation, for I
understand your Lordship is removed from the J:<iij^*>8treet to tne Queen' »."^FoMiliar Letten,
Here lived Sir Thomas Fairfax, the Parliamentary general, when he took possession of
Holland House, Kensington. Also, Sir Godfrey Eneller ; Hudson, Sir Joshua Bey-
nolds's master ; and Sir Bobert Strange, the engraver. Lord Herbert's house is near
the east corner of Great Wild-street. Another of Howel's Familiar Letter* is addressed
*' To the R. H. the Earl Rivers, at his house in Queen-street."
** May 26th, 1671. The Earl of Bristol's House, in Queen-street Lincoln's-lnn-flelds, was taken tat
the Commisrioners of Trade and Plantations, and famished with rich hangings o^ the King's. It con-
sisted of seven rooms on a floor, with a long gallery, gardens, &c."'Eveljn's Dtary.
Schomberg ITouee, Pall Mall, Nos. 81 and 82, south side, was built about 1650, when
Fall Mall was planted with 140 elm-trees, " standing in a very regular and decent
manner on both sides of the walk ;" and the above house is described as " a fair mansion
enclosed with a garden." In 1660, at the Restoration, it was occupied by several Court
f.»voarites; and subsequently by Edward Griffin, Treasurer of the Chamber, and
ancestor of the present Lord Braybrooke. In 1670 Schomberg House and the ad-
joining mansions had gardens which extended to St. James's Park, and had earthen
mounds or terraces, from which was a view over the green walks to the Palace.
Next door, on the site of the present No. 79 (tenanted by the Society for the Propagation of the
Go^iicl in Foreign Farts), lived Nell Qwrn, after her removal fh>m a house at the east end of tlie north
Hide of Pali Mall. Evelyn records a wala made March 2, 1671, in which he attended Charles II. through
St. James's Park, where he both saw and heard ** a familiar discourse between the King and Mrs.
Nellie, as they called an impudent comedian, she looking out of her garden on a terrace at the top of the
wall, and the King standing on the crreen walk under it." Part of the terrace or mound on which
Nelly stood may still be seen under the park wall of Marlborough House; and among Mr. Robert Cole's
Nell Gwyn papers, now dispersed (bills sent to Nelly for pavment), there is a charge fbr this very
roonnd. (Cunningham's 8Ufr$ qf Nell Owyn, p. 118.) This scene has been adminihly painted by
£. M. Ward, RJL
Here lived the Duke of Schomberg, who was killed at the Battle of the Boyne, 1690,
and after whom the house is named. It was beautified for Frederick, third and last
Duke of Schomberg, for whom Peter Berchett painted the grand staircase with land-
scapes in lunettes. In 1699, the house had nigh been demolished by a mob of disbanded
soldiers ; and in the Gordon riots of 1780, attempts were made to sack and bum it.
'William, Duke of Cumberland, the hero of Culloden, took the house in 1760. John
Astley, the painter and "the Beau," who lived here many years, partitioned the man-
sion into threes and placed the bas-relief of Painting above the middle doorway. Astley
also built on the roof a large painting-room, his " country-house," looking over the Park,
to which and some other apartments he had a private staircase. After Astley's death,
Cosway the portrait-punter tenanted the centre. Oiunsborough occupied the west
wing from 1777 to 1788, when he died in a second-floor room : he sent for Sir Joshua
Reynolds, and was reconciled to him ; and then exclaiming, " We are all going to
heaven, and Vandyke is of the company," he immediately expired. Part of the house
was subsequently occupied by Robert Bowyer for his "Historic Gallery;" and by
Dr. Graham, the empiric, for his " Celestial Bed" and other impostures, advertised by
two gigantic porters stationed at the entrance, in gold-laced cocked hats and liveries.
The house was a good specimen of the red-brick seventeenth-century mansion. It was
partly occupied by Payne and Foss, with their valuable stock of old books» until 1850.
The eastern wing of the old mansion has been taken down, and rebuilt in Italian style,
but incongruously, for the War Department.
Shajleebury JSbuee, originally Thanet House, on the east side of Aldersgate-street,
was built by Inigo Jones for the Tuftons, Earls of Thanet ; whence it passed into the
450 0UBI08ITIE8 OF LOIWOK
family of Anthooy Ashley Cooper, Earl of Shaftesbury. In 1708 it returned to the
Thanet fiimily ; in 1720, became an inn ; in 1734, a tavern ; 1750, a Lying-in-Hos-
pital : and in 1849, a IMspensary. The facade is of red brick, decorated with egfat
pilasters, but painted stone colour. Nearly opposite was London Souse, originally
Peter House, of handsome brick : it was the town-mansion of the Bishop of London
after the Great Fire of 1666.
Southwark retiuned in High-street some of its olden honse-fironts, almost to the re-
building of London Bridge. In 1830 were removed two houses with enriched pilaster
decoration and armorial ensigns of the nxteenth century ; and the writer witnessed
about 1809, the demolition of a long range of wood and plaster and gable-fronted
houses on the west side of High-street.
" I%e Spanish Ambassador's Mouse" eastward of Houndsditch, in Qrayel-lane, was
taken down in 1844. This was one of the " garden-houses," which Stow describes as
built amidst *' fair hedgerows of elm-trees, with bridges and easie stiles to pass over
into the pleasant fields." More than a century later Strype adds : " There was a house
on the west side, a good way in the lane, which, when I was a boy, was commonly
called The Spanish Ambassador's ffouse,-vho, in^^King James's reign, dwelt here; and
he, I think, was the famous Count Qondomar." The house was built temp. James I,
in a courtyard, with a fine gateway, upon a flight of steps, approached by " Seven-Step
Alley :" it had three stories, with pilasters between the windows, the lower rooms were
oak-panelled, and had richly-carved fireplaces and stucco ceilings ; and on the first floor
was a large chamber, with an elaborately -traceried ceiling in Italian taste, charged with
Latin mottoes, and the arms of the founder, Robert Shaw, and those of the Vintners'
Company, of which he was master : here, too, was a superb fireplace, of coloured
marbles and carved oak (see Archer's Vestiges, part v.).
Staple Inn, Holbom, has three overhanging stories, the upper one with four pointed
gables ; the ground-floor has modem shop-fronts, but the central arched entrance to
the Inn has the original term pilasters of the Jacobean style.
Star Chamber' and Exchequer -buildings, the, stood on the eastern side of New
Falaoe-yard ; and adjoining northward was an arched gateway (Henry III.), communi-
cating by stairs with the Thames. These buildings, bay-windowed and gabled, were
taken down between 1807 and 1836; the last remaining were the oflSces for trials of
the Fix, and printing Exchequer bills. In an apartment here the Court of Star
Chamber snt from temp, Elizabeth until its abolition, 1641 : over the doorway was the
date 1602, E. R. and an open rose on a star. It had a richly-carved Tudor-Gothic
oak ceiling, with moulded compartments, roses, pomegranates, portcullises, and flears-
de-lis ; and it had been guilt and coloured, though it had not a trace of gilt stars. The
mantelpiece was decorated with fluted columns, and the chimney-opening was a Tudor
arch. Drawings of the whole were made in 1836. Behind the Elizabethan panelling
were found three Tudor-arched doorways, and under the staircase a Gothic wood-hole
entrance, its spandrels ornamented with roses ; proving this to have been the original
Camera Stellata, newly fitted temp, Elizabeth. The panelling of the Chamber has been
removed to a room at Leasowe Castle, Shropshire, the seat of the Hon. Sir Edward
Cnst I here, too, is " the Dosel, a screen of ornamental woodwork, at the back of the
chair of state." — Sir Bernard Burke's Visitation of Seats and Arms, vol. ii. p. 126, 1853.
St, Mary Axe,-^A four-storied Tudor house, opposite the church of St. Andrew's
Undcrshaft, was taken down in 1864 : it had three overhanging floors, the front was
entirely of wood and plaster, not unpicturesque ; and it had some finely-imnelled oak
opartments. Nearly opponte this house was erected on ^ay morning "the great
Shaft of Cornhill," as the street was then called.
The Strand retains a few old house-fronts: as west of the Adelphi Theatre; and
immediately east of Strand-lane are three houses of the reign of Charles I., retaining a
f^w of their classic mouldings, cornices, and window pediments.
Tradescant*s Mouse, South Lambeth-road, a large brick edifice, nearly oppodte
Spring-lane, was the residence of the Tradescants, father and son; and of Klias
Ashmole, who "added a noble room to it, and adorned the chimney with his arms,
impaling those of Sir William Dugdale, whose Slaughter was his third wife." The
houses with its museum, was called " Tradescanf s Ark." (See Gabdeitb, p. 368.)
INNS OF OLD LONDON. 451
Warwick House, Cloth Fair, Smithfield, built temp. Elizabeth, was bought with the
Priory of St. Bartholomew, and the right to hold the Fair, by Sir Robert Bich, in
1544^ and devolved to his descendants, the Earls of Warwick and Holland ; whence
that ^ nproarioiis rabblement," called Lady Holland? s Mob, which assembled on the
eve of St. Bartholomew in mock proclamation of the Fair.
Weather-hoarded house-fronts, in part plastered, are of old date : there was, until
1853, a row of these wood tenements on the east side of Milford-lane, Strand ; and up
a passage in Bell-yard, Fleet-street, a little north-west of a house temp, Charles I., is
a square court entirely of weather-board and plaster, bespeaking the inflammable
nature of London before the Great fire.
Winchester-streei?, Old Broad-street, the nioet curious spedmen of ancient domestic
architecture to be found in the City, cUsappeared in 1865. It occupied the site of the
gardens of the Priory of St. Aug^ustine. Part of the house which the Marquis of Win-
chester built here still remains. Pinners' Hall, an old building at the- upper end of
Princes'-court, in Winchester-street, was also part of the Augustine Priory ; and was
converted into a glasshouse before it became the property of the Pinmakers' Company,
and, with its gabled house-fronts and ancient air, was rendered still more curious in
contrast with the magnificent edifices and the great railway works around it. Some
of the old shops, without fronts, in this street were very remarkable. During the
removal were dug up some remains which carry us far beyond the Priory occupancy—
as a piece of Samian ware and part of a well-wrought bone stylus ; and an iron knife,
or perhaps a Roman razor, almost exactly like that engraved in Mr. Roach Smith's
Catalogue, p. 72.
Several examples of Old Loudon Houses are engraved and described in the Builder,
Noa. 486, 489, 494, and 515.
INNS OF OLD LONDON.
OP Olden Inns, up gateways, and consisting of rooms for refection below, and long
projecting balustraded galleries above, leading to the chambers — ^time and change
have spared a few interesting specimens.
Angel, Isling^n (actually in St. James's, Clerkenwell), once a busy resort of travel-
lers on the Great North Road, is reputed to have been established upwards of 20O
years : it was rebuilt in 1819. The old inn-yard was nearly quadrangular, with double
galleries, supported by plain columns, and pilasters carved with caryatid and other
figures. (SeePugin's Views in Islington and Pentonville, 1819.) A coloured drawing
of this old inn-yard is preserved here. The Peacock, another inn hard by, was of equal
if not greater antiquity.
Angel, St. Clement's, Strand, retained to the last its gables and portions of covered gal-
leries, with an old lattice-fronted attic passage. Data of three centuries since also attest its
antiquity : Bishop Hooper, the venerated martyr of the Reformation, upon his second
committal to the Fleet Prison in 1558, refusing to recant his opinions, was condemned
to be burnt, in January, 1555. It was expected that he would have accompanied
Rogers, a prebendary of St. Paul's, to the sttike ; but Hooper was led back to his cell»
to be carried down to Gloucester, to sufier among his own people. Next morning
he was roused at four o'clock, and being committed to the care of six of Queen Mary's
Gnard, they took him, before it was light, to the Angel Inn, St. Clement's, then
standing in the fields; and thence he was taken to Gloucester, and there burnt with
dreadful torments on the 9th of February.
In the PtthUe Adv0rii$ert If arch 28, 1769, Is the followingr advertiBenient :—
"To be fold, a Black Girl, the propertj of J. B , eleven years of age, who is extreme! j handj,
works at her ueedle tolerablj, and speaks English perfectly well; is of an excellent temper and willing
disposition. Inquire of Mr. Owen, at the Angel Inn, behind St. Clement's Church, in the Strand."
The Angel Inn has been taken down ; and upon its site is built the cul-ds'sae of
Chambers called " Danes' Inn."
Ape, Philip-lane, London Wall : here were formerly two galleried inns, the Ape and
the Cock, of great antiquity ; the sig^ of the former is preserved on the house No. 14.
Saptisi^s Head public-house, east side of St. John's-lane, Clerkenwell, just without
the Priory-gate, is a fragment of an Elizabethan mansion, and until its renovation had
aa overhanging front grotesquely carved, and lit by large bay windows, with painted
a a 2
452 CURIOSITIES OF LONDON.
glan : some of the interior BcroU-paneUing remains. This house was the residence of
Sir Thomas Forster, Knt., one of the judges of the Court of Common Pleas; he <iUed
in 1612, and his arms, sculptured upon the chimney-pieoe of the present tap-room,
have heen collated in CromweU's ClerkemtoelL The sign may have been chosen in
compliment to Sir Baptist Hicks ; and the public-house is said to have heen frequented
by Samuel Johnson and Oliver €k>Idsmith in connexion with their tranaactiona at
Cave's printing-office over St. John's Gate.
Bellj Great Carter-lane, Doctors' Commons : hence, Oct. 26, 1598, Richard Quiney
addressed to his " loveing good ffirend and countryman, Mr. Wm. Scliackespere " (then
living in Southwark, near the Bear-garden), for a loan of thirty pounds ; which letter
we have seen in the possession of Mr. R. Bell Wheler, at Stratford-upon-Avon : it is
believed to be the only existing letter addressed to Shakspeare. The Bell inn has
disappeared, but has pven name to BelUyard.
Bell, Warwick- lane, Newgate-street : here Archbishop Leigh ton, the steady advocate
of peace and forbearance, died 1684 j little of the old inn remains.
" He often used to saj, that if he were to obooeea place to die In, it iboold be an inn ; It lookinf^ like a
pUffrim'i goin; home, to whom this world was all on inn. and who was weaxy of the nolaa and coofuiaaa
in It ... . And he obtained what he desired."— Burnet • Own Tiaug.
Bell Savage, or Belle Salvage, Ludgate-hill, is a specimen of the players' inn-yard
before our regular theatres were built. The landlord's token, issued between 1648
and 1672, bears an Indian woman hol^g a bow and arrow. The sign is thus traced:
" Ai for the Bell Savagro. which is the sign of a aavage man standing bj a bell, I was forroerlyTery
mnch paialed upon the conceit of it, till I a^dentally fell into the reading of an old romaace translated
oat of the French, which gives an account of a very beaatlAil woman who was found in a wildernei^*,
and is called hi the French 'la Belle Sauvage,' and is everywhere translated by oar oonutfymen the BeU
Savage."— £^Mefa/or, No. 28.
The sign, however, was originally a bell hung within a hoop, as proved by a grant
<tfmp. Henry VI., wherein John French gives to Joan French, widow, his mother,
"all that tenement or inn called Savagt^s Inn, otherwise called the BeU on the Moop,"
In the London Gazette, 1676, it is termed '* an antient inn." Stow affirms it to have
been given to the Cutlers' Company by one Isabella Savage : but their records state by
Mrs. Craythome. (See Cutlbbs' Kall, p. 414.) Here Sir Thomas Wyat'a rebellion
was stopped.
"And he (Wyet) himself came in at Te(mple Bar. and) loodown alle Flet'Strete, and aoo nn-to the
Belle Savage. And then was his trayne (attacked at) the commandment of the erle of Pembroke, and
sartayne or hys men slayne. And whan (he saw) that Ludgatte was shutt agnyne hym, ho departed
saynge, ' I have kepte towche,' and soo went (back) asayne ; and by the Tempulle barre he was tanc^
and soo brought by watter nntothe (Tower) of London/' — Chroniele qfihe Qrey Prion t^ London,
Fuller, in his Ckurek Hittorg, states that after Wyat's adherents hod forsaken him, ho flung himfdf
on a bench opposite the Bell Savage, and began to repent the rashness of his enterprise, and lament his
folly. He was summoned by an herald to submit, which he agreed to do, but would yield only to a gen-
tleman ;— and afterwards surrendered to Sir Maurice Berkeley.
In Bell Savflge-yard lived Grinling Gibbons, " where he carved a pot of flowers
which shook surprisingly ^vith the motion of the coaches that passed by." — Walpole.
This was one of the inns at which Bankes exhibited his wonderfhl horse, Marocco, whose aocompliah-
ment was dancing. One of his exploits was going up to the top of St. Paul's Church. The horse is
first mentioned about 1690. He was exhibited not only in England but abroad, where it becaaae sus-
pected that the horse was a demon, snd his exhibitor was a sorcerer; and both were burnt at Rome by
the Inquisition. There is an extremely rare tract, Maroecus ExtaHeut : or^ Banlu§'$ Bay Mono in a
Tranee, 1605, a fine copy of which at Mr. Daniel's Canonbnry sale, in 1864^ fetched 81/.
The old inn has been taken down, and upon its nte and that of the inn-yard have
been erected the extensive printing works of Cassell, Fetter, and Galpin. Au old
house, bearing the crest of the Cutlers' Company, cut in stone, remains.
Bloeeoms, Lawronce-lane, Cheapside, "corruptly Bosoms Inn, hath to sig^n 'SL
Laurence the Deacon,' in a border of blossoms or flowers," which, says the legend,
sprung up *' on the spot of hb cniel martyrdom." Tliis was one of the inns hired for
die retinue of Charles V. on his visit to London in 1522, when " zx. beddes and a
stable for ix. horses" were ordered here.
Bolt'in-7\tn, Fleet-street, No. 64, in a gfrant to the White Friars in 1443, is termed
" Hospitium vocatum Le Boltenton." In Wliitefriars-street, "No. 10 is the Black Lien,
a small inn-yard with exterior wooden balustraded gallery, &c. Among the landa and
tenements in St. Dunstan's occur the Bore's Rede, rented at 4/. ; le Bolte and 7\>n»e,
4i,i and le Blake Swanne, 4/.; all in Fleet-street.
INNS OF OLD LONDON. 45;5
Bull, Bishopsgate, in its galleried yard, acoommodated audiences for our early actors^
before the bnilding of licensed theatres. Bichard Tarlton frequently played here.
Sull and Mouth, St. Mariin's-le-Grand, and the £uU and Oate, Holbom, had
probably the same origin, the Bullogne Gate, one of the Gates of Bullogne, designed,
perhaps, as a compliment to Henry VIII., who took that place in 1544. This G. A.
Steevenii learned from the title-page of an old play. Tom Jones, it will be recollected,
alighted at the Bull and Gate, Holbom, when he first came to London. Strype tells
UB that the Bull and Mouth was the great resort of those who bring bone-lace
for sale ; and the house was much frequented by the Quakers before the Great Fire.
This continued to be a great coach-office to all parts of England and Scotland, until the
railways rose up. About this time the house was rebuilt in handsome style by Mr.
Sherman : In the centre between the second-fioor windows is a sculptured g^up of
great absurdity : a Bull, and beneath it, a gigantic open mouth ;* above is a bust of
Edward Y I., the founder of Christ's Hospital, to which foundation the site belongs.
Clerhenwell. In St. John-street is the Crots Keys, where the carrier of Daintree
lodged in 1637; Hatton mentions the Three Cups, near Hicks's Hall. Here also are
the Golden Lion and the Windmill; and in Woodbridge-street was the Bed Bull
inn, the yard once the pit of the Red Bull Theatre. (See Clbreenwell, p. 236.)
Coach and Horses, at the entrance to Bartholomew Close, is a portion of the ancient
priory, probably the hospiiium, at the end of the north cloister : the first floor has an
arched roof and 16th-century cornice ; the tap-room has an Early-English window : and
the beer-cellar, a crypt, has a 12th'Century clustered column. Of St. Bartholomew's,
also, exist the prior's house, and the hall, with an ancient timbered roof, now used as a
tobacoo-manufiictory. Close by is the monastery kitchen, from which a subterranean
passage, in our time, communicated with the church : it has two panelled rooms, one with
a vaulted roof and carved mantel-piece. (See Archer's Vestiges of Old London, part v.)
Cock, in TothiU-street, was probably the most ancient domestic edifice in West-
minster : it was built entirely of timber, and at the back was a long inn-yard, with
heavy timber sheds. The upper part of the house consisted of one story, in which
were several rooms on difierent levels, one of which remained in its original state, a
curious specimen of an early timbered room, being entirely of chestnut-wood. The
exterior was very picturesque, although plastered and painted. The house was
entered by a descent of three steps : in the parlour was a massive oak carving of the
Adoration of the Magi, of Flemish work, well executed and painted to the life.
Another piece of carved work, more In the High German manner, an alto-relievo of
Abraham ofiering up Isaac, was preserved in an adjoining room. The Cock is sud to
have been frequented by the builders of Henry YIl.'s Chapel ; and there is a further
tradition that here was the pay-table of the workmen at the building of the Abbey, temp.
Henry III. In 1845, Mr. Archer found in the kitchen the old sign of the Ro^
Arms, which, with the Flemish carving and ancient bedchamber, are engraved in the
Vestiges of Old London, part vi. From this house started the first Oxford coach ; and
a portrait of its original driver was shown here. The old house has some time disappeared.
Cross Keys, Gracechurch-street, was one of the old galleried inns at which Bankes
exhibited the extraordinary feats of his horse Marocco; the better class of spectators
being in the galleries. Bichard Tarlton, the clown, kept a tavern here. He was
cbosen scavenger, " and often the ward complained of his slacknesse in keeping the
streets deane." Tlie first stage-coach travelling between Clapbam and Gracechurch-
■treet, once daily, was established in the year 1690, by John Day and John Bundy.
The Cross Keys, Wood-street, Cheapside, was taken down in 1865 : this sign, and that
in Gracechurch-street, taken down in 1866, were derived from adjoining churches
bdng dedicated to St. Peter, whose emblem is two keys crossed.
Elephant and Castle, Newington Butts, was a noted stage-coach house until the
railway times ; and was originally a low- built roadside inn, with outer gallery, a draw-
ing of which hangs in the present tavern. Adjoining was a large sectarian chapel,
inKiibed in gigantic capitals " The House of Gob !" held by the dupes of Joanna
8outhcott, whose dreams and visions were painted upon the widls. There is an odd
* Thii 1b refinred by some to the story of Milo, who, after killing a bollock with a blow of his flst»
•teitopinameall
454 CURIOSITIES OF LONDON.
notion that this Elephant and Castle mgn waa fonnded npon the Ending of elephant
bones near the inn site ; but an elephant and castle is the crest of the Cutlers' Comj^y.
Ibur Swans, Bishopsgate-street Without^ is perhaps the most perfect old London
inn, its galleries being entire. Hobson, the noted CEunbridge carrier, pat np here.
" Thii memorable man ttands drawn la fresco at an inn (whidi he used) in Biahopagata-atreetk iritJi
an hundred-pound bag nnder his arm, with thia inscription upon the said ba^ :
' The fruitful mother of a hundred more.' "-Speetator, No. fiOQ.
George and Blue Boar, Holbom, was asaodated with a great event in onr history :
here is said to have been intercepted Charles I.'s letter, by which Ireton discovered
it to be the King's intention to destroy him and CromweD, which discovery brought
about Charles's execution ; but the story is disbelieved. Nearly opposite the G^ecrge
and Blue Boar was the Bed Lion, the largest inn in Holbom ; and where the bodies
of Cromwell, Ireton, and Bradshawe were carried from Westminster Abbey, and next
^y dragged on sledges to Tyburn — a retributive coincidence worthy of note. In old
8t. Giles's Church was "a red lyon painted in glasse, given by the inneholder of the
Bed Lyon." (Aubrey,)
George, Snowhill, is a relic of the time when this hill was the only highway fiiom
Holbom-bridge eastward ; the house appears to have been an extensive inn for carriers
t a very early date, and
** St George that swiur'd the dragon.
And sits on his horseback at mine hoste'a door,**
though much dilapidated, is a good specimen of a carved agn-stone.
Gerard^s HaU, Banng-lane aud Bread>street, Cheapside, replaced the andent Hall of
the Gisora^ the fine Norman crypt of which remained for a wine-cellar ; but, with the
flnperstructure, was removed in 1852, in formiog New Cannon-street.
GUet^e, St., was formerly noted for its large inns. (See St. Giles'b, pp. 37&«877.)
Green Man, on the site of the commencement of the present Osnaburg-street, was
originally the Farthing Pye-house, kept by Price, the noted rolling-pin and salt-
"box player; here were sold bits of mutton, put into a crust, and* shaped like a pie,
fbr a farthing !
Half-way House, Eensing^n-road, opposite the site of the building for the Great
Exhibition of 1851, and near the Prince of Wales's Gate, Hyde Park, was removed in
1846 at an expense of 30502., in addition to the purchase of the fee.
Holbom Hill. The Bose has disappeared within our recollection : from this inn
Taylor the Water-poet started in the Southampton coafih for the Isle of Wight^ 19th
October, 1647, while Charles I. was there :
" We took one coach, two coachmen, and four horses.
And merrily from London made our courses.
We whecl'd the top of the heavy hill call'd Holbom,
(Up which hath been Ihll many a sinAil soul borne,)
And so along we jolted past St. Giles's,
Which place from Brentford six or seven miles is."
Taylor's Travd$from London to ike Itlo qf WigfJU, 1647.
Tlie Old Bell, Holbom, bears the arms of Fowler, of Islington, viz., azure, on a
chevron, argent, between three herons, as many crosses form^e^ gules. These arms also
occur on a building supposed to have been the lodge of Fowler^s house in Isling^n.
King's Arms, Leadenhall-street, No. 122 : in the reign of William 111., Sir John
Fenwick and others met here to plan the restoration of James II.
Oxford Arms, situate at the end of a narrow street out of the west side of Warwick-
lane, and southward of Warwick-square and the old Collie of Physicians, has a red
brick pedimented facade of the period of Charles II. surmounting a gateway leading into
the inn-yard, which has on three of its sides two rows of wooden galleries, with
exterior staircases leading to the chambers on each floor, the fourth side being occupied
by stabling built against part of old London- wall. This house, known as the Oxford
Arms before the Great Fire, must have been then consumed, but was rebuilt on the
plan of the former inn. The Oxford Arms was not, as supposed, part of the Earl of
Warwick's house ; as it belongs, and has belonged of old time, to the Dean and Chapter
of St. Paul's, llie houses of the Canons Residentiary of St. Paul's adjoin the Oxford
Arms on the south, and part of London Wall is still remaining in the court-yard of
those houses. There is a door from the old inn leading into one of the back yards of
INNS OF OLD LONDON 455
tbe residentiary houses, which is said to have been found nsefdl daring the Riots of
1780, for facilitaling the escape of Roman Catholics, who then frequented the Oxford
Arms, from the fury of the mob^ by enabling them to pass into the residentiary
houses ; for which reason, as is said, by a clause always inserted in the leases of the
inn, that door is forbidden to be closed up. {Communication to the Builder^ The
London Gazette, 1762-3, No. 762, has this advertisement :
"These are to give notice that Edward Bartlet, Oxford Carrier, hath removed his inn in London
from the Swan at Uolbom Bridge to the Oxford Arms in Warwick Lane, where ho did Inn before the
lire. His coaches and waggons going forth on their usual days, Mondays, Wednesdays, and Fridays.
He hath also a Heanc with all things convenient to carry a corps to any part of England."
At the Oxford Arms, in Warwick-lane, lived John Roberts, the bookseller, from
whose shop issued the majority of the squibs and libels on Pope.
JPaul I^indar's Head, comer of Half-moon-alley, No. 160, Bishopsgate-street
Withont, was the mansion of Sir Paul Pindar, the wealthy merchant, contemporary
with Sir Thomas Gresham. The house was built towards the end of the 16th century,
with a wood-fitimed front and caryatid brackets, the prindpal windows bayed, and
their lower fronts enriched with panels of carved work. In the first-floor front room
is a fine original ceiling in stucco, in which are the arms of Sir Paul Pindar. In the
rear of these premises, within a garden, was formerly a lodge, of corresponding dat^
decorated with four medallions of figures in Italian taste.
Piccadilly Inne. At the east end were formerly the BUtch Bear and White Bear
(originally the Fleece), nearly opposite each other. The Block Bear was taken down
in 1820. Tbe W%ite Bear occurs in St. Martin's parish-books in 1685 : here Chatelain
and Sullivan, the engravers, died ; and Benjamin West, the painter, lodged the first
night after his arrival ixom America. Strype mentions the White Sorse Cellar in
1720; and the booking office of the New White Morse Cellar is to this day in *<the
cellar." The Three Kings stables' gateway. No. 75, had two Corinthian piUisters,
stated by ly Israeli to have belonged to Clarendon House : ** the stable-yard at the back
presents the features of an old galleried inn-yard, and it is noted as the place from
which General Palmer started the first Bath mail coach." (J. W. Archer : Vestiges,
pArt vL) The Sercule^ Pillars (a sign which meant that no habitation was to be
found beyond it) stood a few yards west of Hamilton-place, and is mentioned as ono
extremity of London by Wycherley, in 1676. Her© Squire Western " placed his
horses" when he an-ived in London with the fair Sophia (see Tom Jones) ; here " the
horses of many of the quality stood ;" and it became the scene of fashionable dinner-
parties of the officers of the army, often headed by the Marquis of Granby. The SereuU^
Pillars, and another roadside inn, the Triumphant Car, were standing about 1797, and
were mostly frequented by soldiers. Two other Piccadilly inns, the White Sorse and
Salf^moon, have given names to streets.
Pied Bull, Church-row, Islington, traditionally the residence of Sir Walter Raleigh,
and in the Elizabethan style, was taken down in 1826-7. The late front was modem ;
but the parlonr (the original dining-room) had an elaborately*carved chimney-piece,
with figures of Faith, Hope, and Charity; and a stuccoed ceiling, with personifications
of the Five Senses. In a window were painted the arms of Sir John Miller, who lived
there in 1634 ; and a bunch of green leaves above the shield was popularly regarded
as the tobacco-plant introduced l^ Raleigh.
(iueen^s Head, Lower-street, Islington, was a still more perfect Elizabethan house
than the above. The walls were strong timber framework, filled in with lath and
plaster; the three stories projected, and the windows wore supported by carved
brackets ; the entrance porch being ornamented by caryatides and Ionic scrolls. The
interior had panelled wainscot, and stuccoed ceilings of ridi design. The house has
^n rebuilt, and portions of the old woodwork are preserved.
Pindar of Wakefield, Gi-ay's-inn-road, was a roadside inn in Aubrey's time, 1685,
^ho mentions the yellow-flowered Neapolitan bank-cresses, the London rocket, grow-
uig there, as well as on the ruins of London, after the Great Fire.
Bose of Normandy, on the east side of High-street, Marylebone, built in the l7th
century, was the oldest house in the parish, and had tbe original exterior, staircase, and
balusters. In the rear was a bowling-green, enclosed with walls set with fruit-treea
And qoiekiet hedges " indented like town-walls."
456 CURIOSITIES OF LONDON.
II - --
Sar€teen*9 JSead, Snow-hill (actually in Skinner-street), and of old " withaat New-
gate/' was in Stow's time ** a fair and large inn fbr the receipt of trayeUers."
Saracen's Head, Friday-street, Cheapside, adjoined St. Matthew's Church, and
No. 5, said to have heen the dwelling-house of Sir Christopher Wren. The inn con-
sisted of three floors with open galleried fronts, besides the ground-floor : it was taken
down in 1844 ; and upon its site, extending nearly to Old Change, lar^e Manchester
warehouses were erected. There was also a Saracen's Head, No. 5, Aldgate: it was
once a common London sign, which Selden thus illustrates : —
" When oar coontrTinen eame home fVom fighthig with the Sarsoeni, and were beaten by them, they
pictured them with huge, bi|r, terrible Ihees (as you itill lee the li^ of the Saracen's head is), whci in
tnth they were like other men. Bat this they did to save their own credit."— Toi/* Talk.
SouTHWASK Imrs.— Stow enumerates here " many fair inns for receipt of traTellers,
by these signs: the /SJ/ncrr, Christopher, Bull, Queene^s Head, Tabard, George, Hart,
Kin^s Head," &c Of these the most andent is the Tabard (now Talboi), No. 75,
High-street, opposite the Town-hall site. The tabard is a jacket or sleereleas ooat,
worn in times past by noblemen, with their arms embroidered on it^ but now only by
heralds, as their coat of arms in service. ** This was the hostelry where Chaucer and the
other pilgrims met together, and with Henry Bailly, their hoste, accorded about the
manner of their journey to Canterbury." {Speght, 1598.)
" Befell that in that season, on a day
At Soathwark at the Tabard as I lay,
Readie to wander on my Pilgrimage
To Canterbarie with deroat oourag^
At night was come into that hoetdrls
Well nine-and-twenty in a companie
Of sundrie folke, by adventure yfall
In fellowahii), and pUgrimes were they all.
That toward Canterbcuie wouden ride :
The chambers and the stables weren wid^
And well we weren eased at the bett^" kc—ChatMr.
The Register of Hyde Abbey, and the Escheat Rolls of King Edward I., show the
acquisition by the Abbey of Hyde of the Tabard and the Abbofs House, in Soutb-
wark, by purchase from William de Lategaresliall, in 1804. Henry Bailly, Chaucer's
host of the Tabard, is identifled as one of the representatives of the borough of South-
wark in Parliament^ in the 50th of Edward III. and 2nd of Richard II. ; and in the
4th of Richard II. " Henry Baylifi^, ostyler, and Christian his wife, were assessed to
the subsidy (in Southwark) at 2s" After the Dissolution of the monasteries, the
Tabcird and the Abbofs House were sold by King Henry VIII. to John Master and
Thomas Master ; and the particulars for the grant in the Augmentation Office afford
descriptions of the hostelry called the Tabard, parcel of the possessions of the monas-
tery of Hyde, and the Abbot's Place, with the ^stable and garden belonging thereto.
The Tabard is mentioned to have been late in the occupation of one Robert Patty, but
the Abbot's Place, with the garden and stable. Were reserved to the late Bishop Com-
mendator, John Saltcote, ali<u Capon, who had been last abbot of Hyde, and who
surrendered it to King Henry VIII. ; and after being made Bishop of Bangor, in cotn-
tnendam with the Abbey of Hyde, subsequent to the Surrender of the abbey he was pre-
ferred to the see of Salisbury, in 1539, which he retained till his death in 1557. Upon
the brestsummer beam of the gateway flicing the street was formerly inscribed : "This is
the inne where Sir Jeffry Chaucer and the nine-and-twenty pilgrims lay in their jour-
ney to Canterbury, anno 1883." This was painted out in 1831 : this was originally
inscribed upon a beam across the road, whence swung the sign, removed in 1763, when
the inscription was transferred to the gateway. The sig^ was changed about 1G76,
when, says Aubrey, " the ignorant landlord or tenant, instead of the ancient sign of the
Tabard, put up tlie Talbot, or dog !" The buildings of Chaucer's time have disap-
peared, but were standing in 1602 : the oldest remaining is of the age of Elizabeth ;
and the most interesting portion is a stone-coloured wooden gallery, in front of which is
a picture of the Canterbury Pilgrimage, said to have been painted by Blake : immediately
behind is the IHlgrims* Room of tradition, but only a porUon of the ancient haU.
The gallery formerly extended throughout the inn buildings. The inn facing the street
was burnt in the Great Fire of Southward : " this house," says Aubrey, " remaitUng
before the fire qf 1&I6, was an old timber house, probably coeval with Chaucer's time;"
INNS OF OLD LONDON. 457
St is sbown in the oldest view of the Tahard extant, in Urry's Chaucer, 1720, repro-
duced in The Mirror, vol. zxii. 1883. Mr. G. R. Corner^ F.SJL., who has left ns the
fullest and best aooonntof the ancient Inns of Sonthwark (see Colleeiiont of the Surrey
Archaologieal Society, vol. ii. part, ii.), was of opinion, from personal examination
of the premises (at some risk), that there was nothing in the existing remains of the
Tabard earlier than the Fire of 1676, after which was bnilt the supposed '^Pilgrims'
Hall/' the fireplaces in which are of this date. [The date of the Canterbury Pil-
grimage is generally supposed to have been the year 1883. The MS., almost perfect^
well written, and richly illuminated, was exhibited to the British Association, in 1865, by
Archdeacon Moore, at Lichfield CathedraL] Taylor the Water-poot mentions another
Tabard inn, "neere the Conduit," in Gracechurch-street.
The Oeorge is described by Stow as existing in his time; and it is mentioned at an
earlier period, viz., in 1554, 85th Henry VIII., by the name of the St» George, as
being situate on the north nde of the Tabard. In the seventeenth century, two
tokens were issued from The George, which are in the Beaufoy collection at Guild-
ball, and described in Mr. Bum's ably compiled Catalogue. The first is a token of
"Anthony Blake;, Tapster, y« George in Southwarke;" and on the reverse are three
tobacco-pipes; above them, four beer-measures. The other token is inscribed, " James
Gunter 16 . ." ?— St. George and Dragon, in field. Reverse, "In Southwarke :" in
the field, " I.A.O." Mr. Bum quotes some lines from the Muearum Delicia, 1656,
upon a sai£Bit by drinking bad sack at The George tavern in Southwark:
" Ob, would I might tnrne poet for an boare^
To fstirixo with a vhidlotive power
Amiiut the drawer I or 1 could deiire
Old JoDson'e head had sealded in this fire :
How would he rage and briuflr ApoUo down
To loold with Bacchus, and depose the clown
For his ill-government, and so confute
Our poet4ipes, that do so much fanpute
Unto the grape's inspirement !"
In the year 1670 The George was, in great part, burnt and demoUshed by fire ; and
it was totally burnt down in the Great Fire of Sonthwark, in 1676. The following is
from the Diary of the Bev. John Ward, written a few years later :—
** Oover and his Irish ruiBans burnt Sonthwark, and had 1000 pounds for their pains, said the Narra-
tive of Bedloe. Giflbrd, a Jesuit, had the management of the fire. The aoth of May, 1676, was the dismal
fire of Southwark. The fire beraine at one Mr. Welsh, an oilman, near St Margaret's Hill, betwixt the
* Ueorge* and * Talbof innes, as Ikdloe in his Narration relates."— Diofy ^ the Bso. Jokm Ward, p. 166.
The Fire was stopped by the substantial building of St. Thomas's Hospital, then
recently erected ; and, in commemoration of the event, there was a tablet placed on
the staircase, over the door of the hall or court-room, with an inscription. Although
the present building of The George Inn is not older than the end of the seventeenth
century, it seems to have been rebuilt, after the Fire, upon the old plan ; and it still
preserves the character of the ancient English inns, ha\dng open wooden galleries
leading to the chambers on each side of the inn-yard.
7%e White Hart, the head-quarters of Jack Cade and his rebel rout in 1450 (and a
dozen doors nearer London Bridge than the Tabard), has been demolished. The back
part of this inn was burnt in 1699, and the remainder was destroyed in the gp^eat Fire
in Sonthwark in 1676; it was rebuilt upon the plan of the older edifice, and is well
engraved from a drawing by Mr. Fairholt^ in the ArchsBological Collections just quoted.
Sliakspeare makes Cade say, " Hath my sword therefore broke through London gates,
that yon should leave me at the WhUe Hart in Southwark." At the Sart lodged
Jack Cade on his arrival in Southwark, July 1, 1450 ; " for," says Fabyan, " he might
not be suflered to enter the Citio." Again, of Cade's rebels, " at the Whyt Sarte in
Southwarke one Hawaydine of Sent Martyns was beheddyd." (jQhroniclea of the Grey
Friare of London,) Hatton (1708) describes the White SaH as *'the hrgest size
about London, except the Castle Tavern, in Fleet-street." Mr. Comer brought to-
gether some curious notices of this inn from the JPaston Letters, vol. i. p. 61. The
White Hart of our time is well described in the Fickwick Papers, by Charles Dickens.
The other Southwark inns named by Stow remain, except the Christopher; but they
458 CUBI0SITJ0E8 OF LONBON.
have mostly lost their galleries and other olden features. The Kin^t Sead sign was
within onr recollection a well-painted half-length of Henry VIII. The CkUheriue
Wheel remains ; hut we miss the Doff and Bear, which sign, as well as Maypole-alley,
hard hy, points to olden sport and pastime.
The Whfie Lion, formerly a prison for the county of Surrey, as well as -an inn, is
mentioned in records in the reign of King Henry VIII., having belonged to the Prioi^'
of St. Mary Overey. It is also mentioned hy Stow, and it continued to be the county
prison till 1695. The rabble apprentices of the year 1640, as Laud relates in his
Troubles, released the whole of the prisoners in The WhUelAon, It has been supposed
that the MThite Lion was the same house that, before the bmlding of New London
Bridge, was called Baxter^e Chophouse, No, 19, High-street ; and in old deeds, The
Crownj or The Crown and Chequers, an old plaster-fronted house. The house which
stood in the court beside it^ and was formerly called The Three Brushes, or ** Holy Water
Sprinklers," was of the time of Elizabeth ; and some drawings exist of the interior, as
a panelled room, with an ornamental plaster ceiling, having in the centre the arms of
Queen Elizabeth, with E. B. in support of this opinion. This room is supposed to have
been the court or justice-room in which her Majesty's justices sat and held their sessions.
The house was pulled down about 1832, for making the new street to London Bridge.
Bear ai the Bridge-foot was a noted house during the sixteenth and seventeenth
centuries, and it remained until the houses on the old bridge were pulled down, in or
about the year 1760. This house was situate in the parish of St. Olave, on the west side
of High-street, between Pepper-alley and the foot of London Bridge. It is mentioned in
a deed of conveyance (dated Dec 12, 1554^ in the first and second years of Philip and
Mary) ; and in the parish-books, of the same date, there is still earlier mention of this
house^ for among the entries of the disbursements of Sir John Howard, in his steward's
accounts^ are recorded : — ** March 6th, 1463-^ Item payd tor the red wyn at the
Bere in Southewerke, md" And again, " March 14th (same year). Item payd at
dinner at the Bere in Southewerke, in Costya^ iiif. md. Item, that my martyr lost at
■hotynge, zx<2."
ComdioB Cooke, mentioiied in the pariah soooonts of St. Oltve's as overseer of the hmd side aa eerlj
as 1630, became a soldier, and ultimately wai made captdn of the Trained Bands. He rose to the rank
of colonel in CromweH'i time, and waa appointed one of the Commiasionera for the aale of the kind's
landa. After the Restoration, he settled down as landlord of tins inn. Gerrard, in a letter to Lofd
Strafford, dated January, 1633, intimates that all back doors to taverns on the Thames were commanded
to be shut up, excepting^ only the Bear at the Bridge-foot, exempted by reason of the j^assa^E^ to Green-
wich. The ''Cayafiers' Ballad" on the magnificent funeral honours rendered to Admiral Dean Ckilled
June a, 1663) haa the following allusion :—
" From Greenwich towards the Bear at Bridge foot^
He was wafted with wind that had water to't j .
But I think the^r brought the devil to boot.
Which nobody can deny."
There is also another allnsion in the following lines from a ballad "On banishing the Ladies cot d
Town:"—
" Farewell Bridge foot and Bear thereby.
And those bald pates that stand so high;
We wish it from our very souls
That other heads were on those poles,
Fepys, on the 2ith February, 1666-7^ mentions the mistress of the Bear drowning herself and again
alludes to the inn on the Sni of Apnl following.
In the year 1761 the Bear was pulled down, on the hridge hdng widened. In the
^hlic Advertiser, of Saturday, Dec. 26, 1761, is the following announcement: —
** Thursday last, the workmen employed in pulling down the Bear tavern, at the foot
of London Bridge, found several pieces of gold and silver coin of Queen Elizabeth, and
other monies to a considerable extent."
Boar's Sead. — Southwark had its Boar's Sead, as weU as the City of London its
Boar's Sead in East Cheap, immortalized by Shakspeare; and while the one is celebrated
as the resort of Jack Falstaff, the other was the property of another of Shakspere's
characters, who has often been erroneously confounded with lean Jack. Sir John Fastolf,
of Caistor, Norfolk, and of Southwark, where (in Stoney-lane) he had his town house,
was a man of military renown, having been in the French wars of Henry VL; and was
govenior of Normandy : he was also a man of letters and learning, and the Boar's
Mead formed part of the endowment of Magdalen College, Oxford, founded by his
INNS OF OLD LONDON. 459
friend, William Waynfleet, Bishop of Winchester, at whose instance Sir John Pastolf gave
large possessions in Sonthwark and elsewhere towards the foundation. In the JReliquia
MeamiaruB, edited hy Dr. Bliss, is the following entry relative to this hequest : —
1721. June 2.— -The reuon why they cannot give so good an aoconnt of the benefhctlon of Sir John
Futolf to Magd. Coll. is, because he gave it to the founder, and left it to his management, so that
'tis suppos'd 'twas swallow'd up in his own estate that he settled upon the college. However, the
college knows this, that ihe'Boai^t Sead, in Soatiiwark, which was then an inn, and still ret^ns ihe
name, tho' divided into several t^oements (which brings the collie 160Z. per annum), was part of
Sir John's gift.
The property ahove-mentioned was, for many years, leased to the &ther of the
author of the present work, and was hy him prindpaUy suh-let to weekly tenants. The
premises were named " Boar's Head-court," and consisted of two rows of tenements^
vu-a^vit, and two houses at the east-end, with a gallery outside the first floors : the tene-
ments were fronted with strong weather-hoard, and the balusters of the staircases were
of great age. The Court entrance was between the houses Nos. 25 and 26, east side of
High-street^ and that number of houses from old London Bridge ; and beneath the
whole extent of the Court was a finely- vaulted cellar, doubtless the wine-cellar of the
Soar's Hecid, The property was cleared away in making the approach to the new
bridge. (See Notes and Queries, 2nd s.. No. 109.) In the Beaufoy Collection, at
ChiildbaU, is a token of the Boon's Sead (a boar's head, lemon in mouth, 1649).
There were at St. Margaret's-hill, a Boar's Head-alley, and Boar's Head Livery Stables.
Spread Eagle, Grracechurch-street, was rebuilt after the Great Fire. Of tlds inn we
find Taylor, the Water-poet, in his Carrier's Costnoffraphie, 4to, 1687, mentioning *'Thd
Tabard near the Conduit^" and "the Spread JSagle," both in "Gracious-street."
The latter was taken down' in 1865, but remained to the last nearly entire, with
its outer galleries to the two floors. The plot of ground which it occupied contained
in all 12,600 feet, 6600 feet of which were leasehold for a long term, and the rest
freehold. It was sold for 95,0002. The ground is surrounded on three sides by
I'eadenhall Market. There is a good view of the old inn in the lUMsirated London
Netos, Dec. 23, 1866.
The Atread SaaU, besides being an earlj carriers' inn, became flunoos as a coaching-house; the
mails and principal stage-coaches for Kent and other southern cotmties arriving and departing from
here. It was long the property of John Chaplin, cousin of WlUiam Chaplin (Chaplin and Uom^, who
wganlife as a coachman at Rochester, served as Sheriff of London and Middlesex, and sat in Parlia-
ment for Sallsbary. He died chairman of the London and South- Western Bailway, and worth a
quarter of a million of mon«y. He was occupier, at one period, of five inn-yards in London, possess^
2^ horses, and his receipts for booking parcels amounted to 80001. a year.
The Orasse-atreet of old was a memorable place. To this market for rrass or herbs, in the reign of
£d»ard IlL, it was customary for every cart (not belonging to a citizen) uden with com or malt going
there to be sold, to pay one] halfbenny; iTlaaen witii cheese, twopence. The cart of the franchise'
or the Temple and St. Maran's-le-Grand paid a Ikrthing; the cart of the Hospital of St. John of
Jenualem pidd nothJnff for their proper goods. In Aggas's plan is shown an open place upon which
White Hart-court was ouHt after the Grrat Fire. Ben Jonaon, in one of his masques, alludes to tho
poulterer's wife in Grace's-street. Pepys calls the street ** Gracious-street" Nov. 28, 1663, he records
the death of '* a poulterer in Gradous-stree^ which was thought rich :" and, on the 24th of the samo
month, Pepya apeaks of the conduit in tiie qnarre four at the end of Graoious*«treet; **the spouts
whereof running very near me upon all the people that were under It." And on Sept. 14^ 1665 (the time
of the Plague), be was honifled ^* to see a person sick of the sores carried close by me by Oraeeekurck,
jn a hackncy-coaoh." He afterwards calls the street " Gracious-street ;" for he says, Nov. 26, 1668, ** So
n)me, buying a iMirel of oysters, at my old oysterwoman's in Gracious-street, but over the way to where
■he kept her shop before (the Fire).^* Sir John Fielding, in his Deieription qf London and W^t^
■Mjter, 177^ calls the street *" Graaschurch-etreet, CorahilL"
Swan with Two Necks, Lad-lane, now Gresham-street, was long the head coach-inn
md booking-office for the North. The sign has been referred to a corruption of two
nickt, or the Vintners' Company's swan-marks on the bill ; but this popular notion is
cluoountenanced by Mr. Kempe, F.S.A. : are the two necks an heraldic monstrosity ?
"The carriers of Manchester doe lodge at the Two-Neck'd Swan in Lad-hme" (Taylor's Carritr's
Oo$mograjM4, 1637), originally Lady's-lane.
Three Cups, Aldersgate-street, is mentioned by Hatton ; with the same ngn in St.
John-street, near Hicks's Hall; and in Bread-street, near .the middle. Beaumont and
Letcher have " the Three Cups in St. Giles's ;" and Winstanley mentions Richard
Head at the same sign in Holborn, making verses over a glass of Rhenish.
W'hite Sart, Bishopsgate-street, taken down in 1829, bore on the front the data
1^ : it was three-storied, with overhanging upper floor, and oocupied the site of **a
460 CUBlOSItnSS OF LONDON.
fiure inne for receipt of travelloiirBi next unto the parish charch of St. BattolpV
tbu8 described by Stow.
White Hart, Coven t- garden, gave name to Hart-street, and is mentioned in
a lease to Sir William Cecil (Lord Burghley) of Sept. 7tb, 1 570. Weever has pre-
served this epitaph in the Savoy Church on an old vintner of the WJUte Mart, who
died 1586:—
"Here lleth Hamphrer Goelinff, of London, vintner,
or the Whyt Hart of thii parieh a neghbor.
Of vertnotti behaviour, a very good archer.
And of honest mirth, a very good company keeper.
Bo well inclyned to poore and rich,
Ood lend more Goalinga to be sicb/*
White Sart, corner of Welbeck-street, was long a detached pnblic-hoose, where
travellers customarily stopped for refreshment, and to examine their firo-arms, before
crossing the fields to Lisson- green. The land westward of the bourn (whence the
parish, now Marylebonc, was named) was a deep marshy valley : here was Feuning's
Folly, upon the top of which was built a fishmonger's ; the shop, level with the street,
having been the Folly upper story.
White Horse, Fetter.lane, was formerly the great Oxford house, as already mentioned
under Fsttsb-lave, p. 336.
Yorkshire Stingo, New-rood, was celebrated for a century and a quarter, and
appears in a plan dated 1757 : here was held annually, on May 1, a Fair, until sup-
pressed as a nuisance.
INNS OF COURT AND CNANCEST.
THE hostels or abodes of the practisers and students of the law before the rogn of
Edward. II. were called Iiuu of Court, because their inhabitants belonged to the
King's Court, first noticed on the Flacita Rolls, 10th Richard I. One of theses John-
son's Inn, is said to have been at Dowgate; another in Fowter's (Fetter) lane; and a
third in Paternoster-row. The Seijeants and Apprentices (of the Law) theJi each had
his pillar in St. Pnul's Church, where he heard his dienfs case :
" A leijeant of the law both ware and wise.
That often had yben at the Perwye." — Chancer'e Oamterbmy Talss.
And in the reign of Charles I., upon the making of seijeants, they went to St. Paul's
in their formalities, and chose their pillars.
Sir John Fortescue, Chief Justice to Henry VI., enumerates four Inns of Court—
th^ Inner Temple, the Middle Temple, Lincoln's Inn, and Oray's Inn— and ten Inos
of Chanceiy : the former frequented by the sons of nobility and wealthy gentry ; and
the latter by mercliRnts and others, who had not the means of paying the greater ex-
penses (about 20 marks per annum) of the Inns of Court. The first were called
apprenticii nohiliores, the latter apprenticii only. On the working days they applied
themselves to the study of law ; on the holydays to holy Scripture. They also learned
singing and all kinds of harmony, dancing, and other noblemen's pastimes. The
only punishment for misdeeds was expulsion (as is the case now), which was greatly
dreaded. They were famous for their revels and other gtueties.
In 1635, the four Inns of Court gave a grand masque to Charles I. and Queen
Henrietta-Maria at Whitehall.
Tiie Court of Star Chamber, however, took care of their morals by desiring the
principals of the Inns of Court and Chancery not to suffer the students to be out of
their houses after six o*clock at night, ** without very great and necessary causes, nor
to wear any kind of weapon ;" and the Court records prove the Star Chamber to have
committed to the Tower the Earl of Surrey, Sir Thomas Wyat, and young Rckering,
for breaking windows, and eating flesh in Lent.
In the reign of Philip and Hary It was ordained bv all the four Inns of Conrt, "that none except
knights and benchers ahoold wear in their doublets or nose any light colours, save scarlet andcrinuicii:
nor wear any upper velvet cap, or any scarf or wings in their gowns, white jerkins, buskins, or velvtl
shoes, double cuffs in their shirts, feathers or ribbons in their caps; and that none should wear their
study gowns in the City anv farther thui Fleet-bridge or Holbom-bridge ; nor, while in Commons, wear
Sponisn cloak, sword and buckler, or raider, or gowns and hats, or gowns girded with a dagger on the
baok."— Dagdsie's Origines JwridieiaU$,
INNS OF COURT AND CHANCERY. 461
The students in the reign of Henry YI. were : 4 Inns of Court, each 200 = 800;
10 Inns of Chancery, each 100 = 1000; total, 1800. In 1850 there were in the four
Inns of Court upwards of 4000.
On Ascension-day, or Holy Thursday, when the custom of heating the hounds of most
of the City and other parishes takes place by the children of the parish schools, beaded
by the clergy, parochial officers, and many inhabitants, the Temple and other Inns
of Court and extra-parochial places are riiut up and guarded, to prevent the pro*
cessions passing through, which might possibly affect the privileges of the different
places. The two Temples and Gray's Inn are extra-parochial, ue,, pay no poor-rates
and maintain their own poor ; but Lincoln's Inn has not entirely that exemption.
The Inni of Court are interesting to others besides lawyers, for they are the last working institutions
In the natnreof the old trade guilds. It is no longer necessary that a shoemaker should be approved by
the company of the oraft before he can apply himself to making shoes for his cnstomflrs, and a man may
keep an oyster-stall without being forced to serve an apprenuoeship and be admitted to the Livery of
the great Whig Company ; but the lawyers' guilds guard the entrance to the law, and prescribe the rules
nndor which it shall be practised. There are obvious adyautages in having some authority to govern
such a profession as the Biff, but it Is sufficiently remarkable that voluntary societies of banisters them-
■dres should have managed to engross and preserve It.'^TiwuB journal,
Thb Tbkflb lies between Fleet-street and the Thames, north and south; and
Whitefiriars and Essex-street, east and west; divided by Middle Temple-lane into the
Inner and Middle Temple, each having its hall, library, and garden, quadrangles,
oourts, Jbc Originally there was also the Outer Temple, comprising Essex House and
gardens : a portion of the old Water-gate remuns at the foot of Essex-street.
The andent hostels existed until 1346 (20th Edward III.), when the Knights
Hospitallers of St. John of Jerusalem (to whom the forfeited estates of the rival
brotherhood of the Templars had been gpnnted by the Pope) demised the magnificent
buildings, church, gardens, "and all the appurtenances that belonged to the Templars
in London," to certain students said to have removed thither Irom Thayies Inn, Hol-
bom, in which part of the town the Knights Templars themselves had resided before
the erection of their superb palaces on the Thames. In this New Temple, "out of the
City and the noise thereof, and in the suburbs," between the King's Court at West-
minster and the City of London, the studious lawyers lived in quiet, increanng in
number and importance ; so that, althongh the mob of Wat Tyler's rebellion plundered
the students, and destroyed almost all their books and records (" To the Inns of Court !
down with them all !"---Ja^^ Ceule), it became necessary to divide the Inn into two
separate bodies, the Hon. Societies of the Inner and Middle Temple; having separate
halls, but ufflng the same church, and holding their houses as tenants of the Knights
Hospitallers until the Dissolution by Henry VIII., and thenceforth of the Crown by
lease. In the sixth year of James I. the two Temples were granted by letters patent
to the then Chancellor of the Exchequer, the Recorder of London, and others, the
bankers and treasurers of the Inner and Middle Temple, which, by virtue of this
grant, are held to this day by an incorporated society of the " students and prnctisers
of the laws of England."
The Innss Tbmflb is entered from Fleet-street by a gateway, built 5th James I.,
beneath No. 17, Fleet-street, through Inner Temple-lane : at No. 1 lived Dr. Johnson
from 1760 to 1765. Upon the east side of the huie, the old chambers of Churchyard-
court have been taken down, and a noble stone-fronted structure erected in their
place; to this and the opposite new lines have been given the honoured names of
Johnton*s and Oold*mUh*9 Buildings. At the foot of the lane is the magnificent
western doorway of the church (described at pp. 205-207) ; and westward are the
cloisters, which were built by Wren after the fire of 1678, which fire Titus Oates
pretended to the Council was "a contrivance." Crown Ojffice-row, facing the garden,
has also been rebuilt with a handsome stone fa9ade. In the former row was the
birthplace of Charles Lamb.
" Some gentlemen of the Inner Temple would not endeavour to prcsefre the goods which were in the
lodgings of absent persons, nor suffer others to do it, * because,* they said, * it was against the law to
brnk up any man's chamber !' "—Lord Clarendon's Own Xt/<, p. 356.
Upon the broad terrace facing the garden are the Library (containing Bacon's
RUtory of the Alienation Office^ in MS.), and the Parliament Chamber in the Tudor
462 0UBI08ITIE8 OF LONDOK
style^ completed by Smirke, B.A. in 1835 ; adjoining is the Hall, bailt upon the ate of
a structure of the age of Edward III. Here are full-length portraits of Coke and
Littleton; and an emblematic Pegasus, by Sir James 'Dion^uU. Here dinner is
■erred to the members of the Inn daily during term-time; the masters of ihe bench
dining on the ttate or dais, and the barristers and students at long tables extending
down the hall to the carred screen at the western end. On grand days are present
the judg^ who dine in sucoesnon with each of the four Inns of Ck>urt.
** At the Inner Temple, on certain mndoccMions, it is cnMbofaatrj to pan huge nlver gobleCa (loving
enpe) down the table, filled with a oelidona oomposition, immemoriauir termed 'sack,' coosiatixig <»
sweetened and ezquiaitelT flavoared white wine : the bntler attends iti praneaa to z«pleniah it, and
each ftttdent ia restricted to a $ip. Tet it chanced not long since at the Temple, that, though tbB
number present fell short of serenty, thirtr-six quarts of the liquid were oonanmed 1" — (^ioHtHg
B$vU», 1836, No. 110.
The gentlemen of the Inner Temple were of old famed for their plays, masques^
revela, and other sumptuous entertdnments. Christmas, Halloween, Candlemas, and
Ascension-day, were anciently kept with great splendour in the Hall. In 1661 Charles
IL dined here, and was received with twenty violins, dinner bang senred by fifty
g^tlemen of the society in their gowns. Next year, the Duke of York and Prince
Bupcrt were admitted members. For these feasts, the master of the lerels arranged
the dancing and music; after the play, a barrister sang a Mong to the judges and
Serjeants ; and dancing was commenced by the judges and benchers round the sea-coal
fire. This dance is satirized in Buckingham's witty play of the Sehearsalj imd the
revels have been ridiculed by Dr. Donne in his Satires, and Prior in his Alma. Pope
in the Dunciad has :
*' The Judge to dance, his brother seijeant calls.**
Sir Christopher Hatton, wiUi four other studoits of the Inner Temple, wrote the plaj of Taaertd
and Gismumd, wfaieh, in 1668, was acted by that Society before the Queen. Sir Christopher wrote tlie
fourth act signed '* Comvotuit Ckr. Hatton :" it was flnt printed in 1592^ and there is a copy among the
Oarrlck Plojs in the British Museum.
The last rerot in any of the Inns of Court was that held Feb. 2, 1733, in the Inner Temple Hall, in
honour of Mr. Talbot, a bencher, having the Great Seal delivered to him. A large nlleiy built over the
screen was filled with ladies; and music in the little gallery at the upper end of the Hall played all
dinner-time. After dinner, began the play Love for Love, and the farce of The DeHl to Pcqf, by actors
fVom the Haymarket. After the play, the Lord Chancellor, the Masters. Judges, and Benchers retiT«d
into their Pwliament Chamber ; in half an hour they returned to the Hall, and led by the Master of the
Bevels, formed a rin^, and danced, or rather walked, roimd the fire-place, according to the old ceremony,
three times ; the ancient song, accompanied with music, being sung by one Tony Astou, droeed in a
bar-gown. This was followed by dancing, in which the ladies from the gallery joined ; then a collation
was served, and the company returned to dancing. The Prince of Wales was present.
Among the eminent members were Aadley, Lord Chancellor to Henry YIII.;
Nicholas Hare (who built Hare-court), Master of the BoUs to Queen Maiy; Littleton
and Coke (in the reign of James I. the Temple was nicknamed "my Lord Coke's
shop"); Sir Christopher Hatton, Selden, Heneage Findi, Judge Jefireys, and Sir
William Follett; and the poets Beaumont and Cowper. Speght's statement that
Chaucer studied here is much disputed. Among the Headers was '* the judioious
Hooker," of whom, in 1851, a memorial bust was placed at the south-west angle of the
choir of the Temple Church.
'* The view from the Temple (Hrdens, when, on the opposite side of the river, the
eye ranged over the green marshes and gradually rising grround to the Surrey hills, and
the rich oak and beech woods that clothed them, must have been beautiful." (Pearce's
Inns of Court.) The public are admitted to the Inner Temple Garden, about three acres,
on summer evenings from 6 to 9 : it is already described at p. 365. Towards its
south-eastern comer are the New Paper Buildings, of red brick and stone, erected
1848, by Sydney Smirke> A.R.A., with overhanging oriels and angle turrets, assimi-
lating to Continental examples of the Tudor style.
Thb Middle Tesifle, west of the lane, is entered from Fleet-street by a red-brick
and stone-fronted gate-house, built by Wren, in 1684^ " in the style of Inigo Jones, and
very far from inelegant " (Balph), It occupies the site of the gate-house erected by
Sir Amias Paulet, as a fine imposed by Wolsey, whose prisoner he was ; and which he
garnished with cardinal's hats and arms to appease "his old unkind displeasure."
Abutting on the garden is Middle Temple Hall, built 1562-72, in the treasurership of
Plowden, the jurist This Grand Ha\l is 100 feet long, 40 feet wide, and upwards of
INNS OF COURT AND CHANOEBY. 463
60 feet in height, and has a fine open timber roof; which omits the principal arched
rib, and multiplies the pendants and smaller curves ; it is very scientifically constrncted^
and contains a vast quantity of timber. There is also a Renaissance carved screen and
music-gallexy, dight with Elizabethan armour and weapons ; on the ade windows are
emblazoned the arms of eminent members, as also on the gpreat bay-windows, on the
dais or state ; ** besides the Queen's and the 3 Lyomi of England."
The fine colleodon of State pictures embraces the soverelgiiB fVoin Charles I. to George I. inclnsive.
Th6 most striking of these is the noble equestrian portrait or Charles I. bj Vandyck (one of the three
known to be by his hand), which has hong in the Middle Temple hall since 1684k when it was aoqoired
ij the Sode^. Charles II.'s portrait is reputed to be the work of Sir Godfirer Kneller : it represents
the ElTig In conmation robes, wearing the Garter : it is a grandly studied worlc, though the flesh tints
haredeepened ; the draperies are unrivalled, so finely are they oast and so hrilllantly coloured. The
portrait of Qoeen Anne was painted from life for the Society. It appears ftom their records that on the
27th of Norember. 1702, the benchers directed the treasurer *' to put up her Majesty's picture at the
west end of the hall over the bench, and to have it drawn by Mr. Dahl. unless the treasurer thinks fit to
make use of another hand." Dahl was a nstiye of Sweden, and a rival of Kneller. But the treasurer of
ue day selected a Scottish artist, Thomas Murray, for the work, who also painted the portrait of Eine
WUham III. Conningham says : *' the portraits are chiefly copies, and not good." Around the Hau
are imitative bronxe busts of the twelve Ccsaisj and on the oais, marble busts of Liffds Eldon and
BtoweU, by Behnes.
The oaken tables extend irom end to end : " they cut their meat on wooden trenchers^
and drink out of green earthen pots." (Ration, 1708.) Dugdale teUs us that " until
the second year of Queen Elizabeth's reig^, this Society did use to drink in cups of
aspen-wood (such as are stUl in use in the King's Court), but then those were laid aside^
and green earthen pots introduced, which have ever since been continued." Speci-
mens of these g^reen cups have been found in th6 Inner Temple, in Chray's Inn, and
Lincoln's Inn ; they hold half a pint, are tall, have a Up, and are surmised to have held
the portions assigrned to each student, who was also supplied with a drinking-horn.
The item "To Calyes'-head, Ac." in the old " battles" of thhe Middle Temple, refers to ancient timei^
when the chief cook of the Society gave every Easter Term a calves'-head bresikilut to the whole flra-
teraity, for which every gentleman paid at least one shilling. In the eleventh year of James I., how-
j>pointeato'
erery Easter Term. The price per head was regularly fixed, and to be paid by the whole Society, as well
ever, this breakftst was turned into a dinner, and appointed to be on the first and second Monday in
absent as present— a Ihct which will account for tiie appearance of the Item in the Trinity bills. The
ram thus collected, instead of belonging solely to the cooks, was divided among all the domestics
of the house (see Herbert's AntiqtiUi«$ qftkt Imu qf Court and Ckanemry),^B. BlundtU, F^^.
In this noble Hall was perfbrmed Shakspeare's TiDelJth Night, as recorded in the
table-book of John Manningham, a student of the Middle Temple : '* Feb. 2, 1601(2).
At our feast we had a play called 'Twelfth Night, or What you will.'"— "It is yet
pleasant to kndw that there is one locality remaining where a play of Shakspeare was
listened to by his contemporaries, and that play Twelfth NighV* (Charles Knight :
^ieUmcd Sdit, Shaktpeare,) The Middle Temple feasts were sumptuous : Evelyn
describes that of 1688 " so very extravagant and great, as the like had not been seen
at any lame ;'* he condemns the revels as " an old but riotous custom." Aubrey was
admitted 1646; here and at Trinity College, Oxford, he "enjoyed the greatest fehdty"
of bis life. Among his " Acddents" we find>— <* St. John's Night, 1673 : In danger of
being run through with a sword by a young templar, at Burges' chamber in the Middle
Temple.** (Britton's Memoir of Aubretf, pp. 14, 19.) Elias Ashmole was called to
the bar at the Middle Temple, in 1660 : he had chambers in Middle Temple Lane.
The Beader at the Middle Temple appomted for the Lent Season, 1861 (Dr. Pbilli-
more), inaugurated his election to the office by reading, in the ancient haU of the Inn»
A paper on "Minority and Minority in England and Abroad." The Beaders are
<!lected in rotation from the Benchers, and in the olden time their duty was to read
law twice m the year — ^viz., in Hilary and Trinity Terms ; but since the year 1680,
these public readings had been discontinued.
The New Library, built at the river end of Qarden-court, and upon additional ground
purchased at the cost of 13,000^., was commenced in August, 1858 ; H. B. Abraham,
architect. It b a beautiful edifice, in the collegiate style of the fifteenth century.
The lower portion is occupied by chambers ; the material is Bath stone. The Library,
which is a room of handsome proportions, 96 feet long, 42 wide, and 70 feet high,
^'^^pies the upper portion, and is approached by a winding staircase in an octagonal
^wer at the side. The roof, which reminds one of Westminster Hall, except that it
464 CURIOSITIES OF LONDON.
is two-centred, U of American pitch-pine — the first time this wood has been nsed for
the purpose in England. Tlie floor is of Portland stone, in panels, with Portland
cement in the centre compartments. There is a stained glass window at each end : the
oriel at the south is illuminated with the arms of the Royal Princes, from the time of
Bichard CcBur de Lion down to the present Prince of Wales ; and the window at the
north represents the shields of all who liave been Benchers during the time of its
erection. There are five windows at each side, which cast a <tim studioift light through
silvered glass. Over the door is fitly hung the portrait of the founder of the Librar^%
Robert Ashley. The Library was opened with duo ceremony, October 30, 1861, by the
Prince of Wales, his Royal Highness having previously been enrolled a Member of the
Middle Temple, in form as follows :
The Maiiter Treanirer moved, and the Lord Chsncellor teoonded, first, "that his Royal Higfane^
be idmitted a member of the Middle Temple;*' and next, ** that .his Koral Hijrhness be called to the
degree of the outer Bar, and that the oath, on publication of the Call, be dispensed with." There beiofr
no opposition, both motions were carried unaiiimouslr, and the Prince was invee ted with the Bar gown
and subscribed the Call-book. The next motion, also by the Trcasurfr, and seconded bj the Lord
Chancellor, was *' that his Royal Highness be UiTited to the BendL** This motion was also amcd to,
and the Prince assumed the lleneher's gown, and took his seat aa a Master of the Bench, at the rifrhc
hand of the Trea.^urer. The new Master next moved **that the Parliament do adjourn, and pxuoeed to
open the Library."
The event was commemorated by a sumptuous dSje^ner and an evening file to
nearly 1000 guests. The portnut of the Prince of Wales has been paintod fur the
Society ; and His Royal Highness's bust has been placed in the Library.
There formerly stood in a plot of ground which has since been purchased by the Society of the
Middle Temple, a Turkish (turban) tombstone, which wasplaoed in the earth near a slab !n the wall
which marked the boundary of the Duchy of Lancaster. The stone is thought to hare been abstracted
fVom some Turkish cemetery, brought to England, perhaps as ballast, and thus placed as a coiiiMBity m
the little garden. A paper was written ooncemixig this stone by W. H. Marley : it has disappeared.—
X0U9 cmdQimitB, Srd s. ix. 109.
Among the eminent members of the Middle Temple were Plowden, the jurist ; Sir
Walter Raleigh; Sir Thomas Overbury; John Ford, the dramatist; Sir Edward
Bramston, who had for his chamber-fellow Mr. Edward Hyde (afterwards Lord Chan-
.oellor Clarendon) ; Bulstrode Whitelocke ; Lord Keeper Guildford ; Lord Chancellor
Somers ; Wycherley and Congreve ; Shadwell and Southeme; Sir William Blackstone;
Dunning, Lord Ashburton ; Lord Chancellor Eldon and Lord Stowell ; Edmund
Burke ; Richard Brinsley Sheridan ; and the poets Cowper and Moore. Oliver Gold-
smith had chambers in Brick-court, at the window of which he loved to sit and watch
the rooks in Middle Temple Garden; Goldsmith died hereon the 4th of April, 1774^ in
his 46th year; his rooms were at No. 2, second floor, over the chambers of Blackstone,
who was then finishing the fourth volume of his Comfftentaries,
Middle Temple Garden is well kept, and has an air of sedtision ; here is a caialpa
tjfringifoUa, related to have been planted by Sir Matthew Hale. The Fountain in the
adjoining Court is described at pp. 356-7.
Sun-diaU.— There remain three dials, with mottoes : Temple-lane, "Pereantet imputantur :" Essei-
court, *' Vestigia nulla retrorsum ;" Brick-court, *' Time and tide tany for no man :" in Pump-ooart und
Oarden-court are two dials without mottoes; and in each Temple Garden is a pillar dial, dated ITT^i;
that in Middle Temple is elaborately gilt Upon the old brick house at the east end of Inner Tcmpl«-
terrace, removed in 1828, was another dial, wiUi this quaint inscription : " Begone about your boainess."
In Middle Temple-lane are some of the oldest chambers in the Temple, and within
the gate are shops. It was between the Temple Gate and the Bar that, in 1583,
Francis Bacon stood among his brother barristers to welcome Queen Elizabeth into the
City. And in one of the shops within the Gate lived Benj. Motte, the publisher of the
works of Pope and Swift ; his imprint being " at the Middle Temple Gate.''
Lincoln's Ikn, on the west side of Chancery-lane, occupies the site of the palace of
Ralph Neville, Bishop of Chichester, and Lord High Chancellor to Henry III. ; nnd
of the ancient monastery of Black Friars in Holborn, granted to Henry de Lacy, Earl
of Lincoln, who built thereon his town-house or inn : soon after whose death, in 1312,
it became an Inn of Court, named from liim Lincoln's Inn ; when also the greater part
of the estate of the sec of Chichester was leased to students of the law. The Earl of
Lincoln's garden, with a pond or vivary for pike, is noticed at p. 865.
INNS OF COURT— LINCOLN'S INN. 465
The predncts of Lincoln's Inn oompriae the old buildings, about 600 feet frontage
in Chancery-lane, erected between the reigns of Henry VII. and James I. The Gate-
honae, a fine spedmen of Tudor brickwork, was built mostly at the expense of Sir
Thomas Lovell, "double reader" and treasurer of the Society. The entrance is an
obtnsely-pointed arch, originally vaulted, between two four-storied square towers. The
bricks and tiles used in the Gatehouse and Hall were made from clay dug from a piece
of ground on the west side of the Inn, and called the Coneygarth, " well stocked with
rabbiU and gam&"
Orer the Oatehonse arch are pdnted and gilt the royal anna of King Henry VIII. within the garter
and crowned, having <m the dexter aide the arma of Heniy Lacy, Earl of Lincohi ; and on the amiater
aide the anna and quarteringa of Sir Thomaa LoYeU, &.Q. ; beneath, on a riband, 9[nno IBoUI.
1518. Lower down ia a tablet denoting an early repair, inacribed : ** Inaignia hoc reflscta et decorata
Johanna Hawlea Armig. Solicitat General. Thesaorario 1696." The originiu doora of oak, put up 6 Elia.
ISM, atill remain. In the ooort on the west is the ancient Hall (the oldeat atmoture in the Inn), and the
old kitchen, now chambera ; on the north ia the Chapel (described at p. 813) ; and in the centre are the
two Vioe-ChanceUora' Cooita, bnUt 1841.— SpiUborfa laneoMt Itm,
This and the three other courts of chambers were chiefly built temp, James I. At
No. IS, from 1645 to 1650, lived John Thurloe, Secretary of Oliver Cromwell. In
these chambers, it is said, was discussed early in 1649, by Cromwell and Thurloe, Sir
Richard Willis's plot for seizing Cliarles II. ; in the same room sat Thurloe's assistant,
young Morland, at his desk, apparently asleep, and whom Cromwell would have
dispatched with his sword, had not Thurloe assured him that Morland had sat up two
nights, and was certainly fast asleep : he, however, divulged the plot to the king, and
thus saved Charles's life. This narrative is given by Birch in his Life of Thurloe^
but rests upon questionable evidence. Here was discovered in the reign of William III.
a collection of papers, concealed in a false ceiling of the apartment : they form the
principal part of Dr. Birch's Thurloe State Papers, There is a tradition that Cromwell
had chambers in or near the Gratehouse, but his name is not in the registers of the
Sodety : his son Bichard was admitted a student 23 Charles L
8it»diaU.—Oa two of the old gables are. 1. A sonthem dial, reatored in 1840, which ahowa the houra
by its gnomon flrom 6 a.x. to 4 r.u.. and ia inscribed " Ex hoc momento pendet etemitas." 2. A western
dial, restored in 17H the Right Hon. William Pitt, Treasurer, and again restored in 1848, from the
different situation of ita plane, only shows the hours ftom noon till mght: inscription, "Qua redi^
neecitls horam."
The Old Hall, rebuilt 22 Henry VII., 1506, occupies the site of the original Hall,
and has a louvre on the roof, date 1552, and an embattled parapet ; opposite the
entrance, at the south end, is the old kitchen. The "goodly hall" is about 71 feet in
length and 82 in breadth ; height about equal to the breadth. It has on each ude
three large three-light windows, with arched and cusped heads ; and a great oriel^
transomed, with arched head and cusps : at each end the room was lengthened ten feet
in 1819, when the open oak roof was removed, and the present incongruous coved
plaster ceiling substituted. At the lower end is a masave screen, erected in 1665,
grotesquely carved, and emblazoned with the full achievements of King Charles II.,
James Duke of York, Priuce Rupert, the Earl of Manchester, Lord Henry Howard, and
Lord Newport, date Feb. 29, 1671 : at the end of the Hall, in panels, are the arms of ,
distinguished members of the Society, including Lords Mansfield, Loughborough, Ellen-
borough, Brougham, Ac On the dais is the seat of the Lord Chancellor. The com*
mone of the Society were held here until the building of the New Hall.
Among the earliest ^sttnguished members of Lincoln's Inn were. Sir John Fortescne,
temp, Henry VL; Sir Thomas More, who removed here fh>mNew Inn;* Lambard and
Spelman, the antiquaries; the learned John Selden; Noy, Attorney-General to Charles I. ;
Lenthall, the Cromwellian Speaker ; and the great Lord Chancellor Egerton.
In this andent Hall were held all the revela of the Sodet?, their masquea and Christmaainga ; when
the benchers laid aaide their dignity, and dancing waa ei^omed for the students, aa condudve * to the
* "After a carefbl oomparlson of the fiusts and datea connected with both John Morea, the onlT rea-
aonable eondnsion that can be formed seems to be that John More, first the butler, afterwaros the
steward, and finally the reader, of Lincoln's Inn, waa the Chancellor's grand&ther ; and that John
More, Junior, who was also at one time the butler there, waa the Chanodlor's Ikther and aftenrarda the
Judge. Not only do«>s this descent suit predi^ly the ' non celebri sed honest4natua' in Sir Thomas More'a
epitaph, but it explains the silence of his biographers, and accounts for the Judge and the Chancellor
attending the readings of a society with which their ftmily had been so doady connected."— JEtfaMrtf
Ibt$tFjLLt JreltfoitoyMi, vol zzxv. p. 33.
466 OUBIOaiTIEB OF LONDON.
naUnprof gmtlnMD more fit forthdr booki at other tlmei*' (Dogdale^e Orimmn) ; aadbj an otrder 7lh
of James L ** the nnder-barristen were, by dedmatum, pat oat of oommona, for example'a aalo^ beeaDoae
they had not daaoed on the Candlonaa-day preoedhiff, when the jodgea were present.*' Of Cnriatmai^
1661, Pepys writea : " The King (Charlea II.) Tisitea Linooln'a Inn to see the rerela there; there beings
according to an old costome, a pcinoe and all his nobles, and other matters of sport and charge.** Here
were preaentk Clarendon, Ormond, and Bhafteaboxy, at the rerds of Hale ; Ley, and Denham the poet;
and the gloomj Prynne standing by. At these entertainments the Hall oapboard waa set oat wiUi
iSt» Sode^s oiden plate, which uiclades sUver baains and ewers, direr onpa and cototb^ a 8ilf«r ooI]ege<
pot for fesuYsla, and a large dlTCr pnnch-bowl with two handlea.
In 1671 Charlea II. made a aecondTislt, with his brother the Doke of Tork, Prince Bopert, and the
Dake of Honmonth, who were entertained in the Hall, and admitted members of the Sodaty, and
entered their namea in the admittanoo-book, which contains also the dgnatoies of all members from the
tdgn of Elizabeth to the preaent time. Sir Matthew Hale altered here stodent in 1629: he beqoeathed
a laroe collection of MBS. to the Library.
Not many years ago it was the custom at*L!nooln's Inn Ibr one of the servants, attired in his usaal
tobes, to go to the threahold of the oater door about twelve or one o'dook, and exclaim three timei^
** FtfMs 9Mutgmr /" when ndther bread nor salt waa upon the table.
New Square^ aoathward of the ancient buildings, was completed in 1697, by Mr.
Henry Series a bencher of the Inn : in the centre was formerly a Corinthian colnmn,
with a yertacal snn-dial ; and at the base were four Triton jH$ d'eau : the are* waa
enclosed and planted in 1845. In the reign of Charles II. this was open groond,
known as ]^ttle Lincoln's Inn Fields, or Fickett's Fields : it is not part of the Inn.
The Stone Buildings, at the north-east extremity of the Inn, were dedgned by Sir
Bobert Taylor, and completed by Hardwick, in 1846 : the architecture is beautiful
Corinthian. This is only part of a design, in 1780, for rebuilding the whole Inn.
" The working drawings were made by a yoong man of the niune of Leedi, ttien a derk in Taylor's
office, who afterwards became a student of Linooln's Inn, and died filling the high and locrative office
in the law of Master of the Bolls. Leech's drawings are preserved in the library of Lincoln's Inn.—
Cnnningham's Sarndbook, p. 473.
The garden was enlarged, and the terrace-walk on the west was made^ in 1663 :-^
"To Lincoln's Inn, to see the new garden which they are making, whidi will be tccj pret^,— end
to the walk under the chapel by agreement."— Pepys's Hiaty.
Into Lincoln's Inn walks Isaac Bickerstaff sometimes went instead of the taTcni (Tailtr.Vo, 18);
and a solitary walk in the garden of Lincoln's Inn was a &voar indulged in Br several of the Dencher^
Isaac's intimate IHenda, and grown old with him in this neighbourhood {Tatter, No. 100).
The rained gamester {TtdUr, No. IS) in the morning borrows half-apcrown of tiie nuid who deans
his shoes, *' and is now gaming in Liucoln's-inn Fields among the boys fbr ftrthings and oranges^ until
he haa made up three pieces ; and then he returns to White's^ into the best company in town."
The Gardens were much curtailed by the building of the New Hall and Library;
when disappeared " the walks under the elms^" cdebrated by Ben Jonson. Amoi:^
the officers of the Sodety is a "Master of the Walks." (See Gabdbns» p. 365.)
And, in 1662, was revived the ancient custom of electing a Lord-Lieutenant^ and Prince
of the Orange.
On the western nde of the garden, almost on the rate of the Coneygarth, are the
New SaU and lAbrofy, a picturesque group, finely situated for architectural effect, in
the late Tudor style (temp, Henry VIII.), having a corresponding entrance-gate frcm.
Lincoln's-inn-fields; architect, Philip Hurdwick, R.A. The foundation-stone was laid
April 20, 1843 : the hall is arranged north and sooth, and the library east and west;
the two buildings being connected by a vestibule, flanked by a drawing-room and
council-room. The materials are red bricks, intersected with black bricks in patterns^
and stone dressings. The south end has a lofty gable, inscribed, in dark bricks^ '* P. H."
(Philip Hardwick), and the date 1843 ; flanked on each side by a square tower, battle-
mented ; beneath are shields, charged with lions and milrines, the badges of the Society :
between the towers is the great window of the Hall, of seven lights, transomed, and the
four-central arch filled with beautiful tracery. On the apex of the gable, beneath a
canopied pinnacle, is a statue of Queen Victoria ; Thomas, sculptor. The aide buttresses
are surmounted by octagonal pinnacles. The roof is leaded, and in its centre is an
elegant louvre, surrounded by slender pinnacles bearing vanes ; the capping has crockets
and gargoyles, and is surmounted by a vane with direction-points in gilded metal- work—
the whole very tasteful. The entrance to the Hall is at the south-east tower, by a
double flight of steps to the porch, above which are the arms of the Inn* Above is the
dock, of novel and beautiful design, with an enriched pedimental canopy in mctul-
work.
The central building, the entrance to the Library and Great Hall, has end orieb,
and an octagonal embattled crown or lantern, filled with painted glassy and reminding
INNS OF COURT-LINCOLN 8 INN. 467
one of the octagon of Ely Cathednd. From the esplanade is the entrance by flights of
steps to a porch, the gable bearing the lion of the Earl of Lincoln holding a banner)
and at the apex of the great gable of the library roof is a drcular shaft, sarmoonted
by an heraldic animal supporting a staff and banner. The Library has large end
oriels, of beantifdl design, and five bay-windows on the north side ; the lights being
separated by stone compartments, each boldly scalptnred with heraldic achievements
of King Charles II., James Duke of York, K.G., Queen Victoria, Prince Albert, K.G.
(all visitors of the Society), and Albert Edward Prince of Wales. The buttresses
dividing the bays are terminated by pillars, surmounted by heraldic animals. At the
north-west angle of this front is an octagonal bell-turret. On the western front
towards I^oohi's-inn Fields, the clustered chimneys have a beaufifnl effect : they are
of moulded red brick, resembling those at Eton College and Hampton Court Palace.
The bosses, gurgoyles, and armorial, grotesque^ and foliated ornaments throughout the
building are finely sculptured.
Entering by the southern tower, the corridor is arranged on the plan of the college
halls of the Universities, and has a buttery-hatch, and stairs leading to the vaulted
kitchen, 46 feet square and 25 feet high, with one of the largest fire-places in England;
adjoining are cellars for one hundred pipes of wine.
From the corridor, through a carved oak screen, yon enter the Hall : length, 120
feet ; width, 45 feet ; height to the apex of roof, 62 fret In size it exceeds the ludls
of the Middle Temple, Hampton Court Palace, and Christ-church, Oxford ; but is ex-
ceeded in length by the hall of Christ's Hospital, which is 187 feet. The upper part
of the screen serves as the front of the gallery, between the arches of which, upon
pedestals, in canopied niches, are costumed life-ase figures of these eminent members of
the Sodety : Lord Chief- Justice Sur Matthew Hale; Archlushop IHllotson, one of the
preachers of Linooln's-inn; Lord Chief- Justice l^bmsfield; JJmd Chancellor Hard-
wieke; Bishop Warburton, one of the preachers; and Sir "^niliam Grant» Master of
the Rolls. The sides of the Hall are panelled with oak, and the cornice is enriched
with gilding and colour. The five large stained-glass windows on either ude contain,
in the upper lights, the arms, crests, and mottoes of distinguished members of the
Society, chronologically arranged, from 1450 to 1848; and the lower divisions are
diaperod with the initials " L. I." and the milrine. Above the windows is a cornice
enriched with colour and gilding.
The roof is wholly of oiak, and is divided into seven compartments by trusses, each
large arch springing from stone corbels, and having two carved pendants (as in Wolsey's
Hidl at Hampton Court), at the termination <^ an inner arch, that springs from
hammer-beams projecting from the walls. These pendants aro Uluminated blue and
red, and gilt, and they each carry a chandelier to correspond. Between the wall
trusses is a maehicolated cornice, panelled and coloured.
Here is a nobly-designed fresco by G. F. Watts—" The Origin of Legislation."
This great work was the gift of Mr. Watts, the artist ; commenced in 1854^ but soon
after discontinued through illness^ and not renewed till 1857 — fixuahed Oct. 1859.
On April 26, 1800, Mr. WatU wm entortained in the Hall— an honour before conferred on no painter
except Hogarth, who dined there In 1760— was preaented by this Society with a lilTer-gilt cup, value 1602.,
and pnrae of 60CH. ; the tetttmonial being ** not in the chanMster of compensation, bat as a testimony of
the fiiendly feelingr of the Society for the man who had sdeoted it as the recipient of so valued a gifk^
and of its appreduion of his genins as an artist.**
On the northern wall, above the dais panelling, is the picture of Paul before Felix,
painted in 1750 by Hogarth, and removed from a similar position in the Old HalL
The compodtion is good ; but the conception of character commonplace.
Br the will of Lord Wyndham, Baron of Finglass, and Lord High Chancellor of Ireland, the som
of 20w. was beoueathed to the Societr, to be expended in adorning the Chapel or Hall, as the bendiers
shoold think fit. At the recommendation of Lord Mansfield, Hogarth was engaged to paint the plo-
tare^ which was at first designed for the chapel.— Spilsbory's Unecln't Jmi, p. 109.
At the opposite end of the Hall is a noble marble statue, by Westmacott, of Lord
Erskine, Chancellor in 1806.
On either side of the dais, in the oriel, is a sideboard for the upper or benchenf
table ; the other tables, ranged in gradation, two crosswise and five along the hall, are
tor the barristers and students^ who dine here every day during term : the average
H S 2
468 CURIOSITIES OF LONDON.
number is 200 ; and of thoee who dine on one day or other dnring the term, « keeping
oommonSk" is about SOO.
The wattem oriel window contalni, in the upper Hfrht, the armorial hearings of Balph Nerille, Biahop
of Chicbeater: Henry Lacj. Earl of Lincoln: William de HaTerhrll, Treaaorer to King Henry III.,
Edward Solyard, Eaq^ by whom the inheritance of the premiiea of Lincohi'a Inn waa transferred to the
Society in 1680 : whoae anna are alao here— motto : ** Longa profeaaio eat pacis joa." In the middle of
the window are the anna of King Charleall. within the ftmrter, and aormoimted by the crown, with the
tnpportera and motto ; alao the arma of James Dake of York and of Prince Rnpert. On the other aide,
the qoarrela of the whole windowa are diapered, like the other windowa of the hall, with the mflzine
and L. I. The oriel window, on the eaatem aide, oontaina all the stained glaaa removed from the old
hall, conaiating of the armorial inaignia of noblemen, leoal dianitaries, Ac. All the heraldic decora*
tiona. with the exception of the eaatem oriel, are by Mr. Willement.— Spilabury'a Idneoln'i Iim,
pp. 104-^.
From the dais of the Hall large folding-doors open into the yestibole, east of which
is the Council-chamber ; and west, the Drawing-room : the stone chimney-pieoes are
finely sculptured. In the Drawing-room are portraits of Justice Glanville^ 1598 ; Sir
John Granville, Speaker of the House of Commons, 1640; Sir Matthew Hale, IGTl,
by M. Wright (acquired by the Society, with his coUection of MSS.) ; Sir Bidiard
Bainsford, Lord Chief-Justice K.B., 1676. by Gerard Soest ; Lord Chancellor Hard-
wicke^ 1737, after Ramsay ; Lord Chancellor Bathurst, 177X» by Sir N. Danoe ; 1^
John Skynner, Lord Chief Baron, 1771, by Gwnsborongh ; Sir William Grants Master
of the BoUs, by Harlow; Francis Hargreave, Treasurer in. 1813, by Sir Joshua Bey-
ndlds; and Sir H, Haddington, Speaker of the House of Commons.
In the Council-room is a portrait of Sir John Franklin, of Mavoum, Beds^ Knight*
a master in chancery thirty-three years; ob. 1707. Here are also several copies from
the old masters ; and a Lady with a Guitar, by William Etty, R.A. The walls of both
Council and Drawing-rooms are also hung with a valuable collection of engraved por-
traits of legal dignitaries, eminent prelates, &c.
The Library, 80 feet long, 40 feet wide, and 44 feet high, has an open oak roof, of
much originality. The projecting book-cases form separate apartments for study, and
have an iron balcony running round them about midway, and another gallery over
them against each wall. Each of the oriel windows displays arms of the present
benchers ; as also the five northern windows, except the lower lights of the central one,
which are filled with the arms of Queen Victoria, of briUiuit colour and broad
treatment. The glass of the windows conasts of small circular panes, termed beryl
glazing, of remarkable brilliancy.
The Society's valuable collection of MSS., 'mostly bequeathed by Sir Matthew Hale;
are deposited in two rooms opening from the Library. The books and MSS. exceed
26,000 : the collection of law-books is the most complete in this country, and here are
many important works on history and antiquities. The Library, founded in 1497, is
older than any now existing in the metropolis; and many of the volumes still retain
iron rings, by which they were secured by rods to the shelves. The early Year-books
are chiefly in their original oak binding; and four of them belonged to WiUiam
Bastell, nephew of Sir Thomas More. Among the other rarities are, Le Mirror a
Justices, per Andrew Home, in a hand of the reign of James I. ; FlacUa of the whole
reign of Edward II. on vellum, written in the fourteenth century; two volumes of
Statutes on vellum, Edward III. and Henry V. ; a MS. Tear-book, Edward III. ; the
fourth volume of Prynne's Beeords, bought for 336^. by the Society at the Stowe sale,
in 1849 (it was published in the year of the Great Fire, when most of the copies were
burnt) ; several MSS. in the handwriting of Sir Matthew Hale, Archbishop Usher,
and the learned Selden ; a beautiful copy of the works of King Charles I., which had
belonged to King Charles II. ; Baron Maseres's copy of his Scriptores Logarithmici^
six vols. 4to; Charles Butler's fine copy of TracUUins Universi Juris, with index,
twenty-eight vols, folio, &c {See Spilsbury's Lincoln's Inn, spedally devoted to the
Library ; to which carefully-written work we are much indebted.)
The New Hall and Library were inaugurated October 30, 1845, by Queen Victoria
and Prince Albert, when Her Majesty held a levee in the Library, at which the
Treasurer of the Inn, J. A. F. Simpkinson, was knighted; the Prince became a
member of the Sodety, and with the Queen signed his name in the Admittance-book.
Her Majesty and Prince Albert then partook of an early banquet in the Great Hall ;
this being the first visit of a sovereign to the Inn for nearly two centuries.
INNS OF COURT— GBAT'8 INN. 469
I«inco1n'8 Inn is exempted from poor-rates as extra-parochiaL The ground on which
the "New Hall is boilt belonged, at the time of building, to the parish of St. Giles in
the Fields; bat was, by agreement, subsequently severed firom that parish, and
annexed to the Till or township of Lincoln's Inn, the Society paying annually a com-
pensation to the parish for the rates.
The Old-buildings are continued to New-square, where may be noted some vine and
fig trees. There are some very old houses and shops near the Carey-street gate : some
shops are stuck up against the main building : these in former days had been book-stalls.
At Lincoln's Inn and at Gray's Inn the Curfew-bell is rung every night at nine
o^clock ; though, in this respect, the societies do not stand alone, for curfew-ringing is a
practice still preserved in many towns scattered about England.
Gray's Ink, 'on the north ade of Holbom, and west of Gra/s-Inn-lane, appears to
have been *' a goodly house nnce Edward III.'s time." {Siow.) It was originally the
residence of the noble family of Grey of Wilton, who, in 1505, sold to Hugh Denny,
£sq.x " the manor of Portpoole (one of the prebends belonging to -St. Paul's Cathedral),
otherwise called Gray's Inn, four messuages, four gardens, the site of a windmill, eight
acres of land, ten shillings of free rent, and the advowson of the chantry of Portpoole."
The manor was next sold to the prior and convent of East Sheen, in Surrey, who
leased "the mansion of Portpoole" to "certain students of the law," at the annual
rent of 61. IZs. 4d, ; and after the Dissolution by Henry YIII. the benchers of Gray's
Inn were entered in the King's books as the fee-farm tenants of the Crown, at the same
rent as paid to the monks of Sheen.
The principal entrance to Gray's Inn is from Holbom, by a gateway erected 1592,
a good specimen of early brickwork, leading to South-square (formerly Holborn-court),
separated by the hall, chapel, and library from Ghray's-inn-square. Westward is
Field-court, with a gate, now blocJced up, to Fulwood's Bents (see p. 363) ; and
.opposite is the lofty gate of the gardens; Verulam-buildings east; Baymond-buildings
west ; the northern boundary-waU being in King's-road. The old name of Gray's-inn-
aquare was Comer-court, an evident relic of the Manor of Portpoole.
The Hall was completed in 1560. It has an open oak roof, divided into seven bays
by Gothic arched ribs, the spandrels and pendants richly carved ; in the centre is an
open louvre, pinnacled externally. The interior is wainscoted, and has an oaken screen,
decorated with Tuscan columns, caryatides, &c The windows are richly emblazoned
with arms. The men of Gray's Inn had their masques and revels, and were " prac-
tisers" of gorgeous interludes and plenteous Christmasings : a comedy acted here
Christmas^ 1527, written by John Roos, a student of the Inn, and afterwards seijeant-
at-law, so offended Wolsey, that its author was degraded and imprisoned. Adjoining
is the Chapel, probably on the site of the " chantry of Portpoole," wherein masses
were daily sung for the soul of John, the son of Reginald de Gray, for which lands
were granted to the prior and convent of St. Bartholomew, Smlthfield : at their ex-
pense divine service was subsequently performed here on behalf of the Society ; and
after the Dissolution, the chaplain's salary was paid out of the Aug^mentation Court.
At the Reformation, the Popish utensils, with a pair of organs, were sold, but were
restored by Mary ; and by command of Henry YIII. was taken out a window, " wherein
the image of St. Thomas h Becket was gloriously painted." Richard Sibbs, author of
The Bruised Seed, was one of the preachers.
Ix 29 Elizabeth, for the better relief of the poor in Qray's-iiiii-lane^ alms were distributed thrice by
the week at Gray's Inn gate. •
James 1. signified bj the Jadges that none bat aeniUvun qfd«»eerU shonld be admitted of Gray's Tnn.
The Headers bad liberal allowances of wine and venison; vit. viiic^. was paid lor each niesii; C)ri;s
and green sauce were the breakfast on Lenten-days ; and beer did not exceed 6«. per barrel. C^ps
were compulaorily worn at dinner and supper ; and hata, boots, and spars, and standing with the bouk
to the fire, ia the hail, were forbidden ander penalty. Dice and cards were only allowed at Christmas.
Lodging double was customary in the old inn ; and at a pension, 9 July, 21 Henry VIII., Sir Thomas
Ncviie accepted Mr. Attoraev-General (Sir Christopher Hales) to be his bedfellow in his chamber here.
Gray's Inn has l)eea notea for its exerciaes, called by Stow ** Boltas Mootes, and putting of cases.**
Bailey defines "Bolting (in Gray's Inn), a kind of exercise, or arguing cases among the students." (DUt.,
8rd edit. 17S7.) " Bolting Ih a term of art used in Gray's Inn, and applied to the bolting or arguing of
^ioot eases" (Cowell's Law Diet.) ; and he argues the bolting of eases to be analogous to tbe bouUing
or sUUng of meal through a bag. Judge Uale has " beats and bolts out the tmth.'^ Danby Pickermg,
£sq., of Gray's fnn, was the last who Toiuntarily resumed these mootings.
Tbe Garden (Qray's-inn-walks) was first planted about 1600, when Mr. Francis
470 CURIOSITIES OF LONDON.
Bacon, after Lord Yeralam, was treasiirer. {See QiiBDBirs, p. 366.) Howell, in a letter
from Venioe, June 6, 1621, apeaka of Qray's-inn-walks aa the pleasanteat place aboat
London, vrith the choicest sodety ; and they were in high fashion as a promenade and
place of assignation in Charles ll.'s time, when from Bacon's snmmer-hoose, on a
moant, there was a charming view towards Higbgate and Hampstead. The Qarden
was formerly open to the public, like those of the Inner Temple and Lincoln's Inn.
Hall the chronicler, and Qascdgne the poet, studied at Gray's Inn : Gfascoigne and
his fellow-stndent Kinwelmersh translated the Joctuta of Euripdes, which was
acted in Gray's-inn-hall 1566. Bradshaw, president at the trial of Charles I., was a
bencher. Sir Thomas Holt was treasurer of Gray's Inn ; and his son. Lord Chief*
Justice Holt, was entered upon the Society's books before he was ten years old : he is
Verus the magistrate, in the TeUler, No. 14.
Lord Burghley entered at Gray's Inn in 1541, and made genealogy his spedal
study. Sir Nicholas Bacon kept his terms here, was called to the bar of the Society,
and was elected Treasurer 1552; and his son Francis, Lord Verulam, was admitted
here, and made an ancient in 1576 : here he sketched his great work the Organum^
though law was his principal study. In 1582, he was called to the Bar ; in 1586,
made a Bencher; in 1588, appointed Reader to the Inn ; and in 1600, the Lent doable
Reader : in the intenral he wrote his Essays, dedicated " from my chamber at Graie's
Inn, this 80 of Januarie, 1597." In 1583, he stood among the barristers at Temple
Bar to welcome Queen Elizabeth into the City. Bacon had chambers in Gray's Inn
when Lord Chancellor ; and here he received the suitors' bribes, by which his name
became tarnished with infamy. After his downfall and distress, when he had parted
with York House, he resided, during his visits to London, at his old chambers in
Gray's Inn ; whence, in 1626, on a severe day, he went in his coach to Higbgate, took
cold in stuffing a fowl with snow as an anti-putrescent, became too ill to return to
Gray's Inn, and was carried to the Earl of Arundel's house at Higbgate, where he died
within a week. Bacon is traditionally sud to have lived in the large house facing
Gray's Inn garden-gates, where Fulke Greville, Lord Brooke, frequently sent him
home*brewedbeer fiiom his house in Holbom. Basil Montagu,* however, fixes Bacon's
chambers on the site of No. 1, Gray's-inn-square, first floor ; the house was burnt
Feb. 17, 1679, with 60 other chambers. {Historian's Chuide, 8rd edit. 1688.) Lord
Campbell speculatively states that Bacon's chambers ** remidn in the same state as when
he occupied them, and are stUl visited by those who worship his memory." (Lives of
the Lord Chancellors, yo\, ii. p. 274.) The association with Bacon is recorded in
*' Verulam-buildings."
David Jones, the patriotic Welsh judge, temp, Charles I., was of Gray's Inn;
Romilly was also a member ; and Southey was entered here on leaving Oxford. The
students were formerly often refractory. Pepys writes in May, 1667 : " Great talk of
how the Barristers and Students of Gray's Inn rose in rebellion against the Benchers
the other day, who outlawed them, and a great deal to do ; now they are at peace again."
Within Gray's-inn-gate, next Gray's-inn-lane, lived Jacob Tonson, who published
here Dryden's Spanish IHar, 1681, said to be the first work published by the Tonsons :
Jacob was the second son of a barber-chirurgeon in Holbom. At Gray's-inn-gate^ also,
lived Thomas Osborne, the bookseller, who gave 13,0002. for the hooks from the Har-
leian Library, for the binding of a portion of which Lord Oxford is stated by Dibdin
to have paid 18,0002.
The Chray's Inn Journal, in the style of the Spectator, was started by Arthur
Murphy, in 1752, and continued weekly two years. Murphy studied the law, was
refused admission to the Societies of the Temple and of Gray's Inn because he had
been an actor as well as author, but was admitted of Lincoln's Inn. He was of a
high family. He died a Commisnoner of Bankruptst, 1805. Clergymen are admitted
to Inns of Court and to the Bar, though they were not so until very lately.
In Gray's Inn lived Dr. Rawlinson ("Tom Folio" of the Tatler, No. 158), who
stufied four chambers so full with books, that he slept in the passage. In Holbom-
* Mr. MonUffu, who died in 1862, possessed a glass and silver-handled fork, with a shiflixig olfer
nK)on-bowl, which once belonged to Lord Verulam, whose crest, a boar, modelled in gold, sonnoanta
the fork'handle.
nmS OF CHANCEBT. 471
ooart (now South-sqaare) were the chamben of Joseph Rltson^ the literary antiqaary
and rig^d Pythagorean : the site is now oocapied by the libraries, between tiie ball and
chapel, built by Wigg and Pownall in 1841 ; style, elegant Italian.
AdmisHoH to the Innt, and CaU to <t« Bar.-'The four Iniu of Ck>iirt, viz. the two Temples, Lfscoln's
Inn, and Grar's Inn, have exolosiTely (through their board of Benchers, luiiaUT their Queen's Counsel)
the power of conferrinff the desree of Banister-at-Law, requisite for practising as an advocate or
conxisel in the Superior Courts. Lincoln's Inn is gwierally preferred for students who contemplate tiia
Equity Bar ; it being the locality of Equity Counsel and Conveyancers, and of Equity Courts or Courts
€i Chanoexy. If tiie student design to practise the common law, either immediatelv as an advocate at
Westminster, the assizes, and sessions, or as a special pleader (a learned person who, having kept his
terms, is allowed to draw legal forms and pleadings, though not actually at the bar), his choice lies
usually between the Inner Temple^ the Middle Temple^ and Gray's Inn, though he may adopt Lincoln's
Inn. The Inner Temple, ftom its formerly insisting on a classical examination before admission, be-
came more exclusive than the Middle Temple or Gray's Inn. Grav's Inn has been numerously attended
by Irish students, and has produced some of the greatest luminaries at the Irish Bar, including Daniel
CPConnell. In the present day, Mr. Justice Lush, Serieant Payne, Lord BomUly, M.B., and Mr.
HnddleatoD, Q.C., have been students of Gray's Inn, and the two latter are still among its benchers.
To proonre admission to either of these Inns, the student must obtain the certificate of two bar-
risters* coupled in the Middle Temple with that of a bencher, to the effect that the applicant is a fit
person to be received into the Inn for the purpose of being called to the Bar. Once admitte(^ the
student has the useof the Library, and is enntied to a seat in the church or dispel of the Inn, and to have
his name set down for chambers. He is then required to keep eomamu, by dining in the hall tat twelve
terms (four terms occur in eadi year) ; on commencing which, he roust deposit with the treasurer lOOlLy
to be retained with interest untu he it oalled ; but resident members of the Universities are exempt from
this deposit. The student must also Bign a bond with sureties for the payment of his commons and
term fees. In all the Inns no person can oe called unless he is above twenty*one years of age and three
years' standing as a student. The eaU is made bv the benchers in oonndl ; after which the student be-
eomes a barrister, and takes the usual oath at Westminster. A Coundl of Legal Education has. how-
ever, of late years been established by the four Inns of Court, to superintend the subtjoct of the educa-
tion of students for the Bar ; and, by order of this council, law lectures are given hf learned professors
at the foor Inns, all of which anv student of any of the Inns can attend. Examinauons also take placet
and scholarships, certificates, sna other marks of approbation are the rewards of the successfol students.
Nevertheless persons may still be called to thtf Bar, renrdless of the lectures sad examinati<ms} but
In all cases keeping eowtmon$ by dining in the haU is still absolutdy necessary.
A Sail Dinmtr is a fonnal scene. At five or half-psst five o'clock, the barristers, students, and other
members in their gowns, having assembled in the hall, the benchers enter in procession to the daiss
the steward strikes the table three tbnes, grace is said by the treasurer or senior bencher present, and
the dinuer commences : ttie bmchers observe somewhat more style at their table than the other mem-
bers do at theirs : the general repsst is a tureen of soup, a joint of meat, a tart, and cheese, to each
mess consisting of four persons ; each mess is also allowed a bottle ofport-wine. The dinner over, the
benchers, after grace, retire to their own apartment. At the Inner Temple, on May 29, a gold cup of
" sack " is handed to each membor, who drmks to the happy re8torati<m of Charles II. At Grav's Inn
a similar custom prevails, but the toast is the memory of Queen Elizabeth. The Inner Temple Hall
waiters are called pouutien, flrom the p<marU who attended the Knights Templars. At both Temples
the form of the dinner resembles the repsst of the military monks : the bwichers on the dais represent-
ing the Knights ; the barristers, the Jn^ret, or Brethren ; and the students, the Novices. The Middle
Temple still bears the arms of the Knights Templars, viz. the figure of the lloly Lamb.
The entrance expenses at the Inner Temple (the average of the costs at other Inns) are 4Cl. 11m. M..
of whieh 261. U Si. is for the stamp; on call, 82/. 12t, of which Sil, 2$. fid. is for the stamp: total
UBL 3e. The commons bill is about 121. annually,
Arwu of Temple, Innert Az. a pegasus salient, or. Temple. Middle : Arg. on a cross gu. a pasohal
lamb or, oarryinga banner of the first, charged with a cross of the second. JAneoln'e In» : Or, a Uon
rampant pup. These weie the arms of Lsqr, Earl of Lincoln. Qrag't Jnns Ss. a giiflin segxesnt» or.
INNS OF CHANCBUT.
THESE Inns were formerly the norseries of our great lawyers; but they are at pre-
sent attached only by name to the parent Inns of Court : the Inner Temple had
three, Clemeni's, Clifford**, and Lyon's Inns; the Middle Temple one. New Inng
lincolu's Inn one, Thames s and Qra/s Inn two, Barnard's and Staple Inns^
Babnabd'b Ikk, Holbom, andently Mackworth's, from having belonged to Dr*
John Mackworth, Dean of Lincohi, temp. Henry VI., was next occupied by one Bar-
nard, when it was converted into an Inn of Chancery ; the arms of the house are those
of Mackworth, viz. party per pale, indented ermine and sables, a chevron, gules, fretted
or. The ancient HaU, maintained in the olden taste, is the smallest in the London
Inns : it is 36 feet long, 22 feet wide, and 30 feet high.
In Barnard's Inn, No. 2, second-floor chambers, lived the chemist, Mr. Peter Wonlfe, F.BjaL,
a helUver m olcKemy. {See Alchxmists, p. S.)
Westward, in Holbom, in Dyer's-bnildings (the site of some almshouses of the Dyers'
Company), lived William Boeooe when he published his edition of Pope's Works* with
notes and a life of the poet* 10 vols. 8vo, 1824.
472 CZrUIOSITIES OF LONDON.
CLEMiirr's Inn, Strand, is named firom being near the chardi of St. Clement Danea^
and St. Clemenfa WeU. It was a bouse for students of tbe law in the r&ga of
Edward IV. The Elizabethan iron gate, erected in 1852, bears the device of St.
Clement, an anchor without a stock, with a C oonchant upon it; as also does the
Hall, built in 1715. In the small gajrden is a kneeling figure supporting a sun-dial;
it is painted black, and has hence been called a blackamoor.
Shakspeare has left us a picture from this Inn at his period :
" ShaUom. I was onoe of Gement'a Inn where I think they will talk of mad Shallow yet
" Silence. Tou'were called lusty Shallow then, cousin.
** Shaliom. By the mass, I was called any thingr ; and I would have done any thing indeed, and roimdly
too. There was I and little John Doit of Staffordshire, and Blaek George Barnes of Staffbidshize, and
Frands Pickbone and Will Squele, a Cotswold man ; you had not four soch swinge-bncklers in aU the
Inns of Court again."
Then Shallow tells of Sir John Falstaffbreakinff "Skogan's head at tbe oonrt-gate, when be was
a orack not thus high ; and the very same day did I fight with one Sampson Stockfish, a frnitera', be-
hind Oray's Inn."
** Shallow. Oh, Sir John, do yoa remembv since we lay all night in the Windmill in St George's
Fields P
" FaUtaff. We have heard the chimes at midnight, Master Shallow.
*' Shallow. I remember at Mile-End Green (when I lay at Clement's Inn), I was then ** Sir Dagonett**
In Arthur's Show."
Then Falstaff says of Shallow : ** I do remember him at Clement's Inn, like a man made after sapper
of a cheese-parlng.'~ JJmry IV. Part II. act Hi. sc. 2.
Sir Edmund Sanders, Lord Chief- Justice of the Court of King's Bench from 1681
to 1688, was originnlly a poor boy, wlio used to beg scraps at Clement's Inn, where an
attorney's clerk taught him to earn some pence by hackney-writing. St. Clement's
Well, on the east of the Inn, and lower end of Clement's- lane, is mentioned by Fitz-
stephen : it is now covered, and has a pump placed in it.
Clitfobd's Jw, behind St. Dunstan's Church, Fleet-street, is named from Robert
Clifford, to whom the property was granted by Edward II., and by his widow was
let to students of the law. The arms are those of Clifford, viz. cheeky, or and
azure, a fesse and bordure gules, bezant^. Sir Edward Coke was admitted of this
Inn, 1571 ; and Selden, 1602. Harrison, the regicide, was an attorney's clerk here :
in the same oflSce with him was John Bramston, oounn of Sir John Bramston, who
records: "When the warr begann, his fellow-clerke, Harrison, perswaded him to
take armes (this b that famous rogue Harrison, one of the King's judges), which ho
did, that he might get to the King, which he soon did." — Autobiography.
The Hall is modem Gothic, but has some old armorial glass. Here is an oaken case*
in which are the Society's rules written on vellum, with illuminated initials and the
arms of England, temp. Henry VIII. In this Hall Sir Matthew Hale and the judges
sat after the Great Fire of 1666, to adjudicate in disputes between landlords and
tenants, &e. The most authentic record of any settling of the Law Societies in the
reign of Edward III. is a demise, in the 18th year, from Lady Clifford apprentiem de
Banco, ** of that house near Fleet-street called Clifford's Inn."
A very peonllar dinner-costom is obserred in the Hall, which Is beliered to be nnlqne. The Socie^
consists of two distinct bodies—" the Principal and Bales/' and the junior members, or " Kentish Mess.*^
Each body has its own table : at the conclusion of the dinner, the chairman of the Kentish Mess, first
bowing to the Principal of the Inn, takes from the hands of the servitor four small rolls, or loaves of bread,
and, without saring a word, he dashes them three several times on the table ; he then disdiarges them
to the other ena of the table, from whence the bread is removed by a servant in attendance. Solemn
silence— broken only by three impressive thumps upon the table— prevails during this strange ceremony,
which takes the place of grace after meat in Clifford's Inn Hall; and ooncemm^ which, not evm the
oldest member of the Sodetv is able to give any explanation.— JVo^eiajwl Quenet^ 2nd 8., No. 4. lu
No. 7, Mr. Buckton, of Lichfield, savs : " Cakes, sacred to Ceres, osually terminated the andoits' ftasU ;
and th^ rolls at Clifford's Inn may be thrown down as an offering to Ceres, l^f^era, as she first taught
mankind the use of laws"— a remote probability.
In Clifford's Inn "lived Robert Pultock, author of Peter Wilkins, with its Flying
Women. Who he was is not known — probably a barrister without practice; but he
wrote an amiable and interesting book." — Leiffh Sunt.
Clifford's Inn has a terrace and raised garden, rearward of which is the new Record
Office, of late Gothic or Tudoresque style, somewhat of a German character, with
massive buttresses and Decorated windows.
FtrBiriTAL's Iw, between Brook-street and Leather-lane, was originally the town
mansion of the Lords Fumlval, and was an Inn of Chancery in the 9th of Henry IV. ;
was held under lease temp. Edward VI., and the inheritance in the then Lord Shrews-
INNS OF CHANGEBT. 473
bury was sold early in Elizabeth's reign to the Benchers of Lincoln's Inn, who leased
the property to the Society of Fnrnivars Inn. Sir Thomas More was Reader here for
three years. The original buildings were mostly taken down in Charles I.'s time, and
then re-edified with a lofby street-front of fine brickwork, decorated with pilasters.
The old Gothic Hall remained until 1818, when the entire Inn was taken down, and
rebnilt of brick by Peto in modem style, with stone columns and other accessories. In
the square is a statue of Peto. Thomas Fiddall, attorney of this Inn, in 1654 wrote a
Conveyancing Guide, publ'ished with his portrait. Fumival's Inn is let in chambers,
bat is no longer an Inn ef Court or Chanceiy. Part of its interior is occupied by a
well-appointed hotel.
** In the 32d of Henry VI., a tumult betwixt the g^entlemen of Innes of court and chancery and the
citizens of London happening in Fleet-atreet, in which some mlsohief was done,. the principals of Clif-
fitord's Inne, FumivalJe's lune, and Barnard's Inne, were sent prisoners to Hartford Castle."— Stow's
Anmtis,
Lto^'b Ink, Strand, between Holywell-street and Wych-street, was originally a
guest-inn or hostelry, held at the sign of the Zyon, and purchased by g^tlemen, pro-
fessors and students in the law, in the reign of King Henry Vlll., and converted
to an Inn of Chancery. Hatton describes the Inn, in 1708, as follows : —
Lyon's Inn, an Inn of Chaneery, situate on the Sh. side of Witch Btr. It has been such an Inn
sinc« Anno 1420, or sooner. It is fforemed by a Treasurer and 12 Ancients; those of this House are 3
weekfl in Michaelmas Term, other Terms 2 in Commons ; and pay &$. for the Reading Weeks, for others
2*. ed. Here are Mootings once in 4 terms, and they sell their chambers for 1 or 2 Lives. Their
Armorial Ensigns are Chequy Or and Azure, a Lyon Rampant Sable. They hare a handsome HalL
boUt in the year 1700.
Herbert, in his AntiquUies of the Inns of Court and Chancery, the materials for
which he mostly derived from Dugdale*s Originee Juridicialee, says :— >" It (Lyon's
Inn) is known to be a place of considerable antiquity from the old books of the
stewards' accounts, which oontun entries made in the time of King Henry V. How
long before that period it was an Inn of Chancery is uncertain." Sir Edward Coke,
the year after his call to the Bar in 1579, was appointed Reader at Lyon's Inn, where
his learned lectures brought him crowds of clients; this being the start of our great
constitutional lawyer.
The whole of the Inn was taken down in 1863 ; and a sketch of certain of its late
tenants wiU be found in Walks and Talks about London, 1865. In chambers at the
south-east comer of the Inn lived the gambler, William Weare, who was murdered by
John Thnrtell and others, at Elstree, in Hertfordshire^ as commemorated in a ballad
of the time, attributed to Theodore Hook : —
"ThOT cut his throat tram ear to ear,
His brains they battinred in :
Bis name was Mr. William Weare^
Ho dwelt in Lyon's Inn."
He left his chambers on the afternoon of October 24^ 1823, for Elstree, whence he
never returned alive. Lyon's Inn Hall bore the date 1700, and a lion sculptured in its
pediments. The Inn formerly had its sun-dial, and a few trees. Here lived Philip
Abiolon, whoi in conjunction with £. W. Brayley, wrote a History of Westminster
Abbey, The place had long ceased to be exclusively tenanted by lawyers.
New Ikk, Wych-street, adjoins Clement's Inn : the Hall and other bulldogs are
modem. On the site, about 1485, was a guest inn, or hostelry, with the sign of the
Virgin Mary, and thence called Our Lad/s Inn. It was piu^chased or hired by 2dir
John Fineuz, Chief Justice of the King's Bench, in the reign of Edward IV., at 6/.
per annum, for the law-students of St. Qeorge's Inn, in St. George's-lane, Little Old
Bailey ; here also the students of the Strand Inn nestled, after they were rooted from
thenoc in the reign of Edward VI. by the Duke of Somerset. The armorial ensigns
of New Inn are, vert, a flower-pot argent. Sir Thomas More studied here in the
reign of Henry VII., before he entered himself of Lincoln's Inn; and in after-life he
spoke of " New Inn fare, wherewith many an honest man is well contented." Against
the Hall is a large vertical sun-dial ; motto, " Time and tide tarry for no man."
Sebjeavts' Ikk, Chavcebt-lane. — ^There were originally three Inns provided for
the reception of the Judges and such as had attained to the dignity of the coif — vix,.
474 CUBI08ITIE8 OF LONDON.
iint, Scroop's Inn at Seijeants* Place, opposite St. Andrew's Church, Holhom, now loog
deserted by the Seijeonts ; secondly, Serjeants' Inn, Fleet-street, which was held bj lease
under the Dean and Chapter of York, and is now deserted as an inn for Serjeants ; and
thirdly, Seijeants' Inn, Chancery-lane, the only place that can with propriety be at present
called Serjeants' Inn. Scroop's Inn belonged to John Lord Scroop, and was afterwards
known as Scroop's^x>urt. After his death it was let oat to some seijeants, who adopted it
as their place, whence it was called Seijeants* Inn in Holbom. After they disised i^
the nte was used for tenements and gudens. The seijeants about the beginning of
the reign of Henry VI., and not before, resorted to the Fleet-street Inn, which bad a
very fine chapel and hall and a stately court of tall brick buildings. It likewise
retained a steward, a master cook, a chief butler, with other attendants and servants*
and a porter. The old Inn in Holbom having been sold, and the Fleet-street Inn
having become dilapidated, the Serjeants were quite ready to entirely emigrate to Chan-
oery-lane, the third and chief Inn to which one need invite attention. It bore once
the name of " Faryndon Inn," and it was known as early as the 17 Richard II., when
the inheritance belong^ (and has done since) to the Bishop of Ely and his soo-
cesBors. In the ** accompt" of the Bishop's bailiff 12 Henry IV., it was called '< Faryn-
don Inne," and it was stated " that the seijeants-at-law had lodgings there." In 1416^
7 Henry V., the whole house was demised to the judges and others learned in the law.
The freehold, after having passed through various hands, came to be held for three
lives by Sir Anthony Ashley, Knight, under whom the judges and seijeants continued
to rent it. Eventually the seijeants negotiated with the Bishop of Ely for the purchase
of the fee simple of the property, and the siame was ultimately vested in the Society by
an Act of Parliament, creating the Society of Serjeants' Inn, Chancery^lane, for the
purpose, a Corporation, upon the annual payment for ever of a fee farm rent to the
Bishop and his successors. The officers belonging to this Inn are similar to those in
Fleet-street — namely, a steward, a master cook, a chief butler, and their servants, and a
porter. In 1837-8 the Inn was rebuilt (under the auspices of Serjeant Adams, the
then treasurer) by Sir Robert Smirk e, R.A., except the old diuing-hall of the Society,
which was then fitted up as a court for Exchequer equity sittings, but is now used as
the state dining-room of the seijeants, including the common law judges, who are
always seijeants-at-law. The handsomest room is, however, the private dining-room,
which contains one of the finest collections of legal portraits in the kingdom, induding
those of Sir Edward Coke, by Cornelius Jansen ; of Lord Mansfield, Lord King, ^
Francis Buller, Chief Justice Tindal, Lords Eldon, Denman, and Lyndhurst, all by
painters of note. The windows (containing the armorial ensigns of judges and
Serjeants) are finely executed. The chambers where the judges of the common law sit
to hear summonses and other private matters are in this Inn. The arms of Seijeants*
Inn are, or, a stork ppr.
This Serjeants' Inn is the exclusive property of the seijeants-at-laW, or Servientes ad
Legerny who are the highest degree in the common law. The serjeantcy-at-law, more-
over, is somewhat of a title or dignity as well as a degree, being created by the Queen's
writ. In his armorial ensigns, the serjeant bears a helmet open and front face, like
that of a knight, and not with the vizor down as an esquire's is. He, in a knighUy
way, gives, on his appointment, gold rings to the Queen, the Lord Chancellor, and to
his own legal friends. The serjeants-at-law form a brotherhood to which the judges of
the Common Law Courts at Westminster must belong. For this reason, as being of
the same body, the judges of the Common Law Courts at Westminster invariably
address a serjeant as " Brother ;" and they never apply the term to any other counseL
The seijeants are a body incorporated by Act of Parliament. The robes of the ser-
jeant vary in colour on particular days; and peculiar to him is ** the coif," or circular
black patch on the top of his wig. By that mark, peculiar to his order, the serjeant-
at-law may always be recognised in court. The serjeant, on joining Serjeants^
Inn, quits entirely the Inn of Court to which he, as a student and barrister, be*
longed.
At some of the Inns of Court, if the new-made seijeant leaves the Inn in term-time,
the following ceremony occurs : after giving a breakfast to the benchers of the Inn in their
council chamber, the new serjeant proceeds to the banqueting-hall, and is there presented
ISLE OF BOGS, 475
by the treasurer with a silyer pnrse contiuning tea giiiDeas, as a retaining fee fbr any
occasion on which the Society may in fhtnre require his services. A hell is then rung
as a warning that he has ceased to he a member of the Inn.*
SxBJEAirrs' Iw, Fiset-stbbbt. — ^This other, but obsolete Inn, in Fleet-street*
already described, still bears the name of Sebjsakts' Ivv, and this is liable to
be mistaken for the now only real Serjeants* Inn, in Chancery-lane. The Fleet-street
Inn was destroyed in the Great Fire, was rebuilt in 1670, and again rebuilt, as we
now see it, with a handsome stone-fronted edifice, designed by Adiun, the architect.
This Inn is now lot in private chambers to any one who likes to rent them.
Staple Iks, Holbom, nearly opposite Ghmy's-inn-lane, is traditionally named from
having been the inn or hostel of the Merchants of the (Wool) Staple^ whither it was
removed from Westminster by Richard II. in 1S78. It became an Inn of Chancery
temp, Henry V. ; and the inheritance of it was granted 20th Henry VIII. to the
Society of Gray's Inn. The Holbom front is of the time of James I., and one of the
oldest existing specimens of our metropolitan street-architecture. The Hall is of a later
date, has a dock-turret, and had originally an open timber roof: some of the armorial
window-glass is of date 1500 ; there are a few portraits, and at the upper end is the
wool-sack, the arms of the Inn ; and upon brackets are casts of the twelve CsBsars. In
the garden ac|joining was a luxuriant fig* tree which nearly covered the south side of
the HalL Upon a terrace opposite are the offices of the Taxing Masters in Chancery,
completed in 1843, Wigg and Pownall, architects ; in the purest style of the reign of
James I., with frontispiece, arched entrances, and semidrcular oriels, finely effective :
the open-work parapet of the terrace, and the lodge and gate leading to Southampton-
buildings, are very picturesque.
Dr. Johnaon lived in Staple Inn in 1769 : in a note to Miis Porter, dated March 23, he informs her
that **he had on that day removed from Googh-eqnare, where he had resided ten jean, into chambera
at StM>le Inn;" hero he wrote his IdUr, seated in a three-legrged chair, so tcantiW were Mb chambers
farnlahed. In 1760, Johnson removed to Gray's Inn. Isaac iieed lived at No. 11, Staple Inn.
SxBAin) Imr, or Chsbteb Iinr from its being near the Bishop of Chester's house^
waa taken down temp, Edward VT., by the Duke of Somerset for building his palace;
it occupied part of the site of the present Somerset House. Ocdeve, the pupil of
CluMicer, in the reign of Henry V., is said to have studied the law at " Chestre's
Inn."
Stmonp'b Imsr, Chancery-lane, though named from a gentleman of the parish who
died in 1621, is stated to be the only portion retained by the Bishops of Chichester of
th^r property in Chancery-lane, where they formerly had a palace; and here are
Biahop's-oourt and Chichester-rents.
Thatib'8 Iw, between Nos. 56 and 67, Holbom-hill, was originally the dwelling of
Jobn Thavie, of the Armourers' Company, who let the house temp. Edward III. to
apprentices to the law : it was subsequently purchased as an Inn of Chancery by the
benchers of Lincoln's Inn, by whom it was sold in 1771 ; destroyed by fire, and re-
bailt as a private court. In the a^oining church of St. Andrew is a monument to
John Thavie, who, in 1348, ** left a considerable estate towards the support of this fabrick
for ever/' from which property the parish now derive an annual income of 13002.
A
ISLE OF DOQS (THE),
PART of Poplar Marsh, lying within the bold curve of the Thames between
Blackwall and Limehouse, was originally a peninsula ; in a Map drawn in 1588
by Bobert Adams, engraved in 1738, this name is applied to an islet in the Thames,
still in part existing, at the south-west comer of the peninsula, and from this spot the
name appears to have extended to the entire marsh. {Notes and Queriee, No. 203.)
In 1799-1800, a canal was cut through the isthmus by the Corporation of London, to
• Nearly opposite Seijeanta' Inn, Chanoery-lane, were two hooaes, date 1611, taken down in 1863.
The richly-carved and pictoretqne house at the sonth-west oomsr, in Fleet-street (often engraved), wsa
taken down fbr widening the lane in 1780.
476 CUBI08ITIE8 OF LONDON.
nve Bliips the long panage round the Islo ; bnt since sold to the West India Dock
Company, and now a timber-dock. Here Togodumnus, brother of Caractacaa» is said
to have been killed in a battle with the Romans under Plantios, aj>. 46. TraditLooallj,
it was named from the honnds of Edward III. b>iing kept there^ for contiguity to
Waltham and other royal forests in Essex. Again, Isle of Dogt is held to be cor-
mpted from Itle of Ducks, from the wildfowl u'lon it. Here (says Lysons) stood the
chapel of St. Mary, mentioned in a will of the fifteenth century, " perhaps an hermitage
founded for saying masses for the souls of mariners." The remains of the chapel
existed to a very late date. Pepys speaks of it as " the unlucky Isle of Dog^gs.** He
also speaks of a ferry in the Isle of Dogs, which is named as a horse-ferry by Norden
in the Speculum BrUannia, 1592 (MS.). This ferry is still used. The ground is
very rich, and in Strype's time oxen fed here sold for 84^ apiece : the grass was long
prized for distempered catUe. The island is a pleistocene drift or diluvial deposit, in
which has been found a subterranean forest of elm, oak, and fir trees, eight feet below
the grass, and lying from south-east to north-west; some of the elms were three feet four
inches in diameter, accompanied by human bones and recent shells, but no metals or
traces of civilization : the marsh is now enclosed by a pile and brick embankment.
Here Captain Brown, R.N., established his works for the manufacture of iron snspen-
sion-bridges and iron cables : fn 1813, he built here a suspension-bridge for foot-
passengers, weighing only 38 cwt., but carts and carriages passed safely over it ; the
span was 100 feet. Captain Brown also constructed the chain-pier at Brighton, in
1822-3. About this time the Isle of Dogs began to be thickly inhabited : liere is
St. Edmund's Roman Catholic Chapel. The late Alderman Culntt built here a large
number of houses, named Cubitt-town, and a Gothic church. The Isle is partly covered
with stone-wharves, iron ship-building and chemical works, &c. Adjoining are the
dockyards of the VVigrams and Greens, formerly Perry's, mention^ by Pepya in
1660-61 : the picturesque old masting-housc is 120 feet high. Near the principal
entrance to the West India Docks is a bronze statue (by Westmacott) of Mr. Milligan,
by whom the Docks were begun and principally completed. (See Millwall.)
The working men of the Isle of Dogs numbo: some 16,000, engaged in the numeroos
factories and shipyards ; for whose recreation has been formed a Free Library, to
provide them with amusement tor evenings too often spent in dissipation.
ISLINGTON,
CALLED also Isddon, Yseldon, Eyseldon, Isendune, and Isondon, and of all the vil-
lages near London alone bearing a British name, was originally two miles distant
north of the town, to which it is now united. Iseldon is coi^ectured to signify the
lower fort, or station ; and as there was undoubtedly a Roman camp at Highbury, this
name may have been given to the camp which a few years since was vinble in the field
beside Bamsbury Park. Iseldon, in Domesday Book, possesses nearly 1000 acres of
arable land alone; and so well cleared was the property, that there only remained
"pannage (or 60 hogs" (woodlands) a(\joining Hornsey.
The groat benefactor of Islington was Richard de Cloadealey, who by will, dated 1617, among other
bequests to the parish, lett to poor men gowns with the names of Jient and Maria upon them ; also 40«.
for repairing and amending the canseway between his house and Islington Church ; and a load of
straw to belaid npon his grave : bat superstition would not let CIoudesiey'B "bodie rest until certain
exorcises, at dede of nigh^" had quieted him, with " diaers diuine exorcises at torchlight." The name
of this benefactor is preserved in Goudesley Square and Terrace. Algernon Ponnr, Earl of Northanw
berlond, is said to have resided at Newington Oreen. where Henry VII I. was a irequent visitor, pro-
bably on his hawlLing excursions ; and one of his proclamations, in 1616, commands that " the ga .esof
hare, partridge, pheasant, and heron, be preserved for his owne disport and pastime ; that is to raje,
from his palace of Westminster to St. Gyles in the Fields, and from thence to Islington, to oar Lady of
the Oke, to Uighgate, to Hornsey Parke, to Hamstcd Heath," &c.
Islington retained a few of its Elizabethan houses to onr time, and its rich dairies
are of like antiquity : in the entertainment given to Queen Elizabeth at Kenilworth
Castle, in 1575, the Squier Minstrel of Middlesex glorifies Islington with the motto^
" Lac caseus infans ;" and it is still noted for its cow-keepers. It was once as famous
for its cheese-cakes as Chelsea for its buns ; and among its other notabilitits wcru cus-
tards and stewed <* prnans," its mineral spa, and its ducking-ponds — Ball's Pond dating
ISLINGTON. 477
from the time of Charles I. At the lower end of Islington, in 1611, were eight inua,
principally supported by summer visitors :—
" Hogsdone, UUmgion^ and Tothnsm Court,
For caket and creame had then no small resort."
Wither's BrUaiiet Semnthraneer, 162S.
Cowley, in his poem " Of Solitude," points to Isling^n of the seventeenth century,
in thus apostrophizing "the monster London" : —
" Let bat thy wicked men from out thee go^
And all the fools that crowd thee so,
Ev'n thoo, who doet thy millions boast,
A Tillage less than Islington will grow,
A solitude almost."
Lord Macaulay, in like van, says, " Islington was (temp, Charles I.) almost a solitude^
and poets loved to contrast its silence and repose with the din and turmoil of the mon-
ster London." — HUtory of England, vol. i. pp. S49-850.
Islington parish includes Upper and Lower HoUoway, three sides of Newington-
green, and part of Kingsland; the southern portion of the village being in the parish
of St. James, ClerkenwelL Besides St. Mary's, the mother-church, here are a large
charch in Lower HoUoway ; St. John's, Upper HoUoway ; St. Paul's, Ball's Pond ;
and Trinity, Cloudesley -square — aU three designed by Barry, RA., 1828-9, architect^
also of St. Peter's, in 1836 ; Christchnrch, Highbury, designed by AUom, inr 1849, has
a picturesque tower and spire, and interior of novel plan. There are also other district
churches ; St. John the Evangelist's (Roman CathoUc), with lofty gable and flanking
towers ; besides numerous chapels for every shade of dissent : Claremont Chapel, built
in 1820, was named in memory of the lamented Princess Charlotte.
Canonbury, about half a mile north-east of the old church, was once the oountrj-
hoose of the Prior of the Canons of SL Bartholomew : the tower is described at p. 78.
An old IsUugtonisD has fliToared ns with these details of the New Biver : Act of Parliament passed
1606; faegtm Feb. 20, 1606; the labourers received 2f. Cd. per day: stopped at Enfield for want of
funds; completed In five years ; opened with groat ceremony at the Head, Sadler's Wells, Michaelmas
l>ay, 1613, before the Lord Mayor and Lord l^yor Elect, Sir Thomas Myddelton, brother of Sir Hugh ;
Kin^ James, and Sir Hngh Myddelton.
The New JRiver enters IsUngton by Stoke Newing^ton, and pasnng onward, beneath
Highbury, to the east of Islington, ingulfs itself under the road, in a subterraneons
channel of 800 yards ; again rises in Colebrook-row, and stiU coasting the sonthem
side of Isling^n, reaches its termination at the New River Head, Sadler's Wells.
From this vast drcular bann the water is conveyed by sluices into large brick cisterns,
and hence by mains and riders to aU parts of London. (See Nbw Riysb.) Upon the
Green, now planted and inclosed as a garden, is a portrait-statue in stone of Sir Hugh
Myddelton, with a drinking fountain, presented by Sir Morton Peto, Bart., M.P.
The centre of IsUngton is perforated by the Begeni^e CatuU brick tunnel, com-
mencing westward of White Conduit House, and terminating below Colebrook-row.
This tunnel is 17 feet wide, 900 yards long, and 18 feet high, including 7 feet 6 inches
^pth of water.
Sighlmry was originally a summer camp of the Romans, and adjoined the £r-
mine-street. The manor was given to the Priory of St. John of Jerusalem between
1271 and 1286, and was the Lord Prior's country residence, destroyed by Jack Straw
iu 1371. The site is now occupied by Highbury Honse, where is a lofty observatory,
partly buUt by John Smeaton, F.R.S.
Among the more eminent Inhabitants of Islington were John Bagford, the antiquary and book and
print collector: William Collins, whilst nnder mental infirmity, was visited here bv Dr. Johnson}
Alexander Croaen. compiler of the Coneordamot, died here hi 1770; OUver Goldsmitn, and Ephraim
Uumbers the cyclopsBdist, lodged in Canonbury tower; Quick, the comedian, in Homsey-row ; John
Nichols, F.SJk, editor of the OwniUwuatifBUaoaghie, lived in Highbnry-plaoe: where Bichard PerclvaL
^•SJt, formed a matchleis ooUection of drawings and prints of Islington : William Knight, F.BJL., of
CsQonbQTy, a collection of anglhig>books and missals. William Upcott, F.S.A^ the biblToKrapher and
■titograph-eoUector. died here in 1846; and Charlee I^amb retired from his clerkship in the India House
to a cottage in Colebrook-row, in 1826 : '*the New River (rather elderly by this time) runs (if a mode-
nte wslkhkg pace can be so termed) close to the foot of the house." (C. £ajii6.) The honse remains, bat
°A« been moon altered ; and the New River has been covered over. Hard by was " Starvation Farm,"
Where the owner, a foreign baron, kept his emaciated stock.
In July, 18M, was dispersed by auction the valuable Library of the late Mr. George Daniel, of 18^
^onbory-sqaare, together with nis collection of Original Drawings and Engraved Portraits of Actors
'""^ Actreiies, Water-ooloor Drawings, Pottery sad Porcelain, fto. The librsry included the i'irst
478 CURIOSITIES OF LONDON.
Poor FoUm of ShakipMre^i Works, the First Folio producing 682 gniiMM: tbe Qaarto Plajs
prised sereral iirtt edition^, 90O2. each and upwards ; BonneU, one of the only two perfect cop^ knowii,
with the same imprint, 216 goineas; and a choioe edition of the Poems ; also, aoouectioiiof GOack-letter
Ballads. 1860-1507, 7602. A great number ofthe Books were unique, or nearly so, and included Garlands,
Jests, Drolleries, and Songs : two Missals of high dass; Autograph Letters, Drawings^ and EngraTinsv,
IllustratiTe of the lives and times of Bums, Chatterton, Ck)wper, Goldsmith, Gray, Johnson, Kemble,
Pope, Ac The sale occupied ten days.
Among the old inns and ptibUc-hotuee were— -near the dmrcb, the Pied Bull,
popularly a villa of Sir Walter Raleigh's ; in Lower-sfcreet, the Crown, apparently of
the reign of Henry VII^ and the Qtu?«i»> Head, a half-timbered Elizabethan house;
near the Qreen, the Duktfe Head, kept by Topham, ** the Strong Man of Islin^n ;"
in Frog-lane» the BarUtf'nww, where George Morland painted; at the Old Parr^e
Head, in Upper-street, Henderson the tragedian first acted; WhUe Condmit Houee
has been twice reboilt within oar recollecdon ; and Highiwry Bam, though now a
showy tavern, nominally recals its roral origin ; the Three Hats, near the tnmpike,
was taken down in 1839 ; and the Angel was originally a galleried inn. Timber
gables and mdely-carved brackets are occasionally to be seen on Islington house-fronts
bearing old dates; also here and there an old " house of entertainment," which, with
the little remaining of " tbe Green," reminds one of Islington tfillage,
Islington abounds with chalybeate springs, resembling the Tunbridge WeUs water ;
one of wMch was rediscovered in 1683, in the garden of Sadler's music-house, subse-
quently Sadler's Wells Theatre; at the Sir Hugh MgddeUon*s Head tavern was
formerly a conversation-picture with twenty-eight portraits of the Sadler's WeUs Club.
In Spa-Fields, about sixty years ago, was held '* Qooeeberry Fair," where the stalk of
Gooseberry-fool vied with the " threepenny tea-booths " and tbe beer at " m; Lord
Cobham's Head."
The following amusing Curiosities of Islington Taverns are selected and abridged
from Pinks's History of ClerhenweU, 1865 : —
Less than half a century ago, the Old Red Lion Taotm, in St. John-itreet-road, the eziatenoe of
which dates as flur back as 141fi, stood almost alone; it is shown in the centre distance of Hogarth's
print of Bvenimg, Several eminent persons frequented this house : among othos, Thomson, the author
of Tk€ Seatont ; Dr. Johnson, and OfiTer Goldsmith. In a room here Thomas Paine wrote ms infionons
book, The RigkU of Man, which Burke and Bishop Watson demolished. The parlour Is hung with
choice impressions of Hogarth's plates. The house has been almost rebuilt.
Opposite the Bsd Hon, and surrounded by pens for holding cattle on their way to Smithfidd, was
an old building called "Goose Farm ;" it was let in suites of rooms: here lived Cawse, the painter;
and in another suite, the mother and sister of Charles and Thomas Dibdin — the mother, a short, squab
figure, came on among villagen and mobs at Sadler's Wells Theatre, but, fldling to get engaged, she
died in Clerkenwell Poorhouse. Vincent dc Cleve, nicknamed Polly de Cleve, for his prying ooalitiea^
who was treasurer of Sadler's Wells for many yean, occupied the second-floor rooms alMve the Dibdina.
** Goose Yard," on the west of the road, serves to determine the site of the old fturmhouso.
The public-house being the iron gates leading to the Sadler's Wells Theatre, with the sign of Tkt
fJUmn, In honour of Grimiddi, who firequented the house, was, in his day, known as the Kinii qf
Pnuna, prior to which its sign had been uat of the Queen qfSunfforjf. It is to this tavern, or rather
to an older one upon the same site, that Goldsmith alludes in his Seem on the VereatUify of Popular
JVtooitr. " An alehouse-keeper," says he, ** near Islington, who had long lived at the sign of T%e
JVmcA JtRna, npon the commencement of the late war with France, pulled down his own sign, and put
up that ofthe Q^en of Bnngarw. Under the influence of her rra lace and golden sceptre, he con-
tinued to sell ale till sne was no longer the fkvourite of his customers: he changed her, thoefore, some
time ago for the King qf Prueeia, which may probably be changed in turn for ^e man that shall be set
up for vulgar admiration." The oldest sign by which this house was distinguished was that of The
TnrVe Head.
At The Chlden Ball, near Sadler's Wells, was sold by auction, in 1732, *'the valuable cnriositiee,
living creatures, ftc^ oollected by the ingenious Mons. Boyle, of Isbngton," including '* a moat strange
living creature, bearing a near resemblance of the human shape; he can utter some few sentences and
give pertinent answers to many questions. Here is likewise an Oriental oyster-shell of a prodigious
weight and size : it measures from one extreme part to the other above three feet two indies over. The
other ouriosity is called the Philosopher's Stone, and is about the size of a pullet's egg, the colour of it
Is blue, and more beantifhl than that of the Ultramarine, which, together with being ttoAj polished, is
a most delightftil entertainment to the ^e. This unparalleled curiosity was dande^ely stolen out of
the late Great Mogul's dosctj this irreparable loss had so great an efibot upon him, that in a few
months after he pmed himself to death : there is a peculiar virtue in this precious stone, that princi-
pally rehites to me Fair Sex, and will effectually signuy* in the variation of its colour, by toochuig it,
whether anv of them have lost their virginity."
At the Siting Snn, hi the Islington-road, in Miefe Journal, Feb. 9, 1726^ we read that for the ensu-
ing Shrove Tuesday '* will be a fine hog harbj/gu'd^-i.e., roasted whole— with spice, and basted with
Madeira win^ at the house where the ox was roasted whole at Christmas last."
In the Islington-road, too, near to Sadler's Wells, was Stokes's Amphitheatre, a low place, though
resorted to by the nobility and gentry. It was devoted to bull and bear baiting, dog-flghting, boziDg.
and sword-fighting; and in these terrible encounters, with naked swords, not blunted, women engaffed
•aoh other to ** a trial of skill :" they fought & la mode, in dose-fitting Jackets, short petticoats, Ud-
JAME8-8TEEET, WESTMINSTER 479
laiKl dntwcn, white thread atookinga, and painiM ; the atakea were from 102. to 202. Here we read of a
day's diversion— a mad ball, dreasM op with fireworks, to be baited ; cndgel-playingr for a silver enp^
wrestling for a pair of leather breeches, ^ : a noble, large, and sava^ Incom parable Russian bear,
t>aited to death brdc^j a bull, lUmninated with fireworks, turned loose; eating fiftrthing pies, and
diinklog hsif'«rgallon ot October beer in less than eight minutes, Acw
The increase of population in Islington has been enormons. By the census of 1851
it stood at 95,1M : by that of 1861 it is seen to be 156,000» showing an increase in
ten years of 60,846 persons. This is not entirely owing to the new buildings which
have been erected there, great as the nmnber of them is : the decadence of some of the
streets mnst also be taken into account, many booses in which, fbrmerly occupied by one
fiunily in each, now contain several. To meet these requirements at Islington have
been erected, with a portion of the funds munificently presented by an American
merchant, Mr. Peabody, to trustees for the poor of London, four blocks of buildings, to
comprise in all 155 tenements, with ample accommodation for upwards of 650 persons.
The whole cost of these buildings, exdosive of the sum paid for the land, will amount,
when the accounts shall have been closed, to 81,6902. They are appropriately named
Peetbody-square,
SollofDoy was once famous for its cheese-cakes, which, within recollection, were
cried through London streets by men on horseback. Du Val's-lane was tradition*
ally the scene of the exploits of Dn Yal, the highwayman, executed at Tyburn Jan. 21,
1690, " to the great grief of the women." Within memory, the lane was so infested
with highwaymen, that few people would ventora to peep into it, even at mid-day : in
1831 it was lighted with gas. {J. T. Smith,) At Lower Holhway, Mrs. Foster,
grand-danghter of Milton, kept a chandler's-sbop for several years; she died in poverty
at IsUng^ton, May 9, 1754, when the fimiily of Milton became extinct.
Between Islington and Hozton was built in 1786, a curious windnull fbr grinding
white-lead, worked by five flyers, at right angles to which projected a beam wit&
smaller shafts. In 1853 was built at the Rosemary Branch Gardens a Circus, to seat
five thousand persons. At Hoxton were the " Ivy Gkrdens" of Fairchild, who, dying
rich, left to the parish of St Leonard, Shoreditch, 502. (increased to 1002. by the
parishioners), the interest to be devoted to a lecture on Whit-Tuesday in the parish-
church, ** On the goodness of God as displayed in the Vegetable Creation." In Fairchild'i
employ was William Bartlett» " a simpler," who died at the age of 102 years ; and his
■on James, "a simpler," aged 80.
In the Lower-road was ** the Islington Cattle Market," originated with a view to the
removal of the cattle-market from Smithfield, and established by Act of Parliament
in 1835 ; but it fiuled as a market, and has since been only used fiir the lairage of
cattle ; it occupied fifteen acres of land, walled in. {See Mabxbtb.)
JA3£ES^STBEET, WESTiaNSTEE,
FACING St. James's Park and Buckingham-gate, has been the abode of two dis*
tingoished UteraH, At No. 11 lived the poet Glover, whose song of " Hosier's
Ghost" roused the nation to a Spanish war, and will be read and remembered long
after his Leonidae is forgotten. At Na 6 died, December 81, 1826, William GifTon^
editor of the Quarterly Review from its commencement in V&OQ to 1824 ; and working
editor of the AnUp-Jaeohin Beview, writing the refutations and corrections of " the Lies,"
** Mistakes," and " Corrections." Giffoid also translated Juvoial, wrote the satires of
the Baviad and Maviad; and edited Masmnger, Ben Jonson, Ford, and Shirley.
On the west side of James-street stood Tart Hall, partly bmlt m 1638, by N. Stone,
^ Alathsea Countess of Arundel ; after whose deatii it became the property of her
Beoond son William, the anuable Viscount Stafford, beheaded on Tower-hill, Dec. 29»
1680, upon " the pexjured suborned evidence of the ever-infamous Gates, Dugdale, and
Tuberville." The gateway of Tart Hall was not opened after Lord Stafford had passed
^der it for the last time. The second share of the Arundel Marbles was deposited
l>ere, and produced at a sale in 1720, 88512. 19«. 11}<2. (Jfi»«^, Soc. Aniiquariee.)
^< Mead bought a bronze bead of Homer for 1862. ; it is now in the British Museum^
^talogued as a head of Pindar. The Hall was taken down soon after the sale:
^ttlpole told Pcnnont it was very large and venerable. According to Strype, it was
480 • CURIOSITIES OF LONDON.
part in the parish of St. M artin's-in^the-Fields, and part in St. James's ; on the garden-
wall, a hoy was whipt annually to rcmemher the parish bounds ; upon the site of the
wall was built Stafford-row : in one of the adjoining passages, Mr^. Abington, the
actress, had an incoffnito lodging, for card-parties. Sir Bichard Phillips, in bis Morning' t
Walk from London to Kew, 1817, writes—
At Pimlico the name of 8tafford>row reminded me of the ancient dlttinction of Taii Hall, once the '
riTal in aize and eplendour of its more fortunate ncitfhbonr, Backingham House, and long the deposi-
tory of the Anindelian Tablets and Statues. It faced the Park, on the present site of Jamee-•b^eet: its
garden-wall standing where StaflTord-row is now built, and the extensive livery-stables being onoe the
stables of its residents."
Dr. Rimhault believes Tart Hall was called so from its proximity to the Mulberry
Garden, which was famous for its tartt. It is so called in the inventory of " household
stuffs," &c, taken in 1641. (Harl MS., No. 6272) ; in Algernon Sydney's Letters to
Henry Savile; in several documents in the State Paper Office, &c {Notes and Queries,
2ndS.;iz. p.407.)
In the Harleian MS. we read of four pictures : 1. A Ctoundelowe. 2. AMonntebanke. 8. A Brare.
4u ** King Henry 7. his wife and children." " The Great Boome, or Hali," was situated ** next to the
Banketing House." *' My Lord's Room" was hanged with yellow and green taflbtas. A doeet had the
floor covered with a caipet of yellow leather. The roqf of one of the rooms was decorated with a
** picture of the Fall of Phaeton." Mr. Arden's room was *' hanged with Scotch plad." Among the
pictures named are— Diana and Actison, bv Titian (now in the Bndgewater CkUlery ?) ; Jacob's Travel-
ling, by Bassauo (now at Hampton Court P) ; A Martyrdom, by Tintoret ; The Nativitv of Our Saviour,
by Honthorst. No statues are mentioned. The site is marked in Faithome's Map of London, 165S. —
Cunnimffham.
In James-street was the residence of Lord Milford, fiacing St. James's Park, and
first fitted up as the Stationery Office in 1820 : it was taken down on the removal of the
office to the new bxdldiugs in Prinoe's-street, Westminster.
ST. JAMES'S.
ALTHOUGH the Hospital dedicated to St. James is believed to have been founded
prior to the Norman Conquest, and was rebuilt as a palace in 1532, not two
centuries have elapsed since St. James's formed part of the parish of St. Martin's-in-
the- Fields, and occupied the furthest extremity of the western boundaries of West-
minster. "The Court of St. James's'' dates from after the burning of Whitehall in
the reign of William TIT., when St. James's became the royal reudence ; the church
was consecrated in 1685, in honour of the reigning monarch, to St. James.
Hatton (1708) describes the parish as " all the houses and grounds comprehended
in a place heretofore called St. James's Fields, and the confines thereof, oontainitig
about 3000 houses, and divided into seven wards." In the reign of Queen Anne it
had acquired the ^stinction of the Court quarter.
"The inliabitants of St. James's, notwithstanding the;r live under the same laws and speak the
same language, are a distinct people fh>m those of Cheapside ; who are likewise removed from those of
the Temple on the one side, and tnose of Smithfield on the other, by several climates and degrees in
their way of thinking and conversing together."— Addison, Sptetator, No. 403, 1712.
St. Jai£E8'b-stbeet, in 1670, was called " the Long Street," and is described by
Strype as beginning at the Palace of St. James's, and running up to the road against
Albemarle-buildingB; the best houses, at the upper end, having a terrace- walk before
them. Waller, the poet, lived on the west side from 1660 till 1687, when he died at
Beaconsfield; Pope lodged "next door to y' Golden Ball, on y* second terras."
Gibbon, the historian, died Jan. 16, 1794, at No. 76, then Elmsley, the bookseller's,
who would not enter upon " the perilous adventure" of publishing the Decline and
Fall, by which the publishers have profited ten times the amount paid to the author
for his copyright.
Horace Widpole relates : ** I was told a droll story of Gibbon the other day. One of those book-
sellers in Patemoster^row, who publish things in numbers, went to Oibbon's lodginjg^ In Bt. James's,
street, sent up his name, and was admitted. ' Sir,' said he, ' I am now publishing ^JELutory qfEngla md,
done by several good hands ; I understand you have a knack at them there things* and should be glad
to give you every reasonable encouragement' As soon as Gibbon had recovered tne use of his legs and
tongue, which were petrified with surprise, he ran to the bell, and desired his servant to show ttda
eucourager of learning downstairs."
Here was the Thatched House Tavern, originally a thatched houte in St. James's
8T. JAMES'S. 481
Fields. It WHS tsken down in 1814 and 1863, having been for nearly two centuries
celebrated for its club meetings; and its large public room, wherein were hung the
Dilettanti pictures. Beneath the tavern front was a range of low-built shops, including
that of Rowland, or Bouland, the fashionable coiffeur of huile Macattar iame.
Through the tavern was a passage to the rear, where, in Catharine Wheel-alley, iu
the last century, lived the widow Delany, some of whose fiuhionable friends then
resided in Dean-street, 8oho. Upon part of the site has been built the Civil Service
Club-house, described at pp. 244^ 245. Sheridan called St. James's-street the Campus
Martins of the beaux' cavalry.
Facing 8t Junet's-fftreet, upon the rite of Alb«inarle-ttreet, wss Clarendon Hooae, on the rood
whither^ on Dec. 6, 1670, between eix and seven in the evening, the great Doke of Ormond was dracged
from his carriage bj Blood and his acoomplioes, tied to one of them on horseback, and carried luong
Piccadilly towards Tybum, there to be hanged ; bat the alarm being given at Clarendon House, the
servants followed and recovered his grace from a struggle in the mud with the man he was tied to,
aoid who, on regaining his horse, fired a nistol at the duke and escaped. In the Ri$torian*9 CMde,
third edit. 1688^ are stated to have been ^siz rufBans mounted and armed ;" the duke's six footmen,
who usoaUj walked beside his carriage, were absent when the attack was nude.
BcTBT (properly Bebbt) street, on the east, is named from the g^und-landlord
a half-pay officer temp, Charles I. : he died Nov. 1738, aged above ICX) years. Swift
and Steele, Crabbe and Thomas Moore, occasionally lodged in Bury-street. Swift paid
for a first floor — a dining-room and bed-chamber, — eight shillings a week, " plaguy dear."
Jerxyk-stbest, on the east side of St. James's-street, was named from Henry
Jermyn, Earl of St. Albans. Here, in 1665-81, lived the Duke of Marlborough, when
Colonel Churchill, at the west end, south side. Gray, the poet, lodged here, at the
east end. Sir Isaac Newton lived in this street before he removed to St. Martin's-
street, Leicester-square ; as did also William and John Hunter. East of St. James's
Churdi is the entrance-front of the Museum of Practical Qeology, a lofty Italian
building by Pennethome ; completed in 1850. {See Museums.)
In JermTn-street, near St James's Church, about 1713, lived Mrs. Howe and her hosband, who was
absent from her seventeen years, as she supposed in Holland ; though, in fiiet, living disguised in a
mean lodgingin Westminster. From Jermyn-street, Mrs. Howe removed to Brewer-street, Golden-
sqnare ; Mr. Howe often visited at an opposite house, whence he saw his wife in her dining-room r^
ceiving company: and for seven years he went every Sunday to St. James's Church, and there had a
view of hia wiiiB, imt waa not recognised by her. (See Dr. King's Antedates qfhu own Ume.)
Knro-STSEET, leading to St. James's-square, has at the south-east comer the St.
James's Bazaar, described at p. 41. Here is the St. James's Theatre, designed by
Beazley for Braham tbe'singer (it occupies the site of Nerot*s Hotel, No. 19), which
cost Braham 8000^. (See Theatbbs.) Nerof s was of the time of Charles II., and
had a carved staircase, and panels painted with the story of Apollo and Daphne. Next
are Willis's Booms (tee Almack's, p. 4) ; and opposite are Christie and Manson's
(late Christie's) auction-rooms, celebrated for sales of pictures and articles of vertn,
(See an account of these sales in the Shilling Mctganne, vol. i.) At No. 16, in
King-street, lodged Louis Napoleon, in a house which he pointed out to his Empress,
as he rode up St. James's-street, on their visit to Queen Victoria in 1855. There are
four streets in this neighbourhood named from King, Charles, and the Duke of York,
In King^treet, St. James's, was bom, May 4^ 1740. Charlotte Smith, the poet and novelist ; and hers
ahe moetlr resided with her father, Mr. N. Turner, n-om her twelfth to her fifteenth year, when she
married Mr. Richard Smith, a West India merchant, aged 21.
In St. James's-street (west nde) Thomas Wirgman, goldsmith and nlversmith, kept
shop, and after making a large fortune, squandered it as a regenerating philosopher — a
Kantesian. He had tinted papers made especially for his books, one cf which, 400 pages,
cost him 2276/. printing. He published a grammar of the five senses, and metaphysics
for children, and maintained that when his system was universally adopted in schools,
peace and harmony would be restored to the earth, and virtue would everywhere
replace crime. Sir Christopher Wren had a house in St. James's-street, where he
died, Peb. 25, 1723. Lord Byron lodged at No. 8, in 1811 ; Gillray, the caricaturist^
lodged at No. 24> Humphrey the printseller's* when, in 1816, he threw himself from
an upstairs window, and died in consequence.
1815,
sobseqoently,
Z I
482 CUBI08ITIE8 OF LONDOK.
mueatcn, nmble to diipote of tho pktei m eDgravingi, nld them to Xr. H. G. Bobn, tlw
■■ oltf eoffer^ tar m maoy pence m thcj were originally nid to be worth ponnde ; and eets are noir to
be boovbt at ooe-fifth of the first eoat. (See the Aeeommi^ fte. by Wright and Erane, 185L)
Alwot 1708, Pejnnilff, or Pero's "Bagnio," now Fenton's Hotel, was in lu^ frabion.
At ibe aooth-west end was the St. Jamea'a Coffee-hoiBe (Whig), taken down in 1806 :
it waa tlie Fore^ and Domeitic Newa-honae of the TaiUr, and the " fimntain head"
of tlie Spectator, Rere, too{, waa tlie Toy boue^ Ozinda'a; and the Cocoa-tree, to
which hekniged Gibbon and Lord Byron.
In St James's-fltreet are aereral Onb-honses, alreadj deacribed (tee pp. 241-260).
At White's is a pair of Tiewa by Canaletti : one, London Bridge, with the hooses, from
Old Somerset Hoose Gardens; and Wevtminater Bridge (just boilt), taken from the
water, off Caper's Garden.
Next to Brooks's Qub, in 1781, lived C. J. Fox. At Ko. 62 was Bett/s finnt^hop^
ftmona in Horace Walpole's time. Blason has, in his Heroic EpiHlet—
« And patriot Betty fix hff ftidUhop here."
It was a famoos place far gosnp. Walpole says of a story mach aboot» " I should
acmple rq>eating it, if Betty and the waiters at Arthnr'a did not talk of it poblidy."
*—— : " Wouki yon know what oflicer'a on guard in Betty's froit-shop?"
In derehuid-roir, cztendng from Bt James's-^treet to the Stable-yard of the Pelae^Theodore
Hook took a bandaome boaae hi 1827, wbidi be ftimished at the cost of 20001. or 9000L Then came
heavy embarraesmcnta, fai whidi be waa aariated by the liberalitf of liJa pobUahera, Bentlej and Col-
bon, and the sale of Ua ibaie to the Jokm BuU for 40002. While reaidhig in aerehmd-roir. Hook fell
hi with the Ber. Mr. Barham (Ingoldsby), who called caie day. Haynea Bayly waa then discnasing a
devilled kidney. Hook introdoced Idm, saying, ** Barbam — Mr. Bayly— there are aereral of the name :
this is not ' Old Bailey/ with whom yon may one dj^ become inthmiteL hot the gentleman whom we call
* Botterily Bayly' (m aUnaion to his song, *rd be a batterfly*"). "A misnamer. Hook," replied Bar-
ham ;" Mr. Bayly is not yet o«< of the Omft."
St. Jamxs'b-flace, west side of St. James's-street, was bnilt about 1694. Addison
k)dged here in 1712. Here also lived PameU, the poet; Mr. Secretary Craggs;
Bishop Kennett, the anticpiary, who died here 1728 ; John Wilkes lived here in 1756
"in very elegant lodgings;" and Mrs. Robinson, the channing actress, lodged at
No. 13. Lady Herrey lived in a honse bnilt for her by FUtcroft, afterwards occupied by
the Earl of Moira (Marqnis of Hastings). Spencer Hooae^ facing the Green Farl^
was designed by Yardy ; the figures on the pediment are by M. H. Spong, a Dane. At
No. 26 lived Lord Quildfind, who had hia library lined with snake-wood Irom Ceylon,
of whidi island he was Governor : the next tenant was Sir Frands Burdett» who
expired here Jan. 23, 1844^ of grief for the loss of his wife, who died thirteen days
previously. At No. 22, buHt by James Wyatt, R.A., lived, from 1806, until his death,
in 1855, Samuel Sogen, the poet : here Sheridan, Lord Byron, Sir James Mackintosh,
^ Conversation" ShaSrp^ and Thomas Moore, were often guests.
Mr. Boger^ choice coIleGtion of inctoree, acolptnre. Etnisean vases, antiqne bronzes, and literary
enrioBitiea, were to be seen throngb the introdaction of any aecredited artist or oonooisaenr. The
pointings included theee gema from the Orleana Gallery : Christ bearing the Croas (A. Saochi) ; ** Noli
brandini Palace ; Triomphal Procesaion (Bubena), after Andrea Mantegna; 8tw Joseph and the Inikut
SaTioor (Ifarillo): Landscapes by Baboii and Domenichino^ Gainsboroogh, and B. Wilson; Yiivia
and Child (Raphael) ; Knight in Armour (Giorgione) ; Allegory* and Forest »9ene, lonaet (Bembrandt) ;
Tirghi and ChUd,with sue Sainta (L. Caracci); a Mill, a small octagon (Gbmde); Head of Christ
erowned with thoma (Gtiido) ; Virgin and Child (Van Eyck): two largo oompoeitions (N. Poaasin)£
Sketch for Mary Miwaalen anointing the ftet of the Saviour (P. Veronese) ; Sketch for the Miracle of
fit. Mark (Tintoretto) : Study for ttie Apotheoeia of Charles V. (Titian) : Portrait of Himself (Bem-
brandt); infant Don Balthasar on horsebaok (Velasquez); the Evils of War (Bnbena); Virgin and
Child, a small miniature (Hemmelinck) ; three orii^nal Drawings (Raphael) ; black chalk Study
(Michael Angelo) ; Puck, the Strawberry Girl, the Sleeping Girl, Girl with Burd, Cupid and Psyche, and
the Painter's House at Bichmond (Sir Joshua Rqrnolda) ; Napoleon upon a rock at St. Helena (Hay-
don) ; and twelve Elizabethan miniatures. The paintings were Iwhted by hmtps with reflectors. Amcmg
the sculptures wore : Cupid pouting end Psyche couchmg, and Michael Angeio.and Baphael, statuettes
by Flaxman. Here also were seven pictures by Stothard (indnding a copy of the Canterbury PQgrims),
and a cabinet with his designs. Amonr the autographs was the original assignment of Drydoi's Ftr^ti
to Tonson, witnessed by Congreve. Mflton's sgreement with Symons for Faradw Lott, long poeeesaed
by Mr. Rogers, wss {nresentcd by him to the British Museum in 1852.
This collection was dispersed by auction, after the death of Mr. Bogers, 18th of
JEWS m LONDON. 483
Beoember, 1855, in his 93rd year, at hU house in St. James's-pkicey soROiinded by the
works of art which his fine tarte had brooght about him.
{See alao Faulcso, St. Jamxs'b } and S<ivmxbb, St. James's.)
JEWS IN LONDON.
rB Jews were settled in England in the Saxon period, aj>. 750. In 1189, great
numbers were massacred on the coronation-day of Richard L, when they lived in
the Jewries, extending along both iddes of the present Gresham-street to BasinghaU-
street, and Old Jewry on the east ; the first synagogue in the metropolis being at the
north-west comer of Old Jewry, which Stow describes as " a street so called of Jews
some time dwelling there and near a^oining." The only borial-plaoe app(Hnted them
in all England was the Jews' Garden, Redcross-street, Cripplegate; until 1177, the
24th Henry II., when a special place was assigned to them in every quarter where
they dwelt. (Siaw^ The nte of tiie present Jewin-street, Aldersgate-street^ anciently
** Leyrestowe," was granted them as a burial-place by Edward I. Capital punishment
waa Inflicted for comparatively small offences, and scarcely a day passed without an
execotion in the Cheap. To some extent, this universal bloodthirstiness may explain,
if it does not extenuate, the cruelties practised on the unfortunate Jews. For the
king to take " a nunety of thdr moveables," whenever he wanted money, was bad
oiough ; but on the doubtful charge of the wilful murder of a Christian child at Lincoln,
ninety-two Jews were apprehended, and dghteen of them '* were on the same day
drawn, and after the hoar of dinner, and towards the dose of the day, hanged." In
the week before Palm Sunday, in the year 1263, the Jewry in London was wantonly
destroyed, and more than five hundred Jews "murdered by night in sections" — ^none
escaping, seemingly, except those whom the mayor and the justiciars had sent to the
Tower before the massacre began. The g^und for this outrage (according to Fabyan)
was, that a Jew had exacted more than legal interest from a Christian. Fifteen yean
later no less than 293 Jews were '' drawn and hanged for dipimig the ann." In 1285,
more compendiously still, " all the Jews of England were taken and imprisoned, and
put to ransom on the morrow of St. Philip and James." finally, a few years after-
wards " it was provided by the King and his Coundl, upon prayer of the Pope, that
all the Jews in England were sent into exile between the Gale of August and the
Feast of All Saints, under pain of decapitation, if after such feast any one of them
should be found in England."
The Jews made no effort to return to England till the protectorship of Oliver
Cromwell, when they proposed to pay 500,0002. for certain privileges, including the
use of St. Paul's Cathecbal as a synagogue ; but 800,0002. was demanded, and the
negotiation was unsuccessfhl. They next applied to Charles II., then in exile at
Bruges, when the king proposed they should assist him with money, azms, or ammuni«
tion, to be repaid ; and Dean Tucker remarks, that the restoration of the Stuarts was
attended with the return of the Jews into Great Britain. The Jews themselves aver
that they received a private assent to their re-admission ; and Bishop Burnet assert/
that Cromwell brought a company of Jews over to England, and gave them leave to
build a synagogue. Dr. Tovey, however, in the Jewish registers, finds that, by their
own account, until the year 1663 the whole number of Jews in England did not exceed
twelve ; so that the date of their return must be referred to the reign of Charles II.
The first synagogue was built by Portuguese Jews, in King-street, Duke's-place, in
1656; and a school was founded by tbem in 1664, called "the Tree of Life." The
first German synagogue was built in Duke's-place in 1691, and occupied till 1790,
when the present edifice was erected.
The principal Jewish Cemeteries are two on the north side of the Mile-End-road
belonging to the Portuguese Jews, and a third to the German Jews. The old
Portuguese ground was first used 1657 : some of the tombs bear bas-reliefs from
Scripture ; as the story of Joseph and his brethren, Jacob wrestling with the angd,
&C. Near Queen's Elm, Fulham-roed, is also " the buiying-ground of the Westminster
Congregation of Jews," established 1816.
1^ Jewish quarter of the metropolis is bounded north by High-street, Spitalfieldt;
ZI2
484 CUBI08ITIE8 OF LONDON.
east Ly Middlescx-ttreet (Pettiooat-lane) ; eontli by LeadenhalUstreet, Aldgate, and
Whitecbapel ; and west by Bishopagate-gtreet.
The Clothes' Exchange of Cutler-street^ Hoondsditcb, is popularly known as Eag
Fair; throngh which most pass, at one stage or another, half the second-hand habili-
ments of the empire. The trade in renovated clothes, too, is very great^ so as to make
the epithet "worn-out" a popular error. Factitious arts make up the mighty
business of Kag Fair; and Bevis Marks has long been the Oporto of London, noted
for its manufacture of ** cheap port-wine."
Saturday in the Hebrew quarter is a day of devotion and rest : every shop is shut ;
and striking is the contrast between the almost conventual silence on that day of Bevis
Marks, Houndsditch, and St. Mary Axe, and the bustle of Whitechapel, Bishopegate^
and Leadenhall. How the Christian Sabbath is kept is denoted by such a notice as
this : '* Business will commence at this Exchange on Sunday morning at 10 o'clock.
By order of the mani^rs, Moses Abrahams." Again, from 8 to 12 o'clock on Sunday
morning, Duke's-plaoe is the great market for the supply of oramget to the itinerant
Jewish retailers.
The wealth of the leading Jews in London is veiy great, and their influence on the
money-market is overwhelming. Their shipping trade is very extensive. The largest
clothing-establishments are carried on by Jews. The trade in old silver goods, pictures^
old furniture, china, and curiosities, is chiefly carried on by Hebrew dealers.
Jews are admissible to all public offices and dignities, even to a seat in Parliament.
In 1828 baptized Jews were allowed to purchase the freedom of the City of London, a
privilege forbidden by the Court of Aldermen in 1785. Mr. David Salomons (1835)
and Sir Moses Montefiore (1887) served as Sheriffs of London, these being the
first Jews who filled that office; and Sir Moses is the first Jew who received a
baronetcy in Britain. Mr. Salomons was elected Alderman for Cordwainers' Ward in
1847, and is the first Jew who ever sat in the Court ; he served as Lord Mayor in
1857-8. Alderman Sir Benjamin S. Phillips* Lord Mayor, 1865-6, received knighthood
for his very able discharge of his duties, and the dignity he imparted to the office.
The Jews take care of theur own poor ; and their schools, hospitals, and asylums are
numerous. You may see many poor Jews* but never a Jewish beggar. In 1852, the
amount of offerings during the sacred festivals of the Kew Year, Day of Atonement*
&C., for the relief of the poor at the prindpal metropolitan Synagogues, were : — Qrest
Synagogue, Duke's-plaoe, 800^ ; Sephardim, ditto ; Bevis Mark^ 5002. ; New, ditto ;
Oreat St, Helen's* 600/.; Hamburgh, ditto; Fenchurch-street* 1502.; West London
ditto; Margaret-street, lOl, — ^total, 21202. The Western Synagogue* St. Albaa's-
place, has abolished offerings, substituting in lieu thereof a charge on the seats. In
1852 there wei'e distributed in Passover week to the poor of the Synagogues and the
itinerant poor, 55,000 pounds of Passover cakes, costing 9162. 13«. 4d»
The Rabbinical College, or Beth Hamedrash, SmithVbuildings, LeadenhaU-street,
contains one of the most splendid Jewish libraries in Europe, and is open to the
public by tickets : here lectures are delivered gratuitously to the public^ on Friday
evenings, by learned Jews.
Tk« Jtw^ Free Sehoolt founded In 181^ is a good specimen of the lealoos care with which the Jem
organize their institutions. This School originated in the general feelinflr then entertained of tlie
- ^ ^8
necessity of diffusing knowledge among the poor. Its founders adopted those parts of the variooa
n general use which appeared to them best (
; been conducted on a plan combining thdi
Dff flQl J reooffnised. Bany children, Uict i
idly about the streets, devoid alike of religion and knowledge, and who might easQy have been ensnared
r>or.
appeared to them best calculated to advance that ol^ect,
ud the school has all along Seen conducted on a plan combining their advantages, mutual instmctioa
on the monitorial plan being Ailly recognised. Bany children, ihej state, who would have wandered
Into courses of vice and infamy, have by means of this institution been instructed hi their religious
duties and the elementary branches of knowledge, and been thus trained to become respectable and
nseAil members of society. The School, greativ enlarged, is now established in Bell-lane, Spitalfields,
and for nearly half a century has diflfUsed the olessings of knowledae and m<n«]ity amone the pocv
Jews of the metropolis, according to the design of its founders and supportenu though of late years
the qrstem of education pursued m it has been somewhat modified and enlarged. The Berised Code
insists that every child presented shall satisly the inspector tn reading, writing, and arithmetic accord-
ing to a dasrification under six standards. In this department of the school Utt highest class was
examinod in the highest standard, a degree of proficiency which had not been attained in the first year
o( the operation of the Bevlsed Code by any other school in the country : making a small allowance Sot
onavoidAble absences, about 99 per cent, of those children presented passed suooesafhlly.
Jxwb'-bow, at Chelsea, has been made by WUkie the background of his picture of
8T. JOHN'S GATE, CLEBKENWELR 485
*' the Chelsea Pensioners reading the Gazette of the Battle of Waterloo," now in the
Dulse of Wellington's Qallery, at Apdey Hoose.
" Jews'-row has a TenietB-like line of mean publio-hoiues, lodging-hoosea, rag-shopi, and hnekater-
shops, on the right-hand, as yon approach Chelsea College. It is the Pall Mall of the pensioners ; and
its prqjeeting gables, breaks, and other picturesque attribntea were admirably suited, in the artist* s
opinion, for the looalitiea of the picture."— Jfrt. A. T, Thommm.
ST. JOHN'S GATE, CLBEKENWJELL,
IS nearly all that remains of the magnificent monastery of the Knights of St. John
of Jemsalem, that chivalrons order which for seven centuries *' was the sword and
bDckler of Christendom in the Paynim war." The priory was founded in 1100, and
was almost of palatial extent. King John rended here in 1212 ; and oar sovereigns
occasionally held ooandls here. Three acres of groand lying without the walls, between
the land of the Abbot of Westminster and of the Prior of St. John of Jerusalem, was
called No-man's Land. In November, 1826, Anthony d'Espagne, a wealthy merchant,
who collected a burdensome duty of 2#. a tun on wine, was dragged barefoot out of the
City, and beheaded by the populace on No-man's Land — a fitting name for the site of
snch an atrocity ! In 1382 the whole commandery was burnt by Wat Tyler^s mob ;
and the grand prior was beheaded in the courtyard, the site of St. John's-square, at
the southern entrance of which stands the gateway. Late in the fifteenth century, the
rebuilding of the monastery was commenced by Prior Docwra, who, according to
Camden, " increased it to the size of a palace," and completed this entrance about
1504^ *' as appeareth by the inscription over the gatehouse yet remaining" (Siow),
In a Chapter held here 11 Jan. 1514, Sir T. Docwra prior, a lease was granted to Cardinal Wolsej
of the manor of Hampton, which the most eminent physidans of England and learned doctors from
Padaa had selected as the healthiest spot within twenty miles of London for the site of a palace for
the cardinal. In this curious document {Cotton, JfSS. British Museum) is a grant of four loads of
timber annually for piles for the Hampton Weir, to be cut "in and tto Seynt John's Woode, Midd."
This grant is printea in the QwtUman'B Magazine, January, 1834
Docwra was grand-prior from 1502 to 1520, and was the immediate predecessor of
the Inst superior of the house, who died of grief on Ascension-day, 1540, when the
priory was suppressed. Five years subsequently, the ate and precinct were g^ranted to
John Lord Lisle, for his service as high-admiral ; the church becoming a kind of store-
house ** for the king's toyles and tents for hunting, and for the warres." It waa^
however, undermined and blown up with gunpowder, and the materials were employed
by the Lord Protector to King Edward VI. in building Somerset-place ; the Gkite would
probably have been destroyed, but from its serving to define the property. The Priory
was partly restored upon the accession of Mary, but again suppressed by Elizabeth. In
1604 the Qate was granted to Sir Roger Wilbraham for his life. Hollar's veiy scarce
etchings show the castellated hospital, with the old front* eastern side, towards St. John-
street, about 1640 ; also the western side, and Qatehouse.
At this time Clerkenwell was inhabited by people of condition. Forty years later
faishion had travelled westward ; and the Gate became the printing-office of Edward
Cave, who, in 1731» published here the first number of the Chntleman's Moffcuine,
which to this day bears the Gate for its vignette. Dr. Johnson was first engaged upon
the magazine here by Cave in 17S7 : " his practice was to shut himself up in a room
assigned to him at St. John's Gate, to which he would not suffer any one to approach,
except the compositor or Cave's boy for matter, which, as fiist as he composed, he
tumbled out at the door." (Hawkins.) At the Gate Johnson first met Richard.
Savage; and here in Cave's room, when visitors called, Johnson ate his plate of victuals
behind the screen, his dress being " so shabby that he durst not make his appearance."
One day, while thus concealed, Johnson henrd Walter Harte, the poet and historian,
highly praise the Lifa of Savage. Garrick, when he first came to London, frequently
called upon Johnson at the Gate; and at Cave's request, in the room over the great
arch, and with the assistance of a few journeyman-printers to read the other parts,
Garrick represented the principal character in Fielding's farce of the Mock Doctor,
Goldsmith was also a visitor here. When Cave grew rich, he had St. John's Gate
painted, instead of his arms, on his carriage, and engraved on his plate. After Cave's
486 0UBI08ITIE8 OF LOKDON.
death in 1754, the premiiei became the " Jernsalem" pablio-hooae, and the " Jenualem
Tavern."
The latter mine wm aesnmed from the JeruMoUm ToverM, Bed Lion-itreet, In whoee dank and cob-
webbed TEalta John Britten served an apprentioeahip to a wine-merchant : and in reading at intervals
}bj candle-ligiit, firet evinced that lore of literature which characterized hia long life of indnstry and
fntegri^. He remembered Clerkenwell in 1787, with 8t John's Priory-chorch and cloisters ; whea
8pa>fleldB were pasturage for cows; the old garden-mansions of the aristocraer remained in derken-
well<close; and Sadler's Wella, Islington Spa, Merlin's Cave, and Bagnigge WeUa, were nightly crowded
with gaj company.
In 1845, under the new Metropolitan Bnildings* Act^ a iiirvey of St. John's Gate
was made, and a notice given to the then owner to repair ifc : and by the aid of " the
Freemasons of the Chnrch/' and Mr. W. P. Ghriffith, architect, the north and aouth
fronts were restored.
The gateway is a good specimen of g^rcnning of the fifteenth century, with moulded
ribs, and bosses ornamented with shields of the arms of the Priory, Prior Docwra, &c.
The aonth or principal front has a double projection; has numerous small windows;
and a principal window over the crown of the arch in each front, in the wide and
obtusely-pointed style. The south fixint bears the arms of Franoe and England, and
the north or inner front those of the Priory and Bocwra. In the west side of the
gateway is an ancient carved oak doorhead, discovered in 1818, when that part of the
building (afterwards a coal-ahed) was converted into a watch-house for St. John's parish.
In the spandrels are the monastery arms, as also in a low door-case of the west tower
from the north nde of the Gate ; these spandrels also bear a cock and a hawk, and %
hen and a lion. This was the entrance to Cave's printing-office. The east basement
is the tavern-bar, with a beautifully moulded ceiling. The stairs are Elizabethan. The
prindpal room over the arch has been despoiled of its window-mullions and grcnned
roof. The foundation-wall of the Gate is 10 feet 7 inches thick, and the upper walls
are nearly 4 feet, hard red brick, stone cased : the view from the top of the staircsse-
turret is extensive. In excavating there have been discovered the original pavement^
8 feet below the Gate ; and the Priory walls, north, south, and west Other repairs
were commenced in 1866.
St. John's Church, in St. John's-square, is built upon the chancel and side aisles of
the old Priory-church, and upon its crypt ; the capitals of the columns, ribbed mouldings^
lancet windows, are fine ; from the key-stone of each arch hangs an iron lamp-ring :
in 1849, the crypt was found by excavation to have extended much further westward.
The turret-dodc belonged to old St. James's Church, as did also the silver head of the
beadle's sta£f (James II. 1685). Here, too, is a portable baptismal bowl, with a
scriptural inscription, and " Deo est sacris:" it was formerly used as the church font.
(See Te History of ye Priory and Gate of St. John, By B. Foster. 1851.)
The Gate is minutely described in Chapter X. of Pinks's History of Clerkenweli,
pp. 241-257, with eleven engravings, wherein it is stated: "to Mr. W. P. Griffith,
F.S.A., the inhabitants of Clerkenwell are deeply indebted for saving from positive
defiioement, if not from absolute removal, the Gate of the Priory of St. John."
A MANOR of Lambeth, is named from Saxon words signifying the place or town
of the king. Here, at a Danish marriage, died Hardiknute, in 1041. Here
Harold, son of Earl Gk)dwin, seized the Crown the day after the death of the Confessor,
and is said to have placed it on his own head. Here, in 1231, King Henry III. held
his court, and passed a solemn and stately Christmas; and here» says Matthew Paris,
was held a Parliament in the succeeding year. Hither, says Stow, in 1376,
came the Duke of Lancaster, to escape the fury of the populace of Ix)ndon, on
Friday, February 20, the day following that on which Wickliffe had been brought
before the bishops at St. Paul's. Hither also came a deputation of the chiefest
citizens to Richard II., June 21, 1377, ''before the old king was departed," "to
accept him for tlieir true and lawfull king and gouemor." Kenning^n was the occa-
ttonol residence of Henry IV. and VI. Henry YII. was here shortly previous to his
coronation. Leland tells us that Katharine of Aragon was here for a few days; after
KENNINGTOK 487
which the palace probably fell into decay : Camden, late in the rei^ of Elizabeth*
fiays, though erroneously, that " of this retreat of onr ancient Kings, neither the name
nor the ruins are now to be found." The early celebrity of the manor of Kennington
as a " Royal property " is attested to this day in the nam^ of Princc's-road and
Chester-place, which refer to the annexation of the manor to the Duchy of Cornwall, in
the reign of Edward III., who was here in 1389, from a document printed in the
FoBdera, tested by the Black Prince, then only ten years of age. James I. settled the
manor, with other estates, on his eldest son, Henry, Prince of Wales : and after his
decease, in 1612, on Prince Charles (afterwards Charles I.), and they have ever since
heen held as part of the estate of the Prince of Wales, as Duke of CornwalL Charles
was the last tenant of the palace, which was then taken down, and there was built on
the site a manor-house, described in 1666 as an old, low, timber building ; but of the
palace offices there remained the stable, a long building of flint and stone, used as a
ham : this was taken down in 1795. The palace, there is no doubt, stood within the
triangular plot of ground near Kennington Cross, now bounded by Park-place, Devon-
shire-street, and Park-street ; thick fragments of walls of flint, chalk, and rubble stone
intermixed, may yet be seen in the cellars of some houses in Park-place.
Kenmngton Common (about twenty acres) was formerly noted fbr its cricket-matches,
pugilism, and itinerant preachers, and as the exercise-g^und of volunteer regiments.
It was the common place of execution for Surrey, before the erection of the County
Oaol, Horsemonger-lane ; and on the site of St. ifark's Church, south of the Common,
some of the rebels of 1745, tried by special commission in Southwark, were hanged,
drawn, and quartered : among them was " Jemmy Dawson," the hero ot Shenstone's
touching ballad : and of another ditty, set to music by Dr. Ame, and sung about the
streets. On the Common was a bridge, called Merton Bridge, which was formerly
repaired by the Canons of Merton Abbey, who had lands fbr that purpose. — {Lyeone,)
?IBre was a theatre; for. Baker, in his Biographia DramcUica, edit. 1732, voL ii.
p. 239, say8» " the satyrical, comical, allegorical farce," t^e Mock Doctor, published in
8vo, in 1739, was ''acted to a crowded audience at Kennington Common, and many
other theatres, with the humour of the mob." Here G^rge Whitefield preached to
audiences of ten, twenty, and thirty thousand persons, as we learn from his published
diary, which is now scarce : ,
** Sanday, April 39, 1781. At five in the evening went and preached at Eennfaigton Common, aboat
two miles from London, where upwards of 20,000 people were supposed to be present. The wind being
for me, it carried the voice to the extremest part of the audience. All stood attentive and joined in the
Psalm and the Lord's Prayer so rej " ' "
church. Many were much affected.
Psalm and the Lord's Prayer so regularly, that I scarce erer preached with more quietness in any
any were
*' Sunday, If ay 6, 1781. At six in the eyenins went and preached at Kennington ; but such a sight
T never saw before. Some supposed there were above 30,000 or 40,000 people, andnear four score coaches,
besides great numbers of horses ; and there was such an awftil silence amonsst them, and the Word of
God came with sudi power, that aU seemed pleasingly surprised. I oontinuea my discourse for an hour
and a lialf.
" Friday, August 3, 1739. Having spent the day in completing my affidrs (about to embark for
America), and taUng leave of my dear friends, I preached in the evening to near 20,000 people at Ken-
nington Common. I chose to discourse on St. Paul's parting speech to tue elders of Ephesus, at which
the people were exceedingly affected, and almost preventea my making any application. Many tears
were shed when I talked of'^ leaving them. I conclude^ with a suitable hymn, but could scarce get to
tbD coach for the people thronging me, to take me by the hand, and give me a parting blessing."
On Kennington Common was held, April 10, 1848, the great revolutionary meeting of
*' Chartists," brought to a ridiculous issue by the unity and resolution of the metropolis,
backed by the judicious measures of the Qovernment, and the masterly military pre-
cautions of the late Duke of Welling^n. In 1852, the Common, with the site of the
Pound of the manor of Kennington, were granted by Act of Parliament, on behalf of
the P*rince of Wales, as part of the Duchy of Cornwall estate, to be inclosed and laid
out as " pleasure-grounds for the recreation of the public; but if it cease to be so main-
tained, it shall revert to the duchy." They comprise twelve acres, disposed in grass-
plots, and planted with shrubs and evergreens ; and at the main entrance have been
reconstructed the model cottages originally erected at the expense of Prince Albert for
the Great Exhibition of 1851 : the walls are built with hollow and glazed brick, and
the floors are brick and stucco; the whole being fireproof. At Kennington-green, in
1852, was built a large Vestry Hall, in semi-classic style, for the district of Lambeth.
In Kennington-lane is the School of the Friendly Society of Licensed Victuallers, built
1836; the &rst stone laid by Viscount Melbourne, in the name of King William IV.
488 CURIOSITIES OF LONDON.
KENSINGTON, 3E0MPT0N, AND KNIGSTSBRIDGE.
KENSTNOTON, a vile and a half west of Hyde P&rk-corner, ooniains the bamlets
of Brampton, Earl's-coort, the Gravelpits, and part of Little Chelsea, now West
Brampton ; bat the royal palace, and abont twenty other honses north of the road, are
in the parish of St. Margaret, Westminster. On the south side, the parish of Ken-
sington extends beyond Uie Gore, anciently Kyng's Gore, the principal honses between
which and Enigbtsbridge ara also in St Margarat's. The old church (St. Maiy
Abbot's) Bishop Blomfield used to designate the ugliest in his diocese.
The reioIntloD to build this church wm adopted by the ▼eetrr in 1098, and among the coo-
tribators were King WiUSsm III. and Qaeen M^ry, as well as the Princess Anne. The King
and Queen not only sobscribed to the building fund, bat presented the readin9>desk and jmlpit;
which have crowns carred upon them, with the initials w. and M. B. A curtained pew was
in consequence set apart for the Boyal family, and long continued to be occupied by reaidents
in Kensington Palace, among whom the Duke and Duchess of Kent and the late Duke of Cam-
bridge are still remembered. It inm 4n this church that the Duehesa of Kent returned thanks
after the birth of her present Mides^. In the parish books there are entries of the eipenses incurred
for ringing the church bells on all public occasions since the Revolution. Mr. THlberforoe. who resided
at Kensington-gore, is still remembered sitting in the pew appropriated to the HoUand-houae fiamUy.
George Canning miglit often be seen seated in the Royal pew. Coke, of Norfolk, had a pew here, whiot
he reralarly occupied. Nassau Senior, the political economist, resided at Hyde-park-gate, and W^. M.
Thackeray occupied a house which he had planned and built for himself in Palace-green, where he died
December, 1863. These eminent writers both attended the early service at half-past nine. When Lord
Macaolay came to reside at Holly-lodire. Caropden-hilL he desired to have a list of the parochial chui'
ties and a seat in tiie parish church. Although confined to the house by asthma during the winter, he was
re^ar in his attendmce during the summer ; he died at Holly Lodge, December 20; 1859. The church,
condemned as incapable of being long used for public worship, contains 114 monuments. {8«e p. 18L)
The extension of Kensington mostly dates from the enlargement of the royal palace;
thongh the mineral spring which it once possessed may have contributed to the celebrity
of the place. Holland House is described at p. 481. Nearly opposite, in the Kensing-
ton-road, was the Adam and five public-house, where Sheridan, on his way to or from
Holland House, regularly stopped for a dram ; and there he ran np a long bill, which
Lord Holland had to pay. {Moore's Diary.) Kensington Palace Gardens lead from
the High-street of Kensington to the Bayswater-road, and contain several costly
mansions, including one of German Gothic design, built for the Earl of Harring^n in
1852. On Campden Hill is the observatory of Sir James South, one of tlie fonnders
of the Royal Astronomical Society : among the working instruments are a 7-feet tranat
instrument, a 4-feet transit circle, and one of the equatorials with which, between
1821 and 1823, Sir James South (at Blackman- street, Southwark) and Sir John
Herschel made a catalogue of 880 double stars. In Little Chelsea was bom, in 1674^
Charles Boyle, fourth Earl of Orrery, patron of Graham, who constructed for the Earl
an orrery, which was named after his lordship.
In Orbeirs-buildingR, Kensington, lodged Sir Isaac Newton from January, 1725, until his death,
March 20, 1727, in his Soih year. His body, on March 28, h^ in state in the Jerusalem Oiamber, and
was thence buried in Westminster Abbey.
Leigh Hunt has written a remarkably pleasant account of Kensington, under the title
of The Old Court Suburb. Here are the old mansions, Kensinffton Some and A%
House, described at p. 447. Campden House is described at p. 445.
Here was the JEist/* Arwu ToMm, the last place in or about London where the old ooffec*hou8e styl<>
of society was still presenred, and where members of the legislature and a high class of gentry were to be
met with in rooms open to "the town." It was patronized for many years by the mnily at Holland
House, and Moore, in his Dimy, alludes to it It was much frequented by members of ths London
Clubs. Among them was " Vesey junior^' (Lord Eldon's Law Reporter), who preserved his forensic
name to his eightieth year. Flaxman, the sculptor, was fond of retiring thither, and alwi^s dintMi in
one of the small rooms looking over the gardens ; and it was there also that ** the Doctor** (William
Maginn) was to be ibund in his best conversational mood.— Press Iteu>tpaper.
At Gore House, Kensington Gore, Mr. Wilberforce resided from 1808 to 1831.
He writes : — ** We are just one mile from the turnpike at Hyde Park Comer, baring
about three acres of pleasure-ground around our house, or rather behind it ; and several
old trees, walnut and mulberry, of thick foliage. I can sit and read under thuir shade
with as much admiration of tJie beauties of nature as if I were 200 miles from the
great dty." Thithor camo Clarkson, Zachary Macaulay, Komilly, and others, to
KENSINGTON, BROMPTON, AND KNIOHTSBBIDOE. 4S9
commune with Wilberforce on mearartt for the abolitiOD of slftvery. He often allndet
to Ilia " Kensington Oore breakfasts." He was mach attached to the place, but its
costliness made him nneasy lest it should compel him to cortail his charities. The
Countess of Blesnngton Tended at Gore Honse for the same period as Mr. Wilberforce
—thirteen yean. In her time the place retained mnch of its picturesqneness, of
which there is an interesting memorial; — a large view in the grounds, with portraits
of the Duke of Wellington, Lady Blesnngton, and other celebrities, including Count
D'Orsay, the punter of the picture. Lady Blessington's Curiosities were sold hero in
1849. The bouse was opened by Soyer as a restawani (" Symposium ") during the
Exhibition of 1851. In the Temple Bar Magaxtne, Mr. Sala has described, in his
very clever manner, what he saw and thought, whilst for " many moons he slept, and
ate, and drank, and walked, and talked, in Gore House, surrounded by the veiy
strangest of company." In 1852, the Gore House estate, twenty-one and a half acres^
was purchased for 60,0002., and the Baron de Villars's estate, adjoining, forty-eight
acres, fronting the Brompton-road, was bought for 1&3,5002.» by the Commi^oners of
the Great Exhibition of 1851.
The rellow ntTel of Hyde Park and KeDsinffton, so often found covering the London elay, is, com-
TmraiiTely apeskinff, of very modem date, and consists of slightly rolled, and, for the most part,an^Uur
f.-acfmenta, m which portions of the white opaque coating of the original chalk-flint remain uncovered.
—air CkarUt IfM, F.QjS.
The eastern extremity of the Gore, now the nte of Ennismore Gardensi, is the
hiprhest point of ground between Hyde Park-comer and Windsor Castle. (Faulkner's
KemingUm^ Kingston, next Ennismore, and now Listowel, House, was the residence
of the Dncbess of Kingston, " the notified Bet Cheatley, Duchess of Knightsbridge^"
who died here in 1788. Here in 1842 died the Marquis Wellesley ; in the corridor
is a large window, a garden-scene, painted by John Martin when he was a pupil of
Muss. At Old Brompton, upon the site of the Florida Tea Gardens, was Orford
Lodges built for the Duchess of Gloucester, and subsequently tenanted by the Princess
Sophia of Gloucester, and the Right Hon. George Canning, who was here visited
by Queen Caroline. The house was afterwards called *' Gloucester Lodge," and was
taken down in 1852. Here also was Hale or "Cromwell" House taken down in
1853. The large space of g^und between the Kensington and Brompton roads in-
cluded the Brompton Psrk nursery ; and here (in 1858) were remains of the wall of
Brompton Park. Brompton Hall, mostly modem, has a noble Elizabethan room,
wherein Lord Burghley is said to. have received Queen Elizabeth. In the hamlet of
Earl's Conrt> about 1764, John Hunter, the eminent surgeon, built a house, in which
he lived for nearly thirty years. The house and grounds (where Baird was '* surprised
to find so many living animals in one herd from the most opposite parts c^ the
habitable globe ") remain to this day.
SoxfTH KiKBiNOTON IS the district lying south of the main Kensington-road, the
nucleus being the Gore Honse estate above mentioned ; added to whidi were Gray's
Nursery Grounds, Park House, Grove House, and various market'gardens ; the grounds
of CromweU House and other lands belonging to the Earl of Harrington and the Baron
de Villars, in all eighty-six acres, for 280,000/., at an average of 3250^ an acre. Old
footpaths, &&, were stopped, and houses removed, and nearly two miles of new road-
way formed the chief lines surrounding the best part of the Estate— >namely, the
Cromwell-road, the Exhibition-road, and the Prince Albert-road, forming with the
main Kensington-road, four sides of a square. Thereon is now in progress of erection,
" the South Kensington Museum," to be described under Museums. About twelve
acres have been let on building leases, and are covered with lines of lofty and handsome
houses, the Commissioners nearly doubling thdr original capital by the above specula-
tion. They next let th^ upper part of the gpreat centre square, about twenty-two
acres, to the Horticultural Sodety. {See GAUDXNS,p. 370). Next was erected, south
of the Horticultural Society's Gairdens, tho buildings for the InternaUonal Exhibitiou
of tho year 1862.
The main baildlofr designed Iqr Captain Fowke, R.E., oceni^ed abont sixteen acres of gronnd : it
neaiored aboat 1200 net from east to west, by 600 reel Arom north to lonth. The whole of this (pround
wttoorered byboUdingBof bilek, iron, and glass j and two long strips of groond, east and west^wsre
400 0UBI08ITIE8 OF LONDON.
roofed In 1^ tbe temporary dieds, or atuuxh, in which were shown maohinery, and large and heary
oluecta, thu additional area extending to aeren acrea. The interior space, covered br roob of Tazioas
heights was divided into nave, tranaepts, aisles, and open conrts : the latter were roond with glasa, hot
the other parte had opaque rooC^ and were lighted by olerestoiy windows. The sooth front, in Cromwell-
road, 1160 feet long, and 66 feet high, was of orick, had two prdeoting towers at each end, and a larirei'
centre tower, in wluch was the main entrance to the Piotore Galleries, oeing about as long as the Qalierj
of the LooTre, in Paris. In the east and west flronts rose a dome to a heiffht of 260 feet Under each
ooble arched recess was the entrance to the Industrial Coorto, and in each ^fmpan was a great rose-
window. At the extreme north and south were two auxiliary Picture Galleries. The only portions of
the bnildinff which resembled the Crystal Palace of 1861, were the six ooorts north and aonth of the
naTe ; they nad glass rooft on the ridge-and-Talley plan, supported by square iron colnmna and wroairht-
Iron trelUs-girders. Each dome was at the intersection or the nave and transepta, and was of glass,
with an outer and inner gallery. The interior was yariously coloured, and relieved with gold, medal-
lions and inscriptions; the decorations beneath the dome were grand, harmonious, and rich; and the
view beneath the nave, 800 feet in length, remarkably efifectlTe. The Exhibition, based upon that of
1861, embraced thirtjr-slx classes, besides those of the Fine Arts. It was opened with befitting cere-
monV, May 1, 1862, oy the Duke of Cambridge, by command of the Queen, whoee absence—through
the death of the great originator. Prince Albert— greatly dimmed the state pageant. About 22,000 ex-
hibitors were here represented, of whom about 17,000 were subjects of Her Migesty. and 6p0O of foreign
States. The absence of artiiac treatment hi the plan of the building, the ffeneral elevation, and the
exterior ornamental details, were very olgectionable. Still, under many aq)ressinff influenoee^ tbe
Exhibition proved nnmeri<»Ily and practically a success; the manuActures of the United Kingdom
•bowed not merely a gratuying advanoe iqwn those of 1861, but a still greater improvement as com-
pared with thoee of other countries; oommerdaUy, the exhibitors largely benefited by the sale of
works of industrial and fine art, home and foreign. A compact acoount of the Intemati<HiBl Exhibition,
1862, will be found in the extra volume of the Year-book t^ Facts, pp. 962.
In tbe construction of the building 4000 persons were employed ; the buildings were insured for
400,000^. at a cost of 33002. ; the prizes to exhibitors were declared July 11 ; the Exhibition was closed
Nov. 1 ; Great Exhibition Memorial to Prince Albert inaugurated June 10, 1863. The buildings have since
been taken down, except the Picture Gidleries, in wolch has been held the Nations! Portrait Exhibition.
Bbomptok has long been frequented by invalids for its genial air. (See Gov-
6TTUFTI0N HOSPITAL, p. 43, and Holy Tbivity Chubch, p. 208.) At No. 7,
Amelia-place, died, in 1817, the Right Hon. J. P. Curran. In Brompton-sqnare, at
No. 13, died Charles Incledon, the singer, 1826 ; and in the same year, at No. 22,
Qeorge Colman the yoang^r. At the Grange, taken down in 1842, lived Braham,
the singer. At No. 45, Brompton-row, Coant Ramford, the heat-philosopher; Rev. W.
Beloo, the *' Sexagenarian ;" and Sir Richard Phillips, when writing his Million of
Faett, At No. 14^ Qaeen's-iow, Arthur Mnrphy died in 1805, aged 77. Tho
National School-honse attached to Brompton Church was built in 1841, in tbe Tudor
style, by Qeorge Godwin, F.R.S., architect. Brompton was once fiimous for its
taverns ; southward, among " the Groves," were the Hoop and Toif, the Floridoy and
other tea* gardens ; at Old Brompton there remains the Swan, with its bowling-green*
In a retired and well-appointed house, eastward. Mademoiselle Jenny Lind resided,
during the zenith of her well-earned fame as a songstress.
KmoHTSBBiDGB, or Eingsbridge, which is the more andent name is doubtful. In
a charter of Edward the Confessor, the wood at Kyngesbyrig is referred to. In a
charter, not royal, namely one of Abbot Herbert, of Westminster, less than a century
thereafter, occurs the name of Knyghtsbrigg. In Domesday it formed part of three
manors — Neyte, Hyde (whence the name of Hyde Park), and £ybury, now spelt
Ebury, which came by marriage to the Grosvenor family, and has been chosen as a
title by one of its members. There is a tradition as to '' Knightsbridge," namely,
that two knights, on the way to Fnlham, to be blessed by the Bishop of London,
quarrelled and fought at the Westbourn Bridge, and killed each other on the spot. A
commentator of Norden, the topographer, too, gives the following anecdote : " Einges-
bridge, commonly called Stonebridge, near Hyde Park-comer, where I wish no true
man to walk too late without good guard, as did Sir H. Enyvett, knight, who valiantly
defended himself, there being assaulted, and slew the master-thief ■ with his own
hands." Still, we have the fact that the place was called "Knyghtsbrigg" in a
formal charter (that of Abbot Herbert), long before the time to which either of these
traditions could apply.
The bridge whence the place partly derived its name was one thrown across the Westbourn, which,
rising at West-End in Hampstead, and giving its name to a district of Bajswater, flowed through the
(artificially widened) Serpentine to the Thames. Its course may yet be traced on any map of London
by the irr^olarities it has caused in iayinff out Belgravia. Part of it was an open brook so lately as
1S6^ but it is now wholly covered in ; and is, we need not say, a common sewer, like the Oldbonme or
the Fleet. Pont-street, which opens Belgraria to Sloane-street^ most derive its name lh)m the tact
that it was at one time one of the few bridges over the Westboume. This brook nsed formerly to over-
KNI0ET8BBIDGE. 491
flow after heavy Tains. One sach flood is remetnbered in 1809, when for levenl daye pasaengen had to
l>e rowed from Chelsea to Westminster by the Thames boatmen.
The Knigbtflbridge road was infbbted by footpads, so that even so late as 1799 a
party of tight horse patrolled nightly from Hyde Park-comer to Kensing^n; and it is
^wltliin the memory of some still alive that pedestrians walked to and from Kensington
in Ixinds snfficient to ensure mutual protection, starting at known intervals, when a
l>ell was rung to announce the proper time. It was not even safe to sojourn at the
clifiiige-houses or inns which stood by the way, for these were the haunts of the high-
-waymen. The water supply of the hamlet was anciently by means of springs and
-wellsi, which were very numerous, pure, and valuable. Doubtless, the Westboum was
also of great use to the inhabitants. In the beginning of the eighteenth century, a
conduit was formed within Hyde Park, by permission of the Crown, for the supply of
Pork-side ; and in the fields on each side of Botten-row there was a row of conduits,
tlie waters of which were received by one at the end of Park-side, known as St. James's
or the Receiving Conduit: these supplied the royal re«dences and the Abbey. A.
spring in Hyde Park, in the time of James I., was allowed to supply the Lazar-house
(now Trinity Chapel, described at p. 216) by " a pipe of lead bringinge the sayde
springe of water to the sayde house." — Builder.
West of St. George's Hospital, at No. 1^ John Liston, Ihe comedian, lived several years, and here
be died, March 22, 1846. Liston was bom in Norris-street, Haymarket, in 1770, and was educated in
Archbishop Tenison's school : he first appeared on the stage, at the Haymarliet Theatre, in 1806; and
retired at the Olympic Theatre in 1837 : he died worth 40,0002.
In 1842, opposite the Conduit in Hyde Park, was built the St. George's Gallery,
Ibr the exhibition of Mr. Dunn's Chinese Collection; subsequently occupied by 1^.
Oordon Cnmming's African Exhibition, and Bartlett and Beverley's Diorama of the
Holy Land. The Gallery was then taken down.
The ori^nal entranoe was copied from a Cliinese sommer-honse, insoribed '* Ten thousand Chinese
tbisffs." This Collection, formed by Mr. Nathaniel Donn, hi twelve years, and first exhibited in Phil*-
delpnia, consisted of a yast assemblage from China of its idols, temples, pagodas, and bridges; arts and
edenoes, manoftfCtores and trades; parlours and drawing-rooms; clothes, flnerr, and ornaments;
'weapons of war, vessels, dwellingiu Ac Here were life-size groups of a temple of idols, a ooonoil of
mandarins, and Chinese priests, soldiers, men of letters, ladies of nnk, tragedians, barbers, shoemakers,
blacksmiths, boat-women, servants, &o., amidst set icenes and fhrnished dwellings. Here was a two-
storied house from Canton, besides shops flrom its streets | here were persons <n rank in sumptuous
costumes, artisans in thehr working-olotnes, and altogether such a picture of Chinese sodal life as the
European world had never before seen. Part of tiie collection was subseauently exhibited in 1861, in a
gay pavilion built for the ocoft^on west of Albert Gate; the rite of whicn is now occupied by a hand-
some five-storied mansion.
Westward is Albert-gate, Hyde Park, opened 1846 : the stags upon the jners were
formerly at the Banger's Lodge, Green Park, and were modelled from a pair of prints
by Bartolozzi. The ground, with the site of the large and lofty houses east and west^
was purchased by the Crown from the Dean and Chapter of Westminster, when the
Cannon Brewery was removed : the house east was bought for 15,0002. by Mr. Hudson,
then " the Railway King." It is now the residence of the French Embassy.
Knightsbridge Green is identified as the burial-pit of the victims of the plague in
ibe lazar-house and the hamlet generally. On the Green was erected, in 1864^ the
New TattersctWe removed from " the Comer," for the increased accommodation and
comfort of the Jockey Club, its subscribers, and the general public
The plot of ground upon which it stands is nearly two acres in extent. It is approached firom the
east by Knightsbridge-green, and WiAfofode consists of two square wing-blooks, divided by a pedimented
gateway, carved, and two side entrances. The subscription-room is a saloon 00 ft. by SO ft, with a
dear heiffht of 26 ft 6 in. : lighted by d»r by two large domes 18 ft high, covered with lunettes.
A third dome is in the centre of the ceilm^. in which an enormous sun-burner is placed by niiri^t.
These domes are bordered by a beautifiil guUlodte pattern, and enriched with coloured devices. The
walls are decorated in the same pattern. The spacious fioor is paved, in a tastefhl geometric pattern.
A raised dais, about 6 in. in hei^t, surrounds tnis apartment It is skirted and eaged with marble.
Under each of the two extreme domes a large octagon slab of marble supports the desks used for re-
cording wagers or writing letters. At the south-west corner is an area of about 70 ft. by 40 ft. for open-
air betting, with a telegraph office. The grand or central entranoe leads into the principal public yard,
appropriated to sales by auction. In the centre of this area is the old and fiunilis^ temple of the othn
premises at Hvde Park-comer, covering the aqueduct with its fox and the bust of George IV. when in
early life ; and in the north-west comer, is the well-known pulpit of the auctioneer. The whole yard is
covered bv a gigantic roof of Hartley's patent glass.
At Rutlsna Gate (on the site of a mansion of the Dukes of Rutland) is the house where John Sheep*
shanks, i£sq., fbrmed his collection of 228 pictures (with two exceptions), by modem British artistas
including 6 works by A. Calloott, SJL j W. ColUns, B.A., 7; John Constable, B.A., 6; C. W. Gopt^
492 CURIOSITIES OF LONDON.
a.A^ 7; W. Etty, R.A., 2; Edwin Lanctoeer, R.A.. 9; C. Leslie, B.A., 9 ; Vf. Mnlready, R.A., 15; W. Red-
nuxe, R.A., 6; C. Stanfield, R.A., Sj J.M. W. Tnrner, R.A.. 6; T. Uwins, B.A., 4; T. Webiter, B.A., 5.
The oolleetion waa bequeathed by Mr. Sheepahanks to the National Gallery.
In Sigh.road, between the Green and Rutland-gate, are the oldest houses in the
hamlet. Chatham House is dated 1688. Three doors beyond it is The Ease and OeMim
inn, formerly Oliver Cromwell, the frout of which is emblazoned with the great Pro-
tector's arms. There is a tradition that his body-guard was once quartered here ; as well
as of its having sheltered Wyat, while his unfortunate Kentish followers rioted on the
adjacent green. At the comer of South-place is the Phoenix Floorcloth Manufactory, tba
earliest established, founded by Nathan Smith, 1754; burnt down 1794; rebuUt 18^:
at the north end is a clock, with a figure of Time, cut in stone. At Kent Honse
resided for a few years the Duke of Kent, who largely added to the original house.
Stratheden House was the town residence of Lord Campbell and Lady Stratheden :
liord Campbell died here, June 23, 1861, aged eighty-one : the first volume of his lAvee
of the Chancellors is dated from this house.
In Sigh-roto stood the noted Fos and Bull Tavern, of the time of Queen Elizabeth,
and noted for its gay company to our time. The house is referred to in the TaiUr,
No. 259. Sir Joshua Reynolds, Sir W. Wynn, the patron of Ryland, and George
Morland, were viritors here; and Sir Joshua painted the sign, which hung till 1807,
when it was destroyed in a storm. The Elizabethan house was panelled and carved
and had enriched ceilings ; and its immense fire-dogs were not disused till 1799. In a
house westward lived Lady Anne Hamilton ; then Mr. Chalon and Mr. Davies, both
artists of repute ; and next Mr. White the naturalist, who had here a menagerie. Mr.
Woodbum, ttie connoisseur in ancient art, once lived here; and the staircases still beitr
evidence of the artistic tenancy.
Ozias Humphry, R.A., rended many years at Knightsbridge ; he died at 13, High-
row, in 1810. At the west end of the row is the Horse Guards' Barracks, built in
1795, and capable of accommodating 600 men and 600 horses. Bensley, the actor,
who in early life had been in the army, was appointed barrack-master, which appoint-
ment he held till his death, in 1817. Hard by are the stables built for the Duke of
Wellington : Hardwick, architect. In Park-row resided, about 1828, Olive, the soi-
disant Princess of Cumberland, and next door. Sir Richard Phillips. (Abridged chiefly
from Davis's Memorials of Knightsbridge, 1859.)
Lowndes-square oocupies the site of a famous place of amusement — Spring Gardens,
so called after the still more celebrated Spring Gardens at Charing-cross : the
World's End, at Knightsbridge, mentioned by Pepys and Congreve, is supposed to
have been a synonym of this fiuhionable house of entertainment. The building itself
survived till 1826. There was another famous place of entertainment in the same
neighbourhood, called Jenny's Whim. Its site is now occupied by St. George's-row,
near the Chelsea Water-works; and the house, distinguishable by its red-brick and lat-
tice-work, was not removed until November, 1865. Angelo says it was established by
a firework-maker, in the reig^ of George I. ; here were a large breakiast-room, bowling-
green, alcoves, and arbours ; a fish-pond, a cock-pit^ and duck-hunting pond ; a grotto,
and a decanter of Dorchester for sixpence ; a large garden with amuwng spring
deceptions; and a piece of water with large fish or mermaids.
Knightebridge-grove, approached through a stately avenue of trees from the road,
was a sporting house, whore the notorious Mrs. Comelyus endeavoured to retrieve her
fortunes after her failure at Carlisle House; but she again failed in 1785. Ten years
after, she reappeared at Knightsbridge as Mrs. Smith, a retailer of asses'-milk, in a
suite of breakfast-rooms — but in vain.
The existence of Belgravia only dates from 1825. Before that, the district was a
marshy tract, bounded by mud-banks, and partly occupied by market-gardens. The
ntes of Belgrave and Grosvenor Squares were nursery-grounds. Grosvenor Bridge,
where the King's-road crosses the VVestboume, was not built till the time of Charles II. ;
and it was long called Bloody Bridge, from the number of murderous robberies there
committed. It is curious that the whole of this district was built over, not gradually,
but in two distinct movements— one from 1770 to 1780, and the other, aftor a pause
of nearly fifty years, beginning in 1825, and still in operation.
KENSINGTON 0AEDEN8. 493
KENSINGTON GARDENS.
THESE delightfiil gardens, which, in our time, included an area of above 350 acrea^
did not, when pnrchafled by William III., soon after bia accession, exceed 26 acres,
which be added to Hyde Park. In 1691 they were described by the Rev. Dr.
Hamilton, to the Sodety of Antiqnarien, as " not g^reat, nor abounding with fine plants.
The orange lemon, myrtle, and what other trees they bad there in summer, were all
removed to London or Mr. Wise's gpreeuhouse at Brompton Park, a little mile from
there." Queen Anne added 80 acres, and planted the design as we now have it.
Evelyn notes : " Sept. 2nd, 1701. — I went to Kensington aad saw the houses, plan-
tations, and gardens, the work of Mr. Wise, who was there to receive me.'' {Diary,
ToL ii. p. 75.) Bowack, in 1705, described the gardens as "beautified with all the
elegances of art (statues and fountains excepted). There is a noble collection of
foreign plants, and fine neat greens, which makes it pleasant all the year; the whole,
with the house, not bdng above 26 acres. Her Migesty has pleased lately to plant
near 80 acres more towards the north, separated Irom the rest only by a stately green-
house^ not yet finished." Thus, previous to 1705, Kennngton Grardens did not extend
farther north than the conservatory; and the eastern boundary was nearly in the line
of the broad walk which crosses before the east front of the palace. The kitchen
gardens, which formerly extended northward towards the gravel-pits, and the 80 acres
north of the conservatory, added by Queen Anne to the pleasure-gardens, may hare
been the 55 acres "detached and severed from the park, lying in the north-west
comer thereof," granted in the 16th of Charles II. to Hamilton, Banger of the Park,
and Birch, Auditor of Excise; the same to be walled and planted with "pippins and
red-streaks," on condition of their furnishing apples or cider for the King's use. At
the end of the avenue leading from the south front of the palace to the wall on the
Kensington-road, is a large and lofty architectural alcove, built by Queen Anne's
orders; so that Keujedngton Palace, in her reign, seems to have stood in the midst of
fruit and pleasure gardens, between the Kensuigton and Uxbridge roads. Addison, in
the Speetaior, Ko 477, dignifies Wise and London as the heroic poets of gardening,
and is enraptured with their treatment of the upper garden at Kensing^n, which was
at first nothing but a gravel-pit; the hollow basin and its little plantations, and a
circular mount of trees, as if scooped out of the hollow, g^reatly delighting the essayist.
Tickell opens his elegant eclogue with the oft-quoted glance at the morning promenade
of his day; wher&-"
" The dames of Britain oft in crowda repair
To gravel walks and unpolluted air :
Here, while the town in damps and darkness lies,
TheT breathe tn sunshine, and see azure skies ;
Each walks with robes of various dves bespread,
Seems from afiir a moving tulip-bed.
Where rich brocades and glossy damasks glow.
And chintz, the rival of the showery bow."
Queen Antu^e Banqnetinff'house, north of the palace, completed in 1705, is a fine
specimen of brickwork: the south f^nt has rusticated columns supporting a Doric
pediment, and the ends have semicircular recesses. The interior, decorated with
Corinthian colunms, was fitted up as a drawing-room, music-room, and ball-room ; and
thither the Queen was conveyed in her chair from the western end of the palace.
Here were given full-dress fdtes d la WatteaUf with a profusion of "brocaded robes,
hoops, fiy-caps, and fans," songs by the court lyrist, &o. But when the Court left
Kensington, Queen Anne's building was converted into an orangery and greenhouse.
{See Palaces.)
Caroline, queen of George II., formed the Serpentine, dividing the Palace grounds
from the open Hyde Park by a sunken fosse and wall, thus adding 300 acres to the
gardens or private grounds ; the ha-ha, now extending from the Bayswater-road to the
powder magazine, remaining identically as it was then formed. With the soil dug
was nused a mount to the south-east, with a revolving prospect-house. The Gardens
were planted and laid out by Bridgeman, who banished verdant sculpture, but adhered
to straight walks and clipped bodge, varied with a wilderness and open groves.
494 0UBI08ITIE8 OF LONDON.
A plan of 1762 shows the fbnnal Dntch style on the north of the palace. On the
north-east, a foate and low wall reaching from the Uzhridge-road to the Serpentine at
once shnt in the Gardens, and condncted the eye along their central Yista, over the
Serpentine (formed hetween 1730 and 1733), to its extremity ; and across the Park to
the east of Qneen Anne's gardens, immediately in front of the palace, a reserroir was
fbrmed into " the ronnd pond f* thence long vistas were earned through the wood that
encircled it, to the head of the Serpentine, to the fbose and Bridgeman's ha-ha wall,
affording a view of the Park ; and to the mount already mentioned, which, with i^
evergreens and temple, has disappeared within recollection. Bridgeman, " Surveyor of
the Royal Gardens," died in 1738 ; and was succeeded hy Samuel Milwaid and John
Kent. Kensington Gaidens long maintained its rural character ; for, in a minute ci
the Board of Green Cloth, 1798, we read of a penmon granted to a widow, whose hus-
band was accidentally shot while the keepers were hunting foxes in Kenangtan
Gardens.
After King William took up his abode in the palace, a court end of the town
gathered round it. The large gardens laid out by Queen Caroline were opened to the
public on Saturdays, when the King and Court went to Richmond; all visitors were
then required to appear in fullodress. When the Court ceased to reside at Kensington,
the Gardens were thrown open in the spring and summer ; and next open throughout
the year, as at present. On stated days in the London season, military bands per-
form. Here is a refreshment-room : " Gentlemen are requested not to smoke in the
vicinity of the music platform and refreshment room, as much complaint has been
made by visitors to the gardens in consequence of this practice.— Office of Works,
August 20, 1855.''
Of late years Kensing^ton Gkirdens have been greatly improved by drainage, re-laying
out, and the removal of walls and substitution of open iron railing. Viewed from
near the palace, eastward are three avenues through dense masses of andent trees.
Immediately in front of the palace is a qnuntly-deugned flower-garden, between
which and Kensington are some stately old elm-trees. The broad walk, 50 feet in
breadth, was once the fkshionable promenade. On the southern margin of the Gar-
dens is a walk, bordered by the newer and rarer kind of shrubs^ each labelled with its
Latin and English name, and its country. The most picturesque portion of the Gar-
dens, however, is at the entrance from near the bridge over the Serpentine, where is a
delightfiil walk east of the water, beneath some noble old Spanish chestnut-trees. The
elegant stone bridge across the west end of the Serpentine was designed by Sir John
Rennie in 1826, and cost 36,500^. A pair of magnificent Coalbrook-dale iron gates
(from the Great Exhibition of 1851) has been erected adjoining the southern lodge.
An unomamented gate has been opened in the Bayswater-road. In 1860, a ride
was formed in the Gardens, which had hitherto (except during the Exhibition year
1851) been kept from equestrian intrusion. In 1861 was formed another ride, adapted
only for summer, and entering Kensington Gardens from Hyde Park, through the
gateway in the south-western arch of the bridge; proceeding along the edge of the
Serpentine between a bank of rhododendrons and fine trees ; then through a broad
and shady avenue, and returning along an open space to the entrance-gate.
On this side of the Chirdens are the Ornamental Water-works, completed in 1861.
They consist of a small Italian garden, with an engine-house, 48 feet high, Italian in
style, and an engine to pump the water in to large reservoirs, with a jet in the centre
of each ; the tower end separated from the Serpentine by a screen, with vases ; and in
the centre a large octagonal fountain; the whole supplying the Serpentine. Hie
sculpture here is by John Thomas ; and the engineer of the water-works, Hawksley.
A large portion on the west side of the (Hrdens, including the extensive kitchen-
gardens (which date from 1738), pursuant to 5 Vict., c L, has been appropriated to a
«flne public road from Kensington to Notting-hill : here are several handsome man-
sions, the gardens of those on the west side extending to the old red-brick wall of the
Palace kitchen-gardens, which remains. By the formation of this road, Kensington
Palace Gardens, the royal gardens were reduced to 261 acres, their present extent.
Their effect is not exhilarating, but a relief to the in-dwellers of London.
KENT'STBEET, 80UTHWABK--KENn8E TOWN, 495
KJENT'STSEET, 80UTHWARK,
0RI6INALLT " EentiBh-fltreet," is a wretched and profligate part of St. George's
parish. In 1633 it was described as ** very long and ill-boilt, chiefly inhabited
by broom-men and mompers ;" and for ages it has been noted for its tomers* shops^
and broom and heath yards. Evelyn tells of one Barton, a broom-man, and his
wife, who sold kitchen-stnff in Kent-street, whom Ood so blessed that Bnrton became
a very rich and a very honest man, and Sheriff of Surrey. At the east end of Eent-
itreet, in 1847, was unearthed a pointed arched bridge <tf the 15th centnry, probably
erected by the monks of Bennondsey Abbey, lords of the manor. In Rooq[ne'8 Map^
1750 (when the Kent-road was lined with hedge-rows), this arch, called Lock's-bridge,
from being near the Lock Hospital, carries the road over a stream which runs from
Newington-fields to Bennondsey. Yet, what long lines of conquest and devotion, of
turmoil and rebellion, of victory, gorgeous pageantry, and grim death, have poured
through this narrow inlet of old London! The Boman invader came along the
rich marshy ground now supporting Kent-street (says Bagford, in a letter to his
brother-antiquary, Heame) ; thousands of pious and weaiy pilgrims have passed along
this causeway to St. Thomas's of Canterbury ; here the Bhidw Prince rode with his
royal captive from Poictiers, and the victor of Agincourt was carried in kingly state to
his last earthly bourne. By this route Cade advanced with his 20,000 insurgents
from Blackheath to Southwark ; and the ill-fiited Wyat marched to discomfiture and
death. To the formation of the Dover-road, in our time, Kent-street continued
part of the great way from Dover and the Continent to the Metropolis.
SmoDett^ in his TraotU, 1766, d«soribes " the avenoe to Lcodon bj the way of Kent-street, which is
a most disgraoeAil entrance to soch an opulent dty. A foreigner. In pasting through this beggarly
lod nunoos snbort), oonoeives soch an idea of misery and meanness, as all the wealth and mi^niflcenoe
of LoDdon and Westminster are afterwards unable to destroy. A friend of mine, who brought a Parisian
from Dover in his own post-chaise, contrived to enter Southwark after it was dark, that his friend
Bight not pooeive the ukedness of this quarter."
KENTISH TOWN,
A HAMLET of St. P&ncras, and a prebendal manor of St. Pfturs, was formerly
written Kaunteloe, and is the property of the Camden family. Here was the
CadU tavern, which had a Perpendicular stone chimney-piece ; the house was talcen
down in 1849 : close to its southern wall was a sycamore planted by Lord Nelson, when
a boy, at the entrance to his uncle's cottage ; the tree was spared. Opposit^ were
the old Assembly-rooms, taken down in 1852 : here was a table, with an inscripnon by
an invalid, who recovered his health by walking to this spot every morning to take
his breakfrut in front of the house. Kentish Town Chapel, originally built by Wyatt
in 1784^ has been enlarged and altered to the Early Decorated style : here is buried
Grignon, the engravjnr. {See p. 212.) In 1848, was built here a hurge Congregational
Nonconformist Chapel, in ecdenastical style. In Gospel-terrace is the Boman Catholic
Chapel of St. Alexis, established 1847. In 1848 were 'erected the National Infant and
Sunday Schools, by Hnkewill, upon the plan of the Committee of Privy Council on
Education; the site is part of an estate bequeathed by the witty divine, Dr. South, to
Christ Chivch, Oxford. Near Highgate Rise is the Orove, where Charles Mathews
the elder made his collection of paintings, prints, and other memorials of theatrical
history, now at the Garrick Club-house. Nearly opposite (at the comer of Swain's-
lane, leading to the Highgate and Kentish Town Cemetery— fee p. 82), was " a miiiia-
tnre Wanstead House" (the design copied from Wanstead House, Essex), the villa of
Mr. Philip Hurd, of the Inner Temple, who collected here a costly library, including
the celebrated Breviariwn Momanum, purchased by him, in 1827, from Mr. Dent's
library, for 2781. : it oonusts of more than 600 leaves of vellum, illuminated by Flemish
painters in Spain, of the fifteenth century, with miniatures and borders of flowers, fruit,
and grotesque figures, upon a gold ground. {See Dibdin's Bibliographical Decameron,
▼ol. i. pp. 163-7.) The villa was taken down in 1861, and upon the site ore built
handsome houses. Prom the rear of Mr. Hurd's house, some twenty-five years unce,
406 CURIOSITIES OF LOKDON,
not a boQM ooaM be neen, m nml was thii ndghboorfaood ; now little can be aeeii bat
bricks and mortar. The river Fleet, which nma in the rear of the hamlet, has its
aoarce from springs on the south side of the hill between Hampstead and Highgate^ In
July, 1846, were sold 27 acres of bnilding-gronnd in Gospel-Oak and Hve-Acr^ Fields,
between Kentish Town and Hampstead, for nearly 400Z. an acre. Beneath the Oo^»el
Oak preached some of onr earliest Reformers, and Whitefield the Methodist.
In the last eentmrf , the road between the metropoUi and Kentish Town was beeet with higbwajmeo.
In the Mormug CkromieU amd London Advtrtitar.JMMk. 9, 1773, wpean : ** Thandej night eome TiUaios
robbed the Kentiih Town etage. and stripped the petsengers of their money, watdtee, and buckle*.
In the harry thej spared Uie pockets of Mr. Corbyn, the druggist; bat he, content to have ndghboar's
Jhre, called oot to one of the rogoas, '8top^ friend, yoa hare forgot to take mj mon^ 1' "—IMm a»d
QjMTMt, No. 68.
The original "Mother Bed Cap," Kentisb Town, was a place of terror to travelleTt, and is belirred
to hare been the " Mother Damnable " of Kentish Town in early days ; at this house *' Moll Catporse,^'
the hlghwaynun of the time of Oliver CrcwnweU, dismoanted and Iheqaentlj lodged.— Smith's Book /or
• JKowy Dag, p. ao.
Camden Town, begnn 1791, bmlt on the estate of the Marquis Camden ; and Somers
Town, begun 1786, on the estate of Earl Somera— «re also hamlets of Paneras pariah,
and both are now nniied with London, and are portions of the metropolis.
Walpole writes, Jane 8, 1791 : " There will soon be one street from London to Brentford ; aj, and from
London to every village ten miles round 1 Lord Camden has Jost let ground at Kentish Town for
building fourteen hundred houses— nor do I wonder ; London is, I am certain, mach Ailla than evfr
I saw it I have twice Uils sprbig been going to stop my ooach in Picoadillj, to inquire what was the
matter, thinking there was a mob— not at all; it was only paisengers." ,
KILBXTRN,
A HAMLET about two and a half miles north-west from London, at the south-
western extremity of the parish of Hampstead, is named troax Cold-bonrne, a
stream which rises near West End, and passes through Kilbnm to Bayswater ; and
after supplying the Serpentine reservoir in Hyde Firk, flows into the Thames at
Ranelagh. Kilbum has its station upon the London and North- Western Railway. In
the last century, the place was filmed for its mineral spring (Kilbum Wells), wiiich
rises about 12 feet below the surfaee, and is endoeed in a brick reservoir, the door-arch
of which bears on its keystone 1714. The water is more strongly impregnated with
carbonic add gas than any other known spring in England. In 1837 was taken down
a cottage at Kilbum in which Oliver Qoldamith had resided. ^
Kilbom originated fkom Oodwyn. a hermit, who, temp. Henry n., boljt a cell near the little rivnlct
called Ontubuma, Zeelebomme, Ooldboume, and ZUbounu, on a dte surroonded with wood. Between
1128 and 1134^ Godwyn granted his hermitage and adjoining lands to the conventoal cfaorch of St. Peter
at Westminster, who soon after assigned the propor^ to Emmsi Gonllda, and Cristina, maida^-honoor
to Maod (qoeen of Henry I.), herself a Benedictin^nan: and hence the ceil of tlie anchorite became a
nunnery; Godwyn being appointed its master or warden, and guardian of tlie maldwis, for bis ilTe.
Certain estates were granted to the nuns in Soothwark and Knightsbridge (which manw stOl belongs
to Westminster), the latter property in the place called Gara, probablv Kensington Gore. ProviAons,
kitchen-lkre, wine, mead, and hem were also assigned; and in retom the vestals prayed for St. £dward
the Confessor, and the church at Westminster.
At tlie Dissolution, hi 1630, the '* Nonre of Kilboanie ** was surrendered : when tlie inventory shows
the chamber Aimiture to have included "bedsteddes, standing bedd wt 4 postes, fetherbedds, mattercs,
oov'lettes, wollen blankettea, bolstenupiUowes of downs, sheetes,'* tc. The name of the last prioress
was Anne Browne. Soon after the King assigned the priory estate^ with other lands, to Weston, prior of
the Hospital of St. John of Jerusalem, in exchange for Paris Garden in Sorrey, &e. The ehurch was
dedicated to St. Mary and St. John the Baptist; the latter, in his camel-hair garment, is portrayed on
the priory seaL The Abbey Farm at Kilbum includes tlie site of the priory: tlie only view known of
the conventual buildings is an etcliing, date 17221
Several relics, induding pieces of pottery, a few coins, and a bronze vessel, all
mediffivnl, were found on the Priory site in the autumn of 1852, and shown to the
Archax>logical Institute. In the Oraphio and Historical Illustrator, pp. 336-840; is
a good account of Kilbnm Priory, mostly derived &om Park's Sampstead,
LAMBETH,
ALSO called LamhUth, Lambhyde, and Lambhei, is probably derived from lam, dirt,
and hyd or hythe, a haven ; or from lamb and hythe. It was anciently a village
of Surrey, but is now united with Southwark ; and is one of the metropolitan boroughs,
retorning two members to Parliament nodur the Reform Act of 1832. The parish
LAMBETH. 497
ranges along the soDth bank of the Thames from Yanxhall towards Southwark, and
extends to Norwood, Streatham, and Croydon; in Aubrey's time it induded part of the
forest of oaks called Norwood, belonging to the see of Canterbury, wherein was the
Vicar's Oak (cut down in 1679), at which point four parishes meet.
In the earliest historical times, the g^reater part of modern Lambeth must have been
a swamp^ overflowed by every tide, and forming a vast lake at high water. The Romans
have the credit of having embanked the Thames on the south side, and of having done
sometliing towards draining the marsh. Boman remains have been discovered at St.
Creorge's Fields and at Kennington ; and some antiquaries have thought that it was
among the Lambeth marshes' that Flautius got entangled after his victory over the
Britons, and that he retired thence to the strong entrenchment still to be traced in the
picturesque upland of Keston, near Bromley. The great Roman road from the south
coast at Newhaven, through East Griusted to London, entered Lambeth at Brixton
{Srixii lapidem), crossed Kennington Common to Newington, and there divided ; the
eastern branch going to Southwarl^ and the western across St.Oeorge's Fields to Stangat^
where was a ferry. In 1016, Canute laid siege to London, and finding the east side of the
bridge impregnable, conveyed his ships through a channel (" Canute^s Trench") dug in
the marshes south of the Thames, so as to attack it from the 'west. Maitland, writing
in 1739, imagined that he had succeeded in tracing this canal frt>m Eotherhitbe to
Newington Butts, and thence to the river at VauxhaU. But two more probable and
fax shorter courses have been indicated for this chamiel, neither of which would reach
Lambeth at all. Is it not possible, we ask, that the draining works executed by
the Romans left certain water-courses which might have been made available for the
purpose of this stratagem by the invading fleet ? A few years later, in 1041, Kenning-
ton—^the " King's Town"— was the scene of the sudden death of Hardicanute. There
was a royal palace there, in which the nuptisls of two scions of noble Danish families
were celebrated. The King expired (says the Saxon Chronicle) '* with a tremendous
struggle" *' as he stood drinking^' — not without suspicion of poison. A popular holiday
commemorated this event for many generations ; and we have records of " Hog's Tide"
or '* Hock Tide" being kept as late as 1618. In Lambeth parish, the Churchwardens'
Accounts show entries, till 1566, of sums gathered at these festivsls and applied to the
repiurs of the church. HaroM, in 1062, granted the manor of Lambehythe to Waltham
Abbey ; andin Domesday there are mentioned twelve villans, twenty-seven bordars, a
church, and nineteen burg^esses in London, and wood for three hogs ; and the value of
the manor is stated at 111. It passed, after sundry changes, to Bishop Qnndulph, of
Rochester, who taxed it with an annual supply of 600 lampreys ; and his successor
demanded, in addition, a yearly salmon — t^be caught of course off the river boundary.
In 1197 the manor came by exchange into the hands of the Archbishops of Canterbury,
with whom it has remained ever since. King John g^ve leave for the establishment
within it of a weekly market and a Fair of fifteen days, on condition that it would not
be prejudicial to the City of London. Tliis Fair was suppressed by Archbishop Herring in
1757. A strange attempt was made, at the close of the twelfth centuiy, by Archbishop
Baldwin, to found somewhere in Lambeth a ooUegiate church of secular canons which
should humble the refractory monks of Canterbury by superseding them in their right
of election to the metropolitan see. The scheme was vdiemently opposed, and f ope
Celestine bdng prevailed upon to withdraw the sanction g^ranted by his predecessor
Urban, the building^ were razed by the mob. After many intrigues, the design was
finally abandoned. We derive this pricis of the early history of Lambeth from a
paper in the StUmrday Seview,
Lambeth mother-church (St. Mary's) adjoins the Palace, and is described at p. 185.
Beneath its walls, Mary, queen of James II., found shelter with her infant son, having
crossed the river by the horse-ferry from Westminster : here the Queen remained a
whole hour in the rain on the night of December 9, 1688, until a coach arrived from
the next inn, and oonv^ed her to Qravesend, whence she sailed for France. St.
Mary's Church was rebuilt in 1851-2« save the tower, in the same style as fbrmerly,
except the open timber roof. Memorial and other windows are filled with stained
glass; "the Pedhir and his Dog" has been replaced, and the tombs and monumental
brasses have been restored, ^e district chun^hes have little that is noteworthy.
498 CURIOSITIES OF LONDON.
The rite of SL Joka^t, Waterioo-nMul, was a swamp and hone-pand : the chnrch (boflt 1889-4) baa a
Eof eight belli, tenor 1900 lbs. weight: in a Tault is buried Robert William EUistan, the comedian
831). The district commences at the middle of Westminster Bridge, whence an imaginary boon-
•line passes throogh the middle ci the river Thames to Waterloo Bridge.
On the soath side of Churcb-streefc was Norfolk House, the maDsion of the Earl of
Norfolk temp, Edward I. : here resided the celebrated Earl of Sarrey when under the
tuition of John Leland, the antiquary. The house has long been demolished, and its site
and grounds occupied by Norfolk-row and Hodges's distillery. The Dukes of Norfolk
also had in Lambeth, on the banks of the Thames, a garden, which was let to Boydell
Cuper, who opened it as Cuper's Gardens, and decorated it with some firagments of the
Arundelian marbles, given him by the Earl of Arundel, whose gardener he had been.
Other fragments of the sculptures were set up in a piece of ground adjoining, and
afterwards were buried with rubbish from the ruins of St. Paul's Catheibal, then re-
building by Wren; but the sculptures were subsequently dinnterred, and the site was
let to Messrs. Beaufoy for thdr Vinegar-works — ^removed to South Lambeth on the
erection of Waterloo Bridge.
Carlisle Street, Lane, and Chapel, keep in memory Carlisle Houses the palace
of the Bishops of Rochester from the thirteenth to the sixteenth century, when
Henry VIII. g^ranted it to the see of Carlisle. Here, in 1531, Richard Boose or Rose,
a cook, poisoned seventeen persons ; for which he was attainted of treason and boiled to
death in Smithfield, by an ^x poet facto law passed for the purpose, but repealed in the
next reign. On the grounds of Carlisle House was subsequently built a pottery,
which existed tetfip, George II. The house then became a tavern, brothel, dancing-
school, and academy; and was taken down in the year 1827.
Lambeth has long been celebrated for its places of public amusement. VcMxhaU
Gardens are mentioned by Evelyn, in his Liary, July 2, 1661 : ** I went to see the
New Spring Gkirden, at Lambeth, a pretty contrived plantation;" and the place was
to the last licensed annually as " the Spring Garden, Vauxhall." It was finally dosed
in 1859 ; and upon the site have been built the beautiful church of St. Peter; a School
of Art, and streets of houses. Belvedere House and Gardens^ adjoined Cuper'*
Gardens in Queen Anne's reign ; and still further west were Cumberland I^ea-Chrden*
(named after the great Duke), which existed until 1813 ; their site is now crossed
by TauxhaU Bridge-road. The Do^ and Duck dates fix)m 1617, the year upon the
agn-stone in the garden-wall of Bethlem Hospital (see pp. 51-54) : here is preserved
a drawing of the old tavern and its grounds. The SereuUs Inn and Gardens occu-
pied the nte of the Asylum for Female Orphans, opened in 1758 ; and oppodte were
the Apollo Gardens and the Temple of Flora, Mount-row, opened 1788. A century
earlier there existed, in King William's reign, Lamheth Wells, in Three Coney Walk,
now Lambeth Walk ; it was reputed for its mineral waters, sold at a penny a quart,
" the same price paid by St. Thomas's Hospital." About 1750 a muacal sodety was
held here, and lectures and experiments were g^ven on natural philosophy by Erasmus
King, who had been coachman to Dr. Desaguliers. In Stangate are the Sower
Saloon, with its theatre and music-room ; and the Canierbufy {Music) Sail.
AsUey's Amphitheatre originated with Philip Astley, who in 1763 commenced
horsemanship in an open field near Glover's "Halfplenny Hatch" at Lambeth
Thence Astley removed to the site of the present theatre, Westminster Bridge-road,
when his ground-landlord had a preserve or breed of pheasants near the spot : the
theatre was burnt in 1794, 1803, and 1841. The Victoria Theatre, formerly the
Cohwrg, opened in 181Q, is built on ground held of tho manor of Lambeth : the ate
was a swampy open field ; and part of the stone materials of the old Savoy Palace,
Strand, then being deared away, was used for the theatre foundation. The 'Bjoyal
Circus, St. George's Fields, was built in 1781, by Dibdin and Hughes, to compete with
Astley; the Circus was burnt in 1805, and rebuilt as the Surrey Theatre in 1806;
burnt in 1865, and rebuilt in the same year.
The Asylum for Female Orphans, just mentioned, was established diiefiy through
Sir John Fidding, the police-magistrate, whose portrait, attributed to Hogarth, was
* Dr. Bawlinson, in his additions to Aubrey's Smrrejf (written in 1719), imagines Belvedere Gardens
to hare been the site of a saw-mtU erected in Cromwell's time, and which he protected by Act of
Parliament.
LAMBETH. 499
presenred there ; with a head of George III. and his youngest son, the Duke of Canv.
bridge, who was long president of the institntion : in the chapel is a tablet to his memory
The rite cost the charity 16,0002. ; premises rebuilt 1826; removed to Beddington in 1866k
In Oak1«7-rtreet, at the Oakley Arms, November 16, 1802, Colonel Edward Marcna Despard and
tfairty-two other persona were apprehended on a charm of high treason ; and in Febroarjr following, tii*
Colonel, with nine associates, were tried by a spedu commisripn at the SonreT Sessions Honsej and
being all found ffoilty, seren, including I>espard, were executed, Febroary 2^ on the top of Horse-
monger>]ane GaoL
Lambeth was long noted as the residence of astrologers. At Tradescanf s house, in
Sooth Lambeth-road, lived Elias Ashmole, who won Aubrey over to astrology {set
pp. 809 and 396). Simon Forman's burial is entered in the Lambeth parish-register *.
he died on the day he had prognosticated. Lilly says, Forman wrote in a book left
behind him : " This I made the devil wiite with his own hand in Lambeth Fields,
1569, in June or July, as I now remember." Captain Bubb, contemporary with
Forman, dwelt in Lambeth Marsh, and "resolved horary questions astrologicaUy," a
ladder which raised him to the pilloiy. At the north comer of Caloot-alley lived
Francis Moore, astrologer, physician, and schoolmaster, and the original author of
"Moore's Almanack." Kext to Tradescanfs house lived the learned Dr. Ducarel, one
of the earliest Fellows of the Society of Antiquaries, and librarian at Lambeth Palace.
Lambeth Md^reh, by Hollar's map, extended from near Stangate to Broadwall ; and
was bounded by the river on the north-west, and the ancient way or road called Lam-
beth Marsh on the south-east. The names of Narrow-wall and Broad-wall were
derired from the embankments subsequently made.
In catting for the railway and lines of sewerage at the great terminus near York-road (a space In siie
c^osl to GrosTenorHsquart ), ^tien was found a wrge deposit fh>m the inundations of the Thames, con-
tuning mTel-stoues and dark wet day, or pressed nTer-mud, imbedding fhigments of twigs, boiies,
pieces of Boman tile, Ac.
Narrow-wall, Vine-street, and Cornwall-road are delineated in views of these
suburbs in Queen Elizabeth's reign : Vino^treet is fit>m eight to ten feet below the level
of the adjacent streets. In the Marsh stood, until 1823, an old house, called Bonner's
house, which was tra^tionaUy known as the residence of Bishop Bonner. Near the
Marsh resided Thomas Bushell, a man of scientific attunments, who was a friend of
Lord Chancellor Bacon. He obtained from Charles 1. a grant to coin silver money
for the purposes of the king, when the use of his Mint at the Tower was denied to the
king. When Oliver Cromwell assumed the protectorate, Thomas Bushell hid himself in
this house, which it seems had a turret upon it. A large garret extended the length
of the premises ; in this the philosopher lay hid for upwards of a year. This apar^
ment he had hung with black ; at one end was a skeleton extended on a mattress : at
the other was a low bed, on which he slept; and on the dismal hangings of the wall
were depicted several emblems of mortality. At the Restoration, Charles XL supported
Bnshell in some of his speculations. He died in 1674, eighty years of age, and was
buried in the little cloisters of Westminster Abbey.
At South Lambeth, upon the site of Sir Noel Caron's manmon and deer-park, are
Beaufo^e Vinegar emd Wine Worhe, Here were a vessel of sweet wine containing
59,109 gallons, and another of vinegar of 66,799 gpillons; the lesser of which exceeded
the famous Heidelberg tun by 40 barrels. Mr. Beaufoy, F.R.S., was an eminent
mathematician, and a munificent patron of education; Ins bust is placed in the
Council Chamber, Gmldhall. In Lambeth Walk, dose upon the South* Western Bail-
way, are the Lamheth Ragged Schools, founded in 1851 by Mr. Beaufoy, at the
expense of 10,000^., and 4000Z. endowment, as a memorial of the benevolent Mrs.
Boiufoy, the wife of the founder.
On part of the site of Belvedere House and Gardens were established, in 1786, the
Lambeth Water-works, first taking their water from the borders of the Thames, then
from its centre, near Hungerford Bridge, by a cast-iron conduit-pipe 42 inches in
diameter ; whence, in 1862, the works were removed to Seething Wells, Ditton, 23
miles by the river-course from London Bridge. Thence the water is supplied to the
Company's reservours at Brixton, 10} miles, by steam pumping-engines, at the rate of
10,000,000 gallons daily ; from these reservoirs, 100 feet above the Thames, the water
flows by its own gravity through the mains ; but at Norwood it is lifted by steam-
power 350 feet, or the height of St. Paul's Cathedral, above the supplying river.
K X 2
500 CUBI08ITIE8 OF LONDON.
m
In Bdoedert-road m Oodimf* Ale JSrewery, boilt in 1836 : the apper floor is an
tmiwuip tank for water, soppl ying the floor helow, where the hoQed liquor is cooled ;
it then dewends into fermenting tons in the itofy beneath, next to the floor for finings
and bfUy to the ceUar or itore-TatB.
Fkte-gisai for mirrors and eoadi-windows was fint made, in 1670, hj VeneUan
artists^ with Rosetti at thar head, under the patronage of the second Duke of Bock-
"»gfc«™, at Fox-hall (Vanxhall), with great soooeas, " so as to excel the Venetians, or
any other nation, in Mown plate-glass." But about 1780 the establishment was
broken up, and a descendant of Bosetti's left in extreme porerty. (Sut. of Lambetk,
1786.) The works stood on the nte of Vauxhall-sqnare. Some of the finest ** Yaux-
hall plates " are to be seen in the Speaket^s state-coach. The Falcon Glast-hatise,
Holland-street, Blackfriars-road, occupies the site of the tide-mill of the old manor of
Fluis Garden, and has existed more than acentury ; here is made about a fortieth part
of the flint-glass manufibctured in England.*
Lambeth has long been famed for its stone-ware. The VamxhaU Pottery, esta-
hUshed two centuries since, by two Dutchmen, for the mannfarture of old Delft ware, is
probably the origin of all our existing potteries. Two other Potteries at Lambeth
were connnenced in 1730 and 1741. The potters procure the day from Devon and
Dorset ; and the flint, already ground, from Stafibrdshire. Salt-glazed stoneware is
made in Lunbeth of the yearly value of 100,0002., of which more than one-balf is paid
for labour ; at Green's nanuiactoxy are made chemical vessels for holding from 300
to 400 galkms.
In HumV* Chemical Worke, High-street, are combined the crushing of bones and
the grinding of mustard, with the manufricture of colours, soap, and bone brushes ; and
stearine, glue, hartshorn, and phosphate of lime are obtained by steam-power frtmi the
refuse of slaughtered cattle. Hawet^s Soap and Candle Works, at the Old Bojal
Barge House, have existed for 90 years.
Above Yanzhall Bridg* are Priei^t SUatriiu CandU Ompamf§ Worhi (eetsblitbed 184S) : where
esndlee sre made from cocoa-nnt oil brought from the Compenir's plantatioos in Ceylon, and palm-oil
from the ooaat of Africa, landed from bailees at the wharf at vanihall. The oil beinj^ cooyertcd bj
chemical prooesaes into stearine, is ftred fhxn oleic add hy enormoos pressore; is liquefied br steam,
and then conreyed into the moulding machinery, by which 800 miles of wicks are continnaUy beinir
oonTcrted into candles. The buildings are <^ oornigated iron, and indnde the aaxiliaries of a laboratory,
engineers', carpenters', tinmen's, coppersmiths', and weaTcrs' shops ; forges, a cooperage, a sea]ing>wax
manoflictorT, and steam printing-machine ; the several ftimaoes consommg their own smoke; nis is
the most colossal establishment in the worid in this branch of chonical mannfactore.
Shot is made in the lofty towers immediately above and below Waterloo Bridge
The height of the quadrangular tower is 150 feet: the upper floor is a room
wherein the alloy of arsenic and lead is melted by a furnace; the fluid metal b then
ladled into a kind of cullender, through the holes of which it falls like rain for about
130 feet into water at the lower floor of the building. An iron staircase leads from
the bottom to the top of the tower : on Jan. 5, 1826, the upper floor was destroyed by
fire, which happening at night, presented a magnifloent effect. The drcular shot-
tower, 100 feet high, is strikingly bcautifuL Mr. Hosking, the architect, considers
this structure to rival the Monument : " They are both," he observes, " of cylindrical
form ; but the one is crowned by a square abacus, and the other by a bold cornice^
which follows its own outline (»>. of the tower): the greater simplicity and conse-
quent beauty of the latter is such as to strike the most unobservant."
Maudslay and Fields a Marine Steam Engine Works, in the Westminster-road, were
commenced in 1810, and employ from 1300 to 1400 workmen, besides steam-power
for the heavy labour. Here are fashioned immense metal screws, like the double tail
of a whale ; parts of engines, several tons weight, are lifted by cranes, to be acQusted
and joined together ; immense cylinders are bwed and polished, of such diameter that
a man might almost walk upright through them. Engines cut and shave hard iron, as
if it were soft as wax ; cutting instruments have a force of thirty tons ; steam-hammers
are of ten, twenty, and thirty cwt. ; thick metal plates are pierced by rolling mills and
machinery to be fastened with red-hot rivets.
• Mr. /psley Pellatt, the proprietor of the Falcon Works, elected M.P. fbr Sonthwark bi 18S^
published CurtotiOnqfOlaat-making (1840); the experiences of a lifetime uneeaslnflj devoted to the
stodj and practice of the art.
LAMBETH PALACE. 501
In Dake-atreet, Stamford-itreet, are Clowet's Printing Work* and Foundry, the
larg^est in the world, comnieiioed by Augnttiu Applegatb, the eminent engineer, and
greatly extended by his inooeMOirs, Meam. Clowes.
The ** New Cat," from Westmhister to BUckfriars-road, has become a street within
the recollection of the writer, who remembers low-Iying-fields, with a large windmill,
east of the raised roadway. Pedlar^s Acre (for the name see p. 185), a portion of
the Marsh, by old admeasurement contains 1 acre 17 poles, with a firontage on the
Thames. In 1504, by the charchwardens* aooonnts, it was an oner-bed, and in 1628.
Church Osiers; the name of Pedla^9 Ajere does not occur until 1690, probably from
its being the squatting-plaoe of pedlars, as were the New Cut fields withhi memory.
In 150^^ tb« aimiial rent of this ertats wis St. U.; hi ISOe, ^.; 15ft), 6*.; in 1656, 6*. &!.; hi 156^
1S«. 4d. ; in 1581, Ik 6*. Sd.i and hi 1661, 41.^ at about which sum it oontinoed ontil the oommencement
of the last eentnrjr. Alter the draining of Lambeth Msnh, and the erection of Westminster and Black-
Mars Bridges, Pedlar's Acre, In 1763, was held on a long lease at a yearly rent of VM. and 8002. fine.
In 1813, when it had been moch bnilt opon, it was let by snction for twenty-one years, in three lots, at
78i. per annum, and 60001. premhon. The rents and proceeds are ^»pUed to parochial porpoees, nuder
the Act 7 Geo. IV. cap. 46.
At Narrow Wall ^oorished for nearly 60 years Coade's Manufactory of burnt Artifi-
cial Stone (a revival of ierra-^otia), invented by the elder Bacon, the sculptor ; and
first established by Mrs. Coade, from Lyme Regis, in 1769. Of this material are the
bas-relief in the pediment over the western portico at Greenwich Hospital, represent-
ing the Death of Nelson, designed by West, and executed by Bacon and Panzetta ;
and the rood-screen or loft at St. Qeorge's Chapel, Windsor. The manufiicture (now
Austin and Seeley's) has been removed to the New-road.
Lambeth, a few years since a feverish marsh, has been greatly improved by
drainage: Mandslay's Foundry was raised on pillars from the swamp, where at
times a boat might have floated ; it is now, by drainage, firm and dry at all seasons.
Ijetf s Timber Wharf, from the time of Queen Elizabeth until the beginning of this
century, lay amidst ponds and marsh-streams, but is now dry and healthy. Here are
the timber- wharves of Messrs. Gabriel ; Alderman Gabriel, Lord Mayor 1866-7.
Across this thickly-peopled district extends the South- Western Railway from its
terminus in the Waterloo-road to Nine Elms, 2 miles 60 yards, executed at a cost of
800,000/.; and along the river-bank, anaconda-like, upon arches, trends the extension
of the London, Chatham, and Dover Railway, and the South Eastern Railway, from
London Bridge.
ljlMbeth palace,
TAMBETH HOUSE of old, has been for six and a half centuries the mansion of
-^ the Archbishops of Canterbury, who had resided at Lambeth seventy years pre-
viously; and in 1197 obtained the entire manor, by exchange with the Bishop of
Rochester for certain lands in Kent. Hence tho present palace is the manor-house;
and, with the gardens and grounds, forms an extra-parochial district.
The oldest part of Lambeth Palace is the Chapel, and a Crypt, supposed to be a
portion of the ancient manor-house, built by Archbishop Hubert Walter about 1190.
Archbishops Langton, Boniface^ Arundel, Chicheley, Stafford, Morton, Warham,
Cranmer, Pole, Parker, and Bancroft, expended great sums on the pakoe, as have
succeeding archbtshope. Cranmer's additions included " the Steward's Parlour," and
« a summer-house in the garden of exquisite workmanship ;" both which have disap-
peared. In Wat Idler's rebellion, " the commons from Essex" plundered the palace,
and beheaded the archbishop, Sudbury, on Tower Hill. In 1642, the Parliamentary
Bold&ers dismantled the Chapel, broke the pamted windows, which it was alleged
Archbishop Laud had restored "by theur like in the mass-book;" while Laud's
** books and goods were smzed on, and even his very diary taken by force out of his
pocket.^ The palace was then used as a prison for the Royalists; and after its sale
by the Parliament for 7073/., the Chapel was converted into a dancing-room, and
the Great Hall demolished. The latter was rebuilt by Archbishop Juxon, at tho
charge of 10,500/. The palace was attacked by the rioters of 1780, when it was
protoEted by a detachment of Guards^ and subsequently by a militia regiment as a
602 CURIOSITIES OF LONBON.
garrison for some weeks. Between 1828 and 1848 Aichlnshop Howley rebuilt the
habitable portion of the palace, and restored other parts, at a cost of 60,000Z. The
garden-front is of Tador character ; and with its bays and enridied windows, battle-
ments, gables, towers, and dostered chimney-sluifls, is very pictnresqne.
The Oate-house, boilt by Archbishop Morton about 1490, consists of an embattled
centre and two immense square towers, of fine red brick with stone dressings, and a
spadons Tador arched gateway and postern. The towers are ascended by spiral stone
flturcases, leading to the Beeord-room contuning many of the archives of the see of
Canterbury. Adjoining the archway is a small prison-room, with high and narrow
windows, and thi<^ stone walls to which are fastened three strong iron rings ; and in
the wall are cuttings, induding Jo^n ^rafiou, and a cross and other figured near it.
The walls and towers of the gate-house, and the andent brick wall on the Thames
dde, are chequered with crosses in glazed bricks.
At this gate the dole immemorislly given to the poor l^ the Arehblshopi of Csiiterbar; is ooostantlT
dlstribated. It contiita of fifteen quarum loaves, nine atone of bee^ and five ehlllinirB worth of hal^
pence, divided into three eqnal portions, and distributed every Snndaj, Toeeday, and Thorsday, aaumg
thirty poor parishioners of Lambeth ; the beef being made into broth and served in pitchers.
2^ Lollardg* Towvr, on the left of the outer court, is embattled, and diiefly of
dark-red brick, faced with stone on its outer sides. It was built (1434-5) by Arch-
bishop Chicheley, whose arms are sculptured on the outer wall on the Thames side;
beneath them is a Gothic niche, wherein formerly stood the image of St. Thomas 4
Becket. In this tower is the Pott-room, with a flat and panelled ceiling, carved with
angels and scrolls, and a head resembling that of Henry YIII. On the east side ia an
entrance to the Chapel ; and through a small door you ascend by a steep spiral stair-
case to the LoUardt^ I'iison (in an adjoining square tower on the north side), entering
by a narrow, low, pointed archway of stone, with an oaken inner and outer door, each
3^ inches thick, dosely studded with iron rivets and fastenings. This chamber is
nearly 15 feet in length, by 11 feet in width, and 8 feet high ; and has two narrow
windows, and a small fireplace and chimney. About breast-high are fixed in the walls
eight large iron rings ; and upon the oaken wainscoting are inddons of initials, names^
diort sentences, crosses, cubes, &c, cut by the unhappy captives. It is no longer oon-
(Incisions upon the wall of Lollards' Tower.)
sidered that they were exclusively Lollards, nor is there podtive evidence that these
followers of Wicliffe were imprisoned here; although the registers of the see of Can*
terbury record several proceedings against the sect, and Wiclifie himself is said to have
been examined in the Chapd at Lambeth. Archbishop Arundel was the fiercest per*
tecutor of the Lollards, and his successor, Chichdey, bmlt " the Lollards' Tower," pos-
dbly on the dte of other prisons here, which the registers of the see prove the ardi-
bishops to have possessed. To Lambeth House the Popish prelates, Tunstall and
Thirlby, were committed by Queen Elizabeth : and here were confined the Earl of
Essex; the Earls of Chesterfield and Derby; Sir Thomas Armstrong, afterwards
executed for participation in the Duke of Monmouth's rebellion ; Dr. Allestry, the
eminent divine; and Richard Lovelace, the poet. In the three stories above the Post-
Toom are apartments for the archbishop's chaplains and librarian.
The Chapel, entered from the Post-room, is divided by an elaborately carved screen ;
but the arched roof is concealed by flat panelling, bearing the arms of Laud, Juxon,
and Cornwflllis. At the east end are five long lancet-shaped lights, filled with
diapered modem glass; and at each side are three triplicated windows, resembling
those of the Temple Church. Here are the archbishop's stall, seats for the officers of
his household, and below for the male servants ; the females bdng seated in the outer
chapel, in a small gallery, where was formerly an organ. In front of the altar ia
buried Archbishop Parker, beneath a marble slab, inscribed, " Corpus Matthosi ardii-
LAMBETH PALACE, 503
cpiflcopi tandem hie qyiescit."* The tomb, which Parker " erected while he was yet
alive," near the spot where he "need to pray," was demolished by Col. Scot in 1642,
and the Archbishop's corpse thrown into a dnng-heap ; bat it was recovered and re*
interred after the Restoration. Archbishop Bancroft has narrated these &ct8 in an
epitaph of elegant Latin, inscribed on a tomb raised by him to Parker's memory. In
the Chapel have been consecrated npwards of 150 bishops : Dr. Howley's consecration
as Bishop of London (1818) was witnessed by Qneen Charlotte, when seventy years of
age : as Archbishop of Canterbury he crowned three sovereigns. The Crypt beneath
the chapel has been already noticed at p. 302.
The lAhrartf ( Juxon's Hall) and the Chreat Dininff-room (on the site of the Guard-
chamber) form the west side of the inner court. On the north are the new buildings
of the palace, by E. Blore ; the entrance is between two octagonal towers, 84 feet
bigh. In the Private lAbrary is a portrait on board of Archbishop Warham, con-
secrated 1504 ; this was painted by Holbein, and presented by him to the Archbishop,
with a head of his friend Erasmus t the latter is missing. In the Anteroom is a
whole-length portrait of Charles I., copied from Vandyke ; and a picture on panel of
8t. Ambrose, St. Jerome^ St. Aug^ine, and St. Gregory^ with the Holy Spirit. (See
a List of the Rctures, in Brayley's Rittory of Surrey, voL iiL)
The Quard-chamber is mentioned in 1424 as the " Camera Armifferorum,** from the
arms being kept here for the defence of the palace ; but they were carried off in the
plnnder of 1642, and were never replaced. In this chamber Archbishop Laud kept his
state, Sept. 19, 1633, the day of his consecration. The apartment is 68 feet long and
27 feet 6 inches wide ; it has a very elegant oak roof, with the lofty two-centred and
bold tracery of Early Perpendicular work; it was long plastered over, but was restored
by Blore about 1882, when it was under-propped, and the walls were rebuilt. The
Toof is panelled, and supported by bold arches springing from octang^ular corbels ; the
spandrels of the arches being filled by quatrefoils in circles, and trefoil mouldings. On
the gabled sides of the roof similarly enriched arches stretch between the great roof
arches ; on the walls also arches span from corbel to corbel, and support an embattled
frieze ; and the fireplace is turreted.
In this room, beaidefl tmaller portraite, ti a series of half and three-qoarier lengths of all the Areb-
Ushops of Canterbary since 163S : including^ Laod, by Vandyke; Jozon (who attended Charles I. on the
acafTold), from an orinnal at Long^leat; Herrin|f,bY Hogarth; Seeker, hi Reynolds ; Sutton, by Beechey ;
Howley, by Sbee. These portraito show the gradual change in the clerical dress, In bands and wigs^
and the large raff in place of the band : Tillotson's being the first wig, onpowdered, and not unlike the
natural hair. Here also are smaller heads of the earlier archbishops : Arundel, from a curious portrait
at Penshurst; Chichel^, Cranmer, and Grindal ; and Cardinal Pole, from an original in the Barberini
Palace at Borne. Pole maintained great hospitality at Lambeth : in the MS. Library is his patent (4
Philip and Mary) for retaining one hundred servants, llie body of the Cardinal lay in great state at
Xamoeth daring forty days, prior to its interment at Canterbury.
In the hall are given annoally. on *' public dajs," a certain number of state entertainments, termed
** Lambeth Palace dinners," to tne bishops and leading clergy. The Bev. Sydney Smith fkoetloosly
aeks : " Is it necessary that the Archbishop of Canterbary should give feasts to aristocratic London;
and that the domestics of the Prelaqr dioold stand with swords and Dag> wigs, round pig and turkey and
venison, to defend, as it were, the orthodox gastronomer firom the fierce Unitarian, the fell Baptist^ and
the famished children of Dissent V'—Seoond Letter on Ckureh Etfcrm,
In the Picture QtUUry, built by Pole, among other paintings are: Archbishop Potter when six years
old (1680), holding a Greek Testament, which he is said then nearly to have read ; Martin Luther, from
Nuremburg; Cardinal Pole (oorious, on board, and probably a genuine likeness); Queen Catherine
Parr, original, on board; Luther and his Wife (?), attributed to Holbein, and copied on enamel by Bone ;
Henry Prince of Wales, eldest son of James I. (rall4onffth, curious costume) : Bishop Burnet, as Chan-
cellor of the Garter ; an old view of Canterburr Cathedral ; Archbishop Juxon, alter his decease i
Bishop Hoadly, painted by his second wife : Archbishop Parker,t painted m 1672 by Richard Lyue, who
practised painting and engraTing in the palace ; Archbishop Tillotson, by Mrs. BesJe.
The Great Hall is built of dark-red brick, with strong buttresses and stone finish-
ings. In the centre of the roof is a two-storied hexagonal lantern, surmounted by a
large vane, in which are the arms of the see of Canterbury, impaled with those of
Juxon (a cross between four negroes' heads), surmounted by the archiepisoopal mitre.
• In this Chapel Archbishop Parker was consecrated, Deo. 6, 1669, aooording to the " daly appointed
ordinal of the Church of England." as recorded in Parker's Kcvister at Lambeth, and in the Library oi
Corpus Christi College at Cambridge; thus falsiiying the absurd calumny promalgated by the BomanistL
of Archbishop Parker having been irregularly consecrated at the Ifa^t Mead Tavern, at the east end of
Friday'Street, Cheapside, by one bishop only.
t This portrait sirongly resembles the small print of the Archbishop engrayed by B. Berg (Bemiglns
Hogenberg), which Yertae considered to be the first portrait engntTed In England.
604 CURT08ITIE8 OF LONDON.
Tbe interior was converted into a library for the printed books belonging to the fsee,
between 1830 and 1834 ; when a new entrance-gateway to the inner court was built,
with a fireproof room aver it» in which are kept tbe MSS. The libraiy has a laige
north-west bay-window of richly ornamented stained and painted glass ; in the top
division is a very large coat of the arms of the see and Archbishop Jnzoo ; and
underneath are the arms of the see and Archbisbop Howley, 1829. Aronnd are smaller
coats of the arms of aboat twenty-foar archbishops, each Impaled with tbe arms of tbe
see. Here are also the arms of Pbilip II. King of Spain ; bat the most carious pece of
painted glass is an ancient portndt of Archbishop Chicheley.
The roof is of oak, and a fine specimen of olden carpentry : it consists of eight mnn
ribs, with longitudinal braces, springing from corbel bradcetSi and enriched with
carved spandrds, pendants, enwreatbed mitres, and tbe arms of Juxon and the see of
Canterbury several times repeated. Above the two fireplaces are painted tlie arms of
the see, impaling those of Bancroft, the founder of the library ; and of Seeker, a
liberal contributor. The books, over-estimated by Ducarel at 25,000 volumes, are kept
in wall and projecting oak cases ; the earliest printed works being in the south-west
bay-window recess. Until Bancroft bequeathed his books in 1610, each archbishop
brought his own private collection. Bancroft's books remuned at Lambeth till 164^
two years after the eiecution of Laud, when being seized by tbe Parliament, tbe use of
them was granted to Dr. Wincocke. They were subsequently given to Sion College,
and many began to get into private hands ; when Selden suggested to tbe University
of Cambridge a right to them, and they were delivered, pursuant to an ordinance of
Fkrliament, dated Feb. 1647, into their possesnon. After the Bestoration, and re-
peated demands by Juxon and Sheldon, the books were collected, including those in
private hands, and in the possession of John Thurloe and Hugh Peters. Evelyn writes
to Pepys, in 1689, that the library was then ** replenished with excellent books, bat
that it ebbs and flows, like the Thames running by it, at every prelate's accession or
transition." The books left by Archbishops Bancroft, Abbot, Laud, Sheldon, and
Tenison, bear their arms. There is only one volume in the collection known to have be-
longed to Archbishop Parker, which is a volume of Calvin's vrriting : his arms are on tbe
outside, and within is written in red lead, " J. Parker," who was the archbishop's son.
The flnt complete Catalcffne made of the printed booki was drawn np by IHshop Gibson when
llbrariin. In 1718 it was Ikirly copied bv Dr. Wilkine, in three volnmes folio ; and It has been continaed
by his socceeson to the present time. 'Ilie library ooneiito of rare and carioaa edittona <^ the Scriptarea,
commentaries of the early fathers, aearce oontroveraial divinity, records ofeccleaiaatical aflSun^ JBngliah
hiatory and topography ; many fine coptea, aplendidly embellinhed.
The earJy minted hooka (see the Bev. Dr. MaiUand'atwo Cateloguea) indnde, Oazton'a CkromUUi of
Sngland Kodjyeterwtkm <ff BrUain. both "fynsahed" in 1480, the finest copiea extant; Lyndwodea
CongiUuiUnut ProvMciaU*. printed by Wynkin de Worde in 1409; TMs Qolden Leotnd, emprynted at
London in Fletestrete, in ttie Sygne of the Oeorire, by Bichard Pynson, in 1607, ana another edition of
the aame work by Wynkin de Worde, In 1627 ; Gower'a Coufntio Amantitt a splendid copy by Cazton,
1483; Dhe» and Pauper, by I^nson, 1403 ; CMauctr'$ Work», folio, by John Rejnes, in 1462, and Islip,
in 1698. Here, too, ia a amall folio, executed at Paria, on Tellum, about 1600, intituled. La Dane*
Macabre (the Dance of Death), printed with old Gothic typea and beantiftilly illuminated. Here, also^
in Tolumea, ia Bancroffa collection of black-letter tracte, munphleta, and aermona; remarkable for St.
Paul's Croaa aermona, Mar-Prdate tracts, and the writinfa of the Brownista and other Elisabethan
aeparatiste. Here, too, ia a copy of Archbishop Parker's AniiquUiet printed, br DaTea in 1672 (only
two complete copiea extant) : it contalna the vei7 rare portrait of Parker, taken Joat before hia deatlv
by Berg.
Among the Mannacrlpte are, the snolent French version and exposition of the Apocalypse, with
miniature paintings. No. 76; the Latin copy of the ApooUypae, No. 209 (thirteenth century), with 78
brilliant illuminationa; and No. 200L a copy of the treatise De VirgmUate, in praiae of celibacy, by
Aldhelm, Abbot of Malmeabuxy. eighth century. Among the aacred MSS. are Greek Testaments;
the Old Testament in Armenian; the whole Bible, Widiffe's tranalation; and Latin Paalten,
beautifully written and iUuminated. Here, too, are Scripture expositiona of Bede; Anglo-Saxon ser-
mons (tenth eenturir) and Saxon homiliea (twelfth century). Among the Miasals ia a rery beautiftil
Salisbury misaal, folio, on Tellum, emblaxoned with Archbishop Chichelcy's arms. The HSS. of Gredc
and liatln daaaica are extremely yaluable. Here are the Lambeth Begisters, 40 vols, folio, on ▼ellum;
containing homagea, popes' bulla ; letters to and from popes, cardina]s,kings, and princes; oommiasiona
and proxiea, marriagea and diTorcee, Sao. 1279 to 1747 (except 1644 to 1680) : the reglateraof theprimatea
aubsequent to Potter, 1747, are kept at Doctora' Commons. Also two large folio rolumea of papal bulls ;
ancient charters of the see, 13 vols. ; accurate transcripte of the parliamentuy aurveys of the property
of bishopa, deana, and chapters, made during the Commonwealth, 21 vols.
The collection ia atored with MSS. of Engliah history, civil and ocdeaiaatlcal, indodfaig chronides
and collectiima of histories; and important documente, particularly of the relations of France and Eng-
land {tenm. Hen. V. and VI.). Among tbe MSS. on Heraldry and Genealogy are many written or
corrected by Lord Burghley. Here are stores of old English poetry and romancea : induding Lydgate's
Worka,andGawan Dou^aa'a Tranalation of Virgil'8.<KMM<; and the metrical legend of I^beaoaDiaoaims.
LAW C0UBT8. 505
Among tlie Lettent are thoae of Lord Yenilain, published by Dr. Birch ; those of
his brother, Anthony Bacon, sixteen vols. ; the letters of the Earl of Shrewsbury, and
of other persona, Ump, Henry VIII. to James I. But the most curious and beautifully
written of the misoellaneoas MSS. (between 1200 and 1300 in number) is Lord Rivera's
translation from the French of "the Notable Wise Sayings of Philosophers," with
a very fine illumination of Earl Rivers presenting Caxton the prmter to King
Edward IV., in presence of his queen and infant son, afterwards Edward Y. (Zo»-
diniana, vol. iii. p. 816.)
Here is an original copy of Aggas's Map of London, temp. Elizabeth ; and here are
laid up the service-books which have been used at the coronations of different sove-
reigns. The ooronation-chain claimed by the archbishops have descended to theur
respective fiimilies.
Among the Curiontiei is the hahU of a priutt consisting of a stole, maniple,
chasuble, oord, two bands marked P., and the corporal ; also, a crucifix of base metal,
a string of beads, and a box of relics. Here is kept the shell of the tortoise, believed
to have lived in the palace-garden from the time of Laud (1638) to 1758, when it
perished by the n^ligence of the gardener: the shell is 10 inches in length, and 6^
incbea in breadth.
The Oardetu and ^roundt extend to eighteen acres. Here were formerly two fine
white Marseilles fig-trees, traditionally phinted by Cardinal Pole against that part of
the palace which he founded : these trees were more than 60 feet in height and 40 in
breadth ; their circumferences 28 and 21 inches. They were removed during the late
rebuilding, but some cuttings from the trees are growing between the buttresses of
the Library. The Terrsce is named Clarendon Walk, from having been the scene of
the conference between the great and wise Earl of Clarendon and the ill-fated Laud.
A superb feature in the archbishop's HtUe was formerly a river barg^ in which he
went to Parliament ; but this castom has been discontinued a century, or since Arch-
bishop Wake's primscy. The Stationers' Company's Barge, fbrroerly called at Lam-
beth Palace on Lord Mayor's Day, to present copies of their Almanacks; the origin of
which custom is described under the account of the Stationers' Company, p. 421.
Lambeth House has at various times proved an asylum for learned foreigners who
have been compelled to flee from the intolerant spirit of their own coantrymen. Here
the early reformers, Martyr and Bucer, found a safe retreat ; and the learned Antonio^
Archbishop of Spalatro^ was entertained by Archbishop Abbot. The archbishops have
frequently been honoured by visits from their respective sovereigns. Heniy Vll., just
before his coronation, visited Archbishop Bourchier. Henry VIII. was a guest of
Warham, in 1518; and one evening in 1543 he crocBcd the Thames to Lambeth,
to acquaint Cranmor (whom he called into his barge) of the plot against him
instigated by Bishop Gardiner. Queen Mary is said to have refurnished Lambeth
House^ at her own expense, fbr the reception of Cardinal Pole, whom she several
times visited here during his short primacy. Elizabeth often vinted Archbishop
Parker ; hiis successor, Grrindal, was on* of favour; but AVhitgift, the next archbishop,
was visited fifteen times by Elizabeth, who occasionally stayed two or three days.
James also visited Whitgift. Mary, Queen of William III., had a conference here in
1694 with Archbishop Tillotson, who received here Peter the Great* to witness the
ceremony of an ordination.
ZAJF COUETS.
"DOR nearly eight centuries, existing record proves Law Courts to have been held at
•'' Westminster, within the palace of the sovereign : one of the earliest notices being in
the JnnaU of Waverley, 1069, when Elfric, Abbot of Peterborough, was tried before
the king in enria. Bat it was not until 1225 (9 Hen. III.) that the Law Courts,
hitherto held wherever the king was temporarily resident, were permanently fixed at
Westminster. Here the Courts were frequently held before the monarch in person |
and the phrase of summons, " in banco regina" still is, " before the queen herself.'
•»
Tkt old Lam Omrta in WnimintUr HdU were thus arranged. At the entrr, on the rifht hand,
were lettted the Conunon Pleae, for drii maUere ; at the opper end, in the loath-Mat oomer, was the
506 OUBIOSITIES OF LONBOK
Klni^B Bench, tar plea* of fhe down : and In the ioath-west angle sat the Lord Chancdlor, the Kaater
of the Bolli, and eleven men learned In the civil law, called Maiten of the Chancery, deriirtu^ its name
from the lattioe-work, " cancelli," which separated this Coort (in the laat oentnry shutting it oat of
aiffht) from the lower part of the HaU. fThe aoreen waa removed before the coronation of King Qeorg«
IV.) Near the Kinff^i Bench, going to the large chamber (White Hall) waa the Court of Wards and
Liveries, institnteU ov Henry VlIL ; in this chamber, then called the Treaniry, were kepi valnaUe
state^papers. Ac^oinrng, bat inferior to the Ohanoery, waa the Equity Court of Bequests, or Cooscienee^
for irjing auits made by way of petition to the aoverdgn ; and aomeomea called the Poor Man's Ooort,
beeauae he could there have right without paying money. It began ita sittings in 141^, and was lemodeUed
in 1617 i the Lord Privy Seal sitting as judge.— Walcotfs WMtmkuUr, p. 262, abridged.
The Old Court of Beqneats, jiut mentioned, was, at the Union, fitted ap as Uie
King's Robing-room and the House of Lords; and after the great fire in 1834^ this
Court was newly roofed, and fitted up as the House of Commons; the old Painted
Chamber being similarly provided as the House of Lords.
Of certain of the present Courts we subjoin a few details of popular interest.
CsNTBAL CBiKDrAL CouBT (the) forms part of the Sesuons House, formerly ** the
Justice Hall," divided by a broad yard from the prison of Newgate, in the Old Bailey.
The Court, established 1834^ sits monthly; so that a prisoner has been apprehended one
day, committed by a magistrate on the second, and tried, convicted, and sentenced on the
third or fourth day. The judges are, the Lord Mayor (who opens the Conrt), the
Sherifik, the Lord Chancellor (such is the order of the Act), the Judges^ the Aldermoi,
Recorder, Common Serjeant of London, judge of the Sheriffs' Court, or City Com-
missioner, and any others whom the Crown may appoint as assistants. Of these, the
Recorder and Common Serjeant are in reality the presiding judges ; a judge of the law
only assisting when unusual points of the law are involved, or when conviction affects
the life of the prisoner. Here are tried crimes of every kind, from treason to the
pettiest larceny, and even offences committed on the high seas. The jurisdiction com-
prises the whole of the metropolis as now defined; with the remainder of Middlesex ;
the parishes of Richmond and Mortlake in Surrey ; and great part of Essex.
The Court-house, built in 1773, was destroyed in the Riots of 1780, but was rebuilt
and enlarged 1809, by the addition of the mte of Surgeons' HaU. The Old Coort is a
square hidl, with a gallery for visitors ; below is a dock for the prisoners, with stairs
descending to the covered passage by which they are conveyed to and from Newgate;
opposite is the bench, with the chief seat, above it a gilded sheathed sword upon the
crimson wall ; and a canopy overhead, surmounted with the royal arms. To the left of
the dock is the witness-box, and farther left is the jury-box ; which arrangement
enables the jury to see, without turning, the faces of the witnesses and prisoners;
the witnesses to identify the prisoner ; and lastly, the judges on the bench, and the
counsel in the centre of the Court below; keeping jury, witnesses, and prisoners all at
once within nearly the same line of view. The Court formerly sat at 7 A.1C. ; the
present hour is 10. Upon the front of the dock is placed rue, to prevent infection.
In 1750, when the jail-fever raged in Newgate, the effluvia entering the Court, caused
the death of Baron Clarke, Sir Thomas Abney, the judge of the Common Picas ; and
Pennant's " rejected kinsman," Sir Samuel Pennant, Lord Mayor ; besides members
of the bar and of the jury, and other persons : this disease was also fatal to several
persons in 1772. In the New Court, adjoining, are tried the lighter offences.
In 1841, both courts were ventilated upon Dr. Beid's plan, flrom chambers beneath the floors, filled
with air filtered (Vom an apartment outside the building ; the air being drawn into them by an enormoos
discharge upon the highest part of the edifice, or propeued into them by a fanno. From the entire build-
ing the vitiated air is received in a laree chamber in the roof of the Old Court, whence It is discharged
by a gigantic iron cowl, 16 feet in diameter, weighing two tons, and the point of the arrow of the
guiding-vane 160 lbs. The subterranean air-tunnds pass through a portion of the old City waU.
Above the Old Court is a stately dining-room, wherein, during the Old Bailey
sittings, the dinners are given by the Sherifb to the judges and aldermen, the Recorder,
Common Serjeant, City pleaders, and a few visitors. Marrow-puddings and rump-
steaks are invariably provided. Two dinners, exact duplicates, are served each day, at three
and five o'clock; the judges relieve each other, but aldermen have eaten both dinners;
and a chaplain, who invariably presided at the lower end of the table, thus ate two
dinners a day for ten years. Theodore Hook admirably describes a Judges' Dinner in
his Oilhert Chimey, In 1807-8, the dinners for three sessions, nineteen days, cost
Sheriff Phillips and his colleague 35^. per day=665/. ; 146 dozen of wine, consumed
LAW C0UBT8. 507
at the above dinners, 450Z. : total 1115/. The amount is now considerably greater, as
the sessions are held monthly.
" The Press Yard," between the Conrt-hoose and Newgate, recals the horrors of
the old criminal law, in the peine forte et dure (the strong and hard pain): a torture
applied to persons refusing to plead, who were stripped and pnt in low dark chambers^
with as much weight of iron placed upon them as they could bear, and more, there to
lie until they were dead ; which barbarous custom of presring to death continued
until the year 1734.
Memorable Triah at ike Old BaUef and Central Criminal Courte : M^JorStrangwajei, the oaaanin,
1657 ; Col. Turner and hie fkmilT, for barglaiy In Lime-street, 1663 ; the Regicides, 1660 ; Green. Berrr.
for the mordcT of Dr. Clenche. 1692; Beau Fielding, for bigamy, 1706: Richard Thomhill, Esq., for
Ulling Sir Cholmeley Deering in a duel, 1711 ; the Marquis di Paleotti, for the murder of his serrant
in LUle-etreet, 1718; Mi^or Oneby, for killing in a duel, 1718 and 1726; Jack Sheppard, the house-
breaker, 17M; Jonathan Wild, the thief-taker (who lived nearly opposite the Court-house), 1736 ;•
Catherine Hayes, murder of her husband, 1726; Richard Savage, the poet, for murder, 1727 s the
infamous Col. Charteris, 1730; Sarah Malcolm, for murder, 1733; Elizabeth Canning, an inexplicable
mystery, 1763; Ann Brownrigg, for murder, 1767; Baretti, for itabbing, 1768; the two Perraos, for
forgery, 1776: the Rev. Dr. Dodd, for forgery, 1777; the Rev. Mr. Hackman, for shooting Miss Beay,
1779; Bylind,the engraver, for forgery, 1783; Barrington, the pickpocket, 1790; Renwick Williams,
for Btabbmg, 1790; Theodore Gardelle, for murder, 1790; Hadfleld, for shooting at George III., 1800;
Capt Macnamara, for killing Col. Montgomery in a duel, 1803 ; Aslett, the Bank clerk (forgery on
the Bank, 320.000^.), 1803; old Patch, for murder, 1806; Holloway and Haggerty, for murder, 1807;
Governor Wall, for murder by flogging, 1812 : Bellingham, the assasufn of Perceval, 1813 ; Eliza Fenning.
for poisontng. 1816 ; Cashman, the seaman, lor riot on Snow-hill (where he was hanged), 1817; Richara
Carlile, for blasphemy, 1819 and 1831; Cato-street conspirators, 1820; Fauntleroy, for forgery. 1824;
St John Long, the ''counter-irritation" surgeon, for manslaughter, 1830 and 1831; Bishop and Williams,
for murder by "burking," 1831; Greenacre. for murder, 1837; E. Oxford, for shooting at the Queen,
I&IO; Courvolsier, for the murder of Lord William Russell, 1840: Blakesley, for murder in Eastcheap^
1841 ; Beanmout Smith, for forgery of Exchequer Bills, 1841 ; J. Francis, for attempt to shoot the
Queen, 1842; Mac Naughten, for assassination, 1834; Dalmas, for murder on Battersea Bridge, 1844;
Barber, Fletcher, ftc, for Will-forgeries, 1844; Manning and his wife, for murder, 1840; Seven Pirates
eonvicted of murder on the high seas, within the Jurisdiction of the Admiralty of England, 1863.
Clebxxkwsll Session Hoirss (eee p. 237).
CousT OF Arches (eee Doctobs' Commons, p. 312).
Courts of Equity (the)— namely, thoee of the Lord Chancellor, the Master of the
Bolla, and the Vioe-Chanoellor of England — eit at Westminster in term-time ; bnt in
the intervals the Lord Chancellor and Vice-Chancellor nt at Lincoln's Inn; and the
3tf aster of the Rolls at the Bolls House, in Cbancery-lane : the two additional Yice-
Cbancellors, appointed in 1841, also sit at Lincoln's Inn. The Lord High Chancellor
was originally a sort of confidential chaplain, or, before the Reformation, confessor to
the king, and keeper of the king's conscienee. As chief secretary, he advised his
master in matters temporal ; prepared royal mandates, grants, and charters; and when
seals came in, affixed the same : hence the appointment to the office takes place by the
delivery of the Great Seal. His Court has exclusive cognisance of trusts, and the
suitors' property exceeds 40,000,000^.
CouBT 09 Chanceby.^ — The present Law Courts, on the west side of the Great
Hall at Westminster, were built by Soane, 1820-25, upon the site of the old Exchequer
Chamber, &c There is Uttle to interest the visitor, except in the Lord Chancellor's
Court, where his lordship sits in state, with the mace and an embroidered bag before him ;
in this beg the seal is deposited when the Chancellor receives it from the Sovereign,
and when, upon his retirement from office, he delivers it into the royal hands : formerly,
the Great Seal was worn by the Chancellor on his left side.
The Oreat Seal itself is a silver pair of dies, which are closed to receive the melted
wax, poured, when an impression is to be taken, through an orifice left in the top. As
each impression is attached to a document by a ribbon or slip of parchment, its ends
tre pnt into the seal before the wax is poured in ; so that when the hard wax is taken
from the dies, the ribbon or parchment is affixed to it. The impression of the seal is
* Amonnttho old mannscript documents In the Town Clerk's Office at Guildhall is a petition ftom
Jonathan Wild to the Court of Aldermen, dated 1724^ prayinff to be tno of the City, for apprehending
snd conTicting divers felons returned firom transporUtion, shice October i:^. In 1839, the skeleton of
Jonathan was in the possession of a surgeon at Windsor.
50e CURIOSITIES OF LONDON.
mx inches in diameter, and three*qiMrtera of an inch thick. On every aocesrion to the
throne, a new seal is stmck, and the old one is cut into four pieces and deposited in
the Tower of London. Formerly, the seal was broken " by the king's conunand," and
the fitic^ents were^ given to the poor of religions honses.
Th9pre$emt QrwU Seal was ezMated by Benjimfn Wron, R.A., in 1839. Obverm : The Queen wear-
ing s flowing and ■umplaooB robe and regal diadem, bearing a sceptre, and riding a diarger richhr
caparisoned with plames and trappinn, while a poffe, bonnet in hand, graeeftiUy reatraina the steed.
The legend in the exergue, ** Victoria Dei Gratia Britanniamm Begina, Fidei Defensor/' is engrared ia
Gothic letters; the interspaces of the words being filled with heraldic roses; a crown above, aod a
trident-head and oak branches beneath. Beoer— : The Qaeeu royally robed and crowned, holding the
sceptre and orb, and seated upon a throne beneath a Gothic canopy : on either dde is a figure <x Joa-
ttce and Beligion ; and beneath are the royal arms and crown ; the whole encircled by a border of oak
and roses.
The SeaUhag is about twelve inches square, of crimson silk embroidered in gol^
with the royal arms on each side, fringed with gold bullion ; to the bag is attached a
stout silken cord, by which it is carried; witliin is placed the Seal, in a leathern poucfa,
enclosed in a silk purse.
The Chancellor'e Maee is silver-gilt, and about five feet long. The staff and its
massive bands are deeply chased with the rose, shamrock, and thistle ; the upper por-
tion consists of a large and richly chased crown, surmounted with the orb aud cross,
and encircled with crosses-pat^es and fleurs-de-lis ; and supported on a bold cirdet.
ornamented in high relief with the emblems of the United Kingdom. The mace and
seal-bag are laid before the Chancellor when seated upon the woolsack as Speaker of
the House of Lords ; and they are placed upon the table in the Court of Chancery,
accompanied by a large nosegay of flowers, conjectured to be the representative of the
judge's bough or wand.
CouBT OP Exchequer (the) was formed by William I. in 1079, as a superior Court
of Record, in the place of a similar court in hb Duchy of Normandy : it included tke
Common Pleas until 16 John, 1215; it was remodelled into its present form by
Edward I. The name of Exchequer is from the parti-coloured carpet of a table before
the Barons, on which the sums of certain of the kingf s accounts were reckoned by
counters : the Chancellor of the Exchequer is the treasurer; he presides only when the
Court sits as a Court of Equity.
The Great Roll of the Exchequer ("the Pipe Boll") oontuns an account of the
Crown revenue from 5 Stephen to the present time. To this document nearly every
ancient pedigree is indebted; it has a perfect list of the Sheriffs of the different
counties, and almost every name in English history.
The Court of Exchequer regulates the election of Sheriflb. Thus, on the morrow of
St. Martin, November 12, a Privy Council is held in the Exchequer Court, to recuTe
the report of the Judges of the persons eligible in the several counties to serve as
Sheriff. On the bench sits the Chancellor of the Exchequer, in his figured silk gown,
trimmed with geld ; next ore Members of the Privy Coundl, the Lord Chancellor, and
Judges of the Queen's Bench and Common Pleas; below sit the Judges and Chief
Baron of the Exchequer, and on the left the Remembrancer of the Court. At this
meeting the Judges report the names of three persons eligible for Sheriff in each
county, when excuses for exemption are pleaded. The list is again considered by the
Privy Council, and the names finally determined on the approval of Her Majesty in
Counc'.l, which is done by the Sovereign pricking through the name approved on a long^
sheet of paper called the Sheriffs* RolL
The Sheriffs of London and Middlesex are, however, chosen by the Livery ; but are presented, on
the morrow of the Feast of St MichaeL in the Court of Exchequer, accompanied by the Lord Mayor
and aldermen, when the Booorder introduces the Sheriffs and details their family history, snd the Cnrsi-
tor Baron signifies the sovereign's approval; the writs and appearances are read, recorded, and filed, and
the Sherlib and senior under-sheriflftake the oaths ; and the late Sherifb present their accoanta. Foiw
merly, the following ancient tenore ceremony was performed in the Coart The Crier of the coart made
proclamation for one who did homage for the Sheriffs of London to ** stand forth and do his duty ;**
when the senior Aldennan below the chair rose, the usher of the coart handed him a bill-hook, and held
in both hands a small handle of sticks, which ihe Alderman cat asunder, and then cat another bundle
with a hatchet. Similar proclamation was then made for the Sheriff of Middlesex, when the Alderman
counted six horse-shoes lying upon the table, and sixty-one liob-nails handed In a tray; and the nam-
hers were declared twice. The sticica were thin peeled twigs, tied in a bundle at each end with red
tape; the horse-shoes were of large size, and very old; the hob-nails were supplied fresh erery year.
By the first ceremony the Alderman did suit and service for the tenants of a manor in Shropshire, the
LAW COVETS. 509
cboppinff of sticks betokening the cortom of the tenants sapplying their lord with ftael. The eoonting
of tbue horse-shoes and nails was another soit and servi(» of the owners of a forge in St Clement
Danes, Strand, which formerly belonged to the City, bnt no longer exists. Sheriff Hoare, in his JUS.
joanal of his shrievalty, 1740-41, says, where the tenements and lands are situated ** no one knows.
nor doth the City receiTe any rents at profits thereby."
This ancient ceremony U now obienred before the Queen's Remembrancer, at his
office, where the City Solicitor, the Secondary of London, and one of the late Under-
Sherifi, attend '* to aeooant as to rent services duo to the Crown to be rendered on
behalf of the Corporation ;" when the City Solicitor cats the fagot and counts the
horse-shoes and nailsj, and the Remembrancer says, "Ckxxl number/' according, to
custom.
On Not. 9 the oath is adminiitered hi the Court of Exchequer to theP^rd Mayor elect ; the late
Lord Mayor renders his aoooants : and the Recorder iuTites the barons to the inaugoration-banquet at
GuUdhall. ^
The Coort of Exchequer has two §tal$: the Or«at 8»al, used not more than ten or twelve times a
Tear, except on Seal Days, in passing the aoooants in coort. The other, a small IniHal Seal, which
icrmerly contained the Chancellor's initials, bat now bears the letters C. E., is affixed to writs, " is in
dailTuae, and seldom idle daring official hoars."— JVbtet, bjf P. S. Tkoma$, Beeord Office.
The Reeeipt of Exchequer at Westminster, the most ancient revenue department of the State, with
all its sntiquated machinery of tallies and checks, was not abolished until the year 1834; when a new
olBce for ^e payment of pensions and public moneys, and the receipt of revenue, was opened at the
Bsnk of BnglaiMl. By the statute of 23 Geo. II [. cap. 82, however, indoited check recdpts were inued
^om the Tally Court instead of tallies, which, as instruments of loan, declined with the growth of
Excheqaer Bills. An Exchequer Tally, date 1810, is 22i inches long, and | of an inch extreme width:
notches are cut in its edge to denote the reckoning, and from the croas-line in the lower part has been
stripped off the counter-tally, cutting the date-line of the transaction written on the edge ; so that
UenUty consisted not only m the wood fitting, but in the halved date and notches oorrespondinir.
like a halved bank-note. ^
" From "his rug the skew'r he takes.
And on the stick ten eaual notches makes ;
With Just resentment nings it on the ground.
There, take my taUg of ten thousand pound."— A»i^.
As ooe of the Exchequer apartments at Westminster was filled with the old tallies in 1834 it became
adriaable to destroy them ; and an order was issued flrom the Board of Works to bum these ancient
Rtics, although persons curious in such matters would have purchased bundles of them for museums
ud collections. The tallies were, accordingly, burnt in the princiual stove of the House of Lords : and
to the consequent overheating of the fines proceeding in every direction from the stove through the
vood-work of the House, on October 16, 1834, nearly tne whole of both Houses of Parliament was con-
doned l^ fire.
IvBOLTxirr Dxbtobb' Cottbt, Portugal-street, Lincoln's-Inn-fields, abolisbed 1861.
Hr. IHckens has thus yiyidly sketched its characteristics : —
" A temple dedicated to the gtmlus of seediness," and " the place of dally refhge of all the shabby-
goiteel neople in London. There are more suits of old clothes in it at one time than will be offered for
nle in all Houndsditch in a twelvemonth ; and more unwashed skins and grisly beaids than all the
pomps and sliaYing^shope between Tyburn and Whitechapel could render decent between sunrise and
"<uiwt There is not a messenger or process-server attached to the Court who wears a coat that was
inade for him ; the very barristers' wigs are ill-powdered, and their curls lack orisnness. But the
r°-^' who sit below the commissioners, are, after all, the greatest curiosities. The profeadonal
Mwlishment of the more opulent of these gentlemen consists of a blue bag and a boy. They have
iK> fixed offices, their legal business being transacted in the parlours of public-houses or the yards of
Pnsons, whither they repair in crowds, and canvas for customers after the manner of oronilms-cads.
pier are of a greasy and mildewed appearance ; and if they can be said to have any vices, perhaps
wnktaig and oheating are most conspicuous among them." — Piekvfiek PiMjten.
Hasshauba and Palacb Coubt was an appendage to the royal bouse at West-
Bunster : anciently it had exclusive jurisdiction in matters connected with the royal
household, and was presided over by the Earl Marshal. It next became a minor court
of record for actions for debt, &c., within Westminster and twelve miles round it, except
the City of London; its prison being in High-street, South wark, until consolidated
^ith the Queen's Bcncb and Fleet in 1842. The C^purt, with the Enight-Marsbal for
judge, existed until December 28, 1849, when it was formally adjourned for the last
^me, and rose never to resume its sittings; the suits being transferred to the Common
Pleas and County Courts, and the records to the cbargo of the Master of the Bolls,
^e Marshalsea Court sat in South wark until 1801, and subsequently in Great Scotland-
yard, Whitehall; but it was probably first held in the ** Court of Requests," part of
^oQ Korman Palace at Westminster. Littleton, the eminent lawyer, was appointed by
Henry VI. Steward or Judge of the Marshalsea Court.
tfi "^^f^ ^^^ formerly local courts in the metropolis outside the privileged boundary of the " City :"
"^uioQs Courts of Request, and the celebrated Paiace Courf, with a jurisdiction In some respects
^^iing the Lord Maror's Court, and like that Court, under its original constitntion, having only a
*i«uea nomber of privileged counsel and attorneys. The old Courts of Bequest were swept awsj by
510 CURIOSITIES OF LONDON.
the GoDDtj Conrts' Acts. The ralwe Court saryitred, and owed its sobseqaent down&ll to the •ccideni
of an enei^retic writer for the public press having been saed there, and in consequence broaglit abocx£ «
damoor ftw its abatement as a nuisance.— ^<«MtfMi«r FulUng,
LoBD Matob's Coubt (the) has jurisdiction over all personal and mixed actioos
within the City, and is held at Qaildhall, nominally before the Lord Mayor and Alder-
men, bat really before the Recorder. The office of the Ck>art was formerly in a loo^
gallery at the west end of the Royal Exchange. The records of the Coort were saved
from the great fire at the Exchange in 1838, and have been arranged in a strong fire-
proof closet in a record-room at Guildhall by the town-derk ; with other records of the
reSgns of Edward I., Edward III., Richard XL, Henry IV., Y., and VI.; books of pire-
oedents, James I.; records from Elizabeth to George I. Frands Bancroft was an
officer of this Conrt, and despised for his mercenary oondnct, which he atoned fcr by
bequeathing lus ill-gotten wealth to build almshoosos and a schooL The Court waa^
after 1838, held in Old Jewry ; and next removed to the GuildhalL
The Lord Mayor's Court is presided over by the Beoorder, with an miUmited Jarisdictioii, boCh legal
and equitable, for oases which are within the Oity boundaries, and peculiar modes of procedure^ in pert
derived from the ancient customs of the City of I/ondon, and in part from recent Acts of ParBonicnt,
and posseesing the Teiy peculiar power of proceeding by what is caued/or«t^ otfadhairf.
Rolls Coxtbt.— In vacation the Master sits at the Rolls Hous^ in the Liberty of
the Rolls, between Chancery-lane and Fetter-lane : it is exempt from the power of the
Sheriff of Middlesex, and of every other officer, except with leave of the Master. The
Court afdyotns the Master's House and the Chapel, described at p. 215. The Hoos^
designed by Colin Campbell, was built I7l7, when Sir Joseph Jekyll was Master. A
great portion of the estate was formerly laid out in gardens, upon which has been built
the central portion of a new Record Office. Opposite the Rolls Chapel was Herflet
Inn, belonging to the priors of Nocton Park, and occupied by the Six Clerks in the
Court of Chancery, who subsequently removed to the west side of the north end of
Chancery-lane : they were abolished 1842.
When Sir William Grant was Master of the Bolls, the court sat in the evening ttom six to t«n, and
Sir William dined after the court rose : his servant, when he went to bed, left two bottles of wine on
the table, which he always found empty in the morning. Sir William lived on the ground-floor of the
Bolls House, and when showing it to his successor in the Mastership, he said : " Here are two or thrett
good rooms; this is my dinins^room; my Ubrarr and bed-room are beyond; and I am told there are
some good rooms upstairs, but I was never there.
Shsbivf'b CotTBTS (the) are held by each of the Sheriffs of London, near Guildhall^
before a judge appointed by him.
Stab Chahbbb (the) was the ancient council-chamber of the palace at Westminster,
wherein the king sat in extraordinary causes. The last-existing Star-Chamber build*
ings are described at p. 450.
Our chief metropolitan tribunals are, at this day, held in the same place, and with
hardly better accommodation, than was accorded to them at the date of Magna Charta,
when the Common Pleas was permanently fixed at Westminster HalL The demand
for a fitting Palace of Justice for the metropolis, which has been so long pressed on
the attention of the Legislature, is now about to be complied with; the diosen site
being the district (7^ acres) bounded on the north by Horseshoe-court, Yeates-
oourt, Carey-street, and Lincoln's-inn ; on the south by the Strand, and the Temple ;
on the east by Bell-yard and Temple-bar; and on the west by New Inn and
Clement's Inn. The competitive designs for the New Law Courts were exhibited to
the public in a temporary building in Old-square, Lincoln's-inn, in February, 1867.
A paper, descriptive of the older occupation of the site, entitled, " Old Houses on the
site of the New Law Courts," by the author of Curiosities of London, with eight
engraved yiews, appeared in the Illustrated London News, December 15, 1866 : it is
a piece of London topography of considerable historic intor^.
LBADENSALL STREET,
EXTENDING from ComhiU to Aldgate, and the a^'oining Market, are named
from the manor-house of Leadei^xall, which belonged to Sir Hugh Neville in 1309;
LJSI0E8TEB 8QUAEE. 511
in 1419 Simon Eyre erected upon its rite a granary, which he gave to the Corporation; and
adjoining he built a chapel in the Perpendicular style* for the market>people, Leadenhall
having tiien become a market. In this Hall were kept the artillery and other arms of
the CSty ; doles were distributed from here; in Stew's boyhood, the common beams for
weighing wool, and the scales to wdgh meal, were kept here ; and in the lofts above were
painted devices for pageants. Chamberlayne describes it, in 1726, as " a noble ancient
building, where are great markets for hides and leather, for flesh, poultry, and other
sorte of edibles." In 1730 the market-place was partly rebuilt ; and the leather-market
in 1814^ when the Chapel and other ancient portions were removed. The " Green
Yard" was a portion of the garden of the Nevilles; and the Chapel, in Bam-alley, was
inscribed " Dextra Domini exaltavit me."
Leadenhall was formerly the great meat-market. Don Pedro de RonquiUo, on virit-
ing it, said to Charles II.,*that he believed there to be more meat sold in that market
alone, than in all the kingdom of Spain in a year ; and *' he was a very good judge."
Beneath No. 71, Leadenhall-street is the ancient chapel of St Michael, Aldgate (tee
Cbtpts, p. 803). No. 153 has an Early English crypt Here, too, at " the Two
Fan8»" Peter Motteuz, the translator of Babelais and Don Quixote, kept an India
House for " China and Japan wares, fans, tea» muslins, pictures, arreck, and other
Indian goods ;" rich brocades^ Dutch atlases, and other foreign rilki^ fine Flanders laoe
and linens. (Speeiator, Nos. 288 and 552, by Steele). Motteux wgrote a poem upon
Tea: he was found dead (murdered) on his birthday, Feb. 19, 1717-18, in a house of
ill-fome in Star-court, Butcher-row, Temple Bar.
In Leadenhall-street are the cborches of St. Andrew Undershaft (ses p. 150) and
St. Catherine Cree (p. 156). On the wall of the latter is a large sun-diial ; and at
the east end a curious gateway, built 1631. The churchyard was noted for perfor-
mances of miracle-plays^ the earliest known of which relates to St. Catherine. {See also
East India Housb, pp. 818, 319).
Nearly oppodte the rite of the East India House, now occupied by handsome stone-
fronted buildings, is St. Mary Axe, a street named from the diurch of St. Mary Axe,
which was " suppressed and letten to be a warehouse" about the year 1565; and the
church derived its particular derignation from a holy relic it poes^sed : *' an axe, oon
of the iy that the xjmd Virgins were behedyd w V— (5^(2 £iU, 5 Senrtf VIIL)
This church was united to St Andrew Undershaft^ in the above year. Nearly
opporite^ in 1864^ was taken down a four-storied Tudor house, with three over-
hanging floors, the front entirely of wood and plaster ; and some fine oak-panelled
interiors.
At Na 16, St Mary Axe, Hved Joseph Denison, the wealthy banker : here were
bom his eldest danghter, afterwards Marchioness Conyngham ; and his son, William
Joseph Denison, M.P., who, dying in 1849, bequeathed two millions and a half of money,
settled on his nephew. Lord Albert Denison, afterwards Baron Londesborough.
ZSICS8TSB SQUARE,
lyi/ ITU IN memory, was called Leicester Fields, firom the manrion at its north-east
V V comer, buUt for Robert Sydn^, Earl of Leicester, who died 1677. It was let to
Elizabeth Queen of Bohemia, daughter of James I. : she died here 1661. Colbert and
Prince Eugene resided here. But the fame of Leicester House duefly rests upon
its having been bought by the Prince of Wales» afterwards Qeorge II„ when he had
quarrelled with his fiiither and received the royal command to quit St James's. When
George II. had a rimilar quarrel with his son Frederick, the Prince of Wales took up his
residence^ as his fitther had done before him, at Ldcester Houses which Pennant happily
describes as "succesrively the pouting-place of Princes." Walpole tells us that
Frederick, Prince of Wales added to Leicester House the manrion westward — Savile
House— fbr his children; a communication betog made between the two houses, as Sir
John Fielding phrased it» in 1777> " fbr the more immediate intercourse of the royal
fkmily.'' Hence^ much of the celebrity of Leicester House became extended to Savile
Houses wherein, probably, was performed AdcUson's play of Cato by the junior
branehei of the l^inoe of Wales's household. Prince Qeorge pUying Fortius. The
512 CURIOSITIES OF LONDON.
Prince resided here until hi> aocenion to the throne as George 1 11^ when* in front of
the mannon, he was first hailed as King. The last Royal tenant of Leicester Hoose
was the Duke of Gloucester, grandson of George II. The mansion was next let to Sir
Ashton Lever for his museum, which was removed in 1788. Ldoester House was then
taken down: SavUe House heing left standing. It had, however, been proposed
to build here a theatre ; for, in the Ladie^ Mageudne, 1790, we read, "The axto of the
new opera-house is settled : Leicester-square— 'the mound occupied by Lacester House."
On the site of its gardens was built New Lisle-street, in 1791. Eastvrard was the door
which was unceremoniously cut through the wall of the garden of Home, the poolterer,
to make an outlet towards Newport Market for the convenience of the Prince of Wales's
domestics. How the poulterer resisted the encroachment, and triumphed over the
heir-apparent of the English crown, and the obnoziotis door was removed, will be re-
membered, as well as its influence on the political aspirations of the poulterer's son.
John Home Tooke. Westward was built Leicester-street, where^ in 1796, Charles
Bibdin, the song-writer, built his theatre, the " Sans Souci."
Savile House was sometimes cslled Aylesbniy House, fh>m the Earl of Aylesbury
residing here. It was let as a town-house for people of fkshion : here the £2arl of Car-
marthen entertained Peter the Great. It belonged to the Savile family, and here re-
rided Sir George Savile, M.P., in 1780, when, in the Riots, his house was stripped of its
valuable fumiturs, books, and paintings, which the rioters burnt in the Fields. The
Rev. W. Mason, in a letter to Walpole, 1778, speaks of the political wisdom of Sir
George Savile, " who chooses this very moment to indispose the whole body of Dissen-
ters towards him and his party by rising up the champion of the Papists." Naturally,
this patron of toleration suffered, and in the Riots " the rails torn from Sir George's house
were the chief weapons and instruments of the mob." Their conduct was ferocious;
for the accounts state Sir George's life to have been shortened by their threats. How-
ever, he must have been a strong partisan, for Wilberforce notes : " Sir Geoi^
Savile was chosen member for Yorkshire by the Whig g^randees in the Marquis of
Rockingham's dining-room." The attack upon Savile House by the Rioters of 1780 is
referred to in a letter to Richard Shackletou from Edmund Burke, who then lived in
Cbarles-street, St. James's; telling how he spent his nights with other volunteer
friends of rank in guarding Sir George Savile's house: — "For fbur nights^" he
says, "I kept watch at Lord Rockingham's, or Sir George Savile's^ whose houses
were garrisoned by a strong body of soldiers, together with numbers of true friends
of rank."
At the commencement of the present century, Savile House was rebuilt by the
late Mr. Samuel Page, of Dulwich, an architect of some eminence at the time.
The famous Chancery suit of "Pago o. Linwood and others," which lasted forty
years, related to this property. Lord Chancellor Cotteuham, when Mr. Pepys, was
counsel for the plaintiff; and Mr. Sugden, now Lord St. Leonards, was counsel for
Miss Linwood.
Mist lAnwood^t Needlework was exhibited at Savile House from the commencement
of the present century until the year after her death in 1845, in her 90th year. She
worked her first picture when thirteen years old, and the last piece when seventy-eight
years. The designs were executed with fine crewels dyed expressly for her, on a thid:
tammy, and were entirely drawn and embroidered by herself. In 1785, tiie pictures
were exhibited to the Royal Family at Windsor; next at the Pantheon, Oxford-street;
removed in 1798 to the Hanover-square Rooms ; and then to Leicester-square. The
collection oonasted of sixty-four pictures, including a portrait of Miss Linwood, at 19,
from a crayon painting by Russell ; her first piece. Head of St. Peter (Gnido) ; Salvator
Mundi (Carlo Dolci), for which 3000 guineas had been refused (this picture was be-
queathed by Miss Linwood to her Majesty); Woodman in a Storm (Ghunsborough);
•f ephtha's Rash Vow (Opie). The pictures were sold by auction, by Christie and
Manson, at Savile House, April 23, 1846, when the Judgment upon Cain, which occu-
pied ten years working, brought 64/. If. ; the price of neither of the other pictures ex-
ceeding 40^. The original Hubert and Arthur, by Northcote, sold for 38^ 17«. The
entire sale did not realize lOOOZ.
At Savile House the National Political Union held its Reform meetings; and hen
LEICE8TEB-8QUABE. 513
was exhibited, in 184d, an extensive moving Panorama of the MiasiBsippi River, &o.
The place has since been a very Noah's Ark of exbilutions, of greater variety than deli-
cacy. The large boilding, Savile Honaei, was destroyed by fire in less than two bourse
on the night of Febmaiy 28, 1865.
Leicester-square was built between 1630 and 1671. In 1677, rows of elm-trees
extended in the fields nearly half the width of the present Square, which was endosed
about 1738. In 1720, it was described as "ordinarily built and inhabited, except the
west fddo, towards the fields, where there is a yeiy good house and curious garden
which fronts the fields." In the centre, upon a sculptured stone pedestal, is an equestrian
metal statue of George I., modelled by C. Buchard for the Duke of Chandos, and brought
from Canons in 1747, when it was purchased by the inhabitants of the Square : it vras
"finely gilt," and within memory was regilt; but its history is much disputed.*
Over this statue was built a oolosial Model oi the Earth, which became one of the
most intellectual exhibitions of the metropolis.
The ground wm leased, in 18S1. for ten yesn, for 90002^ to lir. Wyld, the geographer, for whom wm
erected here (H. R. Abraluun, architect), a eircalar bnil<Ung 90 fbet acroest endoong a Globe 90 feet
4 inchei in diameter, and lighted by day from the oentre of the dome (as at the Pantheon at Rome), and
by OM at night The frame of the Qlobe oonaisted of horliontal xiM» battened to receiye the plaater
mooelling, thna to figure the earth's surfkce on the inside instead of the oatside of a sphere, and to
show at one view the physical ftatnree of the world. The visitor passed into the interior of Uie Olobe^
and by a winding staircase proceeded romid it, viewing everr part or the model at loor fiiet distance ttom
the me. The snle was ten miles to an inch horixontd, ana one mile to an inch vertical, so as effiactiyely
to exhibit the details of hill and valley, lake and river: the great oceans ooonpying nearly 160.000,000
a^oare miles; and the old and new continents, and all the islands, only 00,000,000 square miles; the
gigantic model being made np of some thousand castings in plaster. The CSrcumpolar Regions were
aimilarly illustrated. At the termination of the lease taa building and Globe were remo^ e 1.
At No. 47, Leioester-square, west ride. Sir Joshua Reynolds lived firom 1761 till his
death in 1792. Here he built a gallery for his works, and set up a gay coach, upon the
panels of which he painted the Four Seasons.
Here were given those fomous dinner-parties, the first great example in this country "of a cordial
intercourse between parsons of distinguished pretensions of all kinds : poets, phvsidans, lawyers, deani^
historians, aetors, temporal and spiritual peers. House of Commons men, men or science, men of letter^
painters, philosophers, and lovers of the arts, meeting on a ground of hearty ease, good humour, and
pleasantry, whlon exalt my respect for the memory of Reynolds. It was no prim fine table he set them
down to. Often was the dinner-board prepared fbr seven or eight required to accommodate itself to fifteen
oar sixteen J for often, on the very eve of dinner, would Sir Joshua tempt afternoon visitors with intima-
tion that Johnson, or Garrick, or Goldsmith, was to dine there."— Forster's L^* qf Goldtauik, p. S68.
Sir Joshua painted in an octagonal room ; the sticks of his brushes were 18 inches
long ; he held his palettes by handle ; one of mahogany, 11 by 7 inches, is possessed
by Mr. Cribb, King-street, Covent-garden, whose father received it from Sir Joshua's
niece, the Marchioness of Thomond. Here, in 1790, the good-natured bachelor P.RJ^.
painted for two schoolboys a flag bearing the Boyal arms* which was borne at the next
breaking-up of King's Academy, Chapel-street, Sobo.
Reynolds came to town in 1740, and, probably, lived during his apprenticeship of two yean at
Hudson's house, now Noa. 66 and 66, Great Queen-street, Linooln*s-inn-nelds ; on renaming from Italy
he had rooms at 104^ St. Martin's-lane, ThomhiU's and Hayman's house, in front of the first studio of
Roubiliac; the site of the latter Is now occupied by a Friends' Meettng-honae, but, intermediately, was
the subscription drawing-academy under Moser. From St Maxtin's-lane, in 176S, Reynolds removed to
a whole house, No. 6, Great Newport-street. In 1760 he removed, for the last time, to No. 47, Leicester-
square. On going to Great Newport-street, he raised his price for heads to twelve guineas, and. in a
few years, to fifteen guineas. In 1768 he had no ftwer than 160 sitters, and worked prodigiously hard ;
the number of sittings for each portrait varies flrom five to sixteen. In 1760 he got twen^ guineas
for a head : the following year twenty-five guineas ; soon after this he was earning 60002. a vear. ' He
left his residuary legatee, the Marchioness of Thomond, nearly, one of the editors thinks, 100,0002^ ; and
to others what was, prolMbly, worth nearly 20,0002.
The house was afterwards the Western Literary and Scientific Institution, when was
added a theatre, designed by George Godwin, F.R.S., for lectures. The premises are
now occupied by Pnttick and Simpson, the book-auctioneers: the noble staircase
remains, and the wine-cellar is now used as a strong-room.
On the oppoute side of the Square, in the house subsequently the northern wing of
the Sabloniire Hotel, lived William Hogarth from 1783 ; his name upon a brass-plate
on the door, and the sign of the Golden Head over it: this head, of pieces of
cork glued together, Smith (in his Life of NoUehem) tells us was cut by Hogarth's
* This statue has also been described as that of the Duke of Cumberland, the hero of Culleden,
which may have arisen from the Duke's birth at Leicester House hi 1721. The Earl of Aylesbury, one
of the trustees of the Canons estate^ and who resided in Leioester^quaie^ may have influenoed the
statue being placed here.
L L
514 OJmiOBJTIES OF LONDON.
own hand. In the Smropean Magazine for 1801, it is stated that the apart-
ment which Hogarth had erected for painting waa still in existence as the InlUard-
room of the Sabloni^, for which ita top lighting would peeoliarly adapt ii.
Hogarth uaually took his evening walk within the endosnie of the aqnare^ in a scnrlet
roqnelanre and cocked hat. Hogarth published, by aubseription, the Harlofa and Hake's
Ftogreases, and other prints : he died here suddenly, Oct 26, 1764. Next door Ihred
John Hunter from 1788 : in the rear he built rooms for his anatomical collection, leotmei^
dissection, Sunday-evening medical levees, &c ; and from her^ in 1793, Hunter wai
buried in St. Martin's Chureh. To No. 28, also east, was removed the National Repository
(on the plan of the ArU et Mi^en at Faiis) from the King^s Mews, taken down in 1830;
and here was temporari^ housed, in 1886, the Museum of the Zoological Sodety.
In the centre (^ the east side of the Square the l^amopiietm oj Science and Art was
erected 1852-8, by a chartered company for a polytechnic exhibition : it has a pair
of minarets nearly 100 feet high, a domed roof, and other eaatem features. The
interior had a hall 97 feet in diameter, lecture-theatres, laboratory, colossal machinery
for experiments ; an electrifying machine, plate eight feet diameter, &c The building
is now the Alhambra Palace, a gigantic music hall.
JBwford'e Panorama, at the north-east angle of lioioester-square, was erected in
1783, by a number of patrons of the arts, who were repaid thdr capital by Robert
Barker, the inventor of the Piworania, succeeded by Heniy Aston Buker, and John
and Robert Burford. The building is now a French ChapeL
In LeieeHer-plaoe, Charles Dibdin, the song-writer, buUt in 1796 the Sans Send
theatre for his musical entertainment : the premises, No. 2, now an hotel, occupy the
mte of The Feathers public-house, frequented by "Athenian Stuart;" Scott, the
marine painter; Luke Sullivan, the miniature painter, who engraved Hogarth's March
to Finchley ; Capt. Grose and Mr. Heame, the antiquaries; Henderson, the actor;
John IreUmd, editor of Hogarth MoraUted, &c.
In Lisle-street is the Royal Society of Miuidans, founded in 1738 for the benefit of
the families of indigent musicians : it originated in the two orphan sons of Elaitch, the
oboist, being seen driving milch-asBes down the Haymarket. In Lisle-street lived
Henry Bone, R.A., the enamel-painter, who received for an enamel, 18 by 16 inches,
2200 gxuneas : he died 1834, aged 80, leaving a long series of Elizabethan portraits.
His collection of beautiful enamels was dispersed by auction, in March, 1856.
In Cranbonrne-alley (named from the second title of the Marquis of Salisbury, the
ground-landlord), lived EUis Gamble, silversmith, to whom Hogarth was apprenticed
to learn silver-plate engraving, and engraving on copper; and from 1718 till 1724 he
earned his livelihood by engraving arms, crests, ciphers, shop-bills, &c An impression
of Hogarth's allegorical shop-card, dated 1720, has been sold for 252. The fione of the
place had dwindled to a " Cranboume-alley bonnet," ere Cranboume-street was built.
In St. Martin* S'Str est, next the chapel, is the last town reddence of Sir Isaac Newton,
who removed here, in 1710, from Jermyn-street : upon the roof is a small observatory,
built by a subsequent tenant, a Frenchman, but long shown as Newton's. In a scarce
pamphlet, A List of the Boyal Society, Sfc, in 1718, we find : ** Sir Isaac Newton,
St. Martin's-street, Leicester-fields." The house was subsequently tenanted by Dr.
Burney, when writing his History of Music : and his daughter, Fanny, wrote here her
novel of Evelina. Mr. Bewley, ** the philosopher of Masrangham," died here, during
a visit to Dr. Burney, who, in an anecdote related to Boswell {I^fe qf Johnson),
erroneously states Newton to have died here : he died at Kensington (see p. 488).
Fanny Burney (Madame lyArblay), writes f^om here in 1779 and 1780 (Dion/ and LetUn, toI. i.}|
and Mr. Thrale, wriUng to Miss Barney, styles the inmates of the house In St. Martln's-street, "dear
Newloniaiu"
In Oreen-street, at now No. 11, lived William WooUett^ the landscape and historical
eng^ver, known by his masterly plates of Wilson's pictures and his battle-pieces : when
he had finished a plate, he used to fire a cannon on the roof of his house : his portrut^
by Stuart, hangs in the Vernon Collection. He died 1785, and is buried at Old St.
Pancras ; his grave-stones were restored by the Graphic Society in 1846.
In Orange-court, Leicester-fields, lodged Opie, the painter; and here was bom
Dec. 10, 1745, Thomas Holcroft, his father, a shoemaker.
** Cradled in poverty, with no education save what he could pick up for himself, amid incessant
struffgles fox bare existenoe^by turns a pedlar, a stable-boy, a shoemaker, and a strollingwplajep-bs
LEVELS.
615
xet eontriTed to rannoiuit the miNt untoward dnramataiioea, and at last took hia ^^oe among the moat
dlattaffidahed writers of his age as a norelist, a dramatist^ and a translator.*'— Prs/oM to HolerqfV$
Zift, hj William HazUtt
Leicoster-aquare baa long been the resort and habitat of fordg^en ; and Maitknd
(1789) deacribBs the pariah (St. Anne's) so greatly abounding with French, *' that it is
an easy matter for a stranger to imagine himself in France." Of the Hoteb in the
Square, the principal were Hnntley's and Bronet's ; and La Sabloni^e, named from the
^noas Pariffian cook.
LEVELS.
THE data for the following Lerels, from actual sorv^ and private docomenti^
adopting the standard of Trinity High Water Mark at London Bridge, have
been oommunicated through the oomrtesy of Mr. Wyld, the geographer*
Feet
Berketer-eqaare . • • 67
Brltlah Haseam 72
BromptoQ-sqaare 12
Galedonian-road; OreAt Northern Bailwi^ 112
Camden Town : Brecknock Arms .... IfiO
Camden Town: London and North- Western
BaUway Station lOO
Clapham Common (S.W.) 83
I>rarr-l«ne» opposite Great Qoeen-street • 66
Farrmgdon-stroet 11
Glooeester-road, Eensingtoii 18
Gtdldhall, King-street 87
Hampatead Heath . • 4M
(84 ftet higher than the cross of St Paul's
Oatbedral.)
Hampstead Yale (Waterworks) .... 207
(6 reet higher than the top of the Monu-
ment)
HBTerstoekHDl: Orphan School .... 268
(28 feet higher than the steeple of St
Bride's Cboreh, Fleet-street.)
Highbury Bam 1S2
(12 feet higher than the towers of 8t
Michael's Church, Comhill, and St
Dunstan's, Fleet-street.)
Oghgate Archway (top) 817
» „ Tavem 179
Kgbgate Chapel (removed) 412
Hollowly: New City Prison (surflMe) . • 112
Homsey Wood House and Tavern (site) . 147
Hyde-park : site of Great Exhibition Build-
ing 62
Islington t Angel Inn 99
n Ball's Fond-road 69
n Green 116
Mansion House 82
New Oxford-street, opposite Charbtte^t
BIoomsbuzT 72
New River : Stoke Newington fieservoir . 87
New-road: 6ower«treet 76
Nottingwhill (by St John's Wood) ... 86
Notting-bill Reservoir 123
Nunhead Cemetery Hill 189
(14 feet higher than theqrfre of St Giles's
Church.)
Fark-lane, halfway 68
Feet
FentonviUe Prison (surfaee) ...... 120
Begenf B-parfc : York and Albany .... 99
(The houses in Circus-road, St John's
Wood, jire level with the summit of
Primrose HilL)
Serpentine (surflue) 88
Shooter's-hUl 412
Shoreditch Workhouse, Eingaland-road . 61
Smithfleld: St Bartholomew's Hospital . 46
Stamford-hiU 97
Strand, average 20
Westboume-terraoe, Hyde-park - nrdena
(ground-floor) ; 70 feet above hign-water
mark, and on a level with the attics of
Eaton and Belgrave-squares.
Westminster: the ftirther we proceed from
the river, tiiie lower ^ ground becomes,
thus:—
Above
high-water
mark.
St Margaief s-street» near (Tanning's
statue 6 2|
MiUbank-street 4 4|
West-end of Tothill-etreet 9
Broad-way •• 9
Kew-way 6|
01dFye-«treet 61
Below
high-water.
New Tothill-street • • S|
Road in front of Mr. Slliof s dwelling-
house HI
Mr. Satdmeli, ik€ ArdUUel.
Fahner's Village
The architect of the New Prison was com-
pelled to raise the ground 7 ftet; the ground
has also been much raised around the New
Palace, over and above that which was made
when the Birdcage Walk was carried over the
aite of Rosamond's Fond.
Again, the sill of a door in Fhrk-etreet is
somewhat more than 8 feet hi^ier than the sQl
of • door in Tothillp«tteet I)artmouth-ttreet
only intervening.
.TVofli the Report of the Conminionenfor ihe Improeement qf the MeUropoUe, 1848.
Chatham-place (pavement at the tt^ of
the Bridge Stain)
Fleet-street (east end of), coitre of road-
way ...
Opposite St Bride's Church
M Crown-court . .
Water-lane . . .
St. Dunstan's-court
Fetter-lane . . .
St Dunstan's Chur.
Chancery-lane . •
^ n At Temple Bar
The Strand. St Clement's Church (east
end)
m Opposite Arundd-ftreet . .
«•
M
»
Ft in.
16 8
16 11
21 2
n
n
n
M
27
80
84
88
6
7
1
4
88 6
36 6
86 3
80 9
84 8
The Strand. Opposite Norfolk-street • .
„ If Surrey street • •
« M Somerset House .
WelUngton-slreet .
Exeter-street . .
Southampton-at .
Agar-street . . .
Hungerford Market
Morlev'8Hotel(west
angle) ....
StatueofChariesI
Whitehall. Opposite Craig's-oourt . .
M M Scotland-yard . .
Whitehall-place (west end)
Whitehall-plaoe (east end)
L I. 2
M
l»
M
n
»
I*
»»
ft
I*
I*
Ft
in.
86
7
37
2
89
8
37
S
36
7
86
1
86
0
28
u
19
9
U
0
6
1
4
6
4
8
6
10
516 CURIOSITIES OF LONDON.
The hufheH gromnd in London it aboot the middle of Fmyer-tlky, beiweeu Ne«r-
gate-«treet and Pbternoster-roir ; the spot being denoted hy a boy fitting npona
pannier, upon a pedertal, all of stone ; the latter inBcribed, '* Whkit ys hays boyost
THS CiTTT BoyiTD, TST 8TILL THIS 18 THE HIGH*- OROYirD. AtGTST THV 27, leSS."
The made groond and aocumolated cUbru oocnrring in the City, and anciently
populated parts adjacent, Taries from 8 to 18 feet in thickness ; in Westnunster, from
6 to 12 feet
LI3BAEZE8.
* rPHE greatest city In the world is destitute of a paUie library,'* irzote Gibbon
-L towards the close of the last century; since which period mndi has been done
to afford the msssos Jacilities for mental coltore by an open pnbUe library tern which
books may be taken oat.
AoBicuLTTTBiL SociETT ov Ekglakd (Botal), 12, Hanover-sqoare; lifaniy of the
Board of Agricoltor^ increased by parchases, &c
AHTiQUAxmi, SooiBTT OF, Somerset Hoose : valoable coUections of red Broadstdes
and Ballads; rare Prints, iUostrating Ancient London; the Book of St. Albans, fid.
St. Albans, 1486, finest state. Among the MSS.!are,! 1^ Cartnlaiy of the Abbey of
Peterborongh. 2. Original MS. of Weever's I\iner€U Mbnnmente, 3. Indentores tat
Coining Honey' in England and Ireland, from]Bl^^ard 'I. to Elizabeth. 4. The
" Winton Domesday," on 33 leaves of vellnm, and in the original stamped cuirbonilli
covers : this MS. (temp, Edward I.) contains an exact aoooont of every tenement in
Winchester at that period. 6. Original Letters of Antiquaries and Literary men
(18th oentury). 6. Letters of Eminent Englishmen (l7th century). Autograph of
John Bunyan, doubtfuL The Society's Transactions, Arckaologia, commenced 1710.
The library consists of nearly 10,000 volumes, and ia richest in topography, its
collection of county histories, &c
Abohjeolooioal Societibs, the several, have libraries and museums.
Abtillxbt GsonrD, or Military Yard, behind Leicester House.
Near Ldoester-flelda, iipcm the dte of Oenard-ttreet, was a pieoe <of ground waDcd in hj Prinee
Henry, eldest son of James I. for the ezerdie of arms; where .were, an armoury, and a well-ftuniehed
library of books relating to feats of arms, chivalry, military affairs, encamping, fortiQcation, in all
languages, and kept by a learned librarian. It was called the Artillery Grouna ; and after the Ueaiora-
tion oiCharles II. it was bought by Lord Gerard, and let foi boilding, abont 1677.
AsiATio Socnrrr (Botal), 5, New Burlington-street: scarce books and MSS.,
including a oollection of. Sanscrit MSS., formed by Cdonel; Tod in Bajasthan. Here
is a Chinese library, of which see the catalogue, by (he Bev. S. Kidd, 1838.
AsTBONOiiiCAL SociBTT (Botal), Somerset House: valuable collection of astro-
nomical works, including Peter Apian's Opne C^Bsareum, printed at Ingolstadt in 1540 ;
and the library of the Mathematical Society, from Spitalfields.
Baitk ov Ehglakd Libraby, instituted by the Directors for the use of the clerks^
was opened May, 1850; the Court having voted 600Z. for the purchase of books.
BASBBB-SnsaBOHs' HalIi» Monkwell-street : a curious oollection of rare books on
olden Anatomy. ...
Beafuokt IirsTirvnoir, Mile-end, built and endowed with 18,000/. by Mr. Barber
Beaumont, has a library of 4000 volumes, a muric-hall, and museum of natural history.
BiBUi Society, Bbitish and Fobsiok, 10 Earl-street, Blackfriars : collection of
versions of the Scriptures, in various languages or dialects. The bulk of this invaluable
hiblical library consists of copies of the Scriptures, including, in addition to those in
which the Bible Society has been immediately concerned, rare copies of the first or
early editions of the Bible in various languages; and no national, collegiate, or private
biblical library can approach that of the Society. In addition to the printed Bibles,
there are also valuable copies of more or less of the Scriptures in manuscript, in about
fifty different languages, some of which have never yet appeared in print. A consider-
able portion of this curious collection consists of lexicons, grammars, and other philo-
kgic treatises, which refer to the business of translation. This libruy contaiu&also a
LIBBABIE8. 617
large assortment of oommentaries, liturgies, catechisms, books of topography and travels,
and the reports of all the Bible Societies in the world. Next in attraction to the Bibles
in all languages, and the MSS. above referred to, is a collection of twelve folio volumes
in manuscript, containing the history of the translations in 94 languages, in which the
Society had been concerned down to 1829; and similar materials are preserved for
oontinning these historio records to the present time. Here also are early versions of
the Scriptures in such tongues as Welsh and Bohemian ; and invaluable Ethiopic and
Mexican manuscripts. Some of its rarest curiosities it owes to the liberality of Prince
liouis Luden Bonaparte, who presented it with copies of the translations of the
versions of St. Matthew he has recently caused to be executed in Basque, and in the
lowland Scotch dialect. Of the former of these only twelve, of the latter only eighteen
copies have been printed.
BOTAVIQAL SocTBTY, 20, Bcdford-street, Covent-garden, has a library of works on
Ixjtany for reference and circulation; besides British and general herbaria for the
exchange of specimens.
BsiTiSH Mussxju. (See Mfbsuhs.)
Chastsb-House, Aldersgate : a collection presented by booksellers and others for
the reading of the Brotherhood. In 1851 Queen Victoria presented the QutirierUf
Seview, 86 vols.
Chslssa Hospital : History, Voyages, and Travels, and Military Memoirs, News-
papers, and PeriocUcals for the pensionoV reading.
Chbist'b Hospital, Newgate-street, " formerly the Grey Friars, hath a neat library
for the use of the masters and scholars ; besides a collection of mathematical instru>
ments, globes, ships, with all their rigging, for the instruction of the lads designed for
the sea." (JT. Zemaine, 1790.) To the library of MSS., Whittington was a great
benefactor. The most considerable Franciscan collection of books seems to have been
at the London monastery, on the site of Christ's Hospital, Newgate-street, for which
the first stone of a new building was laid by Sir Richard Whittington, on the 21>>t of
October, 1421. After it was completed, 100 marks were expended on a transcript of
the Works of Nicholas de Lira, to be chained in the library. (Stow's Survey, by
Strype.) whittington's Library was a handsome room, 129 feet long, and 31 feet
broad, wainscoted throughout, and fitted with shelves neatiy carved, with desks and
settles : it formed the northern nde of the quadrangle.
Chitboh Misbiokaby Society, Salisbury-square, Fleet-street: miscellaneous col-
lection, rich in voyages and travels.
City op Lovdon iKSTrniTiON, Aldersgate-street, commenced in 1826, contained
upwards of 7000 volumes for reference and drculation ; dispersed in 1852, wh^n the
Institution was dissolved.
CiTiL Ekoikbebs (Ikbtitutiok op), 25, Great George-street, Westminster : up-
wards of 3000 volumes, and 1600 tracts, upon bridges, canals, railways, roads, docka^
navigation, ports, rivers, and water ; Transactions of Societies, Parliamentary Reports,
&c. Here are some volumes of MS. observations by Telford in his early engineering
career. This library has the advantage of a printed catalogue, admirably arranged by
C. Manby, Secretary to the Institution.
Clockhakebb' CoiiPAirr, London Tavern, Bishopsgate-street : a lending library of
Taluable English and fordgn works on Horology and the allied sdences, with a printed
oetalogue.
Clttb-Hovbbs (The) have extensive general libraries.
College op Physicians, Pall Mall East. (See p. 277.) In this collection are the
libraries of Selden and the Marquis of Dorchester ; and Sir Theodore Mayeme, phyrician
to James I. ^
College op Subgboks, Linooln's-inn-flelds : library commenced by John Hunter's
donation of his published works on Anatomy and Surgery in 1786, the unique auto-
graph letter accompanying which is possessed by Mr. Stone, the present Librarian.
Sir Charles Blicke bequeathed his medical library, and 300^ ; and the collection now
518 0UBI08ITIE8 OF LONDON.
nombers 80,000 volumes (cost 2d,000Z.) ; mostly works on the history, sdenoe, and
practice of medicine and the coUateral sdences: its collection of Transactiona and
Journals is very perfect.
AmoDffthe CiiriorilU$iM *' Approved UedidnM and CordiaU BecdpiM," dated 1680: it bean ia
■erend places the signature and mitiala of Shakspeare ; but it was boaght at the sale of forger Irdaadla
effects. Among the early books are a Comp^dimm Medieimm notukun Medieu Mi CjfrwrgU iifiKiii—^
1£10, by Gilbertaa Anglicoa, ciro. 1230 : the works of JoAw <if Oaddetdtn, or Jokaamm Am^iaia, cire.
1320. Herbarium Oermamie^, 14B6, beaatlfallr illominaled, and bound in oak, braas omam^ta^ dated
1640 ; a collection of engraved portraits of medical men, formerly Possessed by Faontleroj, the banker,
and preaented by him to William Wadd, the fkoete surgeon. The library, designed by Barry, exteods ttie
entire length of the College ftcade; above the bookcases are a gallery and portraits of Hanrey, Chesel-
den, Nesbitt, Nourae, BUsard, Hunter, Pott, Ac. ; and a4}oudng is a room with a collection or Voyages
and TniTels, works on Natural Histoi7 and Sdenoe. Membeia of the College can introdnco a Tisiior.
CoBPOSATiOK ov LoKDON LiBBAST, Ghiildhall. It appears that in 1411 the
€hiildball College was fhmished with a library founded by the execntors of iUdiard
Whittington, and that to this was added a portion of the Ubraiy of John Carpenter,
the Town Clerk of the City, and the founder of the City of London SchooL The will
of Carpenter says :— " I direct, that if any good or rare books shall be fonnd amoB^
the residue of my goods which, by the discretion of Masters William Idchfield and
Beginald Pocock, may seem necessary for the common library at Ghiildhall, for the
profit of the students there and those discoursing to the common people, then I will
and bequeath that those books be placed by my executors and chained in that library,
under sudi form that the visitors and students thereof may be the sooner admaniehed
to pray for my souL" It appears that in 1467 John Clipstone, priest and bedeman,
was appointed librarian. He was succeeded, in 1510, by Edmund Alison, also a priest;
and at this date, according to Stow, the books constituted " a iayre and large librarie."
According to this dironider, the whole of these books, four carts full, were borrowed
by Edward Duke of Somerset, the Lord Protector, with a promise of thdr speedy
return, which, however, never took place. The citizens, thus deprived of their library,
formed a new collection, of which but littie is known, except that it was entirely
destroyed in the Fire of 1666. From that period it does not appear that any fresh
library was formed to the present one, founded in 1824^ and which now numbers about
25,000 volumes. In 1828 was pubUshed A CakUogue of the books, to which have anoe
been made valuable additions. It is enriched with a choice collection of 950 original Boyal
proclamations, published by King Charles I., the Parliament, the Protector, Charles II.,
James IL, and William III. ; also 400 volumes of Hebrew and Babbinical literature^
presented by Mr. Philip Sakmons. The present Catalogue contains a valuable Index
of names, ably compiled by the librarian, Mr. W. H. OveralL
The Library is rich in works relating to the Cities of London and Westminster, and
the Borough of Southwark ; rare tracts preceding, accompanying, and following the
Commonwodth ; and several volumes of original proclamations, temp, 1638 to 1698.
Here are Domesday Survey and the Moncuticon ; in history. Yen. Bede, Matthew
P&ris, Decern Scripioree, and other old English chroniclers; in foreign histoiy,
Ksempfer, Pontoppidan, Wormius, Duhalde, D'Herbelot, Mezeray, &c; Hakluyfs
Voyayes, first edit, black letter, and Evans's very brilliant edit. 5 vols. 4to ; Lysons's
JSnviroM of London, with drawings, prints, and armorial bearings, 13 thick volumes^
perhaps the most elaborately illustrated work extant. Among the recent additions are:
the great French work on Egypt, 14 vols, atlas folio, and 9 vols, folio letterpress;
II Vaticano, by Erasmus Pistolesi, 8 vols, folio ; M'Kenney's Sistory of the Indian
Tribes of North America (superb coloured engravings), 3 vols, folio. Portfolios of
Maps, Views, and Plans of London, of various dates fit}m Aggas to Stanford. The
library of the Dutch Church, Austinfriars, has been deposited here with the MSS.
and letters of the early Beformers and men of science.
Book BarUiet.-^yuremburg ChronicU, 1403, with MS. Notes, sixteenth eentozy, and Lists of BailiA,
Mayors, and Sherifb of London, Ist Rich. I. to 4 Hen. VIII., with mai^nal notes of events: woodcuts,
moetW coloured. Comolaintqf Boderick Mar»^ sometime a Gray Fryare (Geneva), said by Kennet to
have Seen written by Henrr Brincklow, a London merchant fiionner's ProJUabU and Neeeuary Doc
trine, bl. 1. 1666. Declaration of Bonner's Article's, bl. 1. 1861. A Boke made by John Fryth, PiTSoner
in the Tower of London, bl. L 1646. The Ajctee of BnffUek Fotory at , by John Bale, bl. 1 . 1646. J%t Ckuta
SfSeUh (by Sir Ja Elyot, bl. 1. 1541. The Bwrnvuge of Faule't Ckurek, Ac. (written aninst Popeiy,
y PUkington, Bishop of Dorham), bl. 1. 1581. Legenda Sanetvrwu. fol. bl. 1. n. d. Oodaa Sinaiiicui,
presented bj the Bmpezor of Boana. A collection of earlj printed P^ys and Pageants.
LIBRABIE8. 519
Among the autographic Cfurionties \a the Charter granted hy William the Con-
qneror to the City of London in 1067. It is beantifblly written in Saxon characters,
ill about four lines, upon a slip of parchment six inches long and one broad.
Also, In a glass-case, is the signature of Shakspeare, purchased in 1843, by the Cor-
poration of London for 145/. : it is affixed to a deed of bargain and sale of " all that
messuage or tente with the app'tennes lyeing and being in the blackfryers in London,
neare the Wardrobe," by Henry Walker to William Shakspeare, dated March 10,
1612-13, and has the seals attadied, and the names of the attesting witnesses, on the
back. The house is described as "abutting upon a streete leading down to Pudle
wharffe" (now St. Andrew's Hill), and was in Ireland-yard, named after the tenant,
"William Ireland, about the time of the above sale ; it was bequeathed by Shakspeare in
his will to his daughter, Susannah Hall. Here, too^ is the sig^-stone of the Boards
Mead Tavern, Tbe Museum attached to the Library is particularly rich in antiqui-
ties discovered in the City of London during numerous excavations.
CoTTONiAK ItiBBJJLY (The), uow in the British Museum, was collected by Sir Robert
Bruce Cotton, the learned antiquary, who greatly profited by the dissolution of monas-
teries half a century before, by which the records, charters, and instruments were
thrown into private hands. Sir Robert Cotton was the firiend of Camden, and greatly
assisted him in his JBriianma, The library was kept at Cotton House, at the west end
of Westminster Hall, and was greatly increased by Sir Robert's son and gprandson ; in
1700 it was purchased by Act of Parliament, and in 1706 Cotton House was sold to
the Crown for 4500Z.; but the mansion falling into decay, in I7l2 the library was re«
moved to Essex House, Strand ; and thence, in 1730, to Ashbumham House, West-
minster* Here, October 23, 1781, a destructive fire broke out, by which 111 MSS. were
lost, burnt, or entirely defaced, and 99 rendered imperfect. What remained were re*
moved into the new dormitory of Westminster School. In 1738 was bequeathed to the
collection Major Arthur Edwards's library of 2000 printed volumes; and in 1757 the
whole were transferred to the British Museum. The Cottonian collection originally
contained 958 volumes of original Charters, Royal Letters, Foreign State Correspon-
dence, Ancient Registers : it was kept in cases, upon which were the heads of the twelve
CsBsars; and the MSS. are distingidshed by the press-marks of the Cessars. Humphrey
Wanley published a catalogue of the Cottonian Library, which is minutely notit^ by
Chamberlayne, MagntB Britannia NotiHa, 1726. Above the bookcases were portraits
of the three Cottons, Judge Doddridge, Spelman, Camden, Dugdale, Lambard, Speed,
Ac An extended catalogue was printed in 1802.
Betides MSS., the Cottonian collection contained Saxon and old Engliah coins, and Boman and
Snglish antionitioa, ail now in the British Mnseom. Sir Bobert Cotton idded Speed in his JZiMory of
England, and Knollea in hia TurkUk RUtory, Sir Walter Baleigh, Selden, and Bacon drew ma^4»riars
from the Cottonian Library ; and, in our time, Lingard's and Sharon Tamers Hitloria qf England, and
nomeroos other works, have proved its treasures nnezhansted. DunxL'n, O^ LiBaiax, Canoniniiy
{See Mvsxuics.)
DsPABTiCEKT OT Pbacticai. Abt, South Kensington: a collection of works of
reference for Manufiictures and Ornamental Art, originally formed for the Schools of
Desig^. About 1600 volumes on architecture, sculpture, painted glass, general antiqui-
ties, and decoration ; prints and drawings, including Raphael's Arabesques, coloured ;
original Sketches of tiie Cathedral of Mesrina, and the Church of St. Ambrose, Milan;
and many elementary and practical works on art and ornamental design.
DocTOBS' CoMHONS (College of Advocates). {See p. 313.)
Dttlwich Collxob Libbabt. {See p. 274.)
Dtttch Chttboh, Austin Friars : for the use of fordgn Protestants and thdr clergy s
containing MSS. and Letters of Calvin, Peter Martyr, and others, foreign Reformers i
the Ten ConmiandmentB, believed to be in the handwriting of Rubens. This collectiaa
of books and MSS. was made by Maria Dubois, a pious lady, and was placed at the
west end of the charch, over the screen, in an apartment inscribed thus: — ** Eoclesiss
Londino-Belgias Bibliotheca, extructa sumptibus Marias Dubois, 1659." Additions to
the collection were made firom time to time by the Dutch Ambassadors^ the Dutch East
India Company, and the wealthy members of the congregation. Its autog^phic trea-
sures include a very interesting collection of letters crif the early eoolesiastical Re-
520 CUBI08ITIE8 OF LONDON,
ibrmen — among others, of Erasmus, Calvin, and Beza, Bacer, Pefcer Martyr ; Grindal,
Archbishop of Canterbury; Vizet; John k Lasoo, the first Minister of the Dntch
Church in London ; Bullinger, and of John Fox, the martyrologist ; likewise letters of
the principal founders of the Dutch Republic, indnding the Prince of Orange, after-
wards William I. ; Sir Philip de Mariniz, Count d'Albegonde, the Admiral of the
Dntch fleet. One collection also contains 272 ori^nal letters to Abraham Ortelioi,
geographer to Philip II. of Spain, irom the chief learned and scientific men of the age.
Here likewise are portrait*etching8 of Albert Durer, by Mmself ; Olertius Cbristopber
Plantin, printer of the polyglot lUble ; of Cardinal Ximenes, (Gerard Mercator, William
Camden, Dr. John Dee, the great Lord Burghley ; the Earls of Leicester, Sussex, and
Lincoln ; several of the English Bishops of those times, and of the Lord Mayors of
London ; also the Ten Commandments, believed to be in the handwriting of Rubena.
The library prindpally consists of early theological works in Latin, German, Dutch, and
English ; good editions of the classics ; illuminated Bibles ; Blaenw's View of the
different Continental States, in 1649, and the JSmbaety to China, 1670 — in all about
2000 volumes, and with the old fittings complete. In the conflagration at the Dutch
Church, in 1862, this fine library was fortunately saved ; and upon the restoration of
the church, the Library was added to that of the Corporation at Quildhall.
East India Cokfaky'b Libbart: printed books and tracts relating to the history
and geography of the Eastern hemisphere ; the history, commerce, and administration of
the East India Company, printed in Europe or India ; books, drawings, and prints of the
people, scenery, and antiquities of Asiatic countries ; MSS. on palm-leaves in Sanscrit*
Burmese, and other languages of the Archipelago, and Sanscrit MSS. in 3000 bound
volumes ; Chinese printed works ; Tibetan CyclopsBdia, in 300 large oblong volnmea,
printed with wooden blocks ; Arabic and Persian MSS. ; miniature copies of the Koran ;
another Koran, in old Cufic characters, written out by the Khalif Othman (d. a.d. 655),
and other volumes of the library of Tippoo Sultan ; his autograph " Register of Dreams,"
&c. Open to students recommended. When the East India House was taken down,
the Library and Museum were removed to Fife House, Whitehall. {See Musbvms.)
Ellesmebe Librabt, Bridgewater House, Green Park, contains many hundred
manuscript plays, by all the dramatists who have written for the stage from the year
1737 to the year 1824. These are the copies which were from time to time sent
officially to the Licenser of Dramatic Compositions : and in many instances they bear
his marks and remarks for regulating the performance, and contain passages omitted
not only in the representation but in the editions afterwards printed from the acting
copies. The whole collection illustrates the history of our stage during nearly a cen-
tury— cdnce it proves at once with respect to revived dramas, who was or was not the
author of the additions and alterations — a matter of doubt even within our own memory.
Geogbafhical Society (Royal), 3, Waterloo-place, Pall Mall : upwards of 4000
volumes, mostly geographical ; 160 Atlases ; more than 1000 pamphlets ; 10,000 mapa
and charts : available as a circulating library by the Fellows.
Geological Society's Libbaby, Somerset House, contains several rare and curious
treatises, &c., chiefly of the seventeenth century, and relating to the oosmogonical and
hypothetical notions about the earth and its structure, the origin and nature of minerals
and fossils, natural history, early chemistry, &c.
Gbeshah College, Basinghall-street, has a small library of modem books for the
use of the lecturers. The College does not appear to have originally possessed a
library, but to have used that of the Royal Society, the removal of which to Crane-
oourt in 1710 proved a great disadvantage to the Gresham Profisssors. (Ward's Idves,
p. 176.) {See Gbesham College, p. 274.) The books subsequentiy possessed by the
College were burnt in the Royal Exchange, Jan. 10, 1838.
Halls ot the City CoMPAiaES (The), often contain collections of early treatises
upon their arts and mysteries.
Hableiak Libbaby and MSS. {See Mttseiths : British).
Hebbew Libbaby, Duke's-plaoe, Aldgate.
LTBBABIE8. 521
The Jewi, In Beria Marka, had a valaable libraiy in their Synagogue, relating to their eeremoniala
and Talmadical worship ; but some narrow minda among them oonoefving that if they should get into
the hands of Christians, they would be disgraced by shamefhl translations, agreed among themselves to
eause them to be burnt; for which purpose they employed some of their scribes, or tephilim writers, to
examine into the correctness of the copies; and receiving a report agreeable to their wishes, they had
them conveyed to Mile End, where they were all destroyed in a kiln ; for it is contrary to their maxim
ever to make waste paper of the saored language.— U. Lemoine: &es<2««ian's MagasiiUt July, 1790.
' Heralds' College (College of Arms), we p. 275. Here ia a curions collection of
works on Heraldry, Arms, C^emonies, Coronations, Marriages, Fnnerals, ChriBtenings>
and Visitations ; an ancient Nennius on vellum, and Robert of Qloucester's Chronicle.
HoBTiOTTLTFBAL SociETT, South Kensington : the largest collection of horticoltural
works in the kingdom, and an assemblage of drawings of frnits and ornamental plants.
Hospitals, the several, possess medical libraries.
Ikcobfosatbd Law Socdsty, Chancery-lane: the law and literatnre conneeted
with the profession; Votes, Reports, Acts, Journals, and other proceeding's of Parlia-
ment; County and Local Histories: topographica], genealogical, and antiquarian
works, Ac
Inns op Cottbt. — The Imnss and Middle Temple each possesses a good Hbrary,
with valuable MSS. The Inkeb Temple MSS., principally collected by William
Petyt, Esq., Keeper of the Tower Records, were presented by his trustees in 1707 :
they exceed 400 MSS., parliamentary statutes and common law, eodesiastiqd records,
year-books, Hoveden, Higden, and other English historians, letters, and papers, with
signs-manual of kings and queens of England. Middle Temple Librabt, the
new building for which is described at p. 463, dates from 1641, when its founder,
Bobett Ashley, a collateral ancestor of the Earl of Shaftesbury, left his whole
library, together with a large sum of money, to the Inn where he had received
his legal education. His example was followed by other distinguished Templars
of the time, and thus the Library was first established. The Irish Lord Chief
Justice Pepys was a large benefactor to it. Ashmole, Bartholomew Shower, and
William Petyt were among its most liberal supporters. Lord Stowell also left a
handsome legacy to it, which was expended chiefiy on the purchase of books on
civil, canon, and international law. During the latter part of the last century many
volumes, in some way or other, disappeared from the shelves altogether, among them
some of the most scarce and valuable tracts, and 30 folio volumes of Votes of Parlia-
ment. In civil, canon, and international law books, and in the Eoglish, Scotch, Irish,
and American reports it is said to be very strong, and there is also a large collection
of books on divinity and ecclesiastical history. There is likewise an ample collection
of proclamations and other offidal documents relating to the times of the Civil War.
Lincoln's Inn Library is described at p. 468; also in Spilsbury's Lincoln's Inn and
its Library; Gbay's Ink^ law and history p. 469. Most of the Inns OV Chakcbby
have also libraries.
Kino's College, Somerset House, has large medical and general libraries; including
the Marsdcn Library, 3000 volumes on Philosophy and Oriental literature, presented
in 1835 by William Marsden, F.R.S. The Medical Library contains about 2000 volumes.
Lambeth Palace Libbabt. (See p. 501.)
LiNNEAN SociETT, Burlingtou House : the Library and Herbarium of LinnsBus,
purchased by Sir James Smith for 10002. In the tSodety's honse, 32, Soho-square, Sir
Joseph Banks collected his valuable library of works on Natural History, now in the
Banksian department of the British Museum : the catalogue fills five octavo volumes,
and is very rare.
LiTEBARY Fund (Royal), 4v Adelphi-terrace : this is a collection of books,
mostly modem, and presents. Here is also the MS. of Thorkksson's Icelandic
version of Faradise Lost, sent to the Institution by himself, through the Danish
Government Here is the dagger with which Colonel Blood stabbed Edwards, keeper
of the Kegalia in the Tower of London, when Blood attempted to carry off the crown;
also a da^^er taken from Parrot, Blood's accomplice. Both weapons are of French
mannfiustnre, and very curious : they were beoueathed to the Institution by Mr. Thomas
622 OUBZOSiriES OF LONDON.
Newton, wbo believing himself to be the last dewendant of Sir Isaac NewtoD, left his
entire estate to the Literary Fnnd.
hOKDGS IvBTTTUTiOK, ilnsbury-drcus, oommenced in 1806 with part of the librarj
of the first Marqus of Lansdowne, contains about 80,000 volumes : rich in English
Antiqcuties and Topography; scarce collection of Foreign Laws; several thousand
Tracts; Bibliography, including rare editions from the early presses of Germany, Italy,
and France ; and fine specimens of the printing of the celebrated Antoine Yenrd, the
Wechels, the Stephani, Claude Morel, Christopher Flantin, Johann Froben, Guarinu%
Hieronymus Commelin, Henricus Petrus, the Aldi, the Sonom, (Gabriel Giolito, and the
Giunti ; with some from the English printers, Julian Notary, Peter Treveris, Richaid
Qrafton, Thomas Marshe, John Cawood, &c Professor Person, William Upoott^ and
Bichard Thomson, author of the Chromeles of London Bridge, 1827, were soocessivdy
librarians. This collection is valued at 40,0002.
LoKDOV LiBBABY, 12, St. James's-squarc (the house tenanted by Lord Amherst
when Commander-in-chi^, was established in May, 1841, at 67, Pall Mall, and removed
to St. JamesVsquare in 1844. It is upon the subscription and lending plan, and the
colleetion admirable.
Mathsmatioal Sooibtt, Crispin-street, Spitalfields, established in 1717, had a
library, of which a catalogue was published in 1821 ; but the books and archives were
removed to Somerset House in 1845, when the Mathematical Society merged into the
Boyal Astronomical Sodety. (See p. 616.)
MscHAiacs' Institute, Southampton-buildings, Holbom, founded by the philan-
thropic Dr. Birkbeck in 1828 ; who also, in 1825, advanced a large sum for building
the fine theatre of the Institution. The library has 6000 vols.
MsDiOAL AND ChibuboicaIi Sooibtt, 63, Bemers-street, Oxford-street: about
20,000 volumes on Medicine, Surgery, &c.
MedicaIi SociETr op Loin>oir, S2a, Oeorge-street, Hanover-square, has a collection
of books, including the library bequeathed by Dr. Lettsom, with a house in Bolt-court,
Fleet-street. {See p. 350.)
Mebchaitt-TatiiOBs' Sohool Libbabt, Suffolk-lane, Cannon-street^ contains a fiur
collection of Hebrew and other Oriental works of reference ; some good copies of the
Fathers ; nearly all the standard clBssical and other Lexicons ; and the best writers in
English Theology. The Merchant-Taylors' Company devote thirty guineas per annum
to the increase and keeping up of this library ; and frequent presents have been made
to it by Members of the Court.
MiOBOfloOPiCAL SoGTBTT, 21, Begent-street : a library of standard works on the
Microscope; the perfection of which valuable instrument is the object of the
Institulion.
MusEUK ov Pbactical Geoloot, Jermyn-street, St James's : rare edition of the
works of Aldrovandus; collection of alchemical treatises and histories; Kircfaer^s
works ; olden Topography, Voyages and Travels ; collection of Surveys, &c.
New College, St. John's Wood (eee p. 277), possesses a library of 20,000 volumes,
including the theological collections from Coward, Homerton, and Highbury Colleges;
and is otherwise rich in works for the Congregational denomination.
Parltaitbkt (Houses of) possess large and valuable libraries.
Patent Seal Oftiob Libbabt. — ^This free scientific library consists of more than
25,000 volumes, well selected, and of a class character, and tiiere is a convenientiy-
arranged catalogue. In days of old the inventive fiiculty of man was taxed and made
profit of to Chancellors and Chaff-waxers. The records of patents were lodged in the
Bolls Chapel and other placesi, and the expense of inquiry was great ; the specifications
of patents were not printed, and the cost of obtaining even a spedfication amounted to
sums which varied from twelve guineas up to 500/.; the legal expenses of an old patent
amounted to 8502. and upwards. Now, all the specifications of patents have been
printed, and they can be had at the rate of from 2d, to \Qd, each copy. Of the patents
LIBEAEIE8. 523
undc? the old patent law, the most andent is the following : *< aj>. 1617. — No. 1.
Bngraving and printing maps, plans, &c. ; Bathbnrne & Burg^ patent." This is the
first patent whidi has been printed. No. 2 patent is by Nicholas HiUiard, for draw-
ing", engravings and printing portraits of th^ royal &mUy. No. 3 is for constructing
locks, sloices, bridges, cranes, and obtaining or applying water-power. No. 4 (1617}—
Protecting arms and armoor from mst. No. &--Mannfiictnre of swords and rapier
blades, &c No. 6— Flatent to David Bamsey and Thomas Wildgoose. Bamsey seems
to have been one of the pages of the bedchamber. This invention is described aa
follows :—
" Kewe, spte. or oomodins formes or kind« of enrinM or Instmments^ and other profitable Invendons,
waves, and means for l^e good of oar commonwealth, aa well to plough grounde wUkoui hone or oxnu
and enrich and make bettsr and more fertile, as well barren bent, salt, and sea aand. as in land km,
upper land grounde within oar kingdoms of England and Ireland, and oar domynon or Wales ; as also
to ravM watenfrom onm Ioim j>2aee io lAgk plaee»,for weU waterhu <^ eU^«$, towns, noblemen's and
gentlemen's honsea, and other places now much wanting water, with lesae cnarges than ever hath been
heretofore, and to make boat$/or ike ewrriage vf hwfktne and pa»§ongen rva ttpoa ih§ wUer^ a§ iw^ im
ealm^ amd more mtfe t» sforou^ (Aon hoaUfuXIrW^Ud •» greai fBoget^'
The inventions for the core of smoke are nmnerons, and of several dates, notwith-
standing many of her Majesty's subjects are as smoke-dried as formerly. Mops, egg-
boilers, self-acyosting gloves, frying-pans, and other sndi manu&ctores have been
patented. There are also beverages and such like made patent; one of these is called
*' A new beverage— Gibson's Finerium ; or, Afirated Sarsaparilla.''
Prom 1617 to 1862, when the diange in the law took place, we find, in this
library, the record of 1^859 patents : of these the payment for extension to foarteen
years only seems to apply to 7529. Since the new law has made patents more easy of
obtainment, the specifications were more nnmeroos than those which in the Chaff-
wax days were recorded dming more than two centuries. On an average about
9000 petitions for provisional protection are presented in each year : only 1960
inventions reach the patented state ; and but 660 patents pay the stamp duly re-
quired at the exjnration of each year : probably not more than 100 of these 660
patents will pay l^e adiUtional stamp duty required at the end of the seventh year.
Among the printed records, we see the dawnings of steam-power, the electric tele-
graph, and gas-lighting. In 1662, 262 patents were taken out fbr fire-anna. One
Pudde puts his specification in rhyme, and says :—
" Deftnding King George, 7oar country and laws.
In defencBng yourself and conntry's canse.
For bridges, trenches, lines and passesi
Ships, boats, honsea, and other places.'*
St. Paul's Cathxdsal Library, in the gallery over the southern aisle, was col-
lected by Bishop Compton : 7000 volumes, with MSS. relating to Old St. Paul's.
{See p. 111.)
St. Paitl's School, St. Paul's Churchyard, formerly contained the library of Dean
Colet, the founder ; but the books were destroyed in the Great Fire, with Mr. Crom-
lehome^ the upper Master's curious stock, the best private ooUection then about
London : he was a great lover of his booki^ and the loss of them hastened the loss of
bia life. They have been supplied by lexicons, dictionaries, and grammars, in Hebrew,
Chaldee, Greek, and Latin, for the use <^ the upper scholars. Here is the reputed
copy of VegeHue de re MUitari, which Marlborough used when a pupil at the schooL
The original statutes of this schod were accidentally picked up at a bookseller's by the
late Mr. Hamper, of Birmingham, and by him presented to the British Museum.
Phaskachttical Socdety (The), 17, Bloomsbury-square^ has a library, museum,
and laboratory.
BoTAL AoADEHY 07 Abts, Trafalgar-squarc : all the best works on art ; besides
prints, including a valuable collection of engrarings from the Italian School, fh>m the
earliest period, collected by George Cumberland. The former library room, at
Somerset-house, has a ceiling painted by Angelica Kauffmann, Sir Joshua Reynolds^
and other Academicians. l%e office of Librarian is usually given to an Academicians
Wilson, Fuseli, and Stothard were librarians.
524 CURIOSITIES OF LONDON.
BoTAL AcADBirr or Music, 4, Tenierden-«treet, Hutover-equare, has a libnry of
muric, practical, for the use of the students. Here is preserved the original deed,
dated 1719, signed by several noblemen, sabecribers to a Boyal Academj of Mnsic,
from which was formed the first Italian Opera in England.
BoTAL Ikbtttutb ot Abohitxot8, Condoit-street, Hanover-sqnare : aboat 2000
volumes on Architecture and its attendant sciences; including the Prussian Qovemment's
educational works ; that by Lepsius on Egypt; and large and expensive books of curiosity
and reference, such as Piranen and Canina. The M8S. and original Drawings comprise
Stuarfs commencement of a Dictionary of Architecture; Weennick's Lives qf Flemitk
Archtteeti ; and about 2000 drawings of antiquities, modem edifices, and deagns by
English, French, Italian, and German architects of the seventeenth, eighteenth, and
nineteenth centuries.
RoTAL iKSTiTtTTiOK, Albemarle-street : about 27,000 volumes^ indadin^ the
curious library of Astle, the antiquary; topographical, antiquarian, claariral, and
scientific works ; parliamentary history, &c
BoTAL LiBBABT (The) St James's Palace, was originally founded by Edward VI,
who appointed Bartholomew Trahnon, keeper, with a salary of 202. : the first books
mostly collected by Leland, at the Dissolution; and here were deposited his ** Collec-
tions," presented by him to King Edward, but subsequently dispersed. James I.
refounded the library, and added the collection of the learned Isaac Casaubon. He
entire collection was presented to the British Museum, in 1757, by Qeorge IF.; and
to the gift was annexed the privilege, which the Royal Library had acquired in the
reign of Queen Anne, of being supplied with a copy of every new publication entered
at Stationers' Hall. In St. James's Palace was also the Qvm»'« lAbrary, built by Kent,
for Caroline, consort of Gkorge II., in the Stable-yard : here were two fine marble
busts of George II. and Queen Caroline, by Bysbraeck, both now in Windsor Castle^
BoTAL SocnriT, Burlington House : the Library, in the upper floor, is extremely rich
in the best editions of scientific treatises, beddcs rare and valuable theological historical
works, which are lent to Fellows of the Society. The catalogue of books, MSS., and
letters, 1841, fills two volumes 8vo. ("The collection is very poor in some depart-
ments."— A. De Morgan.) The Society also possess upwards of 5000 maps, charts,
engravings, drawings, &c. The library of Arundel House, presented to the Royal
Society by Mr. Henry Howard, 1666-7, forms the nucleus of the present collection,
each book being inscribed Ex dono Senriei Howard, Norfolcientit : " it consists of
8287 printed books, chiefly first editions, soon after the invention of printing ; and
Hebrew, Greek, Latin, Turkish, and other rare MSS., 544 volumes." (MaUland.) In
1830, the Arundel MSS. (excepting the Hebrew and Oriental) were sold to the British
Museum for 3559^, which was expended in purchasing scientific works for the Boyal
Society's Library, now exceeding 42,000 volumes.
Here are Chancer's Cant^rburie Taltt. fol. 1480 (Cazton) ; Copemicos's SUtonf qf Agtromomy, first
edition : orudnal MS. of the PniunpJiL written by Sir Iimc Newton ; and documenta in the Ommercisu
SpUtolufum (invention of Floiiona) ; MS. of Aubrey'a Natural Sittory qf WiUMre.
BoYAii SociXTT OP LiTBBATTTBB, 4^ St. Martiu's-place, Trafalgar-square : a valuable
library, greatly enriched by the lexicographical and antiquarian works presented by the
Bev. H. J. Todd, editor and enlarger of Johnson's Dictionary ; also papers by the
most eminent writers on history, philology, poetry, philosophy, and the arts. The
Society's House was built by the leading members upon Crown land granted in 18i26
by George IV., who contributed 1100 guineas a year.
It is true that Georfre IV. waa committed to this large annual aubacrliytion by a miaoonoeptloii of Dr.
Burgess, Bishop or Salisbury ; the king intending a donation of 1000 guineas, and an annual aubsvrip-
tion of 100 guineas : his Majesty not only cheerfmly acquiesced, but amused himself with the incident
Bfssell Ihstittttion, Great Coram-street. This Institution was founded in the
year 1808, and amongst its earliest members were Sir Samuel Bomilly, Francia Homer,
Mason Good, Henry Hallam, and Lord Abinger. The number of volumes exceeds
16,000. Here is Haydon's grand heroic picture of " Xenophon and the Ten Thousaiid."
LIBRARIES. 525
Ifc was disposed of by lotrtery for 800 guineas, in 1836, when it was won by John, Doke
of Bedford, and presented by him to the Ipstitution.
SiOK CoLLBOB LiBBABY, London Wall (see p. 279), though founded fbr the clergy
of the C^ty and sabnrbs of London, is now accessible daily upon the same conditions as
tbe Biituh Mnseum Library. The Sion collection was increased by the bequest of the
library of Dr. William Harris : here are many carious black-letter theological works
and scarce tracts of the Puritan times.
Sib Johk Soanb'b Mubeum : Architecture and the Fine Arts generally, by English,
Italian, French, German, and Rusnan artists and literati; original Drawings and MSS.
by Thorpe, Jones, Yanbrugh, Wren, and Chambers; Pennant's London, illustrated
with 2000 drawings, prints, &c (Fauntleroy's); Tasso's MS. Gertualemme Liberata;
first, aeoond, third, and fourth folio editions of Shakspeare, from J. P. KemUe's library.
ifiee MTiSEincB : Sir John Soane's.)
Socixnss, LiTBBABY AKD SoiBNTivio, in Islington, Maiylebone, Southwark, and
Westminster, contain modem libraries.
SocLBTY OF Abts, John-strect, Adelphi, has a collection of technical works, which
is very far from complete, but was intended to contain copies of all special treatises on
tbe arts and manu&ctures. The most interesting and important part of the library is
the MS. correspondence and joumal<books. Amongst the r^ected communications and
oondemned inventions are many since the subjects of patents; and these yolumes are
the most remarkable registers in the country of the inventions of the last century.
Tbe books are lent to the members.
Statisticai. Sooibtt, 12, St. James's-square : a large collection of Statistical
Returns, imperfectty catalogued.
Tsirisoiir'B Libbaby, in Castie-street, St. Martin's-lane, immediately behind the
National Gallery, was bmLt by Sir Christopher Wren. It is "a noble structure,
extremely well contrived for the placing df the books and lighten and furnished
with tbe best modem books in most faculties : the best of its kind in England."^
{S, Lemoine, 1790.) The Library, about 4000 volumes, was formed by the iLrchbishop
during tberdgns of Kings Charles II., James II., William III., and Queen Anne, and
was established by Tenison in 1685, then Rector of St. Martin's parish. It contained
all the rare books formerly belonging to Father Le Courayer, canon and chief librarian of
St. Genevieve, and author of the celebrated DieeertaHon on the Validity of the Ordi-
natione and the Suceestion of the Bithope of the Church of JSngland. Some years
before bis death the Canon gave all his rare and valuable books to Archbishop Tenison's
Library. The entire collection was dispersed by auction by order of the Charity Com-
missioners, in June, 1864, when some of the MSS. were disposed of as follows : —
The Original Note>6ook of Fmelt Baoon, entirely In bis aatograph and onpobllshed, fbU of carious
■ad interesting detatle Uliutratlve of the perional Ustoty of this great reformer of philoeophy, 882. The
Holy Bible, translated bj Wickliffl^ a manoacrlpt of the firarteenth oentnxy, npon vellam, comprlaing
a portion of tbe Old Testament Scriptures, VSOL YenantU Honorii Clementianl Fortonati, Presbyten
Italic!, Yersarinm et Prosalcn Expositiones Orationls Dominies et Sjrmboli, a fine manoseript, See. X.
or XI., 782. Higden't Po^dbroiriMii, tranalated into English >y John de Trerisa, being tne version
used by Caxton, a noble manoscript, wanting a few leaves. It is preceded by two treatises, one
entitle! Dialoaut itOm' MUUem H CUriemmt and the other, The DqfntM, Ufort As Popt at Borne, by
Richard FIts-Balph, ArehUsbop of Armagh, which latter has not been printed, 189^ Historical Mi^
eellaniesy containing three pages in the aatograph of Francis Bacon, 90L lOt. A charming ▼olome^
entitled, AU the Xm/« SkoH Foe$it tkat are not Printed, with nnmeroos alterations In the bandwritingB
of King James the First and Prince Charles (afterwards Charles the First), 881. 6«. Keating's Three
Bhqfle of Death, composed in the year 1631, and Hieiorg. of Ireland, in the Irish character, 20k A
chronicle^ called Ptoree PBetoriaruwt, by that eminent ii.'ngUsh historian Matthew of Westminster, a
manuscript of the foorteenth century, 63X. Mieeale $eeundum Ueum Sarum, a fine manuscript of tlis
fifteenth century, with musical notes, 701. PrudentU Liber de Pu^nd Fttiorwai et Virtmtmm, eum Olonie,
a wonderflil manuscript of tbe tenth centurr, with eightr illastrations of a highlr spirited character,
executed in outline, and exhibiting great artistic skill in the powerful treatment of the Tarioas sutijeota,
273/. PeaUerUtmi, eum PreetbtUt a moet beautiful manuscript of the thirteenth centunr, by an Engitah
artist, with many thousand cwital letters, Tsrious figures, derices and grotesque sutijects, eiecated in
ffold and colours in the richest manner, 20(M. A curious collection of Theological Treatises in English,
one of them being a discourse anlnst miracle plays, the most singular reUc of tiie kind known to exis^
and said to be tbe only medl»yai English treatise on such plays yet discoTered, 35/. Divers Treatises In
Si^lish, by Dr. Wiokliffit, 37/. lOs.
The Qrammar-sehool, inclnding the Library-rooma^ with St. Martin's WorkhooM^
526 OUBIOSTTIES OF LONDON.
htLYe been pmehaaedof the pariah of St. Martm'a for 86^0002.; the aite hang required
ftr the enlargement of the National Gallery.
TowiB OF London. — ^At the oommenoement of the last centnTj, according to
Bagford and Oldys, the Records in the Wakefield Tower were very coiiooBy and were
then " modeled and digested, and repoaited in cases." In the White Tower were a
vast number of records relating to monasteries, &c., several letters of kings, princes,
dnke% &c^ from several parts <^ the world, as Tartary, Barbary, Spain, France;, Italj,
Ac., to oar kings in Enghmd. [See Rxookds, Public.)
TJnitxd Sebyicb iNBTnxmoK, Middle Scotland-yard, Whitehall: an admirable
Bhrary of reference (10,000 volmnes), espedally valuable in Its practical otQity to
soldiers ; pamphlets on the services ; engineering papers : rich in old Italian militaiy
literature i a French plan of fortification in MS., corrected in the handwriting of
Tauhan.
UinysBBlTT CoLXJEGB, Gowcr-street : about 48,000 volumes, and 8000 pamphleis,
general, legal, and medical ; Including the Chinese library, 10,000 volumes^ left by Dr.
Morrison ; the Ricardo library (political economy), left by David Bicardo ; and a large
collection bequeathed by Dr. Holmes of Manchester. 'Die marble statue of Ijocke in
the principal library, is by Sir Richard Westmaoott, RJL (See^ 280.)
WEsnoKBTBB Abbst : (Chapter House).— The Chapter House was onoe the monks'
* parlour," or " parleying" place, but made a public library by Lord Keeper WiUiams,
whilst Dean of Westminster. The books were burnt in 1664> and but one MS. saved
out of 820 : they are catalogued in the Harleian MSS. Chamberlayne (1726) de-
scribes "a fiur pubUck library, free for all strangers in term tame:" about 11,000
volumes. Among the treasures here are collections of mudc and dasraos and earlj
Bibles; an early vellum book, printed at Oxford, 1482 ; ceremonials of consecrations ;
an JEdUio Prineepe of Flato; St. Ambrose on vellum; the JPupilla OcuU^ and
litUngton's Missal, 1362.
Domesday Book, Rymer's Foidera, and other andent records, kept here, have
been transferred to the Rolls Office, Chancery-lane. The Chapter House formerly con-
tained the most valuable muniments, of which, in 1807, an inventory was made ; three
copies only were taken ; one, with coloured drawing^ of the building, is in the British
Museum. Addit. MS. 8977. The Parliament Rolls were^ at the above date, in an old
stone tower, in the Old Palace Yard, Westminster ; and the Papers of State from tiie
beginning of Henry VIII. were kept in Holbein's Cockpit Oate.
In the room called the Museum, at Westminster School, is a collection of books
given by Dr. Busby for the use of the scholars.
Willujcb'b Libbaby, "t^e Dissenters' Library," Redcroas-street^ Cripplegate:
20,000 volumes, collected by the Rev. Dr. Daniel Williams, the Nonconformist, and Dr.
Bates; and bequeathed by the former, with provisions for a bulling; opened 1729.
This library has been increased by g^ifts, and by a small income from estates left by Dr.
Williams : it is rich in controverdal divinity, is open to the public by a truatee^s order,
and books are allowed to be taken out. Here are some manuscripts of the early
history of the Reformation. Dr. Williams purchased most of the books of the heirs dt
one Baker, of Highgate : by negligence many of the MSS. were burnt, including tbe
pompous and rare book of the Rules and Ceremonies of the Coronaiion of the Kit^gs of
England, (ff. Lemoine, 1790.) Also, The SaUshuty Liturgy, finely illuminated ; I%e
Hours of the Virgin, Paris, 1498; Illuminated Bible; miniature copy of the Hc»d of
Christ, from a painting in the Vatican ; the glass baptismal basin of Queen ElizabetL
Here was a very interesting collection of portraits of Dissenting Ministers.
Before the system of the registration of births, marriages, and deaths had been
established at Somerset House, three denominations of Protestant dissenters, forming a
congregation within twelve miles of London, established a reg^try of Inrths here^ whidi
was continued from 1742 to 1837, when these records were placed in the care of the
Registrar-General. In these books are entered nearly 60,000 births^ attested by
witnesses. The library buildings were taken down in 1864, for the extension of the
Metropolitan Railway ; and the collection has been removed to Lincoln's-inn-fields.
LINC0LIP8 INN FJOSLBB. 627
Zoological Sogiett, 11, Hanover-square : Trazuacfcioiis of learned aocietiee* and
scientific zoological works of modem date.
«
CiBCULATiird LiBBABiBS date from 1740, when one Wright» at No. 132, Strand,
established the first. Dr. Franklin writes in 1725, lodging in Little Britain: "Cir-
culating Hbrariea were not then in nse.'' Among Wright's earliest rivals were the
Nobles, in Holbom and St. Martin's-oonrt; Samnel Bathoe, Strand; and Thomas
Lowndes, Meet-street. Another early Circulating Library was in Crane-court, Fleet-
ttreet, where the Society of Arts met in 1754 and 1755. In 1770 there were but four
Circulating Libraries in the metropolis.
Fbes TjThrakteb : the first established in Marylebone, 1853.
Mudib'b Selbgt Libbasy, New Oxford-street, has about 120,000 volumes actually
in circulation, in addition to a reserve of nearly a million volumes. Bather more than
half of these are works of History, Biography, Beligion, Philosophy, and Travels ; the
rest bang works of McUon, chiefly of the higher and standard dass. The Library
was formed into a Company, in 1864, under Mr. Mudie's superintendence, and wil^
increasing success ; number o( subscribers, nearly 20,000. The books are kept in a large
and handsome Hall, decorated with Ionic columns ; light iron galleries give access to
the upper shelves, and an iron staircase descends to vaults, filled with solid stacks of
books ; and light trucks circulate laden with books. More than 1000 exchanges are
usoally effected in one day. Of the more popular works thousands of copies are
provided : of Livingstone's Travels in Africa, 3250 copies were in circulation at one
time ; of JB^tajft <ind SevietM, 2000 copies ; and of the Q^€^r^erhf Eevievo, in which
the BttayM were answered, 1000 copies ; M'Clintock's Voyage in Search of Franklin,
8000 volumes ; of some novels, 8000. The books are distributed throughout the three
Kingdoms to private individual^, country book-clubs, and literary societies. The sys-
tem was commenced by Mr. Mudie in 1842, with the object of providing a supply of
works of a higher class than were usually to be found in circulating libraries. This
is altogether a liberal enterprise, the benefits of which have been rightly appredated
by the reading public.
LINCOLN* 8 INN FIELDS.
THIS fine square west of Lincoln's Inn dates from 1618, when "the grounds wera
much planted round with dwellings and lodgings of noblemen and gentlemen of
quality, but at the same time were d^ormed by cottages and mean buildings — en-
croachments on the fields, and nuisances to the ndghbourhood." To reform these
grievances, a commission was appointed by the Crown " to plant and reduce to unifor-
mity Lincoln's Inn Fields, as it shall be drawn by way of map or ground-plot by Inigo
Jones." A view, painted in oil, of Inigo's plan is preserved at Wilton House : it is
taken from the south, and the principal feature is Lmdsey House, on the centre of the
west side (see p. 448). It still remains, but has lost the handsome vases which
originally surmounted the open balustrade at the top. {Life of Inigo Jones, by Peter
Cunningham. Shakspeare Society, 1848.)
The proportions of the square were long stated to be those of the Great Pyramid of
^KTP^ i which, says Walpole, " would have been admired in those ages when the keep
of Kenilworth Castle was erected in the fi>rm of a horse-fetter, and the Esciirial in the
shape of St. Lawrence's gridiron." But the fiust is otherwise ; the base of the Great
Pyramid measures 764 feet on each side, whereas Lincoln's-inn-fields, although 821
feet on one rid^ is only 625 feet 6 inches on the other, and the area of the I^anUd
is greater by many thousand square feet. (Colonel Howard Vyse, On the Pyramids^
The west side only was completed by Inigo Jones.
Lincoln's Inn Fields have been used as a place of execution. Here, September 20
uid 21, 1586, Babtngton and his accomplices were "hanged, bowelled, and quartered,
ou a stage or scaffold of timber strongly made for that purpose, even in the place where
^bey used to meet and to oonferre of their traitorous purposes.'' And here in the
luiddle of the square, July 21, 1688, was beheaded the patriotic William Lord
linnelU
528 CURIOSITIES OF LONDON.
Burnet thiu dMcribM tha nd loene : "Ttlloteon and I went with him in the coaeh to the place of
exeootion. Some of the crowd that ftUed the etreete wept, while others insulted. He wbs sin^nw
psalms a great part of the waj, and said he hoped to ring better soon. As he observed the greatcrowd
of people sU the way. he said to ns, ' I hope I shall qoi^y see a much better assembly.* When be
earoe to the scaffold, he walked abont it four or five times. Then be tamed to the shexifb sad deliTered
his paper. ... He prayed >y himself; then TiUotson prayed with him. After that he prayed ania by
himself, and then undressed himself, and laid his heaa on the block without the least duaig« oi ooon-
tenance^ and it was out off at two strokes."
The Fields were long the resort of troopB of idle and vicionB vagrants: smch were
** Linooln's-inn-fields Mampers;" and "Scarecrow, the beggar in LincolnVinn-fieldsa
who disabled himself in his right leg, and asks alms all day, to get himself a warm
mpper and a trull at night." (SpeettUor, No. 6.) Boys gambled for farthings and
oranges ; and a favoorite game here was " the Wheel of Fortune," played with a move-
able hand pointing to a circle of figures, such as we remember in Moorfields^ the
prizes being gingerbread-nuts the size of iartlungs. Oay, in his TSrhia, cautions the
pedestrian f—
"Where Lincoln Inn's wide space is rail'd around.
Cross not with venf rous step ; there oft is found
The lurking thief, who, while the daylight shone.
Made the walls edu> with his begging tone :
That wretch, which late compasrion moved, shall wound
Thy bleeding head, and f^ thee to the ground."
Lincoln's-intt'flelds RtMert were wretches wlio assumed the characters of maimed soldiers, and
begged fhnn the claims of Nasebv, EdgehiU, Newbury, and Marston Moor; tiieir prey was people of
flwhion, whose coaches they attacked, and if reftised relief, tbey told their owners, "^Tis a sad thing
that an old crippled cavalier should be suffered to beg for a maintenance, and a young caTalier, that
never heard the whistle of a bullet, should ride in his coach." '
The Fields were indosed with iron railing after 1735, in consequence of Sir Joseph
Jekyll, then Master of the Rolls, being ridden over; "before which time the
Square was a receptacle for rude fellows to air hordes, and many robberies were
committed in it." (Gentleman's MtM^azine, August, 1773.) But Ireland states that
Jekyll was attacked and thrown down by the mob, in consequence of his iiid in the
passing of the Act of Parliament to raise the price of gin. In the Fields was often
set up, until its final abolition, the Pillory, handy for the rabble of Clare Market. At
the north-west angle of the indosure is a picturesque Gothic drinking fbunUdii. On
the north side are Sir John Soane's Museum and the Inns of Court Hotel ; soutb. the
College of Surgeons (see p. 279); east, linooln's-inn New Hall (see p. 466); west,
through Inigo Jones's archway, in Duke-street, is the Sardinian Roman Oitholic Chapel
(see p. 232) ; opposite which, over an Italian warehouse, lodged Dr. Franklin, when a
compositor in Watts's printing office.
At Ko. 12, Duke-street, in 1846, was completed by Mr. Smith, a magnificent Silver Fountain, oi
extraordinary magnitude and exquisite workmanship, as a present from the East India Company to
If ohamroed All. Pasha of Egypt. This fountain is upwards of ten feet in height, and omtaius 10.000
ounces (7| cwt.) of silver. It consists of a massive and enriched pedestal, whence springs a shaft, sup-
porting a tier of three basins ; and at each angle of the pedestal are a laige vase of flowers, and jrroo|»
of fruit at the base. The likeness of beast, bird, or fish is scrupulously avoided throughout the orna-
ments, in deference to Mahomedan scruples. The style of ornament is that of Louis Quatofrce; and the
base bears an inscription in English, Turkish, Arabic, and Latin. This fountain cost 70002. ; it oot-n-
pied more than seven months in the actual manufiujture; and is, we believe, the largest silver vroik; ever
executed in England.
Cheat and Little Tumetile are named from the turning stiles which, two centuries
nnce, stood at their ends next Lincoln's-inn-fields, to prevent the straying of cattle
therefrom; and Oate-etreet, north-west, has a similar origin. Sir Edwin Sandys's
curious JSuroptB Speculum, 4to, 1637, was " sold hy Qeorge Hutton, at the Ihirnin^
Stile in Holbome." The English translation of Bishop Peter Camus's Admirable
Events, 4to, 1639, was also " sold in Holhome, in Turnstile Lane** In 1685 was
huilt New Turnstile,
Tumstile-alley, leading to Holbom, was first designed as a change for selling Welsh
friezes, flannels, &c. Here Cartwright, the hookseller, kept shop : he was an excellent
player, and bequeathed his plays and pictures to Dulwich College.
On the north side of the Fields is Whetstone^ s Park, a row of tenements named |
after William Whetstone, a vestryman of the parish of St. Qiles's-in-the-Fields in ths
time of Charles I. and the Protectorate. It was long a place of ill repute, and wai'
attacked by the London apprentices in 1682. Since 1708, however, it has chiefiyj
oonsisted of stables. (Hatton's London, p. 88.)
LITEBAET FUND {THE ROYAL). 52d
" And makes a brothel of a palace.
Where harlots plj, as many tell us.
Like brimstones m a Whetstone alehouse."— Btti2«r.
The vile place and its looee characters also occur in the pUya of Shadwell and
Dryden, and in Ned Ward's London Spy,
The concentration of the Law Courts in Lincoln's Inn Fields was once proposed; and in 1841 Mr.
Barnr designed a large ballding, of Grecian character, containing a Oreat Hail (nearly equal to the area
of Westminster Hall), surrounded by 12 courts; the whole occupying one-third of the area within the
rails, to be belted with plantations. Funds were wanting, and tne blocking up of the open space was
objected to: persons had considered this area as their ** country walk," and that *' they had been in ikt
eomUry when they had been round Lincoln's Inn Fields." (Bvidenee btfore FarUammii,)
LITEBAMT FUND {THE BOTAL\
ADMINISTERS assistance to authors of published works of approved Hterary
merit, and to authors of important contributions to periodical literature who may
be in distressed circumstances; such assistance being extended, at the death of an
author, to his widow and children. Of this institution it has been well sud :
"With equal promptitude aud delicacy, its committee are ever ready to administer to the necessi-
ties of the uufortunate scholar, who can satisfy them that his misery is not the just punishment of
immoral habits. Some of the brightest names in contemporary literature have l>een beholden to the
bounty of this Institution, and in numerous instances its interference has shielded friendless merit from
utter ruin."— Qficaierlg Beviev.
The Society was estabUshed by subscription, in 1790, by Mr. David Williams, who
has detailed its objects in a work entitled The Claims of Literature, It was first pro-
posed by Williams in 1773, to a dub which met at the Prince of Walet^s Tavern,
Conduit-street, Hanover-square ; Dr. Franklin presided, but discourag^ed WilliRms by
observing, " the event will require so much time, perseverance, and patience, that the
anvil may wear out the hammer." The first anniversary dinner was held in 1793 : in
1794 an ode was recited ; and this practice was continued until 1830. Among the
writers of these odes were Captain Morris, Mr. Fitzgerald, Mr. Disraeli, Mr. George
Dyer, Mr. Boscawen, the Bev. Henry Kett, the Rev. Dr. Charles Symmons, the Rev.
George Crabbe, the Rev. Thomas Maurice, Mr. Henry Neele, and Mr. Allan Cunnins^-
bam. The first patron of the Fund, the Prince Regent, contributed 6455/. ; the
Dukes of Kent, Sussex, York, and Cambridge presided at its dinners ; Prince Albert
presided in 1842, and the Prince of Wales in 1864. In the Society's armorial bear-
ings are the imperial crown and the Prince of Wales's plume. The first house of the
Fond was 86, Gerard-street, Soho, where WiUiams died in 1816 : he was buried in
St. Anne's Church, and his gravestone bears, ** David Williams, Esq., aged setentt-
EIOUT TBAB8, FOUNDER OF THE LiTEBABT FtTiO)." Tct Canning, in political spite,
once classed Williams amongst " creeping creatures, venomous and low !" The Fund
^as incorporated 1818 : the average annual number of authors relieved during the
last ten years has been 52, classified under the heads of History and Biography;
Science and Art; Periodical Literature; Topography and Travels; Classical Literature
and Education ; Poetry ; Essays and Tales ; Drama ; Law ; Medidne ; and Miscel-
laneous. The average amount of the annual grants during the last ten years has been
15772. The Reserve Fund at the end of 1866 was 26,0002. The stock of the pro-
perty bequeathed to the Fund by Mr. Thomas Kewton, who believed himself to be the
last descendant of Sir Isaac Newton, amounts to 81672. 15«. lOd, ; and the Newton
estate at Whitechapel produces at present 2032. a year in rents. The present Cham-
bers of the Fund are at No. 4, Adelphi-terraoe, described at page 1. (See also
LlBEABISS, p. 521.)
LITTLE BRITAIN,
ANCIENTLY Bretagne or Britain-street, west of Aldersgate-street, is named from
the Duke of Bretagnej who had here his magnificent town-mansion.
Little Britain was as remarkable for its booksellers through the reigns of Charles I.
and II., James II., and William and Mary, as Paternoster-row is at present. This
location of booksellers may have been influenced by John Day, the eminent printer,
living over Aldcrsgate; and from Grub-street being the abode of authors. {See Gbub-
MREET, pp. 383-886.) " Bartholomew-dose printers" are also mentioned by Dryden.
580 CUBI08ITIE8 OF LONDON.
Soger North, in his Life v(f tks Hon, and lUv. Dr. Jokn North, ipeaking of tbe bookBelkn in tbe
leUni of Charles IL, mjb : " Little Britain was a plentiftil and perpetual emporiam of learned anUion,
ana men went thither as to a market. This drew to the place a mighty trade, the nther beottue the
ahope were spadoos and the learned gladly resorted to wem, where th^ seldom &Ued to meet with
agreeable conversation ; and the booksellers themselTes were knowing and conversible men, with wkon,
for the sake of iMoUah knowledge, the greatest wits were pleased to oonTerse ; and we maj Judge th«
time as well spent there as (in Isiter dars) either in tavern or oofltee-hoose. But now this emponnm
has vanished, and ttie trade oontraAted inio the hands of two or three persons."
Bobcrt Scott appears to have been a principal dealer in Little Britain. A news*
paper of 1644 states 460 pamphlets to have been published here in fbar years.
Bicbard Chiswell, of Little Britain, bnried in St. Botolph's Church, Aldersgate, in
1711, is described as " the metropolitan bookseller of England." At the Dolphin, in
Little Britain, lived Samuel Buckley, publisher of the Spectaior, commenced March 1,
1711. In 1725, Benjamin Franklin, when working at Palmer's printing-office in
Bartholomew-doae, lodged in Little Britain, next door to Wilcox the bookseller, who
lent Franklin books " for a reasonable retribution."
HUton, after he had left Jewin-etreet, lodged (br a time in Little Britain with MQlington, the book-
anotioneer, who was aoooatomed to lead his venerable inmate bj the hand when he watted in U»
street, as mentioned by Biehardson, on the testimony of the aoquaintanoe of MUtou. (STmmons's J^
q^MiUon, 2nd edition, p. 601.) Richardson also relates, that, in Little Britain, the Earl of Dorset, vhea
beating about for books to his taste, "met with Porodwe Lo§t. and was so stmck with some of its
passages that he bought it, the bookseller begging him to speak m its fiivour if he liked it, for that tlicj
(the copies in his shop, not the impression, as Malone states) lay on his hands as waat^-paper. Tlie
Sari read the poem, and tent it to Diydeo, who returned It with the memorable opinion : ' TUs man eats
m an out, ana the andenta too.* "
" The race of booksellers in Little Britiun is now almost extinct ; honest Ballaid,
well known for his curious divinity catalogues, being their only genuine representative"
(Genileman't Magazine, No. 1, 1731). He died Jan. 2, 1796, aged 88» in the boose
wherein he was bom.
Duke-street, formerly Buck-lane, leading into Smithfieldy was once celebrated for
refuse book-shops :
"And so maj'st thon, perchance, pass up and down.
And plesae awhile th' admiring court and town.
Who after all shall in Duck-lane shope be thrown."
Oldham's SaHret, drca 1680.
Washington Irving describee the locality as " a duster of narrow streets and oooHs
of very venerable and debilitated houses, several ready to tumble down, the fronts of
which are magnificently enriched with old oaken carvings of hideous £Eioes, unknown birda,
beasts, and fishes, and firuits and flowers, which it would perplex a naturalist to
dassifjr " (Sketeh-book), Moat of this grotesque ornamentation has, however, long
disappeared.
LOMBARD STREET,
A CERTAIN street of the greatest credit in Eorope," {Addison^ is proved by
Stow to have borne that name before the reign of Edwiud II. ; and is so called
of the Longobards, the first of whom were the Caursini family, a rich race of bankers
who settled here, and their countrymen soon grouped around them. They were also
the goldsmiths, who took pledges in plat^ jewels, &c. ; and the badge of the Lom-
bards (the three golden pills of the Medici family) has descended as the sign of the
pawnbrokers.* The black-letter ballad in the Fepys collection makes the husband oi
Jane Shore a goldsmith here :
** In Lombard-street I onoe did dweller
As London yet can witnesse wello ;
Where many gallants did beholde
H Y beauty m a shop of golde.
• • • •
I penance did in Lombard-streete
In shameftil manner in a sheete.*'
In the parish of St. Edmund, in Lombard-street, was the hostel of Isabella, Qaeen
of Edward the Second, whom, with the Prince of Wales, the Que^i entertained bere,
October 26, 1357. The rent of her house, which belonged to the prioress of St. Helen's,
was twenty-five shillings and twopence half-yearly..— ^cAoo^os^to, voL zxxv.
pp. 453-469.
* The sign is also traceable to the three pieces of gold, which are the emblem of the chiritsU*
St. Nicholas. (See Mrs. Jameson's Baered and Ltgmdary Art)
M
LOMBARD STREET. 631
Here the merchants assembled twice daily in all weathers. In 1587, Sir Richard
Gresham proposed to Cromwell (then Lord Privy Seal) '* to make a goodely Bnrsse in
Iiombert-strettey for morchaants to repayer nnto." Hence originated the Exchange
built by Sir Richard's son. Sir Thomas Qresham, who was then living in Lombard-
street, described by Hentzner as the handsomest street in London.
Here, like othcar bankers, Qresham kept a shop on the site of the bonking-honse
(No. 68^ of Martin, Stone, and Martins, who in Pennant's time possessed the large g^t
grasshopper (Gresham's crest) which was placed over his door as a ngn. It ezitfbed
entire nntil 1795, when the present house was bnilt» and the sign disappeared.
Hentzner, in 1588, saw in Lombard-street " all sorta of gold and aQver vesaela exposed to sale, as well
as aneient and modem coins, in such quantities as must surprise a man the first tune he sees and con-
siders them .V At Gresham's death, much of his wealth consisted of sold chains. Lombard-street has
retained its character as well as its name for at least five centuries and a half; and within the last thirty
years several gold and silver laoemen Uved there.— Borgon's Lift and Times qf Sir Thowuu OruJkmt
vol. i. p. 281 : 1839.
The Pope's merchants also chaffered here for their wafeT'caket and pardons. Sir
Simon Eye bnilt here a large tavern. The CardindFt Hat: and Pope's Head Alley,
leading firom 7,<ombard-street to Comhill, is named from The Fop^e Head Tavern, whidi
existed in 1464 : it had a finely painted room in Pepys's time. The Alley was once
ftmons tot its print-sellers, for toys, tnmery, and cutlery ; and stalls of fine frnit.
It was long believed that the poet Pope was bom in Ploogh-coort, Lombard-street, Maj 28, 1688,
" at the boose which is now Mr. Morgan's, an apothecary" (Spence's Jbuedaiet) ; a name long since for*
gotten, althooffh J. T. Smith took much pains to discover it. It was added that Pope's father was a
nendraper. Bat. in 1857, it was ascertained from a London Dynotory, in the SCanchestOT Free Library.
1677, that Alexander Pope, the poef s father, was then living in Broad-stree^ and was a merchant, not
a linendraper. Mr. Hotten, of Piccadilly, was the first to discover the above, as well as a broadside^
which shows that the poef s family were living in Broad-street three years later than the appearance of
the Direetoiy. At what date Pope's Ihther retired is not clearly ascertained, bat all aoooants agree that
Pope was bom in 1688, in the dvj of London. Looking to the fiu^, thereinre, that the father appears
to have been firmly established in Broad-street as a mez^ohant^ and that the tradition of Ploogh-coort^
Lombard-street, is eztremelr vagoe, may we not assume it as most probable that Pope was bom in
Broad-street, in the parish of St. Bennet FinkP In the Aihenteumy Mbj 30, 1857, we find.—
"1679, 12 Aogost, Boried, Magdalen, the wife of Alexander Pope. Here, then, we have for the first
time evidence that the elder Pope rerided in Broad-street in 1677-79, and there died and was boried in
1679, Magdalen, wife of Alexander Pope the dder. There can be no doobt that this Magdalen Pope was
the wife of the poet's Ihther, and the mother of Magdalen Backett, who, on the evidence of the poet
himaelt was the daoghter of Pope's fkther by a first wife; and thos theaoestion of relationship between
Mrs. Baokett and Pope wUl be decided alter a ccntory of diacosslon, ana against the recorded Jodgment
of his biographers."
In Abchvreh'lane, named from the parish of St. Mary Abchurcb, or Upchnrch, as
Stow says he had seen it written, lived Mr. John Moore^, author of the celebrated
worm-powder :
" 0 learned friend of Abchorch-lane,
Who setf st oor entrails ftee I
Vain is thy art, thy powder vain.
Since worms shall eat e'en tl^ae.**— Pope.
Lombard-street had also its booksellers. The imprint to Howel's Familiar Letten^
6th edition, is: "London, printed for Thomw Guy, at the Comer-shop of Little
Lombard-street and CorMU, near WooUchureh Market, 1678." And 1696, Sept. 17»
Lloyd^e Newt was first " printed for Edward Lloyd (Coffee-man) in Lombard-street."
Towards Birchin (andently Birchover's) lane stood the house of William de la Pole^
created in France, by Edward III., Knight Banneret; he was King's Merchant, and
from him sprang a unmerons race of nobility.
In Oeorge-^ard was the George hostel, the London lodging of Earl Ferrers, whose
brother in 1175, was slain here in the night, and thrown into the dirty street^ which
ftml deed led to the setting of the night watdhes.
Lombard-street highway paasea over the site of Roman booses, and has been the field of three great
Jlnd$ ot Roman remains, in 1730, 1774, and 1785-6; the latter, in its stratom of wood ashes, soppoaed
to indicate the homing of London by Boadicea. Ten feet below the street-level was foond a waif of tha
smaller-sised Roman bricks, pierced by floes or chimneys ; likewise tile and brick pavements ; lu Urchin-
lane, a tesselated pavement of elegant design, heaps of Roman coins, glass bottles, keys, sad beads:
vessels and flragments of earthenware ; and a large vessel of red Samiao ware, richly embellished, and
reminding os taat " Rome did not want Its Wedgwood." The canseway, which Wren considered fha
northeinlxAmdary of tiie Roman station, waa then also discovered in Birohin-lane.
By the London JHreotory, 1677, above quoted, of the forty-lbnr names or firms of
xk2
532 CURIOSITIES OF LONDON.
" goldimitbs 'who kept ronnixig cashes " in London " twenty-seven were (then) located
m Lombard street." Sir Martin Bowes, the wealthy goldsmith, lived npon the nte of
No. 67, now Glyn's banking-hoose, which Sir Martin bequeathed to the Goldsmiths'
Company, of which he was a distdngoished member.
The baiiking-honse of Messrs. Barclay and Co., No. 64^ on the north side of Lombard-
street, originally extended backwards to George-court, and is supposed to have been
derived from the gift of Richard Mervayle to the Vintners' Company in 1437, who
leased the premises for seventy years; from Michaelmas, 1778, at the yearly rent of
762. (Herbert's History of the Ttoelve Cfreai Livery Companies, vol. ii. p. 629.)
The staff of Barclay's firm originally consisted of three clerks ; and we are told tha^
on the third derk coming to the office for the first time, he was thus dressed : —
He wore s long:, flapped ooaf; with Itrre pockets. The ileevee had long coffB, with three laiipe
bnttons, lometbing like the ooaU worn by the Greenwich peniioners of the present day ; an embro&dex«d
■waiatcoat, reaching nearly down to his knees, with an enonnons boaquet in the bntton-hole : a cocked
hat ; powdered ha&, with pigtail and bagwig ; and gold-headed cane, similar to those of the present day
esrrled by footmen of ladiea of rank.— See lUmimkeenett, by Morris CharleB Jonea. Frivatdy printed.
Welshpool, 1864.
The banking-house was rebuilt in 1864, P. C. Hardwick, architect: it has four
storeys, reaching 60 feet in height, and 85 feet in width. Lombard-street as the centre
of "the banking world" has realized large sums for building siteo^ of which the
following are remarkable quotations :^
The banking premises of Heywood,Kennard, and Co., in Lombard-street, were purchased by the
Mercantile and Exchange Bank for 20,dO(M.; the directors of which let the first floor or the house to the
Asiatic Banking Corporation for 10002. a year. The amalgamation of the London Bank of Scotland
with the Mercantile and Exchange Bank, having made it necessary to value the premises in Lombard-
street, the Directors of the Bank of Scotland paid 10,000^ to the shareholderB in the Mercxmtile and
Kxchange Bank, as their proportion of the incronscd valae of the premises, which are now estimated as
worth 40,0002. ! The value was thus doubled within the year.
A^n, a piece of ground at the corner of Lombard-street, formerly the site of Messrs. Spooner and
Co.'s t»nking-houae, was let to the Agra and Masterman's Bank for ninety-nine years, at 6600/. a > ear.
Owing to a change in the arrangements of that bank, it was next sold to the City Offices C^mipanr at a
premium of 7o,0O02., and a building is now to be erected upon it, at a cost of upwards of 70.000/., the
gross rental of which is estimated at 22,000/., the London and County Bank paying 12,000/. fur the
ground floor and basement.
One of the best edifices in Lombard-street is the bank of Bobarts, Lubbock, and Co.
The basement is suited to the idea of a bank ; it makes no use of columns, but is the
most deoomted feature of the design ; P. C. Hardwick, architect. Here is one of Sir
Robert Taylor's best works, the Pelican Fire Oflice, with its elegant Doric and rusticated
basement, carrying the emblematic group designed by Lady Diana Beauclerk, executed
by Coade, at Lambeth, but now coated with paint. In the London and County Bank,
the whole of the Portland stone used was that of old Westminster Bridge.
The General Post- Office was removed to Lombard- street early in the last century
(see p. 894), and the Chief Oflfioe to St. Martin's le-Grand in 1829.
Here are the churches of AUhallows (see p. 146); St. Edmund (p. 161); and St
Mary Wodnoth (p. 188.)
LONDON INSTITUTION, TKE,
FINSBURY CIRCUS, was established by a proprietary, 1805, "for the advancement
of literature and the difiusion of useful knowledge :" upon its first committee were
Mr. Angerstein and Mr. Richard Sharp (" Conversation Sharp "). The Institution was
temporarily located at 8, Old Jewry (the fine brick mansion of 8ur Robert dsyton,
temp. Charles II.), and opened with a library of 10,000 volumes; incorporated in 1807 :
the sun in splendour, a terrestrial globe, open book, and air-pump, among the armorial
ensigns of the common seal, characterizing the objects of the Institution. In 1812 it
was removed to King's Arms-yard, Coleman-street ; and thence, in 1819, to the pre-
sent mansion, built on the north side of Moorfields ; it is a very characteristic design
(Brooks, architect; the father of Mr. Shirley Brooks, the popular litterateur)', the fiist
stone kid November 4^ 1816, by the Lord Mayor, Birch : the fagade is of Fbrtland
stone, and has a Corinthmn portico, modified from the temple of Vesta at Hvoli ; cost
of the building, 31,124^. The library is 97 by 42 feet, and 28 in height, and has a
gallery throughout • the collection of books is ** one of the most useful and accessible in
LONDON STONE. 533
Britain" {tee Libsabiu, p. 622). In the rear of the mannon is the Lectnre-room,
or Theatre, for 700 auditors; and adjoining are the Apparatus-room and Lahoratorj ;
the latter designed hy W. H. Pepys, F.R.S., and engraved in Pftrkes's Chemieal
CaUciitm, 13th edition, 1834b The apparatus in pneumatics, hydrostatics, electridty
snd magnetism, is very perfect; but this great battery of 2000 doable plates, and an*
other with a pair of plates 200 feet square, with which Sir Humphry Davy ezperi*
mented, have long been destroyed.
LONDON STONE,
CANNON STREET, is a fragment of the milUarium (mile-stone) of the Romans,
" a pillar set up by them in the centre of the forum of Agricola's station, the
gnoma or wmbilieus ecutri LotuUnenns." {A. J, Kempe, F.S.A.) Stow describes it
on the south side of the street, near the channel of Walbrook, '* pitched upright, a
great stone, called London Stone, fixed in the ground very deep, fastened ^vith iMirs of
iron, and so strongly set, that if carts do run against it through negligence, the wheels
be broken, and the stone itself be unshaken." There is evidence to the belief that it
was placed here a thousand years ago ; and Camden considers it to have been the great
central mile-stone, from which the British high-roads radiated, and the distances on
them were reckoned, rimilar to that in the Forum at Rome.*
The traditional history of the stone is as follows : — It was the altar of the Temple
of Diana, on which the old British kings took their oaths on their accession, laying
their hands on it. Until they had done so, they were only kings presumptive. The
tradition of the usage survived as late, at least, as Jack Cade's time ; for it is not be-
fore he rushes forth and strikes the stone, that he thinks himself entitled to exclaim^
"Now li Mortimer lord of this dtj t"
Tradition also declares that the stone was brought from Troy by Brutus, and laid by
his own hand as the altar-stone of the Diana Temple, the foundation-stone of London,
and its palladium —
" Tra maen Prrdaln
TraliedLlrndain**—
(** So long as the itone of Bmtiu U sare, to long will London flourish,'*)
which infers also, it is to be supposed, that if it disappears, London will wane. It has
been, from the earHest ag^ jealously guarded and imb^ded, perhaps from a super-
stitious belief in the identity of the fate of London with its palladium.— -JTofot and
Qame*, 8rd S., No. 1.
London Stone is referred to as a local mark of immemorial antiquity in Saxon
charters. Stow found it mentioned as a landmark in a list of rents belonging to
Christ's Church, in Canterbury, at the end of " a fair-written gospel-book," given to
that foundation by the West-Saxon King Athelstane, who reigned from 925 to 941.
Of later time we x^aad, that in the year 1136, the Ist of King Stephen, a fire, which began
in the house of one Ailward, near unto London Stone, consumed all east to Aldgate.
Heury Fitz-Alwyn, " the draper of London Stone," was the first Mayor of London,
1189. Lydgate, about 1430, sings :
" Then I went forth by London Stone
Throughout all Canjriek Street."— Xomlofi Laekpem^.
Holinshed mentions the striking of the Stone in describing the insurrection of
Jack Cade ; and Shakspeare has introduced this dramatic incident in the Second Fart
of Henry YI. act iv. sc 6. In FcuquUl and Marforiui, 1589, we read : " Set up this
bill at London Stone. Let it be doone solemnly, with drom and trumpet ; and looke
you advance my cullour on the top of the steeple right over against it." Also, *' if it
please them these dark winter nights, to sticke uppe their papers uppon London
Stone." Here it is presumed to have been customary to affix officuil papers. Dryden
(The Cock and the Fox,) has :
" Jack Straw at London Stone with all his rout
Struck not the city with lo loud a ihout."
* A like stone, of the time of Hadrian (2nd century), was found on the tide of the Boman Foes-way
Bear Leicester, in 1771; and is preserved in the Museum of the Leicester Literaiy and Philosophical
oociety.
534 CURIOSITIES OF LONDON.
WaUing-street) of which Cannon-street is a oontinoation, is rapposed to have been
the principal street of Roman London ; but it may have been a British road before the
arrival of the Romans, to which earlier period Strype refers London Stone. After the
Chreat Fire of 1666, the ground in Cannon-street was mnch distorbed, and the " laxge
fimndations " of London Stone led Wren to consider this to have been some more con-
siderable monument than even the Roman milliarium ; for adjoining " were discovered
some tessellated pavements, and other extensive remains of Roman workmanship and
buildings. Probably this might in some degree have imitated the MilUarmm AMrevm
at Constantinople^ wluch was not in the form of a pillar, as at Rome, but an eminent
building," containing many statues. The Stone, before the Gh-eat Fire, was ** mudi
worn away, and as it were but a stump remaining/' (Strype^ It was then cased
over by Wren with a new stone, handsomely wrought and cut hollow, something like
a Roman altar or* pedestal, admitting the ancient fragment, "now not much larger
than a bomb-shell," to be seen through a large aperture near the top. The Stone, in
its old position on the aouth side of the street, being complained of as a nuisance, was
removed to the north side in 1742, close to the kerb : here again it proved an obatmo-
tion ; and in 1798, when St. Swithin's church was about to be repaired, the venerable
Stone was by some of the paxishioners doomed to destruction ; but Mr. Thomas Maiden,
of Sherborne-lane, printer, prevailed on the parish-officers to have it placed against
the south wall of the church, where it now remains.
In Cannon-street is the spacious City Terminus of the South-Eastem Railway.
Luther's Tahle-Talk, English translation, was first "printed by William Da Gard,
dwelling in Su£folk-lane, near London-stone, 1652.'
*f
LONDON WALL,
MOORFIELDS, is a sih-eet named from its north side occupying the site of that portion
of the City Wall which divided the City Liberty from the Manor of Finsbury, and
against which was built Bethlem Hospital, taken down 1817--8 ; when also the Wall
was removed : " found uncommonly thick, and the bricks double the size of those xk>w
used; the centre filled in with large loose stones, &c." (Hughson's Walks, 1817.)
The level of the street has been in parts nused two feet witldn the last 40 years. Over
Helmet Court entrance is a helmet, boldly sculptured in stone. Here is Sum CoUege,
described at pag^ 214.
The Wall, believed to be the work of the later Roman period, when London was
often exposed to hostile attacks, extended from the Tower, through the Minories to
Aldgate, Houndsditch, Bishopegate, along London Wall to Fore-street, through
Cripplegate and Castle-street to Aldersgate, and so through Christ's Hospitid by New-
gate and Ludgate towards the Thames. (See Cirr Wall aitd Gates, pp. 233-236.)
In October, 1866, excavations at London-wall led to the discovery of a large
quantity of bones of horses, oxen, and deer, the horns in high preservation ; also
goat-horns, attached to portions of skulls ; spear-handles, decayed, and tipped with
horn. Till old Bethlem Hospital was taken down (1817-18), the greatest part of the
ancient wall of London, partly Roman, was to be seen here; and the Hospital itself
was built partly upon the City ditch, filled with rubbish, so that it was requisite to
shore up and underpin the walls.
LONG ACES,
THE main street between Covent Garden and St. Giles's, and extending from
Drury-lane west to St. Martin's-lane, was (temp, Henry VIII.) an open field,
called the Elms, from a line of those trees growing upon it, as shown in Aggas's plan.
It was next called Seven Acres ; and temp. Charles I., when it was first laid out, it
was changed to Long Acre, from the length of the slip of g^round first made a path-
way. In Phcenix-alley, now Hanover-court, on the south, John Taylor, the water-
poet, and a contemporary of Shakspeare, kept an ale-house, first with the ngn of
The Mourning Crown, for which, at the Commonwealth, he substituted his own head,
with this motto :
LONG ACBE. 635
"There't many a head rtanda tot a tAgn;
Then, gentle reader, why not mine f*
Taylor, as a Thames waterman, stoutly assailed coaches, among the bnilders of which
he died, in Phcanix-aUey, in 1653.
It is related of Prior, the poet, that after spending the evening with Oxford,
Bolingbroke, P6pe, and Swift, he wonld go and smoke a pipe, and drink a bottle of
ale with a common soldier and his wife in Long Acre, before he went to bed. This
woman (also said to have been a cobbler's and an alehouse-keeper's wife) was the
beautifol Chloe of Prior's poems : " he used to bory himself fat whole days and nights
together with this poor mean creature " (Fope).
The Jounujg fkrongh SHgUmd, 1722^ deacribea "the Hng-honse Clab, in Long Acre^ whiete, every
WedneedsT and Satorday, a mlxtare of gentlemen, lawyen, and tradeamen, meet in a great room,
and are seldoin under a hundred. They have a grave old gentleman, in his own grey hairs, now within
a few months of ninety years okL who is their president, and aits in an ann*d diair some steps higher
than the rest of the company, to keep the whole room in order. A harp plays all the time at the lower
end of the room, and every now and then one or other of the company rfius and entertains the rest with
a aoDff, and (by the by) some are good masters. Here is nothing drank bat ale^ and every gentleman
bath his separate mug, which he chalks on the table where he sits as it is brought in: ana every one
retires as he pleases, ss from a coffee-house. The room is always so diverted with songs, and drinking
tnm one UiM to another to one another's healths, that there is no room for politicka, or anything thM
can sour couTersation. One must be there by seven to get room, and after ten the company are mr the
most part gone."
Long Acre was at first inhabited by persons of note, and some of the houses are
handsomely built ; but ooachmakers, and the subordinate trades of ooach-trimmerSy
eoloormen, and varnish-makers, have probably lived in Long Acre since the general
introduction of coaches, drc. 1630. John Locke ^n his Diary, 1679), recommends
"Mr. Cox, of Long Acre, for all sorts of dioptriciJ glasses." A few old signs, in*
dading the goldbeater's gilded arm and hammer, remiuned to our time, upon the
boose-fronts ; but the coachmakers have of late years followed fashion westward. The
chapel on the north side of Long Aci*e was the private property of the Uev. John
Warner, D.D., an eloquent preacher (d. 1800). In conjunction with Dr. Lettsom and
Mr. Nichols, Dr. Warner originated the erection of the statue of John Howard in St.
Paul's CathedraL Among the nottrunu of Long Acre were Dr. €kurdner's Worm-
destroying Medicines, &c : also, BurcheH's Anodyne Necklaces, strongly recommended
for teeth-cutting, by Dr. Turner, the inventor; and by Dr. Chamberkin, who is said
to have possessed the secret.
The removal of part of a labyrinth of alleys at the west end of King-street, Covent-
garden, has been followed by the partial demolition of Rose-street, a dirty thoroughfare
into Long Acre, with a curious literary history. Mr. Cunningham thus carefully narrates :
" It was in this street (Dec. 18th, 1679) that Dirden, returning to his house in Long Acre, over against
Bose-ttreet, was barbarously assaulted and wounded by three persons, hired for the purpose, as is now
known, by Wilmot, Earl of Bochester. Fifty pounds were offered bT the King for the ducoverv of the
offenders, and a pardon in addition if a principal or accessory would come forward. But Rochester's
* Black Will with a cudgel' (the name he gives his bully) was bribed to silenoe. it is thought, by a better
reward. Bochester took offence at a passage in Lord Mulgrave's JBMajr on Satire; an essay in which
his lordship received asristanoe from Dryden. There are many allusions to this Roee-alley Ambuscade,
as it is called, in our old State poems. So fkmous, indeed, was the assaolt^ that Mulgrave's poem was
commonly called the Bose-alley Satire."
Samuel Butler, author of ffudibrcu, lived the latter part of his life in Bose-Btreet»
"in a studious, retired manner," and died there in 1680: he is said to have been
buried at the expense of Mr. Longneville, though he did not die in debt. The house
in which he died was not token down until the street disappeared. In the same
street, Edmund Curll was living when he published Mr. Pop^s Litercuy Corre^
tpondenee. At the comer of Rose-street, in King-street, lived Mr. Setchel, the book-
seller, whose daughter painted that very clever and popular picture, " The Momentous
Qoestion." Mr. Setehel and his father had kept shop here for seventy years.
Sndellstreet, on the north side, leads to Holbom (see p. 431). St, Martin's Hall
was built in 1849, between Charles and Hanover streets (tee p. 427) ; and in Castle-
street, in 1850, the St, Martin's Northern Schools, Wyld, architect. The style is
Byzantine, with two tiers of pointed arches ; the top story being a covered play-
ground, 100 feet long, opening to the front by a colonnade, — a novel contrivance for
keeping the children from the cvU ways of the street.
636 CURIOSITIES OF LONDON.
LORD MATOE'S STATE.
THE sakiy and aUowanoes pud to the Lord Mayor from tbe City fiznds daring hh
year of office, with sums flrom other sources, amoant to about 7900/. He reeida
in the Mansion House, which is snraptaously famished, and provided with plate and
jewelled ornaments said to be worth fVom 20,000/. to 30,000/. : his hoosehold oodbsU of
twenty gentlemen, inda^ng the Sword-bearer, the Common Hunt, the Common Crier,
and the Water-bailiff, aU of whom have the title of esquires. He has a splendid reUnue
of servants, and keepe three tables; he is provided with a gorgeous state-ooacfa, but
not wiih horses ; and he finds the dress-carriage and horses for the Lady Mayoress.
(See State Coachsb.) He is expected to give a certain number of state banquets
during the year, in addition to bearing half of the expense of the inauguration-dinner at
Guildhall on the 9th of November. The Lord Mayor's dinners are provided by can«
tract, but the wines are supplied from the Mansion-House cellars. The mayoralty ex-
penses, unless " cool was his kitchen/' generally exceed by 4000/. the City allowaooeu
The state liveries usually cost 600/.
The Fool was formerly one of the Lord Mayor's household ; and he was bound by
his office to leap, clothes and all, into a large bowl of custard, at {he Lord Mayor's
inauguration dinner : —
' He may, perchance, in tall of s Sheriff's dinner.
Skip with a rime o' the table, from new i
And take hie almain leap into a costard.
Skip with a rime o' the table, from new nothing.
And take his almain leap into a costard.
Shall make mr Lady Mayoress and her sisters
Laugh all tbeur hoode over their shouldcn." — Be* Jonton.
Custard was a ** food much used in City feasts." (Johnson's Dietionary,)
"Now mar'n and shrieree all hnsh'd and satiate lay;
Yet es^ in dreams, the onatard of the day."— Pop*.
CoHume and JeweU^^On ordinary state occasions the Lord Mayor wears a
massive black silk robe richly embroidered, and his collar and jewel. In the courts
and civic meetings he has a violet silk robe, furred, and barred with black velvet ; and
on the bench at the Mansion House, and in the Central Criminal Court, be wears a
scarlet robe, furred, and bordered with black velvet. In conducting the Sovereign
through the City, the Lord Mayor wears a rich crimson velvet robe, and a court
8uit» with point laoe ; the velvet hood of old has been superseded by a three-cornered
dress hat, trimmed with black ostrich-feathers. At state banquets, the Lord Mayor
wears an " entertaining robe, richly embroidered with gold :" a new robe» in 1867, cost
160 guineas.
The wear iffrobn of varions oolovtrs upon oertain daji was fixed by a regulation in 1563, and, with
the cnstoms and orders for meeting, was printed in a tract by John Day, now very ecaree. Bat the
present authority for the customs is a pamphlet printed by direction of the Common Council In 1790.
The Collar is of pure gold, composed of a series of links, each formed of a letter S; a
united York and Lancaster, or Henry VII. rose; and a massive knolt. The ends of
the chain are joined by the portcullis, from the points of which, suspended by a ring
of diamonds, hangs the JeweL The entire Collar contuns 28 SS, 14 roses, and IS
knolts, and measures 64 inches. The Jewel contains in the centre the City arms, cat
in cameo, of a delicate blue, on an olive ground. Surrounding this, a garter, of bright
blue, edged with white and gold, bearing the City motto, " Domine dirige noa," in gold
letters. The whole is encircled with a costly border of gold SS, alternating with rosettes
of diamonds, set in silver. The Jewel is suspended from the collar by a portcullis;
but when worn without the Collar, is suspended by a broad blue ribbon. The investi-
ture is by a massive g^ld chain ; and when the Mayor is re-elected, by two chains.
Mcuie and Swords, — ^The Mace is silver-gilt^ is 6 feet 3 inches in length, and bears
on the lower part W. R.; it is surmounted with a regal crown and the imperial arms^
and has the handle and staff richly chased. The " Pearl Sword," presented by Queen
Eliiabeth upon opening the Royal Exchange, has a crimson velvet sheath thickly set
with pearls ; and the handle, of gold, is richly chased in devices of Justice and Mercy.
There are a Sunday sword for church ; a common sword for the Sessions ; and a black
sword for the 30th of January ; and Sept. 2nd, the anniversary of the Great ]«Hre of 1666.
tfMls.—The Corporate Seal is circular. O&vctm; St. Paul, bearing a sword, and a taig ensigned with
LORD MAYOB'8 STATE. 637
three lions puwnt-gtfdftnt, fUnding In a city, orer the gate of which it a kejj lef^end. sioitLTX t
■ ▲sovTM: LOiTDOiriAmTiE. Stvtntt the City Armi, with mantlinn. Ao.; legend, lovdovii
DWBxrx>s: TTos:i>iTBorTZMi:oiTB8. The second Seal, made4BichardIUbeartthee(Bffie8of
BS. Peter and Paul, canopied. Beneath are the preeent anna of the City : a croiB with a dagger m the
dexter qoarter, supported In^two lions. It appears to hare been sonnoonted with a low-pointed arch.
The centre compartment is flanked with two canopied niches ; in each a deml-figure, a seijeant-at-snns»
bearins^ a mace, and wearing a triangohir cap. The pedestals of the canopies sustain kneeling flgnres
payings adoration to the Vir^ Mary, whose eflBgy (much efikeed) appears m the centre niche at the top
of the seaL Legend, bzozlltx ovvzou:XiLJomATTB: oztizaxzs: lovdxvz: very indistinct
from 'vrear.
The Mayor Las been chief butler to the Sovereign at coronation feasts since the reign
of Richard III., receiving for his fee a gold cap and cover.*
The most memorable name in the civic annals is that of Sir Richard Whittington,
four times Mayor, 1397, 1398» 1406, 1419.
Whitthigton was the son of Sir wmiam Whittington, Knight^ and his early destitution rests but upon
the niineTy tale. His prosperity is referred to the coal-carrying Cat of Newcastle; but a scarce pnnL
br Elfltrake, of Whittington in his mayoralty robes, has a cat beride the flgnr^ showing the version of
the noneiy tale to have been then popular : in the early Impreasions of this plate a skull appears in place
of the ca^ which has rendered the original print a rarity of great price among collectors. Whlttington's
-wealth rebuilt Newgate, and St. Michael's Church, Paternoster Boyal; built part of St Bartholomew's
Hospital, and the library of Christ's Hospital, and added to the OuildhalL He also bequeathed his house
at ** College-hill" for a college and almshouse, which have been taken down, and the institution removed
to a handsome collegiate building near Highgate Archway, not Ikr ftom the stone marUng the spot
-whereon tradition states Whittington to have rested when a poor boy and listened to the beUs of Bow ;
the original stone (removed in iral) is said to have been set up by desire of Whittington. to assist horse-
men to mount at the Ibot of the hilt Whittington was buried in St Michael's Church/beneath a costly
marble tomb: but his remains were twloe disturbed bcfbre the church was destroyed tgr fir^ and now
there is no olden memorial of Whittington to be traced ; his statue has been pteced in the Boyal Exchange.
Whittington was of the Meroers' Company, ** flosmereatorum :*' his will at Mercers' Hall bean a curious
illumination of Whltttngton on his death-bed, his three executors, apriest, Ac Whittington Is also said
to hare lived in Sweedon's-passage, Grub-etreet; and in a court in Hart-street^ Maric-huMk waa ibrmerh
a \mUding.termed in old leaseT^Whlttington's Palace."
Sir Geoffiy Bnllen, Lord Mayor in 1453, was grandfather to Thomas Earl of Wilt*
•hire, father to Anne Bnllen, and grandfather to Qneen Elizabeth; the highest genea-
logical hoDOor the City can boast of.
"The ennobled ftmilies of Comwallis, Oapel. Coventry, Legge. Cowper, Thynne, Ward, Craven,
Marsham. Pulteney, Hill. Holies, Osborne, Caven<ttsh, Bennet, and others, have sprung either mrectly or
collaterallv from those who have been either Mayors, Sheriffn, or Aldermen of London ; and a very livge
portion of the peerage of the United Kingdom is reUted eitha by descent or intermarriage, to the dtisens
of the metropoUs/'^TAosKM MotUt,
In 1858 the services of the Watermen in the Lord Mayor's State Barge being no
longer required, the sam of 52. each, equivalent to one's year's emolument, was paid,
on the bedg^ cap, and clothing heing delivered up.
In 1865 an old custom was revived at the Mansion House, which had fallen into
disuse nnoe 1857, — ^that of an officer of the Corporation, wearing an official robe and
carrying a staiT of office, escorting the Lord Mayor daily from the Mansion House to
the Court, and announdng him on his taking his seat on the hencb. The staff used in
the ceremony is a very ancient symbol of dignity, and is scarcely less part of the in-
sigma of the Corporation than the sword and mace. It is about seven feet high, and
IS surmounted with a masnve representation of the City arms in silver-gilt, and the
official robe of the usher is in keeping.
The tahle plate u very valuahle. Formerly it was always customary for a Lord
Mayor to contrihute 100/. towards keeping up the Corporation plate, hut this has
not heen observed for about the last 30 years.
The total exprases of the Banquet and Procession on Lord Mayor's-day, 186S, amounted to
SVm. 11«. 41. Of this, one-half waa paid by the Lord Mayor (Mr. Alderman Phillips) and the other
half by the two Bherlfn (Mr. Alderman Gibbons and Mr. J. Figgins). The contract for the dinner and
wine amounted to 16892. 14«. lOd. The decorations cost 7362. 8«. 4<2., including 901. 12«. for loan of deco-
rations, flags, armour, ftc, from War and Store Office; 412. for repairing and arranicing flags; 402. for
hire of looking-fflasses; 602. for hire of flowering plants and shrubs; 262. for hire of awning; 1062. for
gas-fitting} 1002. for gas; 2132. for upholstery; and 332. for plumbing and painting. The procession
cost 2762. 8s. lOtC, and included 1012. 7«. for five bands of music; 322. lis. for banners and banner-
bearers; 302. 17s. for rosettes and scarfs; 642. 3«. lOd, for refreshment of troops and police; 72. 10a. for
gravelling the streets ; and 402. for decorating Lndgate-hill and Fleet-street. The music in Guildhall cost
602. 19s.) the printing and stationery, 1432. 13«. 9c2. The general expenses are put down at 2662. 6ff. 7d^
»
* There is current a piece of City gossip, of a Silver Cradle being customarily presented at the
aeeoucheroent of a Lady Mavoress; but In 1736 and 1813, such an event was merely ■irni»«fd by a wih
gratulatory vote of the Court of Common Council.
638 CURIOSITIES OF LONDON.
and ioolode some of the motC corioiu items, such as man ontberoot 4L 4«.; men bringing n|»]_
for diatribation to tbe poor, 12. 1«.; beU-rlnvera at ten chnichea, 202.; Hatley, dmnmur, Boyal London
Militia, donation in oonaidoration of an aodaent to liim in the prooesaion, 6L ; wanda and decomtionB for
Committee, 702. 7«. 6tf.; gold pena and penoil*€aaea, for Chairman and Secretary, M. 16e.; seal for the
Chairman, 62. 14«.; glovea, 102. 18«.; toilet arttdea for ladiea* xooma, 292. lU.; padlodn^ 6L, Ae. te.
Total, 31022. 11«. 4d,
The bill oftheftaatoftbe Major of Norwich, in the time of Queen Eliabeth« when he entertained
the Queen and her ooort, waa— Total chwge, 12. 12«. fid. Three of the itema were— Eight atone of berf
at M. per atone, and a tirloin, 6«. SdL; a hind^oarter of ▼eal, lOdL; bnahel of flour, (MLs two gaUona of
white wine and canaij, 2f.
LUDQATS, ZUDGATS SILL AND STREET,
LUDGATE, one of tbe principal gates of the City, was situated at the weetem ex-
tremity of Bowyer^s-row, now Ludgate-hill, between the London Coflfee-honse and
St. Martin's Church. Qeoffi^y of Monmouth states the gate to have been built by the
British King Lnd, 66 B.O. : hence its traditional name ; bat more probably from the
Flood, or Find, which ran into Fleet-river. We find no further mention of it mitH
1215, when it was fortified or rebuilt by the barons leagued against King John, and
who employed as materials the remains of the stone houses of opulent Jews, which had
been destroyed, as proved by a stone discovered in 1586, inscribed in Hebrew, ** This
is the ward of Rabbi Moses, the son of the honourable Babbi Isaac" In 1260 the
gate was again repaired, and ornamented on the east side with statues of Lud and his
two sons ; and subsequently the statue of Queen Elizabeth was placed in the west front.
Ludgate was much injured in the Ghreat Fire of 166(5, and is shown in Qreffier's picture^
engraved by Birch. The gate is described by Chamberlayne (1726) as a prison *' only
for debtors who are freemen of London." In the Spectcitor, No. 82, is *' a vcnee bawl-
ing for charity at the grate;" just as in our time the prisoners of the Fleet loudly
called upon those who passed the g^te, " Pray remember the poor debtors," as
the board above stated, " having no allowance." Pennant describes Ludgate, within
his memory, " a wretched prison for debtors." It was taken down, 1760-62, when
the statue of Elizabeth was placed at the east end of St. Dunstan's Church, Fleet-Btreet^
and the other statues were disposed of as described at p. 235. By a plan preserved
in St. Martin's vestry-room, the g^eat arch and postern of Ludgate was 87 ft. 6 in.
wide in front, and 89 ft. deep. Ludgate was made a free prison in 1878 (Ist Richard
II.) ; but its privileges were soon violated, and it became a place of great oppresaioD.
Rowley's comedy of A Woman never vext, or the Widow of ComhiU, is founded upon
the tradition of the handsome Stephen Foster, Lord Mayor in 1454^ hegging at the
grate of Ludgate, and attracting the sympathy of a rich widow, who paid the debt for
which he was confined, and afterwards marriod him : —
" Mn. 8, FotUr. Bnt wlir remove the priaonera firom Lndgate 7
Stenken Fotter. To take the priaon down and buUd it new.
With leads to walk on. chamben large and iUr;
For when mjaelf lay there, the noxioaa air
Choked ap my apirita. None but captives, wife^
Can know what captivea feeL"— Act v. ao. 1.
Between 1454 and 1463 the prison was much enlarged, and a chapel built by Dame
Agnes Foster and the executors of Stephen her husbuid, as thus recorded on a copper^
plate upon the walls :
" Beont aonlea that paaie thia way,
for Stephen Foeler, late Maior, heartOy pray.
And Dame Agnee, his aponae, to God conieorate,
that of pitie this hooae made of Londoners in XfiiJpate,
So that for lodging and wister priaonera here nought pay.
aa their keepers ahall all anawere at dreadful doomes day."
At the rebuilding of Lndgate in 1666, *'the vexae being nnhappiW turned inward to &e waD." Stow
tells us he had the Uke " graven outward in proae, dedannff him Q^oater) to be a fishmonger, oeeause
aome upon a light occasion (aa a maiden's head In a glaaa window) had Ikbled him to be a meroer, and
to have hegged there at Lndgate," Ac.
A quarto tract. Prison Thoughts, by Thomas Browning, a prisoner in Ludgate,
" where poore citizens are confined and starved amidst copies of their freedom," was
published in that prison by the author in 1682, and is supposed to have suggested Dr.
Dodd's Prison Thoughts,
MAQBALEN HOSPITAL. 5S9
Lodgate-hill formerly extended from Fleet-rtreet to St. Martin's Church («m p.
180) ; and "LadgAie-ttreet from thenoe to St. Fanl'a. On the hill, opponte the gate^
stopped tho rebelhon of Sir Thomas Wyat; and below is the BeU Savage Inm^
desiaibed at p. 462. Near this spot lived the fiunons cobbler whom Steele mentions
as a cmions instance of pride ; he had a wooden figure of a beau of the time^ who
stood before him in a bending postnre, humbly presenting him with his awl, or bristle^
or whatever else his employer chose to put in his hand, after the manner of an obee-
qoioiis servant. Ludgate-street and hill were famous for mercers in Stow's time. At
the noitb-eaat comer (St. Paul's Churchyard), No. 65, lived John Newbery, for whom
Goldsmith wrote Goody Thoo^hoet, a pamphlet on the Cock-lane Ohost, a Sutorjf
of Englamd, and edited the JPubUc Ledger newspaper. To Newbery succeeded John
Harris, and nert Grant and Griffith, now Griffith and Farran, worthy successors of
Newboy. At " the Dundad," in Ludgate-street> Dr. Griffiths published the UoidUg
'Beetmo, No. 1, May 1749.
On the north is Ave-Maria-lane, leading to Amen-comer and Paternoster-row ; and
Stationers' Hall-court, leading to the hall of the Stationers' Company (see pp.
420-422.) On the south is Creed-lane, with another ecclesiastical name.
In 1792 was dtscorered a barbican, or watch-tower, between Lndgate and the Fleet-ditch, forming
put of the extension of the Gitj wall in 1276; a fine ftvgment of which eziate in St Mttrtin'M»nn
opponte the Old BaU^. In a bastion of the walL in 1800, was found a sepolchral monument, in the
rev of No. H the London CoflRse-honse, where it is now preserved : it is dedicated to Gaudina ICortfaia,
bTberhasbandAn«ncletiiB,aproTineialBoman soldier. Uerearealsoaflragnientof astatoeofHercnlea^
sod a female head.
At No. 32, north ^de, was the picturesque old shop-front of Bundell and Bridge^
goldsmiths and diamond-jewellers to the Crown, with the sign of the Golden Salmon.
Here was executed Flaxman's Shield of Achilles, in rilver-gilt : and here was fitted up
the imperial Crown for the coronation of George IT. in 1821 ; and a silver wine-cooler
which occupied two years in charing. Mrs. Randell wrote The Art of Cookery (Domeetie
Cookery), for which she ultimately received 2000 guineas. At No. 45, William Hone
pabliahed his political satires, with woodcuts by Cruikshank ; and his Svery-day Book,
AskeierU Mysteries, ^e. In the house No. 7, opporite Hone's, was published anotiier suo-
CBBifiil venture, the Percy Anecdotes, contemporary with the JSoery-day Book,
The lower portion of Ludgate-hill is crossed 1^ the London, Chatham, and Dover
l^lway viaduct, which has been much olrjected to ; yet the inhabitants gave evidence
in its fiivoor ; and the design is identical with that exhibited by the Company, in 1860,
before Parliiunent. The objections are too numerous to detail here : one is, inter-
ference with one of the finest architectural views in the metropolis. Coleridge, many
years rince, remarked : " A Mr. H , a friend of Fox's, who always put himself
fiirward to interpret the great orator's sentiments, and almost took the words out of
Hs mouth, put him in mind of the steeple of St. Martin, on Ludgate-hill, which is
ooQstantly getting in the way when you wish to see the dome of St. Paul's." How-
ever, Coleridge's remark is here nuU-apropos; for St. Martin's Church spire improves
the view of St. Paul's. It is true that the level of the bridge is low, but it has unques-
tionably spoiled the view, and its small elevation above the street (18 feet) traffic is an
objection of another class. The street of Ludgate-hill is here only 42 feet wide ;
bat, as the Corporation intend, at some future time, to enlarge the thoroughfiire, the
span is 18 feet wider than the street, or 60 feet. The bridge is composed of five
pi^en of wrought iron, screened from sight by ornamental iron-work, and relieved
^th decorative brackets, bronze armorial medallions, and handsome gas-lanterns
and standards. It carries four lines of rails. Through Ludgate-hill there have passed,
in twelve hours, 8762 vehicles, 13,025 horses, and 106,852 persona. The entire line
fiom Bridge-street to St. Paul's is now Ludgate-iUZ/.
MAGDALEN HOSPITAL,
ST. GEORGE'S FIELDS, for the relief and reformation of unfortunate women andpeni*
tent prostitutes, was prqjected by Robert Dingley, Jonas Hanway, and a few othersp
640 0UBI08ITIE8 OF LONDON,
In 1758 ;* and opened at a home in Fnscot-street, Goodman's-fields^ when eight xm-
happy objects were admitted; and from thenoe to Feb. 26, 1761, there were reoeired
into "Magdalen-hooie" 281: of a hundred inmates, not a seventh were IS
years old.
AmoDir the names of the earlint beneraetort ooean that of Omjchuiid, the black merchant of Cal-
eatta. Hebeqaeathed between this and the Foondlinsr Hospital 37,500 current nipees, to be eqaaU?
dirided. Unfortnnatelr, howerer, ** a portion only of this munificent legacy could be extract ed firoen the
map of Hnrzortmal, hit eiecntor, notwithstanding the zealous intermenee of the GoTemor-geaenl
(Warren Hastings) snd other eminent fimctionarles.'* — BromUov,
Another early promoter was the Ber. William Dodd, "the nnfbrtnnatey" who, is
1769, preached a sermon for the benefit of the charity ; and again in 1760, before
Prince Edward, Dnke of York : both sermons are eloquent oompositaona, were printed,
and large editions sold.f The Magdalens wore a grey uniform dress, high in the neck,
long black mittens, mob-cap, and a broad black dbip hati In the list of contribntors
we find *'A Lady unknown, a Lottery Hcket, No. 34987, in the Lottery 1758» a
Prize of 6001, f Lord Chesterfield, 2U per annum; "Will's Cofiee-hoose, Lincohi's
Inu, 16/. 16«.;" the "Charity Boxes," in one year, recdved 4&81, lOf.; and the
women's needlework produced 282/. lis. 9d, : there being about 100 in the house.
Among their empli^yments was making their own clothes, spinning the thread and makinip the doth;
to knit their stockings : to make bone-laoe, black lace, artificial flowers, children's toys, winding »Ik«
embroidery, millinery, m^ng women's and children's shoes, mantoas, staTs, coats, oaala for wi/^
weaTing hair for perakes, making leathern and silken gloves and garters, drawinc^ patterns, makisj:
soldierr clothes and seamen's slops, making carpets after the Torkey manner, Sec,
In 1769, the charity was incorporated and the institution declared extra-parochial:
the present Hospital was commenced, 6^ acres of St. George's common fields having
been purchased by the governors. Attached to the Hospital is a chapel, rendered
attractive by the singing of the Magdalens, screened from the congregation ; and the
donations at the chapel doors are very productive to the Hospital funds : formerly, the
admisuon on Sunday evenings was by ticket. Queen Charlotte patronized thia charity
66 years. Queen Yictoria became patroness in 1841.
Fit ol^eets for the Hsgdalen charitr are admitted without any recommendation, on tbdr own ap{^
cation and petition, on the first Thursday in every month. More than 8000 have been received since the
Hospital was established ; more than two-thirds have been permanently reclaimed, and many ha^
married and become respectable members of society : all who nave behaved well are discharged with
some provision for their future maintenance.
MANSION SOUSE, THE,
OF the Lord Mayor, and his residence during his year of office, occupies the site of
Stocks'-market, nearly fadng the area of the Royal Exchange. The foundation
of the Mansion-house was laid in 1739 by Lord Mayor Perry ; but the building was
not finished until 1758, in the mayoralty of Sir Crisp Grasooigne, the first Lord Mayor
who resided in it. The architect was the elder Mr. Dance; the style ia that of
Palladio ; and the building, which is entirely insulated, is of Portland-stone, and re-
sembles a massive Italian palace. The principal front has a very fine Corinthian
portico^ with six fluted columns, supporting a pediment, in the tympanum of which is
a group of allegorical sculpture by Sir Robert Taylor. In the centre is a female im-
personation of the City of London, trampling on her enemies ; on hec right is the
Iloman lictor, and a boy bearing the cap of liberty ; and beyond them is Neptune and
nautical insignia. To the lefb of the centre is another female attended by two boys,
and bearing an olive-branch and cornucopia; the extreme angles being filled with casks,
bales, and other emblems of commerce. On each side a fiight of steps, balustraded,
ascends to the entrance beneath the portico ; and in the rusticated basement is the en-
trance to the offices. On the west side is a Roman-Doric porch. A long narrow atdc^
called the Mare's (Mayor's) Kest, has been removed from the roof.
The interior of the block of buildings was an open court of elaborate diaracter,
* A plan of the kind was suggested in the OmlUman't Magazine for April 1751 ; and the BamUtr,
No. 107.
t Account of the Hsgdalen Charity; with the above Sermons, Advice to the Magdalens, Prayen,
Bnlea,Ao. Printed in 1761.
MANSIONS, 541
rimilar to that part of an Italian palace ; but the central area is now filled with the
saloon, which is of wood. This gprand banquet-room was designed by the Earl of
Bnrling^n, and is called the Egyptian Hall, from its accordance with the Egyptian
Hall described by Vitravius. It has two side screens of lofty oolnmns, supporting a
vanlted roof, and lit by a larg^ western window ; it can dine 400 guests, and here the
Xiord Mayor gives his State-banquets. In the side walls are sixteen niches, filled with
sculptured groups or figures. (See Statues.)
There are other dining-rooms ; as the Venetian Parlour, Wilkes*s Parlour, &c. The
drawing-rooms and ball-room are superbly decorated ; above the latter is the Justice-
room (constructed in 1849), where the Lord Mayor sits daily. In a contiguous apart
ment was the State Bed. There are a few gallery portraits and other pictures. The
kitchen is a large hall, provided with ranges, each of them large enough to roast an
entire ox. The vessels for boiling meat and vegetables are not pots but tanks. The
stewing range is a long broad iron pavement laid down over a series of fiimaces ; the
spits are huge cages formed of iron bars, and turned by machinery.
At one time the Household of the Tx>rd Mayor was aboat twenty-foor in number, who held their
offices by parohaee. and with a power of alienation. At the head of them were the four esquires of the
Lord Mayor, of whom the Swordbearer was the senior; and among the rank and file were the Lord
Mayor's Clerk, the Common Crier, the Common Hunt, three Sexjeant Carrers, three Seijeant« of the
Chamber, the Seijeant of the Channel, the two Marshals, the Attorneys of the Mayor's Court (four in
number), Uie Water Bailiff, and several more. When on duty they had all the right to dine at the
Swordbearer's table, and as the services of many of them were in daily requisition, a dinner was provided
daily throughout the year at the cost of the Chief Magistrate for the time being. About the year 1822
the household dinners were Ihnited, by a resolution of the Court of Common Council, to thirteen in the
year, on so many civio state oocasions; and in still more modem times the number has been gradually
curtailed, until the entertainment given annually on Plough Monday is the only one that survives. On
the abolition of the dai]y table many of the household compounded for the lost privilege by the receipt
of 100^. a Year each, for the rest of their lives, upon the basis of 7«. Od. a dav ; and the official income of
the Lord Mayor was diminished bv 10002. a year in consideration of his being relieved firom the obUga-
tiou of providing it. AU Uie members of the household now hold their offices l^ election, and no longer
by puruiBse.
MANSIONS.
APSLEY HOUSE (Duke of Wellington), Hyde-park-corner, Piccadilly, and happily
called by a foreigner " No. 1, London," was built about 1785-6, by the Adams,
for Charles Bathurst Baron Apsley, Earl Bnthurst and Lord Chancellor, who died in
1794. Here resided the Marquis Wellesley, elder brother of the great Duke of
TVellington, who purchased the house in 1820. It was then a plain brick mansion, but
was cased with Bath-stone in 1828, by B. Wyatt, who designed the tetrastyle Corinthian
portico and pediment upon a rusticated entrance arcade ; built a gallery and suite of
rooms on the west or Hyde-park side, and enlarged the garden by a strip of ground
firom the Park. These additions and repairs are stated to have cost 130,000/.
The bullet-proof iron Venetian blinds (the first of the kind) were put up by the late Doke of Wel-
lington, after his windows had been broken by the Reform Bill mobs; and these blinds were not removed
during the Duke's lilS&<time. ''They shall stay where they are," was Ids remark, ** as a monument of
the gullibility of a mob, and the worlhlessness of that sort of populority for which fhey who give it can
swsign no good reason. 1 don't blame the men that broke my windows { Uiey only did what they were
Instigated to do by others who ought to have known better. But if any one be disposed to grow giddy
with popular applause, I think Uiat a glance towards these iron shutters will soon sober him." The
blinds hiave long been removed.
The court-yard is enclosed by richly bronzed metal g^tes (in which the Grecian honey-
suckle is finely cast) ; and the stone piers have curious chapiters. The hall-door and
Jcnocker belong to the original house. In the waiting-room is Steell's bust of " the
Puke;" Costlereagh, by Chantrey; Pitt, by NoUekens; and a reduced copy of Bauch's
statue of Blucher ; busts of Mr. Perceval, Colonel Gurwood, Mr. Ponsonby, &c. At
the foot of the grand staircase is Canova's colossal marble statue of Napoleon, holding
a bronze figure of Victory in his right hand : it is Canova's noblest and most antique-
looking work ; it is 11 feet high, and, except the left arm, was cut from one block of
marble.
The pictures in the first Drawing-room include the Card-players, by Caravaggio, fine
in expression, and marvellous in colour, light, and shade ; the great Duke of Marlborough
on horseback (fh>m White Knights), probably by Vandermenlen ; " Chelsea Pensioner
reading the Gazette of the Battle of Waterloo," a commission to Wilkie from the
542 CUBI08ITIE8 OF LONDON
Duke, for which he paid 1200 gpuneas in bank notes ; and the compamoa-pictare,
** Greenwich Pensioners," by Burnet, and booght firom him by the Duke flir 500
guineas; Van Ambarg in the Den withlaons and Tigers, painted by Sir E. Landseer, RJL,
after the inatroctions of the Duke, who with the Bible in his hand, pointed out the
passage (Gen. i. 26) in which dominion is given to Adam over the earth and
animals : "he caused the text to be inscribed on the frame as an authority which coo-
ibrred on him a privilege of power, and gave to himself ' the great cammisrion ' whidi
he carried out on the fields of battle and chase." (Quarterl^f Beniew, No. dzxxiT.)
Next are large copies by Bonnenuuaon, after the four celebrated pictures by Raphael
at Madrid ; the Melton Hunt, by Grant, R.A. ; Napoleon studying the map of Eiirope,a
amall full-length ; Mr. Ktt, by Hoppner; the Highland Whisky-still, by Landaoer, B.A. ;
and portraits of Marshal Soult, Lond Berosford, Lord Lynedoch, and Lord Angleaer, by
Sir Thomas Lawrence ; Lord Nelson, by Sir William Beechey ; Sir George Mmray,
Sir Thomas IHcton; and Sarah, the first I/ady Lyndhunt, by Wilkie : the canvas was
pierced by a stone during a Reform Bill riot, but it has been cleverly repaired. Here
are portraits of the Emperor Nicholas, of the Wellesley family, and, by Winterhalter.of
the Duke's godson. Prince Arthur. Here also are George IV. and William IV. (whole-
lengths), by Sir D. Wilkie. There are at least six portraits of Napoleon ; and full-
lengths of the Emperor Alexander ; and Kings of Proaua, France, and the Netherlands.
Still, there is no faithful or worthy representation of the Duke in the oollectioa; nor
of statesmen of his generation — ^not even PeeL There is but one battle-ecene —
Waterloo, taken fVom Napoleon's head-q[uarters by Sir W. Allan; of this picture the
Duke observed, " Good, very good — ^not too much smoke."
Among the fhrniture are two magnificent Boman mosaic tables ; a splendid pair of
Sevres vases, the gift of Louis XVIII. ; a malachite vase, from Alexander Emperor of
Bussia ; a service of Sdvres china, from Louis XVIII., &c.
In the Picture-gallery, in the western wing, the Waterloo Banquet was hdd annually
on June 18, until 1852. Over the fireplace hangs a copy of the " Windsor " Charles L
on horsebabk. Here is the gem of the collection, " Christ on the Mount of Olive,"
by Correggio, on panel, the most celebrated specimen of the master in this country : the
light proceeds from the Saviour. This picture was captured in Spun, in the carriage
of Joseph Bonaparte, and restored by the captor to Ferdinand YII., but was presented
to the Duke by that Soverdgn. Next in excellence are the examples of Vdasques,
chiefly portraits, and "the Water-seller;" a Female holding a wreath, by Titian;
spedmens of Claude, Teniers, and Jan Steen ; the Signing of the Peace of Westphalia, by
Terburg, from the Talleyrand collection. Here is also a repetition of the Madonna della
Sedia of Raphael, by Giulio Romano; and a marble bust of Pauline Bonaparte, by CanoviL
In the centre are two majestic candelabra of Russian porphyry, 12 feet high, pre-
sented by Alexander Emperor of Russia; and two fine vases of Swedish porphyry,
from the King of Sweden. The Gallery and the Waterloo Banquet are well seen in
Salter's large picture, engraved by Greatbatch ; and the Duke receiving his Guests has
been painted by J. P. Knight, R.A.
In the Chlnarroom, on the ground-floor, are a magnifloent Dresden deestft-aerviee, presented bj the
King of Saxony, painted with the Dake's victories in India, the Peninsula, and at Waterloo; other ser-
vices of china presented by the Emperor of Austria, the King of Prussia, and Louis XVIII. : the silver
nlatean. SO feet long and 30 feet wide, and lighted by 106 wax tapers, the gift of the King of Pcntngal;
three silver-gilt candelabra (a foot-soldier, ufe-size), presented by the Corporation of London : tJw
superb Waterloo Vase, from the City merchants and bankers; and the Wellington ShUld^ designed by
T. Stothard, BJL, and in general treatment resembling Flaxman's Shield of Achilles. It is ailTerfrilt.
drcular, about 8 ft. 8 in. diameter. In the centre is the Duke of Wellington on horseback, the head of
his charger forming the boas of the shield: around him are his illustrious officers; abore is Fame
erowntng the Duke with a wreath of laurel : and at his feet are prostrate figures of Anarchy, IMsoord,
and Tyranny. The wonder of this central group Ls the management of the horses within the drde (of
oak-branches), the evolutions of the chargers emanating Arom the centre.— in itself a most original eon-
oeption. The border of the shield is in ten compartments, each bearing a bas-relief of the prineinil
events in the Duke's military life, to the Peaee of 1814^ and are as follows ; Assaye, Vimiera, the Doorc^
Torres Yedras, Badiyoz, Salamanca, Vittoria, the Pyrenees, Toulouse, and the Duke receiving his ooruoet
from the Prince Regent. Stothard's designs are large drawings in sepia*, he made his own models for
the chaser, etched the designs the same size as the originals, and received his own demands, 160 guineas.
The columns, by Smlrke, stand one on each side of the shield, about 4 ft. 3 in. high, surmounted with
figures of Fame and Victory : each column consists of a palm-tree, with a capital ot leaves; anmnd the
base are emblematic figures, and military trophies and weapons at Uie angles. The cost of this suDeri)
natioDsl gifi» completed in 1822^ was 70002. ^^
MANSION'S. 643
In the China-room, alao, are bronze busts, of great spirit and finish, of Henri
Qoatre, the Prince of Cond^, Louis XIV., Marshal Turenue, and the Marquis
Wellesley. Beyond is the Secretary's-room, the Great Duke's private room, and lastly
his bed-room, which, early in 1853, the public were permitted to inspect, precisely ar-
ranged as th^ were last used by his Grace, in September, 1852: the library he con-
sulted, the books he kept beside him for reference, the mass of papers, maps, and
documents, even to the latest magazine, were undisturbed. The Duke's room* was
lined with bookcases and despatch-boxes, and had a red morocco reading-chair, a second
chair, a desk to stand and write at ; a drcular-topped writing-table ; two engravings
of the Duke, one when young, the other (by Count D'Oraay) when old ; a small
drawing of the Countess of Jersey, by Cosway, between medallions of the present
Ihichess of Wellington and Jenny Lind. In the Secretary's-room was a rough un-
painted box, which accompanied the Duke through all his wars; in which he stowed
away his private documents, and whereon he wrote many of his despatches, and traced
the orders for military mancBuvres.
A short passage to the east leads to " the Duke's bed-room," which is narrow,
shapeless, and ill-lighted; the bedstead small, provided with only a mattress and
bolster, and scantily curtained with green silk ; the only ornaments of the room being
an unfinished sketch of the present Duchess of Wellington, two cheap prints of
military men, and a small portrait in oU. Tet here slept the Great Duke, whose
" eightieth year was by." In the grounds and shrubbery he took daily walking exer-
cise ; where, with the garden-engine, he was wont to ei\joy exertion.* Lastly, '* in
fine afbemoons, the sun casts the shadow of the Duke's equestrian statue full upon
Apsley Houae» and the sombre image may be seen gliding spirit-like over the firont."
(Quarterify Beview, Ko. dxxxiv.) The house and pictures can only be seen by special
permisnon. A Caialogue raitonnie is published by Mitdiell, Old Bond-street.
Psrt of the lite of Amiey Honse wu a ideoe of groond given bj Oeorfe IL to an old soldier, Allen,
lyiM, tne nonna was sold for a oonsiderabi
apple-fltaU is shown in a print dated 1766.
Abotll HorsB, Argyll-street, centre of the east ride, was a plain manaon, with a
front court-yard, and was formerly the roridence of the Duke of Argyll, by whom it
was sold, about 1820, to the Earl of Aberdeen : here ** the Aberdeen Ministry " was
formed in 1652.
Soon after the soooession of the present Earl to the title, in 1864^ his lordship had part of the
Smites fitted ap as an Indostrial school for sboat sixty boys : there were a class-room, in which the
B were instructed; a dining or mess room; work rooms, in which nseftil trades, such as shoemiJUne,
oring, Ac^were taoffht; and a lecture-room, in which leotmres were given to the poor of the neign-
hoarhood. The ooaeh-noiise, in Marihoroagh-mew% was changed into baths and lavatories, and accom-
modation for some of the boys to sleep on the premises. The whole were carried out on a sindlar
principle to the schools of Dr. Onthrie in Edinbargh. The boys were also clothed and Ibd by the noble
earl; the most destitnte in the neighbourhood were admitted.
The manaon was sold July 5, 1862, fbr 18,6002., and waa taken down : it com*
prised a paved hall, 80 feet by 21 feet ; a great drawing-room, 27 feet by 21 feet; a
banqueting-room, 48 feet by 31 feet ; a library, 24 feet by 19 feet» &c., all fitted with
statuary, kc The rooms were stately, but sombre. On August 24th was sold here
the late Earl's valuable parliamentary and miscellaneous library, together with Eng-
lish and foreign works in connexion with architecture and the fine arts; a col-
lection of manuscripts in Arabic, Persian, Turkish, Greek, and Latin, on vellum, and
illuminated in gold and colours. The sito is now occupied by a new Bazaar.
BABnra, Mr. T., No. 41, Upper Grosvenor-street, has a fine coDection of pictures;
Dutoh and Flemish, from the cabinet of the Baron Verstolk, at the Hague; Italian*
formerly Sir Thomas Baring's ; English pictures, mostly from the exhibitions of the
Royal Academy. Among the Spanish pictures are four specimens by MnriUo^ in-
cluding the Madonna on the Crescent. Here, also, is St. Jerome in his Study, an
authentic picture by J. Van Eyck ; with works of N. and G. Poussin, Parmegiano^
* Jan. 3, 1820. General Bonsparte was " amosing himself with the pipe of the fire-engine, sponting
crater on the trees and floweit in his favourite garden."— Joktim/ of Cant, NiekMts OaptMtM cflf^
VoU(maiBtM9t4nafBirMtid»9mlMmtr9JMt0nandJ<mrnak,im,
544 CUBIOSiriES OF LONDON.
L. Cftraod, C. Dolci, SaWator Rota, Morales, &c. The oolleetion etn be seen <m]j
through introduction of Mr. Baring's friends.
Bath Housb (Lord Ashbarton), No. 82, HocadiUy, bnilt by the first Lord Ash-
bnrton npon the nte of the old mansion of Sir William Palteney, Bart. The entrance
is from Bolton-street : the hall occupies the centre of the mannon to the roof, of em-
bosi^ glass ; and the prindpal apartments open into its gallery, which has a richly-
gilt balustrade. This hall has a parqueted oak floor, and the walls are painted with
Fbmpeian subjects: here are antique busts and modem statues; including Thor-
waldsen's Hebe, and Mercury as the Slayer of Argus. The principal apartments
command a view over the Green Pftrk and St. James's Park, with Buckingham Palace ;
Piccadilly being masked by the terrace- wall : the floors are oak, and doors mahogany.
The Ashbarton collection it pre-eminent for its Datch and Flemish pictores, from the cabinet of
TaUeynnd. Here ire : Portnuta of Jensen, and the writinff-master Lieven ran Coppenhol. by Rem-
bnndt : Mosea before ttie Boming Bush, 0omenichino ; Alehoose, and PlaTini? at NiiM Pins, Jan
Steen ; La Ferme an Colombier, WoaTermans ; Rape of the Sabines, and Recondliatkm of Romans and
Sabines, small, bat coat 10001.; St. Thomas of VUlaneiiTa dividing his Cloak with Beggar-boja, and the
Viririn attended bj Angela, Mnriilo : Water-mill, Karl da Jardin ; fine spedmens of Cuyp^ Woarensans,
Tenters, Ostade^ and Paul Potter; Hay'harreat^ A. Yanderrelde; Lobrter-catchers, and Le Fai^t> N.
Berghem ; the Infknt Christ asleep in the arms of the Virgin, an Angel lifting tlie Qailt, Leonardo da
Vinci (belonged to the Prior of the Escoiial) : St. Peter, St. Margaret, St. Marj Magdalene, and Andrew
of Padoa, Correggio; Danghter of Herodias with the head of St John, Titian ; Christ on the Moont of
Olives, P. Veronese; Stag>hant, Velacqaez: Wolf-hunt, Ral>ens: Virgin and Child, and Charles I. and
Henrietta-Maria (ioll-lengths), Vandyke; Hermit Praying, 0. Douw ; Boy blowing Babbles, Netscber:
Street in Utrecht (sanshine), I>e Hooghe ; Head of Ariadne, Sir Joahoa Reynolds ; Head, Holbein ; works
of Wynants, Raysaael, Uobbema, Ac
In the dining-room of Bath House were wont to meet Thomas Moore, J. W. Croker,
Sydney Smith, and J. Q. Lockhart; Dr. Coplestone, Bishop of Llandaff; Rogers,
Hallam, Chantrey, Wilkie, and Theodore Hook.
Bedfobd, DmcB of, Ko. 6, Belgrave-square : the mansion contains a small but very
choice collection of Dutch pictures, &c.
Here are : Herodias with the Head of John the Baptist, by Giorgione ; study of Two Dogs, by Titian ;
Twelfth Night^^by Jan Steen ^Interior, by Baasen and Polemberg ; the Nativi^j by A. Wen ; TyaTellers
" 1; M( ■ " "' *" ^
by Salvator Rosa ; the Death of Hippolytoa,
Mountain City, by G. Poassin ; the Tribate
traits) ; Going oat Hawldng, and Landscape
Both ; Heads in grUaUU, by Vandyke; DetA Christ, by Guerdno ; Sunset, Claude.
Bebnal, Ralph, Esq., No. 93, Eaton-square. Here Mr. Bemal assembled his rare
collection CKf Works of Art, including ancient Jewellery, Armour and Armsy Seals and
Rings, Medals, Bronzes, Carvings, Clocks and Watches, Enamels, Pottery and Porce-
lain, Glass* Pictures, Plate and Furniture, the sale of which by auction at the house
occupied 32 days, and realized 61,964Z. llf . M. The books and prints, seven days,
65872. 2f. ed. Thirty-nine days, 68,551Z. 13f. 9d.
Bbidobwatbb HoxrsB (Earl of Ellesmere), on the east dde of the Green Park, adjoins
Spencer House, and has its south or entrance front in Cleveland-row, named firom that
" beautiful fury," Barbara Dudiess of Cleveland, to whom Charles II. presented Berk-
shire House^ whi(di formerly stood here. The new mansion, dedgned by Sir Charles
Barry, B. A., is almost a square ; south front 142 feet 6 inches ; west 122 feet. The
elevations and details are mostly from palaces of Rome and Venice ; the chimney-ahafls
form architectural features ; the main cornice is richly carved with flowers, and the
second-floor string-course, a folded ribbon, is very picturesque. The fenestration is
very characteristic : the principal windows have arched pediments, each flUed with
arabesque foliage, and a shield with the monogram of £ E entwined, do^-^'dosj in the
panel beneath is the Bridgewater motto " Sic donee ;" the first-floor window-dresangs
have elegant festoons of ftruit and foliage; and the balustrade is surmounted with
sculpture. The entrance-porch on the south is inscribed, '* Rcstauratum 1849 ;" and
the keystone of j^he arched doorway bears a lion rampant, the crest of the Earl of
Ellesmere. The picture-gallery, on the north side, is the height of the two floors, 110
feet long, and has a separate entrance for the public : it is lighted by glazed panels in
the coved oeiling, at night, from burners outside.
MANSIONS. 545
This renowned Collection was formed principallj from the gallery of the Dake of Orleans, by the
Bokeof Bridsewster; whence it is called the Bridgewater Gallery; and being 1®^ ^7 ^® dake to his
nephew, the Marqoia of Stafford, it is likewiae frequently called the Stafford Gallery. It was much
e&larii^ br the next poaaessor, the Marquis's second son, Francis, Earl of Ellesmere. It is the finest
prirate collection in England : fh>m the time of Raphael, the series is nneqaalled ; and in the Caraoci
aehool it is witiioat rivaL Among the 306 pictorea are 4 by Raphael, 6 Titian, 7 A. Caraoci, 6 L.
Ciracd, 6 Domenichino, 4 Claude, 8 N. Poossin, 8 Teniers, 6 Berghem, 6 Cajpt 6 A. Ostade, 6 Rem-
brandt, 7 Yanderrelde, 2 Panl Veronese. 3 Velasquez, 2 Ouido, 3 Robens, 1 Vandyke, 3 G. Douw, 3 Uob-
l)eiDa,ikc. The great Assamption of the Viivin, ^ Guldo, has the chief honour of the fiallenr ; tho
Vierge aa Palmier is one of the purest Raphaels in Englsnd ; the Seven Sacraments of N. Ponssin, and
Moses itriking the Rock, are Terr fine ; Cayp's Landing of Prin<» Maurice looks as if the painter had
dipped his pencil in sunlight Here, luso, are Turner's Gale at Sm^ nearly equal to the finest Vander*
Telde in the collection ; De bi Roche's large picture of Charles I. In the Qoard-room ; a Wilson equsl to
Kiobe; SDd the Chandoa Portrait of Shakspeare, purchased by Lord Ellesmere at Stowe, in 184S, for
355 gidneas : it is presumed to have been painted by Burbage, Uie actor ; was left by Taylor, the Poefa
Hamlet, to Sir W. Daveuant ; was possessed by Betterton the actor, and Mrs. Barrr the actress : and
most be rvguded as the most authentic likeness of Shakspeare. The collection u valued at nearly
250,000/.: ft vies with the Esterhazy and Lichteusteln galleries, at Vienna; theManfrini gallery, at
Venice; the Zambecoari collection, at Bologna : and the Borghese^ Colonn% Sciarra, and Doria colleo-
tiom, at Rome*
BuciONaHAic HorsE, Pall Mall, huSlt by Soane, R. A., for the Dake of Buckingham,
has been purchased by the Qoyemment for Uie office of the Ministcr-at-War, thtu placing
the War-office very near to the Ordnance-office.
BiTBLiKaToir House, No. 49, Piccadilly, was originally built for Richard Boyle^
secood Earl of Burlington, by Sir John Denham, Surveyor of the Works to Charles II.
Horace Walpole has given currency to the story that Lord Burlington, " when asked
why he built his house so far out of town, replied, because he was determined to have
no building beyond him.'* A similar anecdote, however, is told of Peterborough House,
Milbank;* Northumberland House; and of other houses on the verge of the spreading
town; and it could not have been said with truth of Burlington House, because
Clarendon House and Berkeley House were being built to the west of it at the very
same time. The three houses just named are thus mentioned by Pepys : —
20tb Feb. 166^-5.— Next that (Lord Clarendon's) is my Lord Barkcley beginning another on one
^, and Sir J. Denham on the other.
28th Sept. 1668.— Thence to my Lord Burlington's house, the first time I ever was there, it being
tke boose built by Sir John Denham, next to Clarendon-house.
The site was previously occupied by a farmstead. The house built by Denham was
plain and well-proportioned, without any architectural display. A print by Kipp shows
this house in the year 1700, with its quaint gardens, and beyond them the country,
now covered by Regent-street and Portland-place ; the court-yard is enclosed by a wall
of moderate height, in front of which are planted large trees ; and the carriage entrance
is through two plain piers. Lord Burlington, the architect, added a new Portland
Ktonc front to the mansion ; and a grand colonnade, borrowed from a palace by Palladio^
at Yieenza. In the centre of the wall was built, in place of Denham's plain gateway,
an archway of triumphal design ; and there are two semicircular side entrances. Horace
Walpole was in Italy when these embellishments were completed, and he thus tells
their impresnon upon him after his return : — " As we have few samples of architecture
more antique and imposing than that colonnade, I cannot help mentioning the effect it
had npon myself. I had not only never seen it, but had never heard of it, at least
. with any attention, when soon after my return from Italy, I was invited to a ball at
Borlington-house. As I passed imder the gate by night, it could not strike me. At
(laybreak, looking out of the window to see the sun rise, I was surprised with the
vision of the colonnade that fronted me. It seemed one of those edifices in fury tales
that are raised by genii in a night-time."
The Doric colonnade and gateway are attributed to Colin Campbell, an architect of
some skill, employed by Lord Burlington, who, when the designs were made, was but
twenty-three years of age : still they were claimed for his Lordship, though he is not
known to have urged his own right. Later in life he designed many architectural
works which render the eulogy of Pope in his fourth *' Moral Essay " — the Epistle on
the Use of Richer— which he had addressed to the Earl of Burlington, by no moans
exaggerated: —
" Ton, too, proceed 1 make fiilllnff arts your care;
Erect new wonders, and the old repair ;
Jones and Palladio to themselves restore.
And be whate'er Vitmvius was beLre."
546 CURIOSITIES OF LONDON,
In Barlingion Hoiue the Earl delighted to assemble the leading artists and men of
taste of his time ; poets and philosophers— the learned, the witty, and the wise. Kent,
the architect and landscape-gardener, had apartments in the manaon, where he re-
mained until his death, in 1748. Here Handel rended with the Earl for three yean ;
and Iiere Pope, Arbathnot, and Gay, often met. The latter poet, in hb 2W«ia, after
lamenting the disappearance of the fiuned stmctures and stately [nles in the Strand,
thus refers to the Piccadilly mansion : —
* Tet Barlington's Mr palaoe still renudns :
Beaaty within, without proportion reigns.
Beneath hia eye declining art reviTes,
The wall with animated plctores livet;
Here Handel strikes the atrins^-the meltfaig strain
Traaqx>rt« the sonl, and thrills throogh erezy vein ;
There oft I enta (hut with cleaner ihoes).
For Barlington's beloved hj emj Hose."
Sir William Chambers has described the mansion as one of the finest pieces of archi-
tectnre in Eorope, " behind an old brick wall in Piccadilly."
*' The interior," says Pennant, *' built on the models of Palladio, and adapted more
to the dimate of Lombardy, and to the banks of the Adige or the Brenta, than to the
Thames, is gloomy and destitute of gaiety and cheerfulness." Lord Burlington con-
verted " Ten- Acres Field," at the back of his gardens, into a little town, bounded by
Bond-street and Swallow-street; and in 1719 he sold a piece of ground in Boyle-stzeet
for a school-house, which he designed for the trustees.
Lord Burlington died in 1753, when the title became extinct, and Burlington House
passed to the Duke of Devonshire. Several alterations were made in the interior by
Ware. The Duke of Portland, Prime Muiister to George TIL, died in this mansion
in 1809, a few days after he had resigned the seals of office. In the western wing
were temporarily deposited the Elgin Marbles, before they were removed to the British
Museum. In 1814^ White's Club gave here to the Allied Sovereigns, then in England,
a grand ball, which cost 9849/.
The lease expired in 1809, and there was some talk of taking the mansion down,
when a renewal was obtuned by Lord George Cavendish (afterwards Earl of Burling-
ton), son of William, fourth Duke of Devonshire, and grandson of the architect
Lord George Cavendish repured all those portions of the edifice erected by Lord
Burlington ; and by raising the Venetian windows of the south front, completed the
Earl's design for this facade. Lord George Cavendish converted the riding-house and
stables on the east side of the court-yard into a dwelling, as an appendage to the
mansion, and built other stables behind the screen- walL His Lordship also restored the
terrace and terrace-steps in the garden; and converted a narrow slip of ground on the
west side of the house and garden into the " Burling^n Arcade," built by Ware, in
1819 : from the rental of which the Cavendish family are said to have denved bat
4000/. a year, although the actual produce (from sub-leases) is stated to amount to 86-10/.
On the east side of the gardens is the high range of buildings called ** The Albany ;"
but all its windows are ^ut out from view of the gardens.
The state apartments of Burlington House are on the first floor. Proceeding east-
ward from the great staircase, they form a suite of six rooms, richly ornamented and
gilt. The ceiling of the saloon was painted by Sir James ThomhilL The great stair-
case was painted for the Earl of Burlington by Marco Rico and his uncle Sebastian ;
the same artists painted the ceilings of the state dining-room, and the south-east ante-
room to the great drawing-room. Altogether, Burlington House merited much of the
praise applied to it in 1826 — that it was " the only town residence really fit for a
British nobleman ;" but since that period some costly additions have been made to the
mansions of the metropolis. The edifice and grounds are sud to occupy about eight
acres. The south front of the house is 180 feet in extent, and the height is 48 feet.
A ground-plan is given in Britton's Public Buildings of London.
The entrance archway may be said to have considerable pretennons to grandeur. It
Las a lofby pediment, flanked by the supporters of the Burlington arms, and supported
by four rusticated columns, coupled. It is commemorated by Hogarth in a caricaiura
print (1731), inscribed " The Man of Taste," oontiuning a view of Burlington Gate :
MANSIONS. 647
<m the sommit is Kent (served by Lord Barling^n as a labourer), flourishing his
palette and pencils over Michael Angelo and Raphael : lower down is Pope white-
washing the fronts and bespattering the Duke of Chandos in the street. Ralph refers
to the front as " the most expensive wall in England : the height wonderfully pro-
portioned to the length, and the decorations both simple and magnificent : the grand
entrance is elegant and beautiful : and, by covering the house entirely from the eye,
gives pleasure and surprise, at the opening of the whole front with the area before it
at once." Any passenger who has seen the mansion through the great gateway from
the footpath may appreciate the above effect.
Burlington House, with its gardens, was purchased by Government, in 1854, fbr
140,000/. The extent of the grounds is about 8^ acres. The building is now occu-
pied by the Royal Sodety, the Senate of the University of London, the Oeographical
Society, the Linnean Society, and the Chemical Society. No income ia derived from
the property ; the annual outgoings and cost of nuuntaining it average 470^
On tlie north side of the gardens was commenced in 1866, a bullij^g for the TJni-
Tcrsity of London, with an entrance from the street we call Burlington Gardens.
Camsiiidoe HoirsE, 94, Piccadilly — ^the site once occupied by an inn — has been
known by the names of Egremont, Cholmondeley, and Cambridge House, firom the
names of its various tenants. Here died July 8th, 1850, Adolphus, Duke of Cam-
bridge, youngest son of George III., bom 1774. During the Cambridge occupation.
Her Majesty was leaving the house, when she was assaulted by the last of the imbeciles
who hoped to become celebrated by such a guilty prooee^ng.
One ofits early noble tenants need to take hie chop end spend his evening at " the Glo'ster Coffee
Honse," when his lady had a root. *' He didn't eare for each things," he said, ** and liked to be quiet."
The third Karl ChohnondeleY acquired Honghton by marrying Sir Bobert Walpole's only lecntimate
danfffater. The son of the first Marqais Cholmondel^ (Lord Malpas) embraced the Boman Catholio
ftith, was oanverted firom his conversion by the mother of the lady whom ho afterwards married, and
subsequently Idt the Eetablished Church for the Wesleyan connexion.— iU*«iMSK».
After the death of the Duke of Cambridge, this mansion was the town residence of
Tisoount Palmerston; from hence his Lordship was buried in Westminster Abbey,
October 27, 1865. Cambridge House is now the Naval and Military Club House.
Chsstebpteld HorsE (the Earl of Chesterfield), South Audley-street, was built by
Ware, 1749, for Philip, fourth Earl, who describes the boudoir as ** the gayest and
most cheerful room in England," and the library "the finest room in Loudon ;" and
they remain xmsurpassed. The columns of the screen facing the court-yard, and the
«Dperb marble staircase (each step a single block twenty feet long), are from Canons
(Ihike of Chandos's) ; and the gilt hall-lantern, for eighteen candles, from Houghton
(Sir Robert Walpole's). In the library, above the bookcases, are porfxaits of eminent
authors contemporary with the fourth Earl of Chesterfield, who wrote here his cele-
Ivated Jjeiten to his Son, Under the cornice of the room, extending all round in
capitals twelve inches high, are these lines fjrom Horace :
wiro'vanBiTirLiBBZB'vimo'soxvo'iT'iKnTZBUS'HOBnL
]>voxaB*aoucxzA'Jucnn>iL*oBUTiiL*vnji.
Throughout the room are busts of andent orators, besides vases and bronzes and
modem statuettes. The windows look upon the finest private garden in London, and
in the lofty trees are a few rooks.
In that very pleasant table>book. HoH and Owt, by Mr. Kirwan, we are reminded that the grreat
Lord Chesterfield was the first nobleman who made the most strenuous efforts to introduce Freneh
cookery. He engaged as his cook La Chapelle, a descendant of the fiunons cook of Louis XIV. La
Cbapelle published, in 1733, a treatise on Cookeiy, in three volumes, which is now rarely met with.
Uke Alexis Soyer's books, La Chapelle's Mod9m Cook was printed for the author : it was sold by Nicho-
laii Prtf vos^ a Frenchman, over against Southampton-street, in the Strand. About this period Chester-
Held was Lord Steward of the Household to Geoige II. His dinners and suppers were deemed perfec-
tion ; and these entertainments were among the few items in which his expenditure was liberal. Lord
Chesterfield lived till 1778 ; and, ears Mr. Kirwan, ** I more than once heard the late Earl of £Bsez say,
more than thirty years ago, at Brooks's Club, that he remembered, as a boy of fourteen or fifteen, seeing
the Earl sesAed on a msue seat outside the conrtrard of his house m May Fair. Chesterfield House was,
ninety-one years ago, at the very extremi^ of Lcmdon, and all beyond it was an expanse of green
Clabbkcb Horss, on the east ride of Stable-yard, St. James's Palace, was built for
V K 2
HS CURIOSITIES OF LONDON.
the Duke of Clarence, afterwards King WilUam IV. : it has a handsome portico in two
stories, the lower Doric, and the upper Corinthian. Here resided the Duchess of Kent.
The mansion is now the town residence of Prince Alfired.
Db Gbet, Eabl, No. 4^ St. James's-sqnare, possesses a choice gallery of pictures,
including portraits, mostly whole-lengtlis, by Vandyke ; *' Titian's Daughter " holding
a casket; a pur of landsoipes by Claude; a fine picture by Salvator Kosa; and a fmr
examples of the Dutch schooL
Deyonshibb HorsB (Duke of Devonshire), Piccadilly, occupies the site of Berkeley
House, formerly " Hay Hill Farm :" it was built by WillUm Kent for the third
Duke of Devonshire, at the coat of 20^0002., including 1000/. for the dengn. It was
also called Stratton House.
Berkeley House was tnittt about 1666 for John, Lord Berkel^ and Stratton, and is stated by Erdyn
to have cost " neere 60.00(M. :" it was remarkable for its great nomber of chimneys, noble state-rooms,
esdar stairciue, the walla painted by Laguerre, and gardens " incomparable br reason oi the ineqaalities
of the gronnd, and a pretty piscina,*' and holly-hedires on the terrace, advised bv Evelyn. The Princess
Anne, afterwards Qoeen Anne, resided here, from ner leaving Whitehall, until 1687 : in the Poftmam^
Mo. M (1695), is advertised a silver cistern, valued at 7601.. stolen oat of Berkelev House. The first
Duke of Devonshire porchssed the msasion in 1687; and March 31, he entertained King WUUam IIL
at dinner there. The dnke died here in 1701 : it was destroyed, October 16, 1733, by fire, through the
boiUng over of a gloe-pot while the workmen were at breakfast; the house was entirely consomed, hot
the Ubrarv, pictores, medals, and other cariosities were saved.
** Lord Fgwtbrokt iSkak$pear/9 Lord Pewtbrokg), Donne, Waller, Denham, and Dryden read their
venes here. Devonshire Hoase, towards the close of the Itft century, was fiunoos as the head<<iaarten
of Whig politics, and for the fascinations of iu beaatiftil DochesSk whose verses on William Tell pro-
dooed a burst of admiration from Coleridge :—
* Oh, ladv, nurs'd in pomn and plessursL
Where learnt yoa that heroic measore r
She learnt it from her race (the Spencers) ; fh>m their Ihmily tator. Sir William Jones; and from hsr
own cordial nature."— Xei^A Sunt,
Devonshire House has an unpretending exterior, with an ill-matched portico : the
old entrance, by a double flight of steps, was removed in 1840 ; and in the rear of the
house has been erected a state staircase, with white scagliola walls, marble stair, gilt-
brass balustrades, and glass hand-raiL The whole interior was re-decorated for William
Spencer, sixth Duke of Devonshire, except a small room, blue and silver, designed by
the celebrated Ducheaa. The (}rand Saloon, originally the vestibule, is superbly deoo-
rated and piunted in the rich style of Le Brun, and hung with Lyons brocade-^lk;
portraits over the doors, &c The Ball-room, white and gold, is hung with French silk
brocatelle, blue and gold, and a few magnificent pictures. In this superb room took
place the first amateur performance of Sir Edward Bulwer Lytton's comedy of Not to
Bad CM voe Seem, for the benefit of the Guild of Literature and Art, bef%^re Her Majesty
and Prince Albert, May 16, 1851. The grounds of Devonslure House are a fine
Bpedmen of town landscape-gardening. Upon the gate-piers in Piccadilly are gar-
landed vases, gracefully sculptured. Among the pictures are Dobson's portrait of Sir
Thomas Browne; Lord Burlington, the architect, by Kneller; and Lord Richard
Cavendish, by Reynolds. In a glass-case are "the Devonshire Gems," 664 oat stones
and medals. Here is the renowned lAhro di Veriia, in which Claude Lorraine made
drawings of all the pictures he ever executed : they number about 200, and on the
back of each is Claude's monogram, the place for which the picture was painted, nsnally
the person ordering it, and the year, the " CUiudio fedt" never wanting. By reference to
this volume, the authenticity of reputed Claudes may be tested; hence it is called '* the
Book of Truth ;" it is well known by Earlom's engravings. Upon the back of the first
drawing is inscribed, in Claude's own handwriting.
"AudilO dagosto 1677. Celivre Anpartioiamoy quejelhictdarantmavie. dandio Gille^ dit Is
Iiondne. A Boma oe 28 Aos. 1680."
Among the biblic^praphical rarities are "the Eemble Fktys," and other old English
plays, the richest collection in the world, annotated by the Duke of Devonshire; also^ a
large collection of playbills ; early editions of Shakspeare ; designs, by Inigo Jones, for
buildings, sketches from pictures, costumes for characters in masques, scenery, &c The
exquisite tasto and knowledge displayed by the late Duke of Devonshire in collecting
these valuable treasures in art and literature have been respected by the present Duke
in preserving so valuable a collection intact.
MANSIONS. 649
DoBCHBSTEB HousE (Mr. H. S. Holford), Park-lane, built by Lewis Vulliamyp
1851-3 : a purallelogram, nearly as large as Bridgewater House^ faced with Portland-
stone; the principal cornice and frieze richly carved by C. H. Smith; the chief pro-
jecting stones are each 8 feet 4 inches square; the external walls are 3 feet lO^inches
thick. The grand staircase is of marble. The mansion occupies the site of old Dor-
chester House, in which died the Marquis of Hertford, 1812.
While thig mansion was baildini;, Mr. Uolford's fine collection of pictures was temporarily placed in
the house No. 65 (formerly Sir Thomas Lawrence's), in Bussell-square. The collection includes portraits
by Velasquez, Vandyke, Dosso Dossi, Bellini, S. del Piombo. Titian, and Tintoretto; two of the famous
Caracci series (by Af^tino and Ludovico), from the Giustiniani Pwace; amonf the Dutch pictures is a
long Tiew of Dort, and a lar^ Hobbcma; here are exquisite small pictures mr Murillo, Grcnze, and
others; and fine works by Tcniers, Wonvermans, Paul Potter, C. du Jardin, W. Vanderrelde; Oiorgione,
Bonifazio» Fra Bartoloroeo ; Holy Family and Saints, by Andrea del Sarto; Holy Family and St. John,
by GauUenzio di Ferrara; Eveninf^, by Claude; Rubens' masterly sketches of his Entry of Henry IV.
(Lozerobourff) ; and the Assumption of the Virgin (Antwerp). The collection may be seen by recom-
mendation of known artists or amateurs.
DoTEB House (Lady Clifden), Whitehall, opposite the Banqueting House, has a
very tasteful and classical fii^ade, and was huilt by Payne for Sir Matthew Feather-
stonhaugh. It was subsequently sold to Viscount Melbourne, who sold it to the Duke of
York, for whom Holland added a picturesque Ionic portico and the domed circular hall ;
which, and Carlton House, the residence of the Prince of Wales, being distinguished for its
screen of columns, g^ve rise to a witticism thus told by Southey in JEspriella's Letters,
The buildings being described to Lord North after he had become bUnd, in the latter
part of his life, he remarked, " Then the Duke of York, it should seem, has been sent
to the Round House, and the Prince of Wales is put in the pillory."
Dudley House (Earl of Dudley), Park-lane, contdns a fine collection of 130 pictures,
tracing the Italian and Flemish schools to their source.
Here are the Oncifixion, one of Raphael's earliest works, and the Last Judfpnent, by Flesole, both
from Cardinal Fesch's Gallery ; small figures of Saints, by Raphael, in tempera : the Virgin and Child,
and the Virgin, In flint Christ, and Joseph, by Francia; Sta. Caterina, by Lo Spagna; two figures of
Saints, in pen-and-ink and tempera, by Perug^no; Virgin and Child, enUuroned, by A. Daidsi; altar-piece
of Saints and Infant Christ, by Pierino del Vaga; altar-piece. Adoration of the Shepherds, by B. Peruzzi ;
the Death of Abel, by Guido; Head of the Magdalen, by Carlo Dolce: four Illuminations by Andrea
Mantegna; Christ bearing his Cross, br L. Caracci; a seated Cardinal, by Gnercino; curious specimens
of the Venetian School, by Carlo CriTelU ; two Colossal Heads, by Correggio, and a reputed rtpUea of his
Magdalen ; the three Ilarys, and Dead Christ, by Albert Durer; Celebration of the Mass, by Van Eyck;
St. Peter, by Spagnolctto ; the Burgomaster, by Rembrandt (half-length), fro:D the Stowe Collection ;
the Hocking of ChriRt, by Teniers : Landscape, l^ Oaapar Poussin ; Venetian ^'^w, very fine, by Cana-
letti; Shipwreck, br Vemet, &c. Here are also seTeral pieces of antique Scnlpcnr^j and a seated Venus,
by Canova ; and a auplicate of the Greek Slave, by Hiram Powers.
Gloucestes House (Duke of Cambridge), Piccadilly, comer of Park-lane, was pre-
viously the Earl of Elgin's. Here were deposited the Elgin Marbles. Lord Byron
sarcastically called Elgin House " a stone-shop," and
" General mart
For all the mutilated blocks of art"— J^Zm& Bard$ and Seotek Bevtewtn.
The Marbles were next removed to Burlington House, and to the British Museum in
1816. Gloucester House was purchased by the late Duke of Gloucester, on his mar-
riage with the Princess Mary. In the state drawing-room is a needlework carpet,
presented to the Duchess of Gloucester upon her birth-day, by 84 ladies of the aristo-
cracy, each having worked a compartment. The Duchess died here April 30, 1857*
having bequeathed to her nephew, the Duke of Cambridge, the unexpired lease of
Gloucester House.
Gbostenob House (Marquis of Westminster), Upper Grosvenor-street, has a mag-
nificent open stone colonnade or screen, Roman-Doric : it is 110 feet long, and has two
carriage-ways, with pediments sculptured with the Grosveuor arms, and panels of the
four Seasons above the foot-entrances ; between tlie columns are massive candelabra,
which, with the metal gates, are composed of demi-figures, rich foliage, fruit and flowers,
and armorial desig^ns. The whole screen is picturesque and elegant, and was completed
in 1842 by T. Cundy, the architect of the western wing of the mansion (the Picture-
galleiy) in Park-lane : the latter consists of a Corinthian colonnade, with six statues
and an attic, after the manner of Trajan's Fomm at Rome ; on the acroteria are
vases and a balustrade, and between the columns are rich festoons of fruit and flowers |
550 0UBI08ITIE8 OF LONDON.
the whole is grand and architectunl. Here is the celebrated " Orosvenor Gallery,**
oommenoed by ^chard, first Earl Grosvenor, by the purchase of Mr. Agar's pictixres
fbr 80,000 guineas ; increased by his son, and grandson, the present noble owner, to
200 paintings, including :
Rsphsd, 6; Mwillo, 3; VdssqDO, S; Tltiaii,S: Paul Teronwe. 3 ! Gnido, 6; Salvator Bon, 4;
Claude, 10; N.and G. Poonin, 7; Bembnndt,?; Babens, 11; Vnndjke, 2; HobbeDQa, 2; Cimi, 4;
Snyden, 2 ; Tenton^ ; West, 6 ; Hogarth, 8; Galnaboroiudi. 3 ; with apedmenB of Lebnm, Pul Potter,
Gerard Donw, Van Hayaiim, Vanderrelde, WoaTennaiui. Sir Joahoa K^jrnolda^ and Wilson; Perqg^na^
Bellini, Giolio Bomano. and Saaao Ferrato : Corr^slo, Pannegiano, L. da Yinci, Ac.
Among the moat celebrated are the fonr coIoimI piotnrea by Babens, painted in Spain in 1828i,— tiw
Israelitea gathering Manna, Abraham and Helchiaedek, the Four Eyangeliate, and the Fathera of tha
Chnrch,— from the convent of Loechea, near Madrid, pnrchaaed for 10^0001. : Cattle and Landscape, tqr
Paul Potter, a miracle of art : Gentleman holding a Hawk, and Lady with Fan, by Bembrandt, two of
the finest portraits erer pahited ; Mrs. Siddona as the Trapc Mose, Sir Joshua Reynolds'e masterpieofl^
eoat 17e02. In the ante-room U a very large painting, bj umaletti, of a grand BoU-flgbt in St. Mask's
Place, Venice, in 1740, with many thousand ngurea.
Among the rarities is a triptych pand-pidnire by Memmellnck, 16th century: the central oompaErt^
ment oontaina our Saviour, the Vimn Mvy, and St John the Evangelist; the voUU, St. John the
Mary, the sister of Martha and Lazarus, with the pot of omtment: of moat elaborate eie-
Baptist, and
ontion; bought by the Marquis of Weatminster in 1846.
No private galierv in this country exceeds the Grosvenor Gallery in point of varieif. The number
of pictures in the Biidgewater collection is more than double, the series more complete^ and aomecf
popular as a resort for the mere amateur, and not leas attractive and improving to the student
enthusiast.— Mrs. Jameeon's Private ChJUriet of AH,
Among the sculpture is Susanna, life-nase, by Pozzi ; Chipid and FSyche^ by Sir BL
Westmacott, B.A. ; a Faun (antique) ; and busts of Mercury, Apollo, Homer, Fbiis
and Helen, Charles I. and Cromwell, &c. The vases are fine; and the superb plate
includes antique salvers, and a profhnon of race*cups, won by the Marquis of Westmin-
ster's nfilebra ted stud. The pictures are to be seen only, on a specific day, by admis-
sioni^dbtainable by personal acquaintances of, or introduction to, the Marquis of
Westminster.
Habcottiit HorsB (Duke of Portland), on the west ade of Cavendish-square, origi-
nally built for Benson, Jjord Bingley, and altered from Archer's design, is described by
Balph, ii^^*^, as "one of the most singular pieces of architecture about town ; rather
like a donVent than the residence of a man of quality," resembling a copy of some of
Ponssin's landscape ornaments : and so it remains to this day. It was originally osUed
Bingley House. The handsome offices in the rear were designed by Ware.
Hebttobd HoirsB (Marquis of Hertford), No. 105, f^ccadilly, was formerly the
Pulteney Hotel, where Alexander, Emperor of Bussia, and his sister the Duchess of
Oldenburg, sqjom^ed' in 1814^ and where the Duchess of Oldenburg (the Emperor
Alexander's sister) introduced Prince Lipoid to the Princess Charlotte. The original
fe^ade, rich Italian, was by Novomelski, with a Qredan-Doric porch added by Sir
Bobert Smirke. The mansion was designed for the Earl of Barrymore, but was un-
finished at his death ; was first let as an hotel, and then to the late Marquis of Hertford.
It was taken down and rebuilt mostly with the same Portland stone, in 1851, when the
house was heightened firom 57 to 71 feet. The drawing-rooms have a vista of 114 &et^
and the picture-gallery 60 feet, but the manson remained some years untenanted after
its rebuilding.
The Hertford collection oontaina chtf^emcrtt from the gallery of the King of Holland : WateNmOl,
Hobbema: Holy Family, Babens (cost 247di.) ; Alchemist, Teniers; la Yierge de Fade, A. del ^arto;
Yandvke, by himself; Oxen in a Meadow, Paul Potter; sereral pictores by Cuyp; the Annunciation, hj
Murillo; Landscape with Herdsman, Claode; his own Portrait by Bembrandt; Christ giTing the Km
to 8t. Peter, Babens: and, from the Stowe collection, the Sibyl, by Domenichino; and the unmerdnii
Servant, by Bembrandt (sold for 23002.) The Marqois also possesses a fine collection of china, and ooetl^
otgects of art and o«rte.
HoLDBBNSBBS HousE (Mai^uis of Londonderry), No. 16 Park-lane, contains a
magnificent Sculpture-gallery, wherein are several works by Canova and other great
sculptors ; Theseus and the Minotaur, frofm the Fries Gallery at Florence; the Kneel-
ing Cupid, &c. ; full-length portraits of British and Foreign Monarchs of the present
century, by Sir Thomas Lawrence ; life-size model of Thomas's Statue of Lord Castle-
reagh, the celebrated minister, placed in Westminster Abbey ; and presented to tha
MANSIONS. 551
flame, a oolosial Sevres Vase, by Loais XVIIL, and a valuable diamond-hilted sword ;
besides cuirasses, helmets, and other trophies, captured by the soldier-Marquis in the
Peninsalar War.
HoPB House (Mrs. Hope), sonth-cast comer of Down-street^ I^ccadiUy, was bmlt
in 1849, for the late H. T. Hope, Esq., under the joint superintendence of M. Dusillion,
a French artist, and Ftafessor Donaldson. The ftx)nts are Caen stone, and have panels-
of decorative marbles in the piers between the windows ; the arrangement of which is-
novel, especially in the attic-story. The total height from the street-level to the balus-
trade (sunnonnted with superbly-carved vases) is 62 feet. The entrance-porch in
Down-street is very rich ; in the principal window-pediments are sculptured the armo-
rial bearings of Mr. Hope, repeated with the initial H in the very handsome iron railing,
cast by Andr^ in Psris. The details throughout show very caroful and elegant draw-
ing ; and the carving, wholly by French artists, is beautifully executed. The gprand
staircase and hall occupy the centre of the building ; the upper hall is paved with
coloured marbles in patterns. The walls are plaster-of-Paris polished, scagUola panels,
and marble plinths ; the floors, fire-proof, are of cast-iron girders and tile arches. The
ceilings are panelled and enriched ; the principal doors are of oak, carved with the
initial H in fields ; some of the chimney -pieces are of pierre'de-tonnerre, panelled with
French marbles ; others are of bronzed metal, with caryatid figures. The stables (for
12 horses) and coach-houses are in the rear of the mansion. W. Cubitt and Co.,
builders ; ornamental work (wainscot doors, ceilings, stone carvings, mahogany case-
ments) by French artists ; cost about 80,0()0Z. There are few pictures here, die col-
lections having been removed to Deepdene, in Snirey. Among the antiques is Sir
William Hamilton's second collection, made at Naples. The mansion may be seen by
cards obkiinable by introduction to the owner.
The oollecUon wu formed at the celebrated mansion in Dachess^treet, Ptntlaad-plaoe^ in thr deco-
ration of whitfh Mr. Hope, theaathor ot Atuuiathu, ezemplifled the daMlo prlndi^cs illaitrated in his
larffe work on HouHlmd Fmrnitwrt and InUrnal I>«eora;tioiu, 180S. Thaa the aoite of apartments
iocladed the J^pHan or Bladt jBoom, with onamente from sorolla of papTros and mommy-caaeB ; the
famitore and ornaments were pale yellow and blnish-green, relieved by maasea of blade ana gold. Tks
Anrora vidtlnr Cephalns on Moont Ida, by Flazman; ftmiitare, wreathed flgniea of ^ Honn. 7%$
doMi or Somdotr, hong with tent-like drapery; the mantel-piece an Egyptian poiut Egyptian.
Hindoo, and Chineae idols and cariosities. JneUtn Oatterv : Ionic oolamns, entablatore, anu pediment
from the Temple of Erectheos at Athena; car of Apollo, dasdc tables, pedeiatals, ftc. In four aeparate
JSlue or Indian JZoom, in costly Oriental style. Th$ Star Room : emblems of Night below : and above,
~ Mc "" ■ " " " " " - - —
ith
ad(
"ss
apartments were arranged 200 Greek vasei, indnding two copies of the fiarberini or Portland Vase : the-
famiture partly from PompdMi models. Tko Ifow OalUry, for 100 piotorea of the Flemish acnooU.
antique bronxes snd vssea ; ftamitore of d^prnt Grecian design. Mr. Hope died at Doeheas-atreet in
1831 : he will erer be remembered for his taste snd monlflcenoe ss the early patron of Chantrey, Flax*
man, Ganora, and Thorwaldsen.
Lanbdowkb HoirsB (Marquis of Lansdowne)> which, with its garden, occupies the
south side of Berkeley-square, was commenced by Robert Adam fOr the Marquis oT
Bute, but was sold unfinished to Lord Shelbume* created Marquis of Lansdowne ia-
1784k The purchase-money was 22,000/., but the mansion cost Lord Bute 25,0002.
The Msrqois, in 1804^ aeknowledrnd the posaearion of the aecret of the aatborshin of Jonina's LettersL
which he promiaed to pabliah ; bat nia lordship died in the following week. The " Letters" are beliered
by some to have been the Joint prodnction of Lord Shdbome, Colonel Barr^, and Dannlng, Lord Aah-
barton ; and thdr three portaralts, painted in one ]^ctore by Sir Joshua Beynolda, in 1781-6, have been
regarded aa eridence or the Joint anthorahip. Pooaibly, therefore, Jnnioa'a Lettera were written in.
Lansdowne, then Shdbome. Hooae. It is better established, that oxygen waa disoovered here, Aug. 1^
177 A, bj Dr. Prlestlsy, then ilbrsrlsn to Lord Shdbome.
The reception-room contuns a fine collection of sculpture, including about fifty-
statues, as many busts, besides bassi relievi : it was oommonoed by Gavin Hamilton^
who first excavated the site of Adrian's Villa. At the foot of the staircsse is a noble
■tatae of Diana launching an arrow ; in the great dining-room are nine antique statues
in niches* including GOTmanicus, Claudius;, Trajan, and Cicero; also the Sleeping
Nymph, the last work of Canova ; in the front drawing-room his Venus quitting the-
Bath ; and a statue by Rauch, of Berlin, of a Child holding an alms-dish. In the
gallery, 100 feet in length, at the east end are life-size statues of Hercules, Marcus
Aurebus, Mercury, Diomedo, Theseus» Juno, an Amazon, Juno standing, Hercules
when a youth, Jason, &c ; and here are two Egyptian black marble statues, found at
TivolL On the sides of the gallery are the bnsts» reliefs, &c
652 CURIOSITIES OF LONDON.
The collection of pictarea, formed by Henry, third Marquie of Lanedowne, Buice 1809, is ftined for
its portraits, including Rembrandt holding a palette, by himself; a Lady (1642), Bembnmdt; Vdasqae*,
by himself; Pope Innocent X., Velasquez ; A. del Sarto, by himself; a Gentleman, by Titian; Count
Aederigo Bozzola, by bcb. del Piombo ; Queen Henrietta-Maria, by Vandyke; Sansovino, the Venetian
architect, by Giorgione ; a Cardinal and Andrea Doria, by Tintoretto; a BnrgomasU^ and Lady in a Bufl^
by Rembrandt ; Charles V. in his cradle, by Velasquez : Kitty Fisher and Laurence Sterne, by Sir Joshoa
iCeynolds; Alexander Pope, by Jervas; Dr. Franklin, by Gainsborough; Sir Humphry Dvrj, byldnueU;
Francis Homer, by Raebum ; the Marquis of Lansdowne, by Sir Thomas Lawrence ; Ladies Ilchetiter,
MaiT Cole, and Elizabeth Feilding, by Reynolds ; Peg Wolfington, by Hogarth ; Flaxman the acolpior,
by John Jackson; Sir Robert Walpole and his first Wife, Catherine Shorter, by Eckhart, (elaborate
bUck and gold frame by Gibbons), from the blue bedchamber of Strawberry Hill. Also, here are twelTe
pictures by Sir Joshua Reynolds, including the Strawberry Girl and the Sleeping GirL
Lansdowne House was long the political meeting-place of the great Whig party :
the first Cabinet Conncil of Lord Grey's administration was held in this house ; and
here, at the same meeting, it was resolved that Brougham should be Lord Chancellor.
Lord Lansdowne, the acknowledged head of the party, died at his seat, Bowood, Jan. 31,
1863 : he was distinguished by his friendship for artists and men of letters.
LTimHUBST (Lobd), Nos. 25 and 26, Oeorge-street, Hanover-square, was the rea-
dence of John Singleton Copley, R.A., and was for more than three-quarters of a
century the dwelling-house of his son. Lord Lyndhnrst, who retired from the Chancellor.
ship in 1846. HU Lordship died in the house No. 25, Oct. 12, 1863, aged 91. Here
were most of the important works of his father, including —
Portrait of Admiral Viscount Duncan; Sketch of the Princesses Hary, Sophia, and Amelia; Saxnnel
and Eli ; portrait of Lord Mansfield; the Boy with a Squirrel, painted in 1700; the celebrated original
nicture, exhibited anonymously at the Royal Academy, and which was the cause of Mr. Copley's coming
to England in 1764; he went to Rome in the same year. Portraits of John Singleton Coplej,B.A^ with
his wile caressing the infant (the future Lord Lyndhurst), and his three other infant children. Portrait
of Archbishop Laud in his robes; and portrait of Lady Middleton in a black dress lined with pink satin,
pearl necklace and earrings, holding flowers, by Vandyke; Death of Miyor Peirson, the celebrated ek^-
tTauvre of the artist, engraved by Heath— painted originally for Alderman Boydell, and afterwards
repurchased by Mr. Copley.
Lord Lyndhurst's pictures realized 5147^. ; the two freehold houses, sold for ]8i,000Z,
have been taken down, and a club-house is built upon the site.
Manchssteb House, Manchester-square, was commenced for the Duke of Man*
Chester in 1776, but was not completed until 1788. At the Duke's death the house
became the residence of the Spanish Ambassador, who bailt the Roman Catholic chapel
in Spanish-place. Manchester House was next the town mansion of the Marquis of
Hertford, a hon-vivant companion of the Prince Kegent. The French Embassy was
next located here; with Talleyrand, Guizot, and Sebastiani, successive representatives.
MAitLBOROUGH HousE, Pall Mall, was built by Wren, in 1709-10, for the great
Duke of Marlborough, upon part of the ute of the pheasantry of St. James's Palace,
and of the garden of Mr. Secretary Boyle, the latter taken ont of St. James's Park.
The ground was leased by Queen Anne to Sarah Duchess of Marlborough, who states
the Duke to have paid for the building betxveen 40,000Z. and 50,000^., " though many
people have been made to believe otherwise." The house is a fine specimen of red
brickwork, Wren being employed as architect, to mortify Vanbrugh. The great Duke
died here in 1722. The Duchess loved to talk of " neighbour George," the King, at
St. James's Palace ; and here, Jan. 1, 1741, she received the Lord Mayor and Sherifi^
to thank her for a present of venison : " she received us," says Sheriff Hoare, " in her
usual manner, sitting up in her bed ; . . . . and after an hour's conversation upon
indifferent matters, we retired." The Duchess intended to have improved the entrance
to the court'yard : an archway was opened in the wall, but was blocked up ; for her
Grace was frustrated by Sir Robert Walpole, who, to annoy her, bought the requisite
houses in Pall Mall. The court-yard is dull, but the front towards St. James's Park
has a cheerful aspect, and a garden. In 18X7, Marlborough House was purchased by
the Crown for the Princess Charlotte and Prince Leopold ; it was the iSrince's town-
house for several years: and after the death of William IV. the residence of the
Dowager- Queen Adelaide, whose personal effects were disposed of here, at the price
affixed to each article. In 1850, the mansion was settled upon the Prince of Wales,
on his attaining his eighteenth year. In the meantime, the Vernon collection of
pictured, and others of the English school, were removed to the lower apartments of
Marlborough House : and the upper rooms were granted to the Department of Practical
Art, for a library, museum of manuf^ures, the ornamental casts of the School of
MANSIONS. 653
Design, a lecture-room, Ac Here was designed, in 1852, the Duke of Wellington's
Funeral Car, which was subsequently exhibited to the public in a temporary building
in the court-yard, 1853 : it is now in the Crypt of St. Paul's Cathedral.
George IV. (while Regent) proposed to connect Carlton Hoose with Morlboroagh Hon«e and 8t.
James's Palace by a gallery of the Fortraits of the Sovereigns and other historic personages of England;
but, unfortonatefy, Mr. Nash's speculation of buying Carlton House aod Gardens, and overlaying St.
James's Park with terraces, prevailed, and the design of a tmlv National GalJery was abandoned:
although the Crown of England posscaaes materials for an Historical Collection which would be infinitely
superior to that of Versailles.
Marlborough House has been enlarged and re-embellished to adapt it for the town
residence of the Prince and Princess of Wales.
An entranoe-hall has been added to the north front of thehoose; the old entrance-hall has been con-
verted into a noble saloon about 40 ft in length bv 30 ft. in width, two stories in height On the ceiling and
upper part of the walls, on three of the sides, are large oil paintings of the great victoriesof Marlborough,
the battles of Hochstet and Blenheim, and the taking of Marshal Tallard prisoner; upon the ceiling are
allegories of the Arts and Sciences. These paintings, the work of Laguerre, had been hidden for many
years beneath successive layers of whitewash and colour, and were boarded and canvassed over. They
have been restored, and In several of them mav be recognised the originals of some old engravings <»
the battles of Bamillies and Blenheim, tu whicn Marlborough on horseback, leading on the troops, is a
Tcry prominent figure. On the lower part of the hall is hung tapestry, apparently of the dat^} of Louis
Qaatorze, the snbjects represented being the adventures of Sancho Panza and Don Quixote. In the
centre of the principal side is magnificent Gobelins tapestir, the " Destruction of the Mamelukes." The
sofas and settees are covered with tapestrv of the date of Louia Quatorze ; and the fhmiture includes a
magnificent ebony and gold cabinet^ and ebonv and ormolu terms for busts. The librorv is on the west
aide of the nuuuuon. In the furnishing and tiecoration of the State apartments of Marlborough House,
English art and English manufactures have been duly pzvtronized : Spitalfields and Manchester have
supplied the silk and damask, and Wilton the Axmluster carpets, while the fUmiture has been made
entirely in London workshops.
One of the rooms on the tirst floor of Marlborough House has been converted Into a characteristio
representation of a Turkish mandar'ah or reception-room. The room is hung round with souvenirs of
the Prince's travels : one of the most interesting articles is a l^agment of Egyptian hieroglyphic Here,
also, are amber mouthpieces, embroidered tobacco-bags, a coat of chain armour and a helmet, daggers,
swords, &C., artistically arranged ; also, specimens of Eastern dress — waist scarfs, abbas, keffichs ; and
in the centre, over the deewan, is another group of Eastern weapons— daggers and swords of rare temper,
armour and helmeta.
The new stables have the form of a block with two wings. In the centre of the
block is the Royal entrance, leading into the garden skirting the Mall of St. James's
Park. On either side of the Royal entrance are two coach-houses : the quadrangle in
front, together with the Royal entrance, is covered by an enoi-mous skylight, supported
by light iron columns ; while the quadrangle itself is lighted with gas^ provided with
clock, manure-pits, water-tanks, and trapped drains. The stables include forty-five
stalls and twelve loose boxes.
Moi^TAGTTE House, Bloomsbury. (Se8 Museum, Bbitibh.)
MoKTAQUE House (Duke of Buccleuch), Whitehall, was built for Ralph, third
Lord Montague, created in 1689 Duke of Montague and Viscount Monthermer. It
had a spacious marble floored and pillared hall; and a large collection of full-length
portraits of the Montagues and their connexions, by Vandyke, Leiy, and Reynolds;
sketches en grisaille by Vandyke ; a fine assemblage of English Miniatures ; and
View of WhitehaU, by Canaletti. The furniture was in the old French style, richly
carved and gilt ; and cabinets in buhl or ebony ; tables of marble, mosuc, or inlaid
wood ; hangings of dark velvet, damask, or satin. In the dining-room and library
were ix>rt raits of the British school ; a few Gainsboroughs and Wilsons in the boadoir ;
and both drawing-rooms wore hung with fine old tapestry, representing hunting
scenes in the forest of Fontainebleau. The mansion was screened from the street by
trees and a garden ; and between it and the Thames was a terraced garden, with
venerable trees, fountains, and statues, and an open pavilion commanding a fine view
of the river.
Montague House was one of the mansions built after the Court had abandoned Whitehall, when
various noDlc families obtained leases of parts of the Privy Gardens. The Dukes of Richmond for a
hundred years occupied here a stately mansion surrounded with pleasure-grounds, on part of which is
built Ricnmond-tcrracc. Pembroke House was erected under like circumstances ; between which and
the site of Richmond House stood Uie mansion inherited from the Montague famUy by the Dnke of
liuccleuch.
Tlie lea.«e of the site of old Montague House was renewed by the Qovemment»
thus securing to the Duke of Buccleuch an acre and a quarter of land, with a river
654 0UBI08ITIE8 OF LONDON,
irontage for ninety-iuDe yean, from 1856. The old roimsioii was then taken down,
and a new house erected in the French stylOi with lofty Mansard rods. All the
old materials were ground down and made into a sort of concrete to form the fbonda-
taon of the new boil^g, and every possible precaution taken to make the new
mannon water-tight in its lower floors. The new house is substantially fire-proof.
Iron has been substituted for wood in all the most important parts of the construction,
and erery possible precaution has been taken to prevent fire spreading beyond the
apartment in which it should arise. In front of the Crown property on the bank of
the river, the operation of the Thames Embankment Bill will reclaim no less than five
acres and a half of land which would have been admirably adapted for the erection of
public offices, had not the lease of Montague House been renewed. These dream-
stances led to much discussion ; but the mansion was completed for the Duke of
Buodeucb, and is now His Grace's town residence.
MoNTAOinE Honax, the elegant detached mansion at the north-west angle of
Portman-square, was built for the celebrated Mrs. Elizabeth Montague, who rended
here many years ; and who annually, on the Ist of May, on the front lawn, r^[aled
the chimney-sweepers of the metropolis, " so that tbey might enjoy one happy day in
the year.*'* The house is now the residence of Lord Bokeby.
Horace Walpole telli us that in Febrnarr, 1782, he " dined at Mrs. Mcmtasae'i new palao^ and was
mnch aarprised. Instead of vagaries, it ia a noble, simple edifice." ** When icame home," he aads, " I
recollected that although 1 thbnght it so magnificent a honse, there was not a mond ot gildinfr. it is
grand, not tawdry, nor larded and embroidered and pomponued with ahreda and remuanta, sod din-
qnant like all the harleqoinadea of Adam, which never let the ^e repose for a moment."
NoBFOLK HouSB (Duke of Norfolk), No. 21, St. James's-square, occupies the site
of the reridenoe of Henry Jenny n, Earl of St. Albans (temp, Charles II.) ; the first tenant
of the Norfolk fiimily being the seventh Duke, who died here 1701. The old mansion
extended to the site of Waterloo-place eastward. In old Norfolk House Qeorge III.
was bom. May 24, 1738 (O. S.) ; and Edward Augustus Duke of York, March 2A,
1739 : the room remains, with a ceiling painted by Sir James Thomhill ; the state-
bed is preserved at Worksop. The present Norfolk House was connnenoed by Bret-
tingham, in 1742, for Thomas Duke of Norfolk, and completed for his brother Kdward
in 1762 : the portico was added in 1842. The rooms are gorgeously carved and gilt in
the Queen Anne style, and contain a collection of pictures of the Italian, Spanish, and
Flemish schools; and oonspicuous among the plate displayed at state-banquets, are the
ooronation-cups received in various reigns by the Dukes of Norfolk as heieditaiy Earls
Marshal: here Queen Victoria and Prince Albert were sumptuously entertained,
June 19, 1849.
In the old manaicm are depoaited the recordB of the Howard, Fitnlan, and Mowbraj &milies.
Among the pictures is a portrait of the first Duke of Norfolk, hj Holbein ; shield inreaented to the chi-
deslre, a servant was sent to a bookseller's in Pall Mall to procure Drelinooort's Book ^ CemtiotaUomo
offtAnH the Fear qf Death, which was read to the penitmt I)ake in his last momenta.
NoBHAKTON, LosD, No. 3, Scamore-plaoe, May Fur: here are some important
pictures by Holbein ; Holy Family, by Parmegiano ; and works of the English schooL
NoBTHTJHBESLAin) HoiTss (Duke of Northumberland), Strand, occupies the site of
the Hospital of St. Mary Rounoeval, founded Ump, Henry III. ; its large conventual
chapel reaching to the Thames in the Sutherland View of London, 1543. The present
mansion was built, about 1605, for Henry Howard, Earl of Northampton, son of the
poet. Lord Surrey. The architects were Bernard Jansen and Gerard Christmas ; and
it was then called Northampton House, The Earl of Northampton died here in 1614^
having bequeathed the mansion to his nephew, Thomas Howard, Earl of Suffidk, when
the name was changed to Suffolk House : a drawing by Hollar shows it to have been
quadrangular in plan, with a lofty dome-crowned tower at each angle, in the Dutch
style. It originally had three sides, the fourth remaining open to the gardens and the
Thames; when the quadrangle was completed by the addition of the state-rooms,
•There was a/cmr<A Montagne House— viz. the mansion built by Viscoant Montague, or his son, npoa
part of the site of the priory of St. Mary Orerej, in Southwark dose, 1545; the precinct boinic named
Montague Close.
MANSIONS. 655
attributed, bat eironeonsly, to Inigo Jonea. After the marriage of Elizabeth, daughter
of TbeophiluB, lecond Earl of SuiTdk, with Algernon Percy, tenth Earl of Northumber-
land, in 1642, the mansion waa called Northumberland Souse. In 1660 Qeneral
Monk was invited to tlua boose by Esrl Algernon ; and here, with other leading men
of the nation, he proposed and planned the restoration of Charles II. On the death
of Josoelyne Percy, the son of Algernon, in 1670, without male issae, his only daughter,
Elizabeth, became heiress of the Percy estates. She married, in 1682, Charles Sey-
monr, " the proud Duke of Somerset," who resided at Northumberland House in great
state On the death of the Duke in 1748, he was succeeded by his eldest son, Alger-
non Earl of Hertford, and serenth Duke of Somerset, created Earl of Northumberland
in 1749, with remainder, failing issue male, to bis son-in-law. Sir Hugh Smithson, who
Bssomed the name and arms of Percy, and was created Duke of Northumberland in
1766: he was the grand&ther of the fourth Duke, and the immediate predecessor of
his cousin, the Earl of Beverley, the late Duke. Of the old mansion, little more
than the central stone gateway, facing the Strand, remains ; this bang part of tiia
original work of Gerard Christmas, and, with its characteristic sculpture, a curious
example of the Jacobean style. It is surmounted by a lion passant, the crest of the
Percys, cast in lead : it is inscribed with the fiunily motto, " Esp^ranoe en Dieu."
Along the facade was a border of capital letters, in place of the present ugly parapet :
One of tliese letters (S) fell down at the funeral of Anne of Denmark, 1619, and killed
a spectator. The date 1749 denotes a year of repairs, and the initials A. S. P. N.,
Algernon Somerset, Prinoeps NorthumbrisB. In 1766, great part of the northern
front was rebuilt ; as also after the fire in 1780, which consumed most of the upper
Tooms. The court-yard is of plain Italian character ; and the living apartments are
the Gouthem or garden side of the quadrangle. The boast of the interior is the double
state-staircase, with marble steps ; rich ormolu balustrade, chandelier, and lamps ; and
carved marble podium. The principal drawing-room has medallions by Angelica
Kanffinann, and a Raphaelesque ceiling. Beyond is a small room hung with tapestry,
designed by Zuccarelli, and worked in Soho-square, in 1758. The state-gallery, or
Ixill-room, is 106 feet long, and 27 wide ; it is gorgeously gilt with groups in relief, of
eagles, boys, and foliage, and is decorated in compartments with paintings after the
Boman school ; the chimney-pieces are supported by Phrygian captives in marble : this
noble room will accommodate 800 guests. Upon the walls are adxnirable copies, original
size, of the School of Athens, of Raphael, by Meng^ ; the Presentation, and Marriage
of Capid and I^yche^ both also after Bapbael, by Pompeio Battoni ; and copies of A.
^^uaod's Bacchus and Ariadne, by Constansi; and Quido's Aurora, by Masaccio.
Here are two cabinets of marbles and gems, once the property of Louis XIV., and
▼aloed at 10002. each. In the centre is a Sevres china vase, nine feet high, exquisitely
painted with Diana and her Nymphs disarming Cupid : this was presented by Charles X.
to Hugh, second Duke of Northumberland, when Ambassador to France,
pod impaBto" (Waagtn); Alnwick Castle, and Westminster Bridge, building and completed, by Cansp
J^ti; s onrioufl portrait of Edward VI., with a long inacription, by Mabuae : a Fox-hmit and Deer-huit
^7 F* Snyders; Chriat crowned with Thorns, by Caravaraio; portrait of Napoleon when First Consul,
0/ Phillips (a fine likeness) ; sereral family portraita, inclndlng Percy Earl of Northumberlandj one of
Vandyke s finest portraits. Also, carvings in ivory, after pictorea by Teniers and others; and snrnp*
Hioiia ormolu artidea. The mansion can only be seen by special permission.
In the Strand front, west of the central gateway, by an Ingemoos conkrivanoe, a portion of the wall
■ opened for the egress of carriages upon state occasions.
Hngh, third duke, who died at Alnwick Castle, waa interred fh>m Northumberland House, with
JTMt state, in Westminater Abbey, Feb. 22, 1847 ; the (hneral pageant reaching from Charing Cross to
ue western door of the Abbey : and his successor. Algernon, 4ih Dulie, who also died at Alnwick Castle^
^^ hiterred from Northumberland House, with like state, Feb. 26, 1866.
Otebstoitb, Lobd, No. 22, Norfolk-street, Fark-Ume: a valuable collection of
Italian, Flemiih, and Dutch masters, the latter including examples from the cabinet of
^oron Verstolk, at the Hague.
I^nXk Sm BoBSBT, Babt^ M.F4 No. 4^ Privy Gardens, Whitehall : the mansioa
556 CXmiOSITIES OF LONDOK
contains a portion of tbe choice collection of pictures formed by tbe late Sir Robert
Peel ; including Rnbens's celebrated Chapeaa de Faille, for which ^ Robert gare
8500 guineas: also, 3 by Cuyp; 4 Coast-scenes, by Collins; the Poulterer's Shop, bj
O. D<Kiw ; 4 by Hobbema ; 2 by Isaac Ostade ; Landscape and Cattle, by Planl Potts',
1654; 2 by Buysdael ; 7 by D. Teniers; Genoese Senator and his Wife, by Vandyke ;
4 by A. Vandcrvelde; 7 by W. Vanderrelde; 6 by Wonvermans; 2 by Wynants.
The Portraits, by Reynolds and Lawrence, have been removed to Draytcm Manor. In
the dining-room of the above mansion Sir Robert Peel was placed immediately after hk
fatal accident ; and in this room he expired, July 2, 1850. Between the dcKirs hangs
Wilkie's fine picture of John Knox preaching.
Rothschild's, Babon, Mansion, 147, I^ccadilly, occapies a site of 67ft. frontage
by 90ft. in depth, and is built on a bed of concrete extending over tlie wliole
surface of the basement story. The front walls are of Portland stone. The principal
staircase is of marble : its centre flight, opposite the entrance-hall door, ia 8ft. wide.
Tbe main landing, as well as the stairs, is of marble, and connects the two ante-rooms^
which are divided from the staircase by marble screens of columns and arches. Tfapse
ante-rooms communicate with the first-floor reccption-roonu, one of which occapies the
whole of the Piccadilly front.
RuTLAin) HoTTBE, No. 16, Arlington-street, Piccadilly : here, January 51b, 1827,
died the Duke of York, second son of George III.
SiBTHOKF, CoLOKSL, 46, Eatou-square.— Here was assembled the rare and costly
collection of articles of vertu : Oriental curiosities, ancient ornamental alver, carvings
in ivory and wood, bronzes, Oriental and Limoges enamel, Raphael and Palxssy ware ;
ornamental glass, German, Bohemian, and Venetian ; Dresden, S^vres^ old Worcester,
and Chelsea porcelain, silver, ulver^gilt^ and plated articles.
Sfekceb House (Earl Spencer), St. James's-place, was built by Vardy, a pupil of
Kent, for the first Earl Spencer, father of the collector of the BibUotheea Spenceriana.
The mansion fronts the Green Park, and has a pediment^ upon which are three graceful
figures by Spong, a Danish sculptor.
Statfobd House (Duke of Sutherland), on the west side of Stable-yard, St. James's
Palace, occupies part of the site of the Queen's Library, built by Kent for Caroline,
consort of George II. : in Pennant's time it was a lumber-room. The Stafibrd manidon
was commenced in 1825, by B. Wyatt, for the Duke of York, second son of Qeoiige III.
In 1827, it was proposed to appropriate part of the mansion to the use cif the Royal
Society ; the offer was accepted subject to future arrangements, but was not taken
advantage of, on account of the increased expenditure which the change would have
involved; whilst the apartments were unsuitable for the purposes of the Sodety.
The Duke of York died before the building was completed. The Crown lease was
then sold to the first Duke of Sutherland, for 72,000/., subject to an annual ground-
rent of 758/. The mansion is entirely of hewn stone ; the north front in Stable-yard
has a Corinthian portico of eight columns, beneath which is the entrance. The garden-
fence is curiously made of slate.
The interior was planned by Barry, by whom were added the second and third
stories, the latter concealed by a balustrade. The grandest feature is the hall, or
tribune, and state-staircase, opening through all the stories, and lighted by a lant(.*rn
filled with engraved glass, and supported by eighteen palm-trees; the ceiling contains
Gnerdno's celebrated apotheosis of St. Grisogno ; and beside the fireplace are Murillo's
Prodigal Son's Return, and Abraham and the Angels, from the Soult Gallery. The
walls are imitative Giallo antico, divided by white marble Corinthian columns and
pilasters ; and in compartments are oupios, by Lorenzi, of Paul Veronese's colossal pic-
tures, llie whole interior strikingly reminded Dr. Waagen of many of the palaces of
Genoa : it is a square of 80 feet, ruvug in the centre to 120, the roof richly paint<Kl
and gilt, the fioor a sea of red and white marble ; and when lighted by scores of can-
delabra, the efiect is truly gorgeous. On the first landing is a marble statue of a Sibyl,
by RonaldL Thence two flights of stairs diverge upwards to a corridor, decorated with
MARKETS. 557
marble oolnmns and balustrades, round tbree sides of the hall ; the fourth being the
gallery, 120 feet lon^, with a fretted gold roof, and lighted by Roman candelabra iu
gilt-bronze; the walls are hung with paintings of the Italian, Flemish, Spanish, and
modem English schools.
Among the pictures in the ffaUeiy are, Vandyke's portrait of Thomas Howard, Earl of Arandel ;
Morone's portrait of a Jesait (Titian's Schoolmaster); Correggrio's Mule-driver, reputed to have been
painted for a tavem-sig^ ; Christ before Pilate, Honthorst's finest work, Arom the Lucca collection ;
Christ at Emmaus, bv Paul Veronese; Christ bearing his Cross, by Raphael; Don Francis Borgia
entering the Jesuits' Cfollege, several lire-size figures, by Velasquez; and three works of Zurbaran, tsam
the Soult collection ; Lord Strafford on his way to the Scaffold receiving Laud's blessing, by Uelorochei
and Winterhalter's portrait of the Duchess Dowager of Sutherland.
The other three sides consist of eight state-rooms : three towards the Green Park are
drawing-rooms hung with Gobelins tapestry, designed by Delaroche. Northward is the
great dining-room, 70 feet by 30 feet, where is a statue of Gkinymede, by Thorwaldsen ;
and on the third side are two saloons hung with a long series of paintings of the old
Italian schools above the bookshelves.
In tb&dining-room, on the ground-floor, are assembled all the portraits of the Orleans
Gallery ; the royal and historical personages duriilg the reign of Louis XIV., the Orleans
regency, the reign of Louis XV., and the happy part of the life of Louis XVI. and Marie
Antoinette. The adjoining rooms are dedicated solely to modem British art ; including
chef-d^ctworet of ReyuoldiE^ Lawrence, Opie, Wilkie^ Turner, Landseer, Callcott, &c;
busts by Chantrey, and elegant groups by Westmacott, senior and junior; and in her
Grace's drawing-room the chimney-piece supports are statues of her two lovely daughters,
exquisitely sculptured by the younger Westmacott. Other marble chimney-pieces are
adorned with small bronzes and elegant vessels, after the antique ; busts, and bas-relief.
Among the pietores on the ground-floor ore, Winterhalter's Scene from the Decameron; a River
Srene, by J. Van Goyen, his finest work ; St. Justina and St. Bufina, half-lengths, by MuriUo. veiy fine ;
the Marriage of St. Catherine^ by Bubens; Festival before the Flood (17 figures), by W. Etty, R. A. ;
Scene from the Ifyeeiator, by T. Stothud, BA.: the Breaklkst Table, by Wilkie. B.A.; Cassandra
foretelling Hector's Death, by B. B. Haydon ; the Passage of the Bed Sea by the Israelites, by F. Danbv,
A. R, A. : the Assuaging of the Waters, by John Martin ; Death of the Virgin, by Albert Durer { Head of a
Yuung Man, by Parmegiano : Lady Gower (now Duchess Dowager of Sutherland! and her Duighter (now
Duchess of Arsyle), by Sir Thomas Lawrence; the Day after the Battle of Chevy Chase, by E. Bird,
B. A. Also a orawmg, by Prince Albert, of his son, the Prinee of Wales ; and a hfe-siie bronxe statue
of the Marquis of Stafford, by Fencheres. Among the historio memorials is a bronze cast taken £rom
the ftce of Napoleon, after death.
The coUection of pictures can only be seen by spedal invitation or permiflsion of the
&mily.
ToKLurx'g (Mr. G.), No. 1, Carlton House-terracOi contains a few first-dass pictures ;
including the Pool of Bethesda, or Christ healing the Pftralytic, by MuriU<^ purchased
by Mr. Tomline from the Soult collection for 7500/. Here also is the picture of CThrist
and the Woman of Samaria, by Annibal Caracci; and the identical portrait of
Charles V., to paint which 'jntian journeyed to Bologna.
TJXBSIDOB HouBX (Marquis of Anglesey), Burlington Gardens, built by Joseph
Ilononu, in 1792, occupies the site of Queensbury House (Leonid architect^ 1726), where
died the poet Gay, December 4^ 1732.
MABKSTS.
FEW of the Market-buil^nga of the metropolis are of tasteful design, such as we are
accustomed to admire in the ancient and modem market-places of the Continent.
The early history and location of the London Markets, are, however, curious.
** Shall the large mutton smoke upon your boards P
8uoh Newmte's oopious market best affords.
Wouldst taou wish mighty heel augment thy meal P
See': Leadenhall ; St. James's sends thee veal ;
Thames-street gives eheeses Covent Garden fruits ;
MoorfleUs old books, and Monmouth-stioet old suits."
Gay's Trivia, book U.
BiLLivosOATB is described at pp. 64 and 66. It was once a landing-place for
other merchandise than fish : "1550. — ^There came a sheppe ot egges and shnrtes and
smockes oat ot France to Byllyngesgatte." {Orey JFWar«' Chron.)
558 CURIOSITIES OF LONDON.
BoBOUOH Mabkst, Soathwark, fbr provisioiis, oocopies the ate of a mennoa of the
fee of Rochester ; and the ground is held of the Bishop hj the parish of St. Savkmr, at
an annual rent of 141, 18«. 6<i.
CiABE Mabket, at the sonth-west angle of Linooln's-inn-fields, for batcilier's-nieat;
fish, and vegetables, was built by William Holies, Baron Houghton and Earl of Clare,
in Clement's-inn-fieldsi, about the year 1660, and was first called New 3£ark€L
The Citr and Lord Clsra had a long lawsuit eonoerninir this estats : the CItjyieldad; " and firam ihe
saccflM of thlt noble lord, thqr have got Mveral charten for the erecting of ceTeral oUier marketi noee
the jetr leoO: se that of St. James, by the Earl of 8t. Albana ; Bloomsborr, by the Earl of Sooifa-
ampton; Brook Market, by the Lord Brook; Hangerford Haiket; Newport Market; beaides tiie Hat-
market, New Charing Gross, and that at Petty Franoe at Westminster, with their Mayftir in the fam
behind PlooadUIy/'—lTari;. U8. 6900.
Here was a chapel for the use of the butchers, whither Orator Henlej reDHn'ed
from Newport Market, and preached in a tub covered with velvet and gold ; the altar
being inscribed " The Primitive Eucharist." Henley, " preacher at onoe, and xanj of
the Age," lectured '* at the Oratory " upon theology, " skits of the fiuihion;," *''tbe
bean monde from before Noah's flood," and ''bobs at the times/' but straying into
sedition, he was cited before the Privy Coundl, who dismissed him as an impudent
fellow. He lectured here for nearly 20 years ; the admisaon was 1m^ and he had
medals struck as tickets. In Gibbon's-oourt, Clare Market, was a theatre, where
Killigrew's company performed some time. " Nov. 20, 1660. — Mr. Shepley and I to
the new playhouse near Lincoln's-inn-fields (which was formerly Gibbon's Tennis-
court) where the play of ' Beggar's Bush ' was newly begun : . . it is the finest play-
house, I believe, that ever was in England." {Pepys.) Its remains were long used
as a carpenter's shop, slaughter-houses, Ac. Clare Market lying between the two great
theatres, its butchers were the arbiters of the galleries, the leaders of theatrical rows,
the musicians at actresses' marriages, the chief mourners at players' funerals. In and
around the Market were the signs of the Sun; Bull ai^- Butcher, afterwards S^iUer'i
Head ; The Orange; The BulPe Nead, where met the " Shepherd and his Flock
Club," and where Dr. Badclifie was carousing when he recdved the news of the loss of
his 5000Z. venture. Hogarth, when an apprentice, was here an early boon oompanion of
Joe Miller. Next is the Black Jack, in Portsmouth-street, the haunt of Joe Miller,
the comedian, and where he uttered his time-honoured "jests ;" the house remains, but
the sign has disappeared. Miller died in 1738, and was buried in St. Clement's npper
ground, in Porttigal-street, where his grave-stone was inscribed with the following
epitaph, written by Stephen Duck : " Here lie the remains of honest Joe Miller, who
was a tender husband, a sincere £riend, a facetious companion, and an excellent oome*
dian. He departed this life, the 15th day of Aug^ist, 1738, aged 64 years.
** If humour, wit, and honosty could save
The humourous, witty, honesty ttom the grave.
This graye had not so soon its tenant found.
With honesty, and wit, and humour crown'd.
Or could esteem snd love preserve our health.
And guard us longer firom the stroke of Death,
The stroke of Death on him had later flail.
Whom all mankind esteem'd and loved so weHl."
The stone was restored by the parish grave-digger at the dose of the last century ;
and in 1816 a new stone was set up by Mr. Jarvis Buck, churchwarden^ who added
" S. Duck" to the epitaph. At the Black Jack (also called the Jump), a dub known
as "the Honourable Society of Jackers" met until 1816. (See '* Jo: Miller, a bipgraphv,"
by W. H. Wills, prefixed to The FamUy Jo: MiUer, 1848.)
Clare Market, which had long been one of the poorest an4 most squalid ndghbourhoods in the me-
tropolis, has of late years been greatly improved by the establishment of a Mission, with a chi^l in tbs
centre ; also, an orphan refuge, a needlewoman's home, a working man's dub, soup-kitehoi, Bible-dass,
J»., to all which the recipients themselves contribute.
Colombia Mabxxt, Bethnal (>reen (Darbishire, architect), has been built at the odst
of Miss Burdett Coutts, for providing good supplies, with great attention to cleanlinmi
and sanitary regulation; the shops surrounding the market to be let for various trades.
The design is old English, and the plan quadrangpilar, of fine brick and stone^ and
terra-cotta ; in a lofty central tower is the machinery for the water supply. Altogether
this is the most picturesque market-place in the metropolis.
MARKETS. 659
CoBK Maskbt, Mark-Ume. (^SSm Cobn Exchaitg^ p. S29.)
CovEHT-GAXDEir Maxkxt was efltablubed towarcU the end of Charles II.'s reign
(see p. 293), on the site of the garden of the Convent at Westminster ; and in
Chamberhiyne's Notitia, 1726, it is printed Convent Garden. Strype describes it, in
1698, as held for fruits, herbs, roots, and flowers, "beneath a small grotto of trees," on
Tuesdays, Thursdays, and Saturdays, the present market-days. In 1704, wlien Tavi*
stock-row was built, the market-people were compelled to assemble in the square, and
here their stalls increased to dwellings.
Steele (Tailsr^ Ko. 4H <Aag. 11, 1712), In his bost-Torage from Biehmond, "soon foil in with a fleet
of i^rdenen, bound for the several market-ports of London. , . . Itwasveryeasy to observe by their
sailing, and the coantenances of the ruddy virgins who were supercargoes, the part of the town to whidi
they were boimd. There was an air in the purveyors for Covent Garden, who nreqneatly converse with
morning rakes. TeiT unlike the seeming sobriety of those bound for Stociu Market. . . . Handed,
with ten sail of aprioot boats, at Strand Bridge, after having put in at Nine Elms and taken in melons,
«onngned 1^ Mr. Cuflfe^ of that place, to Sarah Sewell and Co., at their stall in Covent Garden."
Still the market was a strange assemblage of shed and penthouse, rude stall, and
crazy tenement, coffee-house and g^n-shop, intersected by narrow and ill-lit footways
nntil the site was cleared for a new market in 1829. The present market-buildings
were designed by Fowler, and are perfectly fitted for their various uses ; evince con-
siderable aichitectnral skill, and are so characteristic of the purpose for which the
market has been erected, that it cannot be mistaken for anything else but what it is ;
unless the inscription, " John Dukb op Bkdtosd, erected icdgocxxz.," over the east
end, lead posterity to regard this as a patriotic act ; whereas the Bedford family derive
a large rental from the market* stated at 5000^. per annum. The area is 8 acres. The
rent of some of the shops is from 400Z. to 5002. per annum.
The plan consists of a quadrangle, with two exterior colonnades on the north and
south sides, in front of shops; and in the central building an avenue open to the
roof, with shops on each side for forced articles, the choice fruits, vegetables, &c At
the east end is a quadruple colonnade, with a terrace over, and two large conserva-
tories, a roofed fbnntain of Devonshire marble, and an emblematical group of figures
on the pe^ment of a screen between the conservatories. At the west end is a colon*
nade, and below is the iron-roofed Flower Market. There are store-cellars almost
thronghont the area; and water is supplied firom an Artesian well sunk beneath the
central path, 280 feet deep, and affording 1600 gallons per hour, distribated throughout
the maricet by a steam-engine.
The supplies of fruit and vegetables sent to this market, in variety, excellence, and
quantity, surpass those of all other countries. There is more certainty of being able
to purchase a pine-apple here, every day in the year, than in Jamaica and Calcutta,
where pines are indigenous. Forced asparagus, potatoes, sea-kale, rhubarb-stalks,
mnslirooros, French beans, and early encumbers, are to be had in January and
Febmary ; in March, forced cherries, strawberries, and spring spinach ; in April, (frapes,
peaches, and melons, with early peas; in May, all forced articles in abundance. The
supply of forced flowers, of greenhouse plants, and in summer of hardy flowers and
shrubs, is equally varied and abundant ; and of curious herbs for domestic medicines,
distilleries, &c, upwards of 500 species may be procured at the shop of one herbalist.
From distsat counties sre sent up the prodoots of acres of tomip-tops, cabbazes. and peas : while
hundreds of acres in Cornwall and Devon grow early potatoes, broccoli, peas, ftc., which reach London
by railway. Green peas have been sold here at Christmas at tl. the quui, and asparagus and rhubarb
at 15s. the bundle. Teaches are sold at 60t. a doxen, and cherries at 40s. a poand.
The for^gn green-fruit trade of Covent Garden is very extensive in pine-apples,
melons, cherries, apples and pears. The cheap West India pine-apple trade dates from
181-1, when pines were first cried in the streets " a penny a slice."
Fabbivodon Mabkbt, between the west end of Shoe-lane and Farringdon-strcct,
covers 1) acres of ground, and was built by William Montague, the City architect ; it
was opened in 1829, on the removal of Fleet Market. It is well placed for drainage,
parallel with Holbom-hill ; the site and buildings (including a clock-tower of Italian
design) cost about 250,000/. ; but the Market is littie frequented.
Httkobbvobd Mabkvt, West Strand, occupied the site of a market-place built in
1680 by Sir Edward Hungerford, from his town-house and grounds, extending to the
560 cuBiosirnjs of london.
Thames. In 1685, Sir Stephen Fox and Sir Christopher TTren were proprietori of
the market-estate ; in the centre was a lofty hall, with a bust of one of the Hangvr*
fords, and an inscription stating the market-place to have been erected " uiilitcH
publieai" bat Strype, in 1720, describes it as " baulk'd at first," and tnmed to litde
account. The old hall and a colonnade remained until 1830, when premises adapted
ftom a Roman market, were commenced for a company by Fowler, arcliitect of Covent
Garden Market. The lower quadrangle was the fish-market, and the upper for Tege-
tables, fruit, meat» &c. The market was publicly opened July 2, 1833 ; bat proved
alike unprofitable with the original Hungerford scheme. The market-place htt been
removed for the Charing Cross Railway Terminus and Hotel.
LEia>SKHALL Mabxxt, Graoechurch-street, is the great poultry and game market^
where 4,000,000 birds, &c,, have been sold in one year. In 1533 the beef sold here
was not to exceed a halfpenny a pound, and mutton a halfpenny half-farthin^^.
In Kvere winters here are large rappliei of wild dacks. principallj ftom Holland ; woodooeka, Jbc;
snipes f^om Irelaud ; pigeons firom France ; rabbits fh)m Ostend; blackcocks ftt>m Scotland. *" Some-
times, after a grand battue, there is a glut of hues and pheasants in Leadenhall Market." (MaeemUoek.)
The retams for pooltry, game, and rabbits in one year eqoal half a million of money. A few yean sinee
Ostend rabbits were hardly saleable in London; now, fh>m 60 to 100 tons are imported weekly by
steamers, and 1000 persons are employed in this rabbit trade. Ou Christmas Ere here are displayed
100,000 geese and turkeys, includins importations fh)m France, Belgium, Holland, and Ireland. Here,
also, is a market for live «tn»wi*l«^ — ^&ncy dogs and rabbits, cage-birds, Ac
Mbtbofolitav Cattlb Mabket, the, erected to supply the place of Smithfield,
where the last market was held June 11, 1855, occupies 75 acres of ground. The
Harket-plaoe is an irregular quadrangle, with a lofty dock-tower in the centre, and
four taverns at the four comers ; the open area being set off into divianons for the
different kinds of live stock. No less than 400,000/. have been expended npcm the
land and buildings. In the parts of the market appropriated for the reception of the
different cattle, each central rail is decorated with characteristic casts of heads of oxen,
sheep, pigs, &c. : these were designed and modelled by Bell, the sculptor. The open
space of the market will accommodate at one time about 7000 cattle and 42;000 sheep,
with a proportionate number of calves and pigs. The calf and pig-markets are covered,
the roofs biaing supported by iron columns, which act at the same time as water-drslns.
In the centre of the whole area is a twelve>sided structure, called " Bank Buildingsi,''
surmounted by an elegant campanile, or bell-tower. The twelve sides give entrance to
twelve sets of offices occupied by bankers, salesmen, railway companies, and electric
telegraph companies.
In one year, 1862, the returns have been 304,741 bullocks, 1,498,500 sheep^ 27,951
calves, and 29,470 pigs. The great Christmas sale in the closing year of old Smithfield
ranged from 6000 to 7000 bullocks, and between 20,000 and* 25,000 sheep. On
December 15, 1862, the bullocks were 8340, being a greater number than ever before
known at any metropolitan market. The marketKlays for cattle, sheep, and pig^ are
Mondays and Thursdays; there is a miscellaneous market for horsep* assei^ and goats
on Fridays.
Newgatb Maskst, between Paternoster-row and Newgate-street, was formerly
kept in the latter street, and was a market for meal. "1548. Thisyere before
Alhalloutyd was sett up the howse for the roarkyt folke in Newgate Market for to
waye meUe in." (Orey Frian^ ChronJ) It is now the great Meat Market. Upon
the site of the old College of Physicians, Warwick -lane, is held another meat market.
Butcher-Hall-lane (now King Edward-street), Newgate-street, was originallr named from the great
number of buichtrt living here; and there is extant a petition to Parliament, dated 1380, praying that
they might be restrained ft-om throwing the blood and entrails of slaughtered animals into the liver
Fleet, and that they might be compelled to *' kill" at " Knyghtsbrigg," or elsewhere out of London ; and
this seems to have been done for several reigns.
The City poulterers were strictly prohibited iVom standing for sale at the Carfeux of Leadenhall, a
i»Iaco with " four fhces," which was expressly reserved for forei|j:ners ; and were compelled, under pain of
brfcdtore, to stand towards the west of the church of St. Michael, on Coruhill. Similar regiilati<ms
were in force at Newgate Market, the object being to prevent " denixens" ftom meddling with the
foreigners in sale or purchase. Foreigners were prohibited from carrying their poultry to the bmisrs of
denizen poulterers, or lodging in their houses, and were liable to forfeiture and immiionmeDt if tbey
did not go direct to the market. Any poulterer who sold above the price hxed bv the rmlations n-aii*
liable to penalties; and anv person who bought above the price was liable to Ibrfelt what oe so bcught,
and to be further ponished by the local authorities.
MARK-LANS. 561
Newport Mabki;t, Soho, named from the town-house of the Earl of NewpoH in
the neighbourhood, is a meat*markot, with its butchers, slaughtermen, and drovers.
Here Chutor Henley held his mock preaching. The father of John Home Tooke was
a poulterer in Newport market, — as he told his schoolfellows, ** a Turkey merchant."
OiCFOBD Mabket, north of Oxford-street, was built for Edward, Earl of Oxford, in
1731. Barry, the painter, who lived in Castle-street, describes it ironically as " the
most classic London market — ^that of Oxford."
Skithfixid, or West Smithfield (so called to distinguish it from East Snuthfield,
eost of Tower-hill), was the only *' live " market, and the oldest in the metropolis.
The name signifies a smooth plain ; *' smith " being corrupted from the Saxon $meih,
smooth. Fitzstephen calk it " a certain plain field {planus campus), both in reality
and name, situated without one of the City gates, even in the very suburbs :" horses
and cattle were sold here in 1150, horse-racing was common, and the horse-market was
to our day called " Smithfield races." The original extent of Smithfield was about
three acres ; the market-place was paved, drained, and railed in, 1685 ; subsequently
enlarged to 4^ acres, and since 1834 to 6} acres. Yet this enlargement proved dis-
proportionate to the requirements : in 1731 there were only 8304 head of cattle sold in
Smithfield ; in 1846, 210,757 head of cattle, and 1,518,510 sheep. The old City laws
for its regulation were called the ** Statutes of Smithfield." Here might be shown
4000 beasts and about 30,000 sheep, the latter in 1509 pens : and there were 50 pens
fqr pigs. Altogether Smithfield was the largest live market in the world, and its sales
amounted to 7,000,0002. annually. It is thus sketched by Charles Dickens :—
" It was market morning. The ground was covered nearlv ankle-deop with filth and mire ; and a thick
•team perpetnally rising from the reeking bodies of the cattie, and mingling with the tog, which seemed
to rest npon the chimney-topa, hung heavilv above. Ail the pens in the centre of the lai^ area, and as
many temporary ones as eoiud be crowded into the vacant space, were filled with sheep; and tied up to
posts bj the gqtter-side were long lines of beasts and dken three or four deep. Coontr^men,
d'
Deasts, tne Dieanng or sneep, and fnmnting and squeaking ox pigs ; tne cries or nawsers, me snonis,
oaths, and quarrelling on all sides, the rinsing of bells, and the roar of voices that issued from every
public-house; the crowding, pushing, ^ving, beating, whooping, and yelling: the hideous and discor-
dant din that resounded from every comer of the market; and tne unwashed, unshaven, squalid, and
dirty figures constantly running to and fro, and bursting in and out of the throng, rendered it a stunning
and bewildering scene which quite confttsed the senses."— Otto«r Twi§L
The market, with its attendant nuisances of knackers' yards, tunted-sausage makers,
slaughter-houses, tripe-dressers^ cat* s-meat boilers, catgut-spinners, bone-hoases, and
other noxious trades, in the very heart of London, was, however, in 1852, condemned
by law to be removed into Copenhagen Fields, Islington.
The posts and rails of the old cattle pens were turned into printing materials, rejjlet
chiefly. Upon the site of Smithfield and additional g^und, is to be erected a Meat
and Poultry Market^ of elegant desigpa.
Stocks Mabkst, for fish and flesh, was established in 1282, on the site of the
present Mansion House, and was named from a pair of stocks placed there for punish-
ing offenders. In the reign of Edward II. it was decreed one of the City Flesh and
Fish Markets. After the Great Fire it became a fine market for fruit, roots, and
herbs, ** surpasang all the other fruit-markets in London '* (Strype) : *' where is such
a garden in Europe as the Stocks Market ?*' (ShadweU, 1689). At the north end
was the Conduit ; and the equestrian statue of John Sobieski, set up by Sir Eobert
Viner, with a new head, as Charles II. The market was removed for the Mansion
House site in 1770» A few dealers in costly fruit kept shops hard by until our time.
MABK'LANS,
BETWEEN Fenchurch-street and Qreat Tower-street, is now the site of our great
Metropolitan Com Market, which originated as follows. There exists a token—
*' Joseph Taylor, in Blanch Appleton-court, at the end of Marke-lane," — referring us to a
spot which now, amid modem alterations and improvements, is somewhat difficult to
trace. There is no mention of it in the list of streets, courts, &c., in the dty of London*
published in 1722 ; nor is it in Maitland's list or plans (edit. 1756), although it is men-
tioned in the text (p. 778) as being " a large open square place with a passage ibr carts»
o o
562 CUBIOSITIES OF LONDON.
and oormptly called Blind ChapeUooort." It appcan from Stow that the north-^sst
corner of Mark-lane (now ooenpied hy the premises of Sharp and Son, tea-dealers), was»
AS far hack as 13 Edward I., the nte of a manor-hoose called Blanch Appleton ; and
that a lane at the hack of it was granted hy the king to he endoeed and diut npL
Attached to the manor was the privilege of holding a market, or mart, bnt of which»
Stow ohserves, " nothing remaineth for memory bnt the name of Mart-lane, and that
oormptly termed Marke-lane." In the reign of Richard II. the manor was poaacmcd
hy Sir Thomas Roos. Stow Airther informs ns, that in 3 Edward lY., ** all basket-
makers, wyer-drawers, and other forrainers, were permitted to have shops in this mannoar
of Blanch Appleton, and not elsewhere in this dtie, or snbnrhs thereofl" Ii» a oommc-
nication to the Society of Antiqnaries from Mr. T. Lott» relating to the arrangements
made hy the city of London for the fiineral prooesnon of the hody of Elizabeth, Qneea
of Henry VII., some cnrioos particulars are given concerning this place, together with
the amoant in which the city assessed its inhabitants towards the expense of the pro-
cession, &e. Mr. Lott states that this district, which appears to luive been a sort of
sanctuary for non-freemen, is to this day called in the City Chamberlain's books the
** Blanch Appleton lands." Milton's friend, Cyriac Skinner, was a merchant in thU
lace ; and here Dr. Isaac Watts was minister of a Dissenters' meeting house.
MASTIirS (ST.), LANE,
EXTENDING northward from Charing Cross and the east nde of Traf algai^sqiiai^
to the junction of Long Acre with Cranhonm-street, appears in Aggas's pbtii
(early in Elizabeth's reign) as a green lane, with only a few houses beyond St. Martin's
Church, abuttiilg into Covent Garden, which extended into Drury-lane. St. Martin's-
lane was mostly built about 1613, and was first named "West Chnrch-lane." A
few of the houses are spacious and have noble staircases, those on the west side bang
the larg^t ; some exteriors on the east side are good spedmens of bridcwork. Among
the early tenants was Sir Theodore Mayeme, physician to James L ; Daniel Myten^
the painter; Sir John Suckling, the poet. 'Sir Hugh Plstt, the most ingeniooa hus-
bandman of his age, had a garden in St. Martin's-lane in 1606. Howell sends a
maiden copy of his poem " to Sir Eenelm Digby, at his house in St. Martin's-lane,*
in 1641. (Familiar Letters, 5th edit. 1678, p. 393.) Here also lived the great Eaii
of Shaftesbury ; Dr. Tenison, when vicar of St. Martin's ; and Ambrose Philips, tbs
Whig poet. Here too dwelt, nearly opposite May's-buildings, Sir Joshua Reynokfa^
when he first came to London ; Sir James ThomhiU, who, at the back of bis iMXiae^
established an artists' school, from which arose the Royal Academy ; Roubiliac, who
commenced practice in St. Peter's-oourt, a favourite haunt of artists; Fuseli, at Nol
100 (first floor and staircase good). Old Slaughter's Coffee-house was once the great
evening resort of artists, and Hogarth was a constant visitor. At No. 101 was built
and exhibited the ApoUonioon. No. 112 was the picture premises of Mr. Samuel
Woodbum, the eminent English dealer in art, who died in 1853, leaving a valuable
collection of the Italian, German, and Flemish did masters : among the English pictures
was Hogarth's Midnight Modem Conversation, painted for Rich, of Covent Garden
Theatre. No. 31 has a classically decorated exterior, in the style of Inigo Jones, and
is engpraved in Hakewell's Architecture of the Seventeenth Centwy, 1853. The first
floor has an enriched cdling.
A labyrinth of courts and alleys about St. Martin's church was removed in 1829
including the Bermudas, Caribbee or Cribbe Islands; and Porridge Island, noted ibr
its cook-shops. Another knot, on the west side of St. Martin's-lane, was cleared away
for Trafalgar-square, including Duke's-court. Hereabout Sir Christopher Wren, in
conjunction with his friend^ John Evelyn, in 1685, arranged the building of Archbishop
Tcnifion's Library.
JCIBTIN*S (ST.) LE GRAND.
A COLLEGE founded by Withred King of Kent, in 700, and rebuilt and endowed
about 1056 by the Saxon brothers lugelric and Girard, was dedicated to St.
Martin, to which was added le Grand, from its privileges, granted by monaxchs who
MABYLEBONE. S63
occasionally resided here. The church and coUegiate bnildiDgs covered the insalated
ground now oocapied by the Gtonerad Post-Office ; and the Sutherland View, 1543, shows
the lofty spire and tower, wherein curfew was rung. Among the deans was William
of Wykeham, who rebuilt the church : the advowsons were given by Henry VL to
the Abbots of Westminster. St. Martin's-le-Orand was a noted sanctuary ; and after
the demolition of the College, the fdte was built upon and occupied by non-freemen»
to avoid the City jurisdiction. French, Germans, Dutch, and Scotch abounded here ;
their trades being shoemaker^, tailors, makers of buttons and button-moulds, gold-
smiths, Ac } and here are said to have &rst settled in England silk-tbrowsters. Among
its counterfeit finery was the copper ** St. Martin's-lace." Each trade had its quarter ;
hence Mould-maker's-row, removed in our time; and Shoemaker's-row, now the west
ade of St. Martin's-le-Grand ; while Dean's, Bell, and Angel alleys denote the old
ecdenastieal locality. In 1828, when the nte was cleared for the Poet-Office, a ciypt
by William of Wykeham was destroyed. (See Crypts, page 303.) Lower down
were found remains of the Roman tinges : coins, beads, glass, and pottery ; amphora^
Samian ware, ftmend urns, lachrymatories, &o. : denoting this to have been an im-
portant site of Roman London. {See Kempe's 8L Martin'e-le'Orand.)
Amon^the dlrtinfRiisbed reddents of iUdengate-street, in a line with St Martin's-le-Orand, was
Mr., afterwards Sir wilUam, Wataon ; at whose noose, in 1748, were exhibited the efTecte of the Leyden
phials, then newly invented; and here the Dnke of Cnmberland, recently retomed from Scotland, took
the shock with the point of the iword with which he had fooght the battle of Colloden.— JA« Oold-
\4ad0d Gmm, p. 116.
In Bt. Martin's-Ie-Grand was the Taborer'i Jitfi, of the time of Edward 11.; and the Oovn Tavem,
at the end of Dnok-lane, which, in 1700, had a noble room painted with classical salnects. Between
Aldttigate and St. Anne's-lane end, was the Mourning Bu$k, the owner having painted black his carved
sign (a bush), after the beheading of Charles I. : its vaulted cellars, with regular courses of Boman
bnck, form the foundation of the present JViNs Fo$t-qfflc% Gtt^te Bouu, A4|oining theee massive re-
mains rans a p<vtioa of the City wall.
IfABTLEBONE,
A MANOR of the hundred of Ossulton, in Middlesex, and the largest parish of
London (more than twice the extent of the City, and population greater), was, at
the commencement of the last century, a small village about a mile N.W. from the
nearest part of the metropolis. It was originally ctdled Tyburn, or Tyboume, from
its being on the hotimet or brook, which runs fhnn Hampstead into the Thames ; and
its church being dedicated to St. Mary, the parish was named St. Mary-at-the-boume,
Mary-le-bone, or Marybone. In a record of Henry VIII. it is called Tybome, aliaa
Marybome, slias Maryboume (Lyeant), It extends northward to Primrose Hill, west
to Kilbum turnpike, and south to Oxford-street, inclusive : it is 8^ miles in circum-
ference, and contains about 1700 acres of land; of which, till about 1760, two-thirds
were chiefly pasture-fields.
The Manor of Tyboom, valued at 62 shillings in Domesday book, and in King
Edward's time at 100 shillings, was exchanged by the then lord, in 1544, with Henry
VIII. for certain church lands; it was leased by Queen Elizabeth, in 1583 and 1595,
at the yearly rent of 16^. 11«. 8<i. ; in 1611 it was sojd by .James I. (excepting the
park) for 829/. 3«. 4<2. ; in 1710 it was sold for 17,500/., the rental heang then 900/.
per annum ; and about 1818 the manor passed from the second Duke of Portland to
the Crown, by an exchangee of land valued at 40,000/. The manor-hous^ a large
gabled building, not unpictnresqne, was taken down in 1791.
MaryMnme Park was a hunting-ground in the rogn of Queen Elizabeth : in 160O
the ambassadors from Rnana and their retinne rode through the City to hunt in
Marylebone Park ; and here Sir Charles Blount (afterwards Earl of Devonshire), one
of the challengers in the Field of Cloth-of-Gold, had a tilt with the Earl of Essex, and
wounded him. The park, reserved by James I., was assigned by Charles I. as a
security for debt ; but was sold by Cromwell fbr 13,215/L 6», Sd^ indnding deer, and
timber, except that marked ibr the navy. At the Restoration the park was re-assigned,
till the debt was discharged. The site had been previously disparked, and was never
afterwards stocked ; but was let on leases, upon the expiry of whidi the ground was
relaid oat» by Nash, and named Regent's Park.
0 0 2
564 CURIOSITIES OF LONDON.
BowUng-^ent were also among the oelobrities of Marylebone; where, nya the
grare John Locke {Diary, 1679), a coriooa stranger " may see seyeral persons of quality
bowling, two or three times a week, all the summer." The bowling-green of the
Bo9e Tavern and gaming-honse in High-street is referred to in Lady Mary Wortley
Montague's memorable line {jtee p. 8) ; and it is one of the scenes of Capt. Macheath's
debaucheries, in Gay's Beggartt Opera, This and an adjoining bowling-green were
incorporated in Marylebone Cktrdene, open g^tis to all classes ; but the company be-
coming more select, one shilling entrance-money was charged, an equivalent being
allowed in viands. Here were g^ven balls and concerts ; Handel's music was played,
under Dr. Ame's direction, followed by fireworks, and in 1772^ a model picture of
Mount Etna in eruption. Burlettas after Shakspeare were recited in the theatre
here in 1774; and in 1776 was exhibited a representation of the Boulevards at Paris,
Egyptian Pyramids^ &c, : the gardens were suppressed in 1777-6, and the site built
upon.
A deed of assignment made by Thomse Lowe, the shiffer, conTejing hie proptartv in MaxT^ebosie
Gardens, to tnuteea, for the benefit of hia creditors, in 1789, was in the posseesion of the late Mr. Samp-
eon ndgkinson, who was fiuniliar with the parochiiil history of Manrlebone. From tiiis deed we learn
that the premises of Bysbraeck, the statuary, were formerly part of the Oreai (Mazylebone) €f«rdau
(See Smith's St, MargUbmu, 1833.)
The orcliestra of the Gardens stood upon the nte of No. 17, Devonshire-place^ nearly
opposite the old church described at pag^ 188.
Chalterton wrote a bnrletta, entitled Tk4 Rmengt, to be performed at Marylebone Osidens ; and that
fortunate collector, Mr. Upcott, then librarian of the London Institation, found upon the counter of a
cheesemonger's shop in the City, the above drama, in the handwriting of Chatterton, with hia receipt
iriven to Hcnslow, the proprietor of the Gardens, for the oopy-mon^ paid for the piece. It was pub-
lished by Tom King, the bookseller and book-auctioneer; but its authenticity was donbted.
JPrixe-flghting was a pastime of this period, and Marylebone a place at which *' to
learn valour" {Beggan^ Opera), Here was the boarded house of Figg, "the Atlas
of the Sword," whose portrait is in the second plate of Hogarth's Hake's Progress.
Near Figg's was Broughton's Amphitheatre, often crowded with amateurs of high
rank. In the Evening Poet, Mardi 16, 1715 we find : '* On Wednesday last, four
gentlemen were robbed and stripped in the fields between London and Mary-le-bon."
Between 1718 and 1729 was built the north side of Tyburn-road, now Oxford-street ;
and the squares and streets northward were then commenced: still, much of tlie
ground between the new buildings and the village of Marylebone was pasture-fields ;
and Maitland, in his History of London, 1739, states there to have been then only
577 houses in the parish, and 35 persons who kept coaches. In 1795 there were 6200
houses; in 1861, houses 16,370.
In 1841 the Vestry of St. Marylebone aoeepted toidera from certain oontraotors to the amount of
41S0^. for permission to cart away the aahes (breeze) flrom the several houses in this vast pariah.
Marylebone is a parliamentary borough, containing the three parishes of St. Maryle-
bone, Paddington, and St. Pancras. (See Chuschss, St. Marylebone, p. 183.) In
the Parish Register is the following entry : " Georgiana Augusta Ftederica Elliott,
daughter of H.R.H. George, Prince of Wales, and Grace Elliott; bom 30 March, and
baptized 30 July, 1782.'
»»
MAT FAIB,
npHE district north of Piccadilly, and between Park-lane and Berkeley-square, was
•1- originally Brookfield ; but received its present name from a fair being held there
by grant of James II., after the suppression of St. James's Fair, to commence on
May 1, and continue fifteen days; where multitudes of the booths were " not for trade
and merchandize, but for musick, showes, drinking, gaming, raffling, lotteries, stage-
plays, and drolls." It was frequented "by all the nobility in town;" but was sup-
pressed in 1708, when the downfall of May Fair quite sunk the price of Pinkethman's
tame elephant, and sent his ingenious company of strollers to Greenwich. {See
Tatier, Nos. 4 and 20). The Fair was, however, revived ; and John Carter describes
its ** booths for jugglers; prize-fighters, both at cudgels and back-sword; boxing-
matches, and wild beasts. The sports not under cover were mountebanks^ fire-eaters,
OSS-racing, sausage-tables, dice ditto^ up-and-downs, merry-go-roimds^ bull-baiting.
MEWS, ROYAL. 565
grinniiig for a hat, nmning for a shift, hasty-pudding-eaters, eel-diver8>" &c. The site
ai the Fair is now occupied by Hertford-street, Corzon-street, Shepherd's Market,
&c ; but the old wooden pablic-honse, The Dog and Duck, with its willow-shaded
pond for dnck-hnnting, is remembered : at fair-time, the second story of the market-
IioQse was let for the playhouse. The Fair was not finally abolished until late in the
reign of G^eorge III. In Curzon-street was " the Rev. Alexander Keith's Chapel,"
with an entrance like a country church-porch, where marriages at a minute's notice
were almost as notorious as at the Fleet — 6000 in one year. Keith's charge was one
guinea, with a licence on a five-shilling stamp and certificate. The chapel was much
frequented during May Fair : here the Duke of Kingston was married to Miss Chud-
lexgh ; the Baroness Clinton to the Hon. Mr. Shirley ; and James, foiirth Duke of
Hamilton, in 1752, to the youngest of the two beautiful Miss Gunnings, with a bed-
curtain ring, half an hour after midnight. The registers of the May-Fair marriages,
in three folio volumes, closely and clearly written, are kept with the parish -books of
St. George's, Hanover-square. A minute description of the above district, entitled,
"The Fur of May Fair," will be found in Walks and Talks about London; and in
London Society^ No. 24, with an engraving of the Fair one hundred years ago, from
an origmal drawing.
MEW8, SOTAL.
UPON the nte of the National Gallery, on the north side of Charing Cross, when
fiilconry was a royal pastime, were kept the King's hawks, in a building called
the Mews. In 1S19 (13 Edward II.) John De la Becke had the custody of the King's
Mews ("de mutis apud Charryng juxta Westmonasterium*'), Ii^ the reign of
Bichard II., Sir Simon Burley was Keeper of the King's Falcons; and Chaucer was
Clerk of the King's Works, and of the Mews at Charing. In 1534, the royal stables
at Lomsbery (since Bloomsbury) were burnt; after which the hawks were removed
from Charing Cross, and the premises rebuilt for, the stabling of the King's horses, in
the reigns of Edward V I. and Queen Mary ; the building retiUning the name of
Mews, and public stables assuming the same. Here Colonel Joyce was imprisoned by
order of Oliver Cromwell ; being carried away by musqueteers and put into the Dutch
prison, and removed thence to another chamber in the Mews. It was a gamblers' re-
sort : Gay, in his Trivia, says of " careful observers" :
** Untempted, thqr contemn the Jonler's feats.
Pass by the Mease, nor try the tbimble's ebeats.**
In 1782 the fii9ade was rebuilt from the design of Kent, with three stone cnpolas.
Mac Owen Swiney was made Keeper of the Mews ; he had been manager of Dniry
Lane and the Queen's Theatres, and died in 1754, leaving his fortune to Peg Woi-
fing^n. At the Mews were kept the royal stud, the ^It state-coach, and the other
royal carriages, until their removal to the new Mews at Pimlico, in 1824. The build-
ing at Charing Cross was occupied, in 1828, as the exhibition-rooms of the National
Bepository, and by Cross' Menagerie from Exeter Change ; and here was temporarily
housed a portion of the Public Beoords. The premises were taken down in 1830, for
the site of the National Gbllery. The last of the original Mews was occupied as a
barrack : it was built of red Tudor brick, with buttresses, and crenellated ; stone
window-cases and dressings.
At the Mewe-gate lived for more than fortr years "honeet Tom Pajne" (d. 1799), the bookseller;
whose little shop, in the shape of an L, was the first named a literaiy ooffee-house, from its knot of
litcraiy frequenters.
Thb Qttbek'b Mbwb, at the rear of Buckingham Palace, Queen's-row, Pimlico,
was built in 1824, and consists of two quadrangles, entered by a Doric archway beneath
a clock-tower. Viators are admitted by a ticket from the Master of the Horse. In
the first quadrangle are the coach-houses, and in the second the horses. Here are
usually forty carriages, besides Her Majesty's state-coach : the dress-carriages are fine
spedmens of coach-building. The horses include road-teams, saddle-horses, and hacks;
and the dun and black Hanoverian state-horses (generally from twelve to fourteen
of each) for the state-coach ; and here are usually kept the foreign horses presented to
the sovereign. In the harness-room is the red morocco state-harness for eight horses^
666 CURIOSITIES OF LONDON.
with mafldve silver-gilt ftiniitare, the harness for each horse weighing 1 cwt. ;
the purple moroooo state-harness made when George IV. was Regent.
Th$ JTmd* Cloek has ttone dials (6 feet 10 inches in diameter), with the finree sank (as in the Efryp-
tian monoments), and a sank centre for the hoai-hand to travene^ so as to bring the minate-haad dose
to the fiffDtrei, and thus avoid nearly all error from parallax— an improrement by YuHiaov.
T%« Bidinff-Sotm belonged to BotAlngham House : here, in 1771, were pnblioly exhibited the
Queen's elephants, from one of which Lindl^ Miuray, the grammarian, had a narrow esc^ie.
RoYiii Mews, Prinde's-street, Westminster, was bailt by Decimns Burton, for stables
to the House of Commons, upon a space formerly occupied by a nursery of 200 trees,
planted upon the site of the markets and narrow streets on the north side of West-
minster Abbey, and removed between 1804 and 1808. Here was kept the Speakei^s
State Coach (See State Coaches). In 1854^ the Mews was taken down, and upon
its foundations was built the present Stationery Office, by Pennethome ; the old office
Lord Milford's hoose, being taken down, and the site added to Birdcage Walk, in 1855.
MINORTES, THE,
LEADING from Aldgate High-street to Tower-hill, is named from the " Sororea
Minores," '* Minoresses," or nuns of the order of St. Clare, founded 1293, whose
convent stood in this street : upon its site on the east side, is built the choich of the
Holy Trinity. The parish was formerly the convent dose^ and is without the walls of
London, although in the Liberty of the Tower of London ; therefore its inhabitants
have no vote in the Common CoundL In Haydon-square is a spring of pure water,
which was the convent fountain ; and here lived Sir Isaac Newton when warden and
master-worker of the Mint : the house was taken down in 1862. On May 2^ 1853,
during excavations on the west side of Haydon-square, was found a stone saroophagua
of the late Roman period, sculptured with a basket of fruit, a medallic bust, and foliage^
and containing a leaden coffin with the remains of a child : the sarcophagus is now
in the British Museum. In the Minories neighbourhood have been found sculptured
sepulchral stones and urns, and a third brass coin of Yalens. In the churchyard are
deponted some bones taken from the field of Culloden in 1746 ; and in the church ia
preserved a head, though from what body is unknown.
The parish of Holy Trinity is minutely described in the ArcKaologia, in 1803, by
the Rev. Dr. Fly, F.S.A., 63 years incumbent of the parish ; and the account was re-
printed in 1851 (with additions), by the Rev. T. Hill, incumbent. After the ^issolu-
tioh of the convent, there were built here " storehouses for armour and habiliments of
war, with divers workhouses serving to the same purpose" (Stow) :
** The Molcibers who in the Uinori^ sweat."— CbayrvM.
The street has been noted for its g^smiths to our time : and in 1816 their shops
were plundered by the Spa Fields rioters on their way to " summon the Tower ?*
From the Minories station the Blackwall Railway crosses the street by an unsightly
enclosed viaduct.
MINT, THE EOYAL,
LONDON, has been the chief seat of the Mint from the remotest period. Some of
the Roman emperors are presumed to have coined money here ; but " the silver
penny of Alfred," says Ruding, " is the first authentic coin yet discovered which can
with certainty be appropriated to the London Mint." The Mint in the Tower dates
from the erection of that fortress ; and it has been worked in almost every rdgn from
the Conquest to our own times. The Mint buildings — " bouses^ mills, and engines "-«
used for coining were between the outer and inner ward or ballium, thence named
orthe early coins of Carausios, which are of inferior worlcmanship
were succeeded during the later part of his reign and that of Allectns. by coins of better fltbric» bearing
the mint-marks of London and Camoiodnnam, copper onlj being found of the latter. The coins of
Carausius and AUectus were struck between 287 and 280, and all the remainhig coins with the mint-
marks L, Lir, or LOir belong to the reign of Constantine. Alter the restoration in 296, we havQ, instead
of the copper denarius issued by the two usurpers, a laxver coin called the /oUw, which gradually de-
creases in size from, say a penny, to a (krthing. No gold was issued in London during this period, but
thore are billon coins with the ezergual nuurk, rur, of Constantine and his sons. HaYiug described the
MINT, THE ROYAL, 667
cofau in Inae iVom 286 to 888, Mr. De 8«lis remarked that the iinypreesion of the Hint of London was
«n6 of the manj adminiatratiTd changes whieh attended the tranaler to the east of the imperial residenee.
It had become an estabUshment of little importance, not havin|r coined anything bat copper and billon
since the downfldl of Allectns. A temporary rcTlTat of this lUnt took pbuse under Magnus Maximns,
who rebelled in Britain in 383. There are very rare gold solidi with the mint-mark atoob, whieh are
moeh more likely to belong to Londininm Augosta than to Augusta Trevironim, of which we hare
simUar coins of the same nsuxper marked tbob and smn. No coins with the mint-mark atsob hare
been found of the successors of Magnns Maiimnsy and it is probable that the Mint of London, which ho
was obliged to revive after his snocessAil rebellioiL was again closed when he found himself in posies-
alon of tne Western Empire after the overthrow of Qratian.
In the 35th Henry III. the Mint warden's salaiy was 2s, a day. The oonstitntion of
raperior oflBcers established in the reign of Edward II., continued with few alterations
nntil 1815. In 1287, 600 Jews were confined within the Tower at one time for
clipping and adaltcrating the coin of the realm. In 1546, one 'WHliam Fozley, a
pot-maker for the Mint, fell asleep in the Tower, and could not be waked for four-
teen days and fifteen nights. Some of the Mint officers are buried in the church of
St. Peter in the Tower, the chaplain and rector of which, by grant of Edward III.,
received lOf. from the derk of the Mint, 13«. 4d, from the master of the Mint, and
\d, per week from the wages of each workman and teller of coins.
Lully, the alchemist, worked " in the chamber of St. Eatherine *' in the Tower,
and was believed to supply the Mint with gold; and Edward III., Henry VI., and
Ed^vard IV. had faith in being able by alchemy to furnish the Mint with cheap gold
and silver. In the reig^ of Edward III., the masters of the Mint were empowered
hj letters patent to take goldsmiths, smiths, and others, for the works of the Mint in
the Tower; and to imprison any rebellions within the siud Tower, until the King
should determine their punishment ; and this power was not discontinued in the reign
of Elizabeth. Before the Reformation, ecclesiastics were sometimes comptrollers:
" Should we," says Latimer, "have ministers of the Church to bo comptrollers of the
Hint P .... I would fain know who oomptrolleth the devil at home at his parish,
while he oomptrolleth the Mint?" (Sermon, 1548.) During the re-casting of the
corrupt coin in the reign of Elizabeth, the queen publicly coined at the Tower several
pieces with her own huid, and distributed them among her suite.
In 1695, Mr., afterwards Sir Isaac Newton, was appointed warden of the Mint ; and
in 1699 he was promoted to the mastership, which post he held till his death : his
mathematical and chemical knowledge was of great service in this office; he wrote an
official Report on the coinage, and drew up a table of assays of foreign coins. Newton
£ved some time in Haydon-square, Minories. In 1851 were sold several Mint Ouriosi-
Urn, once possessed by Stanesby Alchome, king's assay-master : induding the standard
troy pound, determined by the Mint officers in 1758 ; also Crocker's R^g^ter-book of
Brvwings for Medals, certified by officers of the Mint, and containing thirty autographs
ef Sir Isaac Newton,— purchased by the British Museum.
The old Royal Mint— disused after the year 1810— occupied but a very small space
within the walls of the Tower of London, and was situated at the north-east comer of
ihe ibrtress. *' The whole of the mechanical appliances— which were of the rudest
diaracter— and apparatus for executing the coinage of the realm filled but one room,
and that not a particularly large one. The melting department was ridiculously small,
and the crucibles used therein were easily moved by hand-power, even when charged
with metal. The rolling-mills, of comparatively mtnictture size, were driven by four
horses, ever going their ' weaiy rounds.' The cutting-out presses, of the most primi-
tive kind, and some of which are retained in the new Royal Mint as curiosities, were
worked by means of levers and by hand. An implement of a peculiar description
called from its shape a ' cow,' was used for raising the protecting edges on the coins^
whilst the stamping-presses were put in motion by the muscular strength of gangs of
brawny labourers. In the year 1810 the New Mint superseded the Tower Money
Factory, and to-day an area of ground as large as that covered by the entire Tower
of London itself — within its moat boundary — is occupied by the workshops, coining*
looms, and offices of the British Mint." — Abridged from the Mechanic^ Magazine,
The establishment formerW oonaisted of a master and worker, depaty-master, comptroller, king's
aaa^jr matter, king's clerk, ana snperintendent of machinery and dies; the master assayer, probationer
aaa^jrer, weigher and teller, sarreyor of meltings, surveyor ofmoner-pressers. chief and second engraver,
sadaliist, Ao. ; besides the company of moneyers, who had ooinea the pahuo money from a very early
568 CURIOSITIES OF LONDON.
pariod, with exdnslTe corporate rights. The office of Warden was abolished in iai7. A new oonatito-
wm waa Introdoced in 1816, and was changed in 1861 : it is now vested in the master and hia depotrf.
aal^ect to the Treasnry. The maatership was formerly a political office : it was last so filled by Richard
Lalor Sheil; in 1861 waa appointed a in aster and Worker, Sir John F. W. Herschel, Bart., the astro-
nomer, a worthy sooceasor to the office onoe filled by the illastrious Newton. The operative branch of
the Mint conaists of the aaaayer. the melter, and reimer. The moneyers hare been abolished, and Go-
Tcmment now coins for the nablic on its own account ; the Master being the ezecatiTe head of tbe
aatabliahment. The preaent Master is Professor Graham, F.S.8, the eminoit chemists
The present Mint, upon litUe Tower-hill, is a handsome stone stmctnre of mixed
Grecian and Roman architecture, commenced by Mr. Johnson, and completed hy Sir
Robert Smirlte, between 1806 and 1811 : the cost, indading the machinery, was a
qnarter of a million of money. It was formerly supplied with water through a tunnel
from the Tower ditch ; and it was one of the earliest pnbUc offices lighted with gas.
Upon the site was "sometime a monastery, called New Abbey, founded by King
Edward III. in 1859." (Stow.) After the Suppression, was built here the Victualling
Office, subsequently tobacco-warehouses.
At the Mint is executed the coinage of the three kingdoms, and of many of oor
eolonies ; and such is the completeness of the steam machinery by Boulton and Watt,
Maudslay and Co., and John afad (Horge Rennie» that fifty thousand pounds worth of
gold received one morning in bullion may be returned the next in coin, strangely con-
trasting with the old method of striking every piece by hand, and carrying on the
whole process in a single room. The present stupendous machinery is unequalled in
the mint of any other country. The furnaces have long been supplied wiUi smoke-
consumiag apparatus. The gold and silver being alloyed, are cast into small bars, are
passed through powerful rollers, and by the draw-bendi brought to the exact thickness
required. The drcular disks or blanks are then punched out of the sheets of metal
by other machines; and are then separately weighed, sounded, have the protecting rim
raised, and are blanched and annealed. The blanks are then taken to the coining-room,
and placed in the screw-presses, each of which by the same stroke stamps on both sides,
and mills at the edge, thus making a perfect coin : each press will coin between four
and five thousand pieces per hour, and feeds itself with the blanks. For the dies a
matrix is cut by the Mint engraver in soft steel, which, being hardened, furnishes many-
dies. In the coining-room are eight presses, which, by the force of a blow of 40 tons
weight, impress the face of the Queen, the reverse of the coin, and, at the same Ume^
mill the edge of the coin in the way previously described. From each press, the pei^
feet sovereigns are thrown off at the rate of sixty -four per minute. At this rate, sup-
posing that all the presses could be kept working, a stream of 30,720 sovereigns would
run out in an hour. The newly-ccnned money is now ready for the Trial of the Fix, when
one of each coin is placed in a pix or casket, sealed with three seals, and secured with
three locks; and the coins are then compared with the trial-plates at Westminster by a
jury from the Goldsmiths' Ck>mpany, the Lord Chancellor, or the ChanoeUor of the
Exchequer, presiding. The early matrices, and the collection of coins and medals^, at
the Mint, are among its Curiontiei.
The following are the beat Mint engravers flrom the relan of Charles I. to the present time : Briot.
Simon, Bawlina, Boettier (S), Crolcer or Crocker, Tanner, x^aaaier, Teo, Natter, Pingo (2), Piatraoci, and
the Wyons (3).
AppUeaaona to view the Mint must be made in writing to the Maater or Depaty-maater ; the partj
of visitors not to exceed six, for whom the applicant ia reaponsible ; the order available oolj for the d^
specified, and not transferable.
MINT{TS:ir^ SOUTMWARK,
A LARGE section of the parish of St. George the ICartyr, and so called from "a
mint of coinage" having been kept here by Henry VIII. it was originally
named Suffolk Manor ; and opposite St. George's church, upon the site of the premises
of Messrs. Pigeon, the distillers, was Suffolk Place, the magnificent mauaon of Charles
Brandon, Duke of Suffolk, brother-in-law of Henry VIII. This house the Duke gave
to the King in exchange for a palace of the Bishop of Norwich in the parish of St.
Martin's-in-the-Fields : it was then called Sonthwark Place and Duke's Place. In
the Sutherland View of London, 1543, it is shown as ** ye Mint."
In tbe fourth year of Edward YI. (1660) Sir Edward Peckham, Knight was appointed high-treasax«r
MINT {THE), SOUTHWAEK 669
aod Sir John Yorke trnder-treastmr, of this Mint; and in ISCl were iMoed crowns, half-crownfl*
thiilings, and sixpences, with the mint-mark Y for Sir John Yorke.
In 1549 Edward VI. came from Hampton Ck>urt to yint the Mint, when it was
spoken of as " the capital messuage, gaidens, and park in Southwark." Southwark
had also its Saxon and Ncrman Mint, a.d. 978 to 1135; and corns of Ethelred 11^
Canute, Harold, Edward the Confessor, Will Am I. and II., Henry I. and Stephen^
with the Soathwark mint-mark, are known to collectors. The old Saxon spelling of
Soathwark was ZYDLWERE, Suthgwefe ; and on Saxon coins we find it ahhreviated
ZVD, ZVDL, ZVDLE, ZVDLEIW. With the reign of Stephen ceased the power of
coining money, granted by the Tower Mint to smaller mints near London, as South-
wark, Stepney, &c. The preci£>e ute of the original Mint in Sonthwaik is unknown ; but
it was, probably, within the ancient town of Southwark (now the Gnildable Manor)
which extended only from St. Mary Overie*s Dock, by St. Saviour's Church, to Hay's-
lane, and southward to the back of the modem Town HalL It is conjectured that
the Saxon Mint may have been attached to the original Town Hall, nearly oppoute
the church of St. Olave ; or, the Southwark Mint may have been under the direction
of the early Bishops of Winchester, at or near their manor of the Click, and who may
have been moneyers here, as well as at the Winchester Mint. Of Henry, Bishop of
Winton, and the illegitimate brother of King Stephen, there exists a silver penny
(the only specimen known), which was bought at the Pembroke sale for 2QI. 10*., and
is now in the British Museum. We cannot suppc>se the original Southwark Mint to
have occupied the site of the Mint in St. George's parish, which was not within
the ancient town, and was not " the King's Maiioi" until after Henry YIII. had ob-
tained it from Cranmer, Archln&hop of Canterbury.
Queen Mary gave the Mint property to Nicholas Heath, Archbishop of York, in
recompense for York House, Whitehall, which had been taken fram Cardinal Wolsey
by Henry YIII. Archbi&hop Heath sold the Mint in 1557, when a great number of
mean dwellings were erected upon the estate ; but the mansion was not entirely taken
down, or it must hare been rebuilt, before 1637, when Aldeimcn Bromfield, Lord
Mayor of London, resided at Suffolk Place, which he potiBessed until 1650.
The Mint is described by Strype as consisting of several streets and aQcys ; the
chief entrance bdng from opposite St. George's church by Mint-street, " running into
Lombart-street, thence into Suffolk-street, and so into Qeoif^e-street ;" each entrance
having its gate. It became early an asylum for debtors, coinem, ajd vsgabonds ; and
of the "traitors, felons, fugitives, outlaws, condemued persons, convict persons, felons
defamed, those put in exigent of outlawry, felons of themselves, and such as refuse the
law of the land," who in the time of Edward VI. herded in St. George's parish. The
Mint at length became such a pest, that statutes 8 & 9 William III., and 9 & 11
Geo. I., ordered the abolition of its privileges. One of these statutes (9 Geo. I.,
1723) relieved all those debtors under 50/. who had taken sanctuary in the Mint from
their creditors : and the Weekly Journal of Saturday, July 20, 1723, thus describes
their exodus :
*'0n Tuesday last, some thousands of the Miulers went ont of the land of bondage, alias the Min^
to 1» deared at the qoarter lesnion^ st Guildford, according to the late Act of P&rh&ment 7 he road
ightlng-cocks waa seen to lead an aas loaded with geneva, to rapport the fcpirite
of the ladies upon the joumer. "Tis said that several heathen hailifTn lay in ambuacade in ditchea apon
the road, to sorpriM some of them, if possible, on their march, if they should btrs^le irom the main
body : bttt they proceeded with so mooh order and discipline, that th^ did net lose a man apon this
expe^tion."
The Mint was the retreat of poor poets :
" Then from the Mint walks forth the man of rhyme.'*— Pope.
And one of the offences with which Pope reproached his needy antagonists was their
"habitation in the Mint." "Poor Nahum Tate" (once poet laureate) died in the
Mint in 1716, where he had sought shelter from his rapacious creditors. The place is
a scene of Ga/s Beggari^ Opera ; and " Mat of the Mint" figures in Macheath's
gang. It was also one of the haunts of Jack Sheppard ; and Jonathan Wild kept
his horses at the Duk^a Head in Red-Cross-street, within the precincts of the Mint.
Illicit marriages were also performed here, as in the Fleet Prison, May Fair Chapel, &o*
570 CUBI0SITIE8 OF LONDON.
Officers of justioe sent here to serve processes were commonly pumped upon
almost to Boffocation, and even thrown into " the Black Ditch" of mad and filth.
Here is said to have occorred the first case of Anatic cholera in London in 1832.
Mnch of the district still consists of streets and alleys, of wretched tenements in^
hahited by an indigent and profligate population; sJso "lodgings for traveikn;"
but very few of the old houses renuun.
MONUMENT, THE,
ON the east nde of Fish-street-hill, occnpies part of the site of St Margaret's Church,
destroyed in the Great Fire of 1666. It was erected by Sir Christopher Wren,
between 1671 and 1677 (pursuant to 19 Charles II. c 3, s. 29), to commemorate the
Oreat Fire and rebiulding of the City : the expense was about 1^5002., defrayed oat
of the Orphans' Fund. The Monument is of the Italo-ATitruvian-Doric order, and is
of Portland stone, of which it contains 21,126 solid feet It consists of a pedestal
about 21 feet square, with a plinth 27 feet, and a fluted shaft 15 feet at the base ; on
the abacus is a balcony encompassing a moulded cylinder, which supports a flaming
vase of gilt bronze, indicative of its commemoration of the Great Fire ; though some
repudiating Roman Catholics assert this termination to be intended for the dvie cap of
maintenance ! Defoe quaintly describes the Monument as " built in the form of a
candle," the top making " handsome £^t flame like that of a candle." Its entire
height is 202 feet, stated in one of the inscriptions to be equal to its distance eastward
from the house where the fire broke out, at the king's baker's, in Pudding-lane.
On the front of the boose, on the eut side of Pudding-lane, was a stone wiih tiiia ineeripiian:
^ Here, bj the permission of Heaven, Hell broke loose upon this Protest&nt Citj, from the nuuidkws
Hearts of barbaroos Papists by the Hand of their asent HtAeti, who confessed, and on the Bains of
this Place declared the Foot, for which he was hangea. viz. That here begun that dreadftil Fiie which
is described and_perpetuated on and by the Neighboozing Pillar. Erected Anno 1681, hi the Maroratty
of Sir Patience Ward, KV'—Sattou, 1706.
The Monument is loftier than the pillars of Trajan and Antoninus at Rome, or that of
Theodosius at Constantinople; and it is not only the loftiest, but also the finest isokted
^umn in the world. Within is a staircase of 845 black marble steps, opening to the
balcony, whence the view of the metropolis, espedally of its Port, is very interesting.
It was at first used by the members of the Royal Society for astronomical purposes,
but was abandoned on account of its vibration being too great for the nicety required
in their observations. Hence the report that the Monument is unsafe, which has been
revived in our time ; " but," says Elmes, " its scientific construction may bid defiance
to the attacks of all but earthquakes for centuries to come." Wren proposed a more
charactexistic pilar, with flames blazing from the loopholes of the shaf^ and figured in
brass-work gilt; a phoDuiz was on the top riung from her ashes, in brass-gilt likewise.
This, however, was rejected ; and Wren then designed a statue of Charles II., 15 feet
high ;* but the king preferred a large ball of metal, gilt ; and the present vase of flames,
42 feet high, was adopted : when last triple regilt» it cost 120/. On June 15th, 182S,
the Monument was illuminated with portable gas, in commemoration of the laying of
the first stone of London Bridge : a lamp was placed at each of the loopholes of the
•column, to give the idea of its being wreathed with flame ; whilst two other series were
placed on the edges of the gallery, to which the public were admitted during the evening*
The west iace or front of the pedestal is rudely sculptured by Caius Qabriel Cibber, in
alto and bas-relief: Charles II., be-wigged and be-Romanised, is attended by Liberty*
Genius, and Science; in the background are labourers at work and newly-built houses:
and at the King's feet is Envy peering from an arched cell, and blowing flames to re-
kindle the mischief. The scafiblding, ladders, and hodmen are more admired for their
fidelity than the monarch and his architect. The north and south sides bear Latin
* A large print of the Monument represents the statue of Charles so placed, for comparstiYe eflM,
beside a sectional view of the apex, as constmcted. Wren's aotograph report on tiie designs for the
tammit was added to the ubb, in tbe British Moseom in 1862. A model, s^e I inch to the foot, of tho
scaffolding used in building the Monoment, is presenred. It formerly bdonged to Sir William Cham-
bers, and was presented by Heathcote Russell, C.E., to the late Sir Isambard Brunei, who left it to his
aon, Mr. I. K. Brunei : the ladders were of the rude construction of Wren's time, two uprights, with
nailed treads or rounds on the Ihce.
M00BFIELD8. 571
uucripUom by Dr. Thomas Oale, afterwards Dean of York ; that on the north reoord-
ing the desolation of the city ; the soath its restoration and improvement, and the means
employed ; while the east is inscribed with the years in which it was beg^n and finished,
and the names of the Lord Mayors during its erection. Around the base of the
> pedestal was also the following inscription, beginning at the west :-»
<W.) ** THIS PILLAR WAS SET TP IH PEBPFTVAIi BElfBllBKAKCB OF THAT MOST DBBADFUL
Bunimia of this PROTEnAxrr (b.) citt, begun aitd carrted on by ts TREAcnxRT and
MAXICE OF TX POPISH FACIIO, IN T> BEOINNINO OP SEPTEM IN T« TEAR OF (E J OUR LORD
1666, IN ORDER TO T" GARRTING ON THEIR HORRID PLOTT FOR XXTIRPATINO (N.) THE PRO-
TESTANT RELIGION AND OLD ENGLISH UBBRTT, AND THE INTRODUCING POPERT AND
And the north inscription concluded with :
**8ED FUROR PAPISTICUS QTI TAMDIU PATBATIT NONDUK REmNOVmrB.**
These offensive l^g^ds are not mentioned by Wren, but were added in 1681, by order
of the Court of Aldermen, amid the horror of the Pkipirts spread by the Titus Oates
plot. They were obliterated in the reign of James II., but recut deeper still in the
reign of WiUiam III., and excited Pope's indignant couplet :
" Where London*! column, pointiiiff at the skieL
Like a tdl boUy, lifts tbaliead end Ues."
The legends were ultimately erased (by an Act of Common Coundl) Jan. 26, 1881.
On the cap of the pedestal, at the angles, are fbnr dragons, the supporters of the City
arms : these cost 2002., and were the work of Edward Pierce, jun. Six persons have
committed suicide by throwing themselves from the Monument gallery: 1. John
Cradock, a baker, July 7, 1788; 2. Lyon Levi, a Jew diamond-merchant^ Jan. 18,
1810; 3. same year, Leander, a baker; 4. Margaret Moyes, daughter of a baker in
Hemming's-row, Sept. 11, 1889 ; 5. Hawes, a boy, Oct. 18, 1889 ; 6. Jane Cooper, a
servant-gurl, Aug. 19, 1842. To prevent similar deaths, the gallery has been encaged
with iron-work, as we now see it. William Qreen, a weaver, is erroneously recorded
Bs a suicida, June 26, 1750; for, on reaching over the railing, to look at a live eagle
kept there in a wooden cage, he aoddentally lost his balance, and fell over against the
top of the pedestal, thence into the street, and was dashed to pieces. The fidl is
exactly 175 feet. In 1732, a sailor slid down a rope from the gallery to the Three-
Tuns Tavern, Qraoechurch-street ; as did also^ next day, a waterman's boy. In the
Times newspaper of August 22, 1827, there appeared the following burlesque
advertisement :
u
jake, ect lonie tradee, shorten and make eaiL and bring ship safe to anchor. As eoon ae the ram
stated ia eolleoted, the performanoe wUl take place ; and u not performed, the money subicrlbed to be
jwturued to the ■obecrioen.'*
Admittance to the galleiy of the Monument from 9 till dusk ; charge reduced, in
1851, from 6d, to 8^, each person. In the reign of Qeorge I. the charge was 2<f . The
office of Keeper of the Monument is in the gift of the Corporation of London.
M00RFZELD8
IS first mentioned by Fitzstephen (temp. Henry II.) as " the great fen or moor which
watereth the waUs of the City on the north side," and stretched '* frt>m the wall
l)etwixt Biahopsgate and Cripplegate to Fensbury and to Holywell" (SUno). When
the Moor was frozen, Fitzstephen tells us the young Londoners, by placing the leg-bones
of aniwia^la under thdr feet, and tying them round thdr ankles, by aid of an iron-shod
pole, pushed themselves with great velocity along the ice ; and one of these hone^MhaUt,
found in digging Moorflelds, was in the Museum of Mr. C. Boach Smith, F.S A., 5,
liiverpool-street. In the ragn of Edward IL, Moorflelds was let for four marks a year ;
in 1415, the Mayor made a breach in the wall, and built the Moorgate postern. Bricks
are stated to have been made here, before any other part of London, in the I7th
Edward IV., for repairing the City wall between Aldgate and Aldersgate; when
** Moorflelds was searched for day, and bricks were made and burnt there." Facing
the wall was a black ditch ; hence *' the melancholy of Moorditch«" (Shakspeare, Hemy
672 CURIOSITIES OF LONDON,
IV. Pari L) In 1497, tbe gardens in Moorfields were made plain; the Moor was
drained in 1527, and laid ont in walks and planted in 1606.
Moorfields and Finsbnry were the great places for recreative walks ; while all beyond
was open ground, stretching right and left to the nearest villages. Moorfieldsi» in the
ancient maps^ is covered with linen ; and in Thomas Deloney's Crown Qarlamd of
Golden Mo$e9, may be seen the ballad history of " the two ladies of Finsbury that gave
Moorfields to the City, for the maidens of London to dry clothes in," and where he aaya :
" Now are made most pleasant walks
That great contentment yielfl :"
while Finsbnry fields was the great school of archery, from the time when every man
was enjdned by law to " draw a good bow and shoot a good shot," until the entire
decay of the scieuce.
There is a curions tract on Moorfields, pnblished by Henry GkMson, in 1607, entitled
"The Pleasant Walks of Moorfields: being the gift of two risten,'now beautified to
the continuing fiime of this worthy city," and is the work of Itichard Johnson, author
of " Look on me, London." The laying out and planting the fields are here minutely
described. This tract has been reprinted by Mr. Payne Collier.
Evelyn, recording the Great Fire, says the houseless people took refuge about Moor-
fields, under tents and miserable huts and hovels ; and Pepys found Moorfields full of
people, and " poor wretches carrying their goods there f* next year the fields were built
upon and paved. On the south side was erected Bethlehem Hospital in 167&-6 (m«
pp. 51-54), which has disappeared in our time, with the long line of furniture-dealers*
shops from the north side.
** Through fiun'd Hoorfietds extends a spaeloaa seat.
Where mortals of exalted wit retreat;
Wher& wrapp'd in oontemplation and in straw.
The wiser few fh>m the mad world withdraw.*'
€h»y to Mr, Thoma* Show, (ToUmm/A, aeor Tm^U Bar.
Under Bethlehem wall, in 1758-4, Elizabeth Canning, by her own testimony, was
seized, robbed, and gagged; thence dragged to Mother Wells's at Enfield Wash, and
there nearly starved to death ; but the whole story was a hoax.
The Moor reached firom London Wall to Hoxton ; and a thousand cartloads of human
bones brought from St. Paul's charnel-house in 1549, and soon after covered with
street- dirt, became so elevated, that three windmills were built upon it. (Aggas's
plan shows three windmills on the site of Finsbury-square : hence Windmill-hill, now
street.) The ground on the south side being also much raised, it was named Upper
Moorfields. On the north of the fields stood the Dogge-houso, where the Lord Mayor's
hounds were kept by the Common Hunt : hence *' Dog-house Bar," City-road. East-
ward the Moor was bounded by the ancient hospital and priory of Bethlehem, separated
by a deep ditch, now covered by Blomfield-street. The lower part of the fields was
paled into four squares, each planted with elm-trees, round a g^rass-plat, and intersected
by broad gravel- walks ; a fi&vourite promenade in evenings and fine weather, and called
** the City Mall ;" where beaux wore their hats diagonally over their left or right eye.
hence called " the Moorfields cock." Here was the Foundry at which, previous to the
year 1706, the brass ordnance for the British Government was cast. Near the Foundry
Whitcfield built his Tabernacle ($ee p. 223). It was roofed with pan-tiUs.
Moorfields was, till near Pennant's time, the haunt of low gamblers, the great
gymnasium of our capital, the resort of wrestlers, boxers, and football players. Hera
mountebanks erected their stages, and dispensed infallible medicines to the gaping gulls.
Here, too, field-preachers set up their itinerant pulpits, beneath the shade of the trees;
and here the pious, well-meaning Whitefield preached so winningly, as to gain from a
neighbouring chariatan the greater number of his admirers.
Moorgate was erected opposite the site of Albion Chapel, at the south-west angle of
the fields, and was rebuilt in 1672 ; the central gateway higher than usual, for the
City Trained Bands to march through it with their pikes erected. The fields are now
covered by Finsbury -square and Circus, and adjoining streets : the name survives in
" Little Moorfields," and it has been revived in Moorgate-street. Until comparatively
modem times, Moorfields was an open space, uniting with the ArtiUery-g^round {see
p. 21) and Bunhill-fields (eee p. 76).
MUSEUM, THE BBITI8E. 573
In lintbory-place was " the Temple of the Masea/' built by James Laekington, the celebrated book-
seller, who came to London in 1773 with onlj half-a-crown in his pocket. In 1792 he cleared 60002. by
bis bosiness; and in 1798 retired with a lar^ fortune, amassed br deiding in old books, and reprintlnfr
them at a cheap rate. He was succeeded br his cousin George Lackinffton, Allen, Hughes, Mavor (a
son of the Bev. Dr. Mayor), Harding, and Co. ; and next by Jones and Co., the publishers ot London in
the mntletnik Ceninry, Laokington's " Temple,'* which was a vast building, was destroyed by fire in
1841.
Moorfields has a sort of ideal association with the notorious '' Calves'-Head Clab."
In a blind alley about Moorfields met the Caloet'Sead CZkft, where an axe hung up in the Club-
room, and was rererenoed as a principal symbol in this diabolical sacrament. Their great feast of
Calves' heads was held the 80th of January (the anniversary of the martyrdom of King Charles I.), the
Club being erected *' by an impudent set of people, in derision of the day, and defiimce of monaidiy."
Their bill of fhre was a large dish of calves' neads, dressed several ways; a large pike, with a small one
in his mouth, as an emblem of tyranny; and a laige cod's head, to represent the person of the King
(Charles I.) singly, as by the calves' heads before they had done him together with all them that sufilered
in bis caase ; ana a boars head, with an apple in its mouth, to represent the king by this as bestial, as
by ^e others they had done foolish and tyrannical. After the repast the Bihm Ba»iUk« was bumt»
anthems were sung, and the oath was sworn upon Milton's D^fentio PopuU AngUoani. The company
consisted of Independents and Anabaptists; Jerry White, formerly chaplain to Oliver Cromwell, said
grace; and the table-cloth behig removed, the Anniversary Anthem, aa they impiously called it, was
sung, and a calfs skull filled with wine or other liquor, and then a brimmar went about to the pious
inemory of those worthy patriots that had killed the tyrant^ Ac (See the Becnt IGttonf of the Quoea**
Mead Ohtb, 6th edit 1706.)
But the whole affoir of the Calves'-Head Club was a hoax, kept alive by the pre-
tended Secret History. An accidental riot, following a debauch on one 30th of January,
has been distributed between two successive years, owing to a misapprehension of the
mode of reckoning prevalent in the early part of the last century ; and there is no more
reason for believing in the existence of a Calves'-Head Club in 1734-5 than there is for
believing that it exists in 1867.— (See Club Life of London, vol. i. pp. 25-84. 1866.)
Coleman-ttreet, named from its bculder, was originally part of the " Lower Walks of
Moorfields :" it gives name to the Ward. In a house in this street were received and
harboured the Five Members accused of treason by Charles I. At the Star tavern, in
Coleman-street^ Oliver Cromwell and several of his party occasionally met, as given in
evidence on the trial of Hugh Peters. In a conventicle in Swan-alley, Venner, a wine*
cooper and Millenarian, preached to the soldiers of King Jesus : an insurrection followed,
and Venner was hanged and quartered in Colcman-street, Jan. 19, 1660-61. The
Cambridge carrier put up at the Bell, in Coleman-street, 1637 ; and in Gh:eat Bell Yard,
Bloomfield, author of the Fanner's Boy, worked as a shoemaker. Justice Clement, in
Ben Jonson's Every Man in his Humour, lived in Colcman-street ; and Cowley wrote
a comedy called Cutter of Coleman-street, 1721.
MUSEUM, THE BRITISH,
GREAT Russell-street, Bloomsbury, occupies the site of Montague House, built for
Ralph Montague, first Baron Montague, of Boughton, by Robert Hooke, the cele-
brated mathematician and horologist. Evelyn describes it, in 1679, aa " Mr. Montague's
new palace neere Bloomsberry, built somewhat after the French pavilion way," with
ceilings painted by Verrio. On Jan. 19, 1686, it was burnt to the ground, through tlie
carelessness of a servant " airing some goods by the fire ;" the house being at the time
let by Ixnrd Montague to the Earl of Devonshire. Lady Rachel Russell, in one of her
letters, describes the sparks and flames covering Southampton House and filling the
court. The loss is stated at 40,000^., besides 60002. in plate; and Lord Devonshire's
pictures, hangings, and furniture. The mansion was rebuilt upon the foundations and
burnt walls of the former one, the architect being Peter Puget. La Fosse painted the
ceilings, Rousseau the landscapes and architecture, and Jean Baptiste Monnoyer the
flowers. Lord Montague, who in 1705 was created Marquis of Monthermer and Duke
of Montague, cUed here in 1709 ; his son resided here until his manrion was completed
at Whitehall. Montague House was built on the plan of a first-class French hotel, of
red brick, with stonis dressings, lofty domed centre, and pavilion-like wings. In front
was a spadous court, inclosed with a high wall, within which was an Ionic colonnade,
the principal entrance being in the centre, by the " Montague Great Qate," beneath a
picturesque octangular lantern, with dock and cupola; and at each extremity of the
wall was a square lantern. The old maudon was removed between 1846 and 1832,
574 CURIOSITIES OF LONDON.
when portioiis of the punted waUs and ceilings, La Fosse's deities, and Baptisie's
ilowerH, were presenred, and sold with the materials.
Montafma Hoom tad gardens ooeapied MTcn acres. In the latter, in 1780, were encamped th«
troopt ■tatiffltwl to quell the Gordoo Biota : and a print of the period shows the gardens in the rear of
the mansion, laid oat in graaa terraces, flower-hordera, grass-plots, and grarel-walka, wliere the gaj
world resorted on a sanunor'B erenlng : the back being open to the fields, extending west to Lasson-
neen and Paddington ; north to Primrose Hill, Chalk Fann. Uampstead, and Highgate ; and etst to
Battlebridgc, IsUx^^ton, St. Pancras, ftc. On tlie side of uie garaen next fiedf<ml-9qnare was a fine
croTC of elm-trees; ana the gaidena of Bedford Hoose, in Bloomsbory-sqaare, reached to those of the
British Mnaeom, before that house was taken down, and BasseU<sqaare and the adjacent streets were
boilt on ita site. (See Fxxu» ov Fobtt Footstsps, page 337.)
The British Museum has heen the growth of a oentnry, between the first purchase
for the collection in 1753, and the near completion of the new baildings in 1853. The
Husenm originated in a suggestion in the will of Sir Hans Sloane (d. 1753), offering
his collection to parliament for 20,000/., it having coat him 50,000^ The offer was
accepted; and by an Act (26th George II.) were purchased all Sir Hans Sloane's
'* library of bo(^ drawings, manuscripts, prints^ medals, seals, cameos and intaglios,
predoua stones, agates, jaspers, vessels of agate and jasper, crystals, mathematical
instruments, pictures," &c. By the same Act was bought, for 10,0002., the Harleian
Library of MSS. (about 7600 volumes of roUs, charters, &c) ; to which were added the
Cottonian Library of MSS., and the library of Major Arthur Edwards. (See Lxbrlbik,
page 519.) By the same Act also was raised by lottery 100,000/., out of which the
Sloane and Harleian collections were paid for ; 10,250/. to Lord Halifax for Montagne
House, and 12,873/. for its repairs ; a fund being set apart for the payment of taxes
and salaries of officers. Trustees were elected from persons of rank, station, and literary
attainments ; and the institution was named the Bstfish Mfsbuk. There had also
been offered Buckingham House, with the gardens and field, for 80,000/. ; and at one
time it was proposed to deposit the Museum in Old Palace-yard, in the place designed
by Kent for new Houses of Parliament. To Montague House were removed the
Harleian collection of MSS. in 1755 ; other collections in 1756; and the Museum was
opened to the public January 15, 1759. At first the Museum was divided into three
departments, viz.— -Printed Books, Manuscripts, and Natural History ; the increase of
collections soon rendered it necessary to provide additional accommodation for them,
Montague House proving insufficient. The present by Qeorge III. of Egyptian
Antiquities, and the purchase of the Hamilton and Townley Antiquities^, made it more
imperative to create an additional department — that of Antiquities and Art — to which
were united the Prints and Drawings, as well as the Medals and Coins previouslj
attached to the Library of Printed Books and Manuscripts. Next, in 1816, was
provided temporary shdter for the Elgin Marbles, this being the last addition to
Montague House.
When, in 1823, the library collected by Geor^ IIL was presented to the nation
by George IV., it became necessary to erect a building to receive it. It was then
decided to have an entirely new edifice to contain the whole of the Museum ccUections,
including the reoentiy acquired Library. Sir Robert Smirke, BA., tne architect,
accordingly prepared plans. The eastern side of the present structure was completed in
1828, and the Royal library was then deporated in it. The northem, southern, and
western sides of the building were subsequentiy erected, Montague House being re^
moved piecemeal as the new buildings progpressed, so that the Museum was not closed
for the rebuilding. Mr. Sydney Smirke, in 1846, succeeded his brother. Sir Robert,
as architect to the Museum. The plan conasts of a courtyard, flanked east and west
with the official apartments. The main buildings form a quadrangle^ upon tiie ground
of the gardens of Montague House. The arclutecture throughout the exterior is
Grecian- Ionic. The southern fafade consists of the great entrance portico, eight
columns in width, and two intercolumniations in projection ; on mther nde is an ad-
vancing wing : entire front 370 feet, surrounded by a colonnade of 44 columns, 5 feet at
their lower diameter, and 45 feet high; height of colonnade from the pavement 6^
feet. At the foot of the portico are 12 stone steps, 120 feet in width, terminating
with pedestals for colossal groups of sculpture. " Since the days of Trajan or Hadrian,
no such stones have been used as those recentiy employed at the British Museum, where
800 stones, from 5 to 9 tons w^ght, form the front Even St. Paul's contains no ap-
JMTUSEUM, TEE BRITISH, 575
proach to these magnitudea." (Prof. CoekereU's Lectures, 1850.) The tympanum of
the pedhnent is enriched with a gronp allegorical of the " Progress of Civilizafaon,**
and thus described by the sculptor. Sir Richard Westmacott, R^. :
"Commencing at the weetem end or angle of the pediment, Han to represented emerging from a
ii.**^^ ?**5 throogh the Influence of Beligion. He is next personified as a honter and tiller of the
?J^ * ^ !S°T?5? ?' **" nibeirtenoe. Patriarchal simplicitj then becomes invaded, and the worahip
or the tone God defiled. Paganism prerails, and becomes difltased by meant of the Arts. The worship
or the heavTOljbodiea, and their supposed toflucnce. led the EgypUanB. Chaldeans, and other nation*
to Btudj astronomy, troiflod by the centre stotne— the key-etone to the composition. CiviliiaUon is now
prCTumed to have m^e considerable progress. Descending towards the eastern angle of the pediment
M Mathematics, in allosion to Science being now pursued on known sound principles. The Drams,
^oeaj, and Music balance the group of the Ptoe Arts on the western side, the whole composition ter-
miuating with Natural History, in which such sulijects or specimens only are represented as could b»
made most eflnctiTe hi sculpture." The crocodile is emblematic of the croel^ of man In savage life, ths
tortoue of his slow progress to dTiUzation. The figure of Astronomy U 12 feet high, and weighs between
7 and 8 tons. The several figures sre executed in Portbmd-stone, snd the decorative accessories are gilt.
The ornamental gates and railing inclosing the courtyard were commenced in model
by Lovati, who died before he had made much progress ; they were completed by Mr.
Thomas and Messrs. Collmann and Davis. The nuling — spears painted dark copper,
with the heads gilt, and with an ornamented band — is raised upon a granite curb. In
the centre of the railing is a grand set of carriage-gates and foot-entrances, strengthened
by fluted columns with composite capitah^ richly gilt, surmounted by vases. The frieze
is wholly of hammered iron : the remainder of the iron-work is cast from metal moulds^
and was chiefly piece-moulded, in order to obtain relief. The carriage-gates are moved
by a windlass, both sides opening simultaneously. Each half of these gates weighs up-
wards of five tons. The height of the iron-work is 9 feet to the top rail : the length
of the whole palisade is about 800 feet. The metal-work was contracted for by Walker,
of York, and oost nearly 8000^. Upon the granite gate-piers are to be placed sitting
statues of Bacon and Newton, and upon the two end piers Milton and Shakspeaie.
The buildings have altogether cost upwards of 800,000^.
As yon stand beneath the,portioo, the effect is truly mi^estic, and you are impressed
with the feeling that this is a noble institution of a gp-eat country. The principal en-
trance is by a carved oak door, 9 feet 6 inches m width, and 24 feet in height. The
hall is Grecian-Doric. The ceiling, trabeated and deeply coflcred, is enriched with
Greek frets and other ornaments in various colours, painted in encaustic. Here are
three marble statues : the Hon. Mrs. Darner, holding a small figure of the Genius of
the Thames ; Shakspeare, by Roubiliac ; and Sir Joseph Banks, Bart., by Chantrey.
The statue of Shakspeare was bequeathed by Garrick to the Museum after the death of
his widow ; the statue of Sir Joseph Banks was presented by his personal friends. Be-
tween these statues is the doorway to the Grenville Library. East of the hall is
the Manuscripts Department; west, the prindpal staircase (with carved vases of
Huddlestone stone), and a gallery which forms the approach to the Collection of
Antiquities.
To inspect the several collections in the order in which thsy are described in the official Guide, the
vidtor will ascend to the upper floor by the principal staircase, and enter the exhibition rooms of the
Zoological Department. These rooms form part of the southern, the whole of the eastern, and part of
the northern sides of the upper floor. The Minerals and FosaUs which are next described, are contained
In the remaining part of the northern side. The Botanical exhibition is displsved in two rooms in the
aoathem front of the building, which are entered by a doorway on the eastern side of the Central Saloon
in the Zoological Department. Following still the order of the Gkdde, the visitor will descend the prin-
dpal stairs to the haU, and enter the Department of Antiquities Inr the doorway near the south-western
angle. The Antiquities occupy the whole of the western parts of the ground floor, several rooms con-
neefced therewith on the basement, and the western side of the upper floor. On the lower floor, the eastern
portion of the south front, and part of the east wing, is the Library of Manuscripts. The remainder of
the east side, and the whole of the northern side of the quadrangle, are occupied by the Printed Books.
The entrance to the Grenville room is on the eaatem side of the hall, under the clock. In this room
is deposited the splendid library bequeathed to the nation in 1847 by the Bight Hon. Thomas Grenville.
a marble bust of whom, by ComolU, standa in a recess on the southern side. Here, as well as in the Bovm
libraij, are exhibited various printed books, selected to show the progress of the art of printing, with
specimens of ornamental and curious binding. From the Grenville library the visitor proceeds to the
Manuscript Saloon, where selections of manuscripts, charters, autographs, and seals are arranged for
inspection. The visitor next enters the Boyal library, and here, oesidos the printed books already
'mentioned, are exhibited some interesting and valuable specimens from the dcp«rtment of prints and
drawings.
The Zoologioaii Collections.— Specimens from the existing classes of Animals
ere contained In three Galleries; and are arranged in two aeries. The Beasts, Birds^
676 CTTRIOSITIES OF LONDON.
Reptiles, and Fishes are exhibited in the Wall Cases. The hard parts of the Radiate
Mollufioous, and Annalose Animals, (as Shells, Corals, Sea Eggs, Starfish, Crustacea,)
and Insects, and the Eggs of Birds, are arranged in a series in the Table-Cases of the
several Booms.
The General Collection of Mammals, or Beasts which suckle their yoang, is arranged
in three Rooms, the Hoofed Beasts (TIngulatd) bdng contained in the Central Saloon
and Sonthcm Zoological gallery, and the Beasts wiCh claws {Unguiculata) in the Mam-
malia Saloon.
Central Saloon, — In the Cases the specimens of the Antelopes, Goats, and Sbeep ;
and the Bats, or Cheiroptera, Some of the larger Mammalia are placed on the floor,
such as the Giraffes, and the Morse or Walrus. Also, the fiill-grown male Gorilla, of
the female, and of a young male, from the Gaboon, Equatorial Afinca ; horns of Oxco.
Southern Zoological Qallery, — In Cases, the continuation of the ooUeotion of the
Hoofed Quadrupeds, as the Oxen, Elands, Deer, Camels, Llamas, Horses, and tho va*
nous species of Swine. Here also are placed the species of ArmadiUo, Manis^ and Sloth.
On the Wall Cases are the horns of Antelopes, and on the floor are arranged the dif-
ferent Rhinoceros, Indian Elephant ; a very young African Elephant, remarkable for
the large size of its ears; specimens of the young, half-grown, and adult Hippopotamus,
and the wild Oxen from India and Java. Here is the aurochs, or shaggy-maned
Lithuanian Bison, presented by Nicholas, Emperor of Russia, and said to be the finest
specimen of stuffing in the Museum. Above the bison of the prairies is the ornitho-
rhyncus, with a bird-like bill, — the water-mole of Australia.
MammaUa Saloon. — In the Cases are the specimens of Handed, Rapacious, Olirine.
and Pouched Beasts ; over the Cases are the different kinds of Seals, Manatees, and
Porpoises ; and arranged in Table Cases are the general collections of Corals.
JEasfem Zoological Oallerg, 200 feet long and 60 feet wide. — ^The general collection
of Birds ; the collection of Shells of Molluscous animals, and a series of horns of Deer
and Rhinoceros. Here is a Reeves's Chinese pheasant (tail-feathers 6 feet 6 inches
long) ; and next the ostriches are a Dutch painting of the extinct dodo, a foot of the
bird supposed to be more than two and a half centuries old, and a cast of the head ;
also, a specimen of the rare apteryx, or wingless bu:d of New Zealand.
Above the Wall Caaes are 116 portraits of eovereigos, statesmen, heroes, travellen. and men of science;
—a few from the Sloanean and Cottoniaii collections : indnding two portraits of Oliver Cromwell (oue
a copy flrom an original poBseseed by a great-grandson ctf Cromwell ; the other an original presented by
Cromwell himself to Nath. Rich, a colonel in the parliamentarr army, and bequeathed to tk» Moseam,
in 1784, by Sir Robert Rich, Bart.) : three portraits of Mair Qaeen of Soots, Richard TL, Edward 1 11^
Henry V., Edward VI., Queen Blinbeth, James I., Charles I. and II., Ac. ; three portraits of BIr Hans
Sloane ; Peter I. of Robbie, StanisUos Angnsttis I. of Poland, Charles XII. of Swedsn, and Loois XIV. of
France; Lord Bacon; the poets Pope and Prior; Dr. John Bay, the fint great EogUsh nataralist;
George Buchanan, 1681, on panel ; Sir Francis Drake and Captain Dampier; Martin Luther, 1546, on
panel; Gutenberg, the iuTentor of printing; Richard Baxter, the Nonconformist: Yesalias, by Sir
Antonio More ; Mary Davis, 1688, ** letatis 7V' with a hom-like wen on her head; Sir Robert Cotton,
Dr. Birch, Humphrey Wanley, Sir H. Spelman, and Sir W. Dugdale ; Camden, on panel ; Thomas Britton,
the musical small-coal-man ; Andrew Marrell, said to be the only portrait extant of him ; ftc. This ist,
probably, the largest collection of portraits hi the kincdom : many are ill-painted, others Teiy eorioos,
and some unique; the minority of them had long lain m the lumber-lofts of the old Mosemn, when tbev
were hung up, chiefly at the suggestion of the hite Mr. William Smith, of LL^e-street. A Teiy interestixig
eataiogue rattownie of these pictures appeared in the TiwuBt Not. 27 and Dec 8, 1838.
Northern Zoological OaUerg — ^five rooms : 1. Nests of Birds and Insects ; larger Rep-
tiles; rarest small Quadrapeds; tbe Aye-aye of Madagascar; 8. British Zoological Col-
lection— tbe Vertebrated Animals ; tbe larger spedes, such as the Whales, Sharing Tunny.
&c., are suspended on the Walls, or placed on the Cases ; the eggs of the Birds ; a series of
British Annnlose Animals ; tbe stuffed exotic Reptiles and Batrachia; tbe hard parts of
the RadiatedAnimals,includingtheSea-EggB, Sea-Stars, and Encrinites; 4. The stuffed
collection of exotic bony Fish ; select specimens of Annulose Animals; Insects— Beetles,
Praying Mantis, Walkmg Stick, and Leaf Insects, White Ants, Wasps and Bees,
Butterflies, Spiders, Crustacea ; 5. The exotic Cartilaginous Fish, such as the voracion^
Sharks ; the liays ; the Torpedo or Numb-fish ; Sturgeons ; the saws of various Saw-fish,
and larger Sponges.
North Qallerg.^'Voml Remains in six rooms, partly In Zoological order and partly
MUSEUM, THE BRITISH,
ir
V
I* •!
H-
IS
14^1
25
J. Portloo. t. Bntraaoehan.
4. OrenTflle llbntiy,
5. Munserlpt saloon. 6. ItoyallihrMT*
7* Lobby ft 2r.B. italrcMe to upper floor.
"DwtLvnaxT OB AjrTXQuims.
8.nomanKaUer7.
fi. Flrtt GnDoo-fioman brIooo.
11. Third Z n
IS. Btalreue to GnBoo-Bomaa bMe-
mentroom.
'«• af«*«,e^lwy« li. Greek ante-room.
}^ &^f * ^^'^ "><"»• !•• Second do.
17. Hellenic room.
18. KooyniUik gallery.
IS. Nlmrooa central saloon.
!?•.»•, gaUery.
SI. Auyrian tide room,
IS. StairoaM to AMyrlui boaemettt
^ , room.
». Assyrian transept.
« &*^™ Bgyptfim gaUeiy.
»• EKTRtlAn central saloon.
M. Northern Egyptian gallery.
2* v_^>L ^ »i . veetibnie.
a. North-west staircase to upper floor.
g
/2
/O
8
J-;^*-',
fo
22
23
BBTBVnrOK.
o. Prlneipal staircase.
ZOOLOOIOAL OOLLICTZOVS*
Central saloon.
£«utherii Zoological gallery.
I Mammnlla salooa>
jS;»; etalroMe to sronnd floor.
5
*"* vviwaUiwWI Ml K2a/II
Northn. Zoologloal gallery, lit room, i
•• n »• Snd
M i> n Srd
•• »» (f 4th
•* »* t« Bth
VnrZBALS AID FOflSXU.
11. Soom T.
■ North GaOezy.
cj
17. 18. BoTAjnciL Books.
S^- I :r C;*^ B«ypt. room. tl. Second do
i' SlL!?-!"* '***"»• *>• Second do.
.«. Bronte room.
:^ Sri"*** -nd Mfdto^l room,
te. BthnoKraphloal room.
U
2£
^ 17 I 18 I tl
pp
578 CURIOSITIES OF LONDON.
in Geological sequence. 1. Plants. 2. Fishes, arranged chiefly after Agasmz. 8.
Beptilian Remains : Frog, Tortoise, and CrooodUe ; the Ignanodon and MegakMiunu ;
gigantic Salamander, mistaken for a human skeleton; remidns of Igoanodon, 70
ft$et long, from Tilgate Forest, Sussex ; of the HylsDoeaurus, or Wealden lizard ; and the
Plesiosaurus ; the Epyomu, extinct wingless hird from Madagascar, remains referred
by Professor Owen to dbtinct genera, some of which are still living in New Zealand,
whilst others are, most probably, extinct. Amongst the living species may be noticed
the Notomis ManteUi, a very large spedes of the Bail fiunily. The DinoruU, wing-
less, and gigantic, from 10 to 11 feet in height, Dicynod^m from South Africa, with two
large descending tusks; enormous Tortoise frtnn India. 4. Reptilian Remains; birds
and Marsupuils. 6. Mammalian Renuuns : corals^ mollusca, nummulites, stone lilies,
sea urchins, worms, insects, crustaoea, trilobites, fossil shells. 6. Edentata and
Pacbydermata : skeleton of the Megatherium; Elephant, and Mastodon; cast of the
skeleton of the Megatherium Americanum, found in Buenos Ayres; fossil human
skeleton from Quadaloupe, &c In Saurian Fossils the Museum is eminently rich ; as
well as in gigantic ooeous remains ; and impressions of vegetables, fruity and fish.
Mineral ColUetum, mostly on Berzelius's system, in four rooms : mass of Meteoric
Iron (1400lbs.) from Buenos Ayres ; native Silver from Konsberg ; trunk of a tree con-
verted into semi-opal; large mass of Websterite from Newhaven ; Tortoise sculptured
in Nephrite, or Jade, from the banks of the Jumna; Esquimaux knifo and harpoon, of
meteoric iron ; a large collection of Meteoric Stones chronologically arranged. Here,
also, are Diamonds of various forms, and models of celebrated diamonds. The coUection
is superior to any in Europe, and includes a splendid cabinet of minerals from the Harz
Mountains.
Thb BoTiLinCAL OB BiHZSiAir Depastmsvt contains the Herbaria of Sir Hans
Sloane (336 v( 1 imes bound in 262) ; the Herbaria of Plukenet and Petiver ; collections
from those of Merret, Cunningham, Hermann, Bobart, Bernard de Jussieu, Toumefort,
Scheuchzer, Kamel, Vaillant, Knmpfer, Catesby, Houston, and Boerhaave ; the Plants
presented to the Boyal Society by the Company of Apothecaries from 1722 to 1796, as
rent paid by the Company for the Botanic Garden at Chelsea* Also the Herbarinm
of the Baron de MoU ; the Herbarium of Sir Joseph BankSi mostly in cabinets, nearly
80,000 species, indnding Sir Joseph's collections upon his voyage with Captain Cool^
and the Plants collected in subsequent voyages of discovery ; Loureiro's Plants from
Cochin China; an extensive series presented by the East India Company; Egyptian
Plants, presented by Wilkinson, Ac The Flowers and Fruits preserved in spirits, and
the dried Seeds and Fruits, are fine; as are also the various specimens of Woods.
Dbfabtmsktb op AimQxriTiss.— Tlie collections are divided into two series. The
first, consisting of Sculpture, indnding Inscription and Architectural remains, occupies the
Ground Floor of the South-western and Western portions of the building; and to thia
division have been added some rooms in the basement — ^Assyria and other countries.
The second series, placed in a suite of rooms on the Upper Floor, comprehends all the
smaller remains, of whatever nation or period, such as Vases and Terra-oottas, Bronzes,
Coins, and Medals, and articles of personal or domestic use. To the latter division are
attached the Ethnographical specimens. The four prindpal series of Sculptures are the
Roman, indnding the mixed doss termed GrsBOO-Roman, the Hellenic, the Assyrian, and
the Egyptian at right angles to the Roman. To the left of the Hall, on entering the
building, is the Roman Gallery. On the South side are miscellaneous Roman anti-
quities (iUsoovered in this country, belonging to British Antiquities. On the opposite
side is the series of Boman loonographical or portrait Sculptures^ whether statues or busts.
In 1864 were sdded nine statoes from the Famese Palace at Rome, porchaeed from the ex-king of
Naples, for 40002. These rtataea are : 1. A Mercorj, nearly identical in pose and scale with the cele-
hrated statoe in the Belvedere of the Vatican. 2. An equestrian statue of a Boman Emperor of heroio
size. The head is that of a CaliifQla, bat doabts have been entertained whether it belong to the body %
,ande8peci
to Of Iron
InrcL engi
No. 1S8, representa a Greek athlete oinding a diadem roand hii head, whence the name DIadamenoas
size, rne neaa is tnat or a i;auffma, irai donbts nave oeen entertained wnetner it oeionn to tne oody t
this group is in very fine oondiUou, and especially interesting, as being one of the verv nw equestriaa
atatues wnidi have been preserred to us from anttquity. S. The celebrated and unique copy of the
Diadumenoe of Polycletus. This flgurcL engraved in &. O. Mfiller's DiikmSUr d. a. Kunat^ taf. xxxi.
used as a canon of proportions in the ancient scl^ools, and which, at a later period, sold fbr the enormoos
sum of 100 talents, eoual to 16,0002. 4. An Apollo playing on the lyre, in the same attitode as the
iMWutifal statue from Cyrencb in the British Museum, but naked. 6. An heroio fiffure^ posalblr a Kinff
of the Maoedonian perLoi in the oharacter of a Deity. 7. A Satyr holding up a Daaket in which is an
MUSEUM, TEE BBITI8E. 579
Amorlno. The two remaiiiins' statues are a group of Mercury and Hers^. An Intereetiog notice of
these etataes, from the pen of Professor Gerhard, of Berlin, is to be fbnnd In Bonsen's great work on
the Topography of Rome.
Also, a bronxe lamp fonnd on the site of Julian's palace^ probably of a date prior to tiie Cihxistlan er%
and considered to be Greek— a most beautifhl work.
BriHth and Anglo-JEtoman Memaiiu — ^Tessellated pavements, Roman altars, sanx)-
]>hagi, Roman pigs of lead; tessellated pavements from the Bank of England and
Threadneedle-street and other parts ; Roman mill fragments from Trinity Honse-sqnare^
and a saroophagos from Haydon-sqoare.
In 1864 were added 2000 objeota^ connected with the first or early appearance of
man on this earth, as flint implements, or weapons found in the drift, a section of a
Danish Ejokkenmfidding, relics from caves of the Soath of France, implements of bone,
engraving and scolpture on bone and horn, remains of the Stone Period, bronze im-
plements, oelts and arrow-heads, bronze figures of animals, Roman remains — all ez*
tremely interesting to the antiquary and geologist, &c. Also, the Collection of Remains
found in the cavern at Abbeville with specimens of the cave bones and stones, illus-
trating the Antiquity of Man.
GrecO'Boman Rooms, — Statues and bas-reliefr by Greek artists, or from Qreek
originals; busts of mythological, poetical, and historical personages; statues and busts
of Roman emperors; architectural and decorative sculptures and bas-relie&; sepulchral
monuments, Etruscan, Ghreek, and Roman; Roman altars; pavement from Carthage;
bas-relief of Jupiter and Leda ; the group of Mithra ; the Rondini Faun ; torso of
Venus, from Ridimond House ; bas-relief of the Apotheosis of Homer, cost 10002. ;
Persepolitan marbles, presented by Sir Qore Ouseley and the Earl of Aberdeen ; a Venus
of the Capitol ; and other high-class marbles from the collections of Sir W. Hamilton,
R. Payne Knight, and Edmund Burke; including, from the latter, the copy of the
Cupid of Praxiteles, presented by the painter Barry to Burke. Here also are a sarco-
phagus fit>m Sidon, sculptured with combats of Greeks, Amazons, and Centaurs; and a
magnificent marble tazza 4 feet 8^ inchea high, and 3 feet 7 inches diameter.
Hke Toumley CoUeeHon of bas-relte&, vases, statues, and groups, heads and busts,
includes 83 terra^cottas : the fiuned Discobolus, or Quoit-thrower, in marble, from the
bronze of the sculptor Myron; Venus, or Dione^ the finest Greek statue seen by Canova
in England; Venus Victrix, of the highest style of art; busts of Plsllas, Hercules,
Minerva, and Homer ; bust of '' Clytie rising from a sunfiiower f* and busts of Greek
poets and plulosophers. The Bacchus is finest — so beautiful, self-possessed, and severe ;
Bacchus, the mighty conqueror of India — ^not a drunken boy — ^bnt the power, not the
victim of wine.
These stores of Greek and Boman art were ooDeoted bj Mr. Charles Townley, chiefly at Borneo be-
tween 1786 and 1772; and were arranged by him at No. 7, Park-streetWestmlnster, with aocompani-
ments so daasicaUy oorreot, tliat the noose resembled the interior of a Boman villa. The dining-room
had walls of scagUola porphyry; and here were placed the largest and most valuable statues, lighted by
lamps almost to animation. Mr. Townl^ died in 1806 ; and nis ooUeoUon of marbles and terrarCottas
was pnrohased by the British Mosenm for SO.OCKM., and first exhibited in a gallery built for their recep-
tion in 1806. mr. Townley's bronzes, coins, sems, drawings, Ac., chiefly lUostrating the scnlptores.
were subsequently purchased by the Museum for 82002. A bust of Mr. Townl^, by NoUekens, is plaoea
near the entrance to the Central Sidoon. Subsequent acquisitions have been made by the bequest of the
collection of B. Payne Knight, Esq., in 1824^ and by various indiyidual pnrehaeos and donations.
Zyeian OoZ^tfry.—- Beliefs, tombs» and sarcophagi discovered and brought to England
by Sir Charles Fellows, principally from the ruins of Xanthui^ 8. W. Aaa Minor;
dating from the earliest Greek period to that of the Byzantine empire, and earlier than
the Parthenon. Model of the Harpy Tomb, with its actual white marble reliefii, pre-
sumed to represesent the daughters of Pandiarus carried off by Harpies : the tomb itself
was a square shaft, 80 tons weight. Model of an Ionic peristyle building, with 14
columns and statues ; the fnezes representing the conquest of Lyda by the Persians*
and the siege of Xanthus. Tomb of Paiafa : roof resembling an inverted boat, and an
«arly Gothic arch ; the sides sculptured with combats of warriors on horseback and
foot; a chariot, sphinxes, &c. Casts from the sculptured Bock-tomb at Myra, with
bilingual (Greek and Lydan) inscription.
Slffin JBoofM.— -The Elgin marbles, brought from the Parthenon at Athens by the
Earl of Elgin : some are the work of Phidias himself. (See in this room two models of
the Parthenouy each 12 feet long, made by B. C. Lucas, described in Bemark$ on tke
P P 2
580 CURIOSITIES OF LONDON.
Parthenon by R. C. Lucas, Sculptor ; Salisbury, 1844 : 1. The temple after the bom-
bardment in 1687 ; 2. The Parthenon restored.) The Metopes from the Frieze (15
originals and 1 cast), representing the battle of the Centaurs and Lapithse, in alto-
relievo; for the original the English Qoremment agent bid 10002. at the sale of the collec-
tion of the Count de Choiseul Gouffier ; but he was outbid by the Director of the French
Museum, where the metope now is. The Pfenathenaic Frieze, 524 feet in length, is
probably the largest piece of sculpture ever attempted in Greece : its men, women, and
children, in all costumes and attitudes ; horsemen, charioteers ; oxen and other Tictims
for sacrifice; images of the gods; sacred flagons, baskets^ &c., — ^have an astonishing
air of reality. Of the 110 horses, no two are in the same attitude : " they appear,"
says Flaxmau, " to live and move, to roll their eyes, to gallop, to pranoe, and curvet ;
the veins of their faces and legs seem distended with circulation." Here are about 32G
feet of the Frieze, 76 feet casts, and about 250 feet of the genuine marble which
Phidias put up.
" The British Mmeam," sajs ProflDMor Welcker, ** possesMS in the works of Phidias a tmsore with
which notbioRT can be oomptred In the whole range of ancient art." Flaxman said that these sealptnres
were *' as perfect representations of nature as it is possible to pat into the compass of the marole in
which they are executed— and nature, too, in its most beaatiftal form." Chantrejr spoke enthosiasticaUr
of " the exquisite judgment with which the artists of these seolptores had modified the style of workiofr
the marble, according to the kind and degree of light which would flill on them when in their plaoee."
Lawrence said that. " after looking at the finest sculptures In Italy, he found the Elgin marbles soperior
to anr of them." Canova said, in reply to an application made to him respecting their rnwir or restora-
tion, that ** it would be sacrilege in him or any man, to presume to touch them with a chiaeL"
Pedimental sculptures, placed upon raised stages : East, the birth of Minerva, Hype-
rion, and heads of two of his horses : Theseus, ideal beauty of the first order, the finest
figure in the collection, of which more drawings have been made than all the other
Athenian marbles put together : " the back of the Theseus is the finest thing in the
world." Head of a horse firom the chariot of Night, valued at 250/., the finest possible
workmanship. West pediment : Contest between Athena and Poseidon for the naming
of Athens ; the recumbent statue of the river god llissus, pronounced by Canova and
Ylsconti equal to the Theseus : torso^ supposed of Cecrops, grand in outline : fragment
of the head and statue of Bfinerva. Also, a capital and part of a shafl of a Doric
column of the Parthenon, piece of the ceiling, and Ionic shaft, from the Temple of
Erechtheus at Athens, imperfect statue of a youth, piece of a firieze from the tomb of
Agamemnon, exceedingly ancient : circular altars from Delos, bronze sepulchral urn,
very richly wrought : casts from the Temple of Theseus, the best preserved of all the
andent Athenian monuments ; the Wingless Victory and the Choragic monument of
Lydcrates ; from the Choragic monument of Thrasylluii, a colossal statue of Bacchus^
inferior only to the Phidian sculptures ; Eros (Cupid), discovered by Lord Elgin within
the AcropoUs (headless), has in the limbs the grace and elegance of the age of Praxi-
teles ; the Sigean inscription, most ancient Grecian, in the JBotuirophedan style :-— !.«•
the lines read as an ox passes fh>m one furrow to another.
To Haydon must be conceded the genius of instantly appreciating the beauty of the Blgin Marbles ;
vet the;y were utterW neglected until Canova, on seeing them, declared, " Sans doute^ is verity est tcllel
les accidents de la chair et les formes sont si vraies et si belles, aue ces statues produiront un grand
changement dans les arts. lis renverseront le syst^me mathdmaaque des antres antiques." Haydoa
soon roused the nublio interest in the sculptures, and they were purchased by Parliament for S6,000<.
" Tou have sarea the marbles," Lawrence said to Haydon, *' but it will rtJn you."— Haydon's AuUbio'
graphjf^ 1863.
Tuesdays and Thursdays in every week, and the whole month of September in every year (when dar-
light is usually the steadiest and strongest), are exclusively devoted t» artists and students In the Elgm
and Townley Galleries.
Sellemc JSoom.— The Marbles have been brought firam Qreeoe and its colonies^
exclusive of Athens and Attica. Bas-relieft of the battle of the Centaurs and Lapithse,
and the combat of the Gtreeks and Amazons, from among the ruins of the Temple of
Apollo Epicurius, near Phigalda ; built by Ictinus, contemporary with Phidias, and
architect of the Parthenon {Pa/ugamaa). Their historical value, representing the art
of the Praxitelian period, is scarcely less than that of the Parthenon marbles. In two
model pediments from the eastern and western ends of the Temple of Jupter Par-
hoUonius, in the Island of iBgina, are, west, 10 original statues, representing Greeks
and Trqjans contesting fbr the body of Patrodus ; east^ 6 figures, expedition of Hercu-
les and Telamon against Troy, these statues bong the only illustration extant of the
MUSEUM, TRJEI BRITISH. 581
armour of the heroic ages. In this saloon, also, are the Canning Marbles, or JSodroum
Sculptures, from Bodroum, in Asia Minor, the site of Halicamassus ; 11 bas-relieft
(combat of Amazons and Greek warriors), formerly part of the celebrated Mausoleom
erected in honour of Mausolos, King of Caria, by his wife Artemisia, B.C. 853 : it was
one of the Seven Wonders of the World. These, and other sculptures from Bodroum,
were presented by the Sultan to Sir Stratford Canning (whence their name), and by
bim to the British Museum.
Astyrian QaUeries^^Assyrian Sculptures, collected by Layard : fragments of the
disinterred Assyrian palaces of Nimroud (Nineveh) and Eouyunjik ; cuneiform (arrow-
headed) and other writing ; gypsum or alabaster bas-reliefs that lined the interior walls ;
detached sculptures ; ivories and other ornaments ; winged lions, weighing 15 tons each ;
winged bulls, each 14 feet high ; sculptured slabs of battle-pieces and sieges, combats,
treaties, and triumphs, lion and bull hunts, armies crossing rivers ; winged and eagle-
headed human figures ; religious ceremonies, sculptured obelisks, incription on a bull,
connecting the Assyrian dynasty of Sennacherib with Hezekiah of the Bible ; fragments
of a temple built by Sardanapalus, and a basalt Assyrian statue, closely resembling the
Egyptian style ; costumes, field-sports, and domestic life of 2000 years since. Here
also are a few stones with cuneiform inscriptions, excavated by Mr. Bich from the pre-
fixmied site of Nineveh, near Mosul, but previous to Mr. Layard's researches, ** a case
scarcely three feet square enclosed all that remained not only of the great city of
Nineveh, bat of Babylon itself \" (See Layard's Nineveh and its Bemains, MowU"
menis, ^c.) To these has been added a further collection from the same region, exca-
vated in 1853-55, by Mr. Hormuzd Bassam and Mr. W. K. Loftus, under the direc-
tion of Sir H. C. Bawlinson, K.C.B.
Egyptian Galleries, — ^Tlie monuments in this collection constitute on the whole the
xnost widely extended series in the range of Antiquity, ascending to at least 2000 years
before the Christian eera, and dosing with the Mohammadan invaaon of Egypt, A.D.
640. The Sculptures {horn Thebes, Kamac, Luxor, and Memphis, and 800 in number)
are placed in chronological order, from north to south : in the vestibule, early period ;
northern gallery, 18th dynasty ; central saloon, monuments of Barneses II. ; and in
the southern gallery, those posterior to that monarch, descending to the latest times
of the Boman empire. The Egyptian, Assyrian, and Ghreek Antiquities are thus ex-
hibited in three parallel lines; a fourth, or transverse line, along the southern extremity
of the others, being appropriated to Boman remains. Among the sculptures from
Egypt are, the celebrated head of Memnon, from Thebes, of fint-class Egyptian art.
The head and arm of a king, a statue originally 26 feet high. Amenoph III. seated
on his throne — ^the great Memnon in miniature. Two colossal red granite lions, conchant,
from Upper Nubia ; fine specimens of Early Egyptian art in animal forms. Breccia
sarcophagus, supposed tomb of Alexander the Great, carved with 21,700 characters.
The Bosetta Stone, black basalt, the most valuable existing relic of Egyptian history,
inscribed in hieroglyphics, the andent spoken language of Egypt, and in Greek, with
the services of Ptolemy Y. Epiphanes : the deciphering of which has afforded a key to
ChampoUion, Wilkinson, &c The Tablet of Abydos, givmg a chronological succession
of the monarchy. Sepulchral tablets and fragments of tombs ; Egyptian frescoes, painted
perhaps 3000 years ago, yet fresh in colour. Arragonite vases from the fourth dynasty.
Plaster casts taken in Egypt, and coloured after the originals. Here is a statue
of the son of Bameses the Second, about four feet high. He bears a standard on each
side ; it is of most beautiful workmanship, placed near the head of Memnon. It is in a
very good state of preservation, and is a beautiful spedmen of Egyptian Art. It is
curious as a lithological spedmen, the breccia being formed of the consolidated sand of
the desert, inclosing jasper, chert, and other siliceous pebbles.
Egyptian Rooms (two), upstairs, contain divinities, and royal personages, and sacred
animals; sepulchral remains; and miscellaneous objects, specially illustrative of the
domestic manners of the Egyptians ; mostly from the collections of Salt, Sams, and
Wilkinson. Here are mummies and mummy -cases, wooden figures from tombs, bronze
offerings, and porcelain figures; painted, gilt, stone, bronze, diver, and porcelain ddties;
figures of the jackal, hippopotamus, baboon, lion, cat, ram, &c. ; a coffin and body from
582 CUBI08ITIE8 OF LONDON.
tbe third Pyramid; model of an Egyptian hoose, granary, and yard; fumitnre, as
tables, stool^ chain, and head^rests, ooiicheB and pillows, keys, locks, hinges, holts, and
handles ; from the toilet, the black wig and box, caps, aprons, tunics, sandals, shoes,
oombe, pins, studi^ and cases for eye-lid paint ; vases and lamps, bowls and cnps, agri-
cnltnral implements, warlike weapons, writing and punting implements, working tools,
and weaving looms, toys, and murical instruments. A stand, with a cooked duck and
bread-cakes, from a tomb; sepulchral tablets, scarabei, and amulets; rings, necklaces,
and bracelets, and mummy ornaments. Above the WaU-cases are casts of battle-scene^
triumphs, and court ceremonies, cdonred after the originals, from temples in Nulna.
The Temple Collection, of antiquities, bequeathed to the BriUsh Museum in 1836
by the Hon. Sir William Temple, E.C.B. The majority of the specimens belong to
that large region of Lower Italy which, prior to the Roman dominion, was extensively
colonized and highly cultivated by tbe Greeks, and thence received the name of Magna
GrsBcia. They comprehend, therafore^ speoimeu of the arts of three different rtuom
the Etruscans, Qredis, and Romans.
Vase Rooms (two) contain Etruscan and Qraoo-Italian vases, painted fitmi the
myths or popular poetry of the day : classified into Early Italian, Black Etruscan, and
Red Etruscan ware ; varnished ware, meetly early ; Italian vases, of Archaic Greek
style; vases of Transition style, finest Greek, and the Basilicata and latest period.
(Vaux's Handbook.) Here are the ancient fictile vases purchased of Sir William
Hamilton in 1772, and then the largest collection known.
Tk« HamUUm Fom, on bdog examined io 1839 by H. Gerhard, waa foond to bear the name of each
penonace depicted on it ; from which it appears that the myth, or stoiy, is totally distinct fhnn that
awigmea to it by M. D'Hancaryille, in his scbedolee of the Vaaei of the Hamilton ooUection ; thus over-
turning hia theoiy, and reading a strange lesson to virtaoai and antiquaries.
Here also are Greek and Roman terra-oottas, of various epochs and styles. Above the
Wall-cases are painted ikc-similes, by Campanari, of entertainments from Etruscan tombs.
The Sarherim or Portland Vase, the property of the Duke of Portland, has been
deposited in the Museum since 1810.
The Portland Vote was foond aboat 1600, in a sarcopharos in a sepolehre nnder the Monte del Graao^
i^ miles ftom Some. It was deposited in the palace of the Barberini ikmily until 1770, wh»i it waa
J>urcha8ed by Byres, the antiquary ; and sold by nim to Sir William Hamilton, of whom it was bought,
br 18()0 guineas, bV the Dnchess of PorUand, at the sale of whose proper^ it waa bought in by the
family for 102M. The vase is 9f inches high and 7i inches in diameter, and has two handles, it is of
B glass loot IS distinct, and is thoo^t
the "
naa oeenpiacea m tne vase, 'ine scTcn ngurea, eacn 6 mcnes mgn, are saia oy some to mustrate tne
lablc of Thaddeos and Theseus ; br Bertoli, Proserpine and Pluto ; by Winckdmann, the nuptials of
Thetis and Peleus; Darwin, an aUeffory of Uib and Immortalitf ; others, Orpheus and Eurydioe; Foo-
broke, a marriage, death, and seoood marriage: Tetzi, the birth of Alexander Sererus, whoee cinerary
nm the vase is thought to be ; while Hr. Wmdus, F.B^ in a work published 1846, considers the scene
as a love-sick lady consulting Galen. The vase was engraved by Cipriani and Bartolozii in 1786 : copies
of it were executed by Wedrwood, and sold at 60 guineas each, the model for which cost 600 guineas s
there is a copy in the Brltisn and Mediieval Boom.
The Portland Vase was exhibited in a small room of the old Museum buildings until
February 7, 1845, when it was wantonly dashed to pieces with a stone by one AVlIliam
Uoyd; but the pieces being gathered up, the Vuse has been restored by Mr. Doubleday
io beautifully, that a blemish can scarcely be detected. The Vase is now kept in the
Medal Room. A drawing of the fractured pieces is preserved.
Bronze JZooM.^Figure8 of divinities, furniture, mirrors, tripods, candelabra, lamps
and vases, armour, personal ornaments, dsc; including copper-bronze lions, bronze
remains of a throne, fragments of glass vessels and of armour, <Uscovered by Layard
in Assyria. A large collection of bronze objects from Greece Proper, from Rome and
of the Roman period : and from the sepulchres of ancient Etruria, and the excavations
at Pompeii and Herculanetmi. These include fragments of statues; spear-heads^
daggers, helmets, and Roman eagles; steelyards, amphorse, and tripods; candelabra,
vases, votive figures, and statuettes ; mirrors and their cases ; the exquidte 798 bronzes
bequeathed by R. Payne Knight ; and the celebrated bronzes of Siris, from the south of
Italy. Miscellaneous Greek and Roman objects, including astragali of crystal, oameliau,
and ivory; dice, andently loaded ; tickets for the games; hair-pins and ivory busts ;
ancient glass vases and paterae; fragments of comdian, onyx, and jasper cups^ and a
MUSEUM, TEE BRITISH. 58S
crystal vessel holding gold; animals in bronze; styli for writing; keys, plates, enamel-
work ; Etruscan and Roman iibalsD and finger-rings. Above the Wall-cases are fiu;-
simile paintings of Oames, from tombs at Vida.
British and Medusval Boom, containing antiquities fonnd in Great Britain and
Ireland, and extending from the earliest period to the Norman Conquest ; also. Mediaeval
objects, English and foreign ; inc}uding
Celt« ; Btone kDives, arrow-heads, and hammerg: models of Celtic cromlechs, or sepolchres; paint-
ings of Plaa Newydd and Stonehenge; bronze celts, swords, dagvers, spear-heads, helmet, and baokler ;
half-baked pottery from British barrows; fHtfments of Boman ouildings : Kimmeridre coal-money; a
Coway stake tmrn the Thames; Roman service of plate; Roman glass; Saxon brooches. Medimal:
personal ornaments and weapons; ivorr diesemen and drauffhtsmen; paintings fh>m St. Stephen's
Chapel, Westminster: Dr. Dee's crystal ball and wax cakes; and (firom Strawberry Hill) the Show-stone
(caunel coal) into which Dee ** used to call his wfxA\M** Here also are tenure and state swords ; Limoges
enamels ; Venetian glass ; Alhambra tiles : Bow porcelain ; Wedgwood copT of the Portland Vase, and
twosnperb Chelsea poroelahi vases, valoea at 300 guineas, presented by Weagwood.
The JSarhf Christian CoUeetion coniMia a number of pieces of glass vases with orna-
ments in gold leaf, all discovered in the Catacombs of Rome. The snlgects on these
are chiefly from the life of our Lord, or antitypes from the Old Testament, such as
Jonah, Moses striking the rock. There are also figures of St. Peter and St. Paul, and
other saints connected with the Early Boman Church. Here is the famous Blacas
Collection of gems and coins, Ghreek and Roman bronzes, mural painting from Pompeii
and Herculanenm, sepulchral inscriptions and manuscripts, Greek vaseB, silver toilet
service of a Roman bride^ &c., purchased in 1866, for 48»000r.
The Mediaval Collection contains Sculpture and Carving, chiefly in ivory ; Paintings^
Metal-work, Matrices of Seals, Enamels, English Pottery, Venetian and German glass,
Italian Majolica, German Stoneware, &c.
fZ^ Ethnographical Boom contains objects illustrating the reli^^on, artsj, and in-
dustry of varions countries ; including the model of a moveable Indian temple ; a Chinese
bell, captured fitRn a Buddhist temple near Ningpo in 1S44; a model of Ndaon's ship,
the Victory, and a piece of its actual timber with a 401b. shot in it from the battle of
Tra&lgar; a plaster cast of the Shield of Achilles, modelled by Flaxman from the 17th
book of Homer's Iliad; a colossal gilt figure of the Burmese idol Gaudama; Chinese
fignres of deities, beggars, mandarins, and trinkets; Hindoo deities, measures, vessels,
and arms ; Chinese and Japanese matchlocks, bows and arrows, shoes, mirrors, screens,
and musical instruments; richly-decorated doth from Central Africa: a Foulah doak
from Sierra Leone; an Ashanteeloom, umbrellas, tobacco-pipes, fly-flappers, and sandals;
teiTa-ootta Mexican figures (mostly from Bullock's Museum) ; Aztec vases, idols, and
armaments; Peruvian mummies and silver imag^; musical instruments, weapons, tools^
ornaments, and costumes, from Guiana, the Marquesas and Sandmch Ishinds, Tiihiti
and the Friendly Isles, New Zealand and Australia, Borneo, New Guinea, the Pelew
Islands, Siam, Ac; and a tortoise-shell bonnet from the Navigators' Islands.
The Medal Boom contains a collection of Coins and Medals superior to that of
Yienna and Florence^ if not Paris. The nudeus of the British Museum collection waa
Sir Hans Sloane's coins, worth 70002. as bullion, to which were added Sir Robert Cot-
ton's coins; 6000 medals from the Hamilton collection; the Cracherode coins and
medals, valued at 60002.; coins from the Conquest to George III. (Roberts's), pur-
chased for 4000 guineas ; a series of Papal medals, and a collection of Greek coins ;
the Townley Greek and Roman coins; a vast collection of foreign coins, presented by
Miss Banks; Payne Knight's Greek coins; Rich's early Arabian, Parthian, and Sas-
aanian coins; medals and coins attached to the library of George IIL; Marsden'a
Oriental coins; Barnes's Bactrian coins; and contributions and purchases of finds of
Anglo-Saxon, Anglo-Gallic, and early English coins. The collection is arranged hi,
1. Andent coins — Greek in Geographical order, and Roman chronologically. 2. Modem
coins — ^Anglo-Saxon, EngMi, Anglo-Gallic, Scotch, and Iri^, and the coins of foreig^
nations, arranged according to countries: the Anglo*Saxon and English series is
complete from Ethelbert I. The great collection, with medals, 7700 spedmens,
formerly in the Bank of Enghind. Of Queen Anne's feurthings here are seven varietiea^
one only of which drculated, the others being pattern-pieces. S. Medals, including an
almost perfect series of British medals, besidra the Papal and Napoleonic medals. Here
is kept a gold snuff-box set with diamonds, and a miniature portrait of Napoleon« who
684 CURIOSITIES OF LONDON.
presented it to the Hon. Mrs. Darner, by whom it was bequeathed to the Hnsenn:!,
on condition that the portrait should never be copied. Also a gold snoff-box with a
cameo lid, presented by Pope Pins VI. to Kapo-ion, and by liim bequeathed to lady
Holland, with a card in Napoleon's liandwriting. Here are the engraved gems, antique
paste and glass, and gold trinkets, including the breastplate of a British chieftain.
"The ooiiu are a noble collection : here, as in the other departments of the Moseam, the aoUd value
of the collection consists in the equal and complete manner in which it covers the whole area of the
sntyectrmatter ; and in this respect it stands the highest among collections." — Times, 1363.
LiBBA&iss. — The Royal lAbrarif and general collection of Printed Books oocapy the
east and north sides of the ground-floor and the internal quadrangle. The King^t 1^
hrary is deposited in a magnificent ball 300 feet long and 65 feet wide in the centre;,
where are four Corinthian columns of polished Peterhead granite 25 feet bigb> with
Derbyshire alabaster capitals : the door-cases are marble, and the doors oak inbdd with
bronze. This library, the finest and most complete ever formed by a single individual,
is exceedingly rich in early editions of the classics, books from Caxton's prea% history
of the States of Europe in their respective languages, in Transactions of Academies,
and grand geographical collections,---80,000 volumes, exclusive of pamphlets : among
the Jesuits' books, purchased in 1768, was the Florence Homer of 1488. Here is one
of the most extensive and interesting collections of maps in Europe. The entire col-
lection cost 130,000^.; catalogue, 6 vols, folio.
An intereetinff Department is that devoted to Books inscribed with Aatographa. The rarest of all
ese is a copy or Florio's Montaigne's -Evsairs. printed in 1003, and bearing the aatogn|>h of William
Bhakspeare. Here, too, is the autograph ot a&a Jonson, in a presentation copy to John Florio of the
first edition of his Volpotu, printed in 1607. In other books we find the antographs of Bacon, Micfaael
Angelo, Calvin, Martin Lather, Philip Melancthon, Milton, Sir Isaac Newton, Sir Walter Soott, Volture,
ftc In this department are also some curious Proclamationa There is one issued in 171^ offering
100,0002. for the apprehension of the Pretender, Prince James, diould he attempt to land in England.
Another is a Proclamation of Prince Charles Edward, styling himself Prince of Wales, and offering
90,0001. for the apprehension of George II., who is therehi coolly styled the Elector of Hsnover, dateJ
August 22nd, 1746.
The Cfrenville Librartf, 20,240 volumes, cost 54,000^, was bequeathed to the Mu-
seum by the Right Hon. Thomas Grenville, whose bust is placed here. Among its
rarities are a Mazarine Latin Bible on vellum, the earliest printed Bible, and the
earliest printed book known (supposed Gutenberg and Fust, Mentz, 1455) ; also the
first Psalter, tbe first book with a date, and earliest printed in colours.
The General lAbrary ranks with tbe public libraries of Vienna and Berlin, and is
inferior only to those of Munich and Paris. Among the rarities is Coverdale's Bible,
1635, tbe first complete edition of the Scriptures in English ; The Game and Playe
qf the Cheese, the first book printed in English, from Caxton's press, 1474; the first
edition of Chaucer's Tales of Canterhurye, only two perfect copies known, &c;
pamphlets and periodicals of the Civil Wars of Charles I. ; the musical libraries of Sir
John Hawkins and Br. Bumey ; Garrick's old Plays ;* Tracts of the Bevolutiouary
History of France. The Library is very rich in early folios and quartos of Shakspeare :
there are the folios of 1628, 1682, 1664, and 1696. The quartos comprise the unique
Venus and Adonis of 1602 ; the rare second edition of the same poem of 1694 ; the
Jlomeo and Juliet of 1697 ; and many others of fabulous value. Books of Divinity
are bound in blue. History in red. Poetry in yellow, and Biography in olive-coloured,
leather. The catalogues of the several collections are in themselves a Ubrary. Tbe
catalogue, 7 vols. 1813-irl9, has been expanded, by interleaving and manuscript entries,
into 67 folio volumes. About 20002. is expended annually in adding old and foreign
works to the library ; and, under the Copyright Act, 5 and 6 Vic. cap. 48, a copy of
every book, pamphlet, sheet of letterpress, sheet of music, chart, or plan, published
within her M^esty's dominions, must be delivered to the British Museum.
" The printed book Librsry is rich in early and rare editions. It hoasts that it can challenge the best
library of any nation in the world to show a series of the books of any foreign nation that ean oowpare
* The collection of Shakspeare's Plays are for the most part ttom tbe collection of David Garrick; and
it is not generally known that he obtained these precious pamphlets — fbr such they are in form— fVom
the trustees of the Dulwich Gallery, who, as recorded In the 04nttemutn'$ Macaafmt of that period,
exchanged Alleyne's collection of stage plays for what they thought, in true diurchwarden's phrase,
Boraethlng more nseftal — ^riz., some encycIoMedias of the period, and a collection of voyages and travels,
then modem. This fact gives a threefold value to the British Museum collection, as, besides Shakspoare's
plays, the collection exchanged comprised several acting copies of older dramatists belonging to Alleyne
hlinsel^ and used by him in perfbrmanoe.
miSEUM, THE BBITI8E. 585
▼ith those on the shelreg in London. Oat of Russia, Hongazy, Germany, and France, respective] j, there
ftre no such Russian, Magyar, German, or French lihraries as those of the British Moseum."— 2Y«ef.
The Newspapers are the largest collection in England. It wag commenced by Sir
Hnm Sloane ; and to it, in 1813, was added Dr. Barney's collection, pnrohased for
1000/. ; since which the Commissioners of Stamps have transferred to the Mnsenm
copies of all the stamped newspapers. The oldest in the collection is a Venetian Ga-
zette of the year 1670. Dr. Birch's Historical Collections, No. 4106, contain The
jEnglish Mercurie of July 23, 1588, long believed "the earliest English Newspaper,'*
now proved to be a forgery. In Dr. Barney's library is Newes out of Holland,
May 16, 1619, the earliest newspaper printed in England ; and The News of the
Present Week, May 23, 1622, the first weekly newspaper in England.
The Rettding Room^ in the internal quadrangle of the Museum, occupies an area of
48,000 superficial feet. It originated with Mr. Panizzi, who suggested building a flat,
loM', circular Reading-room in the quadrangle; the architect of the Trustees, Mr.
Sydney Smirke, approved of Mr. Panizzi's suggestion, but proposed a dome and glazed
vaulting, to give more air to the readers aud a more architectural character to the
interior. This grew, on maturer consideration, into the much larger dome as erected
from Mr. Smirke's drawings, and under his direction as architect. It occupied three
years in construction, and cost about 150,000^.
The Reading-room is circalar. Tlie entire building does not occupy the whole quad-
rangle, there being a clear interval of from 27 to 30 feet all round, to give light and
air to the surrounding buildings, and as a guard against posuble destruction by fire
from the outer parts of the Museum. The dome of this reading-room is 140 feet in
diameter, its height being 106 feet. In this dimension of diameter it is only in-
ferior to the Pantheon of Rome by 2 feet ; St. Peter's being only 139 ; Sta. Maria,
in Florence, 139; the tomb of Mahomet, Bejapore, 135; St. Paul's, 112; St. Sophia,
Constantinople, 107, and the Church at Darmstadt, 105. The new reading-room
contains 1,250,000 cubic feet of space ; its " suburbs," or surrounding libraries,
750,000. The building is constructed principally of iron, with brick arches be-
tween the main ribs, supported by 20 iron piers, having a sectional area of 10 super-
ficial feet to each, including the brick casing, or 200 feet in all. This saving of space
by the use of iron is remarkable, the piers of support on which our dome rests only
thus occupying 200 feet, whereas the piers of the Pantheon of Rome fill 7477 feet
of area, and those of the tomb of Mahomet 5593. Upwards of 2000 tons of iron
were employed in the construction. The roof is formed into two separate spherical
and concentric air-chambers, extending over the whole surface; one between the
external covering and brick vaulting, the object being the equalization of tempera-
ture during extremes of heat and cold out-of-doors; the other chamber, between
the brick vaulting and the internal visible surface, being intended to carry off the
vitiated air irom the reading-room. This ventilation is effected through apertures
in the sofBtes of the windows, and at the top of the dome ; the bad idr passing
through outlets around the lantern.
The Reading-Boom is world famous, and does not need description or praise, thoogh the ing«nioas
fire-proof library that surrounds it may be less known, and is, in fkct, part of the vast improvement
created hj Mr. Panizzi when his Beading-Boom was raised. That Beading- Room, with its liffht and
cheerful <j[ome, is the type of the modem and the comfortable, not to say social, as the venerable chamber
of the Bodleiui is of the older, more severe, and more secluded form of public study. The new library
is the most ingenioos application of glass and iron to the purposes of economizing space and providhig
effective accommodation for and sulfident light to an enormous number of books that was ever Invented.
The space between the dome of the reading-room and the walls of the Museum quadrangle is occupied
by a series qfpsrallol wrought-iron bookcases, with passages between them, and a few square courts left
in pktces. The floors of the passages are formed of iron gratings, and each passage and the adjacent
bookcases are lit Ih>m the rooC This vertical light penetrates to the base of the building, through the
successive galleries or passages, that in some places are in tiers one over the other up to three or four
stories. This most ingenious library is calcukted to hold f^om 800,000 to 1,000,000 volumes, and by its
method of construction solves the problem of future extension for the library, even at its present rapid
growth of 20,000 volumes in the year. Calculated to hold the books that mav be added for the next forty
years, this new library thus shows how another million of books may after that be accommodated on a
space of about three-quarters of an a/;re.— 2^««f, 1863. There are twentv-flve miles of book-shelves.
The Beading- Boom is open everyday, except on Sundays, on Ash Wednesdays, Good Fridays, Christ-
mas-day, and on any Fast or ThankAgiving days ordered by authority ; except also between the 1st and
7th of M ey. the 1st and 7th of September, and the 1st and 7th of January, inclusive. The hours are from
9 till 7 during May, June, July, and August (except on Saturdays, at 6), and from 9 till 4 during the rest
686 CURIOSITIES OF LONDON.
of the Tear. To obtain admiinon, penone are to aend their applications in writing, epecUyin^ their
Ghxistum and somamea, rank or profeision, and places of abode, to the principal Librarian ; or, in his
absence, to the Secretary ; or. hi his absence, to the senior onder-Iibrarian ; who will either inunediatelr
admit such persons, or lay taeir ^plications before the next meeting of the Trustees. Breij persm
applying is to prodaoe a reoomm^oation satisfkctory to a Trastee or an oflScer of the estabhahm«nt.
Applications derectiTe in this respect will not be attended to. Permission will in general be granted for
six months, and at the expiration of this term firesh application is to be made for a renewal. The tickets
fitren to readers are not transferable^ and no person can be admitted without a ticket. Persona under
8 years of age are not admissible.
The persons whose recommendations are aooepted are Peers of the realm, Membera of Pazliaxnmt,
Judges, Queen's Counsel, Masters in Chancery or any of the great law-oflBoers of the Crown, any one of
the Ib Trustees of the British Museum, the Lord Mayor and Aldermen of London, rectors of parishes in
the metropolis, prindpals or heads of colleges, eminent physicians and surgeons, and Boyal Aoademieians»
or any gentleman in superior post to an ordinary derk in any of the public offices.
Nichols's Handbook for BaatUn, published in 1866, details the regulations and arrangements aiTeet-
Ing the use of the room, and describes the plans and scopes of the Tsnous catalognea of the printed books
■iM manuscripts in the Katioual Librazy.
Maititscbipts.— The Mannacript Library is the largest, and both in respect to the
intrinsic value of the documents it contains, and to the order in which they are ar-
ranged and kept> is inferior to none in the world : the Cottoman Collection is espe>
dally rich in historical documents ftx)m the Saxons to James I. ; registries of English
monasteries ; the charters of the Saxon Edgar and King Henry I. to Hyde Abbey,
near Winchester, written in golden letters ; and " the Durham Book," a copy of the
Gospels in Latin, written about 800, splendidly illuminated in the style of the Anglo-
Saxons by the monks of Lindisfame, and believed once to have belonged to the Vene-
rable Bede. The collection is rich also in royal and other original letters. The
Sarleian Collection abounds in geographical and heraldic MSS.; in visitatiotcs of
counties, and English topography ; legal and parliamentary proceedings ; abbey
registers; MSS. of the classics, including one of the earliest known of the Odyeee^ of
Homer ; in missals^ antiphonaries, and other service-books of the Romish Church ; and
in old English poetry. Also two very early copies of the Latin Gospels, written in
golden letters ; splendidly illuminated MSS. ; an extensive mass of Correspondence ;
nearly 800 Bibles and biblical books, in the Chaldaic, Hebrew, Greek, Arabic, and
Latin, in Manuscript; nearly 200 volumes of the writings of the Fathers of the
Church ; and works on the arts and sciences. Here is the oldest spedmen of a Miracle-
Play in English, of the earlier part of the reign of Edward IIL The Shanean Col-
lection consists chiefly of MSS.' on natural history, voyages, travels, and the arts, and
also on medicine. It comprises the chief of Ksmpfer's MSS., with the voluminous
medical collection of Sir Theodore Mayerne, and the annals of his practice at the Court
of England from 1611 to 1649 ; also sdentific and medical Correspondence, and his-
torical MSS. ; the drawings of animals are beautifully rich and accurate : two volumes
on vellum, by Madame Merian, contain the insects of Surinam. 2^ Royal MSS,
contain the collection by our kings, from Richard II. to George II. ; including the
Codex Alexandrinus, in 4 quarto volumes of fine vellum, written, probably, between
A.D. 300 and ▲.p. 500, and presumed to be the most andent MS. of the Greek Bible
now extant in uncial character : it was a present from Cyril, patriarch of Constanti-
nople to King Charles I. Other MSS. came into the royal possession at the dis-
solution of the monasteries. Old scholastic divinity abounds in the coUectiofn ; and
many of the volumes are superbly illuminated in a succesdon of periods to the 16th
century. Here also are several of the domestic music-books of Henry YIII. ; and the
Rasilicon Doron of James I. in his own handwriting. The Lansdowne CoUectioj^
purchased in 1807 for 4925/., consists of the Burghley and CsBsar papers ; the MSS. of
Bishop Kennet; numerous valuable historical documents; and about 200 Chinese
drawings. Here are Hardyng's Chronicle, presented by the clironider to Eling Henry
VI. ; a copy of the very rare French version of the Bible, upon vellum, translated by
Baoul de Prede for Charles V. of France ; also five volumes of Saxon homilies, tran-
scribed by Mr. Elstob and his sister ; and a fac-simile of the Vatican Virgil, made by
Bartoli in 1642. The Hargreave MSS,, added in 1813, contain, besides early Law
Reports, an abridgment of equity practice, in 45 volumes, by Sir Thomas Sewell,
Master of the Rolls. The Bwmey MSS., collected by the Rev. Charles Burney, and
purchased in 1818» consist chiefly of the Greek and Latin classics, induding the
Townley Momer, a MS. of the Iliad dmilar to that of the Odtfs^ey in the Harleian
MUSEUM, TEE BBITI8H. 587
collection (cost GOO gnineas); also two early MSS. of Greek rhetoridaxu; a volome of
the mathematical tracts of Pappas; and a magnificent Greek MS. of Ptolem/s Geo-
grapliyf enriched with maps of the 15th century. The Oriental MSS, include the
valuable collection made hy Mr. Rich while Consul at Bagdad, and comprising several
Syriac copies of the Scriptures; also Arabic and Peruvian MSS. of great valuer be-
queathed by Mr. J. F. Hull in 1827. Here also are MSS, qf French Miriory amd
ZitercUure, bequeathed by the Earl of Bridgewater in 1829. The Moward-Amndel
MSS,, acquired from the Royal Society in 1831, more than 500 volumes in every branch
of learning. In illuminated works, the Collection in the British Museum is not sur-
passed, in the art of almost every age from the 4th, or certainly the 8th century to the
16th. Even the collection of Paris, or the Vatican itself, is not superior to that in our
Museum, which is the most oompr^ensive in existence. The Oriental manuscripts are
of inestimable value.
The Ancient BoUi and Chartere of the Museum, many thousands in number, partly
from the Cottonian, Harleian, and Sloanean ooUeoUons, illustrative of English history,
monastic and other property, are separately catalogued.
Magna Charia, if not the original, a copy made when King John's seal was affixed
to it, was acquired by the British Museum with the Cottonian Library. It was nearly
destroyed in the fire at Westminster in 1731 ; the parchment is much shrivelled and
mutilated, and the seal is reduced to an almost shapeless mass of wax. The MS. was
carefully lined and mounted; and in 1733 an excellent fac-timile of it was published
by John Fine, surrounded by inaccurate representations of the armorial ensigns of the
25 barons appointed as securities for the due performance of Magna Charta. An im-
pression of tluBfac-nmile, printed on vellum, with the arms carved and gilded, is placed
opposite the Cottonian original of the Great Charter, which is now secured under glass.
It is about 2 feet square, is written in Latin, and is quite illegible. It is traditionally
stated to have been bought for fourpence, by Sir Robert Cotton, of a tailor, who was
about to cut up the parchment into measures ! But this anecdote, if true, may refer
to another copy of the Charter preserved at the British Museum, in a portfolio of royal
and ecclesiastical instruments, marked Augustus II. art 106; the original Chaxter
is believed to have been presented to Sir Robert Cotton by Sir Edward I)ering, Lieut.-
Qovemor of Dover Castle ; and to be that referred to in a letter dated May 10, 1630»
extant in the Museum lAhnrj, in the volume of Correspondence^ Julius C. III. foL 191.
The Comminloners on the Pablie Records regarded the original of Magna Charta preserved at
Lincoln to be of superior anthoritT to either of those in the British Museum, on aooount of serenil
words and sentences being inserted in the body of that Charter, which in the latter are added at tba
foot, with reference>marks to the four places where they were to be added. These notes, however, poa-
siblT nuty prove that one of the Mnseom Charters was really the first written, to which those Important
additions were made immediately previous to the sealing on Runnemede, and therefore the actual
ori^nal whence the more perfect transcripts were taken.— Richard Thomson, Author of ^» Sittorieal
JSatap OH tk€ Magna CkaHa ^f King John, ipe. 1829.
In the Musetun, also, is the original Bull, in Latin, of Pope Innocent III. receiving
the kingdoms of England and Ireland under his protection, and granting them in fee
to King John and his successors, dated 1214^ and reciting King John's charter of
fealty to the Church of Rome, dated 1218. Ako, the original Bull, in Latin, of Pope
Leo X. conferring the title of Defender of the Faith upon Henry YIII.
The Donation Manuscripts include Madox's collection for 1^ History of the Ex*
chequer ; Rymer's materials for his Fcadera, used and unused ; the historical and bio-
graphiad MSS. of Dr. Birch; the Decisions of the Judges upon the Claims after the
Great lire of London in 1666 ; also Sir William Musgrave's Obituary ; Cole's collec-
tion for a history of Cambridge and Cambridgeshire, and an Athena Cantabrigienses s
besides many Coptic and other aniaent MSS. taken from the French in Egypt ;
Ducarel's abstract of the Arcbiepiscopal Registers at Lambeth Palace ; and a long
series of Calendars of the original rolls from the 1st of Henry VIII. to the 2nd of
James I. Ako Linacre's translation of Galen's Methodus Medendi, on spotless
vellum ; the presentation copies of Henry YIII. and Cardinal Wolsey : the former
illuminated with the royal arms, the latter with the Cardinal's hat.
Here are — ^the Bible written by Alcuin for Charlemagne, large folio, 449 leaves of
vellum, said to have oocupied 20 years in tnmscribing, and illuminated. Psalters of
Henry YI. and Henry VIII. ; and Prayer-books of Lady Jane Grey and Queen Eliza-
588 CUBI08ITIE8 OF LONDON.
beth. The Breviary of Isabella of Castile, 1496-97 ; a profusely adorned speamen of
Fleniisb and Spanish art. The Bedford Missal, a Book of Hours, written and sump-
tuously illuminated in France for the Begent, John Duke of Bedford, and bis Dacbess,
Anne of Burgundy, between 1423 and 1430. MS. of Valerius Maximns, splendidly
illuminated. Original Letters of all the great Beformers; the English Kings; and
Poets and Philosophers. The MS. of " paper-sparing " Pope's Homer, written on the
backs and covers of letters. Three original assignments : Milton's Pantdite Lost to
Simmons ; Dryden's Virgil to Tonson ; and Goldsmith's Siriary of Sminent Penomt
to Dodsley. Selections from the Rupert and Fairfax correspondence, 1640-49, indod-
ing letters of Charles I., Charles II., Fairfax, and Hyde (Lord Clarendon). The original
marriage-contract of Charles I. when Prince of Wales. The pocket-book taken from the
Duke of Monmouth after the battle of Sedgmoor, certified in the handwriting of James IL
Papyri, — In the Egyptian Boom is a framed specimen of this style of writing; and
among the MSS. is a Greek papyrus, probably of B.0. 135, containing the tmnslatinn
of a deed of sale; and a book of sheets of papyrus sewn together, brought from i^yp^
and bearing a copy in Greek of part of the Psalms of David. Several Egyptian papyri,
written in the bieroglyphical, hieratical, enchorial, or demotic character, framed and
glazed, are arranged in the staircase leading to the Print-Room.
Thx Pbikt-Booh has only been an independent department nnce 1837. In 1836
was purchased fW)m the Messrs. Smith, the Dutch and Flemish portions of Mr. Sheep-
shanks' collection for 5000^. Valuable additions have unce been made, and the Pk-tnt-
Room now contains the most perfect collection known of the works of the EngraTers of
the early Italian, German, Dutch, and Flemish Schools. Among the Curiosities are,
in the Early Italian School, an engraved silver plate (a Roman Catholic Pax), by
Maso Finiguerra, 3| inches high by 2| inches wide, sold in 1824 for 300 guineas. An
impression in sulphur, a similar subject, the first step in the discovery in tlus farandi
of printing, cost 250 guineas. Another similar subject-, printed on paper, probably the
earliest exemplar known, cost 300 guineas. Specimens of this description are much
more numerous in the British Museum than in all other collections combined. JEarly
Oerman School : works of F. Van Bocholt (1466), Martin Schoengauer, Israel van
Meeken, Albert Durer (a beautiful series, including some unfinished plates), Lucas van
Leyden, &c. Dutch and Flemish Schools : works of Rembrandt, worth probebly from
15,000^ to 20,00OZ.; the large portrait of the Dutch writing-master Coppenal is
valued at 500 guineas. French School : an admirable series of etchings by the hand
of Claude. English School : works of Sir Robert Strange and Woollett; prints after
the pictures of Sir Joshua Reynolds, West» and Sir Thomas Lawrence ; 4000 prints
after Stothard.
The Print-Room also contains an excellent representative series illustrative of Mez-
zotint Engraving : specimens by the inventor. Count Sieg^n, and by its earliest prac-
tisers, Prince Rupert, the Canon Fnrstemberg, &c., are remarkably fine and numerous.
Also, an extensive series of British Portraits and British Topography. Some thousand
drawings and prints collected and bequeathed by Mr. Crowle, cost upwards of 7000/^
including some of Turner's earliest drawings. Original Drawings by Raphael, Albert
Durer, Holbein, Rubeus, Rembrandt, Vandyke ; and some beautiful designs by Claude,
a portion of his Liber Veritatis, Here are the finest specimens in the world of Ostade
and Backhuysen ; cost 200 guineas each. In an adjoining room is a small selection of
the most capital drawings, framed and glazed. In the Print-Room, also^ is a carving
in hone-stone (Birth of John the Baptist) by Albert Durer, dated 1510, a wonderful
cutting in high relief, which cost 500 guineas ; also, a beautifully chased silver Cap,
attributed to Benvenuto Cellini. The whole contents of the Print- Room are worth
considerably more than 100,0002. They con only be seen by very few persons at a
time, and by particular permission.
The first Keeper of the Printe was Mr. Alexander, so well known for his Views and OMtmnea of
China. He was succeeded by Mr. J. T. Smith, the topographer, and aatiior of the amusing Life a^td
Timet cf NolUkent, Mr. Tonne Ottl^, the eminent collector, and aathor of the Sarljf Hu&rj qf En-
graving^ was his successor ; and ne was followed by Mr. Henry Jozi, to whoee energy a large amount
of the present prosperity of this department is due. On his decease in 1845, the post was given to Mr.
Carpenter, F.SJL, Keeper, to whose attainments and kindness all visitors to the Print-Boom will bear
ample testimony. Mr. Carpenter died in 1S6& The present keeper is Mr. O. Beid.
MUSEUMS, S89
Here are a few small portraitg— viz., Geoffrey Chaucer, 1 400, a wnall whole-length
on panel ; a limning of Frederic III. of Saxony, by L. Cranach, Moli^re, Corneille,
an unknown head by Dobson, — all on panel ; with the portrait of a Pope or Cardinal.
juiKccr, ana wmuun weess; XMOvemDer, ueeemDer, janoanr, and i<eDruanr, lO to 4; Sept
October, March, April, 10 to 6; May, Jime, July, and Aariut, 10 to 6 : closed the first week in Janoary,
May, and September ; and on Christmas Day, Good Friday, and Ash Wednesday ; and on any special
Fast or TbanksgiTlng Days. The VlsitorB' Book is in the Hall.
A listof DescriptiTe Catalogues, Ao^ pablished by the British Mosenm is appended to the Synopsis;
with a list of the prices of casts and photographs from ancient marbles, bronzes, Ac. in the Museum.
A list of oUects added to the sereral ooileotions in each year is printed in the Parliamentary Betum,
usually in Apiil or May.
Beneath the portico of the Museum have been let up casta from portions of the
ftonouB Lion, which was erected on the sepulchre of the Boeotians who fell in the Battle
of ChflBTonea, B.O. S38 : a mound was raised, and a gigantic lion set up on its
summit : the mound was excavated, and the fragpnents found are in almost the finest
style of Qreek art. This lion is placed dose by that lion of Cnidus, which is thought
to be of earlier date.
Principal Librarian and Secretary, Mr. J. Winter Jones, who succeeded Mr. P&nizz
in 1866. Superintendent of Natural History, Professor Richard Owen*
MUSEUMS,
ADELAIDE GALLERY ov Psactioai. Scibnce (thx), AdeUdde-street, Strand, was
built by Jacob Perkins, the engineer, and opened by a Society in 1832, for the
exhibition of Models of Inventions, works of Art, and specimens of Novel Manufieusture.
Here^ in a canal, 70 feet long, and containing 6000 gallons of water, were shown
steamboat models, with dock-work machinery; experimental steam-paddles; lighthouse
models^ &c. Next were exhibited the combustion of the hardest sted ; the compression
of water; a mouse in a diving-bell; steam sugar-mill and gas-cooking apparatus; a
model of the Liverpool and Manchester Railway; dectro-magnets ; a mechanical
trumpet; a magic bust; models, from the Temples of Egypt to the Thames Tnnnd ;
looms at work; mummy-doth 2000 years old; and Carey's Qxy-hydrogen Microscope,
shown on a disc 17 feet diameter ; automatic ship and sea, &c
Here Perkitu^i 8i$am-Qu% was exhibited, propdling balls with fbnr times greater force than that of
iranpowder, the steam being raised to from 900 to COOlfaa. to the square inch ; and the balls, on reaching
the cast-iron target, fired at a distanoe of 100 feet were reduced to tlie substance of tin-foil. It was
possible to propd 4S0 balls in a minute, or SELSOO balls in an hoar; and the gun was promised to mow
down a regiment in less than ten minutes I The Duke of Wellington predicted Its Ihiiure in war&re.
A IMmg BUeMcal Sd (Grmnotoa) was brought here from South America in 1838 ; Its length was
40 Inehea, and it resemblea In appearanoe dark pace and btown plush. Professor Faraday obtahied
from it a moct intense electrio spark ; and bT one shock not only was the needle of a galvanometer de-
flected, bat chemical aotioin and magnetlo inanction were obtained. The eel died March 14^ 1842. In
1770, a living Qymnotoa was exhibited in London, fit. each visitor.
AvATOXiOAL MusxincB, mostly from the Continent, are often exhibited in London;
and Anatomical Collections are attached to the Hospitals.
Ahtiquabisb, Socibtt'b, Museth, Somerset House, contuns Egyptian, Greek, and
Etruscan antiquities; Roman antiquities, mostly found in Britain; British and Anglo-
Roman remains; hair of Edward IV., and fragment of his queen's (Elizabeth) coffin;
dagger, Ac, found near the site of Sir W. Walworth's residence; stone-shot fnmk the
Tower moat; brass-gilt spur from Towton battle-field; reputed sword of Cromwdl;
Bohemian astronomical clock, 1625 ; presumed Caxton woodcut-block ; matrices of mo-
disDTal seals; decorative tiles found in London; coins, medals, and provincial tokens;
Worcester Clothiers' Compan/s pall, and human skin from the doors of Worcester
Cathedral; West Indian antiquities and curiosities; geological specimens (elephant's
fossil teeth from PaU Mall) ; Porter's map of London (Charles I.). A synopsis of the
contents of the Museum is presented to the Fellows of the Society.
Among the old pictures are a "Greek paypting on wood;** folding Picture of Preaching at Paul's
Cross, and Prooesaion of James I., 1616 ; the Fire of London, mm near the Temple ; 26 ancient pictures
(Kerrick's). Portraits of Philip the Good of Bnrgundj, Henry V. of England, Henry VI., Edward VI.,
Manaret of York, Blchard IIL, Henry VII. (Ibur portraits), Mary of Austria, Ferdhiand the CathoUo^
Loals XI1.» Francis I., Queen Mary, WiUiam Powlett, Msorquls of Winchester («m Catalogue, by 0.
590 C17BI08ITIE8 OF LONDON.
Sobuf). Dnwinn of andent muni painttoirt in St. Stephen's Gbapd, Westmimter {§90 CatmUtgus^
br A. W«T, FJ3.AI) ; portraits of distinguiflhod Antiqnariet ; the Terj curlooB preecriptioni ordered for
Cnarlei II. on his deathbed, signed by 16 doctors {MetUcorum Chonu), the names, according to eooit
etiquette, being written at fall length; and not, as ordhiarilr indicated, by initials only. Among " the
Milton Papers^ presenred here is the signature of John lionyan to a memorial to Cromwell and the
Council oithe Army, dated 1663.
AVTIQUITIES, LoKDOK. — This extensive collection of Ronuin and Medisval relka^
was formed by Mr. Charles Roach Smith, at 5, Liverpool-street, City. It consists
chiefly of objects illustrative of the domestic and social life and customs of the inhabi-
tants of London in the time of the Romans and during the Middle Ages. In the first
of these divisions are a bronze shield and weapons from the Thames; remarkably fine
bronze statuettes of Apollo and Mercury; a bronze hand of colossal size; a i>air of
forceps elaborately decorated with busts of gods and goddesses, and with heads of
animals; an extensive series of fictile vessels, among which are embossed red bowls and
vases of great beauty and rarity ; wall-puntings fi*om bouses, and tiles for oondncting
the heated air to the apartments ; flat glass, such as the Romans, or their predecessors,
used for windows ; also other Roman glass. Some of the tiles used in the buildings are
stamped fb. bbit. lok., and are remarkable as presenting, perhaps, the earliest example
extant of an abbreviation of the word Londinium, now London. The leather sandals are
rare and curious specimens of Roman costume. Steel styli for writing, personal orna-
ments, and many examples of coloured and ornamented glass, are also worthy of
reference ; while the coins, chiefly from the Thames, include rare types. Of the later
antiquities, the Saxon knives, swords, and spears present some uncommon examples.
There is also a rival to the celebrated Alfred Jewel in the Ashmolean Moseam at
Oxford, in an onche, or brooch, of gold flhgree wosk, set with pearls and enclosing a
portrait of a regal personage, or possibly a saint, exquisitely worked in opaque, coloured,
vitreous pastes. This valuable relic, and some Norman bowls in bronze, preserved in
this collection, have been engraved in the Archaoloffia. Bone skates curiously illustrate
Fitzstephen's account of an old City pastime, as practised on the ice on the site of
Moorfields ; and the cuir houilli, or stamped leather, shows how artistically this nseful
material was worked in the Middle Ages. The shoes of the time of Edw^ud III. and
Richard II. aro elegant in their ornamentation ; and one is covered with mottoes in
Latin and in Norman French, and with designs of groups of figures. The Pilgrims'
Signs, in lead, form an almost unique series, illustrative of an old religious observance;
«nd there are some fine early leaden Tokens of London tradesmen. A few of the
objects have been engraved in the Collectanea Antigua ; and an illustrated Catalogue
-of the whole has been printed, for subscribers. The Collection is now in the British
Museum.
AscHfOLOGiCAX AssociATioir Ain> Institutb. — Neither of these Sodeties possesses
a Museum of noteworthy specimens. The Institute has presented its principal articles
to the British Museum, for the room of British Antiquities. Eadi Sodety, however,
usually assembles a Museum in the city or town wherdn is held its annual meeting.
At the Booms of the Archaeological Institnte, M, Snilblk-ftreet, in laSlL was exhibited the F^fevenq
IfttMicfli, illustrative of the hlstoiy of Art, and consisting of Egyptian remaws, purely artiatic ; Etrascaa
remains, principally in bronze; engraved gems; Egyptian, Assyrian, Babylonian, ancient Pereian,
Etruscan, Greek, and Boman remains. The coUeotion comprises also a noble set of lii^oUca ware, twenty-
five pieces in number, two painted by Giorgio, two others bv Banti, and seTeral after dengns by
F. Franda; a verr curious case of niello-work, one piece of which belonged to Lxdsi Sforza, Duke of
Milan ; many curious terra^cottas ; some striking ^zantine objects; artistic antiquities illustratlTe of
art in Hindostan, China, Persia, &c. &o.; a maaa of Celtic objects; and a rare assemblage of Hun-
garian, Transylvanian, and Sclavlc coins.
The British AxcheBological Association, 32, Sackville-street, Hocadilly, was estab-
lished in 1843 ; and in the same year The Archcsologicdl Institute qf Great Britain and
Ireland, 1, Burlington Gardens. Each Society publishes its journal quarterly. The
Surrey Arch(Bological Society, 8, Danes Inn, Strand, was established in 1853 ; and
The London and Middlesex Areh<Bological Society in 1856, 22, Hart-street, Blooms-
bury. The objects of these several societies are cognate ; each paying special attention
to the locality spedfied in the title.
Abohiteots, British, Royal Inbtititte Museitm, No. 9, Conduit-street, con-
tains a series of busts and portraits of architects; an original statuette in terra-cotta
MUSEUMS. 691
of Inigo Jones, by Bysbraeck ; medals, &c., of Schadow and Perrier ; examples of Con-
tinental marbles; two flutes of the Parthenon; "g^wing stone" f^m Hieropolis;
anriferoas quartz from Califbmia ; building-stones, including 117 specimens whence was
chosen the stone for the New Palace at Westminster; casts of ornaments irom ancient
and medieval buildings; models of public buildings^ roo&, and scaffoldings; apparatus
for painting the dome of St. Paul's Cathedral, Ac
ABcmTSCTUBAii MusETTH (ths), South Eeusington, originated by Mr. Q. Q. Scott,
F.S.A., was' opened in 1853, as an exhibition and study for workmen sketching and
modelling, in connexion with a School of Art for Architectural Workmen. The leading
objects of this Museum are planter casts of foliage, figures, &c. ; casts or impressions of
ancient seals or gems; tracings of stained glass, wall decorations, ornamental pave-
ments, &C. ; rubbings of brasses and incised stones ; specimens or casts of ancient metal-
work and pottery ; photographs, or other faithful drawings; architectural books, prints,
Ac, Here are casts firom eil^ies in our Cathedrals, Westminster Abbey, and a beauti-
ful selection from the Chapter House; panels from the Baptisteiy gates at Florence;
figures and details from the French Cathedrals, casts from Venice, &c. The Museum
is supported by architects, builders, and sculptors; and small subscriptions from
students, carvers, and other artist-workmen.
Abhottsiss :— 1. At theHallof the Armourers andBraders* Company, Coleman-street,
where is Northcote's well-known picture of the Entry into London of Bichard II. and
Bolingbroke ; 2. Artillery Company's Museum {see p. 25).
Abiatio Sooiett (Boyal), 6, New Burlington-street. This Museum contains
oriental coins and medals, marbles and inscriptions; armour and weapons, including
Malay and Ceylonese spears, and an entire suit of Persian armour ; Ceylonese jingals,
and Hindoo statues. The public are admitted on Tuesday, Wednesday, or Thursday,
by Members' tickets.
AtTTO0BJLPH8.-7-The collections in the metropolis are too numerous for us to detail.
The late Mr. Bobert Cole, F.S.A., assembled nearly 200 volumes of MSS. and Original
Letters, including Qtieen CaroUne'e : Her Letters to Lady Anne Hamilton; the draft
of the Queen's Letter to George lY., claiming the right to be crowned with him : the
Narrative of her sojourn on the Continent, from her leaving England to her return as
Qaeen, the whole autograph, continued by Lady Anne Hamilton to the Queen's death
in 1821. Also^ a mass of Letters and Poetry inscribed to the Queen; and many of
the original Addresses presented at Brandenburgh House, with drafts of the replies,
in Dr. Bobert Fellowes's handwriting. Several hundred Letters from ** the Princess
Olive of Cumberland." Nell Choyn : Treasury order for payment of Annuity to Nell ;
her signature E. G. to reodpts ; her power of attorney to Fraser, mgned E. G., and
witnesfied by Thomas Otway, the poet. Nell's apothecary's bill, and many accounts
for aUks and satins, hay and com, ale, spirits, &c., supplied to her. Lewis Paul : his
papers and Cotton-manufacture Patents, granted many years befbre Arkwright's,
proving that Paul was the original inventor of Cotton-spinning Machinery. Begalia
qf Charles II, : Papers relating to those made fbr his coronation. Flora Macdonald :
her only known letter. Nelson : the introduction letter ; the gunner's expense-book
at the battie of St. Vincent, signed by Nelson. The original Jubilee Address of the
Koyal Academy to G^eorge TIL, mgnied by all the Members. Also, Letters, &c of
James Watt and John Bennie, James Barry, &c. This collection has been dispersed
by auction.*
BoTAiriOAL SooiBTT, 20, Bedford-street» Covent Garden, has an extensive hcrba-
rinniy open to members and other botanists, to facilitate the exchange of British and
foreign gpeameos in forming herbaria.
Bbooxxs'b MxrSBTTM, Blenheim-street» in the rear of 18, Great Marlborough-street
(fabeoqnentiy Colbum, the publisher's), was a fine anatomical collection of more than
6000 preparations, models, and casts, made by Joshua Brookes, F.B.S., during thirty
• Among the Dealers in Antographs is Waller, Fleet«treet.
692 CURIOSITIES OF LONDON.
yean. The greater part was sold in 1828. Brookes was for more than forty jean
a distinguished teacher of anatomy, and had 7000 pupils ; yet he died in comparative
poverty, and in despondency at the dispernon of his Museum.
Bullock's Musxxnc. {See Eotptiait Hall, p. 320.)
CiTiL Enoivbbbs, Institution of (the), 25, Great George-street, Westminster,
formerly possessed a Museum of models and specimens, which, on the extensiofn of the
library and theatre^ were distributed among other scientific societies. At the
annual Conversazione of the President of the Institution is assembled a large collection
of working models of new machinery, works of art, and specimens of manufactare.
In the theatre are portraits of Thomas Telford, and of succeeding Presidents of the
Institution. {See Libbabiss, p. 517.)
The Inttitation of (Svil Engineers flret met at the mii^t Sead Tavern^ Pooltrr, Jan. 2, 1818 ; and
was incorporated 1828. Telford beoaeathed to the Society a large portion of hia library, pvofeaKioaal
papers, and drawings ; and a consiaerable sum of money, the interest to be expended in annoal p>^
miams. Mr. Charles l£anby, F.B.8., Hon. Secretary.
College of Physicians' (Rotal) Museum, Pall Mall East, contains the Tcry
curious preparations which Harvey either made at Fbdua, or procured from that cele-
brated school of medicine. They consist of nx tables or boards, upon which are
spread the different nerves and blood-vessels, carefully dissected out of the body : in
one of them are the semilunar valves of the aorta, which, placed at the origin of the
arteries, must, together with the valves of the veins, have furnished Harvey with the
most conclusive arguments in support of his novel doctrines of the Circulation of the
Blood. Of the Lectures which he read to the College in 1616, the original MSS. are
preserved in the British Museum. The above preparations were presented to the
College, in 1823, by the late Earl of Winchilsea, the direct descendant of Lord
Chancellor Nottingham, who married Harvey's niece, and posessed his property.
Here also is Dr. Matthew Baillie's entire collectbn of anatomical preparations* mostly
put up by his own hands, and from which his great work on anatomy is illustrated.
Like Harvey, Baillie gave this collection in his lifetime (1819). The preparations were
restored in 1851, by Mr. G. E. Blenkins, whom the College presented with a silver ink-
stand and a purse of fifty guineas. Here also is a gold-headed cane, which had been
sucoesuvely carried by Drs. Badcliffe, Mead, Askew, Pitcaim, and Baillie, whose ams
are engraved on the head : presented by Mrs. Baillie. Among the MSS. is Butiorum
aliquot SeUqtUtB, Baldwin Harvey's account of his contemporaries, and the amount of
their fees ; and in the library are Harvey's MS. notes and critidsms upon Aristophanes.
Admission by a Physician's order.
College oe Suboeons' (Royal) Museum, Lincoln's Inn Fields, was oommenoed
with the collection of John Hunt^, of specimens in natural histozy, comparative
anatomy, physiology, and pathology, purchased by the Corporation of Surgeons, and
first opened in 1813 ; greatly enlarged in 1836, and again in 1853. The total nnmber
of specimens is 23,000, of which 10,000 belonged to Hunter's original Museum, the
remainder having nnce been added. There are elaborate catalogues of the whole : ar-
ranged in " the Physiological Department, or Normal Structures ;" and " the Patho-
logical Department, or Abnormid Structures." Besides the anatomical preparations
are the following Cwrioeitiee : fossil shell of a gigantic extinct armadillo ; fosal skele-
ton of the mylodon, a large extinct sloth from Buenos Ayres ; skeleton of a liippo-
potamus; bones of the pelvis, tful, and left hind-leg of the mighty megatherium;
skeleton (8 ft. high) of Charles O'Brien, the Irish giant, who died in 1783, aged
twenty -two ; skeleton (20 in. high) of Caroline Crachami, the SiciUan dwarf, who died
in 1824, aged ten years ; plaster casts of hand of Patridc Cotter, another Irish giant,
8 ft. 7 in. high ; and hand of M. Louis, a French giant, 7 ft. 4 in. high ; glove of
O'Brien; plaster casts of bones of the extinct bird, the dinomit giganieme of New
Zealand, which must have stood 10 ft. high ; skeleton of the gigantic extinct deer, ex-
humed from beneath a peat-bog near Limerick (span of antlers, 8 ft.; length of antler,
7 ft. 3 in. ; height of skuU, 7 ft. 6 in.) ; g^reat penguin from the southernmost point
touched by Sir James Boss; skeleton of the giraffe; skeleton of the Indian elephant
MUSEUMS. 593
Chunee, purchased for 900 guineas, in 1810, to appear in processions on Covent Garden
^ Theatre stage, and subsequently sold to Mr. Cross at Exeter Change, where it was
shot in 1826, daring an annual paroxysm, aggravated by inflammation of one of the
tusks, but not killed until it had received more than 100 bullets (see Hone's Every'
day Book, vol. i.) : the skeleton was sold for 100 gpiineas : the head is 13 ft. from the
ground ; the bones weighed 876 lbs., the skin 17 cwt. Plaster cast of a young
negro, and a bust of John Hunter, by Flaxman ; skeleton of a man who died from
water on the brain, skull 48 in. in circumference ; skulls of a doable-headed child,
bom in Bengal, who lived to be four years old, when it was killed by the bite of a
cobra di capello : the skulls are united by their crowns, the upper head being in-
verted ; it had four eyes, which moved in different directions at the same time, and
the superior eyelids never thoroughly closed, even when the child was asleep. Skeleton,
whose joints are anchylosed, or rendered immovable, by unnatural splints of bone
growing out in all directions. ** The shaft case:" the chest of a man impaled by the
shaft of a chaise, the first tug-hook also penetrating the chest, and wounding the left
lung ; the patient recovered, and survived the ii^ury eleven years : the preparation of
the chest is side by side with the shaft. Iron pivot of a try-sail, which, in the London
Docks, Feb. 26, 1831, was driven through the body of John Taylor, a seaman, and
passed obliquely through the heart and left lung, pinning him to the deck ; the try-
sail mast 39 ft. long, and 600 lbs. weight : Taylor was carried to the London Hospital,
where he recovered in five months, so as to walk from the hospital to the College and
back again, and he ultimately returned to his duties as a seaman. Wax cast of the
baud uniting the bodies of the Siamese twins. Among the mumndes is the first wife
of the noted Martin van Butchell; and a female who died of consumption in 1776, the
vessels and viscera injected with camphor and turpentine. Also a sitting mummy,
supposed of a Peruvian nobleman, who immolated himself with his wife and child
some centuries ago. Since 1835, Professor Owen, F.B.S., has been Conservator of
the Museum, and the catalogues have been prepared by him. Here are :
Twelve wax models of the anatomy of the Cramp-fish (Toi^Mdo ffoImmtO^preeented by Profeisor Owen.
Fossil Bones of the Dlnoinis, or extinct gigantic wingless Bird of New Zealand (tibiaS feet in length).
Coloured casts of the Eggs of the gigantic extinct Bird of Madagascar {EpjfwmU), supposed the
original Boe of Arabian romance. Oile egg contains the matter of 12 ostrich-^gs, 140 hen's-eggi» and
10,000 humming-bbrd's eggs.
Skeleton of the Skulls of the great Chlmpansee (TroglcdgUi fforiUa). This animal is upwards of
6 feet high, of prodigious muscular strength, and much dreaded by the K^roes of the West coast of
TropicalAflrica.
A series of prepared S>culls of different daises of Animals, illustrative of Professor Owen's " Arche-
type of the Vertebrate Skeleton."
Skeleton of male Boschman (diminutive Hottentot); and plaster casts of the male and female,
from life.
Here, too, are some preparations similar to those of Harvey in the College of
Physicians ; they originally belonged to the Museum of the "RojbI Society, kept at
Oresham College, and were the gift of John Evelyn, who bought them at Padua,
where he saw them taken out of the body of a man, and very curiously spread
upon four large tables : they were the work of Pabritius Bartoletus, then Veslln-
gius's assistant. The Council of the College of Surgeons has presented to all the
recognised provindal hospitals possessing libraries sets of the valuable illustrated
catalogues of the Museum, of the collective value of 690Z. The metropolitan Hospitals,
and many learned and scientific sodeties both at home and abroad, had previously
experienced a similar act of collegiate liberality.
The Knaenm is open to Fellows and Members of the College, and to visitors introduced by them.
■cieDtlfle bodies, are liberal and Judicious.
CouFOBATiON MusEUM, Quildhall, contains the relics of Roman London discovered
in excavating for the foundation of the Royal Exchange, arranged by Mr. lite^
F.R.S. : 1. Pottery and glass: moulded articles, bricks and tiles; jars, urns, vasee^
amphons; terra-cotta lamps; Samian ware; potters' marks; glass. 2. Writing
materials: tablets, and styles in iron, brass, bone^ and wood. 8. Miscellaneous : do-
mestic articles ; artificers' tools ; leather manufiictures. 4. Cdns, of copper, yellow
brass, silver, and silver-plated brass, of Augustus, Tiberius, Claudius, Nero, Vespasian,
Q Q
594 OUmOSITJOSS OF LONDON.
Domitian, Ac. j Henry IV. of England, EUzabeth, &c, ; foreign, FtemiBb, German,
Flnusian, Danish, Dutcb. 5. Horns, shells, hones, and Tegetahle remains. 6. An-
tiqnities and articles of later date. The Catalogue, printed for the Gorporation in
1846, is scarce. Here, also, is the City charter (William I.) : the Shakapeare deed of
sale,* &c. (See LiBitABUB, pp. 518, 519.)
Here is a Cahinet of the London Tradert^, Taoem, and Coffeekouae Tokent carrent
in the 17th centory, presented to the Corporation Library by Henry Beigamia
Htnbnry Beanfoy, dUzen and distiller. They consist of Tokens of iron, lead, tin, brasi^
copper, and leather, and 9 Royal (Copper) Farthing Tokens ; in all 1174^ The Leaden
Tokens were issued anterior to 1649, and the others from 1649 till 1672, by traders of
the City, as small change and advertisement ; each Token generally bearing the name^
residence, and ngn of the hoose; the index of them being a record of the olden topo-
graphy and history of London, and a Key to streets and localities long lost. Here is
the Token struck by Farr, of the Mainhom Coffee^houee, Fleet-street^ which escaped the
Great Fire of 1666; and the Tokens of the l^trk'e Read, in Change-alley; and the
Soar's Head T^avem, Eastcheap. A Descriptive Catalogue of these Tokens^ with
historical notes, ably edited by Jacob Henry Bum, was printed for the CoiporatlaD
in 1858 ; and enlarged and reprinted in 1855.
CoTTiKOBLisc MuBETic, 43, Waterloo-road, Lambeth* collected by the late S. N*.
Cottingham, F.S.A., architect, contained about 31,000 spedmeos of Domestic and
Ecclesiastical Architecture, Sculpture, and Furniture ; a complete series of studies
from the Norman period to the close of the reign of Elizabeth. Here was an Eliza-
bethan ante-room and parlour, with a pair of enamelled fire-dogs, once Sir lliomaa
More's ; a ceiling from Bishop Bonner's Palace, Lambeth ; busts of Elizabeth, Mary
Queen of Scots, Baleigh, and Burghley ; ebony table from Norwich ; Queen Anne
Boleyn's sofa, from the Tower ; a gtJleiy and a ceiling from the council-chamber of
Crosby Place, temp, Richard II. (see p. 298); perforated Spanish brass lantern-
chandelier, temp. Henry YII. ; Spanish pattern lantern, date 1600 ; fireplace from the
Star-chamber, Westminster ; figures of saints and bishops^ and busts of English
monarchs ; Flemish oak screen (1490), carved with the history of our Lord, and
figures in niches, richly painted and gilt ; a reliquary, aizteenth century, painted and
carved; cabinet with ceiling (Henry VIL), and Decorated window painted with
Henry VII. and his qneen ; models and casts of tombs of the children of Edward III.,
William of Windsor, and Blanche de la Tour ; a gallery with ceiling, Henry YI. ; oak
panelling from the palace of Layer Mamey, Essex ; iac-nmile of doorway, Boeheater
Cathedral ; altar and altar-piece, with canopied figures ; ancient stall-seats (thirteenth
century) ; throne, and fig^es ; grand figures of the Virgin, Mary Magdalen, &c. ;
splendid fac-similes of lofty tombs, with recumbent effigies ; seven rooms filled with
models and casts; branches, with prickets for candles* temp, Henry V.; supposed
canopy of Chaucer's tomb ; marble keystone mask from Pompeii ; cast from the Strat-
ford bust of Shakspeare; firagments from Hever castle, St. Eatherine's-at-the-Tower,
the palace and abbey at Westminster, &c ; processional cross firom Glastonbury Abbey,
Ac. The collection, sold by auction in 2206 lots, Nov. 1851, produced but 20092. 18#. Sd^
being depreciated at least fifty per cent, by this dispersion. OThe collectaon is well
described in an illustrated Catalogpie^ by Heniy Shaw, F.S.Ai
Cox's MvsBUX, Spring Gardens, formed by James Cox, jeweller, conftsted
of several magnificent pieces of mechanism and jewelled omamenta : the tickets were
a quarter-guinea each : the collection was di^osed of by lottery, by Act of Parli*>
* The most important ftiet of the town proyertj of Shakspeare is that flnt pointed out by ]fn
HalUwell in his 8to Lift of the Poet— vis. that the house purohaeed bj him of Henry Walker, in Mansk
1612-18, and the coonterpart of the convayance of which is preeenred in the Guildhall Library, witti
Shakspeare's Blgnatnre attached, and which is described there as "abutting upon a streete IJeading
donne to Padlo wharfe (Blackfirien) fai the east part right aninst the Kinges M^esties Wardrob^
is still identified, or rather sheltered, in the chnrohTara of St. Andrew's there, ^m vtn Aohm wbl
most probably, destroyed in the Great Fire of 1606 j ont the house stands on its proper spot ; and ontil
within Uiese few years, it had been tenanted by the Robinson ikmily, to whom Shakspeare leased IL
doee behind this house, in Great Carter-lane, stood the Old BM Imu mentioned in a letter addrcosed
to Shakspeare («m p. 462) ; and the poet was probably often in this house, the site of which was
noted, after the destruction of the original building, by a richly-sculptured heU^ dated 1087, and sob-
sequently affixed to the flront of a house in Great Caner>laiis^ on the north side.
MUSEUMS. 59&
mentyin 1774; the scliediile oontaint a dewaiptiTe inTentory. Walpole meiitioii»
M the immoTtal lines on Cox's Matemn ;" and Sheridan, in the JSivals, ** the hull in
Cox's Mnseom." At its dispersioD» aome articles were added to Weeks's Museum
{See p. 606.)
CwxsQUX HirssiTK, 80, Gower-stree^ Bedfivd-sqnare^ ooHeeted by Mr. Hngh
Cnming, contains npwards of 124^000 qiedes tnd Tarieties, indnding 68,000 qpedmena
of Shells; besides Oenera in spirits, with the snimaUi care^Uy preserred ; from Pata^
gonia. Chili, Pern, Columlua, Central America, the Qallapagoe Islands, Sumatra, the
Malayan Peninsnla, Java, the Philippines, and the Sooth Pacific Idanda.
In the lnxoriaat forests, on the arid plains, the moontdn^idee, the eheltered bm and rocky eYiores
of these eoontrieif and by exploring the floor of the ooeaa» speeles of MoUneea, hitherto imperfeetly
known, were foond fai abundanoe, andnnmerooi forme were dleeovered entirely new to icience : eutitllng-
Mr. Coming to rank with Bloane, Hmter, and Montague. The oollection baa been sold to the Britian
Mnaeom.
Dancbiv Giosos, Mvbevh ass Libkast ov, Canonliaay-sqoare, dispened h^
auction in July, 1864^ the sale occupying ten days.
Among the gems was a oollection of 70 blaeli-letter baflads, 15C9-1097, wMeh bieaght 7S0I. Va»
da/B BamjuHSriMiUit OcmenU, 1688, the onlj known eopj, VQl. Joe MiUer'e Jests, lit edition, ex-
tremelj rare. On the Shakipeare dar, a copy of Shakspewre'e Sonneti, one of onlj two perfisct oc^rtea
known with the same imprint, which cost Nandssus Lnttrell one ihilUng, was knocked down for
216 fftdneas I Separate plays of Shakepeare, original edittons, prodoced more than WO gnlneas eachx
the "first foUOf^Doiu^t for Miss Bnrdett Ooatts at 688 guineas. Among the Tokens wee that of the
Sooi'iSMd, Biiid to be unique ; and the Mermaid Ttnern, rare. There were manr original drawfaigsy
ensrared porttdltM, and curious examplee of art sod vlrtJL Amoag the portnuts were Mtertos,
BoUo<^ and Bsrton Booth { the Tery rare meisottnt of Georse Harris as Cawinal Wolssy ; MissNorsl^
painted and aigraved by Bernard Lens, exceedingly rare : and Shater, as he spoke Joe Hayaes's epUogusu
mounted on an ass. Amonff the oil*psintings were sn old portrait of Shskspesre^ boognt at the sa^ of
Mr. Symes's eflbcts, at old Canonbnry Tower, and a whole length of Napoleon L, taken from life 1^
'Offlow while on board the BtUeropkom. Among the memorials was sn octagonal casket, with conlcu
lid, surmounted ty the bust of Bhaupeare, carved bt Sharp from the Ihmed mulberrr-tree, with Tine-
leaves and grapM within ornamented srohes, formerly in me possession of Qsrzkk. with this reliowBs
allotted Qanick's eaae^ malaeca, gold^mounted, presented by Garrick to King the actor, and which he
used as a atege dress cane in Lord Ogleby. Ac iQng gave tois cane to John Bannister, who gave it to
JohnFrittHarle7.atthessleofwhoaeeifoetB,inl86ia, it wss porehased by Mr. DanieL ▲crudfizin
hard wood, exquisitely carved, it waa aaid, by CelUni, and the plinth by Gibbons, brought thirty guineas ;
and the double cap. In silver, from the Strswbeny Hill Collection, wss sold for 001.
Einx>icoLOOXOAii Sooibtt's Musbux, 12, Bedford-row, Hoibom: a collection of
insects, coDunenced with Mr. Eirby'e specimens^ from wUbh the first of monographa
ever pohliahed waa fbrmed. (Kirby and Spenoe's Inirodiuiio»») Here ia also a Uhnuy
of refiarence on Entomology.
Geology, Fbacticax^ MtxaBtTH ov, Nos. 28 to 82^ Jermyn-itreet^ originated in tt
BQggestion by Sir H. De la Bech^ C.B., in 1885, for the collection of geological and
mloeralogical spedmena daring the progress of the Qeological Surrey of the United
Kingdom. The coOectiona were first exhibited in a boose in Craig's-coart, Charing
Cross; bat becoming too extensive fbr this accommodation, the present handsome
edifice was erected, with entrance in Jermyn-street, and frontage in Piccadilly : Penne-
thome^ architect ; styles Italian palaaso.
In the lower hall is a ooUectdon of British boilding and ornamental atonee— sand-
stones, oolites, limestonea, granitei^ and porphyries, in Dx-inch cabes. The entrance ifr
lined with Derbyshire alabaster ; and the hall has pilasters of granite from Scotland,,
serpentine from Ireland, and limestones firom DevonsUre, Derbyshire^, &c On one side is
an elaborate screen, with Cornish serpentine pilasters and cornice; and Irish aerpentine-
panels, framed with Derbyshire productions. Here is a large copy of an Etruscan
vase cot in Aberdeen granite ; and on the floors are a very fine tesseUated pavement of'
Cornish day, and examples of encaustic tiles; pedestals Of British marbles support
Tases and statuettes of artifidal atone, cement, &c.
The principal floor has an apartment 96 fleet by 66 feet, with an iron roof, glazed
with Toogh pUte-glaas. Around run two light gaUeries. Here are spedmens of iron*
copper, tin, lead, manganese, antimony, cobalt, &c, of the United Kingdom and the
oolonies; slso a good collection of similar ores from the most important metalliieroaa
countries of the world. The processes of raising these from the mines are illustrated
by an extensive series of models, with the modes of dresung the ores for the market, and
the final production of the metal ; mining tools, aafrty*lamps, &c. ; incloding models
of Taylor's Goraiih pomping-engine^ the water-preinire engine^ the tnrbute uid other-
QQ2
696 CURIOSITIES OF LONDON.
wheelfl, and a beautifnl aet of valvw. The models of mines can be dissected, and the
mode of working shown ; with the machines fbr lowering and raising the minen,
models of stamping and crushing engines, and iron-smelting by the hot and cold UasL
Here, also, are tools of the Cornish, German* Bossian, and Mexican miners.
The history of the metals may also be read in a collection of bronzes and brasses, and
gold and rilver ornaments ; examples of metal casting and steel manufacture are shown ;
as are also metal statuettes, electrotype deposits, and illustrations of electro-plating and
lading, and photographic processes. Here is also a large and valuable collection of
ancient glass, in brads^ bottles, jugs, Ac, historically arranged : the old Venetian glass
is exceedingly curious. The processes of enamelling are illustrated; and here are
specimens of fine Limoges, modem worker and Chinese enamels. Next is a collection
cf Roman pottery. The China days, China stone^ and other raw materials of earthen-
ware and porcelain, are shown ; and here is a complete series of the wares of the
Staffordshire potteries ; also, specimens of those of Detbj, Worcester, Swansea, Chelsea,
Bow, and other districts, in comparison with the earthenware of the andents^ the
ceramic manu£akctures of Italy, Germany, France, and the Orientals.
In the galleries round the large room is a very complete collection of British fisssils,
arranged in the order of their occurrence and labelled, so that a collector may compaze
and identify any specimen he may find.
Attached to the Museum is the Mining Becords Office, in which are collected plans
and sections of existing and abandoned mines. Here also are a Library, and a Lecture-
theatre with 580 sittings. Lastly are well-fitted Laboratories communicating by a
hydraulic lift with a fire-proof room in the basement-story, containing an assay-fomace.
The collections are open to the public gratuitously on the first three days of the week ;
and on the other three days to the students of the Boyal School of Mines, Ac.
Geological Socibtt's Mttbxuk, Somerset House, is rich in the original types of
fossils described in the Oeological TrantiicHons. The collection contains a series of
British fossils and rocks, arranged stratigraphically ; likewise, an assemblage of selected
minerals, and a foreign collection geographically arranged. The Society posseases abo
a fine library of works upon geological science.
Geological : Mb. J. S. Bowbbbakk's Collection, 8, Highbuiy-grove* Talingtoiij
conasting more especially of British fosnls stratigraphically arranged; and partaoUarly
rich in the crag, London day, and chalk formations ; the whole occupying 400 drawers.
Also the most extensive collection of British and foreign Sponges in Europe, consisting
of many hundred spedes from Anslaralia, Africa, the West Indies, Ac.
GiTiAirA Exhibition, 209, Begent-street (Cosmorama), was a Museum of objects
illustrative of the ethnography and natural history of British Guiana, collected by Mr.
(afterwards Sir) H. Bob^ Schomburgk, and exhibited in 1840. The saloon was fitted
op as a Guianeae hut; and here were three living natives, part of Schomborgk'a boat's
crew, in their picturesque costumes. Besides collections of mammalia, bixds, reptiles,
fishes, mollusca, and insects, specimens in osteology, geology, Ac, here was a painting
of the Victoria Begia lily ; Guianese furniture, clothing, and other manufactures ;
poisoned arrows and blowpipe; a native hammock and bark shirt; the boa, pmna, and
ant-eater ; splendid rock manakins and humming-birds, &c The three natives, wearing
only waistdoths, and jaguar-skin doaks, and teeth neddaces, and fiBather-caps, and
their skins painted and tattooed, exhibited thdr blowpipe shooting and dances, whidi
were very attractive.
▲t the Coimorams was rerivod, in 1839. the "Invisible Girl** of some thirty Tsanprtfrloasly, the
faivention of M. Charles, and detailed by Sir DsTid Brewster in his Ifahural itagie. The poet Moore
and answered through the tnbe accordingly; the soond losing so mooh of ib fbroe in Us psaaage, as to
appear like the voioe of a girl."
Hospitals, the prindpal, possess Anatomical Museums.
• Hudson's Bay CoifPAirT's Hoirss, Fenchurch-street, possessed many years aonce a
Museum of stuffed Birds, and other objects of natural history from Buperf s Land ; the
MU8EUM8. 597
greater portioD of which has heen presented to the Britbh Museum and the Zoological
Society.
HnirrEB's (Williah) Musbuh was collected at his large house on the east side of
€h*eat Windmill-street, Haymarket. Hunter employed many years in the anatomical
preparations and in the dissections; besides making additions by purchase from the
museums of Sandys, Falconer, Blackall, and others. Here was a sumptuous library
of Greek and Latin classics ; and a very rare cabinet of ancient medals, besides coins,
purchased at 20,000^. expense. Minends, shells^ and other specimens of natural history
were gradually added to this Museum, which hence became one of the Curiosities of
Europe. The cost of the whole exceeded 70,0002. ; it was bequeathed by Hunter to
the Univernty of Glasgow, with 80002. to support and augment the whole.
IiTDiA MxrSBTTM, Fife House, Whitehall-yard, formerly the residence of the Earl
of Liverpool. This collection was re-arranged in 1858> and has been removed firom
the East India House» as above. In the old Museum, so long one of the sights of
London, trophies of war were the most conspicuous olgects, and the specimens of
natural history and rare literary treasures were secondary attractions compared with
the silver elephant-howdah and the tiger-organ of Tippoo Sahib. The new collection
contains some monumental and artistic records of the progress of British empire in the
East, but its principal object is to illustrate the productive resources of India, and to
give information about the life and manners, the arts and industry, of its inhabitants.
Hers ars models and sroaps of figares representing the varieties of race, caste, drees, oceopatiaii,
wonhlp, and eTerything oelonging to the public or the domestic life of the people of India: specimens
of their agrlcttltnral Implements, manafiiotoring tools, and rude machinery; oftheir conveTanoesby
land and water, of theur household ftimltare and their mosical instnunents. There is a model of a
Sepoy encampinent, the huts with their bamboo firameworic supporting the wiUls of Dormah matting,
topped by a heavy roof of straw thatch ; a model, also, of a kutcnerrie, or law-court. In the industrial
Krtion are shown Calcutta and Madras leather ; specimens of paper made fW>m Jute fibre and plantain
kf; matwork: metalwoi^ ae— bangles, rings, bracelets, brooches, tassel knots for dresses, hookah
monthpieoesj Trichinopoly filigree work; firom the Bengal presidency a superb necklace of gold set
with pearls and emeralds ; a gold bracelet thickly set with pearls and diamonds ; a necklace of emeraldsi
pearls, and rubies; a bracelet of three rows of large diamonds, about 90 in number; and a number of
cnrioiuly ibrmed gold and sQver s]^ boxes. Portrait of Bux^eet Singh, sitting at his Durbar ; round
bla neck is a string of 280 pearls, said to be the largest and most vahuble in the world ; (now in the
yoiscssion of her Mfyesty). His head-dress is a perfiect mass of rubies and emeralds, while on his arms
Is a duster of armlets of jewels, one a noble emerald. Here are enormous sUtct chains of great weight
and such strength as to carrv tne heavy arms and accoutrements of the hill tribes of Thibet, with naara
chann rings and rough-lookmg bracelets. Also, turquoises of the largest size and purest water, uncut
and unpolished, found amid the mountains of Thibet. Specimens of carved woodwork, the inlaid vrork
of wood, metal, and ivory, and the lackered work of Lahore, Bareilly, and Soinde; metal works and
brass wares firom Madras, Travancore, Daijheeling, Delhi, and Benares. The formidable knives of
the Ghoorkas, the long matchlocks of the men of Oude, the shields and spears of the Santals, the keen-
edged swords of the B^jpoots, and the camel guns of the dd Mahrattas. Here, too, is actually a r^
volver musket at least 00 years old, which at once disposes of the claims of both Colt and Adams to
originality even of construction. This revolver, ire believe, was taken by Sir David Baird at the storm-
ing of Seringapatam. Among the costumes are dresses embroidered with beettes, Ac Here are marble
statues of Wellington, Clive, and Hastings ; pictures; models of Indian craft; antelopes, staga, leopards,
and other large stnlibd animals. A fine collection of the Elliot marbles, firom the ruins of AmrawottL
The Museum is open Monday, Wedneeday, and Friday, 10 to ^ free.
Kikg'b Collsos Museum, Strand, consists of the collection formed at the Kew
Observatory by King George III., and of a cabinet of natural history specimens from
Kew Pftlace; presented to the College in 1S43, and known as *' George the Third's
Hnseum." Here are the celebrated *' Boyle models," and " forty-one brass phites^
engraved with astronomical, astrological, and mathematical delineations;" a large
orrery, date 1733 ; an armillary sphere, 1731 ; apparatus made for Desaguliers* lectures ;
a rude model of Watfs steam-engine; Attwood's large arch of polished brass voussoirs^
Ac There have been added Wheatetone's speaking-machine ; a model, fifteen ftet
long, of the celebrated Schafiliausen timber bridge ; a bust of Queen Victoria, by
Weekes; and a statuette of George III., by Tumerelli. The collection also includea
small philosophical apparatus, entomdogical specimens, fossils, minerals, &c Here
also is a portion of Mr. Babbage's Calculating Machine, which has succeeded in printing
mathematical and astronomical tables. At the CoUege is Hkewise an Anatomicid
Museum, a Cabinet of Natural History ; and a Chemical Theatre, with a Daniell constant
battery of great power.
The College poeseaaes a beaQtifolly-illuminated M8. containing the Btatuies of the Order of the
Qattsr } a drawing of the House of Lords, Untp. Edward Lx and tiie Statutes in more elegant Lslli^
S98 CUBI08ITIEB OF LONDON.
OBtwctodlathihidwiHlagof K^Mwigd'VI, wip«>|y wnbliOTwd wtth«ni>Ae. ThaMi
«an be Men by the Cantor's order.
Leybsuit Mvbsux : {860 LnoisziE-BavAXi; p. 512.)
Lmnuir SooufT, 82, flolio-aqaare (tlM home of Sir Joaepli BaBki» and beqnttthed
hj him to the Sodoty), fiKmotly contained in ita HnaeQin the herbarium of T^innffin1^
pnrehaied, with the library, by Sir J. S. Smith, ibr 10002. The herbariton waa kept in
three snail oaaeai and waa a onriow botanioal antiqQtty, of great value in aaoertaining
wUh oertidnfy the aynonymi of the writanga of LinnsQa. The mnaenm is verj ridi
in the botanioal department^ containing tiie herbaria of LuonsBoa, Smith, Palteney,
Woodward, Winch, Ac; beiidea a vidnable barbarinm preaented by the Eaat.
India Company in 1888. The entomological collecttoni an eztcnaiTe; the loology ia
rich in Anotralian maxanpiali^ birdi, and reptilea ; and the iheUa are fine. Here also
wu a collection of paintingi, induding a portrait of Limuraa^ from the original by
Boilin at Stockholm, described as the most striking likeness ever execnted. T^ copy
was painted for Arehlnshop Von Troil, by whom it was presented to Sir Joseph Banks,
In this house Sir Joseph Banks gave pablic break&sts on Thursdays^ and oonccr-
satiatU <m Sunday evenings to the Fellows of the Bpyal Sodety, during his long pre-
ndeaej. He left an annuity of 200/., his library, and botanical ooUectiona, for life, to
his librarian, Mr. Bobert Brown, F.B.S., afterwards to come to the British Museum ; bat
by arrangement the libraiy and collections were at once tranaferred to the Museom.
MjkXVJAoruJLEM AJn> Obvaxshtal Abt MuBSVic, Marlbofoogh House, P^U Mall
waa opened temporarily in 1858» with pordiaaes from the Great Exhibition, with
WM. voted by Parlilunent; induding gorgeoos scarft and shawls fifom CSuihmere and
I^ihore ; the Frendi shawl of Duch^ ain^ et O*, the most perfect specimen of shawl«
weaving ever produced ; glittering swords^ yataghans, and pistols from Tunis and Gon-
atantinople; the fkmoos "Ia Oknre" vase from the Sevres manulkctnre; Marcel
Fr^res* hunting^knifo of St. Hubert; Changamiei^B sword, from the workshop ot
Froment Meurioe; Yecte's splendid shield; a facsimile of the celebrated Cellini cap;
and other art*illusfcrataons of the highest order. To these were added purchases; and
the artides were grouped Into six daases: woven fiibrici^ metal worka^ pottery*
ibmitore^ and misceUanies. The metal-work d^«rtment conflisted also of the rich and
aplendid manuihoture of the East» with a few rude spedmens illustrative of the innate
teste of their workmen ; the diver and bronze materials of Francei, cups of English
and brooches of Iridi mann&cture^ and EUungton's dectro^pes. The dividcm of
pottery was enriched' by the Queen's Sevres cdlection, and by valuable works fitnn
Baling, Minton, Copdand, Webb, and Farrar : the royal collection, though of forty,
two pieces only, bdng worth 12,0002. The casta of ornamental ut were re-
moved here from Somerset House; and the collection induded ancient Greek and
Boman, medissval or Bomaneaque, Haraoenio or Gothic^ BenaisBanoe^ figures, bnats^
masks, animals, Ac. ; the Benaissance (aj>. 1400 to 1000) arranged duondogically.
There wae a coUectioii of 8489 ipedmenB of eDiiehment, British end foreign esimplee, for the
giddenoe as to etyle of the eerrere emploTed m the New Houses of Fwliament ; end enother eoDectian
«f 8283 ceste, from modele prepered for sume and wood earrings, deposited in theOoTeeBment Works at
Thamee Bank, and at the New Houses of ParUament. Theee eTsmplee ooet TQOOiL, and are intended to
lorm part of a NetJonal Mosenm of Medlvral ArL—Itnt Stport Jjtp. Fraetieal JH, 1869.
The Car for the Funeral of the Duke of Wdlington, in 1852, meddled by
Pupils of the Department^ was subsequently exhibited here. The ooUecUon was re-
moved to South Kensingfton, upon Marlborough House being prepared for the recep-
tion of the Prince and Princess of Wales; the Car being removed to St. Pkiul's CathedraL
MsAD'a (Db.) MrsBUX was in the garden of No. 49, Great Ormond-street, where
was also a Vbrary of 10,000 volumes. The cdlection induded prints and drawings,
coins and medals; marble statuea of Greek philosophers and Boman emperors ; bronze^
gems, intaglios, Etruscan vases^ &c. ; marble busts of Shakspeare^ Hilton^ and Popei,
by Scheemakers ; statues of Uygeia and Antinous; a cdebrated bronae head of
Homer; and an iron cabinet (onoe Queen Elizabeth's) full of coins, among whidi was a
medal with Oliver Cromwell's head in profile, legend, " the Lord of Hosts» the word at
Dunbar, Sept 1660;" on the reverse, the parliament sitting. After Dr. Mead's death,
in 1754» the sale of his library, pictures, statues, &c. realized between l5^00O{.andl^OOO2L
MU8EUM8. 599
Head, when not engaged at home, generally spent his evenings at Batson's ooffee-
boiii8e» ComhiU ; and in the forenoons, apothecaries came to him at Tom's, Covent
Garden, with written or verbal reports of cases^ for which he prescribed without seeing
the patient, and took half-gninea fees. Dr. Mead's gay oowoersasiom, in Ormond-
street, were the first meetings of the kind.
MissiOKABY MvssiTH, The, 8» Bloomfield-street, Finsbary, contributed chiefly by
the misaonaries of the Loudon Missionary Society, and travellers generally, is remark-
able for its great number of idols and objects of superstitious regard, costumes, do-
mestic uteniils, implements of war, music, Ac from islands in the Pacific Ocean, China,
smd ultra-Qanges; India, includuig the three Presidendes; Africa and Madagascar;
If orth and South America ; " especially the idols given up by their former worsMppen^
inm a liill conviction of the ibUy and sin of idolatry." Here also is an assemblage of
natural history specimens, principally Polynesian : its Tshitian collection rivals Capt.
Cook's, in the British Museum.
Some of the idols lie 12 feet high. Among the rarities we 18 model piotores of Japanese costnmes
obtained at great risk ; and six ooloored etchings hj a Chinese artist, the Progress of the Opium-smoker,
« comitopart to Hogarth's "Bake's Progress." Admission by Director's or oAcer't tickets.
Natiovax Bxpositost, The, was formed in 1828, in the upper gallery of the south-
west side of the Kiog's Mews, Charing Cross ; and 85 adjoining rooms were reserved
for the reception of products from the chief manufacturing towns. Here were alk-
looms to work at certain hours, English Mechlin laoe^ crystallo-ceramic ornamental
glass; models of steam-engines, steam-boat paddles, suspension-bridges, and public
buildings; new kaleidoscopes^ rain-gauges, musical glasses, Indian corn-mills, life-
buoys, Ac. The exhibition proved unattractive^ notwithstanding the King (George lY.)
and his Ministers took much interest in the project. The collection was removed
to a house on the east ride of Leicester-square^ and there merged into the " Museum
of National Manuihcturea and the Meehsnical Arts." It was soon dispersed; but»
doubtless, suggested the Polytechnic Exhibitions at the Adelaide Gallery, and in
Begent-street and elsewhere.
Natal Museum (*' The Model Boom*^, Somerset House. Here were models of the
•cience and trade of ship-building, with sections of interior and exterior construction,
from the Oreat Many and the Sover&iffn qf the Seat to our own time. In the
eentral room was a large model of the Vietoria, 110 guns, laid down in 1889 ; and
above hangs a model of the Vktory, built 1735, and lost in 174A, with an admiral and
its entire crew. Here also were models of the Bueentamrs a Chinese Junk; a Bur-
mese War-boat; the Qiteen, 110 guns; and the A^amemmm steam-screw war«
ship, 91 guns. This oollection was removed to the Naval Court of the South Kensing*
ton Museum, in 1864.
Phabmaosutical Sooixty, THX,17,Bloomsbury-8quare, incorporated 1842, poasenee
the most extensive and complete Museum of the kind in fty'ffteP4y ; comprising rare
apedmens of the ammal, vegetable, and mineral kingdoms ; and substances and pro*
ducts used in Medicine and Pharmacy. Also, groups and series of authenticated
apedmens, valuable for identifying, comparing, and tradng, the origin and natural
history of products. Here is the valuable Museum of the late Dr. Pereira, including
collections of Cinchona barks by eminent foreign naturalists. The collection may be
aeen daily, except Saturdays, by Member's order, or on application to the curator.
Backstbow's Mubbum, at No. 197, was a Fleet-street sight of the last century.
Backstrow was a statuary, and had Sir Isaae Newton's Head for a rign : his museum
consisted of natural and artifldal curiorities and anatomical figures ; and " the circula-
tion of the blood, shown by a red liquor conveyed through glass tubes, made in imita*
tion of the principal vans and arteries of the human body ; the heart and its auricles^
and likewise the lungs, are put in their proper motions." Backstrow died at hts house
in Fleet-street, in 1772; and in seven years after, the collection was dispersed bj
auction. One of the prodigies of the collection was the skeleton of a whale, more than
70 feet long. Donovan, the naturalist, subsequently exhibited here his London Mueenm^
which was soon after dispersed.
eOO 0UBI08ITIE8 OF LONDON.
BoTAL Society's Mubeuk, Barlington Hooae, was oommenoed in 1665, with " the
ooUecting of a repository, the aetting up a chemical lahoratoiy, a mechanical operatory,
an astronomical ohservatory, and an optick chamber :" next year Evelyn presented " the
table of veins, arteries, and nerves, which he had made out of the natural human
bodies, in Italy." Sir R. Moray presented " the stones taken oat of Lord Balcarras's
heart, in a nlver box ;" and " a bottle full of stag's tears." Hooke gave " a petrified
fish, the skin of an antelope which died in St. James's Park, a petrified foetns," and
other rarities. In 1681, when Dr. Grew published his corions catalogue, the Moseam
coctuned several thousand specimens of zoological subjects and foreign curiosities ;
among the eighty-three contributors are Prince Rupert, the Duke of Koriblk, Boyle,
Evelyn, Hooke, Pepys, &c. (Weld's SiMtory of the Royal Society, vol. ii. p. 278.)
Ned Ward (London Spy, part ilL) satirically describes this Museum of Wiseacres' HalU
or Qresham College. The account of its rarities in Hatton's London, 1708, fills 20
pages ; and it is carious to observe how much it must have propagated error. Thns
we find among Dr. Crew's rarities : —
"The QoillB of a Poroaptns^ wbioh, onoertain oecsiUms, thAcraiare oaa shoot st the pozsohig enemy
and erect at plcasare.
'The Flying Squirrel, which, Ibr a good nut-tree^ will pass a river on the barkof a tree, erecting his
; at pic
ne Flylnf
tall for a sail.
'* The L^bone of an Elephant, brought oat of Syria for the thl^h-bone of a giant. In winter, when
It begins to rain, elephants are mad, and ao continue from April to September, cluiined to some tree, and
then become tame again.
** Tortoiaes, when tamed on thdr baoka, will sometimes fetch deep aigha, and shed abandanee of tears.
« A Hamming-bird and Nest, said to weigh bat 12 grains; hla raauera are set in gold, and sell at a
great rate.
" A Bone, aaid to be taken oat of a Mermaid's head.
"The Lareeft Whale, liker an Island than an animaL
"The Whito Shark, which sometimes swallows men whole.
" A Siphalter, said with ita sacker to flisten on a ship, and stop It ander ssiL
" A Stag*beetle, whose horns worn in a ring are gooid against the cramp.
"A Mountain Cabbage : one reported 800 feet high."
Of the Society's pictures there is a good catalogue by Mr. Weld, Asristant Secretary,
who has also, from the Charter-book, collected into a volume fac-similes of 300 of the
Follows (from the period of the institution of the Boyal Sodety to the present time),
an illustrious set of autographs.
Belies of Sir Iscmo Newton, — ^An autograph note firam the Mint Office ; one of the
solar dials made by Newton when a boy ; his richly-chased gold watch, with a medal-
lion of Newton, and inscribed : " Mrs. Catherine Conduitt to Sur Isaac Newton. Jan. 4<»
1708." " The first reflecting telescope, invented by Sir Isaac Newton, and made with
his own hands," 1761 ; the mask of his face, firom the cast taken after death, which
belonged to Boubiliac ; a small lock of Newton's silver-white hair : and three portraits
of him in oil, painted by Jervas, Marchand, and Yanderbank. Here likewise is the
original model of the Safety-lamp, made by Sir Humphry Davy's own hands in 1815.
Sax>tbbo's (Don) Mubbttic was first established at a ooffSee-houae, afterwards the Swan
Totem, in Cheyne-walk, Chelsea, in 1695, by one Salter, a barber, who assembled there
a collection of Curiosities : they remained in the oofibe-room till August, 1799, when
they were dispersed by public auction ; previous to which printed Catalogues were
sold, with the names of the principal benefiictors to the collection. In Dr. FrankUn's
Life we read : " Some g^tlemen from the country went by water to see the Collide,
and Don Saltero's Curiosities," at Chelsea. The collection is also noticed at p. 90.
Saitll's MtrsBTTK, 15, Aldersgate-street, was a private collection, which the proprietor
liberally allowed to be inspected. The Antiquities, principally excavated in the metro-
polis, consisted of early British vases, Roman lamps and urns, amphorse, and dishes, tiles,
bricks, and pavements, and fragments of Samian ware ; also, a few Egyptian antiquities ;
and a cabinet of Greek, Roman, and early British coins. The Oeological Department
contained the collection of the late Mr. Sowerby, with additions by Mr. Saull ; together
exceeding 20,000 specimens, arranged according to the probable order of the earth's
structure. Every article bore a descriptive Jabel ; and the localization of the antiquities^
some of which were dug up almost on the spot, rendered these relics so many medals of
our metropolitan civilization. Mr. Saull, F.Q.S., died in 1855, when the collection waa
distributed to the British Museum and other institutiona.
MU8EUM8. 601
Sloake Mussuh, Thb, collected by Sir Hans Sloane, at Chelsea, consisted of
natural and artificial Curiosities, which cost Sir Hans 50,000^. : after his death in 1763,
they were sold to Parliament for 20,0002., and formed the nudens of the British
Mnsemn. The collection consisted of a library of 50,000 volumes ; MSS. upon natural
liistory, voyages and travels, and the arts, especially medicine; 23,000 medals and
coins ; anatomical preparations ; natural history specimens ; and an herbarium of 336
volumes. The Catalogue of the collection extended to 88 vols, folio, and 8 vols. 4to.
(See Bbitish Museum, p. 574.)
SoASE Museum, The, 18, Lincoln's Inn i^elds (north side), was founded and endowed
by Sir John Soane, the architect, with 80,0002. 8 per cents, and a house in Lincoln's
Inn Fields, to support the Museum. At Soane's death, in 1837, the Trustees appointed
by Parliament took charge of the " Museum, Library, Books, Prints, Manuscripts,
I)rawing8, Maps, Models^ Plans, and Works of Art, and the House and offices/'
providing for the free admismon of amat-eurs and students in painting, sculpture, and
architecture ; and general visitors.
The Hiuemn is open toffeneral vlsiton on any Wednesday, Thursday, or Friday in April, Hay, and
Jnne : and likewise on the Wednesdays in Yebmxrj, March, JuIt, and August.
Admission Is obtained by cards, to be applied for either to a Trustee, by letter to the Curatw, or per-
sonally at the Museum.
Access to the books, drawings, MSS., or permission to copy pictures or other works of art, is granted
on special application to the Trustees or the very obliging Curator, Mr. Joseph Bonomi, who resides at
the Museum.
A general description of the Collection, abridged from that printed by Sir John Soane in 1836, may
be had at the Museum. The larger work (only 160 copies printed) is interspersed with poetical illustra-
tions by Mrs. Hofiand.
The house, built by Mr. Soane in 1792, was in 1812 faced with a stone screen, in which
are introduced Gothic corbels, 12th century ; and terra-cotta canephorse, copied from
the caryatides of the Temple of Pandrosus at Athens. The entrance-hall is decorated
with medallion reliefs after the antique. The dining-room and library ceiling are
painted by U. Howard, ILA. Here are a large collection of drawings of buildings by
Sir John Soane;* plaster models of ancient Greek and Roman edifices, restored; a cork
model of Pompeii ; fictile vases, alabaster urns, and antique bronzes ; windows filled
with old stained glass ; busts of Homer, Shakspeare, Ben Jonson, Camden, and Inigo
Jones ; Greek and Etruscan vases, and Wedgwood's imitations ; Sir Joshua Reynolds'
Snake in the Grass, purchased for 510 guineas by Soane, at the Marchioness of
Thomond's sale ; and a portrait of Soane, almost the last picture painted by Lawrence^
1829. Here also is a walnut-tree and marble table, formerly Sir Robert Walpole's :
on this table is exhibited the celebrated Julio Clovis' MS. The Little Study contidns
marblo fragments of Greek and Roman sculpture, antique bronzes, and some natural
Curiosities. In the Monk's Yard are Gothic fragments of the ancient palace at West-
minstery picturesquely arranged to resemble a ruined cloister. In the Corridor are
casts from Westminster Hall ; and Banks's model of a Sleeping Girl, at Ashbourne ;
also two engravings, the Laughing Audience, and the Chorus, by Hogarth ; and a
drawing by Canaletti. The Monk's Parlour has its walls covered with fragments and
casts of mediseval buildings. The Monument Court contains architectural groups of
various nations. The Hcture-room has moveable planer which serve as double walls,
on each side of which are hung the pictures : here are Hogarth's Rake's Progress,
eight paintings, purchased for 570 guineas; and Hogarth's Election, four paintings, for
1650 guineas ; also, three pictures by Canaletti, one, the Grand Canal of Venice, his
chef-cPtBUvre ; Van Tromp's Barges entering the Texel, by J. M. W. Turner, R. A. ;
the Stndy of a Head, from one of Raphael's Cartoons, — ^a relic saved from the wreck
of the lost Cartoon, which remained in the posaession of the family of the weaver
who originally worked the Cartoons in tapestry ; also copies of two other heads from
the same, by ilazman ; pictures by Watteau, Fuseli, Bird, Westall, Turner, Calloott»
Hilton, iM, The fifteen Indian-ink Drawings of Piestum, by I^ranesi, are very fine.
* Sir John Soane, the son of a Berkshire brioklaver, designed a greater number of poblio edifices
than any contemporary; from the Bank of England in the Citr, to Chelsea Uoipital at the western
extremity; from Walworth in the southern to the Begent's Park in the north-western subarbs. His
last work (1833), the State Paper Office, In St. JamesVi Park, was very unlike any other of his designs.
Ue died at his boose in lilneofn's Inn Fields, Jan. 20, 1837.
«02 0UBI08ITIE8 OF LONDON.
Upon tables are displayed several iUaminated M3S., a MS. Tasso* fhe fint three
editions of Shakspeare, sketch-books of Sir Joshua Reynolds, and other eorioiis works.
In the Catacombs are ancient marble cinerary nms aikl vases. In the Sepulchral Cham-
ber is the Sarcophagns discovered in 1817, by Belaoni, in a royal tomb near Goomon,
Thebes. It was bought by Shr John Soane of Mr. Salt* the traveller, in ia24v for the
aomofZOOO^. When first discovered, this Saroophagns was oonndered by Dr. Young to
be the tomb of Paamnis; and the bderoglyphics in the cartoodie to inoBcate Oaien-
menephtha, the father of Ramos IL ; althongh Sir Gardner Wilkinson coDsiders it was
not that monarch's sarcophagns, hot bis cenotaph. Mr. Bonomi has illostrated to the
Syro-Egyptian Society Belioni's very animated description of this Sarcophagus by a
■action and plan of the catacomb, which is excavsted to a depth of one hnndred yards
into the soUd rock. The sarcophagus is completely covered with hieroglyphics and
659 figures (each 2 inches high), dl of which were originally filled in wiUi a blue
paste. The subjects on both sides are of a religions character, while that on the floor
of the sarcophagus is personaL Two suljects of particular interest are pointed out»
one as representing the ancient Cosmical philosophy, and the other as exhibiting in a
very perfect manner the doctrine of the Metempsychoos. Mr. Bonomi also oonaiders
that the sarcophagus reveals two remarkable features which have not been seen in
any other example : the first in the existence of two holes at each end of the ]id« for
the admisrion of ropes to ensure the gradual adjustment of the cover into its proper
pkuse ; and the next the evidence of a means of preserving the edges of the sarco-
phagus from fracture during the process of lowering, and affording the means of her-
metically closing it. It is formed of a large mass of arragonite, or alabaster : it is
9 feet 4 inches long, and 2 feet 8 inches deep. The seventeen fragments which formed
part of the cover have been put together : and 19 plates of &e whole have been
carefully drawn by Mr. Bonomi, and described by Mr. S. Shazpe.
In the Crypt are several cork models of andent tombs and sepulchral chambers
discovered in Sidly, the walls decorated with painting and sculpture; and in the
centre the remains of the deceased, amidst vases and other funereal accompaniments.
In various apartments are a plaster cast of the ApoUo Belvedere, taken by Lord
Burlington about 1718 ; a marble bust of Sir John Soane^ presented by the sculptor,
Chantrqr ; a richly-mounted pistol, taken by Peter the Great firom the Turldah Bey at
Aiof, 1696^ presented by AlexandJer Emperor of Rosaa to the Emperor Napoleon
at Tilsit in 1807, and given by him to a French officer at St Helena ; also» a portrait
of Napoleon in his 28th year, by a Venetian artist; and a mimature of Napoleon,
painted at Elba, in 1814^ by Isabi^; statuettes of Michael Angelo and Raphael, cast
from the model, by Flaxman, in Mr. Rogers's collection; marble bust of Sir William
Chambers; bust of R. B. Sheridan, by Garrard; carved and gUt ivory table and
chairs, formerly Tippoo Saib's; the watch, measuring-rods, and compasses used by Sir
Christopher Wren; a larg^ collection of ancient gems and intaglios; and a set of the
Napoleon Medals, once the Empress Josephine's. {See Libsasibs, p. 525.)
The 8eulphtr«,MarbU». Cati$, and Mod^h, contain 40 ipeoimeni of Flsmaii, Including a plaster
eartofhie ''Shield of Achlllee;" lOworkiofBuki; andspedmensof MlefaaelAiigelo,Joluid»Bologn^
Donatella Bysbraeck. Weetmacott, Ghantr^p Qibeon, Daily. Bosri, fto.
The ArehiUetunu department indodet drawings, models of bidldinsa, and deCaila. AnMog tlw
drawinn are those of all Sir John Soane's works, and others by Piraned, Zoeohi, Bibiena, Campanella,
Thomhill, Chambers, Kent, and Smirke; and a volame of drawings bj Thozpe, the JQisabethan archi<
tect. There are basts of Palladio, Wren, Chambers, Dance, &o.
The nine Etruscan Vases exhibit the Tsriety of shapes to be fbond in mooh larser ooUeeUona : one
/{he Enrlefleld) is of extreme rarity ; and the Cawdor vase is of extraordinary sixe ana elegantly enriched.
Amonff the Boman antiquities are real specimens and casts from the temple of Jimlter Stator at Bomcw
and oMhe Sibyl or Vesta at TiroU, Ac.
The AiMquUiet and Ourio$Uiea are as osefbl to artists and pattern-drawers u the new rooms In the
Lonvre at Paris. The oitire collection cost Sir John Soane upwards of S/dfiOOk
The Museum is not merely hiteresting as a sight or show-house, but of great senries for arUatte
study in architecture, sculpture, planting, and house decoration. The number of visitorB in a year are
from 2000 to 9000 persons. The remoyal of the contents of the Museum has been proposed, to extend
its beneficial effects; but it is urged, and we think with success, that the donor intended the CollectifOfi
should nerer be removed from its present location, as he fitted up the house for its lece^ion in the moet
elaborate and peculiar manner.— (Am "A Morning in Sir John doane's Museum," in Waik* amd Tatkt
iiboiU London; and a paper, with four large engravings in the IlbutnUd London Now, May, ladi).
SooixTY 07 Abts, 18, John-street^ Adelphi (the house hmlt hy the farotheia Adam, in
MUSEUMa. 603
1772^74), has Barry's celebrated pictures upon the walls of the Ckmndl-room, and a
few portraits, Ac ; to be seen gratis, between 10 and 4 daily, except Wednesday and
Sunday. The collection is constantly recdving interesting additions.
The Model Bepository, 42 feet by 35 feet, on the groond-floor, contains one of the
most extensiTe collections of models in Enrope.
Hen «e "hands for the oi^lMaded, and other inatnioMiits Ibr those who havo lost botht dothMof
all sorts of iiiat«risls from all countriea ; medala <tf Charles I.'t reign, and the last new ate vo of V ictoria'B ;
fire-escape ladders to ran down from windows and scaffolds, ridng telesoope fashion oat of a box, to
mount rooft; beehives and tornhhalicers, plonghs and instraments to restram Tldous balls, pansto pre-
eerve batter in hot eoantries, aaw^-lamps; models of massive eranes and of little tips for nmbreUas|
life-baoys and maroon-lodks ;. diving-bells and expanding kevs; safety-coaohes and traps; docks, and
tail-pieces fbr vlcdoneellos : mstroments to dnw spirits and to draw teeth; samples of tea. sogar, dn-
namon. and notmega, in different stages of growxhj modela of Tnscan pavement ; beds for mvmlidsi
methods to teach t& blind how to write" (Knighf s London) ; also^ the first piece of gutta perdia seen
In Borope, and presented to the Society 1843.
In the Ante-room, upstairs, are Nollekens's medallion of Jephtha's Vow, Bany's
pLctore of Eve tempting Adam, &c. The large pictures in the Coondl-room were
presented gratnitonsly by Barry, between 1777 and 1783, and were commenced when
he had bat sixteen shillings in his pocket ! They are — 1. Orpheus Civilizing the In-
liabitants of Thrace. 2. A Gredan Harvest-home. 8. Crowning the Victors at
Olympia. 4. Commerce, or the Triumph of the Thames. 5. The Distribution of
Preminms in the Society of Arts. 6. Elynum, or the State of Final Retribution.
.Harry has published etchings of these pictures, and has minutely described the subjects
in h^ published Works, voL ii. p. 828, edit. 1809. They were exhibited, and pro-
duced Barry 5002., to which the Society added 2/OOL The Victors at Olympia is the
finest work of the series : Canova declared the sight of it to be worth a voyage to
England. In the Distribution picture are introduced portraits of Shipley, Arthur
Yonng, the Prince of Wales, Mrs. Montagu, Sur George Savile, Bishop Hurd, Soame
Jenyns, the two beantifbl Duchesses of Rutland and DevonsMre, the Duke of lUch-
mond. Lord Folkestone, William Lock, Edmund Burke, and Dr. Johnson. The
Betribution contains great and good men of all ages and times. Each of the latter
pictures is 42 feet long. Barry <Ued in 1806, and his remains lay in state in the
room which the grandeur of his genius had so magnificently adorned. In the
ante-room is a portrait of Barry ; and in the large room are portraits of Lord
Folkestone, by Gainsborough: L<»d Bomney, by Sir Joshua Reynolds; a marble
statue of Dr. Ward, by Carlini ; busts of Dr. Franklin and Barry; and casts of Venus,
Hars, and Narcissus, by John Bacon.
The Sodety have held in the Great Room annual Exhibitions of Decorative Manu-
factures, and andent and Medissval Art ; and the collected works of Mulready, Etty,
and other artists of note. But the benefits which the country has derived from the
Society of Arts culminate in their initiative services in the origin and organization of
the Great Exhibitions of 1851 and 1862, under the wisdom-tempered seal of the Royal
President of the Sodety, Prince Albert, the benefidal effects of whose sagacity, fore-
sight, and integrity in contributing to the true glozy of the nation become, year by
jear, the more fully appreciated.
South Esksinoton Mvsetth commenced with the erection ui 1856 of an iron
structure under the superintendence of Sir W. Cubitt (which, from its engineering
unsightliness, got the sobriquet of " the Boilers"), and when completed was given by
the Commissioners of the Exhibition of 1851, into the possession of the Science and
Art Department. Since that date a permanent brick and iron structure, with terra-
cotta deoorationsy has been erected. The building was planned, and its construction
anperintended up to the year 1865, by Captun Fowke, R.E. Its decorations^ external
and internal, were designed by Mr. Qodttej Sykes, originally a student of the Sheffield
School of Art. The site is of irregular form, bounded on three ddes by straight lines^
iind with three slightiy acute angles, the narrowed portion being towards the north or
rear. The two longer boundaries abut on the Cromwell and Exhibition Roads ; the
former measuring about 740 feet, the latter about 600 feet; the prindpal front and the
entrances towards the south — that is, Cromwell-road. It would occupy more space
than is at our disposal to describe the plan of the several Museum buildings, to be erected
from time to time^ as the requittte funds are voted bv Parliament. The central portion
604 CURIOSITIES OF LONDON,
is Italian in general effiact. The moat novel characteristics are dae to the employmeBt
of coloured materials — ^namely, for the oonstnxction, bright red bricks, in two tints;
and for the ornament, terra-cottas of deep red, and a pale, but not harshly white, hue;
tile tessene in chocolate and warm grey for mosaics, inserted in panels on the froot,
and for a large one in the pediment ; and mtgolica with white gronnd, reUeved with
yellow and bine, for the soffits of the arches <^ the colomnar recess in front, for the
arcades, &c The g^eat central columns are modelled with figures testifying the thiw
divisions of Man's Life, Childhood, Manhood, and Old Age^, alternating with a Ixmgb
modelled from "nature, and hud over fluting. The figures are medisBval in charsctcr,
in the style of Michael Angelo and Raphael. The subject fijr the tile-mosaic of the
pediment is an allegorical representation of the Queen opening the great Exhibition of
1861. The columns above described stand before the new Lecture Theatre^ a handsome
hall, calculated to seat about 600 persons.
The contents of the South KensiDgton Museum may be classified as follows :—
1. The Art Collections. wUch now nambw 12,680 otjjecta, iUnitnUTe of the history, prindpleii lad
proceeaes of deoomiiTe art fax scolptore, earrings in wood and ivorj, deoomtive ftimituxv, metal work,
goldsmithB* work, Jewellery and lapidariee' work, engraved gems, nieUo work, arms, armour, potterr,
{rlaaa, enamels, andent lac work, textile fabriea, miniatores, so. Ac An important fleatare in these «»•
ections is the reproduction bj means of casUnff, and electrotTpT, of rare and costlj works of art is
other coontries. with which the Department of Science and Art is deairoaa of efibctioff exchanges of
soch reprodoetionB. Another feature is the permanent Loan Exhibition of valnable olgects of art be-
longing to private owners. The Mnseom also contains a large and valoable number of modem Eogiis^
paintings mainly presented by the late Mr. Sheepshanks, and water-coloar drawings, prin^Uj
bequeathed by Mr. Ellison, as well as the Cartoons of Saphael lent by her Migesty ; and it affordi
temporary accommodation for the exhibition of many paintings of the British School which belong
to the National Gallery.
2. The Art Library, containing aboat 15,000 Tolomes reUting to art, and a great nnmber of oii^
drawinffs, illominations. andengravijigs.
3. The Educational Museum and library, containing manr educational works In various Europea
languages, and sdentiflc apparatus and diagrams, chiefly lent by the inventors and pablisbcn.
4 The Museum of Construction and Building Materials, containing examples of materials and ^»-
paratus of use in buildinjr, draining, and decorating houses; and manv architectoral models.
6. The Museum of Animal Products and Food Collection, principally formed by the tramfereoeel;
English and Foreign commissions of collections exhibited in the International t^rhihiHnM of Londoe
in 1801 and 1802, and of Paris in 1855.
6. The Naval Models, belonging to Uie Admiralty, supplemented by loans from private boildenasd
owners. The Admiralty Collection shows the various changes in the construction of men-of-war froa
1416 down to the present time.
The following are the terms on which the Museum Is open to the public : —
The Museum is open daily, Sundays excepted, free, on Mondays, Tuesdays, and Saturdays, from
10 A.M. till 10 f.u. The Students' days are Wednesdays, Thursdays, and Fridays, when the public ai«
admitted on payment of 9d. each person, from 10 aoc. till 4 p.x. Tickets of admission to tha Unseua,
including the Art-library and Educational Reading-room, are issued.
Here, also, is the Mnseom of Patents, mainly founded by Mr. Benet Woodcroft, ind
greatly extended by the zeal of the present cnrator, F. Petit Smith. The collectioa
includes " patriarchal models," from the parent engine of Steam Navigation to the
model of the engine of the Great Eastern; historical locomotives, and machines of
endless ingenuity ; with a collection of portraits of inventors, scientific library, &c
(See Patent Seal Ovfiob Librabt, p. 522.)
The authorities at the South Kensington have considerably encouraged mosaio decoration. Thar
first proposition was to decorate with mosses the fk^ade of the picture-galleries of the 1862 ExhlbitiiHi
buUding. Subsequently they caused a number of mosaics of divers kinds to be inserted in Tarioos
parts of the new and permanent buildings of the Soutii Kensington Museum. The xaost important of
these is the series of nrures which are inserted in compartments of the wall-arcade of the south court
of the Museum. Of tnese the most important are Apelles, Mr. Poynter; Cimabue, Mr. F. Leigbtoi,
A.B.A. ; the Saphael, Godfrey Svkes; the Qiorgione, Mr. Prmsep.
The Sheepshanks' valuable collection of Pictures by modem British artasts is ftxUy equal, and if ia
some respects superior, to the Vernon Collection. The works of Leslie, B.A., and Mulready, ILA.. cu
nowhere be studied to greater advantage. Obgerve : Highland Drovers, The Shepherd's Chief Moaner,
Jack hi Office, the Breakfast, ail by £. Landseer, B.A.; IXmcan Gray and the Broken Jar, bj SirD.
Wilkie; Choosing the Wedding Gown, The Ball, Giving a Bite, First Love, all by W. Mulready. B.^:
Scene from the Merry Wives of Windsor, Uncle Toby and Widow Wadman, both by C. B. Le^e, &A.
Paintings in oil, 233 specimens ; Drawings and Sketches, 103 specimens.
On May 20, 1867, here was Isud with great State, by Queen Victoria, the fiist stone
of "the Royal Albert Hall of Arts and Sciences," a vast elliptical building, of red
brick, with terra-cotta decorations, estimated to cost 200,000Z.
Tbadescants* Musettm, at South Lambeth (see p. 185), contfuned not onlj
stuffed animals and dried plants, but also minerals ; implements of war and domestic
use, of various nations ; and a collection of coins and medals. In the Catalogae en*
MUSEUMS. 605
titled Museum TVadeseantium, 1656, we find, " Two feathers of the phoenix tayle f
"a natural dragon;" and a stuffed specimen of the Dodo, belieTod to have been ex-
hibited alive in London in 1688 ; its head and foot are pres^'ed in the Ashmolean
Moseum at Oxford, of which the Tradescants' collection formed the nucleus.
Tbivitt House Mubstth, Tower Hill, contains various models of lighthouses,
floating-lights, life-boats, and a noble model of the " Royal William," 150 years old.
Among the naval Curiosities is the flag taken by Sir Francis Drake, in 1588, from the
Spaniards ; pen-and-ink plans of sea-fights, temp, Charles II. ; Chinese map ; pair of
colossal globes, Ac ; besides a large picture, by Gainsborough, of the Elder Trinity
Brethren, and numerous portraits and basts. To be seen by Secretary's order.
United Sebyicb iKSTirunoN Musettm, Whitehall-yard, contains an Armoury,
Chinese cabinet and model gallery, antiquities, and an ethnological collection ; a lecture-
theatre and library. This institution, which was founded in 1830, under the patronage
of King William IV. and the Duke of Wellington, has the support of most of the
officers of rank in both sendees, and has received from her Majesty a Royal charter of
incorporation.
The visitor first passes throagrh rooms eontsinlng the arms and armour of the Esquimaux,
New Zeidander, inhabitants of the Polynesian Islands, Australia, and of Africa, and then enters
the Eoropean armouxr. Bound this room are displayed firearms from the time of Henry VIII.
to Victoiia; in the windows are cases oontaininff swords of heroes, amongst them the sword of
Chromwell which he carried at the siege of Drogheda; a small sword of Kelson; and dirks and
yataghans fVom the Greek Islands. In a spacious room are arranged a scries of models of steam-
engines from the first appliance of steam to the screw-engines of the present time; here also are models
of tents by Maiot Bhodcs and Mr. Turner. The next room contains a collection of the arm% accoutre-
ments, clothing, and field equipment of a soldier of the Line and rifleman of our own and of the Prussian,
Austrian. Belgian, and Sardinian armies, with the addition in the case of Sardinia of thoae of a cavalry
and artillery soldier. These have been presented to the institution by tiie reapectiTe GoTemments. The
grand staircase is guarded, as it wer^ by two men-at-arms of the time of Charles I. On the walls are
pikes, spears, hehnets, and long two-nanded swords, and on either side shirts of ringed mail of the time
of the Cmsaders; a genuine English longbow of the time of Henry VIII.; and arrows taken out of the
citadel of Aleppo, supposed to oe of the time of the Cmsaders. The Asiatic Armoury has its walls
covexed with spesrs, sabres, shields, matchlocks, and o* her descriptions of arms and armour from Borneo,
Jara, and Ceylon, to the Punjaub and Afighanistan. In this room are also to be seen the dress worn by
TIppoo Sahib at the capture of Seringapatom, and the pistols taken from his body after his fUl. Next
is the Enfield ^fle Boom, where is exfaibited tbe Enfleid rifle in all stages of manulkctore, from speci-
mens of the raw material to the finished rifle. In the naTal departments are models of TessebL fttnn the
most perfect model of a line^f-batUe ship, put together in a bottle by one of the French prisoners of
war in Norman Cross Prison, to a large one of the ComwaUi*, 74, built in Bombay ; and firom the heavr,
cumbrous build of the Dutch man-of-war of 16IX) to the beautiful lines of the modem frigate : also, models
of guns and anchors, Cuningham's plan for reefln^p topsails tram the deck, ClilTord's Doat*lowering
apparatus, li^boats, and gun-rafts. Next are ouriosities : fi:om Drake's walking^tick to Cook's punch-
bowl and chronometer : modds of foreign craft, from the Maltese nlley to the Malayproa and the birch-
bark canoe of Uie IndUm. Here, also, is the table made ih>m the wood of the Fietoty whm under
repair, on which are the relics of the Tarious expeditions in search of Sir J. FranUln. Also, an
Australian Boomerang : tbe stone upon which Capt. Cook fell dead at Owhyee ; war implements fW»n all
rarts of the world ; a piece of the deck of the Vietorjf, from tiie spot on which Nelson fell ; Napoleon
BonapMte's ftasil, razor and shaving-brush, and flrasment of his coffin ; articles found on the field of
Waterloo; relics of the JBoyaZ Qtcrge, sunk 1782. ana the Mary Bom, 1646; chronological series of fire-
arms (James II. to William IV.) ; skeleton of the norse Marengo, rode by Napoleon at Waterloo; Chinese
trophies and chain-shot ; P(dar bear and wolf shot by Sir Geonpe Back ; wooden Chinese cage Ibr hnnum
prisoner ; first uniform worn in the British navy; hat of Lord Nelson: Chinese magic mirror; models
of ships of all nations; ibrtifioation models; sreat model of Lini and its camp: and pictures ofbattiea.
Also, Capt. Siboroe's Model of the Battle of Waterloo; scale, 9 feet to a mile, area 440 square feet;
showing the entire field, and the British, French, and Prussian armies, by 190,000 metal figures : with
the viUages, houses, flumyards, and clumps of trees : cost Captain Siborne 4000Z.; purchased ror the
Institution by subscription. Her^ also, are Colonel Hamilton's model of the Sontn of the Crimea ;
models of the different systems of fortification, with relies commemoratire of the Peninsular. Waterloo,
and tbe Crimean campaigns. The Library contains between 11,000 and 12,000 volumes of works on naval
and militarv history, Diography, improvements in arms, and meral sdenoe. The topographical depart-
ment contains the naval ohwts. and maps, and plans, suppUod \3j the Admiralty and war Departments;
here on maps are marked out, by pins and ooloured oaras, warlike operationa or peaoefU movements
over the world. The reading-room is well supplied with the military periodicals of ue day. During the
season lectures on suttjeets of passing interest, or bearing on the naval or military servioes, are delivered.
The United Service Institution u supported by entranoe-fees, IZ.; annual Bubsoription, 10». The
public are admitted daily, f^ bj members* orders.
UNiYBSSixr COLLBOB, Gowor-street. The Anatomical Miueam, haaed npon the
collection of Sir Charles Bell, conasts of 4066 spedmena in catalogue^ and large addi-
tions. Also, the modehi in wax hy Toson, inclnding the celebrated case of Ichthyosis
cornea; 700 coloured drawings by Sir R. Carswell, and 200 by Armstrong; the heart
and throat of Uamo Samee (the sword-swallowing Indian juggler), ob. 24 July, 1849 1
a Skull from the Wreck of the JSoyal Qeor^e; bones and a Skull from ancient Greek
606 CURIOSITIES OF LONDON.
graves ; n Head from the CKtacombs in Paris ; an Elephant's Heart $ reputed frsgments
of bones of the Good Dnke Humphrey and Robert Bruce ; and a cast from Hervej
Leach (Her?io Nano)» ob. March, 1847. Here, also, is the skeleton of Jeremy Bentham,
dressed in the dothes which he usoally wore» and with a wax fkce modeDed by Dr.
Tah7ch : also a portion of skin from the body of the first person obtained under the
New Anatonucal Act (Lady Harrington). A Museum of Comparatiye Anatomy, and •
fine Materia Medica cxkUection. Tbie Natural Philosophy Models are good. In the
Drawing School are three marble figures in relief of the Hindoo Trinity, Brahma,
Vishnu, and Siva, dug up from the ruins of a dty in a forest 60 miles east of Baroda.
In the School, alsOi is a odQedaon of Casts, iiioluding the Apollo made in Bome ta
Flaxman, the Laocoon, Ac.
Waterloo Mussmi, Pall Mall, was a collection of portraits, battle-soenei^ coeitmaa,
and trophies, cuirasses^ helmets^ sabres^ and fire-axms^ from the field of Waterloo^
exhibited 1815.
WsEKs'B MuBBVX, 3, Hchbome-street, established about 1810, was fiuned fbr its
mechanical Curiosities. The grand room, by Wyatt^ had a cdling punted by Bebeca
and Singleton. Here were two temples^ 7 fret high, supported by 16 elephants, and
embellislied with 1700 pieces of jewellery. Among the automata were tbe tarantola
spider and burd of paradise. Weeks's Museum has long been dispersed; alter his
death, March 23, 1864, were sold many of the large meclianical pieces originally exhi-
bited at his museum, comprising the large swan of ceased nlver ; alaojtemples, birdcages,
docks, and automaton figures, several with musical movements; also a great variety of
clocks and candelabra, miniatures, musical birdboxes, watches, &c The chased mlver
swan was in the Great Paris Exhibition of 1867. Weeks's Gkllery was subsequently
the show-rooms of the Rockingham Works, where, in 1837* was exhibited a splendid
porcelain dessert-service, made for WilHam IV. : 200 pieces, painted with 760 anbjectE^
occupied 5 years, and cost 80002. In 1851 the place was refitted by Robin, tbe oonjuror.
Zoological Sooistt's Mttsbttu, Thb, was originally commenced in Bmton-streeiv
then removed to No. 26, Leicester-square ; and is now contained in a building erected
for it in the Society's Cfarden, R^ent's Park, about 1843. This Museum was pro-
jected upon an extensive scale: during the earlier years of its formation, it waa^
8cientifl<ailly, the great collection of this country; but it soon became edipeel by the
rapid accumulation with which Dr. Gray enriched the galleries of the British Museum ;
and as the national collection gradually assumed the important place which it now
ooenpies among the great public institutions of Europe, the Council of the Zoological
Society withdrew from the competition, and concentrated their effiirts towards thdr
Yivariom. Tbehr Museum is arranged to convey an idea of the Generic FOnns of the
Vertebrate Division of the Animal Kingdom. By this method, most of the essential
difibrences of form are well illustrated in a reduced number of spedmens* so as to im-
press a casual observer with the distinctive fiaatures of each frmily. Among the ftwiiwiy
preserved are many of the rarest and most corioos known to exist, and selected from
the original oollecUon, commenced with the gifts of Sir Thomas Stamford Raffles, the
first Ptesident of the Zoological Society : and Mr. N. A. Vigors, its first Secretary.
Private Colleotiohs.— The following have been mosUy dispersed ; or when they
exist can only be seen by private introduction to the proprietors.
AiUdjo, Mr. John, Noel Souse, Kentington : an extensive assemblage of Antique
and Medieval Articles of Vertu; including a portion of a Greek glass vase, of similar
execution to tbe Portland Vase : it is ornamented with foliage and birds, and was
found at Pompdi in 1833. This collection has been dispersed.
OwiU, Mr. George, S, Union'gtreet, Southwark ; and CheUt, Mr. Joseph, 20,
Jhingdtm-Hreet, WetUuintter: Collections of Architectural Antiquities; the former
especially rich in Southwark relics (some Roman), old London Bridge, &c
Londe^torovffh, the late Lord, 8, Carlton Soute-terraee, formed a ooQectaon of
Antiquities ranging from the earliest English period. Saxon remains, urna^ arms, and
articles of personal decoration, prindpally excavated by his lordship from tumuli in
Kent. Also Iridih gold antiques, valuable and curious ; and medisBval gold and silver
MU8I0 BALLS.
607
work in jewels, cops, &c., and a yeiy fine ooUeddon of Anglo-Saxon relics, priudpally
ornaments, from the Isle of Wight. Arms and armour, artistically wrought and richly
decorated (bnt chiefly preserved at Grimstone, in Yorkshire). Lady Londesboroagh
also collected a series of many hundred antique rings, ranging from the early Egyptian
times to the seyenteenth century. These collections were shown at cimoerMtuiofU
' given by Lord and Lady Londesborough during the London season. There is a
' privately printed Catalogue, by Mr. T. Crofton Croker, F.S.A.
Mofffdae, Mr, JT., 87, Jermyihstreet, 8t, Jame^t: a ooUecUon chiefly remark-
able for its fine Ecdesiasticol Works — croeieni, reliquaries, pyxea^ &c. Also fine ex-
amples of Andent Carved Furniture^ and other specimens of medisBvol art.
Marry at, Mr, Joseph, author of a Sistory qfJPoUety, until 1866 possessed a large
collection of Ceramic Works, particularly Fleniish and German, but exhibiting gene-
rally the varied forms and peculiarities of the entire manu&oture : formerly at Bich-
mond-tenaoe^ Whitehall ; removed to the Tnescedwyn Lron-works, Swansea.
Morgan, Mr, Oeiaoims, F,8,A., 9, FcUl Mall, possesses a very valuable series of
Andent Clocks and Watdies ; particularly remarkable for its historic illustration of the
gradual improvement in Watches, from the earliest period to that of Quare and
Tompion.
Bothsehild, the Baron Lionel de, 148, FieeadiUy, has a costly collection of
Mediaeval Art. Also Antique Pottery, induding a candlestick formed of white day,
rare Henzy II. ware (French), which cost the Baron 220^. : not more than 27 articles
of this wore are known to exist.
Sainsbury, Mr,, 13, Upper Banelagh-Hreet, Pimlieo : Historical MSS. and
Autographs, 1473 to 1848; enamels, miniatures, medals, and coins; books, drawings,
and prints; Shakspeore relics (induding the Gorrick cup); Napoleon Collection
exhibited at the "Napoleon Museum/' at the Egyptian Hall, Piccadilly. This
collection has been dispersed.
Blade, Mr, Felix, Waleot-plaee, Lamheth, possesses a collection of Pottery and
Glass of the Middle Ages : the latter unmatched in examples of Venetian workmanship.
W indue, the late Mr, T„ Stamford Sill, collected, in a building of style 1550,
carvings in ivory, mother-of-pearl, and wood; crystals, antique gems, and rings;
mosaics, cameos, medals, and coins; Gredan pottery; drawings by Rubens, Eembrandt^
and Vandyke ; flkc-simile of the sorcophagxu in whidi the Portland Vase was found.
MUSIC HALLS.
THE following list of these places of entertainment^ licensed by the Magistrates under
the Act of George II. for " music' and dandng," together with the cost of building
and fittii^ and the number of persons accommodated, is thus given in a statement
laid before Parliament:—
Crystal Palace ...
Agrioultanl-holl ...
Bt, Jomes'B-hall
8t. Martln'B-hall
£xetei^baU
Gallery of lUastntion ...
£gnrptuai-haU
Pof7KTaphio<haU
PolvMcnnlo
Alhambra. LdoMter-sq. ...
Oxford, Ozford-itnet ...
Strand. Strand
CanterDorj-haU, LambeA
Metropolitan, Bdgware-rd.
Begent, Westmbister
WnUxa**, WeUclose-sq. ...
Bvana'a. Covent-gardea ...
Wc«ton% Holboni
phllharmonk^ IiUiUfton,..
U vbbiury Barn, Hiffhbaij
[Cambridge, Sborediich ...
IVifkohaMr, Sobthwark ...
Coitof
Buildings
and
Fitthigs.
...£1,000,000
£0,000
60,000
60,000
... 60,000
6,000
6,000
6,000
20.000
60,000
40,000
ao,ooo
26,000
26,000
26,000
20,000
20.000
20,000
20,000
20,000
10,000
16,000
No. of
Personi Ao>
oomniodated
Dailj.
... 100,000
... 20,000
6,000
4^000
... 6.000
600
600
600
... 1,000
... 6,000
2.000
1,600
1,600
2,000
1,600
1.600
1.000
1.600
1,600
2,000
2^000
2,000
Cost of
Buildhvct
and
Fittings.
LordBaglan,Theoba]d's-rd. £12.000
No. of
Persons Ac-
commodated
Daily.
1,600
1,200
Middl6s«x,I>niry-lane ... 12,000
London Pavilion, Tldi-
bome-fltreet 12.000
Sooth London, London-rd. 8,000
Maiylebone 8,000
Oriental, Poplar 7,000
Boroog-h « 6,000
Bedford, Gamden-town ,„ SfiOO
Deacon's, Clerken well ... 6,000
Tni70T, Knightsbridge ... 6,000
Son, ^lightsbridge ... 6,000
Lanadowne, Islington ... 4^000
Bodney, WUtachapel ... 8.000
Apollo^ Bethnal-groea ... 8,000
Westminster, Plmlico ... 8,000
Nag's Head, Lambeth ... 2.000
Woodman, Hoiton ... 2,000
Eastern Alhambra 2.000
Swallow-street 2,000
Totals, 41 places ... £1,687,000 ... 179,800
608 CUBIOaiTIES OF LONDON.
From thia list a number of small tavem-ooncert rooms are exdadedL It should be
further diminished by the removal of the '* Gallery of IDnstration,'' wbidi baa beea
licensed by the Chamberlain for theatrical entertainments. The first of these places
opened was Cantbbbusy Hall» Lambeth, with its expennve deooraUons, its larp
marble reliefs by Oeefs; and its handsome Picture Ghdlery, and really good col-
lection of modem paintings. The new enterprise prored very saooesaful, and there
sprang up in different quarters of the metropolis, Music-halli^ the great majority d
which were successful speculations^, and they are now more numerous than the regrikr
theatres. The second Music Hall was WB8TOir'8» High Holbom, of aplendid, if boc
tastefhl ornamentation.
Thb Oxpobd, Oxford-street, is decorated in the Italian styles and is 94 feet 'm
lengthy 44 feet in width, between Corinthian columns which support the Toof, with a pro-
menade beyond on each side. The ceiling is coved on to the walls, and springs fromtk
top of an ornamental entablature. The columns are arranged in pairs. A large glss
chimdeUer here has a very pretty effisct from below,— a tree of light. The hall is
lighted with star burners.
Thb Alhakbri. Palacb, Ldcester-square, formerly the Panoptacon, aooordisg to
a statement hud before Parliament, represents a capital of 100,000^., and employs 320
persons of both sexes^ paying wages at the rate of nearly 4I60L per week. It b><
increased the wages of ballet-girls at least 20 per cent. It receives on an avenge
8000 vintors every night, at an average admission price of Is, per head ; and tbe
expenditure of each person in drink, eatables, and cigars, averages about 7d. Tbe
working classes, for whom an upper gallery capable of holding 1000 persons is pro-
vided, attend in large numbers. The item in tbe statement relative to the oonfluop-
tion of refreshments shows that the money expended by the visitors on eating aod
drinking amounts to little more than half the money received for admismon.
PHUiHASiiOirao Hall, Islington, is an Italian Renaissance saloon, of large size, with
a classic entrance, Ionic distyle in antis.
St. Jaxbs's Hall is described at p. 426 ; and St. MABTnr's Hall at p. 427.
Etakb'b, Covent Garden, is mentioned at p. 294. This noble room, designed hj
Finch Hill, was built in.l865, upon the garden in tbe rear of Evans's Hotel. It is in
a bold, handsome style, with a coved ogling, richly ornamented. It is divided br
fluted columns into nave and aisles^ and emb^shed with figures of Poetry, the Dnana.
Music, &C. ; and it is brilliantly lighted by gas in ten richly-cut lustres. Here are sung
glees^ madrigals, and other fine old melodies; beudes pieces from fbrdgn openu^ and
■ongs and ballads by living composers.
Stbajo) Mubio Hall, Strand, in the main building covers what was the ate of
new Exeter Change, and the area and promenade is stated to oontwn about 6000 sqoare
feet. The roof is of wrought iron and zinc, and here is the large lighting chamber,
with its 350 ventilating tubes, conducted into enormous shafts, to convey tbe vitiated
air out of the building. The gas-light from several thousand burners passes throng^
the coloured glass of the roof or cdling, supported by cast-iron columns, with wroagbt-
copper foliated capitals. The Strand front (Keeling, architect). Is partly of stone, fire
stories, elaborately sculptured by Tolmie, with capitals, marble shafts, and medallioD
heads of composers (Handel, Mozart, Bosani, Bishop, Mendelssohn, &c.), and metal
work. The porch has scarcely an inch of surface that is not carved : yet, notwitb*
standing its sculptured heads, the building does not speak its puipose. Continentil
Gothic is the basis of this eclectic desig^.
AaBiOTTLTTiBAL Hali^ Islington, is described at p. 424. Its exhibitions and
performances are miscellaneous. In 1865, the profits of the Horse show exceeded tfaoie
of 1865 by more than 1000^., and those of the Cattle show by more than 900/. '^
Metropolitan and Provindal Working Men's Exhibition in 1865 was visited by nearly
half a million persons, and i»oduced to the Company a net rent of nearly a thousand
pounds.
HiGHBUBT Babv, Islington, has one of tbe few remiuning old assembly-rooms of
the last century ; and in addition, a yery elegant theatre for dramatic performanoes.
IKEW BIKEB. 609
GnsciAV, City-rood, has a large and elegant Hall for dandng, and out-door orchestra,
and platform, in addition to a commodious Theatre.
Hjlnoyeb Squase Roous, on the east side of Hanover-square, were built for con-
certs and balls* by Sir John Gallini, formerly one of the managers of the Italian Opera
In this country. They have lately been re-deoorated in elegant style.
The oellinar of the larae room (the only decorationB of which previoosly to these alterations were the
old pictures by Ciprisni) nas been ornamented with enrichments in composition and ** carton pierre;'*
a trellis pattern being placed in the bands across the ceiling, and a laurel in the longitudinal bands,
with a crest ornament on the ceUhig round each panel. The fluted pilasters on the waUs have been re-
tained; but the cornice over them has been deepened about 7 in., and has been enriched by the addition
of mouldings, and with fbstoons of fVuit and flowers to the firiese all round. The old Boyu box has been
re-construGted in wood and *' carton pierre," surmounted by an arohed top, having a lozenge with the
Soyal cipher supported by the figures of two boys, the top being supported by two pilasters and the
figures of two female Caryatides, terminating in scroll-work, with fruit and flowers runidng down the
panels of the pilasters. The front of the orchestra has been ornamented with musical trophies and
iSestoons of fruit sad flowers, with medallions placed over the two doorways at the sides. Tne panels
over the looking^Iasses are each filled with a medallion, jMunted in bas-relief, of some of the most cele-
brated composers— Bach, Beethoven, Handel, Haydn, Weber, Bosshii, Purcell, and others, with their
namn, and the century in which theyflourished. In the two wide panels in the orchestra are painted
medallions of CaUoott and Bishop. The plinth round the room under tiie pilasters is decorated in imita-
tion of various coloured marbles. The Royal box is finished in white, buif. and gold, with paintings re-
presenting Peace and Plenty, and the four Seasons, and crimson and gold damask hanginn. The old
method of lighting by means of sunlights has been dispensed with, and a novel mode of lighting has
been introduced by suspending firom tne ceiling, along each side, hemispheres of silvered glass, with the
flat sides upwards, having twelve Jets to each, radiating to the centre, in a star-like form underneath.—
Abridg9dJr»H Oe Butlder,
SuBBET MvBio Hall, Walworth, was erected in 1856, upon the site of the Surrey
Zoological Gardens, Horace Jones, architect. The hall was oblong, with semi-octa-
gonal endsy and three tiers of galleries round three sides, the orchestra occupying one
end. There were four octagonal staircases, one at each comer; and on the side
next the lake were two external galleries. The hall had an arched roof, and externally
cappings, partaking of the Chinese pagoda and the Turkish minaret. The vast,
apartment was 153 feot long, 68 wide, and 77 high in the centre, and would hold
12,000 persons besides 1000 in the orchestra ; it was 20 feet longer and 30 feet wider
than Exeter Hall, and cost about 18,2002. Its acoustic properties were perfect. It
was opened in July, 1856. On October 19th, following, during a religious service here,
by the Rev. C. H. Spurgeon, eight persons were killed^ and thirty seriously injured,
in consequence of a false alarm of fire raised in the halt Its success as a musical
speculation was short-lived ; and the premises were subsequently let for the temporary
St. Thomas's Hospital^ removed here from Southwark. (See p. 435.)
NEW RIVEB,
A FINE artifidal stream, yielding almost half the water-supply of London, or nearly
the whole of the Ci^, and a large portion of the metropolis northward of the
Thames. The New River rises from Chad well Springs, and springs at Amwell, between
Hertford and Ware, 21 miles from London, and is fed by the river Lea and wells sunk
in the chalk. One of these ancient springs — the old Amwell spring— oozed away
silently about 1830 into the bed of the Lea. The Chadwell spring, that mysterious^
nrcular, chalky pool in the Hertfordshire valley, which has been the drinking
fountain for centuries of countless thirsty millions, no longer gives forth drink with
ts accustomed liberality.
The New River was prqjected by Hugh Myddelton, a native of Denbigh, and
' citizen and goldsmith," who proposed to the City to bring to London a supply of water
it his own cost. His offer wab accepted ; and April 20, 1608, was commenced the
work, with very imperfect mechanical resources. Myddelton embarked the whole of
lis fortune in the undertaking; the original number of shares was only 86; the
abourers received half-a-crown a day. ^e works were stopped at Enfield for want
if funds ; Myddelton applied to the citizens for aid, which they refused ; he then solidted
fames I., who, on May 2, 1612, stood by his side and shared his venture. From
he Calendar of State Papers it appears that the total payments out of the Treasury
m account of the New River works amount to 86092. 14s. 6d. The King obtained
hereby 36 shares for the Crown, of each of which the value is now about 17,0002.,
ind all of which the necessities of Charles I. compelled him to alienate for a fee-fimn
eiO CURIOSITIES OF LONDON.
rent of 5002. a year ! The asMrtiooB that half-a->million was apent in the ooortroctiaii
of the New River, that Myddelton made it oat of the profits of a Welsh nlver mine,
that he died in poverty, &c, are without foundation. The river was oonstmcted for
ahout 17,000^, and Myddelton himself lived long enpngh to derive a large profit from
its financial prosperity. King James, hy the way, tumhled into it ; and when he was
puUed out " there came much water out of his mouth and hody ;" and much chols
thereupon when he afterwards encountered Myddelton, and complained of bis omitting
to put up a fence. Sir Hugh was ohliged to part with his 86 shares, when they were
divided among various persons ; these are called " adventurers' '' shares. The 72 parts
into which the property is now divided are still counted as 36 " adventurers' " and 36
" King's " shares, and the Royal annuity is still paid out of the profits apportioned to the
latter. It is a curious fact that Sir Hugh precluded James from taldng any psrt in
the management of the company, although he allowed a person to be present at the
meetings, to prevent injustice to his Royal principaL This preclusion still extends
to the holders of the Royal shares. The works were now resumed; and on the 29th
Sept. 1613, five years and five months from the commencement of the undertakings
and the day on which Sur Thomas Myddelton, Hugh's brother, was elected Lord Major,
the water was let into the basin at ClerkenweU (which had been previously a ducking-
pond — " an open, idoll pool ") with great ceremony, before the Lord Mayor, aldermen,
and principal citizens: a troop of labourers "wearing green Monmouth caps, and
carrying spades, shovels, and pickaxes," marched after drums round the cistem; and
one man «lelivered forty-eight lines in verse, ending with :—
* Kow for the fhdti, then. Flow forth, predoos apriog^
So long and dearly aought for, and now bring
Ck>mfort to all that love thee ; loodl j ling.
And with thy crystal murmors struck together.
Bid all thy troa well-wishera welcome hither.".
*' When the floodgates flew open, the stream ran gallant^ into the dsteme, drummn
and trumpets sounding in triumphall manner, and a brave peal of chambers (ffua)
gave full issue to the intended entertainment." There is an engraving by George
Bickham of this animated ceremony. It shows the water flowing into a round
reservoir, around which are grouped various persons, conspicuous among whom
is the Lord Mayor, upon a white horse. On his left is Sir Hugh Myddelton,
on the right is his brother, between Sur Thomas and Sir Henry Montague, the
Recorder. Bishop Parker speaks of " the greate distruction of cheese-cakes at the
opening of the New River;" Islingtou having long been celebrated fbr its cakes and
cream.
Then came the difficulty of distributing the water ''by pipes of stone and lead." In
Hugbson's London, vol. vL p. 368, is the copy of a lease g^ranted in 1616 by Hogh
Myddelton to a citizen and his wife "of a pipe or quill of half-inch bore, for the sereioe
of their yarde and kitchene by means of two swan-necked cockes," for 26#. Sd. yearly.
And we read of the governor of Christ's Hospital, in 1681, paying fbr *^ New Ri^«r
water 4/." the year. And in 14>th Report of Commissioners of Charities, op to 1825:
Stafford's Almshoaaes in Qray's-inn-lane, for 10 persons, in 1651, stood upon half an
acre taken out of Liquorpond-field ; 30*. per annum paid to the New River Company
for water taken there. Such as lived at a distance from the main were supplied by the
water-carriers, who carried the water in wooden pails slung from a yoke across their
shoulders, and cried, "Any New River water hereP" In Tempest's Ciye9 of London,
1711, is eng^ved one of these old water-bearers. Hone, in 1827, said the cry was
scarcely extinct; and we recollect water thus cried at Hampstead, about 1851.
Myddelton was created a baronet in 1622. The proprietors were incorporated in
1619 as the New River Company, Sir Hugh being appointed the first governor, and
this being the first water company ; although Ben Jonson, in 1598» says, " We have
water-companies now, instead of water-carriers." (Every Man in ilis Bumour.)
The Charter makes it a penal offence to cast into the river earth, rubbish, soil,
gravel, stones, dogs, cats, cattle, carrion, &c ; prohibits, " under penalty o{ the
King's displeasure," persons from washing clothes, wool, &c., in it> and from conveying
thereto any sink, sewer, ditch, &o. ; and forbids the planting of sallowsi willowfl, or
NEW BIVEE. 611
€lms within five yards of it. In the Calendar of State Papers of this period are many
entries of grants of rents and profits, and places of emolument; but when, in 1665,
the King recommended Simon, son of Sir Hugh Myddelton, as clerk of the Company,
this appointment was refused. * No dividend was made by the Company till 1633,
when 11^ 9». Id. was divided upon each share. The second dividend amounted to
only 3/. 4t. 2d.
Sir Hugh died December 10, 1631, and was buried in the churchyard of St.
Matthew, Friday-street, London. He died, holding shares in the Company, and
others in mines in Wales. He bequeathed to the Gk>ldsmiths' Company one New
Kiver Share, which formerly produced 814/. per annum, but does not now reach 200/. ;
the produce is distributed half-yearly among the poor of the Company, especially to
men of Myddelton's name or Idndred. There is a fine portnut of Sir Hugh, by
Jansson, at Goldsmiths' Hall.
Lady Myddelton, the mother of the last Baronet, " received a pension of 20/. per
annum from the Goldsmiths' Company, which, after her death, was continued to her
son Hugh, though he possessed other property : he was a person of dissipated habits,
and with him the baronetcy became extinct. In July, 1808, the Corporation of London
ordered an annuity of 50/. to be paid to a male descendant of the Myddelton fiimily,
then in great distress. Another lineal descendant, Jabez Myddelton, received a pension
of 62/. per annum from the Corporation until his death, 27th March, 1828 ; and in
July of that year, Mrs. Jane Myddelton Bowyer had 80/. a year allowed her. This
annuity was reduced to 7'. a week in September, when Mrs. Plummer, another of the
fimiily (since dead) was permitted to receive the same weekly stipend. The Cor*
poration have since passed a resolution to the efiSect that they will grant no more re-
lief to Myddelton's fSunily."'-Finks'8 Sistofy of Clerkenwell, p. 468.
The lUver, in its devious course from the fountain-head at Chadwell, meanders
through the towns and villages of Hoddesden, CheAunt, Enfield, Hornsey, Stoke
Newington, and Islington; enters the parish of Clerkenwell at the bridge under
the CiosweU-road, and flowing through Owen's-row, submerges beneath St. John-street-
Toad ; thence it proceeds between Myddelton-plaoe and Sadler's Wells, and passing
beneath a third bridge, enters the Company's gprounds, where its waters are received
into the g^reat reservour called its Head. By the formation, since the year 1852, of
more direct channels at Warmley, Theobalds, Forty Hill, Enfield, Southgnte, Wood
Green, and Hornsey, the river has been shortened by about ten miles. The river,
between the Thatched House, Islington, and Colebrook-row, has, firom the first, passed
through an underground arch or tunnel The stream between Bird's-buildings and the
Head was covered by iron pipes in the year 1861. The Company obtained two Acts
of Flarliam(nit^l852, 15 & 16 Vict., cap. dx.; and 1854^ 17 T^ct., cap. Ixxii.— to
empower them to shorten the river, to filter the water, to cover their filtered water
reservoirs, and otherwise to improve and greatly enlarge their Works, at a cost of
nearly a million sterling. About where the New Rivei* enters Islington parish, it was
formerly conducted over the valley by an enormous wooden trough, 462 feet in length,
and 17 feet high, lined with lead, and supported on brick piers, and it then went by
the name of ** the Boarded River ;" but in 1776, a passage for the stream was made
in a banlc of earth nearly along the old track. There was a similarly boarded aqne-
dact constructed at Bush-hill, Edmonton, in 1606. Myddelton's house here gave,
perhaps, the first occanon to the project ; and the great addition this stream made to
the pleasures of Theobalds, encouraged James I., who resided there, to have the de«g^
completed, as it ran through his park and gardens. As a specimen of early engineer-
ing, this great work has an interesting and Instructive history.
The New River Head is a vast circular basin enclosed by a brick wall, whence the
'water is conveyed by sluices into large brick cisterns, and thence by mains and riders,
named according to the districts which they supply. Here is the Company's house,
originally built in 1613 : the board-room, over one of the cisterns, is wainscoted, and
has a fine specimen of Gibbons's carving; on the ceiling are a portrait of William III.,
and the arms of Myddelton and Green.
North of the Ne%v River Head, the stream was formerly let into a tank or reservoir
under the stage of Sadler's Wells Theatre, which was drawn up by machinery for
612 CURIOSITIES OF LONDON.
** real water" ncenes, the water being sufficiently deep for men to swim in. Formerly,
in the fields behind the British Mosenm, the New River pipes were propped np six or
eight feet, so that persons walked under them to gather water-cresses.
The entire works have cost upwards of a million and a half of money. The main source
of supply is now the River Lea. The water has only been filtered since 1852 ; the filter-
ing-beds, gravel and Harwich sand, have cost upwards of 35,0002. The water having
reached the Works at Islington, is there filtered, and delivered into a tunnel 800 feet
long, and 8/t. by 6ft. Gin. diameter, whence it is passed by steam-engines of 300 horse
power, into the service reservoir and distributing mains : the channels at IsUngton,
by Mylne, contain two millions and a half of bricks. The east service reservoir at
PentonviUe, built in hydraulic lime, contains 4 millions of bricks, of which nearly
40,000 were laid in one day ; and the covering of this reservoir cost 21,0002. The
Stoke Newington Works comprise five filter-beds, each exceeding one acre, fed from a
reservoir, which covers nearly 40 acres; and the engine-house contains six steam-
engines — 1000 horses-^which convey the water to service reservoirs, near Highgate^
each of which will contain 7^ million gallons of filtered water. Notwithstanding
this is the oldest metropolitan water supply, it is still called New River. The
Company have removed th&i old aqueducts and reservoirs in different parts of the
metropdis, and have built on the sites they occupied. The well-known canal which
used to supply the real water to Sadler's Wells Theatre has been drained dry, and
filled in, and large iron water-pipes have been placed in its bed. The reservoir in
Coppice-row has also been removed. The name of Myddelton is honoured in Clerkenwell
and Islington : street and square and hall bear his name, as well as Chadwell and
Amwcll ; and of Hylnei the engineer of the Company. Upon Islington-green is a
portrait statue of Sir Hugh Myddelton, presented by Sir Morton Peto, Bart., M.P. ;
it is the work of John Thomas, and is of Sicilian marble, 8 feet 6 inches high, the
figure being in the costume of the period. It is on a pedestal sculptured with dolphins
and nautilns-sheUs, fountains, festoons of shells, water-flowers, &c. ; the group in the
centre of a- basin for water, with a bold ornamental curb, in the Italian style.
The marketable vakie of the Company's shsreB has varied considerably at difTerent periods. In 1727,
a King's share was valued at fiOOO guineas ; in 1766, the clear annual value of a King's share was 154/. =
in August 1770, a similar share, said to yield 2402. per aimum, was advertised tor sale, and fetdiM
70002.; in 1806, one was sold at the Senegal Coflfee House for 44002. ; at Garraway's, iu 1813, an adven-
turer's share produced 80002., and in 1814^ 74602. ; in Ai^rust, 1^2, a moiety of one of the same ahans
aold for 47262. In 1838, an original share sold for 18,000 guineas ; in 1837. two quarter shares were acdd
at the rate of 18,9002. per share : and in the beginning of 1839, two whole shares were sold, one for
17,0002., the other for 17,6002. On Jan. 28, 1852, three-sevenths of a quarter of a Shag's share sold for
16002., the dividend on this portion producing 902. per annum. The vaJue of a share at the present time*
Is about 20^0002. Sir Henry Ncvill, Knt., who was one of the original adventurers with Myddelton,
mentioned among the grantees of the Company's Charter, June 21. 1019, and who died in 162^ poa-
sessed two parts in thirty-six parts of the water-course and New River running from Chadwell and
Amwell, then valued at 182. Ot. id. per annum. The annual rental of the Company in 1 861 was 135,7942^
and it is now 204,7602. About 112.000 houses are now supplied with water by the New River. The
daily supply is 26 millions of gallons. The Company have nearly 600 miles of pipes, Ac, valued at
about 000,0002.
NBW'JBiOAD.
THE New-road was formed by Act of Parliament of the 29th of Geo. II., in the
year 1756, but not without much petty opposition thereto from the landholders
whose property lay in the line of the proposed new route to the west-end. Horace
Walpole notices, in one of his letters, the objection of the Duke of Bedford to it on
account of the ** dust it would make in the rear of Bedford-house ;" and adds, that " the
duke is too short-sighted to see the prospect." A complaint was made by one of the
Duke's tenants, who held from him a large cow-farm in the intended route, at a rental
of Zl, an acre, " that the dust and the number of people must entirely spoil her fields,
and make them no better than common-laud ; she intreats his Grace to prevent such
an evil, as it would be impossible for her to hold his estate without a large abatement
of rent."
On such frivolous opposition the Puhlio Advertizer, of Feb. 20, 1756, remarks that
** all objections to new roads, which arise merely from partial and separate interests,
that happen in this respect to be opposite to the interests of the public, should have no
NEW-BOAB. 613
weight." The joumalkt then prooeecb to notice the advantages to the public in general
of the proposed tborooghfare. " How mnch the communication with almost every
part of the metropolis will be facilitated. Drovers from the west will pass from the
extremity of the city to the centre in one continued straight line. Persons that have
business in other parts may reach them by cross-roads communicating with the main
line ; and persons of fiishion, who live in the great squares and buildings about Oxfbrd-
road, may come into the city without being jolted three miles over the stones, or
perhaps detained three hours by a stop in a narrow street. It must also be remem-
bered that those who shall find it necessary to pass through the stfeets will pass much
more commodiously, as the number of carriages will be lessened and the pavement
preserved."
In the preamble of the Act of 29th Qeo. II., it is stated, "that in times of threatened
invasion, the New Boad will form a complete line of circumvallation, and his Majesty's
forces may easily and expe^tionsly march their way into Essex to defend our coasts*
w^ithout passing through the cities of London and Westminster."
When this great trunk-line of road was in course of construction, the progress made
upon it was from time to time noticed in the public journals. Thus, under date May 8,
1756, we are apprised of its early commencement by being informed that on the
IrVednesday following, the trustees would meet, and that on the next day the men were
to work upon it. At this period the expense of making the road was computed at
8000^. After the lapse of a few months, during the interval of which the road-makers
must have worked industriously, the following appeared in print on the 13th of
September, 1756 : — ** It is with pleasure we assure the public that great numbers of
ooachcs, carriages, and horsemen daily pass over the New-road, from Islington to Battle-
bridge." Five days later, September 17th, we are informed that the banks and fences
of the land between Paddington and Islington were levelled, and the New Boad across
the fields opened to the public. In the December of 1756, the expensiveness of the
road was adverted to, and 100,000 cart-loads of gravel estimated to be required for its
completion.
Within half a century, Bedford House was levelled to the g^und, and the fields
beyond it are now covered with bouses, enlarging by many thousands the income of the
Bedford fiimily, with a reversionary interest in a city of itself. The New-road is the gpreat
omnibus route from Paddington to the City ; whereas in 1798 only one coach ran from
Paddington to the Bank, and the proprietor was nearly ruined by the speculation !
Sbillibeer, the first omnibus-proprietor, fared no better in 1829.
The pleasant aspect of this gprand thoroughfare during several months of the year,
which the trees and the gardens in front of most of the houses contribute chiefly to
impart, is owing to a clause in the original Act fbr making the road, prohibiting the
erection of any building within 50 feet of it ; whilst at the same time it empowers the
authorities of parishes through which the road passes to pull down any such erection,
and levy the expenses on the offender's goods and chattels. The lapse of a century,
however, seems to have materially modified this penal enactment^ for numerous are the
instances in which the 60-feet plot is built upon.
The New-road is now variously named as follows : — Between the Angel at Islington
and King's-cross, the Fenionville-road j from King's-cross to Osnaburgh-street,
Sutton-road s and from Osnaburgh-street to Edgware-road, the Marylehone'TOcid.
J. T. Smith has left this reminiscence of the New-rood :—
WUflon wss fond of plajiner at skittles, snd flreqoentedthe &rMn lfa»jrab11o-hoase in the New-rotd,
at the end of Norton-street, originally known as "The Farthing Pjre Hoase;" where bits of mutton
were pat into a crust shaped like a pie, and actuallr sold for a nrthing. This house was kept in my
boyish days by a very Ctcetions man named Price, or whom there is a mezzotinto portrait. He was an
excellent salt-box player, and flreauently aooompaaied the &mous Abel when playing on the violoncello.
Wilkes was a frequenter of this house, to procure votes for Middlesex, as It was resorted to by many
opulent freeholders.
In 1856, Harley House, in the New-road, was the residence of the ex-Koyal Family
of Oude, with their retinue, 110 persons. Here were the young Prince, the heir-ap-
parent, and his uncle, brother to the deposed King ; and the Queen Mother, with her
female attendants, some thirty in nnmber.
ei4 CUBI08ITIE8 OF LONDON.
NE WGA TE' STREET,
NAMED from tho City-gate at ita east end, has on the soath side the end of Xetr-
g^to Prison* and extends eastward to Cheapside, with knesand ooorcs on the south
leading to Paternoster-row. On the north side is the front of the great hall of Christ's
Hospital, hnilt npon the site of Qrey Friars' monastery; the prindpal gates have cha-
racteristic casts and sculpture. Nearly opposite is Warwick-lane, with a has-relief of
Gay Earl of Warwick, dated 1668. In the Lane was the old College of Phyndana,
taken down in 1866. Here are the old inns, the Bell and Oxford Arms. Next is
Ivy-lane, ** so called of ivy growing on the walls of the Prehend-honse." (StowJ)
Br. Johnson, in 1748, with Hawkesworth and Hawldns, formed a Clnh for literaiy
discnssion. Here also have lived pnblishers for two centories.
'* I wu at BayBton'i shop, la Mb Lane, Febr. the 8, 1661. Hee printed the Marquis of Wincliestw's
conference with the King; nee printed moet of the Royalists' Works, as Uamonds', Tajkn^ji pieoea, axid
othert."— Difuy iiftJu Sm>, John Ward,
On tho north side, up a passage, is Christ Church, described at p. 157. Next is
KtTtg Edward-ttreet, so named in 1843 ; formerly Blowbladder-street, Bntcher-hall-
lane. Chick-lane, and Stinking-lane. Above Boll-head-conrt is a stone has-relief cf
William Evans, 7 feet 6 in<^es high, porter to Charles I. i and Jeffrey Hudson, the
King's Dwarf, 3 feet 9 inches high. Sath-street, first Pincock or Pentecost-lane, snd
next Bagnio-court, was named fix>m there being here the first bagnio in town, after the
Turkish manner. (See Baths, p. 88.)
In Newgate-street, nearly opposite, is JPanyer'Olley, where is the sculptured stone
described at p. 516 : it is stated by Stow to have been a sign. In Ben Jooson'a
Sariholomew Fair we read of the stinking tripe of Panyer-alley. In Queen's Headr-
passage is a Queen Anne tavern, now Dolly's Chop-house : Gainsborough is said to
have painted Dolly. The Passage is named from the Queen's Kead Tavern, which
occupied the site of the premises of Alderman Sir B. S. Phillips* Lord Mayor, 1865-6.
mSWINQTON, OR NEWINOTON BUTTS,
A LARGE parish in Surrey, adjcnning St. Grcorge, Southwark, north and east;
Camberwell, south ; and Lambeth, west. In Domesday Book (llth century), the
only inhabited part of this parish was Walworth, where, according to the Norman
mrvey, was a church, upon the rebuilding of which on a new ate it probably became
" surrounded with houses, which obtained the name of NeweUm, as it is called in the
roost andent records ; it was afterwards spelt Newenton and Newing^ton." (Lysons'a
Environs, vol. L p. 889.) Here were hvits for archery practice : the earliest record of
Newington Butts is in the reg^ter of Archbishop Pole at Lambeth, date 1558. In the
reign of Henry VIIL (1546), three men were condemned as Anabaptists, and '* brent
in the highway beyond Southwark, towards Newenton." (Stow^s Chronicle, p. 964v)
The only manor in the parish is Walworth, given by King Edmund Ironsde to Hitard,
his jester, who^ in the reign of Edward the Confessor, gave the vill of Walworth to
the monks of Christ Church at Canterbury. They received from Edward II. a giaitt
of free-warren here ; and in the reign of Edward III. and lUchard II., and subse-
quently, the manor is said to have been held by persons of a family named from thig
place : thus, Margaret de Walworth, lady of the manor in 1396, was the widow of the
famous Sir William Walworth ; and at Walworth is a modem sign of his killing Wat
Tyler in Smithfield. In the museum of the Society of Antiquaries is a dagger which
was found on the supposed mte of Sir William's house at Walworth. (See Fish-
MONOEBs' Hall, p. 401.) Sir George Walworth died seized of the manor in 1474b
In the valuation of Church property, 26 Henry VIII., it is rated at 37/. 8s. In the
r^gn of Henry III., the queen's goldsmith held of the king, in capite, one acre of
land in Neweton, by the service of rendering one gallon of honey. The old church
(St. Mary's) is described at p. 187. There are district churdies and various sectarian
chapels. South of Newington Causeway (the first road across the swampy fields) is
Horsemonger-lane, opposite which was formerly a hay-market. In the lane are the
County Gaol and Surrey Sessions-house, built upon the site of a market-garden, three
and a half acre^ by Geoige Gwilt, 1798-9. At Walworth, upon a demesne onoe^
NEWSPAPERS. 615
attached to the munor-hcwue, were the Surrey Zoological Gardens, whither Cross re*
moTud his menagerie from tiie King's Mews in 1S31; and where, in 1866, was
hnilt a large Mnsio Hall, descrihed at p. 609, suhsequently oocnpied as St. Thomas's
Hospital. In Walworth-road is a handsome Vestry-hall, Lombardic in style, red brick,
with dressings of Portland stdne, and shafts of polished red granite.
Maltlmd notes t west of the Fiibmongen* Almthoiues (»»• p. 8) '*ii a moorkb jrroand, with a
small waterooune denomixisted the river Tygriu, which is part of Cnnf i trench ; the oatflox of which is
on the east side of Botherhithe perish, where the Great Wet Dock is sltoate." In 1823, wlien the road
between the almahoniee and Newington Chorch was dug up for a new sewer, some piles and posts were
discoTsred, with rinn ibr mooring barges; also a pot of cdns of Charles II. and William III. A
parishioner named Fame, who died, aged 100 jears, early in the present centary, remembered when
boats came np this "river" as Ihr as the choroh at Newington. (BrajI^sAiiT«y,ToLiii.p.406.) The
old .fiZe/»*aii< and GBS<2e is noticed at p. 46a.
NEWINGTON, OR STOKE NEWINGTON,
Fr Domesday, Kewtone, and Stoke Neweton as early as 1391, is named fVom th«
Saxon ttoo, wood, it having been part of the ancient forest of Middlesex ; and in
1649 here were upwards of 77 acres of woodland in demesne. It is separated from
Hackney and Ossulston by the great road, andently the Ermea-street. Tradesmen's
tokens were issued from here in the l7th century : one exists with *' Laurence Short,
Adam and Eve" (in the field between Islington church and the City-road); and
another, " John Ball, at the Boarded House, neere Newington Greene," who kept a
low house for bull-baiting, duck-hunting, &c. at Ball's Pond, long idnce filled up, but it
g^vcs name to a little hamlet. At Stoke Newington Daniel Defoe (whence Defo€»
road) and Thomas Day (Sandford and Merton) were educated; John Howard
the philanthropist lodged here, and married his landlady; Hannah Snell, tho
soldier, lived in Church-street; here died Mrs. Barbauld, in 1825, in her 82nc(
year. The mansion of Sir Thomas Abuey, where Dr. Watts resided with his pious
friend, existed until 1844, when the fine g^unds were converted into the Abney P;irk
Cemetciy. Mrs. Abney, the daughter c^ Sir Thomas, ordered by her will that this
estate should be sold, and the produce distributed in charitable donations, which was
accordingly done : it amounted to many thousand pounds.
NNcinffiau Green, in the parishes of Stoke Newington and Islington, had, within the
present century, several andent houses, one of which, on the south nde, was tra-
ditionally a palace of Henry V III. ; and a path leading from the Qreen to Ball's Pond
turnpike has been, time out of mind, called King Henry's Walk : the house was, how-
ever, evidently built in the reign of James I. At the north-west comer of the Oreon
was " Bishop's Place," where Henry Algernon, Earl PeiH^, is s.iid to have written
his memorable letter disclaiming matrimonial contract with Queen Anne Boleyn, dated
'<at Newington Greene," the 13th of May, 28th Henry VIII. Thomas Sutton,
founder of the Charterhouse, was once an occupant of the Manor House ; one of itn
ancient hostelries, the Three Crowns, was the place of refreshment for Jmnies VI. of
Scotland when he was met on Stamford-hill by the Lord Mayor, on his way from Holy*
rood to London ; and the Earls of Bath and Oxford had mansions here. Here lived
several of the ejected ministers, towards the close of the I7th century : Colonel Popham
and Charles Fleetwood, two of Cromwell's best men; and many of the heroes of the
Hevolutkm of 1688 found shelter here. Adjoining Bishop's Ilaoe was a porch-house,
wherein was bom, in 1762, Samuel Rogers, the poet.
Stoke Newington is one of the few mral villages in the immediate environs.
Though, as the crow ffies, but three miles from the General Post Office, it is still rich in
parks, and gardens, and old trees. Here is a cedar which dates fr^m tho first intro-
duction of this noble tree into England ; mulberry, oak, walnut, and elm trees abound ;
gardens where horticulture is practised according to the latest lights ; and here was
established the first Chrysanthemum Society.
NEWSPAPERS.
THE earliest printed London newspapers are preserved in tho British Museum, and
described at p. 586. 2*^49 Newa of the Present Week, edited by Nathaniel Butler,
was ridiculed in Ben Jonson's Staple qfNetoe, 1625; and a few months after, in Fletcher's
616 CUBI08ITIE8 OF LONDON.
Fair Maid of ihs Inn : it was sold "at the Exchange, uid in Pope's-bead PaBaoe.'*
In 1696 there were nine newspapers published in London, all weekly. In 1709 the
newspapers had increased to eighteen : in this year appeared the Daily Cowmnt^ the
first morning paper ; and to the reign of Qaeen Anne the first publication of " reg^nlar
newspapers " must be referred. In 1724 there were three daily, six weekly, aeren
three times a week, three halfpenny posts, and the London Gateite twice a week; in
1792, thirteen daily, and 20 semi-weekly and weekly papers.
The Fnglith Chronicle, or WhiUhaU Evening Post, was started 174,7^ the
Fublie Ledger was oommenoed Jan. 12, 1760, by Newbery, the bookseller, and in it
appeared Goldsmith's Citizen of the World; the St. James's Chroniele, 1761 ; aud the
Morning Chroniele, 1769.
The Momifig Chronicle was conducted by William Woodiall till 1789, when he was sue*
oeeded by James Perry, who introduced the present system of reporting the debates in
Fsrliament. Mr. (Seijeant) Spankie was bng editor of the Chronicle; Lord Campbell com-
menced on it his London career, and was its theatrical critic in 1810. Coleridge and
Campbell were contributors. Sheridan names the Chronicle in his Criiie : Canning in
a poem ; Byron addressed to it a familiar letter : Hazlitt was its theatrical critic ;
and here first appeared Sketches hg Boz (Charles Dickens). After Perry's death
(1821), the Chronicle was purchased for 42,00OZ. by Mr. Clement, who, in 1834^ sold
it to Sir John Easthope, Bart., who was connected with it until 1847. The ChronUcU
was discontinued March 20, 1862. Until 1822, it was printed at 143, Strand: and in the
same office was subsequently printed, by John Limbird, the Mirror, the first of the
cheap illustrated perio^cals.
The Morning Post, established in 1772, circulated in 1 795 only 350 a-day . Coleridge, in
his Table- Talk, states that he raised the sale in one year tc 7000 ; in 1803 it was 4500:
" Coleridge, long before his flighty pea
Let to the Morning PoH ite oristocnioy."— Byron's Don Juan.
Sir 'James Mackintosh and Charles Lamb were also contributors; and Mackworth
Praed, the poet, was some time editor.
The Morning Herald was commenced November 1, 1780, by Mr. Batc^ afterwards
Sir Henry Bate Dudley, who seceded from the Morning Post.
The Times was commenced by John Walter, in Printing-house-square, Blackfriara^
previously the site of the King's Printing-House.f The first mmiber, January 1,
1788 (that in the British Museum has no stamp), was a continuation of the Daily
Universal Register, No. 939, which, with the Times, was " printed logographically/'
s. e. with stereotyped words and metal letters. In 1803, the late John Walter, son
of tlie above, became jinnt-proprietor and exclusive manager of the Times, whence by
priority of its intelligence, it has risen to be the " leading journal of £urope." The
ISmes of November 29, 1814^ was the first newspaper printed by steam, from two
machines made by Kcenig, which produced 1800 per hour, until 1827, when they were
superseded by AppUgath and Cowper's four-cylindered machine, yielding 5000 im*
pressions per hour; and in 1848 was erected Applegath's vertical macliine,
producing 8000 copies in an hour. Mr. Walter died in Printing-house-square in 1847,
bequeathing a large personal estate, and having erected and endowed a handsome
church at Bearwood, Berks. He devised his interest in the Times to his son, John
Walter, M.P. for Nottingham, the present proprietor ; the journal being thus still in the
hands of the fiimily of its founder, and in this respect standing alone amongst the
morning papers. (Runt's Fourth Sstate, vol. ii. p. 153.) Amongst the many valuable
services rendered by the Times to the commerdal world, was the detection and ex-
posure of the Bogle conspiracy in 1841 ; in indemnification of which, 2625^ — the Times
Testimonial — was subscribed by the London merchants aud bankers, but was declined ;
and the amount was invested in scholarships at Christ's Hospital and the City of
London School, where and in the Boyal Exchange are commemorative tablets, as also
upon the fa9ade of the Times Office.
The Times Printing Machinery may be inspected by previously obtaining cards, st
* There had previoosly been a Zondon CkronioU, which wss regularly read by George tll.» whose
copy of it may be seen in the British Moseam. — Hanf s JFbwrtt Ettaief vol. fi. p. 99.
T Beneath the Timet Office is a flragment of the Roman wall, npon which is a Norman or Early Eng*
llsh reparation ; and npon that are the remains of a passage and window, which probably belonged to
the Blackfriars vaonaMierj.—iraHonalMiteeUQng, October, 1863.
NEWSPAPERS. 617
Jl A.tf., when the second edition of the paper is heing printed. We can only describe
generally this g^eat improvement in newspaper printing — a machine in which the type
is placed on the surface of a cylinder of large dimensions, which revolves on a vertical
axis, with a continuous rotary motion. The cylinder is a drum of cast iron ; the form,
or pages of type, are made segpnents of its surface, just as a tower of brick might be
faced with stone. Eight printing cylinders are arranged round the drum, and eight
sheets are printed in every revolution. The type only covers a small portion of the
circumference of the drum, and in the interval Uiere is a large inking table, fixed hke
the type on its drcular &ce. This table communicates the ink to eight upright inking
rollers, placed between the several printing cylinders — ^the rollers, in their turn, oom-
nunicating the ink to the type. So &r the arrangement is perfectly simple, the
machine being, in fact, composed of the parts in ordinary use, only made circular and
placed in a vertical instead of a horizontal position. The g^reat problem of the inveritor
was the right mode of " feeding," or supplying the sheets of paper to their printing
cylinders in thar new podtion— or changing the sheet of paper (the IHmes newspaper)
in less than fonr seconds, from a horizontal to a vertical position and back again ; and
through still more changes of direction ; which is done by passing through endless
tapes and vertical rollers in rajftd motion, which convey it round the printing cylinders,
each of which always touches the type at the same corresponding point, the surfiices
moving with a great velodty. The Times machines are also well described in Weale's
London, p. 76.
"No description," says Hansard {Ency, Brit., 8th edit.), " can give any adequate
idea of the scene presented by one of these machines in full work, — the maze of wheels
and rollers, the intricate lines of swift-moving tapes, the flight of sheets, and the din of
machinery. The central drum moves at the rate of six feet per second, or one revolu-
tion in three seconds ; the impression cylinder makes five revolutions in the same time.
The layer-on delivers two sheets every five seconds, consequently fifteen sheets are
printed in that brief space. The Time* employs two of these eight-cylinder machines,
sach of which averages 12,000 impressions per hour ; and one nine-cylinder, which
prints 16,000." Also, Hoe's American machine, with ten horizontal cylinders, for
working 20,000 impressions in an hour.
The Times has nearly qnadrapled its circulation since 1838. Its daily number in
L853 was between 42 and 43,000. The Paper and Supplement, 72 columns, is made
ip of more than a million of pieces of type. In 1846, the profit on each paper was
»t«ted to be three-eighths of a penny, out of which were to be defrayed all the expenses
>f the journal, except paper and stamp. The annual amount of stamp duty was 60,000/.
\.mong the largest issues of the Times were, Oct. 29, 1844 (opening of the New Boyal
Sxchange), 50,000. Jan. 28, 1846, (Sir B. Peel's speech on the Com Laws and the
farifif), 62,000, when the usual number was between 27 and 28^000. March 1, 1848
French Revolution), 48,000. April 11, 1848 (Chartist Meeting), 46,000. May 2, 1851
opening of the Great Exhibition), 55,000. Sept. 15 and 16, 1852 (Death of the Duke
if Wellington), 2 days, each 58,000. Nov. 19, 1852 (Funeral of the Duke), 70,000.
rbe advertisements during Jnne 1858 averaged 1600 each day ; and in one day in
Tune there were 2260 inserted ! then the greatest number that had ever appeared in
me paper. It has been stated, that in printing one of the above large issues were
ised 7 tons of paper; surface printed, 80 acres ; weight of type, 7 tons.
Among the literary eoUaboratewrs of the Times, the names of Barnes^ Sterling, and
?wiss are prominent. Mr. Justice Talfourd and Baron Alderson were once upon its
taff ; as were abo Mr. Gilbert ^ Beckett, and Mr. Thackeray. The editorship was
ifered to Southey, with a salary of 2000/. per annum, but was dedined; and a similar
fifer was made to the poet Moore, with a like resnlt.
The Morning Advertiser was established in 1795, as the organ of the interests and
harities of Licensed Victuallers.
The Daily News dates from 1846.
The Star, the first daily evening newspaper, established in 1788 by Peter Staart^
ros long conducted by Dr. Tilloch, editor of the PkUosophioal Magazine.
Johnson's Sunday Monitor, the first newspaper published on the Sabbath, appeared
1 1778. The oldest weekly newspaper is the Observer, established 1792. JBelPs
VeeJcly Messenger dates from 1796.
618 cuBiosirms of lonbon.
7}he Hhuirated London News, prqjeeted by Herbert Ingram, and commenced by
him May 14, 1842, enjoys the largest sale of the high-prioed weekly papers. In ISof
there were sold 280,000, doable number (Foneral of the Dake of Wellington). Tts
issues have nnce &r exceeded this number— as at Christmas, doable sheet. Thesai
throoghoat the Crimean war approached 200,000 eadi week.
The CUy JPtmb is entitled to commendable mention here for its special attentioQ ta
London anUquities, as well as its weekly chronicle of current events.
After the remission of the stamp duty, the number of daily newspapers con&denblj
incMased, so that there are now published in the metropo^ 25 daily papers.
On MoDdsy, March 9, 1863 (Marriage of the Prince of Wales and the Prinoess Alexaadn ofDia-
mark), the drcolation of the Thtm wae 18S.000; of theie three p^wra, at one penny, DaOg TeUgrsfi,
980,000; Mormma Star and SiaMdard between 80.000 and 100,000 each. The day of the Weddiog ^
Tuesday, the 10th, and on Wedneeday, the llth. the drcaUtion was mutained and increased. ik
JlUuiraUd London Ktme otderB were Ibr 81&000, Dot only 200.000 ooold be execated. The valae ofm
Tim$^ edition amonnte to 1687i. 10». : the Dailf TtUorapk to 9682. 8«. Sd. ; the IlbutraM h^»
iftfvff, atlOif^ to8333^ 6t. %d. The dai^ oiroalatfonof the 2>d^ T^^iynqnk in ISM was 13^704
OLD BAILET.
THE street extending from Ludgate-hill to Newgate-street ; <* outside of Lndg&t£,
parallel with the walls as far as Newgate." Hence the name— from the hdli^
ot outer space, near Ludgate,* its relatire position in regard to the ancient wall d^
City ; the remains of which might be traced in some massive stone- work in Seacoal-
lane, at the bottom of Breakneck-steps, west of the Old Bailey ; and opposite -a
entrance ftom Ladgate-hill, in St. Martin's-court. {See p. 539.) Maitlaud, hov*
ever, refers Old Bailey to Bail-hill ; an eminence whereon was situated the hml, (?
bailifTs house, wherein he held a court for the trial of malefactors : and the place ot
security where the Sheriff keeps the prisoners during the session is still named tbe
Bcal-docJe^ Stow states the Chamberhun of London to have kept his court here i>
the reign of Edward III. In Pennant's time, here stood Sydney House (then oocnpied
by a coachmaker), the mansion of the Sydneys till they removed to Leice3ter-fi^<^
{tee p. 511). The Old Bailey Sessions-house is described at pp. 506-507.
** Bt a sort of second-eight, the Surgeons' Theatre was built near thU court of conTiction and K<«-
eate, the concluding itage of the lives forfeited to the jusUoe of their country, eeveral yean before t&.
latal tree was removed from l^rbum to its present site. It is a handsome building; ornameDt«a jru
Ionic pilasters, and with a double flight of steps to the first floor. Beneath is a door for tiie sdnusf^aB
of the oodles of murderers and other felons, who, noxious in their lives, make a sort of repanuaaw
their fellow-createres by beeomlng usefhl after death."-— PmhohI.
After the execution of Lord Ferrers, at Tyburn, in 1760, the body was convered
in his own landau and six to Surgeons' Hall, to undergo the remaindor of tbesenteoce
A large incision having been made from tiie neck to the bottom of the breast, am
another across the throat, the lower part of the belly was laid open, and the boveJs
were taken away. The body was afterwards publicly exposed to view in a first-tkx^
room ; and a print of the time shows the corpse " as it lay in the Surgeons' Hall.
Here sat the Court of Examiners, by whom Oliver Goldsmith was rejected 21st De-
cember, 1758 ; and in the books of the College of Surgeons, amidst a k>ng list of can-
didates who passed, occur : " Jomef Bernard, mate to an hatpUal, OUcer Mdiaiih
found not qualified for ditto" **A rumour of this rejection long existed; and oQ ||
hint from Maton, the king's physician, Mr. Pryor succeeded in discovering ^^•
(Forster's Life and Adoenturet of Oliver Qoldemith, p. 140.) Surgeons' Hall ««
taken down in 1809, and upon its site was built the New Seasions-house ; w1ieD<«
the prison of Newgate extends on the east side of the street, widened at the north ea
by the removal of the houses of the Little Old Bailey. Here the plaoe of execatioo was
changed from Tyburn in 1788, and the first culprit executed Dec. 9. The gallows v^
built with three cross-beams, for as many rows of sufibrers ; and between FebrflS')''^"
December, 1785, ninety-six persons suffered by "the new drop," substituted for the cart.
About 1786, here was the last execution followed by burning the body; when awom^
was hung upon a low gibbet, and life being extinct, fagots were heaped around her an
over her head, fire was set to the pile, and the corpse burnt to ashes. On one occasion
the old mode of execution was renewed : a triangular gallows was set up in the fw
opposite Oreen Arbour-court, and the cart was drawn fi^m under the criminals' '^^
• The charch of St. Peter in the Bailer, at Oxford, derives its appellaUon from haring fi>r°^^^
stood within the oater ballium of Oxford Castle.
OLD JEWRY. ei9
HemorohU JExeeutiont in the Old SaUep.^Un, Phepoe, nrardercM, Dec. 11, 17W. Governor Wall,
narder. Jan. 28. 1802. HoUoway and Haggerty, mnrder, Feb. 22, 1807 (80 speotators trodden to death),
iellin^ham, asaassin of Mr. Perceval, May 18, 1812. Eliza Penning, poisoning, Jnly 26, 1815. Arthur
rhlHtlewood and four others (Cato-street gang), murder and treason, M«y 1, 1820 (their bodies were
IccapiUted bv a surgeon on the scaifold). Fauntleroy, the banker, forgery. Nov. 30, 1824. Joseph
lunton (Quaker), forgery. Dec. 8, 1828. Bishop and Williams, murder (bnrkers), Dec 6, 1831. John
'egM worth, murder, March 7, 1897. James Ghreenacre, murder. May 2, 1837. Courvoiner, murder of
.ord William Bnssell, July 6, 184a Francis Mikller, murder in a railway carriage, 1864. Seven pirate*
or murder on the high seas, Feb. 23, 1864.
It was formerhr the usaceto execute the criminal near the scene of his guilt. Those who were punished
apitally for the tfiots of 1780 sufi'ered in those parts of the town in which their crimes were committed ;
iid in 1700 two incendiaries were hanged in Alaersgate-stree^ at the eastern end of Long-lane, opposite
he site of the bouse thej had set fire to. Since Uut period tnere have been few executions In London,
xcept in flront of Newgate. The last deviation from the regular oourse was in the case of the sailor
^ashman, who was hung, in 1817, in Skinner-street^ oi»poiite the shop of Mr. Beckwith, the gunsmith,
rhich he had plundered.
In Green Arbonr-court* No. 12, at the corner of Breakneck-atepe* in Seaooal-lane.
eading from Farringdon-street, lodged Oliver Goldsmith from 1758 to 1760, when he
vrote for the MoidUy Beview ; and the editor, Griffiths, became secarity for the suit of
slothes in which Goldsmith offered himself for examination at Smrgeons' HalL In this
Diserable lodging he was writing his Folite Learning Enquiry, when Dr. Percy called
ipon him, and the fellow-lodger's poor ragged girl came to borrow "a chamberpotM
»f coals/' The hoose was taken down thirty years since.
Peter Bales, the celebrated penman, in Qneen Elizabeth's reign» kept a vmting-
chool, in 1590, at the npper end of the Old Bailey, and publishMl here his Writing
^choolmatter : in a writing trial he won a golden pen, value 201, ; and the '* anns of
aligraphy, viz. azure, a pen or, were given to Bales as a prize." (Sir George Buck,)
?rynne*s EMtriomaetix was printed " for Michael Sparke, and sold at the Blue Bible,
n Little Old Bayly, 1633."
William Camden, " the nourrice of antiquitie," was bom in the Old Bailey, where
lis father was a paiuter-stainer. In Ship-court, on the west ude, was bom William
logarth, the painter; and at the comer of Ship-court, No. 67, three doors from
!iudgate-hill, William Hone kept a little shop, where he published his noted Parodies
Q 1817, for which he was three times tried and acquitted. Next door, at No. 68^
ived the infiimous Jonathan Wild.
OLD JEWRY.
A STBEET leading from the Poultry to Cateaton-street; and "so called of Jewa
^ some time dwelling there and near adjoining^' (Siow), first brought here by William
!)nke of Normandy. They had here» at the north-west comer, a synagogue, suppressed
D 1291 ; it was next the church of the Friars of the Sack : here Robert Larg^ kept his
mayoralty in 1489; Hugh Clapton in 1492; and in Stow^s time it was the Windmill
tavern, mentioned in Ben Jonson's Everg Man in his Humour : its site is denoted by
Vindmill-court. " In the reign of Henry YL, at the north end was one of the king^s
olaces" (Baiton) ; in the reign of Richard III. it was called the Prince's Wardrobe ;
nd in 1546, Edward VI,, it was sold to Sir Anthony Cope. On the west side,
bout 40 yards from Cheapsidp, wai» built in 1670 the Mercers' Chapel Grammar School,
emoved in 1787, when Old Jewry was widened.
In a courtyard here was the stately mansion built by Sir Robert Clayton for keeping
\a shrievalty in 1671-2. It was nobly placed upon a stone balustraded terrace, in a
ourtyard, and was of fine red brick, richly ornamented. John Evelyn, who was a guest
f a great feast here, describes, in his Diary, Sept. 26, 1672, the mansion as " buUt
ndcede for a greate magintrate at excessive cost. The cedar dining-room is painted
rith the history of the Gyants' War, incomparably done by Mr. Streeter ; but the
gures are too near the eye." Mr. Bray, the editor of the Diary, adds (1818), " these
aintings have long since been removed to the seat of the Clayton family, at Marden
*ark, near Godstone, in Surrey ;" in the possession of the present baronet. In 1679-80
Charles II. and the Duke of York supped at the mansion in the Old Jewry, with Sir
tobert Clayton, then Lord Mayor. The balconies of the houses in the streets were
ilumlnated with flambeaux ; and the King and the Duke had a passage made for them
>y the Trained Bands upon the guard from Cheapside. Sir Robert represented the
620 CURIOSITIES OF LONDON,
J
metropolis nearly thirty years in Parliament, and was Father of the City at hia deoets:
His son was created a baronet in 1731-2. Sir James Thomhill painted the staircase a
the Old Jewry mansion with the story of Hercules and Omphale, besides a copy of tjn
" Rape of Deianira," after Qoido. The house had several tenants before it waa ooenpia: ^
by Samuel Sharp, the celebrated surgeon. In 1806 it was opened aa the tempoRTi
home of the London Institution, with a library of 10,000 volumes. Here» in the roos
he occupied as libmrian of the Institution, died Professor Porson, on the m^ '
Sunday, Sept. 25, 1806, " with a deep groan, exactly as the dock atrock twelve." l>
Adam Clarke has left a most interesting account of his vints to Poraon here. Tit
Institution removed from the house in 1810, and it was next occupied aa the Musec:
of the London Missionary Society, and subsequently divided into offioea. The lai
Mayor's Court was latterly held here. The mansion was taken down in the antns
of 1863. Although it had been built scarcely two centuries, this manmon was a tot
handsome spedmen of the palace of a merchant-piince, carrying us back to the sob>
tuous dvic life of the seventeenth and eighteenth centuries, when our rich citizens liTsd
in splendour upon the sites whereon they had accumulated thdr well>eamed wealtk
In Ben Jonson's Sotfy 2£an in kit Sumiour, Master Stephen dwells at Hogsden, the dwdlen ' i
which have a long^ suburb to pass before they reach London. ** I am sent for this moroin^ hj a fnco. |
in the Old Jewry to come to nim : it is bat crossing over the fields to Moorgate." In the Old Jcvt?
dwelt (.'ob the waterman, by the wall at the bottom of Coloman-street, " at the aign of the Wmtm- J» I
hard, hard by the Ortn Xattietf."— €. Knight's London, voL i. p. 368.
OLD STREET,
OR Eald^reet, is part of a Roman military way, which anciently led irom the
to the western parts of the kingdom. Old-street extends from opposite tht
north-eastern corner of Charter-house garden to St. Luke's Church {tee p. 176) ; wheoe :
to Shoreditch Church {tee p. 173) the continuation is OH^reet-road, where are S:
Luke's {tee p. 438) and the London Lying-in HospitaU. St. Leonard's, SboreditcL
was anciently a village upon the Eald-street, at some distance north of London ; Hoi-
ton, or Hocheston, was originally a small village, and had a market ; and the manor
Finsbury, in the reign of Henry VIII., consisted chiefly of fields, orcharda, and gar-
dens. Old-street was also famous for its nursery-grounds ; and here were several aIIL^-
houses, mostly built when this suburb was open, healthful g^round. Peti-homte-lsv
(now Bath-street) was named from a pest-house established here during the Qreat PUgR«
of 1665, and removed in 1737. In Brick-lane is one of the three earliest stations es-
tabliKhed by the first Qas Light Company in the metropolis, incorporated in 1812.
Picthatek, a profligate resort, named in the plays oiP Shakspeare, Ben Jonson, and
Hiddleton, was supposed to have been in Tummill-street, Clerkenwell, nnUl Mr. Cun-
ningham identified Picthatch with " Pickaxe-yard," in Old-street, near the Charter
house. (See Handbook, 2nd edit. p. 400.)
At the comer of Old-street-road, in the City-road, ore Ylnegar-works, formerly the uiopei ti of Xr.
James Calvert, who won the first 20,000^. prixe ever drawn in an English lotteiy, and in a saSseqiKSt
lottery gained fiOOCM.; yet he died in extreme poverty, Feh. 26, 1799.
OMNIBUS, THE,
A HACKNEY carriage for 12 or more passeng^ers inside^ is stated to have heen tried
about the year 1800, with four horses and six wheels, but nnsucceaafnlly. We re-
member a long-bodied East Qrinstead coach in 1808 ; and a like conveyance between
Hemel Hempstead, Herts, and the metropolis. The Greenwich stages were mostly of
this build; and a character in the farce of Too Late for Dinner, produced in 1820.
talks of " the great green Greenwich coach," the omnibus of that period. Still, it-
invention is claimed for M. Baudry, of Nantes. It has been extended to all parti
of the world : even in the sandy environs of Cairo you are whisked to your hotel in as
Oriental omnibus.
Mr. ShilUbeer, in his evidence before the Board of Health, states that <m July 4i
1829, he started the first pair of omnibuses in the metropolia — from the Bank to the
Torkthire Stingo, New-road; copied from Fkris, where M. Lafitte^ the banker, had
«..
OXFORD STREET. 621
prevtouslj established omnibiues in 1819. Each of Shilliheer's vehicles carried 22
pa^en^ers inside, bnt only the drirer outside ; and each omnibus was drawn by three
horses abreast; the fare was Is, for the whole joomey, and 6d, tot half the distance;
and for some time the passengers were provided with periodicals to read on the journey.
Shillibeer's first "conductors" were the two sons of British naval officers, who were
succeeded by young men in velvet liveries. The first omnibuses were called
" Shillibeers," and the name is common to this day in New York. Omnibuses
ruined the elder branch of the Bourbons in 1830: the accidental upset of an
omnibus suggested the first idea of a barricade and thus changed the whole sdenoe
of revolutions. Nevertheless, a barricade of vehicles was one of the strategies em-
ployed three eenturies before, in England. There are numerous private speculators in
omnibuses, who, no doubt, convey a large amount of passengers ; but the London
General Omnibus Company alone earns from 10,000^. to 15,000^. a week, and must
employ several thousand servants. In Exhibition weeks, the receipts have reached
17,000^. (Hackket-Coaches ajstd Cabs, see pp. 392-893.)
OJCFORD-STREETt
ORiaiNALLT J^hum^oad, and next Oxford-road (the highway to Oxford), ex.
tends from the site of the village pound of St. Giles's (where High-street and
Tottenham-oourt-road meet), westward to Hyde Park Comer, 1^ mile in length, con-
taining upwards of 400 houses. Hatton, in 1708, described it " between St. Giles's
Pound east^ and the lane leading to the gallows west." It follows the ancient military
road (Fta Trinovantica, Stukeley), which crossed the Watling-street at Hyde Park
Comer, and was continued thence to Old-street (Eald-street), north of London. During
the Civil War, in 1643, a redoubt was erected near St. Giles's Pound, and a large fort
with half bulwarks across the road opposite Wardour-street. In a map of 1707, on the
south side. King-street, Gblden-square, is perfect to Oxford-road, between which and
Berwick-street are fields; hence to St. Giles's is covered with buildings, but westward
not a house is seen ; the north nde contains a few scattered buildings, but no semblance
of streets west of Tottenham*court-road. A plan of 1708 shows, at the south end of
Mill-hill Field, the Lord Mayor's Banqueting-house, at the north-east comer of the
bridge across Tyburn brook, over which is built the west side of Stratford-place. In
the above plan is also shown the Adam and Eve, a detached roadside public-house in
the *< Dung-field," near the present Adam-and-Eve-conrt, almost opposite Poland-
street ; and in an adjoining field is represented the boarded house of Fig^, the prize-
fighter. '* The row of houses on the north side of Tyburn-road was completed in 1729,
and it was then called Oxford-streef (Lysons's Environs) ; a stone upon a house on the
north side is inscribed, " Rathbone-place, Oxford-street, 1718 :" it was built by Captain
Bathbone. In this year were commenced Hanover-square, and ''round about, so many
other edifices, that a whole magnificent city seems to be risen out of the ground, (hi
the opposite ude of the way, towards Marylebone, is marked out a square, and many
streets to form avenues to it." (IFeekly Medley, 1718.) Vere-street Chapel and Oxford
Market were built about 1724; five years later were begun most of the streets leading
to Cavendish-square.
A map of 1742 shows the little church of St. Marylebone, in the fields, with two zigstf ways leading
to it : one near Vere>ttreet, then the western limit of the new baildings ; and the second from Totten-
ham-coart-road. Bows or honsea, with their hacks to the fields, extend from St. Giles's Poond to
Oxford Market : hat Tottenham-coart-road has only one duster on the west side, and the springs water
honse. Thos, Oxford-street, from Oxford Market to Vere-street, south and west, Marrleoone-atreet,
north, and the site of Great Titchfleld-street east, form the limit of the new boUdings : the zigzag way
from vere-street (now Marylebone-lane) leading flrom the high-road to the village.
Pennant (bom in 1726) remembered Oxford-street " a deep hollow road, and full of
sloughs ; with here and there a ragged house, the lurking-pUice of cut- throats :" inso-
ttiuch that he " never was taken that way by night," in a hackney-coach, to his uncle's
hi George-street^ but he ** went in dread the whole way."
Yet this main arterial thoroughfare was called Ojiford'Street in the reign of
(Carles II., as attested in the following passage from the Statute of 1678, enacting the
boundaries of the parish of St. Anne, then just taken out of St. Martin's : —
€22 CURIOSITIES OF LONDON.
The hooiw beginning at the lign of the Onoktd JKtt< near St onee'e Pound, and boimded brfti
way leading from the taid sign to the end of Gock*Une netr Long-acre, with the eonth nde of tin a?e
and all the ground called the Hilitary-groand, and ell the hooaea end groond leading thence to Cr>
boorne-etreet and Little LeioeeCer-street, aUa» Bear-atreet, faicloding Letoeeter-hoase and garden, ati
is abutting upon Leioester-square* with all the houses on the west side of the square tram \Ahce^Jc^
garden wall to the Sun Tavern, ftc., including the wall abutting on the highwaj leading from Piee^SEr
to the west side of the Military'gnHind, and abutting on the highway leading to the fl«d called Kemp V
field, includbig all the fielda to the a(gn of the Bbu Anekor, bemg the corner hoose a* the sooth end d
the east side of Soho-etreet, abutting upon Kemp'e-flelds. with all the easv side of Soho-slreet to ^
sign of the S«d Cow, being the corner hoose at the north end of Soho-street, abutting izpon the Kise't
highway, or Great-road (uat is, what is now called Ozford-atroet), with all the hooaea and gnMac«
abutting on and upon the said road leading from the sign of the B^d Cow to the Oroofead MUUt ; ei
all the nouses, Ac., included in these boundaries were erected into the new pariah of St. Anne.
Cumherland-plaee, hegon about 1774, was named from the hero of Calloden, d
wliom there is a portrait-sign at a pablic-honse in Great Cnmberland-street. No. SS.
Cumberland-Hreet has an elegant portico of tcrra-ootta, designed by A. H. MoracS
for Lord Strangford. At the western extremity of Oxford-street^ in the first bonse ia
Edgware-roed, immediately opponte to Tybom turnpike, lived for many years ^
Corsican General Paoli, who was godfather to the Emperor Napoleon. {Koie9 ad
Queries,) Stratford^lace was built 1787-90, upon the site of Condoit-Mead. At
the north end is Aldb(ttt>ugh House (erected for Edward Stratford, Earl of AldboroaghX
with a handsome Ionic stone front and a Doric colonnade. Here, until 1805, stood a
naval trophied Corinthian column with a statue of George III., set np in 1797 hj
Lieut.-Gen. Strode. No. 815, Oxford-street is the fk^ade of the Laboratories of the
CoLLEGB or Chsmibtbt (tee p. 273). The view through the gate of Hanover-
square, tlie massive church and the lofty and handsome houses, presents a Yery fine
architectural coup-d^oriL
Portland-place was built by the architects Adam, about 1778 : it in 126 feet wi^
and in 18^7 was terminated at the north end by an open railing looking over the
fields towards the New-road; when "the ample width of the foot-pavement^ the purity
of the air, and the prospect of the rich and elevated villages of Hampstead and Higii-
gnte, rendered Portland-place a most agreeable summer promenade.'* (Hoghsoa's
London.) At No. 43, lived Sir Felix Booth, Bart, from M'hom Sir John Ross named
Boothia Felix ; Lord Chief- Justice Denman at No. 38. In Park-crescent lon^ rooded
the Count de Survilliers (Joseph Bonaparte); and in the garden, facing Portland-
place, is a well-modelled bronze statue (height 7 feet 2 inches), by Gahagan, of the
Duke of Kent, father of Queen Victoria.
The Crystal Palace in Hyde Park was nearly the length of Portland-place. **I walked out ogm
avening," says Sir Charlea Fox, "end there eetUng ont the 1848 feet npon thepavement, foand it the
same length within a few vards ; and then conaidBred that the Great ^chibitlon Bnilding woiold be
three times the width of that fine street, and the nsre as high aa the hooaea on either side."
Netoman-etreet and Bemere-etreet, built between 1760 and 1770, were from the
first inhabited by artists of oelebrity. In the former lived Banks and Bacon, the
sculptors ; and West and Stothard, the painters : in the latter, Sur William Chambers,
the architect ; and Fusel! and Opie, the painters. Fadng is the Middlesex Hospital,
described at p. 439. Tlie Pantheon, on the south side of Oxford-street^ was origi-
nally biult by James Wyatt^ in 1768-71 s was burnt down in 1792, but was rebuilt ;
taken down in 1812, and again reconstructed. {See Paktheok.) Neariy opposite is
the Princeet^s Theatre, No. 7S, formerly the Queen's Bazaar, opened in 1840. (See
Thsatses.) Wardour-etreet, built 1686, and named from Lord Arundel of Wardour,
is noted for its curiosity-shops. (See Cabyikg, pp. 78-81.) Hanway^etreet bears a
stone dated 1721, and was originally a zigzag lane to Tott^ham-court-road : it was
called Hanway-yard to our time, and is noted for its china-dealers and eurio^ty-
shops, as it was in the reign of hoops, high-heeled shoes, and stiff brocade. Na
64, comer of Bemers-street, has a EenaUsanee or Elizabethan shop-front and
mezzanine floor ; a picturesque composition of pedestals, consoles, and semi-caryatid
figfures. No. 76 has a Byzantine fa^de. No. 86 has a front of studied design. At
No. 15 was exhibited, in 1830-32, a large painted window of the Tournament of the
Field of Cloth-of-Gold, by Wilmshurst; destroyed by fire in 1832. At the east end of
Oxford-street, in 1838, were laid experimental specimens of the various roadway Wood
P^ivementb.
ITolle]Keas,the sculptor, one day, in a walk with J. T, Smith, stopped at the comer of Bathbooe-
PADDINQTOK. 623
Aace, and obMrred that when he wua little boy, his mother often took htm to the top of that street
o walk by the side of a lonff pond, near a wlndmfll, which then stood on the site of the chapel in Char-
otte-street ; and that a halroomy was paid by every person at a hatch belonging to the miller, for
he privilege of walking in ms grounds. He also told me (oontinaes Smirh), that his mother took him
hrough another halfpenny hat& in the fields, between Oxford-road and Grosvenor-sqoare, the north
tide of which was then bouding. When we got to the brewhoose between Rathbone-place and the end
)f Tottenham-oourt-road, he said he reooUemed thirteen large and fine walnut-trees standing on the
lorth side of the highway, between what was then volgarly called Hanover-yard, afterwards Hanway-
rard, and now Hanway-street^ and the Castle inn, beyond the Star Brewery.— iVbU«*0M and hit
Tim09, i. 87.
Towards the west end of Oxford-street sereral houses of lofty and ornamental design
dave replaced the inoongpmons dwellings which reminded one of Oxford-road. Here
ivas Camellord Honse, sometime inhabited by the Princess Charlotte and her husband.
Prince Leopold.
Nbw Ozpobd-btbxxt, extending the booses iVom 441 to 652, and oocnpying part
of the site of St. Qiles's ** Rookery," was opened in 1847 : the honse-fronts are of
Ionic, Corinthian, domestic Tador, and Lonis XIV. character, including a glass-roofed
Arcade of shops.
JPADDINGTON,
w
NAMED from the Saxon FiBdingoB and /«», the town of the Payings (Eemble's
Saxons in Ungland), was, in the last century, a pleasant little rural village,
scarcely a mile north of Tyburn turnpike, upon the Harrow-road. Paddington is not
mentioned in Domesday Book ; and the charters professedly granting lands here by
Edgar to the monks of Westminster are discredited as forgeries. The district would
rather appear to have been cleared, soon after the Norman Conquest, from the vast
forest of Middlesex (with pasture for the cattle of the villagers, and the fruits of
the wood for their hogs), and to have lain between the two Roman roads (now
the Edgware and Uxbridge roads) and the West bourn, or brook, the ancient
Tyboum. In the first authentic document (81 Hen. II.), Richard and William of
Paddington transfer their ^ tenement " to the Abbot and Convent of Westminster ;
and frt)m the dose of the thirteenth century, the whole of the temporalities of Pad-
dington (rent of land, and young of animals, valued at 8Z. 16«. Ad,), yi&te devoted to
cliarity. Tanner speaks of Paddington as a parish, temp, Richard II. ; and by the
Yalor Eoclesiasticus of Henry VIII., the rectory yielded, like the manor, a separate
revenue to the Abbey. Upon the dissolution of the Bishopric of Westminster, the
manor and rectory were given by Edward VI. to Ridley, Bishop of London, and his
successors for ever ; they were then let at 41L 6«. 8(2., besides 20«. for the frurm of
*« Paddington Wood," 30 acres.
The population of Paddington, by the Subndy Roll of Henry VIII. scarcely exceeded
100 ; in Charles II.'s reign it was about 800 ; in 1811, the population was 4609 ; from
1831 to 1841, it increased 1000 per annum ; from 1841 to 1851, above 2000 annually ;
and in 1861, it had 75,807. Thus, from the forest village has risen a large town,
smd one of Uie three parishes forming the Parliamentary borough of Marylebone,
" A city of pslaoes has ipmng np within twenty years, A road of iron, with steeds of ateam, brinn
into the centre of this city, and taliei fhnn it in one year, a sreater number of living Iwinffi than conld
Y» foond in all England a few years ago ; while the whole or London can be travenied In half the time
it took to reach Holborn Bars at the beginning of thia oentaiy . when the road waa in the handa of Mr.
31 lies, hia pair-horse coach, and hit redoubtable Boy,"* long tne only appointed agcnta of communii-a-
tlon between Paddington and the City. The fares were 2*. and 3«. : the journey took more than three
hours : and to beguile the time at resting places, ** Mtles's Boy " told tales and played upon the fiddle.
A portion of Paddington la called Tjfhurwiai but the distinction has not been so readily adopted aa in
the case of JSelgravia,
In the middle of the last century, nearly the whole of Paddington had become
grazing-land, upwards of 1100 acres ; and this occupiers of the Bishop's Estate kept
here hundreds of cows. At the beginning of the last century, next to the ruraltty of
Paddington, the gallows and the gibbet were its principal attractions. About 1790
were built nearly 100 small wooden cottages, tenanted by a colony of 600 journeyman
artificers; but these dwellings have given way to Connaught-terrace.
torics
* Paddington, Fatt and Present, by William Boblns, 1663; an able eoDtribution to our local his*
624 CUBIOSTTIES OF LONDON.
Paddington oonsistB chiefly of two hills, Maida-hill and Craven-hill ; the nortb-
eaitem slope of Notttng-hill ; and a valley throogh which inns the Tybonm, a feToo-
rite resort of anglers early in the present century, hut now a covered sewer. Fita
this brook, the newly-built district, mostly of palatial mansions, is named Tjfhurma.
FeMington Oreen, now inclosed and iron-bound, was the green of the vilbgen»
shown in all its rural beauty in prints of 1750 and 1783. Upon a portion of it were
built the Almshouses, in 1714; their neat little flower-gardens have disappeared. Sc^u
of the green is the new Vestry -hall. At JhtdUjf Qrcme was modelled and cast, bj
Matthew Cotes Wyatt, the colossal bronxe statue of the Duke of Wellingtob, dct
upon the Oreen Park Arch : it is thirty feet high, and was conveyed from the fonndn.
upon a car, drawn by 29 horses, Sept. 29, 1846, to Hyde Piark Comer.
Wetthmme Oreen has been cut up by the Great Western Railway; and Wesip
bourne-place, built by Ware, with the materials of old Chesterfield House, May Fair,
has disappeared. Close by is the terminus of the Qreat Western Rctilway, with i
magnificent Hotel, deagned in the Louis Qnatorze taste, by P. Hardwick, RX: the
allegorical sculpture of the pediment is by Thomas : the rooms exceed 130.
At Craven Mill was the Pest-house Field, exchanged for the grotind in Canabr-
street, given by Lord Craven as a burial.place, if London should ever be again riatfii
by the Plague : but the field is now the site of a handsome square of houses mmei
Chraven Qardens. BofftwaUr is a hamlet of Paddington. Knotting^ or NotHng SiU
seems but to have been a corruption of NutUngi the wood on and around the bill d
that name having for centuries been appropriately so named. Keneell, or Kentaie, is
*' the Ghreen-lane " and Eingsfelde Green in a Harleian MS. of Mary's reign. {See
p. 81.) Mcuda HiU and Maida Vale were named from the iiEimous battle of Msidi,
in Calabria, fought between the French and British, in 1806.
The Orand Junction Waterworke were established in 1812 ; and on Oamden-hill is •
storing reservoir containing 6,000,000 gallons. At Paddington the baan of the Graai
Junction Canal joins the Regent's Canal, which passes under Maida-hill by a tonoel
870 yards long. On the banks of the canal, the immeuMe heaps of dust and asb^
once towering above the house-tops, are said to liave been worth fabulous thousands.
^'The BUhop't JSHaU* (Bishop's-road, Blomfield-terrace, &c.) produces 30,0002.1
year to the Bishop of London and the lay lessees. Among the parochial Chariiiet^
the anniversary festival of an Abbot of Westminster is thought to explain " the Bread
and Cheese Lands/' and until 1838, in accordance with a bequest, bread and cheese
were thrown from the steeple of St. Mary's Church, to be scrambled for in the chorch-
yard. (See Lock Hospital^ p. 438; St. Mast's, p. 439.)
OxfJrd and Cambridge Squares and Terraces will long keep in grateful memory the
munificence of the Lady Margaret^ Countess of Richmond, to the Universities of Oxford
and Cambridge.
Paddington possessed a church befinre the district was asmgned to the monks of West-
minster, in 1222. An "old and ruinous church*' was taken down about 1678, and was
thought, from its painted window, to have been dedicated to St Katharine, Next, ^
Jame^s Church was built by the Sheldons, temp. Charles I. : here Hogarth was married
to Sir James Thomhill's daughter, in 1729. This church was taken down, and SL
Mary's built upon the Oreen, 1788-91, " finely embosomed in venerable elms :" near
it were the village stocks, and in the churchyard were an ancient yew-tree and a
double-leaved elder. Here is the tombstone of John Hubbard, who died in 1665, "ag^
111 years." Near the grave of Mrs. Siddons lies Haydon, the ill-fated painter, wk
devoted " forty-two years to the improvement of the taste of the English people in bigb
art:" he lived many years at 1, Burwood-place, Edgware-road; and here, Jane ^
1846, with his own hand, he terminated the fitful fever of his existence. St. Marft
Church is described at p. 187. Next was built Bagswater Chapel, by Mr. Qrme,tbe
printseUer, in 1818; Connaught Chapel, in 1826, now St John's; and at the wc&tflrn
extremity of the Orand Junction-road, St. Jameifs, which in 1845 became the pari^
church. In 1844^6 was built Kolg Tnnitg Church, Bishop's-road (see p. 208): cost
18,458^., towards which the Rev. Mr. MUes gave 4000^ In 1847 was erected, in
Cambridge-place, All Saints Church, upon a portion of the ste of the old Gnnd
Junction Waterworks' reservoir, at the end of Star-street St, John's, in Southnicl^'
PAINTED CHAMBER, THE, 625
crescent, has a fine stained window. The erection of DiaBonters* places of worship waa
long restricted in Paddington by the Bishops of London ; bat there are several chapels,
iDcludiug one for the Canal boatmen, constmcted oat of a stable and coach-hoose. At
the western extremity of the parish is a large Roman Catholic chnrcfa.
Paddfng:ton has long been noted for its old pubUe'hoM**$. The WkUt Limt^ Edfrware-road, dates
1624, the year when hops were first imported. At the Bed Lion, near the Harrow-road, tradition sayi,
Shakspeare acted ; and another JBsd Xion, forinerly near tlie Harrow-road bridfre over the boam, is de-
■cribcd in an inquisition of Edward YI. In this road is also an ancient Pack-hone; and the WketO'
•koaf, Edgware-road, was a &Toarite resort of Ben Jonson. (See Robins's Faddingion.)
Paddington and Marylebone appear to have been fSayoured by religions enthnsiasts.
At No. 26, Manchester-street, died, in 1814, the notorions Joanna Sonthoott, after having
imposed npon six medical men with the absnrd story of her being abont to give birth
to the young " Shiloh." Kicliard Brothers, the self-styled "Nephew of God," lodged
at No. 58, Paddington-street, and died in Upper Baker-street, in 1824. Spence, the
disciple of Emanuel Swcdenborg, lived in Qreat Marylebone-street : he was known as
** Dr. Spence," when he was the only surgeon in the village of Marylebone. Paddington,
with all its antique fame, does not make us forget two odd things that have been said
of the district :—
*<PittlstoAddington.
As London is to PaAdington.*'— >GBiMii^.
And Lord Byron remarks : ** Here would be nothing to make the Canal of Venice more
poetical than that of Paddington, were it not for its artificial adjuncts."
FAINTED CHAMBES, TKE,
REPKESENTED to have been the bed-chamber and death-plaoe of Edward the Con-
fessor, in the old Palace at Westminster, existed in its foundation-walls until the
Qreat Fire in 1834. It was also called St. Edward's Chamber; and assumed its second
name after it had been paitUed by order of Henry III. In the oeremonial of the mar-
riage of Richard Duke of York, in 1477, the Painted Chamber is called St. Edward's
Chamber ; and Sir Edward Coke, in his Fourth Institute, states that the causes of
Parliament were in. ancient time shown in La Chambre DepeitU, or St. Edward's
Chamber. This interesting historical apartment had two floors, one tessellated, and
the other boarded : it was 80 feet 6 in. in length, 26 feet wid^ and its height from
the upper floor was 81 feet. The ceiling, temp, Henry III^ was dight with gilded and
painted tracery, induding smaU wainscot paterss, variously ornamented. It was hnng
with tapestries, chiefly representing the Siege of Troy, probably put up temp, Charles
II. Sandford, in his Coronation of Jamee II,, mentions these tapestries as " Five
pieces of the Siege of Troy, and one piece of Gardens and Fountuns." In 1800, these
hangings and the wainscoting were removed,* when the walls and window-jambs were
foimd covered with paintings of the battles of Maccabees; the Seven Brethren; St.
John, habited as a pilgrim, presenting a ring to King Edward the Confessor ; the
canonization of King Edward, with seraphim, &c, ; and black-letter Scripture texts.
The paintings are noticed in the MS. Itinerary of Simon Simeon and Hugo the Illu-
ininator (Fnndscan friars), in 1322 ; who name " that well-known chamber, on whose
walls all the histories of the wars of the whole Bible are painted beyond description :"
and an Exchequer Boll, 20 Edw. I. anno 1292, headed, **p*ma op*a<fo picture," or first
work of Pointing, contains an account of the disbursements of Master Walter, the
planter, for the emendation of the pictures in the King's Cfrectt Chamber, as the
Painted Chamber was then called.t Specimens of these paintings are given by J. T.
Smith in his Aniiquities of Weetminsters and in the Vetutta Monumenta, voL vi. ; and
in 1836, drawings of the pictures were exhibited to the Society of Antiquaries.
In the Ptdnted Chamber, Psrliaments were opened, before the Lords sat in the
Court of Beqnests. Here Conferences of both Houses were held; here sat in private
• About the year 1830^ the tapestrj was sold to Mr. Charles Tamold, of Great St. Helen's, for 101.
t There are also entries in the Cloee Bolls, 12 Hen. III. (1228). for painting the Great ucheqner
Chamber; and 1296, for the King's Great Chamber: proving that oii^palnnng was prsctitcd in EDgland
nearly two oantoiies before its presomsd dlioovery oy John van E^yck, in lilO.
B S
626 CURIOSITIES OF LONDON,
the High Coaii of Justice for bringing Charles I. to trial ; and here the death-varrut
of the unhappy King was signed by the Regicides. The body of Lord Chatham lay in
State here. After the Fire of 1834, the walls of the Chamber were roofed, «nd the in-
terior was fitted up as a temporary Honse of Lords. The building was taken doin
in 1852, when the brick and stone work of the north side, and the ends cf tk
Chamber, including several (Gothic stone window-casesi were sold for 50/.
T
FAINTED GLASS.
HE finest specimens will be described under WnfDOWS, Paikted.
FALACS8, BOTAL.
THE three royal metropolitan palaces are, Buckingham Palace, the resadenoe of tbe
Sovereign and the Court; St. James's Palace, used exclusively for State purposes;
and Kensington Palace, the birthplace of Her Majesty, 1819 ; aud where she hc^ her
First Council, 1837.
Hatton (In 1706) urs : ** Of Court$ ^our Xinga and Qftemu there were heretofore many in Looto
and Weetmmfter : as ue Tower qfLomdont where aome oelieve Julias Cesar lodged, and Williiai the
Conqaeror; hi the Old J«wr«, where Henry VI^ BaptanTa CaHU. where Henry Vil.; Bride^tfB,
where Kmg John and Henry vIIL; Towtr JZoyoi^ where Richard ll. and Kin^ Stephen; Wardr;^
in Great Cuter-lane, where Richard III.; also at Sowttnet Sou$e, kept by Qoeen Elizabeth; sod at
Wegtmiiuiert near the Hall, where Edward the Confessor and sererai other kings kept their Courtf.
Bat of later times, the place for the Coart, when in town, was mostly WkiiduUl; a veiy pleasant sfid
commodioas sitoation, looking into St. James's Park, the canal, &c. west, and the noble river of Thsmes
east : Privy Qardens. with fountains, statnes, Ao^ and an open inospect to the statue at Chaiing Cross,
nortli. This palace beingr. in Jannary, 1697, demoUshed by fire, except the Banqueting Hoizse (built tj
Inigo Jones, temp. James I.), there mm since been no reception for the Court hi town bat Si. Jamea"*
Palace, which is pleasantly situated bv the Park ; and WkUekail will doobtless be rebnilt in a abort
time, being designed one of the most nmous palaces in Christradom.
** Her Majea^ has also these noble palaces for the Court to reside In at pleasure : JTemnmetom Saae
(so near, that it may be said to be in town), Campden Souee, Windur CaelUt UamtBion Oomrt^ W**-
ekerter Souse; all which palaces, for pleasant situation, ndileness of building, deligntflil gardens tad
walks, extemdiy ; and for commodious, magnificent rooms, rich furniture, and eurioua painting, inte^
nally,— cannot be matched in number and quality by any one prince on earth."
BucKiNGHAX Paxacb, the town residence of the Sovereign, on the west side of St
James's Park, was built by Nash and Blore, between 1825 and 1837, upon the site of
Buckingham House, of which the grouud-floor alone remains. The northern nde of
the site was a portion of the Mulberry-garden, planted by James I. in 1609, which in
the next two reigns became a public garden. Evelyn desciibcs it in 1654 as " y* only
place of refreshment about y* towne for persons of y* best quality to be exceedingly
cheated at;" and Pepys refers to it as "a nlly place," but with "a wilderness some-
what pretty." It is a &vourite locality in the gay come^es of Charles IL's reign.
Dryden frequented the Mulberry Gardens ; and according to a contemporary, the poet ate tarts tberp
with Mrs. Anue Beeve, hie mistress. The company sat in arbours, and were regaled with cheneeake«»
fcyllobnbs, and sweetened wine , wine-and-water at dinner, and a dish of tea afterwards. Sometimes th«
ladies wore masks. ** The countiy Udys, for the first month, take up their places in the Molberry Citr-
dens as early as a dtlaen's wife at a new play."— Sir C. Sedl^s MtUberrjf Garden, 1668.
*' A princely palace on that space does rise
Where Sedley's noble muse found mulberriea.**— >2>r. Ziajr.
Upon the above part of the garden site was built Ooring Mouse, let to the Earl of
Arlington in 1666, and thence named Arlington Souse : m this year the Earl brongbt
from Holland, for 60«., the first pound of tea received in England ; so that, in aU
probability, the first cup of tea made in JSngland was drunk upon the site of BucHng-
ham Palace. There is a rare print of Arlington House, by Sutton Nichols, and a copy
by John Seago. In 1698 the property was sold to Sheffield, Duke of Buckingham,
for whom the house was rebuilt in 1703, in the heavy Dutch style, of red brick, i^itli
stone finishings. Some vignettes of the mansion, then Buckingham House, are en-
graved at the heads of chapters, and in illuminated capitals, of the second volume of
the collected poems of Buckingham, " the Houses' friend, himself a Muse." On the four
sides he inscribed, in gold, four pedantic mottoes : "Sic siti Istantur Lares;" " Bos in
urbe ;" " Spectator fastidiosus sibi molestus ;" and " Lente incoepit, dto perfecit." The
house was surmounted with lead figures of Mercury, Secrecy, Equity, Liberty, Tratb,
and Apollo ; and the Four Seasons. Defoe describ^ it as " one of the great beauties
of London, both by reason of its situation and its biulding :" its fine garden, noble
PALAOE, BUCKINGHAM. 627
terrace (with prospect of open oonntry), a little park with a pretty canal ; and the
basin of water, and Neptnne and Tritons' fbuntun in the fifont court. The Duke of
Buckingham, in a letter to the Duke of Shrewsbury, minutely describes the mansion :
its hall painted in the school of Baphael; its parlour by Biod; its sturcase with the
story of Dido ; its ottling with gods and goddesses; and its grand saloon by Gentileschi.
The flat leaded roof was balustraded fbr a promenade; and here was a cistern holding
60 tons of water, driven up by an engme from the Thames.
To his third wife, a natural daughter of James II. by Catherine SedleT, the Poke was tenderly
attached, and itudied her couTenienoe Injplaiming Bockinffham House : ** the highest storjr of the pn-
Tat« apartments," he tells as, ''is fitted for the women and childrcu, with the floors ao oontrived as to
prevent all noise over my wife's head daring the .mysteries of Ladna."
Buckingham House was purchased by Qeorge III. for 21,000/. in 1762, shortly
after the birth of the Prince of Wales at St. James's Palace : thdr Majesties soon
removed here, and all their succeeding children were bom here. In 1775 the property
was settled on Queen Charlotte (in exchange for Somerset House), and thenceforth
Buckingham House was called " the Queen's House." Here the King collected his
magnificent library, now in the British Museum (see p. 584). Dr. Johnson, by per-
mission of the librarian, frequently consulted books; and here he held his memorable
conversation with Qeorge III.
" It Is cniious that the royal oolleotor (Osorge III.) sad his venerable libiariaa (Mr. Bsrnard) ihoold
have snnriTed almost sixty years after commencing the formation of this, the most complete priTato
library in Earope, steadily appropriating 20002. per annam to this ofcject. and adhering with scrapaloos
attention to tiie Instractions of Dr. Johnson, contained in the admLrable letter printed by order of the
Hoose of Commons."-~QMrfar^ Btview, Jone^ 1826.
In 1766 the Cartoons of Baphael were removed here, to an octagonal apartment
at the south-east angle : thenoe they were transferred to Windsor Castle in 1788. The
Saloon was superbly fitted as the Throne-room, and here Queen Charlotte held her
public drawing-rooms; in the Crimson, Blue Velvet, and other rooms, was a fine
collection of pictures. Thus the mannon remained until 1825, externally " dull*
dowdy, and decent; nothing more than a large, substantial, and respectable-looking
red brick house."
The Palace, as reconstructed by Kash, oonnsted of three rides of a square, Roman-
Corinthian, raised upon a Doric basement^ with pediments at the ends ; the fourth
side, enclosed by iron palisades, with a central entrance arch of white marble, adapted
from that of Constantino at Bome. Mr. Nash was succeeded by Mr. Blore, who
raised the building a story ; and the palace wa& opened for public inspection in 1881;
when appeared, in Frtuer's MagcuBtne, an architectural description of the Palace,
written by Allan Cunningham. William IV. and Queen Adeliude did not remove
here ; but on July 13, 1837, Queen Victoria took up her residence here. In 1846
the erection of the east ride was commenced; and in 1851 the Marble Arch was re-
moved to the north-east comer of Hyde Park. There have since been added a spacious
Ball-room, Ac., on the south ride of the Palace.
The East iVont of Buckingham Pslace is Gkrman, of the last century t its extent
is 360 feet, height 77 feet; extreme bright of centre 90 feet; frontage 70 feet in
advance of the former wings. The four central gate-piers are capped by an heraldic
Hon and unicorn, and dolphins ; and the state entrances have golden grilles of rich
design. Tbe wings are surmounted by statues of Morning, Noon (Apollo), and
Night; the Hours, and the Seasons; and upon turrets flaxd^ing the central shield
(bearing "V. R. 1847") are colossal figures of Britannia and St. George; berides
groups of trophies, festoons of flowers, &c. The Royal Standard is hoisted on the west
front when her Majesty is rerident at the Palace. The inner front has a central
double portico ; the tympanum is filled with sculpture^ and the pediment crowned
with statues of Neptune, Commerce, and Navigation in the centre. Around the
entire bulling is a scroll friexe of the rose, shamrock, and thistle. The Garden or
Western Front, architecturally the principal one, has five Corinthian towers, and a
balostnided tenaoe; the upper portion having statues, trophies, and bas-rehefs, by
Flaxman and other sculptors. The materials are Portland-stone and cement.
The Marble Hall and Seulptwre Oallety have mosaic bordered floors, and rang^
of Carrara columns with monic gold bases and capitals. The sculptures consist
SIS
«28 CURIOSITIES OF L0ND02T.
chiefly of beats of the Boyal Family and eminent statesmen. Beyond the Seolpturc
Gallery is the Library. The Orand Staircase is marUe, with ormolu scanthas
halnstrades : the ceiling has frescoes by Townsend, of Morning, Evening, Noon, ai^
Night, on a gold ground; bemdes wreaths of flowers, imitative marbles, &&, in the
ItiJian manner. The brief pageant of the Qneen leaving the Palace to proceed in
state to open Parliament may be witnessed by 'Hckets of admission to the Ha]!,
issued by the Lord Great Chamberlain. Upon such oocasons, the Teomen of the
Guard, Yeomen Porters, and other official persons, in their rich costumes^ while tlie
Sovereign proceeds to the State-carriage, present a magnificent scene. The V^
Me is richly decorated with vermilion and gold : here are a marble statue of the
Qneen, by Gibson, RJ^. ; and of Prince Albert, by Wyatt ; also bas-reliefi of Peace
and War, by John Thomas. The looking-glass and ormoln doors cost 300 guineas a-pur,
and esch mosaic gold cajntal and base 30 guineas.
The principal Slate Apartments are : the Oreem Drawing-room, in the centre of the
east front, and opening upon the upper portico : for state balls, Tippoo Sahib's Tent is
added to this room, upon the portico, and is lighted by a gorgeous ** Indian nm,"
8 feet in diameter. Next is the Throne Room, which is 64 feet in length : the vilk
are hung with crimson satin ; and the coved ceiling is emblazoned with arms, and
gilded in the boldest ItaUan style of the fifteenth century. Beneath is a vhite
marble frieze, sculptured by Baily, with the Wars of the Boses, Stothard'a last
g^eat design.* On the north side of the apartment is an alcove, with crimaoo
velvet hangings, gilding, and emblazonry, and a fascia of massive gilt wreaths
and figures. In this recess is placed the Boyal throne, or chair of stat«;
seated in which, surrounded by her Ministers, great officers of State, and the
Court, her Majesty recdves addresses. In thb room also are held Privy Coondls.
The Picture Gallery, in the centre of the palace, is about 180 feet in length by 26 feet
in breadth, and has a semi-Gothic roof, with a triple row of ground-glass lights,
bearing the stars of all the orders of knighthood in Europe ; but Yon Raumer eon-
siders the light false and insuffident, and broken by the architectural deooratiai&
Occasionally, this gallery has been used as a ball-room, and for state banquets.
The door-cases have colossal caryalidal figures, and are gorgeously g^lt ; and the
marble chimney-pieces are sculptured with medallion portraits of great painters.
The collection of pictures formed by Georm IV. la pre-eminently rich in Dutch and Flemish nt
The chief exceptions are R^nolde's Death of Dido, his C^mon and Iphigenia. and Sir Joshua's portrait
in spectacles; the Pennr Wedding, and Blind Man's BufE; by Wilkie; a Landscape by Galnsboroo^
and a few recent English works; and 4 pictures, by Wattean. In the collection are an Altar-piece o/
Albert Dnrer ; 7 pictures by Rembrandt, including the Shipbuilder and his Wife, for which George IV.,
when Prince of Wales, gave 6000 guineas ; Rubens, 7 : Marriage of St Catherine, and 4 others, by Van*
drke; Vandervelde,7; youuser vanderrelde, 4; G. Dow, 8; Panl Potter, 4; A. Ostade^Q; yoonger
Teniers, 14 ; Vandermeulen, IS ; WouvermanL 9 : Cuyp, 9.
In tlie State Rooms are royal portraits, by Kneller, L(Bly, A. Ramsay, N. Dance, Cknkley, Gainsborooghi
Wright, Lawrence, WUkie. Wintorhalter, &c
In the Western Front is the Orand (central) Saloon, north of which is the Tdlov
Drawing-room, communicating with the Private Apartments of her Migesty, which
extend along the north fVont of the palace. The Orand Saloon has a semidrcslar
bay, and scagliola lapis-lazuli columns with mosaic gold capitals, supporting a rieb
architrave, and bas-relief of children with emblems of muac; the domed oeilingsare
richly gilt with roses, shamrocks, and thistles, acanthus-leaves, and the royal snu
in the spandrels. The large apartment, formerly the St<Mte Ball-room, north of the
Qrand Saloon, has scagliola porphyry Corinthian colunms, with gilded capitals, can^iAg
an entablature and coved ceiling, elaborately gilt : here are Winterhalter's portraits of
the Queen and Prince Albert; and Vandyke's Charles I. and Henrietta-Maria. Soutb
of the Ball-room is the State Dining-room, which has an elegantly wrought oeilio&
and circular panels bearing the regal crown and the monogram Y. R. ; the whole in
stone tint : here are Lawrence's whole length of George IV. in his coronation robi^
and other royal portraits.
The South Wing, added since 1850, contains the kitchen and other domestic offices^
* The venerable Stothard was between seventy and eighty years old when be designed this (Hese;
yet it possesses all the vigour and imaginatioa which had distingaished his best days. The drawing*
were sold at Cliristie'a, on the decease ol the painter i Mr. Samuel Rogers became the purdiassr.
PALACE, BUCEINQHAM. 629
on the two lower stories; and above them, a Ball-room, 189 feet long; Supper-room, 76
ieet ; and Promenade-gallery, 109 feet ; the wing harmonizing with the Palace, as
1)uilt for Qeorge IV. The Ball-room was designed to be used for State-balls, State
concerts, and, on special occasions, as a State reception-room and banqueting room.
7be ceiling is divided by broad and deep bands into twenty-one pquare compartments,
resting on a bold and highly-enriched cove, which runs round the whole room. The
enrichments are all executed in plaster, carefully modelled and highly finished. The
-walls on each side of the room are divided into thirteen compartments. Fourteen of
the twenty-six are windows, the others being filled in with paintings, representing the .'
twelve hours, copied from the small originals by Raphael, existing in Rome. The !
silk hangingfs of the walls were woven in Lyons, from a design made to suit the room. (
The lighting^ of the room is peeallar. and very effective. In each compartment of the ceiling there
Sa a large •anlight gaa-bumer (21 in all), each enclosed in a chandelier or lostre of richly-cnt glass,
executed by Osier, and forming a brilliant pendant In the centre of each compartment. A great portion
of the light is, however, obtained, and a most brilliant effect is produced, by the novel method onilnmi-
nating the fourteen windows, wmch in most rooms are left either as dark blots, or are concealed bv
draperies. Next the room these windows are glased with deeply-cut glass stars of large sise, surrounded
by borders simllarlT cut, and lighted bv gas-burners, arranged between the outer and inner sashes in
auch manner as to bring out the Ml brilUuicy of the cut-glass in all its detail. Great attention has
been paid to the ventilation of the room. There are also ten magnificent candelabra of gUt bronze^
each holding 43 wax candlcflw and standing upon the raised platform.
At the west end a kind of throne or recess has been formed for the Queen, with Corinthian columns
carrying an entablature and a bold detached arohlvolt, on which rests a medialUon, contiOning the pro-
flics of her Mi^esty and the Prince Consort, supported by emblematio figures of Historv and Fame:
these, and all other sculptures, around the doors, above the larae mirrors maced opponite the doors, and
throughout the whole suite of apartments, were executed by Mr. Theed. The recess formed at the east
end, above the attendants' rooms, Is appropriated to the organ and the orchestra j the latter, for 70 per-
Ibrmers, can be enlarged for 120.
The merit of the architectural sculptures is their wUianalify, The friezes and re-
liefs of scenes in British history are mostly by Baily, R. A. : those of Alfred expelling
the Danes, and delivering the Lawa, on the garden-front, and the Progress of.Naviga-
tion^ on the main fronts are fine compositions ; as are also Stothard's Wars of the
Roses, in the Throne-room ; and the eastern frieze of the rose, shamrock, and thistle.
But tiie marble chimney-pieces and door-cases, sculptured with caryatides^ fruit and
flowers, and architectural ornament, often present a strange mixture of fragments of
Egypt, Greece, Etruria, Rome, and the Middle Ages, in the same apartment.
In the garden were formerly two Ionic Conservatories ; the southernmost of which
is now the Palace Chapel, consecrated by the Archbishop of Canterbury, March 25,
1813. The aisles are formed by rows of Composite cast-iron columns; and at the west
end, facing the altar, is the Queen's closet, supported upon Ionic columns from the
screen of Carlton House. In the garden is the western boundary-stone of the parish of
St. Martin's-in-the-Fieldfl^ where, on Holy Thursday is performed the ceremony of
"striking the stone."
The Pleaeure-ffroimde comprise about 40 acres, including the lake of 5 acres ; at the
yerge of which, npon a lofty artificial mound, is a picturesque pavilion, or garden-house*
with a minaret roof. In the centre is an octagonal room, with figures of Midnight and
Dawn; and 8 lunettes, painted in fresco, from Milton's Comne, by Eastlake, Madise,
Landseer, Dyce, Stanfield, Uwins, Leslie, and Ross; besides relief arabesques, medallions,
figures and groups, from Milton's poems. On the right is a room decorated in the
Pompeian style, copied from existing remains. The apartment on the left is embel-
lished in the romantic style, f^om the novels and poems of Sir Walter Scott. {See
Oruner's Tlluitratione, described by Mrs. Jameson.)
Buckingham Pabu» has been the scene of two superb Costume Balls — ^in 1842
and 1845 : the first in the style of the reign of Edward III. ; and the f&te in 1845 in
the taste of George II.'s reign.
The Royal Meics is described at p. 565. The Riding-house has been covered
with cement ornamentation ; in the pediment is a large equestrian group, sculptured
by Theed, and upon the walls have beisn placed several large circular vases; the bank
has here been raised and planted with trees, to screen the palace-garden.
Immediately under the Palace passes '* The King's Scholars' Pond Sewer," the main drain of one of
the principal divisions of the Westminster connexion of sewers, occupying the whole channel ofa
rivulet formerly known aa Tye Brook, having its source at Hampstead, and draining an area at 8000
630 CZmiOSITIES OF LONDON.
acret, 1600 of which are oorored with hoaaea. A large portion of the aewer arches waa reeomtnieted.
under densely^popolated neighboarhoodt, without any lospioion on the part of the inhafaitanta of what
waa going on a few feet below the foondationa of their honsea. In ita present complete atate, thii ii^
perfaape, one of the moat remarkable and extenalTe pleoea of aewetage ever executed in ttala or ao j
other oonntiy,
St. Jaxes'b Palaob, Wertminster, on the north nde of St James's Fto-k, and at
the western end of Pall Mall, oocapies the site of a hospital, founded by some pioos
citizens prior to the Norman Conquest, for fourteen leprous females, to whom eight
brethren were added to perform divine service. The good work was decUcated to St.
James, and was endowed by the citizens with lands ; and in 1290, Edward I. granted
to the foundation the privilege of an annual Fair, to be held on t^e eve of St. James
and six following days. The house was rebuilt by Berkynge, abbot of Weatminst^*,
in Henry IIL's reign ; and in 1460 its perpetual custody was granted by Henry VI.
to Eton College. In 1532, Henry VIII. obtained the hospital in exchange for Chat-
tisham and other lands in SuiSblk : he then dismissed the inmates, pennoned the sister-
hood; and having pulled down the ancient structure, he ''purchased all the meadows
about St. James's, and there made a faire mansion and a parke for his greater com-
moditie and pleasure" {Koliiuhed) : the Sutherland View of 1543 shows the palace far
away in the fields. " The Manor House," as it was then called, is believed to have
been planned by Holbein, and built under the direction of Cromwell, Earl of Essex.
Henry's gatehouse and turrets face St. James's-street : the original hospital, to judge
from certain remains of stone muUions, labels, and other maaoniy, found in 1838, on
taking down some parts of the Chapel Royal, was of the Norman period. It was
oocadonally occupied by Henry as a semi-rural reudence, down to the period when
Wolsey surrendered Whitehall to the Crown. Edward and Elizabeth rarely redded at
St. James's : but Mary made it the place of her gloomy retirement during the absence
of her husband, Philip of Spun : here she expired. The Manor Houses with all its
appurtenances, except the park and the stables or the rnews^ were granted by James I.
to his son Henry in 1610; at whose death, in 1612, th^ reverted to the Crown.
Charles I. enlarged the palace, and most of his children Occluding Charles IL) were
bom in it : here he deposited the galleiy of antique statues prindpally collected for
him by Sir Kenelm Bigby. In this reign was fitted up the chapel of the hospital,
on the west side^ as the Chapel Royal^ described at pp. 140-1. Here Charles I. attended
divine service on the morning of his execution; " from hence the king walked through
the Park, guarded with a regiment of foot and partisans, to WhitebsJl." (Whitelock's
MemoritUs, p. 374.) The Queen'e Chapel, now the Chrman Chapel, was built for
Catherine of Braganza, in the friary of the conventual establishment founded here by
her Majesty, under the direction of Cardinal Howard.
The Qaeen first heard mass there on Sonday, Septemher 21, 1683, when Ladr Caatlemahie, thoogli
a Protestant, and the King^t avowed mistress, attended her as one of her maida of honour. Pepya
describes *' the fine altar ornaments, the ftyers in their hablta, and the priests with their fine crosses,
and many other fine things/*— Dioiy, vol. i. p. 312.
At '* St. James's Hoose" Monk resided while planning the Bestoralaon. In the old
bed-chamber, now the ante-chamber to the levee-room, was bom James (the old Pre-
tender), the son of James II. by Mary of Modena : the bed stood dose to the back
stairs, and favoured the scandal of the child being conveyed in a warming-pan to the
Queen's bed. In this reign Yerrio, the painter, was keeper of the pajaoe-gardens.
During the Civil Wars, St. James's became the prison-house^ for nearly three years,
of the Duke of York and Duke of Gloucester, and the Princess Elizabeth : on April 20,
1648, the Duke of Tork escaped from the palaoe-garden into the Pftrk, through the
Spring Ckirden, to a hackney-coach in waiting for him ; and, in female disguise, he
reached a Dutch vessel below Gravesend. After the BestoraUon, the Duke occupied
St. James's; and one of its rooms was hung with portraits of the Court Beauties, by
Sir Peter Lely. Here the Duke slept the night before his coronation as James II., and
next morning proceeded to Whitehall.
On December 18, 1688, William Prince of Orange came to St. James's, where, three
days afterwards, the peers assembled, and the household and other officers of the
abdicated sovereign laid down their badges. Evelyn says : " All the world goes to see
the Prince at St. James's, where there is a greato court. There I saw him : he is
PALACE, 8T, JAMES'S, 631
▼ery statel j, serious, and reserved." (Diary, vol. L p. 680.) King William occasionally
^' held ooancils here : bat it was not nntil after the burning of Whitehall, in 1697, that
^ - this Pftlaoe became used for state ceremonies, whence dates the Court of 8t, Jamej^t.
William and Mary, however, resided chiefly at Kensington ; and St. James's was next
rz. fitted up for (George Prince of Denmark, and the Princess Anne, who, on her accession
7i. to the throne, considerably enlarged the edifice. George I. lived here like a private
«i gentleman : in 1727 he gave a banquet here to the entire Court of Common OoundL
j:. The fourth plate of Hogarth's " Rake's Progress" shows St. James's Palace gateway
i in 1735, with the quaint carriages and chairs arriving on the birthday of Caroline^
: - Oeorge II.'s consort : her Miyesty died at St. James's in 1737. The wing facing
Cleveland-row was built for Frederick Prince of Wales, on his marriage in 1736.
The State Rooms were enlarged on the accession of George III., whose marriage was
celebrated here September 6, 1761. George IV. was bom here August 12, 1762;
and shortly afterwards the Queen's bed was removed to the Great Drawing-room, and
company were admitted to see the iniant prince on drawing-room days. The court
was held here during the reign of George III., though his domestic residence was at
Buckingham House. St. James's was refitted on the marriage of the Prince of Wales^
April 8, 1795, in the Chapel Royal. On January 21, 1809, the east wing of the
palace, including their migesties' private apartments and those of the Duke of Cam-
bridge, was destroyed by fire, and has not been rebuilt. In 1814 the State Apartments
were fitted up for the Emperor of Russia and the King of Prussia, when also Marshal
Bluchor was an inmate of the palace. In 1822 a magnificent banqueting-hall was
added to ttie state-rooms. In January, 1827, the remains of the Duke of York lay
in state in the palace. William IV.and Queen Adel^de resided here; but since the
accession of her present Migesty, St. James's has only been used fbr courts, levees and
drawing-rooms, and occasionally for State-balls.
The lofty brick gatehouse bears upon its roof the bell of the Oreat Clock, dated
A.D. 1731, and inscribed with the name of Clay, dockmaker to George II. It strikes
the hours and quarters upon three bells, requires to be wound every day, and originally
had only one hand. A print of the court-yard, with the meeting of Mary de Medicia
and her daughter Henrietta-Maria, in 1638, shows a dial which must have belonged
to a previous clock. The present dock was under the care of the Vnlliamys, the Royal
clockmakers, from 1749, until the death of B. L. Yulliamy.
When the gatehoose was repaired in 1831, the clock was removed, and not pat up again, on account
of the roof beiiiff reported nnaaie to carry the weight The inhabitants of the netghboarhood then me>
morialized WUlTam IT. for the replacement of the timekeeper : the King, haring ascertained its weight,
•hrewdlj inquired how, if the palace roof was not strong enoogfa to cany the clock, it was safe for the
number of persons occasionally seen upon it to witness prooeeslons, ke. The dock was forthwith r»>
placed, and a minute-hand was added, with new dials : the original dials were of wainscot, in a great
number of veiy small pieces, curiously dovetailed together.
The gatehouse enters the quadrangle, named the Colour Court, irom the colours oi
the military guard of honour being placed here : in this court one of the three regiments
of Foot Guards is relieved alternately every morning at eleven o'clock, when the keys
of the garrison are delivered and the regimental standard exchanged, during the per-
fbrmance of the bands of music Westward is the Ambetuador^ Court, where are the
apartments of certain branches of the Royal Family; and beyond it the Stable'Tard,
andently the stable-yard of the palace, and where was the Queen's Library, upon the
site of Stafford House. Here is Clarence House, described at p. 547. On the east
side is the Lord Chamberlain's office, where permission may be obtained to view the
palace. Eastward of the gatehouse is the Office of the Board of Chreen Cloth ; and
0till further, the office of the Lord Steward of Her Mi^jesty's Household. Beyond are
the gates leading to the quadrangle, known of old as " the Chair Court." Tlie SttUe
jLpartmente, in the south front of tiie palace, front the garden and St. James's Park.
The Sovereign enters by the garden gate ; and it was here, on the 2nd of August, 1796,
that Margaret Nicholson attempted to assassinate George III. as he was alighting
from his carriage. The State Apartments are reached by the Ghreat Staircase, the
JSntr^e Gallery, the Guard Chamber (its walls covered with weapons in ftnoifhl
devices), and a similar apartment. Here are stationed the Yeomen of the Queen's
Onard; and the honours of the Guard-Chamber are paid to distinguished personages
«32 cuBiosimsa of lonbon. __^
on levee and dnwing-room days. George III. held Drawing-rooms much more lie-
qnently than they are held at present. To quote the Court Chtide of 1792, ''tiie
King's Levee days are Wednesday and Friday, and likewise Monday doring the ntting
of Flsrliament ; his Drawing-room days every 8unday and Thorsday."
TrnMH qftkt Guard wore Ortt instituted in 1486, by Henry YIU npon the model of a aomfvbat
sbnilar band retained by Lonls XI. of France. Tbey were at first arcbers; bat on the death of
WUUam 111. all took the partlaan, as now carried. The dreaa has continned almost unaltered once
the reiffn of Charles II.
Th* Conm of OentUmmiHa-Arm$ (ehan«ed tnm Pensioners by WUllam lY.) was institated \ij
Henry VIII., disbanded during the avil Wars, but reconstructed at the Restoration, and at the Ben-
lotion of 1688. In 1746, when George II. raised his standard on Finehley Common, these " Genticmen''
wen ordered to pmvide themselves with horses and equipment to attend his Majesty to the tm.
Their present uuform is scarlet and gold : and the corps carry on parade nnall Dattie-azes oorered
with crimson Tel vet On April 10, ISA, on the apprehension of a Chartist outbreak; St. James's Pslset
was garrisoned and guarded by these ancient bodies.
Beyond the Goard-Chamher is the Tapestry Boom, hnng with gorgeoos tapestry
made for Charles XL, and representing the amonrs of Venns and Mars. The stone
Tndor arch of the fireplace is scnlptured with the lettera H. A. (Ilenry and Anne
Boleyn), united by a true-lover's knot, surmoonted by a regal crown ; also the hly of
France, the portcullis of Westminster, and the rose of Lancaster. Here the sovereign!
of the House of Brunswick, on the death of their predecessors, are received by the
Privy Council, and from the capacious bay window produmed and presented to the
people assembled in the outer court, where are the sergeants-at-arms and bend of
household trumpeters. The proclamation of her present Majesty, on June 21, 1837,
was a touching spectacle. Next the Tapestry-Room is Queen Anne^s Soom, the first
of the four g^reat state apartments. In this room the remains of Frederidc Duke of
York lay in State in January 1827. This apartment opens to the AtUe-Drmanff-
Soom, leading by three doon into the JPreience Chamber or Throne Moom, beyond
which is the Queen^e Clotet, The throne, at the upper end of the Presence Chamber,
is large and stately, and emblazoned with arms : the window-draperies here and in
the Queen's Closet are of splendid tietu^-verre. The entire suite is goi^eously gilt»
hung with crimson Spitalfields damasks, brocades, and velvets, embroidered with gold;
and the Wilton carpets bear the royal arms.
The public are admitted to the oorridor by tickets to see the company upon Draw-
ing-room days ; and upon certain occasions, when bulletins of the health of the sore-
reign are issued, they are shown to the public as they pass through the state-rooms.
Piehiret in fhe Stai* JpartwtenU.-^lArge paintings of the Siege of Tonrnay, and the Siege of Li«le
Sr the Duke of Marlborough. Portraits of Charles II., George I., George II., and Qoeen Aum;
eorge II L, the Prince of Wales, and the Dake of York, by Sir Josbna Beynolds ; George IV. and the
Duke of York, by Sir Thomas Lawrence. Count La Lippe, and the Haranis of Granbr, by Sir Josbos
Beynolds. Beauties of the Court of Charles II., copied tnm Hampton Court Lord Nelson, Earl St.
Vincent, and Lord Bodney, by Hoppner. The Battles of Vittoria and Waterloo, by G. Jones, BJL. In
the Kntr^e Gallery are whole-length portraits of Henry Vill^ reputed by Holbdn: Qoeen Muy;
Queen Elizabeth, by Zucchero ; James I., Charles I., after Vandyke ; Charles 1 L, James it, and William
snd Mary.
The carious pictures which were here in Pennant's time have been removed : including a ChVtd,
three years six months old, in the robes of a Knight of the Garter, the second son of James L; too
Geoflrey Hudson, the Dwarf; and Mabuse's Adam and Eve, painted with navels.
Here George IV. formed a fine collection of pictures, to which was added, in 1828, Haydon's "Motf
Election," which the King purchased of the pamter for 500 guineas.
KsKBiiroTOir Palacb, about two miles west of the metropolis, is named from the
adjoining town, although it is situated in the parish of St. Margaret, Westminster:
" High o'er the neighbouring lands,
'Midst grems and sweets, a regal fkbric stands."— 2Vel»a.
The original mannon was purchased (with the grounds, ax acres) by King Vnilism
III., in 1691, of Daniel Finch, second Earl of NottingViam. Evelyn notes :
"Feb. 25, 1890-1.-1 went to Kensington, which King William had bought of Lord Nottm^rlMO!
sad altered, but was yet a patched-np building; but with uie gardens, however, it is a very neat viUfc"
— JfesMln, vol. ii.
In the following November the house was nearly destroyed by fire, and the king
narrowly escaped being burned in his bed. The premises had been possessed by the
Finch fomily about half a century ; and after Sir Heneage Finch's advancement to i^
peerage, the mansion was called *< Nottingham House." William III. employed Wren
and Uawksmoor, who built the King's Gallery and the south fi^nt ; the eastern front
PALACE, KENSINGTON. 6;J3
Rs added by George I., from the designs of Kent ; the north wing is part of old
otting^ham House. The entire palace is of crimson brick, with stone finishings; and
insists of the Clock Conrt, Prince's Court, and Princess' Court. Kmg William Leld
»niicils in this palace ; its decoration was the favourite amusement of Queen Mary ;
id it was next fitted up as the residence of Queen Anne and Prince George of Den-
ark : for her luxurious Majesty was built the Banqueting- House, described at page
)3. The principal additions made by Kent, for George I., were the Cupola Room
id the Great Staircase ; the latter painted with groups of portraits from the Courts
eomen of the Guard, pag^, a Quaker, two Turks in the suite of George I., and Peter
ic Wild Boy. George II. and Queen Caroline passed most of their time here ; and
iiring the King's absence on the Continent, the Queen held at Kensington a court
rery Sunday. In this palace died Queen Mary and King William ; Queen Anne and
le Prince Consort ; and George IT.
The Cheat Siaircate, of black and white marble, and graceful ironwork (the walls
minted by Kent with mythological subjects in chiaroscuro, and architectural and
mlptural decoration), leads to the suite of twelve State Apartments^ some of which
re hung with tapestry and have painted ceilings. The Pretence Chamber has a
himney-piece richly sculptured by Gibbons with flowers, fruits, and heads ; the ceiling
\ diapered red, blue^ and gold upon a white field, copied by Kent from Herculaneum j
le pier-glass is wreathed with flowers by Jean Baptiste Monnoyer. The King's
Gallery, in the south front, iias an elaborately painted allegorical ceiling; and a dr-
ular fresco of a Madonna, after Raphael. The Cube Room is forty feet in height^
nd oontains glided statues and busts ; and a marble bas-relief of a Roman marriage,
y Rysbraeck. The Kin^e Great Drawing-room was hung with the then new paper^
1 imitation of the old velvet flock. The (^en'e Gallery in the rear of the eastern
rout, continued northwards, has above the doorway the monogram of William and
lary ; and the pediment is enriched with fruits and flowers in high relief and wholly
fitached, probably carved by Gibbons. The Cfreen Closet was the private closet of
Villiam III., and contained his writing-table and escritoire ; and the Patehwork Closet
lad its walls and chairs covered with tapestry worked by Queen Mary.
During the reign of George III. the palace was forsaken by the sovereign ; towards
ts close, a suite of rooms was fltted up for the Princess of Wales, and her aged mother
he Duchess of Brunswick. The lower south-eastern apartments beneath the King's
Jallery were occupied by the late Duke of Kent : here. May 24^ 1819, was bom
^ueen Victoria ; christened here on June 24th following ; and on June 20, 1837, her
Majesty held here her first Coundl, which has been admirably painted by Wilkie.
At Kenftinffton Palace the Prinoess Victoria received the intelligence of the death of William IV., as
iescribed in the Diarin of a Lady nf QituUitv : " June, 1837. On the 20th, at 2 A.1C, the icene dosed,
nd in a very short time, the Archbishop of Canterbury and Lord Conyngham, the Chamberlain, set oat
0 annotmee the event to their young Sovereiffn. They reached Kennngton Palace at about five; they
nocked, they racg, they thumped tor a connderabie time before they could rouse the porter at the
tktee ; th^ were again kept waiting in the courtyard, then turned into one of the lower rooms, where
hey seemed forgotten by everybodr. They rang the bell, desired that the attendant of the Princess
Victoria might be sent to inform H.R.H. that they requested an audience on business of importance.
itier another delay, and another ringing to inquire the cause, the attendant was summoned, who stated
hat the Princew was in such a sweet sleep she could not venture to disturb her. Then they said, ' We
re come to the Que^n on business of State, and even her sleep must give waT to that.' It did : and to
iroTO that tJU did not keep them waiting, m a few minutes she came into the room in a loose white
lightgown and shawl, her nightcap thrown off, and her hair falling upon her shoulders her fbet in
lippera, tears in her qres, but perfectly collected and dignified.
'^ The first act of the reign was of coarse the summoning of the Coonoil, and most of the sommonses
rere not received till after the earlv hour fixed for its meeting. The Queen was, upon the opening of
he doors, found sitting at the head of the table. She receivea first the homage of the Duke of Com-
lerland, who, I suppose, was not King of HanoTcr when he knelt to her; the Duke of Sussex rose to
•erform the same ceremony, but the (^een, with admirable grace, stood up, and, prcTcntlng him firom
:nceling, kissed him on the forehead. The crowd was so great, the arrangements were so ill>made.
hat mv brothers told me the scene of swearing allegiance to their young SoTcretgn was more like that
•r the bidding at an anetion than anything else." [Sit David Wilkie has painted the scene— but with a
Ufference.]
The south wing of the older part of the palace was occupied by the late Doke of
Sussex, who died here April 21, 1843.
Here the Duke of Sussex, during 25 years, collected the celebrated BibUothsea SuttexioMOt uamber-
ng nearly 60,000 printed books and MBS., parohased volume by Tolome, at the sacrifice of many
m object of princely luxury and indulgence. The collection included nearly 900 Theological MSS. of
•he tenth, twelfth, thirteenth, fourteenth, and fifteenth centoriea ; besides abootSOOearly printed books
«34 CUBIOSITLES OF LONDON,
relating to the Holj Seriptarei. Among the nrities were 4B Hebrew HSS^ tome rolled; a ndh
illuminated Hebrew and Chaldaic Pentateuch, thirteenth centurj : a Greek New Testament, thirteeau
century, illuminated ; 16 copies of the Vulgate, on vellum, two with 100 miniatures in gold sndcolaan;
a splendidlT illuminated Psalter, tenth century: missals, breriaries, hours, offloee, Ac.; Xa MU
Morali$4€ (fifteenth century) ; Mutoria del VeetMo TetUmento, with 619 miniatures of the school o{
Giotto; BCTeral copies of the Koran, including that found by the conquerors of Seringnatam ia t]»
library of Tippoo Sultan, with his spectacles between the leaves, as if the perusal of it had beeo ooe ef
thehitestactsofTippoo's life; Armenian copy of the Gospels, thirteenth century ; MSB. in the Plli.
Burman, Gngalese, Ac. In the printed books were all the celebrated Polyglots, in fine oooditioQ; 71
editions of the Hebrew Bible ; 17 Hebrew-Samaritan and Hebrew Pentateuchs (Bomben editioni), and
the Great Rabbinical Bible, magniflceut specimens of Hebrew printing; Gre^ Bibles, of prMoos
value; Latin Bibles. 200 editions; Bibles in other languages, 1200 editions. In the Divinity dasas
were, the first Armenian, the first Irish, the first SoUvonic, the first German, and the first BHunoed
editions of Luther; the first English Bible, by Ooverdale; the first Greek Bible, or Granmcr's.le.;
besides Classics, Lexicography, Chronicles, Law, and Parliamentary Histories, of hnmense eKtent Tb
theological collection filled an apartment 100 feet in length; and hero, seated in a curtained chsir, the
Buke passed the life of a toil-worn student In these rooms His Boyal Highnww gave his ewMrw
sioas as President of the Boyal Society.
In Eoniington Palace was formerly deponted the greater part of the rojal ooBectsm
of paintings* commenoed by Henry YIII. ; and removed here by William III., as ap-
pears from a catalogae taken in 1700, and now in the British Moseam. The edllee^
was much aagmented by Queen Caroline^ bat after the death of George II.» several d
the finest pictures were removed to Windsor and elsewhere. In 1818, however, here
were more than 600 pictures, which were catalogued by B. West, P.KA. Few nov
remain : but in the southern apartments is a collection of Byzantine, early Itate
German, and Flemish paintings, formerly the property of Prince Louis lyOttii^
Wallerstein, and purchased by the late Prince Consort. The majority of th^e 102
pictures are curious spedmens of sacred art, — triptychs, altar-pieces, and other worb
of primitive design and elaborate antiquity.
The Oreen, westward of the Palace, and called in andent records ** the Moor/' ««
the military parade when the Court resided here, and the royal standard was hoisted
daily. Here are barracks for fbot-soldiers, who mount guard at the Palace. North-
ward of the Palace were the kitchen-gardens, about 20 acres, now Queen's-road, with
two lines of elegant villas. {See Keksikoton Gabdeito,* pp. 488, 494).
Caslton Housb occupied that portion of Waterloo-place which is aoul^ of Pail
Mall. It was oriiylnally bmlt for Lord Carlton, in 1709 : bequeathed by him to his
nephew. Lord Bur) ^^gton, the architect^ and purchased, in 1732, by Frederick Prince d
Wales, father of Gi»OTge III. : here the Princess of Wales died in 1772. The house
was of red brick. The name of the original architect, in the tdme of Queen Anne, is
not known, but the celebrated landscape gardener-architect E^t laid out the groao^
when the properly was in Lord Burlington's hands, between 1725 and 1732. These
gardens extended along the south side of Pall-mall, and are said to have been in imita-
tion of Pope's garden at Twickenham, with numerous bowers, grottoes, and termioal
busts. Mr. Cunningham speaks of an engraving of them by WooUett. When the
property was assignml in 1788 as the residence of the Prince of Walea— afterwards
Oeoi^e IV. — ^great alterations were made in Carlton House, under Holland, the
Prince's architect.
Horace Walpole writes, Sept. 17, 1786 1 " We went to see the Prinee's new palace in PsII Mall, nj
were charmed. It will be the most perfect in Europe. There is an angutt sunplicity that sstomsbea
me. You cannot call it magnificent ; it is the taste and propriety that strike. Every ornament is «: *
proper distanoe, and not one too large, but all delicate and new, with more fteedora and varietj tbffl
Greek ornaments [designed by Gobert] . . . and there are three most spacious apartments, all lookiof
on the lovely garden, a terreno, a state apartment, and an attic The portico, vestibule, hall, and ^
case will be superb, and, to my taste, full of perspectives : the jewel or all is a small mnaic-room, um
opens into a green recess, and winding walk of the gardens. In all the fiUry tales you hawe 1^> ^
never was in ao pretty a scene. Madam [Countess of Ossory.) I forgot to tell you how admirsblr aU w
carving, stucco, and ornaments, are executed; but whence tne money is to come, I conceive not; aU tv
tin mines in Cornwall could not pav a quarter. How sick one shall be after this ehaste palace of v.
Adam's gingerbread and sippets of embroideTy V*—L*tten; Cunningham's edit vol. ix.p. IS.
The main front of the house had a central portico, was hezastyle, and of the Corin-
thian order. The hall was square on the plan, and on each side was an opening, or i
recess, with a segmental coffei^d arch, enclosing two Ionic columns and entablatm«,th^
last supporting vases and chimerie. A landing of the staircase was octagonal in plaoi
* " The gravel of Kensington is of European repute. At the gardens of Versailles, and Caserta.
dear Naples, the walks have been supplied ih>m the Kensington gravel-pita."— QaortsHjr iZ«rMv, ^<^
«xuix. p. 237.
PALL MALL. 635
Trith well-hole and lantern-light ; and the angles of the ceiling there, were formed by
fan-shaped springers. One of the dining-rooms was circular, with columns and re-
cesses, somewhat after the arrangement of those features in the Pantheon at Rome.
At the opposite sides of this room were large mirrors. The general decoration of the
house Was of pseudo-classical character. Trophies were freely introduced ; and panels,
even those of doors, were enriched with lyres, wreaths, and festoons. One common
introduction was that of terminal figures. Oenerally, the ceilings were painted to
represent the sky and clouds. In the furniture gilding was used to a great extent. In
many of the rooms, the furniture was entirely gilt^ with crimson or crimson and black
cushions. The most important point for notice as to the interior of Carlton House, is
the absence of the Louis Quinze style. The Carlton House chair and table are re-
xnembered. Among the rooms were the Crimson Drawing-room ; the Blue Velvet-
room ; the Golden Drawing-room, or Corinthian-room : the Gothic Dining-room. Tlie
oonservatoiy, said to be in ** imitation of a cathedral, or Henry VII.'s chapel," but
equally suggestive of Boslyn Chapel : the ribs of the fiui-traoeiy were filled in with
stained glass.
Here was a remarkably fine collection of arms and costume^, including two swords
of Charles I. ; swords of Columbus and Marlborough, and a couteau^-ekcute used by
Charles XII. of Sweden, which relics are now in the North Corridor at Windsor
Castle. Carlton House was sumptuously furnished for the Prince's ill-starred marriage
in 1795 : here, Jan. 7, 1796, was born the Princess, baptized Feb. 11, Charlotte- Augusta ;
ond on May 2, 1816, married here to Leopold, subsequently King of the Belgians.
The ceremonial of conferring the Regency was enacted at (^urlton House with great
pomp, Feb. 6, 1811, and on Juno 19 foUowing, the Prince Regent gave here a superb
supper to 2000 guests; a stream with gold and ulver fish fiowing through a marble
•canal down the centre table.
Upon tlie scnsn of lonlo oolmiins lh>nting Pall Mall, Bonoml wxote the IbUowing epigram :
" Oare oolonne^ che fktti qaii P
Non lapiamo, in reriU : "
^has anglldsed bj Fkinoe Hoares
" Dear little oolomns, all in a row.
What do yon do there?
Indeed we don't know."
'Sheridan's allneion to these oolamns was not much more complimentary. About the time that the
Doke of York took poneeeion of Mdboome HooMb now Dover Hoaae^ near the Hone-Ouarda, of which
the moat remarkable feature ia the capola in front, lome diaonaaiona were raised in Parliament about
the debta of the Dake and hia royal brother at Carlton Hooae. The Tirtuooa indignation of the Oppo-
•ition waa tremendooa : and aome of their remarka having been reported to Sheridan when he entered
the Hooae of Commona, " I wonder," aaid he, " what amoant of pnniahment wonld aatiaiy aome people 1
Bas not the one got into the Boundhooae, and the other into the FiUarjf r* Thia ia another veraion
«f the anecdote related at page M0.
In 1827, Carlton House was removed : the columns of the portico (adapted from the
Temple of Jupiter Stator at Rome) bmng subsequently used in the portico of the
l^ational Gallery, and the ornamental interior details (as marble mantel-pieces, friezes,
columns, Ac.) transferred to Buckingham Palace. The colonnade pillars are employed in
one of the orangeries in Kew Gardens. Thus disappeared Carlton House. Upon tiie site of
the gardens have been bmlt the York Column and Carlton House-terrace: the balustrades
of the latter originally extended between the two ranges of houses ; but were removed
to form the present entrance into St. James's Park, by command of WilUam IV., very
soon after his accession. Upon the site of the courtyard and part of Carlton House
tffe the United Service and Atheneum Clubhouses, and the intervening area lacing
Waterloo-pkce. The Riding-house and Stables had a semicircular conch-headed recess^
intersected by an entablature ; the Doric columns supporting the latter, being without
haaes, and fiuted, but Roman in character.
FALL MALL.
^ A FINE spadous street between the Haymarket N.E., and St. James's street S.W.*
•Lj^ {Hatton, 1708), and one-third of a mile in length, is named from the French
game of paiUe-maiUe having been played there. The space between St. James's
House and Charing Cross, about 1660, appears to have been fields, with three or fbor
houses at the east end of the present Fall Mall, and opposite a small church, the name
^6 CJmi08ITIE3 OF LONDON.
of which Pennant oonld not diaoover. Down this road came Sir Thomas Wjat, ** on
fbot, hard by the Conit-gate of St. James's, with four or five anndeDta, las mcs
marching in good way/' and thos proceeded to Charing Cross and WhitehaE.
At the etsfc end of Psil Mall, in the reign of Henry YI., stood a group of monastic bafldlogs caDed
** the Rookery/* belouKingto the monks ofWestminster : here resided Erumoe, by farour of Heniy VIIL
and the Interest of Anne Boleyn. When these buildings were demolished at the Beformation, tisditn
relates there was found a secret smithy, which had been erected by order of Henry VI. for the pnctifle
of alchemy. The premises were snbsaqnently used as an inn, and upon the site was built the fizst
Gsrltou Hoass.
" The Mall," in St. James'a-park, not many yean since, was commonly regarded as
the place where the game of '* Fbille-maille " was first played in England, and whence
the Park -avenue was said to have taken its name. Stratt calls it " the game of MaU,**
and thus favours the ahove notion ; but, in Hatton's " spacious street" we have preserved
the entire name of the game. Charles II. caused the Mall in the Park to be made for
playing the game, whidi was a fiuhionable amusement in his reign ; but it was intro>
duoed into England much earlier, and was not pUyed in the Park until the orig^inal alky
had grown into a street, and taken the name of the game itself. Blount^ in his Giotto-
graphy,eA\i, 1670, says^ *'this game was heretofore used in the long alley near St. James*^
and vulgarly called Ptall MalL" The name, however, occurs much earlier; for King
James I., in his JBanlieon Dor<m, recommends "Palle Malle" as a field-game for the
use of his eldest son. Prince Henry ; proving the Mall in the present street to have
existed as early as the reign of the above King. In a crown survey* referred to by
Mr. Cunninghiun, we find "Pell Mell Close," partly planted with apple-trees (Appletree-
yard, St. James's-square, still exists) : and in the above document are also named 140
elm-trees, standing on both sides of PftU Mall walk ; Faithorne's phm, 1658, diows
a row of trees on the north ride ; and the name of Pall Mall, as a street^ occars in the
rate-books of St. Martin's-in-the-Fields under the year 1656. The name is derived
from Falla, a ball ; and Ma^Ua, a mallet ; the implements with which the game was
played. In 1854 were found in the roof of the house of Mr. B. L. VuUiamy, :Nol 6S,
Pall Mall, a box containing four pidrs of the mailes, or mallets, and one baU, such as
were formerly used for playing the game upon the rite of the above house. Each
maile is 4 feet in length, and is made of lance-wood ; the head is slightly curred, and
measures outwardly 6^ inches, the inner curve being 4^ inches, the diameter of the
maile-ends is 2| inches, each shod with a thin iron hoop : the handlei, which is yeiy
elastic^ is bound with white leather to the breadth of two hands, and terminated with
a coUar of jagged leather. The ball, is of box wood, 2^ indies in diameter. A pair
of mailes and a ball are now in the British Museum. Mr. Vulliamy was bom in the
above house, and died here in January, 1854^ aged 74 years ; and here his fiunilj lived
before him for 130 years, thus carrying us beyond the date of Pepys seeing PaiUe
Maille first played. The VuUiamys were clockmakers to the Sovereign in fLve reigns.
B. L. Vulliamy, the scientific horologist, who died as above, bequeathed his large and
yery valuable collection of works on Horology to the Institution of Civil Engineers.
At the house of his very old friend, Mr. Vulliamy, died Professor Rigaud, the astro-
nomer, March 16, 1839.
In the reign of Charles 11. Pall Mall was occarionally called Catharine-street.
Faithorne's Plan, 1658, shows a row of trees on the north ride. Pepys mentions, in
1660, an old tavern, *' Wood's at the Pell MeU." In 1662 was fought here the duel
between Mr. Jermyn and Capt. Thomas Howard, the latter wearing mail under his
dress. The JLondon Gazette of 1685 has an advertisement address. " the Sugar-loaf in
the Pall Mall." Dr. Sydenham died here, in 1689, at his house next The CMden
Fesile and Mortars which sig^ remained to our day, on the north side of the street.
Another olden sign. The Oolden Ball, lasted to our time; but The Golden Door and
The Barbette Pole disappeared. Of Sydenham's reridenoe here, Cunningham relates
an anecdote told by Mr. Fox to Mr. Rogers — ^that Sydenham was ritting at his window,
looking on the Mall, with his pipe in his mouth, and a silver tankard before him, when
a fellow made a snatch at the tankard and ran off with it. Nor was he overtaken
(said Fox) before he got among the bushes in Bond-street, where they lost him.
At the comer of St. Alban's-street lived Gilray, the caricaturist, when asristant to
PALL MALL, 637
Holland, the printseller. In a hoose opposite Market-lane, the '* Royal Academy of
Art*' met, from the time of their obtuning the patronage of George III. until thdr
removal to Somerset House, in 1771.
Among the coffee-houses of Pall Mall was the Smyrna, of the days of the Tatler and
Spectator; where subscriptions were taken in by Thomson for publishing his Seasons,
&c. At the Star and Garter Tavern, at a meeting of the Nottinghamshire Club,
Jan. 26, 1765, arose the dispute between Lord Byron and his relation and neighbour
Mr. Chaworth, as to which had the most game on his estates : they fought with swords
across the dining-table, by the light of one tallow candle, when Mr. Chaworth was run
throagb the body, and died next day. Lord Byron was tried before his peers in Westminster
Hall, and found guilty of manslaughter ; but claiming the benefit of the statute of
Edward VI., he was discharged on payment of his fees. In the same house (the Star
and Garter), Winsor made his gas-lighting experiments; he lighted the street wall in
1807. {See Gas-liohtiwg, p. 371.) In the old Star and Garter house was exhibited,
in 1815, the Waterloo Museum of portraits, battle-scenes, and arms. At the Queen's
Arms Tavern, Lord Mohun supped with his second on the two nights preceding his fatal
doel with the Duke of Hamilton, in Hyde Park. At the King's Arms met the Liberty
or Rump-steak Club of Peers, in opposition to Sir Robert Walpole. Almaclcs
Gaming Clvh was on the site of No. 50, and is described at page 240.
Nearly opposite the south-west comer of the Opera-house, " Tliomas Thynne, Esq.,
on Sunday (Feb. 12, 1681), was barbarously shot with a muskatoon in his coach, and
died next day." The instigator was Count Eonigsmarck, in hopes of gaining Lady
Elizabeth Ogle, the rich heiress, to whom Thynne was either married or contracted.
Three of Thynne's ruffians were tried at the Old Bailey, found guilty, and hanged at
the spot whereon the murder was committed. Borosky, "who did the murther," wa«
hung in chains beyond Mile End Town : the Count was tried as an accessory, but was
acquitted. The assassination is sculptured upon Thynne's monument' in Westminster
Abbey. Pftll Mall had early its notable sights and amusements. In 1701 were shown
here models of William the Third's Palaces at Loo and Hundstaerdike, " brought over
by outlandish men," with Curiosities disposed of " on public raffling-days." In 1733,
" a holland smock,- a cap, checked stockings, and laced shoes," were run for by four
women in the afternoon, in Pall Mall ; and one of its residents, the High Constable of
Westminster, gave a prize laced hat to be run for by five men, which created so much
riot and mischief that the magistrates " issued precepts to prevent future runs to tho
very man most active in promoting them." Here lodged George P^manazer, when
he passed for an islander of Formosa, and invented a language which baffled the
philologists of Europe. ' Here lived Joseph Clark, the posture-master, celebrated for per-
sonating deformities : now deceiving, by feigned dislocated vertebrsB, the great surgeon,
Moulins ; then perplexing a tailor's measure with counterfeit humps and high shoulders.
At the Chinese Gallery was exhibited, in 1825, ** the Living Skeleton" (Anatomic
Vivante), Claude Ambroise Seurat, a native of Troyes, in Cliampagne, 28 years old.
His health was good, but his skin resembled parchment, and his ribs could be counted,
and handled like pieces of cane : he was shown nude, except about the loins; the arm,
from the shoulder to the elbow, was like an ivory German flute; the legs were straight,
and the feet well formed. (See Hone's Sverg-dag Sook,) At No. 59, Salter spent
five years in painting his great picture of the Waterloo Banquet at Apsley House,
engraved for Alderman Moon. At No. 121, Campanari exhibited his Etruscan and
Greek Antiquities, in rooms fitted up as the Chambers of Tombs. In apartments at
No. 120, Captain Marryat wrote his Poor Jack.
Nell Gwyn lived in 1670, "on the east end, north side;" and from 1671 to her
death, in 1687, in a house on the south side, with a garden towards the Park ; and
it was upon a mount in this garden that " the impudent comedian " stood, to hold
her familiar discourse with Charles II., who stood " on y* green walk " under the
wall. The scene, as described by Evelyn, has been cleverly painted by Mr. £. M.
Ward, R.A. The site of Nell's house is now occupied by No. 79, Society for the
Propagation of the Gospel in Foreign Parts.
" Nelly at first had only a lease of the house, which as soon as she diicovered, she returned the con-
fOi^anoe to the King, with a remark characteristie of her wit, and of the monarch to whom it was ad-
638 CURIOSITIES OF LONDON.
dnawd. The Kinw auoyed the Joke, and perhftpe admitted ite trath : ao the Konae in Pall MaB —
oouTcred Jrt to Nell and her representatiTei for ever. The truth of the atory is confirmed bj tki
fut, that the honae which oocnpiet the site of the one in which she lired. now No. 79. ia the oclj *nt-
hold on the aooth or Park side of Pall Mall." (Cnnnlngrham'a Nell Owj/n, p. 115.) Mr. Cmmiiigkas
adds : " No entrr of the grant is to he fonnd in the Land BeTonue Record Office."
A relic of NeU Qwrn, her lookinfr-glaaa, is preaerred in the Visitors' Dinin^r-room of the Ansj sad
N»T7 Clab-hooae, in' Pall Mall. The glaaa waa booght with Lord De Madias honae, which na
taken down for tiLa Clab-hooae site.
EfiEtward of Nell Gwyn's lived Sir William Temple, and the Hon. Bobert Bojk, «d
Bnbb Doding^n; and on the south side. Doctor Barrow, and Lady Soath^k, tbe
celebrated Countess of De (Jrammont's Memoirs. In Marlborough Hoiue lived the
great Duke of Marborough {see p. 652) ; and in a house in front of the nuinsioa
Sir Bobert Walpole. Of Schomberg House, Nos. 81. and 82, built for the great Doke
of Schomberg, the centre and the west wing remain. {See p. 449.)
Dr. Graham's " Goddess of Health," who figured here, was a laidy named Frescott
Mr. Cos^tiy, B.A., the next tenant of Schomberg House, was the fashionable miniature-
painter of his day ; and here his accompliBhed wife, Maria Cosway (also a painter), gave
her musical parties, the Prince of Wales being a frequent visitor. Mrs. Cosway made
a pilgrimage to Loretto, wliich sbe had vowed to do if blesed with a living diild.
(Notes and Queries, No. 147.) At Schomberg House was first concocted the dramatie
scheme of "The Beggars' Opera."
In the Mall, in 1689, resided *' the Lady Griffin, who was seized for having treason*
able letters put into fiilse bottoms of two large brandy-bottles, in the first year of his
majesty's reign." De Foe characterizes Pall Mall, in 1703, as " the ordinary residence
of all strangers, because of its vidnity to the Queen's palace, the Park, the Parliament-
house, the theatres, and the chocolate and coffee bouses, where the best company fre-
quent." Gay thus celebrates the modish street in his time :
" O bear me to the paths of fair Pall Mnll !
9afe are thy pareroenta, grateftU is thy amell I
At diatanoe rolls the gilded coach.
Nor atardy carmeu ou thy walks encroach ;
No lets would bar thr ways were chairs deny'd.
The Bofb supports of lazinesa and pride;
ShoiM hrentne perfumes, through aaahes ribbons glow.
The mutual arms of ladies and the beau."— Triina, book U.
Strype describes P^l Mall as "a fine long street," with garden-houses on the
south side, many with raised mounts, and prospects of the King's garden and St
James's Park. In gay bachelor^s chambers in Pall Mall lived Beau Fielding, Steele's
** Orlando the Fair ;" here he was married to a supposed lady of fortune, brought to
him in a mourning-coach and widow's weeds, which led to his trial for bigamy, f^eld-
ing's namesake places Nightingale and Tom Jones in Pall Mall, when they leave the
lodgings of Mrs. Miller in Bond-street. LsBtitia Klkington, for a short time, kept
here a pamphlet and print shop. At the sign of " Tulle's Head," Bobert Dodsley,
formerly a footman, with the profits of a volume of his poems and a comedy (pablished
through the kindness of Pope), opened a shop in 1735 ; and here he published his
Annual Register, Economy of Human Life, and Sterne's Tristram Shandy. Dodsler
retired in 1759 ; but his brother James, his partner, continued the business mitil his
death in 1797 ; he is buried in St. James's Church, Rccadilly. " Tull/s Head " was
the resort of Pope, Chesterfield, Lyttleton, Shenstone, Johnson, and Glover ; Horace
Walpole, the Wartons, and Edmund Burke. Walpole writes of 1786, a period when
robberies in capitals appear to have been a sort of fashion — " on Jan. 7, half an honr
after eight, the mail from IVanee was robbed in Pall Mall — ^yes, in the great thorough-
fare of London, and within call of the guard at the palace. The chaise had stopped,
the harness was cut, and the portmanteau was taken out of the chaise itself. What
think you of banditti in the. heart of such a capital?"
At No. 90 died, in 1849, Mr. W. J. Denison, in his 80th year, bequeathing 2^ mil-
lions sterling : he sat in Parliament 31 years for Surrey. No. 91, Buckingham House,
was built by Soane for the Marquis of Buckingham, 1790-4. At No. 100 lived Mr.
Angerstein, whose pictures were bought for the nation, and were shown here before
their removal to the National Gallery ; and at No. &0 died Mr. Robert VemoQ. who
PANTHEON, OXFOBD'STBEET. 63^
^ueathed to the coantry his pictures of the EDglish School, which were for a short
tne exhibited here.
iNo. 50 was bnilt by Alderman Boydell as the Shakspeare Gallery, fbr his pictures
liistrative of Shakspeare, painted by West, Reynolds, Northcote, and others, and
liich were dispersed by lottery after being engpraved. In 1806 the gallery was pnr-
:iased by a committee of noblemen and gentlemen, by whom was established here the
British InslituHtm, for the exhibition of the works of Liring Artists in the spring, and
Id Masters in the autnmn. Here was exhibited Wesfs large picture (9 ft. by 14 ft.)
f Christ healing the Sick in the Temple ; bought by the British Institution for 300O
aineas, and presented to the National Gallery. Upon the house-front is a large bas-
3licf of Shakspeare attended by Poetry and Pdunting, for which Alderman Boydell
aid Banks, the sculptor, 500 guineas ; and in the hall is Banks's colossal Mourning
Lchilles, a noble work of pathos and heroic beauty. No. 53 is the 'House of the New
^ooiety of Paintere in Water-colours,
Ko. 86, the War Qfflce, was originally built fbr Edward Duke of York, brother of
reorge III., and was subsequently a Subscription Club-house, calied the Albion Hotels
bis being the first modem dub-mansion in Flail Mall, which had its ** houses for
lubbing" in Pepys's time. In the court-yard of the War Office is the bronze statue of
!jord Herbert of Lea, Secretary of State for War : sculptor, Foley, K. A. ; erected by
mblic subscription, June 1, 1867. (See Statites.) After the removal of Carlton
ilonse, in 1827, the erection of the present splenc^d club-houses in Pall Mall was cora-
aenced with the Senior United Service and the AthensBum. (See Club Hovsbb, pp. 241
ind 258.) Near Warwick-street stood Warwick House, whence the Princess Charlotte^
n 1814, escaped in a hackney-coach to the house of her mother, as vividly described
iy Lord Brougham in the Edinburgh Beview, In Warwick-street is a public-house
with the old sign of The Two Chairmen, recalling the sedans of Pfedl Mall :
" Who the footman's orrofnuice can quell.
Whose fUmbeaa ffilda the flashes of Pall Mall,
When in long rank a train of torches flame.
To light the midnight visits of the dame."— Gay's Trivia, hook ill.
Here, in 1731, were found, in digging the great sewer of Pall Mall, the fossil teetb
of an elephant, 28 feet underg^und : they are preserved in the Museum- of the Society
of Antiquaries, Somerset House.
PaUi Mall East, on the north side of Cockspur-street, contains the University
Clab-honse, described at p. 259 ; and the College of Physicians, described at p. 277.
Here also is M. C. Wyatt's equestrian statue of George III. (eee Statfeb). At
No. 4 (Harding, Lepard, and Co.) were exhibited, in 1881, the exquisite water-colour
copies made by Hilton and Derby for Lodge's Portraits of Illustrious Personages,
from pictures by Titian, Holbein, Vandyke, Mark Gerard, Zuccherp, Jansen, Retel,.
Walker, Van Somer, Honthorst^ Lely, Ant. More, Mytens, Kneller, Reynolds, Dahl,
Jarvis, Bil^, Rubens, Fleck, Juan de Pantoxa, Mirevelt^ and P. Oliver. No. 5 is
tbo OaUery of the Society of Painters in Water-colours. At No. 1, Dorset-place,
lived John Thelwall, the dassic elocutionist and dramatic lecturer, who late in life left
political agitation for the calm pursuits of literature. He was worthily characterized
by Coleridge as " intrepid, eloquent, and honest ; perhaps the only acting democrat
that is honest." Between Whitcomb-street and Charing Cross was formerly Hedge-
lane, 300 yards in length ; in the days of Charles I. a lane through the fields, and
bordered with hedges. At a low tavern in Suffolk-street, on January 30, 1736, sprung
the dnmken frolic, out of which arose " the Calves' Head Club" {see p. 573).
PANTSEON, OXFOBD-STBEET,
ABOUT one^third of a mile on the left from St. Giles's, was originally bnilt by
James Wyatt for musical promenades, and was opened January 27, 1772, when
2000 persons of rank and fashion were present. It contained fourteen rooms, exclu^ve
of the rotunda : the latter had double colonnades, ornamented with Grecian reliefs ;
and in niches at the base of the dome were statues of the heathen deities, Britannia,
and George III. and Queen Charlotte. Walpole described it as '* the new winter
Ranelagh," with pillars of artificial $iaUo antico, and with cfltUngs and panels painted
T
640 CURIOSITIES OF LONDON.
from Raphael's loggias in the Vatican. In the first winter here were assemUies witb-
oat mosic or dancing ; and the building was exhibited at &«. each person ! In 1TS3,
Delpini, the clown, got up a masquerade here, to celebrate the Prince of Wales's ittiji-
ing his majority ; tickets three guineas each. Next year Garrick was pre§ent tt i
masquerade here as King of the Gipsies. Gibbon was also a frequenter of its gaj
bachelors' masque f^tes. In 1784, also, the " Commemoration of Handel" wu per-
formed here, when the King, Queen, and Royal Family were present. The Fantbeos
was next converted into a theatre for the Italian Opera company in 1791, tfa« or-
chestra including Giardini, La Motte, Cramer, Fischer, Crosdil, and Cenretto.
The Pantheon was burnt down January 14, 1792 : Turner painted the conflsfn-
lion, which he exhibited at the Royal Academy two years after he became an exhibit?
Tlie loss by the fire was stated at 80,000/. The Pantheon was rebuilt in ITSS.
Wyatt's entrance-front in Oxford-street and in Poland-street being retained. It w
then let as a theatre, and for exhibitions, lectures, and music The theatre vis r-
constructed in 1812, when Miss Stephens (subsequently Countess of Essex), first ap-
peared in London here as a concert-singer ; and first appeared on the stage, at Coreer
Garden Theatre, in 1818. In 1814 a patent wras sought from P&rliament to open the
Pantheon with the regular drama ; but the application failed. In 1832 the propertr
was sold for 16,0002. : the premises are freehold, except the Oxford-street fmA, w\ad
is leasehold. In 1835 the premises were remodelled by Sydney Smirke^ A.R~4., «^
opened as a Bazaar. (See p. 41.) The building was, in 1867, closed, to be converttv
into a Wine l>ep6t. Spa Fields Chapel, in ClerkenweU* was originally built is
imitation of the West-end Pantheon.
PANCUA8, ST„
ORIGINALLY a solitary village " in the fields," north of London, and one mile fioa
Holbom Bars, b the most extensiye parish in Middlesex, being 18 miles in dnm-
ference. It is a prebendal manor, and was included in the land granted by Ethelber:
to St. Paul's Cathedral alwut 603 ; it was a parish before the Conquest, and is calla^
St. Pancras in Domesday. The history of its church, which Norden thought "odts
yield in antiquitie to Paules in London," is narrated at pp. 193-4. The prebendarf of
St. Pancras was anciently confessor to the Bishop of London : in the list are Lanoelot
Andrewes, Bishop of Winchester; Dr. Sherlock, and Archdeacon Paley. Lysons sap-
poses it to have included the prebendal manor of Kentish Town, or Camtelows,* wludi
now constitutes a stall in St. P&ul's Cathedral. The church has about 70 acres of
land attached to it^ which were demised in 1641 at 102. reserved rent; and beio^
subsequently leased to Mr. William Agar, are now the ute of A^ar Town, In Donui-
day, Walter, a canon of St. Paul's, holds one hide at Pftncras, which is supposed to
form the freehold estate of Lord Somers, on which Somere Tbwn is bnilt.
St. Pancras' parish contained, in 1251, only 40 houses; in 1508 the church stood
« all alone," and in 1745 only 3 houses had been bnilt near it. In 1766 the popolanoo
was not 600 ; in 1801, 36.000;
Hoaaet. Inhabitants.
1821 9,406 71.838
1841 16,668 129.968
1861 18.684 166,696
1861 21,928 198,882
A return shows that the single parish of St. Pancras was assessed in 1862, to tbejvc-
perty tax under Schedule A, the schedule for the annual value of land Qnduding ^
houses built upon it, the railways, &c.), at 3,798,5212. This is the most populous p*-
rish in the metropolis : it includes one-third of the hamlet of Highgate, with the bfloh
lets of Kentish-town, Battle-bridge, Camden Town, Somers Town, to the foot cf
Gra/s-Inn-huie : also part of a house in Queen-square " (L^sons), all TottenbiiD'
cornet-road, and the ftreets west of Cleveland-street and Rathbone-plaoe.
Stukelcy affirmed tLe sfte of the old church to have been occupied by a Bomtf
encampment (Cssar's), of which he has published a plan (IHnerarium Curiosum, 17&S);
and the neighbouring JSriU of Somers Town Stukeley traces to a contraction of Barj
* Anciently Kenteflstoane, where William Bmgee, Garter Kinff-at-srms in the leJgn of Henrr ^-i ^
a country-house^ at which he entertained the Emperor Slglsmond.
PABI8 QABDEN. 641
or Borgh HiD, a Saxon name for a fortified place on an elevated nte ; following Camden
in his illostration of the village of Brill in Buckinghamshire.
At BaUle-hridge^ in 1842, was discovered a Boman inscription attesting the great
hattlo between the Britons nnder Boadioea, and the Bomans nnder Snetonios PanUnns,
to have been fooght on this spot.
The faiaoHption bears disttncUj the letton lio. zx. (the twentieth legion), one of the Ibnr which
eame into Britain in the reign of Qaodios; and the Texulation of which wae in the armj of Saetonioa
Paolinos, when he made that victorioas stand in a fortiHed pass, with a forest in his rear, against the
insurgent BritiMis. The position is described by Tacitns. On the high ground above Battle-oridge are
vestiges of Boman works ; and tlie tract of land to the north was formerly a forest. The versdty of the
following passsge of the historian is therefore tal^J confirmed;— "Deligitqne locnm artls fisodbus, et a
ter(^ sinri elaasnm; satis cognito^ nihil hostinm nisi In fronte, et apertom planitiem esse sine meta
inndiaram.** He ftirther tells os, that the force of Snetonios wss composed of ** qnartadeoima legio^
coin vnillatiis tienimami§, et e proximis anziliarea." (TaeU. Attnak lib. xiv.) So that* almost to tiie
letter, the place of this memorable engagement seems, by the discovery of the sbove inscription to be
sscertaineo.
In Ben Jonson's play, the Thle of a Thtb, the characters move about in the fields
near Pancridge (St. Pancras) ; Totten-oonrt is a mansion in the fields ; a robbery is pre-
tended to be committed "in the ways over the country " between Kentish Town and
Hampstead Heath; and a warrant is granted by a ** Marribone " justice.
St. Ptoneras had formerly its mineral springs, which were much resorted to.
Near the old churchyard, in the yard of a house, is the once celebrated St. PancrasT
Well, slightiy cathartic St. Chad's Well, in Chray's-Inn-road, has a similar property ;
and the Hampstead Wells and Walks were given in 1698 to trustees for the benefit of
the poor. The Hampstead Water was formerly sold in flasks in London.
In St. Pbncras are the Termini of the two largest Bailways in England : the North-
western, Eustcn-square; and the Great Northern at King's Croea, 46 acres. The name of
King's Cross dates firom the aocesnon of George IV., when the streets were commenced
building on the ground known as Battie-bridge, then in ill repute, and subsequently
changed to the xoyal designation. In a house in Montgomery's nursery-gardens, the
site of the north nde of Euston-square, lived Dr. Woloot (Peter Pifidar), the satirist.
The vicarage was valued at 28/. in 1650 ; it is rated in the King's books at 9/. j and
at this time is stated at 17002. St. Pbncras Churches, Old and New, are described at
pp. 193-194. Under the beUry of the old church was interred privately, in a grave
14 feet deep, the body of Earl Ferrers, executed at Tyburn in 1760.
The Cemetery for St. Pancras^ 87 acres (being the first extra-mural bnrial-gppound
for the metropolis, by Act 16 and 16 Victoria, cap. 86), was commenced in 1853, on
" Horse-shoe Farm," in the Finchley-road, about 4} miles from St. Pancras Work*
house, and 2 miles from the extreme northern boundary of the parish. St. Patterae
Workhouee often contains upwards of 1200 persons, equal to the population of a large
village. The excellent Female Charity School in the Hampstead-road dates from 1776.
In the northern nart of the parish, between Kentish Town and Haversto(^ Hill, is Gospd Oak Field,
traditionally said to oe the spot where the Goqiel was first preadked in this kingdom ; the site is Inclosed
^ a wooden railing containing the bonndary stone <tf St. nncras and the a^joming parish of St. John's,
Hampstead. When Wicklifb sttended the dtation at St Paul's Cathedral, he is stid to have freqneutly
preacned nnder this tree; at the Bdbrmation, from under its branches were promulgated the doo-
after. the tree died; and when a yoong tree was planted in its plsoe, it ss often was kiUod. However,
tlie lite was msrked; and within memory, it was the practice^ when beating the bounds of the parish, to
regale the children, when the Vicar of Ine parish attended, and offered npprsyer. There are seven
ehnrches of St. Pancras in Englsnd, snother In France, another In Giesien in Hesie Darmstadt ; another,
indeed many, in Italy, one celebrated chnrch in Bome itseiH— See Tk» lAft a$td 2^smc of St, Fanaroe*
tiines of Protestantism; and here Whitefield preached nearly three oentnries later. Some thirty yesrs
itice^
ded,
lothe
indeed many, in Italy, one celebrated chnrch in Bome itseiH— See Th* lAft and XimM of 8t. Famoroe,
By Edward White. 2nd edit. 1860.
Although the Midland Rulway has cut through Gospel Oak Reld, here are edifices
in keeping with the ancient religious assodations of the place. Here is St. Martin^
a carefully finished specimen of the Third Pointed, or Perpendicular stylo ; St. Andrew's,
in the Fixvt Pointed, and somewhat Byzantine ; a Congregational Chapel, of some archi-
tectural character ; a^ a large Ronum Catholic Convent. Here, too, is the Birkbeck
School, built in phioe of the School removed for the Bailway.
PARIS GABDJSN,
A PORTION of the manor of that name on the Bankmde, and so called from Robert de
Paris^ who had a house and grounds there, in the reign of Richard II., and " who,
T T
612 0UEI081TIJBS OF LOIWON.
hj prodamatioii ordained that the batcheni of LoDdon ihoald boy that garden fcr n-
oeipt of the garbage and entnils of beaata; to the end the Citj might not be annoyed
thereby."— Bloonf a Olouoffraphia, e^t. 1681.
This manor waa given to the monaatery of Bermondaey in 1113, and Bobert de
Faria mnit haye been a le«ee nnder the Abbot of Bermondaey. In 15S7» the manor
waa conyeyed to Henry YIII. ; and Queen Eliabeth, in the twentieth year of bcr
reign, granted the manor in exchange, to Heory Carey, Lord Honadon. It was sob-
aeqnenUy held by Thomaa Cure, aaddler to the Qoeen, and foander of the Almahoostt
in Sonthwark which bear hia name ; and laatly by Ridiard Tayemer and William
Angell, dtiaena. The moated manor-honae waa called SoUandTt Lsagmtr^ from
Shidcerly Marmion'a latirical tract on thia honae and ita inmates, entitled ** Holland's
Leagaer, or a IMaoonrse on the life and actions of Donna Brittannia Hollandia, the
Arch-mistress of the wicked Women of Utopia " (4to^ 1632). It had aoooeeded the
atews of Bankside as a public brothel, and in the reigna of James I. and Charles I.
was a fiuhionable resort. A rude wood-cut of the house, with a draw-bridge crossiog
the moat, is prefixed to the tract. The site of the house and garden is partly occupied
by the present Holland street^ and PeUatt's Glaas-house occupies part of tiie nte of
the Falcon theatre, and la named therefrom. In 1670, the manor of Paris Qardea was
constituted the parish of Christchurch, and a church built thereon, rebuilt 1738. In
1867, the Metropolitan Board of Works took a portion of the manor, fbr which they
paid 600^ Paris Garden had its theatre, to be described under Thbairbs.
"There is, or used to be, aditch or dyke rimningaiaNes(}reatSiirrey-ftreet,Blackfrier»«Dad,hat Ar
some few yein past it hss been ooTered or built upon. All bnlldinn toereon are rat^ieet to a groond*
rent, psTable to the Steward of the Manor of ' Old Paris Qarden,' and collected half-yeiuiy.*'— ilTate <iai
Omtm^ No. 166, 1864
TARK8.
THE Parks baye been well denominated by an amiable statesman (Windham), " the
lungs of London;" for they are essential to the healthfhl respiration of its inba-
Intents. There are fourteen Boyal Parka and Pleasure-grounds in or about London ; the
parks being those of Batteraea, Buahy, Greenwich, Hampton Courts Kennington,
Kensington, Begenfs, Bachmond, St. James's, (}reen, Hyde, and Victoria; and the
pleasure-grounds of Hampton Court and Kew. The grounds of the Hospital aiKi
Military Asylum at Chelsea, with Holyrood Park and Longford Biyer, are alao indoded
nnder Uie aboye heading, the total estimate of charges connected with winch amoant«,
for the finandal year 1867-8» to 125.326^. Of thia sum, 5095£. are pud to the
Banger's departments of Greenwich, Bichmond, St James's, Green, and Hyde Parks ;
the grounds of the Hospital and Military A^lum at Chelsea coetuig 1704Z. Tbo
income deriyed from the Boyal Parka ia about 6000^ per annum« and ia paid to the
Consolidated Fund.
Albxbt, or FnrBBUBY Pabk, equidistant from Begent and Victoria Parks, is to
commence at Highbury Cresoent» passing along the right ndeof Holloway and Homsey
roads to the Seyen Sisters'-road, and Indudi^ all the space of fields to the west of
Newington Gh^en ; afterwards inclining towards the New Biyer, which it is proposed to
cross north of the Horae-shoe* excluding the Junction Bailway, and extending to the
bottom of Highbury Groye, completing the enclosure of 800 acres.
BATTSBSiii Pabk oonasted, prior to its formation, of small T^mmn^ Lands, in lieu of
which a Tjammas Hall has beoi erected in Battersea. In 1846, ita oonyeraion into a
park waa decided by Act of Parliament. Before it waa fit eyen to walk upon it was
necessary to raise the entire surfiM». Fortunately, about this time the London Docks
(Victoria) Extcnuon were commenced. It was requisite to excayate and remove
thence to a distance immense quantities of earth, which were gladly received at
Battersca-fields; and from this and other sources not less than 1,000,000 cubic yards
of earth haye been deposited on this site. This occupied seyeral years, and the actual
formation of the park could not be commenced till 1856 : the drives^ walks, and orna-
mental Udce were then laid out and formed; the planting began in 1857. Large
quantities of earth were deposited and formed into nnduUting mounds and banksy and
I
PABK8. 643
Beveral acr«8 were thvs reclaimed along the banks of the river. These deporits of earth
were well adapted to the growth of trees and shrubs, which oon^st of the choicest kinds
of both, and this park contains one of the richest collections in or near London. About
200 acres are here appropriated to ornamental and recreative purposes — viz., grass
surfkce, 100 acres; water, 20; and shrubberies, plantations, drives, and walks,. 80.
Aboat 34 acres have been prepared for cricket, in match-groonds and practice-ground
for schools, and for organized dubs. Other large open spaces are used for the drill
and exercises of the troops stationed at Chelsea New Barracksi, as also of various
Volunteer corpse and the district Police. Portions are set apart for trap-ball, roimdera^
and other games; and when the cricket season terminates football is commenced.
The lake is an artificial one^ and is fed partly from the river Thames and partly by a
steam-engine^ fixed for the purpose of supplying the park with water for the lodges^
drinking fountunsi, roads, flower-beds, Ac The depth of the water is too shaUow for
bathing, being only 2^ foot deep. The lake^ however, is exteosiYely used for boating.
The peninsula, comprising an area of 5} acres, is hud out in the EngUsh landscape
style, combining a series of mounds with gentle sbpes^ between which are pic-
tnresque vistas. Nearly at its centre there is a reservoir, which is excavated below
the level of the neighbouring springs. The water from this self-supplied source is as
clear as crystal; it is pumped into an elevated tank which holds 20,000 gallons, fit>m
which aro laid service pipes for the supply of the park. A horse-ride has been formed
about 40ft. wide; and the South-eastern portion of the park is appropriated as a
gymnasium and playground.
HereiiUiA Snb-Tropiesl Garden, neorly 4 seres In extent. Here is a bed of eslsdiam esonlentnm*
from the West Indiei^ with big leaves not to be mstohed in Knglsnd. Anstnliea tree feras throw oos
thdr giaoefol learee ss Inxnziantlj ss though thej were still under gkee. The Indis-nibber plant is
growing in great nroAulon. Soil the Banana and the enrioaa Indian shot pbmt. Farther on we ooma
to the Tvlegated Croton, and the beanllftal eearlet ft)li^n of the Dragon*e-blood tTM
Here ie a troiiiesl plant, the Oanns llmbat^ which bravely contendfl with the rigoore of an English winter*
Among maoy others are— the large-leaved tobsooo plant; a new variety of the sogar-oane from Japan ;
the ooral tree, with its beaatifU and somstiTe flower; the Draoma nutans, drooping, combined with
upright learee; a Soothem emblem, the Palmetto palm ; the Date patan; the Bioe>peperplant of CSiina;
the r^>Tnis plant of Egrpt^ and tlie Teritable Bolnuh of the Nile. In another |«rt of the park is a
zosaiy, tne soU of whiohis well suited to the piodaotlon of the q;iieeD of the English garden.
Chei£BA Hospital Gbovvdb, on the northern bank of the Thamei^ have been relaid
out : the surfiu» has been raised on the south 4^ feet^ and elsewhere from 10 to 24 feet»
in which work, some 100,000 cuUc yards of stuff have been deposited ; an avenue of old
pollard lime-trees^ planted some 16C years ago in the centre of the g^undiB^ has been
removed by powerful machines, four or five tons of earth being taken with each tree; and
the whole of the trees have been formed into two avenuei^ and the g^unds planted with
flowering shrubs. A portion of the grounds occupying the rite on which Banelagh House
formerly stood is devoted to the private use of the inmates of the Hospital, and has been
re-formed and laid out. Here allotments are set apart for the pensioners, oonnsting of a
square rod each; and they are so successfully cultivated by some of these men, that aa
much as 102. or 11^ has been realized on one allotment. This is done chiefly by the
cultiTation of the musk plant, of which two and three crops are obtained in a season,
and for which there is an eaiy sale to hawkers.
GsESir Pask, The, GO acres in extent, a^oins St. James's Park on the north, and
extends westward to Hyde Park Comer, the line of communication being by the flne
road CotuHMum JBRU, It was formerly called Little St. James's Puric, and was reduced
in 1767, by George III., to add to the gardens of Buckingham House. At the Peace
Oommomoration, in 1814^ here was erected a vast Temple of Concord, with allegorical
paintings and illuminations and fireworks. In 1840-41 the entire Park was drained,
and the aurfaco relaid and planted; and the Deputy-Banger's Lodge, towards the
north-west comer, was then taken down. At the nortii-east comer was formerly the
Chelsea Waterworks Reservoir, reconstructed m 1829, 44 feet above Trhiity high-
water mark of the Thames, and containing 1,600,000 gallons. The Reservoir hog
bocQ filled up. This high ground commands fine views of the Norwood and Wimbledon
hills, and of the roof of the Crystal Pahuse at Sydenham.
On tho cast side of tho Park is a lino of noble mmn^nnm^ mdnding Stafford Houses
S T 2
64i CURIOSITIES OF LONDON.
Bridgewater Hodm ; and Spencer Hooee^ inth its fimal abitiiei. oommended by Sir
Willkm Cbamberk The gudene of the lerend booaei ere leased of the Crown.
Dr. Kinr rditM, that Charlat IL hsfing takn two or three tome one moniiaff in Si, Janiee*e Psrfc,
■ttcDded mly bj the Duke of Leede nd Lord Chmartr, walked vp ConstitatiaD Hill; md m the kii«
wae croMiiiff the rood into Hyde Foik, met theDokeoc Tork in hie eooch, iHimiin^ from hsntmc. The
dnk»alighted to psj hie reepeete to the kinir, end ynHfeeid Ide emriNriee to meet lue n^esty with ooch
a email attendance, eddinf that he thoimht the UiweKDoeedhimedf to eome danger. '^Noknidor
danger, Jamee; far I am sore no aun m England wiu take aw^ mj liii to make joq king," was
Charle^e reply.
In Constitution-hiU-road, near the Fdaoe* three diabolical attempts have been made
to shoot Qoeen Victoria: by a Innatic, named Oxford* Jime 10, 1840; by Frauds,
another lomitic. May SO. 1842; and by an idiot, named Hamilton, May 19, 1849. On
June 29, 1850, at the npper end of the road. Sir Bobert Fed was thrown from his
horse ; he died at lus boose in WhitehaU Gardens, on July 2.
The Arch at the entrance of the road from Hyde Fhrk Comer is a poor adaptatkm
from the Arch of Titos at Borneo and was originally deaogned as an entrance to Baddngham
Ftolace Gardens. It bears the coloanl eqoestrian statue of the Duke of Wellington.
The Green Pkrk has been greatly improved, from almost a bare field to a resort of
some pietoresqueneai and yariety. A newhorw-ride has been madei, from Bo^ingfaam
Fkkce to Stable-yard Gate, St. James's.
Htdb P^sx extends from Piccadilly westward to Kensington Chodens, and lies
between the great western and Bayswater roads. It is the site of the andent manor
of Hydei, which belonged to the monastery of St. Peter, Westminster, until it was con-
veyed to Henry YIII. in 1536, soon after whidi a keeper of the park is mentioned.
In 1550 the French Ambassador hunted here; and in 1678 the Duke Gammir shot a
doe from amongst 300 other deer in Hyde Park. In 1652 the Park was sold by order
of Fku-liament, for 17,000Z.; the deer bdng valued, in addition, at 7652. 6#. 2d.
The park then contained 620 acres, and extended eastward to Park-lane, and on the
west ahnost to the front of Kensington Palace : it is described in the indenture of sale
as "that impaled ground called Hyde Park;'* but, with the exception of Tyburn
meadow, the enclosure for the deer, the old lodge at Hyde Park Comer, and the
Banqueting House, the park was left in a state of nature ; and De Grammont describes it
as a barn-field in the time of Charles IL Ben Jonson mentions its great spring show
of coaches; Brome names its races, horse and foot; and in Shirley's play of Syde
Park, 1637, is the scene of a race in the park between an Irish and English footman.
After the sale by Parliament^ tolls were levied.
"llth kprii, 16S3.— I went to take the aire in Hide Park, when every ooach wae made to par a
ahllUng, and every horse eizpenee, by the eordid fellow (Anthony Deane^ c^ St. MartinVin-the-Fleul^
leq.) who had porcbae'd it of the State, as th^ were oall'd."— JBm^
The park does not appear to have been thrown open to the public until the time of
Charles I., and then not indiscriminately.
IntheC»aro0^^.BNy2Mi,ie6O,itlsdeecribedas*'afiddneartfaetown,wUch theyoaH Hide
Faik; the place not onpleaeant, and which they nee as our oonrae; bat with nothing of that oraot^
equipage, m. tplendonr; being such an aaeembly of wretched jades and hackn^'Coachee^ ai^ next a
regiment of oarrmen, there ia nothing approaches the reaemblanoe. This parke waa, It aeema. oaed by
the late king and nobility for the freumess oftbe air and the goodly prospect; bat it ia that whidi now
(beddM all ottier exerdacs) they pay for here in England, though to be free in all the world besides;
every coach and horse which enters bvgring hli moutmU and pemiasion of the pablicane who haa pQr>
chaaed it, for which the entrance ia guarded with porters and long staves."
At the Restoration, Mr. Hamilton was appoined Banger of the park, which he let
fai fitfms until 1670, when it was enclosed with a wall, and re-stocked with deer.
Befireshments were thus early sold; Ibr 25th April, 1669, Pepys carried his pretty
wife to the lodge, and there in their coach ate a cheesecake, and drank a tankard olf
milk. De G^mmont describes the promenade as " the rendezvous of finhion and
beauty. Every one, therefore, who had either sparkling eyes or a splendid equipage
constantly repured thither ; and the king (Charles II.) seemed pleased with the place."
Maying was a favourite custom here : May 1, 1661, Evelyn '* went to Hyde Park to
take the air; where was his Majesty and an innumerable appearance of gallants and
rich coaches, bdng now the time of universal festivity and joy." Even in the Puritan
times. May (1654) " was more observed by people going a-maying than for divers years
past; and, indeed, much nn committed by wicked meetinga^ with fiddlers^ drunkenness
PAMK8, 645
ribaldry, and the like. Great retort came to Hyde Park, many hondredfl of coacheiy
and gallants in attire: bnt most sbameftd powdered-bair men, and painted and
spotted women." A few days after, the Lcnrd Protector and many of bis Pri^y
Conncil witnessed in Hyde Park "a bowling of a great ball by fifty Cornish
gentlemen of one side, and fifty of the other; one party playing in red capa; and the
other in white. The ball they played withal was silver, and designed for that party
which did win the goal." Evelyn, in May, 1658, " went to see a coach-race in Hyde
Park ;" and Pepys, August, 1660, " To Hyde P&rk by ooach, and saw a fine foot-raoe
three times ronud the park." Here a strange accident happened to Cromwell in 1664:
"The Duke of Holftein made him (Cromwell) a present of a let of ffaj Frietland coach-honee; with
which, taking the air in the park, attended only with his secretaiy, Tonrloe. and a guard of Janizaries
he would needf take the place of the coachman, and not content with thor ordinary pace, he lashed
them Te^ ftoionsly. Bat they, onaccnstomed to each a rough driver, ran awav in a rage, and stopped
not till they had thrown him out of the box, with which (Ul nil pistol fired in his pocket, thoo^ with-
out any hurt to himself; hy which he might liave been instructed how dangerous it was to meodle with
those Uiings wherein he had no ezperienoe."— XfiMUov.
Cromwell was partial to Hyde Park here Synderoombe and Cedll lay wait to
assassinate him, when "the hixiges of Hyde Pftrk gate were filed off, in order to their
escape." The Sing was, from all time previous to tiie Restoration till far in the reigns
of the Gorges, the fitfhionable hannt. It was sitoated to the north of the present
Serpentine* and part of the Banger's grounds cover its mte; some of the old trees
remain, with a few of the oaks traditionally sud to have been planted by Charles 11.
Near the ring was the lodge caUed the " Qrave Prince Manrioe's Head," and in later
times the " Cake honse ;" a slight stream ran before it ; and the boose, approached by
planks, presented a very pictoresqne appearance : it is engraved in the Ghntleman*%
Magatine for 1801.
Eemewa have, for nearly two centuries, been fiivourite spectecles in Hyde Park. At
the Restoration, during a splendid show, the Lord Mayor received notice that " Colonel
John Lambert was carried by the park a prisoner into WhitohalL"
Pepys "did itand" at another review in 186^ when Charles II. was present^ whUe "the hone and
foot maroh by and disdiarge their guns, to show a French marquisse (for whom this muster was cansed)
the goodneeee of otir firemen ; which, indeed, was very good, uoogh not without a slip now and then ;
and one broadside dose to our ooach as we had going out of the parke, even to the nearenesae to be ready
to bum our hairs. Tei mtOkowkt alHM«$e pay mm are woitiu tolditrt that wmH do tkt Hmtt bmnneu,
|^^j7 Mdt M than Oat lo$t €kt old king aU ho had, and wtro heai tf tko moH ordinary JUIomi that
The Militia review by George II. in 1759, the Volunteers by George III., and the
encampment of the troops after Lord George Gordon's Riots in 1780, also belong to
the military shows of Hyde Ptok. Here George III. inspected the Volunteers on his
Inrth-day, June 4th, for several years : in 1800 the troops numbered 15,000. In August^
1814^ were held in this park the Regent's Fdto and Fair, when a mimic sea-fight was
exhibited on the Serpentine^ and fireworks from the wall of Kensington Gardens ; and
^^ have been held in the present century three ** Coronation Fairs," and firework
displays. Of sterner quality was the rendezvous of the Commonwealth troops in the
park during the Civil War. Essex and Lambert encamped their forces here ; and
^^'romwell reviewed his terrible Ironsides. In 1643 the citizens threw up the line of
fortification drawn round the City and suburbs^ drawn by order of P&rliament ; and one
of its strongest works, « Oliver's Mount," faced Mount-street, in Pkrk-lane. {See FoB-
^nPiOATioNS, p. 864.) Here was the celebrated " Mount" Cofibe-bouse.
Hyde Park continued with little alteration, till, in 1705, nearly SO acres were
^l^ded to Kensington Gardens, by Queen Anne ; and nearly 800 acres by Caroline^
^een of George II. (see Kbhsivgton Gabdens, p. 493), by whose order also, in
1730-8, was formed the Serpentine River. The Park has also been reduced by grante
of land, between Hyde Park Comer and Park-lane, for building ; and according to a
Bvvey taken m 1790, ito extent was 894 acres 2 roods 38 poles. In 1766, John
Gwynne, the architect, proposed to build in Hyde Park a royal palace for George III. ;
^d in 1825, a Member of Parliament pubUshed a magnificent design for a palace
near Stanhope Gate.
Permission to " vend victuals " in Hyde PSrk was granted by George II. to a {nloi
who saved him from wreck in one of his voyages from visiting his Hanoverian domi-
^oqs; and it is steted that the pUot's desoendanto to this day exerdse the privilegs.
646 CUBIOSITIES OF LONDON.
At the same time the King gare his deliverer a silver-gilt ring, which bears the arms
of PqUbcI impaled with thoae of Lithuania, smrmoonted by a regal crown. This ring
was exhibited to the British Archnological Aasodation, Feb. 9, 1853.
The Conduils of Hyde Park are described at p. 289. Upon the east nde, 70 feet
above Trinity high-water mark of the Thames» was the Chelsea Waterworks Reservoir,
which contained about 1,500,000 gallons : the iron railing and dwarf wall were added
to prevent suiddes, which were formerly frequent here. The reservoir has been
emptied, and the site laid out as a sunk garden, with much taste; here is a classic
drinking fountain ; A. Munro^ sculptor. Upon the east side was Walmui-tree Walk,
shaded by two rows of noble walnut-trees, extended to a large circle ; these trees
were cut down about 1800, and the wood was used by Government fbr the stocks of
soldiers' muskets.
The colossal statue near the south-east comer of the park, cast by Sir R. Westma-
cott, B.A., from twelve 24-pounders, weighing upwards of 30 tons^ is about 18 feet
high, and occupies a granite pedestal, bearing this inscription : " To Arthur Duke of
Wellington, and lus brave companions in arms^ this statue of Achilles, cast from
cannon taken in the battles of Salamanca, Yittoria, Toulouse, and Waterloo, is in-
scribed by thdr countrywomen." On the base is inscribed : ** Placed on this spot on
the 18th day of June, 1822, by command of his Majesty George IV." The figure is
oopied firom one of the antique statues on the Monte Gavallo at Bome, and is most
improperly called AchiUes ! it has never received its sword ! The cost of this monument,
10,000/., was subscribed by ladies.
Gatet. — ^The prindpal entrance is at Hyde Park Comer, through a triple-ardied
and colonnaded screen, derigned by Dedmus Burton : eastward is Apdey House, nearly
upon the site of which stood the old lodge of the park. In Park-lane is Stanhope-
gate, opened about 1750; and Grosvenor-gate, in 1724, by subscription of the neigh-
bouring inhabitants. Cumberland-gate* at the west end of Oxford-street^ was opoied
about 1744-5, at the expense of the inhabitants of Cumberland-place and the n^h-
bourhood ; it was a mean brick arch, with mde entrances : here took place a disgraoeiul
contest between the people and the soldiery at the fhneral of Queen Caroline* Augmt
15, 1821, when two persons were killed by shots from the Horse-guards on duty. In
1822; the unsightly brick and wooden gate was removed ; and handsome iron gates
were substituted, at the cost of nearly 2000/., by Mr. Henry Philip Hope, of Noriblk-
streety Park-lane. In 1851 these gates were removed for the marble arch from Buck-
ingham Palace, and placed on each ride of it ; the cost of removing the arch and re-
building it being 4840/. (See Abchss, p. 21.) In the Bayswater-road is Victoria-
gate : nearly opposite is the handsome terrace, Hyde-Park-gardens. Upon the south
side of the park are the Kensington-gate ; the Prince of Wales's-gate, near the site of
the Half-way House ; and Albeort-gate, Knightsbridge.
jRotten JRofD, on the south ado of the park, extends about 1^ mile from the lodge
at Hyde Park Corner to the Kensington-gate : it is for saddle-horses, who can gallop
over its fine loose gravel without danger from falling ; and it is crowded with eques-
trians between 5 and 7 p.ic., during the high London season. The name jRoUe» is
traced to rotteran, to muster; which military ori^n may refer to the park during the
Civil War; but the derivation is disputed. Between Botten-row and the Queen's
Drive was erected the Building for the Great Exhibition of 1851 :
''Bat yesterday a naked sod.
The dimdies sneered from Botten-row,
And saontered o'er it to and tto.
And see 'tis done I
As thoogh 'twere by a wixard's rod,
A blazuig arch of lucid glass
Leaps like a fountain from the graa^
To meet the son 1
A qoiet green but few days since,
with cattle browsing in the shade.
And lo I long lines of bright aroade
In order raised;
A palace as for Adry Prince,
A rare pavilion, such as man
Saw never since mankind b^gan.
And built and glazed I"
lfay-<iqr 0*i«» by W. M. Thackeray: Timn, May 1, 1861.
PAEK8. 647
The OryskU PtUaee, as the baildiiig was appropriately so named, we beUevo, by
DoDglaa Jerrold, its roof and aides being of glaasy was designed by Mr. (subsequently
Sir Joseph) Paxton; and was constructed by Mr. (snbsecpiently Sir Charles) Fox, and
Mr. Henderson. The ground was broken July 80, 1850 ; the first oolnmn was placed
Sept. 26; and the buil^Ong was opened May 1, 1851.
It was a TSft OEponsion of a oooierfatoiy design, ballt at Ghateworth hr Mr. Paxton, tat the flower-
in? of the Victoria Lilr. The C^tal Palace was cmoifonn in plan, with a transept, nav^ and side
aisles ; oonsbthig of a framework of wrought and oast-iron, finmy braoed together, and based upon a
foandation of conorete. It was hnilt without a single soaifold-pole, a pair of shears and the Derrick crane
being the 09^ machinery need in hoisting the materials. In the pun, ereiT measorement was a mid-
tiple of 8. Tiiiu the colamns were all M Cwt higlL and 24 feet aput ; and tne centre aisle or nare was
72 feeL or 9 times 8. Again, one single area, bounded by 4 oolunns and their crowning girders, was the
type ox the whole building, which was a simple aggvmition of so many cubes, in extreme length 1851
feet, corresponding with the year of the Exhibition; width 406 feet j with an additional projection on the
north side, 936 feet long by 48 wide. The great ayennee ran east and west; rerr near the centre crossed
the transept, 72 feet high, and 106 wide. Its roof was semidroular, designed by Mr. (subeeqnently Sir
Charles) Bairy, so as to preserve three fine old elms. The other rooo, dengned by Mr. Faxton, were flat.
The entire area of thebuilding was 772,784 square feet, or about 19 acres, nearly seven times ss much as
St. Paul's Cathedral. '* The Alhambra and the Tuileriee would not have filled up the eastern and western
nave; the National Qallety would have stood beneath the transept; the palace of Versailles (the larffest
in the world) would hare extended but a Uttle wav bcrrond the transept; and a down metropolitan
churches would have stood erect under its roof of gfaes.^ (Atknunm, No. 1227.) The ground area was
divided Into a central naye, four side aisles, and sereral courts and avenues : and a nUerir ran throuc^-
out the building. There were about 3000 columns, nearly 3600 sirders, sna altooetner about 4000 tons
of iron built into the structure. The iron skeleton progressed with the framing ana glazing, requiring 20O
miles of wooden sash-bars, and 20 mfles of Faxton gutters ibr the roof; which required 17 acres of glass ;
besides which, there were UOO yertieal glaied sashes. Flooring l,00a000 square feet ; total wood-work,
600,000 cubic feet The hollow east-iron «niinnw oonveyed the rahi-iaU from the roof. The effective
ventilation was l^ kmvrO'boards.
The deeoration of the interior, devised by Owen Jonea^ consisted of the application of the primitiye
eoloon^ red, blns^ end ydlow, upon narrow surfeoes : it was charmingly artistic, and was rapijilj exe-
cuted by 600 pidnters. During the montiis of December and January, upwards of 2000 workmen were
employed ^roughout the building.
The vast Pa&oe was filled with the World's Industry : hi the western portion were the produetiona
of the United Kingdom, IndiiL and the Colonies; and the eastern, those of Foreign Countries. The
value of the whole (except the Koh-i-noor diamond) was 1,781,9202. 11«. 4d,
The openhig of the KEhibition, on May 1, 1861, was prooUumed by Queen Victoria, aooompanied by
Prince Albert^ the Prince of Wales, and the Princess Boyal. Between May 1 and Oct 11 the number of
visits paid was 6^068,966; mean daily average 43,636. On three successive days there entered 107,816,
109,916, 109,760 persons, who paid respectively 61762., 623H.. and 62832. There were counted hi the
Palace 93^000 persons at one time. Cost of the buUdinf , 176,0302. 13«. Bd, Oct 16, Jury Awards and
closing ceremonlaL The whole building was removed before the doee of 1862; and, on Nov. 7, 1863, it
was proposed to nlaoe upon tiie site a memorial of the Exhibition, to include a statue of Prince Albert*
the originator ofthls display of the Industry of all Nations.
This splendid National Memorial is now (1867) being erected in Hyde Park, as
nearly as may be, at tbe intersecting point oif central lines of the two Great Inter-
national Exbibitions (Hyde Park and Sonth Eensmgton), originated by the Prince
Consort
The design by Gilbert Soott^ BJL, though in some sense a " Memorial Cross,'*
differs widely in type from the fbrm nsnally described by that term. It is, in fiict, a
yast canopy or dunne, overshadowing a colossal statue of the personage to be comme-
morated, and itself throughout enriched with artistic illnstrations of or alluaons to
the arts and sciences fostered by the Prince, and the Tirtues which adorned his cha-
racter. The canopy or slirine wMch forms the main feature of the Memorial is raised
upon a platform approached on all sides by a vast double flight of steps, and stands
upon a basement or podium risng from ^is elevated platform to a level of about 12
feet Upon the angles of this podium stand the four great clusters of granite shafts
that support the canopy, which is itself arched on each side from these masnve pillars,
each fiice being terminated by a gable, and each angle by a lofty pinnacle; while over
all rises tkjleche or enriched spire of metal worlc, surmounted by a gemmed and floriated
cross. Beneath the canopy, and raised upon a pedestal, wiU be placed the qwui-
entbroned statue of the Prince Consort
The idea of the architect in his design of the canopy, was this : — ^The first concep-
tion was a shrine. The exquisite meUd and jewelled shrines of the 12th and 13th
centuries are nearly always ideal models of larger structures, but of structures of
which the original type never existed. Their pillars were of gold or silver-g^lt, en-
riched with wreaths of exquimte pattern-work in many-coloured enamel. Their arches,
gables, and other ardiitectural features were either chased in beautiful foliage cut in
gold or silver, or enriched with alternate plaques of enamel pattern work and of filigree
648 CTJEI08ITIE8 OF LOin>ON.
studded with gems. Their zoofs were covered with paitenis of repouate work or
enamel, and enriched with sculptured medallions; the crestings of roo& and gaU^
weregrilled with exquisite open foliage in gold or ulver, while every part was replete with
•culpture, enamel paintings^ and jewellery. The architect's um, then, was to reprodooe
in some degree at full rize the ideal structure which these wonderAil old jewdkxs
represented in model. This idea could not, of course, he literally carried oat ; but it
has determined the leading characteristics of the monument, and at least bo fiu* as the
metal-work is concerned, is being faithfully acted on, while in the more maadye puts
of the structure it cannot be carried further than to give its tone to the decorations.
Hyde Park being for the most part high and dry, is perhaps the most airy and
healthy spot in London. The north-west or deer-park, verging upon Kensington
(hardens, is even (^ n rural character : the trees are picturesque, and deer are occa-
sionally here. The Serpentine has upon its margin some lofty elms : but from other
positions of the park many fine old timber-trees have disappeared, and the famous
Sing of Charles II.'s days can be but imperfectly traced. The drives and walks
have been greatly extended and improved: for the brick wall has been substituted iron
railing ; and the opening of three gates (Victoria, Albert, and Prince of Wales), and
the Queen's Drive south of the Serpentine* denominate the improvements in the
present reign. l<Vom this high ground the artistic eye enjoys the 9ylv€m scenery of
the park; the old trees fringing the Serpentine, and its water gleaming through their
branches : backed by the rich woods of Kensington Gkirdens ; and the bold beauty of
the Surrey hills.
Among the floral improvements in Hyde Park is the promenade along the
east side, from Apsley House to the Marble Arch, where the beds of massed flowen
are beautifully effective ; and they are continued from the gates by Apsley House
down to the Serpentine. Plantations of ornamental trees are extended along the
south side, in pleasure grounds tastefully planted with shrubs and flowers. Finally,
horse-rides have been made to extend from Victoria Gate to the Magazine Barracks.
Flowers are now grown in Hyde Park, with great luocees. The first attempt was made bj ^
Beidamin Hall, in 186<t, when Chief Commisaioaer of Worka ; bat Mr. Cowper. in 1860, made a r^niar
garden of the space between Stanhope-gate and the Marble Arch, where the maraing of ooloun is rerj
aocoeaaful ; between the Marble Ardi and Kenalngton Qardens, the flowers are in patches among the
trees. The flower-beds were so suooessAil In Hyde Park that they were adopted by the side of Botten-
row, and in other parks. Pipes are laid under ground for the water-mains, and the Parisian plan 0/
hose is adopted for watering the flowers and the graaa borders.
The Serpentine (so called in distinction from the previous straight canals) is a
pool of water covering fifty acres, formed from natural springs^ and originally fed at
the Bayswater extremity by a stream from West-End, near Hampstead, and the over-
plus of certain reservoirs, one of which occupied the site of Trinity Church. In 18^
the stream, or rather sewer, at Bayswater was cut ofi*, and the defidency was made np
firom the Chelsea Waterworks. At the eastern end the Serpentine imperfectly sup-
plies an artificial cascade, formed in 1817 ; and descending into the " leg of mutton"
pond, the stream leaves Hyde Park at Albert Gate, divides the parish of Chelsea fiina
that of St. George's, Hanover-square, and falls into the Thames at Chelsea. The Ser-
pentine supplies the Knightsbridge Barracks and the Horse-guards, the lake in
Buckingham Pslace Gardens, and the ornamental water in St. James's Park. The
depth in Hyde Park varies from 1 to 40 feet, of which Sir John Kennie found, in
1849, in the deepest parts, iVom 10 to 16 feet of inky, putrid mud — " a laboratoty of
epidemic miasma." The Serpentine is deepest near the bridge : the whole sheet wis
deepened, at a cost of from 10,000^. to 20,000^ Here 200,000 persons, on an averagei
bathe annually, sometimes 12,000 on a Sunday morning ; and in severe winters the
ice is the greatest metropolitan skating-field. In 1847, pleasure-boats for hire were
introduced upon the Serpentine : the bo«t-houses are picturesque.
On the north margin The Royal Humane Society, in 1794, built thdr principal
receiving-house, upon ground presented by George III. In 1834 the house was re-
built, from the design o/S J. B. Bunning ; the first stone being laid by the late Doke of
Wellington : over the Ionic entrance is sculptured the obverse of the Society's medal,
—a boy striving to rekindle an almost extinct torch by blowing it; legend, Laied
eointillvla forean — " Perchance a spark may be concealed." In the rear are kept
PABK8, 649
boats, ladders, ropes and poles, wicker-boats, life-preserving apparatus, &c. The Royal
Humane Society was founded in l774s by Drs. Goldsmith, Heberden, Towers, Lettsom,
Hawes, and Cogan. Its recdving-honses in the parks cost 3000/. a year. In odd
contignity to the Society's Hoose in Hyde Park is the Government Magazine, oon-
taming stores of ammunition and gunpowder.
DutltfougU in Sgde Park.— Temp, Heniy YIII., the Duke of B. snd Lord B^ "near the first tree
behind the Lodse :" both kiUed.— 1712. Ilie Duke of HamUton and Lord Mohim, bo^Ji UUed.-:
1703. Wilkes and kr. 8. Martin, the hero of Churchlll'i DutUiH.—\7IQ. Baddeley, the comedian, and
OeorgeGarrick.— 1773. Mr. Whatdy and Mr. Temple.— 1780. TheEarlof ShelbiinieandCol.Fiillartan.
—1780. Bev. Mr. Bate and Mr. B.. both of the Morning Pm^.— 178S. Bev. Mr. Allen and Mr. Dalany.—
1783. Lieat.-Col. Thomas and Col. Gordon, the former killed.— 1787. Sir John Maepherson and M^or
Browne.— 1792. Meeara. Frizell and Clark^ law-stadents, the former killed.— 1796. Mr. Carpenter and
Mr. Pride (Americans), the former killed.— 1797. Col Kinff and CoL Fitzgerald, the latter kiUed.—
Lieat W. and Capt I., the latter kiUed.— 1822. The Duke of Bedford and the Doke of Bnckingham.
Near the site of the Humane Sodety's Beceiving-house formerly stood a cottage,
presented by George III. to Mrs. Sims, in consideration of her having lost six sons in
war ; the last fell with Abercrombie at Alexandria, March 21, 1801. This cottage has
been painted by Nasmyth, and engraved in the Art JowmtU, No. 59, N.S.
The Law, with regard to the Parks, according to the opinion of the law-advisers of
the Crown, Novembw, 1856, is in effect that —
There is a right to olose the gatee and ezclnde the poblio ; or, the gates being open, to exclude per-
sonii; bat tiiat^reons who have once entered cannot be tnmed oat withoot notice that the license it
withdrawn. No force, therefore, can be broaght to beu againat bodies or masses, which might contain
putDj who have not had notice. They also say that it would not be practicable to remove any number
individoally and prevent them firom returning, and remark on the probabUi^ of disorder if even an
individual were tamed out The efllDCt is that the Government have nothing out the common law of
trespass to rely upjon with its incidents, which are most important. In July, 1806, the above-mentioned
opinion was submitted to Sir W. Bovill and Sir Hoffh Caurns, who were particularly requnted to say
whether tiiere was any legal authority to disperse by force any meeting for political purposes in the Park.
Their answer was that there is no such authority for any practical purpose. They state that whai per>
sons have once entered the Park they can only be qected after notice served on or brought home to
each individually. If the assembly remain peaceable the police can do nothing but hand out man after
man. In no case can they I^pally clear the Park by a charge, and it is most Important that this should
be known. The Commisnoners of Works, spending public money, repreaent the public. The Bangers
more properly represent the Crown. All these things are importuit when we are thrown back upon the
technical law of trespass.
On July 23, 1866, a political meeting in Hyde Park having been forbidden by the
Home Secretary of State, and the gates being closed, nnder the direction of Sir
Bichard Mayne, Chief Commismoner of Police, the railings were torn down, and the
mob entered, and committed wanton damage to the flower-beds and shmbbedes. The
cost of the erection of new iron railings and foot-gates round Hyde Park, in the nuun
rendered necessary by the above riot, is stated at upwards of 10,000/.
KsKSTVQTOV Pase, formerly Eennington Common, which is described at p. 487,
was completed 1852-8. In laying out this little park, of 34 acres, an amalgamation
of the plan geometrical and the English styles has been adopted. It is furnished with
a gymnasium and a playground, which, in that populous neighbourhood, are in constant
use. There is likewise a handsome drinking-fountain, presented by Mr. Felix Slade^
of Lambeth, and deigned by Mr. Driver. It is constructed of polished granite, sur-
mounted by a bronze casting, which represents Hagar and Ishmael at the well. There
are two large grass enclosures in the centre of these grounds, in which a very good
plan, and one worthy of adoption elsewhere. Is pursued to preserve the turf from utter
iestmction. Different portions of the Park are closed and opened alternately to the
public Were it not for this precaution, there would not be a living blade of grass to
be seen by the end of July ; every vestige of turf would be trampled to death. The
Park is surrounded by a wrought-iron fence, backed by a privet-hedge. The area thus
encircled is only about twelve acres ; and around the lodge— which will be recognised
IS the model lodging-house of the Exhibition of 1851 — there is an effective arrange-
ment of common garden flowers in sunk panels of turf. Most of the flowers are raised
>n the spot.
PoFLAB RxcBBATiOK Gbottitds, utuated between the High-street and East India
Dock-road have been completed, by the Metropolitan Board of Works, and were
>pened in May, 1867. The grounds occupy about five acres in extent, and adjoin the
:hurchyard of St. Matthias, which occupies nearly the same area. The site waf
650 0UBI08ITIE8 OF LONDON.
purchased at a oort of 12,000/^ towardi which the Metropolitaii Board of Works obi-
tribated 6000/., and 16002. has been realized by the sale of old materiala. The re-
mainder is borrowed, and 20 years allowed fbr its repayment.
PfincBoex HiUi Pabi:, about 60 acres at the foot of Primrose HiU^ is endosed and
laid ont for cricket^ and planted with trees and shrabs, by the Commissioners of Woods
and Forests. On the south side of the hill is a fine open-air gymnasiiim» wbidi is
more frequented than any other in London.
Reoxnt'b Pabk, of 403 acres, lies between the south foot of Primrose Hm and the
New-road, and indudes " Marylebone Farm and Fields." The relaying out of the estate
was proposed in 179S, and a large premium offered for the best design ; bat it was not
until 1812 that any plan ?ras adopted — ^the plan of John Nash, architect, who built most
of the fine terraces by which it is surrounded, and proposed to connect this new port of
the town with Carlton House and St. James's : this has been effected in Regent-street^
which, with the PArk, is named from their having been projected and laid out during
the Regency of Qeoige IV. The Park is nearly circular in plan, and is comprised
within a ride, or drive of about two miles. The south nde is parallel to the Marylebone*
road ; the east side eitends northward to Gloucester-gate ; the west side to Hmnorer-
gate; and the northern curve nearly corresponds with the sweep of the Regent's
Canal, at the north-western side of which are Macdesfield-bridge and gate. In the
south-west portion of the Park is a sheet of water, in outline resembling the three
1^ on an Isle-of-Man half)[)enny ; it is crossed by wire suspension-bridges^ and has
some picturesque islets, large weepng-willowB^ shrubs, ^ There are 18 or 20 acres
of water on which boats are to be had for hire, and where angling from the banks is
permitted at all times while the gates are open. Near the southernmost point is the
rustic cottage of the Toxopholite Sodety. In the southern half of the Park are two
drdes : the Inner Cirde^ formerly Jenkins's nursery-ground, was reserved by Nash as
the mte for a palace for George IV. : it is now the gutlen of the Botanic Society (see
p. 869). On the eastern slope, at the north end of the Pftrk, is the garden of the
Zodogical Sodety. On the east mde^ a little south of Gloucester-gate, are the enclosed
villa and grounds of the Master of St. Katharine's Hospital ; the churoh and domes^
buildings are opposite. (^00 pp. 166-7.) Among the detadied villas in the Park are the
Holme, in the centre, built by William Burton, architect ; St. John's Lodge (Sir Francis
Henry Goldsmid's), acfjoinlngthe Inner Circle; St. Dunstan's Villa, and Holford Houses
on the Outer Road; and near Hanover-gate is Hanover Lodge, formerly the Eari of
Dnndonald's. The portico of St. Dunstan's Villa is adapted from the Temple of tbe
Winds at Athens : the roof is Venetian ; and in a recess near the entrance are the two
gigantic wooden figures, with dubs and bells, from old St. Dunstan's Church, Fleet-
street (m9 p. 160) : they were purchased by the late Marquis of Hertford for 2002.
At the south-east comer of the Park is the Diorama building, converted into a Baptist
chapel in 1854; beyond is the Colosseum, described at pp. 280-3. On the south, east*
and north-west sides of the P&rk are highly-embellished terraces of housefly in which
the Doric and Ionic, the Corinthian, and even the Tuscan, orders have been employed
with ornate effect, aided by architectural sculpture. In the Inner Cirde, adjooning
South Villa, is the Ohtervatory, erected in 1887 by Mr. George Bishop, F.R.S.»
F.R.A.S. It consists of a drcular equatorial room, with a dome roof; and an aim
containing the altitude and azimuth instrument, micrometers, &c.
The Ayeone, an area of foar aares, at tUe eonth end of the Broad WallL has been laid out m flower
Srdens. Here the flowers are grouped in ribanda, arranged with an aitufa eje to cdoor, the ««•
tiona of allTer-white, orange, purple, and aoarlet aeem designed to prodaoe a pTiamatle e^t.
Initead of being mixed with other colours, the Tellow oaloeoUffia is massed here snd Uiere. The shzubs
and foliase plants grow hi sreat Inznrianoe. Nearly all the former are flowering shroba. TIm spe*
dmens of yucca recurva ana the standard hoUiea— green, golden, and sUvcr, on straight stems— are
espeoially noticeable. The wini SapptA of the garden is a large taoa filled with flowers, and supparted
by four griffins. This is placed in the centre of a large curbed bed, and thirty smaller tasaaa and vasea
are grouped in difi^Brent parts of the garden. There are fine beds of foliage plauts, aueh aa the castor^
oil plant, the Ferdinandia eminens, Canns, and CenUnrea. The flowering ahrubs are endosed by a
hornbeam hedge, trained as a trellis. A few Lombanly poplars, with their silvery flidcera, taresk the
monotony, and add neatly to the apparent extent of the narrow strip of ground. In the summer the
flowers and shrubs, flanked by the norse-chestnuts in ftill blossom and the fine dma, make a gloriooa
ahow. Here is a not uupietnresque red-brick gardener's cottage s and there have been added two
lbuntaina--one near Gloucester-gate, and the other in the middle of the Broad Walk, tiie raaoe round
the latter beaatiAiUy laid out wfth fSK^a^-^Mndgtdftom the Timm,
PABK8. 651
Unlike the other parks, this contains witlun its bonndaiieB seyeral handsome private
residences, snrroanded hy picturesque pleasure grounds. Each of the two elder parki
is completely surrounded hy houses^ so that in one case we have 1000, and in another
nearly 500 acres of trees* grassi, and flowers in the interior of our immense metropolis
just as are the squares in other cities and towns.
SouTHWABK Paex.— The Metropolitan Board, after eight years' deliheration, por-
cdiased the land for this new Park, at ahout 911/. per acre. The site ccnslBts of 65
acres of land in the parish of Botherhithe, hounded hy Jamaica Level, Union-road, the
Kotherhithe Kew-road, and the South-Eutem Bailway. Of the 65 acres, only 45
are devoted to the purposes of the Park : the remainder heing appropriated to
building plots, and ia road to encircle the Ftok.
St. Jaxbs'b Faxk is in plan an irregpilar triangle^ in form resemhling a hoy^a
kite^ eighty-three acres in extent. It was originally a swampy field attached to
St. James's Hospital : the ground was drained and enclosed hy Henry YIII., who
thus made it the pleasure-ground hoth of the Hospital — which he had converted into
St. James's Pfedaoe-Hmd of Whitehall, whose tilt-yard, cockpit, tennia^x>urt, and howling-
green were on the eastern verge of the Park ; but during the reigns of Elizabeth and
the first two Stoarts it was little more than a nursery for deer, and an appendage to
the tilt-yard. A procession of 15,000 citizens, " hendes wifflers and other awayters,**
on May 8, 1589, passed " rounde about the Parke of St. James." In the reign of
Charles I. a sort of royal menagerie took the place of the deer with which the
** inward park*' was stodced in the days of Henry and Elizabeth. Charles, as bo
walked through the Park to Whitehall on the fiital January 80, 1648-9, is said to
have pointed to a tree which had been planted by his brother. Prince Henry, near
Spring Gardens. Here Cromwell, as he walked with Whitelock, asked him, ** What if a
man ^ould take upon him to be king ?" to which the memorialist replied : " I think
that remedy would be worse than the disease." Evelyn, in his Sylva, mentions the
branchy walk of elms in the Park, " intermingling their reverend tresses."
Charles II. added tlurty-idz acres to the Park, extended the wall towards Pall
Mall, had it planted by Le NAtre, and, it is b^ieved, by Dr. Morison, formerly
employed by the Duke oi Orleans. The ori^pnal account for " workes and services" ia
signed by Charles himself. Pepys and Evelyn record the progress of the works :-^
"16 Sept 1060. To the Pwk, where I um how fta thev had proceeded hi the Pell MeD, tad la
nuiking a river through the Pftrk." ** 11 Oet. 1660. To walk in St Jamee't Park, where we obeerved
the MTeral engines at work to draw up water." '* 4 Aug. 166L Walked faito 8t Jamee'a Park, and
there found gnat and very noble alteranons.** " 87 July, 1661. I to walke In the Parke, whidh ia now
every d^r more and more pleaaant hj the new worke upon tt." "1 Deo. 1668. Over the Parke, where
1 fimt in my life, it being a great firoat, did aee people sliding with their skeatea, which ia a very pretty
art." ** 16 Dec. 1668. To the Duke (of York), and followed him into the Parke, where, though &e ice
waa broken and dangeroni^ yet he would go sUde upon his scales, which I did not like ; bat he sUdsa
Tety well." " 11 Aug. 1664 This day, for a wafer, before the klnff, mv lords of Castlehaven and Arran*
a son of my Lord of Ormontf a, they two alone dla run down and kill a itont buck in St James's Park."—
J>Myff. ** 19 Feb. 1666-7. In the afternoon I saw a wrestling match for lOOOL in St Jamea's Park,
beiore hia Maty, a world of lords, and other apeotatora, 'twixt the Western and Northern men. Mr.
Secretary Morice and Le Gerard betaig the Jnogea. The Western men won. Many greate sums wen
betted."— l^^yn.
The courtly Waller commemorates the Park^ "as lately improved hy his Majesty/'
1661. Faithome's plan, taken soon after the Restoration, shows the north half of
the parade occupied hy a square endosnre, surrounded hy twenty-one trees, with one
tree in the centre ; and in the lower part of the parade broad running water, with a
bridge of two ardies in the middle. Later views show the Park with long rows of
young elm and lime trees, fenced with palings» and occasionally relieved hy some floe
picturesque old trees.
The MaU, on the north side, a vista half a mile in length, was named from the
game of " pale maille" played here : it was a smooth hollow walk planted on each
aide» and having an iron hoop suspended from the arm of a high pole, through which
ring the hall was struck by a maille, or mallet. (See a drawing, temp. Charles IL,
engraved in Smith's AnHquUies of Westminsier, and a plate in Carter's Wewtmintter.}
Here Charles and his courtiers often played : the earth was mixed with powdered
cockle-shells to make it hind; "which, however," says Pepys, "in dry weaUier tnme
to dust^ and deads the hall." (See the account of the game, at p. 636.)
C62 CUBI08ITIE8 OF LONDON.
"i April, 1661. To Bt Jamei's Park, whera I saw tUe Duke of York playing at paU-mall, th« fat
time that I ever saw the sport." — P«fif t.
Gibber teHs us that here he had often seen Charles phiying with his dogs and
feeding his ducks, which made the common people adore him.
The Bird'COffe Walk, on the south side of the Park, nearly in the same line as
the road which still retains the name, had in Charles II.'s time the cages of aa
aviary disposed among the trees which bordered it. The keeper of ihe Talarj, or
Aviary, was Edward Storey, from whom or his house is named Storey** Q-aie^ The
carriage-road between this and Buckingham Qate was, until 1828, only open to the
Boyal Family, and the Hereditary Grand Falconer, the Duke of St. Albans.
In the " inward park" was made a formal Candl^ 2800 feet in length and 100
feet broad, running from the Pftrade to Buckingham House. On the south of this
canal, near its east end, was the Decoff, a triangular nexus of smaller «Mwa^«^ where
water-fowl were kept. Within the channels of the Decoy was Duck ZBlamd, of
which Sir John Flock and St. Evremond were, in succession, appointed govemon
(with a salary) by Charles II. ; and Queen Caroline is said to have given tiie nnecnre
to the thresher-poet, Stephen Duck : *' the island itself" says Pennant, " is lost in the
late improvements."
The Park, as well as the Palace, sheltered persons fhim arrest ; for, in 1632, John
Perkins, a constable, was imprisoned for serving the Lord Chief-Justice's warrant upon
John Beard in St. James's Park. To draw a sword in the Pftrk was also a very serious
offence. Congreve, in his Old Bachelor, makes Bluffe say, ** My blood rises at that
fellow. I can't stay where he is ; and I must not draw in the Park" Traitoroos
expresdons, when uttered in St. James's Park, were punished more severely. Francis
Heat was whipped, in I7l7> from Charing Cross to the upper end of the Haymarket,
fined ten groats, and ordered a month's imprisonment, for saying aloud in St. James's
Park, " Qod save King James IIL, and send him a long and properous rdgn !*' and, in
1718, a soldier was whipped in the Park for drinking a health to the Duke of Ormond
and Dr. Sacheverell, and for saying " he hoped soon to wear his right master's doth."
The Duke of Whartou, too^ was seized by the guard in St. James's Park for singing
the Jacobite air, " The king shall have his own again." See Cunningham's Samdbook,
p. 260; where are printed, from the Letter-book of the Lord Steward's Offioe, two
letters, dated 1677, sent with two lunatics to Bethlehem : Deborah Lyddal, for offering
to throw a stone at the queen ; and Richard Harris, for throwing an orange at the
king, in St. James's Park.
Evelyn thus records the introduction of skating : — ''Dec. 1, 1662. Having seene
the strange and wonderful dexterity of the sliders on the new canal in St. James's
Park, performed before their Majesties by divers gentlemen and others* with scfaeets
after the manner of the Hollanders, with what swiftness as they pass, how snddainly
they stop in full career upon the ice, I went home." Some of the cavaliers had, pro-
bably, acquired the art when seeking to while away a Dutch winter ; and but for the
temporary overthrow of the monarchy, we should not thus early have had skating in
England. The Park soon became a resort for all classes, since^ in 1683, the Duke of
York records, Dec 4 (a very hard frost), " This morning the boys began to slide upon
the canal in the Park."
Evelyn, in 1664^ went to "the Physique Gfarden in St. James'^," where he first saw
^orange-trees and other fine trees." He enumerates in the menagerie, "an ornocra-
tylus, or pelican ; a fowle between a storke and a swan ; a mdaocholy water>fowl,
brought from Astracan by the Russian ambassador ; a milk-white raven ; two Balearian
cranes," one of which had a wooden leg " made by a soulder :" there were also ** deere
of severall countries, white, spotted like leopards ; antelopes, an elk, red deer, roebucks,
staggs, Guinea goates, Arabian sheepe, &c." There were " withy-potts, or nest^ for
the wild fowle to lay their eggs in, a little above y" surface of y* water."
" 26 Feb. 1664. This night I walk'd Into St. James his Parke, where I saw many strange oreatiurefl, si
divers sorts of oaUandlsh deer, Goiny sheep, a white raven, a great parrot, a storke. . . . Here aie
very stately walkes set with lime trees on both sides, and a fine pallmalL"— Jotmial ^ Jfr. JL
«0» qfSir Thoma* Bromme.
Evelyn, on March 2, 1671, attended Charles through St. James's PUrk, where he
saw and heard " a familiar discourse between the King and Mrs. Nelly, as they called
an impudent comedian; she looking out of her garden on a terrace at the top, and the
PABK8, 653
King standing on the green walk under it" " Of the mount, or raised terrace, on
which Nelly stood, a portion may still be seen under the park-wall of Marlborough
House." (Cunningbun's NeU Owyn, p. 118.) In the royal garden where Charles
stood, and which was then the northern boundajry of the Faric, we find Master Pepys,
in his Diarjf, stealing apples like a schoolboy. Pepys also portrays a court cavalcade
in the Fftrl^ all flaunting with feathers, in which Charles appears between the Countess
of Castlemaine and the Queen, and Mrs. Stewart.
Succeeding kings allowed the people the privilege of walking in the Mall ; and the
passage from Spring .Gardens was opened in 1699 by permission of King William.
Qoeen Caroline, however, talked of shutting up the Park, and converting it into a
noble garden for St. James's Palace : she asked Walpole what it might probably cost ;
who replied, " Only three crowng." Dean Swift^ who often walked here with the
poets Prior and Bowe, writes of skating as a novelty to Stella, in 1711 : " Delicious
walking weather," says he ; ** and the Canal and Rosamond's Pond full of rabble
sliding, and with skaitts, if yon know what it is." The gloomy Rosamond's Pond, of
oblong shape, and overhung by the trees of the Long Avenue, is mentioned in a g^rant
of Henry YIII. It occurs as a place of assignation in the comedies of Otway, Con-
greve, Farquhar, Southern, and CoUey Cibber ; and Pope calls it " Rosamonda's Iiake."
Its name is referred to the frequency of love-suicides committed here. The pond was
filled up in 1770, when the gate into Petty France was opened for bringing in the soil
to fill up the pond and the upper part of the canal. Hogarth painted a large view and
a cabinet view of Rosamond's Pond : for the latter he received but \U 7<f., the rec^pt in
the handwriting of Mrs. Hogarth. In a bouse belonging to the Crown, at the south*
east comer of Rosamond's Pond, was bom George Colman the Younger, who describes
the snow-white tents of the Guards, who were encamped in the Park during the Riots
of 1780. The Wellington Barracks, built near the site of Rosamond's Pond, were
first occupied by troops on March 1, 1814 ; the Military Chapel was opened May 1, 1838.
The trees have been thinned by various means. Dxyden records, by a violent wind,
Febmary 7, 1698-9 : " The graat trees in St. James's Park are many of them torn up
from the roots, as they were before Oliver Cromwell's death, and the late Queen's."
The unifbrmil^ of Bird-cage Walk has been spoiled by the new road. Samouelle, in his
Compendium of Sntomologff, figures a destructive moth *' found in July, in St. James's
Park, against trees."
St. James's Park was a fiivourite resort of Goldsmith, and is thus characterized by
him:—
"If a msn be splenstie, he may every day meet oompaDions on the aeati in St. Jamei's Puk, with
whose groaiu he mav mix Us own. and pathetically talk of the weather." (JCtMjr*.) The etn^ng
player takes a waUi m St. James's Fork, " abont the hoar at which company leave it to go to dinner.
There were but few in Um walks} and those who stayed, seemed by their looks raUier more willing to
forget that th^ had an appetite^ tium gain on6." {Euag:) And dinnerless. Jack Spindle mends his
appetite by a walk in the Park.
After the death of Charles II., St. James's P^rk ceased to be the fiivourite haunt of
the Sovereign, but it continued to be the promenade of the people ; and here^ in the
summer, till early in the present century, gay company walked for one or two hours
after dinner; but the evening dinner robbed the Park of this charm, and the Mall
became prin<npally a tboroughfiire for busy passengers.
** Ht spiritB sank, and a tear started into my eyM, as I brought to mind those crowds of heautr, rank,
and fiuhlon, which, till within the«e few years, osed to be displayed in the centre Mall of this Park on
Smiday eveningB dnring the spring and summer. How often in mj yonth had I been a delighted speo-
tator of the enchanted and enchanting assemblage I Here used to promenade, for one or two hours
after dnner, the whole British world of gaiety, beautT, and splmdour. Here could be seen in one
moving mass, extending the whole length of the Mall, 6000 of the most lovely women in this country of
female beauty, all splendidly attired, and accompanied by ae many well-dressed men. What a change,
I exdaimed, has a few years wrought in these once happy and cheerftil personages. How many of those
who on thia very spot then delighted my eyes, are now mouldering in the silent grave!"— Sir Bichard
Phillips's Moniwf* WoUkfrvm London to Kw, 1817.
For the Peace Commemoration F6te, on August 1, 181^ the Mall and Bird-cage
Walk were lighted with Chinese lanterns; a Chinese bridge and seven-storied pagoda
were erected across the canal : they were illuminated with lamps, and fireworks were
discharged from them, which set fire to the pagoda, and burnt its three upper stories,
when two persons lost their lives. Canova, when asked what struck him most forcibly
during his visit to England, is said to have replied, " that the trumpery Chinese bridge
d54 CUEI08ITIE8 OF LONDON.
in Si. Jamei's Fftik tfaonld be the prodoctioa of tbe govemmenty whilst tbat of Water-
loo was the work of a priTate compeny." — QuarUrlif Semew.
The SUde^Paper Cjffhe, iiirther aoath, oocapying pert of the site of tlie hoose of
Lord ChenoeUor JefBreys, was built by Sir John Soene in 1833 : it was liis latest work,
and resembled an Italian palaso : it was taken down for the site of the new Fobeigi
AKD IxsiA OniGSS. At No. 11, Doke-rtreet, died in 1849, aged 81, Sir Moxc Iflam-
bard Bronel, the engineer of the Thames TnnneL
Upon the loath side of the Paik, too^ is Milton's garden-boose^ in Petty Fraaee.
HszUtt lived in this house in 1818, when Haydon was one of a christening^party of
''Charles Lamb and his poor nster, and all sorts of odd derer people, in a lar^ge room,
wainscoted and andent^ where Milton bad meditated." (Haydon's AMtobioyrapiif,
w6L i. p. 211.) In the garden*wall is a doorway, now blocked op^ but wliich oaoe
opened into the Park, and was probably that nsed by Milton in pasei]^ fiom lua baaae
to WhitehalL In Qaeen-sqoare-plaoe, and looking upon the gardan-gTOond of ICltoo'i
boose, was the hoose of Jeremy Bentluun, who died here in 1882.
The hints for supplanting the forest*trees which skirt the I^srk, by flowerii^ shrebfi,
and dresnng the ground in a gayer style, so as to convert even the gloomy alleys of
St. Jame^s Fuk into a lively and agreeable promenade^ were first puWiahed in' ** A
Letter to the Bt. Hon. Sir Charles Long,** &<%, 1825.
In 1827 was commenced the relaying out of the inner Park. Thestraight canal was
alteredandextendedtoawindinglake, with islands of evergreens: at the west end vas
a fountain. The borders of the principal walk are planted with 0veiigreen% which are
aoientifically labelled; some of the fine old elms remain. The glimpses of grand ardii-
tsetorsl djeots firom this Pvk are very striking^ and indude the towers of Westminster
Abbey and the new Houses of Psriiament ; theeztennvefirontof Buddngfaam Palace;
the York Column, rising from between terraces of mansions; and the Horee-Gnanfa^
tcnninating the picturesque vista of the lake; although the ornamental eflect is spoiled
by an ugly engineering bridge. Upon the eastern idand is the Swiss eottage of the
Qniithok}gical Society, built in 1841 with a grant of 800^ from the Lords of the Tiea-
anry : the design is by J. B. Watson* and contains a conncil-roooi, keeper^s apartments^
steam-batching apparatus ; contiguous are feeding-plaoes and decoys ; and the aqna^
fowl breed on the island, making their own nests among the shrubs and graasee. In
1849 an experimental crop of Forty-day Maize (from the l^yreneos) was saooeasfiiilly
grown and ripened in this Perk. For the priviUigo of forming tfao chair% 26L is paid
annually to the office of Woods and Forests.
The fine old trees of the grounds of Carlton House formerly overhung tibe road by
the paric-wall, now the site <MP the Psstum-Doric substructure of Carlton-house-terraoe;
the opening in which to the York Column was formed by command of William IV., as
bad been the Spring Garden gate by William III. Milk JVar, leftward <^ this gate^
commemorated by Tom Brown, in 1700, has disappeared. The vista of the Mall,
which consists <^ elms, limes, and planes, is terminated by the grand front of Buck-
ingham Palace.
On the Parade is the immense mortar east at Seville by order of Napoleon, employed
by Marshal Soult at t^ siege of Cadis in 1812, and abandoned by tiie Frendi army in
their retreat from Salamanca: it was presented by the Spanish Cortes to the Prince
Begent. The gun-metal bed and carriage were cast at Woolwich in 181^ and eonsist
of a crouching dragon, with upraised wings and scorpion-tail, involving the tnmnious;
it is allegorical of the monster Qeiyon, destroyed by Hercules. The mortar itsdf is 8
foet long, 12 inches diameter in bore, and bas thrown shells 8^ miles: it wdgfas
about 5 tons. On the pedestal are inaoriptions in Latin and Engluih- When Soolt was
in England, in 1838, he good-humouredly recognisod his lost gun. Hore was also for-
merly a small piece of artillery which bad been token from Bonaparto at Waterloo.
Upon the Parade was marshalled the State Funeral Prooesmon of the groat Doko of
Wellington, November 18, 1852. The body was removed from Chelsea Hospital <m
the prerious midnight^ and deposited in the Audience-Chamber at the Horao-Gnaids.
Beneath a tent upon the Parade-ground was stationed the Funeral Car, whereon the
coffin being placed, and the command given, tho corUge, in slow and solomn splendour,
moved down the Mall past Buckingham Palacci, whence tho proccssiaa was seen by
Her Majesty and the Boyal Family.
PARLIAMENT H0U8E8. 665
ViCTOXiA Pask, Befihnal-green, equal to the entire area of EenBiDg^ii Gardeiu^
originated as follows : — In the 4th and 6th years of Her present Migesty's reigu, an
Act was paaed to enable the Comtnisrioners of Woods and Forests to complete the sale
of York Hoase» and to purchase with the proceeds a Boyal Park. The Dnke of Suther-
land paid 72»0002. for the remainder of the lease of York House, and this money waa
applied to the purchase of about 290 acres of land, dtuated in the parishes of St John,
Hackney; St. Matthew, Bethnal-green ; and St. Mary, Stratford-le-Bow, county of
Middlesex. Nearly one-third of the acreage mentioned is taken for building ground;
the rest is ^^ctoria Ptok. Its site had been previously market-gardens and brickfields.
The ornamental lake is made over the rough brickfield, near to which stood Bishop
Bonner's famous haU. The Ptok is bounded on the north side by Hackney; on the
south by Sir G. Ducketfs Canal, runiung nearly east and west ; and on the west by the
Begenfs Canal. It is divided into two portions— the Ornamental or West Park, and
the East Pbrk. In the former there is an ornamental lake about ten acres of surface^
with three islands. Here boats are hired out ; and there are waterfowl of various
kinds. On the south-west ride of the lake there is a fine avenue of elm trees, with a
carriage-drive and shady walks ; and an arcade, fbmished with seats. On the north*
west end of the lake is a walk odled " The Yale," which is planted with choice trees,
shrubs, and flowers. Close adjacent are the greenhouses and pits for raising and
wintering the phnts. In this portion of the Ptark there are several separate flower-
gardens, riband borders 800 yards long, and mixed flower-beds. The East Park is used
for games^ and contains two bathing lakesy which are well supplied with water. These
are mudi frequented; as many as 7000 persons often bathe here in one morning. The
extent of these two lakes is about six acres. At the extreme end of the PArk is the
cricket-grooiid, of 86 or 40 acres. Here 00 or 80 wickets are often pitched on
Saturdays. About one-thbd of the way throxigh the Park is the superb Victoria
Brinking-fountain, presented by Miss Burdett Contts, described at page 368 ; and, to
add to the means aflbrded for public exercise and recreation, there is a gymnarinm, as
there are also swings and merry-go-rounds. The Pbrk has often 80,000 visitcnrs in a
ringle day. Wednesday afternoon is the children's day. In the neighbourhood has
been swept away a wretched village of hovels, once known as Botany Bay, from so
many of its. inhabitants being sent to the real place. Formerly this Park was on
Sundays the great resort of controverrialists, especially such as believe in all manner of
unbelief and who attracted here congregations of difoent persuasions ; but the preach-
ing of so many of them bang language of the most blasphemous description, in 1866,
all preaching here was forbidden by authority.
In fine weather, when the band playe^ over 100,000 pereons are freqnenflj collected In this Purk.
The people ue orderly, moat of them beinff of the hnmbler cUnea, and their appreciation of the flowers
la quite as keen as that of frequenters of the Weat^nd parka. Some of the Spltalfielda weavera have a
great fimdneu for flowera. and contrive aomehow or other In the moat milikeljr plaoea to rear very
choioe yaxieUea. In amalL wretched-Iookinff yards, where little air and only the mid-day aon can
peneteate, yoo may ace natooea of garden, eviaently tended with mioommon care, and yielding to their
coltiTatora a fldr reward in fragrance and in hloaaom. Some of the weavers even manage by bita of
wnen they can make np a Dutnday booquet lor aome friend <» relation. The flowers in tne netghbonnng
park, with their novel gronplng and alrlking oontraata of coloor, are, of ooorae. a continiial faad of
pleaaore to theae poor artiaana, and gladden many a moment when pCThapa worK. la not too plenUfhl
and home tbonghn are not very h^^py* la Vlctwia Park the plants and flowera are labelled in letters
d, without need of getting over ieD
ig and the bathing go on la devoted i
almoat oomflned to East London; and here on a aommer evening, when a eap-ftall of wind la to be had,
which ho who walka may read, without need of getting over fence or bordering. A amalkr lake than
that in whiflh the boating and the bathing go on la devoted to yacht-eailing. Thia amuaement aeema
you may aee the lake whitened by forty or tittj toy boata and f achta, of all riga and alsea, while here and
there a ministore ateamboat la pnfling and panting. There la even a yacht-dub whoee membera com-
pete with their toy-yaehta for allver cops and other prises. The ezpenae of keeping up a yacht here Is
not considerable, and the whole aquac&on may be laid up until wanted in a boathouse provided for Uie
nurpoae. But tne matches and truUa of theae tlnr craft are a apedal attraction of the Park, and draw
together every evening hundreda of people. Ample apace ia avmlable for cricket; and in the two gym-
naala candidatsa for swinging, Jumpmg, and oliinoing appear to be never wanting.— IVaMa, ArpteiMar,
1861.
rAMLIAMEN'T MOUSES, TEE,
STTLED also ''Kew Westminster Palace," occupy the site of the Boyal Palace of
the monarehs of England, firom Edward the Confessor to Queen Elizabeth.
656 CUBI08ITIES OF LONDON.
WeHminHer Palace is flnt named in a charter of Edward the Confeawr, " made*
•oon after 1052 : here the Confenor died, Jan. 14, 1066. On the Easter flaoe«&^
King Harold came here from York. William the Norman held councils here ; and ii
1069 Alfric, Abhot of Peterhoroogh, was tried before the king t* emrid at West-
minsfcer* — this bong one of the first records of the holding of a UmD-comrt on ^is
spot. William RnAis added the Ghreai Mall, wherein he held his ooort in 1099; v
did slso Henrj L Stephen founded the palace chapel, which waa dedicated to St
Stephen. In the reign of Henry II., Fitzstephen records : " on the west, and on t^
bank of the river, Uie Royal Palace exalts its head, and stretches wide, an incom-
parable stmctnre, ftimished with bastions and a breastwork, at the distanee of tvo
miles from the City.** The Close BoUs, in the Tower of London, contain maaj
corioQs entries concerning the palace in the time of John and Hemy III. : hen^
in a great coondl, Henry confirmed the Magna Charta and the Charta de Foresta: in
his reign, also, the gibbet was remored from the palace. In 1238 the whole palace
was flcoded by the Thames, and boats were afloat in the Great HalL There are
numerous records in this rogn of painting and decorating the palace^ storing its
cellars with wine, &c. {See Paihtid Chambsb, p. 625.) Of the repairs of ti^
mews, the new buttery and kitchen, and the rebuilding and punting of 81. Siepiet^t
Chapel, in the reign of Edward I., there are minute accounts. In 1298 the palaee
was nearly destroyed by fire, but was restored by Edward II. St. Stephen'a Cfaapd
was completed by Edwud III. The poet Chaucer was clerk of the palace works in
the rdgn of Richard II., who rebuilt Westminster Hall nearly as we now see it. la
1612 a great part of the palace was " once again burnt, since whidi time it has ncrs
been re-^ified : only the Great Hall, with the offices near adjmning, are kept in good
repairs ; and it serreth, as before it did, for feasts at coronations, arraignments of
great persons charged with treasons, keeping of the courts of justice, &^ ; hat the
princes have been lodged in other palaces about the City, as at Baynard'a Oastle^ at
Bridewell, and Whitehall (sometimes called Tork Phice), and sometimes at St. James's."'
(Strype's Stew's Londtm, vol. u. p. 628, edit. 1755.) Some buildings were added by
Henry VIIL, who is supposed to have built the Star Chamber; a porticm of which,
however, bore the date 1602. Parliaments were held in Westminster Hall temp.
Henry III., and thenceforth in the Painted Chamber and White Chamber. After the
Soppresaon, the Commons sat in St. Stephen's Chapel, until its destruction bj fire
Oct. 16, 1834, with the House of Lords, and the sorrounding Parliamentary bmldingi.
The scene of the conflagration was painted by J. M. W. Turner, R.A.
The demesne of the Old Palace was bounded on the east by the river Thames ; on
the north by the Woolstaple, now Bridge-street ; on the west by the predncta of St.
Margaret's Church and Westminster Abbey, behind Abingdon>street ; and on the
south by the line of the present College-street, where formerly ran a stream^ called
the Great Ditch (now a sewer), outride the palace garden-wall.
Among the more ancient buildings which existed to our time^ was tiie Painted
Chamber, Next was the Old Souse of Lorde (the old Parliament Chamber), inbuilt
by Henry II. on the foundations of Edward the Confessor's rdgn ; the waDs were
nearly seven feet thick, and the vaults (Guy Fawkes' cellar) had been the kitchen of
the Old Palace : this building was taken down about 1823, prior to the erection of
the Royal Gallery and Entrance, by Soane, R.A. Southward was the J¥Mce'« Chamber
(then also demolished), with foundations of Edward the Confessor's time, and a super-
structure with lancet-windows, temp. Henry III. : the walls were painted in oil with
scriptural figures, and hung with tapestry representing the birth of Queen Elizabeth.
Next was tiie Old Court of Bequeete, supposed to have been the Great Hall of the
Confessor's palace : this was, until 1834, the House of Lords, and was hung with
tapestry representing the defeat of the Spanish Armada in 1588 : it was destroyed in
the Gr»t Fire, after which the interior was refitted for the House of Commons.
The Armada Tapestrj was woven by SpSerlnr, from the dedffni of Henry ComeUiiB Tioosn, at
Haarlem, for Lord Howard of Ef&ngham, Lord Hiffh Admiral of uie Engliah fleet which eiicag«d tli«
Armada^ It was sold bT him to James I., and coudsted originally of tan compartments, wi£ borders
containing portraits of the officers of the English fleet. These hangings were engraved by Pine in 1738.
Bt. Stephen's Chapel had its beautiful architecture and sumptuous decoration hidden
PABLIAJtrBNT HOTTSES.
IBM
658 CURIOSITIES OF LONDON.
until the enlargement of the interior in 1800, when its painting, gilding, and ecvlp-
ture, its traceried and hrilliant windows, were disoovered. Among the mml pointis^
were the histories of Jonah^ Daniel, Jeremiah, Joh, Tohit, Judith, Snaannab, tnd uf
Bel and the Dragon ; the Ascension of Christ, and the Miracles and Martyrdom d
the Apostles ; and in the windows were the stories of Adam and Etc, and of Noab aod
his family, of Ahraham, Joseph, and the Israelites ; and of the Life of the Savioar,
ftom his baptism to his cmcifixion and death. Among the decorations were figures of
angels and armed knights, Edward III. and his family, and heraldic shidds. Tbe
Jewels, vestments, and furniture of the chapel were very soperb. The Clcuten were
first built in 1356, south of the chapel, on the spot subsequently called Cotton Gszdea.*
The Cfypi, or nnder^diapel of St. Stephen is described at p. 804.
On the south side, probably, was the small chapel of St. Man/ de la Fewe, at Ocr
Lady of the Pew ; wherein Richard II. offered to the Virgin, prerionaly to meeting
the insurgents under Wat T^ler in Smithfteld, in 1881. Vettmimtier JScM will be
described hereafter. Upon its western side were built the Law Courts, by Soane,
B.An upon tbe site of the old Exchequer Court, &c. On the east side of New Pal&oe-
yard was an arch, temp, Henry III., leading to tbe Thames; and the old Excheqoff
huUdings and the Star Chamber, described at p. 450. On the northern ude of Ne*
Fldace«yard, directly fronting the entrance-porch of the Grreat Hall, on a spot ssb-
sequently hidden by tbe houses on the terrace, stood the famous Cloek-iower, built and
furnished with a dock, temp, Edward I., with a fine of 800 marks leried on Oed-
Justice Sir Balph de Hingham for altering a record : the keepers of this dock-tover
were appdnted by the Soverdgn, and were paid Qd, a day at the Exchequer. Tbe
tower was taken down about 1707; and its bell, " Great Tom of Westminster,'* was
subsequently re-cast (with additional metal) for the great bell of St. Paul's CatbednL
Hatton describes the House of Commons, altered by Sir Christopher Wren, in 1706,
as " a commodious building, accommodated with several ranks of seats;, oomed witb
green doth (baize P), and matted under foot, for 613 gentlemen. On three sides of
this house are beautiful wainscot galleries, sustained hy cantaleevers, enriched with
fruit and other carved euriodties."
Of the House of Lords, in 1778, we have a portion in Copley's fine picture of the
fall of tbe great Earl of Chatham. Of the several Gates to the old palace, the onlf
one of which we have any record is that begun by Richard III. in 1484^ at the east
end of Union-street, and taken down in 1706; and a century later, in a fragment of
this gate built into a psrtition-wall, was found a capital, sculptured with William RoAs
granting a charter to Qidebertos, Abbot of Westminster : this capital was add by Hr.
Capon to Sir Gregory Page Turner, Bart., for 100 guineas. A plan of the dd paUcc^
measured 1793-1823, is engraved in Vetueta Monwnenta, vol v.; in J. T. Smith"!
AxtiquUiee qf Westminiter; and in Brayley and Britten's WettmUuter Palace, 1836;
admirably illustrated, from drawings by R. W. Billings.
For rebuilding, in 1836 was selected from 97 sets the design of Charles Banj, RX
The coffer-dam for tbe river-front was commenced 1837; the river-wall 1639;
and, on April 27, 1840, was laid the first stone, at the north end of the Speaker's
house. Tbe exterior material is fine magnedan limestone, from Anston, in Torbhire;
and Caen stone for the interior; the river-terrace is of Aberdeen granite; the vhol«
building stands on a bed of concrete 12 feet thick. The vast pile covers about eigbt
acres, and has four prindpal fronts, the eastern or river bdng 940 feet in length.
The plan oontdns 11 open quadrangles or courts, which, b^des 500 apartments
and 18 offidal residences, flank the royal state-apartments, the Houses of Lords
and Commons, and tbe great Central HalL The interior walls are fine brick; tbe
bearers of the floors are cast-iron, with brick arches turned from girder to girder;
the entire roofs are of wrought-iron covered with cast-iron pkd«s galvanized ; so tint
timber has not been used in the carcases of the entu« building; and the principle cf
making the Palace as nearly fire-proof as posdble in the roo& haa been thoroogUj
carried out.
* Sir Itobert Cotton had shoosc and garden abutting against the Pafaited Chamber; and itvtf
there that hla collection of MSS^ now in tbe British Mnaeom, waa originallj atored. In Cotton Hots'
in 1820, were lodged the Italian witnesses against Queen Caroline on her Trial.
PARLIAMENT HOUSES. 659
The New Palace is the largest pablic edifice which has been erected for several
centuries in England; and in the arrangement of its apartments tor the transaction
of public business, in its lighting, ventilation, fire-proof construction, supply of water,
&c., it is the most perfect building in Europe. The style is Tudor (ilenry VIII.),
with picturesque portions of the town-halls of the Low Countries, and three grand
features : a Clock Tower at the northern extremity, resembling that of the Town-
house at Brussels; a great Central Mall, with an open stone lantern and spire;
and the Soyal or Vletoria Tower, at the south-west angle.
In 1841 WM isroed the Fine Arts Ciomxnission for rebnildinff the Houses of Parliameat j and in 1843
the CommlMioD to superinteud the completion of the New Falaoe. Certain portions or the external
stonework havtaiff decayed, a Commiasion was iasoed to investigate the caose; competing chemical
processes were adopted as remedies by hardening or Indorating the stone, which had been injudicioosly
selected : time can only decide the merits d these processes. Tor details, see Ttar^Book ofFaeU^ 1861
and 1862.
The vast edifice covers at least twice the site of the old Palace of Westminster,
about half the new ground occupied being taken from the Thames. The East or
River Front has at the ends projecting wings, each 120 feet in length, with towers
of beautiful design, leaving between them a terrace 700 feet long, and 83 feet wide.
The entire length is 940 feet. The wing-towers have crested roofs, and open-work
pinnacles, which, with those of the bays, carry gilded vanes. Between the principal
and one-pair ikxirs is a rich band of sciUpture^ composed of the royal arms of England
in each reigpi, from William I. to Queen Victoria. The band below the principal floor
is inscribed with the date of each Sovereign's accesmon and decease; and the panels
on each side of the ooat-of-armshave sceptres and labels, with badges and inscriptions.
In the parapet of each bay is a niched figure of an angel bearing a shield. The
carved panels of the six oriel windows have the arms of Queen Victoria, to indicate
that the building was erected in her reign. The wing -towers, with their octagonal
stone pinnacles and perforated iron ornaments at their angles and crests, remind
one of the picturesque roofs of the chAteaux and belfry-towers of the Low Countries.
The North Front has bays and buttresses similar to those of the River Front ; the
bands are sculptured with the quarterings of the kings of England between the
Heptarchy and the Conquest, inscriptions and dates of accession, &c. ; while the
niches between the windows in each bay contain effigies of the Sovereigns whose arms
are below. This fhmt terminates at the west with the Clock Tower and turreted
lantern spire. The height of this tower is 316 feet from high-water mark (Trinity
standard) to the top of the sceptre on its roof. The dock has the largest dials in the
world— that is, where the clock is an integ^ portion of the design ; the only larger
one being that of Mechlin, the dial of which is of open metal-work, applied over, but
unconnected with the architecture. The roof is fhlly ornamented and finished with
gilding and colour to an extent not elsewhere to be seen in this ooxmtry. For this
tower two great hour-beUs were provided; both .of which were broken, as described at
p. 44. The weight of gold-leaf used in decorating the dock-tower up to June 30,
1857, was about 95) ounces ; cost of gold-leaf 890^. 6#. &2. ; wages of artificers,
229/. \ls, 8(2. ; completion of the work, about 400/. The gold is pure, and treble
the thickness of ordinary gold-leaf.
The Clock was made bj Mr. Dent, Jonior. firom the designs of Mr. E. Denlson, abont 1866. The foor
dials are 22 fleet in diameter, and are oonsidered to be the largest in the world, with a minnte-hand»
which, on aoooont of iu gnat length, velocity, weight, firlcUon, and the aotion of the wind npon it,
requirea at least twenty times more force to drive it than the houi^hand. Tfais clock goes Ibr 8 dajs.
Tho great wlieel of the going part is 27 inches in diameter; the pendulom is 16 feet Ions, and wdgns
ounce. All the wheels, except the
but only 14 Inches long, as it does
the soane- wheel, are of ea8t*iTon. The hafrel u 23 inches in diameter,
loes not reqolre a rope above a qoarter of an inch thick. The seoona
'. The great wheels nave all 180 teeth, the second wheel of the hour
eno poonds; and the scape-wheel, which Is driven b^ the mosioal*box spring, weighs ahoat half aa
»cept the sd^wheel, are or oast-iron. The h^rel u
Dg, asitd . -.. .. -
wheel is IS inches iu diameter.
Htrililng' part has 106, and a ptnioa of futeen. The great wheels in the chiming part of the clock are
3^i inches in diameter. The dock ia said to be at least eight times as large as a Aill-sixed cathedral
clock. It oocaples its keepers two hoars a week in winding it np. It goes with a rate of under one second
ft week, in spite of any atmospheric changes. {OttriontU* qf Cloek$ and Waiekn, p. 206.) It reports
Its own time to Qreenwich by electrical connexion, and the dockmaker who 'takes care of it receiyes
Greenwich time by electridty, and sets the dock right whenerer its error becomes sensible^ whldi
Bcldom has to be done more tlian once a month. It may be relied on within less than one second a
week, which is seren times greater accoraqy than was required In the original conditions. The entire
machinery of the dock occupies a space 16 feet lour, by 6 ^et in width, and Its weight Is orer four tons.
An anrnngsoMnt is also made which will admit of ins wheels bdng taken out of the frame singly with-
U V 2
eeo CURIOSITIES of London.
oat dittarbiDir the othen, and the clock is fitted with the pitent mvitj eacapement of Mr. Dent. T^
beirel is to oonstracted u that the hands will keep going while the dock is being woond up. IbM has
of the clock are of patent wire rope, and the palleU of the escapement are iewelled with a^ppbires. asd
not with agate, as Is osaaUy the case. The minate-hand is 16 feet long, and, notwithstanding that iz is
made of copper and beat en oat as thin as is consistent with its length and strengUi, it still weig^ 2 cvt.
llie hoar hand is nine feet long, and is fkstened with the minate-hand to the centre of the dial bf a
hoge gilt rose (part of the arms of Westminster), which is about the sixe of a small dininr-tabk. 13
the intentices between the figares and work on the clock &oe are glaied in with enameUedf fl^aaa, so b
to present the appearance of a white dial in the day and allow it to be illamlnated during the b%^
Each dial is lit with eo gas jets, which are tomed on and off by a peealiar adM>tatioii of the dock-w^irk.
The light in the dial thas wanes as day dawns and increases with the fkding twfUghfc. Hie cost of the
gaa for this is BOOl. per annam. The clock, altogether, cost more than 82,0001.
TSU South Droni reflembles the north, has aimilar decorations chronologically axrazkgBd,
and terminates westward with the Victoria Ibwer.
Saxan King$ and Queen$ ai ths South JVwi^ commencing at the wing tower, and pirooeedinsr i?<^
base to sainmit in each bay.— Agatha, Harold 11., Editha, Edward III.. Hardicanate^ Harold, Kmna.
Canate, Elgiva, Edmund, Emma, Ethcdred, Edward IL, Ellleda, EdgSr, Edwin. Edred, Elgina, Edrac&d,
Athelstan, Elfleda. Edward I., Elwitba, Alfred, Ethebred, Ethelbert, Ethelbald, Jndith, Egbert, Exbt\-
wolf; two kings of Mcrda, Notthamberlaod, East Anglia, Weaaez, Essex, Kent, and Sosaez ; the wbc-k
sculptured in atone by John Thomas.
The Victoria Tower is the largest and highest square tower in the world, being 7S
feet square, and 336 feet high to the top of the pinnacle, and over 400 feet to the top
of tlie flag-stair. The foundation is of solid concrete, 9 feet 6 inches deep, with sc^d
brickwork over that, the whole inclosed and strengthened by piling. "Hie building
was commenced April 2, 1842, and grew at the rate of 23 feet per year until completed;
it presses upon the foundation with a weight little short of 30,000 tons. Tlie walk
are 12 feet thick up to the base of the first tier of windows, and thence 6 feet. The
storied windows are 44 feet high by 32 feet wide, and 5 feet deep. The figuxcs,
which look so small and infantine in the niches on the sides, are colossal masses, nearij
10 feet high, and weighing many tons. The supporters of the coats of arms of our
kings are as large as horses ; and a well staircase of iron winds up in apparently endlea
spirals, till the circling balustrade is merged together in the long perspective;, termi-
nating at a dim bluish spot no bigger than your hand, which marln the outlet on to
the tower-roof. A person standing on the ground under the centre of t^e tower can
see up at a glance, as through a telescope, from the bottom to the top. The tower
is fireproof, and was intended to be used as a grand repository fco* the State papers,
records, and muniments of the nation ; and for this purpose it is divided into elercfi
stories, each of which, with the exception of the basement story and the first floor
immediately over it, contains sixteen fireproof rooms. The roof, though made as light
as is consistent with its safisty from the wind, nevertheless weighs upwarda of 400
tons. That little pierced parapet^ which from the street looks scarce aofBdent to
prevent a man from falling over, is actually sixteen feet high. The lions and crowns
on its battlemented top are more than six feet high, while even the g^t tope tc the
four turrets, which from the ground are hardly distinguishable, are wrought-inm
crowns 5 feet 2 inches in diameter, and weighing one ton each. The roo^ nxteen feeb
above the parapet, is surrounded with a g^t railing six feet high, the four comers an*
guarded by four stone Uons twenty feet high ; and from the base of the comers spring four
cast-iron flying arched buttresses, formed in the centre in a kind of crown abont thirty
feet above the roof. Here is the colossal flagstaff of rolled sheet iron bolted togetiier,
110 feet long, 3 feet in diameter at the base, and weighing between axteen and
eighteen tons. The flag, 60 feet long by 45 feet broad, required upwards of 400 yardb
of bunting to make it; it has to be hauled up by machinery. The little turrets at
the comers reach ninety feet above the roof. They are divided into two stories, the
first or lower being about sixty feet above the roof; and here a low balcony, with stone
work breast-high, allows the visitor to come right out upon the outside of the turret and
walk around it. The view almost repays the efibrt made to reach it. All I<oodoD
lies beneath you, looking like a diminished and smoky model of itself, in which some-
how the streets seem broader and more empty, and the houses lower and more regular,
than they ever appear to those on terra Jirma, On a clear day not only all London
can be seen from the summit of these pinnadee^ but even all its suburbs, from Hounslow
to Shooter's-hill on one side, and from Harrow to the red bleak-looking downs beyond
Addington on the other. The portal is of sufficient capadty to admit Uie Royal State
TAELIAKENT HOUSES. 661
ooach to be driven to the foot of the staircase within the tower. Colossal statues of
the Lion of England, bearing the National Standard, flank the portal ; while carving,
rich and emblematical, adorns the walls and groined roof of the interior. High
above a rich quatrefoil band, differing in design, and containing heraldic badges,
foliage^ and initials^ comes the first tier of windows, with thdr rich tracery and lofty
two-centred arches. Above these windows are strange devices in the way of shields
and supporters* which here and there show the three Mods pcusaiU ffuardant, supported
by such animals as are unknown to modem English heraldry. Nevertheless, these
are the Royal arms of England's former kings. Within the porch and over the arch-
way on the east side are niches, containing statues of the Guardian Saints of the United
Kingdom — St. George of England, St. Andrew of Scotland, and St. Patrick of Ireknd ;
while the amilar archway on the north side, which forms the access to the Royal stair-
case has niches of accordant design, one containing a large statue of her Majesty Queen
Victoria in the centre, while those on either side contain allegorical figures of Justice
and Mercy. Recurring to the exterior of the Tower, immediately over the above great
entrance, as well as on the south side, is a row of rich niches^ the centre one higher
than the rest, and containing a statue of the Queen ; while the others ar^ occupied by
her Mnjest/s father and mother, the late Duke and Duchess of Kent, and other mem-
bers of the Royal Family. (Abridged chiefly from The 2Vm«ff journal.)
The Wewt Front, towards New Palace-yard, is composed of bays divided by bold
buttresses, terminating in rich pinnacles. This land-front will hereafter embrace
the area cf the present Law Courts. The niches of the buttresses will contain statues
of eminent commoners. The portion of this front complete, is that opposite Henry the
Seventh's Chapel, called St. Margaret's Porch ; and the gable of Westminster HalL
which has been advanced southward, the gpreat window being replaced, thus forms St.
Stephen's Porch, with much of the varied and piquant character of the Town-hall of
Louvain. The turrets contain statuettes of Edward III. and Queen Philippe, St. George
and St. Andrew, Henry VII. and Elizabeth of York, St. Patrick and St. Stephen. In
the gable are statuettes of Edward the Confessor and William Rufus, William IV. and
Queen Victoria; and this fii9ade is richly sculptured with the Royal arms, the separate
insignia of England, Ireland, and ScotUnd, badges, &c. The whole composition should
be seen from Poet's Comer, and it combines well with Heniy the Seventh's Chapel.
Between the Victoria Tower and St. Stephen's Porch is a range of buildings four
stories in height, with a central dock-tower 120 feet high. Besides the great towem
already named, oriels and turrets add effect to the sky-line of the building, whether
viewed fhim the exterior or from the courts.
The whole front from St. Stephen's Porch to Victoria Tower is appropriated for offioss
of the House of Peers, including peers' private entrance and staircase, committee-roomiy
waiting-rooms» and the numerous other apartments required. It also includes a lai^
room to be called the Peeri^ Eobing-Boom, which is to be decorated in fresco by Mr.
Herbert, RJL. This is lighted from the top, and fitted up in oak, as is the case with
the other apartments. The frescoes will be eight in number, of large size,— the
•nbjects Scriptund.
*'The Pfelace of Westminster stands alone and nuitchless in Europe among the
architectural monuments of this busy age. From the border of the Thames, from
St. James's Park or Waterloo-place, from Piccadilly, or the bridge across the Ser-
pentine, the spectacle of that large square tower, of the central needle, and far away
of the more fkntastic Beffroi^-^eM grouping at every step in some different combi-
nations-stamp the whole building as the massive conception of a master mind."—
(Saturday Seview.)
One of the FubUe Sntrancee to the J£<mte» of Parliament is by 8L Stephen's Stair*
ccue, ascending from St. Margaret's Porch : the bosses, panels, and decorative work of
the ceiling and the supporting arches are very elaborate ; the walls will be embellished
with freso)es. Westminster Hall forms the grand vestibule of approach from the
north. About midway, on the east side of the Hall, is the Memhen^ Entrance to the
Monte of Commons, through the restored Cloisters of St, Stephen's : the fan-traoery
of the roof, and a small projecting chapel or oratory, are very beautiful. A cloister
built by Henry VIII. has he&i restored, as a relic of English mediaval art. An upper
662 CURIOSITIES OF LONDON.
doistcr has been added, by which is a staircase to the House of CommoDS. Betnmiag
to Westminster Hall, at the south end is a flight of steps to St. Slepien's Porei,
65 feet in height: the great central window is 48 feet high and 25 feet wide, and is
filled with stained glass, by Hardman, charged with the insignia of the Sovereigns of
England. On the right is the entrance from St. Stephen's Staircase, and an the kft
is a snpall) doorway leading into St, Slephent^M Sail, 95 ftet long by 30 feet wide^
and 56 feet high, reared upon the ancient Crypt of St. Stephen's^ which has been
restored for use as the Pklaoe Chapel. From Uie floor of St. Stephen's Hall theze
ii no one step throughout the whole extent^ ■ all is of one letfel. Next is
The Central KaUf an octagon 70 feet square, with the largest span of stone Gotiiie
roo^ of similar form, in Europe : the height from the floor to the key-stone is 75 feet,
and the bosses measure 4 feet in diameter. The eight sides contain alternately great
doorways and windows, the latter to be filled with stained glass; and the sidKs
between the arches contiun portrait and costume statues of the English Soverdgos and
their Queens, sculptured in Caen stone by John Thomas. Among the most strildng
are William I. $ Henry I.; Richard I. and his Queen; King John ; Eleanor Queen of
Edward I.; Edward III. and his Queen Philippa; Henry V. and his Queen Katherine ;
Richard III. ; Henry VII. and his Queen ElizabetlL The encaustic-tile pavement b
very fine. Thence a corridor leads north to the Commons' Lobby and House of
Commons, and south to the Peers' Lobby and House of Peers. The arcbway west
communicates with St. Stephen's Hall : and the east leads to the XotP^r Waitimg Sail ;
the Conference Hall, in the River Front; and the Upper Waiting Hall^ embellished
with frescoes, including the Patience of Griselda (from Chaucer), by Cope ; Disinheritanoe
of Cordelia by King Lear (firom Shakspeare), by Herbert* R.A. ; the Temptation of
Adam and Eve (from Ifilton), by Horsley; and St. Cecilia (firom Dryden), by Tennid.
The Electric Telegraph Cffice (opened April 1, 1858) is in the Centeal Hall;
whence wires are laid to the Company's Office and the metropolitan stations. The
north gahle of Westminster Hall and the adjoining Law Courts, Sir Charles Bany*
proposed to make accord with this beautiful fiont; New Palace Yard being inclosed
by parliamentary buildings, thus making it, by means of an important gateway looking
towards VHiitehall, the entrance courtyard of the new Palace^ as it was origiiially St
the old Palace of the time of Richard II. f
The Rotal Entsakcb is by the Victoria Tower, already described. At the sammit
of the Royal Staircase is the Norman Foreh, named from its statues of kings of the
Norman line, and frescoes of scenes from Anglo-Norman history ; its beautifully groined
roof and clustered columns, rich bosses and ribs, are of the same period. To the right
is the Queen'e Sohing-room, pdnted by Dyoe, RJL, with frescoes allegorical of cfaivaliy
fostering generous and religious feelings. Here are two frescoes in large panels, by
Haclise, RJL : the Meeting of Wellington and Blucher after Waterloo; the Death of
Nelson— one side only is completed; Mr. Dyce died February 14, 1864. Next is the
Vietoria or Boyal Gallery, 110 feet in length by 45 feet in widtii, and 45 feet high ;
to be decorated with frescoes firom English bistoiy, an armorial band beneath the
stained-glass windows, and a panelled and superbly enriched ceiling. To this gaUeiry
the public are admitted, by tickets (to be obtained of the Lord Great Chamberlain), to
view the procession of her Majesty to open and prorogue Parliament.
The JPrinc^e Chamber, a kind of ante-room to the House of Lords, has the entrance-
* A Toy beaatiAil memorial tablet to perpetuate the memoir of the late Sir Charles Bartj haa been
erected In the nare of Weatminater Abbey, over the spot where tne distingidahed ardiiteet of m Houa
of Parliament lies bulled ; and nearly adjoining the grave of the late Mr. Bobert Stephenaon, to whom,
it will be remembered, a monumentu brass, representing a fhll-length figore of the eminent engineer,
was inscribed a few years since. The memoriiJ, which has been pboed m the Abbey by tiie ftmily of
the lute Sir C. Bany, consists of a large cross let Into a maaslTe slab of Uaek marble aboat 12 feel in
length by 6 feet in vridth, and the inamption on the cross is as follows :— ** Sacred to the memory of the
late Sir C. Barry, RA^ F.B.S., architect of the New PaUoe at Westminster and other boildings, who
died on the 12th of Mmj, 1800, aged M yeara, and lies boried beneath this brass." The foUowfig text
is also inscribed roond the outside of the marble slab :— '* VfhMteoewes ye do, do it heartily, aa to ttie
Lord and not unto men, for ye serre the Lord Christ." Coloatiant ilL 28, 24.
t "The new Palace Tard being anciently enclosed by a wall, there were flrar gates therein, (be oqIt
one at present remaining ia that on the east side leading to Westminster Stairs— the three others wiuda
were demolished were that on the north which led to Woolstaple, that on the west called Highgate, a
very beautiftd and stately edifice, situate at the east end of Union-street : it was taken down in the year
170^ as was also the third at the north end of St Margarefs-lao^ anno 1731."— Jf aiOomi 1739.
PAELIAMJSNT HOUSES. 663
doorway richly decorated with the national arms, armorial roees and quatrefoils; and
oppoeite, on the north nde, in a corresponding urch, is the statue of Queen Victoria,
with figures of Justice and Mercy, and has-relie^ hy Oihson, B.A. Upon the walls
are twelve has-relieft, by Theed, carved in oak, of memorable events in Tudor histoiy ;
and over these panels, are twenty-eight portraits of the same period, painted on a gold
groimd. The frieze is enriched with oak-leaves and aooms, and armorial shields and
labels ; the windows are painted with the rose, thistle, and shamrock, and regal crowns;
and the armorial ceiling and Tudor fire-places are dight with colour, ^ding, and
Mulpture. From the Prince's chamber we enter
The HonsB ov Losds, extremely rich in gilding, polychromy, wrought metal, and
carved work. Its dimenaons are, length in the dear, 91 feet, breadth 46 feet^ and
height 45 feet, so that it is a double cube. The walls are 3 feet 1 inch thick. East
and west are twelve lofty windows, six on either side^ filled with painted-glass whole-
length portraits of the kings and queens, consort and regnant, of the United Kingdom :
six containing figures of the royal line of England before the union of the crowns;
three, of the royal h'ne of Scotland from Bruce to James VI.; and three, of the
Sovereigns of Great Britain from the reign of Charles I. The style of colouring in
these windows is that of 1460-1500.
At each end of the House are three archways, within which are these wall-fresooes : —
Ootr tt« Tkrons: Edward III. conferring the Order of the Gtrter on the Black Prince; C. W. GopCL
B.A. The Baptism of St. Bthelbert j W. I^oe^ B^A. Prince Henzy acknowledging the anthoxitj of
Judge Oaacoigne; G. W. Cope, BJL
Over tk* StroMMn' OaUerw : The Spbit of Joatice ; D. liacUse, B.A. The Spirit of Beligion ; J. C.
Horslcy. The Spirit of ChiTaIxy j D. Madiae^ B^A.
Between the windows, archways, and in the comers, are canopied niches, with pedestals
supported by angels bearing shields charged with the arms of the ^ghteen barons who
obtained Magna Charta from King John, and whose bronze effigies occupy tho niches.
Above these niches are segpnents of arches^ which, as trusses, support the main arches
of the ceiling, and are elaborately pierced and carved.
The ceiling is flat, and divided into comportments containing lozenges charged with
devices and symbols : the royal monogram, the monograms of the Prince of Wales and
Prince Consort; the cognisances of the white hart of Richard II.; the sun of the
House of York ; the crown in a bush, Henry VII. ; the fiilcon, dragon, and greyhound ;
the lion paMant of England, the lion rampant of Scotland, and the harp of Ireland ;
sceptres, orbs, and crowns; the scales of Justice; mitres and crosiers, and swords of
mercy ; coronets, and the triple plume of the Prince of Wales. Among the devices
•re the rose of England and the pomegranate of Castile; the portcullis of Beaufort^
the lily of France, and the lion of England; and the armorial shields of the Saxon
Heptarchy. The massive beams appear like solid gold : they are inscribed on the sides
with religious and loyal mottoes.
Beneath the windows, the walls are covered with oak panelling and carved busts of
the Soverngns of England ; and above is the inscription " God save the Queen," in
Tudor characters. Thence springs a coving, in the southern division emblazoned with
the arms of lord chancellors and their Sovereigns, and northward with the bishops'
arms. This coving supports a gallery with wronght-metal railing, richly-carved panel-
ling, and pillars which support a brattishing.
The centre of the southern end of the House is occupied by the Throne, on either
side of which is a doorway leading to the Prince's Chamber. At the northern end of
the House* over the prindpal doorway, is the Strangeri^ Qallerfft behind the Reportert^
OaUertf, upon the front of which are punted the badges of the sovereigns of England;
and over the archways are painted on shields the coat-armour of the Saxon, Norman,
Phmtagenet, Tudor, Stuart, and Hanoverian Houses; the arms of the archlepisoopal
sees, and some of the Inshoprics; and in front of the gallery is a dock with an ezqui-
ntdy carved case and dial enamelled in colours. On the right of the Bar is the seat of
the Usher of the Black Rod. The Peers' seats (accommodating 235) are ranged
longitudinally from north to south. At the south end is the clerks' table; and beyond
it are the woolsacks, covered with crimson doth. At the north end is The Bar, a
dwarf screen, at which appear the Members of the House of Commons, and at which
664 CURIOSITIES OF LONBOK
oonniel plead. At the four anglei of the area U a saperb bran csandelabmm, by
Hardman, 17 feet high, and wmglung 11^ cwt.
Thx Rotal Thbohb, at the aoath end, is elevated on stepe (the centre three, ax»l
the ndes two), which are covered with a carpet of bright icarlet, powdered with wYdU
roses and lions, and fringed with g^ld-ooloar. The canopy to the throne is in three
compartments : the central one, mnch loftier than the others, for her Majesty ; that on
the right hand for the Prince of Wales, and that on the left for the FViooe Consort.
The back of the central compartment is panelled with lions passant, carved and gilded,
on a red g^roand ; and above are the royal arms of England, elaborately emblazooedL
■armonnted by the royal monogram and "Dieu et mon droits" in perforated letters;
and a brattishing of Greek crosses and fleur-de-Us crests. Above are the crests of
England, Scotland, Ireland, and Wales, richly carved; the ceiling bears the mcmqgrani
V. R. within an exquisite border, and the flat sur&oes painted with stara. The span-
drda of the canopy, and the octagonal {nllars with coronal capitals, are exqcistdy
carved. In front of the canopy, above a brattishing of perforated Tudor flowers, are
five traoeried ogee arches : in the central one is the figure of St Qeorge and the
Dragon; and in the two udes are knights of the Qarter and Bath, the Thistle and St.
Patrick. The angle^buttresses of this canopy have coronal pendants; on the froots
and sides are animals, on the summits open-worked royal crowns. On the sides like-
wise are shields of the arms of England, Scotland, Ireland, and Wales, beantifullT
carved, painted, and gilded ; and upon pedestals are sitting figures of winged angels
holding shields enamdled with the arms of England. The nde compartments of the
canopy have, the one the heraldic symbols of the Prince of Wales, and the other those
of Prince Albert, blended with the architectural features : they have covings, gilded,
and pedestals supporting a lion and unicorn holding shields of arms ; the an^le-bot-
tresses have coronal pendants, and the shafts are surmounted by crowns. On either
hand is a dwarf wing with pedestal, on which are seated the royal supporters, the Ikm
and unicorn, holding standards enamelled with the arms of England.
7^ (iueen*s Chair qf State, or Throne, in general outline resembles ** the eoronatiaa
chair :" the legs rest upon four lions couchant ; the base has quatrefoil panels, with
crowns and V. R.; sprays of roses, shamrocks, and thistles; and a broad bar of roses
and leaves ; in the panels beneath the arms of the chair are Uons passant and treillage;
upon the back pinnacles are a lion and unioom, seated, holding scrolls and flanking' the
gable, within which is a drde of exquisitely quatre-foiled ornament^ indoung the
monogram V. R. ; the exterior ridge is carved with roses, and the apex surmounted
with a richly decorated crown. The back of the chair is bordered with large egg-
shaped pieces of crystal, within which are the royal arms of England, embroidered on
velvet. The Footetool has carved sides, and a crimson velvet top, gorgeously embrcu-
dered with roses in a border of fleurs-de-lis.
The State Chairs for the Prince of Wdlee and Prince Contort are curule-ehaped,
have circular-headed backsj, embrddered on velvet with the ostrich triple-plume and
the shield of arms. The throne and footstool, and the two princes* chairai, are g^ded
throughout.
The House of Peers was first occupied by their lordships April 15, 1847.
jThe Peer^ Lobby is 88 feet square and 33 feet high, and has on either side a lofty
arch, above which are painted, within arches, the arms of the Saxon, Norman, Flan-
tagenet, Tudor, Stuart, and Hanoverian royal lines, each surmounted by a royal crown.
The north doorway opens into the House of Commons Corridor, the south doorway
opens into the House of Lords : the arch is boldly sculptured with Tudor roees^ royally
crowned; the inner arch is enriched with gilded oak-leaves. The space over is filled
with the royal arms, roses, thistles, and shamrocks, oolouved and gilded. The gates
are of massive brassy by Hardman, and of richly fioriated deagn, the frames studded
with Norman roses. These gates weigh 1^ tons, are 11 feet lugh, and 6 feet wide;
and are of a material not used in England for such a purpose for nearly 400 years.
The side- wall compartments of the Lobby are filled with ogee arches; and the apper
stories are windows, punted by Hardman, and Ballantyne, and Allan, with the arms of
the early families of the aristocracy of England. The roof is punted with
PARLIAMENT HOUSES. 666
thistlefl^ and flhamrocks, in squares, on a bine ground, and relieved with gilding. The
pavement is encaustic tiles, by Minton ; alleys of black marble, including " Dieu et
men droit" in tiles, V. R., the lions of England, &c ; and in the centre is a Tndor rose
of Derbyshire marble, bordered with engraved brass. At each corner of the lobby is a
magnificent gas-standard, about 12 feet high.
The Teertf Libraries are a magnificent suite of rooms ; above the oak book-shelves
is a frieze, with panels of the arms of the Chief Justices of England. The Peen^
Mohing-room it is proposed to decorate with irescoes illustrating Human Justice and
its development in Law and Judgment, by Herbert, R.A. The one executed is in
water-glass; the subject, Moees bringing down the Second Tables of the Law, oc-
cupied the ptunter three years : size 22 feet by 10 feet 6 inches ; figures life-dze.
Returning to the Peers' Lobby, the archway on the north side gives access to the
Peers' Corridor, corresponding with the Commons' Corridor immediately opposite in
the Central HaU, the walls of which are panelled for frescoes, some of which have
been completed. The decorations of the Corridors leading from the Central Hall,
to the Houses of Lords and Commons, are as follows :—
Th0 PMTf* Corrtdor.—C. W. Cope, RA., The Burial of Chsrles 1. 1 The Parting of Lord and Lady
Bnssell ; EzpolBion of the Fellows ox a CoUege at Oxford for reftuimr to sign the Covenant ; The Em-
barkation of the Pilgrim Fathers for New England ; The Defence of Basing Uoose; The setting ont of
the Train Biadi ftom London to relieve Gloacester ; Charles I. erecting his standard at Nottingham.
The Oommontf Cbmtfor.— E. M. Ward, B.A., Alioe Lisle assisting the Fugitives to Escape alter the
Battle of Sedgmoor; Jane Lane assistinsr Charles II. to Escape ftfler the Battle of Worcester; The
Last Sleep of Argyle ; The Execution of Montrose ; The Landing of Charles XL at Dover. .
The Central HaU has been already described. Leaving this through an arched
doorway on the west side, we enter St. Stepheti^s HaU, which occupies the site
of the old St. Stephen's Chapel. The Hall has a beautiful stone vaulting, the
bosses of which have subjects from the life of St. Stephen ; its windows are filled with
appropriate glass, and on pedestals are marble statues of Selden, Foley, B.A. ;
Hampden, Foley, B.A. ; Lord Falkland, Bell ; Lord Garendon, Marshall, BA. ; Lord
Somers, Manhdl, B.A. ; Sir Bobert Walpole, Bell ; Lord Chatham, M'Dowell, B.A. ;
Lord Mansfield, Baily, B.A. ; Burke, Theed ; Fox, Baily, B.A.; Fitt, M'Dowell, B.A;
Grantham, Carew. A small staircase at one end leads to St, Stephen's Crypt, de-
scribed at p. 804. In the niches of the doorway to St. Stephen's Hall are twelve
statues of early Kings and Queens. We leave the Hall for St, Stephen's Poreh^
whence a fine view is obtained of Westminster Hall, which it was proposed by Sir
Charles Barry to make an antechamber to the House of Legislature. By a beautiful
new doorway on the east side we enter the Cloisters of St, Stephen's, which have been
restored and enlarged. From the upper Cl<nster by the Lobby we enter
Thx Horsx OP Comhokb, 76 feet long, 46 feet wide, and 41 feet high ; the nze
being as small as possible for speaking and hearing without efibrt during the average
attendance of Members, about 300. The twelve side windows are painted with the
arms of boroughs, by Hardman ; and at each end is a stone screen filled with brass
tracery. The odling has the rides and ends incUned, and the centre fiat : it is divided
by massive ribs into compartments, which are filled with ground-glass tinted with the
rose, portcullis, and fioriated drcles; behind were originally placed the gas-lights,
with Faraday's patent ventilation, cutting off connexion between the gas and the air
of the apartment, the vitiated air being conveyed away by tubes into a chamber above
the ceiling. The artificial light is now supplied from the chamber above the ceilings,
in which about 1000 feet of gas are consumed per hour in the evening sittings ; none
of the products of combustion escape into the House. The fioor of the House is of
perforated cast iron, covered with matting, through which hot and cold air are admitted.
Tk9 YeidUatUm at present adopted in the two Houses Is that of exhanstion, the air being pot in
motion by means of heat applied bV ooke*fires in great upcast shafts, the two chief being in the victoria
Tower and the Clock Tower. Under as well as vxyre ground are hundreds of air-courses; some for
supplying oold air, others for warm air, others for canying off vitiated air. There are in this great
palace steam-^pes, of which the aggregate length is about IS miles, and 1200 stop-cocks and valves
connected wim thesepipes. Taking the House that sits longest, we learn from Dr. Percy's able Beport,
that the air for the House of Commons is admitted fttnn the Star Court and the Commons Court ; it is
strained throng^ gauxe, and then warmed when neoessarj by Oumey's batteries; after which it ascends
through the floor of the House. Dr. Percy tells us that, although a great number of minor details are
666 CUBI08ITIJE8 OF LONBOK
defiseUve and need completion, jei »11 applianoes for eflfectiTe ventilation exist; ezpcrimeola ten
demonstrated that the supply of Aresh air passinff through the Hooaea nnder rtajing ooiuUtMos hn
generally exoeedod the proportion declared by Uie nighest anthorities to be amplr aomeient. SatisCutray
as this may be^ Dr. Percy reminds as that too mueh tcmh air cannot be aoppbea. provided ita tecpaa-
tnre and its state as to moistnre be soitable, and no draught be peroeptibl»— a oonditioo wlddi s^cpsld
be regarded as a ftmdamental principle in ereiy so-called system of ventilation. While In some inaisrwi
the oomplainta made may be well fonnded, it is pretty certain that in other instanees they reaolted froa
the spedal bodily condiUons of the individoals making them; aa the state of iht stomach aa to the
quantity of food which it contains, the amoont of alcoholic liqnor etreulating throogh the ^yitem, the
moseolar exertion which the body mi^ have recently onde^one, as well as the oonditkm of meetil
exertion or excitement, will greatly modiJQr our impieaaiona aa to the agreeableneaa of the l«B|>tiiBtiiiB
and the perfection of the ventilation.
It ia impoHible to bum the House down : you might set fixe to and destroy the farm'
tare and fittings; bat the flooring, walU, and roof would remain intacL "Hie walk
are panelled with oak two-thirds np, carved with the linen-pattem« armorial Bhieida»
pendants, foliated mouldings, and brattishings. Upon three aides are galleries for
Memben and Strangens the 'Rgportenf Q-aUery bdng at the north end, over the
Speaker* M Chair, a sort of canopied throne elaborately carved with the royal anna; ^
Behind the brass tracery above the Reporters' Gallery is a gallery for ladies. At the
northern end of the House is The Bar, temporarily formed by sliding rods of brass;
and here is the special seat of the Seijeant-at-arms. The Ministerial seats ai« on the
front bench to the right of the Speaker, the leaders of the Opposition ooeapjing iJie
front bench opposite. Below the Speaker's Chair is the ClerW Table, whereon, danng
the bosiness of the House, is placed the Speaker^e JIfaoe ; not, as g^erally sappoaBd,
** the fool's bauble" which Cromwell ordered to be taken away, but the maoe made at
the Restoration. Along both sides of the House are the Division Loblnea^ ** Ayes'*
west, and " Noes" east; these being oak-panelled corridors, with stained-glaaa windows:
the chandeliers are of chased brass.
The Commons first assembled in their new House Februarys, 1852; eight dayi
after which (February 11), Mr. Barry received knighthood.
The Commone Lobby is a rich apartment 45 feet square^ and has on each ade an
archway; carved open screens inscribed "I>omine salvam fac Reginam ;" and windows
painted with the arms of parliamentary boroughs : the brass gas-standarda^ by Hard-
man, are elaborately chased. The doorways lead to the Library, the Post-ofike^
Vote-paper Office, Central Hall, &c The Libraries are fitted with dark oak. The
Refreshment Booms for the Peers and Commons are similarly arranged, and respec-
tively are divided by a carved oak screen.
The public are admitted to view both Houses of Parliament, and all tbe public
portion of the New Palace of Westminster, every Saturday between 10 and 4 o'dodk;
dming the session, by tickets ; which are obtainable on Saturdays, between 11 and 4
o'clock, at the Office of the Lcrd Great Chamberlain, in the Royed Court.
Admission to hear the Debates : Lords — A Peer's order ; Chmmons — ^Any Mem*
ber's, or the Speaker's, order. The House of Lords is open to the public^ without
ticket, during the hearing of Appeals.
The Speaker's Souse occupies part of the two pavilionsi, forming the end of the
river front of the Palace* next Westminster Bridge, and is approached by archways
from Palace-yard. It comprises from nzty to seventy rooms, and is finished
throughout in the style of the structure generally. The staircase, with its carvings
tile-paring, and brass-work, is exceedingly effiictive and elegant, and everywhere there
is a large amount of painted and gilded decoration. Cloisters, approached from tbe
House, surround a court about 20 feet square : the window openings in the dotsten
are filled with stained glass, containing the arms of all the Speakers, with the date of
election. The principal floor includes the State dining-room ; the drawing-room,
37 feet 3 inches by 28 feet 9 inches ; morning-room, 34 feet 6 inches by 23 feet 9 inches;
and a smaller dining-room, 34 feet by 24 feet 6 inches. The State dining-room is
45 feet by 23 feet 6 inches. Frames are set in the walls to receive a collection of portraits
of past Speakers. The rooms are lighted at night by wax-candles in coronas ; to light
the four rooms requires 400 wax-candles.
A Descriptive Handbook for the Pictures in the Houses of Farliameni, by T. J.
Gnllick, Fainter (published by authority), will at once satisfy the requirements of
artists and the general public : the accounts of the Pictures are written with care
FATEBNOSTEE-BOW. WI
and discrimination. And a Chtide to the Palaee is printed by perminion of the Lord
Orcat Chamberlain, and published by Warrington and Co.
FATEENOSTER'BOJT,
BETWEEN the north side of St. Fanl's Chorchyard, and the sooth of NewgAte-
street, is one of a knot of monastic localities; and is named frotn the tamers of
rosaries, or Pater Nosters (tenth beads), dwelling there, with stationers or text-writers^
who wrote and sold ABC, with the FtUier Noster, Ave^ Creed, Graces, Ac., in the reign
of Henry IV. Hatton describes it 1706 " between Cheapside Condait east, and Amen-
oomer west; and the name, as also those of Ave-Maria-lane (at its west end), Creed-lane
(in Ludgate-street, oppoate), and Amen-comer, g^ven by reason of the religions honses
formerly of Black and Gray Friars^ between which these streets are situated." Patep-
noster-row was next " taken np" by mercers, ulkmen, and laoemen : we read of Pepys,
in 1660 buying here " moyre for a morning waistcoat ;" and the street was ofttimes
blocked up with the coaches of the nobility and gentry. But few names of publishers
are met with as carrying on bu^ess in Paternoster-row before the Great Fire : one of
these is "B. Harford, in Queen's-head-alley, Pktemoster-row, 1642," and another,
"Christopher Meredi<^ Crane-alley, F&temoster-row." After the Great Fire* the
mercers mostly migrated westward, as to Holy well-street and Cogent Garden ; but
in a periodical of 1707 we read of " the sempstresses of Fatemoster^row :" and Strype^
in 1720, enumerates among its inhalntants ture-women, mercers, and silkmen. Here
lived Alderman Thomas, the mercer, whose shop bore the motto of Sir William Turner,
" Keep your shop, and your shop will keep you." (Spectator, No. 509.) Strype also
mentions "at l^e upper end, some stationers and Isirge warehouses for booksellers;"
but we find, as early as 1564^ that Henry Denham, bookseUer, lived at the Star, in
Paternoster-row, with the motto, 0$ homini sublime dedit In the reign of Queen
Anne the booksellers removed here from Little Britain ; and, fh>m about 1774^ the
tirade became changed to publishing books in " Paternoster-row numbers." Among
their publishers were Harrison, Cook, and the Hoggs ; to the lotter snooeeded thor
shopman, Thomas Kelly, Alderman of Farringdon Within, and Lord Mayor, 1886-7.
Here was the printing-office of Henry Sampson Woodfidl, the printer of the Publie
ddvertiser, wherein originally appeared Junitu^s ZeUere.
At *< the Bible and Crown" (the sign boldly carved in wood, coloured and gilt» in the
itring-course above the window), lived the Bavingtons, the High-Church publishers, from
L710 to 1858: here they continued the ^mnfaZ JSe^witfr, originally Dodsle/s* with Edmund
Burke as a contributor; and here, in 1791, the Rivingtons commenced the JBrUieh Oritio :
rat " the old shop," where Hordey and Tomline^ Warburton and Hurd, used to meet,
vas, in 1854^ altered to a '* shawl emporium." At No. 47 lived Bobert Baldwin, pub-
isherof the London Maganne, commenced 1782. The premises are now the publiabing-
louse of Messrs. William and Bobert Chambers, of Edinburgh : the fbrmer Loid
?kovost, 1866. Here the Bolnnsons established themselves 1763, the head of the firm
»eing ''King of the Booksellers:" here they pubUsbed the^aitiial Eegieter, with a
ale of 7000 copies each volume; and the unsatisfactory Biographical JHcUonary, by
Uexander Chalmers. At No. 69 have lived nearly a century and a half the Long-
nans ; the imprint of Thomas Longman, with Thomas and John Osborne, at the rign of
' the Ship and Black Swan," is dated 1725; and the same year we find a book of
rVhiston's bearing the* same names, although an edition of Bowels Dramatic JTorke,
) vols., 1725, is stated to be the earliest book with Longman's imprint Here was
ommenced the original Cgdopadia, by Ephraim Chambers, upon which was based the
Veto Cgclopttdia of Dr. Bees. For several years the firm gave here dinners and eoirSee
o authors and artists ; and they have acquired world-wide repute as the publishers of
he works of Scott, Mackintosh, Sonthey, Sydney Smith, Moore^ and Macauky.
f cssrs. Longman's ovm sale of books has amounted to five millions of volumes in the
ear. They possess some portraits of eminent literary persons.
The premises were rebuilt in handsome Benaisnnce style in 1863 ; the design in-
luding the rebuilding of the a4i<Mning house of Messrs. Blackwood and Sons, of Edin*
66S CUBIOSITIES OF LONDON.
Inii^b, at the extreme north-west comer. The fa^de is executed in Portland stone. The
character of the carving, especially of the lower storiesyis somewhat symbolical natural
foliage. On the key-stone of the central arch is represented Literature supported by
the Arts, Sciences^ and Education. In the spandrels of the same are the " Ship" and
the " Swan," bdng half-size copies of two medallions, saved from the old buildings,
and which had been trade signs or parts of these premises nnce the Great Fire.
No. S3, Hamilton, Adams» and Co., has been rebuilt in handsome style ; also No.
28, Kent and Co. No. 56, the Dep6t of the Religious Tract Sodety, was erected
in 1844^ at a cost of 12,0002. : the handsome stone frontage, of 120 feet, is in the
Italian style. The Society commenced operations, in 1799, with a small handbill ; its
annual distribution of books and tracts in 1853 was nearly 26 millions, and its gross
income 94872. ; in 1866, circulation 46,000,000. The Sodety issues five illustrated
periodicals, induding the Leitnre Sour and the Sunday at Home,
No. 50, long the Chapter Coffee-houee, described at pp. 263-4^ was dosed as a eofiee>
bouse, in Deoraiber, 1853 ; having been for a century and more the resort of anthon^
booksellers, and politicians : the house is referred to in the correspondence of Chatterton.
" A oontemporarj anecdote exhibits Ooldnnlth psTmuter, at the Chapter Coffee-house, for Chardiill's
friend, Charles Lloyd, who, in his caceleas way, without a 8hUlinf|» to paj for the entertainment, had
fcivited him to sap with some Meads of Grab-street."— Fortter'e Lift rf QoldtmUk, p. 282.
Between Paternoster-row and Newgate-street is Newgate Market: here^ in 1709
{Tatler, No. 44), was exhibited the Groaning Board :
** At the tUga of the Wooliack. in Newnte Market^ is to be seen a strange and wonderAil dm-bosid ;
irhichbeing tooehed with a hot inn, doth ezpreas itself as if it were a man dying with groaxif , Ase. It
been presented to the khag and his nobles, and hath given great satisfaction.*'— itd^wffteeigjtt.
Fanyer-alley, conjectured to have been named from its having been the standing of
bakers with their paniers, when bread was only sold in markets, and not in ahops or
houses, is described at pp. 416 and 614.
At " the sign of the Castle," in Patemoeter-row, Tarlton, Queen Elizabeth's fiivonrite
•tage-down, kept an ordinary, stated to have been on the site of Dolly's chop-house.
"The Castle," of which a token exists, was destroyed in the Great Fire, but was re-
built; and here "the Castle Sodety of Music" performed. The premises were sub-
sequently the Oxford Bible Warehouse, destroyed by fire in 1822, and rebuilt.
Wartoick'lane and Iv^'lane are noticed at p. 614.
There are likewise a PatemoHer-row and Idtile Paternoster-row in Spitalfields^
where was formerly the Priory of St. Mary Spittle.
PSNTONVILLS,
A DISTRICT of St James's parish, was originally a field of the Clerkenwdl
Nunnery. It was in part the estate of Henry Peuton, Esq. ; and when the New-
road was formed through it. White Conduit House, and the house attached to Dobney's
Bowling-green, were almost the only buildings here. One of the earliest was Hermes
House (in Hermes-street), built by Dr. de Valangin (a pupil of Boerhaave), who lived
to see Penton's viUe or town rinng around him. Here lived the noted William Hunt-
ington, S.S., when he married the widow of Sir James Sanderson, Bart., ex-Lord
Mayor. Upon the north side of the New-road (Pentonville-hill) is St. James's
Chapel, built 1788 : it has a clever altar-picture of Christ raising the damsel Tabitha.
Bebw the Chapel is the London Female Penitentiary, established 1807. In Regent-
terrace died the popular sporting writer. Pierce Egan, in 1849, at the full age of 77 :
and in Penton-placo lived Qrimaldi, " Old Joe," born in Stanhope-street, Clare-market,
in 1778, the year preceding that in which Garrick died.
Gerard, in his Herbal, edit. 163S, describes certun kinds of orchis growing in dry
pastures and heaths, and upon chalky hills, and "plentifully in sundry places, as in the
field by Islington, near London, where there is a bowling-green, under a few old
shrubby oaks." The spot alluded to seems to have been Winchester-pUce, now the
Pentonvillc-road. Thomas Cooke, the notorious miser, lived here.
PICCADILLY. 669
PICCADILLT,
A LEADING street, 110 yards less than a mile in length, extends, in a line with
Coventry-street, from the north end of the Haymarket westward to Hyde Park
Comer. The name is derived from the ruffs, called "pickadils" or "peccadilloes/'
worn hy the gallants of James I. and Charles I. ; and the stiffened points of which re-
semhled spear-heads, or picardills, a diminutive of pica, spear, Spanish and Italian.
Bloimt, in his GlossoffrapMa (1656), interprets it as the round hem ahont the edge or
skirt of a garment, and a stiff collar or hand for the neck and shoulders ; whence the
wooden peccadilloes (the pillory) in Hudihras. Hence the first house huilt in the road
may have heen named " from its heing the utmost or skirt house of the suhurhs that
way ;" and may hot the name have originated from the pillory having heen often set
up in this suhurh or open ground ? Mr. Peter Cunningham took oonsiderahle pains to
nnravel this question. Pennant traces the name to Piocadillas, turnovers or cakes,
which may have been sold in the suburban fields. Others say it took name from this :
" that one Higg^ns, a tailor, who built it, got most of his estate by piccadillas." But
the name occurs many years earlier than the mention of the first house, or Piccadilly
House : thus Gerard, in his Herbal (1596), states that " the small wild bu-glosse
growes upon the drie ditch-bankes about Pickadilla." The road is referred to, in
Stow's narrative of Sir Thomas Wyaf s rebellion in 1554^ as " the highway on the hill
over gainst St. James's ;" and in Aggas's Map (1560) it is lettered, " The Waye to
Redinge." The upper part of the Haymarket, and the fields acyoining north and
west, were the PickadiUy of the Restoration. Evelyn quotes the Commissioners'
orders, July 18, 1662, to pave " the Haymarket about Pig^dello;" and tradesmen's
tokens of this date bear « Pickadilla " and *< PickadiUy."
JPiccadilly Rail appears to have been built by one Robert Baker, "in the fields
behind the Mews," leased to him by St. Martin's parish, and sold by his widow to
Colonel Panton, who built Panton-square^ and Panton-street. Lord Clarendon, in his
Hutoty of the BehelUon, speaks of " Mr. Hyde going to a house called Piccadilly for
entertainment and gaming :" this house, with its gravel walks and bowling-greens, ex-
tended from the corner of Windmill-street and the site of Panton-square, as shown in
Porter and Faithome's Map, 1658. Mr. Cunningham found (see Handbook, 2nd edit,
p. 896), in the parish accounts of St. Martin's, Robte Backer, of Pickadilley Halle;"
and the receipts for Lammas money paid for the premises as late as 1670. Sir John
Snckling, the poet, was one of the frequenters; and Aubrey remembered Suckling^s
" sisters coming to the Peccadillo bowling-green, crying, for the feare he should lose all
their portions." The house was taken down about 1685 : a tennis-court in the rear
remained to our time^ upon the site of the Argyll Rooms, Great Windmill-street. The
Society of Antiquaries possess a printed proclamation {temp. Charles II. 1671) against
the increase of buildings in Windmill-fields and the fields a^'oining Soho; and in the
Flan of 1658, Great Windmill-street oon«sts of straggling houses, and a windmill in a
field on the west side. Tlie spacious house upon the oast side was built for Dr. William
Hunter in 1770 : it had an amphitheatre and a magnificent museum (see p. 597). He
died here March 80, 1788. At the north-east end of the Haymarket stood the
gaming-house built by the barber of the Earl of Pembroke, and hence called Shaver'e
Hall : it is described by Gerard, in a letter to Lord Strafford in 1635, as <* a new
Spring Gardens, erected in the fields beyond the Mews :" its tennis-court remained in
James-street, until 1867, when it was altered for another oocnpation.
From Piccadilly being applied to the Hall and the buildings in the fields north
and west of the Haymarket (in "Dogs-fields, Windmill-fidds, and the fields adjoining
Soho"), early maps show the name to have been extended to the Ime of street to
Swallow-street, where bcg^ Portugal-street^ named after Catherine of Braganza,
queen of Charles II. : in an Act 8 James II. is named *'the mansion-house of the Earl
of Burlington, frY>nting Portugal-street ;" but that it was considered a subordinate
street. Is shown by Wren having made the principal front of St. James's Church fiioe
Jermyn-street, with its handsome Ionic door. The name of Piccadilly, however, be-
came gradually extended to the whole line. Hatton, 170Q» describes Fiocadilly aa
670 CUBIOSITIES OF LONDON^
between Corenirj-ftreet and the end of the Haymu^et, and Portngal-itreet. Until
1721 the road was mostly anpaved, and coaches were often overtomed in the hoUow.
The line from Deronsbire Hooie westward was» nntil the year 1740, chiefly oocnpied
by the fSgare-yards of statoaries, where also " nnmberiess wretdied figures were
mannfiu^tored in lead for gardens."* Aboot this time an adjoimng field was bought br
a brewer Ibr his empty batts at 30/., and sold in 1764 for 2500f. {Maieolm.} In 1757
a tract of gromd was leased to James Hamilton, Esq., who bidlt thereon HaimUUm-
place,
Mtmmilfom plaet !■ etiled slier Jsmes Hamilton, Eaa^ Bapgcr of Hyde Park In the revm of
CSisrlei IL. ud the elder Hamilton of De Qrammont'e Memotis. Na 1, in IBIZ, was inhaluted by
ImAj Catherine l^ln^ I^ong r-
"Long msj Long Tylnqr Wellealqr Long Pole HreL"
la 181B» this boose paesed to Lord ChanoeUor Eldon. Na 4, in 1814^ passed to the great Dnke of
Wellington, whose London hoose it was when the Battle of Waterloo was won by this fine genins for
war. fn this liooae, the bibliopole, Mr. GrenTille^ collected the fine Library bequeathed bj hfan to the
British Mnseom. (Am pan 684) No. 0 was bought by Mr. Joseph Denison. M.P., for 10,000 nineM, and
jessented to his rister, lUrrhinmwi of Conyngham, wlio aaiwimlfd here a fine collectiop of china; ahe
&d in 1861, aged M. At No.7.Mr. John FliiUp MileB,ofLebrhGoart, made his ooQection of pictures of
the Italian ichooL Thia same No. 7 waa afterwards inhabited by the late Mr. H. A. J. MQniO|,of Novar,
and the rooms rdliUi with snother fine eoUection of pictures. Here were to be aeen the celebrated
" M«''<«"» del uandelshri," of Baffaelle. some noble landar^ws br Tomer, and a View of Yenke, by
•K^tngtrtti^ Ko om hooae that I can call to mind, has held two pnrate ooUeetions of phiiues eqasUy
ftmoos ss were ones to be seen at No. 7.— Peter Cunmrngkami BmUdtt, March ^ 1865.
Westward was The Sereulet PUlan, which, with other noted Piccadilly inns, is
described at p. 455. In one of these petty tayems at Hyde Park Comer, Sir Richard
Steele and the poet Savage dined together, after haying written a pamphlet, which
Savage sold fbr two g^nineas, to enable them to pay the reckonmg. Among the strag-
gling booses here was the school kept by a Roman Catholic convert named Deane,
where Pope spent nearly two years of his boyhood; and g^t up a play ont of Homer,
the part of Ajax being performed by the gardener.
"Towards Hide Pturk" was 'Winstanley's mathematical water-theatre, mentioned
in the noier. No. 74 (Sept. 29, 1709) : it had a windmill at the top ; and the qnantity
of water used in the exhibition was from 200 to 300 tnns^ " with which carious effects
prodnced by hydraulic pressure were exhibited in the evening.** Evdyn speaks of
Winstanley, who built the first Eddystone Lighthouse; and of another mechanical
genius^ Sir Samuel Morland, who writes from his " hut near Hyde Park Gate.'*
North Sidb. — Aptley Souse, east of Hyde Park Qate, is described at pp. 541-543.
No. 142, Lord WUloughby de Eresby's manaon, was sold in 1866 for 25,250^^ crown
lease, forty years ; in the same year its works of art realized upwards of 90002.
At No. 145, the Marquis of Northampton, as President of the Royal Society, gave his
eonvertctdofU, No. 147, the Baron Lionel de Rothschild's (tee p. 547), is partly built
upon the site of the mansion of William Beckford, the author of Vatiek, At
Nos. 138 and 189, Piccadilly, lived the Duke of Queensbnry, "Old Q.," the voluptuous
millionaire, who ^ed at the age of eighty-six. At No. 138, in 1865, waa dispersed
the valuable collection formed by the late Earl of Cadogan of plate; Sevres, Chelsea,
Dresden, and ptbcr porcelain; antiquities, and objects of art and rirtu, many of
historic interest ; the old silver plate brought from one to three guineas per oc
No. 187, QUmcester House, is described at p. 549. Next is Park Lame, formerly
Tyburn-lane. Twenty years since, or thereabout, the Duke of Wellington was
walking up the narrow roadway of Park-lane, when, opposite Gloucester House, a
carter came along with a country wagon and team of horses : he called to the Duke^
who, being very deaf, did not hear the man, who had very nearly, with his wain,
thrown down and driven over the hero of a hundred fights. Opposite, in the Green
Park, was the Deputy-Ranger's Lodge, built by Robert Adam, 1768, taken down,
1841 ; the pair of gleeful stags upon the g^te-piers, placed there by Lord William
Gordon, when Deputy-Ranger, was removed to the piers of Albert Gate, Hyde Park.
* East of Hertford House, " near the Qaeen's Mead Hooae, in H^de-park-road,** was the leaden
llfrnre-yard established br John Van Noet, who came to England with King William III. A fiiroQrite
garden figure was an African kneeling with a snn-dial on his head, sach as we see to this day in the
garden of Clement's Inn, and oommonly said to hare been brooght from Italy liy Lord Qant
FICGADILLY. 671
At the comer of Down-street (leading to Mat Faib, see p. 564), is the mansion of
Mrs. Hope, described at p. 551 ; and farther east. No. 106, CotENTBY HousB
{tee p. 246), closed as a dab, March, 1854; No. 105, Hibitobs House, p. 550;
No. 94, Cakbbidgb Hovss, p. 547; No. 82, Bath Housb, p. 544; Deyokbhibb
Hovss, p. 548.*
Hr. Hope died at his maatlon, in Piccadilly. He was the eldest son of the wealthy capitalist of
Amsterdam (the aathor ot A.na$tathu), by Misa Bereiford, yoongett daughter of Lord Dedes, Archbishop
of Tjuana, who married secondly the late Marshal Viscount Beresford. He was oonse<iuently brother of
Mr. Adnan Hope, of the banking firm at Amsterdam^and of Mr. Alexander Beresford Hope. He sat in
fast liooe and GIoi
' Dake of Newcastle. Mr. Hope was oz
of the London and Westminster Joint^tock Bank; and the first Chairman of the Great Easton Steam-
Parliament for East Looe and Gloacester» and was a Conservative in x>olitics. fiUs only child msrried,
" jrii
in 1861, the Earl of_Lincoln, now Dake of ^Newcastle. Mr. Hope was one of the earliest promoters
of the London ~ "
ship Company.
Satf-nuxm-ttreet was built in 1780, and was named from the Malf-moon Ale-houte
at the comer. Clarffes-street was baUt 1717-18, and named from Sir Walter Clarges.
At the flonth-weat comer is the mansion of the Dake of Grafton, designed by Sir
Robert Taylor : here is the magnificent Lonyre portrait of Charles I. on his horse, by
Vandyke. At No. 12, Clargea-fitreet, Uved for eight years Edmund Eean, the tragedian^
who kept in the house a tame puma. Next door, at No. 11, lived Lady Hamilton at
the time of Lord Nelson's death.f BoUon^reet was in 1708 "the moat westerly
street in London, between the road to Enightsbridge south, and the fields north**
{Hatton), Here lived the Earl of Peterborough, who, in his autobiography (for-
tunately never printed), confesses ha^g committed three capital crimes before he was
twenty years of age.
No. 80, Piccadilly, was the house from which Sir Francis Hurdett was taken into
costody, April 6, 1810, by the Serjeant-at-Arms, after a resistance of four days :
" The ladT she sate and she played on her Inte,
Ana she sung, * Will yon come to the bower P*
The seijeant*at4ains had stood hitherto mate.
And now he advanced, like an impndent brnte.
And said, * WiU you come to the Tower?' "
In the riot which ensued, the Life Guards charged the mob, whence they got the flash
echriquet ** HccadiUy Butchers."
Str<Ut<m-^ireet was named from the Stratton line of the Berkeleys, on whose estate
it was built. No. 1 was the mansion of Mrs. Coutts, the widow of the rich banker,
and afterwards Duchess of St. Albans, " who brought back the dukedom to the point
from wluch it set out^-the stage" (Leiffh Sun£). By her gprace the mansion was
bequeathed, with the greater portion of her immense wealth, to Miss Angela Burdett
Coutts, youngest daughter of Sir Francis Burdett, Bart.
JBerkeley-ttreet, built in 1642, and then the extremity of I^ccadilly, was named from
Berkeley House, on the site of Devonshire House. Dover-Hreet was built about 1688,
upon the estate of Henry Jermyn, Lord Dover, who resided on the east side; as did
John Evelyn, who had been ''oftentimes so cheerful, and sometimes so sad, with
Chancellor Hyde " on that very ground. On the west side lived Dr. John Arbuthnot,
physician to Queen Anne, " Martinus Scriblerus," and the friend of Pope, Swift, Gay,
and Prior. No. 37, sculptured with a mitre, is the town-house of the Bishop of Ely.
At No. 38 lived Lord King, who wrote a life of his profound kinsman, John Locke ;
published 1829. Alhemarle-rtreei was built by Sir Thomas Bond, of Peckham, on
part of the site of Clarendon House. In 1708 it was " a street of excellent new
buildings^ inhabited by persons of quality, between the fields and Portugal-street."
"The earliest date now to be fonnd npou the site of Clarendon Hooae is cnt in stone, and lot into
the south wall of a pnhUc-hona^ the sign of I%0 Duke qf Albntarle in Dover-street, tnus : 'This is
* The ticket of admission to the performances of the Guild o/ZUeraiure and AH (first given at
Devonshire Hoose, 1861), was designed by £. M. Ward. A.B.A. On the left is Richard Wilson, the
painter, with a tdctore under his arm, entering a pawnbroker's shop. On the right is Daniel Defoe
coming out of Ecunmid Cnrll's shop, with the manuscript of Bobiruon Cnuoe in his hand: his wife is
inquiring as to his success in selling the manuscript, and her little girl is standing in front. In the
centre foreground are grouped a palette, brushes, and books ; and at tne top is a kneeling child smelling
a rose, and another pouring water into aroee-bad.
t In 1858 were added to the MSS. in the British Museum 63 autograph letters of Lord Nelson,
addressed to Lady Hamilton, from 1798 to 1805 ; including the last letter Nelson ever wrote, found in
his cabin, after the battle of Trafalgsr, October 21st, 1806.
672 CURIOSITIES OF LONDON,
SUfford-rtnet, 1666w' In a pUn of London etched by HoUar, in 1686, it U evident that the
Clarendon Honae most hare occupied the whole of the site of Staflford-etreet."— Smith's
Clarendon House was commonoed by Lord Chanoellor CUrendon in 1664^ "enoao-
nged thereto by tbe royal grant of land, by the opportanity of porrhawing tlie stones
which had been designed for the repairs of St. Paul's, and by that passion for bnflding
to which he was naturally too much inclined." {Evelyn^) Aboat the same lame.
Lord Berkeley began to boild Berkeley Hoose on the west; and Sir John Denham,
Barlington House on the east* Daring the war and the plagae year, Clucndon
employed aboat 300 workmen, which raised a great outcry agunst him : " some called
it ' Dunkirk House,' intimating that it was built by his share of the price of Dunkirk :
others called it ' Holland Hoose,' because he was believed to be no friend to the war ;
so it was given out that he had the money from the Dutch. It was viable that in a
time of public calamity he was buil<Hng a very noble palace." {BumeL) Pepys
records that some rude people, in 1667, "had been at my Lord ChaneeUor's^ where
they cut down the treen before his house and broke his windows ; and a gibbet either
set up before or punted upon hii gate, and these words writ : ' Three sights to be
seen — Dunkirk, Tangier, and a barren queen/ " He was lampooned also in one of the
State Poena, entitled " Clarendon's House-warming." The day before his lordship's
flight, Evelyn ** fSrand him in his garden at his new-built palace, sitting in his gowt
wheele-chayre, and seeing the gates setting up towards the north and the fields. He
looked and spake very disconsolately. Next morning I heard he was gone." Evelyn,
dining at Clarendon House with the Lord Chancellor's ddest son. Lord Combarr,
after his Other's flight, deecribes the mansion as " now bravely frumished, espedally
with the pictures of most of our English and modem wits, poets, philoaopberst fiunoos
and learned Englishmen ;" most of these pictures have been brought from Combuiy,
a seat of the Earls of Clarendon, Oxon, to the Qrove, Watford, Herts.
Clarendon House was subsequently let to the g^reat Duke of Ormond. After Lord
Clarendon's death in exile, it was sold, in 1675, for 26,0002. to the young Duke of
Albemarle, who soon parted with it to Sir Thomas Bond, by whom the mansioTt was
taken down, and Bond-Street and Albemarle'lmUdinge (now street) and Ste^fbrdrstreei
were built upon the site. A map in the Crowle Pennant shows the entranee-gate to
the court-yard to have been in Piccadilly, directly opposite St. James's-street; and the
grounds to have extended to the site of Bruton-street. Two Corintluan jnlasters,
long preserved, at the Three Kingi^ Inn gateway. No. 76, in Piccadilly, are believed to
have belonged to Clarendon House ; the name is preserved in the Clarendon Sotel^
bnilt upon a portion of the gardens between Albemarle and Bond-streets.
** All the waste eronnd at the npper end of Albemarle and Dover-itreete is pnrehased hj tlie Doke
of Grafton and the £arl of Grantham, for gardening; and the road there leading to Maj Fair is otdcred
to be tamed."— The Brituh Jowmal, March 90, 172S. (This porchase is commemorated in Oreftom-
street.)
In Albemarle-8treet> at an apothecary's, lodg^ Dr. Berkeley when he was made
Dean of Derry. lUchard Glover, the merchant-poet^ who wrote "Leomidas" and
"Admiral Hosier's Qhost," ^cd here in 1785. On the east nde is the Boyal
Institution ; the columnar &^de by L. VuUiamy, 1838, adapted from the remains of
Hars Ultor and Jupiter Stator, and the Pantheon at Rome. No. 23 is the ArrasD
Club-house {see p. 240). At No. 60, since 1812, have lived Jolm Murray, fiither
and son, publishers; the former, "the friend and publislier of Lord Byron,'' died
1843. Opposite is Qrillion's Hotel, where Louis XVII I. sojourned in 1814: here and
at the Cliuendon were held the Roxburghe Club Dinners.
Bond^street was commenced in 1686 by Sir Thomas Bond, Bart., Comptroller of
the Household to Queen Henrietta-Maria. "Bond-street loungers, who pass from
2 till 6 o'clock," are mentioned in the Weekly Journal, June 1, I7l7. At No. 41,
"at the Silk-Bag Shop," died, March 18, 1768, Laurence Sterne* broken-hearted,
neglected, and in debt : some of the most touching scenes in Tom Jones are laid at
Mr. Allworth/s lodgings in Bond-street. Here lodged James Boswell when he gave a
dinner to Johnson, Goldsmith, Reynolds, and Oarrick. No. 27 was the library of Ebers,
who in seven years lost 44^080^. by the Italian Opera-house, Haymarket. Na 10 has
a large billiard-room, punted 1850 in encaustic by E. F. Lambert, with panels bordered
with arabesques; the principal subjects being Bacchus and Ariadne^ Hebe^ "Willie
PICCADILLY. 673
brew'd a peck o' maut/' " Let me tbe cannikin dink," and the " Wassail bowl." The
tastefnl house-front, No. 21, was designed by the Inwoods, architects of St. Fftncras*
Charch, Eoston-road.
In 1706, the numslon, now the Clarendon Hotel, was let bj the Doke of Qrafton to Mr. Pitt (Earl of
Chatham), for his town hoaae. M. Qrillion, proprietor of the Clarendon Hotel, was once rather nnez-
pectedlj bonoored hj the Tisit of two guests, the French ex-Qoeen Am^lie and Ihrince Napolten J^rdme.
0*0 each the presence of the other was made known, bat the ex-Qoeen scknowledged the right of the
Prince to be In the hoteL The Prince, like a gentleman, ofibred to withdraw if his presence gare the
venerable lady any displeasnre j bat the ex-Qaeen woald not hesr of his being pat to any inconvenience.
The delicacy and coartesy of M. Orilllon were taxed, but stood the test. The Clarendon has more issoes
than one, and the worthy host eontrlved that the two Ulnstrioas personages shovJd never find them*
■elres on the same stainwe.— iUAm^iMi, No. 2001.
Burlington Gardens, originally ** Ten- Acres Fields," extended from Bond-street to
Swallow-street : here is UxBBiDaB HousB, noticed at p. 557 : here died, April 29,
1854^ Field-Marshal the Marqnis of Anglesey, E.O., aged 86. In Cork*Hreet the
Earl of Borlington designed for Field-Marshal Wade a boose with a beantifhl front, ill-
contrived inude to snit a large cartoon by Rubens, bnt in vain : Lord Chesterfield ssid
that " to be sare he (the Marshal) conld not live in it^ bnt intended to take the house
over against it, to look at it" (WalpoU), At the sonth-east comer of Chraftonstreet
was the book-shop of Benjamin Tabart, who published so many pretty pictnre-bookf
fbr children. At tbe comer of CUfford-Hreet was the Gifibrd-street Club {tee p. 246).
New Bond-streei site was in 1700 an open field called Conduit-mead (now street),
from the Conduit there, remains of which were found in 1867, in excavating large
wine-cellars for Mr. Basil Woodd, at Xos. 34 and 35, New Bond-street : these cellars
cover more than one*third of an acre, and will contain upwards of half a million
bottles of wine. At No. 141, Lord Nelson lodged in 1797. At No. 21 was exhibited,
" Napoleon at St. Helena," painted by Haydon for Sir Bobert Peel, and upon which
Wordsworth wrote his memorable sonnet.
In Piccadilly, east of Old Bond-street, are the BtraiJirGTOK Abcadb (eee p. 20), and
BxTBLiHC^TON UouBB (eee p. 545). No. 52, adjoining, are the Albany Chambere, let in
snites to single gentlemen. The centre, designed by Sir William Chambers, was sold
in 1770, by Lord Holland, to the first Viscount Melbourne, who exchanged it with
the Dnke of York fbr Melbourne, now Dover, House, Whitehall. In 1804 the mansion
in I^ocadHly was altered and enlarged, and first let in chambers, named Albany from
the second title of the Duke of York. The ceilings of the mannon were painted for
Lord Melbourne by CHpriani, Wheatley* and Rebecca. In chambers here have lived
George Canning, M. G. (Monk) Lewis, Lord Byron, Lord Lytton, Lord Macaulay,
and Lord John Manners. Upon the site were originally the houses of the Earl of
Sunderland, Su: John Clarges, and Lady Stanhope, with liu^ gardens.
Saekvills'-ttreet is the longest street in London without a turning : at the comer
house, east, opposite St. James's Church, died Sir WiUiam Petty, the earliest writer
on the science of political economy in England, and ancestor of the Lansdowne family :
a letter from Sir William Petty to Pepys is dated Piccadilly, September, 1687. Tbe
Dilettanti Club met at The Prince, in this street, in 1783.
Siealhw-etreet is named fhim " SwoUow Close," part of the crown lands granted to
Lord Chancellor Clarendon : here was the oldest Scottish Presbyterian church in the
metropolis, and rebuilt {tee p. 222). Swallow-street originally extended northward to
Ty bum-road, from the centre of the present Regent-street. St. James's Hall is
described at pp. 426-427. Ayr or Air-ttreet was in 1659 the most westerly street.
South Sidb. — Hyde Park Comer tnrapike-gate was removed in 1825. The long
dead wall of the Park (now open railing) was hung with ballads; here robberies after
dark were frequent.
ArUngton-ttreet, ^ a very graceful and pleasant street" {EaMon, 1708), was built
upon the property of Henry Bennet, Earl of Arlington, about 1689: hence, also^
Bennet-ttreet, In Arlington-street lived the Duchess of Cleveland, after the death of
Charles II.; Lady Mary Wortley Montague, before her marriage; William Pulteney,
Earl of Bath, on the west side, next door to Sir Robert Walpole, where was bom
Horace Walpole, who wrote in 1768, "From my earliest memory, Arlington-street
has been the ministerial street ;" in 1750 he records a highwayman attacking a post*
chaise in Piccadilly, at 11 o'clock on a Sunday night, and escaping. Upon the site
X X
674 CURIOSITIES OF LONDON.
of Walpole's home Kent bnilt No. 17, for Felham the Minirter, the house wiv the
Earl of Yarhorough'f. Lord Nelson lodged in this ftreet m 180(V-1, when Ledj
Nelion lepanted from him. At No. 16 (the Dnke of Rutiand's), the Ihike of Yorl^
icoond ion of George III., ky nek, from August 26, 1826, to his death, Jan. 6, 1827,
as touchingly narrated hy Sir Herhert Taylor. No. 26, BsAinPOBT Hovbb, was in
1854 sold to the Dnke of Hamilton. The booses on the west nde of the street oom-
mand a charming view of the Qreen Park.
St. Jamss'b-btbeet, Bwry-Hreet, Jermyn^reei, KingsUreet, and St. Jan^e^s-plaet,
are described at pp. 480-488.
Na 160, Piccadilly, is the entrance to the Wellington Dhiing-Hoose (formerly Crod:-
ford's Clnb). The EoTPTUir Hall is described at p. 319.
At No. 169, Wright, the pnblisher of the Anti^aoMn, kept shop, which was the
resort of the fiiecds of the Ministry, as Debretf s was of the Opposition. In a first-
floor met the editors of the AnH-JacoHn, indading Canning, Frere, and Pitt ; with
Qifford as working editor, and Upcott (Wrighf s assistant) as amaniiensis. (See Notes
and Queries ; and Posiry of the Anti-Jaeohin, new edition, 1854b) In Wrigfht's sbop^
Peter Hndar (Wolcot) was castigated by GifTord. No. 177 was the shop of William
Pickering, the eminent publisher, whose title-pages hear the Aldine andior: his
valuable stock of old books, rare works on angling, modem oopyrights and reprints,
was dispersed in 1854b No. 182 (Fortnnm and Mason's) is designed ftom a manaon
at Padua, renovated and altered. The Mubsum of Pbaotical Gsoloot is described
at p. 595. In the Inventory of Rich's Theatrical Properties (Taller, July 16, 1709)
is " Aurung^be's scymitar, made by Will. Brown in Piccadilly.'' Regent Ctrcms {see
Ksoxkivstrebt).
No. aoi, PlocadiUy, is the Si. Jamet"* CMUn vf Art, where in exhibited a most lemaxkable eoDee^
tl<m of pictares prindpsllT In Wster-Coloon, punted by E. Fa^on Wstwn, from nature; moetlj seoei
of rural life, one nandred m number : they anite wliditj with brilliancy of colour, and are dbtJu^okiied
br the moat elaborate care and delicacy of manipalatum ; the foliage, flowery and grasaea (eapecuDy
the feme), are of microaoopic aoenracy, and the atmoephere of remarkable transpaiencr aiid charao-
teristic beaaty. Many of them are eieoated in a new style in the practice of the art, whicn la the aitisf ■
aecret" They were painted in the leisure of a Ufe-timo, and are unquentionably exquisite works of art^
St. James's Chubch is described at p. 169 : in 1867 the interior was renovated and
altered according to Wren's original intention : it has two large sunlights in the cdling.
Nollekens, the sculptor, when a boy, with Sdieemakers, the sculptor, in Vine^treet, ** bad an uUe
propensity for bell-tolling, and in that art, for which many allowed him to have a superior talent, be
would ftequently indulge oy running down George-court to St James's Church, to know how fimerals
went on. Whenever hu master missed him, and the dead-bell was tolling, he knew perfectly wdl what
Joey was at."— Smith's lAfe <^IfolUken».
PICTURE GALLERIES (PUBLICf).
NATIONAL GALLERY (The), on the north side of Tra&lgar-square, was bnilt
between 1832 and 1838, fit)m the design of Professor Wilkins, R.A., and was
his latest work. Its length is 461 feet, and the greatest width 56 feet ; and it is
bnilt partly with the materials of the King's Mews, tiie site of which it occupies. The
best feature is the centre, the Corinthian columns of which are from the portico of
Carlton House, and are adapted from the Temple of Jupiter Stator at Borne.* This
portico has interior columns, the only example in the metropolis ; and the view com-
mands the broad vista of Parliament-street and Whitehall, and the picturesque towers
of the Palace at Westminster. But the Qallery central dome is ill-proportioned and
puny ; and the corresponding cupolas upon the wings are poor imitations of Vanhrugh's
embellishment of private manaons. Through the eastern wing is a thoroughfiiTe to
Duke's-court, claimed by the inhabitants as a right of wag long ei\iqyed by them
through the King's Mews. The vestibule is ^vided, by screens of scagliola columns
(with scenic effect), into two halls ; and from each is a staircase leading to the upper
floors, each a suite of five rooms. The eastern wing is appropriated to the Botal
ACADEHT OF AsTS, which sce. The western wing is occupied by the national col-
lection of pictures. The ground-floor is mostly official apartments, but was originally
intended as a depository for public records.
In the hall are S. Joseph's marble statue of Sir David Wilkie, B.A., with his palette
* A complete set of casts finom these ifaie tpecfasens of snds&t srt exists in the Moseom of Mr. Joseph
OwUt, FJBA.. Abhigdon-streett Westminster.
PICTURE OALLEBIES (PUBLIG). 675
inserted beneath glam in the pedestal; a fine alto-relievo, in marble, by T. Banks, R.A.y
of Thetis and her Nymphs rising from the Sea to condole with AduUes on the loss of
Patroclos ; a bronze bnst of the Emperor Napoleon; and a marble bust of William
Molready, ILA., by H. Weekes. B.A.
The National Gallery was foonded in 1824> by the purchase of Mr. Angerstein's
collection of pictures for 57,0002. : it is said, npon the saggestion of George IV. ; but
it originated equally in Sir C^eorge Beaumont's offer, in 1823, to the Trustees of the
British Museum, to present his collection to the public The Angersteln pictures (38)
were first exhibited in the house of Mr. Angerstein, 100, Pall Mall, May 10, 1824;
-whither Sir George Beaumonfs 16 pictures were transferred in 1826. In 1831,
85 pictures were bequeathed by the Kev. W. Holwell Carr ; in 1836, 6 pictures were
presented by William IV.; 17 bequeathed in 1837 by Lieut-CoL Ollney; 15 be-
queathed in 1838 by Lord Famborough ; 14 bequeathed in 1846 by R. Simmons :
and the Gallery has since been Increasedf by donations, bequests, and comparatively
few Government purchases, to about 495 pictures ; independently of the Vernon and
Turner collections.
The current expenses connected with the National Gallery amount to an annual
sum of 15,8942., of which the Director receives lOOOZ., and the Keeper and Secretary
7502. The establishment at Trafalgar-square costs 15232., of which 3272. is given to
curators, and 7862. to police. A sum of 6212. is spent at South Kensington, 20002. is
allowed fbr travelling expenses, agency, &c., and 10,0002. for the purchase of pictures.
The first Cataloffiie of the National Gallery, by W. Yoang Ottlej, hsi long been ont of print : tho
ftallest extant la bj B. N. Womum. Among the more notable pictoree are two Groups of Saints and tho
Baptism of Christ, (ele?en pictures,) brTaddeo GaddJ, palntM in tempera, bright colour upon a gold
background ; curious specimens of middle-age art
Italian Sekool: The Virgin and Child, with Saints and a Bead Christ (lunette) fVom an altar-piece,
bj Francesco Francia» earlj Bolognese School. Virghi and ChUd, with St. John, by P. Perugino; divinely
holy in character and expression. The Haislng of Lazarus, by Sebastian del Piombo : the figure of
I^mms by Mldiael Augelo. St. Catherino of Alexandria, the ^sion of a Knight, portrait of Pope
Julius II., and fragment of a Cartoon of the Murder of the Innocents, by Baphael ; and the Madonna,
Jnfluit Christ, and John, (Oarvagh Raphael, 9000<.) Three of Correggio s greatest works : Mercury in-
•tructing Cupid in Uie presence of Venus : the Ecce Homo ; and the Holy Family (La Vierge an Panicr) :
the three pictures cost 1^400{. A Holy Family, Noli me tangere, and Bacchus and Ariadne, by Titian.
Susannah and the Elders, by Ludovico (?araccll Eight works of Annlbale Caracd: Silcnus gathering
Grapes ; Pan (or Silenus) teaching Apollo to plaron the Beed ; and Christ appearing to St Peter. Nine
iKTorcs of Guido, including Susannah and the Elders; Andromeda and the " Ecce Homo." Ten works of
Claude (Landscapes and Seaports), including the Chlgi and Bouillon Claudes, the latter the Embarkation
of the Queen of Sheba. A fine Landscape (Mercury and the Woodman) by Salvator Rosa. Gaston do
Foiz, by Giorgione. The Madonna and Child enthroned, with Saints John and Christopher, with the
Doge (xiovanni Mocenigo, in adoration, by Vittore Carmceio. St Bock with the Ansel, by Paolo
Morando. Venetian Senator, bv Francesco Bonsiniori. The Madonna, Infknt Christ ana St Anne, by
liibri. Madonna in Praye^ and Madonna and ChUd, br Saaso Ferrato. Christ and his Disciples going
to Emmaus, by Melone. Milanese Nobleman, l^ Solario. " Ecce Hom<^" by La Spagna.
SpmtUk School: Philip IV. of Spain hunting the Wild Boar, Portrait of Philip, the Nativity, (in the
3if anger,) and the Dead warrior, by Vehuquez. The Holy Family, St John with the Lamb, and the
Spanish Peasant-boy, by Murillo.
W^tmiik School : Portraits of a Flemish Gentleman and Lady, in a bedchamber ; under the mirror it
written "Johannes de Eyck fidt hlc, 1434." Nine works of Bnbens: including the Sabine Women;
Peace and War, presented to Charles I. by Bubens, in 1690 ; the Braxen Serpent ; St BaTon, harmonious
Bod picturesque ; Bubens's own Chitean ; the Judgment of Paris, from the Orleans Collection ; and tho
Apotheosis of James I., sketched for the Whitehall ceiling. Vandyke's magnificent St. Ambrosius and
the Emperor Theodosius ; and the same painter's " Oevartins," or Vander Geest a portrait scarcely
«qaalled in the worid,— but by some attributed to Bubans. The Woman taken in Adultery, one of
Bombrandt's finest early works; Christ taken down from the Cross; Christ blessing little Children;
his Adoration of the l^epherds ; a Woman Bathing: and three of his marvellous portraits. A sunny
I^andscape, with cattle and figures, br Cnyp. The Misers, or Money-changers, bv David Teniers.
f^»neh School: Eight works of Nicholas Poussin, Including two Bacdianallan Festivals, and the
Plague of Ashdod, very fine. Also, six works of Gaspar Poussin, including his masterpiece, a Landscape
with Abraham and Isaac; and his fine classical picture of Dido and iSneas in a Storm.
JBnglish SdU)ol : Sun rising in a Mist, and Diao building Carthage, by J. M. W. Turner. Mr- T/cwis,
the comedian, ** Gentleman Lewis," by M. A. Shce, bequeathed by the son of Mr. Lewis, with 10,000/. in
xnonoy, the proceeds, about 900^ a year, to be laid out in the improvement of the Fine Arti.
The Tubksb Pictubxs are arranged chronologically, and comprehend three
distinct atyles,moBt\j correaponding with Tamer's three visits to Italy in 1819,1829, and
1810. The first period reaches to his 27th year, when he was forming a style, by
studying his English predecessors, Wilson, Loatherhoorg, and Gainshorough ; his
earliest oil-pictures resemble those of Wilson in style. In the second period, 1802 to
1830, Tnrner is seen at first as a follower of Claude and Gaspar Poussin, and then
striking ont a style of landscape*paintiug, entirely original, and wholly unrivalled for
brilliancy of colouring and effect; the majority of his greatest woriu belong to that
X z 2
676 CURIOSITIES OF LONDON.
period* from bis Calaif I^er, 1803, to the UlyBses deriding Polyphemna, 1829. In bis
third period, dated from 1880» during the last twenty years of his life, ererytlmig dse
wan sacrificed to the splendour of light and colour ; yet some of Turner's finest works
belong to this period — as his CbUde Harold's Pilgrimage, 1832, and the T&nenire,
1889. The Turner pictures, as arranged by Mr. Womum, have been hung in the wesi
room of the Kational Gallery.
RoTAL Academy ov Abtb (the) occupies the east wing of the National Galleiy,
already described. The Academy originated in a Society of Artists in P^ter's-ooort,
8t. Martin's-lane.* With its apparatus Hogarth established the Society of Incoipo-
rated Artists, who held their first Exhibition at the house of the Society of Arts, in
the Adelphi, April 21, 1760 ; next in Spring Gardens. In 1768 certain artists seceded
from the Society, were constituted a " Royal Academy," removed to Pall Mall, and
elected Reynolds president (at the first Exhibition, in 1769, there were 136 pictures,
and only three sold) ; and Qeorge III. granted them, in 1771, apartments in Old
Somerset House.
The Foundation consists of 40 Royal Academicians ; 20 Assodates, frt>m whom the
members are chosen to fill up yacancies; and six Associate Engravers. The Academi-
cians elect from among themselves annually the President ; they also appoint a Secre-
tary and Keeper. The Council of eight members elect among the body Professors <^
P&inting, Sculpture, and Architecture ; and appoint a P*rofesBor of Anatomy, who must
be a surgeon. Dr. Johnson was first President of Andent Literature ; and Dr. Gold-
smith, Professor in Ancient History, was succeeded by Edward Gibbon. lioctares are
delivered to the students and exhibiting artists, free of expense : and prize medals are
awarded biennially and annually. Students are also sent to Rome at the expense of
the Academy. The members are under the superintendence and CGntrol of the Queen,
who confirms and signs all appointments.
Among the Foandation Membera of the Acsdemy were Sir Joshua Reynoldf (PmuIcaO; Sir William
Chambers, the architect of Somerset House ; Gainsborough and Wilson, the eminent landscape-paintera ;
Bei^amin West ItJu a*eond Fretident); Joseph Wilton, the scalptor; F. Bartoloxii, the ennaver;
Charles Catton, Master of the Painter-Stainers' Company; and Angelica Kanflknann and ULaxj H^ner. —
(Sm Zofbny's Fieiure qfiht Soyal Acad^mieiatu, 1773.)
Upon the rebuilding of Somerset House, apartments in the western wing were given
to the Academicians ; and the first Exhibition here was opened May, 1780.
The JUbraty ceiling waa painted by Sir Joshua Reynolds and Cipriani : the centre, br Rernoliis,
represents **the Theory of Fainti^,''^ a majestic female, holding compasses and a label inscribed,
** Theory is the knowledge of what is truly nature." The four compartments, by Cipriani, were per^
soniflcations of Nature. History, Allegorr, and Fable. The Cotateil^fwrn was painted by West : centre,
the Graces unveiling Nature, surrounded by figures of the Four Elements : oval picturea of InTentxoo.
Composition, Design, and Colouring, by Angelica KaufRnann: medallions of Apellos, Phidias, ApoUodcraa,
and Archimedes; and a circle of cUarosouro medallions of Palladio» Bernini, Michael Angelo, fiammingo,
Baffaelle, Domenichino, Titian, and Bubens, painted by Rebecca.
Horace Walpole writes to Uaaon :— " Tou know, I suppose, that the Royal Academy at Somerset
House is opened. It is quite a Roman palace, and finished in perfect taste, as well as boundless ezpexise.
QaiusboTough has five landscapes there, of which one especially is worthy ofany ooUectioQ and
of any painter that ever existed.** walpole's copy of "the Exhibition Catalogue'* for 1780 exhibits
against the landscapes by Gainsborough MS. expressions of '* charming,*' " rery spirited,** " as admirable
as the great masters."
In 1888 the Academy removed to the National Gallery. They possess a library of
prints, and books on art (see p. 464), which is open to students. Here are also aeyeral
pictures by old masters. The School for Drawing from the Antique is held in the
Sculpture-room ; the School for Painting in the West-room ; and the School for Draw-
ing from the Life-model is held in the interior of the dome of the edifice. In the Hall
of Casts (mostly presented by G^rge IV., and procured through the intenrention of
Canova) are a b^utiful group of Niobe and her Daughters ; the graceful Mercury of
the Vatican ; Fauns with their Cymbals ; the Egyptian Jupiter, and the Olympian ;
Apollo and the Muses; the Laoooon; the Fighting and Dying Warrior; a mutilated
remnant of a statue of Theseus, &c. Upon the ceiling of the Council-room are the
paintings, by Sir Joshua Reynolds and other Academicians, transferred frtnn the labrary
and Council-room at Somerset House.
* This Society (according to Edwards) was formed tnm a " Life School.*' or Living Model Academ j,
which was established in the house of Peter Hyde, a painter, in Qreyhouiid-oourt, between M iirord-laae
and Amndel-street, Strand, under the direction of Mr. Moeer, afterwards the first Keeper of the Royal
Academy. The School removed to Peter'sHX>Qrt about 1739. The houses in Greyhouad-coazt were
taken down between 1861 and 1864
PICTURE GALLEBIIJ8 (PUBLIC). 677
The Diploma Pictures and Sculptures (each member presenting a work of art npon
his election) are placed in the Council-room, and include Sir Joshua Reynolds' full-
length portrait of (George III. ; Fuseli's " Thor battering the Serpent of Midgard in
the boat of Hymer the GKant;" a Rustic Qirl, by Lawrence ; the Tribute-Money, by
Copley; Charity, by Stothard; Jael and Sisera, by Northcote; the Falling Giant, by
Bcmks ; and Apollo and Marpessa, and a cast of the Shield of Achilles, by Flaxman ;
Christ blessing little Children, by West ; Boys digging for a Rat, by Wilkie ; Opie's
Infancy and Age; portrait of Qainsborough, by himself; Sir William Chitmbers, by
Reynolds ; and Sir Joshua in his doctor's robes, by himself. Cupid and Psyche, by
NoUekens ; bust of Flaxman, by Baily ; West, by Chantrey, &c.
There ai'e, alro, a celebrated copy, size of the original, of the Last Supper, by
Leonardo da Vinci, made by his pupil, Marco d'Oggione; copies of the Descent from
the Cross, and the two Volets, by Rubens, made by Guy Head ; and copies of the
Cartoons of Raffaelle, by Thomhill, — the size of the originals. Also, small copies in
oil of the frescoes by Raffaelle in the Vatican ; two fine Cartoons (the Holy Family
and St. Anna, and Leda) by L. da Vinci ; bas-relief in marble of the Holy Family, by
Michael Angelo, presented by Sir George Beaumont, &c Among the memorials pre-
fserred by the Academy are two palettes of Reynolds and Hogarth. The Diploma
Pictures, &c., may be seen by application in writing to the Keeper of the Gallery.
The Exhibition is opened annually on the first Monday in May ; admisuon 1^., cata-
logue Is, : it closes the last week in July ; but there is an after-eidiibition. All works
sent for exhibition are submitted to the Council, whose dedsion is finaL The receipts
at the door have reached, in one season, 11,600^.
The qualifications for becoming a Student of the Boyal Academy are, an approTed drawing or mode
1^ the applicant, and teatimony of his moral clioracter ; and next, an approved drawing or model of an
antique figure in the Academy, accompanied by outline drawings of an anatomical figure and skeleton,
not less than two feet high, with list, references, See. A shnilar rule applies to Architectural Students.
The Annual Dinner is given by the Academidans on Saturday previous to the open-
ing of the Exhibition, in the West Room, where hangs the massive chandelier presented
to the Academy by George IV.
Xastlake.
expended by the Boyal Academy, trom the commencement of the institution, in the gratuitous instrac"
tion of the students, general management, Ac., 218,46M. 6«^— paid in pensions to distressed and super-
annuated members and their widows, from 1802 to 1850, 28,739/. Of. 7d., donations to distressed and
superannuated artists and their families, firom 1768 to 1869, 82,772/. 6s. lOd. The balance in favour of
the Academy in 1867 was 104^499/. 10*. 8d.
A new Gallery for the Academy is in course of erection in the rear of Burlington
House, Piccadilly, which is to form the frontage of the Academy.
Thi Shisepshahxb' Pictubks, were, in 1857, by a deed of gift presented to the nation
"by Mr. Sheepshanks of Rutland-gate, and are deposited in a building erected for the
purpose at South Kensington.
It comprises 233 dl paintings, cabinet sise, ranging over a period of fifty years, and embradng very
choice examples of many of the most eminent painters of the time. The oollection is incidentally notieed
at page 604. A complete list appeared in the AthsiuBuvt, Na 1630. It Is especially rich in the works of
Jf ulready, Leslie, Landseer, wilkie, Stothard, and Webster. Of Mnlready there are 34 examples—
the earliest painted in 1806, the latest hi 1848 : among them is the fiunons Choosing the Wedding Oown.
By Leslie there are 24 pidntings. the best illustrations from Shakspeare, Moliere, and Sterne. By
Landseer there are 16 paintings, oesides drawlnn and sketches: the largMt picture is the Drover^
Departure— scene in the Grampians ; also the Old Shepherd's Chief Mourner. The five pictures bj
Turner include, the Tessel in distress oif Yarmouth ; and Yenieo. The only fine picture by Wilkie u
The Befusal— Duncan Grey. The six by Webster are all good examples. Stothard^ 10 pictures indnde
The Vebnoit Collsctiok ov the English Scbool, 162 pictures, temporarily ex-
hibited at South Kensington, was presented to the nation in 1847, by Mr. Robert Vernon,
who died at his house, No. bO, Pall Mall, May 22, 1849, in the 75th year of his age.
Among the pictures are : Sir Joshua Reynolds— the Age of Innocence (very fine), cost Mr. Vernon
14IS0 guineas. Uainsborough— Landscape : Sunset (fine). Richard Wilson— four small pictures (flue).
81r A. W. Callcott— Littlehampton Pier (fine). Wilkie— The Newsmongers (fine); The Bagpiper (fine).
678 0UBI08ITIE8 OF LONBON,
CoUint, RJu—HftDpy at a Kinff. J. M. W. Tuner, BJL— WlUivn III. landing at Torbay; CompontiGa
LandMMM (fine) ; Two Views in Yenioe (fine), aarlcson Staufleld, B.A.~Tbe Entrance to the Znydff
Zee (fine). David Roberta, R.A.— Interior of St Paoi's at Antwerp (fine). Sir Edwin Landaeer, BO.
^Peaoe and War (Peace Terr fine) : Hifrhland Piper and Dogs ; Spaniels of King Charlea'a breed ; the
Mng Stag ; High Life and liOW Life Dogs. W. Mnlready, R.A.— The Last In ; the Ford. T. Webster
B.A.— The Dame School (fine). D. Madise, B.A.— Play Scene in Hamlet. £. M. Ward, B.A.— Sooth
Sea Babble; Disgrace of Clarendon.
Both the above colieetions are open on Mondays, Tneadaya, and Satordaya, free; and
on Wednesdays, Thursdays, and Fridays (students' days) on payment of 6<i. each.
The National Pobtsait Gallsby, 29, Great George^treet, WestmiDster, was
established in 1856, with a Government grant for 20(X);., when the Earl of Ellesmere
presented the fiunons Chandos Shakspeare, which he had purchased at the Stowe sale
in 1848, for 865 guineas ; the Gallery has since been supported by an annual grant of
20(X)/. for purchases, and by donations of portraits of unquestionable importanoe,
subject to the approbation of the trustees without partisan or sectaxian excliuiTeiie&
Admission free on Wednesdays and Saturdays.
Ths National Fobtbait Exhibitiok of Pictures, obtained by loan, originated by
the Earl of Derby, was held in the new building at the South Kensington Musenm, in
the year 1866-7 ; the historic periods of the paintings extending from the twelfth
century to 1688; and in 1867, from 1688 to 1800.
BuLWiCH Gallbbt, founded by Sir Francis Bourgeois, R. A., who left to the Colle^
854 pictures, 10,OOOZ. to erect and keep in repair a building, and 2000/. to provide for
the care of the pictures : built by the suggestion of John Philip Kemble, the actor,
at Alleyn's College, Dulwich. {See p. 274.) The Murillos and Cuyps (19) are
especially fine. Teniers, 21 in all. Mrs. Sheridan and Mrs. Tickell, by Qainaboroiigh»
full-lengths, very fine. Mrs. Siddons, and his own portrait^ by Sir Joshua Re^ncddfl^
are indifferent duplicates. This is the only Collection free to the public whidi affisrds
an opportunity for studying the Dutch masters. Open each week ft«e, except Thursday
and Friday, charge Qd.
Among the private Picture Galleries of London are several to which access can be
obtained by accredited application, by letter, to the proprietor. Such are — ^the collec-
tion in Devonshire House {see p. 548), rich in Italian pictures, and more particularly
cf the Venetian school ; Sir Robert Peel's, of which Waagen speaks so highly as " a
series of iaultless pearls of the Flemish and Dutch schools;" the Bridgewater, formerly
the Staflbrd Gallery (p. 545), to which a great work in four folio volumes has been
specially dedicated, and which holds the first rank among English collections^ bong rich
in all schools — ^pre-eminently so in the highest, and containing above 300 pictures ; the
collection in Staflbrd Boose (p. 557), belonging to the Duke of Sutherland ; liOid
Ashburton's (p. 544) ; the Duke of Wellington's (p. 542) ; Mrs. Hope's (p. 551) ; and
the Marquis of Westminster's, better known as the Grosvenor Gallery (p. 550), one of
the wealthiest in the country in the works of Rembrandt, and the Dutch and Fiemidi
pointers, and containmg many and valuable works in all the other chief schodla.
JPIMLICO,
A NAME of g^ardens of public entertainment, often mentioned by our early dramatists^
and in this respect resembling " Spring Garden." In a rare tract, Nevee Jrom
Sogedon, 1598 : <* Have at thee, then, my merrie boys, and hey for old Ben Rmlico's
nut-browne I" and the place, in or near Hoxton, was afterwards named from him. Ben
Jonson has,
"A second Hogsden,
In dsys of Pimlioo and eye-bright."— Tie Alditmiti,
« Pimlico path " is a gay resort of his Bartholomew Fair ; and Meercraft in The Demi
it an Ams, says : —
** I'll have thee. Captain Gllthead, and march up
And take In PimUco, and kill the hash
At erery tavern."
In 1609 was printed a tract entitled Pimlico, or Frince Bed Cap, *tis a Ifad World at
Hogeden, The name is still preserved in " Rmlico Walk," from opposite St. John's
church to High-street, Hoxton, a "near cut" to the Britannia ThaUre. Sir Lionel
PLAQUE, TEE GREAT. 679
Bosh, in Greene's J^ Quoque, sends his daughter "as ftur as Pimlioo for a draught of
Derhy ale, that it may hring oolonr into her cheeks.'* Massinger mentions,
* EaUnff paddinr-piM on a Snndaj,
At PimUoo or Ii&ngton.''--C% ^adam.
Aubrey, in his Stirrey, speaks of " a Fimlico Garden on Bankside."
PncLioo, the district between Kmghtsbridge and the Thames, and St. James's Park
and Chelsea, was noted for its public gardens : as the Mulberry Garden, now part of the
rite of Buckingham Palace; the Dwarf Tavern and Gardens, afterwards Spring Gardens,
between Ebury-street and Belgrave-terrace ; the Star and Garter, at the end of Five-
Flelds-row, fiunous for its equestrianism, fireworks, and dandng ; and the Orange, upon
the site of St. Barnabas' church. Here, too, were Banelagh and New Ranelagh. But
the largest garden in Pimlioo was Jenny's Whim, to the left of the road over Ebury
(late the Wooden) Bridge, fbrmeMy Jenny's Whim Bridge. The rite is now covered
by St George's-row. The tavern was opened temp, George I. for fireworks, and in its
grounds were a pond fbr duck-hunting, garden-plots, alcoves, and grotesque figures :
it was a summer resort of the upper chuses; and a tract of 1755 is entitled "Jenny's
Whim, or a sure Guide to the Nobility and Gentry," Ac In hiter years it was fre*
qnented by crowds fhmi bull-baiting in the ady<nning fields. Among the old signs were
the Boff 0* NaUi, Arabella-row, from Ben Jonson's ''Bacchanals;" the Compauei, of
Cromwell's time (near Grosvenor-row) ; and the Oun Tavern and Tea-gardens, Queen's-
TOW, with its arbours, and costume figures, the last to disappear. Pimlico is still noted
for its ale-breweries.
Upon the verge of St. James's Park were Tart Hall, and ArUngton, subsequently
Buckingham, House, architect. Captain Wynde or Wynne, a native of Bergen-op-Zoom.
So lata aa 176S, Boekingham Honaa eigoyed aamii&temiiited proapeot loiiai and west to the rfrer,
there being only a few Mattered cottages, and the Stag BreweiT, between it and the Thamea.—
W, SardwtU,
Pimlioo contains the Belpra/oe district, including Belgrave, Eaton, and Chester
Squares, and the Oronenor-road ; beyond which the Seeletton sub-^rict of new
squares, terraces, and streets, extends to the Thames. Here are two churches in the
Early Decorated style: Holy Trinity, dose to Vauxhall Bridge; and St. Gabriel's*
Warwick-square, with a spire 160 feet high.
Ehuty Street and Square are named fVom Ebury Farm, 430 acres (lammas land)*
leased by Queen Elizabeth at 212. per annum.
In Lower Belgrave-place, comer of Eccleston-street, Sir Frands Chantrey, R.A.*
Bred 27 years^ and executed his finest busts, statues, and monuments : he died here
Nov. 25, 1841. Next door but one, at No. 27, lived Allan Cunningham, the poet, and
foreman to Chantrey.
In Stafford-row died. In 1796, BIdiard Tatea, the celebrated comedian, and teadier of acting, aged 89.
He waa found dead through dleappolntaBent of a dinner of eda, which ne ordered of hla hooacMcperf
but which ahe fldled to provide.
At Pimlico^ fkdng the south wing of Buddngham Fslaoe^ is the office of the Duchy
of Cornwall, fbrmerly at Somerset House. The site was purchased by the public firom
the land revennei^ at 4800^ and the building cost about 10,0002. The fronts are
mostly formed in cement, painted stone-colour. Here are managed the affiurs of the
Duchy of Cornwall, firom the revenues of which is derived more than half the income
of the Prince of "Wales.
Pimlico is also the name of a place near Clitheroe, in Lancashire ; Lord Orrery Qn
his Letters) mentions " Pimlicoe, Dublin;" and "Pemlico" is the name of a bird of
Barbadoei^ ** which presageth storms."^^ofos and Queriee, Nos. 29, 81, and 125.
FLAGITE, TSE GREAT.
LONDON has frequently suffered from the ravages of pestilence; and thousands and
tens of thousands of the inhabitants have been swept by its virulence into one
common grave. But at no period of its history was the mortdity so devastating as in
the year 1665, the "last great visitation," as it is emphatically entitled by Defoe in
his Journal of the Plague Tear. This work was originally published in 1722 : now,
m Defoe was only two years of age when the Qreat Pestilenoe oocarred, his JimnuU
680 CURIOSITIES OF LONDON,
was long considered as much a work of imagination as his SMnson Cnuoe; bat there
is abandant evidence of his having compiled the Journal fwai contemporaiy soorces;
as the Collection of all the Bilk of Mortality for 1665, published as London's Dread-
Jkl VUUaiicn ; the Loimologia of Dr. Hodges ; and Qod^M Terrible Vbiee in the Cii^,
by the Rey. Thomas . Vincent, 1667 ; and many of the events which De Foe records
derive collateral support from the respective Diaries of Pepys, Evelyn, and LordClarea-
don — works which were not published until very long after Defoe's decease, and the
manuscripts of which he could never have perused. Defoe is believed to have hem
fiuniliar with the manuscript Account of the Great Phigne by William BoghursU >
medical practitioner, formerly in the Sloane Collection, and now preserved in the British
Museum : it is a thin quarto manuscript of 170 pages, from which only a few eztracti
have been published. Boghurst was an apothecary in St. Qiles's-in-the-Fields; and he
states that be was the only person who had then (1666) written on the late Plague
from experience and observation. Rapin and Hume have recorded the event in little
more than a single sentence ; but Dr. Lingard has grouped the details of De Foe'i
Journal into a terrific picture, which has been compared to the celebrated delineation
of the Plague of Athens by Thucydides.
"No one can take up the book (Defoe'a) withoatbeUevIngthat it U the saddler of Whiteefaapd wbo
Is teUinff hie own story ; that he was an ere-witneea to all he relates : that he actually saw the blazinf
star which portended the caUmity ; that ne witnessed the nass growing in the streets, read the iustrip'
tions upon the doors of the infected houses; heard the beUinan czying, * Brii^ ami jfomr dsad!* nv tbe
d6ad«carts conveying people to their graves, and was present at the digging of tne pita in which tbey
wero deposited."— Wilsou^s Xtf« amd Timn qfD^,
Th^ Great Plague was imported, in December, 1664, by goods from Holland, where,
in Amsterdam alone, 20,000 persons had been carried off by the same infection within
a short time. The infected goods were opened at a house in St. Giles's parish, near
the upper end of Drury-lane, wherdn died four persons ; and the parish books record
of this period the appointment of searchers, shutting up of infected houses^ and contri-
butions by assessment and subscription. A Frenchman, who lived near the infected
house in Drury-lane, removed into Bear-binder-lane (l^"^^^^ ^ ^^* Swithin's-lane),
where he died, and thus spread the distemper in the City. Between December and
the ensuing April the deaths without the walls of the City greatly increased, and in
May every street in St. Giles's was infected. In July, in August, and September the
deaths ranged from 1000 to 7000 per week ; and 4000 are stated to have died in one
iktal night ! In the latter month fires were burnt in the streets three nights and dayii
** to purge and purify the air.'*
" St. James's Park was quite locked up ; ** and, Julj 22 : "I by coach home, not meeting with but two
coaches and but two carts, fi-om White llall to mj own house, that 1 could obserre; and the streets
mightj thin of people."— P«p«<.
** June 7th.— The hottest day that ever I felt in mj life. This daj, much against my will, I did in
Drury-lane see two or three houses marked with a red cross upon the doori^ and^ Lord have merey upon
nsl* writ there."— Ptfpir*.
" Sept 7.— I went ul along the City and suburbs, fW>m Kent-street to St. James's,— a dismal pas-
sage, and dangerous, to see so many oomns exposed in the streets, now thin of people ; the shops shot
up, and all in atoanf/wZ nUnee, as not knowing whose turn It might b« next."— JSoe^ji.
« Withfai the walls.
The most frequented once and noisy parts
Of town, now midnight silence reinis e'en there :
A midnight silence at the noon of day !
And grass, untrodden, springs beneath tbe feet."— Dryctoi*
The Court removed from Whitehall to Hampton Courts and thence to Salisboiy snd
Oxford; and the Londoners, leaving their city, carried the infection into the country;
so that it spread, towards the end of this and the following year, over a great part
of England. The Plague gradually abated in the metropolis ; but it was not until
Nov. 20, 1666, that public thanksgivings were offered up to God for assuaging the
pestilence in London, Westminster, and within the bilk of mortality. There were reported
dead of the PUgue in 1664-5, 68,596; probably less by one-third than the actual number.
Among the Plague medicines were Pill Rufas and Venice treacle. Another antidote wai
sack. Tobacco was used as a prophylactic ; and amulets were worn against infection.
Among many touching episodes of the Plague, is that of a blind Uighhmd bag^per,
who, having fallen asleep upon the steps of St. Andrew's Church, Holbom-hill, vras
conveyed away in the dead-cart ; and but for the howling of his fiutliful dog, which
waked him from his trance^ he would have been buried us a corpse. Of tbe piper and
POLICE. 681
bis dog a group was scolptnred by Cains Gabriel Cibber : it was long after purchased
by John the great Dnke of Argyll, subsequently to whose death It for many years
occupied a site in a garden in the front of No. 178, Tottenham-conrt-road, whence it
disappeared about 1825. (See London Ifaffazine,Apn\, 1820.)
Another episode is that of a grocer in Wood-street, Cheapeide, who shut himself up
with his family, with a store of provisions, his only communication being by a wicket
made in the door, and a rope and pulley to draw up or let anything down into the
street; and thus they escaped infection.
In the InielUgencer, for the year 1665, No. 51, appeared the followhsg advertise-
ment :— -
** This is to notify that the master of the Coeh and Bottle, commonly called the
Coek Alehouse, at Temple Bar, hath dismissed his servants and shut up his house for
tbis long vacation, intending (God willing) to return at Michaelmas next; so that all
persons whatsoever who have any acoompts with the said master, or farihings belonging
to the aaid houee, are desired to repair thither before the 8th of this instant July, and
tbey shall receive satisfaction." One of these fivthings is still preserved at the Coei
Taoem.
Forty yean before, Evelyn records 1625 as "the year in whidi the pertilence was
so epidemical, that there d/d in London 5000 a week."
In another great Plague year, 1603, there died 30,561 : —
** London now tmokes with vapors that arlae
From his fiyole iweaL himselfe he so bestlrrss t
'Cast oat joor dead 1' the carcase-carrier cries.
Which he hy heapes in gronndleaie graves intsrrss.
• • • •
"The London lanes (therebr themselves to save)
Did vomit out their onoigested dead,
Who by cart>loads are carried to the grave :
For all these lanes with folks were overfed.
• • • •
" Time never knew, shice he begunne his hoores
(For aoght we reade), a plagne bo long rvmaine
In any eitie as this plagne of ours ;
For now six yeares in London it hath laine."
Th» TrUtmpk qfDtath, hy John Davies, ia09.
It will be recollected, from the several accounts of the Plague in London, that a
was affixed by the authorities to the door of the house where there was infection.
In the Guildhall Library, not long since, among some broadsides, was found one of
these " Plague Crosses." It was the ordinary nze of a broadside, and bore a cross
extending to the edges of the paper, on which were printed the words^ " Lord have
mercy upon us." In the four quarters formed by the limbs of the cro« were printed
directions for managing the patient^ regulations for vints, medidnes^ food, and water.
Tins " Ciotf" nnfoiininately, is not now to be found.
POLICE.
THE original Police of the metropolis (which until the oommeneement of the last
centuiy, comprised only the " City and liberties," with Westminster) consisted of
the aldermen, deputy-aldermon, oommon-oouncilmen, ward-derk, ward-bedell, inquest-
men or leet jury, and constables of the several wards, who were formerly themselves
the night-watchmen by rotation, of Englishmen, — for no stranger was allowed to
discharge so responsible an office: the ward, with its precincts, being no other than the
highest development of the Anglo-Saxon hundred with its Uthings. We find this
form of Police to have existed from the earliest settlement of the valley of the Thames
by a northern nation ; and to have continued in use, as the type and model for the rest
(^ the realm, until the institution of the present Police*
The few officers of the central Police in the City,— >the upper-marshal, the nnder-
marshal, and the marshalmen,— >under whom was organized, at a very modem date^
a subordinate force of sixty-eight men, were in like manner the type of the Bow-street
and other police attached to the several magistrates' offices established in the outlying
portions of the metropolis so recently as the dose of the last century.
682 0UBI08ITIE8 OF LONDON.
In the metropolitaa parishes without the City, the watch was eihiefly under loctl
acts; the establishment in each oonsistiDg of a beadle, constables, and generally bod-
bonmghs, street-keepers, and watchmen, as in the several wards of the Gtj, bot
working to a result much worse : the petty constables being senred by deputies, \l
many instances characters of the worst and lowest description ; having no eslaiyi but
Hying by eztor^n, and countenancing all species of vice.
To abolish such a system. Sir Robert Peel's Metropolitan Pblice Act of the 10th of
George IV. c. AA, was passed, superseding the Bow-street foot-patrol, and the wbde
of the parochial police and watch outside the City, by one force both fiir day and nigfat
duty; in the sole appcnutment, order, and superintendence of two Commiflnanen^
acting under the responmlnlit^ of the Secretary of State for the Home Department*
The Metropolitan Police force coosisted at the beginning of 1867, of 7548 mat-
namely, 27 superintendents, 221 inspectors, 818 seiigeants,* and 6482 oonstaUoi
a small incresse over the return of the previous year. The highest salary of a ooostaUe
was 78/., the lowest 4QL 8*., ezdunve of clothing and coals. The cost of the police fir
the year 1866, including the dockyard police and all incidental expenses, inch as for
refreshments supplied to destitute prisoners and medical aid for poor persons in ca§a d
accident in the public throughfares, amounted to 621,819/1 The Metropolitan PoOce-
rate of 1866 produced 883,133/.; the Treasury contributed 117,519/., besdes \mi^
special payments for the dockyard police and services at military stations snd pablk
oiBces. Private individuals or companies paid 6204/., and the theatres 258/. for the
services of the police. The cost of the police courts in 1866 amounted to 49,53R;
it falls upon the public purse. There is one chief magistrate receiving 15002. a yetf,
snd 22 magistrates with 1200/. The fees and penalties levied at the police-coarts cf
these magistrateai, and of other justices within the district, amounted to 15,186/. ; these
fees and penalties are paid over to the Exchequer.
The first chief magistrate (and, indeed, the first stipendiary magistrate, in the sense of bdnr paid ^
stipend only, to the exdosloh of fees) was Sir J. Fielding, the naif-brother of Heniy Fieloiiog, the
Borelist. The following is a Uit of the chief magistrates from the institution of the office to the \Ktai
day.— Sir John Fielding, Sir W. AddingtonT^ Richard Ford, Mr. Bead, Sir Nathaniel Conut, Sir
Bobert Baker, Sir Richard Bimie, Sir Frederie A. Roe, Mr. Hall, Sir Thomas Henir. Sir Bobert Babr
resigned his office in 1821, in conseqaence of a complaint that had been made of his ooodoiA^
allowing the ftmeral procenion of Qneen Caroline to be diverted from the app<rinted tma». ^
Frederic A. Roe, who was knighted in 1832, received a baronetcy in 1836, upon soooeediDC to tu
estates of his ancle, Mr. Adair Roe. Sir Richard Bixnie was the only chief magistrate who had not be«
a Jwiior magistrate.
The great living machine keeps guard over our metropolis, with its millioDS d
rateable property, and watches at night, in order that its resident population mtj
deep in safety; although six thousand professional thieves are constantly on the
watch for opportunities to plunder. During the night the Police never cesss ]Sr
trolling the whole time they are on duty, being fbrbidden even to sit down. 1^
Police District is mapped out into divisions, the divisions into subdivisions, the tab*
^visions into sections, and the sections into beats, all being numbered, and the Umito
carefully defined. To every beat certain constables are spedfically asmgned; and tltff
are provided with little maps called beat-cards. So thoroughly has this arrangemcat
been carried into eflfect, that every street, road, lane, alley, and court within the nw-
tropolitan district — that is, the whole of the metropolis — ^is vinted constantly day aod
night by some of the police. Within a circle of six miles from St. Ptiul's, the bests
are ordinarily traversed in periods varying from 70 to 25 minutes; and there v^
points which, in fact, are never free from inspection. Kor must it be supposed tloi
this system places the wealthier localities at a disadvantage ; for it is an axiom is
police, that you guard St. James's by watching St Giles's.
*' Intelligence is conveyed from one constable to the other till it reaches the statioB-
house ; thence, by an admirable arrangement of routes and messengers, it peases to
the Central Office at Whitehall, thence along radiating lines to each division, and from
the divLuonal station-house to every constable in the district. In a case of emergenc;)
* The late Vincent George Dowling claimed to be the originator of the plan on which this n«« P|^
mtem was organized : even the names of the officers— inspector, sergeant Ac— were pablished In atu*
Mf9 in London (of which newspaper Dowling was editor) nearly two years before the qratem vu ^
posed by Sir Robert Peel. Mr. T. DofAu Hardy contributed, from documents in the Record Office uo-
portent information to Sir Robert Peel on the ancient police arrangements of London.
POPULATION. 683
the Commissioner coald communicate intelligence to e^ery man in the force, and
collect the whole of the men in one place, in two honrs. The power of rapid con-
centration has worked so effisctnally, that since the establishment of the Metropolitan
Police, it has never been fonnd necessary to call the military into actual operation
in ud of the civil force. Nor can clearer proof be given of perfect discipline, than
the fact that 5000 men in the prime and vigour of life, with moderate wages,—
2s, Sd, to Si, per day, — exposed in an unusual degree to the worst temptations of
London, and discharging, for the most part during the night, a very laborious duty,
always irksome and often dangerous, are kept in complete control without any ex*
trao^inary coercive power," -^ScUnburffh Beview,
The Corporation have their own Police; the ordering of the force being vested in
the Commissioner, subject to the approbation of the Lord Mayor and Aldermen, or
any three of them ; and also of the Secretary of State for the Home Department.
In addition to a Commissioner, chief superintendent, surgeon, receiver, and four
derks, the force consists of 1 superintendent, 14 inspectors, 14 station-sergeants, 12
detective-sergeants, 66 serg^nts, and 590 constables. The entire annual cost is about
65,000/. The clothing, hdmets, stocks* and armlets cost, for the year, 2951Z. Of. 2d, ;
lanterns and oil, 3102. The estimated income for the year is 67,161/. 9s. 2d, ; de>
rived from the following sources :^Produce of Sd, in the pound on the assessable
rental of the City (1,518,332/.)* aft^i* deducting 6 per cent, for poundage and defi-
ciencies, 47,575/. ; proportion of expenses from City's cash, 15,175/. 16*. 6c/. ; estimated
fines and penalties, 560/. ; payment out of Bridge-house estite for watching London
and Blackfriara Bridges, 668/. 49. ; rents from constables, 1078/. 4*. ; payment for
men on private sendee at the Bank, Post-office, Blackwall Railway, City of London
Union, Inland Revenue-office, TVmef-office, Onildhall justice-room, as assistant^gaoler,
omnibus time-keepers, Messrs. Gkx)ch and Cousens, Messrs. Pawson and Co., and
Messrs. Eearns, M%jor, and Field, 2114/. 4f. Sd, These accounts show an estinuited
surplus of receipts over expenditure amounting to 2597/. 10*. Bd,
The Morse Patrol was added in 1886 ; and the Thames Police, with the Wesi-
minster ConstdMcuy and the PoUoe^offiee Agenctf, in 1838, when the old detective
force was superseded.
Before the ettal^liihinent of the Thsmee Police, br Mr. B. Colqnhoim, the annual loas hj robberlea
alone upon the riTer waa half a million sterling ; the depredators being termed river-piratea, light and
heavy honemen, mnd-larka, cope-men, acaffle-honters. Thc7 were Areqoentlj known to weigh a ship's
anchor, hoist it with the cable Into a boat, and when diacorered, to hail the captain, tell him of his loaa.
and row awtj. Ther alao cnt craft and lighters adrift, ran them ashore, and deared them. Many of
the light-horaemen cleared Ave guineas a night; and an apprentice to a g^e- waterman often kept hia
eountry-hoose and saddle-horse. In 1797, the ilrst year of the Police, the savins to the West India
merchanta alone was compnted at 100,000/. ; and 2200 culprits were convicted of miademeanonrs on the
river during the same penod.
POPULATION.
TAPERELL and Innes's Map of London and Westminster in the early pert of the reign
of Qneea Elizabeth (1660), based upon Vertue's Map, 1737, shows on the east the
Tower, standing separated from London, and Finsbury and Spitalflekls with their
trees and hedge-rows; while on the west of Temple Bar, the villages of Charing,
St. Gilesi's, and other scattered hamlets are aggregated, and Westminster is a distinct
citv. The intervening north bank of the river Thames, or the Strand, has a line of
seats and gardens of tiie nobiUty. At the date of this map London contained about
145,000 inhabitants. In the narrative of the virit of the Duke de Nayera to the
Court of Henry VIII. in 1548, London is described as one of the largest cities in
Christendom, '* its extent being near a league." " There were 160,000 houses in
London before the Fire. About 15,000 or 16^000 die yearly in London when na
plague, which is thrice more than in Amsterdam. The exdse in London comes to
about 12,000/L a year. London stands on 460 acres of ground. Lost in books 160,000^
at the Fire of London. London Bridge is 800 feet long, 60 feet high, and 30 broad;
it hath a drawbridge in the middle, and 20 feet between each arch." — Diary of the
Sev. John Ward, 1648 to 1678.
Sir William Potty, in his PoliUoal AriihmeHe, printed in 1683, after much study of
^4 CURIOSITIES OF LONDON.
statiBticnl retnras and bills of mortality, demonstrates that the growth <d tk
metropolis mast stop of its own accord before the year of g^oe 1800; at wtii^
period the population would, by bis computation, have arrived at eicactly &,S5d,C^.
Kay more, were it not for this halt, he shows that the increase woald doable in fi»tf
years, with a slightly accelerating increment, as he gives the amount of human lieings
in the city for 1840 at 10,718,880 ! The identical year 1800, the commencemeot of a
tmly important century, found London still enlarging: brick-fields and scaffiildiag
were invading all its outskirts ; but the inhabitants, who had increased in a reasosablT
rapid ratio, numbered only 830,000.
* There are no accarste aoooonts of the population of London prerioiulr to the Ceauiii of 180L T^
rannt, in his fkinoiu Trtatue ra BMs ofMbrtaliiy, it 98K0»)
oelebrated Qregorj Kinr, at 527,600; snd considering the great additions that had been made to tbe
metropolis between the Restoration and the Revolution, this increase does not seem to be greater thaa
we should have'been led to infer firom Oraunt's estimate. The p->pulation advanced slowly during use
first half of the last century; indeed, it fell off between 1740 and 1750. In hU tract on the popolstioo of
England, published in 1782, Dr. Price estimated the population of London in 1777 at only 5l3,4ai> (p. 5).
But there can be no doubt that this estimate, like that which he gave of the population of the kingw
was very decidedly under the mark; and the probability seems to be, that In 1777 London had wm
640.000 to 650,000 hihabltauts."— Macoulloch's Qeogrofkieal Dietionary,
A return made in 1867 from the metropolitan police-office states that within >
radius of six miles from Charing-cross there are 2637 miles of streets. Since IS Id
the number of houses has increased by upwards of 60,000, and the length of streets by
nearly 900 miles. -
The Registrar-General, in his Report for 1866, says : — London is growing greater
every day, and within its present bounds, extending over 122 square miles of territoiyi
the population amounted last year by computation to 3,037,991 souls. In its midst u
the ancient City, inhabited at night by about 100,000 people; while around it, u
far as a radius of 15 miles stretches from Charing-cross, an ever-thickening ring of
people extend within the area which the metropolitan police watches over, making tlie
whole number on an area of 687 square miles around St. Paul's and Westminster
Abbey 3,521,267 souls.
The "London" of the Registrar-Qeneral, which is identical with the Poor La*
Union London, and is the London of the Census, stretching from Hampstead to
Norwood, and from Hammersmith to Woolwich, is returned as comprising l^
parishes, 77,997 statute acres, and 2,803,989 people, with property assessed for Uk
county-rate at more than 12,000,000i. Of its area 2778 acres are covered wiU
water, being part of the river Thames. Of its population in 1861, 2.030,814 were in
the county of Middlesex, 579,748 in the county of Surrey, and 193,427 in the coouty
of Kent. Since the Census of 1851 the Middlesex portion of the population, nesrl.r
three-fourths of the whole, had increased 16 per cent^ the Surrey portion 20 per
cent., and the small portion in Kent (not much larger than Sheffield) no less thim
44 per cent. ; the entire population increased 18'7 per cent, or 441,753— « number
which would people all Liverpool or Manchester. This is more than a fifth of the
increase in all England and Walesa though the metropolis, even in 1861, did not
contain quite a seventh of the population. In the ten years, 1851-60, 528,306 persoos
were married in the metropolis, 864,563 children were ihm there, and 610,473 persons
died there. Among its varieties it has eight parishes, none of which has 100 io*
habitants ; and it has ux parishes, each of which has above 100,000. At the census it
had 5625 in-patients in its hospitals, and 10,658 inmates of its orphan asylums, v^
other principal charitable institutions. It has more than its share of women; in 1851
there were 113*47 females to every 100 males, and in 1861 there was one female more
(114-40) to every 100 males ; but the births within the metropolis in the ten yesih
1851-60, produced only 9618 females to every 100 males; such are the ehMg^
wrought by death and emigration. The returns state that at the date of the censusi
in districts at the west-end containing 284,000 persons, 6120 residents were out of
town, and 2460 visitors were temporarily staying there; it was not the I/)o^
season, and it was but a week after Easter-day.
The revised Census returns show that on the 8th of April, 1861, the number of
PORT OF LONDON, 685
houses inhabited by the popalation of England and Wales was 3,789,605. There was,
therefore, one honse to every 5*86 persons, or 586 persons to 100 houses. In 1851
there were 547 persons to 100 houses, so that notwithstanding increased numbers
there is rather more house-room than there was. Tn the metropolis, however, taken
as a whole, these returns show that the crowding is rather greater than less tlian it
was ; in 1851 there were 772 persons to 100 houses, in 1861 780 persons. Mr. Soott»
the City Chamberlain, shows by curious statistics, tiiat, taking the area of the metro-
polis at sixteen miles from Charing Cross — ^which is the Metropolitan Police district^
the population of London, in 1801, ranged at equal distances, would stand each man
twenty-ooe yards from his ndghbour. In 1851 each person would have stood fourteen
yards apart. In 1866, there woald have been only nine yards between each person :
and in fifty years hence, supposing the population to g^ on increasing at its present rate,
to keep within the sixteen miles area, there will only be standing-room for each person*
A Census of the City shows the night population of the City and liberties numbered
113,387 : the mercantile and commercial population engaged in the City daily amounted
to 170,183 ; the total day population residing in the City to 288,520; and the number
of persons resorting to the City daily in sixteen hours, not included in the above, being
customers, clients, and others, to 509,611. The persons frequenting the CSty daily in
twelve hours, from 6 A.1C. to 6 P.X., were 549,613 ; in sixteen hours, from 5 am. to
9 P.M., they were 679,744; and in twenty*four hours they were 728,986.
Taken as a whole, the more crowded part of London contuned 1,150,000 persons in
1851, and about the same number were found there in 1861 ; but it is something to
have thrown into the suburbs the increase of the ten years — ^in the whole metropolis
440,000, almost precisely the population of Liverpool.
The present population of London is supposed to represent the number of inhabitants
living in England and Wales four centuries and a half ago, in the reign of Edward III.
A late retam tbowB Uie number of paasengen and vehicles pssBlng over London Bridge in twenty-
four hours. The total number of passengers In carriages and on foot amounted. In the twenty-four
houri, to 167,910, or at the average rate of abont 6096 per hour, night and day. The largest number
paned between ten and eleven in the moinlxig, and eight and nine in the evening, averaging at those
Tetti " ■ ' - . ^
167;910 as an average of the number of passengers who cross London Bridge during the working days.
hours 2M per minute. Between three and four in the morning is the quietest time in the streets of
London, and then as many as 111 persons psssed over the bridge in an hour. If we take the above
and only half that number on the Uuudays, the number wiJI amount in the Year to fifty-six millions.
This is nearly as many as twice the popoliUlon of the United Kingdom. At nroes, during the throng
of budnesa, there are 20OO persons on London Bridge. During the twenty-four hours the number of car^
liages amounted to 20,406, or an average of about 864 an hour. The greatest number of carriages in any
hour was between ten and eleven o'clock in the forenoon, when 1764 oarriages passed over the bridge.
POET OF LONDON.
SIR JOHN HERSCHEL felidtously observes : " It is a fact not a little interesting
to Englishmen, and, combined with our insular situation in the great highway of
nations, the Atlantic, not a little explanatory of our commercial eminence, that London
occupies nearly the centre of the terrestrial hemisphere."— (SVsa^iM on Astronomy)*
On the other hand it is held that the great distance of London from the mouth of the
river, and also from the coal country and the centre of manu&cturing districts, are
serious drawbacks, in spite of which London has become the immense port she un-
doubtedly is.
Tadtus describes London, in the year 61, as not dignified with the name of a colony,
but very celebrated for the numb^ of its merchants and commerce. In 211 it was
styled <'a great and wealthy dty ;" and in 359 there were engaged 800 vessels in the
import and export of com to and from Londinnm alone.
An edict of King Ethehred (a.d. 978) refers to the fkct that " the Emperor's men,
or Easterlings, come with thdr ships to • Billingsgate." The Easterlings were the
merchants of. the Steelyard, and paid a duty to the port. TViniam the Norman fortified
Ixmdon ; but in the charter which he granted to the inhabitants, he niade no mention
of commerce. Henry I. and other sovereigns, however, granted them privileges ; and
Iltz-Stephen, in his Life of St. Thomas d Beeket, thus describes the merchandise of
I^ndon :-—
686 CURIOSITIES OF LONDON, I
** AnbU'B ■okl, fiib—'t iplce and IneeoM,
Bcythii's Keen weapODi, and the oil of pelnu I
From Bebvlon's deep soil : Nile's predous seme s
Chim'e bright* ehinlug lilks: and Gallic wines ;
Vorwaj*! wann peltZT.aBd the Bniaiaa seblea;
AUbexeaboond.*^^
Edwud I. expelled the Jew% bat offiBred eonie special advantagea to other bas^
traders. Edward III. founded three of the great goilds which at one time bddtk
eommeroe of London in their hands — the Goldsmiths, the Merchant Taylon, and tk
Skinners ; being the oldest of the now existing companies* with the angle exoeptka tf
the Fishmongers, which was foondedin the r&gn of Edward I. Before the dose fi
Edward IIL's reign the Orooen^ Salters, Drapers, and Vintners were fonnded. Xk
Heroers belong to the rdgn of Richard II. ; the Haberdashers to that of Henij \U
and the Ironmongers and Clothworkers to that of Edward IV.
Under an Act of Charles IL, the Port of London is held to extend as &r ts tl:«
North Foreland. It» however, practically extends 6^ miles below London Bridge, to
Bngsby's Hde, betyond BlackwalL The actnal Port reaches to lAmehoose, and eaosA
<if the Upper Pool, the first bend or reach of the river, from London Bridge to near Uk
Thames Tonnel and Execution Dock ; and the Lower Pool, thenoe to Cnckold'a Poiot
In the latter space colliers mostly lie in tiers ; a fair way of 300 feet being left tV
shipping and steamers passing up and down. The depth of the river insures Lon^^
«oni&derable advantage as a shipping port. Even at ebb-tide there are 12 or 13 feet
of water in the fair way of the river above Greenwich ; the mean range of the tide i:
London Bridge is about 17 feet; of the highest spring-tides about 22 feet To
Woolwich the river is navigable for ships of any burden ; to Blackwall for thotf of
1400 tons; and to St Eatherine's Docks for vessels of 800 tons.
The several Docks are described at pp. 809-rdl2 ; the Custok House at p. S05;
and BiLUNGflOATs at p. 54.
"Inomsd^v (Sept 17, 1840) there arrived in the Port 121 ahipa, naTigated bv 1387 seamoo. vit|i>
rtglfltered tonnage of 29,009 tone t 106 Britiih, 16 foreign: 62eargaee fromoor eoloiiiei, 09fhimfore«c
states— 4h>m the inhabitante of the whole eiioait of the globe. The di^s cargoes ioobided Si^^
peekages of sugar, from the Weet Indiee, Braxil, the East Indies, Penang, Manula, and Bottenias:
817 oaen and calves, aad 27S4 ibeep, prlndpaUy ttaan. Belgiam and Holland ; 3867 quarters of ^^
18,814 quarters of oatafirom Archangel or the Baltic; potatoes from Botterdam: 1200 packani of ai»p*>
ffom(^ito; 16,000 chesta of tea, from China: 7400 packages of coffee^ from Ce^loOfftaal and loan;
n2bagsofooooa from Grenada; 1400 bags of xicefW>m India, and 360 bags of ta^boa from BnBl;la>i(8
and pork fhxn Hamburg, and 8000 packages of batter and 60,000 cheeses flrom Holland ; 767 pacbc^
of eggs (900,000) ; of wool, 4468 bales, from the Cape and AustralU; 16^000 hides, 100^000 hon^«»
9600 packages of tallow, from 8oath America and India ; hooft of animals, IS tons ^^ ^^ vij^
sad 140 elephants' teeth fh>m the Cape ; 1260 tons of granite fhxn Goerasey, copper ore fmn Addiiei
and cork from Spain ; 40.000 mats from Archangel, and 400tons of brimstone from Sicily ; cod-^« <f^
snd 3800 smisklns, fh»n Newfoundland; 110 bales of bark from Arica, and 1100 oaaks of oU froaAU*
Mediterranean; lard, oil-cake, and turpentine, flrom America; hemp tnm Bossia, and potash otq
Canada; 24B bales of rags, from Italy; staves for casks, timber for oar hoasea, doiIs for paodng'^sfei;
rosewood, 876 pieces; teak for ships, logwood for dye. lignam vitn for ships' blocks, snd ebonjfor
cabinets; ootton fhnn Bombay, sine firom Stettin, 1000 bandies of whisks from Trieste, yeait insi
Botterdam, and apples from Beljrinm; of silk, 900 bales from China, finer sorts from Fiodsioot m
Tascany, and 200 packages from China, Germany, and France : Cashmere shawls f^om Bombsj; w
1800 packages, firom France and Portugal; ram from the East and West Indies, sad sdieidam fr^
HoUnd; notmegs snd olores fh>m Penang, cinnamon fhmi Ceylon, 840 naekages of ffW, ^^
Itombay, and 1790 of ginger from Calcutta; 100 barrels of anchovies fiMun Leghorn, a cargo of pf)^
apples from Naasao, and 60 fine live turtles ; 64 blo^s of marble fhom Leghorn ; tobacco flrom Ameni^
S19 packages of treasure— Spanish dollars, Syoee silver tma China, rapeea from Hiodostaa, and EngUfi
sovereigns."—^ IWs Butineu in the Port qfLondcm, by T. Howell, ISaa, .
"Again, in one day's consumption, we find corahs, or silk handkerehiellL flrom India; wlia]e>oQii^o
sperm-oil flrom our deep-sea fisheries ; from India shell-lac, indigo, and lao-dye ; saltpetre fiv (oawwdtf.
and hemp and Jute ibr cordage ; quicksilver flrom the mines in Spain ; isinglass snd bristles fttan Sias»;
Iceland moss, honey, and leeches fh>m Hamburg; manna fh>m Palermo, camphor from Oslcatta. m*^
caroni from Naples, sugar-candv from Holland, and lemon-oil flrom Mesdna; Sl.OOOlbs. of eonsof u^a
the Ionian Islands, 6760 bars of iron from Sweden, and bees'-wax firom the coast of Africa; tea, t^\
coffee, pepper, tobacco, spirits, and wine; watches, docks, gloves, and glass-ware: needlework, Iwi^
shoes, bonnets, and feathers; toys, lace, and slate-pencils; saffery and stavesacre from HambuiK; '^
Inkle from France."— Auf.
The river is protected by an admirable system of Police^ established in 179S, sod
merged into the Metropolitan Police in 1839. BxecuUon Dock, at Wapping^ the
name of one of the oatlets of the river, preserves the memory of many a tale of moidff
and piracy on the high seas ; for here used to be executed aU pirates and ssilon foQ^^
guilty of any of the greater crimes committed on ship-board. Opposite BlackwMil «0
remember to hare seen the gibbets^ on which the bodies were left to decay. The loss
POBTUGAL-STBEET. 687
[>f life upon the Tbamefi, by ooUiaion of veneb and other accidents, is of fVightfiil
unoont; 500 persons being annually drowned in the river, and one-tbird of the number
in the PooL
PORTUGAL-STREET,
I'N the rear of the sonth nde of Lincoln's-Inn-fields (formerly Portogal-row) has been
the site of three theatres, upon the north side of the street The first theatre
(named the J>uk^9 Theatre, from the Duke of York, its great patron ; and the Opera,
from its musical performances), was originally a tennis-court ; it was altered for Sir
"William Davenant, and opened in 1662 with his operatic Siege of Mhodee, when
regular scenery was first introduced upon our stage. In tbe same year was produced
here Cowley's Cutter of Coleman-etreet, Here Pepys saw, March 1st, 1662, Borneo
and Juliet, "the first time it was ever acted;" and May 28, '* Samlett done^
^ving us fresh reason never to think enough of Betterton." " Nov. 5. To the Duke's
bouse to see Macbeth, a pretty good play, but admirably acted." Pepys describes
«« a mighty company of citizens, ordinary prentices, and mean people in the pit ;"
where he first saw Kell Qwyn, April 8, 1665, during the performance of Lord Orrery's
JIfuetapha, when the king and my Lady Castlenuune were there; Pepys sat in the
pit next to " pretty witty Nell " axid Rebecca Marshall, of the King's house. Etherege^s
JJdse in a TfiUf was so attractive here, that 10002. was reodved in one month, then a
great sum. Here female characters were first sustained by women ; for which purpose
Davenant engaged Elizabeth Davenport, the first Boxalana in the Siege <f Bhodeeg
Mary Saundersou, fiunous as Queen Eatherine and JuHet, and afterwards the wife of
Betterton; Mary or Moll Davis,* excellent in singing and dandng, afterwards the
mistress of Charles II. ; Mrs. Long, the mistress of the Duke of Richmond, celebrated
in male characters ; Mrs. Norris, mother of Jubilee Dicky ; Mrs. Johnson, noted as a
dancer, and as Carolina in Shadwell's comedy of Epsom WeUs. The fiEunous
Mrs. Barry was brought out here after Davenant's death.
Among the acton at the Duke^a were Tbomaa Betterton, the rival of Borbage and Garrick, and the
last sorrivor of the old school of acton: Joaeph HarrU, ftmoos for acting Borneo, Wolaey. and Sir
Andrew Agneoheek ; William Smith, a harrlBter of Gray's Inn, celebrated as S^nga in Lord Orrerr'a
J£u$iaph4i; Samnel Sandford, called by King Charles II. the best npresentatlye of a TilUdn in tbe
world: James Nokes, famous for his bawling fops; and Cave Underhifl, deTer as Cotter in Cowley's
come^, and aa the grave^igger in ITaai/*^.— Abrloged from Conuingham's Stoiy <fNM OwfH,
From 1665 (the Plague) until after the Great i^e, the theatre was dosed. Davenant
nauall/ rerided here.
** Aprfl 0th, 1668. I np and down to the Doke of Tork's playhouse, there to see, which I did. Sir W.
Daveuanf 8 corpse carried out towards Westminster, there to be buried. Here wen many coaches and
§Hx horses^ and many hackniea, that made it look, methought, aa if It were the buriall of a poor poet"—
In 1671-2, in Lord Orrery's play of Menrjf F., at the Duke's Theatre, the acton
Harris, Betterton, and Smith wore the coronation suits of King Charles, the Duke of
York, and Lord Oxford. This year the company removed to Dorset Gardens ; and
tbe King's company, burnt out from Drury-lane, played at the Duke's Theatre till
1673*4^ when they left it, and it again became a tennis-court. It was refitted and re-
opened in 1695, with (first time) Congreve's comedy of Zove for Love, This second
theatre was taken down, and a new house built for Christopher Rich, and opened by
John Bich, in 1714> with Farquhar's comedy of the BecruiHng Offleers when also
Rich introduced the first pantomime. Rich himself playing harlequin. Here Quin
played his best parts ; and from a fracas in which he was embroiled, originated the
sergeant's guard at the Theatres RoyaL The first English opera was performed here
in 1717-18 ; here was originally used the stage motto, Veluti in speculum ; and here
in 1727-8 ^e Beggar's Opera was produced, and played sixty-two nights tbe first
season, making " Gay rich and Rich gay." In 1732, Rich having built a theatre in
Covent Garden, removed there ; and the Portugal-street house was by turns let for
* In the part of Celania, in tbe Siwh^ altered br Ihtvenant from Beaumont and Fletcher'a Two
yoble Knumen, Moll Davis aang " Mv lodging is on the cold ffroand" ** so channlngly, that not long
after it raised her from her wsd on the oold ground to a bedf royaU"— Downes's J&sciM Anglieanus,
p.Jied.1708.
688 CUBI08ITIE8 OF L02W0N.
ItaliRn openu, oratorios, for faaUa, concerts, and exhibitions ; to Giffiird, of Goodmu's-
llelds, in I7b6; next as a barrack and auction-room ; and Spode and Copdaod'i Cbitt
Itepontory, until 1848, when the premises were sold to tlie College of SnrgeoK
Angust 28, and were tsken down for enlarging their mnseom. Of the tbettre litti«
vemained, save the oater walls, built upon an arched cellar : there was a large Qneec
Anne staircase a saloon upon the fint floor; and the attics lighted by windom intk
roof, had been probably the scene-painting loft. Upon this site the College of Sorgcss
completed in 1854 a third Hall for their Museom, by aid of a Pbrliamentaiy gmt i
15,0002.
In Carey-street^ nearly opposite, was a public-honae and stable-yard, described s
Sir William Dayenant's Flayhoute to he Let as " oar house inn, the Grange." It ns
taken down in 1853 fbr the nto of Eivo's Colleok Hospitai^ see p. 438. At tk;
north-east comer of Portugal-street was one of its olden resorts, WilTs Coffee-iovt.
F6rtugal-street was the last locality in Loudon where Hocks lingered; those d
8t Clement Danes' parish being removed from here about 1820 : they £ued tiie
burial-ground, where lay Joe Miller. Portugal-street acquired a sort of cant ootcnetj
from the Court for the Belief of Insolvent Debtors b^g here, (See p. 509.)
SOST'OFFICE.
THE General Post-office has had flve locations since the Postmaster to Charles I.
fixed his reodving-house in Sherbome-lane, in 1636, whence dates " the lettliof
of the letter-office of England and Scotland." The office was next removed to Qotk-Uoe*
Dowgato ; and then to the Black Swan, Bishopsgate-street. After the Grreat Fire, tlu
office was shifted to the Black Pillars, in Brydges-street, Covent-garden; tbesoe, etrlr
in tbe last century, to the mannon of Sir Robert Viner (dose to Sherbonie-kne), u
Lombard-street {»ee pp. 894, 592) ; and the chief office to St. Martin's-le-Grand in IS^
The Qeneral Post-office occupies the site of tbe College of St. Martiu's-le-Graad, t:
the junction with Newgate-street. It was designed by Sir R. Smirke^ RX, and wv
built between 1825 and 1829: it is insulated, and is extemalJly of Portland stooe;
400 feet long, 180 wide, and 64 high. It stands in the three parishes of St Anoe v^
St. Agnes, St. Leonard, and' St. Michael-le-quem ; and 131 houses and nearlj IOC)
inhabitants were displaced to make room for this single edifice. Several Booffi
remains were found during the progress of the work). The St. UaitinVk-
Grand facade has three Ionic porticoes : one at each end, tetrastyle, of ftiar ^^^
columns ; and one in the centre, hexastyle, of six columns (from the temple of Wdo^
Polias, at Athens) : it is surmounted by a pediment, in the tympanum of which a
sculptured the imperial arms of the United Kingdom ; and on the friese is ioscrim
" OBOsaio QUiSTO BBOB, xsccczxix." Beneath are entrances to the Grand PDb&
Hall, 80 feet long by about 60 wide, divided by Iodic columns into a centre and t«o
aisles; and in the vaulted basement are the warm-ur apparatus and gasometas>
North of the Hall are the offices for newspapers, inland letters, and foreign lettefli
south are the offices of the London local poet ; the communication being by a ivxm
and railway under the Hall floor. In the middle story north are the offices for doiL
mis-sent, and returned letters; south, secretary's offices, board-rooms^ &c. The dock,
over the principal entrance, was made by VuUiamy ; the bob of the pendnlnm veisw
448 lbs., the object being to counteract the effect of wind on the hands of tbe dial. ^
the eastern front, fiidng Foster-lane, the letter-bags are received. Tbe mechanics
contrivances for the despatch of the business of the office display gpeat ingennity ; ^ff^'
power is variously employed : two endless chains, worked by a steam-engine^ carrr. la
rapid succession, a series of shelves, each holding four or five men and their letter-bsgii
which are thus raised to various parts of the building.
King James II. has tbe credit of having establiBhed aomethinff like an orgaoixed foreiirB P^-J^,
a man could more apeedily reoeiye a reply to a letter aent to Madrid than he oonld to one dcqau^
Ireland or Scotland. Tbe home post was in the hands of carriers, and also of pedeibian wv*jj?:
and the former even oonld not convey a nolo to the North, and bring an answer back, under ^*^.°'^^
at the Terv earlleet. Witherlngs, one of the chief postmasters of Charles I.*8 days, reformed tiut xj^
He establiBhed a running-poBt, as it was called, between England and Scotland, the ^" P*"^
forward night and day ; ana it was hoped, if the thinar Mras not actually accomplished at the^^ ^
fha writer of a letter from London to Edioborgh would receive a reply within a week! nUca »»•
POST-OFFICE. 689
runningr. or nthflr riding, port was ertabllthed, verj sangnine was Tntheringf . ** If the post,*' he iaid.
** be punctoallj paid, the newa will oome mxmer tka» thought." He oonsidored tiiat news which passed
firom Bdinburgh to London in three days and nights, by relays of horses^ whose swinging trot never
oeascd, was outstripping thooght.— .ItAtfiMiiai.
The arrangemeiits for the Foreign Mails in the present day sbow, in a forcible man-
lier, the wonderful extent of Britidi commerce and relationships. Here are depait-
xnents for Anstria, Baden, Bavaria, France, Norway, Denmark, and the most northern
latitudes; the Brazils, 'Chili, the Equator, Spain, Sardima, Switzerland, United States
of America, North America, the various districts of India, Australia, ^. Here arrange-
xnents are made for the overland Indian and other mails. The letters, newspapers, and
lxx>k8 are secured in cases of sheet-iron, which, when full, are carefully soldered up and
inclosed in wooden chests, which are branded with crosses of red or black, and marked
^^^ith the name of the district, dty, Ac., at which its arrival is awuted. Each of the
lx>xes referred to wdghs, when filled with letters and papers, about 86 lbs., and the
ordinary Australian nuul, exdunve of the portion sent overland, generally consists of
480 boxes of books and newspapers, and 100 boxes of letters — in all 580 boxes. These
"Would weigh altogether 49,880 lbs., equal to nearly twenty-two tons and a half.
The Maili were originally conveyed on horseback and in light carts, until 1784^
'when mail-coaches were substituted by Mr. Fialmer. The first mail-coach left the
Three Kings yard, Piccadilly, for Bristol, Aug. 24th, 1784. The speed of the mails
"was at once increased from three and a half to more than six miles an hour, and sub-
sequently stiU greater acceleration was effected. About the year 1818, Mr. Macadam's
improved system of road-making began to be of great survice to the Post-office, by
enabling the mails to be much accelerated. Their speed was gradually increased to
ten miles an hour, and even more ; until, in the case of the Devonport mail, the journey
of 216 miles, including stoppages, was punctually performed in twenty-one hours and
fourteen minutes. In 1830, upon thie opening of the line between Liverpool and
I^Ianchester, the mails were for the first time conveyed by railway. In 1835 Lieu-
tenant Waghom commenced transmisdon to India, by the direct route through the
Mediterranean and over the Isthmus of Suez, a line of communication subsequently
extended to China and Australia. In 1869 the dbtance over which mails were con*
'veyed by mail-coachei^ railways, foot-messengers^ and steam-packets was about 133,000
miles per day, this b^ng about 3000 miles more than in the year ending 1857. In
the year 1859 the whole distance traversed by the various mails was thirty-seveB
millhnttflve hundred and forty-five ihomeand mUea! The annual procession of the
mail-coaches on the birthday of George III. (June 4) was once a metropolitan sight
ivhich the king loved to see from the windows of Buckingham House. The letters are
now conveyed to the railways in omnibuses, nine of whi<^ are sometimes filled by one
zi'ght's mul at one railway. In 1839 was invented the travelling post-office, in which
clerks sort the letters during the railway journey, and the guard ties in and exchanges
the letter-bags^ without stopping the train. Four miles an hour was the common rate
of tho first mail-carts; a railway mail-tnun now averages twenty-four wiles an hour;
'while, between certain stations on certain lines, a speed of fifty mUes an hour is attained.
Sy the Pneumatic Despatch the mail-bags are blown through the tube in iron cars in
about one minute, the usual time occapied by the mail carts being about ten minutes.
Persons have been conveyed through the tube^ and returned by vacuum, without having
experienced the slightest discomfort
The Matee of Pottage varied according to distance until December 5th, 1839, whdn
the uniform rate of 4d, was tried ; and January 10th, 1840, was commenced the uniform
rate of \d. per letter of half an ounce weight, &c. The Government received 2000
plans for a new system, and adopted that ^ Mr. Rowland Hill ; but not until the
change had been some years agitated by a Poet Magazine established for the purpose.
Among the opponents of the uniform penny stamp was the Secretary of the Post-office,
who msintained that the revenue would not recover itself for half a century, and
that the poor would not write. Lord Lichfield pointed to the absurdity of supposing
that letters, the conveyance of which cost on an average twopence-halfpenny each,
could ever be carried for a penny and leave a profit on the transaction ! The uniform
rate wsi pronounced by Colonel Maberly to be " impracticable ;" and as to pre-payment,
he was sore the public would object to it, however low the rate might be ! And a Scotch
T T
690 CUBI08JTIE8 OF LONDON.
joamaliit ridiculed the idea of penons having to itick pieces of paper upon their letters!
The Btamped portage-coven came into use May 6^ 1840 ;* bat the idea of a prepaid
envelope is aa old aa the time of Loois XIV. A pictorial envelope was dengned by W.
Hnlready, YLA^ hot little need. A fancied valae is attadied to this envelope ; fur «e
have seen advertised in the Time» : — *' The Mnlready Postage £nvdope — For sale, u
Indian-proof impression. One of nz, from the original block engraved bj John Thamp-
■on in the year 1840, price 20 gnineaa." The postage label-stamps were first used ia
1841 ; perforated, 1854.
Number qf LetUrs.'-^ThB greatest number of letters, under the old system, era
known to pass through the General Post-ofllce in one day, was received there on Joly
16, 1839, vis. 90,000; the amount of postage being 4050L, a sam greater by 530/.
than any hitherto collected in one day. In the third week of Febraaiy the nmnber Gt
letters is nsnally highest. The ordinary daily average is 400,000 letters ; on 19th
Angust, 1858, it readied 680,000. The number of letters which pass throogh ti^
Post-office in a year is nearly 400,000,000. In 1864, 679,064^822 letters passed throogh
the post, being an increase of 87,000,000 over the previous year; and in the same
period the number of book-packets and newspapers which were transmitted rose tsa
over 50,000,000, or 7,000,000 more than in 1863.
"It Is cftinsted that there lies, from time to time, in the Desd-Letter OiBee, midetgoing Am pnetm
of finding owneri, iome 11,0002. tnnoally, in osah alone. In July, 1847, for inatanoe— onij a two moathi'
aocamnlition— the poet-haate of 4868 letters, all oontainlng property, waa arrested by the bad sapa^
soriptiona of the writera. They were oonsigned— after a learohing inqaest upon eaeh by tbas eflleieat
coroner, the "blind clerk"— to the poat-omce Jiorgu*. There were bank-notes of the vafaie of loici,
and money-ordera for 407^ 12*. Bat most of these ill-directed letter* contained coin in small aoma,
aounmting to 8101. Of . Si. On the 17th of Jnly, 1847, there were lying in the Dead-Letter OAoe bOla cf
exchange for the immenae sum of 40,4102. Ss. 74.** (Diekens'a HvutAold Wards, No. L) The valoe of
property oontained in miaaing letters, daring twelre months, is about 200,0001.
There are employed in the General Post-office, indu<£ng the London IMatxict letter-
carriers, but exdusive of the receivers, 2500 persons, in different offices: — 8ecretar7'%
Accountant's^ Beodver's, Dead-Letter, Money-Order, Inland, and London IHstrict
Offices. For more than half a century there were only two secretaries to the Post-
office^ Sir Francis Freeling and Colond Maberly. Sir Francis was brought op in the
Post-office^ had performed the humblest as well as the highest duties of the department,
and was %protig4 of Mr. Pkdmer, the great Post-office reformer. He waa soooeeded
by Lieut.-CoL Maberly, M.P., who retired in 1854^ when Mr. Rowland Hill, the ori^-
nator of the penny-post, was appointed secretary; his services were rewardied in 1846
by a public testimonial of 18,8602. ; Knighthood and grant. It is singular that all postal
reformers have been unacquunted with the department which they have revolntjapiaed.
The net Bevenne of the Post Office to the end of the Tear 1865 waa 1,482,6222. The nomber of effto
ttve persons employed waa 26,062; of pensiooera. 1274; aalariea, wara, allowanoea, Ae., 1^286,153/ ;
postage stampa, 22,0642.; atationery, 32,3962.; boildings, repairs, Ac, 76,3311.; ooof^yanoe by '«***^hf*^
carta, &c, 140,6171. ; by railways, SmJtaOl. ; of mails bv private shipa and by packeta, Ae., 7M;S87t. : over
the iathmoaes of Saez and Panama, with aalaries of A(uniralty agents, &0i, 28,7864; and foe mail-bags
and boies, tolls, Ac, 22,220i2L { a total for oonveyaaoe of 1,616;44S2.
The PsinrY Pobt was originally projected by Robert Murray, a millitter, of the
Company of Clothworkers ; and William Dockwra, a sub-searcher in the Customs. It
was commenced as a foot-post^ in 1680, with four deliveries a day. These prxgectora^
however, quarrelled: Murray set up his office at Hall's Coflfoe-house, in Wood-street;
* Bat a Stockholm paper, Tkt VrftikiHen, aays, that8ofarbaekaal828,aSwediahollleer,LieateBant
Trekenber, petitioned the Chamber of IT "
Nobles to propose to the Government to issae , . ^ _
specially deaUned to aerve fisr envelopea ibr prepaid letters ; bat the proposition, thoagh wumly sap-
ported aa likely to be convenient to the pablio and the poa^offioe, waa reacted bv a large maiorlty.
For ten yeara England alone made ose of the postage stamp. France adopted it on tha lat of Janoary,
1840 ; the Toar and Tazia Office introduced it into Oermanr in the year 1880: and it is now in ose in
60 oountriea in Earope, 8 in Amoa, 6 in Aala, 86 in America, and 10 in Oceania. Aboot 60 poatafc
Btampa may be counted in the United States alone. Yan Diemen'a Land poascases ita own ; also Hajti,
Katal, Honolulu, and Liberia. A veiy curioua little book gi?ea an account^ in the form of a catalogue
of the poataffc stamps of all nations. Of these there are more than 1200 varietiea. Not on^ liave tiie
colonies of this and other countriea, aa the Bahamaa and Iceland, their aeparate stamps^ but in America
many dtiea alaa such aa New Orleans and Naahville. No effigy is so frequently on postage atamps as
that of Queen Victoria. Some of the colonies, however, have indulged in a uttle variety. The >e«
Brunswick 17 cents stamp bears on it the figure of the Prince of Wales in a Scotch dress. In the same
oolonv a stamp waa prepared having on it the effigy of Mr. O'ConneU, the local postmaatsrgaienri,
but this ^ypears not to have been ianied.
POULTRY. 691
and Dockwra, at the Penny Foet-houie in Lime-Btreet, formerly the mansion of Sir
Sobert Abdy. Bat this was considered an infringement on the right of the Dnke of
Tork, on whom the Post-ofl&oe revenne had been settled ; and in a snit to try the
question, a verdict was given against Doekwra. He was compensated by a pension,
and appointed Comptroller of the Penny Post» bat was ^smissed in 1698. The first
office was in Comhill, near the 'Change : parods were received. In 1706, one Povqf
■et np the " HalQ>enny Carriac^" private post» which was soon soppressed by the Ptet-
office aathorities. They continaed to convey parcels down to 1765, when the weight
was limited to four oonces. The postage was paid in advance down to 1794. In 1801
the Penny Post became a Twopenny Poet ; and the postage was advanced to thre^
pence beyond the limits of London, Southwark, and Westminster; bat in 1840 they
were consolidated with the Penny General Post.
The Money-Order €>fflee, a distinct branch of the Post-office^ is a handsome new
edifice on the west side of St. Martin's-le-Grand. Money-orderB are issued by millions
daring the year, in nambers and amount, and have considerably added by commission
to the Post-office revenue.
POULTRY.
THE street extending from the east end of Cheapside to Manmon-house-street wa«
anciently occupied by the poulterers' stalls of Stocks Idarket, who in Stew's
time had "but lately departed f^m thence into other streets" (Graoechurch-street
and Newgate-market). In Scalding-alley (now St. Mildred's-court) was a large house
where the poulterers scalded thdr poultry for sale. It was also called Coneyhope, or
Conning-shop, or Cony-shop, lane, from the sign of three conies (rabbits) hanging
over a poulterei^s stall at the lane end. Here was built the chapel of St. Mildred,
called in old records, Scelesia MUdreda super WaUiroohe^ vet in PuUetria ; una cum
eapeUa heata Maria de Conyhop eidem annexa : the site is now occupied by the
church oiSt Mildred in the Poultry, described at p. 192.
On the same side, between Kos. 81 and 82, was the ouUry Compter, a Sheriff's
prison, taken down in 1817, and Poultry Chapel buUt upon the site. To the Compter
were sent persons committed by the L^ Mayor; and to the prisoners was given the
broken victuals from the Mansion-house tables. '* Doctor Lamb,'' the coojuror, ^ed
in this prison, Jan. 13, 1628, after being chased and pelted by the mob across Moor-
fields ; for which outrage the City was fined 6000Z. Here died nx Separatists who had
been committed by Bishop Bonner for hearing the Scriptures read in their own houses.
John Dunton, the bookseller, in 1688, on the day the Prince of Orange entered
liondon, transferred himself and his ngn of the Black JEUmen opposite the Poultry
Compter, where he prospered for ten years. The prison was, in 1806, in a ruinous
condition ; but the court was cheerful, " having water continually running :" it was
the only prison in England that had a ward exclusively for Jews; there were ''the
Bell," and two other rooms, "very strong, studded with nilil%" for felons. The
debtors were allowed to walk upon the leads with the gaoler.
Hatton (1708) calls the Poultry " a broad street of very tall buildings." At No. 22
lived the booksellers Diliy, fomed for their hospitality to literary men: here Dr.
Johnson first met MTilkes; and Boswell, Cumberland, Knox, and Isaac Reed often
met Billy wM the first publisher of Boswell's L^e of Jokneong the firm was also
noted for tibe works of Doddridge, Watts, Lardner, Ac. At No. 81 lived Vemor and
Hood, the publishers of Bloomfield's poems; and the Beamiiei ofSngland and Wales,
an unequal and unsatisfiictory work. Hood was the fitther of Thomas Hood, the wit
and humorist^ who was bom in the Poultry in 1798 : " there was a dash of ink in
my blood (writes Tom) ; my fother wroto two novels, and my brother was decidedly t)f
a literary turn."
No. 26, Poultry, was the old Zm^s Sead Taoemp where Charles II. stopped, on
the day of his restoration, to saluto the landlady. It was» to the last, noticed for its
** lively turtle." In the Beaufoy Collection, in the Corporation Library, are Tokens of
the Mo$9 Tai9er%t in the Poultry, mentioned by Ned Ward (London Spy, 1709) as
Y72
692 CUBI08ITIE8 OF LONDON.
fuDOat for its wine ; the 7%ree Cranes, destroyed in the Great Fire, bnt rebuilt ; and
the Exchange Tavern, 167 1» with, on the obverse, a yiew of the Royal Rxrhsnge
quadrangle. At the Three Cranes met "the ICendicanta* ConTivial Clab^" iob-
•eqoently removed to Dyot-street» St Giles's.
THIMBOSU-fflLL
WAS named from the primroses that formerly grew here in great plenty, when it
was comparatively an untrodden hillock, in the fields between Tottenhiim Coorc
and Hampstead. It has also been called Oreen Berry-Hill, from the names of three
persons executed for the murder of Sir Edmund Berry Godfrey, whose body was found
here, Oct. 17, 1678. On the south side of the hill, during a summer drought, may be
traced a green line, which was once a ditch, extending fitmi east to the groiuid west-
ward now occupied by the New-River Reservoir. In that ditch, near the site of the
Waterworks steam-engine chimney-shaft, was found Godfrey's body, as thus described
in a letter written in 1681 :—
"Ai to the place, it wm in a diteh on the eouth sideof Primroee HQl, lorroimded with divcndoso.
fenced in with high, moondi and ditches ; no roods near, only some deep, dirty lenee, made onlr for the
eonvenienoy of driving oowa in and oat of the ground ; and thoM veiy lanes not eoming near five hna-
dred vards of the plaoe, and impossible for any man on horseback with a dead oorpee belbre him at
midnight to approach, unless gaps were made in the mounds, as the cooitahte and hU assistants fiNind
by experience when they came on horseback thither.**
At the trial, before the Lord Chief- Justice Scroggs, Feb. 10, 1679, the inftmona wit*
nesses, Gates, Prance, and Bedloe, declared that the unfortunate magistrates Godfrey,
" wss waylaid and inveigled into the Palace (Somerset House), under the pretence of
keeping the peace between two servants who were fighting in the yard; Uiat he was
there strangled, lus neck broke, and his own sword run through his body ; that he was
kept four days before they yentured to remove him ; at length his corpse was first
carried in a sedan-chair to Soho, and then on a horse to Primrose Hill," as represented
on one of the several medals struck as memorials of the mysterious murder. The body
was carried to '* the White House," then the farm-house of the estate of Cbalcott'a^
abbreviated to Chalc's^ and then corrupted to Chalk Farm, which was long a tavern
noted for duels fought here. The summit of the hill is 206 feet above the Trinity
high-water mark of the Thames. (See Pbimbose-hill Pask, p. 650.)
Primrose Hill is a portion of the land bequeathed by ** sundry devout men of London**
to St. James's Hosptal, but granted by Henry VI. to Eton Coll^;e, surrendered to
Henry VIII., but again returned to the College, who, a few years since, transferred it
to the Government in exchange for a piece of crown-land near Windsor; which was
done principally through the exertions of Mr. Hume, M.P., and an Association of per-
sons formed for securing the ground to the public. In the ridge adjoining is the Prim-
rose Hill Tunnel of the London and North- Western Railway ; its extent is 8493 feet,
or more than five-eighths of a mile : in tunnelling near the base of the hiU* fossil
nautili were discovered.
The Viswjrom FrUmvte SiU comprltes not only LondoiL with its masses of booses and hondreds
of spires, but also the once rural retreats of Hampstead and Highgat^ now almost become portions of
the great town itselt Ohsposite is St. John's Wood, and in the rear of St. John's Wood the gxaeefiil
spire of Harrow-on-the-HUl; neaier the spectator are the dose streets of Portland Town, and the
uegant domain of Begenf s Park. The eye, alter resting upon St Paul's as the nudeos o( the vast
dty, glances over Islington and Hollowar to the undulating hills of Kent and Sur^y ; and upon a clear
day maj be descried the bright rooft of the Crystal Palaoe at Sydenham.
TBISONS.
UPWARDS of 80,000 criminals and other persons (exdusive of debtors) are stated to
pass through the metropolitan gaols, houses of correction, brideweUs, and peni-
tentiaries, every year. The number of prisons is smaller than half a century since ;
but the prisons themselves are of much larger extent. In 1796 there were eighteen
prisons in London, which in 1854 had been reduced one-third. About the year 1849
Mr. Dixon wrote in the DtUly News an account of the chief prisons, which was re-
printed in 1860 ; and Mr. Henry Mayhew's work on the Criminal Prisons, 1855, was
PRISONS. 693
completed in 1863. Mr. Dixon tells ns that, ** All the great London gaols are pro-
vided with stands of arms, hy which men oould be armed in a few minutes ; beside 8
sigiial-rocketS) which wonld instantly convey intelligence to the Horse Guards, and to
the barracks in St. James's and Hyde Parks, of any attack ; so that 2000 or 9000
men coold be concentrated at any prison in half an hoar."
Borough CTomptxb, Mill-lane, Tooley-street (solely for debtors from the Borongh
of Sonthwark), was originally part of the church of St. Margaret, at St. Margaret's
Hill, where the prison ate is denoted by Counter (Compter) street.
BniDEWELL, Bridge-street, Blackfriars, the prison taken down ih 1862, is described
at pp. 62-65.
Brixton Cottittt House ov Correction, Surrey, was bntlt in 1820, for prisoners
sentenced to hard-labour. The plan of the prison is octagonal, with a chapel in the
centre. The prisoners are separated into classes; here have been imprisoned at one
time 840. The treadmill, adapted from an old contrivance, by Cubitt, an engineer,
of Lowestoft, was first set np at Brixton Prison in 1817; from its severity of applica-
tion it became very nnpopnlar, and " Brixton" became a low cant word.
CiTT Prison, Camden-road, Holloway, is built npon land originally purchased by
the Corporation for a cemetery, during the raging of the cholera in 1832. The extent
is 10 acres within the boundary-wall, 18 feet high. The prison, designed by Bnnning,
18 bnilt in the castellated style, has fortified gateways, and is embattled throughout the
six radiating wings ; the number of cells is 436 ; the bnilding is fire-proof; the venti-
lation is by a shaft 146 feet high ; the water-supply from an Artesian well, 819 feet
deep. The prisoners are variously employed; and the discipline is neither entire sepa-
ration nor association, but the middle coarse. The prison was first opened Oct. 6,
1852. Cost, about 100,000^
CxxRKENWELL Brisewbll. — ^There were formerly two gaols in Clerkenwcll, adjoining
each other ; the oldest was the New Prison, or Bridewell, built by the Justices in 1615,
u^n the site of* the Cage," for the punishment and employment of rogues and vaga-
bonds of Middlesex. On Shrove Tuesday, 1617, the turbulent London 'prentices ** had
a cast at the New BridewelL" Between 1622 and 1626. many popish priests were
imprisoned here, among whom was ColUngton, whose release was g^nted at the in-
stance of Count Gbndomar. A friend of the wife of Pepys was imprisoned here in 1661 ;
and the Diary tells ns that he went, December II, with his *' wife by coach to Clerk-
enwell to see Mrs. Margaret Penny, who is at school there," undergoing correction, of
course. On Shrove Tuesday, 1668, a mob of the London 'prentices again assailed the
New Prison, and released a number of their riotous associates imprisoned there. In
1679 the greatest part of the prison was burnt down, suspected to be the wicked
work of a papist prisoner. About 1630, Taylor, the water poet, noticed the prison as ,
" A Jayle for heretloki,
For Brownists, FamiliiU, and Schismaticks."
In 1651 several enthuriasta were committed here for blasphemy. In 1669, Richard
Baxter, the Nonconibrmist, was confined here for preaching in his own house at Acton.
The honest jailor allowed him to walk in the garden at Clerkenwell, and while here he
published the second part of his Direetioiu to the Converted. Here, 1775, was com-
mitted the first person convicted of dog-stealing. This bridewell was taken down
about 1804. (See New Prison, p. 699.)
Clink, The, Banknde, was named from b^ng the prison of the " Clink Liberty,**
in Southwark, belonging to the Bishops of Winchester; and was used in old time " for
such as would brabble, fVey, or break the peace on the said bank, or in the brothel-
houses." (Stow.) About 1745, the old prison, at the comer of Maid-lane, was
abandoned, and a dwelling on the Bankride appropriated in its stead ; this was burnt
in the riots of 1780, and no other prison has since been established for the liberty.
The palace of the Bishops of Winchester, at Bankside, was made a prison during
the Civil Wars : Sir Kenelm Digby, while confined here as a Boyalist, wrote his refu-
tation of Browne's Beligio Medici.
, CoLDBATH Fields Prison, or House ov Corrsotion, is for criminals sentenced
694 CURIOSITIES OF LONDON.
to ihort terms of impriionmentk and is sopported oat of the ooonty (Middlesex) nto.
The prisonen are compelled to lahoor as a pmiiflhment and towards their sapport
The prison is named Aram the Coldhath well, the site of which is now oocnpied by the
treadwheel. The anginal House of Correction was bnilt in the rdgn of James L,
the City authorities giving 5002. towards it, for keeping their poor emplojed. TIm
present gnol was erected hy the county, in 1794, on the esstem dope of the Flee^
on Gardner's Farm, or Field, the ground being considerably raised ; architect, Chsris
Middleton ; cost, 65,6562., proridlng for only 232 prisoners, in separate cells, npoa the
plan of John Howazd. It was opened in 1794^ hat soon got into disrepute; "mo,
women, and boys were indiscriminately herded together in this chief connty prino,
without employment or wholesome control ; while smoking, gaming, unging, and ereiy
species of hratelizing converMtion, tended to the unlimited advancement of crime sod
pollutaon." (Chestorton's Benelationt of PrUon Life), The dungeons were compowpd
of bricks and tUmeB, without fire or any furniture but straw, and no other heirisr
against the weather but iron grates. The Mixuster Pitt, in the year 1799,
the pxison, and found the prisonen without fire or candles, denied all
exposed to the cold and rain, allowed to breathe the air out of thtar oeUs only for an hoar,
Ac ; Pitt ironically supposing that those who managed the prison " kindly subjected
the prisoners to so mudi pain in this world, that less punishment might be inflicted aa
them in the next" Coleridge and Southey, in the Levirs Walk, song :
"Is he psM'd thnrngh Coldbsfth Fields ha looked
At a toUtarr cd^
And he was weu pleued, for it gave Um ahiut
For improrlnff his prifone m hell;
Ho saw a tornkw tie a ihlefe hands,
With a cordial tug and a jerk;
* mmbly,' quoth he, * a man'e flngen can move
When hie heart is in hli work/"
Mncfa ecendsloDS mismanagement oontiniied so late as 1820. Captain Chssterton, In his Svidaoe
before the Maffietntee, etated that ** on becoming Govexnor of the Honae of Correctian he fbond it ami
to fleece the piiKmexfl of every IkrtfaingthejpooaeMed or oonldprocareih>m their fHende — all the offiflR*
having paid for their poets, and being eager to indemniiy thenuelvea. If a prisoner bad no moner bs
was kicked and buflbted in the most merdiees manner. The visit of a masutrate was alwajjB knowa
and nrepared for beforehand. Eveiy cell was a dep6t for contrdband artides^ espedallj for wine and
qrfrits. The prisoners slept three in a cell."
The MiMtf system means silence Inrdaj and sleep at night in espante cells. The siarfc system mans
sobstitation of a labour sentence for lime sentences; instead of a sentence to fouiteen yeain* imprisas'
ment, the culprit would be sentenced to perform a certahi quantity of labour, represented by marks
Instead of mon^y i the criminal to be liberated when the prescribed task was aooompllshed, whether hs
oocnpied one vear or twenty about it Here 272 persons were employed to superintend 88S prisonen;
yet even this large staif were found insufficient to prevent all intieroourse among tlie criminals. Hie
neoessitT for punishment perpetually arose. There were no less than 8794 punUunenis toUiotad tat
talking In a angle year.
The goremor Aris, fonneriy a baker in Clerkenwell, was denounced as ** a reputed
tyrant and torturer ;" .and in 1800, a riot took place in the prison, which the Clerken-
well Tolunteers supprened. Volunteers from the a^acent perishee then watched the
prison, and the Clerkenwell cavalry paraded round the outer gates ibr several nighti
to keep the mob off. Aris was dismisBed from his office, and he died in poverty. Is
1880, several persons were confined here fbr selling unstamped newspapers, when aa
attack bdng meditated to liberate the '< political martyrs," the prison was put in a
state of defence : " we received," says the late governor. Colonel Chesterton, ** in addi*
tion to what we already possessed, firom the Tower, 25 carbines, 2000 rounds of ball-
cartridge, and 1500 lumd-grenades;" scaling ladders were manufactured, and tbe
governor's house was fortified, but no attack was made. In 1834 the silent system
was introduced, and 914 piisonerB were suddenly apprised that **all interoommumea-
tion by word, gesture, or sign was prohibited." The treadwheel had been previoi^y
introduced, 12,000 feet of ascent being the amount of the daily '* hard labour" 8entenc«b
which being injurious to health, was limited to 1200 feet. The picking of oakum or
coir is enforced here^ the dlent associated system is continued, and t£e prison "has
the thorough aspect of an old English jaiL"
The prison uniform is coarse woollen blue cloth for misdemeanants^ and dark gr^ for ftlons: esdi
prisoner is known only by Ihe number on his back; and a star upon tbe arm denotes good ccmdnet.
The workshop is an interesting scene; but the ookum-picking-room, with its felon faces, is a painftal
sights snd the treadwheel, employing 820 prisoners at a time,lB another repulsive Ceature. Carpentoi^
PBISOHrS. 695
tinmeD, blacktmiths, and other haadlcnUftimen work here; and in the ground is the upper port of •
Teseel, with masto and rigiring, for teaching boye the sea-serrioe; there are alao idioolt and reform*-
toryTiaita. (See Dixon's XomIoii Pri«m«, 1860.)
Large additioiu have been made to this prison. In 1830, a vagrants' ward for 160
-was added, then a female ward for 800 ; the gpud baa proper aooommodation for
upwarda of 1500 prisoners, males only. There were formerly six distinct treadwheels^
there is now treadwheel labour for 160 prisoners : the mill grinds wheats and from the
floor which it yields (about 30 cwt. daily) bread for the three coonty prisons is made.
In 1862, there were here npwards of 1700 felons^ misdemeanants, and vagrants, and
sometimes are 700 or 800 in excess of the nmnber of cells. The annnal ordinary
charge per prisoner has been estimated at 211. 19*. 4d. Money received in the year
ibr prodncts of the prisoners' labonr, 1901Z. 3#. 6d, ; prisoners' earnings in work for
the coonty, 48002. 18#. Sd.— viz., shoemaking, bricklaying, and other repairs, tuloring^
washing, needlework, and painting. There are two chapels and two chaplains, two
flchoolmasten^ and abundance of books of religious and secnlar instruction. The prison
is well described in Pinks's IRitofy qf CUrkemoeU, 1865.
In 1820 the Cato-atreet ooniptrators were lodged here hefbre being sent to the Tower. John Hont
was imprisoned here for a libel on George lY. ** I somelimes," says Mr. Bedding, " beguiled an hour
with him at oheas. He had a lofty and oomlbrtable, though small apartment, at the top of the prison,
where the air was excellent Townsend, one of the Bow-street officers, was goremor of tl^ prison, and
an excellent goremor he made. John Hunt had the piiTilege of walking for a con^^ of hours daily in
the governors garden, for which he akme waa indebted to tiie governor himaelCr— Qyrua Bedding^s
JUcolUeUefM,
In 1868, the prison was enlarged by the addition of 326 cells on the separate syBtem,
heated, lighted, and ventilated, and each furnished with a bed or hammock ; prerioosly«
About 260 slept eveiy night on the floor of a work-room. The wall circuit has also
been extended, so as to indose the piece of vacant ground fadng the governor's house^
and this has been rebuilt, as well as the lofty prison gateway, with the three sabres
«nd the conventional fSetters, a pair of gigantic knocken* Ac The warders wear blue
nniforms instead of the gaolers' habit as of old.
Fleet Pbibok is described at pp. 844^346.
OiLTSPTTB-STBEBT CoiCFTBB, Or the City Houso of Correction, was built by George
Danoe^ in 1791, to supersede the wretched prison in Wood-street, whence the prisonbis
were removed in 1791 : it was then only used for debtors, but subsequently ibr remands
and committals for trial, and minor offenders. The rear of the prison abutted on
Christ's Hospital, and its towers are virible from the yard : the happy shouts of the
boys at play were heard by the prisoners, and the balls often fell witUn the prison-
yards, as if to remind the fsdlen inmates how much innocence they had outiived ! In
1808 Sheriff Phillips described Oiltspur-street* with its comer, entitled "Ludgate"
(for citizen debtors* clergymen, proctors, and attorneys), and the whole prison, as
greatly overcrowded by the removal to it of the Poultry Compter debtors. The soli-
tary confinement was in ftt)nt of the building, where, however, the prisoners could see
the busy street* and the crowds to witness executions in front of Newgate. About 6000
priBoners were annually committed to Qiltspur-street ; but it was one of the worst
managed and least secure of the metropolitan prisons, and the escapes from it were the
most frequent. As a proof of the lenity of its management, it is related that, on the
death of Mr. Teague^ the humane governor of Giltspnr-street Compter, in 1841, nearly
every prisoner wore a black crape hat-band I The prison was dosed in 1854^ when
the keeper had a retiring allowance of 300Z. a year : it has since been taken down.
HoBSBXOVOSB-LAin Qaoi^ on the south ride of Newington Causeway, was built
upon the plan of John Howard, in 1791-9 (Qeorge GwUt, architect), upon the site of
A market-garden. It is a common gaol for the county of Surrey, under the Sherifl^
Court of Quarter Sesrions, and Magistrates, and is fm debtors and criminals. Three
sides of the prison quadrangle are for the confinement of felons, and one ride for debtors,
the latter arranged in clnsans Among several small benefactions to the debtors is a
donation made to the old White Lion Prison In Southwark (mentioned by Stow), by
Mrs. Margaret Symoott* or ESleanor Qwynne, of 66 penny-loaves, every eight weekly
SsM^og from the Chamberlain's office. (Manning and Bray's Surret/^ voL iii. Appw^>
696 CURIOSITIES OF LONDON.
See Inks, page 458). The employments are knitting, netting, oaknm-ptckiiig:, lime-
washing, and cleansing the gaol : it will contain aboat 400 prisoners.
Upon the roof of the north lodge were executed, on Feb. 21, 1803, Colonel Edward
Marcus Despard and six associates, who had been tried and found guilty, by a speckl
commission, of high treason ; Richard Patch for murder, April 8, 1806 ; and Xov. 13,
1849, the Mannings, husband and wife, for murder. Leigh Hunt was imprisoned hen
for a libel on the Prince Regent, in 1813; and here he was first introdnced to Lord
Byron. {See Leigh Hunt's Antohiography, vol. ii.) In June, 1849, three burglan
escaped from their cells in this prison by means of a key which they made from a
pewter pot ; but they were recaptured in scaling the 20-feet walL
LuDOATB Pbibon IS described at page 638, where the romantic story of Sir Stepbea
Forster is narrated. This ancient City gate was made a prison in 1373, for poor debtors
who were free of the City, who, however, had to pay lodgings, chamber-rent, and for
water, since Porster's provisions were neglected. When the gate was taken down, the
prisoners were removed to the London Workhouse, in Bishopsgate-street.
This prison had tome corioni recolatloiM. To preserve order the master, keeper, and paeosen
ehoee from among themaelvee a reader of divine service; an upper steward, e&lled the master of the
box; an ander steward, and seven assistants by tnms daily ; a running aaristant, two chiirch«ardni%
a scavenger, a chamberlain, a running poet; and the criers or beggars at the gate (such aa we remeni-
ber at the Fleet), who were generally six in number. The reader, besides attending to prajets, bad ta
ring the bell twice a day, aiid for a quarter of an hour before nine at night» to warn strangen to
depart the prison : besides his aalaxr and fees, he had a dish of meat out of the Lord Majorca Iwskek
The master of the box, with the under steward, assistants, and churchwardens were dected monthly by
the prisoners; and the election of other olBoers was conducted in the roost orderly manner. The offi-
oiatmg assistant coald commit a prisoner to the stocks, or shackles, for abusing any person, and be had
to see the cellar cleared out at ten o'clock ; he had also to set up candles, look alter the dock, Ac ThB
ohurchwardenn had to call to prayers, after the bell had done rtoging. Tlie scavenger had to k»ep the
prison clean, to fetter offenders, and put them in the stocl». The chamberlain took care of all the
prison bedding and linen, and appointed lodgings for new comers, and gave notice to sb-angers to leave
at ten o'clock. The running post had to fetch in a basket the broken meat irom the Lcra Mjtyor's
table, provisions from the clerk of the market, from private fkmiliea, and the diarities given in tha
streets. Two of the criers begged daily at the gates ; he at Ludgate-ctreet was allowed a fourth of wh»
was given, and he on the Blackfriars* side one-half. Notwithstanding this complex madiinery cormH
tion crept in : the keeper and turnkey of the prison claimed fees without either right or reascm. The
Itrisonert had to pay 8<f. a month tat clean sheets, and not above two were to lie in a bed: for a cooclit
d. a week ; for chamber^room, ftc. Id. a week for lamps and candles. ▲ lireeman of the Ci^, on being
arrested for debt, could insist upon being carried to the Lndgate Prison ; bailillk' fees, 4e. or 5e.« due
%i. If new comers could not pav the demands, the clothes of the poor prisoner were privately taken
from him, and not returned until the money was paid. He was, however, allowed to go abruul, on
giving good security to return at night, for the charge of h keeper's fee, It. Od.; head turnkey, 2». 6d!.
Often the discharge fees came to more thsn the debt Hungry, and at times almost naked, the poor
prisoners lay in these unsanitary dens until death. There was a gift to this priscm, called Nell Gwynne's
dole, distributed to prisoners every ninth week. Some of the old statues from Ludgate remain, but
railway trains now rattle over the prison site.
As early as 1218, Ludgate was a common gaol for felons taken in London City ; and
80 lately as 1457, Newgate, and not the Tower, was the prison for the nobility and
great officers of State. In 1252, one John Offrem, committed to this prison for having
killed a prior, escaped, which so displeased King Henry III. with the City, that the
aherifik were sent to the Tower, and there remained a month. In 1481, in oonsequence
of a false complaint made by the keeper of Newgate, eighteen freemen were taken to
the compters, and chained as if they had been felons.
Mabbhalbba Psison, "so called as pertaining to the Marshallea of England"
(iStofo), stood in High-street, SoathwarkI Here were confined persons guilty of
piracies and other offences on the high seas. {See page 509). In 1377 it was broken
into by a mob of sailors, who murdered ji genUeman confined in it fisr killing one (^
their comrades, but had been pardoned. During the rebellion of Wat Tyler, in 13S1,
the marshal of this prison, and the governor of the King's Bench, Sir John Imwortfa,
was seized and beheaded.
** To the Marsbalsea Bishop Bonner was sent, on losing his see of London for sdherenoe to Borne.
A man meeting him cried, ' Good morrow, bishop quondam ;' to which Bonner replied, * Farewell, knave
semper.' He lived ton years in the Marsbalsea, and med there Sept 6. 1569; ne was buried at mid-
night, with other prisoners, in St. George's. Sonthwark. In the -reigns of Heniy VIII., Hary, and
EUtabeth, the Marsbalsea was the second prison in importance in London, being infinior only to the
Tower. Ghristopher Brooke, the poet, was confined in the Marsbalsea for being concerned in the
wedding of Dr. Donne. George Wither was committed here for writing the satire, Abtaet Stript aad
Whipti but he procured his release by his Saiire to the JTm^."— Dixon, Xondon Frittnu, abridg^.
Garrick played for the benefit of the prisoners, at Druiy-lane, *' being the first application of this
PRISONS. 697
kind," iheProooktd Wife, Sir John Bnite, Oarrlck; Lady FuidftiL Mrs. Clive; Lady Brato, Mn.
Pritohnrd. Faree of Dnke andlfo Duke, Trappolin, Mr. Woodward. TickeU to be had at the Marshal-
sea Prison, Soathwark.
The Marshalsea escaped the rioU of 1780. The old prison, which contained ahont
sixty rooms and a chapel, occupied the site of the house, No. 119, High-street; it was
then removed to other premises nearer St. George's Church ; and these were taken
down in 1842, when the prisoners were drafted to the Queen's Bench. (See Mab-
SHAX8EA and Palace Coubt, page 509.)
MiUiBAKK Pbison, Westminster, near the foot of Vauxhall Bridge, is the largest
penal establishment in England. The site was purchased, in 1799, of the Marquis of
Salisbury, for 12,0002. ; but the building was not commenced until 1812, when a con-
tract was entered into by the Qoyemment with Jeremy Bentham ; and the edifice is a
modification of his " Panopticon, or Inspection House." It was next changed into a
regular Government prison for criminals, adult and juvenile, and became the general
dep6t for transports waiting to be drafted to other prisons, or placed on shipboard for
dockyard labour; and here are sent the most reckless and hardened criminals from all
parts of the country. The soil of the site is a deep peat, and the buildings are laid on
a solid and ezpenave concrete ; but the situation is low and unhealthy. The prison
<x>st half a million of money, or about 500/. for each cell ! The only entrance is in the
Thames front. The ground-plan consists of six pentagonal buildings, radiating from
a circlei, wherein is the governor's house; and each line terminates in a tower in the
oater octagonal wall» which incloses about 16 acres; 7 covered with buildings, in-
cluding 12 chapels and airing-yards, and 9 laid out as gardens. . The corridors are
upwards of 3 miles long ; there are about 1550 cells ; and from 4000 to 5000 persons
pass through the prison yearly. There are 40 staircases, making in all 8 miles distance.
In 1843 the name of the Penitentiary was changed, by Act of Parliament, to the
MiUbank Prison. From the general resemblanoe of its conical-roofed towers to those
of the Bastile du Temple at Paris, as well as from the severity of its system, the Peni-
tentiary has been stigmatized as " the English Bastile."
"The dark cells, 20 step* below the ffroond-floor, are iinall. Ill-ventilated, and doubly barred: and no
gllmiMe of day ever enters this fearfbl place, where the offender is locked up for three days, ud upon
oreoa and water, and haa only a board to sleep on,"— Dixon, 18S0.
Xewgate, on the east side of the Old Bailey, is now used as a gaol of detention for
persons about to be tried at the adjacent Central Criminal Court ; here are also con-
fined prisoners convicted of assaults or offences on the high seas, and those who are
under sentence of death. Until 1815, when Whitecross-street prison was built, New-
gate was used for debtors as well as felons : hence its ** Debtors' Door."
Sheriff Hoare, 1740-1, tells us how the names of the prisoners in each gaol were read over to him
and his collea^e : the keepers acknowledged themr, one by one, to be in their custody ; and then ten-
dered the keys, wnieh were deU?ered back to them again ; and after having executed the Indentures, the
Sheriflli partook of sack and walnuts, provided by the keepers of the prison, at a tavern adjoining Guild-
hall. Formerly the SheriA attended the Lord Mayor, on Easter-eve, *' through the streets, to collect
charity for the prisoners in the City prisons."
Old Newgate prison was over and about the City gate '' so called, as built after the
four principal gates were reckoned old.'' It was merely a tower or appendage to the
gate, which stretched across the west end of Newgate-street ; still, fiom the time of
King John to that of Charles II., it was sufficient prison-room for the City and county.
It was originally ** Chamberhiin Gate," and was rebuilt by the executors of Sir Richard
Whittington, whose statue, with the traditional cat, was pkced in a niche upon the
wall. Here were also statues of Concord, Mtrcy, Justice and Truth, Peace and
Plenty, Ac.
** In the Beanfoy Collection, at OnlldhalL is a Newgate Prison Token, No. 715. Obv. Belonging to
ye cellor on the masters side at IMO. tUv. Newgate— View of Newgate and the Debtors' Prison.
This token was struck as a monetary medium among the prisoners, and is of the utmost rarity and
interest, from the delineation of the prison it afford^^'— Bum's Dneripiim Caialogut, p. 138.
Kewgate was restored by Wren in 1672,* after the Qreat Fire ; but it was burnt to
the ground in the riots of 1780, when the rioters stole the keys, which were found
some time after in the basin of water in St. James's-square. Dr. Johnson and Dr,
Scott (Lord Stowell) saw Newgate in ruins, "with the fire yet glowing :" the iron ban
were eaten through, and the stones vitrified by the intense heat.
698 CUBI08ITIE9 OF LONDOK.
On the top ofOld Newgate u shown in printi, wm a windmill, an early attempt at ventiiatuB.
* For," laya Chamberlain, in 1770, " a oontagioaa diaeaae, called the gaol dutemper, has freqoadr
deatrojed great nnmbers of priaoneri, and eren carried its contagion into courts of joatieeb when trials
were held. To prevent aa mooh as ponible these dreadAil effects, a TentUator haa been plaeed oo tb
top of Newgate, to expel the fool air, and make way for the admiselan of soch as is freah; and doris^
the time that the seenons are held herba are alao strewed in the eoort of Jostice, and in the
leading thereto, to prerent inAction,'' which praotioe Is oontinned to this our.
the oelebr^ted Admomiiion to ParUatMnt/or ih« Btformation qf Ckurek DiseiplM* ; and here, in prbca,
they maintained the Whitgift oontroversy. Dr. Leighton (ten years), for writing his Appeal to F^-
Uam0mi. George Wither, the poet, for writing the Vox Vuigi. Geoxve Saekrille, poet, FalM,and Earl
of Doraet, occnpted a cell in Newgate. In 1671, Penn, the loonder of PennsyhraaJa, waa eonfised hoc
aiz montha, for streei>preaching: Titos Oates and Dangerfield were aent here, and Dangcrfield died a
the prison. At tlie Berolntion, Biah<^ Ellis and L^bnm were confined here, and were rlaitcd by
Bnmet Defoe waa committed to Newgate for writing his Skoritte Wmf with JDinntorv; and here te
wrote An Od« to A* PiOonft and commenced his Revtew, May>t Benuirai, suspected of plotting with
Bookwood against King William, died in Newnte, after seren years' confinement. Bidiud Akcreiaa,
Boewell's firiend, was gaoler. (Abridged flrom Dixon on the London Fritont.) Dr. Dodd, while impri-
soned here, finished a comedy (Sir Mogtr do OovorUg) : and after convleticm, wrote hia JVmom nfcwgtn.
Jack Sheppard escaped flrom ** the Osstle in Newgate ;" and firom ** the Middle Stone Room," after his
being retaken in Drnry-lane. His portrait was painted in the prison by Sir James ThomhilL The
JlMj^t Qpsra was first caUed ^ ilTcvMto PofloraZ. The trials are reported in the if—fiato Oilfrfar ;
and in the AnmaU qfNowgaU, by the Ber. Mr. YUettSb Ordinau.
The preeent " pruon of Newgate" was deBigned, in 1770, by Qeorge Daoee, RA^
and is one of his finest works : the architectore bespeaks the purposes of the stmctnre,
and its solidity and secnrity at once impress the spectator. The first stone was laid,
23rd May, 1770, by Lord Mayor Beokford, this being his last public act. Jofaa
Howard objected to the pUm, but was overruled. While yet unfinished, in 1780,
Newgate was attacked by Lord George Gordon's rioters, who broke open the doors of
the tenanted portion, and set 300 prisoners at large ; they then set fire to the building,
which was reduced to a shell : it was repaired and completed in 1782. The plan con-
sists of a centre (the keeper's house) ; two lodges, stamped with gloomy grandeur and
severity ; and two wings of yards right and left, but not suited fbr the daanfication or
reformation of the prisoners. The fii^ades are 297 feet and 116 feet long^ and are
externally a good specimen of prison architecture. The outer walls are three fieet
thick. Early in the present century nearly 800 prisoners were confined here at one
time, when a contagious fever raged. In 1808> SherifT Phillips states, the women in
Newgate usually numbered from 100 to 180; and each had only 18 inches breadth
of sleeping-room, packed like slaves in the hold of a slave-ship ! In this shrievalty, the
cells were first OTdered to be whitewashed twice a year. Mrs. Fry describes the women
as " swearing, gaming, fighting, singing, dancing, drinking, and dressing up in men's
clothes ;" and in 1838» gambling, card-playing, and draughts were common among the
male prisoners. The chapel has galleries for the male and female prisonera : below,
and in the centre of the floor, is placed a chair for the condemned culprit ; but the
public are no longer admitted to hear the " condemned sermons" on Sundays before
executions : the criminal's coffin was also placed at his feet during the service ! For^
merly sixty persons have beevseen on one Sunday in " the condemned pew," the woodr
work of which was cut with the name of many a hardened wretch. Here the Bev.
W. Dodd, D.D., preached his own funeral sermon from Acts xv. 23, on Friday, June 6,
1777, before he was hanged for forgery. The custom practised for many years in
Newgate of having a small portion of scripture read daily and explained, lor the pri-
soners to meditate upon, was always attended with good results, but sinoe the prisoneis
have been kept separately the influence of it has been far greater.
In the lower room, on the south side of the prison, died Lord Gtoorge Gordon, of
the gaol distemper, after several years' imprisonment, for libelling the Queen of Francei
The culprit in the furthest cell on the g^und-floor is within a yard of the bnsjr
passers-by in the street. In the hall is a collection of ropes ; alsocasts taken Ihun the
heads of the principal criminals who have been executed in the front of the prison.
The kitchen was formerly the hall in which debtors were recdved : it opens by " the
Bebtors* Door," through which criminals pass to the scaffi)ld in the street, a passage
being made through the kitchen by black curtains. The place of execution was changed
to this spot in December, 1783, at the suggestion of John Howard .
PBI80N8. 69^
'W^ithin the waUs ii fteemeterT, where, siBoe 1820, hire heen baried the bodies of executed criminale :
the first deposited there were Thistlewood and Uie other Gato-street conspirators. The bodies are
buried, withoat service, at eight in tho erening of the daj of their exeoaticm, and at each grave is a tali
atone with the rodely-insciibed name.
The Press-yard, between Newgate and the Old Bailey CSoorts, is described t^t page
556. It was formerly costomary for the Lord Mayor and Sherifb, when proceeding
to proclaim Bartholomew Fair, on Sept. 2, to stop at Newgate* and drii^ " a cool
taiikard" to the health of the Governor of Newgate ; but this practice was disoontinned
in the second mayoralty of Alderman Matthew Wood in 1821. Two watchmen axe
stationed on the roof <i the prison during the night.
One of the last peraoDfl confined in Newgate for a political offbnoe was Mr. Hobhoose (now Lord
Broughton). for pnblishing his pamphlet; Ths Tr^Umg Mittaka; when Lord Byron's prediction, that
Ilobhooae " having foamM himself into a reformer, would snbside into Newnte," luerally came to
pose : aad great was the enthusiasm of the people in the street at sedng Mr. HoDhooseTs hat above the
prison panq;Mtk as he walked upcm therrooi for ezendae I
The cost of maintaining the prisoners in Newgate is 87/. a head annnally. The old
associated syltem is pnrsned here; the silent system at Millbank, in Coldhath-fieldSy
and TothiU-fields ; and the separate system at PentonviUe, Millbank, and the House of
Detention ; yet Newgate has the advantage, as seven oat of eight of its prisoners never
return to it. Nevertiieless, says fm official authority ;
** Newgate prison is a complete quarry of stone^ withoat any order or possibility of order in it. There
are a vast mimber of rooms in it, over which there is no inspection whatever ; and nothing as a prison
can rcniedj ii. It has a most imposing e&terior, which is perhaps its greatest use as a deterrer from
crime, and the worst possible interior.'*-— CbfrfoM WiUiawu, Priaom Intpeetor,
The interior of the prison has been reconstructed upon the ceUnlar system, similar to that of the
Gty Prison, HoUowsj. The front portion of Newgate was completed in 1868. In the middle is a large
central corridor that oocanies the enttre length of the structure. On each side of it are four galleriM^
which commnnicttte with the cells of the prisoners There are no fireplaces in the cells, but warming
and ventilation is provided tv by the admission of fresh air from an alUtnde of 40 feet, oonveyed down-
wards, and which, pMsfng throiwh a tunnel under the building, comes in contact with a series of pipes
heated bv steam. This heated afr then nasses through flues tiwt have an area of 00 inches, and are
inserted in the middle of the walls, one nue passing to each cell, on the opposite side of which is a laige
chamber common to all, by which the air is oonveyed to a ventilating shaft, that is highly rarified of
colls of steam-pipes that generate the circulation. For the purposes of warming and ventilation, two
steam boilers have been provided, each 18 feet long by 6 feet 6 indies diameter. The basement of the
structure ocmtains the reception and punishment cells, bath-rooms, boiier-honse, and stores. The
building ia so isolated all round that if a nrisoner, in his attempt to escape, even nined the roof^ he
could not posaibly escape without running toe risk of losing his lift. The greatest improvements that
appear to have been efbcted by the system adopted in the new boildiog, are separating the pri-
soners, aflbrding adequate accommodation for the officers in charge of the inmates, and the provision of
airiug-yards to admit of external exercise.
Nsw PusoN was erected towards the elose of the seventeenth century, south of
Clerkenwell Bridewell, intended " as an ease for Newgate," for such as were charged
with misdemeanours. Jack Sheppard was committed here, with Edgeworth Bess, on a
charge of felony, when they marvellously escaped. In 1774-5, the New Prison was
rebuilt : on the rusticated stone gate was sculptured a large head expressive of criminal
despair and anguish, chains with handcufis, fetters, Ac In Howard's time, 1776, there
'Were 83 felons confined here, with the county allowance of a penny-loaf a day, and each
new comer had to pay 1«. 44* for " garnish." Near the outer gate was a trap, whence
the prisoners were supplied with liquors at a wicket made for the purpose in the walk
In the Riots of 1780, the rioters with pickaxes broke open the gates and let the pri-
soners out. In 1812, the prisoners here were not even provided with straw, but slept
in their rugs on the boarded floor, and the county allowance was but one pound of
bread a day. In 1818, this prison was almost entirely rebuilt on a more extennve
plan, and cost upwards of 36,000/. to provide for 240 prisoners in separate cells. In
1845 the prison was taken down, and upon its site was built the House of Deten-
tion for the reception of prisoners before trial, the accused only : the first built upon
that plan, modified firom the separate system at PentonviUe ; there are 286 cells.
Here are shown Jack Sheppard's fetters, double the usual weight; and the boundary-
wall of New Prison remains.
PxKToirviLLB PsiBOV, in the road from the foot of Pentonville-hill to HoUoway, and
<>^er against Bamsbury, was commenced April 10, 1840, during the administration of
Lord John RusseU, and completed in 1842, at a cost of nearly 100,0001., upon the phtn
of Lieut-CoL Jebb^ R.E. The area within the lofty walls is 6} acres^ bendes a cor-
700 CUSI0SITIE8 OF LONDON.
tain-wall, with massive posterns in fronb^ where is a frowning^ entrmnoe-gatewar, ::•
arched head filled with portcollis-work, and not altogether unpicturesqiie ; free
the main building rises a lofty Italian clock-tower. From the inspection or oentxal kal
radiate five wings or g^eries, on the ndes of fonr of which are the oel]% in tiiret
stories.
Each cell u 13| feet long br 7\ feet broad, and 9 feet high : it huantroa watei^«loaet»paa.aBd«»fe'
basin tnppHed with water; a tbree-lem;ed atool, table, and shaded gas-boraer, and a alnn^ faarBsgUL
with mattrma and blankets ; in the door is an eyelet hole, that the ofBoer maj inspeet from aatMsk,
and the meals are oonT^ed through a apring trap-door.
The heating is from stoves in the basement ; and the ventilation is bj an immesv
shaft from the roof of each wing. The chapel is fitted up with separate stalk c
sittings for the prisoners, of whom the officers have the entire sorveiUanoe. The orgu.
is by Gray. The exercising-yards, between and in front of the mnga. are radiare^
so that an officer may watd^ the prisonersi each in a walled yard. The discipluw i
the separate system and the silent system modified ; and here were formerly sent ess-
victs for probation, prior to transportation to the penal colonies, the plan being i:
adaptation from the Philadelphian system. Each cell cost 1802.; victnallii^ mlI
management nearly 86/. a head; and the prisoners' laboor is nnprodoctivc. Tlu
building was first named *' the Model Prison," as the plan was proposed for the sero^
gaols in the kingdom ; bnt, from its partial success, the name has been changed to the
Pentonville Prison, although it is in the parish of Islington. The prison has be«c a
costly experiment, and was planned so as to be eanly altered in case of failure. A sec a
views of the Model Prison appeared in the Illmtr<Ued London New*, 1843.
PouLTBT CoicPTEB is described at page 62S.
Queen's Psisoir, Southwark, formerly the King's Bench and Qaeen's Bend, w«
ntuated here in the reign of Richard II., when the Kentish Rebels, under Wat T^kr.
"brake down the houses of the Marshalsey and King's Bench, in SoathwaAe."
(Slow,) To this prison the Prince of Wales, afterwards Henry V., was committed k
CJhief Justice Gasooigne, for endeavouring to rescue a convicted prisoner, one of h:
personal attendants (Stow^s Chronicle) ; and the room in which he was oonfined v»
known as the Prince of Wales's Chamber down to the time of Oldys. In 1579 rh
prisoners duly dined and supped in a little low parlour adjoining the street. In t!ni
year, through ** the sickness of the house," the prisoners petitioned the Qaeen's Prir^
Council fbr the enlargement of the prison and the erection of a chapel. Daring th
Commonwealth it was called the Upper Bench Prison. Rushworth, author of iht
JSietorical Colleetiont, was confined here for six years; and Baxter, the Nonconibrink:
was imprisoned here eighteen months, under a sentence passed by the in&mos
Judge Jeffi^ys. The original King's Bench was built on the east side of the Hiei-
street, on the site of Layton's-buildings, adjoining the Marshalaea and White llx
prisons. Defoe describes the prison-house "not near so good as the Fleet.** Tk
present prison is situated at the lower end of the Borough-road : Wilkes was one <z
the early prisoners here.
After his return to Parliament for Middlesex, In 1768, Wilkes was arrested on a writ of t^piat
mUeytUum, when he was rescned by the mob as the officers were oonvejing him to the SJng's Bak:b
Prison, to which he afterwards went priyately. He was still under oonftoement upon the Toeetu^ • •
Parliament, when a mob assembled before the prison to convey him in triumph to the House of Cos-
mous. A riot ensued— the military fired, and idlled and wounded several rioters. Judgment ws« tk^
pronounced on WUkes for two libels, and he was heavily fined, and sentenced to imprtsonmcnt fi^r th'
two terms often and twelve months : during which upwards of 20,000{. was raised A»r the paynKm a:
his fines and debts, and presents of sU kinds were heaped upon him— platen Jewels^ wine^ ftuniton; asl
embroidered parses of gold I
The building was |iet on fire, and the prisoners were liberated, by the mob in the
Riots of 1780. (See St. Geobgb'b Fields, p. 376). By the Act 6 Victoria, c. S2, the
Queen's Bench, Fleet, and Marshalsea were consolidated as the Queen's Prison, for
debtors, prisoners committed for libel, assault, courts-martial, &&, under the ootttni
of the Home Secretary of State. The dietary and other expenses^ 1500^ a yenr, wot
paid by the English and Welsh counties.
** On the propriety of soling the especial Boyal Cofort of Jndicatnre— si which the scuariibL
anciently presided in person— the Court of QiMen't Bench, some hesitation may arisen determiBmbl«,
however, by former practice. Does the Saxon derivation of Queen extend fiutner in strict totaains
than a royal consort ; and is not the Queen regnant dUfaeto Ring, as exerdshig the kinglj oiBeeP*->
A. J. K., OtntUmam'9 Magagine, June, 1839
PRISONS, 701
** All that Ifl squalid and miterable might now be sammed up in the one word^-Poet. That word
•noted a creatore dressed like a scare-crow, Cusiliar with compters and sponging-hoosee, and per-
ctly qualified to decide on the oomparatire morits of the Common Side in tne King's Bench Prison,
id of Moont Scoundrel in the Fl»et."~-BdiHbmrgk BmU«, No. 107; Macanlaj on Crokef's BotmtU.
The prison is inclosed by a wall 35 feet high, sormoanted by chevafue-de-frue ; it
>iitsdiis 224 rooms and a diapel. The wall is well adapted for rackets, once mnch
layed here. Defoe said, '* to a man who had money, the Bench was only the name
f a prison ;" bnt the classification of the prisoners abated its licence and riotous living.
In 1820 was pablished a humorous Yolumein verse, entitled Sketches of St, Q^orgt^e
fields. By Qiorgione di Castelchweo, The author portrays the characters and ind-
lents of the King's Bench at the above period in some 170 pag^ ; and in his Preface
lumoronsly describes the Bench as " a certain spring of great repute,^' and compares
emporaiy imprisonment here to drinking the wcdere (? of oblivion). " I was only,"
le says, " reqilired to drink for some time at the very epring of a certain fountain
ji St. G«orge's-fields, over which a pump is placed, and by which a vast casino is built»
:»pable of containing many hundieds of patients, and surrounded by a lofty walL
rhcse waters are in infinitely greater repute than those of Aix, of Fyrmont, or
Barnes; and I have in one morning met with inhabitants of remotely-distant
coantries gathered together before this famous spring." '* It was during the time in
which I partook of the salubrious potations of that spring, which, for I Imow not what
reason, is called Number Sixteen" — ^the number of the staircase in tlie prison.
Remarkable persons confined in the King's Bench. — Robert Recorde, physician,
*' the first useful English writer," his family Welsh, and he himself a Fellow of All
Souls' College, Oxford, in 1531, died in 1658, in the King's Bench, where he was
confined for debt : some have said he was physician to Edward VI. and Mary.
Sir William Reresby, Bart., son and heir of the celebrated author, Le Neve states,
in his MSB. preserved in the Heralds' College, became a tapster in the King's Bench
Prison, and was tried and imprisoned for cheating in 1711. He was addicted to the
fights of game-cocks, and the fine estate of Dennaby is said to have been staked and
lost by Sir William on a single main. — (Burke's Anecdotes of the Aristocracy, 2nd S.)
The original prison was in that part of the Borough where was held Southwark
Fair ; for we read of Joe Miller mourning his departed master, Dogget, at the Angel
Tavern, which then stood next door to the King's Bench; and among the Bnmey play-
bills for the year 1722, is this newspaper cutting : " Miller is not with Pinkethman,
but by himself! At the Angel Tavern, next door to the King's Bench, who acts a new
droU called the Faithful Couple ; or, the Royal Shepherdess."— (7K M. WilU.)
Chatterton was here in 1770: he writes: *'A gentleman, who knows me at the
Chapter as an author, would have introduced me as a companion to the young Duke of
Northumberland, in his intended general tour. But alas I I spoke no language but
my own. King's Bench for the present, May 14, 1770."— (iPiar, p. 267.)
Colonel Hanger, the youngest son of Gabriel, first Lord Coleraine, was by turns a
successful gamester, a prisoner in the King's Bench, a gallant soldier in King George's
army, fighting against the Americans, and a favourite guest at the Prince of Wales's
table, at Carlton House.
The amiable Valentine Morris, when Governor of the Isle of St. Vincent, and the
colony fell into the hands of the French, was refused reimbursement by the British
Government : thus sinned against, he was thrown into the King's Bench Prison by his
creditors, on his return to England; and during the space of seven years, endured all
the harcUhips of extreme poverty. Thus reduced, his wife, who was niece to Lord
Peterborough, and who sold her clothes to purchase bread for her husband, became
insane. Morris was at length released, after long years of sufiering.
George MorUnd, the painter, was long in the Bench and the Rules^ and usually
spent his evenings at a tavern in the latter ; there it was that he astounded an old
gentleman by teUing him he knew what would hang him, and then produced — a rope.
Jethro Tull, *< the father of the drill and horse-hoeing husbandry," died in the
Bench Prison, where he had been thrown by some merciless creditor.
Lord Coclurane was . imprisoned here in 1815, for his Stock Exchange affiiir; he
escaped, and went immediately to the House of Commons, whence the Marshal of the
King's Bench conducted him back to prison.
702 CmtlOSITIES OF LONDON.
Henry Constantine Jennings, of Shiplake, Oxon, descended from the KevQa, KDd wb
reckoned the celebrated Sarah, Duchess of Marlborough, among his pragemtors, a
gnpposed to have died in the Eing^s Bench, about 1818 ; his inyeterate hare of the fiae
arts was, no doubt, the cause of it. In 1815 he was living in Lindaey-row; Cfadsea; ^
and in or about the same time he preferred a daim to an abeyant peerage.
About the year 1820, one Winch, a printer's joiner, wlule confined here Ibr debc,
constructed the working model of a printing machine, whidi resembled a nuuigle.
In 1821, Messrs. Weaver, Artowsmith, and Shackell, proprietors of the J6i» B*Il
newspaper, were heavily fined, and imprisoned here nine months, fbr a libd upon the
memory of Iiady Caroline Wrottealey.
William Hone, while writing his JSvery-da^ Book, was arrested by a creditor, as-i
thrown into the King's Bench. Here he remained for about three years, during whi^
time he finished his Every^datf Booh, in two volumes; and began and finished ^
TahU'hooh and TeoT'-book, two volumes. These three works will probably preecrve tk
name of the compiler after everything elae that he did ahall he lorgotten.
Dr. Mackay, who had lost 40,0002.— which he had amassed in Mexico by a long Eie
cf labour— on the Stock Exchange^ was found by Haydon in the King's Bench ia
1827, planning steam-coaches, and to set off for Mexico as soon as he was free.
A iriend finding a poor author in the Queen's Bench for the third time, and in gcod
KptiitM, said, " Why, yon must like it." So— of Haydon^-to what hnmorons aeconst
he turned his difficulties. In 1834 he notes : '< Directly after the Duke's (WeiBngtoD)
letter came with its endosed cheque, an execution was put in for the taxes. I sad;
the man sit for Cassandra's hand, and put on a Pernan bracelet. When tbe brokfr
came for his money, he burst out a laughing. There was the ^llow, an old soldier,
pointing in the attitude of Cassandra — ^upright and steady, as if on gruard. Jjtaiavss
head was painted just after an arrest : Eudes finished from a man in poaseasian ; the
heautifnl face in Xenophon in the afternoon, after a morning spent in begging merrr
cf lawyers ; and now Cassandra's head was fimshed in agony not to be described, ai^i
her huid completed from a broker's man«" Haydon painted his *' Mods Election " and
^Chairing Members" from a burlesque dection in the prison when he was oonfissd
there; and thence he petitioned Government* and trumpeted his own distresset.
The best account of the King's Bench of our time will be fbund in Haydon's Aai&-
liograiphjfi and its motley life is the staple of three volumes of 8oene9 and Sloriet tf
u Clergyman in Debt, written by F. W. N. Bayley.
In September, 1860, Sir Frands Desanges» who had been Sheriff of London siA
Middlesex in 1818, and also Sheriff of Oxfordshire, expired in the Queen's Prison, of
which he had been an inmate upwards of four years, at the suit of a solicitor ; h€ vas
75 years old, and had long bitterly complained of his impriaonment.
The Rules (privileges for prisoners to live within three miles round the Frisoo, and
to go out on '*day rules") are said to have been first granted in time of plague. Far
these Rules large sums were paid to the Marshal, who, in 1813, vecdved 2823/. from.
the rules and "liberty tickets," and 8722. firom the sale of beer I These matversatioas
were, however, abolished. Kit Smart, the translator of Horace, died within the Rnles; here
Smollett wrote his Sir Launoelot Oreanee. Smollett has minutely described the Kings
Bench Prison in his Boderick Random, as quarters which Hatchway and Tom Pipes
•coveted earnestly. Shadwdl, in his comedy of Epsom Wells, 1676^ says the Kals
extend to the East Indies ; which Lord EUenborough quoted when he was applied to
to extend the Rules.
Tublie AdvertUeTjOd, \1764 : " A gentleman, a priBoner in the Boles of the King^e fiendi, a hnoA
of the familT of the Hrdee, Earls of Clarendon and Rochester, hu a most lemaricable coffin br Ida.
against his interment. It was made out of a fine solid oak which grew on his estate fai Kat, aad
hollowed out with a chiseL The said gentleman often lies down and sleeps in his coffin, with the
greatest composure and serenity." Oct. 6 It was added : the coffin " weighs 600 lbs., and was noC kio;
since filled with punch, when it held 41 gallons 2 quarts li pint."
John Palmer, the actor, was living within the Rules of the King^s Bendi when ha
was committed to the Surrey QwA under the " Rogue and Vagrant Act»" for illegal
performances at the Royal Circus^ in 1789. Palmer's engagement at this theatre (of
which he was acting-manager, at a weekly salary of 202.) led to the abridgment by
PRISONS. 703
Lord Chief Justice Kenyon, of the general privileges which dehtors had possessed in
Surrey, by exdnding public-hoiues and places of amnsemeut from the Sules.
William Combe was confined here when he reoaved Rowlandson's drawings, upon
which Combe wrote Dr, Syntax. He lived a reckless life, by turns in the King's
Bench Prison and the Rules, the limits of which do not appear to have been to him
much punishment. Horace Smith, who knew Combe, refers to the strange adventures
and the freaks of fortune of which he had been a partidpator and a victim : " a ready
writer of all-work for the booksellers, he passed all the latter portion of his time
within the Rules, to which suburban retreat the present writer was occaaonally invited,
and never left without admiring his, various acquirements, and the philosophical
equanimity with which he endured his reverses." We remember him in the Rules, in
St. George's-place, where we learnt that he had written a memoir of his chequered life.
Campbell, in his lAfe of Mrs. Siddont, states that Combe lived nearly 20 years in the
King's Bench, which is not correct.
Theodore Hook, in April, 1824, was removed from a fpnnging house in Shire-lane,
to the Rales (Temple-place), where he worked hard, in addition to the editorship of
the John Bull, in founding his most profitable fame.
The J^m^t Ben^ Chuette, and other pMwrs published from time to time, have portrsjed the
recreant life of the pxieonert. When Abhot Lord Tenterden was the Lord Chief Justice, the Khiir's
Bench was nicknamed ''Abbot's Priory/' and " Tenterden Prioir." A Bolter la one who, havings toe
priTilegeofadajmle,ranBOffand leaves his bondsmen, or the marshal, to pay hia debt: or who
decamps from the Bnles. The Braet Taoer» was oriffinally kept by two brothers named Partridge from
whence it obtained its panning name, they being a brace of par^dges. The delicate address of the
Bench was 66, Belvedere-place ; as that of the Fleet Prison was No. 0, Fleet-market
Latterly, the Prison was governed by Orders appointed by one of the Secretaries of
State; the Rules were abolished, and the prisoners classified, which changes broke up
the licentious life of the place. It is now used as a military prison.
Abont the year 1&13, the case of a Mr. Miller, who had been imprisoned 47 years for a debt which it is
donbtfiil if he ever owed, and who stiU remained in custody in the Queen's Bench, excited great srm-
patby. A aobscription was made to place in a position above penary this poor man, who hod reached
his 77th year, and who, withoat some sach assistance, woald, by the operation of the new Bank-
niptcy A<^ have been thrown penniless on the world.
Lord Chancellor Westbury, in submitting to the House of Lords a Bill for shutting
up this prison, June 28, 1862, gave the following prScis of its history :—
" The prison, of which the present bailding was the representative^ originated in very early times ; It
wasprobablv coeval with the Court of Qaeen's Bench itselt At a venr early period there were three
prindpal pnaons in London— the Qaeen's Bench Prison, the Fleet Piuon, and tlie Marshalsea. The
Qaeen*8 Prison was appropriated to prisoners committed bv the Coart of Qaeen's Bench, the
Coort of Excheqoer, and Coart of Common Pleas. The Fleet prison received prisoners from the
Court of Chanoery; and the Marshalsea from the Lord Steward's Court, ^e Palace Court, and the
Admiralty. The first fruits of the measure passed in 1842 fbr the abolition of arrest for debt on mesne
process was to enable Parliament to reduce the three prisons to one, the Qaeen's Prison bein? substituted
for the Marshalsea and the Fleet. The present Queen's Bench Prison was formed in 1768 ; it had
accommodation for 900 prisoners, and occupied an area of ground between two and three acres in extent
He understood tliat the value of this space of ground was between 200,0002. and 300,0002. Tlie sum
hi^erto voted by Parliament for maintaining this prison was between S0002. and 40002. a year, which
would be saved to the country, with the exception of tlie allowances and continuous paymoits to which
an Act of this kind would necessarily give nse. .... Their lordsUpe would, therefore^ see that the
necessity for continuing the Qaeen's Bench had entirely ceased. The ot^ject of the present Bill was
to transfer the few prisoners therein confined to Whitecron-street Prison, where there was admirable
sooommodaUon for a mudi greater num1)er of persons than in all human probability would ever
he confined there fbr debt Their lordships were probably aware that even the present number
d persons in the Queen's Bench would not have been so lai^ but for the practice which had
been introduced— he could harder tell why— under which any debtor in any prison throughout the
country miffht be removed bv writ of habeat to the Qaeen's B^du Prisoners often availed themselves
of this privilege, because in tne Qaeen's Bencdx they had amusements— such as playing at ball and other
games, by which time was whiled away."
At an early clearance by Mr. HazUtt, one of the Registrars in Bankruptcy, there came before
him the case of Mr. Whittington, who very reluctantly presented himself. In the course of his
examination he stated tiiat he was not in custody for debt, but for costs in an action wliich
he had brought asalnst Mr. BoupeU, M.P., fpr trespass on some lands. He alleged that the costs
were really costs m the cause, and that besides, as the proceedings were still pending, his incarceration
was wholly illegal. He statea that he had no debts, and that hu sssets amounted to over 1,000,0002.
in value ; that they consisted for the most part of lands in England, America, Australia, and the Falk-
land Islands. In the Falkhmd Islands he said he was possessed of 100 square miles of territory, and
he had spent 48,0002. in endeavouring to establish a colony there. He held also mortgages of property
of various kinds to the amount of 20,0002. He waa adjudged a bankrupt with instant discharge, a
course against which he protested.
Sayot Pbibok, the west end of the ancient Palace of the Savoy, on the south add
704 CURIOSITIES OF LONDON.
of the Strand, wbb used as a military priaon for deserters, impressed men, ooiivki
Boldiers, and offenders ftom the Ooards ; at one period their allowance was only focr-
pence a day. The gateway hore the arms of Henry VII.» and the badges of the toss,
fleor-de-liS) and portcollis. The premises were taken down in 181 9» to form tbs
approach to Waterloo Bridge, after which deserters were imprisoned on bosvd a vesil
moored off Somerset House ; bat the Savoy may be said to have been first used as i
prison when John King of France was confined here after the battle of Poictiers^ in 1356.
ToTHiLL-nsiDs' Bbidbwell was first bailt^ in 1618, as a Honse of CorrectioD.
"Orer the gate is ihlf insorlption: 'Here is sereral sorts of work Ibr the poor of this parish of ^
Margaret's, Westminster ; as also correction aocording to law for soch as will o^ and lire idlj m ujs
aty of Westminster. Anno 1656.' "—Hatton,
In the reign of Qneen Anne it was oonverted into a gpud for criminals. ** Howaid
describes it as being remarkably well managed in his day ; and holds up its enlightened
and careful keeper, one George Smith, as a model to other goremors." (Dixon's Lon-
don Prisatu,) Here Colonel Desperd, the traitor, was imprisoned in 1803.
Upon a site adjoining was commenced, in 1830, the erection of a new prison, torn
the design of Robert Abraham : it was first occnpied in Jnne, 183^ when the <M
Bridewell was deserted and taken down, and the stone bearing the above inscriptkoi
was bailt into the present garden- walL The new .prison, seen from Vtctoria-streEt,
resembles a snhstantial fortress: the entrance-porch, on the Vanxhall side, is fon&cl
of massive granite blocks, iron gates, portcnllis, &c It is bnilt on the panoptioan pb^
and contains a gaol for nntried male prisoners, a honse of correction for nude conTkU»
and a prison for women ; 8 wards, 2 schools, and 8 airing-yards ; 42 day-rooms and
848 sleeping-apartments ; besides 120 dark ceUs in the basement, all ranged round a
well-kept gitfden ; while in front is the governor's hoQse,over which is bailt the cfaapel;
these forming the keep-like mass which is seen from Pimlioo and Piccadilly, and is ooe
of the finest specimens of brickwork in the metropolis. The prison will hold upwards
of 800 prisoners : the only laboor is oakum-picking and the treadwheeL
TowEB, Tfb, used as a state-prison fixnn about 1457 to our own time, is described I
with the general history of that palace, prison, arsenal, and fortress.
WssTiciirBTEB Gatehousb, used as a prison for States ecclesiastical, and psiH*-
mentary offenders, as well as for debtors and felons,, is described at page 373.
Whitbobobs-btbbst Prison, in the street of that name, Cripplegate, is entirely a
Debtors' Prison : the first stone was laid by Alderman Matthew Wood, in July, 1SI3.
The prisoners were classified as Sherifib' prisoners. Queen's Bench prisoners, prisonos
committed from the Bankruptcy Coort and the County Coorts. The prison is built to
accommodate 866 prisoners. Those who are able to sustain themsdves are allowed to
do so, and are kept distinct from those who cannot do so : the latter class are called
dietaiy prisoners, and have the following diet : — one and a KUf pound of bread dallj,
cocoa twice a day, three ounces of meat (without bono) daily, half-pound of potatoes four
days a week, and so upon the other two days. The twenty-five dormitories have the
beds separated by corrugated iron partitions. In the yard adjoining the female wards
are two strong rooms or refractory cells, for turbulent prisoners. The doors of the
building are massive, and loaded with iron. The cost for the year ending September
29th, 1862, amounted to no less a sum than 4663/. 13tf. Sd^ and that for the main-
tenance of an average number of about seventy prisoners. Here are no private apart-
ments, but a modern instance of the wise saw, " Misery acquaints a man witb strsoge
bedfellows." Opposite the Debtors' Door, in Whitecross-street, is the City Green-
yard, established in 1771 : here is kept the Lord Mayor's State-Coach.
WoOD-STBSST (Cheapside) Coicpteb was first established in 1555, when the pri-
soners were removed here from Bread-street Compter. The first Wood-street Compter
was burnt down in the Great Fire, but was rebuilt : its hall was hung with the stoir of
the Prodigal Son ; the prisoners were removed from here to Giltspur-street in 179L.
QUJESNSITKE,
UPPER Thames-street, was originally the hithe (wharf or landing-plsoe) of Edred
the Saxon, and thence called Edred's-hithe; but fidling into the hands of King
RAILWAY TEBMim. 705
Stephen, it was given by him to Will, de Ypre, who gave it to the Convent of the
Holy Trinity within Aldgate : however, it came again to the Crown, and it is said to
have been given by King John to his mother, Eleanor, queen of Henry II. ; whence it
was called £ipa Megina, the qneen's bank, or qneen's hithe, it being a portion of her
majesty's dowry. It is described by Stow as " the very chief and principal Watergate
of this city," *' equal with, and of old time fur exceeding, Belinsgate.'* In the reign
of Henry III., ships and boats laden with corn and fish for sale were compelled to pass
hetfond London Bridge, " to the Queen's-hithe only," a drawbridge being palled up to
admit the passage of large vessels. In 1463, the market at Queen-hithe was " hindered
by reason of the slackness of drawing up London Bridge." Stow enumerates the cus-
toms and dues exacted from the ships and boats, and specifies " salt, wheat, rye, or other
com, from beyond the seas; or other grains, garlic, onions, herrings, sprats, eels, whit-
ing, plaice, cod, mackerel, &c. :" but corn was the principal trade, whence the quay
was sometimes called CortihUhe, Stow describes here a corn-mill placed between two
barges or lighters, which " ground com, as water-mills in other places, to the wonder
of many that had not seen the like." The charge of Qneenhithe was subsequently
delivered to the sheri£& ; but Fabyan states, that in his time it was not worth above
twenty marks a year. Its trade in fish must, however, have been considerable when
Old Fish-street northward was the great fish-market of London, before Billingsgate, in
1699, became "a free and open market." Beaumont and Flotdier speak of " a Qneen-
hithe cold ;" and the locality is often mentioned by our old dramatists. It is now
frequented by West-country barges laden with com and flour ; the adjoining ware-
houses, with high-pitched gables, were built long since for stowage of com ; and the
opposite church of St. Michael, with its vane in the form of a ship, the hull of which
will contain a bushel of grain, is emblematic of the oldeu traffic in com at the Hithe.
Tom Hill was originally a diysalter at Queenhithe ; and here he assembled a fine
library, described by Sontibey as one of the most copious collections of English poetry
in existence : it was valued at 6000^., when, through a rainous speculation in indigo^
Hill retired upon the remains of his property to the Adelphi. {See p. 1.) Hill was
the patron of the almost friendless poets, Bloomfield and Eirke White.
At Queenhithe, No. 17, lived Alderman Venables, lord mayor 1826-7; at Nos.
20-21, Alderman Hooper, lord mayor 1847^; and at No. 23, Alderman Bose, lord
mayor 1863-4.
Queenhithe gives name to the ward, wherein were seven churches in Stow's time.
Westward is Broken Whatf^ ** so called of being broken and fallen down into the
Thames." Here was the mansion of the Bigods and Mowbrays, Earls and Dukes of
Norfolk; sold in 1540 to Sir Richard Gresham, fiither of Sir Thomas Gresham.
Within the gate of this house was built, in 1594-5, an engine, by Bevis Bulmer, for
supplying the middle and west of the City with Thames water.
In 1809 or 1810 was found in the bed of the river, opposite Queenhithe, a masdve
silver seal, with a motto denoting it to have been the official seal of the port of London,
temjt. Edward I. It is engraved wi& Laingf s Plan of the Custom House.
RAILWAY TEUMll^
LONDON is ^rdled with Railways, and has an inner and outer circle ; but fbw of the
Termini present gprand or noticeable features. The JBlachwaU line has a terminus
of elegant design, by W. Tlte, F.R.S., at Brunswick Wharf. The Great Northern
Terminus, King's C^ross, occupies 46 acres of land. For the site of the Passenger
Station, the Small-poz Hospital and Fever Hospital were cleared away. The front
towards St. Pancras-road has two main arches, each 71 feet span, separated by a dock-
tower 120 feet high ; the clock has dials nine feet in diameter, and the principal bell
weighs 29 cwt. llie Great Western Terminus, at P&ddington, has few artistic
features; the handsome Hotel adjoining is described at p. 441. The North-Weetem
Terminus, at Euston-sqnare, has a proptflaum, or architectural gateway, pure Qredan
Doric : its length exceeds 800 feet ; its cost was 35,0002. ; and it oontains 80,000 cubic
feet of Bramley Fall stone. The columns are higher than those of any other building
in London, and measure 44 feet 2 inches, and 8 feet 6 inches diameter at the base, or
z z
706 CURIOSITIES OF LONDON,
Qtdj 8 feet 1 inch lefts than that of the York colamn. The height, to the snmsiit of
the acroteriam, u 72 feet ; a winding staircase in one angle leads to an apartmeoc
within the roof, used as the Company'i printing-office ; the rich faronze gates an I7
Snunah.
This prapjlBom is vopreoedented In oar modem Qreek arehitectare^ sad ** cxhUrits itadf to Dsst
adTtntsM when riewed obliqoebr, eo as to show iU line of roof and depth, esneciaUy aa the ooraioe » of
imaraal^ bold and new design, being not only ornamented with prcuecting uon-heads, bat crowaed I?
a series of deep antefixv; wmle, when beheld from a greater distance, the larg« stone alalia are a3»
seen that oorer the nQV—Oompamiom to tte AlmcmaA, 1839.
The payed platforms within the gateway contain nearly 16,000 8aper6cuil iiset of
Yorlahire stone, some of the stones 70 to 80 square feet each ; and each shaft of the
granite Doric colonnade is a mngle stone. The Great Hall, designed by P. O. Hard-
wick, has the ceiling panelled, deeply recessed, and enriched, and is connected wiUi tl»
walls hy large ornamented consoles. The walls are splashed as granite ; and the lame
columns are painted like red granite, with white caps and has». The sculptnre^ by
John Thomas, are a group, Britannia supported hy Science and Industry; and beneath
the ceiling, 8 p«uiels, in alto-reUew, symbolic figures of London, Bimungbam, Ma&-
chester, Chester, Northampton, Carlisle, Lancaster, and Liveipool. The hall ia warmed
by some miles of hot-water pipes, on Perkins's system. Here was placed, April l€t
185^ Baily's colossal marble statue of George Stephenson, the originator of tiie rail-
way system : this statue was purchased by the subscriptions of 8150 woridng'-nien, at
St.; and 178 private fiiends, at 142. each.* The iSo«<A-^a«<0ni station, London Bri(^
is of great extent, and provides for the Greenwich Railway, opened December 1^ 1838^
the first completed Hue from the metropolis. The large Hotel is described at p. 44S.
The South-WeHem, Waterloo-road, is noticed at p. 601. The Charinff Oraa» Iii» from
London Bridge, through Southwark, has a station at Cannon-street, terminus at
Charing Cross, and two stupendous bridges across the Thames. The Hotels an
described at pp. 442-443. The MetropolUiin, beneath the crowded streets of
London, Fowler, enginoer-in-chief, extends from Paddington to Finshury, 4^ miles ;
the difficulties of construction — ^throngh a lahyrinth of sewers, gas and water iwaiiM,
churches to he avoided, and houses left secure-— proved an herculean labour; but
one of the greatest difficulties was to construct an engine of great power and speed,
capahle of consuming its own smoke, and to give off no steam. This Mr. Fovrler sur-
mounted hy inventing an engine wliich, in the open air, works like a common locomo-
tive, hut when in the tunnel, consumes its own smoke, or rather makes no smoke, and
by condensing its own steam, gives off not a particle of vapour. It is proposed, by
extensions at either end of the underground line, and by a new line, to be called the
" Metropolitan District iUdlway," to complete what will form pretty nearly an inner
cirde, and will also throw out branches to connect itself with the suburban ayslemi
north and south of the Thames ; so that when the entire scheme is in working order
we shall have something like a comhination of two circles — the inner and the outer as
a thorough railway system for the metropolis. Of the progress of the works a specimen b
afforded in 2000 men, 200 horses, and 68 engines many months working ; and whde
terraces, streets, and squares in south-west London heing tunnelled under almost without
the knowledge of the inhabitants. The London, Chatham, and Dover extenaon line
has a massive hridge at Blackfriars, and Byzantine terminus at Ludgate. The NorA-
London line has few notioesble works.
The PnewnaUe RaiUoay, Rammell, engineer, is an extension of the Atmospheric
principle : it had already been tested in a De^tch tube, through which parcels wsre
propelled on ledges or railsj, in cars, on the signal bong given, by the exhaustion and
pressure of the air in the tube by a high-pressure engine ; this motive power, in the
Pneumatic Hailway, being applied to passengers in an enlarged tube. The propnlaoB
is likened to the action of a pea-shooter, the train to the pea, which is driven along in
one direction by a blast of ur, and drawn back again in the opponte direction by the
exhaustion of the air in front of it ; the motion being modified by mechanical arrange-
ments. The 9JX is exhausted from near one end of the tube by means of an apparatus
* More than 2000 parcels per day are booked at the North-Western Bailwav Station. In Chrifitmas
week, 6000 barrels of oysters nare been sent off within twenty-four hoars, eadii banel eoutsining 100
<qrstersshBlf a million.— Lsrdner's Saihoaif Eoanomg^ p. 130.
BAITELAQE. 707
from which the air is discharged by centrifugal force. The contrivance may be com-
pared to an ordinary exhausting fan. The rails are east in the bottom of the tubes j a
few strips of valcanked India-rabber screwed ronnd the fore-end of the carriage consti-
tute the piston, leaving three-eighths of an inch dear between the exterior of the
piston and interior of the tube; there is no friction, and the leakage of air does
not interfere with the speed of transit The Whitehall and Waterloo Pneumatic
Bulway will extend from the station in Scotland-yard, carried in brickwork beneath the
tunnel of the Underground District Railway, and then under the Low Level Sewer to
the northern abutment, from which iron tubes of axteen feet diameter are to be laid
on the day beneath the Thames.
We shall not be expected to detail the various lines now in course of construction, or
projected, in and around the metropolis ; to attempt this nught lead us to record the
construction of works never to be executed, and antidpations never to be realized. The
number of metropolitan lines and branches proposed in 1865 was 148, and the extent of
the whole in miles about 370. '* A New Map of Metropolitan Railways" ib, from time
to time, published by Stanford, Charing Cross.
Sir Joseph Paxton proposed a msgDlflcent railway ezteniion. for the better commimioatlon between
diilbrent parts of ^e iMtropolis, so as to avoid all nndergroaxia work. For this purpose he designed
an immense ftodlsMin^ or girdle ndlwaj, to ran in an extended ontatal palace of about 11^ miles ; to be
bnllt of iron, and roofed with glass, 72 feet broad and 180 feet high. On either side were to be erected
houses and shops, with an ordinary roadway between them; at the rear of these there were to be two
lines of railway, equal to eight sets of raQs. The railways were to be oonstracted on the top of a raised
corridor, at the average height of 26 feet, so as to enable the line to pass over, without obstruction, the
present streets and thoroognferes j and the premises under to be used as Bhops or tenements, were to
have double walls, with a current of air pasang between them, which it was ssid would prevent annoy-
ance from the vibration and ndse of the railway. The girdle was to commence at the £oyal Exchange,
to cross Cheapside opposite the Old Jewry ; then to croes the river by a bridge of sufficient dimensions
to have houses bidlt upon it, at Queenhitne} the road then to pass through the Borough, and next a
porti<m of Lambeth to the South- Western Bailway : from which a loop was to be constructed, to pass
over a bridge to be built near Hungerford, to terminate at the Begent«ircus. The main Une to cross
the South-western Bailway, carried direct over a bridge at Westminster, and thence, by Victoria-
street, through Belsravia, foompton, Oore House, Keniington Oardens. Kotting Hill, to the Great
Western stanon at Faddington. The line then to be carried on the north side to the London and North-
Western and the Great Northcarn Sailwars ; and then through Islington to the starting-point at the
Hoyal Exchange. The railways were to he worked on the atmospheric principle. The total cost was
set down at arout 84^000,0001., to be provided by a Government guarantee, at 4 per cent. Among the
receipts, the houses upon the three bndgeS| it was computed, would let each at 0002. a year; and this,
vrith othor revenues, it was estimated, would leave a profit of nearly 400,0002. The drawings of this
great prt^eot were beantifiilly executed; bat the scheme was altogether too gigantic and costly tat
cxecauoiu
SANELAGS,
A PUBLIC garden, opened in 1742, on the site of the gardens of Ranelagh House,
eastward of Chelsea Hospital, was originally projected hy Lacy, the patentee of
Dmry-lane Theatre, as a sort c^ winter Vanxhall. The Rotnnda, 185 feet in diameter,
had a Boric portico^ an arcade, and gallery outside. There was also a Venetian
pavilion in the centre of a lake, upon which the company were rowed in boats; and a
print of 1751 shows the grounds planted with trees and allSea vertt. The several
Imildings were designed hy Capon, the eminent scene-painter. The interior was fitted
with hoxes for refreshments, and in each was a painting ; in the centre was an ingeniooa
lieating apparatus, concealed hy arches, porticoes, and niches, paintings, &c ; and sup-
porting the ceiling, which was decorated with celestial figures, festoons of flowers, and
arahesques, and lighted by oirdes of chandeliers. The Rotunda was opened with a
public breakfast, April 5, 1742. Walpole describes the high fashion of Ranelagh:
"'The prince, prinoen, duke, much nobility, and much mob besides, were there."
** My Lord Chesterfield is so fond of it, that he says he has ordered all his letters to be
directed thither." The admission was one shilling ; but the ridottos, with supper and
inusiG^ were one gpinea. Concerts were also g^ven here ; Dr. Ame composed the music,
Tenducd and Mara sang ; and here were first publicly performed the comporitions of the
Catch Club. Fireworks and a mimic Etna were next introduced ; and lastly, masque-
rades, deieribed in Fielding's Am$lia, and satirized in the Counoiueur, Ka 66, May 1,
1755 ; wherein the Sunday-evening's tea-drinkings at Ranelagh being laid aride, it is
proposed to exhibit the story of the Fall of Man in a masquerade ! Dr. Johnson said
there waa more of Ranelagh than of tiie Pantheon; or rather^ indeed, the whole
s s 2
708 CURIOSITIES OF LONDON.
Botonda appeared at once, and it was better lighted : ** tbe coup eToBil was the finest
thing he had ever seen." — Boswell's lAfe of Johnson, voIb. 11. and iiL
But the promenade of the Rotunda to the music of the orchestra and organ socn
declined: "There's your famous Ranelagh, that you make such a fuss about; wbt
what a dull place is that !" (Miss Bnm^s JSveUna.) In 1802, the Installation Bdi
of the Knights of the Bath was given here; and the Picnic Society gave here a hmk-
&Bt to 2000 persons, when Garnerin ascended in his balloon. Of the Peace Fete whkk
took place here in 1808, and for which allegorical scenes were painted by Capoa»
Bloomfield sings in homely rhyme :
" A thousand feet nistled on mats,
A carpet that once had been green ;
Men bow'd with their oatlandian hatay
With oomera so fearfolly keen.
Fair maida, who at home, in their haste.
Had left all dothing dae but a traiif,
Bwept the floor clean, aa alowlr they paced.
And then — walk'd round and awept it again."
Banelagh was now deserted, snd in 1804 the buildings were taken down. In 1813, the
foundation-walls of the Botnnda, the arches of some cellars, and the ate of the
orchestra, could be traced : part of the ground was next included in " the Old Men's
Gardens" of Chelsea Hospital ; and the name is attached to the Sewen IKstrict^ and
to a long street leading from Pimlico to the site of Banelagh.
Ranelagh House was built about 1691, by Jones, first Earl of Ranela^b and third
Viscount, who was a great favourite of Charles II. The ground was granted to tbe
Earl by William III. ; and the mansion is shown in a view of the Thames-bauik painted
by Canaletti in 1752.
In 1864, a large houae hnflt anon part of the site of Banelagh, with some of its materials, aud anottu*
maneion, Chirenoe Houae, were beared away, to form the new road from Sloane«treet tothe Sospeoika.*
bridge and Battersea Park.
RSCOSDS, RUBLia
*' rpHE Becords of this country have no equal in tlie civilized world, in antiquitj,
-L continuity, variety, extent, or amplitude of facts and details.* From DomedsT
they contain the whole materials for the history of this country, civil, religiona, politieal,
social* moral, or material, from the Norman Conquest to the present day. (Qf the
dedsions of the Law Courts a series is extant from the beginning of the reign of
Bichard I.) With the Public Becords are now muted the State Papers and Government
Archives, and by their aid may be written the real history of the Courts of Conunoa
Law and Equity ; the statistics of the kingdom in revenue, expenditore, popolatioe,
trade, commerce, or agriculture, can from the above sources be accurately investigated.
The Admiralty documents are important to naval history ; and others afford nntoncbed
mines of information relating to the private history of fiunilies." — Sir ^^raneis ^alffrate.
Deputy-keeper of the Records,
They include the official Becords of the Courts of Common Law, of Parliament^ of
Chancery, of the Admiralty, the Audit Office, the Begistrar-General's Office, the Com-
missariat, the Treasury Books, the Customs' Books, the Privy Signet Office, the Wel^
and County Palatinate Courts, &c. These were deposited in more than sixty places,
until the passing of the Public Becords Act, 1 & 2 Victoria, cap. 94^ the great object
of which was the consolidation of all the Becords in one depository ; which has been
attained by the erection of a building on the Bolls Estate, between Fetter-lane and
Chancery -lane. The architect is Mr. Pennethome ; and the plan is to provide suf-
ficient space not merely for all the Becords now in tlie custody of the Master of the
Bolls, but for all such as may be expected to accrue for fifty years to oome. The
building consists of a north front and two wings ; the three portions to oontsin 23S
rooms, 200 of which would receive nearly half a million cubic feet of Becords. The fixHit
faces the north : the style is late Gothic, or Tudoresque, somewhat of Grerman diaracter ;
the outer walls are supported by massive buttresses, between which are the windows^
which are Decorated. The materials are Kentish rag-stone, with dressings of Anstone*
* William Lambard^ the eminent lawyer and antiquary, waa, in 1697. appointed Keeper of the Bolls
and House of Bolli^ in Ghaaoeiy-lane ; and In leoo, Keeper of the Eeooros In tbe Tower.
BEC0BD8, PUBLIC. 709
stone. The floon are formed with wrought-iron girders and flat brick arches, laid on
the top with white Saffolk tiles. The sashes and door-frames are of metal, the doors
of slat^ the roof iron. The hall, entered from the south side of the bailding, has a
imnelled ceiling, formed in zinc and emblazoned. Two windows are provided for each
rooni, which is fifteen feet high, divided by a gallery or iron floor : hence the windows
are onusnally lofty, to light both floors, and to throw the light twenty-five feet down
the passages between the Records ; acosrcUngly the front is a mass of window. As in the
■ame architect's Mnseaxn of Practical Geology, in Piccadilly, there is no entrance in the
principal faQade. Upon the front tower is a statne of Qneen Victoria ; Durham, sculptor.
In the first consignment of documents to the New Repository were, among the papers
of the Solicitor to the Treasury, the Solicitor's proceedings against Bishop Atterbury
and others ; with an important mass of papers respecting the rebellion of 1745>6; and
*' very numerous documents relating to prosecutions brought by the Crown against
authors or publishers of pamphlets or newspapers." The charge and superintendence
of the Public Records is vested in the Master of the Rolls, to whose custody the accn*
mulating Records above twenty years old are delivered. Searches may be made at any
of the departments of the Record Office by payment of the fees, and extracts taken ;
hut the Deputy-keeper is authorized to grant any lUerary inquirer permission to search
and make noteai, extracts, or copies, in pencil, without payment of fees, on the Deputy-
keeper being satisfied that the application is for a hondflde literary purpose. To show
the value of this privilege to literary inquirers, it may be stated that in 1852 one ap-
plicant consulted nearly 7000 documents^ principally at the Rolls Chapel, for compiling
the history of a single township.
To LonI BomUl7, M arter of the Bolls, the nation Is speciaUv Indebted tor the able and efficient
manner in which has been carried out the reoommendstionB of the Becord Commiuiou and the Par-
liamentarr Committees of 1800 and 18S8. In the latter Report the ol^ect flnt specified ii. *' to provide
for the better arrangement and preservation of the Becords of the Kingdom." This is more fully
expressed in the exeeatory dense of every Commission, which et^joins the Commisdoners *'to metho-
dize, regulate, and digest the records, rolls, instroments, books and papers in any of our public offices
and repositories, and to cause such of the said records, rolls, histmments, books and papers, as are
decayed and in danger of being deetrciyed, to be bound and secnred." The next object is, with a view to
providing tat "their more convenient use. to make Calendars and Indexes of any of the said records,
rolls, instmments, books and papers.'* 8ir John Bomllly at once directed that the Calendars of the
diplomatio documents, then preserved in the Record Office in the Tower of London, which had been
some time in hand, should be prepared for publication. He gave directions for printing the Calendars
of dooomente in the Queen's Bemembrance^s Office and Augmentation Office, upon which officers had
also been engaged for fifteen years. This was the true beginning of his task. It was not until the
Incorporation of the State Paper Department with the Public Becord Office, in the year 1864^ that the
Master of the Bolls was enabled to accomplish his design. He applied to the Lords of Her Mjdestr'i
Treasmy for assistance. He propoeed that a certain nnmber of competent persons, unconnected with
the office^ should be emplovea to cooperate with the officers of the establishment in the compilation of
Calendars of the Diplomatio Pq>erL oommendng with the reign of Henry VIII., the period at which
the modem history of Europe may be said to commence; and to leave the portion anterior to that reign
In the Beoord Bepodtoiy to be eueudared bv the officers of the establishment, whenever they could be
spared from the nerformance of the current business of the office.
The proposition was readily approved by the Lords Commissioners of the Treasury, and a nnmber of
E arsons, indnding one lady, were appointed to the work. Every calendar which comes out has its own
tcrest^ its own revelations. Every department of history and biography is enriched from dajr to day
by new fiscoverles. The life of this nation is being re-written for us, not at third hand, from the
guesMS of those who knew little and invented much, but Arom the original vouchers of all true history.
These Calendars give ns not only a new history of England, but the best history of England that haa
ever been mitiea.—<Atk«iunim,) In graoefhl recogniuon of theee eminent services, a marble bust of the
If aster of the Bolls has been placed by subscription in the Beoord Office.
The several Records have heen removed from the Branch Offices to the Repository.
The Chapter House has heen entirely cleared of the remaining portion of its contents.
The Records brought from it have been incorporated in the Repository with the Com-
mon Law and other Records to which they respectively belong. In consequence of the
proposed destruction of the State Paper Office to make room for the erection of
new Qovemment Offices, it was found necessary to remove the Records from the State
Paper Branch Office into the Repository. Here, also, have been removed the Home
Office Papers ; and the Records of the Colonial Office have been united with the other
Colonial Documents already to be found in the Repository, which contained about
4000 volumes of Colonial Papers; together with the Foreign Papers to the end of the
reign of George II. Consequently, the whole of the Home, Foreign and Colonial Papers^
and all other Records, Printed Books, Maps, &c., have been removed to the Repository;
with the exception of the Foreign Correspondenoe commencing with the reign ot
710 CURIOSITIES OF LONDON,
Oemrge III., and Batifications of Treaties, intended to be removed to two hooses io
Whitehall-yard. In the Record Office are some very fine examplee of booklmidnig ;
there are also several cmrionaly wrought cases for roUs and books, and ooflBersiy in «hk^
they have been kept for centuries. Amongst the most remarkable of these is an anckst
iron chest, which is called of Anglo-Norman date. The strength and massiveness c£
this piece of smithwork is remarkable : it seems as solid as a saroophagua. In ti^
•coffer, in the Chapter-house of Westminster Abbey, the famous Domesday Book of
William was for many centuries kept with the greatest care.
In 1860 her Majesty's Government, with the concurrence of the Master of the BoDi
«(Lord Romilly), determined to apply the art of photocinoography to the pcoduction d
a fiicsimile of the whole of the Domesday Survey, under the superintendeDoeof OiloDel
Sir Henry James, B.E., Director of the Ordnance Survey at Southampton, who had
•devoted himself to the improvement of that scientific prooesi^ omnpleted in 186S.
The Beports of the Deputy Keeper are annually made and hud before FariiaBtait
They usually include, in addition to the statement of proceedings in the Pablie Record
Office^ appendices containing inventories and calendars of records made during eadi
year to which they relate^ and refer to documents interesting and useful to the public
generally. They have b^ found espedally valuable in asnstdng persons engaged ia
genealogical, topographical, and antiquarian pursuits^ and are of great practical use to
Government departments having papers deposited in the Public Becord Office.
The IHotorla Tow«r of the Honsea of Psrliamsiit was originaDy intended to be used as a Beeecd
repository; bat the onlj mesne of scoeie to this tower ie by a nsirow winding stsLraase of 170 iron
steps np to the firtt floor ; and to the eighth floor (sixty-foor rooms in all) there are 806 etepa, wfaid!,
added to the 170 from the ground to the first landing, make a total of 486 steps. Then ace an flr^
9ieees.
BSGSNT 8TRBST,
r^ length 1780 yards (80 yards less than a mile), was designed by John Nash, in
1813, and named from his patron the Prince Regent ; although in 1766 Qwynne had
proposed a great street to lead nearly in the same line. It commences at Waierio^
jplaee, opposite the site of Carlton House, and proceeds northward, crosang Piecaitilly,
by a Cii^us, to the County Fire^Office, designed by Abraham, with a rustic arcade, like
that at Somerset House. The roadway is probably tbe finest specimen of macadamiaatiQQ
m the metropolis. On the JSaat side are the Junior Uniied Service CM (tee pu 254) ;
OaUery of Illustration (p. 806) ; the Parthenon Club (p. 254). On the West are ^
PkUip'e Chapel (p. 215) j and Club Chamber* (p. 245).
traits ortne uajne oi weiungton, Lisay isiessmgton, uoont JL^'ursay (tne painter or tne pieciire). te.;
also. Sir Joshua Reynolds' sitters' chair, after his decease in the poefossion of Sir Thomas Lawivnes
and Sir M. A. Shoe.
From the County Fire-Office, the street trends north-west by a Quadrant* so as to
avoid a commonplace elbow : it exhibits Kash's genius in overcoming difl&coities, for
by no other contrivance could this sweep of the street have been made so ornamental;
its geometrical fitness can only be fully appreciated in the view from the balcony of tbe
York Column. The Quadrant had ori^nally two Doric Colonnades, projecting the ex-
tent of the fbot-pavemcnt; the columns of cast-iron, from the Carron Foundry, eatii 16
feet 2 inches high, exclusive of the granite plinth, supported a balostraded roofl This
was a most scenic piece of street architecture ; the continuous rows of columns swept
in charming perspective, and tbe effect was very picturesque. The colonnades were
removed in November, 1848, and a balcony was added to the principal floor. Tbe
property has been much improved by this change; but the tasteful public unwillingly
parted with this grand street ornamentation, which reminded them of a classic dty of
antiquity. The 270 columns were sold at 71, 5e, and 71. lOf. each.
No. 46, the junction of Begent CSrcns with the Qnadraat, has a sapeib shop-flroni^ designed, ia
1838, by F. Hering, in the Bevival style; with ftnted lonio oolnmns, Italianized arche% eniiehed pedi>
meut-heada, spandrels, esooeheons, cognisances, and panels ; the ornaments fcteing of ccmipodtion laid
n-pon wood. Each plate of glass in the windows, 149 inches by 82 inches^ ooet lOoL ; tito plaieiglass la
the ftiQade and interior lOOOA. ; and the entire ezeootioa nearly 4O001,
ROMAN L02n)0K 711
From the Quadrant the vista is very fine : the blocks or gronpe of houses, Ac are
by Nash, Soane, Cockerell, Bepton, Abraham, Dedmns Burton, &c.
JEaU-^Arehhishop TenUon's Chapel, between Nos. 172 and 174^ is described at
p. 215. JPouberf* Place, between Nos. 206 and 208, is named from Monaeor or
Major Faabert, who^ in 1681, established here a riding-academy, on premises formerly
the mansion of the Countess of BristoL Evelyn, in his Diary, mentions that Fauberf ■
project was recommended by the Council of the Royal Society.
" 18th Deo. 1684.— I went with Lord ComwalUs to see the yonng gallants do their exercise. X.
Faabert having nowlr railed in a menage, and fitted it for the aoademy. Here were the Doke of Moir-
folk and Northamberland, Lord Newburgh, and a nephew of (Daraa) Earle of Faversham. The ex«r-
dses were : 1. Banning at the ring; 8. Flinginr a javelin at a Moor'a head: 8. IMachargiug a pistol
at a marks ^d lastly, taking op a gauntlet with the point of a sword; all these perfomrd in ftill
cpeede."
When Swallow-street was removed, the riding-school premiaeai, then livery-stables, were
taken down, except one house. The Argyll Roams, built for musical entertainments^
at the comer of Little Argyll-street, were destroyed by fire in 1830. {8ee p. 22.)
Wewt—lSoB, 207 and 209, the Cotmoramui {see p. 808). Sanover Chapel, built
1823, by Cockerell {see p. 211). The line crosses Oxford-street by Beyeni Circus, and
extends thence to the tower and spire of All Souls' Church (see p. 147). The street
then sweeps past the Langham Hotel {see p. 442), built upon the site of the gardens and
houses of Sir James Langham, and part of the nte of Foley House, which was bought
by Xash, with the grounds, for 70,000^ : hence the crookedness of Regent-street.
No. 809, Regent-street, the Folytechnio ItuHHOian, erected by Thompson m 1888;
and enlarged in 1848, contains a Hall of Manufactures, with machines worked by
steam-power, and several other apartments filled with models, Ac; Cosmoramic Rooms i
and Theatres for lectures and optical exhibitions. The Dtmng-BeU, long the paramount
attraction, is of cast-iron, and weighs 8 tons ; 6 feet in height, and 4 feet 8 inches
in diameter at the mouth. The Bell is about one-third open at the bottom, has a seat
all round for the divers^ and is lit by 12 openings of tluck plate-glass. It is suspended
by a massive chain to a large swing-crane, with a powerful crab; the chahi having
compensation weights, and working into a well beneath. The air is supplied from two
powerfhl air-pumps, of 8-inch cylinder, conveyed by the leather hose to any depth: the
divers being seated in the Bell, it is moved over the water, and directly let down within
two feet of the bottom of the tank, and then drawn up ; the whole occupj^ng only
two minutes and a half. Each person paid a fee for the descent, which produced
1000^. in one year. The cost of the Bell was about 400/.
In the rear of the premises, at Ko. 5, Cavendish-square, then the 8L Qeoryi^s Chess
Club, was played, 27th May, 1851, the Chess Tournament^ by the first general meeting
of players l^m different parts of the world; among whom were, Szen, Horwitz,
Kieseritzky, Ldwenthal, Staunton, and Anderssen. — See the Qamei^ with notes, by H.
Staunton.
nOMAN LONDON.
ALTHOUGH Londinium was in the power of Rome for more than 400 yeani, or
nearly one-fourth of its existence in history, the aspect of Roman London is bat
natter of conjecture; and tessellated pavements, indsed stones, and sepulchral urns,
found upon its site, are but fragmentary evidences that wherever the Roman conquers
he inhMis, London was, however, previously a settlement of some importance, and of
British origin, as we read in Llyn-dun, the hill-fortress on the lake ; or Llong-dinas,
the city of ships, from its maritime character ; whence the Roman designation Ix>n-
dinium. It is not mentioned by Csesar, though he entered the Thames; nor was it
occupied as a Roman station so eariy as Colchester and Verulam. The Romans are
supposed to have possessed themselves of London in the reign of Claudius, about 105
years after CsBsar's invaaon. Londinium is first mentioned by Tadtus {Ann. xix. 88)
ms not then dignified with the name of a colonia, but still as a place much frequented
by merchants, and as a great dep6t of merchandize. It was subsequently made a
colonia under the name of Augusta {Amm. MareeU, xxvii. 8).
Londinium, as we know, was a place of oommerdal activity before the Roman Conqusrt.
712 CUEI08ITIE8 OF LONDON.
It was the principal mart of exchange between Britiun and the Continent, and receiTed
for the com, the cattle, the minerala, the sLiTes, and the dogs of native production,
every article of aoathem Inxnry for which a market was to be found amon^ our nxda
ancestors. The site of London was, no donbt, peculiarly advantageous for oommerce.
It was the only great maritime port on a tidal river known to the Romans; and while
it was supplied by a very fertile tract of country behind it, its position on a gentle
declivity, with dense forests in the rear, and a broad expanse of swamp before it^ rsi-
dered it from the first a place of considerable strength. London probably remained
British, or rather Cosmopolitan; while such places as Colchester, Chester, and Caerleoo,
the stations of legions and seats of government, became merely bastard Italian.
Ptolemy the geographer, who lived in the reigns of Trajan, Hadrian, and Antoninus
Fins, places Londinium in the region of the Cantii, and some recent diacoveries have
proved that the Boman city or its suburbs did actually extend over what is now known
as Southwark. The Itinerary of Antoninus shows that a large proportion of the Britiih
routes are reg^ted and arranged with reference to Londinium, either as a starting-
point or a terminus. This city is made the central or chief station to which the main
military roads converge : a map of Boman Britun baaed on this Itinerazy strikingly
resembles one of modem England ; so dose is the analogy by which we may a86ig;n a
metropolitan importance to Boman London. When in the reign of Diocd^aan and
Haximian it was sacked by the Franks, it is termed by Eumemus the orator, oppidum
Zondiniehte ; and under the dominion of Carausius and Allectus it became a place of
mintage. " P. LoK." {Pecunia LondimensU) appears on coins of Constantine, Heleza,
Fausta, Crispus, Constantino the Younger, and Constantius the Younger ; and in the
NotUia Londinium takes a place among the capitals of the provincea under the title of
Augusta, as the seat of the Treasury of Britain, controlled by a special officer, — iVtr-
ponius ihesaurorum Av^fvHennum in BrUamus, " Vetus oppidwm," says AmmianiK
Marcellinus, who wrote about a.d. 880, " quod Augtutam poHeriieu appellatdt**
The site of Boman London has been densely built on and inhabited, without inter-
ruption, from the first oentuzy of our era to the present time. It has been buried
beneath the foundations of the modem city, or rather beneath the ruins of a dty aeversl
times destroyed and as often rebuilt ; and it is only at rare intervals that the excavators
of drains and other subterranean works strike down upon the venerable remains of the
earliest occupation. The Bomans found the place a narrow strip of firm ground lying
between the great fen (Moorfields) almost parallel to the river. At right angles to
both ran the Walbrook, and on the east the Langbourne ; habitations ranged closely
from Finsbury to Dowgate, whence to the Tower site, villas studded the bank of the
Thames. The finding <$ sepulchral remains outside these natural boundaries proves the
Bomans to have there had thdr burial-grounds, as it was their custom always to inter
their dead without their cities. That Southwark, on the opposite bank of the Thames,
was also a Boman setUement, is proved by relics of the reign of Nero; outaide which
are likewise evidences of Boman interment.
"Boman London thai enlarged itself from the Thames towards Moorfields, and the line of wall eas^
and south. The sepulchral deposits confirm its growth ; others, at more remote distsDces, inaicate
8ul»equent enlargements ; while interments discovered at Uolbom, Finsbury, Whitechapel, and the
«zten8ive burial-places in Spitalfields sod Qoodman's-flelds, denote that thoae localities were fixed on
when Londiniam. in process of time, had spread over the extensiTe space inclosed by tiie walL" —
C. Boadi Smith, F.aU,
After the Great iire, the excavations brought to light much of the antiquarian
wealth of *' the Boman stratum" of tessellated pavements, foundations of buildings, and
sculptural remains ; ooina^ urns, pottery, and utensils, tools, and ornaments. Whenever
excavations are made within the limits of the City of London, the workmen come to
the floors of Boman houses at a depth of from 12 to 18 or 20 feet under the present
leveL (T. Wright, F.S.A.: The CeU, the Boman, and the Saxon, p. 123.) These floors
are often covered with fragments of the broken fresco-paintings of the walla, of which
Mr. Boach Smith has a large variety of patterns, such as foliage, animals, arabesque,
&c ; and pieces of toindow-glcttt have often been found among these remains. — ^T.
Wright, F.S.A., ArchcBologicfU Album,
London was inwalled A.D. 306. {See Citt Wall Aan> Gates, pp. 233-246.)
ROMAN LONDON. 713
The following are the principal localities in which remains of Roman London have
lieen, from time to time, disoorered : —
A^ldgiUe^ 1753. — Stone and brick tower of the Roman wall, discovered by Maitland,
soath of Aldgate; the bricks soand, as newly laid.
JBarhican, — A roroan tpeculOf or watch-tower (the Ccutrum Bxploratum of Stukeley's
Itinerary), stood without London, near the north-west angle of the walls, and was
called in the Saxon times the Burghkenning or Barbican, which gave name to the
present steet leading from Aldersgate-street to Whitecross-street. — (Brayley's Xoii-
diniana, toL i. p. 40.) See, also, Basbican, p. 32.
Bevis MarJce, — ^A fine statue c^ a yonth foond, and rescued from the employh of the
Comniiflsioners of Sewers by Mr. Roach Smith.
Billingsgate, 1774. — In the parish of St. Mary-at-HiU were found human bones,
fragnaents of Roman bricks, and coins of Domitian of the middle brass ; and, in 1824^
urns and pavements were discovered near St. Dunstan's church, north of Billingsgate.
In 1848, portions of an apartment and a hypocaust were laid open in digging the foun-
dation of the new Coal Exchange nearly opposite Billingsgate. Tlie apartment is
paved with conmion red teasers ; the outer wall, 3 feet thick, is built of tile-like bricks
and Kentish rag-stone^ the mortar containing pounded brick, an unfailing evidence of
Roman work. The hypocaust, or. hollow floor for receiving heated air when wood was
burnt in the furnace, and thus to warm the apartment above (probably a bath), agrees
to half on inch in the dimensions with those given by Vitruvins in his instructions for
the hypoeoMstum. The bottom is formed of concrete; and piers support the covering
tiles, ^alao covered with concrete. Pipes were also found, which, opening into the
hypocaust, were inserted in the walls, and conducted the warm air throughout the
building. The whole has been preserved. 1859. — In excavating for a house on the
east side of the Coal Exchange, an additional portion of the Roman building, including
I>art of a hypocaust, was thrown open. It was found at a depth of about 11 feet from the
present surface. The hypocaust is nearly square, with a semicircle added towards the
east : the covering has been broken down, and exposes the piers formed of square tiles
as in other cases : some of these are also broken down. Bones of various descriptions,
Roman tiles and portions of flues, fragments of pottery and glass, portions of tesserso
about an inch square^ and pieces of vessels of medieval date, were discovered. To the
west of the hypocaust, against the Coal Exchange, is an ancient wall, built upon a
foundation of Roman materials : in one part formed of stones of large size : this may
have been a portion of the old wall of the Thames. (See BiLLnrosGATE, p. 54.)
Biahopegate, VJ(fJ, — A tessellated pavement, urns with ashes and burnt bones, a blue
glass Uudurymatory, and remains of the Roman wall, found at the west end of Camomile-
street, Bishopagate, by Dr. Woodward. In rebuilding Bishopsgate Church in 1725,
several nms, pateres, and other remiuns were discovered, with a vault arched with
equilateral Roman bricks, and Dr. Stnkeley saw there, in 1726, a Roman grave, con-
structed with large tiles, which kept the earth from the body. In 1836 a pavement of
red, white, and grey tessersB, in a guilloche pattern, was discovered under a house at
the south-west angle of Crosby-square, Bishopagate; supposed very early Anglo- Roman.
(Arehaologia, vol. xxvii. p. 397.) Maitland describes a similar pavement found on the
north side of Little St. Helen's gateway in 1712; the site of St. Helen's Priory was
probably occupied by an extensive Roman building ; and remains of floors prove Crosby
Hall to be on the site of a magnificent Roman edifice.
BlaeJifriare. — A fragment of the old wall, and parts of the monastic buildings erected
upon it, are still preserved below the offices of the Times newspaper. One part of this
interesting relic is evidently much older than the other, and the most ancient was fouud
to be so hard, as to set at defiance the tools of the workmen. During alterations, seve-
ral encaustic tiles, the finials of the fleur-de-lis shape, a Roman tile, and in the neigh-
hourhood of the printing-office, several melting-pots and pieces of glass, mostly in a
half-manufactured state, were found : they are carefully preserved at the Times office.
{See Blacktriass, p. 56.)
BroatMreei, Old, 1854. — On taking down the Excise Office, at about 15 feet lower
than the foundations of Gresham House (on the site of which the Excise Office was
built), was found a pavement, 28 feet square.
714 CUBI08ITIE8 OF LONDON,
It ii a geometrlcftl pattern of broad bloe lines, forming intenections of octagon and
parimentB. The octagon figores ere bordered witn a cable pattern, shaded with grej, ai^ intafaeed
with a tqnare border, thaded with red and Tellow. In the centres, within a rin^ are expoaded flswee^
•haded in-red, yellow, and grey; the doable row of leaves radiating from a flgore ealled a tnie kvb*
knot, alternately with a flgore something like the tiger>lilT. Between the octagon figorea are eqan
eompartments bearing Taiions devices : m the oenoe of ue pavement is Ariadne^ or a RMrtV'p,
ledining on the back of a pantheri bat only the lbre>paw8^ one of the hind-paws, and tlia tafl reBia.
Over the head of the flgore floats a light drapery, forming an arch. Another sqnaore oontaina a tv?*
handled vase. In the demi-octagona, at the udM of the pattern, are lonettes : one oontelDa a &b gbbl-
meat : another, a bowl erownea with flowers. The loxenge intersections are vaxiooalj aoibeilii^
with leaves^ shells, trodove-knota^ cbeqoers, and an mnament ahaped Uke a dlce-boac Aft the eaaea
of the pattern are troelove-knota. Sorroonding this pattern is a broad cable-like border, broad b«&a
of Uae and white alternately : then a floral scroll ; and beyond this an edge of danl-loaengca, in alce^
Bate bloe and white. An ooter border, oompoaed of plain red tesaera, sanroonda tlM whole. Tbt
groond of the pavement is white, and the other coloora are a aealeof ftiUred, vdlow, and a bioah gt^.
This pavement is of late workmanship. Variooa Soman and mediaval artidea were tamed oip in th»
same excavation : among theae are a silver denarins of Hadrian, aeveral copper ooins of Con^Maw;
and a small cOT>per coin bearing on thereverae the flgores of Bomolos and Bemos aockled by tte tra-
ditionary wm; aeveral Soman and medinval tiles and fragmenta of pottery; a amall giaoa o(a £ae
bloe coloar« and coins and tradeamen's tokens.
Cimnof^-^ireet, 18S2.«-TeflseUAted payement, firagments of fimmign ina% enthes
imis and lamp, uid other Boman venels, found from 12 to 20 feefc deepi, near Basi^
lane, New Cannon-street* upon the sapposed site of Tower Royal. 1850L — Amoi^
the rains of a Roman edifice* at 11 feet deep, was fbqnd in Nlcholaa-lane^ near Gnmco-
street, a large dab, inscribed, "jxtu fbot bbixa" (Numini Gaasaris IPrawwoA
Britanma).
There was every reason to believe the readne was at hand, bat neither the ooDtiachv
nor the dvio aathorities would ooontenance a search. With some litde difficoltj the
stone, apparently the dedicatory inscription of a temple, almost miiqne of its daai in
this oonntry, was leoaved into the Qiiildhall, and deposited at the foot of the stsircaae
leading into the library ; bat it has nnoe disi^peared.
Ch^apnde, 169&— A vanlt and pavement found at the depth of 17 foet» at the
north-west corner of Bread-street ; and near it a tree cat into steps, on the anppoeed
edge of a brook that had ran towards Walbrook. In 1671 Sir Christopher Wren, in
digging for the foundation of the church of St. Mary-le-Bow, at 18 foet de^^ readied
a Roman causeway, of bricks and rabble firmly cemented, which, it is supposed, fanned,
at the time it was constructed, the northera boundary of the oolony ; and upon tiiis was
laid the foundation of the diurch-tower. Wren mistook the ca^^ of t^ anoeot
Norman church fiir. Roman, from a number of Roman bricks being used in the aicheL
(See Godwin's Chmrchee of London, 1689.)
Onttched Friars, 1842. — ^A group of the I>ect Matrea discovered in ezcaTatu^ a
•ewer in Hart-street, Crutched Friara» at a connderable depth, among the ruins of BanaB
buil^ngs ; these scnlptuxed remains are in the Guildhall Library.
Doio^afe.— The discovery of a large building and tessellated pavement here has
suggested that Dowgate was the palace of the Roman prefect^ and the basilka or court
«f justice.
J'tfie5iir$r.— Oppodte the Circus, at 19 foet deep, has been discovered a well-turned
Roman arch, at the entrance of which, on the Finsbury side^ were ironbax^ upputsnUj
to restrain sedge and weeds from choking the water-passage.
FoHer-lane, 1880.-— Tn excavating for the New Goldsmith's Hall, was found, 15 foet
below the level of the street, in a stratum of day, a stone altar of Diana, 23 inches
high, sculptured in front with a figure closely resembling the Diana Yenatrix of the
Louvre. The ndes each contidn the type of a tree ; on the back are the remuns of an
inscriplion, below which are a tripod, a sacrificial vessel, and a hare. The finding of
this altar supports the inference that the ground was the site of the Temple of XHana,
referred by some antiquaries to the spot where St. Paul's now stands. The altar is
preserved in Goldsmith's HalL {See Arch^Boloffia, vol. xxix. p. 146.)
Orejf Friars, 1836. — ^A fluted pillar, supposed Roman, found in the fragment d a
wall of the Grey Friars' Monastery: it is almost the only specimen of the kind
noticed.
Soundsditch, 1846. — ^The torso of a white marble statue of a slinger, discovered 17
foet deep, in Pettdooat-Iane.
BOMAN LONDON. 715
iJrZtfi^^on.— -In the flelcby about midway between White Conduit House and Copep,-
lagen Houie» near Islington, were, until built over, considerable remains of Beedmont
or Bedmont) Field; a camp said to have been occnjned by Suetonius Faulinu^ ajd. 61,
vhoae contest with Boadicea at Battle-bridge has been confirmed by a Roman inscrip-
ion diaoovered in 1842. Highbury, the snunner camp of the Romans^ ia noticed at
>. 420. In 1825, arrow heads and figured pavement were found at Beedmontd—
[Hone's .^Miy-ciay Book, voL ii. p. 1666.)
King-WUUam^iitreet^ Lothhury, and Prinoi^t-tireei, 1834, 1886, 1836.— Varioua
remains found in fbrming the new thoroughfare across the heart of the City, from
Lfondon Bridge to. the line of the old wall at Moorgate. Evidences of Roman habita-
tions^ at the depth of 14 and 20 feet, on either side of the line of King William-street.
N'ear St. Clemenf s Church, pavement^ earthenware lamps, Samian ware, and coins.
Along the fine of Princes-street, brass scales, fibule, styli, needles in brass and bone^
x>in8, a sharpening steel, several knives, and vessels of Samian ware. In Lothbnry, at
LO or 12 feet deep, chisels, crowbars, hammers, &c ; a leathern sandal, red and black
pottery, &c ; a coin of Antoninus Hns, with Britannia on the reverse. From Lothbory
to London Wall, brass cdns of Claudius, Vespanan, and Tngan ; spatnlsB, styli, needles,
a gold ring, brass tweezers, a hair-pin, and pottery. Near the Swan's "Neat in Coleman-
street, a pit of earthen vessels, a coin of Alleotns (296), a boat-hook, and a bucket-
handle. At Hon^-kne, under some Saxon remains^ a few Roman coins. In Bread*
street, richly figured Samian vases, cbcular earthen cooking-pans; and wall demgpia^
fresh in colour, and resembling those of modem paper-hangings. (C. R. Smith, F.SJL
Archceologia, vol. xzvii.) At the comer of St. Swithin's-lane have been found several
skeletons, fragments of pottery ; and coins, in second-brassy of Antonia, Clandius, Nero^
and Vespeman.
LeadenhaU-Hreet, 1676.— A pavement found at the Leadenhall-street end of Lime-
street, at 12 feet deep ; and between Billiter-lane and Lime-street, a stone wall -and
arched gatei, which Stow supposes to have belonged to a Roman house destroyed by fire
in the reign of Stephen. 1803.<— A magnificent pavement discovered in fi^t of the
India House, Leadenhall-street, described at p. 319. 1868.— A pavement found near
the site of the portico of the India House in Leadenhall-street. It forms a square ot
about five feet, set in a floor of common red tessersB. The pattern is ingenious. Under
the pavement were foond broken portions of plaster, with red, black, and grey stripes^
Tery perfect as to colour.
Lombard-Hreet, 1786.'— At about 13 feet deep were found brick ruin% upon three
inches thick of wood ashes, beneath which was Roman pavement, common and tessellated
(Sir John Henniker; Arehaolcffia, voL viii.). Also, near Sherbome-lane, at 12 feet
deep, a pavement running across Lombard-street^ between which and the Post-office, but
along the north nde, ran a wall 10 feet below the street-level, built of ''the suudler-
nzed Roman bricks," and pierced by perpendicular flues, the chimneys of a mansion.
Other fragments of walls and pavements were found; and in Birehin-lane was un-
covered a tessellated pavement of elegant dedgn ; with great quantities of Roman coins^
£ragments of pottery and glass botUes, keys and beads, a large vessel of figured Samian
ware, Ac (^800 Lombakd-btbsxt, p. 631.)
London Stone, Cannon-street, is described at pp. 683^634.
Lothhnty, 1806.— Tessellated pavement : now in the British Museum.
Ludgate4 — ^Upon the ate of the present church of St. Martin, Wren found a small
sepulchral stone monument to Yivianus Mardanus, a soldier of the second legion, erected
by his wife, and sculptured with his effigies and a dedicatory inscription : this monu-
ment is now among the Arundel Marbles at Oxford. 1792.— Barbican or watch-tower
of the City Wall discovered between Ludgate and the Fleet-ditch. 1800. — Sepulchral
monament found in the rear of the London Coflfee •house* Ludgate-hill (sse p. 639.)
This relic has been removed to the Corporation Museum, OuildhidL
Moorfleldt, — ^An inscribed stone, in memory of Grata, the daughter of Dagobitoi^
has been discovered at London Wall. Mr. Roach Smith is of opinion that the London
of the Britons was situated in Moorfields ; and on this abori^nal establishment the
Romans afterwards enlarged. In 1818 a large portion of the wall on both ndes of
Moorgate was demolished.
716 CUBI08ITIE8 OF LONDON.
Pavements ditcovered in Biub-lane, Cannon-street, in 1666 ; near St. Andrew'sCbarcs.
Holborn, in 1681; at Cratched Friars in 1787; behind the Old Navy Pay-Offioek
Broad-street; in NortbumberUuid-alley, Fenchurcb-street; and in Ixmg'laiie, Swsh-
field, — aboat the commencement of the present century; near the churdi ci Sc
BanstanVin-tbe-East, in 1824; in East Cheap in 1831 ; at St. Clement's Chordi, ssd
in Lothbnry, opponte Founders'-coart, in 1834; in (>OBby>Bquare in 1836; h^aad
Winchester House, Bankside, in 1850; and in yarions pbices on both aides of H^
street, Sonthwark, between 1818 and 1831. (G. L. Craik, in Knight's l^mdon, t^L I)
Some stamped iUee bear the earliest abbre^tion of the name of Londinium : they naii
PBR LON and F-B-LON, supposed JPtohatum LondinU proved of the proper qis&j
at London; or Prtiaa (cobors) BRt^onam LONcb'sit, the first (cohort} of the Brxuss
at London. (C. Jl. Smitk, F,8^,) Or, Mr. Wright interprets P. PBL BB. upoQ
another tile, as ProprcBtor BritannitB Londinii, the ProprsBtor of Britain at LiODdimT3&;
showing that Roman London was the seat of the government of the province. See a
list of potter's stamps on pottery found in different metropolitan localities in the Aasy
quarian and Arehiteetural Year-book for 1844.
Soyal Exchange, 1841. — In excavating for the foundations was opened an andesi
gravel-pit, filled with various Roman relics, described at p. 326 ; many of which ait
preserved in the Corporation Museum. Remains of buildings covered the whole site d
the present Exchange, denoting this to have been one of the most magnificent portksB
of Roman London.
Shadwell, 1615. — ^Two coffins (stone and lead), with bones, lachrymatories, and two
ivory sceptres, found in Sun Tavern Fields.
Southwark, — ^Discoveries of tessellated pavements on and about the site of St. Saviour's
Church, and other remains of buildings, pottery, lamps, glass vessels, &c^ throoghoas
the line of High-street, denote this to have been within Roman London ; and a burial-
ground of the period has been discovered on the site of that now attached to the Bia-
senters* Chapel, Deverill-street, New Kent-road.
SpUalflelds, — ^Ums, with ajahes and burnt human bones, coins (Claudius^ Xerp, Ves-
pasian, and Antoninus Pius), lachrymatories, lamps, and Samian war^ found in t2id
Lottesworth or Spitalfield.
Strand,— ** The Old Roman Spring Bath" in Strand-lane, between Kos. 162 and
163, is of accredited antiquity. The bath itself is Roman : the walls bang layers c^
brick and thin layers of stucco ; and the pnvement of similar brick covered with atu^cv
and resting upon a mass of stucco and rubble : the bricks are 9^ inches long, 4^ incba
broad, and If inches thick, and resemble the bricks in the City Wall. The property
can be traced to the Danvers (or lyAnvers) family, of Swithland Hall, Leicestershizt^
whoso mansion stood upon the spot.
St. Oeorg^e'in'ihe-Saei, 1715. — Many sepulchral remains found in digging the
foundations of St. George's Church, near Goodman's Fields ; and in 1787, fragments of
nrns and lachrymatories, and an inscribed Roman stone, were dug up in the Tenter-
ground.
St. Martin* e^lane, 1772. — In digging the foundations of the new church of St. Martizh
in-tbe- Fields, were found, at 14 feet deep, a Roman brick arch ; and " buffido-heads,"
according to Gibbs, the architect. In Sir Hans Sloane's Museum was a glass vase oqb-
talning ashes, which was found in a stone coffin upon the site of St. Martin's portico.
St. Martin' S'lc'Cfrand, 1819. — Roman vaultings, discovered in digging for the foos-
dations of the General Post-office.
St. Fancrae, 1758. — " Csesar's Camp," near St. Pancras Church, discovered by Dr.
Stukeley (eee p. 641).
St. FauTe Churchyard. — In 1675, Wren, in excavating for the foundations of the
present St. PauVs Cathedral, discovered many Saxon and British g^ves; and 18 fe^
or more deep, Roman urns intermixed,
" belonging to the colony, when the Bomsnt and Britons lived and died together. The more remark-
able Bonuui ams, lampe, and lachrymatories, fragments of sacrificing vessela, &c, were found deep in
the ground, abont a claypit (under the north>eaBt angle of the present choir) which had been dnf br
the Koman potters. ' in a stratum of dose and hard pot-earth, that extends beneath the whole nie tf
Bt Paol's ;' here * the urns, broken vewels, snd potterr-ware' were met with in great aboadsooei.''—
Wren's FartiUalia,
ROMAN LONDON. 717
Vren'^nimmaged" the ground, but failed to discover any traces of the Roman Temple
f Diana or Apollo reputed to have been built here. Dr. Wopdward, however, possessed
acriiicing vessels, bearing representations of Diana, said to have been dug up at St. Paul's ;
resides a brass figure of Diana, found between the Deanery and BlackAiars and believed
loman.* As Lon^tinium was the great centre of the commerce of Britain it might be ex-
pected that it would supply spedmens of the pottery of antiquity : accordingly nowhere in
Sngland has such an immense quautity of various kinds been discovered. John Conyers,
he antiquary, in 1677, observed the remiuns of Roman kilns, which were brought to
ight in digging the foundations of St. Paul's. Specimens of the ornamented pottery
nade in the Castor district have been also found here, and nowhere has the red glazed
)ottery' known as '*Samian" ware, been found more plentifully; the potters' stamps
)re8ent upwards of 300 varieties.
Thames Biver, — A silver Harpocrates found in 1825 in the bed pf the Thames, and
low in the British Museum. 1837. — Bronzes found in ballast-heaving in the Thames,
lear London Bridge, including Mercury, Apollo, and Atys; probably the penates of
lomc opulent Roman family. — (C. Roach Smith, F.SA., Archzologia, vol. zxvii.) Brass
3ins of various lengths, stated to have been found on the paper, in a cellar on the
lorthem bank of the Thames in excavating for the South-Eastem Rulway bridge :
ihey have solid globose heads.
ThreadneedU-Hreet, 1840-1841. — Tessellated pavements found beneath the old
French Protestant Church in Threadneedle-street^ at about 12 or 14 feet deep : they
ire preserved in the British Museum. In 1854 was found a large deposit of Roman
iehriSy in excavating the site of the church of St. Bennet Fink ; conasting of Roman
biles, flue-tiles, fragments of black, pale, and red Samian pottery ; glass, &c. Various
fragments of Roman vases found, together with the lid of an Early-English stone coffin
and part of the tracery of a Qotbic window, probably part of the church that stood here
before the Great Fire.
Tower, VJ*J*7. — In digging the foundations of a new office for the Board of Ordnance,
within the Tower, at a great depth, wore discovered remains of andent buildings; a
silver ingot impressed " Ex opfio. HoNOBn," and three gold coins of Honorius and
Arcadius ; a small glass crown, and an inscribed stone; thus indicating that the Romans
bad a fortress upon the Tower site.
Tower Sill, 1852. — Fragments of a Roman building found at the northern portion
of the City Wall, induding the supposed volute of a capital, and other enriched remains ;
besides a Roman sarcophagy nearly entire : now in the British Museum. Also, inscrip-
tion in memory of Alfidius Pompus, set up in compliance with his will by his heir;
another at the same time, in the same place, commemorating some person of greater
distinction.
Upper Thamee-eireel, 1839.— Opposite Vintners' Hall, at 10 feet from the sur&oe,
were &und remiuns of the Wall parallel with the Thames; and about the middle of
Queen-streot, 19 feet from the surface, was unearthed a fine tessellated pavement.
1865. — At the comer of Sufiolk-lane, on part of "the Manor of the Rose," from some
15 or 16 feet deep, a large quantity of Roman fonndation-tilea and firagments of the
embankment-wall for the river. 1866r — Several artides hem. the old Steelyard, in-
duding bone pins, styli, spatulse, and other Roman antiquities in bronze, together with
some iron keys. The brcmze objects were of a brilliant golden hue, derived from the
damp soil in which they had been buried fbr, probably, not less than dghteen centuries.
Lower Thamee-etreet, — Bricks and odns, urns and pavements ; a very fine hypocaust;
and a portion of a Roman building and another hypocaust, remains of wall, &c.
Wdlhrooh, 1774. — Wood-ashes found, 22 feet deep, in making a sewer from Dow-
gate through Walbrook.
Whilechapel, 1776. — Monumental stone to a soldier of the 24th legion, found in a
burial-ground at the lower end of Whitechapd-lane.
* In excavating, in 1868, for Cook's eolotisl wsrehooie (bnflt In 90 dsjs). on the south tide of 84.
Paul's Churohyard, there was flsond at twenty feet deep a Danith flravsetoneu inieribed In Bonio— Kxv4
Qsoied tbif stone to be laid over, or in memory of, Tvxx. The date of this reUe is sboat A.D. lOOOt
and it is said to be the only Boiuo monument known to have been discovered in London.— ProciBflyal
718 CURIOSITIES OF LONDON.
In Mr. Charles Boach Smith'i M aMmn of London AntlqnitiM, deiciibed at pu SM^ are 5S8 Bona
items, oolleeted In the metropolis dnrimr street-improTements, sewerage, and tlie deepning of the M
of the Thames. These otdects indade fiomsn scdv^ore, bronses, pottery, tem-cotta ump^ >«<^gM
pottery, potters' stamps, ffUss ; tiles, psTements, and wall-paintings; persooal omamentB, mnb a
leather, ntenslls and ImpMment^, and ooins. The Museom contains the same Bomber of ABtk>«ixas
and Normsn. and MedisBval remains. (Set the Catalogoe, with illnstzationa by F. W. Faiihatt, Fil,
printed Ibr the Bobecribers only, 1864)
The list of Boman coins fbund in London and enmnerated in the above cstalogv
■moants to np^rards of 2000; yet this list contains those only which, for aboottbe
last 80 years, have passed nnderthe eye of Mr. Boach Smith, c^fly fiom the bed tl
the Thames.
" A mneh larger nomber within that period of time mnst have been fimnd. Biz hnndred, or mv^
pleked np from giaTel dredged from the Thsnes, and strewed along the bank of the Snirey Cansl, va*
oolleeted by the late Mr. B. Pimm, of Deptford. It is weU to record this &et» because the mvd taka
ftxNn the bed of the Thames below London-bridge hss been extensively used for repairing the taaaki e
the river at Bamea and other places, and this gnrel contained Uuve qoantitiea of coins, the fiiw&tf «
which in some fntore day may pnsile and deceive persons ignorant of their historT. A hoard of desaia
of the Higher Empire was found in the City, whicn, the corporation having declined pnrehsaiBg. «•
booght by Mr. Mark Boyd. Vast onsntlties are said to have been foond in removing the jrien « <h
London-bridge and in excavating the approachea to the new bridge. Of these, and of those cxhem^s
In the Caty in former tlmes^ scarcdT a record has been nreserved. The list here presented will not gnv
more than an imperfect notion of the namber actoally bronght to li^ht, bat it will serve to ooonyt
ftint idea of the mcalenlable qnantity which most have been met with, both in modem tiaei sod ■
past ages."— a Baaeh SmUh, FJ3U.
BOTHEEEITKE,
A MANOR and parish between Deptford and Bermondsey, on the Surrey htnk of
the Thames, was andently called ReiherhUhf probably from the Saxon redir^ s
mariner, and hjfth, a haven-— e.6. the sulor's harboor. (Brayley's Surrey,) It a vul-
garly Sedr^. At the time of Domesday, it was indaded in the r^al manor d
Bermondsey ; bat it was not surrendered until the reign of Charles I. A fleet w
fitted out at Rotherhithe in the reign of Edward III., by order of the Black Friott
and John of Qaont. Lambarde states that Heniy IV. lodged in an <* old stone boose
•here whiles he was cored of a leprosie;" and two of Henry's charters are dated here,
^ y^' July, 1412. The mother-church of St. Mary is described at p. 187 : Gataker, the
emdite Latin critic, was rector from 1611 to 1664 ; he was imprisoned in the Fleet by
Laud, and is buried here. In the churchyard lies Prince Le Boo. The registers; cod-
mencing 1556, contain many entries of ages from 90 to 99 years, and one of 120 ycsA
Admiral Sir Charles Wager .possessed the manor between 1740 and 1750. The brave
Admiral Sir John Leake was bom here June, 1656 ; but Admiral Benbow, stated hf
Manning and Bray to have been bom at Rotherhithe, was a native of Cotoa-biOf
ShrewsWy. (See QeiU. Mag, Dec. 1809.) George Lillo, the dramatist, who wrote
the plays of Cttorge Bamwell, Arden of Fevwtihamt and Fatal Cktrioniy, was a jeweDer
l^ing at Rotherluthe in 1735.
B^i^ffs OaptaU GtOUver, he tells ns, was long an inhabitant of Botheriiithe. Thefe is soch>
reality giiea to this person by Swift that one seaman is said to have sworn that he knew 0>pt«)B
Gulttver Vvy well, bat he lived at Wapplng, not at Botherhithe. Lord Scarborough fell in emml
with a master of a ship who told him he was very well acquainted with Gulliver, but that the pnot^
had mistaken ; that he lived in Wq>pinf , not in Rotherhithe. " It u as true as if Mr. Goltivcr o»
spoken it," wss a sort of proverb among nis neighbours at Bedriff. Rogers, the poet, remarked ioV»
churchyard at Banbury several inscriptions to persons named Gullirer, and on his return home, loooBf
into OMlUver^B TrmtU, Mr. Rogers round to his suiprise that the ssid inscriptions are mentioned there
as a oonflrmation of Mr. Gulliver's statement, that *'^his fiunily came i^m Oxfwdahire;" so eomplfl^
is the Joke kept up.
** In five long years I took no second spouse;
What Redriff wife so long hath kept her vowsP**
Qa^9 JBpUat-Marg OmUivar to fkt Ctft*^
A fire^ June 1, 1765, destroyed here 206 houses, and property worth 100,000/. In
1804, a tunnel from Rotherhithe, beneath the Thames, to Limehouse, was oonunenM"
by Yasey and Trevethick, but failed. The *' Thames Tunnel," by Brunei, oaaao^B^
at a short distance east of St. Mary's Church. The Commercial Docks at Botbetbitke
are described at p. 309.
Gerard mentions the Waier QladioU as growing "by the fkmons river Thamesis, not far frovj.
peeoe of ground called the Divel's neokerchitfe neere Redriflb by London." The Devil's NecfctrcD»^
BOTAL 800IETY. 719
iras a ztgiaff P^^e of iwampjr ground, which beoame perverted to Nteldngtr, u the valgar ohrase Ifadb-
<M«r is appUed to a pocket-handkerchief. The ground ie now ** the Neckuiffer-road,'^ with Neoklnger
Sdtills. fte. : it in in the pariah of Bermonds^, not for from the boandaiy of Botherhithe. It has been
callcn "the devil'i neck in danger/' from the dangerone coarse of the road between two ditches, as
■bown in Sayei's Map of London, 1768, in wlilch the name is spelled ** Neekineher." In PhiUipsTs J3«r-
tnondlMgr, 1941, it is stated that the Neckinger Ditch is an ancient water-coarse^ and was formerly navl*
gable to Bennonds^ Abbqr.— 6ee NcUa and Quriet, 2nd a. Noi. 71 and 73.
BOTAL ACADEMY OF ABTS.-^See Pictube Gallebiss, p. 676.
BOTAL BXCSANGE.'^See Exohangbb, pp. 322^29.
BOTAL INSTITUTION, TSB,
'M'0. 21, AlbeDoarle-street, Piccadilly, was founded in 1799» " for dijOTaamg the know-
XI ledge, and facilitating the general introdaction, of nsefol mechanical inyentions and
improvements ; and for teaching, by oonrses of philosophical lectures and experiments^
tbe application of sdeuoe to the common purposes of life :" henoe the motto of the
Institution, lUuatraiu commoda vitm. It was incorporated in 1800. The Institution
bns heen worthily designated as " the workshop of the Royal Sodety ;" for within its
laboratory Sir Humpl^ Davy made those brilliant discoveries which were published
through the medium of the Tra/mactUma of the Royal Society ; and the example of
I>avy has been followed by Faraday. Sir Joseph Banks, Count Rumfbrd, and Mr.
Caven^Ush were among the founders of the Royal Institution. In the basement was an
experimental kitchen, with Rumford stoves, roasters, and boilers; apparatus for heating
"water by steam, &c. ; a workshop for coppersmiths and braziers. Above are a labora-
tory, lecture-theatre, museum, library (see p. 464), and model repository. Here
Davy gave his first lecture, April 25, 1801 ; and in 1807 discovered by galvanism the
composition of the fixed alkalis^ and th^ metallic bases, potassium and sodium : his
Ipreat voltaic battery consisted of 2000 double plates of copper and zinc, of 4 inchea
square, the whole surface being 128^000 square inches. Davy was succeeded by Brande i
and Faraday was, in 1833, chosen for a second chair of Chemistry, the Fullerian,
founded by John Fuller, Esq., whose bequests have amounted to 10,0002. The mine-
ralogical collection in the museum was commenced by Davy.
Thehistocy of chemical sdenoe dates one of its principal Q>ocbs from the foundation of the Iabora>
~r half a
alkali^
if maiqr
sases, the science of magneto-electricity, tbe twofold magnetism of matter, and the magnetism of jnaeaL
Here Coleridge gave his celebrated Lectures on Poetey. Among the MSB. in the Library are fifty-six
volumes of Letters, Ac, respecting the American War ; Papers of Lord Stanhope ; and the Laboratory
Note-Books of Sir Humphry Davy.
The Institution building, originaUy five houses, reodved its present architectural
ftont, by L. Vulliamy, in 1839.
Tbe institution owes much to the talent of Faraday, who, in the words of the Hondrwr Secre-
tary, ** has worked long and much for the love of the Institution, and little for its money. For forty
?eara, from 1818 to 1868, his fixed income firom the Institution was not more than 2001. per annum. In
853, Professor I^dall was elected to lecture on Natural Philosophy for 2001. per aUnum. In 1859, he
received 8002. per annum." Mr. Brande succeeded Sir Humphry Davy as Professor of diemistry, and
was from 1820 associated with Mr. Varaday ; he died in 1886, at the age of 81.
BOTAL SOCIJETT.
THIS is the oldest Society of its kind in Europe, except the Lyncean Academy at
Bome, of wluch Ghdileo was a member. The Royal Society originated^in London,
about 1645, in the weekly meetings of '* cUvers worthy persons inquisitive into natural
philosophy, and other parts of human learning ; and particularly the new plnlosophy, or
experimental philosophy ;'' these meetings being fint suggested by Theodore Haok, a
German of the F&latinate, then resident in the metropolis. Tins is supposed to be the
dub which Mr. Boyle, in 1646, designated " the Invisible or Philosophical Society .**
Th^ met at Dr. Goddard's lodgings in Wood-street ; at the BtUTs Mead Tavern, Cheap-
720 CURIOSITIES OF LONDON.
nde; and at Gresham College. Aboat 1648-9, some of the members, indnding D-.
(aft^wards Biihop) - Wilkins, removed to Oxford, and were joined by Seth Snii:^^
Ralph Bathorst, Sir William Petty, and the Hon. Robert Boyle, who met at Pettj's
lodgings in an apothecary's hoose, " becaoae of the convenienoe of inspecting drn^*
The members in London continoed also to meet, until, in 1658, thej were ejected froa
Qresham College, which was required for barracks. Evelyn, Cowlej, and Sir Wi^li^^
Petty proposed separate plans for a " philosophical college :" Sprat aays tJiat Covlrr's
proposition accelerated the foundation of the Royal Society, in praise of which be sab-
sequently wrote an ode. At the Restoration, in 1660, the meetings were revived ; kA.
April 22, 1662, the Sodety was incorporated by royal charter, by Charles IL Th'»
charter is on four sheets of vellum, and has on the first sheet ornamental initials sxd
flowers, and a finely executed portrait of Charles in Indian ink; appended is iht
Great Seal in green wax. The Charter empowers the Preudent to wear Mis hat wbOe
in the chur, and the fellows addressed the Prerident bareheaded till be made a sign far
them to put on their hats ; customs now obsolete. Next year the Kinsf granted a
second charter, which is of greater importance than the first ; and his Migesty presented
the Society with the silver-gilt mace.
The Mtce if tboot 4 feet in length, snd welffhi 190 oi. svoirdap<ris: Ite item Is (biased with fta
thistle, and bee an om-tfaaped head, sormonnted bT a crowu, ball, and croaiw Upon the head an
embosaed flgnreeof aroee, harp^ thistle, and fleuiHle-Ua, and the initiab C.B. four times rcpetXtd,
Under the crown are chased the royal arms; and at the other extremity of the stem are two sluel^
one bearing the SoeletVi arms, the other a Latin Inscription denoting the
maoe to hare been
to the Society b? Charles II. in 1663. It was long believed by namberleaa visitors to be tbe ** boabis'
mace tamed out of the House of Commons by Cromwell when he dissolved the Long ParHament; bet
Mr. Weld, the assistant-secretary and librarian, in a communication to the Sodei^, April 30, ISfBk
proved this to be a popular error, by showing the warrant lor making this maoe and ddivenng it t»
Lord Brouncker, the nrst President of the Society. Again, the "banble" was altogether difltBrcat ia
form firom the Sodety's maoe, and was nearly destitute of omament, and without the eiown and cross,
as described in Whitelock's UtmortaU, and represented accordingly in West* a picture of tb» Djisoln-
lioa of the Long Parliament.
From this sesrion, 1668, date the PhUotophieal TVamadums, wherein the proceed-
ings and discoveries of the Society are registered. This year the Sodety exercised their
privilege of claiming the bodies of criminals executed at Tyburn, which were to be
dissected in Qresham College In 1664^ the king signed himself in the charter-boc4:
as the founder ; and his brother, the Duke of York, signed as a fellow. In 1667
Chelsea College was granted to the Society, for their meetings, laboratory* repomtorv,
and library; but the building was too dilajndated, "the annoyance of Ainoe Rnparf s
glass-house" adjoined it, and the property was purchased back for the king's use for
IdOO^. The Society then resumed their meetings in Qresham College^ until they were
dispersed by the Qreat Plague and Fire, alter which they met in Arundel Hoose in the
Strand. The Fellows now (1667) numbered 200, and their subscription It. per week;
from the payment of which Newton, who jdned the Society in 1674^ was excused, oa
account of his narrow flnanciw.
In 1674 the Society returned to Qresham College. They were fleroely attached : a
Warwick phyncian accused them of attempting to undermine the Univerdties^ to bring
in popery and absurd novelties ; but a severer satire was The JElephami m tks Moom,
by Butler. Among their early practices was the fellows gathering May-dew, and ex-
p^menting with the divining-rod ; and the Hon. Robert Boyle believed in the efficacy
of the touch of Qreatrakes the Stroker for the eviL In 1686 Newton presented his
J^rineipia to the Society, whose derk, Hall^, the astronomer, printed the work* The
MS., entirely in Newton's hand, is preserved in the library.
In 1708 Sir Isaac Newton was elected president. In 1710 the society pnrdiased the
house of Dr. Brown, at the top of Crane-court, Fleet-street, " being in the middle of
the town and out of noise." This house was built by Wren, after the Great Fiie
of 1666, upftn tbe site of the mansion of Dr. Nicholas Barbon. This new purchase was
considered unfortunate for the sodety. The bouse required several hundred pounds
repairs ; the rooms were small and inconvenient compared with those of Qresham Col-
lege ; and tbe removal led to the separation of the Sodety from the College Professofi^
after being associated fbr nearly fifty years. The bouse in Crane-court fixmted a
garden, where was a fishpond. There is a small hall on the ground floor, and a passa^
from the stidrcase into the garden, fronting which are the meeting-xoom, 25^ feet by
s*
SAVOY (THE). 721
16 feet, and a smaller room. In the former apartment, the Society met from 1710 till
1782. It is intact, and is very interesting as the room in which Newton sat in the
presidential chair, which is preserved. The Library and Mnsenm were removed here :
the latter numbered several thousand specimens, the list of which fills twenty pages of
Hatton's London, 1708. The house formerly included the present No. 8, in wUch was
kept the Society's library, in cedar- wood cases. In 1782 the Society removed to
Somerset House, and sold the Crane-court house to the Scottish Hospital.
The Royal Society then transferred most of their older curiosities to the British
Museum. For their meeting-room they had a noble apartment in the east wing of
Somerset House ; it has an enriched ceiling by Sir William Chambers, and here were
given the conversaeioni of the Presidents, Sir Joseph Banks, Dr. Wollaston, Sir
Humphry Davy, Mr. Davies Gilbert, the Earl of Rosse, and Lord Wrotteslcy. The
Duke of Sussex received the Fellows at Kensington Palace; and the Marquis of
Northampton at his mansion on the Terrace, Piccadilly. In 1857 the Society removed
to Burlington House, which had recently been purchased by the Government, their
meeting-room at Somerset House being then given to the Society of Antiquaries, who
had hitherto occupied the adjoining rooms.
In " Burlington's fair palace" a large apartment in the western wing of the mim-
Bion is fitted up as the Royal Society's meeting-room. In the elegant suitQ of rooms,
with ceilings painted by Rioci, is the library ; and in these apartments the President
holds his anniud converteuioni, at which novelties in science and art are shown.
The meeting-room at Burlington House is hung round with tho Society's pictures,
of which Mr. Wold has prepared an interesting ccttalogue raisonnSe, privately printed :
they include three portraits of Newton, by Jervas, Marchand, and Vanderbank ; Vis-
count Bronncker (first president), by Lely ; Sir Humphry Davy, by Lawrence ; Davies
Gilbert and the Marquis of Northampton, by Phillips ; Sir John IVingle, by Reynolds ;
Sir Hans Sloane, Lord Somers, Sir J. Williamson, and Sir Christopher Wren, by
Kneller; Dr. Wollaston, by Jackson; the Duke of Sussex, by Phillips, &c. The
Society also possess marble busts of Charles II. and George III., by NoUekons ; Sir
Joseph Banks, by Chantrey ; John Dollond, by Garland ; Davies Gilbert, by Westma-
cott ; Sir Isaac Newton, by Roubiliac ; Laplace ; Mrs. Somerville, by Chantrey ; James
Watt, after Chantrey ; and Cuvier, in bronze. The Museum is described at page 600.
Here also are the Exchequer sttmdard yard set off upon the Society's yard : it is of
brass, and is of great value dnoe the destruction of the parliamentary standard ; the
Society's standard barometer ; also the water-barometer, made by Professor Danicll,
whose last official service was the refilling of this instrument, in 1844.
Tlie Royal Society distribute four gold medals annually — the Rumford, two Royal
[value 50 guineas each), and the Copley ; and from the donation-fund men of science
ire assisted in special researches.
The Ckarter-book is bound In crimson velvet, with void clasps and oorneri, and inscription-plstee—
I. The Shield of the Societr; 2. Crest; an eagrle or, holding a itiield with the arms of £n;jrhuid. The
leaves are fine vellnm, and heir, saperbly blasoned, the arms of England and the Society ; next, the
bird charter and statntes (00 nages). Antographs (lit page) : ornamented scroll-border and Boyal
thield, above the aignatores, "<;Hi.aLss B., Founder" (written Jan. 9th. 1664-6) ; " Jucxs, FcUow ;"
md ** Obobos Buybbt, Fellow." In the next page are the aatographa or various fordgn ambassadors ;
md the third and suoceedinapages contain the si^atares of the fiulows beneath the obligation which
lolds each leaf: Clarendon, Bofis, Wallis, Wren, llooke, Ereljn, Pepys, Norfolk, Flamsteed, and New«
:on, are here (the name beneath that of Newton is nearly obliterated by the sad habit of touching).
^venty-one pages are
Here are the aatograpt
countries who have visited England. <)neen Victoria has signed her name as patron of the Sodetv ;
)D the same richly illominated page are the signatures of Prince Albert and the kings of Froaala and
Saxony.— Weld's Midorg^the Bogal Soei^fy, vol. i. p. 177 (abridged).
See, aUo, CsAiTB-coiTBT, p. 296; Rotal Socutt Clitb, p. 256.
lame Deneatn toot or Mewton is nearly oDiiteratea oy ine saa naoii or coucnmgi.
are occupied by the autographs of the fellows (includmg those on the foreUrn list).
raphe of the snoceasive kinn and queens of England, and many sovereigns orforeign
visited England. Queen victoria has signed her name as patron of the Society z and
SAVOTiTKE).
ON the spot, south side of the Strand, and which still bears the name of Savoy, but
is now mostly occupied by Wellington-street and Lancaster-place, was anciently a'
loble palace, magnificently rebuilt by Henry, first Duke of Lancaster. Here was oon-
ined John King of France, taken prisoner by Edward the Black Prince, at Poictlen^
3 A
722 CXmiOSITIES OF LONDON^.
in 1856 ; " and thyder came to m hym the kyng and the queue often tjioei, and made
hym gret feeat and cbeere :" he waa rdeaaed in 1360; hot returning to eaipti^ty, ^
in the Savoy, *' hia antient prison/' in 1364. The demcsDes descended to John d
Oannt : here the poet Chancer was bis frequent gneat ; aome of his poems were writta
in the Savoy ; and Chauoer'a Dream allegoriaea hia own marriage with Ftufipja, a
lady of the docheaa* honaehold. But Oannt, a stannch Wickliffite, had hia palace attacked
by the Londoners in 1877. In 1881 it was hnmt by Wat Tyler's rebels : the cohIt
plate and ftimitnre were destroyed or thrown into the Thamea, and the great hall ud
several honses were blown np. Shakapeare lays a scene of his Bichard II. in a room
of the Savoy, wbicb, however, was then in mlna. Tbna it lay until 1505, when «?
oommenoed building the Hoepital of St. John the Baptiat, the history of which, asd its
celebrated Chapel Royal, ia narrated at pp. 142-144. Here Charles 11. estabUshtd
<* the French Church in ^he Savoy;"* and here were churches for the Dutch, H-^
Gennana» and Lutherans; the German- Lutheran church has been rebuilt. (Satot
Pbibov, m0 p. 703.)
SCHOOLS, FUBLTC.
THE great Schools of London are as follow : Chabtebhouss, described at pp. 86-^i
CHBifiT*B Hospital (Blue-coat School), deacribed at pp. 95-101- The Cm
OT LoKDOK School occupies the site of Honey-lane Market, in the rear of tlie
houses facing Bow Church, and was designed by J. B. Bunning ; the first stone hid
by Lord Brougham, Oct. 21, 1835. The atyle is Elizabethan, with earlier and more
enriched principal windowa and entrance ; the latter, a rich arched doorway, sur-
mounted by a lofty gable pediment, and above, an open galleiy of five treibiled pointed
archea on lofty pillars, flanked by bnttresa-turrcta 76j| feet lugh, ia novel and
picturesque. The coat of the edifice, about 12,000/., waa defrayed by the CorporatiaD
of London, who gave the aite, which produced a yearly rental of 300/. The schodj
for 400 scholars, is partly supported with 900/. a-year derived from certun lands and
tenementa bequeathed by John Carpenter, Town-Clerk and " Secretary" of London in
the reign of Henry VI. ; and who several times represented the City in Parliament,
and was "executor of the will of Richard Whityngton." Carpenter'a beqnert,
originally but 19/. 10«. per annum, was ** for the finding and bringing up oftoar
poor men's children with meat, drink, apparel, learning at the schools, in the univo^
sities, &C., until they be preferred, and then others in their places for ever." (^^'^
The bequest was thus appropriated in 1633, when the boys wore " coata o£ hoodoa
russet," with buttons ; and they were accustomed from time to time to shov thar
copy-books to the ChamberUun, in proof of the apphcation of the Charity. In ^^"'^
waa extended to the education of four boys, sons of freemen, and nominated by tbe
Lord Mayor, at the Tonbridge Qrammar School ; each boy, on quitting, recdved IOCh.*
thus increasing the annual expense to about 420/. In the lapse of nearly wOt
centuries, the value of Carpenter's estates had augmented from 19/. lOv. to 900/} ^
nearly five-and-forty fold, when the school was rc-eatablished as above. The form of
admisaion must be signed by a member of the Corporation of London; the general
oouTse of instruction includes the English, French, German, Latin, and G^
languages. The school is mainly indebted to Mr. Alderman Hale (Lord Mayor l864-d}»
for its re-establishment and great extension.
* The fin t five churches in London anpropriated to the Protestants of Fnmce were the old^Temp«»
in Threadneedle-street, and those of the woy, Marylebone, and Castle-street ; and a church m sp>^
fields, added upon the application of the eonslstory to James II. To these were Bacce>siv«i7 ~^
twenty-six others, mostly fbanded durin? the reigns of William III., Qaeen iknne^ and George !• ^ ^
of Leicester-fields, foauded in 1688, of which Saurin was minister; that of Sprinff-gardeni, ^V^jnT
pastor was Francis FUOiaat; that of Glasshoose-square, formed in 1688; SwalTow-street, '^'^Ttjl
1602; Berwick^treet, 1689: Charenton.in Newport-roarke^ 1701; West-street, Seren Di«b»^^Jr
refugees called the Pyramid, or the Tremblade; the CarrC, Westminster, 1689; the TaberDic|«' }^',
Hnngerford. 1689, which sulMisted until 1832; the Temple of Soho, or the Patent, erected m J^;
Byder's-cour^ 1700; Martin's-lane, aty, 1686; St James's, 1701; the ArtiUeiT, Bishoptfst^ i^
Hoxton, 1748; St. John, Shoreditch, 1687; the Patent, in Spitalfidds, or the New Patent, i6W>>^
Sto-strcet, 1693; Peart-street, 1607; Bell-lane, Spitalflelds, 1718; Swanfields, 1731; Whed^j^f
pitalflelds, 1708; Petticoat-lane, Spitalflelds, 1694; Wapping. IHl; BUuikiHars, 1716. Sev^<!
tlicee churches ultimately adcqp«ed the Anglican ritual— Weiss' Sitt. Frenek Frvt^tiant B^M^
SCHOOLS, PUBLIC. 723
There are eight free foondiition scholarships available as exhibitions to the UnlTersities, in addition
to the following: the IHmet* schoiarsbip (m« Chbist'b Ho8nT*,L,p. 99), three Beaufoy scholarships, the
Salomons schoianhlp, and the Travers' scholarship, and the Tegg scholarship ("SheriiTs Fine"), varyinr
from 352. to 602. a year each ; and there are other Talnable prizes detenninoble by examination k
Midsummer.
Upon the great staircase of the school is a statue, by Nixon, of John Carpenter,
in the oostnme of his period; he bears in his left hand his Liber Albiu, a ooUection of
the City kws, cnstoms, and privileges, compiled in 1419, and still preserved in the
Corporation archives ; transkted 1861. The statne is placed upon a pedestal inscribed
with a compendious history of the founder, and his many benevolent acts.*
Hebcebs' School^ College-hill, Dowgate, was founded and endowed hy the
Mercers' Company, for seventy scholars of any age or place. It is mentioned as early
as 1447, and was then kept at the Hospital of St. Thomas of Aeon ; but was removed
to St. Maiy Colechurch, next the Mercers' ChapeL After the Great Fire of 1666,
the school-house was rebuilt ' on the west ude of the Old Jewry. In 1787 it was
removed to 13, Budge-row ; in 1804, to 20, Red Lion-court^ Watling-street ; and from
thence, in 1808, to premises on Collego-hilL The present school, designed by Greorge
Smith, is an elegant stone structure (adjoining St. Michael's Church), on the site of
Whittington's Almshouses, removed to Highgate to make room for it. The education,
classical and general, is free; the boys being selected in turn by the Master and three
Wardens of the Mercers' Company. Among the early scholars were Dr. Colet> Sir
Thomas Oresham, and Bishop Wren.
Mebchavt Taylobs' School, Suffolk-lane, Cannon-street, was founded in 1561 by
the Merchant Taylors' Company, principally by the gift of 5002., and other sub-
scriptions by members of the Court of Assistants, among whom was Sir Thomas White,
sometime Master of the Company, and who had recently founded St. John's College
Oxford. With these funds was purchased part of " the Manor of the Rose," a palace
originally built by Sir John Poultney, Knt., five times Lord Mayor of London, in the
reign of Edward III.; the estate successively belonged to the De la Pole or Suffolk
family (whence Suffolk-lane), and the Staffords, Dukes of Buckingham :
"The Doke being at the Rose, within the parish
Saint Lawrence Poaltaej,''—8haktpear9f Senrjf VHI, act L ac. 8.
Hence, also, " DuckVFoot-lane" (the Duke's foot-lane, or private way from the
garden to the Thames), which is hard by. These andent premises were destroyed in
the Qreat Fire of 1666, and the present building was erected on the same site, im
1675, by Wren : it is a lai^ge brick edifice, with pilasters; the upper school-room, and
library adjoining, supported by stone piUars, forming a cloister; there are also other
rooms, and the head master's residence. The boys are admitted at any age, on the
nomination of the forty members of the Court of the Company in rotation ; and the
scholars may remain until the Monday after St. John the Baptist's Day preceding
their nineteenth birth. Hebrew, Greek, and Latin have been taught since the
foundation of the school ; mathematics, writing, and arithmetic were added in 1829,
and French and modem history in 1846. The boys are entitled to thirty-seven out of
the fifty fellowshipe at St. John's College, Oxford, and several other exhibitions at both
the Universities; the election to which takes place annually on St. Barnabas' Day,
June 11, when the school prizes are also distributed: there is another speech-day,
"Doctors' Day," in December. Plays were formerly performed by the Merchant
Taylors' boys* who, in 1664^ acted Beaumont and Fletcher's Lont^t Pilgrimctge in the
Company's Hall, but under order that this " should bee noe precident for the future.'*
Amongst the eminent scholars edooated at Merchant Taylors' were, Bishops Andrewes, Dove, and
Tomson, three of the translators of the Bible : Archbishop J axon, who attended Gliarles I. to the scaJP
fold; Bishop Hopkins (of Londonderry); Arcnbishope Sir William Dawes, Gilbert, and Boulter; Bishop
Van Milden, and eleven other prelates; Titos Oates, who contrived the "Popish Plot;*' James
* At the ezpenae of John Carpenter was "artifidallj and riohlj painted" the Dance of Dmih upon
the north cloister of St. Paul's, and thence called the ** Dance at Paol's." It consisted of a long traia
of all orders of mankind; each finiro having for a partner the spectral Death leading the sepalchral
dance, and shaking the last sands from his hour-glass: intended as a moral memorial or the Plague and
Famine of 1488. Among Carpenter's property is a lease ofnremises in Comhill, granted by the City, for
eighty years, at the annnal serrice of a r$d ro$t for the mt thirty years, and a yearly rent of 20e. Sat
the remsindff of the term.
ftA2
724 ... ^..CUBIOSITIEa OF LONVON.
Whltelock, Jastice of the King's BeDeb; Bolitrode Wbitdock. who wrote his JfemorialM; SdrK
the dramatic poet, contemporary with Maseingeri Charles WheatlCT, the ritaalist; Keal, the hi>li^^
of tlie Puritans ; Edmund Calamy. and his grandson £dmnnd, the Moncouformists — ^the fiMrmer died t
1W6, from seeing London in ashes after the Great Fire ; the great Lord Clire; ]>r. Vleeeimns Kjmbc, w
of the '* British Essayists;" Dr. William Lowth, the learned dsssic and theologian ; Nicholas A!she%
associated with Dolingbroke and Polteney in the CV^/Zmmm; Charles Math«ws, the elder, eomt:sit,
Lioat.-Col. Denham, the aplorer of central Aftica; and J. L. Adolphns. the barrister, who wrm '-
Sigtorwqftke Reign of Omto* JII. Also, Sir John Dodson, Queen's Advocate; Sir Henry EDia, isi
Bamnel Birch, of the British Moseam ; John Gough Nichols, F.SJL.; Albert Smith, UMraUmr.
St. Olats's and St. John's Fssb Qrammab-School (originally St. Olare's) wss
founded by the inhabitants in 1561 ; and endowed, among other property, with ^
" Uorseydowne" field, at the yearly rent of a red rate, which b paid by the Chcrd-
wardens and OverBeen previoosly to the annual commemoration sermon on Nor. 17,
by presenting to each of the School Qovernors a nosegay of fiowcrs with a rose m i.
The School originated in the bequest of a wealthy brewer named Leeke;, who in 1551
left 8^ a-ycar for a free school in St. Savyor's, wMcb bequest, however, was to go ti?
St. Olave's, if within two years of his death a school should be built and established
there. St. Olave's contrived to secure the legacy; and in 1567 the 8choi>l was miie
free, and incorporated by Queen Elizabeth j charter extended by Charles 11^ 1674.
In 1579, Horseydowne (now Horselydown;, was passed over by the parish to the use
of the School. It was originally a large grazing field, doum, or pasture, for horses asd
cattle, containing about sixteen acres ; but having long since been covered with hoizsea
erected on building leases, which have fallen in, the yearly income of the School ni3S
this source is upwards of 20002. The old school, in Churchyard-alley, was taken do«%
about 1830, for making the approaches to the new London Bridge, when a plere sf
ground in Duke-street was granted by the City of London as a site for a new schoi^ ;
but this ground was exchanged with the London and Greenwich Railway Company tr
a site in Bermondsey-street, where the school was rebuilt, and oi>ened Nov. 17, 1S3^
It was in the latest Tudor or Elizabethan style, of red brick, with an octangdar
embattled tower, lantern-roofed ; James Field, architect. In 1849, this new buTlJing
being required for the enlargement of the terminus of the London, Brig^hton, a^
South-Coast Railway Company, they paid a connderable sum of money for it, tU
Qovernors undertaking to find another site for the school, and rebuild the same ; the
tuition being in the meantime carried on in a temporary building in Maze Pond.
The School is fVee to "ehlldien and younglings,*' rich or poor, inhabitants of St. (^t«*s stod St
John's parishes, admitted by presentation from the OoTemors. The Classical School oonsists of abos
220 boys ; and the branch or £nglish School, in Maffdalen-street, and boilt in 1824^ contains abo«a 2iSC>
boys. The Governors also award annuaUr four exhibitions at Oxford or Cambridge UniTtarsity. betida
apprentice-fees for poor scholars, and Innds for other benevolent pnipoees. CommemoratiQo-dsjt
Nov. 17 (accession of Elisabeth).
" The seal of the corporation, dated 1678, and disttngoished by a rose displayed, the anoent cos*
nizance ofSouthwarli, represents the msster sitting in a high-baclied chair at his desk, oo whidb a i
book, and the rod is conspicuously dliplayed, to the tenor of five scholars standin^beforb him.** — G. S,
ConuTf P, S, A,
St. Paul's School, east end of St. Ftiul's Churchyard, was founded in 1312, by Dr.
John Colet, son of Sir Henry Colet, mercer, and lord mayor in 1486 and 14d5 ; and it
is " hard to say whether he left better lands for the maintenance of his school, or wis?
laws for the government thereof (^«22er). The school is for 153 boys of "ererj
nation, country, and class;" the 153 alluding to the number of fishes taken by St.
Peter (John xzi. 2). The education is entirely classical ; the presentations to the
school are in the gift of the Master of the Mercers' Ck>mpany; and scholars are
ndmitted at fifteen, but eligible at any age. The original school-house was boilt
1508-12 : this was destroyed in the Great Fire of 1666, but was rebuilt by Wren ; this
second school was taken down in 1824^ and the present school built of stone from the
designs of Qeorge Smith : it has a handsome central portico upon a rusticated lax,
projecting over the street pavement. The original endowment, and for several years
the only endowment of the school, was 55^ 14f . 10^., the value of estates in Backings
hamshire, which now produce 1858^. IBs, lOid. a-year; and with other property make
the present income of the school npwards of 6000^. Lilly, the eminent grammarian,
the friend of Erasmus and Sir Thomas More, was the first schoolmaster of St. IHiaf s,
uud '* Lilly's Grammar" is used to this day in the school : the English rudiments were
written by Colet, the pr^ce to the first edition by Cardinal Wolsey ; the Latin syntax
aOHOOLS, PUBLIC. 725
chiefly by EnumuB, and the remainder by Lilly. Colet directed that the children should
not me tallow but wax candles in the school ; 4d. entrance-money for each was to be g^ven
to the poor scholar who swept the school; and the masters were to have livery-gowns
" delivered in clothe." The present teachers consist of a high-master, salary 618^ per
annam, with spacious boose ; sor-master, 307^. ; under-master, or ancient chaplain,
227/. ; assistant-master, 257/. : the last master only having no house. The scholars*
only expense is for books and wax tapers. There are several very valuable exhibitions,
decided at the Apporation, held in the first three days of the fourth week after Easter,
when a commemorative oration is delivered by the senior boy, and prizes are presented
from the governors. In the time of the founder, the *' Apposition dinner" was " an
assembly and a Htell dinner, ordayned by the surveyor, not exceedynge the pryceof four
nobles."
In the list of eminent PaalinesaTe— Sir Anthony Denny and Sir William Paget^ privj councillors
to Henry YIIL; John Leland, the antiqosryj John Hilton, oar areat epio poet; Samuel Pepye, the
diarist ; John Strype^ die ecolefiastioal histoiun; Dr. Calamy, the High Chnrchman; the great Duke
of Mariborongh: E. W. ElUston, the oomedian: Sir C. Mansfield Clarke, Bart; Lord Chancellor
Truro, Ac
On Apposition Day, June 4, 1851, were announced these three additional prizes : 1. " The Chancellor'B
Prize," by Lord Truro, lOOOf. ; the interest to he applied in awarding a gold medal, value ten guineas,
and a parse of twenty guineas, or books to that amount, eaeh yearhr Apposition, to the author of the
hesit English Essay. 2. " The Milton Prize," br Sir C. M. Clarke, Bart, for English Verses on a sacred
subject, annually. 3. "The Thurston Memorial," an annual prize for a copy of Latin Lyrics, given by
the parent of a student named Thurston, recently deceased; the H^h Master to apply a portion of the
endowment to keeping up the youth's gravestone in the Highgate Cemetery.
St. Satioitb'b Gbahhab-School, Snmner-street, Southwark-Bridge-road, was re-
built 1830-9, nearly adjoining St. Peter's Church. The school was founded by
parishioners in 1562, and chartered by Queen Elizabeth ; the original endowment being
401. a-year. The scheme, approved by the Court of Chancery in 1850, provides six
governors to manage the school property ; the instruction to comprise religion, classical
learning, English composition, g^rammar, arithmetic, history, geog^phy, mathematics^
&c, subject to the approval of the Bishop of Winchester ; the head master to be a Master
of Arts, and to be appointed in conformity with the statutes of 1614. Small prizes are
adjudged yearly, and there are two University exhibitions. Among the olden rules for
the choice of a master are the following :
The master to he " a man of a wise, sociable, loving dispoettion, not haity or forioua, or of any HI
example ; he shall be wise and of good experience, to diM^em the nature of every several child; to work
upon the disposition for the greatest advantage, SoiefiL and comfort of the child ; to learn with the
loTe of his book." It was necessary then, as now, to add, ** if such an one may be got."— The corpora-
tioQ seal represents a pedagogue seated in a chair, with a group of thickly-trussea pupils before him ;
date, 1573.
The original school-house, on the south side of St. Saviour's churchyard, was burned in
1676, but was immediately rebuilt : it had a richly -carved doorway-head. This build*
ing ¥ras taken down after the erection of the new school in Sumner-street. Among the
donations is 600^. by Dr. W. Heberden, the celebrated physician, who is said to have
been partly educated in the schooL
WssTicrssTEB School (St. Peter's College), Dean's-yard, was originally founded
by Henry VIII., on the remodelling of the Abbey establishment ; but inadequately
supported until 1560, when Elizabeth restored its revenues, and the foundation of an
Upper and Lower Master, and 40 scholars, and gave the present statutes. The
College oonnsts of a Dean, 12 Prebendaries, 12 Almsmen, and the above 40
" Queen's Scholars," with a Master and Usher ; maintained, shioe the Restoration, b/
the common revenues of St. Peter's Collegiate Church (the Abbey), at 12,0002. a year.
These scholars wear a cap and gown ; and there are four " Bishop's boys," educated
free, who wear a purple gown, and have COL annually amongst tiiem. Besides thil
foundation^ a great number of sons of the nobility and gentry are educated here. Of
the Queen's Sdiolars, an examination takes place on the first Tuesday after Rogation
Sunday, when four are elected to Trinity College, Canibridge, and four to Christ
Church, Oxford ; scholarships about COL a year. The scholars from the 4th, 5th, and
Shell Forms " stand out" in Latin, Greek, and grammatical questionings, to fill up the
vacancies on the Wednesday before Ascension Day; when the " Captain of the Election"
is chaired ronnd Dean's-yard. There are other fVinds available to needy scholars
726 0UBI08ITIE8 OF LONDON.
Abt boy nftT enter «t Weetmlnster School: the entire nurail charges (inoladmg houd aidfe^
anflhMi76to0SBiiiiieM;orirheboeiduMilodgealhoine,25etiiiieei. From the boM*na«c_«rA
the Qoeen's Scholara, who, efter torn jeen' reeidenoe^ faeve the chaneeaf obtaining good Kbois^
they ere charged aboat 40L a jear.
The entrance to the ichool-coart. Little DeanVyard, is cmder a low groined p2-
way : the achool-porch ia said to have heen designed by Inigo Jones ; and adjoinis^ii
the paved racket-ooort. The venerable School was once the donnitorj of theisccb.
it is 96 feet long and 34 feet in breadth, and has a massive open chestnut roof; itc»
end is the Head Master's table, and fonr tiers of forms are ranged along the esst aai
western walls.* The Upper and Lower Schools are divided by a bar, whidi foraetiy
bore a curtain : over this bar on Shrove Tuesday, at 11 of'clock, the College eoi
attended by a verger, having made his obdsance to the Masters, proceeds to tJ»L
pancake into the upper school, once a warning to proceed to dinner in the HiJ.
Upon the walls are inscribed many great names ; in the library is preserved psrt of ila
form on whidi Dryden once sat, and on which his antograph is cat.
In the Ceunu AUmnmvwk, or liat otfnuidaiMm scholars, are Bishops Overall and Bari; tns^
of the Bible J Haklojt, collector of Yoyages ; Qonter, inventor of the Scale; " MaeUr George Herbert
the poets Cowley and Dxyden; Soath; Locke; Blahope AUerbary. Spn^ and P«aroc;Pr^s«
Stepney, poets and statesmen; Bowe and "Sweet Vinny Boomc," the poete; C3iordiUl, tiie ssLne.,
Warren Hastings ; Colman the Elder; Everard Home, snrsreon ; Dr. Dnuy, or Harrow Sdiool, ic .
Among the other eminent persoas edooated here were Lord Borghler ; Ben Jodboo ; Hit Ls. sc
Christopner Wren ; Jasper Marne, the poet; Barton Booth, the actor. BiaekmorGy BnmxMt, D7«f. dia-
mond, Aaron Hill, Cowper, and Southey, the poets ; Home Tooke; Gibbon, the historian; Cmobfrn^
the dramatist; Cohnan the Yoonffer; Mr Francis Burdett; Harcoort, Archbxahop of ToA; tk±?:
Marqois of Lansdowne ; Lord John Busaell ; the Marquis of Anglesey ; Sir John Omb Hobhosse il«:
Brooghton), Ac
Among the eminent Masters are Camden, ** the Paosanias of England,** who had Ben Joomk '* '
scholar: sad Dr. Busby, who had Dryden, and who, out of the bendi of BIsliops. tngtit f^&^
Between the years 1810 and 1866 only seven officers of the British army (royalty excepted) rose to tbt nsi
of Field Marshal. Of these seven, five were brought up at Westminster, one at Eton, and one at a f^
schooL The five Westminster boys were— Thomas Grosvenor, Hentr Paget, Jcmn Brnf. Stap^^
Cotton, and Fitzroy Somerset; the Etonian was Arthur Weilesley ; and the seventh, Hesut Ha.<^
The College Hall, orig^ally the Abbot's refectory, was boilt by Abbot JMj^
Ump. Bdward III. : its dimensions are 47 feet by 27^ feet in width ; the floor is H
with chequered Turkish marble; at the south end is a musicians' gallery, now n^ ^
a pantry, and behind are butteries and batches; upon the north side, ap(ma(i33>^
the high' table ; those below, of chestnut-wood, are said to have been formed ont cf'^
wreck of the Armada; and the roof-timbers spring from carved corbels, wiUi^os^
bearing shields of the Confessor's and Abbot's arms. A small louvre rises abon i^
central hearth, upon which, in winter, a charcoal fire used to bum until 1850. ^
liibrary is a modem Italian room, and contains memorials of the attachment of " ^^'-'^
minsters." The old dormitory, built in 1380, was the granary of the moDSsterr; v^
was replaced by the present dormitory in 1722, from the designs of the Bsrl ^ ^
lington: it is 161 feet long by 25 feet broad, and its walls are inscribed inth vnssi^
Here Latin plays are represented upon the second Thursday in December, 9S^ ^
Monday before and after that day ; those acted of late years were the Astdria, P^'
mio, Sunuohus, and Adel^hi, of Terence, with Latin prologue and epilogae.t ^*^.
mentions, " this liberal exercise is yet preserved, and in the spirit of true cU^
purity, at the College of Westminster." The scenery was designed by Gsrrick ; ^
modem dresses formerly used were exchanged for Greek costume in 1839. B(fltii^<>*
a favourite recreation of the Westminsters, who have often contested the cbainpi^''-r
of the Thames with Eton. On May 4, 1837, the \^Gstmiuster8 won a match at IVv*
There exists to this day, at Chiswick, the house which was purchased as a retiriDfi>I^ ^J^
Master and scholars of Westminster: it was for many years well known as "The OobkH i^*^.
having been long oocupied by Mr. Whittingham, and previously by his uncle, who there ^^;
many works of remarkable typographical b«kuty. The present tenant is bound, as were Utsas. »>-'
* The basement story beneath the school serves as an undercroft, has semicireulir^rQii^i^^
arches, considered to be of'the time of Edward the Confessor, whose steward, Hogoiiii, wu ^
here. Here is deposited the standard money, which, when there is a new Master of the ^'f^i^
out to be carried to the Exchequer) for a Tnal of the Pix. The outer doors have seren locks, a»-^
a different key, and each key a different possessor; so that the seven holders assemble 09ti»v<7^
occasion. The last trial of the Pix was in 1851, on the admission of Sir John F. W. Uatditd, Iw^ ^
the Mastership of the Mint, which office was held by Sir Isaac Newton from 16B9 until 1728.
t These performances superseded the old Mysteries and Moralities in the reign of Q««» ^'
^hen the boy •actors were chiefly the acolytes who served at mass.
SEWAGE OB BBAINAQE. 727
Bingham, to raente it at a di^'s notice in the event of its beinff reqaired for the ** Sick acholan of
VVcMtminster/' A large field at the back of the hooae, known ai *^The Home Field," la held upon the
uune condition.
(See The Oreai Schools of England, by Howard Staunton, 1866.)
SEWAGE OR DRAIFAQE.
A SEWER is, aooording to Lord Coke, a place where water iflsnes ; or as b said
vulgarly, "suer," whence the word suera or sewer. Callis derives it from the
Saxon sa-waer, that is— a sea fence, a protection against sea-tides ; bat this derivation
is ill-founded. The subject is too large for treatment here ; but we may note that
tbe Institution of CHvil Engineers recognise the Commissioners of Sewers as first in«
stituted in the reign of Henry YI., when they acted in every part of the country,
liaving jurisdiction on the borders of tidal rivers. Their duties were to repair sea or
river banks, and to keep the main drains and ontfidls of level districts in repair, and
keep them dear for the passage of water.
The first general measure was the "Bill of Sewers," in 1581; superseded, in
1848, by the " Metropolitan Commission of Sewers," whose jurisdiction extended 12
miles round St. Paul's, and for whom a new block plan of the metropolis was prepared
by the Ordnance Office. By this map, the sewerage amounted to upwards of 7 millions
of cubic feet on the north side of the Thames, and nearly 2^ millions on the south side*
The great receptacle was the Thames ; and of the new system, from 1848 to 1854%
there were constructed 80 miles of brick sewers, and 346 miles of pipe-drainage. The
oldest and largest sewer is the Fleet Sewer, which drains^ or drained, by collateral
sewers, an area six or seven times the size of the City of London. (See p. 848.)
The new Main Drainage, by Mr. Bazalgette, engineer, has been executed by tbe
Metropolitan Board of Works. As much as possible of the sewagfe is removed by
jznravitation ; and for this purpose there are three lines of sewers at each side of the
Thames, termed respectively High, Middle, and Low Level. The two former dis-
cbarge by gravitation; but pumping is required for the third; and for this purpose
double-acting rotative beam engines, with plunger and ram-pumps, have been adopted.
The ini0re0ptUig plan, ai Its name impUeSp oonsists in catting three great main drains on both sides
of the river, and which, instead of running dae north and aoath like the former Bjstem. nm-from west
to east. These great midn lines intercept and cnt off all the existing lines of drains from the rirer,
carry thefar contents awar down below Barking Creek and Erith Marshes, where they are poured Into
gigantie reservolrB, and afterwards, when deodorized, tomed into the river at high tide, and swept away
by the ebb almost to sea. Thos, the sewage is not only tamed oat free from smell, bat tamed oat into
a body of water nearly Uiirty tiroes as great as that into which It ased to be poared, and becomes lost
In the volume of water which rolls down between the marshes on each side of the river to hr below
Oravesend. The maxf mam qaantity of sewage to be lifted by the ensines at Crossness Pohit will ordi-
xuirily be aboot 10,000 caluc feet per minatc: bat daring the night tnat qoantitv wiU be considerably
reduced, whiles on the other hand, it will be nearlv dooble on occasions of heavy ndnAdl. Ilieae
works were poblicly opened bv the Prince of Wales April 4 1867. The Miffh Ltotl, on the
north side, is aboat eight miles in length, and mus Irom Hampstead to Bow, being at its rise
4 ft. 6 in. in diameter, and thence increasing in drmmterence as the waters oi the sewers It inters
cepts require a wider coarse, to 5 feet, 6 feet, 7 IbeL 10 feet 6 inches. 11 feet 6 inches; and at Its termi-
nation, nearj^ea Biver. to IS ft. 6 in. in diameter. Its minimnm fell is 2 feet in the nme ; its maximom
at the beginning, nearly 60 feet in the mile. It is laid at the depth of from 20 feet to 20 feet below ths
ground, and drains an area of fourteen sqaare miles. The MiddU Lm^l, as being lower In the valley
on the slope o^ which Loudon is bailt, U laid at a greater depth, varying from 90 feet to 36 feet, and
even more, leiow the surfece. This extends from Kensal Oreon to Bow. The Low LmI will extend
ftxan Cremorae to Abbey Mills, on the marshes near Stratford, and one portion of it will pass through
the Thames Embankment. At Bow, the Low Level waters of the sewer will be raised by engines at a
pumping station to the janction of the High and Middle Licvel ducts, tbence descending by their own
gravity through these tonnels to the matai reservoir and final outfall at Barking. On the south side of
the Thames the three great sewer arteries are constracted on similar plans— the High Level from Dal-
wich to Deptford; the Middle flrom Clapham to Deptford; and the Low Level from Putney to Deptford.
At this point is a pumping station, Miiich raises the water fh)m the low to the high level, whence it
flows away through a 10 feet tunnel to Crossness Point. One part of this tunnel, passing under
Woolwich, is a mfle and a half in length, without a break, and driven at a depth of M feet from ths
aurfare. At the oatlkll another pumping station lifts the water to the refcrvoir. The southem reservoir
Is only five acres in extent ; that on the north b fourteen. In the reservoir takes pboe the deodorisation.
The two culverte which carry the sewage to the east and west pumping stations are as large almost as
railway tunnels. Before the entrance to the pumpe are massive iron strainers, which keep out all
the coarie refuse brousbt down the sewer, and which is afterwards dredged up by the filth hoist into
the filth chamber, which Is flushed into the river at low water.
There are now about 1300 miles of sewers in London, and 82 miles of main inter*
ocpting sewers. Three hundred and eighteen millions of bricks and 880,000 cabie
728 CURIOSITIES OF LONDON.
yards of concrete have been consamed, and three and a half million cabk jvd> d
earth have been excavated in the execation of thefle main drainage workt. Tbe i/jI
pomping power employed is 2380 nomiiuil horse-power ; and if at fall work u:'^;
and day 44,000 tons of coal per annum woald be oonsomed. The sevige, w^:
of the Thames, at present (1867) amounts to 10,000,000 cubic feet a day, and ug
the south side to 4,000,000 cubic feet per day; but provision ia made for an i£U-
pated increase up to 11 J millions on the north side, and 5f millions on the sooth s^.
in addition to 28^ million cubic feet of rainfall per diem on the north side, aod IT;
million cubic feet per diem on the south side, or a total of 63 million cabic feet \<t
diem, which is equal to a lake of 482 acres, 3 feet deep, orJtftee» times as hry ^
the Serpentine in Hyde Pkrk. The cost of these stupendous works had, in 1S67, oil/
amounted to little more than 4^000,000/.
SRSMIFF8.
THAT London had its Sheriffii, or ** Bailifis," as they were originslly styled (or
Shire Reve, scygerefa, from the Saxon fwifan, *' to levy, to seize") prior to taa
Norman Conquest, is attested by William the Conqueror's second charter bes^
addressed to William the Bishop and Sweyn the Sheriff. Hie union of the sheriffirVk
of London and Middlesex took place in the reign of Heniy I., of whom the dtuess
purchased the power of electing the sheriff of Middlesex, " to farm for 300/. :"* ^
mayor and citizens now hold the office in fee, and appoint two sherifis for Lo&do^
which by charters is both a city and a county, though they make bat one sheriff jointr
for the county of Middlesex. The third charter of King John and the firrt cbarttf at
Henry TIL minutely describe the sheriff's office and duties. Any citizen vt eligibk,
unless he swear himself not worth 15,000/. ; and no alderman can be chosen lord m»yx
unless he has served as sheriff. A list of citizens is nominated on Midsommer-di;.
when two are elected by the Livery in Common Hall. Much of the pomp and drcoiB-
stanoe of past times incident to the ceremony are still maintained, and there is a giwi
deal about it that is sentimental and picturesque. The floor of the platform, as of olii,
is still strewn over with cut flowers and gieen herbs, mimt and thyme prevaiU^gt ^^
each high City functionary, from the chief magistrate downwards, carries a bouquet ci
flowers ; the persons chosen are obliged to serve, under a penalty of 400/. and 20 marks;
and the fines pud within the present century have exceeded 70,000/. In 1731 tba«
were fined 35 persons, and 11 excused. The fine is 413Z. 6f. 8J., with an additiooal
200/. if the lesser fine is not paid within a certwn time. In 1806 the fines amoontdi
to 10,306/. 13«. 4(i., and to 9466/. 13#. 4d. in the year 1815. But the electioo is
sometimes contested, as in 1830, when there were six candidates. The sheriff»^ec^
were formerly presented for approbation to the Cunitor Baron of Exchequer, as the
representative of the Sovereign : that bdng found most inconvenient, a short Act ci
Parliament was passed to do away with the ceremony of presentation, but resoriiif
all the other ancient ceremonies, appointing the Barons, or their chief officer, the
Queen's Remembrancer, to see the ceremony performed, on the morrow of St tficliael
as described at pp. 508-509. The numerous trusts of the sheriffii are moaUy performed
by the under-sherifls, but the State-daties by the sheri£b themselves. They receive
fi-om the City about 1000/. during their year of office; but the State and hospitality
they are expected to maintain usually cost each sheriff upwards of 2000 guineas *. for
State-chariot, horses, and State-liveries ; the inauguration dinner. The mayor's ban-
quet, at Quildhall, on the 9th of each November, throws on the lord mayor and oorpcn
ration but one-ihird of its cost; the remaining two-tlurds devolve on the unliappy
sheriffs, although but eight of their private friends can be invited to the feast Tlie o»t
of this is generally 800/. to each of the sheriffs, being 200/. for each of thdr ^ests*.
the Old Bailey dinners {tee p. 506) ; besides meat at the City prisons, which the sheriff
* This fce-rorai rent has long since been given away by the Crown, Is now priTste property, and i*
paid half-yearly by the aheriflF. In the charters granted to the City of London by Henry 11^ BidiardU
and in the flrst charter of King John, no mention whatever U made of the Bharillwiek. There vo
many Cityprdinances for the office of sheriff, disobedience to which ia in some cases marked bj<2'^
missaL A History of the Sheriffdom waa published in 1723.
8E0BEDITGH, 729
saperintend. The sheriffii are always sworn in on the eve of Michaelmas-day, upon
which the Liyery-men meet at Qtuldhall to elect the Lord Mayor for the ensuing year,
and their first doty is to take part in that ceremony. The first Jew sheriff was Mr.
David (now Alderman) Salomons, 1835; and the first Roman Catholic sheriff was Mr.
Richard Swift» M.P., 1851 : the latter was attended in State by a Romish priest as his
chaplain. A factions sheriff (Slingsby Bethel) is thus commemorated, as Shimei, by
Dry den:
" No Bachabite more •hmm'd the fhmei of wine ;
Chaste were his oellan, and his shrievid board
The groflBneaa of a City feast abhorr'd :
His cooks, with long aisas& their trade forgot—
Cool was his kitchra, thongli his brains were hot."
JbtaUm and AehUopkeL
One of the oldest shrievalty customs was that of the Lord Mayor drinking to persons
for nomination to the office : it was revived in 1682, at the request of Charles II.,
with a factious olgect; when Sheriffii Shute and Pilkington were committed by the
King to the Tower, upon a false charge of riot. In 1685, Alderman and Sheriff Cor-
nish, being implicated in the Rye-house Plot, was hanged, drawn, and quartered at
the end of King-street, Cheapside, fronting his own house.
Sheriff Hoare has left a journal of his shrievalty, in 1740-41, in his own handwriting :
deacrilnng his investiture in his scarlet gown, the gold chain taken off the former
sheriff and put on him ; the delivery of the prisoners and prison-keys, and the keeper's
treat of sack and walnuts, Sept. 28th ; how the sheriffs, April 6th, entertained the
^ Exchequer officers with 52 calves'-heads, dressed in different manners ; how, Sept. 2nd
(anniversary of the Fire of London), the sheri& went to St. Paul's, in their ** black
gowns, and no chains, and heard a sermon ;** how, Sept. 8th, they went with the lord
mayor to proclaim Southwark Fair ; the Christ's Hospital treat of sweet cakes and
burnt wine, on St. Matthew's day (Sept. 2l8t) ; and sack and walnuts on Sept. 28th,
when the dieriff returned home, to his " gpreat consolation and comfort." In the per-
mission granted to sheriffs to keep condemned prisoners in the Sheriffs' own houses, as
well as in the gaols, is thought to be traceable the origin of the " Sponging-house.'
ft
TA€ aherUIV Fund was estabUshed by Sir Richard Phillips, sheriff 1807-6. who, in his UtUr to fiU
Idcery of London, tells as that, after a few visits to Newgate, ho discovered so maoy well-founded
claims of a pectiniary patare on his charity, that it became impossible to meet a tenth part of them.
A Sheriffs Fond was therefore pablidy annoonced, and the design was generally appfanded, if not
generally aided: thongh the Sheriff collected, in the coarse of the year, aboat 600/., and assisted and
relieved many thousand of dbtressed individaals and thdr fomiliea, a trifling balance was handed over
to his Boooeasors in the Shrievalty. The Bherii&i' Fand, in 1867, amounted to nearly 1S,OOOZ.
In 1840, Sheriffs Evans and Wheelton were imprisoned by the House of Commons
at Westminster, for an alleged breach of privilege.
8R0MEDITCE,
AN andent manor and parish, extending from Norton Folgate to Old-street, andfh>m
part of Finsbury to Bethnal-g^een. It was originally a village on the Roman
military highway, called by the Saxons Eald (».e.. Old) Street. Stow declafes it to have
been called Soenditch more than 400 years before his time : and Weever states it to
have been named from Sir John de Soerdich, lord of the manor temp. Edward III.,*
and who was with that king in his wars with France. The legend of its being called after
Jane Shore dying in a ditch in its neighbourhood, is a popular error, traceable to a
black-letter ballad in the Pepys Collection, entitled. The Woful Lamentation of Jane
Shore, a Ooldtmith's Wife in London, some time King Edward IV, his Conotibine
" I ooold not get one bit of bread.
Whereby my hanger mi^ht be fed:
Nor drink, bat each as channels yield.
Or stinking ditches in the field.
Thus, weary of my life at lengthen
I yielded ap my vital strength
* The same fkmfly of Soerdich, or Shordich, it is believed, possessed the manor of Ickenham,
near Uxbridge, and resided at Ickenham Hall, from the reign of Edward III. to oar own time. The
lut of this family, Paal Ricaat Shordiohe, civil engineer, grandson of Michael Shordiche, of Ickenham
'unor, died at Antigoa, Jidy 18, 188S.
730 0JJBI08ITIEB OF LONDON.
Within a ditch of loathsome scoit.
Where carrion dogs did much ftieqaent :
The which now, since my dying day^
If Btaoreditoh eill'd, as wxiten saye.**
But this bnlUid if not older than the middle of the 17th oentory ; tad bo mentka is
made of Jane so dying in a hallad by Th. Cbnrchyard, dated 1587. Dr. Percy erto-
neoady refers ShoredUch to '* its being a common sewer, yolgarly «Aorr, or inoif
It is sometimes called Sorditch, which is the most correct, according to the absre
explanation. An archer of this parish, named Barlo^, was styled " Duke of Shoreditch'*
by Henry VIIL, for having outshot his competitors in a shooting match at Windsor;
and the Captain of the Company of Archers of London was long after atjled ** Dcte
of Shoreditch." In the Beaufoy Collection are four Shoreditch tokens^ one with figims
of Edward IV. and his mistress ; and the sign of Jane Shore is extant at a pol&-
honse in the High-street.
Shoreditch is the scene of another apocryphal tragedy ; the old ballad laying here
the locus im quo of Qeorge Barnwell's dieipation, where lived Mrs. Millwood, wlio lei
him astray :— -
" George BsmweU, then qnoth she,
Do thoQ to Shoreditch c*ome»
And MMk for Mrs. Millwood's houae^
Next door nnto the Gaa."
Kow, Shoreditch was formerly notorious for the easy character of its iromen ; and fei
die iu Shoreditch was not a mere metaphorical term for dying in a sewer. {Cuumiaf-
ham). See the story in Bomanee of London, vol. i. pp. 314—324. Jaaies Smith
wrote the ballad of "George Barnwell iraveetiei" and Thackeray a fismoos earicatoie
romance, entitled " Qeorge de Barnwell."
Holywell Lane and Mount (" heightening of the ground for garden-plotsi,'' iStov),
and Holywell Row, m Shoreditch, are named -from a holy well there ; and a hoiae d
Benedictine nuns of that name, founded by a Bishop of London, and rebiult^ with ths
Church of St. John and the chapel, by Sir Thomas Level, of Lincoln's Inn, Treesnzcr
of the Household to King Henry VII., E.G., &c.
Sir Thomas Lovel was buried there Jane 8. 1526, "in a tombe of whyte marbell, on the sootlK sy^
«f the qoyre of the saide chnrche."— (Bool; of Hu College pf Arm*^ At his fUneral there were preseet
the Bishop of Ltmdon, Lord St. John, Sir Bichard Wyngfieid, and many others, nobles and gcntleiBS.
The Abbot of Waltham, the Prior of St Mtry Spital, fi>ar orders of Man, the M^yor and all the al«ies*>
men of London, gentlemen of the Inns of Court, the Lord Steward, and all the derks of Loodoa atleodel
Fart of the ChuMl remains nnder the floor of the GUL IRng John, and the stone doorway into the porta'f
lodge of the Prio^ still exists. {IfoU$ and Queriet, No. 179.) Shoreditch Cross U beliered to hate
stood on the west side of Kingsland-road, and to have been demoIisluMl in 164Sb
St Leonard's Church, at the north end of Shoreditch, is described at p. ITS. Near
the altar is a tablet to tiie memory of a descendant of the royal house of Hangaiy;
and in the crypt is the noble altar-tomb of a descendant of the great John Conrines
Huniades, whose son was elected King of Hungary. Li the belfry are recorded sereral
feats of bell-ringing, including 16 March, 1777, when the " College Tonths*' perfanoed
11,000 changes in eight hours, adding that their names would be handed down to
posterity, "Unsaturated with glory." In the churchyard is boned Gardner, the
worm destroying doctor of Long Acre; his tombstone inscribed, '*Dr« Joha
Oardner's (intended) last and best bed-room." In 1811, a writ of arrest was serred
by a sheriff's officer upon a dead body, as it was being conveyed to this chnrdiyard ;
which occasioned Lord Ellenborough to declare the process altogether illegal. In St.
Leonard's Church is some pdnted glass from one of the Priory windows. " Xeare
thereunto are builded two publique houses for the acting and shewe of oomedicii,
tragedies, and histories, for recreation. Thereof one is called the Courtain, the other
the Theatre, both standing on the south-west toward the field." {Stow, 1st edit
p. 849.) Hence the Curtain Theatre, built in Holy well-lane, and Curtadm-road ;
in the latter, at the Blue Last public-house» porter is traditionally said to have been
first sold, aboot 1780.
A Public Hall has been built for St. Leonaid's, facing Old-street, of Corinthian and
Boric architecture ; in the basement are the parochial offices ; and on the first-floor
the Qreat Hall, to hold 1800 persons. In 1854 were erected almshouses in Brunswick-
ctreet. Hackney-road, for twenty aged women of the parish; the architecture b
8MITHFIELB. 731
Jacobean. The Great Eastern Railway crosses the main street, and near the station
is the firat of the buildings erected by the trustees to whom the disposal of Mr. Pca-
body'a munificent gift to the City of London was referred. Hard by is Colombia
Market, erected at the expense of Miss Bordett Contts (see p. 658). Philanthropy
has long been at work here, but much remains to be done.
Tbe people of St. Philip's, Shorediteh, are types of a class which is no small one-^the qmUt mot, the
people who stmgvle earnestly to obtain subsistence oat of the workhoase, who abstain from oegganr,
and who are not brought under our notice bj their crimes. This district of Bethnal-green seems to
consist almost wholly of such persons. A small space of gronnd is tibere covered with about fourteen
tboiuand of them, weaTers, costermongers, and oUiers, each family lodged in a single room. The mass
of this population subsist upon earnings that aTCxage little more than threepence a-day, for the main-
tenance of each body, great and small, with shelter, food, and clothing. They are not soualid or
TicioQfl, they will work their hearts away for the most miserable hire, they work and help each other,
they work and griere and die. In this one district of St Philip's, Shoredltch, which is but a little
island in the world of sorrow, there is work for thousands of warm-hearted people, who with scanty aid
may do great aenrioe.— £eaM«ii«r, abridge
SKINITER-STnJBIlT AND SNOW-RILL.
SKINNEB-STREET, extending from Kewgate-street to Holbom-hill, was built
about 1802, to avoid the circuit of 8»aw-hill, also called Snor, Snore^ and Sonr*
hill ; the projector of the improvement was Alderman Skinner. Here was a large
seven-storied house, burnt down in 1813, estimated loss 25,000^. At No. 41, William
Godwin, author of C<ileh WUliame kept a bookseller's shop, and published his juvenile
works under the name of Edward Baldwin : over his shop-door is an artificial stone
relief of JEaap narrating his tables to children. Opponte No. 58, in 1817, was hung
Casbman the sulor, who had joined a mob in plundering the gfunsmith's shop at the
above house.
In a shop -window on Snow-hill, Vandyke saw the pieture by Dobson, which led him
to seek out the painter in a garret, and recommend him to Charles I. At the sign of
the Star, on Snow-hill, at the house of his friend Mr. Strudwick, a grocer, died
12th August, 1688, John Bunyan, author of the Pt/^m'f ^rogrees, and was buried
in that friend's vault in Bunhill-fields burial-ground. At No. 87, King-street, Snow-
hill, was formerly the Ladies' Charity School, which was estabUshed in 1702, and
remained in the parish 145 years. Mrs. Thrale and Dr. Johnson were subscribers to
this scbrjol ; and Johnson drew from it his story of Betty Broom, in The Idler. In
the school minutes, 1763, tbe ladies of the committee censured the schoolmistress for
listening to the story of the Cock-lane Ghost, and " denred her to keep her belief in
the article to herself." The School-house is No. 30, John-street, Bedford-row. Great
part of Skinner-street has been taken down in clearances for the Holbom-valley
and the Metropohtan BaUway works.
8MITHFIELI),
ANCIENTLY just outside the City wall, was the great pubHc walk of the citizens,
- their rare-conrse, and live market {eee p. 561; vulgo^ Smiffel), It was a
great field for quintain-matches, and wns called " Rufiians' Hall," for its frays and
<xnnmon fighting with sword and buckler, superseded by the deadly fight of rapier and
dagger. Ben Jonson, in his Bartholomew J^Vm*, sp«iks of " the sword and buckler
^ge in Smithfield" having but recently passed away; and in the Two Angry Women
of Abingdon, 15d9, complaint is made that "the sword and buckler fight begins to
grow out of use." The town-green had its dump of trees, " the Elms," which was
the pbux* of public execution until tlie middle of the ISth century, when it was
removed to Tyburn. At tbe Elms suffered William Fitzosbert (Longbeard) ; here
" Mortimer was executed, and let hang two days and two nights, to be seen of the
P^ple ;" and here perished the patriot Wallace^ on St. Bartholomew's even, 1305 —
the place of blood being in Cow-lane, close to the end of St. John's-court. At Smith-
field, on Saturday, June 15th, 1381, Richard II. met Wat Tyler and his " shoeless
ribalds," the King towards the east, near St. Bartholomew's Priory, and the Commons
towards the west; when Tyler, seizing the boy-king's horse, was stabbed by Walworth,
732 CUJtI08ITIE8 OF LONDON.
mayor of London ; and a few days after. Jack Straw, the second rebel in comiiiaai
was hanged at the Elms. But Smithfield has its sunnier epoch of jooata, toomaBiesti.
and feats of arms. Here Edward III. commemorated the brilliant realities of Cresr
and Poictiers ; and here the doting monarch feasted Alice Fierce (^ the lady of tk
sun") with seven days' chivalric sports. Richard II. held " a great jnstai^ hen m
1390, when was ** given first the hadge of the White Hart, with golden chains cid
crowns ;" and here^ in 1396, the king celebrated his marriage by three days' toanft-
ment. In 1393 " certain lords of Scotland came into England, to get worship k
force of arms in Smithfield" (IMnari). This was likewise the scene of ordeal ccs*
bats, when the place of battle was strewed with rushes : here was fongfat the whimsol
oomhat of Homer and Peter, as told by Holinshed, and dramatized by Shakipease
(King Renry FJ., Part II.)
The resli^ is thns reoorded in the Or«g Bnmnf CkronieU, Hen. TI.: "sxf° A^ Tfays jere ns i
ly ghtyn^e in smytbfelde betwene ane armerar of fletstret and his lerrant, for worddas ageost the kyBgi;
whereof hya leryant aaseld bym; and the aenrant slew the master in the felda."
In the play of Henry VI. is the king's sentence :
" The witch in Smithlield ahiil be bnni'd to aahes."
The martyrology of Smithfield forms a still more terrible page of its history. Hav
were burnt the martyrs, fron» John Rogers, " the protomartyr of the Marian persecs-
tion," in 1555, to Bartholomew Leggatt, in 1611, the last martyr who suffered at tbs
stake in England. Of the 277 persons burnt for heresy in the reig^ of Mary, tbe
great majority suflered in Smithfield : a large gas-light (in the middle of the {^h)
denoted the reputed spot ; but the discovery in 1849 of some blackened stcmes, asba^
and charred human bonei^ at 3 feet from, tbe surface, opposite the gateway of Ss.
Bartholomew's Church, induces the belief that here was the g^reat hearth of the b^
fires. Charred human bones and ashes were also discovered, at 5 feet from thesnr&ec;
at the west end of Long-lane, in July, 1854. In Smithfield, likewise^ poiaoaers were
" boiled to death " by statute, in the reign of Henry VIII.
" xiy° A^ Thyt yere waa a man aoddyne in a eaatheme (boiled in a cauldron} fai Sn^fthfelde, sd
lett np and downe dyvers tymea tvli he waa dede, finr because he wold a pojasynd dyvers peraosis."
'*xx^° A^ Tliia yere waa a coke boylyd in a caudeme in SmTthfela, for he wolde a powsynd &!
Maboppe of Bochester, frcber, with dyrers of hys servanttes ; and he waa lockyd in a cAiajre^ and poUju
np and downe with a sybbyt at dyvers tymes, till be was dede."
xxiiy^ A^' The X day of Harcn was a mayde boyllyd in Smylhfelde, fbr poyRyng of ^Tvera perscsn."
—CknmieU <tf th* Qrtg Frian qfL(mi<m, edited by J. Googh Nichols, F.aA. Printed fi>r the Caada
Society. 1862.
From this Chronicle we learn that the gallows was "set up at sent Bartylmewysgate.^
The entries of burnings for " &rrj9bQ " are also very numerous. Burning far o^ha
crimes was, however, continued : Evelyn records, " 1652, May 10. — Passing by Smith-
field, I saw a miserable creature burning who had murdered her husband."
In Stow's time, tbe encroachments by " divers fiiir inn^ and other bnildings,** had
left but a small portion of Smithfield for the old uses. After the Great Fin; the
houseless people were sheltered here in huts. Over against Ke-comer is Oock4ame:
Goldsmith's pamphlet respecting the Cock-lane ghost was first included in his coQected
Works edited by Peter Cunningham, F.S.A., 1854. This ancient locality has beea
much disturbed by the removal of the old market^ and by railway encroachmenta.
Bastholomew Faib, held in Smithfield from the reign of Henry I. to oar own
time, is described at p. 32-36. The Fair was finally abolished in 1853. Tbe
Churches of St. Bartholomew and St. Bartholomew-the-Less are noticed at pp. 152, 153.
8MITMFIEL2), JSA8T,
BETWEEN Littie Tower-hill and Batdiff-highway, was, according to Stow, hdan
the reign of King Stephen, made a vineyard by the Constables of the Tower,
being forcibly taken by them from the Priory of the Holy Trinity, within Aldgate.
Here Edward III. founded New Abbey, in 1359, called the White Order, and named
Eastminster. Spenser the poet is said to have been bom in East Smithfield ; and here,
24th July, 1629, Charles I. killed a stag, which he had hunted from Wanstesd, in
Essex. (Stow,) A plan of East Smithfield in Elisabeth's reign shows the site of sn
ancient stone cross, and the stocks and cage.
SOCIETY OF ABT8. 733
SOCIETT OF ANTIQUARIES.
THE early history of this Society, from 1707, when the few memhera first met,
" upon pain of forfeiture of sixpence/' is noted at page 530 : the plan was drawn
np hy Humphrey Wanley; and the minates date from Jan. 1, 1718, when the
members brought to the weekly meetings, coins, medals, seals, intaglios, cameos,
manuscripts, records, rolls, genealogies, pictures, drawings, &c. The first president
was Martin Folkes, 1751. The Society occupy apartments in Somerset House, formerly
the Royal Society's. The president is Earl Stanhope, the accomplished historian.
Terms of admission reduced in 1853 from eight to five guineas entrance fee ; and from
four to two guineas annual subscription. The strict form of admission is by the
president or presiding officer placing upon his head a cocked-hat ; in one hand he holds
the Society's iron gilt mace, and with the other hand he welcomes the new Fellow,
saying : " By the authority and in th# name of the Society of Antiquaries of London, I
a^it you a Fellow thereof." To the names of the members are usually appended
F.S.A. The Obligation Book contuns the signatures of the leading antiquaries,
Fellows of the Society. The Society possess a Libbahy, noticed at page 516 ; and a
HvsETiic, see page 590. A synopsis of the contents of the Museum is presented to the
Fellows. The oid paintings and memorials in the Meeting-room are curious.
The Sodety'B Transactions {Arckaclogid)^ pablishdd aannally, date flrom 1770. Among their other
SibUcationa are Vetiula Monumenia^ vol. Ti., illustratinr the Baieuz tapestry; Folk^'s Tables of
nglish Silver and Gold Coins: Wardrobe-book of Edward 1.; Ordinances and Befn^Iations of the JSoyal
Hooeeholds, firom Edward III. to William and Mary; Boy's Militaiy Antiquities of the Romans in
Britain ; Account of the Collegiate Chapel of St. Stephen, at Westminster ; Acconnts of the Cathedrals
of Exeter, Dnrham, and GloacMter, and of Bath and St. Alban's Abbey Churches ; Cndmon's Metrical
Paraphrase of the Holy Scriptures in Anglo-Saxon. The Society have also published large historiual
prints of the Field of the Cloth-of-Gold, 1520; Francis I.'s attempt to invade England, 1646; the Pro-
cession of King Edward YI. from the Tower to Westminster; Aggas's Plan of Loudon, &c
SOCIETY OF ARTS.
" rriHE Society for the Encouragement of Arts, Mann&ctures, and Commerce,"
•L orig^nateid with William Shipley, a drawing-master, and brother to the Dean of
St. Asaph. With the concurrence of Jacoh Viscount Folkestone, Robert Lord Bomney,
and Dr. Maddox, Bishop of Worcester, the Society first met, March 29, 1751, at
Rawthmell's Coffee-house, Henrietta-street, Covent-garden : Shipley acting as Secretary;
and the plan of the Society heing drawn up hy William Baker, the microscopist.
Oliver Goldsmith took great interest in the early proceedings of the Sodety, in a
magazine published by Newbery ; and the Doctor was a candidate for the secretary-
ship. Much attention was then bestowed upon "the polite arts:" among the first
objects was the offer of premiums for drawings by girls and boys under 16 years of
age. The Society next met, 1754-5, in apartments over a circulating-library in Crane-
coort. Fleet-street; next in Craig's-court, Charing-croes ; at the comer of Castle-
court, Strand; in 1759 they removed to a house (afterwards Dibdin*s Sans Soud)
opposite Beaufort-buildings ; and next to their new house in John-street, Adelphi, in
1774. Presidents: Viscount Folkestone, 1755-1761; Lord Rodney, 1761-1793;
the Duke of Norfolk, 1793-1815 ; the Duke of Sussex, 1815-1848 ; Prince Albert,
1843-1861 ; and the present President, the Prince of Wales.
Sarl^ Award* nf tU Society. —Th^ first prize to Btchard Coswaj, then 16. In 1768, Baoon, the
scalptor, for a small figure of Peace ; and he gained 9 other high prizes ; 1761, NoUekens, for an alto-
reUcTo of Jephtha's Vow, and in 1771 for a more important pleoe of scalptore ; in 1768, Flaxman, and
in 1771 the Society's Gold Medal. Lawrence, when 13. received a silrer-gilt palette and 6 guineas for
hia crajon-drawing of the Transflgnration. In 1807, to Sir William Boss, then 12, a siver-gllt palette
for a drawing of wat Tyler ; in 1810, a similar reward to Sir Edwhi Lanaseer for an etching ; and to
A Wyon, in 1818, the Gold Medal for a medal die. Among the other recipients of prizes may be named
Allan Conningham, Molready, and Hillais.
The first public Exhibition of the works of British Artists was held at the Society's
house- in the Strand, in 1760: hence originated the Boya] Academy, who^ in 1776, with
Sir Joshua Reynolds at their head, refusiog to paint the Society's Qreat Coundl-room
at the Adelphi, next year Barry, who had sigued the refusal with the rest, volunteered
734 cuBioaiTiES OF Loinyom
to deoonte tbe room without any remaneration at all : the pictnres are described it
page 608 : tbe room ia 47 feet in length, 42 feet in breadth, and 40 in heig-ht^ Askss
the prime objeeU of the Society were the application of Art to tbe improvaufEt
of Design in Mannfactnrei, now developed in " Art Mannfactmree ;" the impitJfvemeEt of
Agriculture and Horticulture ; and in 1783 a reward was offered for a remping-ii]fl£bb&
The Sodety has ctistributed more than 100,000/. in preminms and bounties. Ibe
growth of fbrest-trees was one of its early objects of encouragement ; and among xht
recipients of its Gold Medal (designed by Flaxman) were the Dukes of Bedford lal
Beaufort, the Earls of Winterton, Upper Ossory, and Mansfield; and Dr. Watsao,
Bishop <k Llandaff. Then came Agriculture, Chemintry, Manuiacturesi, and Mecliaiiks»
including tapestry and the imitation of Turkey carpets, Marseilles and India qmltizf,
spinning and lace-making, improved paper, catgut for muacal instromenta ; straw bcs-
nets and artificial fiowers. Among the Sodety's colonial objects were the mannfiKtm
of potash and pearlaah, the culture of the vine, the growth of ailk-wormsi, indigo, asd
vegetable oils. Very many rewards have been ^ven by the Society to poor Bethial*
green and Spitalfieldi weavers for useful inventions in their manufactnre.
The Society's Libsast is described at pagej525 ; and its Mussuic of Modela, asd
the Ficturem and Sculpture, at pp. 603. Dr. Johnson says of Bany'a paintings^ *' There
is a grasp of mind there which you will find nowhere else." The Society held the firit
tegular Exhibition of Useful Inventions in 1761, when a Mr. Bailey explained the xre^
ral articles to the visitors. The Premiums are annually presented in the Great Rckss,
where have been held Exhibitions of Decorative Art uneqnalled in this ooontry. The
Society chiefly prepared the public mind for the Great Exhibition of 1851 ; and here
Mr. Paxton first developed his plan of its stupendous building, Nov. 13, 1830. Anncsl
Subscription to the Sodety, two guineas. Among the Spedal Prizes is the bequest d[
Dr. Swiney of 100 guineas, in a Silver Cup of the same value, to be given every fiith
year for the best treatise on Jurisprudence ; the Cup, designed by D. Madise;, bLa^ h
surmounted by figures of Justice, Vengeance, and Mercy ; in the centre is a niello of a
hall of justice ; and at the base are four kneeling slaves. The Centenary of the Society
of Arts was celebrated July, 1854^ by a banquet in the Crystal Palace, Sydenhanu
For manj years the office of Secretary was filled by Arthur Aikin, eldest son of I>r. Aikhi, the friecd
of John Howard, aud brother of Lncy Aikin ; and who published a Mcumal qf Mimerdlogg, AriM ami
3i*Mt^aetur09t and a Chemical JHcHonartf, He died in 1854, aged 80. Among tiie Sodetj^s Vke>
Presidents was Thomas liope^ anthor of some tasteftal works on oostnm^ furniture^ and deoonKkn;
and whose hoose in Dachess-street was a model of artistic design (described at page 561} : ha« was a
piece of carved fiunitnre, which, many years after it was execated. was specially no3oed by Sir Fraads
Chantrey : on being askod the reason, he replied, " That was my nrst work."
80H0,
A DISTRICT north-east of Piccadily,eztending to Oxford-street. Mr.Cunningham has
found the name " Sobo" in the rate-books of St. Martin's as early as the year 163? ;
thus invalidating the tradition by Pegge and Pennant, that Soho* being the watdiwovd
at the battle of Sedgemoor, in 1685, it was given to King-square, in memory of the Duke
of Monmouth, whose mansion was upon the south side. The boundariea of Soho aie
Oxford-street, north ; Crown-street, east ; King-street, south ; and Wardour-street and
Princes-street, west. Soho-square and the a^oining fields passed by royal grants to
the Earl of St. Albans, the Duke and Duchess of Monmouth, and the Earl of Portland;
and the streets are named from this appropriation, or from their builders. The honses
in Soho-square and the streets adjoining are remarkably well built, and were tenanted
by nobility and gentry until our time. Carlisle Souse and Streei, named from
having been the residence of the Earls of Carlisle, are described at p. 446 : here lived Badb.
and Abel, the musical composers. Oreehstreet and Church-street are named from tbe
Greek Church in Crown-street. In Greek-street the elder Wedgwood had warerooms
before he removed to St. James's ; and Mr. (after Sir Thomas) Lawrence, BwA., was
living here in 1806. In Wardour-street (Old Soho) French Protestanta were early
* " Soho is the same as ' pray stop' " (Booth's Amalytiedl Diet.) : hence it msr have been a^^ed. la
the above instance, to the extension of building in this direoUon, more espedauy as it was pcoldbited
by a proclamation in 1071.
SOMERSET HOUSE, OLD. 735
settlers, and probably brought the trade in foreig^n art. BermcJc-Hreet is described by
Hfltton (1708) as " a kind of row ; the fronts of the houses resting on columns, make a
small piazza." In Dean-Street lived Sir James Thornhill, at No. 75, which has the
staircase-walls of his painting; and at No. 33 died young, in 1819, Harlowe, the
painter of the Trial of Queen Katharine. Oerard-Hreet is named from Gerard, Earl
of Macdesfieldy the owner of the nte, formerly *' the Military Garden" of Henry Prince
of Wales, eldest son of James I. {eee p. 458) ; and Princet-Hreet is built upon part of
the ground : here, in 1718, lived Halley the astronomer. The landlord's title is also
preserved in Macelesfield'Street. In Gerard House lived the profligate Lord Mohun.
At No. 48, Gerard'Street, John Dryden resided with his wife. Lady Elizabeth Howard :
his study was the front pariour ; Dryden died here in 1700. In (Gerard-street lived
Edmund Burke at the time of Warren Hastings' trial; and here at the Turk's Head,
(removed from Grreek-street, where met the Loyal Association of 1745), Johnson, Sir
Joshua Beynolds, and Burke founded the Literary Club in 1764 {tee p. 251). Here a
Society of Artists met in 1753 ; and another Society, induding West, Wilson, Wilton.
Chambers, Sandby, &c, who, from the TurJ^t Head, petitioned George III. to patronize
a Royal Academy of Art. In Gerard-street was formerly the chief receiving-house of
the Twopenny Post. CompUm-street was built in the reign of Charles II., by Sir
Francis Compton; and New Compton'Street was first named Stiddolph-street, after
Sir Richard Stiddolph, the owner of the land.— -Dr. Rimbanlt, in Notee and Queriee,
No. 15. {See Squasbs : Soho.)
The Lion Brewery, hi Soho, was formerW the property of the onde of Sir Richard Phillips, who was
broQgfat up in Uiis establishment^ to which be waa neir. This prospective fortnne did not, however^
oveitiome bis distaste for the bosmees of a brewer ; and a passion for literatare. particularly mathe-
matics and natural philosophy, led him, at the age d 17, to detaoh himself trom his fiunily connexions,,
and seek his own chance ox life.
SOMERSET HOUSE, OLD,
OB, SOMERSET-PLACE, on the north side of the Strand, was commenced building
about 1547, by the Protector Somerset, maternal uncle of Edward VI. To
obtain space and materials, he demolished Strand or Chester's Inn, and the episcopal
houses of Lichfield, Coventry, Worcester, and Llandafi^, bendes the church and tower
of St. John of Jerusalem; for the stone, also, he pulled down the great north
cloister of St. Paul's ; St. Mary's Church too was taken down, and the site became
part of the garden. The Duke's cofferer's account shows the building, in 1551, to have
cost 10,091Z. (present money, 50,000/.). The architect was John of Padua, contempo-
rary with Holbein ; and there is a plan of the house among Thorpe's drawings in the
Soane Museum ; it was the first building of Italian architecture erected in England.
Stow describes it in 1603, as " a large and beautiful house, but yet unfinished." The
Protector ^d not inhabit the palace ; for he was imprisoned in the Tower in 1549, and
beheaded in 1552. Somerset Place then devolved to the Crown, and was assigned by
Edward VI. to his sister the Princess Elizabeth.
" Feb. 1506-7, Cornelias de la Noyne, an alchymist, wrought In Somerset House, and abased many
In promising to convert any metall into gold."— Xord £urghle/» Notes,
In 1570, Queen Elizabeth went to the Boyal Exchange, " from her house at the
Strand, called Somerset House ;" it also occurs as " Somerset Place, beyond Strand
Bridge." The Queen lent the mansion to her kinsman. Lord Hunsdon, whose guest
sbo occasionally became. At her death, the palace was settled as a jointure-house of
the queen-consort ; and passed to Anne of Denmark, queen of James I., by whose
command it was called Denmark House, Inigo Jones erected here ** new buildings and
enlargements." Here the remains of Anne and James I. lay in State. For Henrietta
]\Iaria, queen of Charles I., Inigo Jones built a chapel, with a rustic arcade and Corin-
thian columns, facing the Thames; and here the Queen established a convent of
Capuchin friars ; in the passage leading Arom east to west, under the quadrangle of
the present Somerset House, are five tombstones of the Queen's attendants.
From a manuscript inventory in the library of Mr. Gough, " the ehappel goodt at Somerset House**
were numerous and costly. Of the goods and Axrniture aporaised in 1648, the eurreu hangings and
tapestry were of great vafne; the state-beds, navilions, canopies, cloth8^>f-state. carpets, mantles, table*
linen, ic, were very rich : one of the beds of embroidered Prench saUn was valued at 1000^. Among
736 CURIOSITIES OF LONDON.
the pictoret were the Madonna by Baphael, Tallied at HOOOL ; a Slaepisff Tenns Irj Camf^:, A
1000c. ; and many by Titian, And. del Sarto, Julio Romano^ Gnido, CorreRgfo. GiofgiODe, VaDdjfcfe,ie.
Of the teDementa **belonf^9 onto Somerset House" (20 inns), the B*d Zmmk, nearly opposite, ia
the Strand, is the only remaining one among the signs in the list : the aciUptared 8i$n-ston« is ]i^
Into the house No. S4a» Strand.
loigo Jones died here in 1652. During the Protectorate, the altar azid ebapdvae
ordered to be burnt ; and in 1659 the palace was about to be sold for 10,000^ ; k:
after the Restoration, the Qaeen-mother Henrietta returned to Somerset Houses wbidi
she repaired; hence sbe is made to exclaim, in Cowley's oonrtly Terse :^
" Before mj gate a street's broad channel goes,
stul with waves of crowding peome flc
Which still with waves of crowding people flows ;
And every day there passes \n my sioa^
Up to its western reach, the London tide,
The spring-tides of the term. My front looks down
Waller's adulatory incense rises still higher :
" But what new mine this work supplies ?
Can such a pile from ruin rise?
This like the first creation shows.
As if at yonr command it rote."
Upom k«r MaJ«gtjf'§ Nmo BuiUimffa at Soaurmi Som»$,
Here was introduced into England the inlaying of floors with ooloored wtn^
Pepys gossips of " the Queen-mother's court at Somenet House, above our own Queec's ;
mass in the chapel; the garden; and the new buildings, mighty magnificent asi
costly," " stately and nobly furnished ;" and " the great stone stairs in the gai^^
with tho brave echo." The Queen-mother died abroad in 1669. In 1669-70 tk
remains of Monk, Duke of Albemarle, " lay for many weeks in royal state^ atSonuTse;
House ; and thence he was buried with every honour short of regality. Thither tli^
remains of Oliver Cromwell were removed from Whitehall in 1658, and were bid in
State in the great hall of Somerset House, " and represented in effigy^ standing oo i
bed of crimson velvet ;" he was buried from thence with great pomp and pageantir.
which provoked the people to throw dirt, in the night, on his escatcheon that vas
placed over the great gate of Somerset Place ; his pompous funeral cost 28,0002. On
the death of Charles II., in 1685, the palace became the sole residence of the Qceea
Dowager, Catherine of Braganza ; and in 1678 three of her household were cbar]^
with the murder of Sir Edmund Berry Godfrey, by decoying him into Somerset Hoa%,
and there strangling him. {See Pbimbose Hill, p. 692.) 'Die Queen had here a seuH
establishment of Capuchins, who inhabited " the New Friaiy," as did the Capochios
in Henrietta Maria's time, ** the Old Friary ;" both are shown in a plan 1706.
Strype describes the palace about 1720 ; its front with stone pillars, its 6pacio3S
square comrt, great hall or guard-room, large staircase and rooms of State, larger courts.
and '* most pleasant garden;" the water-gate with figures of Thames and las; and tiK
wat«r*garden, with fountain and statues. Early in the last century, court masquersdc<
were g^ven here : Addison, in the Freeholder, mentions one in 1716 ; and in 1763 a
splendid fdte was g^ven here by Government to the Venetian Ambassador. In 1771>
the Royal Academy had apartments in the palace, g^nted by George III. In 1775,
Parliament settled upon Queen Charlotte Buckingham House, in whidi she then resdcd,
in lieu of Old Somerset House, which was given up to be demolished, for the erection iipon
the ute of certain public oflSces ; the produce of the sale of Ely House being appiieil
towards the expenses. The chapel, which had been opened for the Protestant serrioe,
by order of Queen Anne, in 1711, was not closed until 1777. The venerable oourt-wij
f^rom the Strand, and the dark and winding steps which led down to the garden
beneath the shade of ancient and loffcy trees, were tho last lingering features of
Somerset Place, and were characteristic of the gloomy lives and fortunes of its rojal
and noble inmates. " Tho best view of the ancient house is preserved in the Dulwidi
Gallery."— CAar^e* Beed, F,S.A.
SOMFESFT SOUSE
OCCUPIES the nte of the old palace, an area of 800 feet by 600, or a few feet less
than the ai ea of RusseU-square. It is the finest work of Sir William Chambers:
SOMERSET SOUSE. 737
the first stone was laid in 1776 ; and the Strand front, 7 stories high, was nearly
completed in 1780.* It consists of a rustic arcade basement of 9 arches, supporting
Corinthian columns, and an attic in the centre, with a balnstrade at each extremity ;
the whole . in Portland stone. The key-stones of the arches sre colossal mssks of
Ocean, and the eight g^reat rivers of England, — the Thames, Hnmber, Mersey, Medway,
Dee, Tweed, Tyne, and Severn— sculptured by Carlini and Wilton. In the frieze of
the three middle windows are medallions of George III., his queen, and the Prince of
Wales. In the attic are statues of Justice, Truth, Valour, and Temperance; the
summit being surmounted by the British Arms, supported by Fame and the Genius of
England. The vaultings of the vestibule are enriched with sculptures from the
antique, and are supported by two ranges of coupled Doric columns. On the east side
are the entrances to the apartments of the Royal Society, the Society of Antiquaries,
the Royal Astronomical Society, and the Geological Society ; and on the west were
those of the Royal Academy, subsequently of the School of Design, next of the Uni-
versity of London Board. Over the central doorway, east, is a bust of Newton ;
w^t, of Michael Angelo ; by Wilton, R.A.
Facing the vestibule is a massive bronze gn^up of Georg^e III. leaning upon a
rudder, backed by the prow of a Roman (!) vessel, and a couchant lion ; and at the
monarch's feet is a figure of the Thames^ with an urn and cornucopia : the work of
John Bacon, R.A. ; cost 2000/.
The inner side of the Strand ftt)nt has in the attic statues of the four quarters of
the globe ; and over the centre are the British Arms, supported by marine deities
holding a festoon of netting filled with fish, &e. Ornaments of antique altars and
sphinxes screen the chinmeys ; and on the key-stones are sculptured masks of tutelar
deities.
The east^ west, and south sides of the edifice are Government Offices, which occupy,
besides the sux>erstructure, two stories below the general level of the quadrangle, the
passages to which are skilfully contrived. The centre of the south side is enriched
with Corinthian columns and pilasters, and a pediment with a bas-relief of the arms
of the navy of Ghreat Britun, a sea-nymph, sea-horses, and tritons ; trophies, vases, &c.
• The Thames front, 800 feet in length, is in the Venetian style, and is enriched with
columns, pilasters, pediments, &c: at each extremity is an archway opening to
Somerset-place on the west, and King^s College on the east ; the latter built by Sir
Robert Smirke, in 1829, in accordance with Chambers's design. In each end a portico
stands on the summit of a semidrcular arch, the bases of two out of its four columns
resting on the hollow part, giving an air of insecurity intolerable in architecture.
The Terrace is 50 feet in width, and ndsed 50 feet above the bed of the river, upon
a massive rustic arcade, which has a central water-g^to surmounted with a colossal
mask of the river Thames. The side arches are flanked by rustic columns, and sur-
mounted by stone couchant lions, between 8 and 9 feet in length. The terrace is
skirted with a balustrade ; and here again is a colossal figure of the Thames. The
walk was formerly opened to the public on Sundays : the prospect includes the river,
with its mag^ficent bridge and picturesque craft; the dty, with its domes, towers,
and spires ; tiie forest of masts ; and the Surrey hills on the south : recalling Cowley's
lines:
"Ky other fidr and moet mt^estick fhce
(who can the fUr to more advantage plaoe P)
For ever gases on itself below,
In the beat mirronr that the world can show ;
And here behold, In alonff bending row,
How two Jojnt oities muce one glorious bow ;
The midst, uie noblest place, possessed by me ;
Best to be seen by all, and all o'ersee.
Which way soe'er I torn my joyful eye.
Here the great Court, there the rich Town I spy.
On either side dwells safety and delight i
Wealth on the left, and Power on the right"
In the quadrangle are the Admiralty Offices, where are the Model Room ; the
Audit Ofiice, the Legacy Duty Office, and Inland Hevenue Office (Stamps, Taxes, and
* Upon abiick in the wall of the western terraop, or Bomerset-plaoe, is cat R.* S. 1780.
8 B
738 CURIOSITIES OF LONDOIT.
Excise). The mechamcal tUmping is execated in the baaement : the preasei far
stamping postage enYelopes, by Edwin Hill, are the perfection of aatomaticxDachloecT.
In Somerset-pUuM, west, is the office of the Tithe Commisaon and of the Begistnr-
General : to the latter are transmitted registers of a million births^ deaths, and star-
riages in a year.
Over the entrance to the Stampe sad Tsxee Offlce, on the eonfli lid^ is a wateh-lheew P^>a^
believed to be tA« mOek of a brickUyer, end placed theie ae a memorial of his lifie haTinf been anc it
hie fkll, when the wall was bulldhig. hj hie watch-chain catching in some portion of tiie ocafibUL SiLi
Ss the traditional story ; but the watch-fkoe was really pot up some Ibrtj years siziee as a men&ac-
mark ft»r a transit tautnuncnt in a window of the Boyal Society's ante-room, in tbe inacr free of ^
north fircmt.
Mr. Cnnningham, In h\M Bamdbook of LomtUm, relates the following interesting droamatanoe; vhs&
he was told by an old derk on the eatablishment of the Andlt Offioe, at Somenet Hooee ?— " Wtea 1
first oame to this boilding,'' he said, "I was in the habit of seeing, fiw many momizkga. a ibia, q»es
naval offlcer, with only one arm, enter the Testibole at a smart step, and make direct for the Adminar
orer the rough, roond stones of the qnadrangle, instead of taking what others genera]^ took, mi
continae to ttte, the smooth pavemeBt of the sides. His thin, frail 6giize shook at ereiy step, sad I
often wondered why he chose so rough a footway ; bnt I ceased to wonder when I heard that the ths,
frail officer was no other than LordNelson, who alwaya took," oontinned my informant, "the aeasetf
wsy to the place he wanted to go ta"
Telford, the engineer, when he came to London in 1782, got employed on the
qnadrangle, then erecting by Sir William Chambdrs.
Somerset Hooae is almost the only public bnilding which dislangmshes the reign of
George III. : it cost half a million of money by the extant aoooants. Hie atyle is
Italian, ** refined to a degree scarcely excelled by Palladio himself." (JSIaaea.) Tbe
exterior is the perfection of masonry. The Tonic, Composite, and Connthiaaa capitals
throughout the building were copied from models execated at Bom^ by Chamben^
from antique originals : the sculptors employed in the decorations were Oarliniy Wiltoa,
Ceracd, NoUekens, Bacon, Bonks, and Flaxman.
The west wing, left incomplete by Sir W. Chambers, was resmned in 1852 (for tbt
Inland Revenue Office), Pennethome architect : this wing, 800 feet in lengrtb, will&oe
Wellington-street ; its south end was completed in 1853 : the detuls are copied Inei
the main bnilding; but the ornamental sculpture is very inferior. The central nasi
is composed of a pediment, the tympauum of which is filled with the Boyal anas,
surrounded with foliage, and the national emblems of the rose, thistle, and ahamrodr
in high relief. On the apex of the pediment is a sitting statue of Britannia* 7 foet in
hdght and 4 feet in width at the base ; at tbe extreme ends are sea-horsea. On the
lower range of the facade, standing on pedestals, there are odossal statues, 7 feet
6 inches high, emblematic of Glasgow, Edinburgh, London, Manchester, Dublin, and
BeUast ; and over the prindpal entrance a group, the centre of which contains s
medallion of Queen Victoria, surrounded by a wreath of laurel, and supported by r^
cumbent female figures of Fame and History. Somerset Houae ooven 12 acrea.
SOXTTS'SJSA SOUSE, TEE,
THREADNBEDLB-STBEET and Old Broad-street^ was the office of the Sonth-Ses
Company, originated by Harley, Earl of Oxford, and Sir John Blunt (** modi
iiyured Blunt"), in l7ll, for the ^Uscharge of nearly ten millions of public di^t ; for
which they were granted, in 1720, the monopoly of the trade to the South Seas and
the mines of Spanish America. In April, 1720, the Company's stock roae to 319/. per
cent. ; and early in June it had risen to 890^ per cent. The Directors then opened
fresh books for a subscription of 4,000,000/. at 1000/. per cent. Befi)re the expiratiaa
of the month, the subscription was at 200/. per cent premium, and the stodc at nearly
1100/. Newton, on being asked as to the oontinaanoe of the rising of the South-Sea
Stock, answered, that "he ooold not calcolate on the madness of the people.*' Prior
writes : " I am tired of politics, and lost in the South Sea. The roaring of the wares
and the madness of the people were justly put together." A journal of Aug. 6 says :
'* Our South-Sea equipage increases every day ; the City ladies buy South-Sea jewels^
bire South-Sea coaches^ and buy South'Sea estates." Vi^th the connivance of tlM
Government, the scheme reached this dimax, when the frauds of the IMrectors ^an*
spired : within three months tbe stock fell to 86/. per cent, and " the Sonth Sei-
Bubble" burst. {See ExcHAirGB Axlet, p. 838.)
80UTHWABK 739
The Sonth-Sea Bcheme was lampooned by Swift, asd satirized by Pope:
" Statesmen and patriots plied alike the stockfl.
Peeress and batler sbsred alike the box;
And Judges Jobbed, and bishops bit the town.
And ml^ty dukes packed cards for half-a-crown :
Britain was sunk in Incre's sordid charms."
Amone the Tictims was the poor maniac, "Tom of Ten Thoosand" (Eoitaoe Badgdl), who lost his
whole foilane and his reason. The Dake of Chandos lost 300,0001. Oar, the poet, possessed 20,0001.
South-Sea Stock, which he neglected to sell, and thus Ibst profit and prindpal. [Sm Hackay's Popular
J)ebuiomt.)
The Company has long oeosed to be a trading body : and in 1853-4 the Sonth-Sea
Stock, to the amount of ten millions, was converted or paid off. The original office
(formerly the Excise Office) was in Old Broad-street, and was known as " the Old
South-Sea House." The new building in Threadneedle-street had a Doric portico, and
incloses a quadrangle^ with a Tuscan colonnade and a fbuntdn : but it had latterly
** few or no traces of goers-in or comers-out— a desoUtion something like Baldutha's."
(C, Xaf»5.) The great hall for sales and the dining-room were hung with portraits of
governors and sub-governors, huge charts, &c. Underneath are vaulted cellars, wherdn
were once deposited dollars and pieces of eight. The premises, sold for 53,0002., are
now let in suites of chambers.
SOUTBrPTARK.
OF the etymology of this ancient suburb, Mr. Ralph Lindsay, F.SA^ has collected
ninet^'Meven authorUiei, commencing with Su'Spepke, during the Saxon Hep-
tarchy : but there is abundant proof that it was an extensive station and cemetery of
the Romans during an early period of thdr dominion in Britiun, attested by the fictile
Toses and pavements (portions of Roman houses) found in Southwark.
In Kovember, 1888, there were foond in digging the Ibondatlon of a wareboose. between Southwark*
square and Winchester^treet, in a space of about 100 feet by 40 feet, sixteen pits, each disclosing
Boman pottery above piles and puddled claj; and wben this was removed, shells, pebbles, and refuse,
such as b always seen along the water^s-edge, altho1^lrh tbe spot In question is now Aill 300 yards firom
the Thames shore. The pues were of oak and beech, with pointed hases, and masses of Kentish rag,
which Mr. Syer Cuming thinks these groups of piles once supported as lak§ dmtUingi, similar to those
formerly in Finsbury and Moorfields: each group with a kitchen-midden; latest food relics, oyster-
shells, may indicate the presence of Romans in the neighbourhood; and near the pUes was found a
Evement of red tesselhi, broken fletilia, piece of a Samian bowl, Ac., the remains, probably, of a
>man villa. The evidence of the ai;e of the piles is questionable; but these discoveries, made north
and south of the Thames, manifest how appropriate and descriptive was the British name of our ancient
netropoUa, .^ Din, the lake-town.— 2Voe. Britith Ardkaolojfteal AjuociaUcm,
It was embanked, contemporaneously with the three great Roman roads shown to
bave terminated in St. George's Fields, and to have communicated with the City by a
irajectut, or ferry, over the Thames to Dowgate, from Stoney-street, Bankside ; and
another to tbe Tower, or Arx JPalaHna, fhnn Stoney-lane, Tooley-street. To its
fortification may be traced the Saxon name, Sudwerche, the south work of London.
It is called Surder-virke in a Danish account of a battle fought here by King Olaf in
1008 ; and Suih-noeorce in the narrative of Earl Grodwin's attack in 1052, when here
was a wooden bridge. Southwark was burnt by William the Conqueror. In Domes-
day-book the Bishop of Baieux hath here one monastery (Bermondsey), and one haven
(St. Saviour's dock). On coins of William I. we find Svethewer, or Svetherh; on
pennies of William II., Svthevk, Svthewi, and Svthewrs and about 1086, the annual
revenue derived from it was only 162. In 1S27, upon the complaint that Southwark
was the refuge of felons and thieves, Edward III. sold the viU or town to the citizens
of London, — ^the king still being lord of the manor, and appointing the bailiff.
Bdward IV. granted the citizens an annual Fur ; by charter of Edward VL, the full
<x>ntrol of Southwark was vested in the citizens ; and by Act of Common Coundl,
1550, was constituted a ward of the City, by the name of Bridge Without, — ^the
first alderman of which was Sir John AylifTe, 1551. Southwark has sent members to
parliament since temp. Edward I. It was formerly fiunous for its artists in ghiss,
who, temp, Henry VIII., glazed the windows of King's College Chapel, Cambridge.
On July 1, 1450, Jack Cade arrived in Southwark; and on Feb. 8, 1554, Sir
Thomas Wyat and tbe " Kentyshemen" appeared herej both, probably, in St. George's
Helcls.
8b2
740 . CURIOSITIES OF LONDON.
* At tbit time wm Wyat entered into Kent-iteeet, end eo by Seinct Georg«'s Chnrdi iato Sostb-
wirke. HUnaelfe and pert of his oompanye cam in goode amy down BaraQeBey-atrate." — Tha Cknndt
^ Qm«i Jom, Qff*n JVary* ^
In i642, Sonthwark was defended by a fort with foor half bolwarksy at the lh§
and Duck, St. George's Fields ; a large fort with four bolwarkai, near the eid of
Blaclrman-street ; and a redoubt with foor flanks, near the Lock Hospital, Kecu
•treet. The ancient town, however, was bat a. small portion of what we know as t^
Borough, and was the Qoildable Manor, extending firom St. Mary Ov&j*b Dock we3^
ward to Hay's-Iane ; Tooley-8troet» eastward; south as fiur as the Town-hall, tbenoe to
Counter-street and St. Mary Overy's Dock. The other porttona — ^viz., the Klng'^
Manor and the Great Liberty Manor, were not part of the Boroogb until tbey vee
purchased by the Corporation of London from King Edward VL ; the Gotpontiaa
being the Lords.
Sonthwark was flrat called the Borouffh in the eighteenth centnrj ; it occnpies aa
area nearly equal to that of the City of London itself. The principal street, bom tbd
■oath end of Old London Bridge to St. Margaret's HiU, was formerly called Loaff Soi^l-
»ari (Howell's Londinopolis), afterwards High-street, but is now Weliinfft<m^reei ;
thence 8t. Mar^arefs Hills and next Si^h'Hreet, Blackman-Hreei^ and Nemfinfftc*
Causeway. The old High-street had many picturesque gabled booses in the present
centary,thelastof which were removed fortheapproach to New London Bridge (aeep.450).
On the east side remain several old inns (eee p. 466) ; one of the taverns on the west scfe
was the Thtmble-down-Dick, in our time painted as a drunken toper, but originally a
caricature of the downfall of Richard Cromwell, " the new Ptotector." Nearly opposte
the east end of St. Saviour's Chnrch and tower, and the Lady-chapel, was In^t in
1854 a dock-tower, resembling a market-cross, of Gbthic design, with a canopied
niche for a statue of the great Duke of Wellington. Adjoining the RtuUDu^ Siaiiom,
was 81, Olav^e School, taken down in 1849 {see p. 726). Here also was St. Thongs
Hospital, described at p. 435. Toole^'Hreet (eastward of London Bridge) is oormpted
from St. Olave's, or St. OlafiTs, street. Here were the Bridge Mouse and Yard^ fat
the stowage of materials for the repairs of London Bridge; besides com granaries,
pnblic ovens, and a public brew-house; the site is now Cotton's Wharf and Hay's
Wharf. The site of the Borough Compter, a prison, in Mill-lane, was formerly oocopied
by the Inn of the Abbot of Battle, its mill, &c
Southwark possessed two Mints for coinage, described at pages 508 and 509 : the
andent mint is thought to have stood apon the site of the house of the Prior of Lewes,
in Carter-lane, nearly opposite St. Olave's Church, in Tooley-street. (See Crypts,
p. 802.) Here too was "the Abbot's Inn of St. Augustine" (deed 1280), afterwards
belonging to the St. Leger family : and thence called Sellinger (t.«. St. Leger's), noir
Chamberlain's, Wharf. Next was the Bridge-house ; and then, eastward, the Inn of
the Abbot of Battle ; and Battle-bridge, over a water-course pertaining to the Abbey.
The Manor of the Maze, Sir John Buroettor's, temp, Henry YI., is kept in memory
by Maze-lane and Maze-pond ; and upon the site of '* St. 'Hiomas's Tents" the Pro-
testant refugees of the Palatinate in G^ermany " pitched their tents" in the reign of
Queen Anne. The Maze was built upon in Aubrey's time^ l7th century.
BCorselgdown extends firom Tooley-street to Dockhead : it was ten^. Elizabeth, a
grazing-field (Horseydowne.) Here was rebuilt^ upon a handsome scale, St. Olave's
Grammar-school for 600 boys {see p. 726.)
** This fltreetk Honelydown. (as I was told by a sober oonnsellor-st-Iaw, and who said he had it froia
an old record,) was lo called, for that the water, formerly ovorflowing it, was so eflfectoaUy drawn <jS,
that the place became a plain green field, where honet and other cattle need to pastors and be down,
before the street was buflt."— ^To^ton, 1708.
On May 11, 18H Hr. G. B. Comer, F.8A., oommxmicatcd to the Society (tf Antignaiies Notices of a
Drawing in the Society's possession, being s copy of a picture at Hatfield Hooseb representing aJSU on
Honelydown ; and of a plan of Horselydown in 1544^ belonging to the goTemors of St. Ohrre's and St.
John's Grammar-Bchool. The picture shows a view of the Tower of London in the distance. The fore^
aronnd Is ooenpied by holiday groups ; cooks are preparing a large repast at a kitchen ; and in the mai>
cUstance are the stocks with a solituy tenant Underneath a tree are two flffures, supposed to repic^eut
Ben JoiiBon and Shakspeare, who sre not unlikely to have been present at this/4f«. To Mr. Conwr ve
are indebted for many valuable illustrations of the antiquities oiSouthwuk.
The Priory of St, Mary Overie, and Church of St, Saviour, are described at
SOUTHWAEK 741
pp. 199-202 : in the Cotton Collection is a book which formerly belonged to a Prior.
The chnrch was approached from High-street by " Cluun Gate" (the Priory gates).
The restoration of the tower and choir, aad the Lady Chapel, by Oeorve GwUt, F^.A., attest Mr.
Qwilf B Bcrapiiloiis accuracy in following the moaldinga and detail of the former design, and ttie oars
and attention which he has bestowed on the restoration of those parts which had been entirely lost i
of this the gabies are instances. A beantiftil drawing of the choir, by the architect's eldest son, George
Gwilty hangs fai the restxy : for which this young and promising areniteot was presented with 100 guineas.
SaiTolk House, which is prominent in the foreground of Wyngrerde*s view, was
sumptuously built, almost directly over against St Qeorge's Church, by Charles Brandon
(Duke of Suffolk) early in the reign of Henry VIII. ; but coming into the king's
hands, it became Southwark Plaoe^ and a Mint of Coinage, as described in p. 669.
After the death of King Henry VIII., Southwark Place became neglected. Edward
VI. occasionally viidted it, and feasted here the Lord Mayor and Sheril&. Queen
Mary granted Southwark Place to Nicholas Heath, Archbishop of York, as a recom-
pense for York House at Westminster. The Archbishop disliking the situation of
Suffolk FLicc, sold the buildings, and the estate. The purchasers had most of the
buildings taken down, sold the materials, and a number of small houses were erected
on the site. That part of the building left standiug was purchased by Alderman
Broomfield, Lord Mayor, whose son marrying the daughter of Thomas Lant, Esq.,
the estate devolved to the Lant family. Thus, Suffolk -street, Lant-street» the
Mint, and other places in Southwark obtained their names from the owners or occn-
piers of Suffolk-place, and its extensive park. ** Brandonne's Place, in Sonthwerke,"
is mentioned in Sir John Howard's Expenses under the year 1465. One of the last
of the barbers who let blood, and drew teeth, was Middleditch, of Great Suffolk-street,
Southwark, in whose shop-window were displayed heaps of drawn teeth, and at his
door the barber's pole.
Southwark is a Shakspearean locality. The site of the Globe Theatre is believed
to be included in that of Barclay and Perkins's Brewery. All vestiges of times as
old as Shakspeare and the playhouses there seem to have vanished, except a house
which some think may be part of the the original FcUeon Tavern. This is situated
not far from Pellatf s Falcon Glass-works. The register of the burials in St. Mary Overie's,
1607, has " Edmund Shakspeure, the Poef s brother, player, in the church." Gerard
Johnson, the sculptor of Shakspeare's bust on his tomb, in the church, at Stratford-on-
Avon, lived in St. Thomas Apostle's parish, not far from the Globe, and he must often
have seen Shakspeare, as Dugdale assures ns. In the Vestry-room of St. Saviour's
church long hung a presumed portrait of Shakspeare, which is now in the collection of
pictures at the Foundling Hospital.
MoHiague-cloee, adjoining St. Saviour's Church, was the cloister of the monastery i
and, after the Dissolution, appertained to the mansion built by Sir Anthony Browne
(Viscount Montague), who obUuneda grant of the site of the Priory of St. Mary Overie,
and the messuagei^ wharfs, shops, &c ; and in St. Mary Ovary's Dock was situated the
Priory milL
Bankeide, "the Bonk'* (Thames-bank in Domesday-book), extends from near St,
Saviour's Church to Blackfriars-bridge. Here were two " Beare-gardens, places wherein
were kept beares, bulls, and other beasts, to be bayted; as also mastives, in several
kenleay nourished to bayt them" {Stow), Here Edward Alleyn, the founder of Dulwich
College, kept the Bear-garden, temp. Elizabeth and James I. ; but " His Miyesty's
Bear-garden" was removed to Hockley-in-the-Hole^ Clerkenwell, in 1686-7. Here
also were the Globe, the Rose, the Hope, and the Swan Theatres {eee Thsatbss).
The Stewohonses were put down by sound of trumpet, by Henry VIII. Before the
Kestoration the theatres had disappeared, and Bankside became the abode of dyers, for
*< the oonvenieney of the water." Here are Roee AUejf and Qlohe Alley, from the old
theatres. Pike Garden is named in a parliamentary survey of 1640 as " late parcel
of the possessions of Charles Stuart> late king of England ;" and in another survey,
made in 1652, occurs " the late king's barge-house on the Bankude." {See also p. 31.)
Winchetter Souse, or Palace, founded about 1107, by Bishop Walter Giffiurd, with
its court* offices, and water-stairs, occupied great part of the "Bank;" and had, on the
742 0UBI0SITIE8 OF LOKDON.
toatb, gardenB, statues^ fimntauia, and a spadoos park : henoe Parh-wireti, Tbe de-
oaying palace was let as warehooMa and whaHa; and tbe venerable remuna of itt gteas
bi^, witb a grand drcnlar gable- window, of rare traoery, were laid open by a fite ia
Angost, 1814. The Vinegar-works of Messrs. Fbtt are upon a part of the park site, aai
are held of tbe Me of Winchester. A<^oining was BochesUr Mtnue, the reakknoe d
the Bishops of Rochester : it stood on the north side of the Borough Market-place, psn
of which was Rochester-yard ; and Rochester-street still exists. This estate, andentlr
called Qrimes Croft, was granted by William, second Earl of Warren, to the mooks ni
Rochester, by placing his knife upon the altar of St. Andrew. Rochester House was
taken down in the year 1604.
Deadman't-plaee, west of the Market, is said to be oornipted from I>e6mond-p]ace,
where dwelt the Earl of Desmond : here are the College founded by Thomas Core,
saddler to Edward YI., Mary, and Elinbeth ; almshonses built by Edward Alleyn* 1616^
and other almshonses.
Botiikwarh 7Ut«iu.— In the Bssnfoy Oolleetion, sft GidldhBl], an *flM Boi#b Head," 164» (bctMB
Vot. 35 and 26, Hlgh-atreei) : It ww lesMd to the family of the author of ^e ueacnt toIobml and «m
sublet in tcnementi, as *' Boar's-H6ad-coai\" taken down in 1830. Next also u a ** Dogg and Drcke*
token. 1051 (St. George's Fields) : "the Greene Man/' 1661 (which remains in Blackman-street) ; *t«
Boll Head TaTemV 1687, nMntkned by Kdward All^yn, founder of Dolwich CoUegc. as om of ha
raaorts { " Duke of Hufblk's Head," 1669 ; and the ** Swan with Two Necks."
Sonthwark and the adjacent districts are noted for their mannfisctiires : as rope-
walks and tan-pits at Bermoodaey; barge and boat-bnilden^ sawyers and timber-
merehants» at Rotherhithe; also^ hat making, brewing, vinegar-yaida, and dJataHeria^
glass-honaes, potteries, and soap and candle works.
The High-street is erossed nearly oppodte St. SaTiour's chnrch by an ugly railway
bridge, and the Una trends thence, anaoonda^like, along the south bank of the Thames
which it croBMS by three bridgeB. In the railway works were demolished aome Eliia-
bethan honses in Stoney-street, dose to the palaces of the Bishops of Rochester and
Winchester, between the bear-gardens of Bankside and the Clink Prison, duefly oeca-
pied by the Ucensed keepers of booses of infamous resort^ from the twelfUi till the six-
teenth century, when that nuisance was at length suppresKd by law. Almost paraM
extends Strntknark-gtrtet, flanked with groups of lofty warehouses, banking-houses
Hop Exchange^ See, ; eastward, the street is continued into Bermondsey and Bother-
bithe, and is a noble improvement. A aubwojf* is formed in the centre ctf the roadr
and is thus described :^
This snbway is an arched pasaan. 12 ft. wide and nearly 7 ft. high, from which are tide paaa^ee
leading to oeHars built beneath the rootwalks. In the snbway the ^, water-mains, and teMfgrapb*
wires are laid, the side passages conrering the two former necessaries direct into the cellars, a^
thence Into the honses themselTes. The oqjeot of this new work is, of course, to do away with tlie ni
oanaed by the stoppage of thoroogh&res to repair a gas or water main. This subway is wide and high
enough to allow ot any repairs or this kind being carried on. The drains from the honses are fonned of
strong stoneware pipes, passing at a rather steep incline beneath the snbway into the main eewer, wiiich
is placed below the noor of the passage in the centre, but not so deep but that It can inataotfy be opened
aces. Kt
liar repairs or removal of stoppages. fiTeiy part of the subway is Tentilated in the moet perfect i
The Southwark arms are, Arg., a rose displayed. The Bridge-house mark ia nsuallyy
but erroneously, used to de^gnate Southwark, because the manors form part of the
Bridge-house estates. That mark is, Azure, an annulet ensigned with a cross pat^ or,
interlaced with a saltire conjoined in base, of the second. The City juris^ctsoo, ac-
cording to the inscription upon the boundary-stone at the western extremity of Beth-
lehem Hospital wall, and other parts of the libertaes, extends northward to the Thames
and eastward to St. Thomas-a- Watering in the Kent-road ; comprehending the parishes
of St. Oeorge, St. Saviour (exdosive of the Clink Liberty), St Thomas, St. OUive, and
St. John. Southwark occupies an area of 590 acres ; the Qty of London 600 acres.
At No. 6, Blackman-street, Sir Jame.' South (eldest son of a dispensing chemist in
the High-street) made several valuable astronomical observations. {See KsKsiHGToa;
p. 488.) At No. 104, High-street, sign of the Golden Key (of which a Token exists]^
lived Mr. Elliotson, chemist and druggist, father of John Klliotson, M.D., F.RJS.
The historic Inns of Southwark are described at p. 456.
* BuhwamB, or passages beneath the streets of the metropolis, were advocated in 18SB^ by Mr.
Wllliamfi, of liirchln-lane, in a bulky octavo volume. In 1859, ibis great improvement was commenosd
by the Board of Works under the new street leading from Cranboum-street to Covant-garden,
8PITALFIELD8. 743
SOUTHWARK FAIR,
ANCIENTLT called "Onr Lady Faire in Soathwark/' was granted by Edward YI.,
in 1560, when the som of 6472. 2b, \d, was paid by the Corporation of London for
the two manoTB and divers lands and tenements. The Fair, held on September 7th,
8th, and 9th, was opened by the Lord Mayor and Sherifis riding to St. Magnns' Church
after dinner, at two o'clock in the afternoon : the former vested with his collar of SS.»
withoat his hood ; and all dressed in their scarlet gowns, lined, without their cloaks.
They were attended by the Sword-bearer, wearing his embroidered cap, and carrying
"the pearl sword;" and at the church were met by the aldermen, all of whom, after
evening prayer, rode over the bridge in procesnon, passed through the Fair, and con*
tinned either to St. George's Churdi, Newing^n Bridge, or to the stones pointing out
the City liberties at St. Thomas-a- Watering. Th^ then returned over the bridge, or
to the Bridge House, where a banquet was provided, when the aldermen took leave of
the Lord Mayor ; and all parties being returned home, the bridge-masters gave a supper
to the Lord Mayor's officers. Sheriff Hoare thus describes the ceremony in 1741 : On
the 8tb of September the SherifEs wiuted on the Lord Mayor in procession, ** the City
music going before, to proclaim 8<mthmark Fairy as it is commonly called ; although
the ceremony is no more than our going in our coaches through the Borough, and
turning round by St. George's Church, back again to the Bridge House ; and this is to
rignify the licence to begfin the Fair." " On this day the Sword-bearer wears a fine
embroidered eop, said to have been worked and presented to the City by a monastery."
Evelyn and Pepys describe the Fair. Jacob Hall was one of its fiunous rope-dancers ;
and early in the last century, Crawley's puppet-show of the Creation, " with the addi-
tion of Noah's Flood," Squire and Sir John Spendall; Dancing Dugs, and " the Ball of
Little Dogi^" danced before Queen Anne ; were Southwark Fair sights. Hogarth, in
his plate of the Fair, shows Figg the prize-fighter, and Cadman the rope-flyer. In
1743 the Fair continued firorteeu days, and extended to the Ifint : an attempt was
then made to put down the shows, but the Fair was not finally suppressed until 1763 :
the booth-keepers used to collect money here for Marshalsea prisoners.
8FITALFIFLDS
FCLUDES large portions of Bethnal-green, Shoreditch, Whitochapel, and Mile-end
New- town. Fart of the site was anciently Loletworth, a cemetery of Boman Lon-
don, in breaking up which, *' fbr day to make brick," about 1576, were found several
urns full of ashes and burnt bones, and copper coins of Claudius, Vespasian, Nero, Anto-
ninus Flnsi Tngan, &c. ; also fragments of Roman Pottery and glass. (See Stow, p. 64.)
At the Mune time were found some stone coffins (British or Saxon), which are preserved
in the vaults of Christchurch.
Spitalfields is named from its having been the site and property of the Priory and
Hospital of St. Mary Spittle without Bishopsgate, founded in 1197, by Walter Brune,
citizen of London, and Bosia his wife, for Augustine canons ; at the Dissolution in
1534 it had 180 beds fbr the receipt of the poor of charity. Bagford, in Leland's Col'
lectanea, mentions the priory, then standing, strongly built of timber, with a turret at
one angle : its ruins were discovered early in the last century north of Spital-sqnare.
In one of the houses built here lived the celebrated Lord BoUngbroke. At the north-
east comer of Spital-square was placed the Pulpit-cross^ whence were preached, in the
open air, the S^ntal Sermons* (m0 p. 167) : the pulpit was destroyed in the CivU Wars.
In the Map executed in the reign of Elizabeth, the Spittle fields are at the north-east
extremity of London, with only a few houses on the site of the Spital. The map of a
century later shows a square field bounded with houses, with the old Artillery Ground
on the west, which was let by the last prior to the Artillery Company, and is now
the site of ArtiOlevy-street. «' A Faire in Spittlefields" is described in a scarce pamphlet
* Hatton rdatss of a Spital-sennon:— " In 1632, three brottien, named Wineopc, were called from
nmote plaoea, and preadhed on the three sermon-days, agreeing so nicely In their subject, that the
Moond ooatisMd what the flist began, sad the third brooght it to a oondasian.**
7U CURIOSITIES OF LONDON.
In the British Moseam, whereat WOliam Lilly annoanoeB his astrological nres kt
sale ; and Nicholas Culpepper, the herbalist, says :
« Bid moiMT. tbo' bot little :
For night oomea on, and we must leave the Spittle.**
Culpepper occupied a house then in the fields, and subsequently a piablic-honae at iht
corner of Red-Lion-court. Hard by the prioiy site is Pfttemoster-row, where, and dx
in Patemoeter-row, St. Paul's (pee p. 668), some antiquaries maintain, Tarlton, Uj£
player at the Curtain Theatre, " kept an ordinary in these pleasant fields.'
»»
An Order In Council, 6th ICarah, 1660, states, the inhabitsote of the pleanat loealiU of Spitil&^s
petitioned the Council to restrain certain persons ftrom digging esrth, end making aiidrbniiiing tn^u
m these fields, which wonld not only render them "rerr noisome," bat " pr^udice the ctoathes whkt
are nsaslly dnred in two Urge gionnds s4J07ning, and the rioh stoft of olTeca ooloiizs whieh are mm
in the same plsoe, by altering and changing theu colours," ftc.
Bethnal-green and Spitalfields were grassy open spaces in the last oentory; bss
Spital-square, at the south-cast comer, has been the heart of the nlk district since ** the
poor Protestant strangers, Walloons and French," driven from France by the rerocatks
of the Edict of Nantes, settled here, and thus founded the dlk-mannfactnre in England;
introducing the weaving of lustrings, alamodes, brocades, satins, padaasoya, docaf^
and bkck velvets : in 1713 it was stated that silks, gold and silver stuflfa, and ribbcfs.
were made here as good as those of French fabric; and that black silk for hoods acd
scarft was made annually worth 800,0002. Tapestries and hangings of the interiors cf
English houses were manufiictured in Spitalfields, even before the settlement of tbg
French refugees in that district. In the Queen's Bedchamber at Wlndaor Oastle was
a bed of state, of rich flowered velvet, made at Spitalfields in the reign of Qaeen Acse.
About this time, bedchambers were hung with tapestry made in Spitalfields, where aa
artist, named Boyston, excelled in tapestries of harvest-fields and other mralities. Alts'
the ^Uaoontinuance of the use of tapestry, the skill of the weavers was confined mainly to
the manufacture of silks and velvets. Duriug the reigns of Anne, €leorge L and IL,
the Spitalfields weavers greatly increased: in 1832, 60,000 persona were entirely
dependent on the ailk-manufiicture ; and the looms varied from 14^000 to 17,000. Of
these, great numbers are often unemployed ; and the distribution of funds raised fcr
their relief has attracted to Spitalfields a larg^ number of poor persons, and thut
pauperized the district. The earnings of weavers in 1854 did not exceed 10s. per
week, working from 14 to 16 hours a day : the weaving is either the richest or the
thinnest and poorest. In 1867, the Rev. Isaac Taylor, kicnmbent of St. Matthias', in
a terrible and touching picture of the condition of his parish, stated :
** The grest difficnlty which confronts ns is th& dead level of excessive poyerty. A skilfnl wotfanazi,
making costly reWets or rich silks, and labooring from 18 to 16 hoors a daj, will ouIt earn, on an Kwengt,
aboat 12«. a week. There are many who do not earn above 7«. or 8s. ; and the labour required to pun
tiiese miserable wages is great and exoesslTe. To make a single inch of vdvet, the shuttle has to be thruwv
180 times, 180 times the treadles have to be worked. 00 times the wire has to be inserted, 60 times to
he withdrawn, 00 times the knife has to be goided along the whole breadth of the work, and flO tioMS
ihB pressore ct the chest has to be exerted on a heavj beaoL which is nsed to compress the work. ftO
^tfnct operations are thos required to mske one single inch of velvet, the average payment tat making
which is Id. The women, whose strength does not enable them to move so heavy a beam with the
chest, are employed in making velTctecus^ chenilles, silk and cotton trimmings, and bead trinumiucf*
They earn about one-third the wages of the men. For Ikney braid the payment is one halfpenny a yard.
Kvei) at these starvation wages work is Terr scarce ; the men are often for weeks tosettier out of em]^,
or, ss it is termed by a wretched moekeiy, 'at play.' Yet these poor people^ with all the burden of thar
poverty, are wcmdenhlly uncomplaining and self-reliant"
The weavers are prindpally English, and of EngUsh origin ; but the manufacturers
or masters are of French extraction ; and the Ouillebauds, the Deeormeaux, the Chabots,
the Turqnands, the Meroerons, and the Chanvets, trace their connexion with the
refugees of 1685. Many translated their names into English, by which the dd
fiunilies may still be known: thus, the Lemaitres called themselves Masters; the
Leroys, King; the Tonneliers, Cooper; the Lcrjeunes, Toung; the LeblancB, White;
the Lenoirs, Black ; the Loiseaus, Bird. Many of the weavers still cherish proud
traditions of their ancestry ; though now, perhaps, only dad in rags, they bear the old
historic names of France — names of distinguished generals and statesmen ; names
such as Yendome, Ney, Racine, De Foe, La Fontaine, Dupin, Bois, Le Bean, Auvacbc^
Fontaiueau, and Montier.
SPBINQ GARDENS. 745
The weavers' houses, built in narrow streets, have wide latticed windows in the
upper stories, which light the work-room. Upon the roofs are bird-traps and other
bird-catching contrivances; for the weavers supply London with singing-birds, as
linnets, woodlarks, goldfinches^ greenfinches, and chaffinches ; and many, in October and
March, get their livelihood by systematic bird-catching; matches of singing or "jerk-
ing " call-birds are determined by the homing of an inch of candle.
Spitalfields weavers have extremely small heads, 6^, 6{, and 6f inches being the
prevailing widths ; and the same fact is observable in Coventry ; the medium size of
the male head in £ngland is 7 inches. The weavers' practice of tinging at their loomg
was doubtless brought with them from the Continent, as was the custom of woollen-
weavers.
** I woald I were a weaver, I ooold linff all manner of songs."— Jb2«&l#, in -Hmrv IV. Part I. act ii«
" He got hie oold with sitting up lat^ and singing catcoes with doukWQitkon/^—CHbbard, in Ben
Jonson'a SOtni Woman, act iii. so. 4.
Spitalfields was a hamlet of Stepney until 1729, when it was made a district parish,
and Christchurch was consecrated (see p. 157). Among the parochial charities is " cat
and dog money," an eccentric bequest to be paid on the death of certain pet cats and
dogs : a sickening bequest in such a locality of poverty and starvation.
The Sisters of Chtwriiy have been working in these districts since the winter of
1854 : they visit an extent of several miles fA habitations of the poor, tending, washing
them, and nursing them, and supplying them with warm food, clothes, and other things
necessary to sickness ; and these ministering ang^ nurse the sick, who cannot be re-
moved to hospitals, in their own houses.
In Criapin-streei is the Gbvernment School of Design, where are awarded prizes for
designs for fiibrics, drawing and painting from nature, crayon-drawing, &c. Spitalfields
Market is mentioned by Uatton, in 1708, as fine for " flesh, fowl, and roots." In the
district are Victobia Pajlk (see p. 655), and the dig Consumption SospitaL
In Crispin-street, nntO 1845, the MaiksmoUeal SocUijf occupied large apartments, for their philo-
Bophical instruments and library of 9000 volumes. The iSocietT, which also cultivated electricity, was
established in 1717, ftnd met at the Monmoutk't Sead in Monmouth-street, until 1726, whoi they
removed to the WhiU Hone Tavern, in Wheeler-street ; from thence, in 1736, to Ben Joneon'e Head, in
Pelham-street ; and next to Crispin-street. The members were chiefly tradesmen and artisans; among
those of higher rank were Canton, DoUond, Thomas Simpson, and Crossley. The Society lent their
instruments (air-pumpsu reflecting telescopes, reflecting microscopes, electrical machines, snrveyii^
instruments, fte.), with t>ook8 for the use or them, on the borrowers giving a note of hand for the value
thereof. The number of members was not to exceed the square of seven, except such as were abroad or
in the country ; but this was increased to the squares of eif ht and nine. The members met on Saturday
evenings : each present was to employ himself in some mathematical exercise, or forfeit one penny ; and
if he refused to answer a question asaed by another in mathematics, he was to forfeit twopence. The
Society long cherished a taste for exact science; but in 1846, when on the point of dissolution, the few
remaining members made over their books, records, and memorials to the Koyal Astrcmomical Sodety,
of which these members were elected fellows.— Abridged flrom Weld's RieUny of the BogoL Sodiehf^
vol. i. pp. 467-8. At Bithnal-green, in 1648, Star Balthazar Gerbier established "The Academy for
Foreign Languages, and all Noble Sotenoes and Ezaroises.'*
SPRING GARDRN,
ORIGINALLY an appnrtenance to the palace of Whitehall, and situate on the
north-western verge of St. James's Park, is named frt>m its water-spring or
fountain, set playing by the spectator trea^Ung upon its hidden machinery — an eccen-
tricity of the Elizabethan garden. Spring Garden, by a patent which is extant, in
1630 was made a bowling-green by command of Charles I. " There was kept in it an
Drdinary of six shillings a meal (when the King's proclamation allows but two else-
where) j continual bibbing and drinking wine all day under the trees ; two or three
quarrels every week. It was gprown scandalous and insufferable : liesides, my Lord
Dlgby being reprehended fbr striking in the King's garden, he said he took it for a
common bowling-place, where all paid money for their coming in." — {Mr, Octrrard to
Lord Strafford.)
In 1634 Spring Garden was put down by the King's command, and ordered to be
icreafter no common bowling- place, lliis led to the opening of " a New Spring Gar-
len" (Shaver's Hall), by a gentleman-barber, a servant of the lord chamberlain's.
The old garden was, however, re-opened ; for 13th June, 1649, says Evelyn, " I treated
746 0UBI08ITIE8 OF LONDON.
diren lidifli of mj relations in Spring Qardens :" bat 10th May, 1654, be neords tk
CromweU and bis partisans had shot up and seised on Spring Qsidetia, " w*^ tiH spv
had been y* nsoal rendesroos for the kdys and gallants at this seasoa."
Spring Garden was, however, onoe more re^ypened ; foe, in A Ckaraeter <if JSi^lsMt
1669, it is described as
* Tbe Indosore notdiMMTMsble, tat tbs solemiuieHof the grore, the warbling of the I)iidi.i&d vi
openi into the epsdoae wslka at St. Jamee'e. .... It if uaiu} to find some of the jwom eois?cf
here till midnight : and the thickets of the garden eeem to be oontrived to all advaotagei of P^^'^
after thej hare refireahod with the ooUation, which ia here eeldom omitted, at a certain cahaict a s
middle of this paradiae, when the fbrbidden fttdta are oertahi trifling tazts, neafa toBigiiei^«hs«
meata, and had Bheniah."
" The New Spring Garden"* at Lambeth (afterwards Vaaxhall) was floariflhiog k
1661-8 ; when tbe ground at Charing Cross was built upon, as " Inner Spring Gsrda'
and " Outer Spring Garden." Buckingbam-oonrt is named from the Diohe cf Bnd-
ingbam, one of the rakish frequenters of Spring Garden ; and apon the site of Drsa-
mond's banking-house was "Lockefs Ordinary, a house of entertainment vaA
frequented b j gentry," and a relic of the Spring Garden gaiety :
** For Lockef s atands where gardena onoe did spring.**
Dr. Kii^r's AH tfCookgrf, 17O0L
In Outer Spring Garden lived, 1661. Sir PhiKp Warwick, author of tiie Jfc«w
which bear his name : " Warwick-ttreei, acyoining, was, X l^lieve, named after hfat
(Cunningham.) Here, too, Uved Philip, Earl of Chesteraeld, 1667-1670. Fiisa
Bupert resided here ftom 1674 to his death :
" 1682, Not. S9.— Died of s fever and plenris7» at his honae in the Spring Garden, finperf, Pnaa
Palatbie of the Bhine, &C., in the 6Srd year of hia age."— Jfi«tofia«'« emJt, 3rd edit. IffiS.
Sir Edward Hungerford lived here in 1631, after he had parted with his estate &
the nte of S.ungefford Market,
Milton, when first appointed Latin secretary, lodged at one Thomson's, at Cbann;
Cross, opening into the Spring Garden. Here the witty andbeautifhl dran^^ ^^
CentUvre, died, December 1, 1723, at the bouse of her third husband, Joseph CentJin«.
«« Yeoman of the Mouth" (head cook) to Queen Anne. CoUey Cibber fived •* near the
Bull-head Tavern, in Old Spring Garden," from l7ll to 1714. George Csimii^ s
1800, resided at No. 13, right-hand comer at Cockspur-street.
Spring Garden was formerly noted for its sights : tbe Incorporated Soctetr cf
Artists exhibited here ; here, in 1806, at Wigley's Rooms, were shown Serrs's I^
lama of Boulogne ; foreign cities and sea-pieces ; also Maillardefs automatic ^p^
including a harpsichord-playw, a rope-dancer, and a ung^g-bird. Here abo ^
ezlubited Marshall's Perietrephh Panorama of the Battle of Waterloo^ wfaicb m
spectators viewed turning round. »
Berkeley House, on the right as you enter by the Spring-garden-gate, St. Jvosi
Park, tbe mansion of the Berkeley fiunily, was taken down in 1862, and npoQ ^
ate has been erected the chief office of the Metropolitan Board of Works, of poor^
pretentious design.
8QUASSS.
THE garden-spaces or planted Squares are the most recreatiye featara of ^
metropolis ; in comparison with which the piazze, plazae, and places of contin^^
cities are wayworn and dusty areas, with none of the refresbdng beauty of a ganisD of
green field x
•Foimtftina and trees onr wearied pride do pleaa^
Even in the midst of gilded palaces ;
And in onr towns the proapect givea delight.
Which opens ronnd tfa« country to onr dght"
Sprat, quoted in Wren's JVaorf*'**
Yet tbe migority of the London Squares are tbe growth of the last oentmy; ^^
• Named from the Garden at Charing Cross, as we do not trace any "water-spring" s*"^*"^^
JohnHawkina says:— "Sir Samuel Morland having planted the large garden with states; °^^^^
laid it oot in shady walks, it obtained the name of Spring Gardens. Then was likswiae s ' >«« °P^
Ctaiden' at Pimlioo, the name having been applied to a poblio garden generally.**
8QUAEE8. 747
of the western Squares existed before 1770; their sites being then mostly sheep-walks,
paddocks, and kitchen-gardens. It was at first attempted to name squares *' quad-
rates :" in 1732 Maitland wrote, "the stately quadrate denominated King-square, bat
vulgarly Sobo-square ;" and the phrase is retained in Maitland's edition of 1756.
Bbdpobd Squase, which appears in Harwood's Map, 1799, was formerly "St.
Giles's ruins." The centre house on the east side used to be the official residence of
the Lord Chancellor. Iiord Loughborough liyed there, and at the time of the Corn-
law Riots it was occupied by Lord Eldon. The mob made an attack on the house at
night, when Lord and Lady Eldon escaped over the back wall into the British Museum
Gardens, and took refuge in the guard-house. Here it was that the Prince of Wales
called upon the Chancellor, and got firom him, as he lay in bed with gout, a vacant
Mastership in Chancery for the Prince's fiiend, Jekyll. The keystone over the en-
trance doorway of some of the houses displays a very fine made head. (Builder,
'So. 651.) Some of the houses were designed by Sir William Chambers.
Belobaye, Chxsteb, and Eaton Sqtjabes, named from their ground-landlord, the
Marquis of Westminster, are noticed at p. 37 : the centres of the first and third
were nursery-grounds. At No. 19, Chester-square died, in 1852, Dr. Mantell, F.R.S.»
the eminent g^logist.
Bebesusy Squabe, built 1698, is named from Berkeley House, which occupied the
site of Devonshire House. On the south side of this square is Lansdowue House (tee
p. 551) : the beehive upon the gate-piers is one of the family crests. At No. 11 died
Horace Walpole in 1797. No. 44, built by Kent, has a noble staircase and saloon.
At No. 45 Lord Clive destroyed himself in 1774. A few link*extingnishers remiun
flanking doorways : the trees in the centre are old and picturesque : here was formerly
an equestrian statue of George III.
Bloousbxtby, first named Southampton, Sqitabe, from Southampton House upon
its north nde, was built by the Earl of Southampton, whose daughter. Lady Badiel
Russell, dates her Letters from here. Evelyn, in 1665, notes it as " a noble square or
piazza, a little towne," with " good aire." The site formerly constituted the manor of
Lomesbuiy, in which, according to Huglison, the kings of England anciently had their
stables until removed to the Mews, near Charing-croas. Coming into the hands of
the Russell family, by marriage with the Earl of Southampton, it was called first
Southampton-square, and then Bloomsbury-square. Bedford House has been ascribed
to Inigo Jones, but it would seem erroneously. It was built a few years after his
death. Thornhill's copies of Bafiaelle's Cartoons were in one of the wing^ of thi»
house. It was sold by auction in the year 1800, and immediately pulled down. Pope
alludes to this once fashionable quarter of the toivn :—
"In Palace-yard, at nine, yoa'Il find me there,
At ten, for certain, air, in BloomaburyHsquare."
The Grand Duke Cosmo %vas taken to see Bloomsbury as one of the wonders of
England. Baxter, the Nonconformist divine, lived here when he was persecuted by
Judge Jeffreys. I'he Earls of Chesterfield had a mansion hei*e. Sir Hans Sloane
lived on the south side ; and here Dr. Franklin came to see Sloane*s CSiriosities, " for
which,'' says Franklin, " he paid me handsomely." Dr. Radclifi^e lived here when he
gave 5202. to the poor Nonjuring clergy. Lord Mansfield's house was at the north-
east comer, when it was burnt to the walls by the rioters of 1780 ; and his books,
papers, and furniture made into a bonfire in the square. Lord and Lady Mansfield
escaped by a back door from the mob. On the north side is a bronze sitting statue of
Charles James Fox, by Westmacott. Ralph describes this side as " one of the finest
situations in Europe for a palace," with gardens and view of the country. Dr. Aken-
side, and the elder Mr. Disraeli, resided in this square. The latter compiled the
CuriotUies qf Literature in No. 6, which house was built in 1766, by Isaac Ware, the
editor of PaUadio, originally a chimney-sweep, and whose skin, it is said, was so
engrained with soot^ that he bore tiU his dying day the marks of his early calling.
Bbidoewateb Sqitabe, Barlncan, was once the site of the mansion and gardens
of the Earl of Bridgewater. " The middle is neatly enclosed with palisado palea
and set round with trees, which renders the place very ddightMJ'-^Strype,
I
748 CUBI08ITIE8 OF LONDON,
Bbunswick and Mbcklevbuboe Sqitabss, with the FoundHng Hq^B'
g^ronnds between them, form an uiy group; northward is ToBxniaTOir SQtiK
Ko. 65» readenoe of Sir Harris Nicoki, the genealogist
Bbtjlxston and Mobtaoue Sqitabbs were built on Ward's Kdd, and tfe s:
of Apple Village, b)' David Porter, who was once chimney-awccper to the tte "
Marylebone. At St. Mary's Church, Biyanston-square, June 7, 1838, IGs I^
(L. £. L.) was privately married, by her brother, to George Madean, goveniorofCrr
Coast Castle. The Rev. Dr. Dibdin was Rector (see p. 198).
CATcyDiBH Squabe (between two and three acres), named fiom the Wy Hf
rietU Cavendish Holies, the wife of Harley, Earl of Oxford, was planned ob ie
north side of Tyburn-road m 1715, when the locality was infested by footpi^ rL-
often robbed and stripped persons in the fields between London and Maryldnoe. ^
garet-street Chapel about seventy years since was an isolated building in Mairl^!^
fields : a shady ** Lover's Walk*' passed close by the chapel to Manchester-sq^t
another walk led through the fields to Paddington. The Square was laid oat elis:
1717; the whole of the north side being taken by «the Grand Duke" of daa^
who proposed to build here a palatial residence, and to purchase all the propertr t*^
tween Cavendish-square and his palace of Canons at Edgeware, so that he vl^
ride from town to the cnuntiy through hU ow» eeteUe, In- the British Mnseos s *
viewf of the mansion, designed by John Price : the wings only were built ; one fes:
the large manuon at the corner of Harley-strect, which was occupied by the Prkcei
Amelia, aunt to George IIL ; also by the Earl of Hopetoan, and the H«^-*
Amstenlam ; next by George Watson Taylor, Esq., who assembled here a very n*
able collection of paintings. The other wing of the Duke's plan is the comsi»B^
mansion at the comer of Chandos-street. The centre is prindpally oocap'ed bj tvi
splendid mansions, with Corinthian columns, designed by James of Greenwicb. ^
this period Harcourt House on the west side was the only other house here: ''it p
sents, with its high court-walls and porte-coch^e, more the appearance ot s Pw-»*
mansion than any other house in London." (S. AngeU,) The ground was first s*
at 2t, Bd, per foot. In the centre of the Square is an equestrian metal ststK :k
William Duke of Cumberland ; and on the south side a colossal standing bitinie s^'^
of Lord George Bentinck, third son of the Duke of Portland. Southward a Bs^
street, where, at No. 24, Lord Byron was bom. Mr. Coke, in 1833, told H*^^^
painter, that he remembered a fox killed in Cavendish-square, and that where E^*"
ley-square now stands was an excellent place for snipes.
Chjlbtebhoitbb Squabe is described by Hatton (1708) as "a pleasut pl«£« -^
good (und many new) buildings, the whole in the form of a pentagon." Here «^
Rutland House, in which the Venetian ambassadors lodged. Baxter the Nonconibi^
died in this square in 1691. It has been partly taken down. On the north s«^
the Chabtebhouss, tee pp. 85-88.
CoYXNT Gabdev, aee pp. 292-296.
Devonbhibb Squabe, Bishopsgate Without, " a pretty though very small sqf*^
inhabited by gentry and other merchants" (Eatton, 1708), was named from the M*
of Devonshire having lived there in a mansion previously possessed by th« ^ ^''
Oxford : " the Queen's majesty Elizabeth hath lodged there" {Stwo) The mwe*
was built in the midst of gardens and bowling-aUeys, by Jasper Fisher, one of tbe^
Clerks in Chancery, who thereby outrunning his income, the house was tBoekiop}
called " Fisher's Folly." It next became a conventicle ; hence "Ksher's FoUy «>
gregation" (EucUbrcu,) Here Murray and Dockwra set up the Penny ^<*5^
Murray also introduced the Club of Commerce (one of a trade) ; and at ^^^^,
House he opened a Bank of Credit, where money-bills were advanced upon go(^
posited. ^
EusTOK Squabe, St. Pancras, is named from the ground-landlords, the Do^^ ^
Grafton and Earls of Euston. Upon the site of the north side of the square |^ \
nursery-garden. Dr. Wolcot, the political satirist (Peter JE^dar), ended hisin^'
life in blindness.
8QUABE8. 749
FursBiTBY Sqvabb was bailt in 1789, by Qeorge Dance, B.A., on the nortb side of
Toorfielda. At the north-east corner lived the estimable Dr. Birkbeck, the fbander of
f echanioB* Institutions : he died here December 1, 1841, the eighteenth anniversary of
ie establishment of the first Mechanics' Institution in London.
FiTZBOT Squasb is named from Charles Fitzroy, second Duke of Grafton : the
2. and S. sides were commenced by W. and J. Adam in 1790. On the south side
ved Sir W. C. Boss, RJk.., the celebrated miniature-painter; and at No. 7, Sir
Iharlea Ii. Eastlake, President of the Royal Academy.
GoLBEK Squasb, Westminster, " not exactly in anybody's way, to or from any-
rhere," was "so called from the first builder, a very new and pleasant square"
Hatton, 1708); contemporary evidence, more reasonable than Pennant's hearsay
necdote that the name was Oelding, altered frt>m the sign of a neighbouring inn.
)ne of its earliest inhabitants was Lord Bolingbroke, when secretary -at-war, 1704-8.
n the centre of the square is a statue of George IT., formerly at Canons, near Edge-
eare. Gk>lden-square is a locality of Smollett's Sumphrey Clinker, and of Dickens's
yicholaa NtehUhf.
Hati>ov Squabb, Minories, is named from Alderman Haydon, the ground-landlord.
iHoae by were found, in 1852, sculptured gravestones and urns ; and in 1853 a sarco-
)bagas ; all of Roman work. In Haydon-square lived Sir Isaac Newton when Master
>f the Mint : the house was taken down about 1852. Here is Allsopp's Burton Ale
DepAt, occupying 20,000 square feet ; cargoes of ale are sent here from Burton, by
railway (140 miles), in an afternoon ; and the platforms and wagons are lowered by
bydraulic cranes into the vast cellars. Here also is the spring of pure water, which
rormerly supplied the priory of the Holy Trinity upon this spot.
GoBDOir Sqvajlb, New-road, has at the south-west angle the Catholic Apostolic
Church : cathedral-like Early English exterior, and Decorated interior, with a trifo*
rium in the aisle-roof; the ceilings are highly enriched, and some of the windows are
filled with stained glass ; the northern doorway and porch, and the southern wheel-
window, equal old examples; and gothic booses, with projections and gables, planted-
headed windows, and traoeried balconies, group around the church : sjrchitecta, Bran-
don and Ritchie. " Near the spot oocnined by Gordon-square, a circular enclosure was
constructed, about the year 1803, for the exhibition of the " first locomotive," the pro-
duction of Trevithick. Its performance was then so satisfactory that a bet was offbred
by the proprietors to match the engine to run a greater number of miles in twenty-
four hour* than any horse that could be produced, but there were no takers.-— Com-
municated to The BuUder,
GouGH Squabs, between Fetter-lane and Shoe-lane, oontidns the house. No. 17,
wherein Dr. Johnson compiled most of his Dictionary ; his amanuenses working in
the garrets.
Gbosybvob Squahs, six acres, is named fit)m Sir Bichard Grosvenor, who died in
1732. The houses, some of rubbed bricks with stone finishings, are spadous. The
centre landscape-garden was hud out by Kent, and the stone pedestal in the centre
once bore an equestrian statue of George L; the line of fortification during the Civil
War ran across the space now the square. It is a place of high iiuhion; and Dr.
Johnson once desired to be " Grosvenor of that ilk." Here lived Lord North and
John Vnikes; and at No. 89 (the Earl of Harrowby's) his Miyesty's Ministers were
to have dined on tho evening the Cato-street conspirators had planned to assassinate
them, and to bring away the heads of Lords Liverpool and Castlereagh in two bags !
Havotsb Sqvabb, built about 1718, was named in honour of George I., when it
was proposed to change the place of execution from Tyburn elsewhere, lest the proces-
sion of malefiictors might annoy the inhabitants of the new square. Here lived Field-
Marshal Lord Cobbam, the owner of princely Stowe. Admiral Lord Bodney died here
in 1792. On the east side are the Hanover Square Booms; the great room is 90 feet
^ 35 feet, and will hold 800 persons ; the cmling was painted by Cipriani. No. 11 is
the Zooloffieal SoeUi^f; No. 12, the Boyal AgricnUural Society s and on the west
•ide is the Oriental CM {tee p, 196). In Tenterden-street is the Soyal Academy of
750 CVniOSITIEa OF LONDON'.
Uktie, fonnded in 1822, inoorporftted 1880. UpoD the south ade of Hioora-ifs
b m ookMal bronze statue of WiUuun Htt, by Chantrey.
'*ThI« iqittrv, in connexion with GoorgMrtreet. hat alwmrs stnidc me m one of (he mrt »-
aRhitoctar&I displi^ that London pTOMnts: the etreet expanding to>warde the eqaan* tke npiB^
•lefpint etyle of the rarroonding mandoni, the judidoiu mixton of red brick and etne, C^ip^
atatne, and the sooeeiefU ecclcelaatleal work of Jamea (St Oeoig«ra), altOBefiher pnooa tti v
i^Teeable eflbct."-^. AmgOL
St. J avbs's Squabb, between Ftall Mall and Jermyn-atreet, ia boflt on part tf ^ ,
James's Fields. Godirey's print, from a drawing by Hollar, baa a stone ooadint »
the oentare of the present square. Mr. Conningbam fonnd seiveral of its tenants ntedb '
the parish-boolcs of St. Martin's-in-the-Fields in 1676 ; and amoog them, on the ««
aide, Madame Chorchill, mistress of the Duke of York ; and Madame Davis (HoU Un-
mistress of Charles II. On the north nde was Bomney House, where^ in 16^ £^
1697, King William III. visited the Earl of Romney, to v^itnesa fixeworks in u*
square; and in the latter year the Dutch Ambassador made before Ik bont ^
bonfire of 140 pitch-barrels, and wine was " kept continually running ssmo^ 'J'
common people." On the north side also was Ormond House, the maoskm d '^
great Duke of Ormond; the duchess died here in 1684; in 1698 the hoise vasletu
Count Tallard, the French Ambassador, for 600^ per annum, then a huge rent lata
rear of the present houses is Ormand-yard, now a mews. Ajopletree-jford, oppoEk.
keeps in memory the apple-orchards of St. James's Fields. Hatton desoiba ^
James's-square, in 1708, ••very pleasant, large, and beautiftd ; all very fine spaam
buildings (except that ride towards Pall Mall), mostly inhabited by the prime qnsHt;.
Sutton NichoUs's print, 1720, shows a fountain in the centre of the square, with a bsBS,
« fiUed by contract, in 1727, with water from York-buUdings." (Jfaladm,) i
pedestal for an equestrian statue of William III. was erected in the oen^Q^*^
square in 1732 ; but the statue, cast in brass by the younger Baooo, was oat B^f
vntil 1806, the bequest in 1724 for the cost having been forgotten, until the bkb?
was found in the list of unclaimed dividends. The Earl of Badnor had oo tiie aotu
side a manrion, painted by Vanson, over doors and chimney-pieces ; the stairctse ^
Lflguerre; and the apartments hung with pictures by Edema, Wyck, Boeitn^
Danckers, old Griffier, young Yandervelde, and Sybricbt At Ko. 7, lived Josab V(f^
wood, and here his stock of classic pottery was dispersed by auction. Na 2 is I^^
FUmouth's : the street-posts are cannon captured by his ancestor. Admiral Bos^^^
off Capo Finisterre. No. 4^ Earl de Qrey (tee p. 548} ; the Ute Earl received here^
Boyal Institute of British Architects. Na 6, Marquis of BristdL No.ll, B^^^^®
William Windham; Lord Chief Justice EUenborough in 1814; John Duke of Ba
burghe ; now the Wyndham Club {tee p. 261). No. 12, London UJbrainf {f» P- &^^'
here lived Lord Amherst when Commander-in-Chief. No. 13, Lid^ld iTcMue. <*>
built by Athenian Stuart for Lord Anson; from the balcony, on June 20, 1815, the Prist
Begent displayed the trophies just recdved from Waterloo to the dehghted popolatt
No. 15 (Sir PhiHp Francis's) was lent by Lady Frauds to Queen Carolineb in 1820. viv)
delighted to show herself at the drawing-room windows, and proceeded from tbe^
daily, in States to her trial in the House of Lords; at this time No. 16 wasX^
CastlereagVs. No. 17, the Duke of Cleveland's : here is Lel/s fine whole-ten^
portrait of the Duchess of Cleveland. No. 19, the Bishop of Winchester. Na Jj
Norfolk Souse (eee p. 554), occupies the site of the mansion of Henry Jennm ^
of St. Albans, who died here in 1683. No. 22 is London Souse, rebuilt in 1S30 f«
the Bishops of London. Upon the lower or Pall Mall ride lived the fiitber of H. £•
Morland, and grandflEitber of George Morland, all three painters.
Leicestxs Squabs (see pp. 511-515.)
LnrcoLN's Iw Fields {see pp. 527-629).
Lowndes Squabs, Belgravia, was built 1837-1839, and named from the fff^
landlord, W. Selby Lowndes, Esq. The seven houses at the south eud, by I^
Cubitt, resemble an Italian palace, with embellished chimney-shafta, Tuscan coro^
and Venetian balconies. The site of the square was once a coppice^ which soppln!^^
Abbot and Convent of Westminster with wood for fueL
SQUARES. 751
Mavchsbteb Sqitabb was began in 1776, by the building of Manchester Hooac
upon the north nde {see p. 552). At the north-west comer of the square is Man-
chester-street, where died, in 1814^ the impostor, Joanna Southcott, after imposing
upon six me^tical men with the story of her being eneeinite with the young ** Shiloh."
Mtddeltok Sqvabb, Islington, near the New Biver Head, is named from its origi-
nator. Sir Hugh Myddelton, the early engineer.
PoBTiCAir Sqitabe, upon the estate of W. H. Portman, Esq., an4 once the property
of the Knights of St. John of Jerusalem, was beg^n about 1764, but not completed untU
1784; it is 500 feet by 400. The centre is laid out as m shrubbery wilderness; and
here is a moveable kiosk, constructed for the Turkish Ambassador about 1808, when he
resided at No. 18 ; his Excellency customarily took the air and smoked here, surrounded
by a party of his retinue. At the north-west angle is Montague House {tee p. 554) :
here were the feather-hangings sung by Cowper ; here Miss Bumey was wdcomed, and
Br. Johnson grew tame. No. 15 (Duke of Leeds) : the architectural embellishments
of the staircase and principal rooms of this noble mansion, the rich mahogany doors,
sculptured marble chimney-pieces, and the comices and crilings, are all in the fine taste
of Robert Adam, who built the Adelphi-terraoe.
Pbhtcx's Squaxb.—- " As St. Giles's parish contains the largest square (Lincoln's
Inn Fields), so it also iMoy hooH of the smallest, which is situated near it — ^namely.
Prince's Square, containiug only one house" {D6b%e\ between Little Queen-street and
(xate-street ; a stone tablet is inscribed, " Prince's-square» 1736."
Pbivoe's Squabs, Batdiffe Iffighway* — Here is the Swedish Church, in which is
interred Emanuel Swedenborg; in the vestry-room are a few portraits, including
that of Dr. Serenius, Bishop of Stregnas. About the year 1816 the cranium of
Swedenborg was taken from the coffin by a Swedish captain, but was replaced after
his death.
QuEEir Squabb, Bloomsbury, built in the rmgn of Queen Anne, has a railed garden
fat the north side. Jonathan Bichardson, the painter, died here in 1745. At the
north-west comer Dr. John Campbell, editor of the Biographia BritafMica, gave his
Sunday-evening conversation-parties, at which Dr. Johnson used to meet " lE^oals of
Scotchmen." On the south-west side is the church of St. Qeorge-the-Martyr, of which
Dr. Stnkeley was rector {see p. 163) ; he lived in the square.
Qttbbh Sqitabb, Westminster, contains a statue of Queen Anne, mentioned in
1708. Here was bom in 1684^ Admiral Vernon, the hero of Portobello ; here lived the
Bev. C. M. Cracherode, who bequeathed his books, medals, and drawings to the British
Museum. In this square died, in 1784^ Dr. Thomas Francklin, the eradite Greek
scholar. (Quebh Squabb Chapel, see p. 214). In 1832 died, aged 85, Jeremy
Bentham, in Queen-square-plaoe, where he had resided for nearly half a century.
Bid Liok Squabb, " a pleasant square of good buildings, between High Holbom
south, and the fields north" {ffatton, 1708), was named from the Bed Lion Inn. In 1733,
Lord Chief Justice Baymond lived here ; Sharon Turner, the historian, lived many years
at No. 18 ; the benevolent Jonas Hanway, the traveller, lived and died (1786) here, in a
house, the principal rooms of which he had decorated with paintings and emblematical
devices, ''in a style peculiar to himself:" Hanway was honoured with a public funeral.
Sir John Prestwick, in his Bepnblica, tells us " Cromwell's remains were privately
interred in a small paddock near Holbom, on the spot where the obelisk in Bed Lion-
square lately stood." Prestwick does not give his authority for this statement ; it
may be a blunder, caused by the bodies of Cromwell, Treton, and Bradshaw bring
carried from Westminster Abbey to the Bed Lion Lun, Holbom, and the next day
dragged on sledges to Tyburn. (Wood's Athen. Oxon, art. <* Ireton.") No. 18 is the
Mendicity Societjf, The author of ^ Tour through Cheat Britain notes: "This
present year, 1737, an Act was passed for beautifying Bed Lyon-square, which had
mn much to decay, and no doubt but Leicester-fields and Golden-square will soon follow
these good examples."
BusssLL Squabb, north of Bedford-square, occupies part of Southampton Fields
752 CUBI08ITIE8 OF LONDON.
(1720), sabMqoently Long Fields. Its dimensions are Ii65 feet 6 inches nortb
665 feet 8 inches south ; 672 feet 7 inches west ; and 667 feet 1 inch east — 26651
feet sqnare, or aboat 140 feet less than Lincoln's Inn Fields. In 1800 Laofr Fidds
Uy waste and useless, with nursery grounds northward; the Tozapholiie So^ty^i
ground north-west ; and Bedford House, with its lawn and mag;m6oent fime-tr^
south. At the north-east end of Upper Montague-street was " the Field of Fartr
Footsteps " {tee p. 337). The east side of the square was the house and gardsis k
the dissolute Lord Baltimore ; the mandon is now divided.
Bedford Hoaae ttood acroas the present Wobam-plaoe. At that time Boltofu Hons^ -wioAocBa^
toraxan
the north extremity of the einerle line of hoiuei fornung Soathampton-row, wae the eztreme of Lcedxi
in that direction, for there wee no boilding in the then clear open '* Long-fields* between BohiQa Hock
and the SouihampUm Arm Tea-garden at Camden-town, to which there waa a footpath erafsjits^ :^
New-road, leaving the Boot, immortaliied hy Dickens in JBamaiy Bud^ at aome dlstanw on i^
right The Tiew northward ttom Qneen-eqaare was then quite nninterrapied.— .BmUar.
Hero, in No. 21, Sir Samuel Bomilly died by his own hand. Lord Chief Jostioe Test^-
den died in Ko. 28. Baltimore House, at the comer of Guilford-street. was kmg t^
residence of Wedderbum, Lord Chancellor Loughborough. Mr. Justice Talfimrd v«»
rendent at No. 67. Sir Thomas Lawrence lived for a quarter of a century in No. 65.
In the Oenileman*s Magagine, the Rev. John Mitford notes : ** We shall nej-er far^
the Cossacks, mounted on their small white horses, with their long speaxs grounded,
standing sentinels at the door of this great painter, whilst he was taking the portrait d
their general, Platoff" (1818). On the north side is the picturesque bronze attis^
statue of Francis, Duke of Bedford, by Westmacott.
Salibbubt Squabs (tee Fleet-btbebt, p. 34i9) ; at the north-west corner w» tbe
printing-office of RichanlBon, the novelist.
SOHO SQT7ABB, Originally King'a-square, was begun in the reign of Charles II.; tbe
south side consisting of Monmouth House, built by Wren for the Duke of Monmoath,
and after his death purchased by Lord Bateman ; in 1717 it was an auction room ; part
of the site is now occupied by Bateman's-buildings.
J. T. Smith, in NolUhtm and kit Time$, deacribes thepniling down of MemmoKih Mimte^ whkh te
wltneaaed : the gate entrance waa of massive ironwork, anpported bj stone iners, sarmoanted hr thp
crest of the Duke of Monnumth ; and within the gates was a ooortjard for caniagea. The faaU ^
ascended by steps. There were eight rooms on Uie groond-floor : the principal one was a dxniag^roia
towards the soutn, the carved and gilt panels of which had contained wnole-length pictiii«s. At coraen
of the ornamented ceilteg, which was of plaster, and over the chimnej-pieoe, the Doke of MootDoeik^
The '
arms were displayed. The staircase was of oak, the steps very low, and the landing-plaoea were temth"
lated with woods of light and dark colours. Upon ornamented brackets were busts of Seneca, Cw
calla, Tr^an, Adrian, Ac The principal room on the first-floor waa lined with blue satin, soperb.T
decorated with pheasants and other birds in gold. The chimney-piece waa richly ornamented v:lL
tnAt and foliage : in the centre, within a wreatii of oak-Ieavea, was a drcolar reoesa for a bssL Ttn
beads of the panels of the brown window-shatters, which were very lofty, were gilt; and the pien
between the windows had been filled with looking-glasses. The paved yara was sammnded by a red
brick wall, with heavy stone copings, 26 feet in height.
Shadwell, in his plays (1661), mentions " Soho-square ;" Maitland, 1739, " King's-
square," then a sort of Court quarter : Evelyn winteored " at Soho^ in the great square,''
in 1690. Bishop Burnet, the historian, lived here before he removed to ClerkenweU; I^
Curiosities included the supposed " original Magna Charta," with part of the Qreat Seal
remaining. The shipwrecked remains of Sir Cloudesly Shovel lay in state in 1707. At the
comer of Greek-street, No. 1, was the mansion of Aldennan Beddbrd, now tbe House of
Charity (tee p. 211) ; and thither came the partisan CHty procession, who prevailed
upon Beckford to serve his second mayoralty, in commemoration of which he feasted the
poor of St. Anne's, Soho. At the comer of Sutton-street was Carlisle House, where
Mrs. Cornelys gave her concerts, balls, and masquerades; the present Boman Oath<^
chapel in Sutton-street having been Mrs. Comelys's banquetting^room (connected with
the house by " the Chinese bridge "), and the gateway was the entrance for sedan-
chairs. In 1772 the " furniture, decorations, china, &&," of CarMe House were so2d
by auction ; but it was re-opened in 1774; Mrs. Cornelys returned here in 1776; and
it was next an exhibition-place of "monstrosities," a "School of Eloquence," and an
'* In&nt School of Qenius ;" it was closed in 1797, and taken down in 1803 or 180I ;
some of its cunous paintings were preserved ; and an account of Mrs. Comdys's enter-
tainments has been privately printed by Mr.T. MackinUiy. (Dr. MimbauU; Notet and
Queriet, No. 28.) No. 20, ** D'Almaine's," with a banqueting-room odling, aid to have
SQUARES. 753
been painted by Angelica Kanffinann, was bnilt for Earl Tilney by Colin Campbell,
architect of Wanstead Honse. No. 32 was Sir Joseph Banks's, P.R.S., next the honso
of the Linnean Society {tee p. 598), exempted from the poor>rate in 1854 on account
of its being used for the purposes of science. (Court of Queen's Bench Rep, May 80.)
At a house in Soho-sqnare, Bichard F&yne Knight, the classic antiquary (died 1824),
assembled his collection of ancient bronzes, and Qreek coins, value 50,000/., which he
bequeathed to the British Museum. At the comer of Bateman's-buildings, left, lived
George Colman the elder ; and right, Samuel Beazley, the dramatist, and architect of
the Lyceum and St. James's theatres. The Soho Bazaar (north-west comer) ia
described at p. 35. In the centre of the square is a pedestrian statue of Charles II.
(See FouKTA-lNS, p. 356.) In FrUh-street, on the south side of the square, died of
cholera, in 1830, William Hazlitt, the eloquent essayist : he was buried in St. Anne's
churchyard, where is " a stone raised by one whose heart is with him in his grave.
Frith-street is named "from Mr. Fryth, a great (and once rich) builder" (Hatton);
Maitland calls it " Tlirift-street."
»»
Tavistock Sqvabe, Euston-road, is named from the ground-landlord, the Duke of
Bedford, and Marquis of Tavistock.
Southward is TaoUto^c^laee. At No. 81 lived Mary Ann Clarke, mlstrefls of the Dake of York ; at
No. 32, Francis Douoe, the Ulostrator of Shakspeare, and aabseqaently, in the same home John Oalt
when editor 6f the Ccmrier; at No. 19, Sir Hams Nicolas, K.C.M.6., the peerage antiqaary; and at
No. 10. John Britton, before he remoTed to No. 17, Burton-street. In TavUioek-plaee^ at No. 87,
Francis Baily, F.BJS^ President of the Royal Astronomical Society, UTed from 1826 to 1840. The
house stands isolated in a gardeiL so as to be free from anr material trmior from passing carriages. A
small obserratory was constructea in the upper part; and herein Mr. Bally conmved a pair of scales
that enabled him approximately to weigh thf earth. 'The house and room are engraved and described
in Thinff9 not gemeraUg JTmowm, 1866. " The building in which the earth was weighed, and its bulk
and figure calculated, the standard measure of the British nation perpetuated, and the Pendulum ex-
perimenu rescued from their chief source of inaccuracy, can never cease to be an olycct of interest to
astronomers of fhtnre generationB."— Air Johm Sertektl, Bart,
Tbapalqab Squabs, Charing Cross, formed by the removal of the lower end of St.
Hartin's-lane, a knot of courts and alleys, the Golden Cross inn,* and low buildings
ac\ioining, was planned by Barry, and is named from the last victory of Nelson, to whom
a column is erected on the south side {eee p. 283) : the four colossal bronze lions at the
base of the pedestal, modelled by Sir E. Landseer, R.A., were added in 1867. The
whole square is paved with granite, has two large tanks with fountains (jtee p. 357), and
has on the north side a terrace, which imparts elevation to the National Qallery facade.
At the north-east and north-west angles are granite pedestals ; the former occupied
by Chantrey's bronze equestrian statue of George IV., intended for the top of the
marble arch at Buckingham Palace. The g^nite capstan posts in the area are charac-
teristic ; but the square has been condemned as " an artificial stone-quarry." The
massive lanterns at the angles were originally designed by Barry for Bnde-lights,
In 1831, upon the ground cleared for Trafalgar-square, was exhibited in a pavilion
the entire skeleton of a Greenland Whale, taken off the coast of Belgium in 1827 ;
total length, 95 feet; breadth, 18 feet; width of tail, 22( feet; length of head, 22
feet; height of cranium, 4^ feet; length of fins, 12 J feet; weight of animal, 249 tons,
or 480,0001b. ; weight of skeleton, 85 tons, or 70,0001b. ; (nl extracted, 4000 gallons.
The skeleton was nused upon iron supports, and visitors ascended within the ribs
by a flight of steps. It had been previously exhibited at Paris, where Cuvier and
others estimated the age of this whale at firom 900 to 1000 years. {See Mirror^
August 13, 1831.)
ViKCEirr Squasx, Westminster, a portion of Tothill fields, is named after Dr.
Vincent, then Dean of Westminster. Here is the church 6f St. Mary the Virgin, con-
secrated 1837 : style. Early Pointed, with lancet windows ; architect, E. Blore.
WsLLCLOfiS Squabb was originally called Marine-square, from its being a fiivourite
residence of naval officers. *' It is very near a geometrical square, whose area is about
2f acres; it is situated between Knockfergus north and Katcliff Highway south."
{Saiton, 1708.) Here is the Danish (now Sailors') Church. In Well-street, ad-
* April 28, 1618, it was ordered br Parliament that the sign of the Golden Crosa, at Charfaig^crtMS
be taken down, as sapentitlous and Idolatrous I
3 0
754 0UBI08ITIE8 OF LONDON.
joining, was the Royalty Theatre, burnt down April 11, 1826 ; upon the ate vas bc^
the Bmnawick Theatre ; it waa performed in only three nights^ and fell to the grocod
Feb. 28, 1828 ; within iix months of which waa Iniilt upon the same site the Saakr^
Home.
AVoBUBN Squase, St Fbncraa, named from a seat of the 2>nke of Bedford, hat ii
the centre a Pointed chorch, by L. Vulliamy, built in 1834: the spiie is 150 feet hk^
STATS COACKES.
THE " glistering coach" (Shattpeare) dates from the reign of Queen Elizabeth, vb?.
April 2, 1571, at the meeting of Parliament, rode for the fint time in a eoe^
drawn by two palfreys, covered with crimson velvet housings, richly embradered : }mi
this was the only carriage in the procession ; the Lord Keeper, and the Lords sparicaii
and temporal, dll attending on horseback. In 1588 the Queen went lioai Somerset
Place to St. Foul's Crosi, to return thanks after the destruction of the Spanish Ani^is.
m a coach presented to her by Heniy Earl of Anmdel, and called by Stow " a charot-
throne." In a print in the Crowle Pennant, in the British Muaeum, represeoti:^
Queen Henrietta-Maria doing penance beneath the gallows at Tybam, Cfaarks L 3
seated in a large and ornamented coach ; but this print Lb apocryphal.
The Coach of Queen Anne had its panels painted by Sir Jam@ Thomhill ; ssl s
friend of J. T. Smith possessed a portion of a panel. This coach was used by George L
and II., and by George III. when he first opened Parliament, and also at his marraee;
after whidi it was broken up^ and the State Carriage now used by the Boveregn «»
built.
The Quszn'8 State Coaoh, sometimes called the "Coronation Coach,'* was C^
Bgned by Sir William Chambers, R.A., who recommended Joseph Wilton, RJL, and
the sculptor Pigalle, to conduct the building of the carriage. The model was ezcentei
from Chambers's design by Laurence Anderson Holme, a Dane.
WOton was appointed state-coadi carrer to the King, and erected workaho|» opposite lEaiylAoM-
fldds, on the south side of what was afterwtrds named Qoeen Anne-itreet East, now called Fokr-iiace,
and occapjinff the large house now remaining at the sonth-esst oomer of Portland-strMt^ a<^»B:r.;.
Here Geo. IIl'b state-coach was boUt ; the small model of which [in wax, by Cai»tsoIdi and Vojer^ i^
panels painted in water-colours 1^ Cipriani], I, when a boy, was carried to see by Ur. NoUekeiM acd sf
nther, it being then preserved in a back shopw where it remained for many yean.— J. T. a&ixh'i
yoUeknu amd Aw TimeM, iL 172.
The carriage is composed of four tritons, who support the body by cables : the two
placed on the front bear the driver on their shoulders, and are soundix^ shells; and
those on the back part carry the imperial fiiaoes, topped with tridents. The drirer's
footboard is a large scallop-shell, supported by marine plants. The pole resembks a
bundle of lances ; and the wheels are in imitation of those of ancient triumphal (jnriois.
The body of the coach is composed of eight palm-trees, which, branching ofoi at the
top, sustain the roof : at each angle are trophies of British victOTies. On the centre of
the roof stand boy-genii of England, Scotland, and Ireland, supporting the imperial
crown, and holding the sceptre, the sword of state, and enagns of knighthood ; from
their bodies festoons of laurel fall thence to the four comers of the root The interrah
between the palm-trees, which form the body of the coach, are filled in the xipper port
with plate-glass, and the panels below with paintings as follow :
Jh»i< Piixcl.— Britannia on a throne, holding a staff of libertr, attended bj Beligioii. Jostke,
Wisdom, Valour, Fortitude, Commerce, Plenty, and VictoTj, presenting her with a garlaxid of laoiel;
background, St. Paul's and the Thames.
j^ht Door.— Industry and Ingenuity giving a cornucopia to ^e Genius of England. Sids JPanA.—
History recording the reports of Fame, and Peace burning the implements of War.
Back PaiMJ.— Meptune and Amphitrite in a car drawn by sea-horses, attended by the Winds, Ezt«t^
Tritons, Naiads, &c., brinfflng the tribute of the world to Britain.
Upp^r Part qfBaek PojmZ.— The Koyal Arms, ornamented with the order of St George^ the GoId£a
FleeceC the rose, shamrock, and thisUe entwined.
L^ Door.— Mars, Minenra, and Mercury supportmg the imperial crown. Side Ponsit.— The Aits
and Sciences protected.
The body is lined with scarlet embossed velvet, superbly laced and embroidered with
the star, encircled by the collar of the order of the Garter, and sxurmounted by the
imperial crown, pendant the George and Dragon ; in the cornier^, the xoae^ aham^ft^v^
STATE COACHES, 755
nd tbistle entwined. The badges of Sfc. Michael, Sfc. Oeorge, the Gaelph and Bath,
;t. Andrew, and St. Patrick are also among the embroidery. The hammercloth is of
carlet velvet, with gold badges, ropes, and tassels. The length of the carriage and
K>dy IB 24 feet; width, 8 feet 8 inches; height, 12 feet; length of pole, 12 feet 4
aches ; weight, 4 tons. The carving was mostly executed by Nicholas CoUett, a little
nan, whom Waldron the actor (originally a carver in wood) delighted to call " a
3arrick of a carver." The panels were painted by Cipriani, who received for the same
too/. The charing was execated by Coit, the coachwork by Butler, the embroidery
>y Barrett, the gilding (triple throoghont) by Rujolas, the varnishing by Ansel, and the
larness by Ringstead. The whole cost was as follows :
Coschmsker (inclading Wheelwright and Smith) . . £1637 15 0
Carrer 2600 0 0
Gflder 935 14 0
Painter 815 0 0
Laoeman . . • • 787 10 7
Chaaer 06546
Hameaniaker •••••• •••385 16 0
Meroer 208 5 10|
Beltmaker 9966
Milliner 31 3 4
Saadler 10 16 6
WooUendraper •• 436
Covermaker •• 896
£7628 4 81
The bill was 8000/. ; but being taxed, was reduced as above, the odd pence arising
from the ribbon-weaver's bilL The superb hammerdoth, of scarlet silk Genoa velvet,
with gold bodges, fringes, ropes, and tassels^ was renewed in 1888. The Boyal State
Coach was first used Nov. 1^ 1762. Walpole writes to Sir Horace Mann :
"There to come forth a new state-eoaeh, which has coat 80002. It to a beantiM otjcet, though
crowded with improprietiea. Its aapports are Tritona, not very well adapted to land carriage ; and
formed of mim-treea, which are as little aquatic aa Tritons are terreitriaL The crowd to see it, on the
openincT of the Parliament, waa greater than at the coronatioD, and much more mtochief done."
The Coach was kept in a shed at the King's Mews, Charing Cross ; upon the taking
down of which, it was removed to the Royal Mews, Fimlico, where also is kept the
State Harness for the dght horses by which the carriage to drawn when used by the
sovereign. The Coach and Harness may be inspected upon application. The new
hammercloth in the reign of William lY. cost 600Z. {See Msws, Royal, p. 566.)
Ths Lobd Matob*b Statb Coach is kept at the City Oreen-yard, Whitecross-
street, Cripplegate^ opposite the Debtors' Door : the coach may be here inspected. It
was built in 1767, by a subscription of 60/. from each of the junior aldermen, or such
as had not passed the dvic chair. Subsequently, each alderman, when sworn into office,
contributed 602. towards keeping the coach in repur ; fbr which purpose also each
Lord Mayor gave 100/. In a few years, the whole expense fell upon the Lord Mayor,
and in one year it exceeded 800Z. The coach was then transferred to the Corporation*
and it has since been kept in repair by the Committee of General Purposes. Twenty
years after its construction, the repairs in one year cost 336/. ; and the average of seven
years' repairs in the present century was 115/. The design of the coach to more mag-
nificent than gracefiil : the carriage consists of a pair of grotesque marine figures, wha
support the seat of the driver, with a large scallop-shell as a foot-board ; at the hind*
standard are two children bearing the City arms, beneath which is a large pelican ;
the perch to double, and terminates in dolphins' heads; and the four wheels are richly
carved and gilt, and resemble those of ancient triumphal chariots. The body is not
hung upon springs, but upon four thick red leather straps, fastened with Is^rge g^t*
brass buckles of spirited design, each bearing the City arms. The roof was origimdly
ornamented with eight gilt vases ; in the centre to a leaiy crown, bearing the City
arms, and from which small gilt flowers trail over the remainder of the roof, pwintM
red : originally, a group of four boys supporting baskets of fruits and flowers occupied
the centre. The upper intervato of the body, save at the back, are filled with plate*
glass ; and the several lower panels are punted as follow :
^FVoMi PomI.— Faith supporting a decrepit figure beside a flaming altar; Hope pointing to BL,
* Wa m X'SliOlwQs |ia«
8 o2
756 CURIOSITIES OF LOITDON.
Baek.—Cliaxitj ; a wrecked nilor, with a ihip in the offing, and two femaleB cmihig mooey aad
froita into hii lap.
Upper Baelc—The City, attended by Neptone ; Commerce introducing the Arab with his hone,cid
other traders with the oainel, elephant, ftc.
Might 2>oor.— Fame, with her wreath, preaentinff a Lord Mayor to the Qty, wbo bears the sword mi
aceptre, the mace, kc^ at her feet In the rery small panel beneath are Imit and flowers. SUifamU.-
BeMity with her mirror; female with bridled horse, Ac.
Ltjn Door.— The City seated, and Britannia pointing with her spear to a shield inacribed with * Bxsm
Tltz-Alwin, 1189" (the first Mayor). In the Tery small panels beneath are the acalea of jnitiee ^
aword of mercy, grouped. iSluf« Poacb.— Joatioe with her scales and sword; Prudence, &c.
The original heraldic paintings were executed by Catton, one of the foimdatiau mm-
hen of the Royal Academy. In shields at the lower angles of each door, and of tk
back and front panels, are emblazoned the arms of the Lord Mayor for the time bao^.
The framework is richly carved and gilt : over each door is a scallop-shell; and at iLe
lower angles of the body are dwarf figures emblematic of the four quarters of the^^li>l>r-
The smaller enrichments about the panels, as shellB, fruits, and flowers, are fedmi»Uj
carved and grouped : over the upper back panel is an exquisite bU — a serpent and dure.
The perch and wheels are punted red, picked out with gold ; and maasive gilt boes
cover the wheel-boxes : the wheels were renewed in 1828. The coach is lined wiiH
crimson corded silk and laoe ; and in the centre is a seat for the maoe and sword
bearers. The hammerdoth is crimson doth, but the original one was of gold lace.
This coach was repaired, new-lined, and reg^t in 1812, at an expense of 600L, wba
also a new seat-doth was furnished for 902. ; and in 1821 the re-lining cost 206^ Is
1812, Messrs. Houlditch agreed to keep the coach in fiur wear-and-tear for ten veaj^
at 48/. per annum. The total weight of the coach is 3 tons 16 cwt. : it is drawn by
six horses, for whom a superb state harness was made in 1833, that for eadi hor«
weighing 106lh.
It is not positively known by whom this coadi was carved, nor by whom the psods
were painted. Cipriani is stated by some to be the painter ; but others assert that
after the present Royal State Coach was built in 1762, the old Roj-al State Goscb «tf |
purchased by the City of London, and the panels re-painted by Dance : sudi is tbe
statement of Smith, in NoUekent and hit Timet ; but in the Report of the Muucipsl
Corporation Commissioners, the City Coach is stated to have been built in 1757. Tbe
liord Mayor rode in state upon horseback until 1712, when a state carriage, drawn bf
four horses, was first used. In 1741 the horses were increased to six. This State
Coach is represented in Hogarth's print of the Industrious Apprentioe, date 1747; it
is somewhat plain, but has ornamental vases upon the roof. In 1762, Lord V&jtv
Beckford purchased the very fine set of FUnders mares of M. Bored, Ambassador of tbe
States Goieral to the Court of St. James's; and they were used in Beckford's Mat-
ties. Every time the City State Coadi is used, it costs the Lord Mayor 20^ : AldecntB
Samuel Wilson used the coach twdve times in his Mayoralty, 1839-40. (Ste JjOSJ>
Matob's State, pp. 636^538.)
" Onr Lord Mayor and hla volden coach, and his gold-covered footmen and ooachman, and his p^
ohain, and hia chaplain, and ma great aword of atate, please the people, and puticalarly tbe ^^^"""''^
glrla, and when they are pleaaed the men and boya are pleased ; and many ayoong feUow baa bees omr
indoatrioQa and attentlTe fW>m hla hope of one dsy riding in that golden coaoh.**— CbMatf.
Thb Sfxaioeb's Stats Coach is traditionally said to have been Oliver Crom^^'
hut it is more probably of the time of William III. It is elaboratdy carredsnl
heavily gilt. Figures of naval and military prowess, Plenty, Ac, support tbe body;
the box is held by two larger figures of Plenty; the hammerdoth is of crimsoo rdr^
trimmed with nlver fringe ; and the footboard is borne by two Uons, and >°''°*^'°'^
with a large grotesque mask. The hind-standard is richly carved with ^'P"^'^
devices of antique and modem design. The framework of Uie panels is finely ctx^i
and the roof has a pierced parapet or gallery. The upper, side^ and front ptn^ ^
filled with splendid Yanxhall pktes of glass. The lower panels are painted «it^
emblematic subjects : the door-pand has a seated figure of Britannia, to wboo ^^d»J
figures are bringing fhiits, the horn of plenty, &c. The opposite door has also ta^
figure, and ano&er presenting the Bill of Rights, with Liberty, Fame, and Jo*^^
Beneath each door and panel are sculptured mace^, surmounted with a cap, emUeiB^
of the Speaker's authority. In the four side panels are emblematic fig°^ .
Literature, Architecture^ Science, and Plenty. The bade pand has a better coafO»'
STATJnS8. 757
tlon of Britannia, wearing a moral crown ; St. Paul's Cathedral, shipping, &c., in the
distance. The front panel also bears several allegorical figpires. In the lower part of
the pictures in the principal panels are emblazoned the Speaker's arms, and in the side-
panel pictures his crest. The coach is lined and trimmed with dark crimson velvet;
it has two seats, and a centre one: on the latter sit the Speaker's Mace-bearer and
Sword-bearer ; and his Chapbiin and Train-bearer sit fusing the Speaker. This coach
is used by the Speaker on opening Parliament, presenting addresses to the sovereign,
attending levees, &c., when it is drawn by a pur of horses in state harness. The coach
is kept at the Speaker's stables, Millbank.
8TATUS8.
niHE following are the principal out'door Statues in the Metropolis :
SiaitUB. Siie$, Seulpton.
"AcHiLLBs" Hyde Park Westmacott.
This groap la itrangelr ndioalled "AehilleB;" it being copied from one of the statnee onHonta
Cavallo, at Borne, which are called Castor and PoUox bj the Italian antiquaries Venuti and Yasi, and bj
Flazman named Jlellerophon. The inscription bronze letters have been stolen I
Albxbt, Fanro Lloyd's, Boyal Exchange . . . Longh.
ALVBxn, Kivo TrinitT-aqnare, Newin^on.
AiruB, QcxBir ot Jambs I. . Temple Bar BoahneU.
AirvB, QuBBjr Queen-sqnare, Bloomsbnry.
Abvb, Qitsbv Queen-square, Westminster.
Akvb, Qubbv St. Paul's Churchyard . . . . F. Bird.
AsKB, RoBBBT Hospltal, Hozton.
Bbdfobd, Dukb OB . . . . Bedford-square Westmacott
Bbbtibck, Lobo GaoBex . . Cavendiflh-equare Campbell.
Cakbiitg, Gxobob .... New Palace-yard Westmacott.
Cabtwbight, Hajob . . . Burton-crescent Clarke.
Chablxs I Charing Cross Le Sosnr.
"This noble equestrian statoe^" says Walpole, "in which the commanding grace of the flgore and
the exquisite form of the horse are striking to the most unpractised eye, waa cast in 1633, on a spot of
ground nev the church in Covent Garden; and not bdng erected before the commencement of the Civil
war, it was sold bv the Parliament to John Rivet, a braaer, living at the Btol, near Holbom Conduit,
with strict orders to break it in pieces. But the man produced some fragments of old brass, and con-
cealed the statue and horse undo^round till the Restoration." M. d'ArohenhoIz relates *' that he east a
vast number of handles of knives and forks in brass, which he sold as made of the broken statue. Thenr
were bought with eagerness by the Rovalists, from affection to thdr monarch— by the rebels as a mark
of triumph over their mordered sovereifm*" Walpole adds that " they had been made at the expense of
the fiunily of Howard-Arundel ;" but Mr. Cmmlngnam refers to a memorandum in the State-Paper Office^
from which he ooneludes this statue to have been ordered by the Lord Treasurer Weston, afterwards
£arl of Portland, of Hubert Le 8aanr, " for the casting of a horae in brasae, bigger than a great horse by
a foot ; and the figure of hia Mi^esty King Charles proportionable, fbll six foot; " to be set up in the
Lord Treasurer's gardens at Roenampton, in Surrey (see Hand-Book ((fLondon^ 2nd edit. p. 106). At the
Restoration,* an order of replevin was issued by ue House of Lords, upon the Information of the Earl
of Portland (son of the Lord Treasurer), for the recovery of the statue f^om Rivet ; but it was not set np
until 1674, when Waller wrote his courtly lines "On the Statne of King Charles L at Charing Cross.^
There is an idle story that Le Sosor, having fbilshed the statue, defi^ any one to point out a defect in
the work; when, on a person denoting the absence of the girth, the sculptor, in a fit of indignation,
destroyed himself. The assertion of the horse not having a gurth is quoted by Malcolm firam Tk9
MedUjf for August, 1719; bat thero is a girth, which passes over a very strong rein on the right. In
1810, the Bwor^ buckles, and straps fell from the statue; and about the coronraon of (ineen Victoria in
1S38, when seats wero erected round the group, the sword (a rapier of (Charles's period), was stolen.
The George pendent from the ribbon has also been taken away, as denoted by the vacant bcde in the
metal where the George should hans.
The stone pedestal, sculptured with the royal arms, trophies, ftc., was long admired as the work of
Gibbons; but a written acoonnt proves it to be by Joshua Marshall. Master Mason to the Crown. On
the 29th of May (Restoration Bay) this statue was formerly decorated with boughs of oak. In the spring
of 1853 a cast of the statue and pedestal was taken by Bruodani, for the Crratal Palace at Sydenham :
for the moulds and casts, 37 tons of plaster and 16 tons of iron were used. Tne following measurements
were also then taken : Ftdetial, IS ft. 8 in. high ; 9 ft. 11 in. long ; 6 ft. 7 in. wide. Statue: height from
foot to top of horse's head, 7 ft. 8 in. ; plinth to top of figure, 9 ft. 2^ in. ; plinth to neck of horse, 6 ft. ;
plinth to top of hind-quarters, 6 ft. 10 in. ; length from head to tail, 7 ft. 9 in. ; circumference of horse
from back of saddle-cloth, 8ft. Sin. ; round chest and hind-quarters, 16 ft. The metal casting around
the left fore-foot of the horse bears hvbbb(t) lb bvbvb (vb)cxt 1633.
" Although taken soon after Charles's accession, and at a time when sorrow could hardly have been
put upon him, yet the character of melancholy is deeply impressed on the countenance. The horse is
superb : the action is that which is taught in the minagtf the motion of the legs showing the spirit of
the animal : yet the action is not that of progressing,— it is a movement that would not communicate
motion to the body, but leaves the rider perlectly undisturbed; the bridle falls almost loose upon the
* In this year a statne of the Khig was restored in the City t " Msy 7, 1660. Charles the First his
Statne set up again in Qulldhall-yard?*— .Hwtor. Omdt, 1688.
758 0UBI08ITIB8 OF LONDON.
Mck ; nor doM tht well-tuiriit ftaed diftiirb the nrarie of thoaglit cxpr—ed in tbm couiitwimce «ria
Statue*. SiUt, Sealpiora.
CvABLBt I Tempi* Ber ..•••••• BnslmriL
CsABLie IL .••••• • Temple Ber • • • Bnehndi.
CHASLBe II. .••.•• • Soho-eqnaie.
Chaslh II • • • Cheleee Hoepitel QibboBs.
CLATTOir Sib Bousx . • . Bt Tbomas'e HoepiteL
CoBAM, Cm. Foimdlliig Hospital Celder llareliall.
The worthr founder <^this initttatioB sppeere in the eeme itjle of drem that he wove in Bft fee
Bowing wig. the lonf waleteoat» and broM-tailed open ooat i in one hand he hcdda the duster of tfae
hospital. The eonnteaanoe la moat animated and ezpreealTe, ae if talUmp to Hogaaih, or aooie othoi
who worked with him In eatabUshing thia foundation. No one will aay that tiie coetnme of this itafiat
ia nnpioturesqne aa treated; and tiie drcamstance ought to eneoorage us at the pteaifnt dij hoidi? b
^Hneate our great mM In the Ibrm in which they appeased on the aage of life.
CBoasT, in Jonr . . • • Croeby Hall (fhmt) NIzob.
CuxBBBiiUn). Ihnai o* • . CaTendlah-sQuan ...••'• Oieir.
Elxbabbtx, Qubbv • • • . St. Dnnatan%. Fleet-edeet.
• • Christ's Hospital.
• • Bt. Bartholomew's Hospital.
• • Bt Thomas's Hospital .... Seheemakaa.
• • Bdkool, Wandawonh-road.
• . BloomsbaiT-sqaare Weetmacott.
. • Waterloo-place Noble.
EnwABD VI.
EnwABD VI. .
Edwabb VI. .
Bldov, ISabl ov
C. J. Fox. . .
FBAjncLtf, Bib Jonr
The itatue. 8ft. 4in. high, bronie; pedeetal, polished granite. The likeneea haa beeii prnpfloawt
bj Lady Fraualin and others who knew her husband beet, to be eharaoteristic aad ezcmknt. Tls
noment selected fi>r repreaentation in the statue is when Franklin was addicaaing his offieera asid ore.
ind telling them that the North-wcet Passage had at hat been diacoTered.
The bas-relief on the front of the pedestal repreeenta the ftznerai of Franklin, aft wMeli Captmx
Ctoder reads the burial serrice. He is surrounded by the other sorrowing officers and crew of the two
ehlps, the Brthu* and Ttmr. It is well known that not one of the whole number of theae lumve fillovi
erer returned. Their namee, with* the name of Franklin himself, axe recorded on taronae paacb il
the side of the memorial. In the panel at the back of the tribute there ia an emboaaed broose etet
of the Arctic regiona, showing the poeitionof the two shlpe and their crews at the time of the death af
Franklin. The pedestal is ftirther adorned with bronze cable oomioe moulding at the pUnth, cnxkhri
frith oak-lea?es and aoona.
OioB»x I BtOeorge'a Ch]iidi,BloQinBbin7.
Obobob II Oolden-aquare.
Gbobab II Leicester^uare Buehard.
For the strange histocy of this statue, •«« Lbicbsxib^quabb. pp. 5I1-51S.
GsoB«B 111. (equestrian) . . Berkel^-ebnare Bampr^.
The statue executed in leed under the direction of Wilton, BA.
OaoBOB ni Somerset Houae ..•••. Bacon.
Obobgb III. ..••••• Cockspur-street Wyatt.
Gbobsb IV TraiUgar-square Ghantrej.
In meddling the horse standing stlU on all four legs, Chantrqr has giTen the sanetioii of Ids umeta
a bold and judicious innoTation on the old custom of repreeenting horses in atatoea either tsut feting cr
ambling. The horse was modelled fbr the statue of Sir Thomas Munrow
QvABsa Mbkobxal • • • • Waterloo-place BelL
A granite pedestal: three guardsmen, bronae; figure of Honour diatriboting oarosiala^ brmiir;
pyramid of cannon ; Inscription : *' To tiie memory of S1<B offieera and men of the Brigade of Guardi
who fiBU during the war in Bu88ia» 18H ISUt IBSe."
Gut, Thomab Guy's Hospital ...••. Scheemakera.
Haitdbl, G. F. • • • • • Sacred Harmonic Society . . • Bonbiliae.
HbvbtVIII. St Bartholomew's Hospital
Hbbbbet, Lobd War Office, Fell liall .... Fol^.
A bronze statue 9 ft. in height, on a carved granite pedeetal, the lower grey and the upper pottlBB a
beautiful specimen of red granite. Let into the ffranite on three of ita aides are thrse Aat rMMfa, ate
in bronze, illustrative of sutdects to which Lord Herbert cfaieily devoted hia attention whBat flBiag tb«
office of Secretary of State for War. On the fkoe of the pedestal, beneath the words ** Bldn^
mghtingale inatrucong nurses in their duties of tending wounded and sick aoldieta leij good, in
the east side is a ftcu rtl^f, repreeenting the volunteer movement, in whieh a battalion dTvoloBtefrf
are seen matching; whilst that on the west aide exhibita the process of caaUng and tosttng the im
Armstrong gun at Woolwich, which event ocenxred during the admlniatcation of Lord Heitet ia t^
post of War Minister.
Hatblooe, Sot Hbbbt . . Trafalgar-square Behnea.
Statue bronze : inscription upon pedestal : "To Ma|or-General Sir Henry Havdock, K.CB, aad ka
brave oompanlona daring the campaign in India. '^Soldiers.— Your labours, your pcivatioo^ ynr
auflTeriogs, and your valour will not be forgotten by a grateml countnri— H. Havdock.*" The ia-
acription on the back of the pedeetal ia as follows ^-'* The force commanded by Havdoek enmisrwl d
the Stall; cavalry, Volnnteen^ 12th and ISth Irreguhwsb Srd Onde Irregulaisz Sqyal AitiDcry-M
8TATUE8, 769
Company, 8th Battalion; Bengal Artillery— 2nd Company, 8rd Battalion; 1st Company, 6th Battalion ;
31 h Company, 9th Battalion; Bengal Gnginoero; Intaotry— 6th Fusiliers, 84th Regiment, 64th Begl-
nient, 90th Light Infimtry, 78th Highlanders, 1st Madras Fosiliers, Feroxeporc Regiment of Sikhs.—
Behnes, acolpsit."
Statue$. 8U*$, 8eulp(or$.
KvxTKE. JoHV College of Bargeons Woekes.
HtTsx 1880V, William . . . Llojd's, Royal Rxdiange . • . Lough.
Jambs I Temple Bar BoshnelL
Jamks II Whitehall Gardens Gibbons.
The doubt which long prerailed respecting the artist of this statue has been cleared up by the
following passage in the hOoHogrnphg qfSir John BramHom, printed by the Camden Society. "On
ICew Year's day, 1686, a statue in brass was to be seen (placed the day before) in the yard at Whitehall,
made by Gibbons, at the oharffo of Toby Rostick, of the present kiug, James 11." Thus Walpole had a
correct impression of the truth when he wrote, "I am the rather inclined to attribute the statue at
liVbitehall to Gibbons, because I know of no other artist of that time capable of it." The likeness is
extremely flne^ as is the easr attitude of the figure. Many verses were made on this statue at tlie time
of its erection. The figure looking towards the riTer, which was then open, was Aid to prognosticate
tbe king's flight ; this, howerer. u not more probable than that he is pointing to the upot where his
father was ereeuted, which has long been prored a Tulgar error. At the aooession of William UL, th«
fltatne was not remoTcd.
Jsvrai, Db. Kensfaigton Gardens • • • . CalderMarshaU.
KxHT, Uun ov Portland-place » Gahagan.
MiLuvGAW, RoBzmi . . . West India Docks.
MooBS, Sim Johv .... Chri»t'i Hospital.
Mtsdiltoit, Sie Hush . . Islingtou-green Thomas.
The flgore of the knight Is 8 ft. 6 in. in height It is oarred in white Sicilian marble, and represents
Sir Hugh clothed in the costume of the latter portion of the 16th century, with badge and chain,
holding in his left hand a scroll containing the plan of his great and useihl work, labelled with the
worda ^New River." The statue is placed upon a pedestal of gray DeTonshbv granite, on the ftont flue
of which is carred the following inscription : "Sir Hugh Myddefton, bom 1666, died 1631." The base
beneath the pedestal is of Portland stonei and on the right and left of the pedestal are two figures of
boys partly draped, with hair entwined with bulrushes, and seated on pitchers, from which Uater the
water pours into the basins. The figures and basins are of carred Sicilian marble. The statue itsell^
was given by Sir S. M. Peto, and the rest provided for by subscription, the New River Company having
given 601, towards the cost. The whole is 21 feet high, the principal statue H toet,
NiLSov, Lobs ... . TraiUgar-square Bally.
Baily's statue of Nelson has been likened to a Greenwich pensioner. The fbnr bronze lions, bv Sir
Edwin Landseer, were added to the base of the pedestal in 1867. Only one Hon was modelled. A slight
variation in treatment enabled the artist to adapt this one design to his four pedestals. The completed
statue is not much above the size of a large (hfl-grown lion, as we know the king of beasts in confine-
ment. The action is the simplest, but grandest; one natural to Uie animal and right royal; he Is
couchant, with his massive arms eztendea straight before him; his huge head, calm in the consdooa-
ncss of ndght, erect, and watchftil, but with no anger nor deiianoe, except that which is inseparable
from such strength. The modeUIng of the head will at once strike every one who sees this noble
design. Into this Sir Edwin has thrown all his unequalled power as a master of animal physloffnomy*
and hisr^d pendl never rendered the subUe curvatures of bony and muscular surfoce, the deucadec
of light and shadow, and the secrets of expresdon with more oonsunmiate skUl on the canvas than thej
ore here given bv modelling tool and hand together in the day. Tlie dllBculties of the mane and the
shaggy ftinge which extends along the fore part of the animal have been managed with great Judgment.
They are treated in broad and simple masses. {Timet.) Even this memorial was not commenced
nntu three4md«thirty years had elapsed ttom the day on which were borne in moomfhl pomp, post this
very ^ot, all that was mortal of him
** Whose sacred splendour, and whose deafhlesi name^
Shall grace anu guard his country's naval fkme.'*
Ni^nxB, SiB C. J Trafi&lgar-square Adams.
Pbbl, Sib Robbbt .... Cheapside Behnes.
Pitt, William Hanover-square Chantrey.
RxcsABo CatVB DB LioB . . Old Palace-yard MarochetU.
Midway between the Peers' entrance to the Houses of Parliament and the end of Westminster
Kail, and in a line with the centre of the great window in the Hall. It is placed on a pedestal
of granite about 8 fieet 6 inches high: in which two panels are occupied by bronxe r«U«vk The
group Is pictureeqne: bat the hind-quarters of the horse and the Iktigumg attitude of the man ua«
Bticcessfnl— that the king appears to be sitting on his horse witUf, Juk as a groom does when without
a «addle ; whereas, as the attitude is supposed to be a mowuidan aae, the figure should, with uplifted
arm, have been nosed In the stirrups. This would have given lifli to the figure and would have con-
nected it, as it wercb better with tiie horse. No man on a prandng chaiger would be lifting up hie
sword in a supposed dignified podtlon with his feet dan^ng oardessly in the stlrmps. Yet this work
has been authoritatively pronounoed by the EMtAurgk MMtm as " ^ fkr the noblest equestrian statue
InEnglandr The pedestal Is IndgBiflcant
SBAKBnjLBB, WiLLiAX . . Drury-lsne Theatre porUoo . • Scheemakers.
Exeeuted in had by Cheere, ** the leaden figure-man at Hyde-park Comer.*' It was presented to the
theatre bj Mr. Whitbreed, M.P.
Sloavb, Sib Hjutb .... Chelsea Rysbraeck.
YiCTOBU, Qdbbv .... Itoyal Exchange houffh.
YiOTOBXA, QvBBv .... New Record Offlce Durham.
WAn% Db. Uaao .... Abney Perk Cemetery .... Daily.
760 CURIOSITIES OF LONDON: ^^_^
WsLLivoToir, DuxB ov . . Green Park Arch Wyatts.
This ttnpendous ttatoe waa modelled bj Matthew Cotes Wyatt, and hU wm James Wjatt,at I>^
groTe Honae, Harrow-road; it waa oommenoed in 1840, and occapied three years, and took mere ue
100 tons of plaster. It represents the Duke of Wellington apon his horse ** Copenhagen," at tb» id.
of Waterloo : the Dnke sat for the portrait^ and the head and likeness are fine. The gnmp ii c^ a
abont dght pieces, which are fastened with screws and ftiaed together, 30 men being often fJ^^ '
one time upon the bronse. It was oonvejed upon an immense oar, drawn by 40 noises^ to uk w«
Park Arch, Sept. 28, 1846; it waa raised by crabs. The entire group weighs 40 tons : is nearh »fcti
high; and within half of the horse eight persons have diued. The girth of the hovse »^J^ *^'
nose to tail 96 feet; length of head 6 firat; length of each ear 2 ft 4 u. The ereetion of tlm ztm.
which cost about 30.0001^ originated (hmi the close contest for the ezecotion of the WeUinctoa Hi^
in the City; and the execution of both statues emanated firom s suggestion of Mr. T. B. Saapsos, J.
tiw Court of Common CouncU, Lime-atreet Ward.
WBunoTOir, Dim ov . . Woolwich Milnes.
WiLLuroTov, Ddkb ov . . Bojal Exdumge Chentrcy.
WssTiBirsTSBa, Ou> . . . Westminster Broadwaj . . . Scott.
This monument before the west end of Westminster Abbej, to the ** old Westminster^ who penbd
in the Crimean war is effective and picturesque.
William III. St. James's^uare Bacon, jun.
William IV King William-street .... Nixon.
The sereral SUtues hi the East India House, Guildhall, British Museum, Parliament Hoose^ %
Paul's Cathedral, Westminster Abb^, Boyal Exchange, and other pubUcbuUdings, are described oods
their respectlTe names. ^
At Newgate Prison, in exterior niches, are meritorious statues of Concord and Liberty, Xestr ^
Troth, Peace and Plentj,— fhun the Old Gate.
ToBK, Dun ov York Column Westmaeott
STOCK SXCBJJfGE, fuUy described at pp. 881-333.
STRAND {TEE)
EXTENDS from Charing Cross to Temple Bar (1869 yards, or | of a mile 49 yvdij,
and was " probably so called as being at the brink of the Thamesy before the spaa
now built on was gained by raimng the gromid" {HaUon^, which is in some plscs
20 feet deep. In early ages this was the great tborooghfare between the Court and
City, and the Inns of Court and Westminster. The mte of St Clement's Danes ii
recognised in tradition as " the Danes' churchyard," the burial-place of the son ^
Canute the Great, Harold Harefoot. Here, dose by the Thames, and outside the Citj
walls, dwelt together as fellow-countrymen the Danish merchants and mariners ; a^
their church, like that at Aarhuus in Jutland, and Trondjeun in Norway, was dedicated
to St. Clement, the seaman's patron-saint. {J, J, A, Worsaae, For, F.S,A.) Anot&er
early building was the Hermitage of St. Catherine at Charing, and adjoining or oppo-
site, the Hospital of St Mary Rounceval {temp, Henry III.) ; also, the palace of ^
Savoy, and the first church of St. Mary, were built before the 14ith century. A ^
tion to Edward II. (1315) describes the footway interrupted by thickets and hashes;
and in 1883 tolls were granted for paving the Strand from the Savoy to Temple Bar.
The south side was occupied by the mansions of the nobility and prelates, with gsrdeos
terraces, and water-stairs down to the Thames ; but the spaces between the mansiODS
showed the river : whilst on the north side were the gardens of the Convent of ^^^
minster, bounded by lanes and open g^und ; the vilkge of St. Giles, and the cbtircb
of St. Martin in the fields s and Charing Cross, without a house near it Oneo^
Canaletto*s pictures shows Charing Cross, Northumberland House, and the StraBo* \
^•ith the signs in front of the houses. Van der Wyngrerde's View, 1543, ^^
straggling lines of houses from the bar (now Temple Bar) to the Savoy, and heyoodi*
on the south side ; but the north is open to Convent Garden ; and in the roadway are
St. Clement's and St. Mary's churches, and the Maypole, near upon the site of ^
Strand Cross, where "the justices itinerants sate without London " (Stow). Ofu^
Tliames-bank palaces are shown Somerset-place, the Savoy, and Durham Boaa^* ^
this time the Strand was crossed by three water-courses running from the nortb totM
Thames, over which were bridges ; the sites of two are denoted by Ivy-bridge-uo^
and Strand-bridge-lane; and the remains of a tiiird bridge were unearthed in l902i*
8TBANB. 761
little eastward of St. Clement's chnrch. The Ivy-bridge stream formed the boundary
between the Liberty and Dnchjr of Lancaster, and the City of Westminster.
STBAin> : SorTH 8n)'R.''-^I9'orthumherland House is described at page 554. Next
door, npon the site of No. 1, Strand, was the official residence of the Secretary of
State, where Sir Harry Vane the elder lived, in the reign of Charles I. Northwmber'
land-court was once known as "Lieutenants' Lodgings:" here Nelson lodged.
Northumberland'tireeif formerly Hartshome-lane : here, with his mother and step-
father, a bricklayer, lived Ben Jonson when he went to "a private school in St.
Martin's Chnrch ;" and next to Westminster School, under Camden, then junior
master. Craven-itreet : mt No. 7 lived Dr. Benjamin Franklin, in 1771. At No. 27
died, in 1839, James Smith, one of the authors of the Befeeted Addrettes. At
No. 18, Strand, was bom, 1776, Charles Mathews, the comedian : his father was a
bookseller ; and his shop was the resort of Dr. Adam Clarke, Rowland fiiU, and other
Dissenting ministers.
Charing Orou EaUma^ Temumu and Hotel, described at pp. 442-8. The parly
history of this spot is glanced at in pp. 559-560 : it was part of the Hnngerford
estate : it was long a site of sorzy speculations and costly failure.
The beantiftil Gothic croaa In the eonrUYSid is about 100 Tvds east of the dte of CharlngHsrois, the
Eleanor memorial, of which the new croee ib a reprodnctlon, bj Edward M. Bany, A.RA., from acanty
authorities, namelT, a rough drawinic in the Crowle Pennant, in the British Huseam ; a lecond drawing
in the Bodleian Lioraxy ; and a third in the library of the Sodeiy of Antiqnariee. The height to the top
of the gilt copper croes hj which the memorial is tonnoontad is about 70 feet; the materials Portland
stone, red Mimafleld stone, and Aberdeen granite; sculptor, Thomas Earp. In the upper story are eirht
crowned statues of Queen Eleanor, four representing her as queen, with royal insignia, and the otaer
four with the attributes of a Christian woman. At the feet of the statues are eight figmres of kneeling
angels in prayer. The slilelds in the lower stsM are copied from those existing on the crosses^
Waltham and Northampton, and on the tomb^ ana consist of three Tarieties. The mrst displays three
lions passant gardant, first assumed as the Sojal arms of England by King Henry II. in 1164^ and whidi
still forms part of the Bojal arms as borne by Queen Victoria. The second is that of Fonthieu, which
Queen Eleanor bore in right of her mother, and simply consists of three bendlets within a bordure. The
third shield represents the anna of Castile and Leon, arranged quarterly ; and the representation of the
earliest known quartering of arms. The anns of CaaUIe are a castle, triple towered ; and those of Leon
represents a lion rampant. The order of the shields accords with the arrangement at Northampton,
Waltham, and Westminster. The diaper above the tracery in the lowest stage of the monument is com-
posed of octagonal panels, richly undercuL representing altemateW the castle of Castile and the lion
rampant of Leon: the pillow and couch of the elBgy haTe a similar oesigu. Thecanring generally of the
crockets, capitals, canopies, diapers, gargoyles, ftc, atrrees with the best remains of English thirteenth-
century art. The cost has not exceeded 1800{. It is efTecttTely engraved in the 2Ites<raMXoiufoiiire»f,
Bee 9, 18d6.
No. 31, Strand, occupies part of the site of York House, originally the inn of the
Bishop of Norwidi; and heing obtained in exchange for Suffolk House, Southwark, by
Heath, Archbishop of Tcvk, temp. Queen Mary, the name was changed to York House.
It was let to the Lord Keepers of the Great SmI : here lived Sir Nicholas Bacon ; and
here was bom his son, Lord Chancellor Bacon, 22nd January, 1660-1. At York House he
kept his 60th birthday. Here the Great Seal was taken from him : when importuned
by the Duke of Lennox to part with the mansion, Bacon replied, " For this you will
pardon me: York House Ib the House where my father died, and where I first
breathed; and there will I yield my last breath, if so please God and the king." He
did not, however, return to York House after his release from the Tower, being
forbidden to come within the verge of the court. The house was next lent to Yilliers^
Duke of Buckingham, who, in 1624, obtained the estate by grant from James I. The
loansion was then taken down, and a temporary house built for State receptions, and
snioptuously fitted with ** huge panes of glass " (mirrors), of the manufacture of which
in England Buckingham was an early patron. Near the middle of a long embattled
^aU, fronting the Thames, he caused to be erected, in 1626, a rustic Water-gate.
After the Duke's death, in 1628, York House was leased to the Earl of Northumberhmd.
Here was a fine collection of pictures, among which is supposed to have been the lost
portrait of Prince Charles, by Yelasques. Here also was the collection of sculptures
which belonged to Rubens; and in the garden was John de Bologna's Cain and Abel.
"^0 "superstitious pictures" were sold by order of Parliament in 1646; and the
boose was given by Cromwell to General Furfax, by the marriage of whose daughter
and^ heireas with George, second Duke of Buckingham, it was reconveyed to the
VUlien fimuly. The Didte resided here subsequent to the Bestoiation : but in 1672
762 CUBI08ITIE8 OF LONDON.
«old Uie estate for 80,0002., when the mannon was polled down, and upon the gmia
and gardens were erected bouses named from the last possessor of the iiaa»3-
Gtfory^-street (now York-bnUdings), VUUen'Streei, Daiktf-fitreet, Qf-tS^, ^^
Aam-street. The whole estate was also called York-btdidiugs,
The York BtfUdinffs Waterworkt Company, for sapplying the Weit-endof Ue^
with water, was one of the hnbUes of 1720. For this purpose, however, a TenuSf
«team-engine was constructed, which is thus described in the For^gma't Gvii ts
London, 1720 :
"Here jou see a high wooden tower sod s wster«igui6 of a new inventian, that dnvtoetsf*^
Theme* above tliree tone of water in one minute, by means of the ateam aiisinfr from water boiiK !^i
great eopper, a oonUnoal fire belnc kept to that purpose ; the steam bein^ oomprBcaed and cod^^
moTea, bj ita eraporation, and atcueaaooonterpoiaev which ooimterpoiae driking another, al Ma^ *
a great htum, wluch, by ita motion of going op and aown,drawa the water from uiezirer.wluc&afle? i
through gTMtt iron pipes to the height of the tower, discharging itaelf there Into a deep leadsi s»ia:
and thence falling throogh other large iron pipes, fills them that are laid along the 8tneta,aadK>:a- ;
tinuingto ran through wooden pipes aa fiur as Mar-bone fielda, falls there into a large pond orii^f^<
firom whence the new boildings near HanoTcr-aquare and many thonaand hoosea, are "9^^
water. This machine ia certainly a great cuiioaity; and thoogh it be not ao Urge aa that of iWt-^
France, Tet, eonsideiing its amallneaa in comparison with that, and the little chioaa it «sa MS »>
kept with, and the quantity of water It draws, its use and benefit ia much beyond tnaL*
The Company ceased to work this " fir&«ngine" in 1731 ; but it was shown for sev^
years as a curiosity. In All AUee and Merry, or the London Daily Pod, April IS.
1741, it is stated that the charge of working the machine, " and aome other rettsi
concurring, made its proprietors, the York Buildings Company, lay amde the deiga;
and no doubt but the inhabitants in this neighbourhood are very glad of it; f<>r^
working, which was by sea-ooal, was attended with so much smoke, that it not- @lj
must pollute the air thereabouts, but spoil the furniture." The failure is titeeatgeetct
an amusing jeu d^esprit, entitled " The York Buildings Dragons,'' reprinted s
Wrighf s England under the Souse of Hanotfer, vol. i. AppencUx. Many of ^
wooden water-pipes have been taken up in excavations in Brook-street, GT0STaK^
square and in other places along the line. In Buckingham-street, in 181S» ^^
•'the Sea-water Baths," which were supplied by a vessel with water from btw
Southend. See James's View on the Thames, in the Hampton Court Picture GaBsr.
Erelyn notes : ** 17th Nov. 1683.— I tooke a house in Yilliers-streete, Yorlc-bidldiiigs, for the sists.
having many important ooncema to dispatch, and for the education of my dau^ters. — i>M'y*
Suekingham^reet : at the last house on the west side (nnce rebuilt) lived Semt»
Pepys from 1684 to 1700 ; and No. 15, on the east side opposite, was lured for Peter tk
Great in 1698 : the house has some noble rooms facing the river : here the lostftaOfS
of Civil £ngineer8 once met At No. 14^ in the top chambers, lived William £ti^
B.A., the painter, from 1826 to 1849. At the south end of Buckingham-street i«a^
the Water-gate built for York House^ which stood a short distance westward.
The Gate is of Portland-stone : on the northern or street side are three aiehea, flanked «i^;^''f^
supporting an entablature and fbur balls; i^ve the keystones of the axchee are ahidds^ tboK » >f
aides scalptured with anchors, and tliat in the centre with the arma of Villiera impaling those aif|
fiunily of Mannera. Upon the flriexe ia the Villiers motto; roxi concuLs. cacx (the Grosi » |f
Toucnstone of Faith). The southern or rirer ftout haa a large archway, opening imon ftep* loj^
water; on each aide ia an aperture, divided by a small column, and partly dosed by balnstraaes. J^
rusticated oolumna support an entablaturcL ornamented with aeallops, and crowiied with ^j^^
pediment, and two oonchant lions holding snields, on which are sculptured anchoia. In ^ ^f^.
within a scroll, are the arma of Villiers, viz., on a cross, five escallope, encircled by a g*rter. sea s^
mounted by a aueal coronet; at the aides are pendent festoons. This Gate has been esenbei ^J^.
Jones; but in the library of the Soane Huaeum, in an "Account Book of Workea done ^.^'^
Stone, sen. Master-mason to King Jamea 1. and King Charlea," the ninth article in tiie list ^ Jt
Watei^gate at Yorke House bee denied and iuiU. and ye right hand Lion hee did fronting j« lu°>^
Mr. Keame, a Jarman, his brotiier by marrying his sister, did ye Shee lion."
The Gate is approached by an inclosed terrace-walk, planted with lime-trees.
The Adelphi, east of York-buildings, is described at page 1. John-etreet occnpies i»
site of Durham House, which extended from the river to the Strand. It was baUt ^
Thomas Hatfield, Bishop of Durham, 1845-1381, and continued to be inhabited by^
see nntil Bishop Tunstall exchanged the house for Coldharborough, in Thames-s^*
Durham Place was used as a mint by the Seymours. Edward VI. granted ^ P^
to his nster Elizabeth. It next became the rendence of Dudley, Earl of KortbQis>>^
land; and here was celebrated his son's marriage with Lady Jane QrejTi *^^
assuming the crown, was lodged in Durham Place, and thence escorted to the 'i^'
The estate was restored by Queen Maiy to Bishop Tunstall; but Elisabetb, on ber
STBAJSTD. 763
:*ce98ioii, daimed Dnrham Place as one of the royal palaces, and granted it to Sir
V'alter Raleigh, who poeiessed it for twenty years, but surrendered it in 1603 to the
iien Bishop of Dnrham. Aubrey well remembered Raleigh's " study, which was on a
ttle turret that looked into and over the Thames, and had the prospect, which is as
leasant, perhaps, as any in the world." The stables fronting the Strand were next
aken down, and upon the ground was built the New Exchange (see pp. 830-381),
emolished in 1737 : the site is now occupied by the houses Nos. 54 to 64 in^usivo^
he banking-house of Coutts and Co. being the centre : the name survives in Durham^
treet. At Coutts's (No. 59), formerly in St. Martin's-lane^ the sovereign and the royal
amily have banked (kept cash), commencing with Queen Anne : the series of accounts
s preserved entire.
SeiMufarMmldinge occapf the site of a manrion named from its successive owneri^
'JarUsle Houee (Bishops of Carlisle) ; Bedford and EueteU Ewue (Earls of Bedfbrd) ;
Worcester Hotue, from its next occupant, the Marquis of Worcester, who wrote the
Century of Inveniions; and from the Marquis's eldest son, created Duke of Beaufort,
"Seaport Home, Lord Clarendon lived here while his house was building at the top
3f St. James's-street ; and here, in 1660, was married Anne Hyde, the Chancellor's
dangbter, to the Duke of York, according to the Protestant rites. The mansion was
taken down, and a smaller house built ; which being burnt down, with some others, in
1695, upon the ground were erected the present Bcwufbrt-buildings. In a house on the
nte was bom Ajuron Hill, the dramatiBt, 1685. At the east comer, upon the site of
No. 96, Strand, lived Charles Lillie, who sold snuffii, perfumes, && ; and took in letters
for the Tatler, Spectator, &c, directed to him at the desire of Steele.
Mr.Bimmtl haspiiblished aclererbook on Perftuneir, in which he mentions, betides LIllIc, "one Perrr,
residing also in the Strand, at the comer of Bnrleign-ftTeet. He wae. however, redooed to ' blow bis
own trumpet;' and in a paper called the Wtettg Packet, bearing the date of 28th Deeember, 1718, he
vannta, bMidea hit perfomea, an oil drawn from mnitard<aeed, which, at the moderate price of 6tf . per
oonce^ is warranted to core ail diieaaea under the ion."
Nob. 101 and 102, Strand, Siee's Divan, a large decorated room for dgars, chess,
and coffee, occupies the ate of the Fountain Tavern, noted for its political dub, and
described by Strype ; of a drawing academy, at which Conway and Wheatley were
pupils; and of the lecture-room of John Thelwall, the political elocutionist. At
Ko. 101, lived Budolph Ackermann, the printseller, who introduced Htl^ography and
" the Annuals " from Germany : here he illuminated his gallery with Cumel coal,
when gas-lighting was a novelty.
Adam^tireet presents a handsome spedmen of the embellished street-ardiitecture
introduced by the Brothers Adam.
S<diehwry-etreet and Cecil-street are built upon the site of Salisbury House, erected in
1602 by Sir Bobert Cedl, Lord High Treasurer to James L, and created Earl of Salis-
bury in 1605. His sucoeswr divided the mansion into Great Salisbury House and
Little Salisbury House : part of the latter was taken down, and upon the site was
erected Salisbury-street, rebuilt as we now see it by Paine the architect; another
portion was converted into the Middle Exchange, with shops and staUs, and a flight of
steps to the river; the latter was taken down in 1696, with Great Salisbury House,
and upon their nte was erected Cedl-street. In Little Salisbury House lived the third
Earl of Devonshire, the pupil and patron of Hobbes* who, when standing at the gate
a few days after Bestoration-day, was kindly recognised by Charles II. as he was
passing in his coach through the Strand. In Cecil-street, and at the Globe in Salis-
bury-street, lived Pftrtri<%e, cobbler, astrologer, and almanack-maker, whom Swift
humorously killed in 1708, though he actually lived till 1715; but Partridge's Alma-
nack {MerUnus laheratus) continued to be published ; and in 1728 advertised ** Dr.
Partridge's night-drops, night-pills, &c., sold as before, by his widow, at the Blue Ball
in Salbbury-street." Op^te Southampton-street lived the YaiUants, foreign book-
sellers, from 1666 until late in the last century. JFountain-couri is named fh>m the
above tavern ; at No. 8 in this court ^ed, August 27, 1827, Blake, the epic painter,
whose love of religion supported him through a life of unilorm poverty, and dioered
his death-bed.
Bavoy-etepe and Savoy-street, see Sayot, pp. 142-144, 722.
754 CURIOSITIES OF LONDON.
At No. 132, Strand (site of WeUington-street) was established in 1740 tk bL
drcalating library in London, by Wright^ who haid for his rivals Samuel Batlne 13:
John Bell. Upon the ute of No. 141 lived Jacob Tonson* tho bookseller, " ic ^au
ipeare's head, over against Catherine-street, in the Strand." The house was snccasrsj
occopied by tiie pobliBhers, Andrew Millar, Alderman Thomas Cadell, and dM c
Bavies : Millar, being a Scotchman, adopted the sign of Bachanan's Head, a pussk
of which continued in one of the window-panes to onr day. No. . 142 occupies i^
nte of the TttrJ^t Mead Coffee-house, which Dr. Johnson enoooraged; *'fet)8
mistress of it is a good civil woman, and has not mnch bnsneas." No. 143 {^
SoQthgate's Fine Arts AncUon gallery), site of the first office of the MonoMg Chr^»iei
(eee Newbfapxbs, p. 616). At No. 147 was published the Sphinx ; and Jan. 2, l^ \
No. 1 of the Athenaum, edited by James Silk Buckingham, the traveller in the £^ ;
At No. 140, long known to the ooUecton of fthells, minerals and fossils, John Mawe kept ibflp: £
hare been told shells at 62^ 101., and 20L each, now to be bought for a tkm shillings. Mr. Hswe pabuiM
his Travel* in 1k$ Dicmmtd D%$Mel<if Brazil, 1812; A TtmHm on Diamond*: and ^^^'^^S,
works on Mineralonr, Concholofy, Ac. His widow was sncceeded bj James Teanant, f.QS, rvi^t
of Mineralogy and ueology in KJng^s College, London.
S0MEB8ST House {eee pp. 736, 6). Knro's College Gatkwat {eee p. 276> ^i
162, Strand, Somerset Hotel : at the bar letters were left for the antbor of J^
No. 166, Ingli^s Warehouse for Scots Pills nntU 1865 : " I>r. Anderson's pilk. s^
by J. Inglis, now living at the Qolden Unicom, over against the ICaypola in ^
6tnnd.*''^Advertisement, 1699.
Strand-lane, leading to the Roman Bath {see pp. 37 and 716), is the ate of St^^
Bridge, "and nnder is a lane or way down to the landing-place on the banl of ^
Thames" {Stow), Eastward were Chester's Inn, Strand Inn, and the Imi of tbt
Bishop of Llandaif.
No. 169, Strand Theatre, previously Barker's Panorama {see Thsatbss).
Arundel House, eastward, originally the town-honse of the Bishopa of Batb, ve
wrested from them in the reign of Edward VI. by Lord Thomas Seymoor, ISf
AdmiraL After his execution, the honse, with messuages, tenements, and lands agjo^
ing, was purchased by Henry Fitz-Alan, Earl of Arundel, according to Strype» »
41;. 6«. M.i hence it was called Arundel Palace. Here died, 25 Feb., 1603, t^
Countess of Nottingham, after her interview with Queen Elizabeth to implore forgive
ness for having withheld from her Essex's ring. Here Thomaa Earl of Arundel beg^
to aasemble the celebrated Arundelian Marbles : the statues and busts in the g*^f7f
the mansion ; the inscribed marbles inserted in the garden- walls ; and the stataes plso»
in the garden: altogether, 37 statues, 128 busts, and 250 inscribed marbles; bes^
saroopluigi, altars, and fhigments, and the inestimable gems. The scnlptiuv «^
picture galleries are seen in the backgrounds of Van Somer's portraits of the £srl iw
his Countess.
To the Earl's ''liberal charg«i and mae:nificenoe this angle of the world oweth tlie ^^^
Greek and Boman statues, with whose admired presence he began to honour the S''^^ M^^Jvteitft
of Arundel Honse, and hath ever slnoe continu^ to transplant old Greece into England, —to^^
** March 1. 1664.— I went to Arundel House, where I saw a great number of old BoossaiMf <iJ«30
atatues, many as big asain as the lire, and divers Greek inacriptions upon stones in the P'^^,,^^
March 2.— I went to Mr. Foze's chamber in Arundel Uoose, where I saw a great many pr<^7 p^^
and things cast in brasse, some lironings, divers pretious stones, and one diamond tsIum » ^
hundred pound."— tTbamol ^Mr. B, Browns : MS. Sloan. 1906.
To Arundel House the Earl brought Hollar, who here engraved some of bis vsk^
plates. Thomas Pttrr (" Old Parr") was conveyed here from Shropshire ^^^\^
to be shown to Charles 1. : becoming domesticated in the family of the Earl of ^^
his mode of living was changed ; he fed high, drank wine, and died Nov. H ^^^
after he had outlived nine sovereigns, and during the reign of the tenth, tt ^^^
152 years and nine months : his body, by the king's command, was ^^^^^^^^^ '^
who attributed Parr's death to peripneumony, brought on by the impurity of »I'°'"*'^
atmosphere and sudden change in diet.— PAtZosoj»Aica^ Transactions, 1669.
The evidence of Parr's extreme age Is not, however, documentary; and the birth dates batf
period before Pariah Begiaters were instituted by Cromwell.— Cnwiw Beport, 1851.
Arundel House and Marbles were given back at the Restoration, in I66O1 to
STRAND. 765
^raxidaon of the earl, Mr. Henry Howard, who, at the recommendation of Selden and
Svelyn, gave the inacrihed marbles to the Univernty of Oxford; and the library to
lie Royal Society, who met at Arondel House 9 Jan., 1666-7. Evelyn records " how
)xcoedlngly the corrosive air of London impaired " the marbles. The mansion was
aken down, 1678; and upon its site were erectea Arundel, Surrey, Howard, and
^^orfolk streets. Hollar's print* shows the courtyard of Arundel House, with the
preat hall, and gabled buildings with dormer windows, but mostly low and mean.
Sally ivas lodged here at the accession of James L Surrey-Hreet : here, on the east
iide, in a large garden-house fronting the Thames, lived the Hon. Charles Howard, the
dininent chemist, who discovered the sugar-refining process in vacuo. In Surrey-street
lied William Congreve, the dramatist^ Jan. 19, 1728-9.
N'offblk'Hreet : here, in a house near the water-side, lodged Peter the Great in
1698y and was visited by King William; and thence he went in a hackney-coach to
cllne with his majesty at Kensington Palace. At the south-west comer lived William
Fenn, the quaker; and subsequently, in the same house, Dr. Birch, the historian of
the Royal Society. At No. 8, Samuel Ireland, originally a Spitalfields silk-merchant,
vrhose son, William ' Heniy Ireland, then eighteen, forged the Shakspeare Papers in
1795 : here Dr. Parr and Dr. Warton fell upon their knees and kissed the Mss.,—
** grcAt and impudent forgery," as Parr subsequently called it. In Norfolk-street also
lived Monntfort, the player ; and in Howard-street lodged Mrs. Bracegirdle, the fasci-
nating^ actress, out of an attempt to carry off whom arose a bloody duel between
Mountfort ^d Lord Mohun, when the former was killed.
Between Arundel and Norfolk streets, in 1698, lived Sir Thomas Lyttleton,
Speaker of the House of Commons ; and next door, the &ther of Bishop Burnet ; and
the boiue within memory was Burnet's, the bookseller, a collateral descendant of the
bibhop.
ArundeUatreetf *' a pleasant and conaderable street" {flatton, 1708):
" Behold that narrow itreet whidi steep desoendi,
WhoM building to the shining shore extends ;
Here Amndel's fiun'd stnotore rear'd its frun^—
The street alone retains an empty namex
Where Titian's slowing paint tne canvas warm*d.
And Baphael's uir desUni the Judgment eharm'd.
Now hangs the bellman's song, and pasted bere^
The coloured prints of Overton appear;
Where statues breath'd, the work of Phidias' hands,
A wooden pump or lonely watch-house stands."— Ga/i TrMu,
On the east nde was the Crown and Anchor Tavern, now the WniTTiKaTON Clttb
{see p. 260) ; the sign was, probably, in part taken from the anchor of St. Clement's^
opposite. Strype mentions it as "a lai^ and curious house." Here was instituted
the Academy of Ancient Music, in 1710. The great room was 84 ft. by 86 ft. 6 in. :
here, on Fox's birthday, in 1798, took place a banquet to 2000 guests. Dr. Johnson
and Boswell occasionally snpped here ; and the Royal Society dinners were held here.
The very handsome Itidian-fronted houses at the east and west comers of Arondel-
street were designed by H. R. Abraham.
No. 191, Strand, was the shop of William Godwin, bookseller, and author of CaM
WUliame, the Life of Chaucer, &c : he removed here frxnn Snow-hill.
MUford-lane is named from a ford over the Thames at the extremity, and a wind-
flitV/ in the Strand, near the site of St. Mary's Church, and shown in a print temp,
James I. {See Chron. London Bridge, p. 895) : there is also a token of ** the Wind-
mill, withovt Temple Bar." Sir Richard Baker, the chronicler, lived in Milford-lane,
1632-9. (Cunningham's Sandbook, p. S37.) The picturesque tenements on the east
side. Strand end of the lane, principdly of wood, with bay-windows, are described in a
deed, date 1694 : they were taken down in 1852, and the site is now occupied by
*< Milford Houses" the office of The Ilhutraied London Netoe. The nte of the
Infants' Schools lower down in the lane was that of the old Beetory-houae.
^. * Hollar's View of London f^om the roof of Arandd Hoose is very rires sa Impreasioo st Sir Mark
Vasterman Sykes's sale, in 1824^ sold for 112. In a Household Book of Lord WiUIam Howard (Belted
will) are ** his expenses whilst Urtng at Arundel House; and amongst them a pajment to Vr. ' Shak-
■peare^' the parish soavenger."— ^OetMraa^ No. 1408.
766 cxmiosiTma of lokdon.
Id Milford'laiie it the Piintliig^fllM of H. D. WoodlUl, wliose grsodlkther. in Patemogter-rov. !•«
printed Jumnuf* Lttttrt, The buiiness was first established about the year 1720, in GrocosT BaU«a:rt
and in AngeUcoort^ Sklnner-ftreet, George WoodfiUl printed his edition otJummsTs Letien, S Tab.9v^
the first book printed there. The latter oflloe was taken down in 1806.
JSneX'Hreet and I>ef>ereux-emuri, formerly the Outer Temple, are named from Sober.
Dererenx, Earl of Essex, Queen Elizabeth's last favourite. The groand was leased by
the Knights of St. John of Jerusalem to the Bishops of Exeter, who built here a to«s>
house, in which they lived till the Reformation, when it passed to William Lord Biget-
next to Thomas Howard, Duke of Norfolk, son of the poetic Earl of Surrey; to Dud^^,
Earl of Leicester ; and then to his step-son, the Earl of Essex : henoeit wss snoeesRvdj
called Exeter House, Paget House, Norfolk House, Ldcester House, and £s8ex Hone.
But the chief memory of the place is associated with Essex and his abortire pnjas
for the overthrow of Elizabeth's government : he fortified the houses but was hgmayi^
in on all sides, artillery bdng planted against the manaon, and a gun mounted npoathe
tower of St. Clement's, when Essex and his followers surrendered. Here waa bom sad
married his luckless son, whose infamous countess was implicated in the poisooing of S^
Thomas Overbuiy. Pepys describes Essex House as " large but ugly :" it mis tenanteii
by persons of rank till after the Restoration, when it was subdivided and let. Tbe
Cottonian Library was kept here from 1712 to 1730, in the portion of the boose npaa
the site of the present Enex-street Chapel {tee p. 220). At the Essex Mead Tav«^
now No. 40, Dr. Johnson established, the year before he died, a club called *' Sam'v
from the landlord, Samuel Oreaves» who had been servant to Mr. Thrale. In tLj
street also was held the Robin Hood Sodety, a debating dub, the soeneP of Burke's
earliest eloquence ; (Goldsmith was also a member.
At the bottom of the street is the archway of the water>gate of Essex Honse. In a view <^ fte
Thames, showing the Frost Fair, in the reign of Charles II., the King, Qoeen, and others of the e^crt.
are seen eoming down the Temple Garden stairs, to witness the sports on the ice ; and in imrt of ^
bsdtgroand is the archway, and bevond the archway are the gables and other porta of Essex Hosae. A
garden, with terraces, Ib between me arch and the river.
No. 213, Strand, was Qeorge^s Coffee-house {see p. 264). 2)evereuX'eowre .• here was
the Qrecian Coffee-house {see p. 264). No. 217, Strand, was the boose of Snow, ^
wealthy goldsmith :
" Disdain not. Snow, my humble verse to hoar;
Stick thy black pen awhile behind thy ear.
• •••••
O thon, whose penetrative wisdom fonnd
The South-sea rocks and shelves, where thousand drowa'dl
When credit sunk, and commerce gasping lay.
Thou stood'st, nor sent one bill unpaid away.
When not a gdnea chink'd on M aran*s boards.
And Atwell's self was drain'd of all his hoarda.
Thou stood'st (an Indian king in size uid hue):
Thy unexhansted shop was our Peru."— G<qr.
The firm, originally Snow and Walton, was one of the oldest banking-hossi
in London, second only to Child and Co., who date from 1640. At the period of the
Commonwealth, Snow and Co. carried on the business of pawnbrokers, under the sga
of the " Golden Anchor." The firm possessed a book, dated 1672, showing that the mode
of kee^nng accounts was then in decimals. The banking-firm, subsequently S^^dna
(Sir John Dean), Paul, and Bates suspended payment in 1855.
Falsgrave-plaoe was the site of Palstave Head Tavern, set up in oompliment to the
Palsgrave Frederic, afterwards King of Bohemia, affianced to the Princess Elizabeth in
the old banqueting-house at Whitehall, Dec. 27, 1612. Hard by was Heycoek*s Or^
dinary, much frequented by Parliament-men and gallants.
Tehfle Bab will be described hereafter. The west ade, until numbered with the
Strand, was called on tokens, *' Without Temple Barr."
STSAin) : NoBTH Side. — ^No. 238 was the last of the " Bulk shops," and waa kefyt
by Crockford, the fishmonger ; removed in 1846 {see a sketch of him, at p. 247).
Ship-yard was the site of the Ship Inn, mentioned in a grant to Sir Cbristoplier
Hatton in 1551. There is a token of the tavern, date 1649 ; and it was standing is
1756. John Reynolds^ a cook, issued a token (a fi>x stealing a goose) in Ship-yard in
1666. An old house, engraved in Wilkinson's Londina lUustrata, ia stated to have
8TBA2W. 767
een the rwidence of KliAs Aibmole, the antiquary. Faithorae ptihlished his Art of
Travinff and Etching "at his shop next to y« signe of the Drake, without Temple barr,
662." In the Strand, besides the Ship, were the Swan, the Croton, the Sobin Hood,
he White Hart, the Bear and Harrow, the Holy Lamb, and the Angel, Sir John
)enham, the poet, when a student at Lincoln's Inn, in 1635, in a drunken frolic, with
pot of ink and a plasterer's brash, blotted out all the sig^u between Temple Bar and
Glaring Cross, which cost Denham and his comrades '* some monies." — J. H Bum.
From opposite Ship-yard extended an obtuse-angled triangle of buildings, the eastern
ine formed by the vestry-room and almshouses of St. Clement's, and the sides by shops;
he whole called Butcher-row, from a flesh market granted here 21 Edward I., at first
hambles, but subsequently houses of wood and plaster; one of these, a five-storied
loase, temp, James ]., was inhabited by Count Beaumont, the French court ambassador:
lere the Duke de Sully was lodged for one night in 1608, until " the palace of Arandel"
x>uld be prepared for him. Beaumont's house-front bore roses and crowns and flcurs-de-
18, and the date 1581. From a Bear and Harrow orgy, Nat Lee, the dramatic poet^
ns returning to Duke-street, when he fell, "overtaken with wine," in Clare-market,
md died. Here also was Clifton's eatinghouse^ a dining-plaoe of Dr. Johnson. But-
:her-row was removed in 1802, when were built the oppoute crescent-like houses, named
EHcket-street from the projector of the improvement, Alderman Picket. During the
lewers* works, eastward of the church, at several feet depth, was discovered an ancient
rtone bridge of one arch. The almshouses were removed in 1790 ; here is a well 190
feet deep.
In a house fai Botcher-row, esst of Clemeiit's Inn, by the confession of Winter, he, with Catoaby,
MTright, and Guy Fawkes. met, and there administered the oath of sooresy to the conspirators, and aiter>
varos received the sacrament in the next room.— 2n« Qunpowdtr Treaum, reprinted 1679.
The Foregate led to Clskskt's iKir and Clemenfe-lane, where lived Sir John Trevor,
eounn to Lord Chancellor Jeffreys, and twice Speaker of the House of Commons. Boe-
weU'Court occupied the site of a manaon of a Mr. Boswell; here lived Lady Baleigh,
the widow of Sir Walter; Lord Chief Justice Lyttleton, and Sir Richard and Lady
Fanshawe. In New-eourt was the Independents' chapel of Burgess, Bradbury, and
Winter. The houses from Temple Bar to beyond Clement's Inn were taken down in
1867 for the ate of the New Law Courts {see p. 510).
St, Clemenfe Vestrg-hall, Picket-street, contains the altar-piece (St. Cedlia) painted
by Kent for St. Clement's Church, whence it was removed, in 1725, by order of Bishop
Gibson, on the supposition that the picture contained portraits of the Pretender's wife
uid children : it was first removed to the Orovm and Anchor taoem, and next to the
old vestry room (see St. Clxmxnt'b Davbb, p. 158.)
Wydk^^treet, leading to Drury-lane (see p. 815) : the south side retains some pic-
turesque house-frtmts. Oppoute is Nzw Ink (p. 473).
HoUfweU-tireet is named from one of the holy springs which Fitzstephen described
as " sweete, wholesomei, and deere ; and much frequented by scbollars and youth of
the citie in summer evenings, when they walk forth to take the aire." The " holy well"
is stated to be that under the Old Dog tavern. No. 24. Here was the old entrance to
Lyon's Inn. Holywell-street was, in Strype's time, inhabited by ** divers salesmen and
inece-brokcrs," who have nearly deserted it : two of their signs long remained ; the Indian
queen, said to have been painted by Catton, B.A. ; and a boldly-carved and gilt crescent
moon. The street is now tenanted by dealers in old clothes, keepers of book-stalls, and
publishers and vendors of cheap and low books: a few lofty gabled and bayed house*
tronts remain. NewecutU'etreet (formerly Magpye-alley) was named from the g^und-
landlord, John Holies, Duke of Newcastle. No. 813 Strand, was formerly the One
Bell livery-stables. The TatUr, March 9, 1710, announced a stage-coach " twice a
week from the One BeU in the Strand to Dorchester, the proper time for writing pas-
torals now drawing near."
No. 817, comer of Drury-court, is thought to be the loeality of " the Forge in St.
Clement's Danes," referred to in the account of the Shrievalty Tenure custom, at
pp. 508-509 ; namely, the site of the forge of a farrier, the father of Nan Clargea^
afterwards Duchess of Albemarle. Aubrey {Life of Monk, 1680), says : '* The shop is
still of that trade ; the comer-shop, the first turning on ye right hand as yea come out
768 OUBIOSITJOES OF LONDON.
of the Strand into Brary-licne : the hooae is now hoilt of hrick." To this Mr.
ley, in lus Londiniana, 1829, adds a conjectoral MS. note : ** the bonae alhidod to k
probahly, that at the right hand comer of Little Drory-lane, now a 1mtd)er*s. azA
whitened over." Carioosly enough, the house in the coorty next the conker bsae,
No. 317, has been for ▼ex7 many years that of a whitesmith, with its ibi^ge.
"Where Dniry-Isne deaoendi into the Strand"
" the Maypole in the Strand," was raised by the fimrier to commemorate his danghtErf
good fortune.
Tkt MttvpoU wt np st the Bestontion was oooTeyed to thle spot, April 14, 1661, wifli gnat oeres.-c
a streamer floarishinf before it, and drams uid trum^ta, and the accLamatioiis of ttie people. Ti^
Haypole, 134 feet hkfn, was in two pieces, which being joined toi^ether uid hooped with iron, the etcwi
and yane, and the iinc's arms, richly gilded, were placed on the head of it; and a lazee top, tiU i
baleonj, about the midale of it It was raised by twenre seamen, *' by cables, pudlies, and wter tK^hab.
with B& great anchors ;" and *' in four hoars' space it was adTanoed uprifht, as near haxid as thej ec^i
guess where the former one stood: bnt far more glorions, bigger, and higher than erer any ocf :^
stood before it" It was, however, brolten by a high wind abont 1678; and thi
the remaining poetii», boar
Several traders' and tavern tokens hear on the reverse this Maypole, with a EmaS
building at the foot. Where St. Mary's Church now is, was the first stand for hackner-
coaches, erected in 1634; after the church was built, the stand was remored a skft
distance westward, and lasted until March, 1853.
No. 332, Ifominff Chronicle Office, was formerly the While jSican taoem. Here,
in a lodging, to be near his patron, the Earl of Clarendon, in Somerset House, Ered
Dr. William King, who wrote the Art of Cookery, a poem, &c. He was the £rieod of
Swift. King was luxurious and improvident, and died in poverty in 1712, in the
above house. There is a token of the White Swan in the Beanfby collection, and tbe
sign post, with its swinging sig^-board, with a decorated iron frame, is shown ni
June's ludicrous, but scarce, print of the Lady's Disaster, 1746. At No. 940, Strasd,
July 15, 1845, died John Augustine Wade, the popular lyric poet and mnaical compceo.
Catherine-Hreet : on the west was New Elxeter 'Change, designed by Sydisj
Smirke, with house-fronts temp. James I. {eee p. 20) ; now the site of the Stsaxd
Musio HiXL (ms p. 608). BrydgeS'Street, Ihrury-lane Theatre. No. 346 Strazid,
Doily's Warehouse^ rebuilt in fandAil Italian style, by Beazley, in 1838, ocscopies the
site of Wimbledon House, built by Sir Edward Cedl, and burnt down in 1628. Dtt-
den names '* Doily petticoats;" Steele had "a Doily suit" {Ouardian^ No. 102); and
Gay a *'Doily habit" {Trivia, book i.); and Doily introduced the small wine-gbai
napkin which still bears his name.
WieUington-etreet North: on the west side is the Lyceum Theatre, reboilt bf
Beasley. In Exeter-etreet, at a staymaker's, was the first London lodging of Dr.
Johnson (1737), where he lived upon 4j<2. per day. When Dr. Johnson first came to
London with his pupil Garrick, they borrowed five pounds, on their joint note^ of Mr.
Wilcocks, the bookseller. Strand.* " Near the Savoy in the Strand," east of Exeter
'Change, was the Canary House, probably also Cary House, noted for its sack *'witL
abrioot flavour" (Dryden's Wild Gallant, 1669); and Pepys mentions '^Caiy House,
a house of entertainment." At No. 352 Strand wis bom, Jan. 29, 1798, Henry Neei^
the poety the son of the able map and heraldic engraver. At No. 355, John Lim*
bird commenced publishing the Mirror, No. 1, Nov. 2, 1822. Westward was Exeees
'Changs, described at p. 335.
" On the demolition of the boilding fai 1880, the writer nw, cat in the itcDe architrave above the
window at the eait end, ' Exxxsa Caures. 1670,' a date mncfa earlier in its adaptation than in geBanHj
■uppoied.*'— J*. S. Bum,
In one of the offices abutting on the 'Change was published the lAterairy CfasetU,
No. 1, Jan. 25, 1817. SxeteT'-etreet and BwrUigh-^treet are named firom their being
* The followinff were Dr. Johnion's piscee of reddenoe in and near London: 1. Exeteratrect ^
CatherineHitreet, strand {VJVl). 2. Greenwich (1737). 8. Woodstock-street, near Haaovcr-eqaan
(173^. 4. CMt]e-etreet,Oavendish-eqnare,No.6(1788). 6. Strand. 6. Boewell-court. 7. Stnadunia
8. Bow-street 9. Holbom. 10. Feiter*lane. 11. Holbom again (at the Golden Anchor, Hcdboni bk%»
1748). 12. Gooffh-equare, No. I7'(l748). IS. Staple Inn (1768). 14. Gray's Inn. IS. Inncr-Tespie'
lane. No. 1 (1700). 16. Johnson's-conrt, Fleet-street* No. 7 (1766). 17. Bolt-cooit^ Ftoet-straet, Nd^S
(1776).— iS9« Bo8weU*s W'
TATTEBSALL'S. 769
parts of the nto of Borldgh and Exeter House. No. 872, Strand, Exstsb Hau^
IB described at p. 834.
SouihampUm-^treet was named in compliment to Lady Bachel, daughter of Thomas
Wriotbesley, Earl of Southampton, and wife of William Lord Russell. Near the foot
of the street stood Bedford Hoose, the town mansion of the Earl of Bedford : it was
principally built of wood, and remained till 1704; the garden extended northward, its
wall bounding CSovent Garden Market. In Southampton-street is a bar-gate ; the
Bake of Bedford having power to erect Ivalls and gates at the end of every thorough-
fare on his estate. Bedford^ireet occupies part of the site. Between these streets^
east and west, is Maiden-lane, where, in a second floor, lodged Andrew Marvell, M.P.
for Hull, when he refused a treasury-order for 1000/. brought to him by Lord Danby
from the King. At a perruquier's, with the sign of the White Peruke, lodged Voltaire
during part of his three years' residence in England. Some of his correspondence with
Swift is dated from this house.
At No. 26^ Haiden-httu^ eomer of Haod-eoart was born, in 1773, J. M. W. Tnmer, RJl^ the land-
scape-painter. His (kther was a hair^reawr ; and the painter, when a boy, coloured prints for John B.
Smiih, of Maiden-lane, a mexzotinto engraver. Turner removed to apartments in Hand^conrt, in
the Lane^ and during his residence here he exhibited at the Boyal Academy flflj-nine pictures.
Opposite was the Cyder Cellar, opened about 1780 : a curious tract, Adventure$
XTndergrtmnd, 1750, oontaina strange notices of this ** midnight concert-room" (Noieg
and Queries, No. 28) : it was a haunt of Professor Person's. At No. 867, Strand, lived
Dcville, the lamp-manufacturer, and student of phrenology: when young he was
employed by Nollekens, the sculptor, to make for him casts from moulds ; which shows
the phrenologitt to have early developed his abilities in this direction. At No. 486,
the Queen'g Head public-house, lodged Thomas Parr, when he was brought to Lon-
don to be shown to Charles I. ; as stated to J. T. Smith, in 181^ by a person then
aged 90, to whom the house was pointed out by his grandfather, nien 88.
No. 411, Strand, the Adelphi Theatre^ Beazley architect {see Theatbzs). No. 429,
built for tiie Westminster Fire and Life Insurance Office, by Cockerell, R.A., had a
facade of great originality : the figures (aqucmi) over the principal windows beauti-
fully characteristic. No. 430, West Strand commences: King^Witliam'ttreet denotes
the reign in which the improvements were made {see CHABiva Cfioss Hospitai^
p. 436). No. 487, LowTHXS Abcadb {see p. 20).
No. 448, Slectric Telegraph Office. Upon the roof is the Eleetrio Time Signal
JBall, completed in June^ 1852, when the following were its details :—
The signal constats of a sine ball, 6 feet in diameter, supported by a rod, which passes down the
centre of the column, and carries at its base a piston, which. In its descent, plunges into a cast-Iron air-
cylinder; the escape of the air being resulated so as at pleasure to check the momentum of the ball,
and prevent concussion. The raising of the ball half-mast high takes place daily at lOminutea to 1 ; at
6 minutes to 1 it is raised to its full height; and at 1 precisely, and shnultaneoualy with the fldl of the
ball at Greenwich, it is liberated by the galvanic current sent from the Obeerratory through a wire laid
for that purpose. The same galvanic current which liberates the ball in the Strand, moves a needle
upon the transitHdock at the Observatory : the time occupied bT the transmission being sbout l-9000th
part of a second; and by the unloosing of the machinery which supports the ball, less than one-fifth
Ixirt of a aecond. The true moment or 1 o'clock is, therefore, indicated by the first aonearance of the
ioe of light between the dark cross over the ball and the hoaj of the ball itself. In the event of acci-
dental Ikilare at 1 o'clock, the ball is raised half-mast high, and dropped at 2 o'clock. When ftilly raised
the ball Is 128 feet above the level of the Thames, and fUls 10 feet.
No. 462, the Oolden Cross Hotel : the old coaching inn stood farther west. « I
often," says Lamh, "shed tears in the motley Strand, for ftdness of joy at so much
life." {Letters, voL L)
TATTEBSALL'S,
THE celebrated sporting rendezvous and auction mart for horses, known as the
" Comer" (t.e., at Hyde Park Comer), in the rear of St. George^s Hospital, and
approached from Qrosvenor-place, was established by Richard Tattersall, in 1766, who
teased the ground, then an open place between Piccadilly and the hamlet of Knights-
bridge, from Earl Grosvenor. Tattersall, who had been stud-groom to the second and
last Doke of Kingston, in 1779, founded his fortune by purchasing from Lord Boling^
broke, then in difficulties, the celebrated stud-horse. Highflyer. Tattersall had pro-
riously sold off the Bnke of Kingston's stud; and an ii\junction was applied for
8 D
770 auBioaiTiEa of Lomx)N.
December 14^ 1774^ to reetnun payment of the money to the DoeheM^ then vnier
indictment. Tattemll is alladed to in the BeU^t Stratagem, first perfermed 17K:
" Flatter : Oh, yes ! I itopped at TattemlVs as I came by, and there I fioond Lofd
James Jesnamy, Sir William Wilding/' Ac The Prince of Wales w«s a eonstact
patron of Tattenall's, where was a bcBt of his Royal Highness in his eigrbfceenth year.
Here the Jockey Clnb erected their dnb-boose, elaborately decorated bj Italian artists:
the Dnke of Qoeensbnry (" Old Q.") and Selwvn were members of the chib. Ridtard
Tattersall, of whom two portraits exist, died January 20, 1795, aged 72; he was suc-
ceeded in his business by his only son Edmund, who carried it on nntH bis deaUi, Ji^
28, 1810 : his son, Edmund, who founded the fordgn trader then snooeeded ; wba»
dying Doc 11, 1861, the buiness came to its present proprietor. In 1852; TatteraaU'i
annual average of hones brought to the hammer was estimated at 45,0002. ; there
were 97 stalls and IS loose boxes, or standing for 110. In the oonntang-hooae hon;
the regulations, dated 1780. The owner of a Derby winner some ibw years back had
to receive about 70,000^ from the Ring, and on the settling-day it was in the hands of
his bankers, with the exception of very few hundreds. On show and sale days the
^q[>lay of horses was often very fine. The *' Book-making" before the Derby or St
Leger was crowded with peers and plebeians, butchers and brokers, betting-bst
keepers^ insurers, guardsmen and prize-fighters, Manchester manufactmrers, Yorkshire
fimners, sham captains, ei-devant gentlemen, Ac. In " the Room," which was rept-
lated by the Jockey Club, was a cartoon of the race-horse " Edipse." We have seen a
clever painting, by Aiken, of the horse-auction at Tattersall's. The lease of the dd
premises expired in 1866 ; fine fruit had been grown in the gardens, whence were sop-
plied, for many years, the grapes and pines for the Waterloo Banquet, at Apdey House.
In 1864, Tattersall's was removed to newly-erected premises between the junctsoa
of the Brompton and Knightsbridge roads, which is much nearer to the great quartv
of fiuhion and wealth than Hyde Park-oomer was at the beginning of the preaeot
century. The New Tattersall's is described at p. 491.
Tittcnall'ilfl the grestostmartlbrhorMi in the world. Bales tskepUoe here ewy Monday tln«Migk>
oat the year, and In tne height of the aeaeon on Thoredar also. As many as UO lota have been ofoel
in one day ; the aversffe number 100. The proprietors, the Messrs. Tattersall's, also seU amiaaDT (he
prodnee of the Bojal Breeding Eetablishment at Hampton Court Paddocks, and other tboaooghM
prodnoe; also stods of raoe-horses at York, Doncaster, and Newmaxket daring the radnff aeaaaB; aodta
them are asoally entrasted the sale of packs of hounds. The highest price ever psdd fiv a bone tf
Messrs. Tattersall's of late Tears was 3100 gs. for Orlando; and the hJgMst pries far a pack of hoRBad^
the property of O. Oshalderton, Esq., aooogs.
TELEGRAPHS, ELECTEIC.
rE Electro-tdegrapnic syBtem in London has been carried out by the Electrk
Telegraph Company, at their Central Office in Lothbnry, which has thus become
the metropolis of stations. Here the whole system was fint dearly exhibited ; the
Company having purchased all Cooke and Wheatstone's patents, and adopted ther
peculiar features, — ^the suspended conducting -wire and the Double Needle Tel^;raph ;
and, in certain cases, Mr. Bain's chemical Printing Telegraph. The OiBoe is in
Founders'-couzt, on the north side of the Bank of England ; where anciently dwelt
foundert "that cast candlesticks, chafing-dishes, spice-mortars," Ac, and "turned
them bright with the feet, making a loathsome noise, whence the name of I/oth-deri^
or court " {Stow) ; all which is strikingly contrasted with the wonder-working alenos
of the Electric Telegraph operations.
The entrance to the office is bold and picturesque : above the doorway is a baksooy ;
and between two enriched Ionic pilasters, carrying an arched pediment, is the lai^
transparent dial of an electric dock. Tou first enter a hall 42 by S2 feet, entir^
lighted from the coved roof of plate>glass in panels. At the east and west ends is a
screen of two stories; both communicating with the apartments in which are tbe
dectric-tdegraph machines, and the two ends are connected by side»galleries, there
being thus two railed stories or galleries throughout the hall ; at eadi end, below, are
counters^ where derks, who receive the messages^ enter them, and pass them to
another set of derks, who transmit them to those employed at the machines above by
liffai or small trays, working by cords in square tubei^ — a lift and beU to each deski
TELEOBAPHS, ELEOTBIO. 771
Behind the eoanter is the " translating office," where all messages are transferred into
the abbreviated code arranged by the Company. Snch messagpes as descriptions of
persons suspected of dishonesty are not translated, bat sent in fall : only the lists of
prices in com, share, and other markets are so abbreviated.
Several wires are laid to each terminus, lest any of them become defective, when the
connexion can be carried on by other wires^ as the expense of taking up the pavement
would be enormous for so slight a cause. The wires are of copper, and are covered
with gutta-percha, India-rubber, or some resinous substances, which, being non-con-
ductors, prevent the escape of the electridty. The wires from the several railway
termini are brought through Iron pipes laid down nnder the pavement of the streets ;
and meeting in Founders'-coart^ are continued through the south wall of the basement
of the station, and descending into the " test-box," are fastened thero to pegs fitted
into the back of the box. At the bottom run a corresponding number of " house-
wires," and these go to the machines in the galleries. CSonnexion is maintained
between the line and house-wires by small wires runiung perpendicularly from one to
the other. AU the wires are numbered at the desks to correspond from batteries to
machines, and from machines to the test-box, that the electric circle may thns be
complete. In the galleries the wires aro carried along the ceilings from the respectire
machines to the battery-chambers and the test-box; the battery-wires running east
and west, and the house-wires to test-box north and south. Several long and narrow
chambers are devoted to the batteries, which aro so numbered and arranged in
reference to the wires, that any defect can be immediately rectified. Each railway
has a division to itself, and thus all risk of confusion is avoided. The communications
aro spelt through letter by letter, and each word is verified by the receiver to the
sender as the message proceeds.
In 1851, the Admiralty Semaphores wero removed, and the Electric Telegraph sub-
stituted for them. By this means, despatches can be sent off and received by night or
day, and in any kind of weather; whereas, the Semaphores could only work by day,
and that in fine weather : this was a great inconvenience to Government, especially
the naval department^ which had only one line, from the Admiralty, Whit^all, to
Fortsmontb ; whilst now, orders can be transmitted in a moment to the Royal
arsenals. In 1851, the Needle Telegraph of Wheatstone was carried round the Qreat
Exhibition Building in Hyde Park, and thence to the Police Station, Qreat Scotland-
yard, Whitehall. And in 1852, the exact Greenwich time was first oonv^ed by the
Electric Telegn^h to various psdrts of England.
Besides the private message department, there is a genertl intelUgenee offloeb in whioh the news
Eabliflhed in the momfaigjoiiriials is condensed and trannnitted to the Exchanses of Liverpool, BristoL
[anchester, Olauow, and other chief provincial centres of bosiness. Daring the daj the London and
>ther news is ooltected, condensed, and transmitted to the offices of npwards of 40O provincial papers*
vbichthus receive, daring the nignt before their pablication, the most recent intelligence of every sort
•eceived by telegraph from all ports of Europe, besides the current news of the United Kingdom to the
atest moment.
There are also curioos special arrangements : thns, a wire is exdosively anpropriated to oommonioa-
Ions between the Octagon Hall of the Hooses of Parliament and the telegraphic station in St. James's-
rtreet, the centre of the West-end clubs. This is a eall-wif^ for Members. The Company employ
■eporters during the sitting of Parliament to make an abstract of the business of the two Houses as ft
vrooeeds; this is fonrardeu, at very short intervals, to the office in St James's^Creet, where U it $H
tp and printed i and this flying^sheet is sent to the principal clubs and to the Boyai Italian Opera. The
iovemment whres go from Somerset House to the Admiralty, and thence^ in one direction, to Porta-
nooth and Plymouth br the South Western and Qreat Western Bailways; and in the other to the naval
Atablishments at DepUbrd, Woolwich, Chatham, Sheemess, and to the Cinque Ports of Deal and Dover,
rhey are worked by a staff provided by the telegraph companies, and the more Important messages aro
isually sent in cipher, the mou&inff of which u unknown even to the telegraphic clerks employed in
ransmitting it. In addition to tne wires already spoken of; street branches run from Buckingham
*' The Nerves of London*' is Wheatstone's system of wires which may be seen stretching
cross the sky-line of great thorongh&res, and visibly triangnlating the town in every
irection ; and along which, by a simplified apparatus, messages are sent at the rate of
00 letters a minute. The system of fine copper is hung on the iron wires, strained
rom poles from the house-tops. At intervals carefully selected, the area of London is
ivideid by a system of triangulation, the posts that form the meeting-points of three
aries of cables becoming the pdnts at which all these wires have to be distributed.
3 D 2
772 CUBI08ITIE8 OF LONDON.
TEMPLE, INNER AND MIDDLE. {See pp. 461-464.)
TEMPLE BAE,
BETWEEN tbe east end of the Stnnd and tbe west end of Fleet-otreetp divides t]ie
est J of London from the liberty of Westminster; or rather, '*it opens i^
immediately into the City itaelf (which terminated at Ludgate), bat into the liberty
or freedom thereof*' (NatUm, 1708). The original division from Uie ooantj (heoce
Shire-lane) was by posts and rails, a chain, and a bar (as at Holbom, Smithfield, aisl
Wlutechapel bars) placed across the street, and named frx)m its immediate vicinity to
the Temple, The bar gave place to "a boose of timber" rused across the stred;
with a narrow gateway ondemeath, and an entrance on the south ade under the bocse
above. At the coronation of Queen Mary, " the Temple-barre was newly iMrint4^ and
hanged" {Stow). This was taken down after the Great Fire, and it is aihown is
Hollar's seven-dieet Map of London ; and in the Bird's-eye View, about 1601. After
the Great Fire, Charles II. insisted upon the citizens taking down the Bar, whes
they, pleading their " weak state and inability," on account of the great ezpeos of
rebuilding public ediBoes consumed in the Great Fire, tbe King promised to assist thera
with funds; the Corporation undertook the work ; the old Bar was aooordisgly taken
down, and the present Bar erected by Sir Christopher Wren, of Port]and-stane» but
the royal promise was not performed. The Bar basement is rusticated ; it has a lai^
flattened arch in the centre for the carriage-way, and a smaller semicbrcolar aich on
each side for foot-passengers. Each &fade has four Corinthian inlasters, an entabktnm,
and arched pediment. On the west, in two niches* are statues of Charles I. and
Charles II. in Roman costume ; and over the keystone of the centre arch were the
royal arms: on the east, in similar niches, are statues of James I. and bis queei^
Anne of Denmark (often described as Elizabeth) ; and over the keystone were the Gty
arms. Inscription :
** Erected in the year 1670, Sir Sanrael Starllnff Mayor: oanUnoed in the year 1671, Sr Biefaard Ford
Lord Mayor ; and flniehod In the year 1672, Sir George Waterman Lord M^yoz.**
The upper portion has two bold cartouches, or scrolls, as supporters; but the fruit
and flowers sculptured in the pediment, and the supporters of tbe royal armi^ which
were placed over the extremities of the xxMtems (now widened), have disappear^ ;
the inscription is scarcely legible; and the stone- work of the whole is weather-wtaa:
in 1852 the Common Conned refused to spend 1500Z. to restore the bar as Wren left
it. . The statues are by John Bushnell, who died in 1701 ; that of Charles I. has kss
the baton. A scarce print shows the bar, and the adjdning gabled houses at the oom-
mencement of the 18th century. In the centre of each facade is a seoucircukr-
headed window, lighting an apartment now held of the City, at the annual rent of
60/., by Messrs. Child, the bankers, as a depository for thdr account-books. Above
the centre of the pediment, upon iron spikes, were formerly placed the heads and limbi
of persons executed for treason. The first of these revolting displays was one of tbe
quarters of Sir Thomas Armstrong, implicated in the Bye-House Plot ; and next the
quarters of Sir William Perkins and Sir John Friend* and Perkins's head, who had
conspired to assassinate William III.
** April 10, 1696u— A diamal sight, wbich many pitied. I think there never wia sack a Temple Skr
tOl now, except in the time of King Charles 11., viz. Sir Thomas Armstrong."— Evelyn's Diarj,
After the Bebellions of 1715 and 1745, the heads of some of the victims were placed
upon tbe Bar ; and in 1723, the head of Counsellor Layer, who had oonspred for the
restoration of the Pretender; Layer's head remained here for 80 years, till blown
down in a gale of wind, when it was picked up in the street by an attorney. But tbe
heads last set up here were those of Townley and Fletcher, the rebels, in 1746. Walpde
writes, August 16, 1746 : " I have been this morning at the Tower, and passed under
the new heads at Temple Bar, where people make a trade of letting spying-glasses at a
halfpenny a look ;" and in 1825, a person, aged 87, remembered the above heads being
seen with a telescope from L^cester Fields, the ground between which and Temple Bar
was then thinly built over. (J. T. SmUh.) In 1766 a man ?ras detected diachaiging
THAMES EMBAI^KMENT. 778
mnsket-ballB, from a steel croes-bow, at tbese two beads ; wbicb, bowever, remained
tbere mitil March 81, 1772, when one of the beads fell down ; and shortly after, the
remaining one was swept down by the wind.* The Bar was painted by Booker in
1772. The last of the iron poles, or spikes, was not removed from the Bar nntU the
commencement of the present centnry. Mr. Rogers, the banker-poet, who died
December 18, 1855, remembered '*one of the heads of the rebels npon a pole at
Temple Bar, a black, shapeless lamp. Another pole was bare, the head having dropped."
The old gates of Temple Bar remain : they are of oak, panelled, and are surmounted
by a mdely carved festoon of frnit and fiowers. These gates were originally shut at
night, and guarded by watchmen ; and in our time they have been closed in cases of
upprehended tumult. Upon the visit of the Sovereign to the City, and upon the procla-
mation of a new Sovereign, or of Peace, it was formerly customary to keep the gates
closed, until admission was formally demanded; the gates were then opened; and upon
the Royal visit, the Lord Mayor surrendered the City sword to the Sovereign, who
re-delivered it to his Lordship.
At Temple Bar the above ceremony was observed when Queen Elisabeth proceeded to St Paul's to
return thanks fbr the defbat of the Spanish Armada; when Palrflaz and Cromwell aod the Parliament
weiit in state to dine with the City ; when Queen Anne went to St. Paul's to retom thanks for the Dnke
or Marlborongh's victories; when Queen Victoria dined at Gnildhall in the year of her accession, 1837 1
and when her Majesty went to open the New Boyal Exchanire in ISM; bat on Uie Qneen's visit in 1861,
the ceremony at Temple Bar was entirely dispensed with. The cnstom at the Proclamation of Peace, or
the Accession of the SoTereign, had been for a herald, attended br tmmpeters. to knock with his baton
at the closed gate, when the City Marshal Inquired ** Who comes tnere ?" and the herald havin^r replied,
was admitted, and conducted to the Lord Mayor, who directed that the whole of the cavalcade riioiud be
admitted ; and the prodamation was read opposite Chancery-lane. Such waa the observance npon the
accession of George IV ^ William IV., and Queen Victoria. In 1844 the ceremony consisted merely of
closing the gates Jost before the royal procession reached the Bar, and re-opening them upon the
announcement of the Qneen's arrival.
At the funeral of the Duke of Wellington, November 18, 1852, Temple Bar was
entirely covered with draperies of black doth and velvet, and dotb-of-gold ; decorated
with the armorial bearings and orders of the Duke in proper colours ; silvered cor-
nices, fringe, urns, and a drde of flambeaux upon the pediment ; the whole presenting
an impressive effect of solemn triumph and gloomy grandeur. The Bar was appro-
priately decorated and illuminated at the marriage of the Prince of Wales and the
Princess Alexandra of Denmark, Mardi, 186S.
THAMES EMBANKMENT.
TO the Romans we are indebted for the first embankment of the Thames; and^
according to Tadtus, they pressed the Britons into the work. The maintenance
and repair of these embankments have been traced to the rdgn of Edward I. ; but the
encroachments of wharfs and other buildings have materially contracted the water-way
immediately through the centre of the metropolis ; so that the only relic of the old line
is to be seen adjoining Waterloo Bridge. For example : the distance of the river front
from Westminster Hall, hi an old plan, is 100 feet; it is now 800 feet. Several plans
were proposed for the embankment of the Thames ; some induding nulways, arcade^
terraces, promenades, &c. The portions already embsiiked are the terraces of the Custom
House, Somerset House* the Adelphi, the New Houses of Parliament, Thames Bank ;
although, more than a century and a half since, Wren designed *' a commodious quay
on the whole bank of the river, from BUckiriars to the Tower." A showy architectnral
plan was published by Colonel Trench; and in 1845, John Martin, the painter^
designed a railway along both sides of the Thames, with an open walk from Hunger-
ford to the Tower, and from Yanxball to Deptford. The next portion was the embank-
nient above Vauxhall Bridge, to be continued to Battersea Bridge.
The Embankment, J. W. Bazalgotte, engineer, is now in course of oonstmction by
the Metropolitan Board of Works, on the north side.
The fonndations are laid npon a connected line of iron ealseons sad oonerete, upon which la built tlM
brick granlte-flwed embankment*waU ; behind which, and underneath the roadway, it is proposed to ooof
^ See TtmpU Bar, ikt CUg CMgotka, by a Member of the Middle Temple, sm. 4to» 1863, for a namh
uve of theae oocurrences, in illastratiou of the revolting effects of capital ponishments and publls
ttecntions.
m 0UBI08ITIE8 OF LONDOIT.
firact the tobwavi and Mir«n>ui unagetaeoi vliich wlU add modi totiw ■tabOityortbe^
wall. The toUllengfth of the emtMuikmeDt ie aboat 7000 ft. but It is oompletelT dirided bj the brJfa
Into three eeetloni : the flnt eeetlon from Weeiminster to Hoscerford bridge, ue aeooiid ftom Bxfo-
ftvd brite to W atartoa and the third from Waterloo to BlaeltfriarB bridge.
At Wcatmineter-bridge the roadway, which rieea at am iueUnatkm of 1 in 80 tothetefdof thefaiiage.
la let back aome 80 or 40 feet from the nee of theembankment-wall, and the interreninf naee reKmd
M a promenade and ateamboatppler, bavingaeoeea fhnn the bridce by a wide and inpoein^ iigtat of itefi
oppoelte the Honaei of PferllaoMnt. Between Weetmineter and HongerCord bridgea will belandinc^taBi
for nnaller craft, and here it ii propoeed to introduce the beautiful water-gate now sitnate at the end of
BndhJngham-atreet On either aide of Hunnrlbrd and Waterloo bridges, wilibe ateam-boat koidtag'^Mi,
BUMtTe crsnite plera with monlded pertfirala rising ahont 90 ft above the rondw^, to be enriebed «ith
ba**relien and anmonnted by groaps of statnazy. Half way between Hongerford sind Waterioobnd^
win be a flight of landing steps 60 ft wide, proieotinginto the rirer, and flanked at each end with marnn
pien, Tiaing to the lerelof a f^ fMt abore the roadwar, and to be anrmonnted with coloesBl figsni
of river deities, or other appropriate grouna. Ti>e oentral feature will be an approach tat fbot- wsi i iii) " i
flrom the high level roadwav to the nver dt a second flight of etepa, descendiiiff to the level orths Low
or embankment roadway. Oa either side of this approaoh a line of shops is to oe ereeted on the land sd»
of the embankment roadway, the backs of which would fbnn a retaining wall to CheomanMntal enseait
and promenade above then. Between Waterloo and BladcfHars brii^ies, and in front of Aimidd-street,
a steamboat pier wfll be constmcted, in lieu of the present Essex-street pier, desimed upon the mat
principle as tnose adjoining the biidces. The embanament-wali itself is to ba enriaied with noeldiQii
of a dmple character down to the levd of high-watn marl^ tiw conUnnons line <^ moulding befatt brokea
bv the introduction, at intervals, of massive blocks of grulte to cany ornamental lamps^ and >7 ooci-
Bonal recesses Ibr promenade seats.
The section between Temple Oardens and BlacklHars bridge will be coneiraoted on arches^ so sf t»
admit of the passage under it to docks between the roadway and the shore of barges and lightm;
besides a subway for gas and water pipes and electric telegraphs. The embankment will pass by sn es«7
enrvetothelevdofBrldge'«treet,BlackfHazs^wherethelmeof roadway will bacontlnaed bytbeaev
atnet to the Mansion House.
The Embankment ou the south side, between Westminster bridge and Yauzball, was conmcneed is
1866 ; the fbreshore of the flrst section oeing the site of the new.St Thomas's Hospital ; the ncv es*
bankment here redeeming six acres fh>m the Thames. There will also be a new roa^ 60 Iset vide; is
tha rear of the Hospital, continuing Stangate to Lambeth Fftlace.
THAMES RIVES, THE.
THE metropolis extending about 15 miles along the Thames, although ooeapjio;
little moro than one-thiitieth of ita entire ooorae, renders it the most importaat
oommerdal river in the world. The name is inferred to be of Britiah origm : Ccar
writes it Tamens^ evidently Tames or Thames with a Latin terminatian. The rinr
rises in the soath-eastem slopes of the Coteswold Hills; for a short distance it dirida
Glouoestershire firom Wiltshire; next Berkshire from Oxfordshire, and then from
Buckinghamshire ; it then divides Surrey and Middlesex, separating the cities of West-
minster and London from Lambeth, SouUiwark, Bermondsej, and Botberhithe; theoce
to its mouth, it divides Kent and Essex, and falls mto the sea at the Nore, aboot 110
miles nearly due east ftom the source, and about twice that distance measured along
the windings of the river. From having no sand-bar at its mouth, it is navigable /or
sea-vessels to London Bridge, about 45 miles from the Nore, or nearly one-foorth of iti
entire length ! In its course through the metropolis, it varies from 800 to 1500 feet
in breadth ; gradually expanding, as it approaches the Kore, to seven miles broad.
Drayton describes, as renowned for ** ships and swans, Queen Thames." Cowkf
thus refers to Old London Bridge impeding the prospect :
"Stopp'd by the houses of that wondrous streets
Which rides o'er the broad river like a fleet."
"London with Westminster, by reason of the turning of the river, much resembles the shape ro^ad*
Ing Southwiirk) otagrtai wkaU: Westminster being the under jaw: St. James's Park the moath; the
Fall Mall, Ac., northward, the upper Jaw : Cock and F^e Fields, or the meeting of the seven stieeti, tbs
qre; the rest of the City and Southwark to East Smiihfield, the body; and thence eastwsid to Ub^
house, the tail x and 'tis, probably, in as great a proportion the largest of towns, as that is of fiAfaM."'
SattoH, 1708.
The very bold reach made by the Thames adds greatly to the eflcsct of the prospect; snd bj tlih
means, before the addition of the present fhmt of Buckingham Palace, the Sovereign, when sestedopoB
har throne^ commanded a view of the dome of St. Paul's, and the spiies and towers of the Otj cliante
TX« Tide ascends about 15 miles above London Bridge to Teddington (Tlde-eod*
town) : here an immense volume of fresh water, derived from the aro of the drainft^
of the Thames (calculated at 800,000,000 gallons a day, or about 16 square milo, ^
feet deep), flows over Teddington Lock, and mixes with the water below. £ventt
ebb-tide there are 12 or 13 feet of water in the fair way of the river above Gi«eDiricb;
the mean range of the tides at London Bridge is about 17 feet; of the highest tp^
THAMES BWEB. 775
ides »lxmt 22 feet Up to Woolwich the river is navigahle fyt ships of any burden;
o Blackwall for those of 1400 tons.
ThamM SporU and Fageanta, — Fitzstephen chromdes the water toamament and
nintain. Richard II. was rowed in his tapestried barge, probably the first royal
lar^e upon the Thames : and here the king, seeing the poet Gower^ called him on
»oard, and commanded him "to make a book after his best," which was the origin of
he Confeano AmaniU, In the 15th and 16th centuries^ and onward to very recent
Lays, each palace on the north bank of the Thames had its water-gate, and its retinne
if barg^ and wherries. The Thames was the royal road from Westminster and White-
lall to the Tower, and from thence to Greenwich. State prisoners were conveyed by the
rhames to the Traitors' Gate at the Tower, and the Star-Chamber victims to a similar
rate at the Fleet. The landing-places on the Thames appear to have been even leas
ibanged than the thoroaghfare itself; for in the aooonnt of the penance of Eleanor
Ik>bham, Duchess of Gloacester, in 1440, we find named Temple-bridge (stairs), the
31d Swan, and Qneenhithe; and in early maps of London, are Broken Wharf, Banl's
(Vbarf, Essex Stairs, and Whitehall Stairs ; all which exist by the same names to the
present day. Car^nal Wolsey, when he delivered np York Place, " took his barge at
lis privy stairs, and so went hy water to Patney," on his way to Esher. Sir Thomas
tf ore kept hb great barge at Chelsea, which he gave to Sir Thomas Audley, his sac-
lessor iu the chanoellorship, with whom he placed his eight watermen. In the Aqua
TriumphaUa, in 1662, the City welcomed Charles II. from Hampton Conrt to White-
hall, the barges of the Twelve Companies being carried as fiir as Chelsea ; and mostly
dl ended with a pageant James II., 1688, embarked at Whitehall : ** I saw him take
barge/' says Evelyn; "a sad mght." The last primate who kept his state barge at
Lambeth was Archbishop Wake, who died 1737. Early in the l7th oentnry, Howel
Qumbered among the river glories, '* forests of masts which are perpetually upon her;
the variety of smaller wooden bottoms playing up and down ;" and Stow computes
that there were in his time 2000. In 1630, the river had its own laureate John
Taylor *• the Water-poet," who thus ungs :—
"Bat, noble Thames, whilst I can hold a pen,
I will dirolge thy slory onto men ;
Tboo, in the monuiig, when my ooin Is eosn^
Before the evening doth supply my want."
Taylor knew Ben Jonson ; and the Water-poet " probably had the good fortune to
feny Shakspeare from Whitehall to Paris Garden."— (C. KtUgU.) ,
The FoUif on the Thames was a floating " musical summer-house" usually moored
between Somenet-sturs and the Savoy ; the Queen of William IIL once v^iited it.
The existing sports on the Thames consist of rowing, boat-racing, and yachting, or
sailing, throughout the summer and autumn ; by dubs, numbering several members
of the Universities of Oxford, Cambridge, and London; the scholars of Westminster,
St. Paul's, and other academic foundations. The match for Dogget's coat and silver
badge is rowed foft everj 1st of August under the direction of the Fishmongers' Com-
pany, of which Dogget was a member, as described at page 400.
The Tkame$ Watermen formerly had their cant dialect, of which Ned Ward and
Tom Brown give specimens; and the " Thames ribaldry" {Spectator) has lasted to our
time, in which watermen's disputes have been settled by Joe Hatch, '* the Thames
Chancellor." Strype was told by a member of the Watermen's Company, that there
were in his day, about 110 years ago, 40,000 watermen on the rolls of the Company,
and that upon occasion they could flarnish 28»000 men for the fleets and that there
were then 8000 in service ; but these numbers are questionable.
St<Ue j9ar^09.— The first water pageant of the City of London dates from 1454^
when John Norman, the Mayor, was rowed to Westminster in his barge ; but the Com-
panies had their barges for water processions half a century before this; and the
Grocers' accounts, temp, Henry YI., mention the hiring of barges to attend the
Bherifiji' show by water. Hall chronicles the Mayor and dtizens accompanying Anne
Boleyn at her ooronation, in 1633, from Greenwich to the Tower, in their barges.
The barge was retMued in the Lord Mayor's state until our time, and induded the
Water-bailifl; one of his lordship's esquire^ irith a salary of 500/. a year, a shaUop and
77« CUBI08ITIE8 OF LONDON.
eight men ; and in the soite were a barge-master, and thirty-two City watermen. The
Lord Mayor's barge was richly carved and gilt, and cost in 1807, 25792. A few of the
City companies muntained their state-barges " to attend my Lord Mayor :*' as tU
Fishmongers, Vintners, and Dyers, Stationers, Skinners, and Watermen. The Gold-
•miths* Company sold their barge in 1850, and have not replaced it. A capadc^ss
barge, built in 1816, named the "Maria Wood" (from tJie then Lord Mayors
ddiMt daughter), cost 50002. The Queen long maintained her river state ; and one of the
royal barges, built more than a century and a quarter since, is a curious craft : the
rowers wore scarlet state-liveries. The Lords of the Admiralty had likewise their state
barge; and in the Museum of the Society of Antiquaries is one of their old massiva
■Over badges. This river-state has, however, been abolished ; and exeorsknis are now
made in steamers. The Dyers' and Vintners' Companies still keep noamg on the rirer.
State Funeralt by the Thames are rare : the remains of Anne of Bobema, and
Henry VII., who died at lUchmond, were conveyed with great pomp by the river to
Westminster ; and the body of Queen Eliasabeth was ** brought by water to WhitehalL"
The remains of Lord Nelson, after lymg in state In the Fftinted HaB of Greenwich
Hospital, were conveyed by the Thames* to the Admiralty, Jan. 8^ 1806, and next day
were deposited in St. Paul's CatbedraL '
Thx Port ov Lokdoit is described at pp. 685-^7.
Ths BBn>aE8 across the Thames at the metropolis are described at pp. 65-7S.
The two diarches immediiitelj below Tiondon bridge attett tlie oociqMitioii of Londoa bj the Daaei
and Northmen : St OlAve's South wark, originally dedicated to the Norwegian king, Olaf the Saint ; aad
8t Maguas the Martjr, from St Marina, a Norwegian jarl, killed in the ISth oentoxy in Qrknej, when
the catiiedral in Kirkwall is also dedicated to him.
Thx Docks (which have cost more than 8,000,0002. in the present centory) aze
described at pp. 309-812.
The earliest Water-supply was derived from the Thames, by direct carriage, or £rom
the bournes or streams which flowed through the town, but are now oovmd sewers.
The water was laid from these springs in leaden pipes; as early as the rdgn of Henry IIL,
to CoNDirrra in various parts of the town {we pp. 287-289), whence it was oonreyed
in buckets and carts : from l^bum in 1236 ; from Highbury in 1438 ; from Hackxwy
hi 1535 ; from Hampstead in 1548 ; and from Hozton in 1546. Lilly, the astrokiger,
when a youth, went to the Thames, accompanied at times by City apprentices^ to carry
water in buckets firom the river, for domestic purposes. In 1536, water was broaght
from six fbuntiuns in the town of TSfhum, this being the first instance on record of
water being conveyed to the city by means of pipes. In 1581, Peter Morice threw
a jet of the Thames over old St. Magnus* steeple, before which *' no such thing was
known in Bngland as this raising of water.** Next year were formed London Bridge
Waterworks, described at p. 67. In 1613 was opened the Nsw Bitsb {eee pp. 609-6I2)>
when commenced the modern systems of supply, now executed by dght Companies.
Jlf&.— Fitzstephen describes the Thames, at London, as "a fishfiil river;'* and its
fishermen were accustomed to present their tithe of talmon at the high altar of St.
Peter, and claim on that occasion the right to nt at the Prior of Westminster's own
table. At this period the river, even below the &te of the present London Bridge,
abounded with fish. In 1376-77, a law was passed in parliament for the saving of
salmon and other fry of fish ; and in 1381^2, " swannes" that came through the bri^,
or beneath the bridge, were the fees of the Constable of the Tower. Howel says: —
** When the idler was tired of bowls, he had nothing to do but to step down to Qneeo-
hithe or the Temple," and have an afternoon of angling. "Go to the river: what a
pleasure it is to go thereon in the summer time, in boat or barge, or to go a-floundering
among the fishermen !" In the regulations, too, of the " Committee of Free Fisher-
men" is a provision that fishermen were not to come nearer London than the Old Swam^
on the north bank of the river, and St. Mary Overies, on the south. Pennant describes
the catch of lamprey of the g^reatest importance, immense quantities bang exchanged
with the Dutch fishermen for other descriptions of fish. Formerly Blackfiiais and
Westminster bridges were anglers' stations; but the fish disappeared from the Thames
at London. Blackwall is, however, still filmed fbr its whitebidt (fee pp. 57-68), and
fish are taken in the docks below London Bridge.
* The Author of this volume, born August 17, 1801, has a distinct reooUeotion of having seen this
VoneraL Prooeision upon the Thamet item a hack window of a house at the sooUi fiMyt of LoQdon Bri^
THAMES'STBEET. 777
1740« Jane 7.— Two of th* greatett dnrnghte of salmon were eaagbt in the Thunes, below Blchmond,
lat liaTO been known for some years; one net having thirty fine large salmon in it, and the other
venty-two, which lowered the price of freah salmon at Billingsgata from Is. to M. per lb,— QttUU>
an's Afagateims.
Strange fish have atrayed here. In 1S91, a dolphin, '* ten feet in length/' played
imself in the Thames at London to the bridge. Evelyn tells of a wfaale^ fifty-eight
set in length, killed between Deptford and Qreenwich in 1658 ; and nearer the mouth
f the river (at Grays) a whale of the above length was taken in 1809, and another in
849. '< In 1783, a two-toothed cachalot^ 21 ft. long, was taken above London Bridge."
27A^ Steam Navigoium of the Thames exceeds that of any other river in the world.
[lie first steam-boat left the Thames, for Richmond, in 1814 ; the next fbr Gravesend,
Q 1815 ; and in the same year for Margate. The Gnivesend steamers soon superseded
he sailing-boats with decks, which, in 1737, had displaced the tilt-boats mentioned temp,
Elichard II. The Margate steamers, in like manner, superseded the sailing " hoy."
rhe steam traffic attained vast numbers. In the year 1861, 8,207,558 passengers
anded and embarked at Old Shades-pier on board the penny boats of the London and
IVestminster Steamboat Company. This number has, however, been oonnderably
-educed by railway competition.
Water, — In 1858, the water had hecome very impure hy the sewer- water emptying
itself into the Thames, and the sulphate of lime in it causing an insufferable stench,
the chloride of sodium denoting its origin among the human haUtations on the
banks of the river; added to which were the organic matters. Man pours into the
Thames the refuse of a hundred towns and villages, besides the washings of manured
lands, before it gets to Teddington Lock. The water, already impure, is taken at the
rate of 100,000,000 of gallons a day, and after washing London and its inhabitants,
inside and out, is again returned to the Thames, bearing with it the vegetable and
animal refuse of dwelling-houses, mews, cow and slaughter-houses, and all sorts of
manufactories in which organic matters are used.— (2V. Lainkester), In the following
year, 1859, the cleansing of the Thames by disinfectants was commenced ; and during
the season there were employed about 4281 tons of chalk-lime, 478 tons of chloride of
lime, and 56 tons of carbolic acid, at a cost of 17,733/.
Notwithstanding the many early measures to purify the Thames, we read in the
Xiondon chronicles of frequent and terrible ravages hy the Plague, Sweating Sick-
ness, and other disorders. The Thames was then a pure and pleasant stream : still the
Plague raged, and carried off thousands, and that at a time when the population of
liondon was probably under 300,000 persons — not many more than the population of
St. Ptoncras at present. This shows that the purity of the Thames alone did not
prevent the pestilence.
The Cfonaervaney of the Thames by the Corporation of London dates fnm 1st
Edward IV.; the Mayor acting as bailiff over the waters ^n preserving its fisheries
and channels), and as meter of marketable commodities— fhut» garden-stuff, salt, and
oysters, com and coal— from Staines to Tantlett Creek (80 miles). The Admiralty
also claimed a oertidn Jurisdiction; and the Corporation of the Trinity House had
authority to remove shoils, to regulate lastage and ballastage, to provide liglithouses
and beacons, to license pilots, mariners, kc The powers of the Corporation were
neither large nor well defined, and the result not being satisfactory, a Board of Con-
servancy was, in 1857, created by Act of Parliament, consisting of 12members» of whom
the City nominated six in addition to the Lord Biayor, who was ew officio chairman ; and
the Admiralty, Board of Trade, and Trinity House nominated the other five members.
This Board has greatly improved the river, and done much to devdope its capabilities.
Fbobts ahd Fbost Faibs oir thi Thjlxes, see pp. 360-868.
Thi IsLi OT Doos, the hone-shoe curve between Tiimehmiae and BkekwaU* is
described at p. 475.
TSAMJES-STSEJET,
N Stew's time called Stoeh/Uhmonger^e Sow, extends firom Puddle Dodc, Blackfriarfl^
to the Tower. The line abounds with aichssological interest.
Upifss TuAMW&'VraMn^^Fuddle J>oek was the wharf of one Puddle^ and next
I
778 CURIOSITIES OF LONBON.
Paddle Water, from hones watered there. Ben Jonson calls it " our Ahydoi." Shki-
well, in his comedy of Epwm Wells, 1676, has "the Coontev of Poddle Do^* u:
Hogarth, in 1732, met "the Duke of Puddle Dock," at the Dark-home, ffiifiug^i:^
Upon the nte of (dd Puddle Dock is bmlt the CUy Flour Mill, by &r thelv^
floor-mill in the world, and a gigantic example of mnpimnyHii skill. It is oae^tntui
entirely upon piles, and occupies rather more than an acre, or 250 feet long hj 6Ct&e
wide. The null consuts of «ght stories ; two steam-engines, of the consecativepove
of 900 horses, drive 60 pairs of enormous miU-stones, and work the Archiiiiedaa
screws and hocketi^ by which the flour is conducted through the diflirent proeeao.
This mill has stowage fbr 40,000 quarters of grain; can prepare 4000 quuters per
week, and requires only one-sixth of the number of hands which were employed k
he old system.
Cattle Bofnard Wharf deosi/tM the site of Baynard's Castl^ denribed at p. 4:.
Nesrly opponte is Adel or Addle Sill, where stood the palaoa of the Anglo-Saxa
kingi^ erected by Atheistan. Boee-eomrt is so called (says Stow) from a spriag-wBte
hoee, or mouth, put up by the executors of Sir Bichard Whittington. From LamiA'
till to Queenhitiie have been excavated portions of the river-wall mentioned by Fiti-
Stephen. Qvbbhhithx, see p. 704. Oarliok-MU was of old the gaziick kUMe.
Dowgaie, or DownefftUe, was named from its steep descent to the river; or free
its being the I>owr or Water gate to WatUng-street (MaiUand) ; near the chiiicli<^
St. Mary Bothaw (destroyed in the Great Fire, and not rebuilt), was the maosoo af
Sfar Francis Drake. Here is the CSty Terminus of the South-Eastem Bailvay, d^
scribed under Watltvo Stbbst.
Tke Steelyard is named from its having been the place where the King's tttft-
yard, or beam, was set up fbr weighing goods imported into London (T, Swda*
Tmmer). See a good acoount of the Steelyard, with historic details* by T. O'tto
in the JBuUder, September 5, 1863.
Ooldkarhour-lane denotes the rite of Coldharhowr, a magnificent manaoo, U
Edward II. (Bymer's Fasdera). It was next the property of Sir John VeaHsej;
in 1897, John Holhmd, Duke of Exeter, entertained here Bidiaid II.; Heniy V.
possessed it when Prince of Wales; Bichard III., in 1485, granted it to the CoUege
of Heralds ; Henry YIII. exchanged it for Durham House, Strand : it is shown a .
rains, in HoiUmd's Tieiw of London after the Great Fire. The etymology of CoU-
harbour is a qfUssUo vexata. Sir John Poultney received for his mansion, yeu^y* ^
rose at midsmnmer, whence, or from the wars of York and Lancaster, the eitate vtf
named "the Manor of the Bose." Upon Laurence Pountney-hill are two elaboraMT
carved doorways ; and some of the houses have stone-groined vaults. Upon Lanr«oo»
Pountney-hill lived Dr. William Harvey, with his brothers Daniel and Ebsi^ ser
diants ; here Harvey made his researches on the circulation of the blood.
In Suffolk-lane is Mxbohaht Taylobb* School {see p. 725).
Old Swan Stairs was a Thames landing-place in tiio 15th century. Here were the
Old Wine Shades, established in 1697, beneath the terrace of the former Fi^
mongers' Hall; the present Shades is the house built for Lord Mayor Gaiiatt,wbo
laid the first stone of London Bridge in 1825.
At Old Swan Houses facing the river, three suooesrive heads of the mercaDtik
eoncera served the oiBoes of Sheriff and Lord Mayor; and it is stated that no wA
succesrion in the list of magistrates is to be found in the City. Here traded Mr. Bicbo^
Thornton, who died June 20, 1865, leaving more than two millions and three qotiteis
of money, which he disposed of as foUows :
To hit nephew. Mr. Thomas Thornton, the testator left all his ftediold, coprliold, tad 1(*^^
proportT for hie abMluta nee. To Us airter, 100.0002.; to hia nephew, Mr. WiMam tbontoo Vtfk
§00,0001: to two of his clerks, aQ,O00<. eeoh; to his noxM^ for her fiiithftil lervicei imd stteDtion tobsi
in his UhMn, lOOOfj to emsh of hia other domeetio semnts, 6001.; to the Leathenellen' Ooapfg
SOOOt.; to Christ's Hospltsl, fiOOOI.; and lO.OOOJ. to Hetherington's Charitj for the Blind. To tiojMr
charities in London, aoooi. each; to the schools at Herton, 10.000i.: and to the poor of Ilfft(Al»"^
To the schools at Barton and Thornton, 10,000<. ; and to the poor or Merton, MOf. To Mr. ^^•}^
one of the ezecntors, the maniflcent legacy of 40(L0(XM., on condition of his obtaining' a tioffC ^Ti
twelve months to take and nse the somame of '*^Thomton." To the wift of another execntor.tv
faiterest is derised in the snm of 300,0001. To the Misses Margaret and £liza Lee, of Ventnor, I» ■
Wight, there is a life interest in the sum of aoO^OOOI. There are also Ubetal beqnasts to oOieffoi ^"
tssntot's nephews, aleossb and other persons.
THAMES TUNNEL. 779
At the tipper end of Jifartin'g4an€, Cannon-Btreet East, has been built a Rectory-
loose, with a haodsome campanile, 110 feet high.
Some idf a of the iDoient commercial wealth of England may be ntheied fVom a glance at the rapid
Dcreasc of trade from aboat the middle of the 14th oentory. Thus, in 1363, Picard, who bad beou mayor
omeyean before, entertained Edward 111. and the Black Prince, the Kings or France, Scotland, and
hrpruB. at bia own hooae in the Vintry (Upper Tbamee-atreet), and presented them with handsome gift*,
'hilpot, an eminent dtiieu in the reign of Bichard IL, when the tnde of England was greatly annoyed
ly privateers, hired 1000 armed men and despatched them to sea, where they took IS Spanish vessela
riih their prixes : Philpot-lane, in Lower Thames-street, is " so called of Sir John Phllpot (one of this
kmily), '* tnat dwelt there, and was owner thereof."— flifow.
The south side of Upper Thamee-street is mostly ooenpied by wharfs, once the site of riTer^lde
talaces. In the lanes, npon the north side, are sereral merchants' mansions, "which, If not exactly
qnal to the palaoes of stately Venloe, might at least Tie with many of the hotels of old Paris. Some of
he«e. thongfa i he great majority hare been broken up Into chambers and ooonting-hoases, stiU renudn
ntact."— B. Ultradi.
Upper Thames-street retains some old signs t as, a bas-relief of a Ghurdener with a spade^ 1670: the
)oablet (apun iron, onoe gilt), at Crawshay^s iron-wharf. No. 86 (originally the ** Sir John Anvill" of
he Speciaiort No. 2M). Upon Lambeth-hill, orer (Trane-coort, is a crane carved in stone.
Thamea-itreet haa long been noted for iti oheeee-factora' warelioaaea : " Thames
itreet gives cheesea." — (Gay's Trivia^
LowEB Thambs-btbest : Vish-street Hill; thx MoKinmrT (#00 pp. 570-571)
Elere was the entrance to Crooked-lane, notecl for its old fishing-tackle shops, handy
'or the anglers at London Bridge. At PudcUnff'lane (from butchers scal^g hog^t
luddings there) commenced the Gbbat Fibb {eee pp. 838-340).
Next is BTHJirGBOATB (p. 54). Coal Exchangb (p. 329).
In Watef'lane was the Old Trinity Honse, bnilt ^ Wren ; and at the lower end
>f the lane was the finely-carved door-headway of the SMp Tavern, Thb Custom
EiousB ia described at pp. 305-806.
At the east end of the street, in Stew's time, were the remains of a stone mansion,
mid to have been the lodging oS the Princes of Wales ; hence this part of the street
teas called Petty Wales. It was also called OaUey Quay, from the galleys formerly
lading and landing there. Tradesmen's tokens in the seventeenth centoiy were stradc
tiere, and were hence called, vulgo, ** Qalley-qnay halfpence.'
.*»
A
TSAMES TUNNEL,
BRICK ardied donble roadway, tmder the Thames, between Wapping and
Rotherhithe, is one of the grandest achievements of engineering skill.
In 1790 an attempt waa made to constmct an archway onder the Thames, Arom Oravesend to TnbnrT
by Bi^pii Dodd, engineer; and in 1804 the ** Thames Archway CompMiy" commenoeda similar work
from Rotherhitheto Limehoi ~
ind the horiiontal excaTatiou
bigh tides, and the work was
under the Thames of any nsefhl sixe ibr commsfcial progression.
The Thames Tnnnel was planned by M. I. Bmnel, in 1828 : among the earliest sab-
Kribera to the scheme were the late Duke of Wellington and Dr. WoUaston ; and in
1824 the " Thames Tnnnel Company " was formed to execute the work. A brickwork
cylinder, 50 feet in diameter, 42 feet high, and 8 feet thick, was first commenced by
Mr. Brunei at 160 feet from the Rotherliithe side of the river ; and on March 2, 1825,
a stone with a brass inscription-plate was laid in the brickwork. Upon this cylinder,
computed to wdgh 1000 tons, was set a powerful steam-engine^ by which the earth
was raiaedy and the water was drained from within it ; the shaft was then sunk into
the ground en masse, and completed to the depth of 65 feet ; and at the depth of
63 feet the horixontal roadway was commenced, with an excavation larger than the
interior of the old House of Commons. The plan of operation had been suggested to
Brunei, in 1814^ by the bore of the sea-worm, l^edo naoalis, in the keel of a ship;
showing how, when the perforation was made by the worm, the sides were secured,
and rendered impervious to water, by the insect lining the passage with a calcareous
secretion. With the ang^-formed head of the worm in view, Brunei employed a
oast- iron " Shield," containing 86 firamea or cells, in each of which was a miner who
cut down the earth ; and a bricklayer simultaneoualy built up from the back of the
cell the brick arch, which was pressed forward by strong screws. Thus were com-
pleted, firom Jan. 1, 1826, to April 27, 1827, 540 feet of the TunneL On May 18 the
780 OUBIOSirrES OF LONDON.
rirer bant into the works; bat the opening was soon filled up with bsgs of cliT,tb<
wRter pumped oat of the Tannel, and the work resumed. At the length of GOOki
the river again broke in ; six men were drowned; and the nuh of the water asrd
Hr. Branel, Jan., up the shaft. The Tunnel was again emptied j bnt the voikiu
now disoontinaed, for want of fands, for seven years.
Scores of plans were next proposed for its completion, and above 50001. were lu^i
by public subscription. By aid of a loan sancidoned 1^ Parliament (mainly ihpjsr-
the influence of the Dake of Wellington), the work was resomed, and a oe« sb^l^
constructed, March, 1836, in which year were completed 117 feet; in 1837, <<
29 feet ; in 1838, 80 feet ; in 1839, 194 feet; in 1840 (two months), 76 feet; asd :>
November, 1841, the remaining 60 feet, reaching to the shaft which had been sank t
Wapping. On March 24, 1843, Brunei was knighted by Queen Victoria ; on Angnst It
he passed throogh the Tunnel ftom shore to shore ; and March 25, 1843, it was opaei
as a pubtic thoroughfare, lighted with gas, to passengers, day and night, at one psij
toll; in each passage a carriage-road and footway. The opening was eek^n&ai
annually by a Fair held in the Tunnel.
The Tunnel cost about 454,000/. ; to complete the carriage-descents would reqv-^
180,000/. ; total, 634^000/. Tlie dangers of the work were many : sometimes pi^
of the shield broke with the noise of a cannon-shot; then alarming cries told of usa
irruption of earth or water ; but the excavators were much more inoonvemenced ^
fire than water ; gas explosions frequently wrapping the place in a sheet of ihs?.
strangely mingling with the water, and rendering the workmen insensible. Yet, v-'t»
all these perils, but seven lives were lost in xnaking the Thames Tunnel; wheres
nearly forty men were killed during the building of New London Bridge. In l^
Mr. Brunei submitted to William IV., at St. James's Palace, *' An Expoatioa of tb
Facts and Circumstances relating to the Tunnel;" and Brunei has left a iiqec»
record of his great work : it is well described and illustrated in Weale's Quarler^f
I^apers on Engineering, A Visitor's Book is kept at the Tunnel, wheron are U
signatures of the many illustrious persons who have inspected the works. It **
visited by Queen Victoria, July 26, 1843. In 1838 the number of visiton was 23,00):
In 1839, 34^000. A fine medal was struck at the completion of the work : o&e. ^
of Brunei ; rev. interior and longitudinal section of the Tunnel.
Width of the Tannel, 86 feet; height, 20 feet; each archway and footpath* elear vidtK 8)»si|<
ftet; thiekneas of earth between the crown of the Tannel and the bed of the river, aboat 16 &et it
ftill tide, the foot of the Tannel ie 76 feet below the sar&oe of the water.
The Tunnel has been paralleled, as an engineering trimnphp by Stephenson's Tabolir
Bailway-bridge.
TREATRB8.
A DELPHI THEATRE, No. 411, Strand, was commenced in 1802 by John S»tt, »
colourman, and opened Nov. 27, 1806, as the Sane Pareil, with musical enttf-
taiuments, and next year with dramas. In 1820-1 Scott sold the theatre to RodveH
and Jones, who named it the Adelphi ; in 1825 it was sold to Terry and Tates; ^
after Terry's secession, Tates was joined by Charles Mathews the elder, who gave bere
his later "At Homes." The compo front of the theatre was designed by BeBzk7,
in 1840. Yates was succeeded by Webster, with Madame Celeste as direetrss. Ooe
of its chief attractions was the comic humour of John Reeve. The theatre was rebnut
in 1858 upon an enlarged plan, by Wyatt (from the Opera Comique in Paris) for Mr.
Webster ; style, Italian ; decoration, French Renaissance ; illuminated by a sonligb^
Astley's. AUPHITHBATBE, Bridge-road, Lambeth, is the fourth theatre erected Qpn
this site. Tlie first was one of the 19 theatres built by Philip Astley, and was (fpeoed
in 1773, burnt in 1794; rebuUt 1795, burnt 1803; rebuilt 1804^ burnt June %}^^
within two hours, from the house being prindpally constructed with old ship-tiisber.
It was rebuilt, and opened April 17, 1843, and has since been enlarged. Tba theiti^
was built for equestrianism ; and the stud of trained horses nsuaUy numbered t^
60 to 60. It has since been cleverly remodelled by Mr. Boncicault, for perfonnaoctf
of the regular drama.
THEATBE8. 781
Philip Aftl^. orlflinany a cBTalxy toldiw, eommenoed bonemanthip in 176S, in an open field aft
tnibeth ; be built his flnt theatre purtly with OOJ., the produce of an unowned diamond ring which be
and on Weetmineter Bridge. Andrew Ducrow, •abeegoentlj proprietor of the Amphitheatre, waa bom aft
le "Nag's Head," Borooirh, in 1798, when his lather, Peter Dooow, a native of Bmges, waa ** the Flemieh
ercules** at AstJey'e. The fire in 1841 aroee from ignited wadding, each aa canaed the deetniction of
le old Globe Theatre in 1618, and Covent Oarden Theatre in 1808. Andrew Docrow died Jan. 26^ 1842.
' mental derangement and paraljeis, prodooed by the oataatropbe of the homing of bia theatre and
tveral (aToorite liorsea.
Bakkbidb Thxatbu. Tfao earliest was the Circos built for boll-baitiDg and bear*
ftiting, about 1520, in ParU Oarden, In this theatre, plays were also performed
imp. James I^ when Henslowe and Alleyn were lessees. Nash, in his Strange
Tewes, 1590, mentions the performance of pappets there; and Dekker asserts that
ien Jonson had acted there (SaiiromcuHx). Aggas's Map, drawn about 1560, shows
wo eirei lower ^own on '*the Bank ;" bat still lower were the Globe, the Hope, and
ae Rose, The Globe was built by agreement, dated Dec 22, 1598, fior Bichard
lorbage, the famous actor. In 1603 James I. granted a licence to Shakspeare and
thers to act "at their now nsnall boose, called the Qlobe." It was of wood, heia-
oual in exterior form, and was occupied by Shakspeare as a summer theatre. At
hilwich College, in a paper, occurs " Mr. Shaksper," in a list of " Inhabitants of
owtherk, Jnlly, 1596;" he was assessed in the Uberty of the Clink in 1609, though
is occupation as an actor at the Qlobe did not continue after 1604:* his brother,
)dmond Shakapeare, was buried in St Saviour's church, 1607. The Globe was de-
broyed by fire June 29, 1618, when Ben Jonson was present ; it was rebuilt in 1614^ but
{ not mentioned after 1648 : it was built on the nte of Globe-aUey, which led from
f aid-lane to " the Bank," and is now included in the premises of Barday and Perkins's
brewery («m the Map in Strype's Stow, 1720). The Hope, used both for bear-baiting
nd as a playhouse, was situated near the Bose : in 1614 Ben Jonson's Bartholomew
Tair was fint acted here ; later it was used for prize-fighting, and in 1632 again for
iear>baiting. The Moee, probably the oldest theatre upon Bankside, except Peris
liarden {Collier), was hcSlt long before 1597 : it was held for some years by Philip
lenslowe, afterwards Alleyn's partner; it oocuped the site of Bose-alley, west of
Hobe-alley (Me Strype's Map). The /SWan was in repute anterior to 1598. Both the
lose and Swan, after 1620, were only occupied occasionally by gladiators and fencers;
nd about 1648 all theatres were suppressed. (See the Antwerp View qf Loudon,)
Blacktbiabs Thbatbb was built in 1575, upon part of the site of the monastery
tf Blackfriais, between Apothecaries' Hall and Printing-house-squarei and upon P^dty-
\ouie-yard. The first proprietors were James Burbage and his fellows^ who^ with
»tber players, had been ejected from the City by an act of Common Coundl : it was a
rinter theatre, arranged like an inn-yard (the earliest theatre), but with a roof orer
t. Shakspeare was a sharer in the Blackfinars playhouse in 1589 ; it was rebuilt in
596 ; and was leased by Edward Alleyn in 1618 (eee his Diary, at Dulwich College),
t was taken down in 1655 (Collier's Life qf Shakepeare), and dwelling-houaes were
>uilt upon the ground («m Blaokybiabs, p. 56.)
Bbitavvia Thbatbb, High-street, Hoxton, was commenced building soon after the
Icstniction by fire, of tiie Bosemary Branch Equestrian Theatre, Islington Fields,
fuly 27, 1858, when seven horses and eleven dogs were burnt. The Britannia (Finch
nd Ptanure, sfchitectsX ia provided with promenades and refreshment saloons. The
iuditory is very spadou% and elegantly decorated. The pit is nearly 80 feet wide and
10 feet deep. The stage is 76 feet wide by 50 feet deep ; opening at proscenium
14 feet wide by 37 feet high. The house is effectively ventilated by openings left
Q ornamental portions of the ceiling, in immediate communication with the internal
irea of the roof, and thence with the open aur, by means of louvres extending from
tne extremity of the building to the other. The provisioDS agmnst fire are well
)laiined, and the extent of the theatre is considerable.
BBUKBinoK Thbatbb was built upon the site of the Boyalty Theatre, within
even months, by Stedman Whitwell, C.E. The ftfade resembled that of San Carlos
* The Globe Theatre stood open a spot of grooad now ooeapled bj fomr booses eontigiiona to the
ireaent Globe-alley, Maid-lane.— (lf*rror, March 31, 18»). We remember a large tavern, the Qlo^ in
Jbaingate, deetrofved by Are aboot 1813. PennaDt waa told that the door of the Qloba Theatre was very
fttely (1790) stUMUng^-Aee Knight's Mwt^b^
782 CURIOSITIES OF LONDON.
BtNaplai. ItwMopenedFeb. 25, 1828;biifewithmtlireeiiiglits»OBFriiLS8»
ft day relieamly Uie whole theatre fidl to the groand, and kUled ten ptswam% asanc
whom was a proprietor, D. S. Maiirice» the taitefol printer, of Fcndmrcb-ctres.
The catastrophe was eanaed hy the niiafe iron roof and the great weiglite mttmhei
to it : the fall of the theatre waa well deacribed at the time by one of the eanpmj.
Cnr ov IjOVDON Thsatbi^ 86, Norton Folgate, was bnilt 1837, ftr ICtl Hoae^,
the pretty actress, and first called the Norton Folgato-street lliefttre.
Cnr Thxatbs, MUton-street (Gmb-street), was opened about 1830, with opssz.
performances. " A new theatre has here arisen, where boards haTe been gmced with a
Tree and an Ay ton ; and within these few months, its boxes have been graced witi
the presence of my Lords Broogham and Grey." — {Mkror, Nov. 19, 1831.) Thf
theatrical concern did not soooeed, and the premises next became n rhapel.
CoamT or Phokix Thsatbb (firam its sign), Dmiy-lane, ooo^ied the she ^
G)di|at-alley, nowPitt-phu»,oppoatetheCbfasIW0«r%St.Gflee's-m-^^ I:
was altered from a cockpit, and when a theatre it was twice nearfy destroyed by tbe
London apprentices ; and was pulled down in 1649 by soldiers, instigaied by secUiku
bigots. At the Restoration, Rhodes, a bookseller, reboilt the theatre^ bat aoon vacated
it; and Sir W. Dayenant, with Betterton and Kynaston in his oompuiy, perfeme^
here till 1662, when they remored to Portagai-row {see p. 687). At the Cockpit was
performed the first play in print, Hke WMimg, by Shirley, printed in 1629^ and ex-
prcBsIy said to hare beoi acted at Dmry-lane.
CoTXHT Gabdxk Thxatrb, Bow-street, is the third theatre bmlt here. Hie fii«^
•theatre was bnilt npon part of the ConTent ente, by Shepherd, architect of Goodmans
FMds Theatre. Corent Garden was opened Dec 7, 1782, by Ridi, the eddirated
harlequin ; and Hogarth's caricature of " Rich's Glory, on his Triumphant Entry isn?
Oorent Qarden," refers to his removal here : it shows one entrance, a maginiiioent Iodx
srdiway, at the end of the eastern arcade of the Piasa. Here the Beeftteak Sodeir
was ibnned in 1735, by Rich, and Lambert the scene-painter. In 1746 Garriek plavei
here for the season. In 1808 John Kemble became a proprietor and stnge-mamiTer.
Ob Sept 20, 1806, the theatre was homed to the ground, and twenty paeons ki&i
hi the ruins. It was rebuilt by R. Smirke, RJL The first stone was laid by tb.
Prince of Wales, Dec 81, 1808; and the theatre was opened Sept. 18i, 1809, whs
the " new prices " caused the O. P. (old prices) riot of serenty-eeren nighta, saee
wlddi " a London audience has been found more captious than they prgviuudy bid
been" (C. Dibdim). In 1817 John Kemble here took lea^e of the public; and is
1840 retired Ins brother, Charles Kemble. The theatre was subsequently leased to
Mr. C. Mathews and Madame Yestris, and Mr. Macreody. In 1848-45 it was let te
the Anti-Oom-Law League, who held a bazaar here in 1845 (see p. 42). In lSi7
the auditory was entirely reconstructed, at a cost of 40,0002., by Albano, and opened
as an Italian Opera House April 6. The exterior retained Smirkei's Grecian-Doric por-
tico^ copied from the Temple of Minerva at Athens ; statues of Tragedy and Gomedj;
and two panels of bas-relief figures, by Flaxman.
The miHkem pumtl has figons of JSKhylui, Aifrtophanei^ sod Mjeander; ThaBs, PoiylrfVBa.
Xoterpe, sad Clio ; HiDara and Baoebot; MelpoiDeiMb two Fonea, and ApoUo. In the wfima pari
are flgorea of Sbakapeare sammoDiiiff Callbaa, Tetdinand, Miraaaa» Procpera and Anal ; Heeate s&i
ladj Macbeth. Alao Milton, with tfnmia and Samaon Agontotea, an Incident nom CSwa, Ae;
This theatre was destroyed by fire, March 5, 1856, at the dose of a masked ball
The ruins lay undeared for neariy fifteen months. The facade was .saved, and
Ilaxman's statues and bas-reliefs were adapted in the design for a new tbeabne, bv
E. M. Barry, which was opened as an Italian Opera Houscb in 1858. It ia extero&IIr
nearly 100 feet high by 120 feet broad, and 240 feet long, has a grand Corinthiaa
portico, fiuang Bow-street, about one-fifth larger than the late theatre, and the same
size as the celebrated La Scala of Milan, hitherto the largest theatre in the worlJ.
The interior decorations are white and gold, and pale azure. Adjoining the theatre is
the Floral Hall, of '* Crystal FkOaoe" design. (See Royal Italian Opera, p. 7^.)
•HnC ^ppeoroiMM.— Incledoo, the ainger, 1790; Chariea Kemble, 17M; Mn. Glover, 17B7; G. F.
Cooke (Richard III.), Oct. 31, 1800; Miaa Stephens (Countess of Essex), 1312; Miss ifSaiX (Ladr
Beecher), 1814; lCaereadjr,1816; W.Farreo,U18: Fanny Kemble, 1829; Adelaide KcnbK 18«1. Hen
Sdmond Keaa last acted, 1883b
THEATRES. 783
CtTBTAUr Thbatbb (Thb), Holywell, is mentaoned in 1677. Stow, ipeaking of the
iory of St. John Baptist, says : " Near thereunto are bnilded two publique hotuet
T the acting and showe of comedies, tragediei^ and histories for recreation; whereof
le one is called The Courtein, the other The Tkeaire, both standing on tiie sonth-
est nde, towards the field " {Stow, 1st edit. 1699). Both theatres are mentioned in
orthbrook's Treatise agaitui Dieeinff, Dancing, Vain Platft or Inierludee, 1577 ; by
tubboa in his Anatonde qf Abuses, 1588 ; in a black-letter ballad, in the Pepysian
(Uectlon, occurs " the Curtun at Holywell ;" and in an epigram by Heath, 1610.
ir H. Herbert's office-book shows that in 1622 the Curtain was occupied by the
trranta of Prince Charles. Aubrey (1678) describes it as "a kind of nursery or
Mcare playhouse^ called the Greene Curtain, situate in the suburbs towards Shore-
itch.'* After it was abandoned as a playhouse^ prize-fighters exhibited here. Sir
lenry Ellis (Hist, Shorediteh, 1798) quotes from the parish books several entries of
le marriage, burial, Ac, of players. Maitland {Hisi. London, 1772) mentions some
smains of the Curtain stan^ng at or near his time. It is said to have occupied the
te of the curtain close of the priory, and is conjectured to have been named from ita
eing the first theatre to adopt that necessary appendage of the stage, the curtain,
he name survives in Curtain'road,
DBTHtT-LAira Thk&tbx, between Drury-lane and Biydges-street, forms the east
ide of Ldttle Bnssell-street. The first theatre here was built prepisely upon this sito
nr Thomas KiUigrew, and opened April 8, 1663 ; the company being called " the
Cing^s Servants," as Davenanfs were "the Duke's Servants," both under patents
[ranted hj Charles II. in 1660. Drury-hme, " the King's Theatre," had the chief
mtrance in Littie Bussell-street. Pepys's Diary records many of his visits to " the
Sing's House," and other London theatres, from 166(K1670. "The Kmg's House"
vas burnt down Jan. 1671-72. It was rebuilt by Sir Christopher Wren, and opened
Karch 26, 1674^ with a prologue and epilogue by Dryden. Hr. Collier has printed in
he Shakspeare Soeiet^s Papers, vol. iv. p. 147, an indenture showing Dryden to
lave been joined with KiUigrew, Hart, Mohun, and others, in the speculation of this
' new playhouse." In 1682 the King's and Duke's companies played here together.
Uch, Steele, Dogget, Wilks, Cibber, and Booth were succesrively patentees; and
derrick in 1747, when he opened the theatre, Sept. 15, with the well-known prologue
vritten by Dr. Johnson, and commenced the revival of Shakspeare's plays. On
Tune 10, 1776, Garrick here took leave of the stage. Sheridan then became parfe-
jffoprietor ; and, in 1788, John Kemble manager. In 1791 the old theatre was taken
lown, rebuilt by Holland, and the new theatre opened March 12, 1794.
It wss called bj Mrs. Siddons " The Wademeis." The openlDff fi»r the cnrtefai was 48 feet wide and
18 feet high, or nearly aeven tlinea the heiffht of the perfonnen. There were eeata fer 9000 penona; hot
ipwarda of 6000 peraona are known to have been aqoeeied into thia theatre.
It was bnmt down Feb. 24^ 1809. The present house, built by B. Wyatt» from
:he plan of the great Bordeaux theatre, was opened Oct. 12, 1812, with a prologue by
[iord Byron. In 1818 the theatre was let, at 10,200/. per annum, to EUiston, fbr
nrhom Beazley reduced the auditory, added the Doric portico in Brydges-street, and
^he cast-iron colonnade in Little Russell-street in 1831. In the hall is a cast of
Scheemakers's statue of Shakspeare, and a statue of Edmund Kean by S. Joseph. The
itaircases and rotunda are magnificent^ and the intorior circular roof of the auditory it
jeomeirically fine.
Fine jljwaaroMaf.— NeD Owyime, at "the Klng'a Hooee^" 1606; Barton Booth, 1701 ; Mra. SIddona,
1776; John P. Kemble, 1788; Harriet Mallon (Dnabeaa of St. Albaoa), 1795; Edmund Keen, 1814. Here
MacreadY took leave of the atage, Feb. 26, 1861.
The lint Drary-lane Thettre waa aometlmea called Corent Garden Theatre; and the late Mr.
Bichardaon, the Coffee-hooae keeper, poeaeaaed a ticket Inacrlbed, "For the Maaic at the Plajhonae in
CoTent Garden, Tneadaj, March 67l704."— J: T. SmUk.
DoRssT'OAXDXKS Thxatbb was built at the extremity of Salisbury-court, Fleet-
itrcet, and had a handsome front and flight of stairs to the Thames. It was opened in
1671, under the management of Lady Davenant. Dryden, in his prologue to Marriage
a^la-Mode, 1672, leaves contemptuously to the citizens " the gay shows and gaudj
■<^^e8 " of Dorset-gardens. Here Shadwell's operatic version of Shakspeare's Tempesi
was produced with great splendour in 1678. After 1697 the theatre was let to
wresUen and fenoen^ but was taken down about 1780, and the sito is now occupied hj
784 CUBIOSrnES OF LONDON.
the City Qas-works. The tfaeatre wm dengned by Wren, and tbe §taiptme \p
GibboDi^ indaded figarei of Comedy and Tragedy sunnoontiiig the balnstnde.
Dmcs'sTHSATBX, "tbe Opera," Linooln's-inn-fields. (See PoBTUOAi>«ixxET,pueBr.
Here, May 10, 1785, Macklin killed his brother-actor Hallam, by aoadentk in a qoete.
EFraroHAic Theatre (modem), in the rear of the Earl of Effingham ^Vwra, 2&
Whiteduipel-road, wai, in part» taken down in 1867, and rebuilt to liold 4000 perazs.
FoETUiTB Thbatbi— named from its ngn,
"The pictare of Dame FoiinM
Before the Fortuie plajbouee" (HiqFvood)—
was built for Philip Hendowe and William Alleyn, in 169^1600, <m tiie eai^ mik^
Golding-lane, without Cripplegate. It cost 1320^., and was opened May, lODl. I:
was a square timber and lath-and-plaster building, and was barat lioc. 9, 1621
(Alleyn's Diary) ; but was rebuilt on a circular plan, of brick, and tiled. He interi?
WM burnt in 1649 — Prynne says by aoddent, but it wss fired by sectarians. In :k
MercuriMe PoliUeut, Feb. 14-21, 1661, the building, with the ground belonging, vs%
adTertised " to be lett to be built upon ;" and it is described as standing betvacB
** Whitecross-street and Qolen-lane," the avenue now Playhouse-yard.
Qabrick Theatre, Leman-street, Goodman's Fields, was built in 1830, and vxsbl
from its proximity t# the scene of Qarrick's early fiune. The theatre was bonit dc^n
November 4^ 1846, when it belonged to Messrs. Conquest and Gomersall, t^ kttt?
remembered for his impersonation o^Napoleon Bonaparte. The theatre bas beea rebsi::.
Gibbok's-coubt Theatre, Clare Market. (See p. 658.)
GrOODXAir'B FIELDS THEATRE WSS first opened as a alk-throwster^s shop^ in 1?^
by Thomas Odell, and was rebuilt by Henry Giffiurd ; both of whom were^ bowec^er.
compelled to dose the theatre by the puritanical clamour nuaed against it. Gi^jri
returned to Goodman's Fields in 1737; and here, Oct. 19, 1741, David Garnck fiztf
appeared in London as Bichard III. He drew an audience of the nobility and gentiT,
whose carriages filled the whole space from Temple Bar to WhitechapeL Gray, in i
letter to Chute^ writing respecting these performances^ says, " Did I tell jon abc^
Mr. Garrick, that the town are horn mad after P There are a doxen dukes of a ni^
in Goodman's Fields sometimes." The theatre was taken down about 1746. Ganick s
first appesnnce ber^ arose from the proprietor being also manager of the Ipswi^
company, in which Garrick first appeared on the stage.
Greoiak Theatre, adjoining the garden of the Eagle Taoerm^ City-road, wis
built by Thomas Rouse for regular dramatic entertunments. The establishment ha
been enlarged and improved by Mr. Conquest, the present proprietor: it hasa qjadoas
ball-room, elegantly decorated, open without extra charge ; and the garden ia illumi-
nated in the Vauxhall taste^ with the advantages of gas-lighting, open-air ordiestrik
lights among the shrubs, &c.
Hatxabeet Theatre, the " Little Theatre," was originally built by one R>tter,
and opened Dec. 29, 1720, by « the French comedians :" it was first called <■ the Xer
French Theatre." In 1723 it was occupied by English actors; 1726, Italian opeas^
rope-dancing, and tumblers, by subscription ; in 1727 the Beggai^e Opera was pro-
duced here; 1731, gladiators and backswoidsmcn ; 1732, English opera upon tbe
Italian model ; 1784-6, Fielding opened the theatre with '* the Great Mogul's Com-
pany of Comedians," for whom he wrote his JPaequin, the satire of which npon tbe
Walpole administration gave rise to the Licensing Act (10th of Geo. IL cap. 28). Is
1738 a French company reopened the theatre, but were driven from the stage the first
night. In 1741, English operas were played here; 174^ Samuel Foote first appeared
here as Othello ; 1747, Foote became manager, and continued so for thirty yeu%
commencing with his own Entertainments. Jan. 16, 1748-9, the Bottle Coqiurur
hoax and riot. 1762, the Haymarket was established as a regular summer tiieatra.
1777, it became a Theatre Royal, when Foote sold his interest to George Cohnan fcr
a life annuity of 1600/., and Foote died in the following October. In the green-nxxa
is a gUt dock, which belonged to Foote. Colman died in 1795, and was sucoeeded b?
his son, George Cobnan the younger, licenser of pUys. Feb. 3, 1794^ aixtoen perM
TEEATBE8. WS
were trodden to death, or snfTocated, in attempting to gain admission on a royal yirit.
The " Little Theatre " was taken down in 1820 ; the present theatre was boilt, at a
few feet distant, with a lofty Corinthian portico, by Nash, and opened Jaly 14, 1821 :
here was produced Paul Pry, with Liston, in 1825. In 1863, Mr. B. Webster con-
eluded here a lesseeship of 16 years ; the theatre was then let to Mr. Buckstone, who
has rendered the Haymarket famous for its excellent performance of the legitimate
drama ; and this while one of our gpreat national theatres was devoted to Italian opera.
Firtt Appearance: — Henderson, Bannister, Mathowi, Elliiton, Liston, and Toonip ; Miss Fenton
(Duchess of Bolton), Miss Farren (Countess of Derby) ; Edmund Kean, in "little bosiness," 1806; Miss
Paton ( Lady W. Lennox). Here Macready gave bb final performances.
HoLBOSN Ahfhithxatbe occupies the site of the Metropolitan Horse Bazaar,
opposite the Inns of Court Hotel. Its length is 130 feet, width 68 feet from box to
box. The private boxes form a semicircle in front of the house, a row of stalls, called
the "Grand Balcony," being ranged immediately before them on the same tier.
Above them is a gallery called the Amphitheatre. The performances are chiefly
equestrian, and the ring is surrounded by pit'Stalls.
HoLBOBN Theatbs, bullt 1866, nearly upon the site of Warwick House. {See p. 431.)
St. James's Theatre, King-street, St. James's, was designed by Beazley, for John
Braham, the singer, and cost 50,0002., independently of the site, which cost 8000&
The facade is Roman, of the Middle Ages ; and the interior, by Grace, originally re-
sembled the theatre of the PaUce of Versailles. The St. Jamais Theatre was opened
in 1835 ; and next year was produced here an operatic burletta written by Charles
Dickens, the music by John Hollah. Here French plays are occasionally performed.
Lyceum Thsatbe, Wellington-street, Strand, was originally built by James
Payne, architect, in 1765, as an academy (or lyceum) fat a society of artists ; of whom,
on the re-establishment of the Royal Academy, Qarricb bought the lease of the pre-
mises, to prevent their becoming a theatre. They were next purchased by Mr. Ling-
ham, a breeches maker, in the Strand, and opened about 1790 for musical perform-
ances ; in 1794 or 1795 Lingham leased the adjoining ground to Dr. Arnold, who built
here a theatre* the licence for which was suppressed, and it was let for music, dancing,
and horsemanship, exhibition of paintings, &c. : a foreigpier gained a large fortune by
showing here the first phantasmagoria seen in England ; and here, in 1803-4^ Winsor
exhibited Lis experimental gas-lighting. In 1809, the theatre was enlarged by Mr. S.
A. Arnold, and opened as the EngUah Opera-houte : it was rebuilt, in 1816, by
Beazley ; was destroyed by fire, Feb. 16, 1880 ; and again rebuilt by Beazley somewhat
farther west, the site of the former theatre being included in Wellington-street, then
formed from the Strand northward. The new theatre cost 35,0002. ; it has an
elegant Ckninthian portico : it was opened with English opera, July 14|, 1834 ; and
was re-dccorated in rich Italian taste, for Madame Vestris, in 1847. Here were given
the best performances of the Keeleys; and the admirable Shakesperean and melo-
dramatic impersonations of Mr. Charles Fechter.
Mabioitettb Thxatbb, Adelaide-street, Strand, was originally the Adelaide Gallery,
and was altered for the clever performances of Marionettes, or puppets, in 1852.
Mabylebone Theatre, Church-street, Paddington, was built and opened in 1842,
as " a penny theatre :" it was enlarged in 1854^ to hold 1200 persons.
Miltok-btbsbt Thbatbb, §ee Gbttb-stbbet, p. 782.
NEwnf GTOV Butts : here was a theatre built before the Globe at Bankside : it is
mentioned in the Diary of Philip Henslowe, which shows that from June, 1594, the
performances were jointly by the Lord Admiral's men and the Lord Chamberlain's
men : here were acted TUue Androniont, Samlet, and the Taminy of a Shrew,
NuBSEBT (the), in GU>ldlng-lane, was built by a patent of Charles II. as a school for
the education of children for the stage :
"Near these a JXunerj erects Its bead.
Where qaeens are formed, and future heroes bred.
Where unfledged acton learn to laugh and erj.
Where inflmt ponks their tender voices try.
And little Mawmlns the gods deOr/'^Dryden's Mae Fleehne,
3 X
786 CUBIOSITIES OF LONDOIT.
Bsyes, in the lUhearMl, tpetkn of *' the semce of the Nunerjr f* and Pep^s &fitwss:
there 24th Feh. 1667-8. The hoiue, with the tojbI arms and a figure of Chantr, >
pUfter, on the front, exkted to onr time, and has heen erroneoualy deacribed as tk
Fortune Theatre. There was a nmilar Nur»ery in Hattom-garden, at whkh Jue
HayneB, the dancer, performed*
Olticpic Thbatxb, Wych-street, was originally erected by I%iKp Aiitky. 6p.c
the site of old Craven Hoose, and was opened with horBemanahip, Sept. 18, 1906 ; r
was principally built with the timbers of La VUle de Paris, the ship in wbirli WUltim F
served as midshipman ; these materials were g^ven to Astley, with a chandelier, ': ;
George III. The theatre was leased in 1813 to EUiston, who removed thecoe :
Drury-lane ; and snbeeqaently to Madame Yestris, before she became leasee of Cofiec:-
garden ; both which changes were minoos. The Olympic Theatre was destroyed h
fire, within an hour, March 29, 1849 : it was rebuilt the same year, and ope=£«
Dec. 26. Here WilUam Farren was sometime leasee.
First and last at the Olympic Theatre have appeared EUiston and Hts. Edwin ; Qzberrr aod P**?
Keeler and Fitzwiltiam ; Charles Kean and Ellen Tree ; Madame Vestria, Mrs. Nesl»tt (TjHOj Boock':?
Mrs. Keeler, and William Farren; Charles Mathews ftrst appeared here ; and Miss Foote (Goonteu
Harrington*), Mrs. Orger, and Listoo, Isst plated here. In Craven^holIdiDgs, Mdjoaaing the tliecr^
have resided " three &Toorite actresses, from the time of DrTden to our own — ^Mn. Jkaesalidh, Xn.
Fritchard, and Madams Vestris."
PAirTHsoN Thsatbs, Oxford-street {tee p. 639).
Patilion Thiatbs, Whitechapel, one of the largest theatres in the mebopo^
covers nearly an acre of ground : it is nearly 60 feet high, yet has bat two tiers s^
boxes and one gallery ; depth and width, nearly 50 feet each; d60oratioD% dead-wbise.
gold, and crimson.
Fbincesb's TffEATBB, Oxford- street, originally built as the Qneea's Bazaar (m
p. 41), was designed by Nelson, and opened Sept. SO, 1841, with piomeiuide ooDoots.
It cost 47,0002. ; but the unique character of its Benaiasance decoratioD, by CSrace^ hs
been spoiled : originally it oonnsted entirely of four tien of boxes. This theatrc;, under sl^
management of Mr. Charles Kean, became famous for his rq^vroduction of Shakspesic'i
historic plays, excellently acted, with scenic aooessorieB hitherto m^ireoedeiit^ii
For these efibrts to improve the tone, and elevate the character of our stages, M'r. Chsrks
Kean was, in 1862, presented with a costly service of plate, by public sobacripftion.
Queen's Theatre (now the Prince oe Wales's) Tottenham-street, Tottenham-
court-road, was originally Francis F^uali's Concert-room, enlarged for the Conea^
of Ancient Music by Novosielski, who built here a superb box for G^eorge III. sad
Queen Charlotte (Dr. Rimbault» Noies and Queries, No. 10). In 1802 Cc^oad
Greville fitted it up for the performances of the " Pic-nic Sod^y,** a body of di^ia-
gnbhed amateurs^ whose celebrity rendered them olgects of alarm to the profeasaffiol
actors of the day, and exposed them to the attacks of the caricaturist Gilray. In 1S08
it was an equestrian establishment under the management of Saunders. Two years
afterwards it was opened as a theatre, but Mr. Pftnl, the first manager, ponoved misoc-
cearfhl. About 1821, it passed into the hands of Mr. Brunton, whose daoghter, after-
wards so justly celebrated as Mrs. Yates, was one of its chief attracticms. In tiie &s^
bill issued by Mr. Paul, the first theatrical lessee, it is simply called the " New Tfa^tre,
King's Ancient Concert Booms, Tottenham-street," Afterwards it became the Kegentr^
the Theatre of Variety, and the West London ; and on the accession of William ZV.
was designated the Queen's, in compliment to Queen Adelaide. An attempt to render
the theatre a sort of English opera-house was made in 1831 by Mr. Macfarren (£itber
of the popular composer), and in 1888 it acquired a temporary brilliancy under ilkt
new name of the Fitzroy. Here the burlesques, chiefly written by Mr. Gilbert i
Beckett, gained considerable fiime in their day ; and stiU more celebrated were Mr. H.
Mayhew's Wandering Minstrel, and his local drama of the Field of Forty Fooi-sUpt.
Here French plays were first performed after tbe Peace of 1815. Frederick Lemaioe
appeared ; Mademoiselle George played in Voltaire's tragedy Merope; and M. Laporte^
afterwards manager of Covent-gSrden and Her Majesty's Theatres, was a priodpal
comedian. In 1835 it was reoponed by Mrs. Nesbitt, who formed a really pova^
company, comprising the most noted comic perfonpers of the time, and rerived tbe
name of the " Queen's." It received its present designation under the managemeat
TREATBE8. 787
f MiflB Marie Wilton. Here Yoang, the tragedian, first appeared on the atage, in
807, at a private performanoe.
QvEBir'B Thxatbb, formerly St. Martin's Hall, Long Acre, opened 1867.
Red Bull Theatbs (the), upon the site of Red Bull-yard, St. John-street, Clerken-
rell, was originally an inn-yard, but rebuilt about 1633 : here the King's Company,
nder Killigrew, acted until Drury-lane was ready fat them. During the Interregnum,
Drolls" were performed here, and afterwards published by Kirkman, one of the
layers, with a frontispiece of the interior of the theatre. (See Clbskenwell, p. 236.)
'here is a well-compiled account of the Red Bull Theatre in Pinks's SUtory of
Tlerkemoell, pp. 190-ld6.
Sir William Davenant, to whom Charles I^sranted a patent in 1639, oontinaed recreation and mnaie,
fter the manner of the andenta, at Bntland Houie, Bridgewater-aaaare, and subseqaeutly at the Cock-
it, till the Restoration, when the few plajers who had not fallen in the wars or died of porertj aaaembled
nder Davenant at the JBcd Bull: the acton' clothes were "ven pooroL and the aotora but common
Ulow«,"— P*jif •, leei.
HoTAi/TY Thsatbs, Well-street, Wellclose-square (named from Qoodmav^e Field
VelU, 1735), was built by subscription, and opened in 1787, when John Braham first
ppearedon the stage, as Cupid, and John Palmer was manager; Lee Lewis, Bates,
lolland, and Mrs. Qibbs, were also of the company. It was purchased about 1820 by
ifr. Peter Moore, M.P.; waa burnt down AprU 11, 1826; and upon the site was
Tected the Brunswick Theatre, noticed at p. 781.
Sadleb'8 Wbllb, the oldest theatre in London, is on the S.W. ride of Islington,
iud named in part from a mineral spring, which was superstitiously ^Uspensed by the
Donks of the Priory of St. John of Jerusalem, probably from the time of Henry I.
>r Stephen. In the reign of Charles II., one Sadler built here a music-house, and in
1683 re-disoovered in the garc)^ the well of ** excellent steel waters," which in 1684
vas visited and drunk by hundreds of persons every morning. Evelyn, on June 11,
1686, went to "the New Spa Well, near Myddelton's receptacle of water at the New
Kiver." The entertainments were rope-dandng, tumbling, and gluttonous feats. The
veil, cearing to attract, was covered over ; and in 1764 the old music-house (engraved
n the Mirror^ No. 971) was taken down, and the present theatre built by Rosoman.
Sing (of Drury-lane) was long a partner and stage-manager ; and Charles Dibdin and
lis sons, Thomas and Charles, were proprietors. Grimaldi, fiither, son, and grandson,
vere famous clowns at this theatre ; and Belzoni was a posture-master here before he
travelled to the East. In 1804 the New River water was introduced in a tank under
:he stage, where also is a mineral well ; but the old wdl is between the stage-door and
;he New River. Wine was sold and dmnk on the premises nntil 1807 : under the old
•egulation, " for an additional sixpence, every spectator was allowed a pint of either
)ort, Lisbon, mountain, or punch." But the more honourable distinction of Sadler's
^ells Theatre is its admirable representations of EUaabethan plays, under the manage*
nent of Mr. Phelps, who' has beoi ei&ciently soooeeded by Miss Marriott
Salisbitbt-coitbt Thkatbb {eee p. 849).
Saits Souci Thbatbx, Strand, was built by Dibdin, the song-writer, in the rear of
lis muric-shop» and opened Feb. 16, 1793. Dibdin planned, piunted, and decorated
his theatre ; wrote the recitations and songs, composed the music, and sang and ac*
nmpanied them on an organised pianoforte of his own invention. He built another
Sana Sonei theatre in Leicester-place.
SoHO Thbatee, now the Nbw Rotaltt, was built for Frances Kelly, in 1840, as a
chool for acting, in the rear of No. 73, Dean-street It will hold 600 persons.
STAin>ABD Thbatbb, Shoreditch, occupies the rite of the former theatre, burnt
)ct 28, 1866, and is larger than any one in London, excepting the Italian Opera*
louse, Covent Garden. The nudn building is 149 feet long and 90 wide. The ex-
reme height of the auditorium part is 84 feet, and that of the stage 94 feet, to
nve room for drawing np the scenery, which will not any of it be used from the
ides. The stage from the footlights to the back is 61 feet, and the widest part of the
lOTMshoe is 56 feet All the passages and staircases are of stone, with iron rails,
fbe outlets are numerous, and the auditorium is lighted by five son humen above a
^uud-glaas ceiling painted in oiL
8 1 2
788 OUBI08ITIE8 OF LOIWON.
Straitd Tfxitbb,No.169, Strand, originally Barker's Panorama, was altered ialS§.
fm Rajner, the low comedian, and Mrs. Waylett» the unger. Here were proda^
Dooglas Jerrdd't early plays. The theatre has nnoe become famons for itsbdikajtA
SVBBXT Thbatbb, St. George's-fields, was first built by Charles Hogba s:
Charles Dibdin, the song-writer, and was opened Nor. 4^ 1782, as the 2os^ Ctm-
for equestrianism. John Palmer was acting manager in 1790, when he w Br-:
within the Rules of the King's Bench .{See p. 702.) The theatre was destrorgii
fire Aug. 12, 1805, but was rebuilt in 1806 by Cabanel, in Biackfriars-road. Ass^:
its lessees were Elliston and Thomas Dibdin. Here Budcstone first appeared. I'.i
theatre was destroyed by fire, Jan. SO, 1865, bat was rebuilt upon an enlsiged ^
and opened within eleven months.
*< Thx Thsatse" was built, in 1576, on the site of the Priory of 8t John Bipt^
at Holywell, Shoreditch ; and is conjectured by Malone to have been " the first k-:-
ing erected in or near the metropolis purposely for scenic exhibitions :" it is oc^
In John Stockwood's sermon at Psul's Cross, in 1578, as '^ the gorgeoos phTise-
plaoe erected in the fields." It was a wooden building; and in the Star-Cbafi:!^
records is proof that, in 1598> " the Theatre" was taken down, and the rood reB»rcd
to Bankside for rebuilding or enlarging the Globe Theatre.
YiCTOSiA Thsatsb, New Cut, Lambeth, was originally named "the Cobooic/
from the first stone having been laid by proxy ibr Prince Leopold of Saxe-C:ol»a!|>
Oct 15, 1817 : it has in its foundation pan of the stone of the old Ssvo^ Pa^<%
The theatre was designed by Cabanel, a carpenter from Liege, who also ooDstr^tc.
the stage of old Drury-lane Theatre, and invented a roof known by bis Q«^
The Cobourg Theatre was first opened May 13, 1818: for its rfyerfoire, OmAsa
Stanfield, subsequently R.A., painted scenery ; and here was constructed a lookiȤ-9i^
curtain, of large plates of glass, endoRed in a gilt frame. The house was leased to
Egerton and Abbott in 1833, when the name was changed to " Victoria," asd t!i
Princess (her present Majesty) visited the theatre.
Whitefbiabs Thiutre (the) was originally the hall of Whitefriars moMstaj.
outside tlie garden-wall of Dorset House. From a survey in Mr. Collier's poeEesci,
we learn that the theatre was fitted up in 1586 ; it was taken down in 1613. Ho«^
in his continuation of Stow, describes, " the erectaon of a new fair playbooae vm v*
Whitefriars," 1629 : this was " the Private House in Salisburie-court."
Ofeba Houbes, Itaiiait. — Hee Majb8tt*b Theatre. — ^The first theatre for w
performance of Italian operas in England was built by subscription, by Sir John j<p-
brugh, at the south-west comer of the Haymarket, and was opened April 9, 1^^*^'
but operas were not performed here wholly in Italian until 1710, when MmaM ^
produced; and next year BxadeVs Minaldo, m Italian, and by Italian singers-^
June 17, 1789, the theatre was burnt down; and upon the same ate. «kiS^
April 8, 1790, was laid the first stone of the present Opera House, designed by ^'c^
sielski, who introduced the horse-shoe form of auditory, frtnn the Italian thesti«9. 1>
1820 the exterior was altered by Nash and Repton in the Roman-Doric styles as ^
now see it, fronted with arcade and colonnade: each of the iron cdninnsis'^'^:^
casting. The Haymarket front bears a basso-relievo, by Bubb, of Uthaigolite, or tfU-
ficial stone, illustrating the progress of Music ; Apollo and the Muses occop7ii>S ^
centre. The interior, at the time of its erection, was larger than that of La Scm >
Mihm, or the Theatre Italien at Paris. The audience and stage ground are beU co
two distinct leases. The whole theatre is lined with thin wood in very long P^^'^ !^
the best conductor of sound. It was entirely re-decorated in the ^^'^^^'^Jz
Roman style in 1846. Horace Walpole's box was No. 3, on the grand tier, pa*
are 177 boxes, the freehold of some of which has been sold for 7000 and 8000 g^'
the season-rent is 300 guineas; a small box, fourth tier, has been let for od« ^^Lj
12 guineas. When Mr. Lumley purchased the theatre in 1844, he realised 90,^
by selling boxes in perpetuity. The house will accommodate about 3000peni»^
drop-scene was painted by Stanfield, R.A. The decorations, after ancient ^■o'^y^
extremely beautiful. Here is a model of the theatre, 10 feet high. ?v^^^
scenery is deposited at ** the Bam," James-street^ Haymarket.
lbs Italian Opera House in the Hajmarkst has ever been a oost^ specolatian. UlT»G^
TOKENS.
789
leaded a •abacription of BOfifXA. for its aapport. Eben loat 44,060^. («m hla Snm Ywn f^f the IRn^$
Theatre. 1829). For two aeaaons he paid UfiOQL rent per annam. One Mason's expenses : — Opera*
)e3(V. ; ballet, 10,678/.; orebeatra, 82611.; aoene^painting and wardrobes (60,000 dresses), 6372/.; %hting,
12NU. ; salaiiea. 2678/.; servants, 403/. : military guard at the doors, 160/. ; fittings of the king's box, fii
821 . 300/. ; nightlT expenses from 700/. to 1000/. The largest receipts were in tlie seasons when Jenny
[iind sang. Her H^^eety's is stated to be the onlj theatre which has no lease. It claims the exduslTe
ight to prodoee foreign operas, from a deed made in 1792, co?enanting that " the patents of Drary Lane
uid CoTont Garden shall never be exercised for the purpose of Italian operas." See an able aoooontof
Her Majesty's Theatre, by Shirl^ Brooks, Mondmff CkronieU. March 20, 1851. Mr. Loml^s greatest
leasotts were those in which Mile. Jenny Lind gave her matchless performances in opera.
RoTAL Itauav Ofbba, Covent (Hrden Thefttre, was opened April 6, 1847, with
Semiramide (Grini), and M. Covta as inoncal director. The originator of this aeoond
[talian Opera House was Mr. C. L. Ghriin^aen, with Mr. T. F. Beale as director. In
he seasons of 1848 and 1849 wore expended 60,000/. ; and the sahmes of Albooi,
(^iardot, Grisi, and Mario, were between 4000/. and 6000/. each. (See p. 782.)
The Act 6th and 7th of Yictoria, cap. 68 (1843), which is the most important of all. anthorins the
Lord Cliamberlain to license hoosea «>r stage-plays in London, Westminster, Brighton, and New
i^indsor, and wherever the precincts of the Court may for a time be; also authorises Justices of the
^uce to license bouses b^ond the Lord Chamberlsin'sjurisdiction : also authorizes the Lord ChMnber-
ain to license stace-plavs throughout Great Britain. This Act waa looked upon at the time as a most
ibernl measure. It abolished the privileges of the patenta, and allowed the Lord Chamberlain to Ucenaa
rithin certain districts as many tneatres aa he pleased, all endowed with equal rights, thus depriving
:he expression * minor theatre" of its distinctive signification.
The number of London Theatres licensed by the Lord ChamberUun for the per-
brmance of any kind of drama whatever in 1866 was 28. Of these we give a list»
x>getber with the number of persons which each will contain, extracted from one of
iie statements laid before Parliament : —
Her Majesty's 2200
Dmry-Iane 2500
Covent-garden • • • • . 2500
Haymarket 1500
Princess's 2000
8t. James's • • • • . lOJO
Adelphi 1800
Lyceum •••••• 1700
Marylebone • • • • . 1200
Olympic 1000
Strand 700
Astley's 2200
Victoria 2000
Besides 3 theatres since opened, and
Surrey •••••• 2000
Pavilion 2300
Qredan 2j00
Britannia • • • • . 2400
Ci^ of London • • • . IMO
Standard 2000
Qarrlok 1100
New Bi^ty 000
Queen's 900
Sadler's Wells • • • .1300
2S theatres, eontaining . 88,900
the Standazd and EiBngham rebuilt.
0
TSBEADNEEDLE'STMEET,
R Three'NeedU-Hreei (Stow), originally extended from Bishopsgate-street to Stocks
Market, bat now terminates at the Bank of England. The name is from three
leedles, the charge on the shield of the Needlemakers' Company's arms ; but Pennant
races the 6nal cause to the Hall of the Merchant-Taylors, Taylon, and Linen-armouren
n this street. Hatton refers it to "such a sign." (See MsBOHAyx-TAiLOBa' Hali^
k>nTii-SBA HouBB, and Hall of Cohkebcs.) Upon part of the site of the latter
iTed Sir William Sidney, one of the heroes of Flodden Field; and his son. Sir Henry
liduey, in whose arms died Edward YI. Sir Henry then retired to Pensharst> where
ras bom, in 1554, his son, the famed Sir Philip Sidney. Upon the site of the present
hief entrance to the Bank of England, in Threadneedle-street, stood the Cro«H Tavern,
'behind the 'Change:" it was much frequented by Fellows of the Boyal Society, when
hey met at Qresham College, hard by. The Crown was burnt in the Great Fire, bat
ras rebuilt ; and a century since, at this tavern, " it was not unusual to draw a butt
f mountain, containing 120 gallons, in gills, in a morning.** (Sir John HawJInne,) At
«o. 20 lived Alderman (now Sir Francis Graham) Moon, F.S.A., the eminent print-
•ublisher : he was Lord-Mayor in 1854r-5, when he received his patent of baronetcy*
TOKENS.
[N the reign of Eliiabeth (1558), the great want of halfpence and farthings led to
private Tokens, or farthings, of lead, tin, latten, and leather, being ttruck lor ale-
louse-kcepers, chandlers, grocers, vintners, and other traders ; the figure and devices
»cing emblematical of the various trades, victuallers espedally adopting their signs,
rhcy were made without any form or fashion ; and some of them (as the leaden tokens
i Elizabeth's reign) are now of extreme rarity. Every one issuing this useful specie
790 CURIOSITIES OF LONDON.
wu compelled to take it agun when otTered; and tliia practiee oontinned until 1672;
when Charles II. strack halfpence and fioihings. Within the present oentmy, bofvever,
many tokens obtained genend drcolation in London, bj which means tradesmen adrer-
tised tlieir bomness : soch tokens also reoorded great events, portraits of pobiic men,
views of places and of entertainments, which might otherwise have been lost. They
mostly <^ppeared on Watt's new copper coinage of Qeorge IIL The great natkail
collection of tokens in the British Mosenm is the finest we possess. Mr. Boach Smith'i
collection, now in the British Mnseam, contains about 500 medisval leaden tokem,
and many tradesmen's tokens in brass, from about 1648 to 1674. {See Calalogme^
1864.) The fieaufoy Cabinet^ presented to the Corporation Libraiy, coswtsts exdn-
sively of Zondon traders', tavern, and coffee-house Tokens current in the 17th. centniy,
1174 in number : they are well described and annotated in a Catalog;ne by Jacob
Henry Bum, printed for the Corporation, 1853 ; and reprinted 1855. iSss also the
work on Tradetmen's Toimu current fa London, 1648 to 1672, by J. T. AkennsB,
FJ3JL, 4to^ 1849.
Tokenkonte-ford, on the north side of Lothbury, is named from tlie Mint-boose^
or office fbr the issue and change of these farthings or tokens : it was bailt in the
reign of Charles I., and occupied the rite of the house and garden of the Eari d
Arundel ; and from its proximity to the brassfonnden of Lothbury, they axe thought
to have minted the Tokens.
TOTTENHjiM^COUBT'SOAJ),
FROM Oxibrd-street to the Hampstcad-road, was the old way from Che village of S6.
Giles's to the prebendal manor of Totham, Toten, or Totten HaU (named is
Domesday), and temp, Henry III. the manrion of William de Totenhall. It stood at the
north-west extremity of the present road, and is mentioned as a bouae of entertainmeot
in the parish-books cf St. Giles's, in 1646, when Mrs. Stacye's maid and two otiien
were fined *' fbr drinking at Tottenhall Court, on the Sabbath dale, x\jc{. a-piece." U
was then altered to the Adam and Eve public-house, which, with the Kim^s Mead and
Tottenham Court turnpike, is shown in Hogarth's *' March to Unchley," at the Found-
ling Hospital. At the Adam and Eve were a music-room and tea-gazdena; here
Lunardi ascended in his balloon. May 16, 1785. A portion of the old ooort-boase
remained to our time ; the gardens were built upon between 1806 and 1810, and tfas
public-house has been rebuilt. J. T. Smith, in his Book for a Raimf D^, remember, la
1778, Capper's Farm, behind the north-west end of Bussell-street» noted for ita gardo-
hottses in Strype's time. From Capper's Farm were straggling houses, but Totten-
ham-Court-road was then " unbuilt upon." The first house (No. 1) in Oxford-street
bore on its front» cut in stone, ** Oxfind-street, 1725." The Bine Poets, comer of
Hanway-street» was once kept by Sturg^ the fiunous draught-player, anthor of a
Treatiee on Lraughie, The rite of Gresse-street (named from Gresse, the painter)
was then gardens, recommended by physicisns for the salubrity of the air. Stephea-
street was then built : George Morland the painter, lived here, at No. 14^ in 1780.
Whitefield's chapel was built in 1754, upon the rite of " the Little Sea" pond ; and &
turnstile opened into Crab-tree Fields, which then extended to the Adam and Eve,
"TotteDrCourt, a mansion in the fields/' is a toene in Ben Jonson's l^de qfa Tub t and the seeae of
Thomsi Nash'i TotUnkam'OouH, a plessant comedy (1699), is laid in **MszTOwboDe Parle''
TOWER SILL
IS described by Hatton (1708) as '* a spacious place extending round the west and
north parts of the Tower, where are many good new buildiDgs, mostly inhabited
by gentry and merchants. Upon this hill such persons as are committed to the Tower
and found guilty of high treason are commonly executed. And Stow says " thescafibldi
were built at the charge of the City, but in the reign of Edward IV. the same was
erected at the charge of the King's officers; and that many controverriea have beea
between the City and Lieutenant of the Tower touching their liberties." A oentuiy
nrevious the spot was noted for its salubrity :
"The Tower Hin,
Of all the places London can aiTord,
Hath swecteat ajre."— Haughton'a Bi^UAmm/^ mg Mimtg, 161«^ 4»a,
TOWEB OF LONDON. 791
\
Tlie " boaiids " of the Tower Liberties are perambulated trienniHlly, when, after
ervice in the church of St. Peter, a procession is formed upon the parade : including
lieaddman, hearing the axe of execution; a painter to mark the bounds; yeomen
carders, with halhards; the Deputy Lieutenant and other officers of the To^cr, &c:
he boundary-stations are painted with a red "broad arrow" upon a white
pround, while the chaplain of St. Peter's repeats, " Cursed be he who removeth his
lei^hbour's landmark." Another old custom of lighting a bonfire on Tower Hill on
l^ov. 5th was suppressed in 1854.
Liady Raleigh lived on Tower Hill after she had been forbidden to lodge with her
lusband in the Tower. William Penn was bom April 14th, 1644^ in a court on the
»uit nde of Tower Hill. At the BuU public-house died, AprU 14th, 1685, Otway the
poet» it is said of hunger. " In a by cutler's shop of Tower Hill," says Sir Heniy
VVotton, " Felton bought a tenpenny knife (so cheap was the instrument of this great
attempt)/' with which he assassinated the Duke of Buckingham.
J*astem-row, with a few posts set across the footpath (opposite about the middle
of the Tower moat), denotes the site of the Postern-gate, at the south-eastern termi-
Bation of the City Wall. Here is the rendezvous for enlisting sulors and soldiers^
which formerly had its press-gangs. The shops display odd admixtures of marine
stores^ pea-jackets and straw-hats, "rope, boor-glasse^ Gunter's scales, and dog-
biscuite."
The Place qfExeeutian, on Qreat Tower Hill, is shown in the old plan of the Tower
at p. 793; the space eastward is LUile Tower Hill.
IToiabU PtnoM Bxtcmied m Totem- .Hill.— Jane a, 1636, Bishop Flsber. July 6. 16S6, Sir ThomM
More. Jaly 2a, 1640, Cromwell, Earl of Esmx. Jan. 21, 1647, Earl of Sorrer, the poet. Much 20, 1640^
Thomas Lord Sermoor of Sodeley, the Lord Admiral, by order of his brother, the Ftoteotor Somerset^
who was beheaded Jan. 22, 1662. Feb. 12, 166S-^ Lord Ooildford Dudley, husband of Lady
Jane QT«y. April 11, 1664^ Sir Thomas WysL May 12, 1641, Earl of Strafford. Jan. 10, 1644-6^
Archbiahop Laud. Dec 20, 1680, William Viscount Staiford, ** insisting on his innocence to the wuf
UaU" Dee. 7, 168S, Algernon Sldn^. July 16, 1686, the Duke of lionmoath. Feb. 24^ 1716, Earl of
Derwentwater and Lord Kenmoir. Aug. 18, 1746, Lorda Kilmarnock and Balmerino. Dec. 8, 174fl^
Jdr. Radelifll^ who had been, with his brother Lord Derwenlwater, convicted of treason in the Bebellion
of 1716, when Derwentwater was execnted ; bat Badcliffe eaci4ied,snd was Identified by the barber who^
31 Tears before, had ahsred him in the Tower. Chamberlain dark, who died in 1831, aged 92 yeara^
weU remembered (his father then realding in the Ifinories) aeeing the glittering of the executioner's
axe in the ion as it fell upon Mr. Badcllfiri neck. April 9, 1747, Simon Lord Lovat, the last beheadimr
in Kngland, and the last execution upon Tower Hil^ whoi a scsflbldlng boilt nesr Barking-alley ftu
with neariy 1000 persons on it, sad 12 were killed.
On the west nde of Tower Hill is Oreai Tower-eireet : No. 48, on the south side^ it
the Cza/r^eHead, huilt upon the site of the former tavern, where Peter the Great (C^ar
of Muscovy) and his companions, after their day's work, used to meet» to smoke pipes
and drink beer and brandy. In JAttle Tower-street, Ko. 12, was Watts's Academy,
where Thomson was tutor when he wrote his Summer.
At the south-west comer of the Hill is Tower Dock, where Sir Walter Ralegh,
disguised, embarked in a boat for Tilbury j but being betrayed, he was arrested on the
Thames, and committed to the Tower.
TOWSB OF LONDON, THE,
** fpHE citadel to defend or command the City" {Slow), stands on the north bank of
-L the Thames, about a mile bebw London Bridge, and in the oldest part of the
metropolis; ''between the sonth-eost end of the City Wall and the river, though the
west port is supposed within the City,* but with some uncertainty ; and in what
eonnty the whole stands is not easy discovered." {Halton, 1708.) It comprises
within the walls an area of 12 acres 6 roods. Tradition has assigned its origin to
Julius CsBsar, and our early poets have adopted this antiquity :
* PiiNM Bdwatd, I do not like the Tower of any plaee.
Bid Jalins Cmst boild that place, my lordP
Bwdnmgham, He did, my gradoas lordj begin that plaes^
Wliieh since saooeedinK ages have re-edldcd.
Pri»e$ Bdmard, Is It upon reoord, or else reported
* " It wss proved In the esse of Sir Thomss Overbary, npon a question as to whether his mordsr
was committed within the boondsries of the City or In the county of MiddleMs, that the Gty Wall
traTcraed the boUdlngs contained within the Tower; and his apartment being on the west of iL tiM
erimhials easss aoMfdlngly undsr the Jorisdietion olttis aty.''--Areher's Kei^^
792 CUBI08ITIE8 OF LONDON.
BoL'cessiTelj from aire to a^e, he built it ?
BuMmg^kom, Upon record, my gracioiu lord."
Bhakspemre't fidkard JZZ, act m. ae. 1.
Thia, howereTj is nnsnpported by records ; bat tbat the Romans had a fortress here is
a sobseqaent sge is probable, from the discovery of Boman remains opon the ^tej
and a Roman wall is still visible near the ditch. The Saxon Chronicle leads to t^
belief of there having been a Saxon fortress upon the spot.
The oldest portion of the preaent fortress ia the Keep, or White Tower, so named
from its having been originally whitewashed, as appears from a Latin docament of I'oe
year 1241. This tower was boilt about 1078, for William the Conqueror, by Gundulpii,
bishop of Rochester, who also erected Rochester Castle ; and the two fonUcaaca hare
points of resemblance. William Rufhs greatly added to the Tower. At the doee of
his reign was sent here the first prisoner, Ralph Fl^mbard, or Firebrand, who con-
trived to escape by a window which is diown. Henry I. strengthened the fortrers;
and Stephen, in 1140, kept his court here.
FItatephen deacribea it aa "the Tower Falatliie, Ytrj large and very itronir, whose oonrt an 1 «^'d
riae ap from a deep foundation. The mortar la tempered with the blood of beasts. On ihe west sr
two eaatlef, well fenced."
About 1190, the Regent Bishop Longchamp surrounded the fortreM with an em-
battled stone wall and " a broade and deepe ditch :" for breaking down part of ti^
City wall he was deposed, and beneged in the Tower, but surrendered after one nigbt.
King John held his court here. Henry 111. strengthened the White Tower, aod
founded the Lion Tower and other western bulwarks ; and in this reif^ the palace-
fortress was alternately held by the king and the insurgent barons. Edward L eo-
larged the moat, and on the west made the last additions of military importanoe prkr
to the invention of cannon. Edward IL reared here against his subjects; and bete
was born his eldest daughter, Joan of the Tower. Edward III. imprisoned here masr
illustrious persons, including David king of Scotland, and John king of France wi^
Philip his son.* During the insurrection of Wat Tyler, King Richard II. took r^uge
here, with his court and nobles, 600 persons : Richard was deposed whilst imprisooed
here, in 1899. Edward IV. kept a magnificent court here. In 1460 Lord Scales was
besieged here by the Yorlusts, and was taken and dain in endeavouring' to escape br
water. Henry VI., twice imprisoned in the fortress, died here in 1471 ; but the tza-
(Ution tbat George Duke of Clarence was drowned here in 1478, in a butt of mafansey-
wine, is of little worth. The beheading of Lord Hastings, in 1483, by order of the
Protector Gloucester (on a log of timber in front of the Chapel) ; the seizure of the
crown by Richard ; and the supposed murder of his nephews, Edward V. and the Duke
of York, — are the next events in the annals of the fortress. Henry VII. frequently
resided in the Tower, where also his queen sought refuge from *' tiie society of her
sullen and cold-hearted husband :" the king held a splendid tournament here in 1501 ;
his queen died here in 1508. Honiy VIII. often hdd his court in this fortress : here,
in great pomp, Henry received all his wives previous to their espousals ; here were be-
headed his queens Anne Boloyn and Catherine Howard. About this time (1548) oc-
curred a great fire in the Tower :
"U A° (Edw. YI.) Item the xxy daj of November waa in the njghU a grete ^er in Che towv of
London, and a gret pease burnyd, by menea of a Freneheman that aette a banelle of f^onnepoder a ^^^
aod too was bornyd hymselfb, and no more peraona, but moch hoite beajde."— CSbnm. Origr Virion ^
LomUm,
Edward VI. kept his court in the Tower prior to his coronation : here his uiicle, the
IVotector Somerset, was twice imprisoned before his decapitation on Tower Hill, in
1552. Lady Jane Grey entered the fortress as queen of England, but in three weeks
became here a captive with her youthAil husband : both were beheaded. Queen Marj,
at her court in the Tower, first showed her Romish resolves : her sister, the Princes
Elizabeth, was imprisoned here on suspicion of fiivouring Sir Thomas Wyaf s desgn;
she was compelled to enter at the Traitor^ ChUe, when she exclaimed, " Here landetfa
as true a subject, being a prisoner, as ever landed at these stairs ; and before Thee, 0
God, I speak it." Queen Elizabeth did not keep her court in the Tower, but at no
period was tbe state prison more " constantly thronged with delinquents." Jame I.
No oeraon vas allowed Ump, Edward UL to bathe in the Tower, or In the Thamea neat tba
Tower I wnd«r jtenaliy o dtaOk,
TOWER OF LOlfSON. 793
»ded bere, uid delighted in eombati of the vild twuti kept bera. In Cbarle* !.'■
■i^ manj leading partinni were iiapriioned h^re; And tinder the gertjnimeQt <f
liver Cromwell, and in the ragni of Cberle* II. and Jamea II., the Towei mi
Jed with prUonen, the Tictimi of itate policy, intrigae, tTnmnj, or crime. The
Durta of JustJce, the King's Bencli ind Common Fleu were held here ; tbe rormer in
le LesKT Hall, beaeath the eut tniret of the White Tower ; the latter in the Qreat
all, bj the riTCT. Almoet from the Conqneit, onr eorereigna, at thdr coronatint^
eat in great itala aiid proceauon from tbe Tower, throagh Uie City, to Wertminitcrt
>e last □baarTBOce being at tbe coronation of Charlei II. All the domeitdc ipart-
enta of tbe ancient palace vricUn the Tower were taken down during the reign* gC
irao II. and William and Mir;. In 1792 tbe garriiOD wai inercMtd.
. Hill Town. L. Lutani Town. H. ani Towir. H. ^
tower IwHsr lo lb* Ii<w OUi. P. Dmad KTmw Tqww. Q. ConiUlilt Towtr. R. Nana
wn. B. Brtek^oww. T. Bowjir'i Tower. U. FllntTown. V. BdlTowv. W. DtrlUnTow*
Bflwchanp Tortr. T. Bajird Tower. Z. Viddle Town.
1 Port! or tba ScaflWd. 1. Cf. X Bukln Chnroh. t. Th» Bnlvark Osta. f. Lrw Towtr.
I^DTia QUs. 7. Bl. Ptttr^ Cbunh. B. PoHnn Oile. B. The BUna Kitcbm. 10. Lleoleiunlri
titnri. 11. Jnrd Hgiu*. 11. Hall deoarvL IS. QiiHn'a Gallerj. It. Prlrata Oudcai. IS. Ina
794 CUBI08ITIE8 OF LONDON.
** Serenl hondrad mm. were employed in repairisff the fbrtlficatioDt, opening th* epiihrataf*. sai
moantinfr cannon ; and on the weitern side of the fortrees a strong barrier wma Ammed vith dd cva
ffiled with earth and rabble ; the gates were closed at an early hoar, and no one bat the raflitaiT alkivsi
to go on the ramparts."— jBofiqr.
The Tower JPalace occupied the south-eastern portion of the inner ward, as sbovn
(p. 793) in the plan of the fortress in the reign of Elizaheth, within a cestory tita
which period much of its ancient character was ohliterated by small buildings betvs::
its towers and courts. Northward of the White Tower was built> temp^ James 11. wL
William III., the Chrand Slorehowe for the Royal Train of Artillery, and the ^sy
Armoufy for 150>000 stand of arms : this building, 345 feet in leng^th, was destroyed
by fire October 30, 1841 ;• since which the Tower has been <' remodeDed," auar
small dwelling-houses have been cleared away, and several towers and defencet ha*e
been rebuilt. The houses of Petty Wales and the outworks have been renBoved, vHk
the Menagerie buildings at the entrance from tlie west.
The lAon Tover was built by Henry III.» who oommeneed assembling herei
menagerie with three leopards sent to him by the Emperor Frederic 11., *' in tokca d
his regal shield of arms, wherein those leopards were pictured." Here, in 1255, tii»
Sheriflb built a house " for the King's elephant," brought from France^ and the fsi
seen in England* Our early sovereigns had alio a mews in the Tower :
"Merry ICargaret, as Mldsomer flowr&,
Gentyll as nnoon and hawke of theTowre.*'-HS&ettoM.
To the Lion Tower was built a semicircular enclosure, where lions and bean wm
baited with dogs, in which James I. and his court much delighted. A lion was namsfi
after the reigning Icing ; and it was popularly believed that " when the king dies, tk
lion of that name dies after him" {we also Addison's JBSreeholdery No. 47). " Wai^i:?
the Lions on the first of April" was another popular hoax. The menagerie gresLj
declined until 1822, when it revived under the management of Mr. Cops ; the bst d
the animals were, however, transferred to the Zoological Society's Gardens, in tbi
Regent's Park, in 1834: but the buildings were not entirely removed until 18&3; t)»
Befreshment-room and ticket-office occupy part of the ute of the Ldon Towa. Sm
The Tower Menagerie, with woodcut portraits drawn by Harvey.
The Tower Moat or Ditch was drained in 1843, filled up, and turfed, fat the exercUe
of the garrison : occasionally sheep feed here. The banks ore clothed with thriTxsg
evergreens ; and en the north-east is a pleasant shrubbery •garden.f
** In draining the moat were found seroral stone shot, which had probably been prcjeeted aga&ist fta
ibriress during the siege of 1460, when Lord Scales held the Tower for the king, and the Toikisti oe*
nonaded him from a battery on the Southwark side of the river."— JSrewttt** To»«r amd ita
The knd entrance to the fi>rtress is by the Middle Tbwer, and a stone bridge,
anciently a drawbridge, crossing the Moat» at the south-west angles to tiie Syweri
Tower : these towers were strongly fortified, and provided each with a double pattcs2&^
On the right, a small drawbridge crosses the Moat, and leads to the wharf ironting i^
Thames. Here is Si, Thomoufe Tower : lugs, the Cato-stroet conspirator, wtt ^
last person confined in this Tower. Beneath it is Traitor^ Gate, with a cut vkki
until lately connected the ditch with the river : by this entrance state prisoners wet
formerly brought into the Tower; and through it
*''Went Sidney, Bossell, Raleigh, Cranmtr, More.**— St^itrs.
" When it was found neoessary, from any cause, to eanr a prisoner through tiw streete, the £tedfi
received him firom the king's lieutenants at the entrance to the City, gave a receipt for him. aod toii.
another on delivering him up at the gates of the Tower. The receipt of the Qovemor for the bQ<v d
the Duke of Monmouth—his Uvhig body— is still extant."— Dixon's PHmmm ^Loudom, 186a
Traitor^ Gaie is now a modernized sham. Eastward is the basement-etory of ^
Cradle Tower, in good condition ; the WeU Tower is used as a warder's reaideoee.
* There were 94,600 stands of arms, of which 4000 were saved: loss by the fir«, about astict^
Amon^ the objects destroyed and lost were a cannon of wood, and the state swords of Jostioe aad Ji£7
carried before the Pretender when he was proclaimed in Scotland in 171fi.
t In 1830 the Tower Ditch was filled with water, and cleansed, by order of the Dnke of W^&B«ut>
as Constable ; which measure was gravely described at the time as putting the fortress Into astas: «'
aecah^ against the Reform Bill agitation 1
TOWER OF LONDON. 795
Tbe front wall U embattled, and mounted with cannon ; and on the wharf were for-
Dcrly fired the " Tower Quns.'* Hatton deacribes them, in 1708, as ** 62 gona, lying
n a ranges fast in the ground, always ready to be discharged on any occasion of vie-
ones, coronations, festivals, days of thanksgiving, triumphs^ Ac." The gnns are now
ired from a new ^ Saluting Battery/' fsdng Tower-hill.
between the onter and inner wards extends a narrow street^ in part formerly oocn-
lied by the buildings of the Mint, removed to Tower Hill in 1810. The towers of
be inner ward are— commencing Arom the south-east, the Bell Tower, containing the
larm-beli of the garrison ; it is said to have been the prison-lodging of Fisher, Bishop
f Hochester» and subsequently of the Princess Elizabeth : *" at this point, in former
ao/ea, were other gates, to prevent an enemy getting possession of the line^, and to
aard the approaches to the inner ballium."— JSTak^^.
Between the Bell Tower and the Beauehtunp Tower was formerly a passage by the
sads, used as a promenade for prisoners, of whom the walls bear memorials; among
bexn 18 " Beepicejlnem, W, D." Next, northward, is the Beauehamp or Cobham
7otoer, a curious specimen of tbe military architecture of the 12th and Idth centuries.
Thit tower is named from Thomas Beanohamp, Earl of Warwick, befaw oonfined here la 1897, and
tie Cobfaami In 165i. It wai reitored by Anthonr Salvia in 1864; when lithographed oopiet of the In-
sriptions, Hemoriala, and Devices cut on the walu of the rooms and oelis, were pubUehed by W. B, Dick.
It is much to be regretted that these records in stone have been removed firom
lieir original places into the large room.
Upon the wall is a rebus of Dr. Abel, chaplain to Catherine of Aragon ; a bell in-
cribed TA, and Thomas above. Couplets, maxims, allegories, and apiritual truths
re sometimes added : of these we can only select a few :
«* Thomas WlIlTngar, goldtmithe. Ht hsrt if toots tel dethe." Bj the side Is a flgure of a bleedfaig
art^" and aaothar of *'deUMi» and * T. W." and ** P. A."
"Thomas Roae^
Within this Tower strong
Kept close
By those to whom he did no wrong. Maj 8th, 1668."
The figure of a man, praying, nndemeath " Ro. Bainbridge" (1687-8).
"ThooMS Bawdewin. 1584^ Jvly. As vertve maketh life, lo tin oawseth death."
*" Walter Paslew, dated 1689 k 1670. My hope la in Chriat.'* Derlces of tbe Peverela; and emeifts
nd bleedfaig heart *'J. C. US8." "LeametoftareGod." "Beprens.le.sage.et.il.tesrmeia.—
rake wisdom, snd he shsU snn yon."
Orer the fireplace is inscribed :
"Qoanto ploa affllctionia pro Christo in hoe aacnlo^
Tanto ploa glorias com Chrlato in fntaro.
ArandeU, Jane 22^ 1687."
" Gloria et honore earn coronasti Domine s
In memorla »tema erit Joatns. Atoch ....."
One of the most elaborate devices is that of John Dvdle, Earl of Warwick, tried
nd condemned in 1663 Ibr endeavouring to deprive Mary of the crown ; but being
eprieved, he died in his prison-room, where he had wrought npon the wall his fiunily'a
o£p:»izance^ the lion, and bear and ragged staff, underneath which is his name; the
rfaole surrounded by oak-sprigs, roses, geraniums, honeysuckles, emblematic of the
Hiriitiaii names of his four brotheni, as appears from this inscription t
"Torn thst these beasts do wtl behold sad ae.
May dome with ease whevelbre here made they be
Withe borders eke wherein (there msy be foand)
4 brothers' names, who Uat to aerche the grovna."
Pbe names of tbe four brothers were Ambrose, Robert, Quildford, and Henry : thQi»
i^ acorn ; K, rose ; O, geranium ; H, honeysuckle : others think the rose indicates
Unbrose, and the oak Robert (robur). In another part is carved an oak-tree bearing
oaruB, signed R.D. ; the work of Robert Dudley, Earl of Ldcester.
•*lhs 1671,dislOAprl]is. Wlae men onght drooawpectly to see what they do, to esamine before
Key epeake, to prove before they talM in hand, to beware whose company they a*e, and above all things
o whom they tmste. Charles Bailly.'* Another of BaUly's apophthegma ia : "The moat vnhapy maa
a the world is he thst ia not padent in sdveralllea; for men sre not killed with the sdversities thaj
tave. but with ya faapaelenee which they svlfer."
796 0UBI08ITIE8 OF LONDON.
"O . Lord . whie . ftii . of . hewn . Kinsr . Onurat . gvu . and . lyft • ereriMtig; . to .Hiagb.i
■erruit . in . prison . alon . with • • • • Thomas Miagh." Again :
"Thomas HIagh, whiohe lieth here alon.
That fajne world from hens be gon.
By tortyre stramurn mi troth was
tired, yet of my libertie denied. 1681, ThomaB Myagfa."
(A prisoner ibr treuon, tortared with SkeiBngton's irons and the radc.)
" Hit is the pojnt of a wyse man to try and then trrste, for hapy is he wliome fyjiMh oot t^ a
ivst T. C." Ajraln : ** T. d I lere in hope and I gave credit to mi frinde in time did staade ost aco
in hande. so wovlde I never do againe, exoeptel hade him srer in l^ande, and to al menwkfaelKnti,
Te STsstelne the leke lose as I do. Vnhappie Is that mane whoee aotes doth proone the taaan ci u^-
hovB in prison to indvre. 1576^ Thomas Clarke."
In the State Prison Room oocnrs twice the name of «* JAirs" (Lsdy Jas£ Gre^i,
prohably inscribed by one of the Dudleys, who were all imprisoned here in 1553, td
one of whom, Qnildford, was the lady's hnsband : this is the only memorial yteten-
of Lady Jane in the Tower. Wallace, the Scottish hero, is erronooosly named ai&A'
the prisoQers here ; for Wallace was not confined in any part of the Tower, is ^om
in a paper by Mr. W. Sydney Qibson, F.S.A., Notes and Queries, Na 213, p. 50a
The memorial of Thomas Salmon, 1622, now let into the wall of the middk rtx^
was formerly in the upper prison-lodging :
A shield snrrounded by a circle ; above the circle the name "T. Salmon ;" a crest fimoedof C^
salmons, and the date 14122; underneath the circle the motto N«e Umen, nse fMHrr— "Ndtberi^'-T
nor with fear." Also a star containing the abbreviation of Christ, in Greek, surrounded by the ae^ax
aic viot vt oimw— " So live that thoa mayest live." In the opposite corner are the words, £t aovro
nortcrw—" And die that thoa mayest die not." Burronnding a representation of Desth's be^s^-
the device, is the enomnation of Salmon's confinement : ** Close prisoner 8 moneths, 31 wekes, SiivA
0376 houres."
On the ground-floor is incised :
"The man whom this hoose can not mend.
Hath evill Iwoom, and worse will end."
, . ?.*>
which
they, pool
sago the Whispering Oallery."~I)ixon's Fritoiu, I860; p. 70.
Raleigh was thrice imprisoned in the Tower ; in 1592 (eight weeks), for vinnis
the heart of Elizabeth Throgmorton, one of Elizabeth's nuuds of honour; "not oolji
moral sin, but in those days a heinous political offence." In 1604 be was again co^
mitted to the Tower, and in the frenzy of despair attempted to stab himself to tk
heart ; he remained here a captive nearly thirteen years, part of the time with Idj
Raleigh : here, 1605, was bom Carew, their second son. Sir Walter's prisoQ-lodgii^
is thought to have been the second and third stories of the Beauchamp Tower; ba«
he devoted much time to chemistry and pharmaceutical preparations. "HehasaS'
verted," says Sir William Wade, Lieutenant of the Tower, "a little hen-boose in tiv
garden into a still-house, and here he doth spend his time all the day in distiSt-
tioos ; . . » ho doth show himself upon the wall in his garden to tbe rieir of ^
people :" here Raleigh prepared his '* rare cordial,"* wrote his political disoocrssi
and commenced his famous History of the World, He was at length libentedi
but again committed to the Tower, about two months before his execatioa £
Westminster.
Baleigh's constant stody was in the pages of that Divine book, hj which, as he told the dei;^
who rebuked him for his seeming lightness, on the eve of his beheadal, he had prepared bioBseB"
look fearlessly on death. His last hours were each an episode, and his acts and words han ^
carefully recorded. On the morning of his execntion, his keeper bronght a cap of sack to hi^^
inouired how he was pleased with itP ** As well as he who drank of St. Gilers bowl ss he J^i
T^ume," answered the knight, and said, "it was a good drink, if a man might but ianybT&
*' Prithee, never fear, Beeston," cried he to his old friend Sir flogh, who was repolsed from tbe «^
by the sheriiT, *' I shall have a place !" A bald man, from extreme age, pressed forward "to aee b^^
he said, **and pn^^ God for him." Baleigh took a richly-embroidered cap from his own ^^^
phusingit on that of the old man, said, *'Take this, good friend, to remember me, Ibr roa bsr«g»^
need oT it than I." " Farewell, my lords," was his cheerful parting to a ooortly group, who &ff«f^f^
took their sad leave of him, " 1 have a long journey before me, and I must e'en say good-brt." ^
I am going to Ood," said that heroic spirit, as he trod the scaffold ; and, gently touching tbe u^' ^
,' This is a sharp medidne, bat it will cure all diseases." The very heiu&maa shrank fioia bdusH
• Baleiffh's ''Rare Ckirdial," with other ingredients introdaoed by Sir Kenekn Digby <b^ ^^
Praier, is the CoitftcHo atromaUoa of the present London Pharmacopoeia.
TOWER OF LONDON. 797
ne so illostrioas and brave, until the onqnailing soldier addressed him, ** What dost thou tenf Strike^
ian !" In another moment^ the mighty soul had fled ih}m its mangled tenement.
Kaleigh's shifting impriflonmeDts must have been very irksome. Thus, in 1603,
"In the course of a few months Balelgh was first confined in his own house, then convejed to the
'ower, next sent to Winchester Gaol, returned from thence to the Tower, imprisoned for between two
nd three months in the Fleet, and again removed to the Tower, where he remained until released
tiirteen years afterwards, to undertake his new expedition to Guiana." (Mr. J. Payne Collier;
' * ' ' — ~ ... - .. tract, "A Good Speed to
rr. Lond.;" showing that
himself as a prisoner m the
Tower of London.
We learn from the Memorials of the Tower, by Lord De Ros, the Lientenant-
rovemor, that the late Prince Consort interested himself to preserve the remains of the
riglnal building, and caused it to be declared that " no edifice within the Tower walls
hould be built, altered, or restored until the plans and elevations should have been
abmitted for the Queen's personal approval."
North of the Beauchamp Tower is the JDevereux Tower, wbich has been rebuilt
mder the durection of the Ordnance. The original tower, with walls 11 feet thick,
ras the prison-lodging of Robert Devereux, Earl of Essex ; in the lower chambers
pere passages leading to the adjoining Chapel op St. Peteb, described at p. 198.
Eastward are the Flint, Bowyer, and Brick Towert, which have also been rebuilt
)y the Ordnance. In the Bowyer Tower resided the Master and Provider of the
king's Bows ; and in a work-room over this tower originated the fire which destroyed
be Grand Storehouse in 1841 : the basement, strongly groined and vaulted, has been
estored. Beneath the floor is a still more dreary vault, with a trap-door opening
ipon a flight of steps. The Brick Tower, the reputed prison-house of Lady Jane
xrey, had its modernized superstructure destroyed in the fire of 1841 ; but the original
)asement and a dungeon beneath remained.
The Martin Tower, at the north>east angle, was formerly a prison-lodging, and next
he Jewel Tower. Anne Boleyn was imprisoned here : on the walls is a coat-of-arms
md " BouUen :" she slept in the little upper room. Bobert Devereux, Earl of Essex,
ind Lord Southampton (Shakspeare's friend), were also prisoners in the Martin Tower ;
Old here were confined, by James II., Archbishop Sancroft and the six bishops. The
deeper of the Begalia resides here. Thence, southward, is the Constable Tower, rebuilt
}y the Ordnance. Next is the Broad Arrow Tower, in its original condition : Lady
Fane Grey was a prisoner here : the Latin couplet which Fox states Jane scratched
vith a pin upon the walls of her chamber, can nowhere be fbund. The Salt(petre)
Tower is called ** Julius CsBsar Tower " in a survey temp. Henry V III., and is sup-
)03ed to be actually of the reign of William Bufus. It is circular, and has a vaulted
lungeon : in the first-story chamber, among the devices and inscriptions cut in the
vail, is a sphere with the ugns of the zodiac, and
* Hew : Draper : of: Brietow : made : thys ; spheer : the : 90 : daye : of : Mays ; anno 1661.**
!)raper was a wealthy tavern-keeper at Bristol, and was committed here "as suspect
)f a conjuror or sorcerer," practLung against "Sir William St. Lowe and my ladle;"
)ut he affirmed that " longe since he soe misliked his science, that he burned all his
Kwks." A view of the Salt Tower, taken in 1846, is etched in Archer's Veetigee^
)art iii. : it has been restored by Salvin.
Next the Salt Tower, westward, was the Latdem Tower, removed for the Ordnance
Office, greatly heightened in 1854. Further west is the Record Tower, also called
WaJcefleld, from the imprisonment of the Yorkists here after the battle of Wakefield,
L460 : this was also anciently the Sail Tower, from its proximity to the great hall of
;he palace : the basement is Norman, probably of the reign of William Rufhs ; the
vails are 18 feet thick. The upper chamber has been a Record-room since the reign
)f Henry YIII. : here are the carta antiquce and chancery rolls, chronologically ranged
n presses. Opposite the chamber in \vhich Henry VI. is supposed to have been
nurdered, is the Record-keeper's room, where hong some of the Keepers' portraits t
iVilliam Lambarde, the topographer; the learned Selden; the Puritan, William
E^rynne ; and William Petyt, Samuel Lysons^ and Henry Petrie^ were distinguished
Record-keepers. The Octagon is " Edward the Confessor's Room."
798 0UEI08ITIE8 OF LONDON,
Adjoining the Beoord Tower, westward, is the Bloody Tower : here, m & dd
windowleH room, in which one of the portcullises was worked, George Dob s
Clarence is said to hare heen drowned in malmsey ; in the adjoining chamber, the tr
princes are said to have heen *' smothered ;" whence the name o€ Bloody Tover. Tb
has heen much disputed; hot in a tract ten^. James I. we read that the ibsff
" turret oar elders termed the Bloodg Tower; for the bloodshed, as they ssj, of tbxe
infimt princes of Edward IV^ whom Richard III., of coxaed memory (I drnddv ti
mention it), savagely killed, two together at one time." In the latter dnmber v3
imprisoned Colonel Hutchinson, whose wife, daughter of Sir Allen Apsley, lieakaii;
of the Tower, where she was bom, related the above traditiona. This por^ ▼»
formerly called the Garden Tower; it was built temp. Edward III., and is the cc;
ancient place of security, as a state prison, in the Tower : it is entered through x eu.
door in the inner ballium ; it oonsirts of a day-room and a bed-room, and the lesdi o
which the prisoner was sometimes allowed to breathe the air. The last perscn vbi
oocuined these apartments was Arthur ThisUewood, the Cato-street ctrnqnisz-
Westward are the JjieutenaiU't Lodginge (the Lieutenant's rendenoe), chiefly tisbs*
built, Ump, Henry YIII. ; in 1610 was added a chamber having a prospect to sLtbr
three gates of the Tower, and enabling the lieutenant to call and look to the nries
In the " Council Chamber" the Commissioners examined Guy Fawkes and his si»»
ptices^ as commemorated in a Latin and Hebrew inscription npon a parla-aioanJ
marble monument ; and elsewhere in the building there was diaoovered, about VA
" an inscription carved on an old mantelpiece relating to the Countee of LeooL
grandmother of James I., ' commytede prysner to thys Logynge for the Mange of k
Sonne my Lord Henry Damle and the Queen of Scotlande.' " (Hewitt* s Toteer, k)
Here a bust of James I. was set up, in 1608, by Sir WlUiam Wade, then LientaiiB::
the walls are painted with representations of men inflicting and sufiering torture; lai:
the room is reputed to be haunted! The last person conflned in the lodgings^
was Sir Francis Bnrdett^ committed 1810, for writing in Cobbetfa Weekfy RegidiT.
** Beddet the ' pricon lod^n,* there were other still more terrible chambets in the Toirer ; dar.t^
eepedalljr conetmcted with a view tothe tortareof tiieir innuitee. Oneof theie was celled 'Little EV '
a cell BO Bintll in ita dimenttont, that it waa impoeaible for the priaoner to atand erect or to Ik <&■'▼'•
except in a cramped poeition (MoUmkedf toL IU. p. 825). Anotaer was named ' The Fit/ Odtm r
said to have been foil of vermin, especially rats, which at hifffa water were driven up in shosb froo Ur
Thames. The Deril's Tower probably took its name from some eomtnoame* qftkU mjmI."— iTflpfr.
** An Inscription recently found in an a^oining room tells ns a State secret, that Margaret DoaeU
Countess of Lennox, mother of unhappy Damley, was conflned in these lodfinga by EBaUKth, ce »»
vicion of being concerned in the mamage of her son with Mary Queen of S^ta. Mtfgsnt i^'
Ijondon for many years.**— Jfr. Stpwortk Dixon't ^aptr read to tt« ArduBologietd Itulw*, IH6S,
The Place of Sxeeution wUkin the Tower on the Qreen was reserved for puttiict}
death privately; and the predse spot, nearly opposite the door of St. Peter's Chapel, i>
denoted by a large oval of dark ^nts : hereon perished Anne Bolejrn and CatheRV
Howard, Maigaret Countess of Salisbury, and Lady Jane Grey.
The Bloody Tower gateway, built temp. Edward III. (opposite Traiiori GixttVi
the main entrance to the Inner Ward : it has masnve gates and portcullis^ comp^
at the southern end; but those at the north end have been removed.
" The gates are genuine, and the portcullis is said to be the only one remaining in England £t ''^
use. The archwsy forms a noble specimen of the Doric order of Gothic For a piiaon entrsnoe we ka^
of no more perfect modeL"— Weale's LoiuUm, p. 100.
Westward of the White Tower, between the Chapel and Lieutenant's Lodgii^ **
the '* Tower Green," now the parade-ground of the garrison. Northward, opoa tbe
aite of the Grand Storehouse,* are the Waterloo Barracks (to receive 1000 meB\ ^
the *' modem castellated style," its only ancient features being battlements and ou^
eolations : the first stone was laid June 14, 1846, by the Duke of WeUington, of vb^a
here was a pedestrian stone statue, by Milnes, upon a pedestal, now renKned 0
Woolwich Arsenal.
North-east of the White Tower is another "modem castellated" range of \sv^^
for the officers of the garrison. South-eastward are the unsightly pUes d ii
Ordnance Office and Store-houeee,
* The large pediment of the Storehouse, flDed with bold sculptures of the royal arms, r^B^^
Bkilitary trophies, was preserred, and has been set up opposite the Martin Tower.
TOWEB OF LONDON. 799
Thb Whitb Towxb, citadel, or keep (for many years of itself "the Tower of
l#ondon," the other buildings having been added as oatworks), was began by Bubop
jundulph, in 1078, on the site of a work said to have been destroyed by floods. The
sternal dimensions of the White Tower are 176 feet north and soath by 96 feet east
ind west, with an eastern semidrcnlar projection, the apsis of the chapeL The eleva-
tion is 92 feet ; it is embattled ; and its angles are finished with turrets, the vanes of
^hich are sormomited with the royal crown. The north and south-western turrets
ire square^ with a slight projection ; the south-eastern turret is built upon the summit
>f the wall ; and that at the north-eastern angle is an irregular drcle, and was pierced
bo receive four dock-dials in 1864. This tower was called the ObtiBroaiory, and was
smployed by the " Astronomical Observator, John Flamsteed," who had *' an hundred
poundes yearly peyd him out of this office (of Ordnance) :" it contains a staircase
which communicates with each of the floors, from the vaults to the roof, which is
covered with lead, and was once a promenade for the prisoners. Traces of a large
archway on the north ride indicate the original grand entrance, shown in the oldest
views ; the present entrances, north and south, are modem. The external walls are
from 10 to 12 feet thick, and the internal walls 7 feet ; of these there are only two,
which divide each floor into three apartments. The White Tower was first considerably
repaired about the middle of the 18th century; next, with Caen stone, in 1532;
** it was almost new erected in 1637 and 1638, being built of boulder and square stone'*
(Hatton) } and windows and other ancient features were obliterated in the reign of
William III. On the eastern side is a wing occapied for Ordnance books and papers.
Here, eire, 1708, were " 3000 barrels of gunpowder at a time, with vast quantities of
match ; also swords and gin for mounting great gpns ; and on the east side is a place
where the powder is proved before the surveyor and other officers."
On the first floor is Queen JSlizabeth*e Armoury, with a vaulted roof: on the north
ride a door opens to a cell, 10 feet by 8, in the thickness of the wall ; this is said to
have been the prison-lodging of Sir Walter Raleigh; near the cell entrance are
inocribed Rndstone, Fane, and Calpeper, all implicated in Sir Thomas Wyafa
rebellion.
" Ho thst indvreih to the ends shal bo MTld
H 3 10 B. KTdaton. Dtt. Kent. Ano. 1663."
** Be ftlthfVl vnto the deth snd I wil give thee a crowue of LiliB,
T Fane 1654."
"T Crlpeper of AUsford, Kent."
On the second floor, reaching to the roof, is the Chapel qfSt. John the JStangeliH, the
most perfect specimen of Norman architecture in the metropolis ; it has an apsis, and
a gallery supported by 12 massive round columns, united by semicircular arches : here
our early sovereigns knelt before the King of kings. Three stained-glass windows
were added to this chapel by Henry III. : it was long used as a reccnrd deporitory.
In the third floor is the Coundl Chamber, a state apartment, with a masrive timber
roof: here the Protector Qloucester ordered Lord Hastings to be led to instant execu-
tion in front of St. Peter's Chapel ; and commanded the arrest of the Archbishop of
York, the Bishop of Ely, and Lord Stanley. King John of France was lodged in the
White Tower in 1357. The vaults underneath were occupied as prisons : among their
inscriptions is one carved by Fisher, Bbhop of Rochester. Throughout the btulding
there is no trace of a fireplace or of a welL The Council Chamber and Banqueting
Hall are now filled with rifios ready for use. Hitherto, they had been used as store-
roomi, and the present alteration was made at the suggestion and from the designs of
the late Prince Consort. They now form two splendid armouries, the Council Chamber
containing 20,000 and the Banqueting Hall 31,000 Enfield and short rifles, ready at
any time for immediate use. The passages, walls, ceilings, beams, Ac, are richly
ornamented with swords, bayonets, lanoes, pistolsj, and various other weapons, some of
them now obsolete.
A Mper drawn ap 1^ a jeoman-wsrder, in 1641, ihowi the White Tower to hsve then been the Oflke
of Ordnjoiee: the Murtm Tower wae iMigned to the Porter of the Hint: the Bjwerd snd Water-gate
Towers to the wsrders{ snd eleven other towers were "prison*lodgings.''
Mr. Hepworth Dixon's paper, elsewhere quoted, is a very attractive frScia of the
800 CURIOSITIES OF LONBOK
history of tbe Tower, narrated with poetic verve, and arcbosological identaficataon. Of
Charles of Orleans, the brave soldier and poet-prince, who was captured at Aginooort,
and remained prisoner in the Tower fiye>and-twenty years, Mr. Dixon tells ns, there is
in the MS. department of the British Museum a copy of the prince's French poeiDs,
nobly iUominated. " One of the drawings in this MS. is of peculiar interest : in tbe
first place, as being the oldest view of the Tower extant ; in the second phice, in fixlc^
the exact chamber in the White Tower in which the poet was confined, and di^lsj^ing
dramatically the life which he led. First we see the prince at his desk, oomposing ks
poems, with his gentlemen in attendance, and his guards on duty. Nert we observe
him on a window>nU looking outwards into space. Then we have him at tbe foot of
the White Tower, embracing the messenger who brings him the ransom. Again, w^
see him mounting his horse. Then we hsYC him and his friendly messenger ridhif
away from the Tower. Lastly, he is seated in a barge, which losty rowers are palliof
down the stream, for the boat which is to carry him to France.'* Mr. Dixon's japer
is printed in the Athenaum, No. 2021.
Jmpmoiifiienfo.-^ITpwards of 1000 prisoners have been confined in the chambers
and cells of the Tower at one time. Among the celebrated persons imprisoned here,
besides those already named, were : a.d. 1100. Ralph Flambard, the militant Bisko
of Durham. 1296. Balliol, King of Scotland, and Scottish chieftains. 1307. Lad;
Badlesmere^ for refusing the queen of Edward II. lodging in her castle of Ijeeds^ Kcst.
1347. Charles of Blois, and the twelve citizens of Calais with tbe gOFemor. 1386.
Qeofirey Chaucer, said to have here written his Testtnnent of Lova. (Chancer vis
appointed clerk of the works, July 13, 1389, 13th Bichard XL) 1415. The Duke d
Orleans, father of Louis XII., composed here a volume of English poems, which contains
the earliest view of the Tower. 1534. John Fisher, Bishop of Rochester ; and S*?
Thomas More. 1540. Thomas Cromwell, Earl of Essex. 1547. The Duke of Norf&k
and his son, the poet Earl of Surrey.
" xxxTiy^* A? (Hen. VIII.) Thys jere the x^th ^j of December the dewke of Korffi>ke and the yvr'^
of Sorr^ hys sonne ware comyttyd unto the tower of London, and the dewke went be waiter from xt".
lordo ohaunselen place in Uolborne that was Bometrme the byshoppe of Ely's* >nd aoo downa on to t^
watter syde, and to be watter on to the tower : and hyi sonne the yerle of Sorrd went thorrow tbe en^*
of London, xnakynffe grete lamentadon. * * Item the IS. day of Janoar^ was the yerle of Soney Ibo^
from the tower of Loudon an to the yelde halle of London, and there he was from ix. onto jt was r. u
nyght, and there had hys joggement to be heddyd : and soo the xix. day of the same numth it was dcat
n the Toiyre hylle."— Ckfxm. Or^ Firian qflandon.
1553. Cranmer, Latimer, and Ridley. Latimer was also a prisoner here from 1541 ta
1547. 1554. Sir Thomas Wyat. 1562. The Earl of Southampton, the friend of
Shakspeare. 1606. Ouy Fawkes and his fellow-conspirators. 1622. Lord Chanoefls^
Bacon, "a broken reed;" Sir Edward Coke, a close prisoner. 1613. Sir Thomzt
Overbnry, supposed to have been poisoned by his gaoler. 1616. The Connteag d
Somerset,* for Overbury's murder. 1626. *' Mr. Moor was sent to the Tower for
speaking (in Parliament) out of season; and Sir William 'Wlddrington and Sir Herbal
Price for bringing in candles against the desire of the House." (Dwarrie, on St<xtwtex,
p. 83.) 1628. Felton, the assassin of the Duke of Buckingham ; Sir John EDbt.
second imprisonment ; John Selden. 1641. Thomas Wentworth, Earl of Strafford :
Archbishop Laud, and Bishop HaU. 1648. The pious Jeremy Taylor. 1651. Sr
"William Davenant, whose life was saved by Milton and Whitelock. 1656. Leer
Barlow, mother of the Duke of Monmouth : she was liberated by Oliver Cromwell
1661. Harrington, who wrote the Oceana, 1679. Viscount Stafford* beheaded 16Si\
1679. Samuel Pepys, the diarist, suspected of connexion with the Popish Plot ; liberated
on bail for 80,000;. 1681. The Earl of Shaftesbury. 1683. WilUam Lord Rasa£
and Algernon Sidney. 1685. James Duke of Monmouth. 1688 (the Bevohxtiee).
The infamous Lord Jeffreys; William Penn, for street preaching ; the Seven Blshoi&
1692. The great Duke of Marlborough. 1712. Sir Robert Walpole, for reoeiTing
bribes. 1715. Harley, Earl of Oxford; the Earls of Derwentwater and Nithsdsk.
1717. WiUiam Shippen, *' downright Shippen" {Pope), 1722. Bishop Atterboiy sad
the Earl of Orrery. 1746. Lords Kilmarnock, Balmerino, and Lovat. 17G(X £vi
* The Coontesi of Somerset's "only child, bom in tlie Tower during her imprisonment, ttxd oaoei
Anne, after the name of the Queen, in the hopes thereby of propitiating her migesty, was ^
married to the Duke of Bedford, and was the mother of William Lord Bussell."— .Imoe.
TOWER OF LONDON. 801
'eiren, hanged for murder. 1762. John Wilkes ; no charge specified. 1780. Lord
reorge Qordon (Riots). 1794. John Home Tooke, Hardy, Tfaelwall, Holcroft^ and
them. 1810. Sir Francis Bordett. 1820. Cato-street conspirators.
The ConHable of the Tower was formerly styled the Conttable of London, the
^onalabU of the Sea, and the Constable qfihe Sonowr of the Tower; which post was
[>nfcrred hy William I. upon Qeofiry de Mandeville, in reward of his services at the
attle of Hastings. The Constable, besides hb salary, privileges* and perquisites,
fmp, Edward II. received a custom of 2d, from each person going and returning by
he Thames, on a pilgrimage to St. James's shrine. In the reign of Richard II. the
!onstable received yearly 100/., with fees from his prisoners, according to their rank,
for the suit of his irons :" of every duke committed, 202. : and for irons, earl, 20
oarks; baron, 101,; knight, 100 sellings. The Constable's salary is now a little
inder 950^, with an official residence. The gpreat Duke of Wellington was Constable
rom 1820 to his death in 1852, and was succeeded by Visoount Combermere, at whose
leath Sir John Fox Burgoyne received the appointment. On taking possession, the
lew Constable is by the Lord Chamberlain presented with the keys of the fortress, in
he name and on behalf of Her Miyesty the Queen; the Yeomen Warders, following
01 ancient custom on such oocftdious, respond '* Amen" in chorus, the troops give a
ioyal salute and present arms, and the band plays the National Anthem. The Con-
ttable is then formally presented to the officers of the garrison, and conducted over
;he armoury. The Liimtenant of the Tower is next in rank to the Constable ; but the
iuties of both offices are performed by the Deputy-LietUenant and the 7\noer Major,
Colonel Qurwood, editor of the Duke of Wellington's Leepaiehee, was long Deputy*
[iientenant The Qentleman Gaoler had the custody and loddng-up of the state
nisonen. The Yeomen Warders, of whom there were forty-five, originally kept
vatch over the prisoners: in the reign of Edward YI., the Duke of Somerset, in re-
urn for the attention and respect they paid him whilst in confinement, procured them,
liter his liberation, <* to be swome extraordinary of the gpiard, and to weare the same
ivery they doe." The old uniform is now only worn on State occasions. The new
Iress was made in 1858. Tlie old cub is retained, the alterations bemg in the colour
)f the doth and the trimmings. The tunic or frock is of dark blue cloth, with a
Town in red doth on the breast, and V.R. underneath; two bands of red doth
■ound the sleeve% the same as the skirt. A doak is supplied for indement weather,
rhe Teomen at present number forty-eight: they are dd and deserving -non-com*
nisstoned officers.
Lockinff-up the Toioer is an andent, enrious, and statdy ceremony. A few minutei
)cfore the dodc strikes the hour of eleven^on Tuesdays and Fridays, twdve— the
flead Warder (Yeoman Porter), dothed in a long red doak, bearing a huge bunch of
ceys, and attended by a brother warder carrying a lantern, appears in front of the
natn gnard-house, and loudly calls out, " Escort keys !" The sergeant of the guard,
rith five or six men, then turns out and follows him to the " Spur," or outer gate ;
Mch sentry challenging as they pass his post, ** Who goes there P"^** Keys." The
(ates bdng carefully locked and barred, the procesnon returns, the sentries exacting the
lame explanation, and reodving the same answer as before. Arrived once more in
Vont of the main guard-house, the sentry there g^ves a loud stamp with his foot, and
isks, •* Who goes there ?"— " Keys." « Whose keys ?"— « Queen Victoria's keys."
' Advance Queen Victoria's keys, and all's welL". The Teoman Porter then exdaims^
'Qod bless Queen Victoria !" The main guard respond, "Amen." The officer on
luty gives the word, " Present arms !" the firelocks rattle; the officer kisses the hilt
)f his sword; the escort fall in among their companions; and the Teoman Porter
narches across the parade alone to deposit the keys in the Lieutenant's Lodgings,
rhe ceremony over, not only is all egress and ingpress totally precluded, but even within
he walls no one can stir without bdng furnished with the counterngn.
The Tower has a separate coroner ; and the public have access to the fbrtresi
miy by suiferance. When Horwood made his Survey of London, 1799, he waa
len'ied admission to the Tower ; and the refusal is thus recorded upon the map :—
' The Tower : the internal parts not distinguished, being refused permiasion to takt
iie survey."
8 V
802 OUEI08ITIE8 OF LONDON.
The IWer is extn^psrodikl ; and in 1861 the popaktiaii was 882» and &e wS&tiaj
in bamcks 606.
Thb ABMOUBm.^Tbe fortress has been the depositafy of the nafaonal arms and
aoooutrements ftom the earlieit ages of onr monarchy; and writs of TaricMis dstei
ennmerate warlike stores contained in or issaod from the Tower by ** the Keepfr cf
the Arms.'* In an inventory temp, Edward Y I. are mentioned many of the artidrs
in the present collection ; and Hentzner describes tiie Armoaries in the resgn of Eliza-
beth as one of the sights of London.
The Horee Armoury, 160 feet long, is on the sonth nde of the White TVMrer, and
was built in 1826» wh^ it was arranged by Sir Samnel Meyrick. In the centre ii a
line of twenty-two eqnestrian figures, in the armour of Tarious reigns from Edward L
to James II. Over each figure is a crimson banner bearing the name and time of the
king or knight repres^ted by the effigy below ; but only a few of the annoon hare
been actually worn by the persons to whom they are assigned. Aronnd the room are
ranged other figures/in armour, interspersed with military trophies and emblems ; be-
sides other mounted^figures ; arms of diiferent ages ; helmets, cmraasei^ shieliH ^ ;
and on the ceiling are displayed obsolete arms and accoutrements in fimdfnl derioeL
The equestrian figures are of the time of
Sdmard I. (127SVh-8nit of a hraberk, with iIm^m and chmweeiH and ahood with camails eqjux^
topped shield ; priclfspan ; rarMMt and bandrlcy modem.
M*nrf VI. (1460).— Back and breast plates of flexible armoor ; diaiiHnaa aleevea and dart ; flgtH
gaoDtlets; helmetA la Cade^ with a frontlet and surmoonttDg crest; the horse honsing emhlazoeed
with the arms of ftance and England; flnted duuiflWm.
Edward IV, ?1465).— Tournament suit, with tilting lance; war>saddle, aooMwhat later; hone
hoosinn, blfek, towdered with the king's badges the white rose and son; a spiked etumbaa.
horse'snead. [
Xn^JU. taap./Bicfaard III. (1483-146S).— Bibbed German armour; tilting appard and oeigiaal tiJti^
lance : this snit was worn at the Eglinton Tooraament bj the Marqnis of waterfocd.
XniffkL UmjL HeuT VII. (1486-1609).— Floted ((German) salt; boraonet hehnet. Suit of flalcd
armour of the nme reign; ancient sword, battle-axe, and war-sa^e; horse armoor flnted^ aod ocJ^
wanting the flancharda.
JETmry VIII. (1620).— Damasked armoor aetoally worn by this Unf . Two mlta of the aane reign,
worn by Charl^ Brandon, Duke of Suffolk, and Edward Clinton, Earl oi Lincoln. In a reoeaa ia **<»« ^
ih$ wuMt ewifm$ tuih ^armour in tkt world," of German worknunship, once gUt, and made to ceoaae>
morate the marriage of Henry VIII. and Katherine <^ An^on: it is most elaborately enffrared with
the rose and pomegranate, portcuUis^ fleara*de-lis, and red dragon; "H. K.,*' imiied qr annie-loTcr »-
knot; saintly legends, mottoes, fte.
Edward K^ (1662K— Rnsset armoor, oorered with beantiftd filagree^work; borganet hdmet; hone
armour complete, embossed with the oombined badges of Burgundy and Granada.
Franeu Hatting; Earl <^ KwHltiin^diim (1566).— Bichly gUt snit» with indented alaaheo; weight of
n armour fzoeeos 100 Iba.
ibwi DtkiUy, BarlifLeicfter (1660).— Tilting soit actoally worn by Ldoester, Ump. Elizabeth :
it bears the initials "B. v.," and the earl's cognizanoe of the bear and ragged staff: thJa siut ** was kcf^t
in the tilt-yard, where it was exhibited on particular days^ (Iftyidb).
Bir Httuy Lta (1670).— Suit of plate.
Bobert Deomreux, Earl qfEaaex (1681).— Soit of armoor, richly engraved and gilt ; boiguMel hrimst
This armoor was worn bT the Kingrs Champion at the ooronatioa of George IL
Jam4» I. (1606). — Plam snit of ulUng armour. Of the same period are the soits of ei^Karpie armoar
assigned to Sir Horaoe Vera, and Thomas Howard, Earl of ArondeL
Heiuy Frimoa <^ WaU$ (16U).— Bichly-gilt soit made fiv the prince; engiared with ^■hu.
sieges, AC.
emrm VUiian, Daht of Buehm^fitam (1618).— Foil salt of plate.
An FrimM ^Walm (1620).— Suit made for the prince when about twelTe ;
CkarU$ FHnet qfWalm (1620).— Suit made for the prince when about twelTe years old.
Tkomaa Wtntw^ilLEarl ofStrqford (16S6).— Armoar oontinned only to the knees.
CkarUt I. (1640).— Magnifloent suit presented to Charies, when Prince of Wales, by the Armoarerc*
Company of the dty of London : it is richlr gilt and arabeaqoed ; ihce is canred by Gibbons. Tills snit
was laid on the coffin of the great Duke of Marlborough, in his funeral procession.
James II. (1686).— (Tuirass over a velTcf coat; casque and piorced riaor: the head wm earred by
Gibbons, as a portrait of Charlea IL
Here also are: a swordsman (Henry VII.). A man-at-arms and fbot-aoJdler
Henry VIII.). ** Armour cap-a-pe, rough from the hammer, said to he Kmg Henry y*
Sths." Snits helonging to the Princes Henry and Charles, sons of James I. CftnUipn
and pikemen (temp. Charles I.). A fragment of ** penny pUte armoar." Magnifi-
cent suit of Italian armour, engraved and gilt. Cuirasses from Waterloa Ancient
suits of chain-maiL Halbards,* shields, and hehnets. *"rhe Norman Cmsader,"
really an Asiatic suit of mixed chain and plate. Very carious helmets. Fiecea of a
* The halbard remained in use among our troops till within 60 yean, and m^ stdl be seen as an
official weapon in our courts of Justice. The warders of the Tower are still armed with the parttan • it
is still earned by the watchmen in Denmark.
TOWEB OF LONDON. 803
uffcd and engraved soit of armoar (temp, Henxy VIII.)> extremely rare. Ancient
German bone saddle, with Teutonic inscription. The ** Anticke Headpiece with rames
lomes and speckakeU on it of Will Somera," jester to Henry VIII. Specimens of
tand firearms. Ancient warder's horn, of carved ivory. Chinese military dresses
rem Chnsan. Helmet» belt» straight sword, and scimitars of Tippoo Saib. Concave
ondelle with spiked boss, snch as is seen in the picture of "Henry the Eighth's £m-
larcation at Dover/' at Hampton Court.
Pftrt of a horse armour of emir bauilU, extremely rare and curious. On the columns
Te groups of arms now in use among continental powers ; arms employed in England
rom the time of James IL to the present reign ; and projects for the improvement
f war implements.
Here are celts ; ancient British axes, swords, and spears, of bronze (one axe found
lear Hastings, supposed Ump, Harold) ; a British battle-axe fbund in the Thames in
.829 ; Boman spear-head ; Saxon daggers and battie-axes.
At the top of the stairs are two rudely-carved wood figures, "Gin'' and " Beer,**
rom over the buttery of the old palace at Greenwich. A very curious Indian suit of
Tmour, sent to Charles 11. by the Great MoguL Ten small cannon, presented by the
irass-founders of London to Charles II. when a boy.
Queen JElUabeth'e Armowy, cased with wood in the Norman style, is entered at the
•stem side of the White Tower : the windows are filled with stained gUus, in part
ndent. Here is an equestrian figure of Elizabeth, in a foe nmile of the robe worn
ly her on going to St Paul's to return thanks. The weapons collected here were
wrought originally from " The Spanish Weapon House," and were long ca^ed " The
Spanish Armoury," misinterpreted as the spoils of tiie Spanbh Armada. These
reapons were mostly used temp. Henry VIII. and Elizabeth. The collection of spears
s interesting. Here is the Morning-star, or Holy-water (blood) Sprinkle, a spiked
lall on a pole, used by infantry fh>m the Conquest till temp, Henry VIII. The walls
tre hung with early shields. Two bows of yew, fh>m the wreck of the Mary Bote,
.545 ; early kite shield; two cross-hilted swords, ten^. Crusaders, authentic and rare,
rhumb-screws, or thumbikms ; the " Iron CoUer of Torment, taken from y* Spanyard
n J* yeare 1588 ;" the iron Cravat, "Scavenger's or SkeflBngton's Daughter." Ancient
!h«sset» with spear-head. Mace-cannon, carried at the saddle-bow. Long-pikes and
KMir-spears, in the Tower temp, Edward VI. Large pavoise, or archer's shidd. " Great
lolly-water Sprinde^ with three gonnes in the top." Spontoon of the guard of
lenry VIII. Guisarmes and glaives, partisans, lanoes, pikes, and halbards. On the
loor is the heading-axe with which the Earl of Essex was executed, teti^, Elizabeth,
leading-block on which Lords Balmerino, Kilmarnock, and Lovat were decapitated
n Tower-hill, in 1746. The money received for admission to the Armouries is ex-
tended in adding to the collection; thus, in 1858, a beantiful suit of Greek armour,
[>nnd in a tomb at CumsB, was purchased for 2002. : it is shown in the Horse
Lnnoury.
Among the CuriotUiet mentioned by Hatton, 1708, is the sword which Lord
Cingsale took from a French guard, for which he and his posterity have the fovour of
idng covered in the king's presence. On the stairs is part of the keel of the Boyal
leorge, sunk in 1782.
In the Ante-room added to Queen Elizabeth's Armoury, fitted up in 1581, from the
•Ian of Mr. Staoey, Ordnance Storekeeper, are a group of cannon from Waterloo, two
etUe-dmms from Blenheim ; and specimens, andent uid modem, of every description
f weapon now in the Tower. Here are also the sword and sash of Keld Marshal the
>uko of York ; and General Wolfe's cloak, on which he died before Quebec. In the
entre of the room is a beautifully ornamented bronze gun. Here are two large brass
una taken at Quebec by General Wolfe, a stand of cross-bows, and four figures in
rmour. In the western compartment are chiefly oriental arms and armovr : suit of
hMn-mail (reputed Bajazet, 1401) ; Asiatic iron boot ; Saracenic and Indian armour ;
lemorials from Tippoo SaiVs armour; collection of Chinese armour ; brass gun taken
rom the Chinese in 1842, inscribed, "Bicbaxd: Philipb: kads: this: Pece:
iN : Dki : 1801 ;" arms from Kaffraria ; hempen armour from the South Sean ; New
Zealand implements, and chiefs robe ; rich Indian and Moorish arms and aoooutre-
8 V 2
804 CURIOSITIES OF LONDON.
menu, from the Great Exblbition of 1851 : and a cabinet of oriental anDcor,
weapoui, bone-fnrnitare, Ac, presented by the Hon. East India Compaxij. Here
is the large anchor taken at Camperdown by Admiral Dnncan. In 1854 were add«.d
2000 stands of arms from Bomartand, the first spoils of the Rnsaan war.
Outside the White !tower» on the sonth-east, are : an ancient gnn for atone shot ; tvo
brass gnns» temp. Henry VII. and Henry VIII. ; French, Spanish, and Chinese gims ;
gons from the wreck of the Royal Oeorge; and several mortan^ indading one of IS
inchea, nsed at the siege of Namnr by William IIL
Mr. Hewitt* B work, already mentioned, is by fiir the most aocnrate and iUastratiTe
Quide-book to the Tower Armouries.
Thb Reoaija, OB Cbown Jswels, have been exhibited to the public for a f<?e
nnoe the Restoration of Charles II. They had been previously kept sometimes in the
Tower, in the Treasury of the Temple or other religious house, and in the Treasorj at
Westminster. The Royal Jewels were several times pledged to provide for the exi-
gencies of our monarchs: by Henry III., Edward III., Henry Y^ Henry VL; and
Richard II. offered them to the merchants of London as a guarantee for a loan. The
office of Keeper of the Regalia, conferred by the king's letters patent^ became in the
reigns of the Tudors a post of great emolument and dignity, and '' the Master of the
Jewel-house" took rank as the first Knight Bachelor of England : the office was some-
time held by Cromwell, afterwards Earl of Essex. During the dvil war under Charles L
the Regalia were sold and destroyed.* On the Restoration of Charles 11. new R^alla
were made, for which was paid to the king's goldsmith. Sir Robert Vyner, 21,978ZL 9f. IldL
{Treatury Order, 20th June, 1662.) The emoluments of the Master of the Jewel-
house were now so reduced, that Sir Gilbert Talbot obtained permisaon to sihow the
Reg^ia to strangers for a fee ; which proved so profitable, that Sir Oilbert» upon the
death of his servant who showed the jewels^ was offered 500 £^ld broad-poeoes for the
place. In this reign. May 9, 1671, Colonel Blood made his daring attempt to earrr
off ** the crown, globe, and sceptre." The Regalia were then kept in a strong vaulted
chamber of the Martin Tower, and were shown behind strong iron bars : through
these, in 1815, a woman forced her hands and tore the royal crown to pieces. The
Regalia were next shown at one view by the light of six argand lampi^ with power/ul
reflectors.
In 1842, a new Jewel-house was built in the late Tudor style, south of the Martin
Tower : where the Regalia are shown upon a pyramidal stand, enclosed within plate-
glass; and over the whole is an open iron finme, or cage, of Tudor design, surmounted
by a regal crown of iron.
The MegaUa are X'^St. Sdward's Crown, or the andent Imperial Crown, made
temp. Charles II., to replace that said to have been worn by Edward the Con/Seseor :
and with which the Sovereign is crowned at the altar. This is the crown which Blood
stole : the arches, flowers, and fillets are covered with large multi-coloured jewela ; and
the purple velvet cap is fkoed with ermine.
l4of. Tennant, F.G.S., thus describes her Majesty's State Crown >-
"The Imperial State Crown of Her U^eatj Qaeen Victoria was made by Uessn. Bimdell and Br^fe
In the year 1838, with Jewels token from old Crowns, and others flzmiahed by command of her Haie^j.
It consists of diamonds, pearls, rabies, sapphires, and emeralds, set In silver and gold ; it has a criiin«^a
velvet cap, with ermine Dorder, and is lined with white silk. Its gross weight is 39 on. 6dwtL Troj.
The lower part of the band, above the ermine border, consists of a row of one hnsdred and twenty-n;£«
pearls, and the vipoer part of the band a row of one hnndred and iwdve pearls, between which, in froct
of the Crown, is a large sapphire (partly drilled), purchased for the Grown liy His Muesty King Gecnee
the Fourth. At the oack u a sapphire of smaller sise, and six other sapphires (three on eueh s(k),
between which are eight emeralds. Above and below tta seven sapphires are fooiteen dlarnxods, aod
around the eight emeralds one hnndred and twenty-eight diamonds. Between the emeralds und
sapphires are sixteen trefoil ornaments, oontaining one himdred and sixty diamonds. Above the ha&l
are eight sapphires surmounted by eight diamonds, between which are eight ftstoons consisting of ooa
hundred and forty«eight diamonds. In the front df the Crown, and in the centre of a (fianumd Maltne
cross, is the famous ruby said to haye been given to Bdward Prince of Walea, son of Edward III.,
called the Black Prince, by Bon Pedro» King of Castile, after the battle of Nivlera, near Vittoria, a j>.
1S67. This ruby was worn in the helmet of Henry V . at the battle of Agincoort, jlj». 1415. It is pierced
amto through after the Eastern custom, the upper part of the piercing bdng fiUed up by a small tdbj.
Around this ruby, to form the cross, are seventy-five brilliant dismonas. Three other Maltese croews,
finrming the two sides and back dT the Crown, have emerald centres, and contain respectivdy one
* The State Crown of Charles I., found in the upper Jewel-house^ oontained Tibs. 7o8. ^yoU: ia
one of th»Jlmn'i€4i9 was ** a picture of the T^igin Mary.**
TOWER OF LONDON. 805
landied and thirty-two, one handred and twenty-foor, and one hundred and thirlr brilliant diamonds.
Ketween the four Maltese croeaes are four omaments in the form of the French flear-de-lis, with four
ubics in the centres, and sarronnded by roee diamonds, containing respeotirely eighty-five, eighty-six,
i{?hty-six, and eighty-seven rose diamonds. From the Maltese eroeses issoe four imperial arches com-
K)^ed of oak leaves and acorns ; the leaves containing seven hundred and twen^-elght rose, table, and
TiUiant diamonds; thirty-two pearls forming the acorns, set in cups containing iIAy-four rose diamonds
Ad one table diamond. The total number <» diamonds in the ardies and acorns is one hundred and
i^ht brilliant, one hundred and sixteen table, and five hundred and fifty-nine rose diamonds. From
he upper part of the arches are suspended four large pendant ^pew-tihKped pearls, with rose diamond
a^vs, containing twelve rose diamonds, and stems containing twenty-four very small rose diamonds.
I hove the arch stands the mound, eontaininf in the lower hemisphere three hundred and four brilUanti,
nd in the upper two hundred ana forty-four orilUants ; the sone and arc being composed of thirtyUiree
o9e diamonds. The cross on the summit lias a rose-cut sapphire in the centre, surrounded by four
jTs^ brilliant^ and one hundred and eight smaller brilliants. — Snmmaiy of Jewels comprised in the
'rown : 1 iMse rubv irreirularly polished; 1 large broad-spread sapphire; 16 sapphires; 11 emeraldi)
rubies: 1969 brilliant diamondiii 1273 rose dOuunonds; 147 table diamonds; 4 drop<«haped pearlai
73 pcaris.**
rherp are correct woodcato of the crown, by S. Williams, in Britton*8 Dictumarjf of
irc?iiiecture, and Sharp's Peerage, Haydon, in his Autobiography (1830), Td. ii>
>. 236, has this odd entry as to the crown of Qeorge IV. i—
" The Crown at the Coronatlmi was not bought, but borrowed. Rundell's price was TO.OOOL ; and
^rd Liverpool told tiie King he could not sanction such an expenditure. Bundell charged 70002. for
he loan ; and as some time elapsed before it was decided whether the crown should be bought or not»
Cundell charged 9000^. or 40002. more for the IntervaL'*
The JPrinee of Walet^t Crown, of pnro gold, plun, without jewels : it is placed npon
I velvet cushion, in the House of Lords, before the seat of the Heir Apparent, when
ler Majesty opens or prorogues Parliament; for which occanons it is conveyed with
he imperial crown of the soverdgn from the Tower, by the Keeper of the Jewel-office,
ittended by warders, in a coach. — The Queen Coneorfs Croum, of g^ld, set with
linmonds^ pearls, and other jewels; made for the queen of William llh^The Queen*t
Diadem, or Circlet of Chid, made for the coronation of Maria d'Este, consort of
Fames II., at the cost of 111,000^ {Sandford) : it is set with diamonds, and sur-
nonnted with a string of pearls. — St, Edward^ t Staff, of beaten gold, 4 feet 7 inches
n leng^; surmounted by an orb and cross, and shod with a steel spike; the orb is
aid to contnn a fragment of the true Cross. The staff weighs 9 lbs. — The Boyal
'Sceptre, or Sceptre with the Croee, of gold : the pommel is set with rubies, emeralds,
ind diamonds ; the fleurs-de-lis have been replaceid by the rose, shamrock, and thistlef
n gold ; and the cross is covered with jewels, and has a large centre table-diamond«—
Vhe Rod of Equity, or Sceptre with the Dove, of gold, 8 feet 7 inches long, u set
rith diamonds, Ac., and is surmounted with an orb, banded with rare diamonds^ sup-
)orting a Jerusalem cross, on which is a gold dove with expanded wings. — The Queen's
Sceptre and Cross, ornamented with lurge diamonds; made for the coronation of
tfary, Queen of William III.— j^b Queen's Ivory Sceptre, made for Maria d'Este,
nounted in £^ld, and bearing a gulden cross, and a dove of white onyx : it is some-
imes miscalled Queen Anne Boleyn's.— ^ii ancient Sceptre, found behind the wains-
oting of the old Jewel-office in 1814 : it is set with jewels, and is supposed to have
>oloi^;ed to Mary, Queen of William 1 11^ — The Orb, of gold, 6 inches in diameter;
he bands aro set with precious stones and roses of diamonds^ and edged with pearls i
i very large amethyst supports the gold cross, set with diamonds, &c — The Queen's
7rb, resembling the former, but of smaller dimensions.— 2*A« Sword of Mercy, or
?urtana, of steel, but pointless ; ornamented with gold.— 2!^ Swords of Justice,
Ecclesiastical and TemporaL—The ArmUles, or Coronation Bracelets, of gold, chased
vith the rose, fleur-de-lis, and harp, and edged with pearls. — The Royal Spurs, of
rurionsly wrought gold : they aro used at the coronation of king or queen. — The
4.mpulla, of puro gold, in the form of an eagle ; is used at coronattons for the holy oil*
vlilch is pourod from the beak into the Chid Anointing Spoon, supposed to be the
mly relic of the ancient Regalia; its date is about the 12th century. The Ampulla is
aid to have been brought from Sens Abbey, in France, by Thomas \ Beckett TAe
Gold Saltcellar of State, set with jewels, and chased witli grotesque figures, is in the
brm of a round castle, and has been miscalled *'a Model of the White TOwer :" it hoi
i central turret, and four at the angles, the tops of which aro removed for the salt;
iTOund the base are Cfirious figures. It was presented to the crown by the Gty of
Rxcter, and was last used at the coronation banquet of Qeorge IV. — The Raptimal
806 CURIOSITIES OF LONDON.
F<mi, iilTer-gilt» elaborately chaaed, and formerly used at the chzisteniiig of the BoysI
Family, bnt nipeneded by a new font of pictoresqae design. A large Silver Wime
Fountain^ presented by the Corporation <^ Plymouth to Charles IL; IS GoUem
SaUcellain, chased ; two masuTe gold " Coronation Tankarda f the Banqneting IMsh,
Qold Spoons, and other Coronation Plate. Also^ a Seirioe of Sacramental Plate, one
dish bearing a fine alto relievo of the lAst Supper; nsed at Coronationay and in the
chapel of St. Peter in the Tower.
Admission daily (Sundays excepted), to the Armouries, 6d. eadi person; and to see
the Meffolia, 6d. each ; in parties of twelve, conducted by a warder, 9¥erj half-boor,
from 12 to 4 o'clock indusiTe.
TOWEB EOTAL,
A SHORT street or lane between St. Antholin's Church, Watling-street, and the
south end of St. Thomas Apostle, was removed in 1853-4^ in fonnxng Kew
Cannon-street West. It occupied the mte of a bnilding stated by Stow to have
anciently belonged to the kings of England, as early as Stephen ; bat it was sob-
sequently discaistled, and held as a tenement by one Simon of Beauvus^ aurgeuu to
Edward I. Mr. Hudson Turner states it to be invariably called in early records
la Eeal, la Biole, or la RyU Qfr Byole, but not a tower; and he coold not find it
occupied by royalty until Edward III., in 1331, granted it to his queen Pbilippa as a
depository for her wardrobe; by whom la Eeal was externally repaired, if not rebuilt.
In 1370, Edward bestowed it upon the canons of St. Stephoi's, Westminster ; but it
reverted to the Crown, and was called "the Queen's Wardrobe" in the reign of
Richard II. It was a place of strength ; and the king's mother fled here for shelter
when Wat Tyler had seized the Tower of London* Leon III., King of Armenia, when
driven from his kingdom by the Turks, was lodged and entertained in Tower Boyal by
Richard II., in 1386. It was granted by Richard III. to the fint Duke of Norfolk of
the Howard £unily, as entered in that king's ledger-book. In Stew's time^ Tower
Royal had become stabling for the king's horsei^ and was let in tenements : the whole
was destroyed in the Great Fire of 1666. In removing the modem hooses opon the
nte, in 1852, were found ^the remains of a Roman viUa: the earth waa intenpexsed
with horns, bones, teeth of goats and oxen ; tusks of boars ; fragments of flanged taks^
scored flue-tiles, amphorae, mortaria, urns, glass vessels, and Samian pottery. Some of
these relics are engraved in the lUmetrated London News, No. 554.
TREASUETAND OTEEE GOVERNMENT OFFICES.
ON the west side of Whitehall are the Government Offices : the Adhxbaktt {me
p. 2) ; HossB GuABDfl (p. 434). In 1724, 600 pUmks of mahogany were broo^t
ttosa Jamaica for the inner doors and tables of the Admiralty ; and, judging by the way
in which the wood is mentioned in the public papers, it was evidently for fitm wdl
known.
The TBBABTmT occupies a portion of the nte of Whitehall Palace. To make way for
the north wing, the last portion of old York House was taken down in 1846 : it had
been refronted, but the Tudor doorway was ancient. The principal Treasury building,
however, faces the parade-ground, St. James's Park : it was bidlt by Kent, in 1733,
and consists of three stories, Tuscan, Doric, and Ionic. The Whitehall front conaist.s of
the Treasury, Board of Trade, and Privy Council Offices; designed by Barry, RJL,
in 1846-8, partly in place of Sir John Soane's fo^ade (the centre and south wing),
decorated with three-quarter columns from those of the Campo Vacdno at Rome.
Soane's exterior, exposed to the criticism of every passenger, was much censured ;
** whilst the interior, in which the skill and taste of the architect are most manifest, and
particularly the Council Chamber, is but little seen, and known only to a few persons."
(Britton^ Barry's design consists of a long series of attached Corinthian columns on
rusticated piers, and carrying a highly -enriched entablature and frieze ; the attics have
carved drops of fruit and flowers^ and the balustrade carries urn-shaped vases : the
TBEA8UBY AND OTHER GOVERNMENT OFFICES. 807
hole fsu^de is 296 feet long. The Coandl Office oocopies the site of the old Tennis-
>art of the Pklsoe.— iSse the print {temp. Charles II.) in Pennant's London, 6th edit.
At the Cockpit died General Monk, Duke of Alhemarlo, 4|h Jan. 1670; and in the
one month his dachess. Nan Clarges. Qaeen Anne, when Princess of Denmark, fled
own the hack stairs, in 1688^ to join her father's enemies, Lord Dorset and Bishop
'onipton riding on mch side of the hackney>coach as an escort. Hatton, in 1708, de-
aribcs the Treasury Office kept at the Cockpit, '* where the Lord High Treasurer sits
a receive petitions, and give orders, warrants, &c" Here, March 8, 1711, Gmscard
ttempted to stab with a penknife Harley, Earl of Oxford, bat ¥ras strack down by
he swords of Lord Pbalet and Mr. St. John. The Cockpit itself oocaped nearly the
ite of the present Board of Trade Office, uid it existed early in the present centory i
he King's speech was read " at the Cockpit" on the day before it was delivered at
he opening of the Session of Parliament; and the discontinuance of this practice
ras much complained of by the Opposition. The term *' Given at the Cockpit at
Vestminster" was in use within the writer's recollection. The Lord High Treasurer
ormerly carried a staff of office (see the portrait of the great Lord Burghley) ; and
le sat in a needlework chair, which is preserved at the Office of the Comptroller of the
Exchequer, Whitehall-yard. ** The soverdgn occasionally prended at the Board of
Trensury until the accession of George III.; and the royal throne still remains at the
lead of the table." (Notet hy F. 8. Thomas, Record Office.) The Board of Treasury
las long ceased to manage the revenue. An interesting series of Treasury Minutes^
rom 1667 to 1884, is appended to the " Seventh Report of the Deputy-Keeper of the
PubUc Records."
Some cmriooi relics of the aadmt Boysl Tnmurj it WestmiBiter srs pissai'tcd. Among these are
i tkipp^l, or turned box, of the time of Edward IlL, and a smaller hamper, or hamaptr ^tf^iKnih of
;be ■uoeeeding refgn. Both were ased for the preeenratioii of title-deeds of the Grown. The slappets
itout leather, bound with email bars of Iron ;' the dst is alio iron-boond. The Boyal plate end Jewels
were nanally deposited In the fnrmcr. In the reicn of Edward L the TieasQiy was plondered of these
raloablei^ In addition to 100,000<L, upwards of IflMfiOOL of oar present moo^y.
N'ext is Dowmng-etreet, ** between Eing-street £. and no thorow ikir West." (Ratton)^
It was named from Sir George DoMming, Bart., a political " aider with all times and
changei^" who^ after serving Cromwell, became Secretary to the Treasury under
Charles II., 1667. At the Revolution, the property, then bek>nging to Lee, Lord
Lichfield, was forfated to the Crown. The lai^est house was, Ump. George I., the
office of the Hanoverian minister, Baron Bothmar, at whose death the mansion was
given by the King to Sir Robert Walpole, who^ in 1735, would only accept it for his
office of first Lord of the Treasury, to which post he got it annexed for ever." {Mdeg
IfalpoUanm,) It has aooorduagly since been the offidal rendence of successive prime
ministers: here Lady Hester Stanhope received Mr. Pitt's guests : but the rooms are
ill adapted for State aswmblies. The adjoining house was purchased within the
present century, for the Foreign Office^ Colonial Office, and Office of the Chancellor of
the Exchequer. To this eul^^sac a street of smaller houses waa added : the south side
was taken down in 1828 : at the comer next King-street was the noted Cat and
BagpiptM, used as a chop-house in early life by George Rose» subsequently Secretary
of the Treasury, and the originator of Sarings-banks. — See " The Last Daya oif
Downing-streetk" in WaUre and Talks about London, 186S.
In one oftbe above meneimii^ hi 1768, died Aubrey de Yen, last Earl of Ozlbrd. In theetreet
llTed, in 17U^ John Bojle, ISarl of Orrery, the IHend of Swift, and oontribator to The World and
CoMMUMar. Here resided Boewell, the mognmher of Johnson ; and Lord Sheffield, the Mend of
Gibbon, the historian. In the Colonial Office; mo. U in the street In a snudl waiting-room on the
right bend as you entered, the Doke of Welllnirton—then Sir Artaur Welleeley— and Lord Nelson,
both waiting to tee the Secretary of States met— the only time In their lives. The Doke knew Nelson
from his pictures; Lord Nelson did not know the Dnke, bat was so stmek with his oonveriatlon, that
he ttept out of the room to Inqolia who ha was. Mr. Cunningham relates this meeting, which haa
been psinted and engraved.
The new Qovemment OiBees, oommenoed in 1868, are in course of erectkm*
and are to include the Foreign Office, the India Office, the Colonial Office, and the
Navy Office; the whole to lorm a large quadrangle, fronting St. James'-park, and
PkrUament^treet. The azcfaiteetare will be of Italianiied oharacteri the various
803 CUBI08ITIE8 OF LOIWOK
fronts will display a large amonnt of characfceristac sculpture. The India Office w »
far completed as to have been the site of a magnificent fdte given to tiie Saltan of
Turkey, in the summer of 1867.
TRimTT MOUSE,
TRTNITY-SQUARE, on the north ride of Tower Hill, was bmlt by Sunnel Wyatt,
179S~5, for the ancient guild founded by Sir Thomas Spert^ coQunander of the
great ship Harry Oraee de Dieu, and Comptroller of the Navy to King^ Henry VIIU
and incorporated 1515. It was then a guild or fraternity of mariners of England (or
the encouragement of the sdenoe of Navigation ; and was first empowered to build
lighthouses and erect beacons by an Act passed in the reign of Queen Elizabeth.
Before the charter of Henry VIII. the society was of a purely monastic character, asid
had been established for kindred but comparatively limited purposes: The office of
the MAster of the Corporation at various times has been held by princes and statesmen.
From 1816, when Lord Liverpool occupied the office of Master, it was held in soo-
oewion by the Marquis Camden, the Duke of Clarence, afterwards WiUiamlV.;
Marquis Camden again, the Duke of Wellington, the Prince Consort^ and Visooofit
Palmerston ; the present Master, the Duke of Edinburgh — a period of half a centaiT.
Hie Corporation has in charge the lighthouses and sea-marks, and the lioenring of
pilots, tonnage, ballastage, beaconage, &c^ prodndng about 800,000^ a year ; the neb
revenue, about one>fourth, is principally expended in muntaimng poor disabled seamea
and their widows and orphans, by pensions, in the Corporation hospitals at Deptford-
Strond ; which the Master, Deputy-Master, and Brethren virit in their state-yacht, in
grand processbn, on Trinity Monday. A state banquet has been given annually anee
ib» Restoration, when there is a fine display of the ancient plate, some more tban 250
years old. The Trinity House is of the Ionic order; upon its principal front sre
sculptured the arms of the Corporation, medallions of George III. and Queen
Charlotte; genii with nautical instruments; the four prinripal lighthouses on the
coast, &c. The interior has busts of Vincent, Nelson, Howe, and Duncan ; W. Htt
and Capt. J. Cotton, by Chantrey; George III., by Turnerelli, &c The Court-room
is decorated with impersonations of the Thames, Medway, Severn, and Hnmber ; sod
among the pictures b a large painting, 20 feet long, by Gainsborough, of the Elder
Brethren of the Trinity House. In the Board-room are portraits of James I. and II.,
Elizabeth, Anne of Denmark, Earl Craven, Sir Frauds Drake^ Sir J. Leak^ and
General Monk ; King William IV., the Prince Consort, and the Duke of WellingtoD,
three of the past Masters; and George III., Queen Charlotte, and Queen Adelaide.
The Museum is noticed at p. 605. The arms of the Corporation are, a cross bettreen
ibur ships under sail.
The present is the third House built for the Corporation : the first was destroyed ia
the Great Fire of 1666. Pepys records : " Sept. ^ I after supper walked in the dark
down to Tower-street, and there saw it all on fire ; at the Trinity House on that side,
and the Dolphin Tavern on this side." The second House was erected in Water-lane
in 1671, and is described by Hatton as " a stately building of brick and stone, and
adorned with ten oustos."
TTBXmir AND « TFBURN TREE/'
TTBURN was andently a manor and village west of London, on the Tjhomm «
brook, subsequently the WcBihoum, the western boundary of the district, noir
incorporated in the parish of Paddington. This stream (within memory a favoarite
resort of anglers) is shown descending from the high ground about Hampstead in the
maps by Sazton, 1579; Speede, 1610; Seller, 1733; in Morden's and Seales's, and in
Rocque's surveys. Upon its bank was the place of execution for criminals convicted
in London and Middlesex as early as 1196, when William I^tzosbert, or Longbeard,
was executed at Tyburn, as we learn from Boger de Wendover. In 1330, Koger de
Mortimer was '* drawn and hanged" at " the Elms," described by Holinshed as "noff*
TYBUEN AND '* TYBXTEN TBEE.** 809
ribome;" and Elms-lane, Bayswater, is pointed oat to this day wbere the fatal elm
^eWf and the gentle llborne ran :
** Then fttal carts through Holborn seldom went»
And Tyburn with few pilgrims was oontent."— Oldham's SaHrt, 1688.
Elms-lane is the first opening on the right hand after getting into the Uxbridge-road ttom the
Irand-Jnnction-road, opposite the head or the Serpentine; the Serpentine itself being formed in the
>ed of the ancient stream, first ealled Tyboum, then Weetboam, then Banelagh Sewer; while the
tream which crossed Oxford-street, west of Stratford-place, first bore the name of Eyeboum, then
rjboom, then King's Scholars' Pond.— Sobins's Haddington, 1853, p. S.
The gallows, " Tybnrn-tree/' was a triangle npon three legs, and is so described
n the 16tb and 17 th centuries. If Mr. Robins's location of the gibbet be correct, it
?7as snbseqaently changed ; for in the lease of the house No. 49, Connaught-square
[granted by the Bishop of London), the gallows is stated to hare stood npon that spot.
In 1811, Dr. Lewis, of Half Moon-street, I^ocadllly, waa about to erect somehousee in Connaught-
>lace (Nos. 6 to 12, 1 think), and daring the excavation for foundaticms a qoantitT of human bones waa
oand, with parts of wearing apparel attached thereto. A good many of the bones, say a cart-load,
Mrere taken away by order of Dr. Lewis, and buried in a pit dug for the purpose In Connaoght-mews.—
OommmmeatioH, bg Mr, ChatU* Lme, to tko JisMf, Hay 16, 1860.
Smith (SisL 8t, Marjf'le-Bone) states the gallows to hare been for many years a
itanding fiztore on a small eminence at the comer of the £dgrware>road, near the turn-
pike, on Uie identical spot where a tool-house was subsequently erected by the Uxbridge-
road Trust. Beneath this place lie the bones of Bradshaw, Ireton, and other regiddes,
pirhich were taken from their graves after the Restoration, and are stated to have been
buried under the gallows.
On May 7, 1800, in the course of some excavation connected with the repair of a pipe in the road-
way, close to the foot pavement lUong the garden of Arklow House, the residence of Mr. A. J. B.
Beresford Hope, at the extreme south-west angle of the Bdgeware-road, the workmen came upon
numerous human bones, obviously the remains of the unhappy persons buried under the gaUows.— Orai-
munieaUd hg Mr, Sope to tkt Timu, May 9, 1860.
The gallows subsequently conasted of two uprights and a cross-beam, erected on the
mormng of execution across the roadway, oppotdte the house at the comer of
Cpper Bryanston-street and the Edgware-road, wherein the gibbet was deposited
afWr being used ; and this house had curious iron balconies to the windows of the
first and second floors, where the sheriffs attended the executions. After the place
of execution was changed to Newgate in 1783, the gallows was bought by a carpenter^
ind made into stands for beer-butts in the cellars of the Carpenter^ Anm public-house,
hard by. Formerly, when a person prosecuted for any offence, and the prisoner was
executed at Tyburn, the prosecutor was presented with a ticket which exempted him
from serving either on juries or any parochial business ; by virtue of the Act 10 and 11
Win. III. This Act was repealed by 58 Geo. III. Mr. George PhUlips, of Charlotte-
itreet, Bloomsbury, was the kst individual who received the Tyburn ticket, for a
burglary committed by two housebreakers on his premises. In the autumn of 185^
bowever, Mr. Pratt, armourer, of Bond-street, claimed and obtained exemption from
serving on an Old Bailey jury by reason of his possession of a Tyburn ticket ; the
judge probably not remembering the Act which repealed the privileges of the holders
sf Tyburn tickets.
Around the gibbet ("the ihtal retreat for the nnfortunate brave") were erected
t>pen galleries like a race-course stand, wherein seats were let to spectators at
executions: the key of one of them was kept by Mammy Douglas, " the Tybnm pew-
opener." In 1758, when Dr. Henesey was to have been executed for treason, the
prices of seats rose to 2t. and 2f . 6d. ; but the doctor bdng '< most provokingly re-
prieved," a riot ensued, and most of the seats were destroyed. The criminals were
conveyed thither from Newgate :
" thief and parson in a lybum cart.**— Ptv/s^m if Drgdtn, 1683.
The oldest existing representation of the Tyburn gallows is in a German print in
the Crowls Pennant, in the British Museum; wherein Henrietta-Maria, queen of
Charles I., is kneeling in penance beneath the triple tree: it is moonlight; the
confessor is seated in the royid coach, drawn by six horses; and at the ooach-door is a
lervant bearing a torch. The "pore queene," it is stated, walked afoot (some say
810 0UBI08ITIE8 OF LONDON.
SuT
barefoot) from St. James's to Tyburn* to do homage to the aaixitahip of some reecs
executed papists : bat this is denied by the Marshal de Bassompierre; the above pm:
is of kter date than 1628^ the year of the reputed pOgrimage, and its anthentldtr ii
disbeUered.
MtmonbU AwsmMom ai Mem.— 1890 (4th Edw. HL), Soger de Mortimer, Ibr treawa: n^
(Itth Bkhsrd II.). Judge Tieriliaa ind Sir N. Brembre, treason; 1400 O^^ Hen. TIL), ^J^
Wvbeck wM execrated here tor plotting his eMspe from the Tower; 1694 (24th Hen. YUL), the H\7
Meld of Kent and her oonMeratee ; l£w. Che laat Prior of the Carthosian Monastery (Charter Ho- ,
ms, Boberfc Southwell, Elizabethan ascied poet ; 1616. Mrs. Tomer, hanged in syellow-etarebed v£. Is
the polaoning of Sir Thomas Overbury; leas, John Felton, aaaaaain of YillierB, Duke of Bockinet^^:
1660-1 (Jan. 90), the first annirersarj of the ezecutian of Charles L after the Beafeontion : Ut^ .»
interred bodies of OtiTer Cromwell, Ireton. and Bradshaw hung in their ahroods and eenektha as c^
angle of l>bam gallows till sunset, when thqr were taken down and beheaded, and the bo&s bjrA
under the gallows, the heads being set on Westminster Hall ; 1660-68, five persons who had sLrned the
death-wanant of Charies I.; 1684, Sir Thomas Armstrong (Bye Eooae Plot); 1706, John SadiX a
burglar, hsTtng hung abore a quarter of an hour, when a repnere arrlTed, he was cut down, and l^-^ '^
let Uood, eame to himself (Satttm, 1708). 17H Jsck Sheppard, hoosehreaker : 1725^ Jonathan WJc,
tiiief and thief-taker; 1786, Catherine Hajes, fbr the murder of her husband : she was burnt alJ^c, f^^
instead of the eart : the executioners fou^t for the rope, and the mob tore Uie bla» doth from tbe
seaflTold as relies; the landau stood in a coach-hoose at Acton untH it fell to pieces; and the bill &r t^
silken rope hss bssn preserved. 1767, Mrs. Brownrim, for murder ; 1774 John Bans (81x1600-91110?^
Jack), highwayman; 1776, the two Perreans, for forgery; 1777, Bet. Dr. Dodd, fbrj^err; 1779, Bci.
James Hackman, assassination of Miss Beay : he was taken from Newgate in a moummg^coseh : 17^
Byland, the engraTer, fbr forgery ; 1783, John Austin, the last person eseouted at T^rbvm.
The road between St. Giles's Pound and Tyburn gallows waa first called Tylitn-
road, now Oxford • street ; the lane leading from which to Piccadilly was called
Tj^hum-lane, now Park'lane. The orifinal turnpike-gate stood doee to St. Giles's
Pound; then at Tybom, removed in 1825; then at Winchester-row; next at Pine-
apple-plaoe ; and next at Kilbum. Strange have been the mutations in which the
rural Tyboom "welled forth away" through pleaaant fields to the Town, there
became linked with the crimes of centuries, and lost in a murky aewer ; but left iu
name to T^humia, the newly-built dty of palaces north-west of Hyde Purk. {See
PADDnrGTON, p. 663.)
In 1785, William Capon made a sketch of Tyburn gallows; and at the fisot of a
drawing made by him from this sketch, in 1818, are the following notes :
" View looking across Hyde Park, taken IVom a one-pair-of-etiurs window at the last houe st xhs
end of Upper Seymour-street, Edgware-road, fhcing where Trbum fbrmerly was. The eastera esd
of Connanght-place is now built on the Terr plot of ground, then occupied oy a cow-lair, and d^
and cinder heaps. The shadow on the riffht of the Edgware-road is produced by one of the three
galleries which were then standing, firom which people used to see crixninals ezeoated. Viuj vat
standing in 1785, at which time the original sketch was made from which tiie picture Is dane."
A portion of T)*bum gate exists :
* The arch and door, forming the centre portion of the gate, which was remored about 1S25. villi
the old clock, are still standing tA the entrance to a wooden cowshed, on the premises of Mr. Baker, s
fluntner at Cricklewood, who bought them at the time when the gate was taken down." — C^giemtm ^
aoekt and WatOm, p. 168. 1866.
UNIVEnSITT OF LONDON, THE,
SOMERSET HOUSE, was instituted Nov. 28, 1836, for "* rendering acadonicil
honours accessible, without distinction, to erery dass and every denominalaaa."
The Univer&ty consists of a chancellor, vice-chancellor, and senate ; and gradustei. li
is solely an examining body, and confers degrees on the graduates of University
College and King's College, London ; and the colleges not belonging to the other
universities ; besides all the medical schools in the empire, and most of the ooUeg» of
the Roman Catholics, Baptists, Independents, and Wesleyans. The degrees are coiB-
ferred, and the honours bestowed, in public ; and the senate first met for this purpose
on May 1, 1850, in the large hall of King^s College, Somerset House; the Esri of
Burlington, Chancellor of the University, presiding. A new edifice wa% in 1^,
oommenoed building for the Univernty In tho rear of Burlington House.
VAUXSALL GARDENS. 81t
VAUXRAZL GARDENS,
jlOB liearly two oentaries a place of public amusement, wbb named from its nte in tlie
manor of " La Sale Fankes," mentioned in the charter of Isabella de Fortibus,
ountesa of Aumale and Devon, and Lady of the Isle of Wight, dated in 1298, by
hich she sold her poasessions to King Edward I. In the Testa de Nevill we readr
nder Surrey : " Baldwin, son and heir of the Earl of the Isle, is in the custody of
ulke de Breaut^; he should be in the ward of the lord the king; also his lands in
le hundred of Brixton, and they are worth 18^. per annum." Fulke de Breaut^ tho
slebrated meroenaxy follower of King John, married Margaret, Earl Baldwin's
lother, and thus obtained the wardship of her son. He appears to have built a hall,
r mansion-liouse, in the manor of South Lambeth, during Us tenure of it; and from
bis time it was odled indifferently Faukesball, or Sooth Lambeth, and is so termed
1 the tenth year of Edward 1. The capital messuage, with its garden, named
Faukeshall," was valued in the twentieth of the same reign at 2«. yearly. We haT»
herefore satis&ctory evidence that Yauxhall owes its origin and name to an obscure
forman adventurer, who became suddenly rich during the turbulent rdgn of John,
nd was ignominiously driven from the country in the minority of Henry III.
ArchiBoloffieal Journal, vol. iv.) The land on which Fulke ered»d his hall now
«long8 to Canterbury Cathedral. The manor of FulkeshaU fell, by attainder, to the
hrown. It was succesrively held by the Despenoers and the Damories ; but the latter
xchanged it with Edward III. for an estate in Suffolk ; and the manor was conferred
in Edward the Black Prince, who pioasly left it to the Church of Canterbury ; and
he bequest vras spared by Henry YIII. to the Dean and Chapter.
The old manoT-hoase bad its name of Faokefhall cbaiured to Copped, or Copt Hall. Here Ladr
mibella Stuart was held captiTe. under the goardianship of Sir Thomas Barry. The tradition that it
iver belanaed to Goido or (Soy Fawkei only rests upon the ooincidenoe of names. The estate in the
nanors of JLambeth and Kenuhigton belonged to a fsmilj named f aacke, or Yaox, in the reigns of
Slizabeth and James L; and. in 1616» Jaoe Yaox, widow, held property of that desoription here, and
aae manalon-hoose eonneeted with it. Mr. Nichols, fn his Hutoif qf Zambeth Famh, mistakenly
affirms that Ouy Vanx had a mansion here, and that it was named Arom him Yauxhall: ne then oon-
ectores that Jane Yanz was the relict of the infkmons Qny, who was execnted the Slst of January,
[906 ; but, as Mr. Brsy, who was a lawyer as well as the coon^ historian, remarks, Guy Yanx could not
bave been the owner of the coprbold belonging to Jane Yaox in 1616 ; for if she had been his widow, it
would have been forfeited as the estate of a traitor. Besides, his father's name was Fawkes, and had
loug spent his estate ; and Jane was the widow of a much better man— John Yanz, an honest Tintner of
Loudon, who bequeathed property for the erection of seven almshouses in this parish. Nerertheles^
[he houae in which the ooosptrators stored their powder and other combustibles, during the digging of
the mine, was eertainly at Lambeth, and near the riTer-dde; but that house did not belong to an? one
i>f them, it being merely hired fbr the purpose in the summer of 1604. Neither history nor tradition
^ recorded the exact site of the ooospirators' storehouse; but we have the following evidence of its
destruction by fire. In an annlTersary sermon, preached at Lambeth Church by Dr. FeaUey, on
iast yeare, the House where Catesby plotted this treason in Lambeth was casually burnt downs to the
pound hj powder.**— Featley's Oaou MgtHea, p. 8M ; 1686.
VauxhaU Oardene were first laid oat about 1661. Evelyn records : " 2 July, 1661»
I went to see the New Spring Qardene* at Lambeth, a pretty contrived plantation ;**
and Balthasar Monoonys, early in the reign of Charles II., describes the gardens well
frequented in 1668.
Sir Samuel Morland "built a fine room at VaMX-*4dl anno 1667, the inside sll of looking-glass, and
fountains very pleasant to behold, which is much visited by strangers ; it stands in the middle of the
Garden." (Mr. Bray thought this room to have been erected by Morland for the eutertainmoot of
Charles IL when he visited this place with his ladies.) '* Without the New Spring Garden is the
remainder of a kind of hom-wor^ belonging to the lines of commouication made about 1643-4."
(Aubrey's Smreg, vol. L pp. 12, 18.)
Morland's room is believed to have stood where the orchestra was after-
wards boilt ; and in 1794 a leaden pump was removed bearing Sir Samuel's
ouurk as annexed :
A large mound of earth, said to have been thrown up for defence, remained to our
time near the firework-shed. North of the Gardens b believed to have stood a Roman
* To distinguish It from Spring Garden, Charing Cross.
812 CUBI08ITUE8 OF LONDON.
fort or cnmp ; and Roman pottery has been fonnd here. Cannte's Trench has been
traoed through the Gardens to its influx into the Thames (MaUlamd).
In a plan dited 1681 the place is named Spxing Gkrden, and " marked as pfaHit£d
with trees and laid out in walks.*' Pepys's Diary has entries in 1665-8 of hb Tiszts
to Fos-kaU and the Spring Garden ; and of '* the humours of the dtizena, pfolliiig of
cherries, and God knows wliat ;" " to hear the nightingale and the biiilfl, and here
fiddlers, and there a harp, and here a Jew's trump; and here laughing, and there £be
people walking, is mighty diverting." Pepys b^ tells of "supper in an arbour/
ladies walking *' with their masks on," &c.; and —
" JoIt 27, 1668. So orer the water, with my wife aud Deb, tnd Veroer, to Spring Garden, and ttee
cat and walked; and obeenred how rade some of the young (r>Uaate of the town are become; to go i^a
people'* arboore where there are not men, and almost force the women, which troubled ooe to see the
confidence of the vice of the age ; and eo we away by water with mach ploasore home.**
Tom Brown» a dozen years later, speaks of the close walks and little wSdemeasei^
which " are ao intricate that the most experienced mothers have often lost themadres
in looking for their daughters."
Wycherley refers to a cheesecake and a syllabub at New Spring Qurdat, And ia
the Spectator, No. 383 (May 20, 1712), Addison describes his gtnng with Sir Roger
de Coverley on the water from the Temple Stairs to Spring Garden, ** which is
ezquimtely pleasant at this time of year :" a mask tapped Sir Roger upon the shoaldfr
and invited him to drink a bottle of mead with her. The usual supper of that perbd
was " a glass of Burton ale, and a slice of hung beef." Cheesecakes and sylhibohs
were the earlier fare in Wycherley's day ; and punch and ham were not jet heard at
In 1728, Spring Gardens were leased by Elizabeth Masters, for 30 years, to
Jonathan Tyers, of Denbles, Surrey, at the yearly rent of 260I. Tyea^s lease
enumerates the Dark Room, Ham Room, Milk-house, Pantry-room ; and among the
arbouTB, covered and paved with tiles, are the names of Checker^ Kng's Head,
Dragon, Oak, Royal Arbour, York, Queen's Head, Royal George, Ship, Globe, FhcBoix,
Swan, Eagle, and the Barge. The hatch at the Water-gate was of T^ers's time.
The Gardens were opened by Tyers, June 7, 1732, with a BUiotio ai Jretco,
Frederick, Prince of Wales, was present, and the company wore masks, dominoes, and
lawyers' gowns. The admission was one guinea : 400 penons were present ; and thoe
were 100 Foot-Guards posted round the Grardens to keep order. The admiasian-ti^ct
was designed by the younger Laguerre.
The author of A Ibuch at the Times, or a Trip to VauxkaU, 1737,
" Sail'd trimnphant on the liquid war.
To heur the fiddlers of Spring Qarden plaj."
Tyers set up an organ in the orchestra ; and in the Garden, in 1738, a fine state
of Handel, as Orpheus playing a lyre, by Roubiliac, his first work in England.*
Here was also a statue of Milton, by Roubiliac, cast in lead, and painted stone-ookar.
The season of 1739 was for three months, and the admission only by silver tickets, at
2&9. each, to admit two persons. These silver tickets were struck after designs by
Hogarth : the obverse bore the number, name of the holder, and date; and the
reverse a figure of Euterpe, Erato, or Thalia.
Hogarth, who was then lodging in Lambeth-terrace,t suggested to 'Tyera the ea*
belUshment of the Gardens with paintings ; in acknowledgment of whic^ T^ers pre-
sented Hogarth with a €h>ld Ticket of perpetual admisnon : it bears on its obvene,
** Hogarth," and beneath it, " In perpetuam beneficii tnemoriam ;" on the xererse are
two figfurcs surrounded with the motto, " Virtue volmptas feUcee ima." This ticket
(for the admission of six persons or " one coach") was last used in the season of 1836 ;
it was purchased for 20Z. by Mr. Fredisrick Gye. Hogarth designed for the pavilion
in the Gardens the Four Parts of the Day, which Hayman copied; bendes other
pictures. In 1746, Tyers added vocal to his instrumentid music, and Dr. Ame com-
posed ballads, duets, &c ; Mrs. Ame, Lowe^ Beard, and the dder Beinhold* were
singers.
* This statoe was sold, in 1854. to the Sacred Harmonle Society tar WO^ and Is now Sa fbekr eeat-
mittee-room at Exeter Hall, Strand.
t The hoose which Hogarth oocapied ie ttUl shown; and a vine is pointed oat whi^ ha plaated.—
Allan Cnnnlnghsm, Xw« qfSriHah PainUn, ^t^ 1829.
VAUXHALL GARDENS. 813
Horace Walpole, in Jone, 1750, went with a large party to the Qardens ; and their
visit is admirably described in one of Walpole's Lettert,
Fielding, in his Amelia, 1751, describes the Yauxball of that date: "the coaches
being oome to the water-side, they all alighted, and getting into one boat, proceeded to
VanzhalL The extreme beanty and elegance of the place is well known to almost
every one of my readers ; and happy is it for me that it is so^ unce to give an adequate
idea of it would exceed my power of description."
In England's Gazeiteer^ 1751, the entertainmcDts are described as "the sweet song
of nambers of nightingales, in concert with the best band of munck in England.
Here are 6ne pavilions, shady groves, and most delightful walks illuminated with
above 1000 lamps."
In 1751, the walks are described as illuminated with above 1000 lamps ; but the
print of this date shows glass vase-sliaped lamps on posts, and suspended in the
mosic-house, though in no great profusion. The walks are wide and open; the
straggling groups of company are in happy ease : the ladies in their hoops, sacques,
and caps, as they appeared in their own drawing- rooms; and the gentlemen in their
grotesque hats, and wearing swords and bags.
" At Vaoxhsll the artificial mini are repaired : the cascade is made to spoat with tevenl additional
stTeama of block-tin; and they hsTC touched up fdl the pictures which were damaged lust season by the
Angering of those carious connoisseurs who could not be satisfied without feeling whether the figures
were alive."— Ommomsmt, May 15, 1766.
Then follows tlie story of a parsimonious old citizen going there with his wife and
daughters, and grumbling at the deamoss of the provisions and the wafer-like
thinnest of the slices of ham. At every mouthful the old fellow exclaims : ** There
goes twopence ! there goes threepence ! there goes a groat !" Then there is the old
joke of the wafery slices of ham, and the expert carver who undertook to cover the
Gardens— eleven acre»— wit-h slices from one ham !
It is curious to find Sir John Fielding commending the Garden of 1757 for '* its
elegant eatables and drinkables, in which particular Yauxball differs widely from the
prudent and abstemious Ranelagh, where one is confined to tea and coffee."
In 1752^ Tyers purchased a mdety of the estate for 3800/. ; and a few years after-
wardis as Lysons informs us from the records in the Duchy of Cornwall Office, " he
bought the remainder," — ^probably at the expiration of his original lease, in 1758.
Goldsmith thus describes the Yauxball of about 1760 : —
" The lights srerywhere glimmering through searoely moving trees ; the Aill-bodled concert borttfaig
on the stillness of night ; the natural concert of the birds In the more retired part of the grore, Tidng
with that which was formed by art ; the company gailr dressed, looking satisfied ; and the tables spread
with Tarioas delioacles»'— all conspired to fill my imagination with the rislonazy hap^ness of the Arabian
lawglTer, and lifted me into an ecstasT of admiration. ' Head of Confticius,' cried I to my Mend, ' this
is £te I This onites rural beauty with courtly magnificence.'"— (OMm» of tk» World. Letter IxiL)
" The last gaj picture in Qoldsmiih's life is of himself and Sir Joshua (Reynolds) at Vaoxnall. And not
the least memorable figures in that sauntering crowd.— though it numbered princes and ambassadors
then ; and on its tide and torrent of fiishion fioated all the beauty of the time : and through its lighted
aTcnoes of trees glided cabinet ministers and their daughters, royal dukes and thdr wItcs, agreeable
Toong ladles and gentlemen of eighty-two/ and all the red-heeled macaronies,— were those of the
PMaident and the Ancient Uistoiy nofessor of the Boyal Academy.**— Fotster's QoUntUk, p. 676.
MiM Bumey also lays scenes of her Svelina and Cecilia in Yauxhall Gardens.
Tyers subsequently bought the property : he died in 1767 : ''so great was the delight
he took in this place, that, possessing his faculties to the last, ho caused himself to be
carried into the Gsrdens a few hours before his death, to take a last look at them."
They were called Spring Garden until 1785 ; and the licence, every leason, was to
the last obtained for " Spring Garden, Yauxhall.** The property remained with
Tyers's fiimOy untU it was sold in 1822, for 28,0007., to Bish, Gye, and Hughes (the
London Wine Company), who retained it till 1840. Their most profitable season was
in 1828; 133,279 visitors, 29,590^ receipts : the greatest number of persons in one
night was Ang. 2, 1833, the second night of the revival of the shilling admisrion, when
20,137 persons paid for admisnon. In 1827, Charles Farl^, of Covent-garden
Theatre, produced in the gardens a representation of the Battle of Waterloo, with set-
■oenes of La Belle Alliance and the wood and chiteaa of Hougomont; also horse
and foot soldiers, artillery, ammnnition-waggons, Ac. In July, 1841, the estate (about
duven aones), with it* boil^Dg^ timber, covered walk% Ao., was offered lor nle by
81^ 0UBI08ITIE8 OF LONDON.
mnction, bat bought in at 20»200^ The Gardens were open from 1732 to l&K)
without intermiarion ; in the latter year they were dosed, bat were re-opened in 1841.
At the close of this season there was a sale of moveable property, when twenty-fiiGr
pictares by Hogarth and Hayman prodnced small sams ; they had mostlj been npoa
the premises nnce 1742 ; the canvas was nailed to boards, and mnch obaeurnd by *^
Anong tb«te {ilctiirei were :— By HoMrtb: Dmnken Man, U. 4«.; a Woman pdObtg ont m (M
Ifaa's Grey Hain, SI. Sc; Jobaon ud NeU in the DevU to Fay, 4L ^.; the Happj Familr. SL lit-:
ChUdnn at PUy, 42. 11«. M. Qy Hayman : Children Birdtf'-neeting, U. lOe.; Mine4>^a> SJ^; the 'Bmgek
Hiuband, 4L 4f.; the Bridal Day, 62. <W. ; Blindman'a Bali; 32. 8*. j Ftiiioe Hemy and Falst^ 72.; S^s
fnm the Rake^a Progreaa, 92. 16«. : Meny-making, 12. 12«.: the Jealooa Husband. 42. ; Card-paitj. 6L;
Children's Party, 42. 16*.; Battledore and Shattleoock. IL 10a.; the Doetor, 42w l<«e. QdL: QutnjAsA,
22L 16«.; the Stonnina of Serinnpiutam, 82. lOa.; N<^tiuie and Britannia, 82. 16a. ^Onr bou oL
Bimnaon, the celebrated Maater or the Geremoniea, were sold fi>r lOt. ; and a boat of his rojal ahipcsaae,
The Gardens were finally dosed Jnly 26, 1859; and in the foDowin^ mooth were
sold the theatre, orchestra, dancing>platibrm, firework-gallery, fountains^ statoo^
▼ases, paintings, Ac, which brongfat small sams. The moat attractive lot was the
Oothic orchestra, bnilt by a carpenter named Maidman, and which, in l73d^ had re-
placed Tyers's music-house. This Oothic orchestra produced 99/.
The price of admission to the Gardens was 1^. until 1792, except on particolar
nights, as on the celebration of the fiftieth anniversary, when it was lOt. 6(2. After
1792 the admission was raised to 2a,, induing tea and coffee ; in 1809 to 3«. 6d. ; ia
1850 reduced to \t, ; and since Tarious. At the Ylttoria Fdte, Jnly 1814 (admissoa
one guinea), 1350 visitors dined in the rotunda, the Duke of York prending ; there
were also present the Dukes of Clarence, Kent, Sussex, and Glonoester ; the Ftinceas
of Wales, and the Duchess of York. The fireworks were by Colonel Congreve.
The Gardcni are well deaexibed hi the AMAmUOar, 12th editkm, 1830; where tha peintfawa in ths
anpper-pavlliona, by Hcnaith and Hayman, are enomerated. Very little alteration was male in the
arrangement of the wafka or tiie poaition of the boildinga rinoe thar were originally laid ost <?
eonatrocted \n the eldv Tjera, aa mi^ be seen by comparing the diiterent Tiewa of tba Gards^
One of the carlieat repreaentationa, dated 1737, ahowa the aeata and anppv tablea in the qoadras^ie
earrotmding the orcheatra, together with a perapectiTe of the Long Wal^ and an Hereoleaa atatoe at
ita extremity.
The ffeneral plan of the Gardens was a qQadTangolar arove, with the orehestra near its eeatre,
BorrcmiaiBd by broad covered walks, from the roofing of which were anspended, by wirea» Ulnmmalsisi
* bocket^lamps :" the earlier lampe reaembled the atreet-lampe of the laat oentmnr* At ^a» head of the
cjoadrangie was the Prinoe'a Pavilion, originaUy boilt for the aeeommodation of Fredari^ Prinee of
walca. To the right and left of the gruTe were aemidrcolar aweepe of aopper-boxea. The rotunda,
aerenty fbet in diameter, had part of ita area endoaed aa a ride for equestrian performanoes. At sose
diatance northward of the quadrangle was the theatre, where &r raanv veara were eahibited a meehankal
caacade, water-mill, and moTing flgoree ; bat latterly thia thetttre had been used for balleta and dramatk
pieces. The number of lampe upon extra gala>nighta exceeded 20,000. The flreworka were disdMigcd
iVom a lofty tower, at the end o? a long walk; whence Madame Saqoi deecttoded along a rope aeraal
hundred feet in length In a ahower of fir^ or U DiaTolo Antonio awnng by one foot on the UKk-rof^
playing a ailTer trumpet as he swung.
*8eel the large, allent, pale bluo'ligfat
Flares, to lead all to wnere the bright
Loud rocketa rush on high.
Like a long comet roaring through
The night, then melting into blue.
And starring the dark sky;
And Catberine-wheels, and crowma, and names
Of great men. whizzing in blue flames ;
Lights, like the amilea of hope;
And radiant, fiery palacea.
Showing the tope of all the bvea:
And Blackmore on the rope.'*
Lomdcm MagaamttVSSiA,
Balloons were cdebrated exhibitions of late. The first ascent was made from the
-Gardens in 1802. Green made several ascents from here, the most memorable of
which was his voyage firom Vauxhall to Weilbui^, in the Duchy of Nassan, in 1836^
in the stupendous balloon constructed in the Gudens, at the cost of 21001. ; beifrht,
80 feet ; circumference, 157 feet. This balloon was subsequently sold to Green for 500^
Jlfitfic.^Among the Yauxhall composers were Ame, Boyoe, Carter, Monntaic,
Signer Storace, and Hook (organist upwards of 40 years, fiither of Theodore Hook,
and unde of Dr. Hook, Dean of Chichester). Male singers : Beard, Lowei, Webh,
Dignum, Vernon, Indedon, Braham, Pyne, Sinclair, Tinney, Bobinson, Bedford, and
Sharp. Females: Miss Brent, Mrs. Wrighten, Mrs. Weischd (mother of Mrs.
WALBBOOK.'-WAFPING. 815
tillin^n), Mrs. Mountaio, Signora Storaoe, Mn. Croach, Mn. Bland, Min Tryrer
&fterward« Mrs. Liaton), Misd Graddon, Miaa Lore, Miaa Tunatall, &c Italian operait
rere performed here in 1829. The band were the last to wear the semidrcnlar or
Dcked hat.
IHreworkt were first oocanonaUy exhibited at Yaoxhall in 1798. The late Mr. John
'illinliam, of Walworth, poaseaaed a larg^ collection of Vauzhall bills of entertainment,
ngravings, and other interesting records of the Gardens.
The site was cleared, and a church, decticated to St. Peter, was boilt upon a portion
f the ground ; this church bung memorable as the first example in London, in the
^resent revival, of a church vaulted throughout. Here, too, have been erected a School
f Art; and roads, called Auckland-street, Burnett-street, Brunei-street, Leopold-
treet, Gye-street, and Italian-walk." — Sm Walks and Talks about London^ 1865.
JTALBBOOK,
m
A NARROW street named from the stream or brook which, rising on the north of
uL Moorfields, entered the City through the walls, between Bishopsgate and Moor-
;ate, and proceeded nearly along the line of the new street of that name; thenoe,
looording to Stow, across Lothbnrj, beneath the kitchen of Grocers' Hall and St.
iiildred's Church, through Bucklersbury, past the ngn of the " Old Barge" (from
fhames baizes being rowed up there) ; and thence through the present Walbrook-
treet, under which it still runs as a sewer, and discharges itself, by a part of Elbow-
ane, down Greenwich-lane, into the Thames at Dowgate. The Widbrook was crossed
>y a bridge connecting Budge-row and Cannon-street, and several other bridges, but
vas vaulted over with brick, and its banks built upon, long since ; so that in Stow's
;ime the course of Walbrook was " hidden under gpround, and thereby hardly known.''
rhe brook was navigable ndt merely to Bucklersbury but as far as Coleman-street^
irhere a Roman boat-hook has been found ; and with it was found a coin of Alectus,
irho ruled in Britain towards the close of the third century. In forming Prince's-
rtreet, the workmen came upon the course of the brook, wUch the Romans had em-
banked with wooden piles ; and the bed was thickly strewn with coins, brass scales,
(tyli, knives, tools, pottery, &c In Walbrook was one of the three taverns in London
icensed to sell sweet wines in the reign of Edward III. Walbrook gives name to the
vard : at its north-east comer is St. Stephen's Chureh, described at p. 204. Lower
lown, upon the brook, at Dowgate-hill, was the church of Allhallows the Less, destroyed
in the Great Fire, and not rebuilt ; but its burial-ground, with a solitary altar«tomb^
remains. Nearly opposite London Stone^ in June, 1852, was unearthed part of tba
sknster of the church of St. Mary Bothaw, which stood near Walbrook bank at Dow-
^te, and was named Boat-haw fhmi being near a yard where boat-building was car-
ried on : in the church was interred Fitzalwin, first Mayor of London. The writer of
I quarto MiHory of London, 1805, states that, in 1803, he saw the Wallbrook f^stiU
sickling among the foundations of the new buildings at the Bank.'
»9
WAFFING,
A HAMLET of Stepney, is now a long street extending firom Lower East Smith-
A field, on the nosrth bank of the Thames, to New Crane. It was commenced
building in 1571, to secure the manor from the encroachments of the river, whidi made
the whole site a great wash ; the Commissioners of Sewers rightly thinking that " the
tenants would not fail being attentive to their lives and property." Stow calls it
" Wapping in the Wose," or Wash.
Here was JEcMirfiim DoeJk, "the nsoal place for haoidng of pirates and MaFrovers, at the low-water
mark, and there to remain till three tides had overflowed them; bat siiice the gallowc being after
removed fiirthcr off, a oontinnal atreet or filthT ttrait paasage, with all^s of imaU tenement* or cottages
built, inhabited by •ailore' viotoallen, along bj the mer of Thamea ahnoet to BadoUffe, a good mile
from the lonssr^SUm,
Pennant notes : ** Execution Dock still remuns at Wapjnng, and is in use as ofteif
as a melancholy occasion requires. The criminals are to this day executed on a tem-
porary gallows placed at low-water mark ; but the custom of leaving the body to be
overflowed by the sea tides has long been omitted." — London^ 5th edit.
816 CUBI08ITIE8 OF LONDON.
In 1703 a destnictive fire took place at Execotion Dock, by which the sofllsen.
moitly teamen, aea-artificen, and poor seamen's widows, lost 13,0402. And ia 1794^
a great fire occurred at Wapping, burning 630 bouses, and an East India warebocae
containing 35,000 bags of saltpetre — tbe loss was 1,000,000/.
To Wapping. in 1688, Lord Chancellor Jeffreys fled in the disguise of a ooal-porter,
and was captured in the Bed Cow ale-house, in Anchor and Hope-alley, near Kbc
Edward's Stairs. He was identified by a scrivener be bad formerly insnlted, lolling oat
of window in all tbe confidence of misplaced security. (Ommta^Aom.) Bat at LeatiIe^
bead, where Jeffreys had a mandon, it is traditionally asserted that he was beuajed
by the butler who accompanied him in bis flight, for the sake of the reward.
Joseph Ames, F.R.S., author of the Typographical AjUiqiUiies, and Seeretarr ta
tbe Society of Antiquaries, was a ship-chandler at Wapping, where he died in 17SS:
" he was a person of vast application and industry in collecting old printed booA
prints, and other curiosities, both natural and artificial." {Cole.) John Day, wi'Ji
whom originated "Fairlop Fair," in Hainault Forest, was a block and a pomp
maker at Wapping. Here tbe first Fuchsia brought to Engbmd firom ihe Wes
Indies, being seen by Mr. Lee, the nurseryman, became, in the next flowering season
the parent of 300 fuchsia-plants, which Lee sold at one guinea each.
Wapping is noted, as in Stew's time, for its nautical signs, its ship and boat buildffs;
rope-makers, biscuit-bakers and prorinon-dealers ; mast, oar, and block makers ; ship*
chandlers and sail-makers : and the name Wapping was probably derived from tk
ship's rope called a wapp ; or from wapi»'9chaw, a periodical exhibition of arms, whkli
may formerly have been held upon this open ground. In the list of subscribers to
Wren*8 Parea^a^ia, 1750, is "The Mathematical Socid;y of Wapping;" andnanties]
instrument makers are said to have abounded here.
Among the thirty-nix taTeroi and pabllc-hoaaes in Wappinff ffig'h-sh-eet and Wapping Wall, we Ssd
the siffm of the Ship and Pilot, Ship and Star, Ship and Puncn-bowl, Union Flag and Pmadi-bovi, the
Guu, North American Sailor, Golden Anchor, Anchor and Hope, the Ship, Town of BamagaSe, Qa£6 »
Landing, Ship and Whale^ the Three Marlnera, and the Proepoct of Whitby.
Between Nos. 288 and 304 are *' Wapping Old Stairs,*' m Wapptn^-street, on tU
western side of the church ; but the wood-built wharf and bouse fronts towards tbe
river are fast disappearing.
Strype relates that "on Friday, the 24th of July, 1629, King Charles hariog
bunted a stag or hart from Wanstead, in Essex, killed him in Nigbtingiile-lane, in the
hamlet of Wapping, in a garden belonging to one , who had some damage auKo^
his herbs, by reason of the multitude of people there assembled suddenly/'
The village of Radcliffe, to which Wapping joins, is of some antiquity. From heocs
the gallant Sir Hugh Willoughby, on May the 20th, 1553, took his departure on his
fiital voyage for discovering the north-east passage to China. He sailed with great
pomp by Greenwich, where the Court then lay. Mutual honours were paid on bctb
sides. The coundl and courtiers appeared at the windows, the people covered thd
shores. The young King alone lost the noble and novel sight ; for he then lay on his
death-bed ; so that the principal object of the parade was disappointed. — MakUtft,
i. 239. Pennant's London, 5th edit.
ITATLING-STJEtEJST,
COMMENCING at the north-east comer of St. Pfturs-churchyard, and fonncrij
extending through Budge-row and Cannon>street, is oonadered to have been tbe
principal street of Roman London, and " one of the four gnmd Roman ways in Bri-
tain ;"* as well as a British road before the arrival of the Romans : " with the Britcm
it was a forest-lane or trackway ; with the Romans it became a stratum, sb^et, cr
* The Watlin^itreet Thistle {Ergngium eampeatre) in named from this andent road bdng Iti oelr
known habitat in England.— I^icer'g NorthamptonAire Qlo$$ary, ii. 386. Watlinjp mUmi, part a
which remains, ia one of the narrowest and most inconvenient streets in the metropolla :
"Who would of Watling-street the dangers 8har&
When the broad pavement of Cheapeide is near f"
WATLINO'STBEET. 817
nised rood, oonstracted according to tbeir well-known manner." (A. J. Kempe,
trch^eoloffia, xxvi. 467.) This is corroborated by the discovery of British remains on
he line, in Cannon-street.' The Romans made it part of their grand route from tho
oint of tbeir invasion, through a portion of Kent and the north-eastern comer of
urrey, and thence from Stoney-street over the Thames to Dowgate, north of the river^
y the present Watling-street, to Aldersgate ; where, quitting the City, it ran along
^oswell-street to the west of Islington, through Hagbosh-lane (the road in part
emains), to Yerulamium, or St. Albans. Dr. Stukeley, however, maintains that the
Id Watling-street did not enter London, but, in its course from Verulam, crossed the
)xford-road at Tybom, and thence ran over part of Hyde Park, and by May Fair
broagh St. James's Park, to the Wool-staple at Westminster, and crossed the
liames by Stanegate-ferry, through St. George's Fields, and south of the Lock Hospital,
Cent-street, to Deptford and Blackbeath. Stukeley adds: "as London increased,
•assengcrs went through the City by Cannon-street, Watling-street, and Holbom, this
»cing a vicinal branch of Watling-street." Wren, however, considers it to have been
he centre or Pnetorian way of the old Roman station ; the principal gate being at
•lastcheap. In 1853, in excavating Budge-row, there was discovered a fragment of
toman wall.
In a folio Map of Middlesex, by Bowen. 1700, a Botnan road appears from the comer of the
I'ottenham-conrt-road, where the Hampiteaa-road and the Enston-rood now meet, running through
rhat muiit now be the Regent's Park, until it reaches Edgware, and thence to Brockley Hills, caUed
tullonlacs, an ancient city in Antonine's IHiurary. In this Map, or in another with the same routes
Vatling-street is printed upon the U^way that leads to Tyburn Turnpike, in a manner to show the
vhole of that distance is meant. The Soman road from Tottenham Court, after making its appearance
n a variety of other maps, up to a certain date, about 1780, is nowhere to be Ibund since in any of the
^Itddlesex Maps. It is, however, certain that the part of Watling*Btieet crossing Ozford-stieet at
rybam, must nave led to Bdiprare.
** Watling-ctreet crossed the Walbrook by a bridge at the Junction of Cannon-street and Budge-row,
md then branching off at London Stone, in Gannon-street, ran along the Langboumeto Aldgate; whilst
I smaller road ran from the fisrry at Dowgate towards Crippl^fate, one of the three City gates during
he Boman rule. Enough of remains of houses have been found m Budge-row and Watling-street to
ihow that the rudiments of a street, in continuation of the line firom Aldgate, existed on the west side
>f the brook."— JToKoiiaZ Jfweetiany, No. 6.
This street, says Lcland, was formerly called AtheUng (or Noble) street, from being
near the Old Change, where the Mint formerly was; and afterwards, corruptly,
TTaiheling and Watling street : but from this Stow dissents. By another, Watiing
is traced to the ancient British words, gvoaith, work, and lea, legion, whence gwaUhm
^ea — i.e., legion work {Gent. Mag. 1796). Dr. Jamieson states it to have been " called
by the Bomans Fia LacUa (Milky Way), from its landed resemblance to a broad
(trcet, or causeway, being as it were paved with stars." Moxon, in his Tutor to
detronomy, 1670, describing the Milky Way, observes : ** some, in a sporting manner,
»11 it WaUing-street ; but why they call it so I cannot tell, except it be in regard to
;he narrowness itseemeth to have,'* which narrowness is now contrasted with the fine
t>road thoroughfiune of Cannon-street West. We must make room for a few more
itymons of this much disputed word ;
" The two words Watling Street are compounded of three English rooti^ which sre identical with the
Ingio-Saxon roots waeUino-^traeL No etymology hitherto advanced approximates so near, or is so rig-
lilicant or appropriate as this. We have to bear in mind that long before embankment and drainage
vere attended to in this ooualry, the meadows {injfi) were flooded after rain; and the mode of passing
klong the streets (the tlraigki or direct ways), wliere such impediment occurred, was bv watUes or
lurdles, called by the French ftueineB, and which are now used Ibr the same purpose in mUitanr opera-
ions. With so clear an etymotogical deduction, jre can dispense with Uoveden's gtraia mtamnlii regit
WetkUu tinMrmd {AwmU§, 842), with Camden's ViUlUeum*, In British OuHaUn, and even wfth
Thierry's Chpgdd-€Uii-»arn, Boad of the Gaels or Irish {Norman Comqtutt,L196), which are the only
>ther etymologies deserving attention. It is to be noted that Ani^o-Sazon names were given to wotu
dready ancient, when such names were imposed."— T. J. Buckton, Jfofat and QiMnc«, 2nd S, viL
The following is considered a good derivation: the name a Saxon oormption of tne Cymrio
Iwydelinsam (the way of the Oael), so called because tfc led to the oountry of the Qwyddyl— Ireland.
It is much more probable that it was the work of tiiat people daring its dominaacy in South Britain ;
ost as were the houses whose ruins, two centuries ago» were oaUed by the WeUi the houses of the Gael.
[Thierry's Norwum Oonquui, vol. L n. ^note. JfoUt and Q^urita, 2nd 8^ No. 40.) It is also suggested
Co have been called by corruption only riUlUn, or WaUing-»irtt^ from tne name of VUtUianu:
Mr. T. Bevel^, of Kendal, suggests that the Bomaas orobably emirioyed brushwood in forming the
foundations of their roads,* voA may have waUUd it to give it greater consistent ; and that the name
bad been given to the several roads so called by the Anglo-Saxons from the waftUM, tln^ remains of
which they had focoA, It would thus be mooymous with the name Wicker-street, which occurs in the
knth Antonhie IHneratj.-^Froe. 8oe, Aunq., vol iv. p. 266.
* FSgots are^ to this da7» used in making oar roads.
3 a
818 CUBI08IT1JB8 OF WIWON.
Watling-street has been* nnce Stew's time, inhabited by " wealthy drapers, jfSaBtn
of woollen dotbs, both broad and narrow, of aD sorts." Hatton deacribea it as *" ara^
Inhabited by wholesale grocers, tobacconists, and other great dealers." Serersl of tk
new bnildings in Cannon-street are manuon-Iike warehooses. At the east end r^
immense warehouses of the Manchester and silk trades ; the Qerman hronze and Bclr>
mian glass trades; the pin and needle trade; and about the centre the paper trsdg.
Near St. Swithin's-lane, are the wholssale tea and grocery and spioe trades. Here, txv
are leading booses of the shipping-trade, and Gdonial Banks and AasDrance Campanie&
Messrs. Lawrence and Sons (Alderman W. Lawrence, Lord Alayor, 1863-4) are tbs
bailders of several of these noble piles, and are the gronnd-landlords. Hoe is ik
City station of the Sonth-Eastem Railway.
Th« water-front towen of the Station bsTe gilded metal finUJv, with weather-Taxiea and anns. Tbt
edilloe, with its Tsat arch, ita apadona platfonna, its ten linea of raila, tta broad oariace-inQr, a&i c
the end, the handtome inner front of the hotel, and the flank erectiana, la nrobaUj tlie mieat etatit^ ^
London. The elaborate apparatoa of the Cannon-atoeet signal-box atretenes aeroaa nearly the €st :?
width of the roadwmr, ana haa abore the roof 24 semaphore arms, and 16 lamps abowin^ red. pee,
and white lighta. The awitchea which work the points and signals are a^jnsted In a metal fianie ia ns
straight line, and are an admirable and elaborate piece of mechanism, ^e levers, S7 in nnmbei, ar
ooloored Yellow, white, black, Uae, and red, and nnmbered pro^reiaiTdy 1^ drcolar bnua plates en tfaf?
fronts. The rellow lerera work the distance signals, and are mne in nomber ; me white, of whidi ihsn
are three, are Indicators, and relate to the station ; the black levers, of which there are 90, wcrk the -poess
which appear very complicated, there beinff as many as 12 pidrs of rails pasaiDg undo- the sgnai ba.
The blue levers work the semaphore anna for trains ontward ; and the red leven, 16 Sn nomber, ^s&.
the train inwards.
LoiTDOir Stoite, the famoos Roman relic of Watling-street^ is described at pp. 533-5^
WAX^WORK SHOWS.
THE oldest Exhibition of Wax-work in England of which we haye any reeord _
that at Westminster Abbey, called "the Play of the Dead Yolks," and "tbe
Bagged Kegiment," shown by the keeper of the tombs. From a passage in a rhymisg
account of the tombs in Westminster Abbey, in the Mysteries of Love and JSl^tienre,
1658, it would appear that at that time the following were the waxen figorea exhibited
in the presses >—
" Htmrf Ikt Stvenih, and hia fair Qoeeo,
JBdward ike Fint, and his Queen ;
Henrm (he Fifth here stands npright.
And hia isSi Queen was thia Qoeen.
* The noble prince, Prinee Sntry,
Kina James's eldest son:
King Jama^ Qk««« AmUt Qaesa JBTiaaftett,
And so this chapel's done.**
In Peacham's Worik of a Penny, 1667, we read : " For a penny you may hear s
most eloquent oration upon our English kings and queens, if, keeping yoar hands c^
you will seriously listen to David Owen, who keeps the monuments in Westminster."
Of the wax- work (which is mentioned at p. 128) we find the fbllowiiig aoooont in s
description of the Abbey, " its monuments and curiositaea^" " printed for J. Newbenv
at the Bible and Sun, in St. Paul's Churchyard, 1754 :"
" Over this chapel (laUpb otherwise StErasmaB)isachantiTinwbieharetwo large waxnaeotpmaa
ftdl of the elBgieb of princes and others of high quality, boried in this Abbqr. These effipes icaaabtei
the deceased as near as possible, and were wont to be exposed at the fhnenus of onr priooas and other
neat personagea in open chariota, with their proper enrigns of royalty or hoooor appended. Those
uiat are here laid np are in a aad mangled condition^ some sapped, and othera in tatTfiKl robes, bat
all maimed or broken. The most ancient are the least i^jored, ixj wnich it woidd seem as if the cosrfi>
ness of their clothes hsd occasioned this ravage; for the robes of £dward VL, whMi wei«oQ«of
crimson velvet, bnt now appear like leather, are left entire : bnt those of Q. Elisabeth and K. Jasna
the First are entirely stript, as are all the rest of ev»y thing of value. In two handsosns wKoseot
presses are the eifigiea of K. William and Q. aaiy: and Q. Anne^ in good eondition, and greatly admired
w every eye that beholds them." The flgare of Cromwell is not hers mentioaed; bat hi the aeeoact
or his lying-in-state, the effigies is described as made to the lift, in wax, apparelled m velvet, goM laoe,
and ermine. Thia flgnre was laid upon the bed-of'State. and carried upon the hearss fak the ftaceral
procession: both were then deposited in Westminster Abbey : bat at the Bestoratioii, the faeane w
broken in pieces, and the efBgies was destroyed after hanging from a window at WMt^idL
Under date of 1761, Horace Walpole complains that « the Cluster of Westminster
tell their church over and over again : the ancient monument* tumble upon one's bead
through their neglect, as one of them did, and killed a man, at Lady Elizabeth Piercy's
funeral ; and they erect new waxen dolls of Queen Elizabeth^ ftc, to draw viats sod
money from the mob."
WAX'WOBK BH0W8. 819
In the Fietmre of London, 1806, the collection is described as *'a variety of figures
in wax, in cases with glass doors, which are shown as carious to the stranger f* thdr
exhibition was oontinaed until 1839.
Nollekens, the sculptor, nsed to describe the oollecfcion as " the wooden figures, with
wax masks, aU in silk tatters, that the Westminster boys called ' the Ragged Kegiment f
and carried before the corpse formerly ; kept in narrow closets between the wax figures
of Qaeen Elizabeth and Lord Chatham in his robes ; in Bishop Islip's Chapel, where
yon have seen the stained glass of a boy slipping down a tree, a slip of a tree, and the
eye slipping out of its socket."
Nbw ExCHAirGB, Strand, was also noted for its Wax-work shows.
Mb8. Salkozt'b Waz-wobk, in Fleet-street, is described at p. 850. The minor
Exhibitions of wax- work are too numerous to mention ; but we may instance a collec-
tion of figures shown at the Queen's Bazaar, Oxford-street, in 1830; and Dubourg's
Mechanical Exhibition, in Windmill-street, Haymarket; as admirable specimens of
foreign ingenuity in wax-modelling. To these may be added the lifelike and spirited
figures of costumed natives of Mexico, and American Indian^ modelled in wax with
surprising minuteness and artistic feeling both in the position and grouping, varied
expression, uid anatomical development; tnese figures, at the Great Exhibition of
1851, gained' for their artist, N. Montanari, a prize medaL
MADAm Tv89ATn> AND SOS'S Collection, Baker-street, Portman-square, is stated to
be the oldest exhibition in Europe. It was commenced on the Boulevard du Temple
at Paris in 1780, and was first shown in London, at the Lyceum, Strand, in 1802. It
now consists of upwards of 300 figures in wax, in the costume of thdr time, and several
in the dresses which they actually wore ; besides a large collection of paintings and
sculpture, arranged in superb saloons.
Madame ToMsod was bom at Berne, in Switzerland, in 1790. When a child ihe was tanght to
model ^orea in wax, by her vncle M. Carttoa, at whoae honae she often dined with Voltaire, Rooasesa.
Dr. Franklin, Mirabean, and La Fayette, of whoae heads she took casta. She tanght drawing ana
modelling to the Prlnceas Elizabeth, and many of the French nobleaae, joat before the Berolutlon of
1789L She alao modelled in wax Robespierre, Man^ and Danton ; ana often took models of heads
aevered on the aealfold. Thna she commenoed her collection of royaliata, revolntionista, generals,
aotbora and men of seienoe, and distinguished ladies ; with which ahe came to London in 1808. She
has left her Memein and Bmitinuetmeet, pablished in 1888 ; a very cnrioos narratiTe of the old Frenoh
Bevoliition, and its leading characters en cothms. Madame Tnssaad died in London, 16 ApriL 1860,
aged 90; her mother lived to the same ag^ her grandmother to 104^ and her great-grandmother to 111.
The Tusnud Collection not only contains fine specimens of modelling in wax, but a
curious assemblage of costume and personal decoration, memorials of celebrated
characters, historical groups, Ac. Among the most noteworthy are the costumed
recumbent effigies of the Duke of Wellington ; a group of Henry YIIL and his six
queens; Edward Yl. and Henry YII.; Queen Victoria and Prince Albert ; the Prince
and Princess of Wales ; the Prince and Princess of Hesse ; and the rest of the Boyal
Family ; Alexander Emperor of Russia, taken from life, in England, in 1814 ; Napoleon
Bonaparte, from life^ in 1816; Louis XVI., his queen and children, modelled from
life, in 1790, and exhibited at La Petite Tiianon; Lord Nelson, the cast taken from
his ftoe ; the beautifnl Madame TAmaranthe ; Madame Tnssaud, taken by herself,.
WOlism Cobbett, very like ; Madame Grisi as Lucrezia Borgia ; Itichard 111., from
the portnut at Arundel Castle; Voltaire (taken fh)m life a few months before his-
death), and a Coquette of the same period, both admirably characteristic ; Lonsbkin,
the Russian giant, 8 feet 6 inches high ; Jenny Lind, veiy like ; Sir Walter Scott,
modelled by Madame Tnssaud, in Edinburgh, in 1828 ; the Empress Eugenie and the
Prince Imperial of France ; Maximilian, Emperor of Mexico; Garibaldi, Count Cavour,
Poerio, Antonelli, and Count Bismarck; Preddents Lincoln and Johnson (United
State^; Queen Victoria (recently added). The sovereigns of the world, heroes and
statesmen, are well-timed additions.
HaU of IRngt, — Kings and Queens of England, since the Conquest, thirty-six in
number ; the costumes and ornaments worn at the various periods, copied from historical
authorities!, by Mr. Francis Tnssaud and assistants. This series has proved an espedally
attractive addition. The celebrities of the rogns are added ; as Wicklifiia, Wykeham,
Chanoer, Caxton, Shakspeare, Ac The CMling of the Hall of Kings is painted by Sir
3 a 2
820 CUBIOSITIES OF LONDON.
Jiiiiies ThornhilL Here are portraits of Qaeen Victoria (Hayter); Princae Albert
(Patten); George IV. (Lawrence); William IV. (Simpson); George III. and Qne<s
Charlotte (Reynolds) ; George II. (Hudson); Loois XIV. (Psrosel). Also a gitnp of
figures of Qaeen Victoria (t^B throne from Carlton Palace) ; the Qneen Dowser, tLe
iHikes of Sussex and Cambridge, and the Princesi Augusta, in Corooatjan rciies;
George III. taken from life in 1809 ; WiUiam IV. as Lord High Admiral.
In the riclily-gilt chamber adjoining is George IV. in his Coronation Bobe, whicb,
with two other robes, contain 667 feet of velyet and embraideiy, and oast 18,Q0Uh'. :
the chair is the homage>chair, used at the Coronation ; and the crown and soe|iire, orb.
orders, &c, are copies from the actual regalia. Here is a large picture of the Birth <£
Venus, by Boucher ; and of the Marriage of George IV., with many portraits.
Ifapoleon Selict.^The camp-bedstead on which Napoleon died ; the oonnterpane
stained with his blood. Cloak worn at Marengo. Three eagles taken at Waterlao.
Cradle of the King of Rome. Bronze posthumous cast of Napoleon, and hat worn L7
him. >Vhole-leng^ portrait of the Emperor, from Fontainebleau ; Marie Loatse and
Josephine, and other portraits of the Bonaparte family. Bust of Napoleon, by CaiMyra.
Isabey's portrait table of the Marshals. Napoleon's three carriages : two from
Waterloo^ and a landau from St. Helena. His garden chair and drawing-room chair.
" The flag of Elba." Napoleon's sword, diamond, tooth-brush, and table-knife ; dosert
kmfe, fork, and spoons ; coffee-cup ; a piece of willow-tree from St. Helena ; shoe-eocks
and handkerchiefs, shirt, Ac. Model fig^ure of Napoleon in the clothes he wore as
Longwood ; and porcelain dessert-service used by him. Napoleon's hair and tooth, &c
Miscellaneout Relict, — ^Nelson's Order of the Bath, and coat worn at the Nile.
Snuff-box of James II. Shirt worn by Henry IV. of France when stabbed br
Ravaillac (from CarcUnal Mazarin's collection). Coat and waistcoat of tbe Doke of
Wellington, given to Haydon, the painter. Model of Longwood, St Hdlena.
The CJuuHber of Sorrort contains portrait figures of the murderers Rush and the
Mannings, Good and Greenacre^ Courvoisier and Gkmld, Burke and Hare ; I>nmoUard
and his wife, believed to have murdered seventeen or eighteen persons ; Nana Sahib;
George Townley. Rerri, Pianori, and Orrini, who attempted to assassinate the Emperor
of the French. William Palmer and Catherine Wilson, the poisoners. Oxford and
Frauds, who shot at Queen Victoria. Franz Miiller, murderer; Fiesebi and the
infernal-machine; Marat, taken immediately after his aasaannation; heads of FreDcfa
Revolutionists ; the knife and lunette used in decapitating 22,000 persons in tbe first
French Revolution, purchased from M. Sanson, the grandson of the original ezecntaoner,
now residing in Pkris. Also a model of the guillotine, &c. ; this being a class of models
in which Madame Tussaud excelled in her. youth. Admission to the general collec-
tion, 1#. ; Chamber of Horrorsy 6d, Music, instrumental, in the evening.
Thx Obiintal akd TuBdSH MussTTU, Knightsbridge, opened 1854^ contabed
models from Eastern life, with costumes, arms^ and implements; let scenes of Turkidi
baths, coffee-shops and bazaars^ a wedding, repasts, and councils; the palace, the
harem, and the divan; street scenes, &c; the figures were modellod in wax« by Jamei
Boggi, with wonderful variety of expression and character.
ITESTMINSTHM.
^HE general title of the western portion of the metropolis, but properly a|^yh^
-L only to the City of Westminster, or " the parish of St Margaret^ inaadii^ tbe
ecdenastical district of St. John the Evangelist; the other parishes constitnting tbe
Liberties of Westminster." (Sev. M. JE, C, WaleoiL) It is named fxtm the fbimd-
ing of St Peter's Minster on Thomey Ishtnd in the seventh oentuiy, which was alkd
West Minster to distinguish it from St. Pkiul's, the chuieh of the East Saxons: thus
the town grew up around the monastery from whi<^ it took its name. Theisdand site^
** formed by the rude channel worn by the river tides," in a charter of King Ofli,
A.D. 785, is called " Tomeia in loco terribili, quod, didtur st Westmunster." Eii^
Edgar's charter describes Westminster to extend from Fleet Ditch^ next the Qty of
London, to the Military Way, now the Honcfeny-roadj and from T^boum and
WESTMINSTER. 821
Holbonrne to the Thnmes. Sabeequently, the boundary of tbe City of London was
extended from Fleet Ditch to Temple Bar.
Thomey Inland, 470 yards long and 370 yards broad, was insulated by a small
stream, called in modem times Loxig Ditch, whiob has been traced from the Thames at
Manchester-buildings, across King*street by Qardener's-bine, by Prince's-street (whero
it is the common sewer), to Tothill-Btreet» and thence to the Thames at the end of
Abingdon-street.
"This island oomprised the precinct of the Abb^ and Palace, which were Airttaer defended by lofty
■tone walls : thoee on the east and south of the College garden* being the last remains of such defences
of a later date. They were pierced with foor gateways : the first in King-street ; the second near New
Falace-yard, the foundations of which were seen in December a.d. 1838, in eicavating for a sewer; the
tbird opening into ToUull-street; and the fourth near the mill in College-street. The precinct was
entered by two bridges : one crossed the water of Long Ditch, at the east end of Gaidener's-lane,
having been built by Queen Matilda, the consort of King Henry I., for foot passcnzerit; the other still
exists at the east end of College-street, underneath the paTemoit,— it oonneuted Milibank with Dirty-
lane."— Waleotfs Wegtmintter, p. 3.
in St. James's-square, and for the foundations of the Junior United Service Club, Charles-street, Hay-
market, tusks, teeth, and bonea of the elephant, hippopotamus, rhinooeros, ox, &c., were obtaiuM,
specimens of some of which are preserved oareAUly at the aboTe-named club.— B. W. Mylnt, F.OJS.
In Domesday-Book, Westminster is designated a village, with about 50 holders of
land, and " pannage for a hundred hogs," probably in part of the forest of Middlesex,
on the north-west ; so that the Liberty of Westminster thus early extended northward
to Tybnm : the whole of the Abbey and Palace precinct, south of Fall Mall, was called
by the Normans, " Thomey IsUind and tout le champ." In Domesday, ahio, occurs " the
vineyard lately made by Baynard," a nobleman tiiat came in with William the Con-
queror. Westward, the parish of St. Margaret's extends to Chelsea, and includes
Kensington FaUice. In 1174, Fitzstephen describes the Royal Palace as about two
miles westward of the City of London, with an intefvening suburb of gardens and
orchards. Around the Old Ffthice the courtiers and nobility fixed their town residences.
The establishment of the Woolstaple at Westminster made it the early resort of
merchants ; the Law Courts were fixed here, and thenceforth Parliaments were more
frequently held ; and in the reign of Henry YIII., Westminster obtained the title of
City, from its having been for a short time the residence and see of a bishop. St.
Martin's-in-the-Fields became a parish 1853-61.
Early in the reign of Queen Elizabeth, about 1560, a plan shows Westminster united
to London by a double line of buildings, extending ftom the palace of Whitehall (built
by Henry III.)> by Charing Cross and along the Strand. Around Westminster Abbey
and Hall, the buildings formed a town of several streets; and at the dose of Charles
II. 's reign they had extended westward along the south nde of S^-. James's Park; and
southward along Milibank to the Horseferry opposite Lambeth Palace. In the reign
of Elizabeth, Westminster was the abode of great numbers of felons, masterless men,
and cutpurses ; and in the next rdgn, " almost every fourth house was an alehouse,
harbering all sorts of lewd and badde people." To the church of St. Margaret
(originally built by Edward the Confessor) was added, in 1728, St. John's near Mill-
bank; and in 1747 was completed Westminster Bridge. The old streets were so
narrow, that " opposite neighbours might shake hands out of the windows ;" and a
knot of wretched lanes and alleys were called " the desert of Westminster." Among
the old Westnunster signs, mentioned in the parish-books, are The Rose (the Tudor
badge) ; TheLcmb and the Saracen* » Sead (Crusades) ; and The White Hart (Richard
II.), to this day the sign of Elliot's Brewery at Pimlico. Westminster is governed
by a High-Steward and a High-Bailiff. The first High-Steward was the great Lord
Burghley. The City has returned two members to Parliament since 1 Edv^'ard VI.
Abingdon-etreet has been built in place of Dirty-lane. Almonry, the (eee p. 6),
has disappejired. St, Annexe-lane, named from the Chapel of the Mother of Our
Lady, was part of the orchard and fruit-gardens of the Abbey. Henry Purcell and
Dr. Heather, the lamous musicians, lived here. Artillery-place was the ground for
the men of Westminster's shooting at " the butts ;" and early in the last century it
was " made use of by those who delight in military exercises."
322 CUBI08ITIE8 OF LONDON.
BarUm-Hreel was Mlt by Butoa Booth, the oelebnted actor ; and Cotsiejf-ftnd
M named from Cowley, in Middlesex, where Booth resided. Broadmmf, vat d
Tothill-atreet^ was granted as a hay-market by James L and Charles II. Here «cr
^ the While Sor$e and Black Eone Inns ; there beii^ none in the pariih df^
Margaret at Westminster for stage-ooaehes, waggons, or carriers." (Survef, ore.
1700.) In one of the Broadway eoorts lodged Torpin, the highwayman ; aad froa
his mare^ Blaek Besi, a tavern took its rign. In the Broadway lired Sir John HO,
the empiric, of phjne-garden fiune. (Set Ch&istchubch, Broadway, p. 166.)
Ckuton-row formerly extended from the Woolstaple northward to the sooth vill of
the orchard of Whitehall. It is named from the dean and canons of St. Stephen's Chipd
lodging there.
"TwM the old way when the Khur of Enghmd had his hooMtthsre were eaaons to ^Bf k*^^
his chapel ; lo at Wertminater U St. Stephen's Chapel (where the Hooae of Oomncns aita) lraa& vtui^
oanona the street called Caoon-row has its name^ becaoae they lived there."— Selden^ TaNe4aft.
It has been Tnlgarly called Channel-row, and in oor time Gannon-row. Upon the sit«
of the canon's houses were built several mannons^ the gardens of wtudi readied to th«
niames : for one of these the Comptroller of the Household of Edward YI. pud cnh
SOkt. annually. Here Anne Duchess of Somerset, nsteroin-law to Queen Katbecise
Firr, built a stately house, wherein Anne Cliffoid, Countan of Dorset^ was ban a
1690 : upon this site U Dorset-court. In 1618^ William Earl of Derby bmlt here &
mansion, which was snirendered to Piuliament iemp» Charles I. ; and here died, in
1643, John Pym, thebr patriotic leader : the house was temporarily, in the reign of
Charles II., the Admiralty Office ; it oorupied the site of Derby-court. In Canoo-rov
lived Lady Wheler, to whom Charles I., two days before his czecatioD, sent, bj ba
attendant Herbert^ a token-ring : the lady handed him a cabinet, with which he retailed
to the King, who opened it on the morning of his execution ; it ocmtained diamonds and
jewels, most part broken Georges and garters : *• You see," said he, ** all the wealth
now in my power to give my children." Here is the Cfffiee qf the Board of Contfd
for the Affain of Ii^Ua, originally built for the Ordnance Office, by Willism Atkin-
son : " the Ionic portioo of this chaste and fine building is one of the best proportiooed
and best applied in the metropolis" {Blmes). Mandketter-buildniffe occupy the site of
a manuon oif the Montagues, Earls of Manchester. CharUt-elreet : at Ka 19 Kred
Ignatius Sancho, a negro, who had been butler to the Duke of Montague^ and gsre hii
last shilling to see Garrick pky Richard III. Here Garrick and Steme visted him;
and Mortimer, the painter, often consulted him.
JDeam'i'yard, south-west of the Abbey, has a ^roeii, or playground, for the West-
minster Sdiolars, whereon have played, in "careless ddldhood," Ben Jonsoq» Geu^ge
Hezbert^ Cowl^, Dryden, Nat Lee, Rowe, Prior, ChuichUl, Dyer, Cowper, and
Sonthey; Haklnyt, the voyager; Sir Christopher Wren, Locke, South, Atterboir,
Warren Hastings* and Gibbon. In Deau's-yard lived Sir Symonds d'Ewei^ the anti-
quary, who delighted in bell-rin^ng. Bishop Wiloocks, whom Pope Clement YIH.
called " the blessed heretic," was bom in Dean's-yard in 1673 ; in the doisten, io
1708, died the excellent Bishop Beveridge ; Carte, the Jacobite historiao, lirai in
Dean*8-yard, where Mrs. Porter, Gibbon's aunt» built and occupied a boardiDg'hQQtt.
In Little Dean's-yard is Ashbttbkhax Hottsx, described at p. 444. 2tocw8|-
Hreet is described at p. 807. Duke-etreet, " a spacious and pleasant street between St.
James's Park N., and Long Ditch S., mostly (espedally the W. nde) inhabited bj
persons of quality " (ffattoi^, 1706). In a house fiidng Charles-stieet lived the poet
Prior. Bishop Stillingfleet» author of Origines BritamuetB^ died here 1699 ; Archbishop
Button, 1758 ; and Dr. Arnold, the murical composer, 1802. Ditkb-stsbit ChipH' is
described at p. 210.* At the corner of the south end of DehLhay-street and Orei^
Creorge-street lived Lsdy Augusta Murray, « Duchess of Suasex."
* The chapel waa a portkm of the tnagnHloent hooae bnfltftMrLordChaiiMUor Jelft«ji,iqxB*l^
of fronnd which he obtained b^ grant from Charlea 11^ on the east aide of Si. Jamea's Firk. "^
aoon as the bnilding waa completed, the architect, of courae, odled upon him for payment, bat nt F"^
off; he called a^^ain and again, bat never ooold aee him, and waa often repolaea from his ntebrtbc
porter, with rodeneea and ill langoage. The general character and de^tie power of imtj* P**
vented the architect from taking aiqr legal steps in the boalneBS^ till Jeffrqrr power began te ***
WESTMINSTER. 823
Flndyer-Hreet, between King-street and St. James's Park, was named from Sir
Samnel Flndyer, Bart., the groand-Iandlord, who, when lord-mayor in 1761, enter-
tained George III. and Qoeen Charlotte at Quildhall. Fludyer-street occupied the
site of Aze-yard, fix>m the Axe brewhonse, named in a document 23 Hen. YIII. Pepys
had a house here. Fludyer-street has been taken down for the site of the new GoTem-
meut offices.
Gardener^s-lane extends from Duke-street to Eing-street : here died, in 1677, Wen«
ceslaus Hollar, the celebrated engraver, aged 70, at the moment when he had an execu-
tion in his house ; he desired of Uie sheriff's officers " only the liberty of dying in his bed,
and that he might not be removed to any other prison but his grave " (Oldys), He
was buried in the New Chapel yard, near the place of his death ; and no monument
was erected to his memory. Hollar engraved 2400 prints, and worked for the book-
sellers at 4d. per hour ; yet his finest prints bring rare prices. The Gatbhoubb is
described at p. 873. OretU Oeorge'Street, named from the House of Hanover, was
completed in 1760 : the site was an arm of the Thames, when the tide flowed up from
Bridge-street to the canal in St. James's Park. Here was Storey's Gkite, named from
Edward Storey, who constructed the decoys in St. James's Park for Charles II., and
who lived upon the site : this gate was taken down in 1864. At No. 16, Great
George-street, died Lord Chancellor Thurlow, 1S06. At No. 26 (then Sir Edward
Knatchboll's) the body of Lord Byron lay in state two days, before it was removed,
July 12, 1824, for interment at Hucknall, Notts. No. 26, Great George-street,
has a handsome architectural front, and is now the InstUuHon of Chil Engineer$
{see LiBSABiEB, p. 617 ; and MTTSSUKa, p. 692). At No. 24 the Reform Club was
commenced; and4iere subsequently lived Alderman Sir Matthew Wood, Bart., M.P.
At the comer - of the street, fieiCLDg St. Margaret's Churchyard, is the magnificent
Buxton Memorial Drinking Fountain, described at p. 368.
Hareefeny (the) is described at p. 43&
Jamet'Hreet is described at p. 479. It was partly taken down in 1864 for the
Hmlioo improvements, and the offices of the Duchy of Cornwall.
In 176S there were bat Uiw hooiei in James-etreet, and none behind it; nor any filthj coorts
betwen Petty France and the Park; nor any boildinn in Palmer'a Village^ or in Totiml-fieldB, or on
the ArtUieiy-groond, or to the sonui of Market-etreet.— JBontoetf.
EAng^gtreet was the principal streot of Westminster temp, "Rearf YIII., with
Cockpit-gate at the north end, and High-gate south. Here the poet Spenser died
''fbr lake of bread," in an obacore lodging, Jan. 16, 1699; here also died Sir Thomas
Knevett, who seized Guy Fawket. Cromwell lived here when member of Parliament,
north of Blue Boar's Head-yard. Dr. Sydenham lived upon the tote of Barn's Mews.
Near the south end, on the west side, was TMeven- (TMeves) lame,* the passage for
thieves to the Gatehouse prison, so tiiat they might not escape into the Sanctuary.
The roadway was so bad, that faggots were thrown into the ruts to facilitate the passage
of the state-coach when the Sovereign went to Parliament. Here, at the BeU Tavern,
met the October (Queen Anne) Club. Here lodged the poet Carew, who wrote the
masque of Cesium BrUasmicum for Charles I. Through King-street, Elizabeth and
James and Charles I. proceeded to the Houses of Parliament in th^ state-coaches ;
and the republicans of Cromwell's days on foot and horseback. After the burning of
Whitehall Palace, a broader road was made by Parliament-street. Cromwell, when he
went to Ireland in 1649, took horse at his house in King-street.
Cromwell lired on the west side of the etreet, in a bouse, the precise situation of which is thus pre-
■erred in a oonunonicatlon to Cunningham's StaidbwA t^ London, 1860 :—
upon the first flight of King James. He then made his way into Jellbejs' studr, saw him, and pressed
for his money in verr urgent terms. Jeffreys appeared all humble and much confhsed, made many
apolc^es for not sottung the matter before, said he had manv we^hty affldrs pressing on his mind at
that time ; but if he would call the Tuesdsy following it should be flnaUy settled. The architect went
away after this promise: but between that and Tuesday, Jtffrejs, in endeavouring to make his escrao
from England, was found out, reviled, and much bruised by the populace."— 2SHrop«a» Maoanns, 17M^
p. 248. fare of the then "magnificent house" is No. 23, Duke-street, with passage and steps leading
to the chapel and park. There, after the terrible Judge's sudden fklL as Maotulay tells us, the exultant
rabble congregated, and read on the door, with shouts of laughter, the bills which announced the sale
of his property.
* Thieven or Thisvino'kuu was also called BoW'Street^ from its bowed line } and Bow-street^ Goveot
harden, to this day the terror of thieves.
824 CUBI08ITIE8 OF LONDON.
•f
Shortly before Um grmt Trial, in 1838. between the parish of St. Uarfraret and tht
cotainty as the extcntiTe alteraUooa in the Ticiniiy waaJd admil, to be one of two rtrj
ancient tenements lying between the north aide of the gateway entrance to Bloe Boai^a Head-yv& %sl
the wall of Ran)8'*mew8 ; and there was atrong groond for beliering that the two ancient teiuraisa
had originally been one. Theee tenementa, as well aa the JBlmt Boar't Head pablie^UNiM; aitcai^u lc
the ioath side of the gateway, and a portion of the atable-yard behind, for a diatance of about tvt-< x
three hundred feet fi>oin King^street, are the property of one of the ooUegea at Oxford. Tbe pafc^>
boose (Bltu Boar'M Head), aa rebuilt abont 1760^ is now (1850) atanding."— Oeora« S. Jfolimc.
In the Cole MSS. in the Britiah Museom is a copy of a letter of Cromwell to hia wile from Danhs^
Sept. 4, 1650, addreased to her in this street
At tbe nortb end of King-itreet was built^ by Henry YIIL, tbe Westminster or Kisg*»
Gate, of stone^ as a commnnication, by a passage over it, of Wbitehall Palace witb tie
Piuk: it was of Tudor design, with four round-capped turrets: ea^ front w^
enrkhed witb Ionic pilasters and an entabkturep roses, the portcallis, and tbe loysl
arms, and glazed biscoit-ware busts. In this Gatehouse lived tbe Earl of RoehesLiT
and Herr von Aula : it was taken down in 1723.
MilHank'ttreet, in 1745 called the High-street at Millbank, was named froai the
Abbey water-mill, boilt by Nicholas Litlington, at the end of the present College-
street, and turned by the stream which flowed by the Infirmary garden-wall eastward
into tiie Thames (Walcott), Upon the site of the mill was built Peterboioagh Hoos^
by the first Earl of Peterborough, in the reign of Charles I., and ahown in Hollar's Map
of London, 1708. Stow describes the mansion with a large front ooort, and fine gazdaa
behind ; " but its situation was bleak in winter, and not over-heaithfhL" The boose
was purchased by the Grosvenor fiunily, and rebuilt : it was taken down in 1809. In tbe
middle of Millbank lived Mr. Yidler, the Government contractor : benoe the mail-coadi
procession started annually on the Idng's birthday. The FenUenUanf^ at Millbank, is
doM^bed at p. 697. In Ain^-ioay, adjoining, was a chapel where Bomaine preached.
PaUuB-yardy New, is named from William Rufns's intended new palace, of which tbe
hall only was built ; here was a beautiful Conduit, removed temp, Charles II. Opposite
Westminster Hall gate, temp. Edward I., Lord Chief- Justice Hengham bailt a large
■tone dock-tower, taken down 1698. In this yard King Edward I. appealed to the
loyalty of his people, from a platform erected against the front ot Westminster Hall, in
1297; here Perkin Warbeck was set in the stocks, in 1498; Stubbs, the Puritan
attorney, and his servant, had their hands cut off in New Palaee-yard, in 1380, for a
libel against Queen Elizabeth ; and William Parry was here hung and quartered fir
high treason, in 1578 ; here Lord Sanquhar was hanged for murder, 1612 ; Aichbishc^
Leighton's father was pilloried and publicly whipped for libel, 1630 ; William Prynne
was pilloried here, and his Eittrio-Maetix burned, 1634 ; here the Duke of WawiSU/m,
the Earl of Holland, and Lord Capel, were put to death for treason, in 1649 ; Titos
Gates was pilloried here in 1685 ; and John Williams, in 1765, for publishing No. 45
of Wilkes's North Briton. Here was the InrVe Head, Miles's Coffee-house, wheze
the noted Rota Club met, whose republican opinions Harrington baa glorified in his
Oeeana. The Tudor buildings of the old P^daoe were prindpaUy taken down in 1793 :
but a range, including the Star Chamber, on the eastern side of the court, were not
removed until 1836 : they, are described at p. 450. At his offidal residence, east of
Westminster Hail porch, died William Godwin, the novelist, April 7, 1836, aged 8L
Palace'tford, Old, sooth-west of the Houses of Parliament, had on the west the old
Lady Chapel of the Abbey, and abutting upon it the White Boee Tanerm, and tbe
house of Chaucer, in which he died (the site is now occupied by the mauaoleom of
Henry YII.) ; and in a house between the churchyard and the Old Palace died Bea
Jonson ; so that two cf England's greatest poets died almost upon the same spot. At
the south-east corner of Old Palace-yard stood the house through which the conspirators
in the Gunpowder Plot carried their barrels into the vault ; and in the Yard, Guy
Pawkes, Winter, Bookwood, and Eeyes, suffered death in 1606. Here, 29th Oct 1618,
8ir Walter Raleigh was executed at eight in the morning of Lord Mayor's Day, ** so that
the pageants and fine shewes might draw away the people from beholding the tragedie
of one of the gallantest worthies that ever England bred." In the Pepysian CoUectiaa
at Cambridge is a Ballad with the following title : " Sir Walter Rauleigh his Lamenta-
tion, who was beheaded in the Old P&Uaoe of Westmmstcr the 29 of October 1618.
To the tune of WeUaday."
WESTMINSTEE. 825
Palmef^s TUlaffe, wesfc of the Almonry, was a low-lying district (12^ inches below
igh-water mark), consisting of straggling cottages aroond the twelve almshooses built
\ 1566 by the Rev. Edward Palmer, B.D., with a chapel and school attached. Forty
ears since, here was an old wayside inn (the Frince of Orange), rows of cottages
rith gardens, and the village>green, npon which the Maypole was annually set up : this
orality has now disappeared, and with it from maps and plans the name of " Palmer's
'illage." FarlC'Hreet, bmlt cire, 1708, northvrard from Carteret-tireetf making it
ke a T, contains the house of Mr. Charles Townley, who, in 1772, assembled here his
mt collection of marbles, terra-cottas, bronzes, &a, commenced in 1768 at Rome.
See Bbiubh Mxtssxtx, p. 579.) Mr. Townley died here drd January, 1805. The
ouse and collections are well described by J. T. Smith, in NoUehem and Me Times,
ol. i. pp. 261-266. " The hite Boyal Cockpit, which afforded Hogarth an excellent
3ene for his humour, remained a next-door noisy nuisance to Mr. Townley for many
ears." Fetttf France (Petit Ihince, Uatton, 1708), and now Tork-etreet, from
'rederick Duke of York, son of George II., having temporarily resided here, extends
ram TothiU-street to James-street. In Petty France was Milton's pleasant garden-
ouse, described at p. 654 Prina^e-etreet was formerly Lang DUch : here was an
Ddent conduit, the site of which is now marked by a pump ; at the bottom of the
rell is a black marble image of St. Peter, and some marble steps. The southern
ctremity of this street was called Broken Croee: here, about the middle of last
SDtury, was the most ancient house in Westminster. Upon the east side of the street
us built JSer Mty'ettjf'e New Stationery Office^ in neat Italian style, in 1854^ upon
he site of the Westminster Mews. In Princtfe'eomrt, at the south end of the street^
ved the notorious politidan, John Wilkes, in 1788.
Qineen-^qnare is described at p. 751. In Queen-street was bom, in 1642, Jamee
yrrell (a grandson of Archbishop Ussher); he wrote a Sietory of England, 3 vols.
>lio, valuable for its exact references to the ancient chronicles.
Mocheeter-row is named trom the Bishops of Rochester, who were also Deans of
Westminster. Here are Emery Hill's Almshouses; and opponte are the Church of St.
tephen, and SchooU, built and endowed by the munificence of Miss Angela Burdott
ioQtts. (iStep.203.)
Sanctuary (the) of Westminster Abbey is described as the space by St. Margaret's
burchyard, between the old GkU^diouse S.W., and King-street N.E. The right of
mctoary— ^q protection to criminals and debtors from arrest — was retained by West-
linster after the Dissolution in 1540; and "sanctuary men" were allowed to use a
'hittle only at their meals, and compelled to wear a badge. The privilege of sanctuary
lused the houses within the precinct to let for high rents; but it was totally abolished
y James I. in 1628 : it is called by Fabyan, *' the Seyntwary before the Abbey."
tere were two cruciform churches, built one above the other, the lower a double cross ;
le upper, the Rev. Mr. Waloott thinks, for the debtors and inhabitants of the Broad
ad the Little Sanduariee; the lower for criminals. "They could not leave the
recinct without the Dean's licence* or between sunset and sunrise." In Little
wctuaiy was the T^hree Tuna Tavern, built upon part of the church vaults, which
irved as the inn-cellar. The tower of the church, rebuilt by Edward II., contained
u'ce bells, the ringing of which " sowered all the drinke in the town." The church
us demolished in 1750. Fifty years later was removed fVom Broad Sanctuary the
id market-house, built in 1568 ; and upon the nte was erected, in 1805, the present
uildhall, with a Doric vestibule, S. P. Cockerell architect. Here also are the Office
nd Central Sckoola qftke National Society s the WeetminHer Soapital, bmlt 1833.
he Sanctuary churches are described by Dr. Stukeley, who remembered their standing
irehaologia, i. p. 89). There were other sanctuaries in London ; but the Westminster
te alone retains its ancient name.
Here Jodgte TraiUiso {Ump, Richard II.) fled, bat wu dragged to Tybnm and banged. In 1441«
leanor Cobhun, Ducheee of Glonoeeter, sccueed of witcheraft and treaion, wm dented xeftige. In
^» Lord Scales, u he was eeeking isnetnuy here, was murdered on the Thames. Elizabeth
'oodvllle, qoeen of £dward IV^ and her family, eacaped tnm the Tower, and reglitered themeelTes
■anctuary women;** and here, "in great penary, ijcuiken of all Mends," the gare birth to Edward Y.
ore describee her sitting " alow on the mshea,'' in her grief. The Hcgleter of the Sanetoary, Goagh
«tet, was bought out of Sir Henry Spelman'e Collectton, by Wanley, the antiquary, tot Lord Wsj-
Mth, and is preierted in the library at Longleat.
826 0UBI08ITIJE8 OF LONDON.
The vacant groand was let, in 1821, to fpecnlators in wais to Tiew the
procession of George IV^ upon a raised platform, from Westminster Abbej to Wetf-
minster HalL In 1854 was biult, adjoining the west end of the Abbey, m hlodk <£
houses in the Medieval style, G. G. Soott, RJl^ ardutect ; the centre opening hesngtbe
entrance to Dean's-yard. Here is the same architect's pictoresqne Memorial to
the " Old Westminsters" who perished in the Crimean War.
JbikiU FiMs, between Fimlioo and the Thames, andently the manor of TcOe^
belonged to John Maunsel, chancellor, who, in 1256, entertained here Henry III. and
his court, at a vast feast in tents and payilions. The Normans called this distfiet ttf^
le champ, which is thought to have been clipped into ioiU le, and then oocrapted into
tofutU and Toi-lulL {Bardwell^ It oocun, however, in an andent lease as Tboit-hill
or Beaeon Field,* which Mr. Hudson Turner suggested to Mr. Cunningham as tbe
probable origin. The Bev. Mr. Waloott restricts it within the Sanctuary <^ the Abb^.
At the Tothill were decided wagers of battle and a^^eals by combat, Necromaner,
aoreery, and witchcraft were pmUished here ; and ** royal solemnities and goodly jcvsU
were held here/' In Culpepper's time the fields were famous for paralqr- ^ I>6^
ft battery and breastwork were here erected. Here were built the ** Five Honae^" or
**Seven Chimneys," as pest-houses for victims to the Plague; and in 1665 the dead
were buried " in the open Tuttle Fields." The ilelds are described as of great us^
pleasure, and recreation to the king^s scholars and neighbours; and in 1672 the parnh
made here a new Maie» whidi was " much frequented in summer time in fiur after-
noons." {Aubrey,) In Queen Anne's rdgn, here was in^lliam Well's bear-gardea,
npon the nte of Vincent-square. St. Edward's fiur was removed from St. Margaret i
diurchyard to Tothill Fields, 84 Hen. III., who granted the Abbot of Westminster
"leave to keepe a markette in the Tuthill every Munday, and a fiiire every yeare lor
three days ;" and Kdward III. gpranted a £ur of thirty-one days. Both &irB were sup-
pressed by James I. Her^ in 1651, the Tlrained Bands were drawn out ; and in the
same year. Heath's Chronicle records the Sootdi prisoners ''driven like a herd of swine
through Westminster to Tnthill Fidds, and there sold to several merdiants, and sent
to the Barbadoes." One of '•the Civil War Tracts of Lancashire," printed by the
Chetham Sodety, states there were « 4000 Scots, Highlands, or Redshanks,'* many
with their wives and bairns, of whom 1200 were buried in Tuttle I^dds. The fields neit
became a noted duel-ground : here, in 1711, Sir Cholmdey Dering, M.P., was killed
by the first shot of Mr. Richard Thomhill, who was tried for murder and acqiutte^
but found guilty of manslaughter, and was burnt in the hand. Here also was sa
andent Bridewell (see p. 704).
ToikiUratreet^ exten<yng from Broad Sanctuary to York-etreet» has lost most of iti
picturesque old houses. In Tothill-street lived the Bishop of Chester, 1488 ; William
Lord Orey of Wilton, <* the greatest soldier of the nobility," died 1563 ; Sir Geoi^
Carew, at Caron House, 1612 ; and Linodn House was the Office of the Beveb^ 1664
Southerner the dramatic poet, lived ten years at No. 56, then as now, an oilman's : it
bears the date 1671. Betterton, the actor, was bom in this street. In the reign of
Elizabeth, the houses on the north side had gardens extending to the Park ; and those
on the south to Orchard-street^ once the orchard-garden of the Abbey. Here^ in 17S9,
died, aged 97, Thomas Amory, who wrote the Memeira qf John JSuucie, Of the
Fleece public-house. No. 70, a token exists, date 1666. The old Cock publio-hooBe^
taken down in 1853, is. described at p. 453. TufUm-^ireet was built by Sir Ridisid
Tufton (d. 1631) : here was a cock-pit> which existed long after that in St. James's
Pftrk was deserted.
Victi}ria-4treety commenced by the Westminster Improvement Commiadon in 1845,
extends across the sites of the Almonry, Orchard-street^ Duck-lanei, New I^e-stree^
and part of Old Fye-street (named fitnn Sir Robert Fye, who redded here), to StmttOB-
ground, named from Stourton-house, the mandon of the Lords Dacre of the SouUl
Thence the new street crosses Artillery-place, through Fahner^s Village, on the north
dde of Westminster Bridewell, past Elliot's Brewery, to Shaftesbury-terraoe, Pimlioa
Victoria-street is above 1000 yards, or nearly five furlongs in length, and 80 feet wide :
* Others refer it to Toote HUl, thoini in Rooque's map (174^, Just at a bend in Uie Hane&nT-foi^
Imt now lost In the a4iBco<^t made groand
WESTMINSTEB HALL. 827
e honses are 82 feet in height ; Henry Ashton architect. The ornamentation of the
•ose-fiitrnts, worked in cement> is extremely artistic : the interiors are mostly arranged
flats^ aa in Edinburgh and F^ris. In the line of street are the three diorches of
. Mark, the Holy Trinity, and Christchurch ; and at the north-west rear is St.
idrew's Chnrch, in the Qeometrioal style ; the nave usles showing five gables on each
le, filled with large and lofty windows ; architect, G. G. Scott, B.A.
Vine-street denotes the site of a vineyard, probably that of the Abbey. In the
eraeer's book, 1566, is rated *' the vyne-garden" and ** myll," next to Bowling-alley ;
e vine-garden called " becaose, perhaps, vines anciently were there noorished, and
ne made." (Stow,) In Edward yi.'s time it was inclosed with boildings. Bawling-'
'eet and aUey denote the site of the green where the members of the convent played
bowls. Oj^Kwte BowUn^'oUey is a honse where the notorioos Colonel Blood died,
ag. 24^ 1680: npon the honse-firont was a shield with a coat of arms. (JTaleott,)
Wood-Hreet, described in 1720 as " very narrow, being old boarded hovels ready to
V' baa disappeared. Here lived John Carter, the dilig^t antiquary. At 18, North-
reet, lived Alston, the comedian, who dearly loved his art : " wherever Elliston walked,
t, or stood sUll, there was the theatre."«^C Lamb.
WooUtaple (the) wa^, in 1858, appointed for woghing all the wool bronght to
mdon. The Long Staple (upon liie site of Brtdge-stHet) conasted of a strong ronnd
tver and a water-gate, which was destroyed to make room for the western abutment
Westminster Bridge, in 1741. Here was St. Stephen's Hospital, founded by Henry
[II. in 1548, and removed in 1745, when eight almshouses were rebuilt in St. Anne's-
ae, inscribed ^ Woolstaple Pensioners, 1741." In 1628, in the overseers' books of
^ Margaret's, is rated in the Woolstaple, " Orlando Gibbons, yd."
Wbstmxvstbb Abbbt.— In 1867, a Parliamenteir return thowed that the Dean sad Chapter of
estminster devote to the maintenanoe of the fkbrio of the Abbey one-fifteenth pert of the whole
risible income of the capitolar body, together wiUi the tbe» received for monmnenta |^oedin the
tbey, and the pvoflta derived from tne nle of timber on the capitnlar estates. In the last six years
e fdnds thus oievoted to the lU>rlo averaged 3412^ a year. In the same six years the m<mey taken at
6 Abbmr for the admission of persons to view the BoyiJ tmnbs and private chapels averaged 130/U.
rear. This has beien applied first in payments to the High Constable and to the guides who show the
mbs and chapels, and fiiere has been an average annual surplus of 726L a year, which has bem
plied to ornamental improvements of Uie Abbey. The charge for viewing Uie tombs and chapels Is
. for each person. The transepts and the great nave of the Abbey are open free to the pabUo
day.
WssTMnrsTEB Abbey is described at pp. 117-140.
WE8TMINSTJER If ALL
A7AS originally added to the ancient Palace at Westminster by William Bufos, who
' Y held his first court herein, 1099. In 1894-9 Bichard II. had its walls heightened
7o feet, the windows altered, and a new timber roof constructed, from the design of
enry de Yeveley, who was master-mason to three successive kings, and to Westmin-
er Abbey. During the repairs of 1885 the work of the two kings (William II. and
ichard II.) was distinguishable, including a Norman arcade connecting the clerestory
indows. The exterior is of modem design, except the north porch and window,
hich, with the internal stone-work (except the south end), is one of our earliest sped-
ens of the Perpendicular style, and is thought to have been the work of William of
Tykebam. The original walls (chiefly rubble and grout-work) were then cased 1 foot
inches thick with stone^ flying buttresses were erected as abutments on the east and •
est sides, and the embattled flanking towers and porch of the north front added : the
>wers were restored 1819-22. The roof was originally covered with lead; for which,
1 account of its immense weighty slates were substituted. The lantern, of cast-iron, is
1 exact copy of the original one erected near the end of the 14th century : it isglaaed.
The interior dimensions of Westminster Hall are 289 feet by 68, and 42 fbet high,
he immense timber-framed roof is one of the finest existing examples of sdentifio con-
'ruction in carpentry ; its only bearing being at the extremities of the great ribs^
'hich abut against the side walls, and rest upon twenty-aix sculptured stone corbels.
Lt half this height the timber arches spring from the stone string-course, sculptured
rith the white hart oouchant under a tree^ and other devices of Bichard II. ; so that .
828 CXmiOSITIES OF LONDON,
tbe npper half of the height of the edifice ib entirely of Umher (oak), muivalled for i£3
aoearately moolded detaiL
A record in St. Michan't Charch, Terified bj Hanmer^s CknmicU, in the Ubnrj of Trinity CoOese,
Dabllttp rtates that the roof orer Weatminiter Hall was oonstracted with timber prmsored from the
lite of this chnreh; and damps of trees have been found daring recent excaTationa. The record
states : ** The fUre greene or commune, now called Ostomootowne-Rrcene, was all vrood, and bee that
diggeth at this daj to anv depth shall flnde the gronnde AiU of great rootes. From theooe, anno 10^
King William Bnftia, by license of If orchard, had that frame which made up the roofea of Westmiasar
Half, where no English spider wbbetk or hretdelh to ikit dagr—Proe. BoyallnttUuU Iriak ArekiU^
London, howerer, states the roof to be of British oak, queretu »e$$ifiora, which is so deficieat in gzaia
as not to be distingnishablei, at first sights from chestnnt.
The hammer-heaniB are iciilptared ¥dth angels bearing shields of the arms of Bichard IL
or Edward the Confessor, which show the excellence that scolpture in wood had
attained in England so early as the foorteenth century. From the roof were formerly
bang '* guidons, ooloors and standards, ensigns and trophies of victory ;*' in Hattoo's
time (1708), 138 colomrs and 84 standards, from the battles of Naseby ami Worcester,
Preston and Dnnbar, and Blenheim : Hatton describes foarteen, with their mottoes
Englished. The roof was thoroughly repaired in 1820-21, when forty loads of oak,
from old ships broken up in Portsmouth Dockyard, were used in renewing decayed
parts, and completing the portion at the north end, where it had been left unfinished ;
the roof was also greatly strengthened by tension-rods added to the principals in 185L.
Abutting on the southern end was the Galilee, finished by Edward III., and sM^apted
by Richard II. with a flight of steps to the approach from the Great Hall to the Chmpel
of St. Stephen and the principal chambers of the Palace. Above the nde line of windows
are dormers (added in 1820-21), which improve -the chiaroscuro ; and above are aper-
tures, opened in 1843, to aid the efiect of an Exhibition of Cartoons. The Hall now
forms the vestibule to the new Houses of Parliament; which Sir Charles Barry
effected by removing the large window from the south end to form an archway to Si.
Stephen's Porch, wherein he fixed the Hall window, with an additional transom and
row of lights. (See St. Stephen's Porch, p. 662.)
The statues by John Thomas, flanking the archway in the Hall, are :
H s ej
»
t4
Sir Charles Barry contemplated raising the roof fourteen feet, closing the doois of
the Law Courts, and decorating the walls with frescoes, &c. The heraldic decorations
of the corbels and string-course are described by Mr. WiUement in the Collectam^
Topogr, et Qen. vol. iii. p. 55 ; and the architectural discoveries in 1835 are detailed
by Mr. Sydney Smirke in Archaologia, vols, xxvi and xxvii.
The floor of the Hall, from its low level, was occasonally flooded by the Thames
Holinshed mentions two floods in the reign of Henry III., in 1237, when he says boafii
might have been rowed up and down ; and in 1242, when no one could get into tbe
H^ except they were set on horseback. He records another, 1555, when the Hall
was flooded " unto the stairfoot, going to the Chancerie and King's Bench, so that
when tbe Lord Maior of London should come to present the Sheriffii to the Barons
of the Exchequer, all Westminster Hall was foil of water." Also, in 1579, when tbe
water rose so high in the Hall " that, after the fall thereof, some fishes were finind
there to remain." — Stow, These visitations were repeated in the last centory, is
1735 and 1791, and to some extent even so lately as 1841.
The kings held their courts, or, as it was called, " wore their crowns," at the tima
of tbe Conquest^ and long after, but not in Westminster Hall until the reign of
Henry II. By a clause in Magna Charts, 15th June, 1215, it was declared ths£
** Common Pleas shall not follow the Court, but shall be held in some certain pkoe,'
doubtless Westminster Hall; and when the Aula Bogia was abolished, the present
arrangement of the Courts of Chancery, King's Bench, and Exchequer, as well as tb«
Common Pleas, was established, with separate Judges appointed to preside over eadi
Court. (Foee.)
WESTMINSTER HALL. 829
" In the reign of Charles L, the King't Seirants, by his M«jestie't fpedal order, went to Weet-
oinster Hall in Tenn-timc, to inrite gentlemen to eat of the King's Acates or Viands ; and in Parlia-
aent-time, to invite the Parliament men thereunto."— Delaone's Anglim MetropoU*, 1680.
" The Hall itself was also occasionally used as a high court of criminal justice for the
olemn trials before the peers of g^eat delinquents* impeached by the House of Com- '
nons. One of the earliest, of which there is a particular account, is that against
Michael de la Pole; Earl of Suffolk, Chief Justice Tresilian, and others, in the reign of
Richard II., which king himself was deposed by the Parliament in this same Hall. In
mbseqaent times these trials often took place before commissioners appointed from
imon^ the peers, assisted by some of the judges and other commoners. Sir Thomas
More and Bishop Fisher were tried in this manner ; but it is doubtful whether the
Great Hall was used on these occasions, or only the Courfc of King's Bench. Queen
Anne Boleyn's trial took place in the hall on a ' scaffold ' there erected. There is a
print of 'Westminster Hall as it was prepared for the trial of the Earl of Strafford in
1640, in which the Queen is portrayed as looking out of her cupboard upon a scene
in winch her royal consort was a few years after to appear as a condenmed prisoner."-^
W, Fo99 : Paper read to the Arch<jN>logical Iiutitute, 1866.
MemorabU TriaU in Wntmiiufer Sallr-iStiS, Sir William Wallace condemned for treason (in
Bafhs'8 Hail); 1417. Sir John Oldcastle the Wickliffite; 1522, Stafford, Duke of Buckingham, for
treasou ; 1636, Sir Thomas More arraigned here ; 1561, the Protector Somerset brought to trial, with
*' bills, halberts, and pole-axes attending him," Uie clamonr of the people ''heard to the Long Acre
hC7ond Charing Crosae;" 1554, Sir Thomas Wyat; 1567, Lord Stourton, for murder: 1000, Robert
Bevereox, Earl of Esaex ; 1006, Gay Fawkea and hia fellow-conspirators ; 1016, the prodigate £arl and
Countera of Somenet, ibr the murder of Sir Thomas Overbury; 1640 (18 days' trial), Wentworth, Earl
of Straffbrd, before Charles I. and his qneen; 1648, King Charles I. (in 1661, the Act for the King's
Tri^ was bnmed by the common hangman iu the Hall while the court was sitting) ; 1688, the ScTcn
Bishops; 1710, Dr. Sachererell; 1716, Viscoont Kenmore and the Earl of Denrentwater: 1740-47, the
rebel Lords Kilmarnock, Balmerino, and Lorat ; 1760, Earl Ferrers, for murder: 1776, the Duchess of
KingBton, for bigamy ; 1788 to 1795, Warren Hastings's seren years' trial ; 1806, Lord Melville.
JParliaments assembled in this Hall as early as 1248 (33 Henry III.) and 1265
(49 Henry III.), tbe latter being the first representation of the people in its present
fcmn.
By a cnrions conjunction, one and the same person in the early reigns held the two
offices of Warden of the Ptilaoe of Westminster and Warden of the Fleet Prison. Two
records, of the 12th and 24th Edward III., show that there were then stalls for mer-
cliandize in, and stables under, Westminster Hall ; and that the holder of those offices
was allowed to take fi>r his profit 8(i. per annum for each stall and stable, and 4d. for
each stall only. By a *' rental " of 38 Henry VI., the rents of shops varied from 2r.
to 3«. 4d, a term; and the "goers in the Halle," as they were caUed,.were charg^
from 4d. to 12d, for the same period. The shops or stalls (resembling those in Exeter
Change) are shown in the picture by Gravelot, painted in the reign of George II.
** Banged along the left side, as Ton enter, are shops of booksellers, mathemaUeal instrument makers,
haberdashers, and: sempstresses. At the further end of the Hall are the two Courts of King's Bench
on the left, and of the Chancery on the right, divided by a flight of steps whidi led to the entrances of
both. In the print these Courts are inclosed to a certain height but not coTCred, so that the noise in
the Hall, and the flirtations of the barristers and attorneys with the semnstressee, must hsTe occa-
aionallT disturbed the arguments of the counsel, and disarranged the granty of the Judges. On the
right side is the same array of shops, except where it is interrupted by the Court of Common Pleas,
which prqiects into the Hall, and is similarly inclosed and uncovered. On both sides of the Hall, above
the shops and the Court of Common Pleas, was a continuous display of banners, whidi at the date of
the picture were probably those token at the battle of Blenheim, and the other victories of Marlborough.
The Court of Common Pleas was subsequently removed to the outside of the HalL and the indosnre of
tibe two other Courts was completed and cvried up to the rooC and thus divided from the exterior
noise and racket. Counters and stalls for books Tat one time sold by poor scholars of Westminster
between school-hours), as well Is other merchandize, were to be seen here in term-time, and during
the session of Psrllament, even in the beginning of the rdgn of George III. The Courts of Chancery
and Kixig's Bench are removed, with the other courts, to more convenient sites on the western exterior
of the Hall, with entrances into it Thus, the edifice is now little more than a magnificent vestibule to
them and to the two Houses of Parliament, and a place of congregation for lawyers and their clients
when attending the Courts during term time."'-lir. Jbw, iU mtpiu.
Archbishop Land, in his Diary, records that on Sunday, February 20, 1630-1, the
Hall was found on fire, " by the burning of the little shops or stalls kept therein. It
was soon extinguished, and the damage quickly repaired." In the Great Fire of 183^
by which the Parliament Houses were destroyed, the noble hall was saved by the
&vourable direction of the wind. At the Great Fire of 1666, the Hall was filled with
" the people's goods," for safety.
830 0UBI08ITIE8 OF LONDON.
After great part of the Falaoe was bnmt in 1512, only the Great Hall waa kept *
repair; "and it wrvetb, at before it did, for feasts of coronatioTiB» arraignmeiiis i
great persons charged with treasons, keeping of the courts of jnatioe, Ac" (&oc.)
Hither came 411 of the rioters of Evil May-day, 1517, eadi with a halter about ^
neck, crying to the king apon his throne for mercy ; when " the general pardoo hcsf
prooonnced, all the prisoners showted at once, and cast their halters toirards the ra/
oTtheHaU." (8iow.)
Here Cromwell was inaugurated Lord Protector, 26th June, 1657, upon an elerai^:
platform at the south end of the Hall, in the andent coronation-chur, " under a priD:«^
like canopy of states" with the Bible, sword, and soeptre of the ComnKUiwealth be&re
him : the Protector entering the Hall, with the Lord Mayor bearing Hie Citf s«o?j
before him. On May 8th, 1660, King Charles XL was proclaimed at <* WestmioiUr
Hall Qate." Upon the south gable were set up the heads of Cromwel], Ireton, «::£
Bradshaw : Cromwell's hesd remained 20 years.
"Abnttfaw on the w«t side of WesfaniBster HsD, and in part benettfa it, wen "eeitn pba
AwrignstiMl Wiil, PmntOTy, and Fteadiae, namea that aeem to indicate that th^ were aporofviated. h
two of them oertaimy were, to the confinement of deUnqaenta, aocordbiff to the wied denitm cC
Kuiihment for their reapeetiTe olbnoea. WeaeefkomtheuluainationaafuieGovirtalatdly pablebai
the aiMh Tolmne of the ArdMoloffia, which are attribated to the reign of Henry YL, that al tbe hm
of the three Coorta of Klng'a Beneli^ Common Pleas, and Ezcheqoer, oertain primeEB are leuraaeate-A
and their jdaee of incarceration might probably be in one or the other or theoe cells. Some hsn
thought that these extraordinary namea were sonested by the titlea of the three narts of Daett'i
Dipima Cemutdia ; bat at least one of the names occmra in the reign of Henry UL, before Das
was bom. In the original aocoonta of the expenaee in that rein, ocean : * Door of HeD, in the
sheqoer/ This ia iollowed by another, to which the fixrmer probaUy applies: * Hooae called firih
ler the
under the Exchcqoer.' A third ^ace named in the list may perhapa be the aame which alto'vardi
went 1^ the name of Paradlae or Hearen t ' Le Oodeahova^ in the receipt of the BxchegofT.* Wkat-
erer were the oaea to which these places were orijinally applied, the coatody of them was made i
sonree of emohtmen^ snd wss nanted to the 'aqurea of the king's body,' and other ^Tooritea.*—
^9p9r bjf Mr, IbM, ui nie, abr%dg^.
Hell, Purgatory, and Paradise* and another building called ** Heayen/' were sobee-
quently conyerted from cells of confinement into taverns, whidi were modi frequented
hy lawyers' derks. In Ben Jonson's ^l^cAemMf, Dapper is forlndden to "break his
ikst in Heaoem and Hell**
** False Hesren st the end o' th* HalL"— AuKftroc.
Pepys reoofds dining at Heaven, and spending the evening in one of these tavens witli
Lock and Puroell, and hearing Lock's new canon, Domtae saZoasi foe JZe^eaa. *■ The
prison-keys of Purgatory, attached to a leather girdle, are still preserved." (Walootc's
Wewimiiuier, p. 221.) Here were kept the "duckmg-stools," with which the bur.
gesses of Westminster (by statute 27 Elizabeth) were empowered to punish oGmsMB
scolds, &c. Heaven and Purgatory were taken down about 1741, and Hell about
1793.
For the preparation of the Coronation banquets, the courti^'when within the Hall,
were removed, and the shops and stalls board^ over. A petition of the shopkeepers
m the reign of (George I. prays that, as their shops are boarded up for the eeremony of
the Coronation, the leads and the outades of the windows of the west fide of the Hall
may be granted for thdr use and advantage. Strype describes^ at the upper end of
the Hall, a long marble stone, 12 feet in length and three feet in breadth; also s
marble chair, where the Kings of England formerly sat at their Coronation dinnen^
and at other solemn times the Lord Chancellor; but not to be seen, being built over by
the two Courts of Chancery and King's Bench.
Edward I. held here his Coronation feast, for whidi the Hall was whitewashed.
At the Coronation feast of Richard II. (July 16, 1377), Sir John Bymoek, as
successor of the Marmions, and in right of his wife, Margaret de Ludlow, claSming the
privilege by his tenure of the manor of Scrivelsby, in Lincolnshire, having chosen the
best charger save one in the king's stables, and the best suit of armour save one in the
royal armoury, rode in, armed to the teeth, and challenged, as the king's chsmpion, sll
opposers of the young monarch's title to the crown ; this picturesque ceremony was
last performed at the coronation of George IV.
Haydon, the historical pafaiter, deaciibea the Coronation Festival of George IV. {AmioUogrw^n^
vol ii.), whkh he witnessed flrom the Chamberlain'a box : ** The Hall doota were opened, and thf
WEITJBOHAPEL. 831
>wer-ffirls entered, itrewioff flowers. The distant trompets and shouts of the people, the slow xnaieh.
Ml at last the appearance of the King, crowned and under a golden canopy, ana Um uoiTersal burst of
le aaaembly at seeing him. slTeeted ereiybodT. ..... After the banquet was over came the most
QpoeiDff acene of all, the championship. Wellinffton, in his ooronet» walked down Uie Hall, cheered
f the omcers of the Guards. He shonly returned mounted, with Lords Anglesea end Howsrd. Ther
>de (n^oelhlly to the Ibot of the throne, and then baekea out. The Hall doors opened again ; and
stside, in twilight^ a man in dark-shadowed armour appeared against the shining skT. He then
lOTed, passed into darknees under the arch, and suddenly Wellington, Howard, and the champion
k>od in fbll view, with doors closed behind Uiem. This was oertatnW the finest sight of Uie day.
he herald then read the challenge i the glore was thrown down. Th^ all Uien proceeded to the
Irene."
The ooronation of Qeorge IV., in the Abboy, Is described at p. 133 ; and the oere-
nony and the banquet in the admirable letter by Sir Walter Soott. The bill of fare of
he banquet in the Hall ia printed in Mr. Kirwan's very interesting Host amd
Tuewi, and is as follows :-—
Soi DwAes.— 160 tureens of soup; 80 of turtle; 40 of zice ; 40 of TermloeUl; 80 dishes of turbot;
iO of trout ; 40 of salmon ; 80 dishes of venison ; 40 of roast beef; S barons of beef; 40 dishes of mutton
Jid veal ; 180 dishes of vegetables ; 490 sauce boats ; 240 lobsters ; 120 of butter ; 120 of minU—OM
Oiahe».^eo of braised bam : 80 of savoury pica; 80 of geeee, d la dambt, two in each dish ; 80 of
avoury oakes; 80 of braised beef: 80 of braised capons, two in each dish; 1190 side dishes; 820 of
Dounted pastry; 400 of jellies and creams; 80 of Icmters; 80 of ersy-fish; 161 of roast fowls ; 80 of
louse lamb.
Total QMMlttiM.— Beef; 7448 lbs.; Teal, 7133 lbs.; mutton. 2474 Iba.; house lamb. 20 <iuarter«;
28 of dittos 20; lamb, 6 saddles; grass lamb, 65 quarters; lamb sweetbreads, 160; cow-heels, 888;
ves' feet, 400; suet, 260 lbs.; geese, 160; pulleCs and capons, 720; chickens, 1610; finrls for slock.
&aO; bacon, 1790 lbs. ; Urd, 660 lbs. ; butter, 012 lbs. ; eftgs, 8400.
Tk* IFuMs.— Champagne, 100 doi. ; Burgundy, 20 doie. ; claret, more than 800 doi. ; hock, 60 dn. |
Moselle, 60 doi. ; Madeira, 60 dos. ; sheny and port, about 360 dos. ; iced punch, 100 gallons.
i>cfMre.— The glut of flruit was unprecedented : a sentleman of liambeth cut 60 ripe pine>apples on
the occasion ; and many hundreds of pineiL remarkable for else and flavour, were sent from all parts of
tbe country; one tnm Lord Gawdors wetjghed 10 lbs., and formed part of the royal desMrt. The
expenses of the above Banquet and the Coronation together amonntM to more than 268,000<. The
Coronation (crowning only— no banquet) of William 1 v. did not cost 60,000/.
Besides tne Coronation Banquets, we have record of many others from the earliest time. On Kew
Year's Day, 1230. Kins Henry the Third feasted 6000 poor men, women, snd children. In 1241 the
same King sumi^uonsTy eotertrined there the Pope's Legate and Us nobility; and again in 1243 ho
eelebrated there the nuptials of his brother, Richard, Earl of Cornwall, with a banquet, at which it is
said there were no less than 80,000 dishes, though ivhere room was (bund for them it is dilBoult to
imagine. When the repairs of the Hall were completed in 1390, King Richard the Seoond is recorded
to have plentifhUy entertained 10,000 in it : it ia cautiously noted, ''in other rooms of the palace f
tat it is clear that the gnesta would not otherwise have had dbow-^oom. Fid>yan relates in his
G^ronieU that Henrv theSeventh, In the ninth year of his reign, kept a royal ftast there; and the same
King used the Hall for certain entertainmenta under the name of" disguiqmgs," which were exhibited
to the people at Christmas; and we have the following proof that they were provided or aaaisted by
the Oovemment. An entrv oocura in tl)e Issue Boll of a payment of 282. 3«. 6|4. (a large sum in those
days) to Ridiard Doland, '* for providing certain spectacles or theatres, commonly called scaflblds,**
for these performances.
Westminster Hall is called the Oreai SaU, to distinflfuish it firom the IMile at
Letter Hall, the House of Commons after the fire of 1834. The Great Hall is err>
neonsly stated to be the widest in Europe without any intermediate support^ fbr
there are two roofs in Italy which surpass it. The next largest ancient apartment in
England is the dormitory attached to the great monastery of Durham.
In the hall have been found, in a crevice of the masonry of the old walls, the leather
sheath of a knife^ stamped with flenrs-de-Us and with lions passant, together with a
quantity of bones, &c., remnants of the royal feasts held in the hall, and which had
probnbly, together witii the sheath, been dragged into the hdes and crevices by rata
and mice.
JTSITECSAPSL,
** A YERT extraordinary spacious street, between Whitechapel Bars (to which the
A freedom reaches) W., and the road to Mile<end E." (Satton, 1708). It was,
until the construction of the Eastern Counties Railway, the great Essex road : hence
its numerous inns, some with old gallerlcd yards. Upon the south side^ west end,
among the butchers* shops, is No. 76, a picturesque house-front, bearing the Prince of
Wale!^! feathers and H. S. (Henry Stuart), the arms of Westminster, the fleur-de-lis
of France, and the thistle of Scotland. On the north ude was a prison for debtors, in
the manor of Stepney, under the sum of St., of which there is in the Beaufby Colleo-
tion a Token, 1656 j also a Whiteohi^l pawnbroker's Token, thought to be unique
Pefoe liTed here in safety during the Great Plague year j and he describes the richer sort
832 CURIOSITIES OF LOIWON.
of people thronging oot of town from the City by this road, with their families and ser-
vants. Wbitecbapel has been samtarily impraYod by the fomaoea of the fkctoriei ooq.
■oming their own smoke. In Wentworth-street are the Model Satks and WaA^ktrnfti,
esUblifthed 1845. St. Mary's Ckurch, Wliitecbapel, u described at p. 14a Hen
was the offenaiye altar-piece, punted by W. Fellowes, in which Jndas the trai&r
greatly resembled Dean Kennet (see the print in the Society of Antiqtiaries' Ubnrj) :
the picture, now in St. Albans Abbey-chorch, is attributed to Sir James TliamliilL
In Colcbester-street, Leman-street, in 1854, was bornt the house Xo. 1, bmlt 1667,
and noted as the rendezvoos of Claude Duval, the highwayman. Near the lower esd
of WhitechapeUlane was a Roman cemetery, in whidi was found, in 177^ a ntOKiii-
mental stone inscribed to a soldier of the 24th legion. In 1854^ there was living in
the Whitechapel-road a corn-dealer aged 107, active in business as a man cff 60. At
No. 267, Whitechapel-road, is the Bell-foundry of Chas. and Qeo. Hears, vrbere hare
been cast many thousands of single bells : they have often 80 tons of molten metal in
their furnaces. Here were cast, in 18S5, " the New Great Tom of Lincoln," 5 toes
8 cwt ; the Great Bell of Montreal, 13 tons 10 cwt.; Great Peter of York, 11 toss;
the bells of the New Royal Exchange, &c. And here was re-csst the Great Bell for
Westminster dock, ** St. Stephen," described at p. 4f4u
WSITUFRIARS,
rE streets, lanes, and alleys between Water-lane (now Whttefriars-street) and the
Temple^ and Fleet-street and the Thames ; formerly the site of the boose and
gardens of a convent of Carmelites, or White FriarB, founded by Sir Richard Gray in
1241, upon ground given by King Edward I. The church was rebuilt bj Hugh
Courtenay, Earl of Devon, about 1850 ; and Robert Marshall, Bishop of Herefozd,
about 1420, added the steeple, as shown in the Sutherland View of London, 1543-
Stow gives a long list of benefactors and nobles buried in the church. At the Befor-
nation, the chapter-bouse was given by %enry VIII. to his pbysidan. Dr. Butta. In
the next r«gn, the church, with its stately tombs, was demolished ; and in its place
were *' many ftur houses built, lodgings for noblemen and others" (8tov). Here lived
Sir John Cheke^ Tutor and Secretary of State to Edward VI. The hall or refectory
of the diswlved monastery was used as the Whitefriars Theatre. The precinct had
long possessed the privileges of Sanctuary, which were confirmed by charter of James L
in 1608 ; hence it became the asylum of characterless debtors, dtieats, and gambiers,
here protected from arrest : it acquired the cant name of " Alsatia," and is the scene
of ShadweU's Spare of Meatia, the characters of which " dare not stir ont of White-
fryers :" one of its cant-named portions, Lombard-Hreet (its " lewd women* were
complained of by the Friars in the r^g^ of Ei'tward III.), exists to this day ; as does
Lombard^treet in the Sonthwark Mint. Poets and players were attrarted to White-
friars by the contiguous theatre in Dorset Gardens: dancing-masters and fencing-
masters flocked here ; and here, in the reAga of James I., Turner the fencing-master
was araasunated by two ruffians hired by Lord Sanquhar, whose ^e Turner had put out
during a fencing lesson several years before, but he had been forgiven the accident.
The two assassins were hanged opposite Whitefriars gates in Fleet-street ; and Lord
Sanquhar was hanged in Old Palace-yard. In the Friary-house, Selden lived with
Elizabeth, Countess-dowager of Kent, who bequeathed him the mannon : he died here,
Nov. 30, 1654, and was buried in the Temple Church. The finest edition of Selden*s
works, by Wilkins, 8 vols, folio, was printed in Whitefriars by William Bowyer, father
and son ; their printing-office was the Oeorge Tavern^ Dog^ell-conrt, a scene in Sbad-
well's Sqyure of Altaiia ; in this house, William Bowyer, jun., was bom in 1699.
The premises are now the printing-office of Bradbury, Evans, and Co., who main-
tun the excellence of their piedecessors. Few other traces of old Whitefriars remain.
Sanging-Sword'AUetf, east of Water-lane, is named from " a house called the Hang-
ing Sword," mentioned by Stow. In Temple-lane are the WhUrfriare Olaee^tcorks,
esteblished cire. 1700.
The White Friars spared no cost to procure books for their monastery : no book was
to be sold, but they had their emissaries provided with mon^ to huy iU
WHITEHALL. 833
WHTTSHALL,
IHAT part of Waitmiiister which extends from near Charing Cross to Canon-row,
and finom the Thames to St. James's Park, was the site of the royal Palace of
hitehall from 1530 to 1697. It was formerly called Yorh'plaoe, from having heen
9 town residence of the Archhishops of York : one of whom, Walter de Grey,
Tchased it in 1248 from the Convent of BUck Friars of Holhom, to which it had
en bequeathed by Hubert de Burgh, the Justiciary of England, and famous minister
Henry III., who had bought the inheritance from the monks of Westminster for
O marks of silver. The property was conveyed by Walter de Grey to his snocesson
the aee of York. Cardinal Wolsey was the last Archbishop of York by whom the
ilace was inhalnted: he built extensively, a^d "lived a long season" here, in
mptoous state :
** Where frnitftd Thames nlotes the letmM ihore
Wm this grave prelate and the mnset plac'd.
And by those waves he huUd^d had before
A roral house with leamM moeee rrac'dL
But b7 his death imperfect and de&o'd.'^
Storer'e MHrieal Sitiorg <if Wohef, 1590.
pon the &11 of Wolsey, in 1529, York Phu» was taken from hun by Henry VIII.,
id the broken-hearted prelate left in his barge on the Thames for Esher. The name
* the palace was then changed to White Hall,* possibly from some new buildings
ftving been constructed of white stone, at a time when bricks and timber were
enerally used,^
" Ton most no more call it York Place— that is past :
For since the Cardinal fell, that tiUe^s loet;
Tie now the King's, and caU'd White HaU."
Shakspeare's Zing Renrg VJII., act iv. se. 1.
lere Henry and Anne Boleyn were married in a garret of the palace, says Lingard ;
»tow says^ in a doset. Henry built a noble stone gallery, from which, in 1639, he
cviewed 15,000 armed citizens : from this gallery also the court and nobility witnessed
he jousts and tournaments in the Tilt-yard, now the parade-ground of the Hone
juards. The King "most sumptuously and curiously builded many beautiful, costly,
ind pleasant lodgings, buildings, and mansions/' and added a tennis-court, bowling-
lUeys, and a oock-pt, ** for his pastime and solace."
Whitehall was seven years in building ; and in 1536 (the old palace of Edward the
I^onfesnr having been in utter ruin and decay since the fire in 1512), it was enacted
by Parltsment that all the ground, mansion and buildings, the park, and the entire
ipaoe between Charing Cross and the Sanctoary at Westminster, ftom the Thames on
:he east side to the park-wall westward, should be cleared and called the King's Palace
>f Westminster. Here Henry VIII. assembled many pictures, which afterwards
became the nndeos of the splencUd collection of Charles I. Henry made munificent
proposals to Raphael and Titian, and the former painted for him a " St. George." The
King also took into his service Hans Holliein, and gave him apartments at Whitehall,
with a pension, besides paying him for his pictures. Holbdn built, opposite the
entrance to the Tilt-yard, a magnificent Gate-house^ of small squared stones and flint
boulder, glased and tessellated : on each front were four terra-ootta busts, naturally
ooloored, and gilt. This* gate was removed in 1750, when it was begged by William
Bake of Comberland, son of George II., with the intention of rebuilding it in the
Great Park at Windsor ; tbe stones were numbered for this purpose, which was never
fulfilled. Three of the busts, Henry VII. and VIII. and Bishop Fisher, are now at
Hatfield Priory, Essex. The Gate-bouse was used as a State-paper Office many years
before its removal, and was known as the Cockpt Gate. At Whitehall, on December
30, 1546, Henry ngned his will, and on January 28 expired. Edward VI. held a
Parliament at Whitehall :
lUS. "And this yere thefhnt dw of (Haicih wss the) Mriament, and kspte wythin the kynges
psilyi at Wartmyster, Whythalla"— Okroii. Orep Fiian Lemd.
* The ** White HaU" was a name not nnfreqaently riven 1^ our ancestors to the UtHre halls of
their hibiUtkms : there was a White Hall at Kenilworth : aad the HaU formeriy the Hoose of Lords
was the Whits HsU of ths rojal Palaoe of Westminster, snd Is so caUed by Stow.
834 CURIOSITIES OF LONDON.
Bisbop Lfttimer preached before the Court in the Privy Garden, the King atting il
one of the pakce windows. Qaeen llary went from Whitehall hj water to hercvo-
nation at Wcitniinster, Elizabeth bearing the crown before her. WfaitdnD pahn
was attackird by Sir Thomas Wyafs rebds, who " shotte divers arrowcs into tbe
oonrte, the gate beying open ;" and looking oot over the gate^ tbe Qoeen pardoosd tbe
Kent men, with halters abont their ned^ From the palace the PHncen ^K">«^
was taken captive to tbe Tower on I\ilm Sunday, 1564. At Wlutdia]], November II,
1666, died Gardiner, Bishop of Winchester and Lord Chancellor of England, at mid-
night, exclaiming : " I have sinned, I have not wept with Peter." Hentzner deKrihes»
in 1698, Elizabeth's library of Greek, Latin, Italian, and French books; a little ace,
in her own handwriting, addressed to her father ; and a book of prayen written I?
ElisHbeth in five languages^ with her own miniature and that of her suitor, the Df£
d'Anjou. In her 67th year, *' she appoints a Frenchman to doe featea upon m rope a
the conduit conrt. To-morrow she hath commanded the bear, the bull, and the ift
to be bayted in the tilt-yard. Upon Wednesdsy she will have solemn dawneh^.*
(Sowland White.) Elizabeth revived the pageants and joustings at Whitehall ; aod
here the bnilt " the Fortress or Castell of perfect Beantie," a large wooden banqoEt-
ing-bonie on the north-west side of the palace. In 1661 Sacfcrille and Kottoc's
tragedy of Ferrex and Forrex was acted here by gentlemen of the Inner Tempie.
In the great gallery, Elizabeth received the Speaker and Commons Hoose, when tbej
came " to move her grace to marriage." On March 24^ 1603, " then deceased," fits
Bichmond, '* the Queen was brought by water to WhitehalL"
In the Orchard of Whitehall the Lords in Council met; and in the Gardeo,
James I. knighted 800 or 400 judges^ seijeants, doctors-at^law, &c Here the Lord
Monteagle imparted to the Earl of Salisbury the warning letter of the Gunpowder
Plot; Guy Fawkes was examined in the King's bedchambCT, and carried hence to tbe
Tower. In 1617, when James visited Scotland, Lord Keeper Bacon resided at White-
hall. James I., in 1608, had "the old, rotten, dight-boOded Banqueting Hoose*
removed, and next year rebuilt ; but it was destroyed by fire in 1619. In this reien
were produced many "most glorious masques^ by Inigo Jones and Ben Jonsoa; acd
Inigo designed a new palace^ the drawings for which are preserved in WoroeBter Col-
lege Ozftnd.
In msgnltodep Inlj^ Jones't plan would have exoeeded that of tbe palace of Diodetian. and ircoM
bave covered nearly 24 acres. It was to baye oonristed of Kven oonrta, to bave extended 874 feet
fttmtinff tbe Tbamea, and tbe aame lengtb along tbe foot of St. Jamea'a Parte : preaentiDg one freet
to Cbannff Croea, of 1200 feet long; and anotber, tbe principal, of afanilar dinexiikms towardi West-
minster Abbey. {Sm Foudrinlers large print.) A more distinct idea nuij be formed of this eztat
by comparing it witb that of otber palaces : tbns, Hampton Coott coven 8 or • acrea^ St. James's i
Bockingbam 2i {
Of Jones's magnificent design, only the BamqueHng^honuB was oompleted. Charki L
oommissioned Rubens to punt the ceiling, and by his agency obtained tbe GsrtcKiis cf
BaphaeL In the Cabinet-room of the palace, built also by Inigo Jones, finmting west-
vrard to Privy Garden, Charles assembled pictures Of almost incslcolaUe value ; the
royal colledaon containing 460 paintings, including 28 by Titian, U by Oone^ffo, 16
by Julio Romano, 9 by Raphael, 4 by Quido^ and 7 by Psrmegiano. Upon the CSril
War breaking out, Whitehall was seized by the PlBrliament» who^ in 1646, had " tli6
boarded masque-house" pulled down, sold great part of the puntings and statues^ and
burnt the " superstitiotts pictures." Here, Jan. 80, 1649, in the Cabinet-room Charles
last prayed ; in the Horn-chamber he was delivered to the officers^ and tfaenoe led oat
to execution upon a scaflbld in front of the Banqueting-hoiise.
The King was taken on the first moniing of bis trial, Jan. 20, 1640. in a aedannsbair, fttnn WbitdiaD
to Cotton HoQse^ where be slept pending bis trial in Weittminster Hall ; after wbit b tbe Idng ntnnied
to IVhitefaall ; but on tbe night before bis exeention be slept at Bt. Jamea'a. On Jan. SO be was "nwct
barbaronsly mnrthered at bis own door, about two o'clock m tbe afternoon.** (Rittor. Omide, 8d iiB&,
1688.) Lord Leicester and Dogdale state that Charles was beheaded at Wbitenall gate. Tbe seaffoKl
was erected in front of the Banqneting-bonse, fai tbe sti^t now Whitehall ; and Herbert atatas tbat ii»
king was led ont by "a paasaae broken throngh the wall," on to tbe aeavold ; tat Ludlow states that
it was out of a window, aocormng to Yotoe, of a small building north of the Banqoeting-boaae, whence
tbe king stepped upon tbe seaflold. A picture of tbe sad scene, painted by Weesop, in tbe manii^ of
Vandyke, shows the platform, extending only in length, before two of tbe windows, to tbe eoBUMfX^
ment of the third casement Weesop visited England from Holland in 1641, and quitted Engiaod in
1660, saying "he would nerar reside in a coontir where they cut off their king's head, and wen uA
WHITEHALL. 835
■bamed of tiM Mtion.*'— <Am iMliiftil inqvixiM upon the Identity of the place of execution, in
roU9 amd qurim, 8rd i. ill. 213, 292 ; ir. 196.
CromweB* by vote of Parliament in 1650, had '* the use of the lodging called the
!ocki»t^ of the Spring Garden, and St. James's Honse^ and the command of St. James's
^k," Ibr some time before he assumed the supreme power. To Whitehall, in 1658,
Lpril SOth, he retoraed ¥nth the keys in his pocket, after dissolving the Long Parlia-
oent, which be sabseqnently explained to the Little or Barebones Parliament assembled
a. the Coondl-chamber of Whitehall. Here the Parliament desired Cromwell to
' magnify himself with the title of King;" here Milton was Cromwell's Latin Secre*
ary, Andrew Manrell his fteqnent gnest, with Waller his fnend and kinsman, and
ometimea the youthful Dryden. Cromwell repurchased the Cartoons and many other
nctures, and in 1656 Evelyn found the palace " very glorious and well-fnmished."
Sere Cromwell expired, Sept. 8, 1658, "the double day of victory and death."
Eticbard Cromwell resided here. Charles II., at tbe Restoration, came in grand pro-
wssion of seven hours from the City to Whitehall. To the Lords Commia^ners of the
iVcamxry Charles asngned the Cockpit ; and in this locality their chambers have ever
nnce remained. Charles collected by proclamation the plate, hangings, and paintings^
ivhich had been pillaged from the pcdaoe : he also built a stone gallery to flank Privy
harden, and below it suites of apartments fbr his " Beauties." Evelyn describes the
Duchess of Portsmouth's apartment, ** twice or thrice pulled down and rebuilt to satisQr
ber prodigal and expensive pleasures ;" ite French tapestry, " Japan calnnets, screens^
pendale docks, great vases of wrought plate, table-stands, chimney-furniture, sconces,
bmnches, brasenas, &c., all of massive silver, and out of number." Evelyn also sketches
a Sunday evening in the palace :
"The kfaiff eittinff and toying with his concubines, Portsmouth, Clevdud, and Maarin, Aol; a
French boy nnffing love-eonge in those glorious galieriee ; whilst about twenty <^ the great oourtten
md other dis8<Mute persons were at Basset round a laige tables a bank of at least 9000k in gold befbtt
them. Hix days after all was in the dust"
In Vertne'B plan are shown the butteiy, bakehouse, wood and coal yards, charooal-
hoose^ spioery, dder-house ; and, beneath the Banqueting-honse» the long's privy cellar.
Owing to its low level, Whitehall was liable to floods from the Thames. Pepys, in
1663, records a high tide having drowned the whole palace ; and Charles II., when he
recdved the Lords and Commons in the Banqueting*hall at the Restoration, desires
them to mend the ways, so that his wife " may not find Whitehall under water."
At Whitehall Charles collected about 1000 volumes, dedicated or presented to him :
induing an illuminated Breviary given by Henxy VII. to his daughter, Margaret
Queen of Soots, with his autograph ; a curious MS. in high Dutdi on the Great Elixir ;
a French MS. 800 years old, with paintings of plants in miniature ; and a journal, &o.
in the handwriting of Edward VI. Charles II. died at Whitehall, Feb. 6, 1685; and
his successor was immediatdy proclaimed at the pnl%oe-gate. James II. resided here :
he washed the feet of the poor with his own hands on Maundy Thursday in the Chapel
Hoyal : here he admitted Penn, the Quaker, to his private doset ; and he rebuilt the
chapel for Bomish worship, with marble statues by Gibbons, and a fresco by Verrio.
The King also erected upon the Banqueting-house a large weathercock, that he might
calculate by the wind the probable arrival of the Dutdi fleet. {See Canaletti's view.)
On Dec 18, 1688, James left Whitehall in the state-barge, never to return. In 1691
a destructive fire reduced tbe palace to '* nothing but walls and ruins :" 150 houses
were burned down, and twenty blown up with g^pbwder. In 1697 a fire broke out
in the laundry ; all the pictures in the palace were destroyed, and twelve persons
pcrinhed. The remaining portions of the site of Whitehall wero given away by the
Crown. Charles Duke of Bichmond had a mansion on the south-east side of Privy
Qurden : it was rebuilt from a plan by the Earl of Burlington, and was burnt down in
1791 ; its site is now occupied by Bidimond-terraoe.
His Grace was a liberal patron of the Hm arts, and in 1768 ordered a room to be opened at his
houso in Whitehall, containing a large eollectlon or original planter caste, from the best antiqoe boats
and fttatnn at Some and Florence, to which all artltU, and yontht above twelve year* of age, had
ready aooeas : he dao bestowed two medaU annually on those who exeonted the two beet modela.
In Privy Oarden was also built Pembroke House; and subsequentiy, Qwydir Homee,
now the Office of the Poor-Law Board.
8 b2
836 CURIOSITIES OF LONDON,
Gardens and 2>ui2ffy— WhitehaU gardens were bud oot in terraces and pazterro^ and
ornamented with marble and bronze statues, a few of which are now at Ham^aa
Court and Windsor. In Privy Garden was a dial set up by Edward Giinter, pvofencr
of astronomy at Gresham College (and of wUch be published a descripyaD)^ 1^
command of James I., in 1624. A large stone pedestal bore fonr cUals at the §aar oorncss.
and "the great horizontal ooncave" in the centre; hesides east, west, nartfa, sad
south dials at the sides. In the reign of Charles II. this dial was deftced by an iota&-
cated nobleman of the Court :
" This place for a dial was too nnMcore,
Since a guard and a garden eoald not defiottd ;
For ao near to the Coart iher will newer endnre
Any witneaa to show how their time thej miaBpend.**— JTorveZt.
In the oourt-yard feuang the Banqueting-house was another curious dial, set up is
1669 by order of Charles II. It was invented by one Francis Hall, aliat Lyne» a
Jesuit^ and professor of mathematios at Li^e. This dial consisted of five stages risag
in a pyramidal form, and bearing several vertical and redimng dials, globes cot into
planes, and glass bowls; showing "besides the houres of all kinds," " manj thii^ also
belonging to* geography, astrology, and astronomy, by the sun's shadow made viaibie to
the eye." Among the pictures were portraits of the King, the two Queens, the Duke
of York, and Prince Rupert. Father Lyue published a description of this dial, whidi
consisted of seventy-three parts : it is illustrated with seventeen plates. (Hie details
are condensed in No. 400 of the Mirror.) About 1710, William Allingham, a mathe-
matician in Canon-row, asked 500/. to repair this dial : it was last seen by Verlne at
Buckingham House.
Remains of ancient Whitehall have been from time to time discovered. In 18S1,
Ur. Sydney Smirke, F.SJL, in the basement of "Cromwell Houses," Wbxtehall-yard,
ftmnd a stone-built and groined Tudor apartment — undoubtedly a relic of Wokey's
palace^ and corresponding with the wine-cellar in Yertue's plan, — ^which is remaikahiy
larger than the chapeL Mr. Smirke also found a Tudor arched doorway, with
remains of the arms of Wolsey and the see of York in the spandrels; a portian of the
river- wall and circular bastions ; and two stone mullioned Tudor windows, at the back at
the Almonry-office, corresponding with the back wall of the apartments of ** the Teomea
of the Wood-yard," in Yertue's plan. In 1847 were removed the last remaios of York
House, a Tudor embattled doorway, which had been bmlt into a later &fade of the
Treasury. (Archaol<>ffia, voL zxv.)
Among the relict, comparatively bat little known, is a range of duunbers, with gnaned roofings of
stone, at the Rolla Offices In Whitehall-gardens, which, probehly, are a portion of the ancient palMe of
Whitehall. Part of the external wall orthese remains is stiU visible opposite the statue of James IL—
S. Mog/brd, FJSM
Upon the ute of the small-beer odiar (engraved in No. 4 of HoHai^s prints of
Whitehall) is the house of the 'EaA of Fife. Here were some fine Gobelins tapestiy ;
a marble picture of Mary Stuart, with her in&nt ; and in Pennant's time here was a
bead of Cliarles I. when Prince of Walea^ said to have been painted at Madrid by
Yeksquez, in 1625.* The mandon was sold, in 1809, for 12,0002. to the Eari of
Liverpool, who possessed it until his death in 1828. In an adjoining w*all is the Todcr
arched entrance to the palace water-stairs. In Privy Grarden was the celebrated
Museum formed by the Duchess of Portland : here Pennant was shown a rich pearl
surmounted with a crown, which was taken out of the ear of Charles I. after his head
was struck off: here also was the Barberini or Portland Yase, purchased by the Ihuhea
of Sir William Hamilton for 1800 guineas. The museum was sold by auction, in lots^
April 24, 1786, when the vase was bought by the Duke of Portland for 1029 gniness,
ai^ deposited by his grace in the British Museum in 1810.
In Whitehall Yard is the United Sebyicb Inbtitutiok MrrssxTic, described at
page 545. No. 8 is the Office of the Comptroller General of the Exchequer, where is
held "the Trial of the Pjrx.'
n
* In IMS, Mr. Snare^ of Beading, bought at a aale of pietoies st Badley Hall a painting whidihe
believed to be '* the lost portrait ''^ of Prinoe Charlea by Velaaqnes, and ao denoted by tte Eari of
fl& in a catalogue of his pictures at Fife House, in 1796. (Am Acooont of the Fictorc, ke.
Beading, 1847.)
WINDOWS OF PAINTED AND STAINED GLASS. 837
The ceremony of the Ihrx it a very ancient cnitom, and takes place erery five, six, or seven years, at
le above olBces, or In Old Palace-yard. It is a sort of trial of the Masters and Officers of the Mint, to
scertain if the coina^ which they have issued Is pure and standard gold and silver, fair weiffhts^
nd proper qntotities of alloy. A jury of eminent goldsmiths being sworn, the Master of the Mint
rodaces the great pyx box. The chest, which reanires six men to carry it, contains several thousand
avereiicns and some silver— principally florins, shillings, sixpenny, and threepenny pieces— the result*
f the xu»nmnlation since the previous trial. As soon as the chest is fhll the trial roust take place.
'he chief olerk of the Exchequer produces the box containing "the pyx," that is, a plate of gold snd
ne of BilvAr,made in the time of George III. The pyx is always kept in the sndent chapel at West-
minster ; the Ckmtroller of the Exchequer, Chancellor of the Exchequer, and Treasury, each possessing
sepaurate key of the box in which the pix is kept. After the usual formalities, the Lord Chancellor
uts off two strips of metal from the pix plates, one from the gold and the other from the silver, and
tandp them to the foreman of the Jury of goldsmiths, by whom the assay is to be made. After this the
»ix is tcdcen back to the Chapter-house and locked up, while the jury and the chief clerk, with the
tandard weights, proceed to Goldsmiths' Hall, where the coins from the Mint pix box are assayed by
he acid test and weight. The ceremony and the actual process are well described in the Timig,
Ian. SO, 1806.
In Whitehall Gardens (till oar time called by the old name. Privy Garden) is
bto^TAGiTB House {see p. 553); No. 4 is Sis Robest Peel's (see p. 555). No. 7
is P^etnhroke House (formerly the Earl of Harrington's) : in 1854, it was fitted up for
the \Var Minister.
Whitehall commences at Scotland-yard, named from its having been the site of
the palace " for receipt of the Kings of Scotland, when they came to the Parliament
of £ng)and :" to this statement by Stow, it has been objected that Scotland has always
been an independent nation — a short period of possession nnder the Edwards excepted.
Strype, qooting a pamphlet of 1548, states the Palace to have been built by Kenneth
III., King of Scotland, in 959, on ground given him by King Edgar, for his making
thither an annual journey to do homage for the kingdom of Scotland : but this account
is less credited than Stow's. -
** The Scottish Kinss appear to have been anciently regarded u members of the English Parlia-
ment ; and there are instances, amouff the Tower records, of the issuing of writs to summon thofar
attendance. In Pinkerton's Jeonoaraphia Scotiea is engraved Edward I. sitting in Parliament, with
Alexander, Kins of Seots, on his right, and Llewellyn, Prince of Wales, on his left hand : this is stated
to have bran taken from a copy of an ancient limning, formerly in the English College of Arms. When
the Scottish Sovereigns, in Is^r times, attended to do homage for their fiefr of Cumberland and West-
moreland, thOT usually lodged in their palace, in Scotland-yard."— Non : in Brayley's XoMfiniaHO,
ii. 277-e.
Scotland-yard is now the head-quarters of the Metropolitan Police. See pp. 681 — 683.
Here are Palace'Tow, and a large Conduit-house. Milton, when Latin Secretary to
Cromwell, had apartments in Scotland-yard, where died the poet's infant ton. The
Crown Surveyor had his official residence in Scotland-yard ; and here lived Inigo Jones,
Sir John Denham, and Sir Christopher Wren, who successively filled the above office.
Near his house in Scotlandjvard. Inigo Jones, uniting with Nicholas Stone, the sculptor, buried his
' The Parliament published an order encoui
, four of the workmen were privy to the deposit^
removed it privately, and with their own hands buried it in Lambeth Marsh."— X^e by Cunningham.
money iu a private place. " The Parliament published an order encouraging servanu to inform of
such conoeaiments ; and as four of the workmen were privy to the deposit^ Jones and his friend
Here Sir John Vanbrugh built himself a house out of the ruins of Whitehall Palace :
Swift has ridiculed the house of ** brother Van" for its resemblance to a goose-pie :
Vanbrugh died here in 1726.
WINDOWS OF PAINTED AND STAINED GLASS.
THE more noteworthy specimens in the Metropolis are incidentally noticed in
describing the edifices which contain them. The following are recent additions :^-
St, PauVs Cathedral, — One of a series of windows is that presented by Mr.
Thomas Brown, late of the house of Longman and Co. — the subjects depicted bdng
from the Life of St. PauL The cartoons were designed by Schnorr, and Plrofessor
Striihaber is the artist, who was asked by Schnorr himself to carry his designs into
eficct. Inspector von Ainmlller was requested in like manner to take in hand the
architectural accessories. The window is divided into two parts. The upper and
prmcipal part represents the " Vision " seen by the Apostle, and in the lower portion
Ananias is seen coming to St. Paul when blind. To the right and left, the donor and
his wife are represented in a kneeling posture, and beneath are their coats of arms and
other decorations. The composition and the architectural porUon — chiefiy from
motift by the English architect Penrose, who superintends the works of restoration— ^
arc eioeUent.
^ CUEI08ITIE8 OF LONDON.
Tie OMildhall.-^Amoagtt the enrichments of the Hall are aeveral window^ one of
which, prewnted by Mr. OimeUiu Lea Wilson, is of fine historical design, hj GiUs.
It is in four compartments, the subjects being the presentation of the fear ptin-
dpal charters of the City ; the figures are ric^y coloured and jewelled on £apend
baukgroonds, and are surmounted by canofnes on a rich ruby ground ; the arms of the
City and those of the donor are introduced in the traoery lights. The first sulgeci is
William the Conqueror holding in his hand the first charter granted to the City. Tbe
second subject is Henry I. presenting the charter granting to the City to hold Middle-
sex with London, and the right of bunting in the forests. The third subject is
Bichard I. granting the charter to the City of the oonservancy of the river Thames, in
order that Uie fishery might be nurtured and preserved, and the narigataon enoomaged
and protected. The fourth and last sulject is Edward YI. presenting the charter of the
four Boyal Hospitals.
A huge specimen of Glass-paintang was exhibited at No. 16, Oxfhrd-street» in 1830.
The ral^eet waa the ToornameDt of the Field of Cloth-of-6old, between Hemr VIII. and FnneisL,
at Ardree ; the iMt toomey, June 26. 1620 : painted by Thomas WUmahunt (tfae horaea by Woodvard),
fttrni a sketch by B. T. Bone. This window waa 432 aquare feet, or 18 by 24 feet: and oonaisted of 390
pieces, fittiid faito metal aatragala, fUling with the shadows^ ao that the whcde picture appeared aa
entire sheet of glaas; it waa exhibited in a first-floor room, decorated hi the taste of the timeoT
Henry VIII. The picture was composed from the detaUs of HaH'a Chronide, and eantained opvardi
of 100 life-sized flgnrea (40 portraiU, mostly after Holbein) : inclodinff the two Queens, Wolsey. Aam
fioleyne, and the Coontess or Chateanbriant; Charles Brsnaon, Doke of Soflblk ; Qaeen Mary, Powagg
of France; the ill-fated Dake of Backlngham, ftc. llie iranreoos assemblsce of costnme, tp)ldanfl
Jewels, waving plomea, glittering arms, velvet, ennbie. and doth-of-gold, with beraldie emwaaooty,
pictoresanely msnsged. The work cost the artist 90001. On the night of Jan. 31, 1832^ the hoose vis
deslroyea in an accidental fire, and with it the picture ; not even a sketch or study
wjv w-...«-. .-w. «-^ „ ^. , . » , fcTed, sad the
property wss wholly uninsurea.
ZOOLOGICAL aociErrs gajeldjsns,
UPON the north-west side of the Regent's Park, consist of a triangular garden soutli oi
the outer road, and a northern garden upon the banks of the Regent's Canal : they
are connected by a tunnel beneath the road, and their extent is about 17 acres. The
soil being originally the London day very near the surfuce, was cold and damp, and,
for a time, caused great mortality among the animals of the Menagerie ; but the whole
has been thoroughly drained and tastefully planted.
The Zoological Society was instituted in 1826, <*fbr the general advancement of
loological science." It had been proposed
'*The great otjeets shonld be, the introdoctlon of new varieties, breeds, snd raoes of snfansl^ for
the purpose of domestici^on or for stocking onr farro>yards, wooda, pleasore-gronnd^ snd ^^"^^
with the establishment of a general lOological collection, consisting of prepared specimens in tbe
different classes and orders, so as to affoid a correct view of the Animal Kingdom at lai^e, in as com-
idete a series as may be practicable : and at the same time point oat the analogies between the saimals
already domesticsted, and thoee which are similar in character, upon wluch the first experiments may
be made. • • • • Shonld the Society flourish and snooeed, it will not only be nsefol in eommon
lif& but would likewise promote the best and moat extensive objects of the Sdentifio K'^^I'T^
Animated Nature, and ofier a collection of living animals such as never yet existed in sadent or toftaen
ibDtM."^Pro9peeim$t privately circulated, 1824.
Among the founders of the Society were Sir Stamford RaflSes, Sir Hnmphiy Bft^i
Earl Bamley, Sir Everard Home, Mr. Davies Gilbert, Dr. Horsfield, the Re?. W
Eirby, Mr. Sharpe Madeay, and Mr. N. A. Vigors ; and into the new Society merged
the Zoological Club. At the same time was commenced the formation of a Moseam,
st No. 88, Bruton-8treet» with the magxufioent collection of Sir S. Raffles. A plot o!
ground in the Regent's Park was granted to the Society by the government* and laid
out by Dedmus Burton, who also built the first houses and indosures for the animslB.
Sir Francis Chantrey took great interest in the Society, and the embellishment of tiie
Gardens. In 1827, the lake in the Park, with its islands and water-fowl, and a ate
for breecUng and rearing, were likewise granted to the Sodety. The Gardens veie
first opened to the public in 1828, by members' orders, and one shilling each person;
and during seven months there were upwards of 30,000 visitors : there were then
in the Menagerie 430 animals ; and the year's expenses were 10,000/.
Among the earliest tenants of the Menagerie were a pair of emus from New
Holland; two Arctic bears and a Russian bear; a herd of kangaroos; Cuban masti^
and Thibet watch-dogs; two llamas from Peru ; a splendid collection of eagles^ faloon%
ZOOLOOIOAL 80GIETTS GARDENS. 839
nd OMfls ; a pair of beaven ; cranes^ spoonbills, and storks ; zebras and Indian cows ;
Isqiiitzianx dogs ; armadilloes ; and a collection of monkeys. To the collection have
ince been added an immense number of species of Mennmalia and Birds, lists of which
re appended to the sereral annoal Beports. To these was added, in 1849, a collection
f JtcptiUt; and in 1853, a collection of FUh, Molluseti, Zoophytes, and other Aquatic
tnits*4xls. Among the royal donors to the collection are the Emperor of Russia, the
»te Queen of Portngal, the Viceroy of Egypt, and Qaeen Victoria. In 1830, the
aenafi^erie collected iy George IV. at Sandpit-gate, Windsor, was removed to the
>ociety's Gardens ; and 1834 the last of the Tower Menagerie waa recdved here. It
a noi^ the finest public Vivarium in Europe.
Xhe following are some of the more remarkable animals which the Society have
or are now in the Menagerie : —
jA^mteiopes, the great frmllj ot finely represented. The beantiftil Stands were beqaeathed bv the
ate Karl of Derby, and ha?e ored freely since thdr arrival in 1851. The Leacoryx Is the first or her
"ace bom oat of Africa. Aui-eaier, Giant, brought to England from Brazil in 1863, and was exhibited
n Broad-street 8t. Giles's, until purchased b^ the Zoological Society for 200^ (8ss the admirable
aaper by Professor Owen.) Avlsnfx, or Kiwi bird, flrom New Zealand; the first llTing spsdmea
oroaKbt to England of this rare Dird. The FUk-^hmtse, built of iron and rlass, in 1863, consisting of
% aeriea of glass tanks, in which fish spawn, xoophytes prodnoe yoong, ana algw luxuriate; Crustacea
uid molloaoa lire snooeesfuJly. and asddian polypes are illustrated, together with sea anemones, ielly-
iabes and star-fishes, rare shell-fishee, ftc. : a new world of animal life is here seen as in the depths of
the ocean, with masses of rock, sand, grarel, corallines, sea>weed. and seapwater ; the animals are In a
state of natural restlessness, now quiescent, now eating and being eaten. Awrodts, or Suropsan
Bimoum : a pair presented by the Emperor of Bossla, in 1847, from the forest of Bialowitzca : the male
died in 1846^ the female in 184B, tnm plenro-imeumonia. Bean: the collection is one of the largest
ever made. Stspkantss indodlng an Indian elephant calf and its mother. In 1847 died here the
tfTestt Indian elephant Jack, having been in the gardens sixteen vears. Adjoining the stable is a tank
of water, of a dgbth nearly equal to the height of a fttll-nown elephant. In 1851 the Society possessed
a h^rd fjffowt EUpkcuiis, bendes a hippopotamus, a rnlnoceroa, and both species of tapir ; being the
largest oolleotion of pachydermata ever exhibited in Europe. CHn^ss : four received in 1836 cost the
Society upwards of 9002^ including KXMM. for steamboat passage : tne female produced six male fiiwns
here between 1840 and 1861. Bippopatamns, a young mafo (the first living specimen seen in England),
reoeived from Egypt in May, 1860^ when ten monlhs old, aoren feet long, and six and a half feet in
girth ; also a Itaaale hippopotamus, received 1864. Bummiauhhirds s Mr. Gould's matchless collection
of aooo examples was exhibited here in 1861 and 1862. iguanaSf two ttom Cuba and Carthagena,
doaely resembUng, hi everything but siio, the fossil Iguanodon. The Inans nujiber ^nerally nom
ei^ht to ten, including a pslr of cubs bom in the gardens in 1863. Oraiy^nAm and Ckimpansee : the
rarchaae-maney of the latter sometimes exceeds 300<. The orang "Darby," brought from Borneo in
851, is the finest yet seen in Europe, very intelligent, and dodle as a chil<£ Farrot-Mouss*, the. some-
times contain tram sixty to seventy species. Bapaeious Birds : so extensive a series of eagles and
▼nltnrea haa never yet been seen at one view. Tht BsptiU-honss was fitted up in 1840 ; the creaturea
ere placed in large plate-glass cases: here are pyth<ms and a rattle«iake, with a young one bom
here; here Is also a case of the tree-fkogs of Europe: a vellow snake from Jamaica has nroduced
eijrht voong In the mrdens. Cb6ra ds CapMo, from India : in 1862^ a keeper in the gardens was
killed by tOB bite or this serpent A largs Boa hi 1860 swallowed a blanket, and di^rged It in
thirtT-three days. A ons-^ktrnsd JKAinoeerot. of continental India, waa obtained to 1834. when it wu
aboQt four years old, and weighed 26 owt.j it died in 1860: It waa replaced bv a female, about five
years old. Satin Bowsr-Birds, from Sydney: a pair have built here a bower, or breeding-place. Tapir
of the Old World, trom Mount Ophir ; the nearest existing form to the Paleotheriom. Tiaen t a pair
of manifioent qpedmena, presented by the Guicowar of Bazoda In 1861 ; a pair of clouded tigers, 1864i
Ths Tro^M I>Mr breeds every year in the Menagerie.
The animalB in the Oardenv, although reduced in number, are more valoable and
interefting than when theur number was higher. The miflsions of the Society^ head-
kee])er, to collect 'rare animals for the Menagerie, have been very profitable. The
additional bouses, from time to time^ are very ezpennve: the new monkey-house,
fittings, and works cost 4542/.; and in 1864^ the sum of 6604/. was laid out in
permanent additions to the estabUshment. In 1863, the income amounted to
20,284/. 12#. 11(2. — a sum unexampled, except in the two Exhibition years; but the
income of 1864 reached 21,713/. 13«. lOd, The vidtm of all classes to the Gardens
during the year 1864 were 607,169 — a number falling little, if at all, short of that of
the visitoirs to the British Museum, which is open to the publio gratuitously. The
yearly ineome of the Society ipay now be reckoned, under ordinary circumstances, to
reach the amount of 20,00p/.; and the ordinary expenses of the present large
establishment, 17,000/. The greater part of the above lai^e sum is produced by the
shillings and sixpences taken at the gates of the Society's Gardens for the admission of
visitors. In 1864^ upwards of 12,7(X>/. accrued to the Sodety's revenues in this way,
•nd tha corresponding amount in each year generally exceeds 10,000/. Visitora on
Mondays and holidays, who pay only sixpence a head, contribute by far the larger pro*
840 CURIOSITIES OF LONDON.
portaoD of thia siun — their numbers being much more than doable those ai the jmtts^
on the other daji of the week who pay one sbilBng each.
The niunber of FeUowv tnd Annual Bnbecriben at the cloae of 18M was 240. IneooRe, nz^'.
TUtort, 527,340. Aninula in the Menagerie, WIS; Qoadrapeda, 635; Birda^ 130S; SoK^ea. .r
Anienditare. tt,41U.; eoet and keep of Animali, 14001. Menagme ezpenaea^ 1068C ftorsL .«.
9BS7L—Ktw BniUOnga and Worka, 9063/.
The Society's Musenm, which is in the Sonth Garden, is described at p. 606L Ai
excellent Guide to tke Oardem is published.
ZOOLOGICAL GARDENS, 8UBMET,
WERE esUblished in 1831, by Mr. Edward Cross* upon the demesne wldch hai
been attached to the manor-house at Walworth. Thither Cross removed Lj
meni^rie from the King's Mews, where it had been transferred from Bxeber Chac^
The Gardens were laid out by Henry Phillips, author of Sylva Itorifera j when u^ghzai
orcular building, 100 feet in diameter, was built for the cages of the carnivorous anisujs
(lions, tigers, leopards* &c) ; and other houses for mammalia, l»r^ &c Here, Ir
1834^ was first exhibited a young Indian one-homed rhinoceros, for which Oqsb paid
8002. ; it was the only spedmen brought to England for twenty years : in 1836 were
added three giraffes, one fifteen feet high. To the zoological attraction was added a
large picture-model, upon the borders of the lake, three acres in extent : the first
picture, Mount Vesuvius (with the natural lake for the Bay of Naples), was prodn£«d
m 1837, when fireworks were also first introduced, for the volcanic eniption ; in 1833,
Iceland and its volcanoes; 1841, the City of Rome; 1843, Temple of EUora; I9H
London and the Great Fire of 1666; 1845, £<Unburgh; 1846, Vesuvine reproduced;
1848, Rome, reproduced ; 1849, Storming of Badajoz. These pictore-nKiddfl, mosilj
painted by Danson, were of great extent; that of Rome occupying five aeres^ and a
painted surface of 260,000 square feet. They probably originate in the Bandagh
spectacles of the last century ; for in 1792 was exhibited there Mount Etna, 80 fees
high, with the flowing lava, and altogether a triumph of machinery and pyxtitechniesL
Balloon-ascents, flower-shows, and other sights, with out-door concerts, were added ta
the attractions of these Gardens. In 1856, the property was sold, the Menagene
removed, and there was built upon the site the Surrey if usic Hall, described at pw GOd.
THE CRYSTAL PALACE, SYDENHAM.
ALTHOUGH this stupendous structure is not, like its prototype, the 1851 Great
Exhibition building in Hyde Park, placed within the limits of the town, the
" Curiosities of London" would scarcely be complete without some notice of the contents
of the Crystal Palace at Sydenham. It occupies the summit of a hill betweei tba
Brighton Railway and the Dulwich Wood, the fall from its site to the railway beii^
200 feet ; the main floor of the Palace being on a level with the cross at the top of
St. P&\il's Cathedral. In its construction the materials of the 1851 Exhibition building
have been employed; but it is larger than its predecessor by 1628 feet^ and by neariy
one-half in cubic contents. It is almost entirely of iron and glass, coveis nearly 16 acres
of ground ; and its height from the garden-front to the top of the louvres is 208 feet, or
6 feet higher than the Monument. The nave is covered with an arched roof, raisix^ it
44 feet higher than the nave in Hyde Park; and the centre and two end transepts
have similar roofs. From there Windsor Castle may be seen on the one sde,
SJQOckholt beeches (near Seven Oaks) on the other. Nearly 10,000 tons of iroa
have been used in the main building and wings; and the superficial quantity of glass
is 25 acres.
The Nave is entered at the south end, through an ornamental screen of niches filled
with statues of kings and queens by John Thomas. In the area, statoes are pic^
turesquely grouped with stupendous pines, palms^ and other tropical plants of luxnnant
beauty, backed by the brilliant facades of the various Indnstriid and Rne Axis Coorta.
East and west are groups illustrating the ethnology, loology, and botany of the Oid
and New Worlds ; and at each end is a spacious basin, for a fountain to throw up water
from 70 to 200 feet. In the Courts, and dispersed throughout the building, are the
TEE CRYSTAL PALACE, SYDENHAM. 841
'works of French and Italian, German and Englisb, Roman and Greek sculptors ; and
models of celebrated ancient and modem edifices. Throughout the whole Palace are
galleries devoted to the exhibition of pictures, sculpture, and other objects of fine art
and industry. The most beautiful works are the Courts representing the architecture
and sculpture of each nation : Egyptian, Greek, Roman, Pompeian, Alhambra, Assyrian,
Sjzantine, and Romanesque ; German, English, French, and Italian mediaeval ; Renais-
aance, Elizabethan, Italian, &c.
The great Orchestra in the centre Transept, erected for the Handel Festivals, is
capable of containing four thousand performers. S*he Handel Festivals are held trien-
nially. The four festivals held in 1857, 1859, 1862, and 1865, were attended by
254,234 persons, the receipts being upwards of 100,0002. The large Organ crowning
tibe great Orchestra was built expressly for these festivals by Messrs. Gray and
iOavison. In width this enormous Orchestra is double the diameter of the dome of
St, Paul's.
Up to this time— a period of between thirteen and fourteen years — ^the Palace has
"been visited by upwards of twenty-one millions of visitors. On holiday and great fi^te
days it is no uncommon occurrence to find from 40,000 to 60,000 persons attending.
On one occasion (a Forester's f&te) 83,721 visitors passed the stiles in one day.
The income of the Company annually varies from 120,0002. to 140,000Z. per annum.
Of this large sum about 20,0002. arises from season tickets, a nearly similar amount
from royalties on refreshments, and about 15,0002. from exhibitors' rental.
Descending across the terraces, decorated with marble vases filled with flowers and
figures emblematical of all nations, to the Italian and English Landscape-Garden and
tbe Park, we find Science and Philosophy teaching their sublime truths in a geol(^ical
illustration of the Wealden formation, " so well known in Kent, Surrey, and Sussex,
and formerly the great metropolis of the Dinosaurian orders, or the largest of gigantic
lizards :" the various strata are Iiere represented ; and here Mr. Waterhouse Hawkins,
xmder the guiding eye of Professor Owen, has built up gigantic animals of a former
-world, and in some instances restored them from fossil remains.
Tbe series of fountains are a great attraction and are unrivalled in extent. The two
largest jets throw water 240 feet in height, being in volume and extent equal to the
l^reat steeple of Bow Church, Cheapside.* The Palace, Park, Gai-dens^and Fountuns,
&c., were de<ngued and laid out by the late Sir Joseph Paxton, M.P.
The Palace is approached by a branch from the Brighton Railway, and also by a
high level railway connected with the London, Chatham and Dover Railway main
stations, Victoria and Ludgate. By the latter, the entire system of the Metropolitan
(Underground) Railway communicates with the Palace. Similar communication also
exists by Kensington with the North London Railway. .On the completion of the East
London (Tunnel) Railway, the Palace will be in direct communication with all the
g^rcat railways entering London, and excursions may be run from all parts of the
country thereto. The building was opened by her Majesty, June 10, 1854. It has
cost nearly a million and a half of money; and m grandeur of purpose is a marvel of
enlightened enterprise.
The •ontenta of the Palace are all that iti miiffic-siiggestive name promises. For pIctaTeaqoe efEtets
we have fountains and fishpoola, flowers and plants; for art-teaching porpoees we have atatoes and
paintingi, with noolis of Spain, Pompeii, Nineveh, and Egypt ; for examples of indostrial arts, mana*
fhctures from all the ciTilized nations. In this building we can again take art from its cradle in Assyria
or Egypt, and trace, after its long sojourn on the banlis of the Nile, its progress through Greece and
Borne, and during the Middle Ages, to the BenaiHance. No need to draw upon the imagination. Hers
are casts and fkithftil represeutauona of the most important oli|)ects that modem research has discovered.
The English artisan, with little time for study, and less hope of travel, is, by this means, made
acquainted with the works of races whose names were unknown to his (brefkthers, and fiuniliar with
antediluvian monsters, whose pre-Adamite existenoe was but fidntly shadowed out in the griffins and
dragona of romance.]
* A portion of the north end of the Palace was destroyed by fire oaosed br the ezploeion of gas in the
flues heating the 60 miles of hot-water pipes withm the Palace, on Sunday, December SO, 1866.: a
ooQsiderable portion of the damaged part oos, however, already been reooostnioted.
INDEX.
A DELPHI:
•^ Adamt, arohiteets, 1
Banks. Sir Edward, 1
Beekat^ the bookieUcr, S
Blamlre, Ckorge, death of, S
Embankment of Thames, 1
Ganick't Honae and PobUo
Fnneral, 1
HOI, Thomas : Cdrioritles, S
Knox, Yloesimns, S
literaiy Fnnd ohamben, 9
Sandwich Islands, King and
Qaeen of, 3
Tsrraoe and Yiew, 1
APMimALTr OmcE:
Qarenee, Duke of. Lord
High Admiral. 8
Nelson's Funeral, 8
BIpley, architect. 2
Screen, by Adam, 2
Semaphore, and the Electric
Telegraph, 8
Wallingford Hoose, S
ALCHSMUn:
Brande's accoont, 3
Bermetie MytUry^ sap-
pressed work,' 4
Last true belierer In, 8
WoQlfe, P., Bamajd*s Inn, k
Aldehmen:
BartMsr, printer, 5
Birch, Bo7delI,and Wilkes, 6
Batler*8 Character of, 6
Oont at Gnildhall, 6
Election of, A
Farringdon Ward, 5
Norton's CommaUarfeM^ 5
Bead, Richard, fbot soldier, 5
Saxon origin, 4
Walhuie, William,ga61er of,5
Wards or Guilds, 6
Auiaok's:
Decline of, 4
First opened, 4
Novel and Key, 4
Williams, GiUy, describes, 4
Almokby, Botal :
Almoner, Q. Adelaide's, 7
Coronation Alms, 7
Hi|^ Almoner, 7
Maundy Thursday distri-
bution, 7
WhitehaU Chapel, 7
Almonbt:
Ancient house, tf
Caxton*s Printing-press, 8
Great and Little Almonry, 6
Harrington. James, 6
Westminster Abbey, 6
AUISHOD8E8 :
AileynX 8
Arohitectare of, 9
Bancroft's, 8
Clock and Watchmakers*, 9
Care's, 8
Dramatic College, 9
Drapers', 8
East India, 9
Emmanuel Hospital, 8
Fishmongers', 8
French Protestant, 9
Goldsmiths', 9
Haberdashers*, 9
KingWilliam^, 9
London, 9
London Companies*, 7
Maiylebone, 9
Morden College, 9
Norfolk, 9
Owen's, 8
Palmer's, 9
Salters*, 8
Societies, rarioos, 9
Sorrey Chapel, 9
Trinity, 8
Van Dan*s, 8
WesUnin^ter, 7, 8
Whittington's, 8
Amusements:
Archery, 10
Ballad -singing, 10
Bear and Bull-baiting, 11
Bowls, II
Card-playing, 10
Cock-fighting, 13
Cricket, 19
Duck-hunting, IS
Equestrianism, IS
Fain, 18
Fireworks, 14
Football, 14
Hunting and Poaching, 14
Masquerades, 14
Mayings and May-games, 16
Parks, Sports and Pastimes
in, 16
Punch's Street Sbov, 1*
Prison Bars, or Bate, 1<
Puppet shovs, IC
Backet and Tennis, 17
Salt-box Music, 17
Skitties, 17
Tem-gaiilem^ 17
Thames Sports, 19
Theatres. 19
APOJU.OICICOH :
Comtruction sad Fofia^
mances, 19
Abcades:
Bnrlingtoo, GoTeat GsrdcD.
Exeter 'Change. Lo«tb£&
20
Buckingliam Falsee, Gna
Park,andHjrder»k,n
Abgtix Books:
Braithwaiteli Stesm Fin
Engine; Gbabezt, "Fire
Klngj^end Vdloti,*-
Akt Umoir or Losww:
Pictures hi demssd. »
Prises drawn, 93
Abtbsiah Wells:
Breweries', varieitt."
Buckland, Dr., oDi ^^
CoTent Garden, U
Hampstead-road, n
Origin of, 98
Prestwlck on, 24
Supply of; 33
Tottenham, 23
Various, 38
Abtiluert Compaq-
Archers of nniboiy, 5*
Armorial Ensiiina, 3S
Armoury House. 25
Captalu.G€nersl,»ndw»-
nebi, 25
Masters and UsrcUngs, ?»
TnhiedBand,24.2t
BALLOON ASCBNT8:
CoxwelrtA!«fl«^^\^
Glaisher>s Soientiflfi Ac-
cents, 27
Green's Asccntf, 2S
London, from »Wto«t»^
Memorsbble, 26, 27
INDEX.
843
,Tjaoivf Ascents — cowUL
Baths continued.
Bethlem — continued.
lontgolfier, S6
HQmmDins,or Warm Baths,
Gibber's Raving and 31elan-
PaMaa* Oreftt, 97
Covent Garden, 89
choly Madness. 51, 53
'araebntea, 36
Peerless Pool, 87
Criminal Lunatics, 53
mitb, Albert, iMent of, 97
Qaeen Anne**, 89
Curable Patients, 58
NK OP BHOUilfD:
Queen EUzabeth's, 89
. History of the word, 51
LTea of; S7
Roman, 87
Horrors of old Bethlem, 53
lank-note Uachinery, 39
TarMsb, 89
House of Occupation, 63
luilding- and Arohitecta, 88
Bazaabs:
Improved Managemenr, 53
luUion OAce, 38
Anti-Com-Law Leagoe, 43
Old Bethlem described, 51
nock. 99
Baker- street, 41
Origin of the name, 51
^Ins and Ciiiio8iUe«» 80
Corinthian, 543
Rebuilt on St. George's
("aqi^erie*, 80
Cosroorsms, 43
Fields, 53
rarden ConrtandFooiitaiii,
St. Jameses, 41
Second Bethlem. 51
SO
Lowther, 41
Tom 0* Bedlam, 53
S^roeen* Hall and Meroen*
Pantechnicon, 41
Betbnal Gbeen:
Hall, 38
Pantheon, 41
Blind Beggar, 50
ifewland, Alnaham, 80
Portland, 48
Bishop Bonner's Palace, 50
SoteB and amoonts, 81
Principle of the Basaar, 40
Habits of the people, 50
Panics and Baiu, 39
Soho,40
Billingsgate :
Eliflcfl, Gompanf of, 81
Western Exchange, 41
Billingsgate discourse, 54
VV^eighing Oi&oe, 89
Batiiabd^s Castle:
Fish consumed in London ,55
JTKSIDB :
Bainiardus, foonder, 40
Fishfkg and Origin of the
Bear and Ball-baitlnsr, 81
Baynard*s Watering and
name, 54
Stews and Theatm, 81
Baf swater, 40
Fish-trade. 55
LRBICAll:
Bomphref and Richard,
Dukes of Gloucester, 40
Market RebuUt, 55
Ancient Watch-tower, 83
Blackfriars :
Milton** Honw, 83
BSOGABS:
Bedstead,curioo8 ancient, 57
Origin of Barbican, 83
Frauds, 43
Bible translators. 57
kBTnOIX>MBW FaiB :
Mendicity Society, 43
Charles V. lodged. 55
Ben Jonaon, Dogget, and
Sky FarmerB, 43
Henry VIIL and Katherine
Pepya. 88
Belgrayia:
of Arragon, 56
Celebrities, 88, 84
Belgrave-sqoare boilt, 48
Hunsdon House and ** Fatal
Otf Bigrhta, 88
Five Fields 48
Vespers," 56
Cloth Fair, 88
Cabitt,Thoma8, sketch of; 48
Monastery, 55. 56
DIaeontlnnanee of. 88
Bells and Chimes :
Mylne, the architect, 57
Fielding, Sbnter, and Wood-
Bride's, S., 47
Painters resident, 66
waid, 88
Charterhonse, 44
Parliaments held, 55
Henumer at, 88
Christchureh,47
Phillips, Sir Richard, 57
Hone*a aeooont of tbe F»ir
Cloehard, Westminster, 44
Playhouse, 56
of 1830, 86
College and Cumberland
Shakspesre'd house, 56
Xady H«>lland*B Mob. 85
Tooths, 45
Railway Station. 67
Kensington, Lord, 88
Corftw, or Cknmre-fht, 48
Vandyok resided, 56
Morlef'a Memofn, 88
Historical bells, 46
Blackwall :
Origin oTthe Fair, 83
S. Leonard's, 47
Cabinet Fish Dinner, 58
Pie Poadre Coort, 88
London' Scholars^ 46
Chinese Junk exhibited, 58
Priory Fair, 83
8. Martin's. 47
Lpon Ship-building. 58
Prodamationa and Cool
a Marj-le-Bow, 46
Whitebait fishing, 57
Tankard, 88
8. MiohaelX 48
Blind School:
Pnnchinello and Poppet
Rector tolling in, 46
Day's Charity for Blind. 59
BbOWB, 84
Boyal Exchange chimes, 48
Origin of, 58
Rahere. or Bayer, 83
8. Paul's Cathedral, 45
Tudor School-house built, 58
:artholo]izw*8.S. Hospital:
8. Savioor's, 48
Work by the BUnd. 58
Corporation Management,
8. Sepulchre's, 48
Bbewebies :
86,87
8. Stephen's, 48
Barclay 8t Perkins's. CO
llenry YIII. ftmnded, 87
Societies of Ringers, 45
Globe Theatre site, GO
Ilogarth*a Painted Stair-
Westminster Palace Bells, 44
Johnson, Dr.. and Thrale,60
case, 88
Bermondset :
Meux 8t Co., 61
Origin of theHosplUl, 86
Beormnnd's Eye, or Island,
Lion Brewery, 61
liebullt. 86
49
Porter, origin of. 59
Samaritan Fond and View-
Leather Market, 50
Reld ft Co.. 61
day, 87
Monastery, fbunded, 49
Signs of Breweries, 63
)ATH8. Olddt:
Prise altar Picture, 49
Thrale's Brewery, 60
Agnes-le-aair, 87
Roman Catholic Conrent, 49
Truman, Hanbury.&Co., 61
Bagnio, Newfate street, 88
Skin Market, 50
Water for Brewing. 59. CO
Baths and Wash-hoascs, 89
Spa, old. 50
Whit bread's Brewery. 59
Cold Bath, Oerkenwell, 87
Brhlbm OB Bethlehem
Bbidewell Hospital:
Dulce*s,or Bagnio, 88
Hospital :
Bridewell Boys, CJ
FloaUng, 89
Arms of the Hospital, 54
Burial-plsce, 64
844
BsiDEiTELi. — eonHnutd.
ChamberUin'f, Citjr, JarU-
diction. 64
Charter picture, not hj Hol-
bein, 64
City Apprentices, reftmo-
torj, committed, 68
O>nfpregationftl Church, first,
eatftblidhed, 64
«FIoolc of Slaoghter,*' in
Bridewell, 64
Flo^ng loose pt^rsons, 63
Hogarth's Harioti Pro-
gress, 68
Hospital rebuilt, 6S
House of Occupation, 68
Lob's Pound, 68
Korman Palace, 63
Pictures, 64
Presented to the City by
Edward VI^ 62
Bridges:
Length, breadth, and cost, 71
Blackftiars Bridge :
Foundation-stone, 7S
Mylne, architecN 71
New Bridge, by Cubitt, 73
Suicides fh>m, 78
Chelsea Suspension, by Page,
74
Hammersmith Suspension, 74
Honcrerfbrd Suspension, built
by I. K. Brunei, 74
Lambeth Suspens^n, 7fi
London Bridge :
Bttdgell and Temple sui-
cides, 67
Cost of, 69
Described by Sir John
Rennie, 68
Fires, Insurrections, and
Sieges, 66
First Stone bridge, 65
Heads on the gate-honaes,
67
Houses on, 66
Iron from old pilea, 69
Norden*s View, 66
London, first, 65
Opened by William lY., 68
Osborne and the Leeds
family, 68
Peter of Colechureh, 65, 69
Hallway Bridgen, 72, 73, 74
Rebuilt by Rennie, 68
Trades, old, 67
Traffic, 69, 74
Waterworks, 67
Sonthwark Bridge :
Built of Iron, by John
Rennie, 78
Opened, 74
Yauxhall ;
Built of Iron, by Walker, 72
Waterloo Bridge :
Built by John Rennie, 78
Great cost of, 78
Opened, 78
Suicides from, 78
nwEX.
DaiDOBS — eon^'mied.
Westminster Bridge :
Labelye. engineer, 70
Lambeth Palace Feny, 69
New Bridge, by Page, 71
Wordsworth's Sonnet, 70
BUCKLEBSBCRT, 75
Barge-yard andWalbrook,75
Conduit, Great. 76
Horb-market, and Simplen,
75
Bdhhiij:. Fields :
Bunyan and Delbe buried
here, 77
Curirs Register of Inter-
ments, 75
Inscriptions, curious, 76
Leased to theCorporation,75
Origin of the name, 75
Persons of note buried here,
76,77
Plague burials, 76
Tindal's Lease, 76
CANONBDRY TOWER;
Canons of S. Bartholo-
mew, 78
Chambers and Goldsmith, 78
Spencer, Sir John, 78
CARTiif Gs IN Wood :
Canonbury House, 79
Chapel of Uenry VIL, 79
Cheapside, No. 108, 80
Cradle for Prince Arthur, 80
Crosby Hall, and S. Helen's.
Bishop^^ate, 79
Gibbons's carving, 79
Gog and Magog, Guildhall,
80
Halls of the City Com-
panies, 79
S. Mary-at-Hill Church, 80
S. Michael's Church, Corn-
hill, 80
Ormond-st, Queen-sq., 80
Pulpit of St Paul's, 79
SUte Coaches, 80
Temple Church and West-
minster Abbey, 80
Westminster Hall roof, 78
Westminster New Palace, 80
Wood earrings, 79
Cemeteries :
Abney Park, 83
Churchyards planted, 83
Evelyn proposed, 81
Highgate, 83
Jews' Burial-grounds, 83
Kensal Green, 81
Norwood, 89
Nunhead, 83
Victoria Park, 83
West London, 83
Chamcery-lane :
Chichester, Bishop's Palaee,
83
Lincoln's Inn gateway, 88
Name, 83
Serjeants' Inn, 83
Cn-
a
§7
U 57
Chakcrbt
Sonthamptm
Lord W. RBflKfi,s3
Walton, Imak, has
CHARiHa Cross:
Bermndas, the. &»
Ouialetti's Yiew. S4
Cherringe Tillage, U
DownfiEile qf Cikarms
84
Eleanor Cross, the. SS
Golden Cross Inn. 64
Hermitage and Hospstsl,
Statne of Charles L. S4
Payne, the
Prodamation^ 84
Tavema, 84
Charterhocse s
Burnet, Dr.
Garthosinns, emi
Chapel and Monnmenu, >t
Cbartertionse gionads ai
bnildiDips, 88
Charterhouse Monastery, u
EUxabcthan Chamber, u
Fags at Charterhoaae, $5
Hall, the Grent, 86
Harelock, Generml, S7
Hospital of KInie Jame^ S$
Manny, Sir Walter, 85
Poor Brethren, 87
Portraits, 87
Prior, the last, 85
School-rooms, S7
Sntton's estates. 68
Snttonis tomh, 85
Cheapside:
Barclay's hoose, 88
** Beaaty of Londoor 88
C%<pc, or Market, 88
Cross, Standard, and Ceo*
duit, 89
Joustings and Watches, »
Meroer8*& Saddlen'Hails,s»
Nag's Head Taven, 89
Wren, house designed by. 9
Chelsea:
Beaufort and Linds^ OK
Mansiona, 90
Blacklaads and Whi^
lands, 90
Cheyne, Lord, 90
Chnrehes, St. Luke's, 9d
Cremome Honse. 91
fire Fields, 91
Highwaymen at, 91
Littie Chelsea, 91
Manor, 89
Masaiin, Duchess of, 90
More, Sir Thomas, man^iflB
of, 90
Origin of Name, 89
Saltero's
Coifeehottse, 90
Signs, curious, 91
Sloane, Sir Hans, 90
Turner, the painter, desth
of. 91
Waterworks, 91
— ^ — _
Moaeom, sad
• INDEX.
845
CZ^BA. Sifirs:
lan-bouae. Old, 91
:orioaitie« of, 9S
jteoriffe II. and III., and
their Qu«en8, 91
Swift and Stella, 91
KLAEJi. PORCELAIHt
Aow porcelain, 94
Dr. Jolinaon** ezperimenti,
94
llanaflustory, 94
R.aLTe Bpedmeiis, 94
[£88 Ce^OSS:
Philidor, 95
St. Oeorce's, London, Di-
▼ana, Panloe's, Saloplar,
Slao^bter^ 95
iRimc^ Hospital;
Abnaea, ailaged, 100
Beqneata, early, 96
Blae-oont girl, 97
^ Blue Coat School,'* 96
Blnea, eminent, 99
Charity to the BUnd, 101
Clolaten of Hoapital, 100
I>rawlnK-room preaenta-
tkma, 99
£dward YI., grant ihm, 96
£xtaibttloni for Soholar-
ahipe,99
Foundation of, 95
QirU* Sohool, Hertford, 101
Oranta fhrni Henry VIIL,95
Grey Frlan' monaateiy, 96
HaU, Great, 97
Hertford csubliahment, 101
Hoepttal, originally, 96
Hoaplta] reboilt, 97
Income, 100
library, 100
IJTery or Dress, 96
MathematiealSdiool, 97
Orations, 98
Penmauhip, 99
Pictures, 98
Pkvaentatlons, and Goros
nors, 101
President, election of; 101
Beports, 100, 101
Ridley, Biahop, 96
Spital Sermons, 99
Sappings in PabUc, 98
Writing School, 97
CHArsLS, DismmsBS :
AlUoo, Moorgate, 919
Baptiat, Little WUdntt, 819
Baptist, Bloonsbmy-st, 319
Baptist, Netting Dale, 919
Caledonian, Hatton Garden,
919
CanoDlmry, blington, ISO
Catholic and Apostollo, Gcr-
don-sqnare, 390
Congregational, lUntish
Town, 830 .
Xsscx^trset, Stnuid, 880
Blghtaiy, 830
Iadependentjangiland,880
Jcirla.it, Aldanfate, 880
Chapbls — oonHmud.
Horayian, Fetter-lane, 830
National Scotch Choreh,
Coyent Garden, 331
Old Gravel-pit, Hackney,391
Oxendon, Hay market, 331
Presbyterian, Hackney. 324
Presbyterian, Newington-
green, 331
PtoTidence, l[arylebone,831
PtOTidence, Gray *s-inn-lane,
831
Begent's-sqoare, GrayVinn-
• road, 333
Scotch Church, Swallow-
street. 333
South-place, Finsbury, 838
Spa-fields, 833
Stepney Meeting, 888
Surrey, 838
Swedenborg Church, Ar-
gyle-square, 338
Tabernacle, Metropolitan,
338
Tabemade, Moorflelds, 838
Trinity Independents, Pop-
lar, 334
TTnlted Presbyterian, 834
Unity Church, Islington, 334
Welgh-house, Pish-street-
hill,334
Wesleyan, aty-road, 384
Wesleyan,Kentlsh-town,835
Wesleyan, Great Qoeen-
street,335
Wesleyan. Liverpool-rd^ 835
Whitefleld*s Tabemacle,Tot-
tenham-court^nL, 335,790
Zoar (Banyan's) Southwark,
836
Gbapbls, Episcopal :
Asylum for Female Or-
phans, 809
8. Bartholomew's, Klnga-
land, 909
Bedfordbury, 809
Bentinek, Chapel-street,
New-road, 310
CharlotU (I>odd*s), Pimlioo^
810
Doke^t, Westminiter, 810
Foundling Hospital, Guil-
ford-street, 310
Gray*s-Inn, 811
GrosYcnor, South Aadley-
strset,811
Banover, Rageat-street, 811
House of Charity, Soho, 811
8. James's, Hampstead-road,
818
8. James's, Pentonyilla, 818
S. John's, Bedford-row, 818
Kentish-town, 818
King's College, 318
& John's Wood, 818
Lamb, Monkwell-st, 818
Leadenhall, 808
Lincoln's Inn, 818
8. Luke's, Fnlham-raad, 818
Chapei.8 — conUimed.
Magdalen HospitiU, Black*
fiiars-road, 318
Margaret-street, 318
& Mark's, North Audley-
street. 314
S. Mark's, Fulhsm-rd., 814
Percy, Charlotte-street, 314
S. Peter*s, Qaeen-sq., 314
S. Peter's, Vere-street, 314
S. Philip's, Regent-st, 315
Portland, Great Portland-
street, 315
Quebec Quebec-street, 315
Bagged Chnrob, 315 .
Bolls, Chancery-lane, 815
Tenison's, Begent-st^ 315
Trinity, Conduit-street, 816
Trinity, KnighUbridge,316
Tork-st., St. James's, 816
Churches, Fokeigit Pbo-
TESTAMT :
Dutch, Austin Friars, 316
Fkench, 317
SsToy, 317
Swiss, 317
BoxAif Catholic Chubcbes
AKD Chapels:
Ambassadors' Chapels, 839
Bavarian, Warwick-st^ 339
a George's, S. Geoige'd
Fields, 380
Immaculate Conception,
Farm-street, 880
Italisn, Hatton-wall, 381
S. John of Jerusalem, Great
Ormond-street, 380
8. John, Erangelist, iBling-
ton, 381
& Mary's, Moorflelds, 881
S. Monica's, Hoxton, 888
Oratory, Brompton, 883
Our Lady%, S. John's-wood,
883
& Patrick's, Sntton-st, 383
Sardinian, Lincohi'S - Inn
Fields, 388
Spanish, Spanish-pL, 888
Cbubchxs op Lohdoh :
Bishop of London^ Fond,
108
Churches destroyed in the
Great Fire, and not re-
built, 103
City Churehei, great num-
ber of, 108
Metropolis Chorehes Fund,
108
Middle Ages, 108
Queen Anne Churches, 108
Saxon, 101
Wren*s churehes, 108
8. Paul's, Old :
Bankes's Hone, 106
Cloisters, Dance of Death,
104
Conversion of S. Paul, An*
nivenaiy, 104
Dimensions of cathedral, 104
846
INDEX,
Ihik« Hiiiiiphre7'«Tomb,106
St Faith's and Gregory'^
drarehes, 104
nnt aod 8«ooBd Cbucbci,
a Paul*!, 104
Gnst Fin ni 16«« 107
lOnclea, Penanoei, and
Sbiinea, 10ft
MoQunenta, 105, 106, lift
Faal*8 or Powly'sOroM, 10ft
Faol*fe Jaokt, 106
Faults Walk. 106
Portioo. by Inlgo Jones, 107
Bains cleared, 107
Spire burnt, 104
& Pavl*s:
Adnisskm monej, 116
BaU and Cross, 116
Chapter-honse, 116
Oook and Great Bell, lit
OTpt, 118
Dbneoskms of eathedral,! 1 7
Dome, Tliomhill*B Plctores,
114
Exterior, 109
Fabric Fond, n7
Festirals, 116
F.rst stone laid by CSiarles
II.. 108
Galleries, Onter, 116
GraTe of Wren, 118
Gronnd-plan, 109
Chrilt, Joseph, on, 110
Heights, 110
Homer*0 Sketches from, 1 15
Model-room, 111
Monnments, 112
Nelson*s Tomb, 118
Order against Swearlng,109
Ofgaas, 113
Painted Windows, 117
Patnters* Oomer, 118
Picton*8 remains, 114
Plot against Qoeen Anne,
109
Position of Old and New
Cathedrals, 108
Se^leeoratlon, 117
Seenred from Llghtnlng,110
State Processions, 116
▼lews, 116. 117
Welling^n^ Funeral and
Tomb. 114
Wellington's FnnersI Ca.*,
exhibition of, 114
Whispering Gsllery ex-
plained, 111, 113
Wightwick on the arehlteo-
tnre,lll
Wren's Design, and Model,
107
Westminster Abbey :
Admeasurements, 189
Altar-painting, carfcms
early, 124
Ambulatory, 12ft
Ancient Bemains described,
120
Chubches — ooRlteHadL
Centenary, Eightli, Celebra-
tion of, 140
Ckapeli: Abbot IsUp**, 136 ;
S. Benedict's, 184; S.
Blaise's, 138; S. Ed-
mund's, 134 : Edward the
Confessor's, 137 ; a Eras-
mos's, 137; Henry YIL's,
136 1 a John Baptist's,
138; a Nicholas's, 13ft;
8. Paul's, 137
Chapter-house, OoisterB.
Korth Transept, South
Side, Western Front, 131
Chapter-house described, 1 3 6
Choir, Monuments, and
PaTements, 181, 189
Choir reiitted, 183
Choir Screen, 184
Cloisters, Monuments, 187
Coronations in the Abbey
Chvroh, 188
Coronation crf'GeorgelV.l 88
Coronatioa of Queen Vic-
toria, 188
Coronation Chain, 1 80
Domesday Book, 187
Edward the Confessor, 118
EUaabeth, Queen, reor-
ganises, 130
Exterior Views, 130
Fees fbr Monuments, 188
Foundation, 117, 118
GraTCstones in South I^an-
sept, 138
Ground-plan. 131, 134
Henry III. rebuilds, 118
Interior described, 131
Jerusalem Chamber, 186
libraiy of the Dean and
Chapter, 186
LitUngton's buildings, 119
Litllngton Tower, 187
Metal work and Brasses, 189
Models, Tarlons, 187
Musical Festivals, 188
Nave and its monuments,
184, 18ft
Nave rebuilt, 119
North Transept, Monuments
In, 180, 181
Organs described, 188
Painted and Stained Glass,
188
St. Peter, dedication to,119
Poets' Comer, Tombs In,
133, 138
Pulpit, new, 185
Remains, most ancient, 120
Sanctuary, 119
Seberfk Church, 117
Shrine of Edward the Con-
fessor, 139, 180
Shrine of Henry V., 139
Spur-money, 136
Stanley, Dean, on West-
minster Abbey, 189, 140
Tabletsto Qoeen Mary, 136
Tombs, oeiebratod. lis
818
Chapel Boyal, Si. Ji
Children of
Boyal, 141
Choral service, 140
Holbein^ ceOiaff. 140
Spur Money, 141
Ck(^ Bojfoi, SoBO^z
Altar^soreen. 144
Architecture, 143
Chiistmas-day^
Fires and Beetomtiani*. m
Grant of Henry IIL. 142
Persons of note boned, i is
Prison of the Scroy; 144
Boyal Closet, 149
Boyal Fttatiag'pnm, I4i
Rnbens's'ccili^s, 142
Savoy Marriages, 143
Schools at the 8av<7, 143
ChHwl Boyal. Whitehall:
Boyle Leeturea, 143
Hospital^ 14t
Maundy diatrflmtkm, 143
Not consecrated, 141
Chnrehca:
S. Alban's, Baldwin'k Gsr-
dens. 144
& Albania, Wood-street,
Cheapside, 146
AllhaUowi Barking, Grest
Tower-street, 14ft
Allhsllows, Bread-at.l4«
AllhsUowB, Great and Jjm,
Upper Thamcj atieet, 14S
Allhsllows, Hon^4aae,l4«
Allhallows, Lombard-aL,14C
AUhaUows Statating, Mart-
lane, 146
Allhallows'ln - the - Wal,
Broad-streetWard, 147
AU Saints, Biahopsgate. 147
AH Saint*, Knfghbfaidge.
147
AU Sainta, Lambeth. 147
All Souls, I^mghamrjiL. 147
All Saints. Margaret«L,147
All Saints, Poplar4ane. 14 »
S. Alphage, Xrfmdon W&Ii,
149
S. Andrew's, Si^giljiid-
road, 149*
S. Andrew's Holbon, 149
S. Andrew's Undershsft,
LeadenhaU-street, 150 ;
Stow, sketch of. 150
S. Andrew by the Ward-
robe, Castle Bi^ard, li9
8. Andrew's, WeUs-st, li&
S. AnnelB, Blaekfrisrs, l^
8. AnnelB. limeboose, isf
S. Anne's. Spho. Iftl
S.AnthQny's3Qdge-row.lsi
S. Augustine's, WstHag-
street, Iftl
& Banabas, Plmlioob Iftl
INDEX.
847
amabafl, £dgwBre-rd.,
•2
artholomcw by the Fx-
imnge, 162
Bartholomew tbe Great,
52
tartholomew the Less,
&3
enet,Gimoechiireh<8treet,
53
lennet Fink, 164
tennct, Paurs-wharf, 16 i
tennet Sherehog, 164
Botolpli*8, Aldgate, 154
Botolph*s, Bishopsgate,
154
w ehureli, see 8. Mary-
e-Bow
Bride's, Fleet-stieet, 166
Itlsh and Foreign Sailors*,
Welldoee-square, 166
.mden Church, Camber-
well, 166
Catherine Cree, Leaden-
halUtreet, 166
Chad, Haggerston, 166
irist Church, Westminster,
166
tirist Churdh,Clapham, 167
tirist Chnroh, FiocadiUy,
167
hrist Church* Highbury,
167
hrist Church, Newgate-
street, 167: Bpital Ser-
mons, 167
nirist Chureh, Poplar, 157
nirist Church, SpitaUields,
167
I Clement's, Eastcheap, 168
). Clement's Danes, 168
3. Clement's, Islington, 169
S. Clement*s,Bamsbnry , 169
^ Dionis Backehuroh, 169
S. Dnnstan'a-in- the -East,
Tower-street, 169
B. DonitanVin-the-West,
Vleet-stieet, 169
B. Danstan's, Stepney, 161
8. Ednand's, (King and
Martyr), Lombard-tt., 161
B. Ethelbttiga1,Bi8hopsgate-
Btreet, 161
& Ethelreda's, Ely-pL, 161
8. George's, Kensington, 163
& Oeorge'SiHsnorcr-sqnare,
162
8. George's in the East,
Bstcliff Highway, Baine's
Mairisgt Charity, 16S
8. George's, Qneen-eq., 163
8. George the Martyr,
QiMen-iq., 168
8. George the Martyr,
8outhvark,168
8. GUei'i, Csmberwell, 168
8. Glleil, Cripplegate, 168
8. GileiVln'the-flelds, 164
Chvrchss — eotUkmed,
S. Gregory by S. Paul's, 165
8. Hekn*^ Bishopsgate, 166
8. Katharine's, Begent's-
park, 166
8. James's, Aldgate, 167
8. James's, Clerken well, 168
& James's, Gariiok Hithe,
168
8. James the Less, West-
minster, 168
8. James's, FiooadUly, 169
8. James's, Shorediteh, 171
8. James's, Bermondsey , 171
8. John's, Hackn^, 171
& John's, Bethnal Green,171
S.«lohn's,ClerkenweU: Cock-
lane Ghost, 171
8. John the Erangelist,
Charlotte-street, Fitzroy-
sqnare, 171
8. John the Erangelist,
Horselydown, 171
8. John the ETangelist,
Westminster, 171
8. John the Erangeliit,
Waterloo-road, 173
8. John of Jerusalem, South
Hackney, 173
8. John's, Notting-hiU, 173
8. John's, Oxfbrd-sqoare,
Paddlngton, 173
8. Jude's, Gray's-inn-road,
178
8. Lawrence Jewry, King-
street, Cheapside, 178
8 Leonard's, Eastcheap, 178
8. Leonard*^ Shorsditoh,
178
8. Luke's,Edgware-road,174
8. Lnke'E(Old), Chelsea, 174
8. Luke's (New), Chel8ea,l 76
8. Luke's, Old-street-road,
176
8. Magnus the Martyr,
London Bridge, 176
8. Margaret's, Lothbury,176
8. Margaret Pattens, Fen-
chureh-ttreet, 176
& Margaret's, Westminster :
Greneer's Box and
Painted Window, 177—
179
8. Mark's, Kennlngton (Com-
mon, 179
& Mark's, Old-street-road,
179
a Mark's, Victoria Dooka,
179
a Martin<k-in-the-Flc]da,
Strand, 179
a MarUa's, Gospel Oak
Fielda, 180
a Martin's, Ironmonger-
lane, 180
8. Martin Orgar, Eastcheap,
161
8. Martin's Outwich, Bl-
shopsgate-atreet, 181
Churches — continued,
a Mary Abbots, Kenaing*
ton, 181
a Mary Abchureh, Ab-
chnreh-lane, 183
8. Mary Aidermary, Bow-
laae, 183
a Mary's, Battersea, 183
8. Ma^-le-Bone, High-st,
188
8.MaryleboneJ7ew-road,198
8. Mary-le-Bow, Cheapeide,
188
a Mary's, Islington, 184
8. Mary's, Lambeth, 186
8. Mary-at-Hill, Eastcheap,
185
a Mary Magdalene, Ber-
mondsey, 186
8. Mary Magdalen, Mnn-
ster-sqnare, 186
8. Mary Magdalen, Old Fish-
street, 186
a Mary Matfek>n, White-
chapid, 186
8. Mary's, Newlngton-bntta»
187
a Mary's, Paddington, 187
8. Mary's, Botherhitbe. 187
a Mary Somerset, (^neen-
bithe, 187
8. Mary's, Stoke Newingtoo,
187
aMary-le-Strand, 188
a Mary's, Wyndham-pl^ 188
8. Mary Woolnoth, Lom-
bard-street, 188
a Matthew's, BethnaV
green, 189
a Matthew's, City-road, 189
8. Matthias's, Stoke New-
Ington, 189
a Matthew's, Brixton, 189
8. Michael and All Angels,
Finsbury, 190
a Michael Bassishaw, Ba^
singhall-etreet, 190
8. Michael's, Pimlico, 190
8. Michael's, Comhill, 190
8. Michael's, Crooked-lane,
191
aMichaelFatemoeterBoyal,-
Upper Thames-st., 191
a Michael'8,Queenhithe,193
a Michael's. Wood-st, 193
S. Mildred's, Bread-et, 193
S. Mildred's, Poultry, 193
8. NIcholaa Cole Abbey,
Fish-street- hill. 193
a Olave'a. Hart-street, 193
a Olave's, Jewry, 183
8. Olave's, Tooley*st., 198
a Pancras-in-the-Fields,l 93
8. Pancras,£uston-road, 194
S.Pauri,St. Joiin's- wood.1 06
8. ^ul's, Camden New
Town, 196
S.Paul'S.Corent Garden,196
8. Paul's, HernchlU, 196
84S
nwEX.
S. Paal's, LoiTliiioR-«qiUff«,
WaI worth, 196
8. Paul's, fbr Maaen, !•«
& Panics, Sh«4well, 196
& Panl'a^KnifbUbridge, 197
& PeCtf's. BeUUe-park, 197
8. Peter'to, CornhUl. 197
8. Peter'H, PimUeo, 197
8. Peter's, SaAron-hUl, 197
a P6Ccr*t, Bankikle, 197
& Pcter-le-Poor, OU Bioad.
•treet, 197
8. Fetei't, Yanxhall, 197
8. Peter ad Yiociila, Tower,
198
& Peter^Walworth-rd^ 198
& Peter's, Great Windnill-
street,L99
8. Sarioar's, Clapham Gon-
mun, 199
8. 8aTkMir*B, Hoxton, 199
8. 8aTioar*8, Soathwark, 199
8. 8epiachre*s, Skinner-et.
8. SiflBon's, Chelsea, SOS
8^tephcn's,Co)e]nan-at,908
8. Stephen the Martyr,
Portland-town, 90S
8. Stephen the Msrtjr,
WestoUnster. 208
S.Stephen'fe, SpitallleldB. 204
8. Stephen's, Walbrook,304
& Swithin's, London Stone,
908
Temple Choreh, 208
& Thomas the Apostle, 907
8. Thonias,CharterboaM,908
a Thomas's, South wark. 208
Trinity, Albany-street, 208
Trinity, Brompton, 208
Trintty,Gray*s Inn-road,208
Trinity. HaTerBtock-hill,208
Trinity, Holy, llinories, 206
Trinity, Paddington, 908
Trinity,yanxhaUBridge,908
a Yedast's, Foster-lane, 909
Towers and Spires, 209
CRT Walls and Gateb:
Aldgate, Alderfsr^te, Bi-
shopsgate, Cripplegate,
Lndgate, Newgate, 283
Oty and UberUes, 985
Cripplegate Bastion, 284
Gates, position of. 384, 288
London, derivation, 388,286
London destroyed by the
Great Fire, 286
Lodgate Statues, 388
Korman Wall, 284
Boman Wall, 238, 384, 386
Clerkenwell :
Bagnigge Wells, 287
Britton, the Ifusieal Small-
ooal Man, 2S6
Qerics* Well, 236, 337
Cobham-row and Cold Bath-
sqaare, 288
Hicks*s Hall, 287
HocUey-in>the.Hole. 387
a John's Gate, 236
Keweastle, Dake of, 286
Oldeastle. Sir John, 288
Pinks's iKMory qf Clarkm-
«pieB,288
Priory Church, 286
Bed Bon Theatre, 286
Watch andaockmakiog,388
Cum ATE OF LONDOIf:
Change of Air, 289
Howard on, 288
Smoke, 239
Temperatnre, 288
Winds, effect of, 289
Cldbb and CLUB-Honsis :
Alfi«d, 240
Almack*8, 240
Alpine, 240
ApdUo, 240
Army and Navy, 241
Arts. 241
Arthur^s, 241
Athenseom, 341
Athensram, Junior, 242
Beef-«teak CInb, 248
Beef-ftteak Society, 248
Blue-stocking Club, 248
Boodle's, 242
British and Foreign Insti-
tnte.244
Brooks*s, 248
Brothers* aab, 344
Carlton, 244
Carlton, Junior, 360
Cavendish, 244
aty, 244
aty. New, 344
CivU Service, 344
Ovil, 245
Cliffbrd-street, 346
Club Chambers, 245
CHube, origin of, 389
Cocoa-tree, 246
Conservative, 246
County. 246
Coventry House, 346
Crodkford's (Crockford*s ca-
reer, note), 246
Dilettanti Society, 347
EastIndiannitedScrvioe,S47
Ecoentrie, 248
Eccentrics, the, 348
Erechtheinm, 348
Essex Head, 248
Farmers*, 348
Fielding, 249
Fonr>in-hand, 349
Ganrick, (Fletores), 949
Gresham, 250
GiillionX 360
Guards, 250
Independents, 960
Ivy-lane, 260
King of Clnbs, 360
Kit-Kat (PietnreeX 960
Law Institution, 361
literaiy Qab, 361
Mermaid, 863
Mulberries, S63
Museum, 363
National. 263
Naval, Boyal, 36S
Naval and Military, 2»I
Noviomagians. 363
October, 363
Oriental; 363
Oxford and Cnmliridse. !i3
PallMall.Club-ho«ise8 ia,:»
Parthenon, 364
Phoenix, 354
Portland. 364
Prince of WalesV. 364
Beform, 364
Befbrm, Junior, 366
Bobin Hood. 36d
BoU, or CofEee dub, 366
Boxburghe, 366
Boyal Society Club, SM
Koyal Thames Tadit. 231
Scribleros, 366
Smithlield, 366
Thatched House, 367
Tom*s Coffee-home, 367
Travellers', 367
Treason, 2&8
Union, 268
United Serrice, 368
United Senriee, Jonior, 368
University, 369
Universities Union, 369
Urban, 369
Volunteer Servioe. 369
Watier's, 369
Wednesday, 369, 360
Westminster. 360
Whist aub, 360
White*s, 360
Whittington. 361
Windham, 361
COFFEE-HOCSES:
BakerX361
Baltic, 361
Bedford, 861
British, 363
Button's, (Uon<lB Head). 362
Chapter, 268
Chihlli. 364
Cliiford-etreet, 364
Cocoa-tree, 364
Coffee first drank In t-t^^
261
CofTee-ebops, 378
Dick's, 264
Garraway's. 366
George's, 364
Gray's, Junior, 366
Grecian, 364
8. James's, 866
Jamaica, 366
Jerusalem, 366
Jonathan's, 366
Langboum, 366
Lloyd's, 266
Lond<», 267
Man%267
Mllcs*8, 367
INDEX.
849
C0TTEX-HOU8E8 — continued.
Monday's, 267
I7ando*8, 867
ITew England, 267
I*eele*8, 267
^erey^ 268
fUzjM, 268
Sainbow, 268
£altero*fl, at Chelaea, 268
fiam'fl, 268
Serle's, 270
SUughterX 270
Smyrna, 270
Somenet, 270
Sqaire*B, 270
Tom*8, 271
Tom King's, 271
Turk's Head, 271
WlU'a, 272
WiU's, Serle-ftreet, 278
COI«X<EOKS:
8. Barnabas, 278
Chnroh of England Tnia-
ing. 278
Clinrch Missionary, 273
Chemistry, 278
I>nlwicb, 274
Gresham, 274
Heralds', 275
KJnf^'s College and Scboolfl,
276
8. Mark's, 277
Kew Collage, 277
I*by8icians, 277
Preceptors, 279
Qneen's, 279
8ion, 279
Soxgeons, 279
University, 280
Wesleyan Normal, 280
CoiiOaSEUM:
Classio Enins, 288
Conserratoriea and Bwin
Chalets, 282
Construction, 280
Cost of; 288
A>mor, planned by, 280
Le Colis^ at Paris, 281
London by Nlgbt, 282
Panorama of Londoiit
painted, 281
Farris, Mr., 281, 282
Sketches from S. Paul's, 281
Theatre and Cyolorama, 288
View described, 282
C0LDMH8 :
Columns, principal dimen-
sions oC 888
Nelson; baa relieft, oon-
stmotioii, scaflolding, and
statoe, 288, 284
THilUgar-sqnare, 288
York Cdamn, Carlton-car-
dens,288
Common CoimciL:
Charchili's satire, 287
Costume, 286
Court at Goildball, 287
Nombcnoi; 286
Common Covvca*~-€onUnued,
Origin of; 286
Wards, 286
Conduits:
Bayswater, 287
Canonbory, 287
Cheapside, 287
Condait-mead, 287
ComhlU, 287
Dalston and Islington, 288
Fleet-street, 288
8. James's, 288
King's-mewa, 289
Kensington, 288
Lamb's, 288
6tofr*s aoconnt of, 287
Tyburn, 288
Westminster Abbey, 289
Westminster Palace, 289
CONYKNTS:
Colleges, Fraternities, Friar-
ies, Hospitals, Nunneries,
Priories, 289, 290
Bevivals, 290
Sisters of Mercy, Bermond-
sey, 290
Taking of the Veil, 290
CORNHILL:
Birchin k> Flnoh-lanea, 291
Birch, the cook and con-
fectioner, 291
Change-alley and Garra-
way's, 291
Church of S. Christopher-le-
Stocks, 290
Guy ;the stationer, 292
Lottery prize, 291
Boman remains, 291
Royal Exchange, 291
Standard and Tun, 290
Tarems, early, 291
CovENT Garden :
Butler, epitaphs on, 295
Clay's Papier M6M, 296
Convent burial-ground and
garden, 292
Dryden cudgelled, 296
Erans's Hotel, 294
Garrick Cln^ 298
Hollar's Tiew, 298
Hotels and Tayems, 298
King-at. and Bose-at., 298
Maiden*lane, Marrell, Tur-
ner, and Voltaire, 296
Market first held, 298
8. Paul's church, 292
Phosphorus first made, 298
Piazza, Inigo Jones'^, 293
Besidents of note, 298
Sonthampton-atreet, 298
Tavistock-row and Misa
Beay, 298
Cbane-Coort :
Circulating Libraries, 297
Leach, the printer of Wilkes*
North Briton^ 296
Nursery fiv Newspapers, 297
Boyal Society and Scottiah
Hospital, 296
Crosby Hall :
Architecture of, 298
Crosby, Sir John, 297
Mayoralties kept here, 297
More, Sir Thomas, 287
Musical memories, 298
Presby terianMeeting-houae,
296
Bestoration in 1842, 298
Bichard, Duke of Gloucea-
ter, 297
Boof of the Hall, 298, 299
Shakspeare in S. Helen's,
297
Spencer, Sir John, 298
Statue of Sir J. Crosby, 299
Crutched Friars:
Crouched or Crossed, 299
Drapers* Almshouses, ^9
Jewry-st^ old Wall in, 300
Northumberland House, 299
Boman occupation, 299
Crtpts:
S. Bartholomew's, 800
Bishopsgate Within, 300
Bow Church, 800
S. Ethelreda's, 801
Garraway's, 801
Gerard's Hall, 801
Guildhall, 801
^ Guy Fawkes's Cellar,*' 801
Hostelry of the Priors of
Lewes, 802
S. John's, Clerkenwell, 802
Lambeth Palace, 802
Lamb's Chapel, 802
LeatheraeUers' Hall, 808
London Bridge, old, 800
8. Martin's-le-Grand, 808
8. Mary Aldermary, 803
Merchant Tailors' HaU, 808
8. Michael's, 803
8. Paul's, 303
8. Stephen's, Westminster
Palace, 804
Tower of London, 804
CuRiooTT Shops:
Canrings, Chhia and Ena-
mels, Church Furniture,
Painted Glaas, and Metal
Works, 294
Hanway-atreet and War-
dour-street, 304
Ireland's Shakspeare For-
geries, 308
8am House and Fox, 808
CUSTOM-HODSK :
Coostraction of, 808
Daily report, 806
Exports and Imports, 806
Fifth Custom-house, 806
Great oort of, 805
Interior described, 808
Qneen'b Warehouse, 806
DAGUEBBEOTTPE •
First experiments in Eng-
land, 806
London Atmosphere, 806
8 I
850
INDEX,
Dbap akd Dumb Astlum:
Emplosrmeat, S07
Flnt esUblUhed, 807
Diorama akd CkMoioBAMA t
Baptist Chapel, SOS
Connoruna described, 308
Diorama described, 807
Dioramas, yarioos* 808
Docks :
Ckimmerclal, 808
East iDdia, 809
Grand Surrey, 810
8. Katharine*s, 810
London, 810, 811 : Qoeen^s
Tobacco Warehouse and
Pipe, 811
MiUwaU, 811
Victoria, 811
West India, 81S
Doctors' Commons:
Admiralty Court, 318
Court of Arches, 313
Divorce Court, 818
Origin of the Commons, 813
Prero^tive Court: Wills
and Marriages, 818
Begistries of the Court of
Probate: CetebratedWOls,
Perusal and Copy of WlUs,
814, 813
DOMESDAT-BOOK :
Described, 314
S. Giles's Domesday, 316
London, not in, 816
Where kept, 816
DRDRT-LaNE :
Coal-yard and Kell Gwynne,
816
Cock and Pye, 316
Cockpit, 316
Craven House and Drury
House, 816
Sixteenth Century, 816
Theatres, 316
EARTHQUAKES IN
LONDON: 1692, 1760,
1766, 1761, 1843 (hoaz),
1863,— 816,317
Eastcheap :
Antiquity of, 317
Boar*8 Head TaTem, 817,
818
Saxon Market, 817
East India Hoosb:
East India Company, 819
First House, 318
Museum, 319
Pictures and Statues, 318
Bebuilt, 318
Soman Remains, 819
Sale of Materials, 319
Tesselated Pavement, 819
Egtfti AK Hall ;
Bullock's Museum, 320
Exhibitions, fh>m 1816 to
present time, 820, 321
Elt-Place :
Bishops of Ely, 881
ElT'PLAcb — coniiivu/ed.
Ely, Bishop's House, Dorer-
8treet,823
Gardens and Vine-yard, 833
Hatton Garden, 323
John of Gaunt died, 381
Ibsqne, Inns of Court, 389
Religious Mystery, 823
Seijeants' FeasU, 321
Sir Christopher Hatton, 391
Strawberries grown, 831
EZCHAM GES :
Coal Exchange: Coal Supply
of London, 829; Interior
described, 330; RebuUt,
829 ; Polychrome devices,
330 ; Roman remains, 880
Com Exchanges, Mark-lane,
830
King's Exchange, 380
Old 'Change, 380
New Exchange, Strand, 831 *,
Don Pantaleon Sa, 331 ;
Monk, Duke of Albemarle,
and Anne Clarges, 831;
White Milliner, 331
EZCBANGB, ROTAL t
First Exchange, 332, 323:
Bnrse in ComhiU, 328;
Gresham family, 833,
888 ; Gresham'B Shop in
Lombard-street, 328;
Great Fire destroys
ttie first Exchange,394 ;
HoDar'B print, 1644,
824; Pawn, origin of,
333 ; Pictures and Sta-
ines, 388 ; Queen Eliza-
beth opened the first
Exchange, 333.
Second Exchange:
Burning of the Exchange,
1888, 826 ; Charles IL
founds and opens the
second Exchange, 324 ;
Chimes, 326; Gibber's
sculpture, 824, 336 ; In-
scription and Decora-
tions, 326; Insurance
calculations, 336 ; Inte-
rior— ^Merchant's Area,
82 7*,Jerman*sExcbange,
334 ; LordMayor'sCourt
Office, 336 ; Salvage
Sale, 386; Stotne of
Gresham, 386
TUid Exchange:
Ambulatories, 387 ; Ane-
mometer and Rain-
gauge, 828; Architec-
tund oljects, fine, 829 ;
Bally, Francis, F.R.S.,
338 ; Chart-room, 838 ;
Clock and Chimes, 336 ;
Cost of Rebuilding, by
W.Tite, r.R.S., 829;
East Front, 326; En-
larged, 331, 338; Epi-
sodes, 833 ; Lloyd*s Re-
gister, 399 ; Lkiydli
Subseoiption Roans,
838 ; Medal, commemo-
rative, 839 ; Nortli and
South ftooto, 837 ; No-
table PerBOBa,328 ; Poi^
tico, Gveai West, 336;
Politieal Hoaxes, 333;
Queen Ytotoria opois
the third Kxchange.
386; "Romaii Kemsim
on the site. S36 ; Site,
331; Strntoeof Qmcb
Yiotoria, 339 ; Statees,
Royal, 896; Systesi,
332; Tines' Testinio-
nial, 838; Yooalmlaiy.
832
Stock Exchange, 881
EZCHARGE-ALLET :
Alley in 1700, 838
Bubble Cards, 888
South-Sea Bubb^ 838
Excise OmcB :
Site of Gresham College, 833
Remoral of, 888
System of Excise, 884
ExbtxrHall:
May Meetings, 884
Orchestra, 834
SaeredHarmonleSociety,334
Exeter House and Euteb
'Change:
Burleigh House, 886
Chapel, 836
The *Change, 886
** King of Exeter KThaage,*
886
Menagerie, Pfdooek, PoUto,
and Cross, 836
New Exeter 'Change, 386
FTTER-LANE:
Brothers Barebones, 336
Brownrigg, Mrs., 836
Diyden and Hobbea, S36
Malcolm, Sarah, the mur-
deress, 886
Record OfBoe, New, 836
White Horse Inn, 886
Field-Laxe:
Described by Dtckens, 336
Old Chick-lane and Thieres*
lodging-honse, 837
Field or Fobtt Fooi^
Brothers' DneL 887
S. Jtim Baptist's Dsy, 337
Legendary Story of the
Forty Footsteps, 337
Porter, Misses, romance, SS7
Sovth^^ aecoont ^ 337
FiNSBUET :
AnUqntty of. 887
Bunhm Fields, 838
Finsbury, by Aggae, 338
Lord Mayor, title of, 338
Prebend of Finsbniy, 336
INDEX,
851
S*IBE Brigade :
Curfew rang out, 841
Fire Engines, 848
Fire PoUoe, 1668,In8iiruice,
Offioe, 84S
Fire in Steplien's reign,
S41
Fire Watch or Guard, 849
Metropolitan Fire Brigade,
848
Squirts or Syringes, 843
Steam Fire-Engines, 848
Telegrapbic oonunuidcatlon,
843
'Wardmote^s orders, 841
Fms OF LONDOIf :
Eveljn and Pepys describe,
838, 889
HoUar^ Yiew, before and
after, 840
lilmits, 839
Ixws estimated, 889
Origin of, 889
Pudding-lane, 888
Fjbks, Memorable, 840, 841
Fi«CET Prison :
Bambridge and Hoggins,
844
I>anee*s Humown qf the
Fleet, ZAii
Fleet Marriages, 846
Hooper, Bishop, 844
SEowel, LQbarne, and
Frynne, 844
Notable Persons Imprisoned
here, 846
Biotsof 1760, 846
Sales and Day Bnles, 846
Beceiving Box, 848
Flxet River and Fleet
DrrcH:
Bridges across, 847
Coarse of the Fleet, 847
Coal Yaolts, 848
Ditch deepened, 847
Jhmdad and CUy Shower ^
847
Fleet Market, 848
Sewer, Great, 848
Ships in Fleet-river, 847
Flxet-gtreet :
Alsatia, 849
BanUng-honses, old, 851
Bolt-coort, 850
Bolt-in-Tun, 850
Bride, Shoe, and Water
lanes, 849
Baraing of the Pope, 86S
Chatterton and Lovelace,
849
Chaucer and Cowley, 868
Child's banking-hoase,851
Cobbett in Bolt-coort, 858
Cock Tavern, 853
CoiTee-hooses and Taverns,
352
Cogers' Hall, 849
Crane-ooart, 396
Dentists, old, 851
FLEET-8TREBT— -COntiRtted.
Devil Tavern, 853
Dochy of Corawalloffice, 851
Penning, Eliza, case of, 853
Gosling's banking - hooae,
851
Hardham's 87-Snoir, 849
Hare-ooort, 850
Hoare's banking-hoose, 851
Hone, W., publisher, 858
Johnson, Dr., in Bolt-coort,
850
Mitre Tavern, 853
Posts, 849
Printing-offloes, <dd, 851
Bichardson*s Printing-oflloe,
849
Salisbory-coort and Ser-
jeant's Inn, 850 \ Doke's
Theatre, 849
Salmon's Waxwork, 850
Shire-lane, 353
Shop Signs, noted, 848
Steam-printingiCnidle of,851
Waithman, Alderman, 848,
849
Wine-offloe-coort, 850
Foo OF London:
Lines by Luttrel, 858
November Fog, 858
FORTiriCATIONS :
Brill, OUver's Moont, Par-
lismentary, Tyborn, and
Wardoor-street, 854
FooNDLiNO Hospital:
Chapel and Choir, 858
Charter to Coram, 854
Children, 856
Guillbrd-street, 854
Hatton-garden, 354
Hogarth's Pictores, 856
Pictores, Sxhbltion o^ 855
Statoe of Coram, 850
Tenterden, Lord, 855
Fountains :
Bagnigge Wells, 856
Bank of England, 80
Billingsgate, 359
Brixton, 858
Free Drinking, 856
GoildhaU, 859
Kensington, 856
Lincoln's-lnn, 856
MydddUm, 858
Parks, 858
8. James's-sqaare, 857
Soho,856
Somerset Hoose, 856
Temple, 856
Trafalgar-square, 357
Freemasons' Lodges ;
BoUdings by Freemasons,
860
Freemasons* Hall, 859
Masonic Hall, New, 860
Lodges, 860
Old Lodges, 859
Secrecy of; 860
Wren, Sir Christopher, 859
Friends' or Quakers' Meet-
ing-houses, 386
Starchamber prison, 844
Wardenship, or Seijeancy,
344
FRO0T8 AND Frost Fairs
ON THE Thames :
Blanket Fairs, 861>-868
Charles XL's reign, 861
FroetUtna, 368
Great Frosts, 861 :— Years,
1381, 1410, 1484, 1506,
1515, 1564, 1608, 1609,
1688, 1688, 1709, 1715,
1789, 1768, 1789, 1811,
1813-14.
Fdlwood's Bents :
Former state, 368
Gray's-Inn Walks, 864
Taverns, 868, 864
Ward,Ned,PDnch-hoose,364
^ Apollo, 868
Apothecaries' Companyt 869
Baldwin's, 865
Bays water, 867
Birds of London, 869
Botanic Gardens, 869
Botanic Society's, 869
Brompton-park, 861
Bockingham Palace, 367
Campden House, 368
Churchy ards planted, 369
City Hall, 366
Clerkenwell, 867
Finsbory-circas, 866
Fitsstephen's.time, 864
Flower-shows, 869
Gerarde's Herbal^ 365
Gray's-Inn, 866
Holbom, 865
Horticoltoral Society's, 870
Inns of Court, 865
Kensington Palace, 867
Kew, Royal, 870
Lambeth, 868
Leicester House, 365
Lincoln, Earl of, 865
Market-gardening, 868
Milton's, 867
Montsgue House, 865
Napoleon's Willow, 870
Open places, 364
Pindar, Sir Paul, 866
Squares, 868
Temple, Inner and Middle,
866
Tradesoant's, 868
Yaazball, 868
Gas-uohtino :
Chinese, 871
Coal Gas, 873
Early Experiments, 871
Gas ccmsumption, 878
Johnson, Dr., on, 371
Lights, various, 373
London Gas Company, 873
Murdoch and Win8or,871
8x2
852
INDEX.
FaUMiai,S7S
St. Jams's Plvk, S7S
Thettnt, ITS
S71
W
S7S:
Frinnen, difdagnidied, 878
Gboloct of Lohdoh :
£oeeBe,S78
London Baain, 878
London CUy, 374
LyeU, MantelUf 7lne,OweB,
lYntwich, 878.874
Tlmnct MmdR, 878
& GsoBos*8 Fields:
Brajley'B aoooont, 876
Maitbuid's seooant, 876
Bonan rondi, 875
Blots, Gofdon fc wnkM, 877
B. GlLXS'S :
Ballad-aingfBg, 878
Dyott-ttreet, 878
Gftllow*. 877
Health of; 879
Hogarth*! Pietant, 877
Horae-ahoea, lock at, 878
Hospital Ibr Lcpera, 876
Inns, large old, 976
Irish In, 878
Lodfing-hooses, 879
Maps o^ 879
M onmooth strsclt 878
Ponnd, 876
Bookery. 876, 879
Bomd-boQse, 877
Seven Dials, 877, 879
Smith, Albert, describes, 878
lybnrn cart, 879
yil]age,876
^LTSPUK-mtEET :
Oook-lane Ghost, 380
Great Fire k> Ple-eomer, 880
Goo AKD MaOOO:
Oorinaens and Gog-Bugof ,
860, 861
Costoines, 881
GifftmHek Hittorp, 881
Hone*s aoooont, 881
Mdsnmmer Pageants, 880
Bestoration, 860
GO0DlIAlf*S FiXLDB:
Abbey Farm, 881
Jews, 881
Bonuui Bemains, 881
Bosemary-lane, 881
Gbkek Churches:
London Wall, 987
Bossian Embasqr, 887
Gbbt Fsiabs:
Convent, 883
Chapel snd Choreh, 868
ChriefS Hospital, 86S
FoDndresses and meaas^ 888
Friars Minors, 861
London Bnaset, 868
Mbonments, 868
868 I
Gbet FmiAEB eantinmd.
Sanetnary, 888
Wliittington<S libraiy, 889
Citj Chapel, 884
Jhrndad and Gmb-st, 864
Foxe, the martjrrologist, 868
Grab-street anthore, 884
Gnib-street Journal and
Society, 884
Hoole, Samnd, and Dr.
Johnson, 888
MUton-street, 888
Monk, General, 864
Pope and Grab-street, 884
Soapworke, Old City, 864
^peed, John, 888
l^-writers, 888
Wdby, the Hermit, 884
GnLDRALL:
Aldermen's Conrt, 891
Chamberlain*8 Office, 891
Chapel, andent, 890
Charies IL*s visits, 889
Coondl Chamber, 891
Courts of Common Piess and
Klng*s Bench, 893
Court of Bxcheqner, 891
Crypt, 800
JM, Saoond, and mrd; 886
Gaa-lightinf, 889
Gog and Magog, 388
Great Fire, 867
Hustings' Court, 890
Interior, 887
Library, 898
Lord Mayor's Dinner, 889
Kitchen built, 886
Monuments, 888, 889
Pepys at dinner, 890
Porch and SUtnes, 887
Portraits and other Flotnrss,
899
Boof, New, 887
Sovereigns feasted, 889
Trials, memorable. 887
Whittlngton and Henry Y.,
866
. Windows, painted, 888
HACKNET-COACHSS :
Bailey and Dunoombe, 393
Cabs, 898
DavenantV description, 898
Origha of Name, 888
Sight-seeing. 888
Stand, the flrst, 899
Hjlixs op the City Com-
PAjran:
Barges, 898
Charters, 898
Companies' Arms, 434
Compsnies* Charities, 438
CompsniesTnisteeshlps,438
Blsction Feaats and Gtiw
lands, 894, 898
Funerals, 894
GUd-hsUas of the Sazoas^
898
Liveries, 894
Loving Cap, 89«
Lonvre, or lanteni, 888
Offices, 898
Paintings, Tkpestry, ssd
Painted Windows, m
Plate, Corporatios. 884
Salt, above and below, S9<
Triumphs, or Pageants, 3H
Halls op the Comfassme,
TWBLTE GKEAT:
Oothworkera* : Baaqaetiag-
room described, 409 ; Gifb
distributed, 410 ; James L
aeloChwofflcer,40»;P\eprsi
Cup, 409; Belniilt Is^
409 ; Staireaae Hall, 409
Drapers*: Cromwell's Hoasc;
898 ; Feasts, 39»: Garda,
886,899; Greai Flie.3»S:
Livery, 899; Lord Mayors
day, 400; POrtraiii, 398,
899 ; SwitfalBVlnae HaU.
889
Fishmongers': Chnrfeer,492;
ChsndeBer, Silver, fOl;
Curiosities, 401 ; XKalBg-
hall, 4O0; Voggt^ the
actor. Coat and Badge.
400 ; FJshnKmgeta inear-
porated,401; Great Kie,
401; Lord Mayors, 400;
a Peter^ HospftaL 481 ;
Pictures, 401; Frariden-
tisl Chair, 401; Stock-
fishmongers, 401; ThM
Hall, 400 ; Trust Estatsi
and Charitiea, 401 ; Wal-
worth, Sir W^400 ; Waku
Prince of, admilted, 40i;
Wat Tyler alaln, 480;
Wine Shades, Old, 401
Goldsmiths* : Arehitoetare.
403 ; Assay, the, 401—4;
Banquetlng-hall, 403 ;
Bowes, Sir Martin, 408;
Busts and Portrsita, 403;
Hall-mark, 404; Intcricr
described, 403 ; Lord
Mayan. 408; Mydddtcn,
8irHng^403; Fageaati,
408; Plate, 408; Tfaild
Hall, 403
Grocen* : Bank of En^snd.
897; CnUer. Sir Joha,
897 ; Garden, 897 ; Lord
Mayors Feasts, 898 ; Pep-
perers, 897; Spoon cos-
tom, 898; Third HsIL,897
Haberdashers': ChuitiM,
407; Fire In 1864, 404;
Great Fire, 406 ; Huiren;
407 ; Fortraita, 406, 407
Ironmongers*: Almsboosei^
406 ; Charities, 408 ; Fta-
temity Feast, 408; Li-
terlor Fittings, 408; Oi-
trioh in P^Hseant, 498;
AJLLB-^€ontinued.
Hetnrefl, 408 ( Statue of
Beekfnrd, 408
Meroera* : Aoon, SlrThomM,
* Hoepitel, 396; Baeket,
Gilbert, Hooie of, 896;
earrings, 896} Cazton,
the printer, 896 ; Chapel,
896; Eleetlon Cop, 896;
Golden Lectareahlp» 896 ;
Hioka and Hieki's HaU,
896 ; Fietniee, 896
Kerehant Tailon* : Ban-
qnetlng-room screen and
mnaio fallery, 408 ; Bull,
Dr. John, 408 ; Freemen,
Distinguished, 406, 406;
Hawkwood, Sir John,406 ;
James I., Tislt of, 408;
Henrf VII., Master, 406 ;
OgUt^*fe YirgU, 406 ;
Fletnres, 406; PoUUeal
Feasts, 406; Speed and
Stow, 406
Baiters': Basts and Flo-
tores, 407 ; Foot Halls*
407; Game Fie (1894),
407 ; Meeting-hooae, 407 ;
Plate and Loring Cops^
407; Printed ^geant,
407
Bkinnen': QerkenweHPlayi,
404 ; Eleetlon of Offloers,
404 ; Jodd, Sir Andrew,
404; Kings and Queens
members, 404 ; Lord
Mayors, 404 ; Preoedenoe
qaestlon, 405; Skinners*
Goild, 404; Tnnbildge
Sebools, 404
Tlntners*: Ploard, Mayor,
entertained foor K^gs,
409; Pietares,408; Swans
on the Thames, 409; Three
Cranes, 409; Vintrx.the,
409
Hallb of THa MoroB Cirr
CoMPAirtBS:
Apotheearies* : Portraits,
410 ; Folminatlng Explo-
sion, 410
Amoorars' and Bnuders*:
Annoor, Korthoote*s Flo-
tore, and Plate, 410
Bakers*: Ptetores, 410
Barber-Surgeons* : Barbers
and Sorgeons, 411 ; Car-
toons, 411; Oarred ea-
nopf, 410; Cop, Loring,
412; Holbein's Charter-
pletore,4ll; Plate, 411;
Portraits, 411; Theatre
by Inigo Jones, 410
Blaeksmlths*. 413
Brewers* : Almshooses,
Owen*s ; Fine for selling
Old Ale; Pewter pots,
419
Brieklayers': Bricklayers
I
INDEX.
HAIX0— oonMiitfeei.
and Carpenters embroiled,
418 ; Corioos Customs,
419
Botohers*, 413
Carpenters* : Coort-rooms,
418; Crowns and Gar-
lands, 418 ; Frescoes dis-
oorered in the Great Hall,
418;FIetores,418; Plate
and eorioaities, 414
Cloekmakers' Company, 434
Coaohmakers' HaU: Indos-
trial Exhibitions; Politi-
eal Meetings, 414
Cooks* Company, 438
Coopers' HaU: State Lot-
teries drawn, 414
Cordwainers* : Charities,
Portraits, and FUte, 414
Carriers* : Canrings and
Paintings; GoUd. 1868;
oonTiTial costoms, 414
Cntlers*: Belle Sanyage-inn
beqocst, 414 ; Company'^
orest,415
Dyers* : Swans on the
Thames, and Swan-op-
pings, 416
EmbroidererB*, 418
Foonders* : Glass Cop» temp,
Henry YIIL, 416
Froiterers* Company, 438
Girdlers* HaU : Eleetlon
Ceremonies with caps and
crowns, 418
Innholders* HaU, 418
Joiners* : Canrings, Flo-
tores, Cedar Parloor, 418
Leathersellers' : Enriched
ceiling, screen, and scolp-
tored pomp, 416
Masons*, 416
Needlemakers' Company,
434
Painter Stalners* HaU : Cha-
rities, 417; S^temlty of
Artists; Camden Cop;
Catton, Master, 416 ; Flo-
tores, 417
Parish aerks*: Miracle
Plays; DIarif qf Henry
Madiitn; BUls of Mor-
tality. Portraits, and Pri-
vileges, 417
Pewteren*: Master's Por-
trait, Pewter Pots ; Foote
and Maoklin, 418
Pinmakera* : Pinners* Com-
pany; Pinners* HaU Meet-
ing-hoose, 418
Plasterers*: Corioos Silver
BcU and Cop, and Privi-
leges, 418
Plombers*, 418
Porters' : Tackle and Ticket
Porters, 418
Saddlers': Oldest dvicGofld;
newfifont; Saint Martlnlh
858
Halls— oofiMatfedL
le-Grand, Foneral Palls,
Sir Bichard Blackmore^
HoDnor*s Home, 419
Scriveners* : Marching
Watch, the; Milton and
Scriveners* Company;
Clayton, Sir Robert ; Jack
Ellis, the last money tcri-
vener, 420
Stationers* : Almanacks, the
430; Almanack-day, 431;
Bofgaveny Hoose, 430;
Carvings, by Gibbons,
431 ; Charities, 431 ; Copy-
right Act, 420; Lord
Mayor*s Show, 481 ;
Moore*s Almanack, 481s
Parkhorsfs Bibles, 490;
Portraits, 431 ; Begisters
of the Company, 430;
School-house, 431 ; Sta-
tioners* Baige, 431 ; Sot-
ton's Funeral, 433
Stocking-weavers': Lee and
the Stocking-loom Flo-
tore, 483
Tallow-chandlers*. 439
Watermen's: Fares rego-
lated, 433; PetiUon In
rhyme, 433 ; Taylor, the
Water-poet, 433
Wax-chandlers' : Charter.
Ulominated, 438
Weavers': First Charter of
the aty GoUds, 438
Halls, MncELLANKoos:
Agricoltural: Exhibitioaa,
Miscellaneoas,438; Smith-
field Clnb CatUe Show,
434
BakeweU, 438
Commerdal, 438
Flaxman HaU and Scolp-
tnrcs,438
Floral, Covent Garden, 434
HaU of Commerce: Bas-
reUef; by Watson, 436
Hicks's Hall: Sir Baptist
Hicks, 436; HudSbrOB,
436; Trials, 436
Hodson'k Bay Company*li,
436
8. James's : eharacteristio
decoration, 427; pobUe
dionen, 437
S. MarUn's, 437
Town Halls and Yestiy
Halls, 437
Union HaU, Soothwark,
487
Wesleyan Centenary HaU:
Wesley's PIctore ; Thank-
offerings, 437
Westminster GoUdhaU, 437
Hatmaekxt:
Baxter, Bichard. 438
CatUe-market, 1664, 43S
Coventry Act, 438
854
JLNVEX.
Hatmakket— contJnuAi
BjbmTTAiA— continued.
Houses of Old Loxdob —
Hajr iold here, iafq>, Ellu-
Lock, 488
eoHtbmed.
betli.428
London, 489
Long-lane, 484
HBTintrket llieatre, 428
8. Luke's, 489
Maiylebone, 448
Her UM^tf% Theatre, 4S8
Maiylebone and Paddlng-
Mllbora^ 448
PanUm, Col., 428
ton, 489
Hewcastle, 448
FlocadlUf HaU, 429
Middlesez, 489
<Hd City Workhouse 44S
8haTer*s HaU, 428, 429
Ophthalmic, 440
Post-oSce, T^mbard-at.,443
Tennis-eourt, 428
Orthopedic 440
Qneen-stn L..L-Fleld«. 44S
HOLBORH:
Preeidento of the aty Hos-
Behomberg, 449
ChattertOB, lodgiog of; 480
pitals, choice of; 486
Shaftesboty, 449
Bly-plaM, 480
Queen Charlotte's, 440
Sonthwark, 480
Fearon* Metna., 429
Royal Free, 440
Spanish Ambassadon', 4M
Flnt pared, 429
Boyal Maternity. 440
Staple Inn, 480
G«rarde*s Guden, 480
& Thomas's, Southwark,488
Star Chamber. 480
Holbom Charitj, 481
Small-pox and Vaccination,
aMaiyAxe,4S0
Hblbom Valley, ratsiog,
440
Strand, 480
429
UniTenity College 440
ItadescanfS, 480
Holbom Theatre, 481
Westminster, 440
Warwick, 481
Iii]ieofCoQrt,481
Hotels:
Weather-boarded, 451
Kidder, paetry-oook, 481
Agricultural, 443
WInohester-street» 481
Middle-row, 480
Charing Cross, 443
Old-bourne bridge, 429
City Terminus, 448
TNNS OP COURT AND
•L CHANCERY:
Skiimer-etreet, 429
Euston, 441
Soothampfton Hooee, 430
Great Northern, 441
Admission to the Inns. 471
" Up the Heavy Hill,*' 429
Great Western, 441
Arms, 471
Warwick Hoiue, 481
Grosvenor, 443
Apprentioes and SeifcaBt^
Whitehead, Paul, 481
Inns of Court, 449
460
Hou.Ain> House, Kem-
Langham, 448
Ascension-day eostora, 461
snroTOH;
London Bridge, 449
Calls to the Bar, 471
Addlaon, death of, 481
Palace. 441
Oostumeof Innsof Coortf480
Boats and Plotores, 483
Westminster Palace, 443
Expenses, 471
0debritte8 0f.488
HOUIfDSDXTCH :
Hall dinner, 471
Cope, Sir Walter, 481
Dogsditch, 448
Inns of Court and Trade
Duel, fatal, 488
Foundry, 448
Guads, 461
Falrfisx, Sir T., 481
Jews* Quarter, 444
Star Chamber Court. 460
Gardens, 482
Bag Fair, 444
Students, fsaip. Hen. YL,
Gilt-room, 483
Tench, the Joiner, 448
461
Holland, Baron, 483
Houses or Old Loitdoh:
BaniardlB Inn, 471
Hollsnd, flrrt Earl of, 481
Aldersgate-street, 444
Clement's Inn :
Library, 482
Aldgate, 444
Falstaifand Shallow, 4T8
Park, 488
Ashbumham, 444
& Clements Well, ITS
Thorpe, arohitect, 483
Bsgnio, 444
Sun-dial, 473
Warwick, Earl ot, 483
Bangor, 444
ailBird's Inn, 473
HORSEFERRT :
Baumes, 448
Members, eminent, 473
Flight of James n. and his
Brick, stone, and wood, 448
Dinner cusbxn, carious
Qaeen, 488
Brook's Menagerie, 448
473
Westminster and Lambeth,
Bulk shops, 445
Gray's Inn:
Ferry between, 488
Burnet's, Bishop, 448
Ajmorial windows, 469
Horse Guards :
Campden House, 446
Bacon, Frauds. 470
aock, 484
Canonbury, 446
Bacon, ShrKioholas, 470
Mounted Guards, 484
Carlisle, 446
BolUng,469
Origin of Horse Guards, 484
Caxton's, 446
Chapel, 469
Parade ground, 484
Coleheme, 448
Christmaslngs, Masises,
TUt^yard, Whitehall, 484
Crosby Hall, 297
and Revels, 469
Yardy, Kent, and Vanbrugh,
Druiy-lane, 446
Gardens, 866, 470
architects, 484
DyotfS, 446
Grey of WUton and Fcrfe-
HosprrALS:
Elizabethtn, 447
poole, 469
8. Bartholomew's, 86
Fowler's, 447
HaU built, 469
Bethlehem, 66
Fulwood^s Rents, 447
Libraries, 471
Charing Cross, 487
Grub-street, 447
Members, eminent, 470
Consumption, 486
Hale, 448
Montagu, Basil, 470
Dispensaries, 441
HoUand, 481
Osbom and Tonaon, book-
French Protestant, 486
Hoscton, 447
seUers, 470
8. George's, 487
Kensington, 447
Lincoln's Inn :
GHiy*s: statues and portrait
Kennington, 447
Books and MSS., 468
of, 487
TJndsey, Chelsea, 448
Chapel, 318
King's CoUege, 488
Llndsey, L.-Inn-FieUls, 448
Lesser, 488
Little Moorflelds, 448
and revels, 468
INDEX.
855
Imra or Coubt amd Chajt-
Curfew-bell, 469
Ersklne, Lord, statne, 467
Fresco, hj Wstta, 467
Gardeiu, 866, 466
CffttehoiiBe, 466
Hall, New, 466
Hftll, OM, 466
Hall roof, 467
Hogarth's Paul before
Felix, 467
Kitehen and cellan, 467
library. New, 466, 467
Members, eminent, 466
More, Sir Thomas, family
ot, 466
New-sqaare, 466
Oriel window, painted,468
Origin, 464
Portraits, 468
Screen, armorial, 466
8oresin,HaIl, andoostnmed
flgares,467
Btone-bnildings, 466
Son-disls, 466
Thnrloe State Papen, 466
Visits, royal, 466
Lyon's Inn :
Colce, Reader, 476
Weare and Thortell, 478
New Inn and Sir Thomas
Mora, 478
Snn-dial, large, 478
Seijeants* Inn :
Armorial windows, 474
Hall, 475
Portraits, flne, 474
Seijeantey, the, 474
History, of, 474
Staple Inn :
Hall and Portraits, 476
Jacobean arohitectare,476
Johnson, Dr., snd Seed,
Isaae, 476
fitrand, or Chester Iim, 476
Symond's Inn, 476
Thavie*s Inn, 476
Temple, Inner, 461
Gardens, view fh>m, 46t
HaU Dinner, 468
HaU and Pietores, 468
Hatton, Sir C 468
Johnson and Goldsmith,
461
Knights HospitaDera, 461
Lamb, Charles, 461
Masqaes and plays, 468
Pastimes and Revels, 460
Pillars at S. Panl*s, 460
Library, 461
Members, eminent, 468
Parliament chamber, 468
Wat Tyler's Rebellioo,
461
Temple, Middle s
Ashmole and Aubrey, 468
Calves* Heads, 468
Feasts, 468
IHKS OF Court ahd Chah-
CBRT — otmtinutd.
Fountain, 866, 464
Gatehouse, 468
Garden, 464
Hall, 468
Last Rerel, 468
Library, New, 468
Members, eminent, 464
Pictures and Busts, 468
Prince of Wales enrolled,
464
Reader, 468
Sun-dials, 464
Turkish Tombstone, 464
Ivirs or Old London :
Angel, Islington, 461
Angel, 8. Clement's, 461
Ape, London Wall, 461
Baptist's Head, 461
Bell, Carter-lane, 463
BeU, Warwick-lane, 468
Belle SauTage, 448
Black Bear and White
Bear, 466
Blossoms, 461
Bolt-in-Tun, 468
Bull. Bishopsgate, 468
Clerkenwell, 468
Coach and Horses, 468
Cock, TothiU-street, 468
Cross Keys, 468
Elephant and Castle, 468
Four Swans, 464
Geoige and Blue Boar, 464
George, Snow-hill, 464
Gerard's HaU, 464
Giles's, & 464
Green Man, 464
Holbom HllU 464
King's Arms, 464
Old Bell, 464
Oxford Arms, 464
Paul Pindar, 464
PioeadiUy Inns, 464
Pied BuU, 466
Pindar of Wakefleld, 466
Queen's Head, 466
Rose of Normandy, 466
Rose, Holbom HiU, 466
Baraoen's Head, Snow-hill
and Friday-street, 466
Spread Eagle, 468
Swan with Two Necks, 468
Three Cups, 468
White Hart, Bishop«gate,468
White Hart, Corent Garden,
460
Half-way House, 464
Southwark Inns :
Bear at Bridgelbot, 468
Boar's Head, 468
Catherine Wheel, 468
Dog and Bear, 468
Qfmgt, 467
King's Head, 468
Tabard, 466
White Hart, 467
White Lion, 468
Inks of Court and Chan-
cery— eoTtHnued,
White Hart, Welbeek-Bt.460
White Horse, Fetter lane,
886, 460
Yorkshire Stingo, 460
Isle of Dogs :
Cabitt Town, 477
Dockyards, 476
Dogs, tradition of; 476
Iron Suspension Bridges
and Cables, 476
Name, 476
Peninsula originally, 476
ISLINOTON I
Angel Inn, 478
Canonbury, 477
CatUe Market, 478
Cloodesley, Richard de, 478
Dairies, 477
Daniel, George, 477
EUsabethan houses, 476
Highbury, 477
HoUoway, 478
Inns, 477
Iseldon, a British name, 476
Ify Gardens, Hozton, 478
NewRiter,477
Peabody Bequest, 478
PerM>nsf«minent, 477
Population, 478
Regenfk Canal, 477
Sadler's Wells, 478
Smeaton's Observatory, 47
Spa Fields, 478
TaTcrns, old, 478
S
JAMES'S:
• Berry-street, Swift'sLodg-
Ings, 481
Court of S. James's, 480
S. James's Fields, 480
8. James's-street : Bagnio,
Byron, Lord, 481, 488 1
Betty*i Fruit-shop, 488 1
aril Scnrioe Club, 481;
Club-houses, 483 ; Claren-
don House, 481; Elms-
ley's, 480; Gibbon, Pope,
and Waller, 480 ; Glllrmy,
caricaturist, 481; Hook,
Theodore, Clereland-row,
488; Thatched House, 480;
Wirgman, Kantesiaa, 481|
Wren, SIrChristopher, 481
8. JamesVplace: Eminent
residents, 483; Rogers^
Pictures, Sculptures, fta,
488, Spencer House, 488
Jermyn-st.: eminent resi-
dents, 481 ; Howe, Mrs. t
Museum of Pnotkai
Geology, 481
Arundel Marbles, 478
GlOTer and Gilford, 478
Pictnres at Tart Hall, 480
Stationery Offlce, 480
Tart Hall, 478, 480
856
INDEX.
Jswi* Stnaooodss ;
Berit Umxka, 3S8
Doke't-plaee, 398
New, Great & HelenX SS8
New, V. Bryaxutoa-«tM 299
Wett London, Mugaret-
•treet, S2»
Jkws Ilf LOMOON:
Cemeteries, 488
Ootbes Exchange, 488
Corporation, 484
Jewries, 488
Jewa* Free Sehool, 481
Jewa*-n>w, 484
Jewry destroyed, 488
Maaaere, 488
Old Jewry, 488
Betom ftom ezfle, 488
Saturday, Hebrew, 484
Bazon period, 488
Synagogues, 484
Wealth of, 485
8. JoBif *a Gatb !
Aivhiteeture, 488
Care, Garrick, and Johnson,
485
Doewra, Grand Prior, 488
Hollar's prints, 485
Jemsalem Tarera, 488
8. John's Chnroh, 486
BJnighta of S. John, 485
No Man's Land, 485
Restored, 488
IpBNNINGTONi
J^ Early history, 486
Boohy of CorawaU Estate,
487
Kennington Common, 487
Uoensed Victaallers' School,
486
Manor of Lambeth, 487
Place of execution, 487
Boyal Palace, 486, 487
Whitefleld preaching, 487
Kbhsiiigton :
Campden Hill andCampden
House, 486
Colby and *^ffi»riiigton
Honses. 447
Gore House, 488
Horticultural Society, 489
International Exhibition
and Building, 469
King's Arms Tavern, 488
Mansions, 489
&. Mary's Church, 488
Newtoo, Sir Isaac, 488
Palace Gardens, 488
South, Sir James, Observa-
tory, 468
Soyer's Symposinm, 489
Wilberforce, William, 488
KXNT>8TBEET :
Bridge, ancient, 495
Broom-meu and Mumpers,
495
Cade and Wyat, 495
Kbivtish-towk :
Camden-town, 496
Cemetery, 89, 495
Chapel, 495
Fleet Biver, 496
Gospel Oak, 496
Somers-town, 496
Sycamore planted by Nel-
son, 495
KlLBUIUI:
Goldsmith's Cottage, 496
Priory, 496
WeUfl, 496
KXIGBTSBRIDOB :
Albert-gate, 491
BdgraTia, 499
Brompton :
Chinese CoUectlon, 491
Fox and Bull TaTem, 499
Inns and Taverns, 491
Jenny's Whim, 499
Lowndes-square, 499
Tattersall's, New, 491
Westbonme Bridge, 490
Brompton, Persons of note
rssidiDg at, 490
LAMBETH;
I AnUquity, 496
Arandel Marbles, 499
Asylum, 498
Boshell, Thomas, 499
Canute's Trench, 497
Carlisle House, 498
Chemical Works and Pot-
tery, 500
Clowes's Printing Works,
561
Coade's Artificial Stone, 501
Cuper's Gardens, 499
Bespard, Colonel, 499
Fair, ancient. 497
Gardens, Public, 498
Hock Tide, 497
5. John's Church, 498
Lambeth Marsh, 499
Lampreys and Salmon, 497
6. Mary's Church, 185, 497
Maudsley's Works, 500
Moore's Abnanatk^ 499
New Cut and Pedlar's Acre,
501
Norfolk House, 499
Pedlar and his Dog, 497
Plate Qtess, 500
Price's Candle Company, 500
Boman Bemains and Boad,
497
Shot Towers, 500
Theatres, 498
Yanxhall Gardens, 498
Waterworks, 499
Lambeth Palace:
Books and MSS., 504
Chapel and Oypt, 501, 509
Cranmer's additions, 501
Curiosities, 505
Fig-trees, Cardinal P61e*8,
505
GardMtt and Granada, ^D5
Gate-honae. 503
Guard-ctanmber, Ml
Hall, Grent, 504
Howley'a rqpaln, 504
Letters, eoDeotioBi ofC 5415
Librariea, 50S
LolUrds* f:risQm and Towo;
503
Pictures, 508
Boyal Gneets, 905
StiUionera* Companj and
Arofabisbop^ Barge, 505
Wat Tyler's BebelUosi, 501
Law Codbts:
Arches, S19
Central Criminal Oonrt. 506
Chancery, 507; Great S^
508 ; and Bag, 507
Qerkenwell SeaaioBs*
987
Doctors* CommoDa, Sll
Equity, 507
Exchequer, 509 ;
Seal, 509
Sherifls' Presentatioa, 5«$
Sheriflb' BoU, 508
Tallies, 509
Insolvent Debtors'
509
Lord Mayor's Conrt, 510
Marsha Isfia and
Court, 509
Old Bailey;
Press-yard, 507
SherilTs Dinner, 506
Trials, 507
Palace of Justice, New, 510
Bolls Court, 510
Sheriflk' Court, 510
Star Chamber, 450 — 510
Westminster Hall, old
Courts in, 505
LEADEVHAXL-R'BEET :
Corporation Granary, 511
Crypt of S. Michael's, 511
D«deoB family, 511
Hall far Arms, 511
Market, 511
Mottenx, Peter, 511
& Mary Axe, 511
LEICES1SB-9QC ABE :
Aylesbury House, 519
Burford's Panorama, 514
CranbonmeHdley, 514
Green>street : WooUett the
engraver, 514
Hogarth, WUUam,llT«!, 513
Hotels and F<n«ignen, 515
Hunter, John, lived, 514
Leicester-fields, 511
Lisle-street, 514
Leicester House, 511
Lelcester^plao^ 514
Llnwood, Miss, her Needle-
work, 519
S. Martin-street & Newton^
B0QB«,514
INDEX.
857
. LBICZCTER-IQUABE^-COnldL
Onnge-ooart : Opi« and
Holeraft, 014
Seynolda, Sir JoBhua, lived,
A18
BioU of 1780» 619
SftTile House, 513
SUtoe of Oeoif:e I., il9
Wyld*8 Earth HodeU «1S
LiTELfl:
Yariom, 616
Highest graond and mid-
dlegnmnd, 616
LiBBARIZS:
Agiiooltiiral Sodety, 616
Antiqnariei* Society. 616
ArehJeologiealSodetj, 616
Artillery Oronnd, 616
Aiiatie Society, 616
AftnmQmieal Society, 616*
Bank of Englaiid, 616
Barber-SnrgeoDs* HaU, 616
Beaamont Inititation, 616
Bible Sodety, 616
Botanical Society, 6I7
Biltiah Hnacnm, 684
Charter-hooMk 617
Chelsea Hospital, 617
Christ's Hospital, 617
Chmoh Missionary, 617
Cirenlatiiig, 627
City of London Institation,
617
QtU Eoglnoen* Institation,
617
Clocknakers' Canpany, 617
Clnb-liooseB, 617
College of Physldaas, 377
College of Surgeons, 617
Corporatkm of London,
618
Cottonian, 618
Department of Fraotleal
Art, 618
Bootora* Commons, SIS
Dnlwich College, 374
Doteh Charcb, 61 »
East India Compaoy, 630
Ellesmere, 630
Free libraries, 637
Geographical Sodety, 690
Heralds* College, 376
Hortienltnral Society, 631
Hospitals, 691
Incorporated Law Sodety,
631
Inns of Coort and Chaneery,
631
King's College, 631
Lambeth Falace, 601
T.ipiti— n Sodety, 631
Literary Fond, 631
lioodon Institation, 639
London Library, 639
liathematical Sodety, 699
Hebhanles* Inatitnte, 633
Medical and Cblrorgieal
Society, 633
Medieal Sodety, S60, 690
Libraries— eonfiiMied.
Merohant-TaUors* Schod,
630
Microscopical Sodety, 633
Mndie*sSdeot,637
Moseom of i^tical Geo-
logy. 633
New College, 377, 633
Parliament Houses, 666, 666
Patent%eal Office, 633
8.Panl'8 Cathedral, 111,628
8. Paul's Schools, 63S
Pharmaceutical Society, 638
Boyal Academy of Arts, 688
B^ral Academy of Music,
634
Boyal Institute of Aichi-
teots,634
Royal Institation, 634
Boyal Library, S. James*s
Palace. 634
Boyal Society, 634
Boyal Sodety of Literatore,
634
Bussell Institation, 694
Slon College, 279. 696
Soane*s, Sir John. 636
Societies, Literary and
Seientillc 636
Sodety of Arts, 686
Statistical Sodety, 636
Tenison's, Arohbi^hop, 696
Tower of London, 636
United Service Institution,
Whitehall, 636
UnlTcrdty Cdlege, 636
Williams's Library, 636
Zoological Sodety, 637
LDtooLKt Iirif Fields:
Duka-street: Silver Foun-
tain, magnificent, 638
Extent oC 637
Indoeed, 638
Law Courts, New, 639
lindsey House, 627
Mumpers and Rufflers, 628
Plaoe of Execution and Pil-
lory, 627, 628
Bussell, WilUam Lord. 637
Turnstile, Great and Little,
638
Whetstone's Park, 638
Ltterabt Fumd :
Grants, 639
First Dinner, 639
House, Adelphi Terrace^ 1
Instttuted. 639
Odes, authors of, 639
Little Britain :
Booksellers, 629, 680
Bretagne, Duke oU 639
Duke-street, 6S0
Milton lodged, 680
apeeUUKfr poblished, 680
LOMBARI>-tTRZET :
Abchuroh>lane, 681
Badge of the Lombards, 680
Banking-hooscs, 683
Barclay's banking-hoose,683
Birohin-lane, 681
Booksdlers, 681
Burse proposed, 681
Churches in, 683
George-yard. 681
Goldsmiths, 683
Gresham*s shop. 681
Isabella, queen of Edward
II.. house of. 680
Pope, Alexander, birth-
place of; 681
Pope's merchants. 681
Post-office, General, 689
Roman remains, 681
Shore, the goldnnith, 680
London Institution;
EstobUshed, 6S9
Laboratory, Lectars-room,
and Library, 688
London Walit— Cett :
Wall and Bethkm Hospital,
684
LoNo Acre :
Sutler and Corn, in Rose-
street. 686
Coachmakers, 686
Elms and Seven Acres, 684
Endell-street, and S. Mar-
tin's Schools, 686
Mag-house Qub, 686
Nostrums, sale of; 686
Prior's Chloe, 686
Rose-street and Dryden
cudgelled, 686
Taylor, the Water-poet, 684
Lord Mayor's State :
Banquets, InauguraUon,687
Bollen, Sir Geoffirey, 687
Custard at Feasts, 686
Collar. 686
Costume and Jewels, 686
Fool, 686
Household, 687
Jewels, 686
Lord Mayor's Day expenses,
687
Mace and Sword. 686
Peari Sword, 687
Plate, 687
Salary, 686
Seals, 686
Silver Cradle, 687
State Banquets, 686
Staff, 686
Watermen, 687
Whittington, 637
LUDOATX, LUDOATB HUA,
AND SimXETi
Barbican, or Watch Towery
689
Belle Sauvage Inn, 689
EUaOieth, Queen, Statue ^
fh>m the Gate, 688
Foster, Sir Stephen, 688
Lud-gate, 688
Newberry, bookseller, 689
8. Paul's and S. Martinli
Churches, 689
858
INDEX.
LODGATB, LODOAIS HiLI.,
AHO Sts£BT — amtinmed.
Priaoa of Lndgate. 588
Prison T%(mglU$y 688
BaUwBj Tiadoct, 689
Kondea and Bridge's diom
888
Wfftt, Sir T^ relMDioii, 689
MAGDiJiEN HOSFITAL :
Benefiuton, 640
Dodd, Dr., chaplatn, 640
Hootdiold, 641
Wagdalena, their dreM and
work, 640
ILunioir House :
Areiilteotiire, 640
£g]rptiaaHaU,641
Kitchen, 641
Yenetiaii and WUkei*i Tta-
loan,641
TaUei, 641
XAiraioifsi
Apdef Hoaae, 641
Bed-room and piriTafte-
room, 648
BaUet-proofbUnda, 641
China and Flafee, 643
Flotnrea and Senlptore,
641, 648
Site. 648
WelUngton Shield, 648
Argyll House t
Aberdeen Mhitetiy, 648
Indaatrial Sohool, 648
Bath House:
Ficturei. Senlpture, 644
Badlbrd, Duke of, Flctnres,
644
Bemal, Balph, Eaq., Works
of Art, Books, and Prints,
•44
Bridgewater House :
Plotnres, 646
Buckingham House, Pall
XsU: Ministers of War,
646
Barlington House :
Bnrlington, Lord, his ad-
ditions, 646
Carendish Family, 646
Gay, on, 646
Hogarth's oarieatnre, 646
Pope's Eulogy, 646
Unirersity of London, 64 7
Walpole, EUwaoe, on, 646
Gambridge House :
Duke of Cambridge and
Lord Palmerston, 647
Naral and Uilitary Clob-
hoase, 647
Chesterfield House :
Lord Chesterfield and
French Cookery, 647
Portraits, Busts, and
Bronzes, 647
darenoe house, 647
Clarendon House, Pioca-
diUy, 673
De Grey, Earl .-
Pletnres, 648
DeroDshlre Hoose :
Amateur peiforma]iee,648
Berkeley House, 648
Bibiiographical rarities,
648
JUbro di rerfta»648
Plotuies,648 ^
Bedeeorated, 648
Dorchester House t
Pletarea, 649
Dover House:
Lord Melbourne; Dnkeof
York, 649
Dudley House:
Pletnres, 649
Glouoester House:
Elgin MarUes, 649
Tqtestry Caipet. 649
Grosrenor House :
Pletnre Gallery and
Soreeiu 649
GrosTenor Gallery of Pie-
tores and Seulptore, 660
Haroourt House, 660
Hertford House:
Pictures, china, 1^, 660
Holdemesse House :
Pictures, Sculpture, 660
Hope House:
Antiques and Pictures,
Duchess-street CoUeotton,
661
Lansdowne House :
Pletnres and Sculpture,
661, 663
Lyndhnnt Lord :
Pictures by Copley, 663
Manchester House, 663
Marlborough House t
Architect, Wren, 563
Duke and Duchess of
Marlborough, 663
Hall and Paintings, 668
Princess Charlotte and
Prince Leopold, 663
Prince and Princess of
Wales, 668
Be^mibellished, 668
Stables, new, 668
Montague House, Blooms-
bory, 678, 674
Montague House, Whitehall,
658
Beboilt, 654
Montague House, Portman-
square, 654
Montague House, Sonth-
wark,664
Norfolk House :
Pictures and Coronation
Plate, 554
Normanton, Lord :
Pictures, 554
Northumberland House,
Northampton House,
and Snfiblk House, 665
Pletarea and
666
Orentone, Lord:
666
Peel, SIrSobert:
656
Rothschild, Baron, 56<
Bntland House. 666
Sibthorp, Colonel:
Collection of Plate, :
lain, Glaaa, A«.. ft««
Spencer House, &56
Staflbrd House — BniU te
the Dnke of York :
Pictures and Seolptare,
656, 667
Tomline, Mr. 6. : PfctURfl,
667
Uzbridge Honae : Tfae poet
Ga7, 667
Maueetb:
BUlingegate. 66, MT
Boioagh,659
Clare, 659
Colombia, 668
Com, Mark-lane, 899
Corent Garden, 559
Farringdoo, 659
Hnngerford, 659
LeadenhaU, 660
MelxopoUtan Cattle, 6«9
Newgate Market, 660
Newport, 661
Oxfbrd Market 661
Smithfield, 661
Stocks Market. 661
MABK-I.a]fS:
Blanch Appleton Manor-
honse, 663
Mabtih*8 (S.) Laxe :
NoUble Tenants, 663
Porridge Island, 663
Mabtht's (S.) Lb Gs asd :
College and Sanctuary, 663,
668
Crypt, 808
Inns, TaTems, Trades, 668
Boman remains, 668
Bowling-greens, 664
Extent and Manor, 568
Gardens, 664
Park and Regent's Park,66S
Prize-fighting, 564
Tybnm-road, 564
Mat fais;
a James's Fair, 564
Keith's Chapel, 566
Marriages, 566
MEW8,B0TAL:
Charing, 566
Original Mews, 666
Queen's Mews, Plmlieo, 566
Royal Mews, Pinner-st., 566
State Coach, 566, 566 '
MlMOBIES:
Gunsmiths, 666
Haydon-aqnare, 566
INDEX.
859
Holy Trinity, 666
Kana of S. Clare, 666
\BoTAi.:
CoriOtiUcs, 567
liOUy, the Alohanlst, 667
ICftebinery, steam, 566
Hint, Ibwer, 566
Old aod New MInte, 567, 568
PIz, 668
Bomui Mint, 566
Mbit, BouTHifABK :
Jueylom forDebton, 560
Mnnlages, illicit, 569
lOnten, ezodw of; 569
Foeti in the Mtiit, 569
Saxon and Norman Minte,
569
SaflMk Manor, 568
JtOHUMZlIT, THB :
GIblMr't ■eulptore, 570
Deacribed,570
I«e8endi,571
Model, 570
POpe*s oooplet, 571
Jioftl Sodety'S obaerr*-
tlona, 570
Sideidee flram, 571
Anheiy, 579
Bethlem HoKpiCal, 578
Booe Skater, 571
CalTet* Head Clab, 578
Canning, Elizabeth, 579
Odeman'itreet, 579
Common Hont, 579
Sfdyn and Pepye, 579
Lacldngton**, 578
Moor^iate^ 579
MOOOli, BUTlin :
Aatiqaitlee Department, 578
Aaqrilan Gallerie?, 581
BiUee and Pfaltcra, 587
Botankal or Banksian I>e>
partment, 578
British and Anglo-Boman
Remains, 579
British and Medtaral Boom,
588
BnoaeRoom, 589
Central Saloon, 576
Cost of Moseom buildings,
575
Early Christian Colleotloo,
588
Eastern Zoologloal Gallery,
576
Egyptian Gallery and
Booms, 581
Elgin Booms, 579
Bthnographieal Booma, 588
Exhibition Booms, plans ot,
577
Gates and Bailing, 575
Qfcoo-Boman Booms, 579
Hellenic Booms, 580
Libraries:
Boyal Library : Books
with Autographs* 584
MuBBUic, BBinsH— eontiiiiMa-
Gteneral Library, 564
Greyille Library, 584
Newspapers, 585
Ifammalla Salooo, 576
Manoserlpts;
Ancient Bolls and Char-
ters, 587
Magna Charta, 587
FOpe*s Bolls, 587
Donation M8S., 587
Medal Boom, 588
Mediaral CoUeotlon, 588
Mineral Collections, 578
Montague Great Gate,
578
Montague Hoose, 578
North Gallery (Fossils),
576-578
Northern Zoological Gal-
lery, 576
Origin of the Mnsenm, 574
Papyri, 588
Portraits in Eastern Zoo-
logical Gallery, 578
Print-room:
Drawings and Engrar-
ings, 588
Keepers of the Prints, 588
Portraits, 589
Admission and Catn-
lognes,589
Beading-room:
CoBstmotion and dimen-
sions, 685; admission
to. 687
SeDlptnre^ by Westmaoott,
575
Sloane and Harleian Col-
leotions, 574
Bmirke, Sir B., 574
Soathem Zoological Qal-
leiy, 576
Statncs of Shakspeare,
Banks, and Mrs. Damer,
575
Stones, immense, 574
Syrian Gallery, 579
Temple OoUectkw, 589
Townley CoUeetlon, 579
Yas»>rooms: Hamilton and
Portland Vases, 689
Zoologloal Collections, 575,
576
MOIBCIIS:
Adelaide Gallery, 589
Anatomical Masenma, 589
Antiqnaries, Society of
(Pictores), 589
AtttlqQities of London,590
Arehaological Association
and InsUtote, 590
Architects' InsUtnte, 590
Arehiteetiml, 591
Armooriea, 591
Aatograplu, 591
Botanical Society, 591
Brookes*« Mnsenm, 591
Bollock's Mnsenm, 890
MusBUiis— «on<lnti«d.
Civil Engineers* Institn^
tion. 699
College of Physicians, 599
College of Surgeons, 599
Corporation, 593
Cox*s Mnsenm, 694
Comlngisn Muwnm, 595
Daniel, George, Canon-
bnry, 596
Entomological Sooletyf
595
Ctoology, Practical, 595
Geological Society, 596
Geolagical (BowerbankW,
596
Gniana CoIleotioB, 598
Hospitals: Anatomical
Mnsenms, 596
Hndsonl Bay Oompany*li^
596
Hnnter*s (W.) Mosena,
597
India Mnsenm, 597
King's College, 597
Lererian Mnsenm, 619
MannflMtnres and Oroa-
mentnlAit, 598
Meadeli Dr., 598
Missionary, 599
Naval Mnsenm, 599
National Beposltory, 599
Pharmaoentioal Society,
599
Private Collcetions, 606
Backstrow^ Mnsenm, 599
Boyal Society, 600
Saltera, Don, 600
Sonll's CollecUoD, 600
Sloane Mnsenm, 601
Sonne Mnsenm, 601
Society of Arts, 608
Sooth Kensington Mn-
senm, 608
Tradesoant's, 604
Trinity House, 605
United Service lostitn-
tkm,605
University College, 606
Waterloo Mnsenm, 606
Weeks'^ Museum, 608
Zoological Sodetya, 608
MUII0HAIJ4:
A]hambra,608
Canterbury, 608
Evans's, 608
Grecian, 609
Hanover-square, 609
Highbury Bam, 608
Jamesli, S., 608
Ozlbrd,608
Philharmonic 608
SniToy Music Hall, 609
NBWINGTON BUTTS:
Butts fbr Anheiy, 614
Cnnt's Trench, 615
Origin of, 614
Walworth, Star W^ 614
860
INDEX.
Hsmiioioii, Stoke :
Aboej Pftrk, CIS
Biibop*s Flaoe, 615
King Henry*! Walk, 616
lV0wiiiiftoii«(n6ii( 616
Kotablc PenoDB, 616
Bond rUlagv, 615
KiwRnrBS:
CluklweU and Amwdl
Bprlngit 609
Hyddelton. Sir Hugh, 609
Jamei I. and Charles L, 619
Plpei.610
M/ddeltooi fkmily. 611
New RiTcr Shane, 619
BlTeroouM, 611
New Birer Head, 611
Sadler's Wells Theatre, 619
Statoe of Sir Hugh Myddd-
Um, 612
XTiwEoAO:
BubUhi, Kaiylebone, and
FttitonTlIle Roads. 616
Formatioii, 618
Harley-house, 618
Oppoeltioa to, 619
HSWGATE-SnUEBT :
Bas-relief, 614
Bath-street, 614
Klag Edward-street, 614
Pannyer-alley, 614
Warwick-lane, 614
NXWiPAPEBS :
British Mnseuni collectiflP,
666
Dates of eaily Newspapers,
616, 617
JUnutraUd London Neum^ 618
Morning ChrotrieU, 616
Morning Herald, 616
Morning Foot, 616
IfeiM qfthe PreaaU Week,M
Slmet, 616: Printing ma-
ohinery, 616, 617
Weekly newspapers, 617
OLD BAILET:
Bales, the penman ; Camden
bom, 619
Execntion, first, 618
Exeentions, Memorable, 619
Green Arbonr-oonrt, 619
Hogarth bom, 618, 619
Skinner-st. Exeontion, 619
Surgeons* Theatre, 618
Sydney House, 618
Ol«D Jewst:
Clayton, Sir Robert, 619
Jews and Synagogue, 619
liondon Institution, 6S0
Lord ICayor's Court, 690
Porson, Prof. 630
OLD'STRBET :
Picthatoh, 630
S. Leonardos, Shorediteh,690
Soman Road, 630
Vinegar Works, 630
Omvibus, The :
Barricade, 631
OioriBns, THE — conHnued.
First established. 620
Greenwich stages. 630
ShUlibeer, 630, 631
OxrOBD-STBEET :
S. Anne^ parish, 631
CameUbcd House, 638
Hanway-street, 633
Marylebone old chnrefa, 691
Newman-etreet and Bemers-
street,63S
New Oxford-street, 698
Nollekeiu*s Beot^eetionB,
639, 688
Pantheon, 639, 689, 640
PeBnant*s Recollections, 631
Portland-place^ notable resi-
dents, 639
Statoe: Dokeof Kent, 603
Stratlbrd-place, 629
Tybom-brook, 630
Tybnm andOxford-nMid,631
Wardour-street, 639
PADDINGTON':
Bishop's Estate, 694
Churches, 634
Craren HiU, 634
Dudley Grore and Welling-
ton Statue, 634
Forest of lliddleeex, 638
Maida Hill, 634
Paddington Green, 634
Ftiddington, Patt and IVe-
wtt^ 638
Population, 628
Public Houses, old, 696
Saxon name, 638
Tybnmia, 638, 634
Westboume Green, 624
Paihted Chaxbeb:
Conflerences and Courts, 636
Edward the Conflnsor, 636
Paintings and tapestry, 696
Palaces, Rotal :
Bncklogham Palace:
Arlington House, 696
Ball-room, 689
Buckingham House, 696
Blore, architect, 637
Cartoons of Raphael, 687
Chapel, 639
Costume Balls, 629
East Front, 637
George IIL Library, 697
Green Drawing-^oom, 628
Grand Staircase, 638
Marble Arch, 627
Marble Hall and Sculp-
ture Gallery, 627
Mulberry Garden, 626
Nash, architect, 627
Paintings. 627
Pavilion in Garden, 629
Picture Gallery, 628
Pictures, collection of, 628
Pleasure Grounds, 629
Queen's House, 627
Royal Mews, 665
PAiJkCEB, Bor
Senlptarea, 629
State Apartmenta. €33
Stothard, T., B.A^ 628
Throoe-fooni, 62S
Carlton H(
Arms and
Cariton, Lord, 6M
Cooaerratory, 68«
Epigrams, 686
Furaitoie, 686
Gardens, bj Kent. €34
Holland*^ alteratioiM, 684
Interior described, 686
Kenslngtoo Grav«l, 684
Marriages, royal, 686
Portico, 684
Regent's sapper to 9M6
guests, 686
Sheridan*s bon mat^ 636
Taken down, 686
Walee, Ptinoeas oC died,
684
Walpole, HonoQ, de-
scribes, 684
8. James's Palace:
Ambaasadon* Cont, 681
Board of Green doth. Ul
Chapel Royal, 140
Colour Court, 681
Court of S. James's, 681
Drawlng-rooma and Le-
T^632
Friary, 630
Gate-tower and Gtcst
Clock, 631
Gcntlemen-«t-Arms, 682
George IV. bom« 681
German Chapel, 680
Gaard-chamb»^, 681
Hospital, ancient, 638
Manor-bouse, 680
Monk, General, 680
Norman Remains, 680
Pictures, colleetMn of,632
Tapestry-roon, 632
Throne-room and Qgeen'k
Closet, 682
YeniOk the Palntar, 638
William, PrinceofOiraiige,
630
WlUiam lY. and the Great
Clock, 631
Yeomen of the Gvaid, 683
Kensington Palace:
Accession of Qneen Tie-
toria,688
Anne, Queen, and Ftiam
Creorge, 638
Banqueting Hooae, 493
Cube-room, 688
First CovmoU of Qaeca
yictorin,638
George II., death cC 633
Great Staircase, 633
Kent, Duke and DoBbes
of, 638
King-k Gallery, 688
INDEX,
861
SoTAX< — oomtinued,
JAbrury of the Duke of
Siusex, 634
Kottinsham, Fincb, Earl
OC 683
Palmoe Green, 684
p^reaenoe Chamber, 688
Qneen'8 Gallery, 688
Queen Victoria bom, 688
Snaaey, Duke oi; 688
'WnUam III. parehaMB the
Iffansion, 633
"Wren, Hawskmoor, and
Kent» archlteeti, 683,
6SS
Angerstein and Vemon, 680
Banks's scolptnre, 689
British Institation, 689
Charles ILand Paille-llaille,
686
Gbab-hoiiaes, 6^9
Coires-boiues and tsTemi,
687
De Foe and Gay deficribe,638
Denlson, W. J., M.P., 688
Dodsley. the bookseller, 688
I>iiel of Lord Byron and Mr,
Ohaworth, 687
IToatdls dlflcorered, 689
Qas lighting, 871
Qttlray, caricaturist, 686
Gtaham, Dr., his Goddess of
Health, 688
James I. and PaUe-Kalle,
686
living Skeleton, 687
l/0dge*s Portraits, 689
IftaU robbed in, 688
Karlborough House, 883
Hell Gwynne, lired, 687
PalUe-matlle, game of, 688
Pell Mell aose, 636
Pall-mall East:
CklTes* Head aab, 689
Hedge-lane, 689
**Booker7.*'the, 686
Bojral AMdemy, 688
Bohomberg Hoiise,449,688
Sedans and Chairmen, 689
Shakspeare GaUery, 689
Sights and Amusements,
687
Sydenham, I>n 686
llielwall, John, 689
Thynne, morder ot, 687
•*Tally's Head,** 686
Tolliamys, royal doek-
makers, 686
War-oAoe, Statae of Lord
Hsrbert, 689
Winriek Hoose and Prin-
osss Charlotte, 689
Wyat, Sir Thomas, 686
PAinrHIOll:
Basaar, 41, 640
Fire, dcstnietire, 640
Mssqaerade. 640
Fahtheon — continued.
Bebollt, 640
Theatre, 640
Winter Banelagh, 689
Wyatt, James,aTchiteot, 638
Fahcras, 8. :
Agar Town, 640
Battle Bridge and Boman
inscription, 641
Brill of Somers Town, 640
Cantelows or Kentish Town,
640
Cemetery, 641
Church, ancient, 640
Churches, various, 641
Domesday, 640
Extent, 640
Gospel Oak Field, 641
Hampstead Wells and
Walk, 641
Houses and Population, 640
King's Cross, 641
Mineral Springs, 641
Bailway Termini, 641
Paris Gabden :
Carets Almshouses, 643
Falcon Theatre, 643
HoUanS* Ltaguo"^ 643
Origin qU 641
Parks:
Number, cost, income, 643
Albert— Finsbury Park, 643
Battersea Park :
Earth Arom the London
Docks, 643
Lake, 648
Tjammss Lands, 643
Laying out, 648
Sab-Tropical Garden, 648
Chelsea Hospital Grounds:
Pensioners* allotments,
648
Green Park:
Constitution Hill, 648
Arch at Hyde-park Cor-
ner, 644
Lunatic attempts to assa-
sinate the Queen, 644
Mansions, Gardens, 648
Peace Commemoration,
•48
Peel, Sir B., death of; 644
Hyde Park:
Cheesecaksfl and milk, 644
Coaches and gallants, 645
Commonwealth troops,
648
Conduits and Fonntafais,
646
Cromwell driving, 646
Crystal Palace, 647
Deer, races, and tolls, 644
Drives and ilowers, 648
Duels fought in Hyde-
park, 649
Fairs and Fireworks, 648
Gates and Arches, 64»
GreatEzhibitlon 1851,646
Law of the Parka, 649
Parks — con^utd.
Let in Farms, 644
Manor of Hyde, 644
Memorial to the Prince
Consort, 647
BlDg and Beview, 645
Blot in 1866, 649
Botten Bow. 646
Boyal Humane Society^
House, 648
Serpentine, the, 648
Statue of Achilles. 646
Vending victuals, 645
S. James's Park :
After-dinner Promenade^
663
Birdcage Walk, 663
Canal Decoy, and Duck
Island, 653
Charles L, Cromwell, and
Whitelock, 651
Charles IL additions, 661
Charles II, and Nell
G Wynne, 653, 658
Evelyn, Pepys, and
Waller, 651
Goldsmith In Park, 658
Horse Guards Parade,654
Mall and the game of
PaUleMallle, 636,661
Milk Fair, 654
Milton's garden-house,654
Nursery for Deer, 651
Ornithological Society*^
House, 654
Peace CommemoratSoo,
1614, 653
Privileges, Skating, Phy-
sio Garden, and Me-
nagerie, 653
Bosamond's Pond, 658
SoDlt's Mortar, 654
Wellington Barracks, 658
State Paper Office, 654
Kennington Park :
Flower-gardens, Lodge,
649
Poplar Becreation Groonds,
649
Primrose HiU Paric :
Gymnasium, 650
Begent's Park:
Botanic Society's Garden,
869, 650
Ooloeseum, 380-383
S. Dunstan's Tilla and
clock-flgnres, 650
Flower-gardens, 650
Marylebone Farm and
Fields, 650
Observatory, 680
Plan. 650
Sheet of Water, 650
Tozopholite Society, 650
YlUas and Grounds, 651
Zoological Society's Gar-
den and Menagerie, 650
SOQthwark Park, 651
YloloriaParki
'\^
802
nwEX.
Driakiag Fountain, U6
Flower-beds, 66fi
OnuuMBUl Lake, 65ft
PlMmrM of the People,
6ft6
PBTohMo of Orooad, 6ftft
pAUJAioniT Houses :
Adnlflsion of the Pahlio, 666
Armada Tapestry, 666
Barry's design, 658
Central Clock-tower, 661
Central Hall:
Staines of Kings and
Qneens, 663
dock, the Great, 659
Clock Tower Dials, 668,659
Cloisters and Ciypt, 658
CoBunons* Honse, 665
Bar, the, 666
Coinmons' entrance, 661
Commons* Libraries,
Lobby, and Refresh-
ment Booms, 666
Commons, by Wren, 658
Division liDbUes, 666
Painted Windows, 665
Speaker^ Chair andMaoe,
666
Cotton House, 668
East, or BiTer Front, 659
Edward the Conftssor, 656
Sleotrie Telegraph-oilloe,
662
Gates of the Old Falaoe,
658, 663
General View, 661
Gibson^a Statne of Qneen
Victoria, 668
Gold-leaf decoration, 659
Great Fire in 1884, 656
CtatMmd-plan of the
Honses, 657
Law Cooits, by Soaae, 658
Iiords, Honse of, 668
Bar, 668
Basts andlJisoription8,668
Candelabra, lai^e, 664
Decoration of Peers and
Commons* Corridor, 665
Frescoes and Painted
Windows, 668
Heraldic Cdling, 668
Old House of Lords, 656
Peers* Libraries and Bob-
ing-room, 664
Peers* Lobby, 664
Peers* Bobing-ioom, 661
Prince of Wales and
Prince Consort*8 Chairs,
664
Qneen*8 Chair of State,664
Beporters' and Strangers'
Galleries, 663
Boyal Throne, 664
Memorial to Sir Charles
Bany, 662
New Palace, 669
Nomian Porch, 663
Pakuamemt BoDSES— <»n<eL
Korth Front, 659
Old Coort of Requesta. 656
Painted Chamber, 656
FisitttingB in St Stephen*8
Chapd, 668
Prince's Chamber, 656, 663
Queen's Bobing-room, 663
BiTcr-Wall, 658
Bnftis'ft Great Hall, 666
Soolptore, Victoria Tower,
661
Sooth Front — Saxon
Kings and Qneens, 660
Speaker's House, 666
Star-chamber, 656
Statnea in S. Stephen*s
Hall, 665
S. Stephen's Chapel, 656
S. Stephen's Ooisters, 665
S. Stephen's Hall, 662 , 665
& Stephen's Pondi, 661, 665
S. Stephen's Staircase, 661
Ventilation of the two
Houses, 665
Victoria or Boyal Galleiy,
663
Victoria Tower, View from,
660
West Front— Statoettes,66l
Westminster Palace first
named, 656
PATEUrOSTKB-BOW :
Amen-comer, Are Maria,
and Creed lanes, 667
Baldwin and Chambers, 667
Castle and Dolly's chop-
house, 668
Chapter CofTee-honse, 368,
668
QfdoptBdiat of Chambers
and Bees, 667
Hamilton and Co., 668
Longman's house, histoty oi,
667 ; rebuilt, 667
Mercors and Laoemen, 667
Kewgate Market groaning-
board, 668
Origin of name, 667
Panyer-alley, 668
Publishers, early, 667
Beligious Tract Society's
Depot, 668
RiTington's, BlUe and
Crown, 667
Bobln8on*B uiii Annual Re-
ffUUr, 667
Tarlton's Ordinary, 668
Warwick and Ivy-lanes,614,
668
WoodfUl and Junius's Let-
ten, €67
Pemtonville :
Gerard's Herbal, 668
Huntington the Preacher,
668
Penton's oiUe, 668
Piccadilly :
I Albany, 673
FiocAimx
Albemnrie-atrect and Qa-
rendon House, 671
Apeley Hooae, 541^43
Ariington aad Bcsaek>
streets, 673
Beekford, WIDiam, find,
670
street, 871
Bolton, CLuge*, sad Half-
moon streets, 671
Bond-street, 672
Bordett, Sir Franeia. 671
BurUngtosi-gardena, 67«
Cadogan, Earl ; coISectiaB of
Plate and Poraelaia, 679
ClarendoB Hotel, 67S, 673
Clarendoa House descnbed;
Fietnrea, 679
Cork-street, 678
Devonshire
by £. M? Ward, 671
Gloucester Hooae, 64t
Hamilton-place, 670
Hercules' FSllars, 670
Hope House, 56 1
Hyde Parte <
Gate, 678
S. James^ CSnixch altered,
674
& James's GaUery of Art,
674
NoDekens at Scbeensaken^i,
Vine-street, 674
Origin of PlceadiUy. 669
Ormond, Great Duke of: 673
Park-lane and Dnke of
WelBngtQn, 670
Peter Pfndar and Giilbrd^4
Peterborough. Eari of, €71
Plooadllly Ha]l,a]id Sfaaver^
Hall, 669
Pickering, pnbllaber, 674
Pope at school, 670
Portugal-street, 669
Queensbuxy, Duke oC 670
Banger's Lodge, Qnea.
Park, 670
Boyal Institatkm. 673
Stratton<«treet, the Dwdbess
of & Alban*8, aad Miss
Bordett Contts, 671
Swallow-street. 673
Tennis comts, 669
Van Nost's leaden Figore^
670
Uxbridge Honse. 67S
Wlllooghby de Eresby,
Lord, 670
Windmill-street, 669
Whistanley and Sir S. nor-
land, 670
Wright and Debrett. 674
Wyafk BebelUon, 669
PXCTDBE GaUXBIES :
Dulwich GaDety, 673
National GaUery :
Corinthian portico^ 674
INDEX.
863
FitCTUBS GALLEnns— oonML
Catalogne, 676
Origin o^ 675
Sohools, BngUah, Flemish,
Frenob, ItalUm, and
Spukish, 676
Sonlptnre in Hall, 674
Toner Flotores, three
itflCfl. 676
Tear's expenses, 676
Sheepshanks Flofeares, 677
HaUonal Portrait Szhibi-
tion, 678
National Portrait Gallerj,
678
Fieturs Ckdleottons, priTate,
679
Sc^al Aoadeoif :
Annnal Dinner, 677
Diploma Fiotores and
Senlptores, 676
Drawing Sohools, Hall of
Casts, Library, 676
Szhihitlon proceeds, 677
Fovndatlon Hembers, 676
Memorials and Flctnres,
677
Origin of; 676
Somerset House, 676
Stndents admitted, 677
Vernon GoUeetlons, 677
IRbACICT, THB ORSAT, 679 :
Cook Alehonse Token, 681
Defoe'fe Journal, 680
Grooer in Wood-street, 681
Importation of, 680
Peps and Evelfn, aoooimts
bf, 680
riper ai)d his Dog, 680
Plagoe of 160S, 681
«*Flagne Cross,** 681
BaTsges of, 680
Bemedies, 680
IlelgraTia,679
Chantrey, the aeolptor, 679
Dnehj of Cornwall oflloe,
679
EboTjr-street, 679
Flmlioo ale, 678
Fimlieo, Chelsea, tad its
taverns, 679
Pimlleo Garden, Bankalde,
678
Pimlioo Walk, Hozton, 678
pOUCB:
Central PoUoe, City, 681
aty FoUoe, 688
Dowling, Vincent, 681
Force, Salaries, and Rate,
689
Bone Patrol, 688
Metropolitan Police Act, 681
Original Police, 681
Peel, Sir Bobert, 689
Police Magistrates, 689
Bobberies on Thames, 688
System, 6*89, 688
Thames Police, 1^ 688
Popui^noif :
Censos of 1801—1861, 684
atj Chamberlain's Statis-
tics, 686
Ctfy, Night and Day, 684
Increase in the Soborbs, 686
Petty, Star W., his predUoUon,
684
Beign of Elizabetb, and be-
Ibre the Fire, 688
Begistrar-General's Beport
in 1866, 684
Betom in 1867, 684
TraiBo of London, 686
Various estimates, 684
POBT OP LOHDOM :
BUUngsgate, 64
Costom Boose, 306
Day's Business, 686
Docks, 809—819
Basterlings, the, 686
Exeoation Dock, 686
Extent of Port, 686
Fit»tephen*s aoeoont, 686
Geographical position, 686
Jews and Guilds, 686
Loss of lifb in the Pool, 666
Taoitus's account, 686
POBTUO AL-RBEBT :
College of Surgeons, 688
Dnkeli Theatre, 687
Grange, Carey-street, 688
Joe Miller's grave, 688
Stocks, last in London, 688
Tennis-court, 687
Will's Colfee-hoose, 688
PotT-omcB:
Chief Office, 8. Martln's-lo-
Grand, 688
Dead Letter Offloe, 690
FlTe loeaticos, 688
Foreign Mails, 689
Foreign posts, old, 688
Freeling, Sir Franda, 690
Great Clock, 688
Hill, Rowland, 690
Letters, number of^ 690
Matt-coaches and Railways,
689
Mechanical contriTances,688
Money Order Office, 691
Penny and Twopenny post,
690, 691
Po$t Magaxinef 689
Postage envelope, by Mul-
ready, 690
Postage-rates, 689
Postage Stamps of all n*-
tions, 690
RcTcnue, 690
Poui/nv:
Coneyhope-lane, 691
Dllly and Hood, publishen,
691
Dunton, the bookseller, 691
liSmb, Dr., the conjuror, 691
S. Mildred's Church, 691
Poultry Compter, 691
Tavenis and Tokens, 691
FBdoumeHill:
Chalk Farm, 692
Murder of Star Edmund
Berry Godfrey, 699
Primrose-hill Park, 660
View flnom Primroee-hill,693
Pbibonb :
Borough Compter, 698
Bridewell, 63—65
BiiztonHouse of Correction
—Treadmill, 698
City Prison, Holloway, 698
Oerkenwell Bridewell, 698
Clink, Bankride, 698
Cold-bath Fields Prlson,698
Committals in one year,
699
Fleet Prison, 844-846
Giltspni^«treet Compter,696
HbrsemoDger-lane Gaol,696
Lodgate Prison, 688, 696
Marshalsea Prison, 696
Mlllbank Prison, 697
Newgate, 697
Conetery, 699
Condemned Sermons, 698
Cool Tankard and Bartho-
lomew Fair, 699
Debtors' Door, 697
Hobhouse, Mr., and Lord
Byron, 699
Lanprisonments, Memor-
able, 698
Interior reconstmcted,699
Lord George Gordon, 698
Press-yard, 666
Bloto of 1780, 697
Statues in exterior, 697
Mew Prison, Qerkenwdl,
699
FntonrHle Prison, 699
Poultry Compter, 698
Onsen's Prison:
Cochrane, I«Qrd, Haydon
and Hone, 701, 709
Combe (Dr. Syntax), and
Palmer, the actor, 709,
708
Imprisonment for Debt,
708
King's Bench, 700
Miitff'B Bench OauUe, 708
Original Prison, 700
Poet in prison, 701
Prince of Wales and
Justice Gascoigne, 700
Prison closed, 708
<^Mea»*s Bench, 700
BwnartwMe Persons con-
fined here, 701
Riots of 1780, 700
Rules of the Bench, 709
Aetokes qf St. Qtorge$
Wat Tyler's attack, 700
Westbury, Lord Chan-
cellor, pr6e($ by, 703
Wilkes imprisoned, 700
SftToy Prison, 708
864
INDEX.
TothlU Fields Bridewell:
Colonel Deepard, 704
Tower, the, 704
Wcetmliifter Gfttefaonee, S78
WhltccnM-etreet Friaoii,704
Wood-etreet Compter, 704
AtTEENUlTUE:
W Broken Wharf, 705
Cornkithe^ 7 Off
Bin, Thonuw, drraalter, 706
Lord Meyort, 705
JNjM ReibM^ 705
Saxon hUhe, 705
8. Michaers eharoh Ta]ie,705
Bailwat Terxim X :
Blackwall, 705
Chaiini^ Croae, 709
Great Northern, 705
Great Weitem, 705
Hotela, 449, 448
London, Dorer, and Chat-
ham, 706
Metropolitan, 706
North London, 706
North Wcftem, 705 ; Arehl-
teetoral ST^^teway, 706 -,
Great Hall and Sculp-
tore, 706
Faxton, Sir Joaeph, hia
girdle raUw«]r, 707
Pneamatio, 706
South Bactem, 706
Sooth Western, 706
Undeisroimd, 706
PANELAGH:
•Uf Arae, Dr., moiioal oom-
poier, 707
Boildlngf taken down, 708
Bloomfield*! yidt, 708
Capon, the eoene-painter 707
Johnaon, Dr., 707
Ranelagh Hoose, 707, 708
Botnnda and PaTillon, 707
WalpoielB aoooont, 707
Beoords, Public :
Domesday Bo(^ 710
Lambarde, Keeper of the
Bolls, 708
New Beoord Bepoaitory. 708
Statue of Queen yietoria,709
Palgrare, Sir F., on, 708
Fhoto-slnoographlc flio-ai-
mlle, 710
Beoord Offloe, 706 \ Corioii-
tlei,710
BoUs Chapel, 700
Bomilly, Lord, Xasterof the
BoUs, his bust, 701
Searches, 709
Tlotmia Tower, 710
BsGEirr Street;
All Souls Church, 847
Argyll Booms, 33
Cheas Tournament, 711
Club Chambers. 345
808 I
BEQBirr Stbeet— coiiWmifltf.
County Fire OAoe, 710
Fauberfs Biding Academy,
711
Foley House, 711
Gallery of Illustration, 808
Junior United Serrlee Club,
364
Langham Hotel, 711
Ifaeadamlxed Boad, 710
Nash*s Quadrant and Co-
lonnades, 710
Parthenon Club, 364
Pdyteehnio Institution, 711
DiTing-bell, 711
& FhIUp*8 ChapeU 315
Shop*fronts embellished, 710
Tenison^s Chapel, 815
Bothbsbithe:
Fire, great, 718
Henry IT. lodged at, 718
Leake and Benbow, 718
lilly, dramatist, 718
St Mary's Church, Neckin-
ger, 187
Origin of; 718
Prinoe Le Boo, 718
BedriffB. 718
Saxon origin, 718
Swift's Captain QulllTer, 718
Tliames Tunnel, 718, 770
BOTAI. ACADEMT OF ABTi,719
BOTAL EZCHAHOX, 719
BOTAL iHSTlTinnON :
Banks, Carendiah, and Bom-
fbrd,719
Brande*i Chemical Be-
searahes, 719
Davy's DiscoTeries, 719
Faraday's Besearches, 719
Laboratory, 719
library, 464
Voltaic Battery, great, 719
Workshop of the Boyal So-
ciety, 719
BOTAi. SoaxTT:
Arundel House, 780
Burlington House, 730
Charter.book, 780, 731
CouTersazioni and Ptetl-
dents, 730
Cowley, Evelyn, APetty, 730
Crane-courthouse, 396, 730
Invisible or Philosophical
Society, 719
Medals, 730
Muaenm, 600
Newton, Sir Isaac, reUca ot
780, 731
Origin of, 719
Oxford meetings, 789
730
Portraits, 780
Boyal Charter, 730
Boyal Society Club, 866
Wearing the Hat, 730
Wood-etreet and Greeham
College, 730
71}
BOMAH LOKIMV :
Aldgate, 718
Augn8tA,711
Berls Marks, 71S
BUlingagate:
Bishopsgate, 7 IS
BlackiriaiB. 718
Broad-street, 71S
Fine Parement, 714
Cannon-ctreet, 714
Cheapside, 714
Cnitched FriMB. 714
Dowgate, 714
Foster-lane: altar, 714
Grey FriaiT, 714
Honndsditch. 714
S. GeocgeVln-^he-East, 714
laliugton, 715
King William and PHaee'i-
streeU, 715
Leadenhall-atreet : magnii-
eent pavement, 819
Lombard-street, 531, 715
Loadinium, 711
Lyn-dun, or IJUm^^Simmk, 711
London Stone, 553. 584
Lothbuiy, 715
Lower Thames-atreei. 717
Lttdgate: aepnlchral ssoaa-
ment, 539, 715
a Martin's-lane, 716
S. Martin's-laJGnnd, 716
Moorfields. 715
Pavements, vaitooa, 716
& Paneras. 641, 716
& PaolVehurchyaid, 716
Conyers and Wren, 716
Boman coins, 718
Boman houses, 712
Boman stratom, 71S
B4^yal Exchange. 326, 716
Bunlc stone, 717
Shadwell,716
Site of Boman Londca. 718
Smith, Mr. Bcaoh, his M«-
senm, 718
Sonthwark. 716
Strand: BomanBath, 716
Thames, Biver, 716
Threadneedle-^reet, 717
Tower of London, 717
Tower^hUl, 717
Upper Tbamiis stAM4, 717
WaU, 383—836
Walbrook, 717
Whitechapd, 717
SAVOY, The:
Chapel Boyal. 14t
Churches: Dutch, IVeach,
High Gennaa, and La-
theran,733
John of Gaunt and Chancer,
781
John, King of France, 781
Lancaster's palace, 781
Wat Tyler, burnt by. 733
French ProtestalitChurchei
{naUU 788
INDEX.
865
8<!vooL8, Public :
Charterhoiue, 86
Christ's Hospital, 95
City of London. 723
Corporation,C*rpenter, 7SS ;
Tonbiidge, 733; Dance
of Death, 738; Statae
of Carpenter, 738
Mercers', T2Z
Emiuent Scholars, 728
Merchant Taylors, 733
Eminent Scholars, 738
Fellowships and Playa.728
& Oiare*s and S. John's:
Seal, Sites, Hiiitory, 734
S. Pant's School :
£ininentPanline8,78i,785
8. Savionr's, 728
'Westminster :
Chisvrick House, at, 736
Census Alumnorum, 736
Dormitory, 736
Elizabeth, Queen, 726
Foundation, 738
Hall, 736
Masters and Scholars,
eminent, 736
Pancake custom, 376
S. Peter's College, 738
Plays, Latin, 736
Saxon remains, 736
Trial of the Pix (not^ 736
Sewage or Dbaihage ;
Constnietive deUlls, 737
First Commisbionen of
Sewers, 7:17
Fleet Sewers, 348, 737
High and Middle Lerels, 787
Interoepting Plan, 737
Main Drainage, new, 737
SBEBim :
Costumes, 729
Drinking to Sherillk, 799
Fnnd and Fines, 786, 789
Hebrew Sherifi, 789
Hoare, Sheriif, his Joanud,
789
Income and eoft, 788
London and Middlctez, 788
Michaelmat-day, 789
Letter, Sheriff Philllpaii, 997
Origin of the Oflloe, 798
Presentation of, 738
Slingsby Bethel, 789
State, Shrievalty, 738
SHOBEDITCn :
Almshouses and Halls, 780
Barawel!, George, and Mill-
wood, 780
Churohyard's ballad, 780
College Youths, 780
Curtain Theatre and Boad,
780
HolyweH-ln. and Mount, 780
Legend of Jane Shore, 789
8. Leonard's Church, 720
Lovel, Sir Thomas, 780
Nunnery, 780
Quiet Poor, 781
Shobeditoh — oonHnued.
Roman ▼lllage, 739
Soersditch, ancient ikmily,
739
SKnnrEB-ffTBEET ARD SNOW-
HHJC:
Alderman Skinner, 781
Bunyan, John, 781
Cashman, the Sailor, 781
Churches, 153, 781
Cook- lane Ghost, 789
Holbom VaUey, 781
Ladies* Charity-school, 781
Smithfibld :
Bartholomew Fair, 89, 781
Elms, executions at, 789
Jack Straw, 783
Jousts and Toanuunents,789
Martyrs and Burnings, 782
Ordeal Combats, 789
Poisonen, 789
PubUc Walk, Baoe-coune,
and Live Market, 731
Quintain, Sword, andBuck-
ler, 781
Biohard IL, Walworth, and
Wat Tyler, 781
SioTHnELD, East :
Cage, Stocks, Ac, 789
Charles I. hunting, 789
Vineyard, 783
SOCIETT OP AKTIQUABIES :
Admission ceremony, 788
Folkea, Martin, Ihrst Presi-
dent, 788
Obligation Book, 788
Paintings, Memorials, and
Publications, 788
Wanley, Humphrey, 788
SOdETT OP ABTS :
Art-Manufkctures, 784
Awards, early, 788
Barry'6 Paintings, 788
Fin»t Exhibition, 788
Firrt Meeting, 788
Goldsmith, Oliver, 788
Hope, Thomas, and Chaa-
trcy, the sculptor, 784
Library, 898
Museom, 608
Origin of, 788
Premiums and BouBtie8,784
Presidents, 788
Swiney Bequest, 784
SOHO:
Berwick-ttreet, 788
Carlisle House and ptreet,
784
ComptoB-atreet, 788
Dean-ctreet, 788
Gerard^street, 788
Greek and Church streets*
738
Lion Brewery, 784
Macclesfield- street, 788
Origin of Soho, 734
SOMEBSET HOUflE, OLD :
Chapel, by Inigo Jones, and
Capuchin Convent, 788
SoMKBBET Bona—contkmed,
Chapel goods, 788
Cowley and Waller, 786
Gardens in 1790, 786
Godfley, Sir Edmund Berry,
murdered, 786
John of Padua, architect.
788
Masquerades, Court, 786
Protector Somerset, 788
Queen HenrietU Maria, 788
Boyal Academy, 786
State Itanerals of Monk aqtf
Cromwell, 786
SOMEBSBT HonSE t
Architecture and Sculpture,
787
Bronae Group, by Bacon,
787
Chambers, Sir William, fls
chitect of, 786
Government Offlces, 787
Kinii:'s College, 787
Nelson, Lord, anecdote oC
788
Quadrangle, ofllces in, 787
Sculptors and Arohlteeta,
788
Site and extent, 786
Strand ftont, 787
Teiraoe, 787
Thames ftont, Cowley*ft lines
on, 787
Watch>ikee stay, 7S8
West Wing, 738
South-Sea House:
South-Sea Bubble, 788
South-Sea Company, 788
South-Sea Stock, 789
Swift and Pope, aatlzea oC
789
Tom of Ten Thoaeand, 789
SOUTBWABK :
Alleyn, Edward, 741
Allqm'B Almshdwsea, 741
ArtisU in glass, 789
Bankside, iU bear-gardeu^
stews, and theatrea, 741
Blackman-street, 749
Borough, the, 740
Bridge House and T«fd,
740
Burnt by WilBan L, 789
Deadman's-plaoe, 749
Elizabethan houses, 741
Etymologies, 97 in niiibsr,
789
Fair, 789
Falcon TBven, 741
Ferry and FOrtUloatloB, 789
Fort and Bulwarks, 740
Globe Theatre, site d, 741
Horselydown, 740
Inns and Taverns, 486, 740
Jack Cade and Wyat, 789,
740
Long Southwark, 740
Manors, 740
& Margarars Hill, 740
8x
866
INDEX.
& %wrf OT«ito And 8. 8a-
Tkmr*0 Ckvoh, 199^201,
740, 741
JlinUlbrGoteaffP. 740
Montague ciB»> and Hoiae,
741
Flcton •f HoradjdowB, tt
HatMd HovM, 740
BoehflHor Boom and Park,
749
Boman ranaliii, 799
Boy alley and Qloba-alkf,
741
Sbakipean lM0t,aeiilptor of,
741
BhakspeaR, Bdmimd, bo-
rt«L741
Soathwaric Afmi, 749
Subway In Soathwark, 749
Suffolk HooM and firan-
donac^plaoe, 741
Tokens, Southwark, 749
VTiaelieiter Falaee, 749
floorawAXX Fair;
Bvelyn and Pepji, 749
Grant by Edward VL, 749
Pmelalmed by tho Lord
Mayor, 74S
Sberiff Hoare'k aoconnt, 749
Siglito and Showi, 74S
Bethnai Qrecn, 749, 744
BoUagbroke, Lord, 745
Chrlftebimb, 157
Criapln-atreat Mathematical
Boeiety, 74A
Calpeppor. the hcrbaUat, 744
Ediet of Nantes, 744
Fair In Spltalflclde, 744
Lolesworth, a Boaan oema-
tery. 749
Fuptriim of tha waaTers,
744
Friory and Hospital of St
Maiy SpltUe. 749
PnlpIt Cross and Spittle
Sermons, 749
SUks and TelTeta, 744
SIsten of Charity, 745
Stone Cofllns fimnd, 749
WeaTers* houses, 749
WeaTers and Masten, 744
SpBIHO GABDKIf :
Barkery Uoose, 746
BowUng Green, Fountain,
and Ordinary, 745
CentliTre, Mrs., 740
MUton nstded, 740
Mew Spring Gardani, 745,
740
Ooter Spring Garden, and
Sir P. Warwick, 740
Bapert, Frinoe, death o<; 740
WIglsy's Booms, 740
Squares:
Bedlbffd,747
Lords Loaghboimm^ and
747
BelgraTCfCbester and Eaton,
797
Betkeley:
LanidowneHoose; Horaee
Walpole died, 747
Bloonutbory:
Bedford Hoasa; Lord
MansfleldH; Statae of
C. J. Fox, 747
Bridgewafer, 747
BnuBwick, Meoklenbuigh,
and Torrittgton, 748
Carendisb :
Grand Doke of Chandos ;
Haroourt Hoase$ Bronse
SUtaes, 740
Charterhouse, 748
Corent Garden, 992, 990
Devonshire, 740
Enston, 748
Finsbory, 749
Fitsroy, 749
Golden, 749
Gordon:
Fint looomotlTe, 749
Gongh:
Dr. Johnsonis hoose, 749
Grosrenor, 749
Hsnorer:
Stotne of Pitt, 750
Haydon, 749
S. James's :
Notable residents, 750
Leieester. 511-^15
Lincoln Vinn-Helds, 59 7^89
Lowndes, 750
Manchester, 751
Myddelton, 751
Portman:
Montague Hoose, 751
Frinoe*s (two), 761
Qnadiates or Squares, 747
Qneen, Bloomsbuy, 751
Queen, Wcstmlnstar, 751
Bed Lion:
Cromwell's remains, 751
Bossell:
Bedford Honaeand statae,
759
Salisboiy, 759
Soho:
Monmovth Hoose; Mrs.
Oomelys*, Sir Joseph
ford; Statae and Foun-
tain, 759
TsTistoek:
Frands Bally; weighing
the Earth, 759
TaTlstook-plaoe, 759
Trsfldgar:
Nelson odnmn; Statass
of George IV., Napier,
and Havekwk; Green-
land Whale, 759
Vincent, 759
WeUoloBe,759
Wobam, 754
State Coacbes:
Catton. painter, 750
Ghambcra, Sir W., 7M
Chsrlee L*s, 754
Cipriani, painter, 705
Coronation coach* 7M
Cost of the Qoacn^ Coach,
755
Dance, painter, 700
Hogarth's Qtij Ooadi, 700
Lord Mayor's, ooot o4 ?» ;
paintiag, 755
Qneen AnnCa, 754
Qneen Elisabeth's, 754
SpeakarX750;
paintings, 750
State Harness, 704
Thomhill, Sir Ji
painter, 754
Wilton, carrcr. 704
Statoeb:
See Lists with sites
names of scnlpion at ppt 757
— 760. The fbUowlBg are the
Achilles, Hyde Paris, 707
Charles I., Charing Ceosb:
Walpole^s aeooent: d'Ai^
chenhoU; P. Canning-
ham ; portlona stolen ;
pedestal \gf Marshall,
artistic merit of; 757
Coram, Capt., hgr Caldcr
MarshsU, 758
Franklin, Sir John, br
Noble :
Bas-reUdb; likeneBS,758
George IV., bj Ghantzcj,
758
Herbert, Lord, by Foley :
Baa-relieftonpedesta],750
HarekKk, Sir Hcaty. br
Behnes:
Inscriptions, 709
James II., by Gibbons:
Error respecting, 759
Myddelton, Sir Hagh. by
Thomas:
Costume of the period ;
drinking fbantains,
759
Nelson, Lord, by Bally :
Bronxe lions at base of
pedestal, by Laadsecr,
759
Blohard Coeor de lion, by
Maroohetti, 750
Wellington, Doke of, by
M. a and J. Wyatt:
Crigin and oost ; ralsiag-
700
Stbahd:
Aekermann, the prfntseDer;
Fountain Tarem, and
Bles*sDlTan,700
Adelphi, 1 ;
Dnrliam-plaea; ah* Wetter
Baleigh; OoattiraBaBk.
700
INDEX.
867
▲delphi Theatre, 769
Anderaon'B Soots PIUb,
764
Arundel HooBe :
Mtrbles, Statues, and pio-
tore galleries; Old Parr;
Hollar's Tiews. 764, 765
Amndel-street :
Ga7*8 THaia; Croim and
Anchor Tavern and
WhittlngtonClab; Aea-
demj of Ancient Mosio,
766
Beaufort-bandings :
Carlisle, Ikdibrd, Wor-
cester, and Beaufort
Hou8e,76S; Hill,Aaron,
bom ; Lillie, Perry, and
Rimmel, p«rfiimers« 768
Ben Jonson ; Nelson, 761
HoswpU- court and its cele-
brities, 767
Buckingham-street :
Pepjs and Peter the Great;
Ecty, the painter, 763
Butcher-row :
Count Beanmottt; Gun-
powder Plot ; Nat Lee ;
Alderman Pickett, 767
Canaletti's view. 760
Canary House, 768
Catherine-street :
New Exeter Change, and
Strand Music Hall, 768
Cecil-street:
Great Salisbury House,
768
Charing Cross Hospital, 486
Circulating Library.the first,
764
8. Clement's Danes, 760
8. Clement*s Testry Hall,
and Kent*s picture, 767
Craren-street :
Dr. Franklin and James
Smith, 761
Crockft>rd*s Bulk-shop, 766
Devi lie, the phrenologist,
and Nollekens, 76S»
Doily's Warehouse and
Wimbledon House, 768
Drury -court :
Shrievalty Tenurecustom,
and Clargcs, the farrier,
808, 768
Eleetricrime Signal Ba11,769
Kswx-street and Devereux-
coart and Outer Temple ;
Exeter, P«get, Norfolk,
Leioeitter, and Essex
House, Water-gate; Essex
Head Tavern, 766
Exeter ChsnKe, 836, 768
Exeter HatI, 384
Exeter-tfi reet :
Dr. Johnson ; his resi-
dences, 768
First paved, 760
ForegttU and ClementV
iane:
Sh- John Trevor, 767
Fountain-court :
Blake, the painter, 768
George's and Grecian Coflb^
houses, 364
Golden Cross Hotel, 769
Gothic Cross, by E. M.
Barry, A.B.A., 761
Hackney-ooach Stand, first,
and 8. Mary's Church, 768
Hermitage and Hospital at
Charing, 760
Holywell-street and **holy
spring;** old houses and
Signs ; Lyon's Inn, 767
Hungerford, 761
King's College Gateway, 376
Lowther Arcade, 80
Maiden-lane :
Marvel], Swift, and Vol-
taire s Turner, the
painter, bom; Cyder
Cellar and Fonon, 769
Mawe and Tennant, minera-
logists, 764
Maypole in the Strand, 768
Milford-lane:
Ford and Windmill ;
Baker, the chronicler;
WoodlkUs, printers, 766
New Court Chapel, 767
Norfolk-street :
Mountfort and Lord Mo-
han; Penn and Pet«r
the Great ; Ireland's
Shakspeare Forgeries;
Parr and Warton, 76
Northumberland House, 554
One Bell Stables and Dor-
chester coach, 767
Open fields, north, 760
Falsgraye-plaoe :
Heycock's Ordinary, 76
Queen's Head public-house
and Old Parr, 769
Salisbury-street:
Salisbury House; Hobbes,
Partridge, and Swift, 768
Savoy-steps ; Savoy-street,
143,738
Ship-yard :
Ashmole and Falthome;
Tokens, 766
Snow, the banker, lines by
Gay, 766
Somerset House, 786
Somerset-place, Savoy, and
Durham House, 760
Southampton-street :
Bedford HouM and bar-
gate, 769
Strand-lane, 764
Strand Tavern :
Deuham's frolic, 767
Strand Theatre and Bar-
ker's Panorama, 764
Strand— conMnuedL
Thames* bank Mansions, 760
Tonson, Millar, and Cadcll,
bookitellers, 764
Tark'sHeadCoffee-liouse,764
View in 1848, 760
Wellington-street, N. :
Lyceum Theatre, 768
White Swan Tavern :
Dr. Kin^'iAriqf Cookery t
Token, 768
Wych-street :
New Inn, 478
York Buildings:
Sea-water Baths, Water-
works, and Fire-engine,
768
York House and Sir Nicholas
Bacon and Lord Chancel-
lor Bacon, 761 ; pictures
and sculptures ; Villiers,
Duke of Buckingham i
Water-gate, 761, 769
TATTERSALL'S:
Derby winners, 770
EsUblished, 1766. 769
Horses and Hounds, 770
Horses sold, 770
Jockey aub, 770
New, 491
Prince of Wales, 770
TattersalU Kichard, 769
Telborafhs, Electbio:
Admhralty Semaphores, 771
Call-wire, Houses of Pailu-
ment, 771
Central Ofllce, Lothbury,770
Cook and WheaUtone's Pa-
tents, 770
Exchange News, 771
Greenwich Time, 771
Founders* Court, 770
■* Nerves of London," 771
Special Telegraphy, 771
Terminus Wires, 771
TBMPLE, IiriTER AMD MlD-
DLB, 461 — <64
Temple Bab:
CeremonyonRoyal Visits,? 78
Gates, 778
Heads and Llmbsof Traitors,
on, 778
Layer's Head, 773
Marriage, Royal, 778
Original Bar, 778
Statues — Cliarlctf Land II.,
James I. and Queen, Tti
Temple Bar, the CUy Goi-
gotha, 773
Wellington, Duke of; his
Funeral, 778
Wren's Bar, 778
Tbames Embakkmbiit:
Basalgette's plan, 778
CoBKtruction and details,774
' Metropolitan Board , of
Works, 778
Plan and Landing steps,? 74
868
INDEX.
THAMIS EXBAirKXEMT'eONf.
FImm by Wrfn, Tnrneli, and
Martin, 773
Boman and Britiah, 778
8««tiom (three), 774
Sewer and Sabwayn, 774
Temple Gardem and Blaek-
Man Bridge, 774
Weatminater Bridge and
Taoxhall, 774
Tbamei Riveb:
ArehM-hopa* bargea, 77ft
Admiralty and IMnlty
Honi*e, 777
AngUng at QaccnhHlia, 776
Barge of Biehard II., 775
Bridgea. 6ft— 7ft
Oonpanica' Bargea, 77ft
Oonaenrancy, 777
Ooari*e and Name, 774
Doeka, t09— ftl9
Poggct*8 Goat and Badge,
400, 77ft
Dolpiana and Whalea, 777
VlahenncB and Old Bwan,
776
FoUy on the Thamea. 77ft
TtwU and Froat Faira, 860
--868
Q«wer, the poet, 77B
Ida of Doga, 47ft
Iiampreya, Immenaa eatah
OC776
Landing-plaoea, old, 77ft
Like a Whale, 774
••Maria Wood ** barge, 776
Major aa Bailiff, 777
Mora, Sir Tn hia barge, 775
Ifelaon*a Fnneral, 776
Old London Bridge, 774
Fort of London, 68ft— 687
Bowing, boat-raetaig, and
yachting, 77ft
Salmon, great diughta of,
777
SaloMm tithi^ 776
Sporta and Pageanta, 775
State Bargee, 775
State Fonerala, 776
Steam STaiigaflon, 777
Swana kept, 776
Taykir, the Wator-poet. 775
Thamea Jet, by Motioe, 776
Thames wntermrn, 775
Tide, 774
Water Impure, and di^-
ffctont*, 777
Water Supply, 776
WaterworkaJiOndonBridge,
67
Whitebait, 67, 58
Wolaey*a barge, 775
TnAJiEa>aTBEET, Loweb :
BUlingagate, 54
Coal Exchange, 899
Cuatom Honae, 805, 806
Flah-atreet-hili and Monor
ment, 779
l9«Uay-<inay, 779
Thaxbs &nKET— oondsMadL
Petty Walet, 779
Pnddlng-lane and the Great
Fire, 779
TBAinn sntEBT. Uppbb :
AthelfUn*8 palace, 778
Bom. Whittlngton*B, 778
Castle Baynard Wharf, 778
aty Floor MiU, 778
Coldhaiboor and Sir J&bn.
Ponltney, 778
Dowgate; Sir Franda
Dnke*s mansion, 778
Harrey, Dr. William, 778
Merchant Taylora* School,
795
Old Signs, 779
Old Swan Hoose; Richard
Thornton, tha millionaire,
778
Old Swan Stairs, 778
Old Wine Shades, 778
Pnddle Dock, 777
Pieard In the Vintry, 779
Qncenhlthe, 704
Beetory Honae, MartinV
lane, 779
Steelyard, 778
Tbamzs Tuvvel ;
Branei's plan, 779
Completion — Bmnel
knighted, 780
Coat, Dimenalona, and Me-
dal, 780
Cylinder and Shield, 779
Early Attempt*, 779
Irmptiona of the rlrer, 779
Progress of, 779
Sttb«eripliona and Loan,
780
Thamea Tonnel lUr, 780
Tbeatbesi
AdelphI, 780
Aatleyli Amphitheatre :
Astley *8 nineteen theatrea,
780 ; Docrow, 781
Bankaide Theatres:
Globe licensed to Shak-
speare, 781 ; burnt and
rebuilt i idte, 781
Hope and Rose, 761
Pari9 Garden Circus, 781
Rose and Globe alley8,781
Swan, 781
BlackfHara:
Burbage, Shakspeare, and
Alleyn, 781
Britannia, and the Rose-
mary Branch, 781
Bmnswickand Royalty, 781
City of London, 782
City, Milton-street, 782
Cockpit or PhoBulx, 789
Corent Garden (three
theatres), 789
Curtain Theatre, Holywell,
788
Drury-lane (three theatres),
783
Dorpet Gardens, LMy Da-
Tenantl^ 784
Duke's TbeatVB, 687. 784
Efllnghnm Theatre, 784
Fortune — Hcnalowe and
AOeynX 784
Garriek, Goodman*a FlsMi,
784
Gibbon*^ Goort, ftM
Goodman's Fields, 784
Grecian, Qty-road, 784
Haymarket Theatre :
** Little Thentre :" rehcilt
by Nnah; Btgsar't
Opera, FleldiBpc, Foots,
and the Col mans ;
Webster and Back-
stone, 764, 78ft
Holbom Amphitbentic, 785
Holbam Theatre, 78ft
S. James^ Theatre, 78ft
Lyceum and KnglHh Qpera-
hoose. 785
Marionette, 78ft
Marylebone, 785
Newington Butts, TSft
Namery in Golding lane and
Hatton Garden, 786
Olympic Theatre :
Astley, Elllaton.aiidTea-
tris.786
Opera Houses, Italian:
Her Majesty's, 788
Royal JtaUan, 789
Theatres. I^wadoii
789
Pantheon, 6S9
Parllion, 786
Prlnceas', Chailes
786
Queents (Prinoe of Wales),
786
Queen's, Long Acre, 787
Red Bull, Qerkenwell. 787
Royalty, 787
Sadler*8 Wells, 787
Salisbury Court, 787
Sans Souci (two), 787
Standard, 787
Strand Theatre, 788
" The Theatre,- 788
Ylctoria (Cobnrg), 7S«
Whiteftiars, 788
Threadneedlb-ctkeet :
Crown Tavern, 789
Hall of Commerce, 769
Merchant Taylors' Hall, 789
Moon, Aldennan, 789
Kame, 789
Sidney, Sir W., 789
Sooth Sea House, 788
Tokens :
British Moaenm, 790
Charles II., reign, 790
Elizabethan, 7S9
London Traders'and 1Yadoi>
mens* Token, 790
Tokenhonse yard, 790
DWEX.
869
TKHH AM -COUBT-ROAD :
drnm and Ere, 790
upper** Farm, 790
:«niiloii of WlUlam de
Tofcnhall, 790
Id Coort-bouse, 790
riifteaeld*8 Chapel, 790
TKR Hix<i.:
zar'0 Head, and Peter the
Great, 791
bceeution, place of:
Notable renonsexeeoted,
791
'eltoii,the aM«MiB, 791
'oatem-row, 791
Lal«*lfrK. Lady, 791
icafrold<< forexeeotioDi, 790
"uwt-r Liberties* peramba-
lafion, 791
"ower Dock, 791
a^ER OP LoMDOif :
krea within the Wallt, 791
Idmiasion to Tiew, 800
inte-room :
Curioaitlet, andentgenu,
fte., SOS, 804
(Lrmouiipa:
Hor:«e AnnoQiy, 809
Queen E]izabeth*k, 809
Baaoohamp or Cobham
Tower, and its memorials,
795, 790
Bloody Tower :
The two Frittcep, 798
Broad Aimw Tower :
liady Jane Grcjr, 797
Chapel of 8. John, 799
Chapel of a Peter, 198
Charles of Qrieans :
Oldest Tiew of the Tower,
800
Constable of the Tower :
Lleatenant, I>epat7 Llea-
t«ntnt, and Tower
MiOor, 600
Coronation Plate, &o., 808
Coronation processions, 793
Coundl-charober, and Ban-
qnetiog-room, 799
Courts of Jostiee held here,
798
Devfrenz Tower reboilt,
797
Domestic apartments taken
down, 79S, 794
Flint, Bowyer and Brick
Tower, 797
Fortlfleatlons repalrsd, 794
Orsnd SUMthoose Ibr Arms,
794
Great Firs in 1548, 799
Grey, Lsdy Jane, and Prin-
csM EHsabeUi, 793
Hcary VIIL and his wives,
799
Inprisonmsnts, 800
Keep, or White Tower, 799
lioa Tower and M saanrte,
794
TOWBS or LOVDOM — OON-
Hnued.
•* Little Ease** tortore cham-
ber, 798
Locking np the Tower, 800
Martin Tower:
▲nne Boleyn's prison-
lodging, 797
Moat or Ditch, 794
Ordnance OfBce and Store-
hoases, 798
Place of exeoation. Tower-
green, 798
PortonlUs, genuine, 798
Prisoners* Fees, 800
Queen £llabeth*s Armonrj,
799
Ba]eigh*s imprisonments :
Bikory <^ iht World:
stlll-honset execation of
Baleigh, 796, 797
Beeeipts giren for Prisoners,
794
Keeord Tower, 797
Begalia or Crown Jewels :
Baptismal Font, 806
Jewel-house, New, 804
Prince of Wale8*s Crown,
805
Queen Conaort*s Crown,
805
Queen'k State Crown, 804
Quecn*s Diadem, 805
BegaMa, New, 804
Salt-cellar, gcdd, 805
Boman and Saxon fortresses,
799
Salt Tower :
Draper of Bristol, 797
Saluting Batterjr and
**Tower Guns," 795
Scales, Lord, besieged, 799
Sceptres, Swords, and Brace-
lets, 805
Sovereigns, their additions,
courts^ and imprison-
ments, 799, 798
State Prison Boom :
Lady Jane Grey, 796
Tower Palatine, 799
Towers, Tarious, 794
Traditional Origin, 791
Traitors* Gate, 794
Tiew in 1568, 798
Waterloo Barracks, 798
Wliite Tower, and its his-
tory, 799
Teoman Warden, 800
Towxn BoTAL:
Quc«n*s Wardrobe, 806
Boman Bemains, 806
Tbbasurt and othek Go*
yzRiTMKitT Offices:
Admiralty, 9
Cockpit, the, 807
Downlng-street :
NoUble residents, 807
Foreign Office, New. 807
Horse Guards, 484
Treasury and other Go-
TERHMEirT OFFICES — OOm-
Unued,
India Office, Colonisl Office,
and Navy Office, New, 807
Treaitury Offices :
Hsrley, Earl of Oxford*
assassinated, 807
Tennis-court, 807
Treasury relics, 807
Tri'ssury throne, 807
Wellesley, Sir Arthur, and
Lord Nelson, 807
Whitehall iVont, 806
York House, 806
Tririty House:
Bast» and Paintings, 808
Great Fire of 1666. 808
Human remains found, 809
Guild of Mariners, 808
LIghthouMS. Sea-marks, Pi-
lots, fcc, 808
Matter of Corporation, 808
Museum, 805
State Banquet, snnnal, 808
Trinity Monday procescion,
808
Ttburr ard ** Ttrurh
Tree,** 809
Elms, the, and tnt exeen-
tion, 808
Executions, Memorable, at
Tybnm, 810
Queen Henrietta Maria, 809
Sites of the gallows, 809
Tyboura and Westboom,
808
Tjrbum Ticket, 809
Tyburn Tun pike, sketched
by Capon, 810
UNIVEBSITY OF LON-
DON:
Bnrtington Gardens and
Somerset House, 810
VAUXHALL GARDENS:
Ame, Dr., musical com-
poser. 819
Artlfldal Ruins, 818
BsUoon Ascents, 814
Battle of Waterloo F8te, 818
BIsh, Gye, and Hughes, 818
Cheesecakes and Syllabubs,
819
Church and School, 815
Copped or Copt Hall, 811
Connplrators* Tanlt, 811
Evelyn and Pepys, 811,819
Fielding, Sir John, 818
Finally closed. 814
Fireworks, 814,815
Fnike de Breauttf and
Fsukeshall, 811
Gold Ticket, 819
Goldsmith*s Vsuxhall, 818
Guy Fawkes* Tradition, 8 1 1
Rogaith'ii paintings, 819
lA Sale Faakes, 811
870
INDEX.
Vauzrali.
MoriMid. 81r Saibii«U 811
Music eompoied for, 814
Hew Spring Qtrdeiu Uid
oat, 811
Orehatra, Gothle, 814
Plan of the Gftrdene, 814
JN4oMoa2>VMOO, 81S
Boman fori and pottery, 812
Sale of Pteturee by Hof arth
and Hayman, 814
Haqni on tlie Hope, 814
Singer!*, eariy, 81 S
Sutues of Handel and
Milton, by BonblUao, 813
Tom Brown and Wyoherley,
819
Tycn** leaae, 81)
Ylew in 17A1, 818
Walpolf and Fleldlng.81t
WALBROOK:
Bothaw, or Boat-haw,
8U
Conne of the etream, 818
* Old Barge,** 816
Soman remains, 818
& Stephen*! Church, 904
Wappiro :
Ames and Day, 818
Execution Dock, 818
Great Fires, 816
Jeffreys, Lord Chanodlor,
detected, 818
Origin of Wtpping. 816
Rmdcll(R», Sir Hugh VTU-
loughby. 816
Stag-hunt, 816
Tareras, old, 818
Watltno-stbeet :
firiiish joad and remains,
8:t,817
ConrMi of, 817
■ Etymons of the name, 817
London Stone, 638, 684
Boman Grand Way, 816
Sonth-Easteni Railway Sta-
tion, 818
Stakeley and Wren, 817
WatliDg-street Thistle, 816
Wax-wokk Shows :
Collections, yarious, 819
Salmon, Mrs., 860
Tussmud Collection:
Madame Tusaand, sketch
of, 819
Chamber of Horrors, 830
Georj^e IV.'s Coronation
Robes, 810
Hall of Kings, 819
Modelling in wax, co»-
tume, &r., 819
Nu)iolc'on Relics, 830
Rt'lics, Miscellaneous, 820
Royal and noble cele-
brliie«, 819
W«>tininhtc'r Abbey:
Snow in 1764,818
Wax-work Showb — canthtd.
Flay of theDeadyolk^818
Ragged Regiment, 818
Nollekens on, 819
Walpde describes, 818
WEaTMIMaTER :
Abingdon-sb-eet, 818
Almonry, 818
ArUller/.plaoe, 821
Barton and Cowley-ctreeti,
823
Broadway, Christchoreb,! 66
Canon-row :
Notable residents; Lady
Wheler and Chariea I^
892
Charles-street:
Ignatius Sancfao. 82S
Dean*s-yard :
Ashbnraham House, 444
Westminster MholarB,622
Domesday Book, 891
Duke-street:
Jeflkeys, Lord, his man-
don; chapel; notable
resident^ 822
Edgar*s Charter, 820
Elizabethan, 821
Fitzstephen*s, 821
Fludyer-street :
Axe-yard and Pepys, 828
CtardenerVlane :
Hollar, the engraver, 828
Geological note, 831
Great George-street :
Storey*s Gate; Reform
Club; Sir Matthew
Wood, 828
Heraldic Signs, 821
Horseferry, 488
James-street, 479, 828
King-street :
Cromweirs house; nota-
ble residents; Spenser
died, 828, 834
Manchester^buildings, 823
Millbank^street:
Feterborough House, 834
Penitentiary, 697
Ori^n of name, 820
Pal'ice-yard, Old and Kew
Clock-tower ; Conduit
Executions, Pillory
Stocka,and Whippings
St4irchamber buildings
Chaucer and Ben Jon
son ; Gunpowder* plot
Raleigirs execu^on
White Rose Taveni,824
Palmer's Village :
Maypole, 836
Park-street :
TawnleyCollectiun ; Cock-
pit, 836
Petty France :
Milton's House, 826
Prince's-street :
Broken Ctoba ; Stationery
Office, 826
Wfisranr]
Qneen-aqnare* 751
Roehester-mr. MS
S. Anne's-lane, 818
8. Margaret*!s Charck, S21
Sanctuary, Broad and
LiUle:
Churches; Knfioonl So-
detyls Sehooia ; Seckos
of Saactnary: Wc^
minsterHo^pttal ; Weit-
mlnsten (Old) M«b»-
rial, 836, 82S
Thomey UUiid, 890, 821
TotMU Fields :
Origin of Name ; Wagoi
of Battle ; ** Servft
Chimneys ;*" S. Ed-
wanTsFair; Bear<g>r-
den; Bridewell ;Dfi«b;
Scotch Fri«»era» t3«
Tothffl-etreeC :
Amory, Bettertan. and
Soutfaeme; Cock pBbhc-
house; OrcfannKsttcet,
826
Tufton-street, 898
Victoria-street :
Commenced 1846, tti
Churohea. 828, 827
Vineyard and Bowline-
green; Colonel Bkod,
827
Weatmiuster Abbcx:
Dean and Cbmpust, 627
Wood-street*.
Carter, the antiqttsrT :
North-street ; Blirtoa,
comedian, 827
Woolstaple :
Long Staple and S.
Stephen*8 ao8Fita],8i 1,
832
Westminster Haix :
Bill of Fare, Geofge FF/s
coronation, 881
Colours and Standards, 833
Coronation Feasts:
Bdward I^ Richard IL,
George IV., 880, 831
Cromwell inaugnrBted;
head set up, 830
Fire ta& 1630, 829
Floods of the Thames, 828
Galilee, 828
Great Fire of 1884, 832
Great and Little HalU
831
Hell, Purgatory, Farsdiae.
and Heaven, 830
Interior dimensions, 837
Kings held their courts, S3S
King's Champlonsbip. U9
Norman remains, 827
Oak, British, Roof. 828
Parliaments assembled. §39
Richard n. heigbtcaed,
827
INDEX,
871
ncnrnxB Ha£l — eon*i.
yten of £yll May-dajr, 830
of earrings, 827
of and Lantern, 827
iAu*8 HalU 827
ops In the Hall. 829
Stephen's Porch sad
Statues, 662, 828
i»l8. Memorable, 829
illiam of Wjrkebam, 827
[TECHAPEXi :
aude Dnyal and Defbe;
Inns and mUleried yards;
S. Mary's Churoh ; M«ar8*s
Boll-foundry { Prison ;
Tokens, 881, 882
rrEFRIARS :
ftrmelite Gonyent; Chap-
ter-house and Churdi ;
Hanging - sword - alley ;
rtombard-street ; San-
quhar, Lord; Selden in
Friary-hoose ; Theatre ;
882
ITEnALLz
;anqueting^hoiise rebuilt,
834
(owling-alley. Cockpit, and
Tennis-court, 883
;analetti*s Tieir, 835
;hapel Boys], 885
Charles I., plotares, 884
Hiarles II.,additiona by, 886
Cromwell at Whitehall, 886
&dwaidTL*sPftrllament»888
Whiteiiali^— «ofifi»M«ed.
Elizabeth's reereations, 834
Exchequer:
Trial of the Pyx, 836, 887
Execution ofCiiarles I., 884
Extent, 888, 887
Gardens and Dials :
Onnter and Hall's, 886
Great Fire, 886
Oimpoirder Plot, 884
Henry YIIL and Anne
Boleyn married, 888
Holbein's Gate, 888
James 11^ Statue of, 886
James II. at WUtehsll, 886
Jonei, Inifo, Palaoe de-
signed by, 884
Jones, Inigo, and Stone,
icnlptor, 887
Kary, Queen, coronation,884
Museum, Whitehall-yard:
Portland rase, 886
Orchard of Whitehall, 834
Palace, ConftMor's, rebuilt,
888
Palace-row !
Notable residents, 887
Pictures, 838
Priyy Garden, 886
Bemains of andent White-
hall, 836
Bichmond and Pembroke
House, 886
Scotland-yard:
Metropolitan Polios, 887
WHrrsHAU/— oofi^tittl.
Vertne's plan, 835
United Serrlce Institution
Museum, 886
Whicehsll Gardens. 887
Whitehall, name. 888
Wolsey's Statue, 888
Wyat's rebels, 834
WlHDOWS, PAWTBD and
Staihbd: St Paul's; Guild-
hall; Oxibrd-street, 887
YORK HOUSE. Isst of; 886
York-place, 888
ZOOLOGICAL SOCIETTS
GABDENS:
Admission of Member8,889
Animals, more remark-
able, 838
Fbunders, 888
Mensgerie in Begent^
Park, 888
Museum opened, 888
Sodety instituted, 887
Ylsitors, 889
Zoological Club, 889
Zoological Gardens, Surr^ : .
Cross* Mensgerie, 889
Gardens laid out, 889
Pictures and Models, and
Fireworks, 889
Surrey Mndc Hall, 889
St. Thomas's Hoqiltal,
temporary, 889
THE EN1X
xx)XDoir:
lAVnx, EDWAftf 8 AKD CO, PKiyTElid, CHAXDOS STItKBi;
VOVBNT GABimr.
^
VC 28494
C0313S2a33
i
-I— r
///Y'./V
THE UNIVERSITY OP CAUFORNU LIBRARY
Live Music
Archive
Librivox
Free Audio
Metropolitan Museum
Cleveland
Museum of Art
Internet
Arcade
Console Living Room
Open Library
American
Libraries
TV News
Understanding
9/11